/
Текст
TAUNTON’S
SPECIAL REPORT: WHAT DOES GREEN REALLY MEAN?
Fine Homebuilding
Saving energy
with replacement windows
5 roofs
that will last
a lifetime
Creating
a barrier-free
bathroom
Maximize
pantry
storage
Landscape
lighting
the right way
MASTER CARPENTER
Build a classic
cornice return
MARCH 2007 NO. 185
www.finehomebuilding.com
U.S. $7.99/ Canada $8.99
> C O N F I D E N T I A L <
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READER SERVICE NO. 179
Built to Perform
CONTENTS
Fine Homebuilding
®
F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H
2 0 0 7
N O .
1 8 5
FEATURES
50
A Sloping Floor for a Barrier-Free Bath
An old-fashioned mud job and a high-tech membrane team up
for a leakproof floor
TIPS & TECHNIQUES
28
BY TOM MEEHAN
56
Cordless Framing Nailers
Four brands, five reviewers, and 25,000 nails shed some light on
the pros and cons of unplugging from the air compressor
BY JOHN SPIER
UP FRONT
Contributors
8
Letters
20
60
Measure, insulate, and caulk. Do it right, and cut your
energy bill by 25%.
Cross Section
BY MIKE GUERTIN
PATH Concept Home, New
look for modular housing
28
SPECIAL REPORT
64
Tips & Techniques
BY SCOTT GIBSON
Tools & Materials
Small tablesaw, Sturdy work
light, Presoldered fittings
44
72
Maximize Pantry Storage
Replace shelves with shallow drawers, and you can stop diving
deep to find the soup
Breaktime
LANDSCAPE LIGHTING
What Does Green Really Mean?
Rising energy costs, climate change, and a new social
conscience are complicating the way we build
Adjustable sawhorses,
Emergency gutters
36
Installing Replacement
Windows
BY REX ALEXANDER
80
74
A Hillside Cabin’s Unlikely Addition
A three-story tower solves steep-site problems by bringing
the house to the cars
B Y PA R K E R P L AT T
80
Low-Voltage Landscape Lighting
All 12v lighting systems are safe, but quality components and
careful installation make the difference over the long haul
BY CLIFFORD A. POPEJOY
86
Curved Ceiling? No Problem.
Bend 1x4s between the walls to get an expensive look without
a lot of extra work
BY MICHAEL CHANDLER
88
5 Roofs That Will Last a Lifetime
These premium products offer time-tested longevity, so your choice
depends on price, appearance, and installation requirements
B Y H A R R I S O N M CC A M P B E L L
www.finehomebuilding.com
Cover photo by Daniel S. Morrison
6
COVER STORY
IN THE BACK
94
Finishing Touches
Manspace: A place to call your own
98
Questions & Answers
Paneled ceilings, Indoor humidity
levels
106
What’s the Difference?
Shakes vs. shingles
114
Building Skills
Trim the bottom of a door
120
Drawing Board
Reading and drawing construction
plans
128
Master Carpenter
Cornice returns for a gable end
138
GREEN BUILDING
64
Great Moments
Home Alone
ROOFING OPTIONS
88
56
CORDLESS
FRAMING
NAILERS
BARRIER-FREE BATH
50
contributors
Fine Homebuilding
tHe voices of experience
Editor kevin ireton
Executive Art Director robert Goodfellow
Special-Issues Editor charles Miller
Fine Homebuilding contributing editor Mike Guertin
(“Installing Replacement Windows,” pp. 60-63) works
hard and vacations hard, too. He recently traveled
just north of Tierra del Fuego in Patagonia. While trekking through the mountains and glaciers of Chile and
Argentina, Mike had time to check out some of the
construction sites that he passed along the way. “I
just wanted to see how they build homes at the tip of
South America,” he says.
PLATT
write an article
Fine Homebuilding
welcomes articles from
our readers. We’ll acknowledge all proposals
and return any we can’t
Harrison MccaMpbell
(“5 Roofs That Will Last a Lifetime,” pp. 88-93) has been
studying the effects of moisture
on buildings and doing forensic
work as a building-envelope
specialist for more than 30 years.
Harrison has worked across the
United States and as far afield
McCAMPBELL
as Damascus, Syria. His newly
remodeled home in Brentwood,
Tenn., also serves as a home office for his one-man
practice. Favorite activities include speedskating, golf,
and morning walks with his wife, Linda.
parker platt (“A Hillside Cabin’s Unlikely Addition,”
pp. 74-79) works in his hometown of Brevard, N.C.,
where he and his father, Al, are partners in Platt Architecture, PA. Their firm (www.plattarchitecture.com)
focuses primarily on residential design in the mountains
of western North Carolina. Parker was a member of
the team that designed the 2006 HGTV Dream Home.
toM MeeHan (“A Sloping Floor for a Barrier-Free
Bath,” pp. 50-55) got his start laying tile by helping
his father on weekends. Today, Tom and his wife, Lane,
operate Cape Cod Tileworks in Harwich, Mass., while
raising four sons and practicing karate in their spare
time. The Meehans cowrote Working with Tile (The
Taunton Press, 2005). Tom’s article “A New Way to Tile
a Big Floor” was the cover story in FHB #173.
use, and we’ll pay for any
articles we publish. For
details, call us or send
for our Author Guidelines brochure. Or check
our Web site at www.
finehomebuilding.com.
FINE HOMEBUILDING
clifford a. popejoy (“Installing Low-Voltage
Landscape Lighting,” pp. 80-85) is a licensed electrical contractor in Sacramento, Calif., and he frequently
leads a volunteer crew wiring houses for Habitat for
Humanity on weekends. When Cliff’s not working, he
often can be found hiking or scrambling in the Sierra
Nevadas or the Rocky Mountains.
Associate Editors
daniel s. Morrison, brian pontolilo
Assistant Editors
justin fink, chris ermides,
john ross, rob yagid
Senior Copy/Production Editor chris Hoelck
Copy/Production Editor julie risinit
Deputy Art Directors
dan thornton, Marne a. Mayer
Art Assistant krysta s. doerfler
Administrative Assistant Maureen friedman
Contributing Editors
scott Mcbride, rick arnold,
Mike Guertin, scott Gibson, Gary M. katz
Indexer Harriet Hodges
Publisher tim schreiner
Managing Editor, Web jean-paul vellotti
Assistant Editor, Web robin doyon-aitken
Administrative Assistant christina Glennon
Sr. Marketing Manager carolyn turoczi
Top photo: Courtesy of Mike Guertin; center photo: Linda McCampbell; bottom photo: courtesy of Platt Architecture.
GUERTIN
Executive Editor tim snyder
Senior Editor charles bickford
Editor, New Products jefferson kolle
Sr. Editor, New Products debra silber
Circulation Director dennis o’brien
Single Copy Sales Manager Mark stiekman
Advertising Sales Manager john dyckman
Corporate Accounts Manager judy caruso
National Account Managers
Wendy baxter, Michelle erca,
bill del tosta, jed tick
Associate Account Manager
chris dunham
Ad Sales Support Associate sharon Zagata
Executive Editor, Home building Books
steve culpepper
Fine Homebuilding (ISSN: 1096-360X) is published bimonthly,
with a special 7th issue in the spring and a special 8th issue
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printed in the usa
GRANITE COUNTERTOPS
Everything you need to purchase, select, install
and maintain prefab beautiful granite countertops!
HOW TO CONTACT US:
Fine Homebuilding
The Taunton Press, 63 S. Main St., P.O. Box 5506,
Newtown, CT 06470-5506
(203) 426-8171
FineHomebuilding.com
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Call:
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E-mail: fh@taunton.com
Kitchen Countertops
Bath Surrounds
Vanity Tops
Floors
30 Colors to choose from
Website offers interactive
page to match granite tops
to various cabinets
& Do it yourself from
$15.00 per sq. ft.
& FREE SHIPPING
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www.diygranite.com
Voice: 877-349-4726 (Toll Free)
READER SERVICE NO. 64
READER SERVICE NO. 5
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Copyright 2007 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction
without permission of The Taunton Press, Inc.
READER SERVICE NO. 152
february/march 2007
7
letters
reader feedback
in the spotlight
Independent publIshers sInce 1975
Don’t mess up a good thing
tAu n tOn , In c .
Founders, Paul and Jan Roman
Regarding your editor’s note in the last issue (FHB #184, p. 8), titled “The Future
of Magazines,” we subscribers value Fine Homebuilding for what it has become:
the best building magazine out there. My wife and I fight to see who can grab it
first from the mailbox. We just wish there were even more issues each year. While
change periodically occurs in everything, be careful. What you have is great. If
I want funny, I’ll read comics. What I want is content. Moving the “technical
t h e tAu n tO n p r e s s
President & Editor In Chief Suzanne Roman
Executive Vice President &
Chief Financial Officer Timothy Rahr
Executive Vice President &
Publisher, Magazine Group Jon Miller
Publisher, Book Group James Childs
information” to the Internet will not be helpful. I can see indexes and past articles
online with a good search tool for looking up things fast—now we have to go
through all the past issues, which we faithfully keep—but I will not spend time
reading online. I’m not about to have a computer in the bathroom, where Fine
Homebuilding often is taken for perusal.
Chief of Operations Thomas Luxeder
dIr e c tOr s
Creative & Editorial Director Susan Edelman
Human Resources Director Carol Marotti
Controller Wayne Reynolds
Advertising Director David Gray
Whatever you are thinking, please do not mess up a good thing.
— F R E D VA N M A G N E S S via email
Consumer Marketing Director Diana Allwein
Fulfillment Director Patricia Williamson
Financial Analysis Director Kathy Worth
“
Stop with the
eco-preaching
I love Fine Homebuilding, but
lately, there has been far too
much eco-preaching. It’s fine to
have articles on green building,
given that there are people out
there who want that. But spare
me the self-righteous hippie
crap, like Alex Wilson’s “Down
the drain” in the latest issue of
Spare me the
self-righteous hippie
crap.
”
Kitchens & Baths (FHB #183,
pp. 8, 10, 12), which would
have us believe that using water
is a sin.
Water is the most abundant
substance on earth, and it is
continuously recycled with no
help from man. The article
points out that “nobody is making any new water”; that’s
because nobody has to.
FINE HOMEBUILDING
The article says “water belongs
to all of us.” No, comrade. The
water you buy belongs to you.
The water I buy belongs to me.
And if I want to bathe daily
under a 100-gallon-per-minute
shower, that’s nobody’s business
but mine.
—Bill MuSE
Seattle
be responsible; go
sustainable all the way
I literally stood up and cheered
when I read the excellent essay
by Alex Wilson on multihead
spa showers that bypass federal
water-saving regulations in a
“textbook example of profligate
waste.” My enthusiasm turned
to dismay when I got to p. 72
and saw all the multihead
shower systems highlighted in
full-color glory, with 16 (count
them!) manufacturers prominently listed as sources for these
water-wasters.
Using both articles was
insulting to your readers and
T h E TAu n To n P R E S S
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Finance/Accounting: Finance: brett Manning, david
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A must read before
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One of the most important steps you can take before
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Operations: Joseph Morits, Roberta Calabrese, Sally
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Casey, Mark Coleman, Jennifer Wheeler Conlon, Trish Dardine,
Ruth Dobsevage, Lisa Durand, Erika Foreman, Geoff Krajeski,
Steve Lombardi, Victoria North.
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READER SERVICE NO. 119
Who’s Worried
about a
little Water?
Not MiraTEC® trim. Thanks to a unique
manufacturing process that treats natural
wood fibers with zinc borate and binds them
with phenolic resins, MiraTEC is remarkably
resistant to moisture, rot and termites. That’s
why it’s backed with an industry-best 30-year
warranty. MiraTEC looks and handles just
like wood, with the long-term performance
and durability of PVC and fiber cement. At a
fraction of their cost. So make the jump to
MiraTEC. The water’s fine.
Call your dealer or 1.800.255.0785 for
a FREE sample.
C u S TO M E R S E RV I C E
We are here to answer any questions you might have and
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READER SERVICE NO. 181
February/March 2007
CONTINUED
to both authors. It’s time for
your excellent magazine to join
the ranks of other responsible
publications: Start editing all
your content to reflect sustainable practices.
—GIANA CoCHRAN
Portland, ore.
acoustic clip
Better sound-control
products
Myron R. Ferguson’s article
“The Quest for a Quiet Room”
(FHB #184, pp. 55-59) is right
on the money as far as the
attention to detail that must be
taken to achieve high levels of
sound control. Our company,
Acoustiguard-Wilrep (www
.acoustiguard.com), has been
in business for 32 years, selling
sound-control products. We sell
a great deal of the mass-loaded
vinyl that Myron recommends,
but recently, we’ve discovered
two relatively new products
that far surpass it.
Acoustic clips (www.pac-intl
.com) are rubber and steel isolators that are screwed to studs or
joists and hold resilient channel.
Green Glue (www.greenglue
company.com) is a water-based
damping compound that comes
in a caulking tube and typically
is used between two layers
of drywall.
Both of these products far surpass the acoustic performance
of mass-loaded vinyl and are
less expensive.
—BILL WILKINSoN JR.
Mississuaga, ont.
Author Myron R. Ferguson
replies: The main point of my
article was to stress the importance of planning ahead and
paying attention to details.
There just wasn’t enough room
to include many more soundcontrol products.
I used some Green Glue the
other day and liked it. The
acoustic clips are also a good
idea because they offer further
isolation as well as eliminate the
chance of shorting out the steel
channel by accidentally putting
a screw through the drywall
and the resilient channel into
the framing.
ON THE ROAD
Fine Homebuilding
February 1, 15, March 1, 15, 29: Hear Fine Homebuilding editors Kevin Ireton
and Chuck Miller on The Faith Middleton Show at 3 p.m. ET on WNPR, 90.5 FM, in
southern New England, or online at www.wnpr.org.
February 7-10: Look for Fine Homebuilding editors at the International Builders’
Show in Orlando, Fla. If you’re in the area, please stop by booth W2787 to say hello.
For more information, go to www.buildershow.com.
February 10, March 17: Hear Fine Homebuilding editor Kevin Ireton interviewed
on The Money Pit radio show, with hosts Tom Kraeutler and Leslie Segrete. To find a
local affiliate or to listen online, visit their Web site at www.moneypit.com.
February 28-March 1: Assistant editor Justin Fink will be walking the aisles at
DeckExpo 2007 in Las Vegas. For more information, go to www.deckexpo.com.
cOntributing editOrs: Gary M. Katz regularly teaches workshops on finish carpentry at shows and events around the country. Visit his Web site (www.garymkatz.com)
to find out when he’ll be in your area. Rick Arnold conducts seminars on all aspects of
home building. Visit his Web site (www.buildingeventsolutions.com) to learn more.
10
FINE HOMEBUILDING
The cost of granite
countertops
Shame on you for misleading
the average consumer and possibly a portion of the professional
community. In your Kitchens &
Baths issue (FHB #183) on
p. 53, Rosemary McMonigal
states that the homeowners
saved $10,000 by choosing laminate countertops over granite.
As a natural-stone fabricator,
I am appalled by your willingness to publish what certainly
must be a fallacy. At an average
cost ranging between $65 and
$85 per sq. ft. for fabricated and
installed granite slab, the total
cost for what looks to be less
than 40 sq. ft. would be $2600 to
$3400—a far cry from $10,000.
And the cost of the laminate
countertop was not even figured into the savings equation.
I fully support exposing the
public to as many design alternatives as possible, but accurate
information must be supplied
so that consumers can make
intelligent choices and not
automatically reject materials
because of supposed exorbitantly high costs. Your article
hurts the stone industry, including fabricators like myself.
—DAN KoSKE
North Canton, ohio
Author Rosemary McMonigal
replies: You’re correct that
accurate cost information is
important, so let me clarify.
Near Minneapolis, many of the
granite selections fall in the $70to $80-per-sq.-ft. range, but rise
to $250 per sq. ft. for exotic and
nonstocked stone selections.
For this project, the countertop decision truly was impacted
by cost. The amount of countertop was actually 129 sq. ft. of
horizontal surface, not counting
any backsplash area. The countertops impacted were in the
Photo: Courtesy of Acoustiguard-Wilrep
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letters
CONTINUED
kitchen, the back entry, and the laundry
area; the client wanted continuity among
all of them.
Initially, we compared the actual laminate and granite selections: Laminate
was $20 per sq. ft. x 129 sq. ft. = $2580.
Granite was $105 per sq. ft. x 129 sq. ft. =
$13,545, plus edge finishing, putting the
difference at more than $10,000.
We did end up changing the island to
wood, which reduced our savings some.
Low-flow showerheads mean
longer showers
Where did the U.S. government come
up with the 2.5-gpm (gallon per minute)
showerhead flow rate (FHB #183, “Taking Issue,” pp. 8, 10, 12)? It certainly was
not from a poll of shower users because
anyone who has used a 2.5-gpm showerhead knows that it takes longer to
shower with the lower flow. Not living
in the United States, I am blessed with a
4.0-gpm showerhead. I have been testing
the average time it takes to shower in my
4.0-gpm shower (4.5 minutes) as opposed
to a 2.5-gpm shower (10 minutes). The
average time for my 2.5-gpm shower
tests comes from my stays in U.S. hotels
where, I assume, they comply with the
government flow rate.
I am an average-size person, and I
assume that I take an average shower. If
so, the government showerhead doesn’t
meet the “save water” objective. At the
very best, it is a wash, pun intended. So,
it’s just one more brain-dead government intrusion into people’s lives that
solves nothing.
—Ken Leader
Japan
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xxx/fmepsbeptupof/dpn0jotubmm
12
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Author Alex Wilson responds: Your assertion that using water-conserving showerheads results in longer showers is not
unusual, but it might not be correct. The
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
recently studied the impact of various
water-conservation retrofits on water
consumption, and they found that shower
length did not increase at all when
today’s standard 2.5-gpm showerheads
were replaced with 1.75-gpm models. In
fact, quite surprisingly, the 96 families
studied in Tampa, Fla., Seattle, and East
Bay, Calif., actually took, on average,
slightly shorter showers. Their 2005
report (Water and Energy Savings from
High Efficiency Fixtures and Appliances
in Single Family Homes) stated: “It has
been hypothesized that the introduction of low-flow showerheads and the
subsequent reduction in shower flow
rate could cause people to increase the
length of time spent in the shower. The
data from this study do not support that
hypothesis and, in fact, the showering
duration actually decreased…”
Now when we get into multiple-showerhead systems that are more about
recreation than bathing, it’s a fair bet that
shower duration increases significantly,
compounding the waste.
Do you really need a 400-amp
electrical service?
Reading Alex Wilson’s essay “Down the
drain” (FHB #183), I was reminded of
another area where a similarly wasteful mentality prevails. Homes today
often boast 400-amp electrical services,
multiple air-conditioning units, and
extravagant lighting schemes. For
years, the 200-amp electrical service was
deemed the norm in this country because
it provides for more than enough electrical capacity for just about any home.
Somehow, though, many builders and
demanding consumers have gotten away
from smart energy use, and instead, the
norm today seems to be the installation
of as many electricity-consuming devices
as possible. Little thought is given to the
increased electricity demand this causes,
and the resources needed to generate
electricity. In this era of limited
resources, it seems to me that we should
be getting smarter and finding ways to
use less instead of more. Sadly, this has
yet to happen.
—Tom Kadesch
damascus, md.
Shop vacuums: Smaller is better
I found your review of Ridgid’s small
41⁄2-gal. shop vacuum interesting (FHB
#184, p. 38). I came to the conclusion a
long time ago that unless you are suck-
Custom Southern Highlands
with an overgrout technique
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READER SERVICE NO. 192
letters
CONTINUED
your safety
Home building is inherently
dangerous. From accidents
with power tools to falls from
ladders, scaffolds, and roofs,
builders risk serious injury and
even death. We try to promote
safe work habits through our
articles. But what is safe for
one person under certain
circumstances may not be
safe for you under different
circumstances. So don’t try
anything you learn about here
(or elsewhere) unless you’re
certain that it is safe for you.
Please be careful.
—Kevin ireton
editor
ing up large amounts of water, a
large holding capacity is entirely
unnecessary because the filter
element plugs up long before
the tank is anywhere near full
and has to be blown clean. In
addition, the 17⁄8-in.-dia. hose is
an ideal compromise: not as stiff
and awkward as large 21⁄2-in.
hoses, but with far more airflow
capacity than 11⁄4-in. hoses.
There is one problem, however, with the unique hose
diameter. You need to buy special hose tools just for this
machine, and Ridgid does not
provide a 17⁄8-in. to 11⁄4-in.
adapter. This adapter is a must
because most portable power
tools (like sanders) have a 11⁄4-in.
vacuum port. I ended up fabricating my own adapter out of
fiberglass cloth and polyester
resin, but it took too much time.
One thing you didn’t say was
whether Ridgid’s Pro Pack has
a blower port. I use the blower
feature on my vacuum often
and won’t buy another shop vac
without one. It’s great for blowing water out of lines. I even use
it on my boat to blow water out
of the engine and freshwater
system when I winterize it.
— N i l s O m h O lt
sterling heights, mich.
Assistant editor Justin Fink
replies: Ridgid’s new Pro Pack
wet/dry vac does indeed have
a blower port, but I’m afraid I
wasn’t able to track down an
adapter for you.
Projects wanted for
upcoming book
Architect Duo Dickinson is
writing a new book for The
Taunton Press, tentatively titled
Saved By Design: Dr. Duo’s Cure
For the Common House, and he’s
looking for projects to feature.
He needs classic American
20th-century suburban homes
(Capes, center-hall colonials,
ranches, etc.) that have been
added on to or renovated to
respond better to their owners
and their sites.
If your project is finished
already, you must have excellent “before” photos. If you’ve
got a project that’s not yet
begun, we could arrange for
professional “before” photos.
However, such a project would
need to be completed and ready
for “after” photos no later than
August 1, 2007.
If you’ve got a remodel that
qualifies, contact Duo directly
at duo.dickinson@snet.net.
Cape Cod Air Grilles
Custom Grilles Our Specialty
ALL WOOD SPECIES
:GMBJN>PHH='
FH=>KGB=>:'
G>P EXCLUSIVELY ENGINEERED,
PRE-FINISHED RECLAIMED WOOD FLOORING.
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Buy Direct From manuFacturer
Call for a free brochure
Phone: 1.800.547.2705 • Fax: 1.508.394.7330
Visit us on the web: www.ccairgrilles.com
READER SERVICE NO. 81
14
FINE HOMEBUILDING
M O U N TA I N
L U M B E R Co
ANTIQUE FLOORING
READER SERVICE NO. 218
High Quality Wood Products
• High Quality Wood Products
Sidings
Trim Boards
Flooring
Shakes & Shingles
• Prestaining & Priming Services
15 year factory finish warranty
Choice of paint or stain brand
• Convenient Delivery of Material
to job site
Economical pricing
• Reproduction of Historical Sidings
For restorations
For new construction
CALL FOR A FREE CATALOG
Route 100, Granville, VT 05747
Tel: 802-767-4747
Fax: 802-767-3107
www. woodsiding.com
READER SERVICE NO. 170
READER SERVICE NO. 160
MAX leads where others follow...
Introducing our lighter, smaller
Ultra Lightweight
Only 7.0 lbs.
21 Degree
Full Round Head
Stick Nails
| Framing
| Sheathing
| Subfloors/Decking
Ultra Lightweight
Only 6.8 lbs.
| Siding
| Crating
Compact Design
34 Degree
Clipped Head
Stick Nails
LANCASTER COUNTY
TIMBER FRAMES, INC
(717) 755-2990
www.lancotf.com
Fax (717) 755-6971
lancotf@aol.com
It’s all in the details…
Anti-Double Fire Mechanism (US Patent 5597106)
Selective Trigger System
Single
Fire
Raise your expectations.
For more information, please give us a call.
READER SERVICE NO. 96
Comfortable Grip
Adjustable
Depth Guide
Self Cleaning
System
Maintenance Free
End Cap Filter
US Patent 5637125
AntiDouble
Remove Fire
Step Pin
For more information, call us at
Optional No-Mar Contact Tip
Nose Magnet
Open Nose
Clears Jams
RH Model only
1-800-223-4293 or visit us online at www.maxusacorp.com
Visit Us At NAHB Booth #W0335
READER SERVICE NO. 194
THE MOST
READER SERVICE NO. 196
B E AU T I F U L
WOOD
Timeless Beauty
(In No Time at All)
FLOOR
IN THE
Onl y
WORLD...
Goodwin
River-Recovered Specialists
1.800.336.3118 • WWW.HEARTPINE.COM
available prefinished
River Recovered ® is a Registered Trademark of
Goodwin Lumber, Inc. © 2006 Goodwin Lumber, Inc./DBA
Goodwin Heart Pine. All rights reserved. Printed in U.S.A.
READER SERVICE NO. 49
16
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Let us customize a mantel from our line of authentic, old-world designs
or create one just for you. Call 800-600-8336 for a free catalog or visit
www.oldworldstoneworks.com
READER SERVICE NO. 211
TM
READER SERVICE NO. 112
www.finehomebuilding.com
february/march 2007
17
READER SERVICE NO. 117
A Radical Concept in Radiant Heating…
Affordability.
Everyone agrees that radiant heat is clean,
comfortable, safe, healthful and efficient,
But with Radiantec underfloor radiant you
can add affordable.
Yes, affordable. Radiantec doesn’t
overcomplicate radiant, so they don’t
have to overprice it. Radiantec provides
free design assistance, sells direct to you
or your builder and provides free,
comprehensive, easy-to-follow installation
instructions. Now there’s no reason to settle
for less than radiant, or to pay more for it.
You can afford radiant heat.
With Radiantec’s Domectic Hot Water Powered System, your water
heater provides heat and domestic hot water, eliminating the need for
the most expensive heating appliance in your home, the boiler or furnace.
SINCE 1979
I N C O R P O R A T E D
Radiant for Efficiency. Radiantec for Affordability.
www.radiantec.com
READER SERVICE NO. 50
18
FINE HOMEBUILDING
800.451.7593
© PASLODE CORDLESS, 2005
PROVEN
POWER / PRODUCTIVIT Y / PROFIT
20 years ago, we
pioneered our fuel +
battery technology.
Once a leader,
always a leader.
Paslode Cordless.
PROVE TO YOURSELF WHAT OTHER PROS ALREADY KNOW.
CA L L 800.682.3428 OR VISIT W W W.PASLODE.COM NOW.
READER SERVICE NO. 189
Cross
Section
building news from Around the country
fA s t f o u n d At i o n
10:30 a.m.
Affordable design meets
high-tech housing technology
online eXtrA
For up-to-the-moment
details on the PATH
Concept Home, visit
FineHomebuilding.com,
where you’ll find PATH
house video coverage as
well as Fernando Pagés
Ruiz’s blog documenting
the construction process.
20
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Fernando Pagés Ruiz, a frequent contributor to Fine
Homebuilding and the author
of Building an Affordable House
(The Taunton Press, 2005), is
getting a unique opportunity to
integrate affordable-home
design features with cuttingedge construction technology.
In December 2006, he broke
ground on the first PATH Concept Home, a project sponsored
by the Partnership for Advancing Technology in Housing, a
public-private program of the
U.S. Department of Housing
and Urban Development and
the housing industry.
“I build homes for real people,” Ruiz says. “These families
deserve the best quality, with
long-term durability, low maintenance, and manageable utility
bills. PATH’s Concept Home is
designed to achieve these goals.
It’s packed with leading-edge
technology aimed at improving construction efficiency and
building performance.”
Innovative features include
preassembled insulating concrete forms for foundation walls
3:30 p.m.
Done in a day. Preassembled
foam forms for basement
walls were erected, filled by
a concrete pumper truck, and
screeded level in a single day.
(photos above), panelized floor
framing, soy-based spray-foam
insulation, wireless electrical
switches, and movable interior
walls. Designed by Torti Gallas
and Partners, the 2000-sq.-ft.
home will meet Energy Star,
Environments for Living, LEED
for Homes, and Fair Housing
Act accessibility criteria. The
house is in Omaha, Neb., on a
corner lot donated by the city.
Look for articles on the PATH
house in upcoming issues.
—Tim Snyder is executive editor
at Fine Homebuilding.
Photos right: Courtesy of Chuck Amoura for PATH
Drawing: Courtesy of Chief Architect
1:30 p.m.
READER SERVICE NO. 210
READER SERVICE NO. 171
READER SERVICE NO. 141
www.finehomebuilding.com
february/march 2007
21
Cross
Section
CONTINUED
Modular gets a makeover
Trailblazing design. The Sunset Breezehouse from Michelle
Kaufmann Designs features a
central atrium with a butterflyshaped roof.
Kaufmann launched the business (www.mkd-arc.com)
when she and her husband
were unable to find a house
they could afford in the San
Francisco area; they decided
to build their own. That first
effort, built partly with modular components, became the
original Glidehouse and the
prototype house for a series of
factory-built models that followed (see pp. 68-69).
Kaufmann has tried to
marry the tenets of sustainable
building—energy efficiency,
nontoxic materials, healthful
indoor air, and resource con-
servation—with the benefits of
modular construction.
Glidehouse #1, which was
built in Marin County north of
San Francisco, was 1566 sq. ft.
with three bedrooms and 21⁄2
baths. Buyers now can choose
from one- and two-story models ranging from a 672-sq.-ft.
cottage to a 2240-sq.-ft. house
with four bedrooms and a central courtyard.
Kaufmann followed with
Glidehouse #2, designed for
smaller or urban lots, and the
Bear Creek Lumber
Masters in the Artistry
of Roof Tile
Hand wrought, superbly detailed roof tiles have gained
VHR the reputation of master craftsmen. We offer an
exquisite collection of architecturally styled roof tiles
available in over 1000 color formulas, as well as custom
orders. From historical restoration
to commercial real estate,
our high performance
roof systems will endure.
Beautifully.
1 800 236 8453 www.vrmtile.com
READER SERVICE NO. 14
22
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Port Orford Cedar
Alaskan Yellow Cedar
Western Red Cedar
Redwood
Douglas Fir Clear Grade
Ipe
Timbers - Paneling - Flooring
Trim - Decking - Reclaimed
1-800-597-7191
www.bearcreeklumber.com/fh/
sales@bearcreeklumber.com
READER SERVICE NO. 143
Photo: Courtesy of Michelle Kaufmann Designs
Modular houses are the speed
demons of residential construction. A two-story house can be
craned onto its foundation and
assembled in a single day. But
modular houses aren’t always
remembered for their cuttingedge architecture.
That perception seems to be
changing, however. A number
of small design companies are
offering contemporary modular homes with eco-friendly
features—and they’re finding
a receptive market that is willing to pay more than standard
modular prices.
Michelle Kaufmann, an Oakland, Calif., architect, started
developing a line of modular
houses just five years ago.
“The stone you use says something about the designs you create.
I choose the stone that says something memorable.”
Flexibility. Rich, bold colors. Varied textures. Cultured Stone® gives
you endless design options. So if you want to create something
that makes a statement, something that people will remember, why
would you choose anything else?
Shown: Chardonnay Pro-Fit® Alpine Ledgestone. To find out more about Cultured Stone® products, visit www.culturedstone.com or call 1-800-255-1727.
The product colors you see are as accurate as current photography and printing techniques allow. We suggest you look at product samples before you select colors. ©2006 Owens Corning.
Cultured Stone® is a registered trademark of Owens Corning.
READER SERVICE NO. 201
CONTINUED
Breezehouse, designed in conjunction with Sunset magazine.
The newest house is called the
mkSolaire.
FACTORY-LINE
CONSTRUCTION
WITH A FLAIR
Modular houses are very much
like conventional stick-built
structures, only made in a factory rather than on site. Manufacturers say that production
lines allow greater precision
and eliminate weather damage
to building materials. Waste
and disruption to the building
site are minimized.
According to statistics from
the National Association of
Home Builders, about 45,000
modular houses were built in
the United States in 2004 out
of a total of 1.2 million housing
units (or about 3%).
The new generation of
modular-home manufacturers
is hoping to increase its market
share by offering contemporary
designs rather than traditional
house styles. Companies on this
cutting edge include LivingHomes (www.livinghomes.us)
of Santa Monica, Calif.; FlatPak
(www.flatpakhouse.com) panelized houses devised by Minneapolis architect Charles Lazor;
and Resolution: 4 Architecture
(www.re4a.com) in New York.
Although modular and
panelized houses benefit from
production-line efficiencies, the
houses can be expensive. The
basic Glidehouse, for example,
costs about $140 per sq. ft., but
buyers must add the cost of the
GOOD NEWS
Fewer batteries in the landfill
In the United States and Canada in the first half of 2006, 2.4
million pounds of rechargeable batteries were collected for
recycling, a 6.4% increase from the first half of 2005. The
Call2Recycle program has been more effective because of a
greater number of retail partners, California’s Rechargeable
Battery Recycling Act of 2006, and increased public awareness. To find a drop-off location, call 877-273-2925, or go to
www.call2recycle.org. —Daniel S. Morrison, associate editor
foundation plus transportation,
installation, and other sitedevelopment costs. In total, the
company estimates that a completed Glidehouse costs between
$185 and $250 per sq. ft.
Transportation costs are a
significant factor for modular
homes and typically limit distribution. To broaden distribution,
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READER SERVICE NO. 203
FINE HOMEBUILDING
24
—Scott Gibson is a contributing
editor to Fine Homebuilding.
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MK Designs has opened a new
factory in Tacoma, Wash., and
is considering an East Coast
manufacturing plant.
Kaufmann’s office says the
company currently has more
than 50 projects in various
stages of development.
READER SERVICE NO. 202
Photo: Krysta S. Doerfler
Cross
Section
R
HARDWARE
B I H
eproduCtion
rass & ron
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ardware
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1-800-257-3711
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(Catalogue purchase refunded on 1st order.)
Lifetime
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“Sawhorses don’t get
any better than this!
Every contractor I know should
have a set of these
in his truck.
Lightweight, strong,
sturdy, and easy
to set up.
Now that’s what
Made in America
is all about.”
Gripping Teeth
B.B. Construction
(800) 745-2120
727 South 27th Street, Washougal, WA 98671
www.trojantools.com
READER SERVICE NO. 114
Enjoy Radiant
Soapstone Warmth
READER SERVICE NO. 139
Wide Plank Flooring
WOOD
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or
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READER SERVICE NO. 215
READER SERVICE NO. 79
www.finehomebuilding.com
february/march 2007
25
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READER SERVICE NO. 27
READER SERVICE NO. 185
%
TM
$ $ $ #
www.monarchcovers.com
Superior to standard vent chutes. Great for
insulating under radiant floor heat pipes.
TMF Building Products, LLC
P.O. Box 326, 111 Kero Rd., Carlstadt, NJ 07072
(201) 507-5551
READER
122
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READER SERVICE NO. 29
Don’t compromise your choices of floor
coverings for healthy indoor air quality.
Get both by choosing Warmboard.
The only structural subfloor and radiant panel,
all-in-one.
Hardwood, carpet, tile - no problem.
“Simply Smarter Radiant Heat”
Toll Free: 877-338-5493
READER SERVICE NO. 89
26
FINE HOMEBUILDING
www.warmboard.com
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www.finehomebuilding.com
february/march 2007
27
tips&techniques
e d i t e d a n d i l l u s t r at e d b y c h a r l e s m i l l e r
Adjustable-height
sawhorse
N
j o i s t- h a n g e r h e l p e r N s h i m g a u g e N a n e a s i e r way
t o m o v e a t o i l e t N t e m p o r a ry g u t t e r s N n o t i n g
pa i n t c o l o r s N c u t t i n g m u lt i p l e f r a m i n g m e m b e r s
⁄ -in. by 27⁄ 8-in.
by 36-in. top
34
⁄ -in. by 2-in. by 36-in. side
34
Unable to find a factory-made pair of adjustableheight sawhorses, I designed my own a few years
ago. Made from scrap pieces of plywood and short
⁄ -in. holes,
1 ⁄ in. on center
5 8
12
13⁄ 8-in. by 13⁄ 8-in. oak post,
181⁄ 2 in. long
lengths of oak and 2x4 stock, these horses are light,
⁄ -in. plywood, 33 ⁄4-in.
by 241⁄4-in. top brace
12
sturdy, and easy to use. I can set up a worktable or
support boards quickly at a wide variety of heights.
⁄ 2-in.
dowel peg
1
I’ve also used these horses as outfeed support for
my tablesaw and chopsaw.
⁄ -in. by 41⁄ 2-in. by 301⁄4-in.
side brace
34
If you’re making your own version, I suggest boring
the holes in the oak posts on a drill press to elimi⁄ -in. plywood
column, 11⁄ 2-in.
by 11⁄ 2-in. inside
diameter
34
nate concerns about keeping the holes straight. I
also used the drill press to bore holes in the column
sides, stacking them together to ensure exact alignment. The inside dimension of the columns should
Lap joint,
3
⁄ 8 in. deep
by 3 in. wide
31⁄ 2 in.
be about 1⁄16 in. greater than the cross-sectional
dimension of the posts.
— T i m S n y d e r newtown, Conn.
Plywood
foot
2x4 base,
181⁄ 2 in. long
submit a tip
“Tips & Techniques”
is a forum for readers
to exchange information about methods,
Joist-hanger helper
Awl
⁄4-in. plywood
scrap
3
tools, and jigs they’ve
devised. We’ll pay for
Joist hanger
any we publish. Send
details to Tips, Fine
Homebuilding, P. O.
Joist
scrap
Box 5506, Newtown,
CT 06470-5506, or
email them to us at
FH@Taunton.com.
Metal twist strap
bent to grip joist
hanger
Beam
I often find it necessary to install joist hangers before
installing joists. Working alone, I always struggled as
I tried to hold the hanger in the correct position while
nailing. So I came up with the simple fixture shown in
the drawing to give me another hand. The fixture
consists of a short scrap of one of the joists I’m installing, with a strip of 3⁄4-in. plywood screwed to its top. A
twist strap nailed to the bottom of the fixture tightly
holds a joist hanger against the bottom edge of the scrap
(a little creative bending of the twist strap creates a
spring-clamp effect).
To use the fixture, I place the overhanging portion of
the plywood scrap on a layout mark on the beam. Then
I temporarily stake it to the beam with an awl driven
through a 1⁄4-in.-dia. hole in the end of the strip.
— J e f f C . J o h n S o n Glen Allen, Va.
Fixture holds hanger
in place for nailing.
28
FINE HOMEBUILDING
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How many electricians
does it take...
to convert a recessed
light into a pendant?
None!
CONVERTS RECESSED LIGHTING — IT’S AS EASY AS CHANGING A LIGHT BULB!
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under a layer of plastic, Waterlox ® offers a unique, handmade blend of tung oil and
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READER SERVICE NO. 65
www.finehomebuilding.com
READER SERVICE NO. 72
february/march 2007
29
tips&techniques
continued
2
1
Lay out angle on a
stiff piece of paper.
Cut along
bevel gauge’s
blade.
Bevel gauge
3
Fold paper to bisect angle.
4
Use this angle to set
the sawblade angle.
Finding out-of-square miter angles
While building and trimming staircases, I often run
into odd angles that must have mitered trim applied. I
find them simply by using a bevel gauge and a piece of
stiff paper—no protractor or compass required.
As shown in the drawing (left), I place the paper along
the straight edge of a board. Then I place the body of
the bevel gauge, with its blade set at the required angle
to be bisected, against the board (1). Next, I cut the
paper with a utility knife guided by the bevel gauge’s
blade (2). To find the angle required for the miter cuts, I
fold the sheet of paper in half (3). This action bisects the
angle, and the resulting folded piece of paper can be laid
on a tablesaw or against a miter saw’s fence to adjust for
the cut; no numbers need be involved.
— J o h n s M y T h st. John’s, newfoundland
Toilet-pulling made easier
—JusTin Fink
Removing a toilet to install a new floor or repair framing is never fun, but I have found a way to take some
of the unpleasant side effects out of it. The problem is
that toilets are heavy and unwieldy, and the common
two-piece type is held
together at a joint that can
leak if you put too much
strain on it. Here’s the method
I use to lessen the likelihood
of causing a leak, or trying
to duckwalk a toilet out of a
bathroom by hunching over it
and hanging onto awkwardly
positioned handholds.
After shutting off the water
at the wall-mounted valve, I
disconnect the supply line and
flush the toilet. Then I get
most of the remaining water
Strap crosses
out of the bowl by pouring
just above seat
a couple of quarts of water
hinges.
from a bucket into the bowl.
The siphon action pulls all but a cup of water out of
the trap. Once the trap is bailed, I wrap a rope or a
woven strap around the bowl of the toilet in a figureeight pattern, as shown in the drawing above. The
straps should cross just above the toilet-seat hinges.
Lifting on the straps where they cross provides a
sturdy handhold at a good balance point. The toilet
stays vertical, one person can lift the toilet and carry it
outside (even down stairs), spilled water is minimal, and
no hands have to grip the rim of the bowl.
Glastonbury, Conn.
— M a r k M i l l s - T h y s e n sebastopol, Calif.
Shim gauge
⁄ in.
12
30
⁄ in.
3 8
⁄ in.
14
In home building, square, level, and plumb are admirable goals, but we sometimes fall a little short of the
ideal. As a consequence, we turn to shims. They are
vital for adjusting the fit of prehung doors, banks of
cabinets, and custom built-ins, or for just about any
other finish-carpentry task. Traditional tapered shims
are nice because they can be adjusted incrementally to
ensure a perfectly plumb or level installation. To me,
though, this benefit is also their downfall. Because the
face of the shim is tapered, the object I’m adjusting
ultimately is resting on only a sliver of the shim, rather
than bearing on its full surface.
To remedy this problem, I filched an old stairbuilder’s
trick by making a gauge to measure the size of the gap
I’m trying to fill. As shown in the drawing below, I cut
a scrap of wood into the shape of a thick shim.
Then I marked the points on the shim where
it diminished in size by 1⁄16 in. with numbers
and contrasting bands of color so that
they are identified easily.
Now I can slide my shim gauge
between a door jamb and a king
stud until the prehung unit
is plumb, look at the depth
5 ⁄ 16 in.
indicated on the gauge,
7⁄ 16 in.
and rip a flat-face piece of
stock to the exact thickness
I need.
FINE HOMEBUILDING
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tips&techniques
continued
Temporary gutters bail out
a siding crew
Last fall, we had a job putting new siding on a house.
When we set up our pump jacks on the south side of
the house, right below the eaves, the sun came out and
started to melt new snow on the gutterless roof. The
temperature was hovering around 32°F, causing
the drips to freeze on our aluminum staging plank and making a hazardous
situation (not to mention the
annoyance of having
icy water dripping on us). A thought occurred to me at
break time when I saw some leftover drip edge in the
house. After break, we climbed back up to our staging and took along four 10-ft. lengths of drip edge. As
shown in the drawing at left, we flipped the drip edge
upside down and slid it between the starter course of
shingles and the first course of shingles. Bingo! Instant
gutter. The beauty of this solution was a good friction
fit that required no fasteners. We were able to lap four
pieces, which ran the length of the building. When we
broke down the pump jacks, we simply slid out the
drip-edge gutters.
— n O e l B i s H O P Fletcher, Vt.
First-course
shingle
Drip edge slipped
upside down between
first-course and starter
shingles acts as a
temporary gutter.
Starter shingle
Keeping track of paint colors
Here’s a tip that your customers will thank you for.
Before placing the light-switch plate back on the wall
after painting a room, I write on the back of the plate
the brand of the paint and the color code. It takes the
guesswork out of matching colors down the line, and
my customers really appreciate the extra attention.
ISSUE 100 // 1996
— J a c k F l e m i n g via email
tip from the archives
Don’t move the pile
Here’s another approach to cutting multiple framing members without moving
the pile of lumber. In his article on cutting multiples (FHB #88, pp. 58-61), Larry
Square across unit
from both sides.
2
Haun advises us to square up one end of the pile and then measure the ends of
the material. I was taught that it is too time-consuming to align the ends of the
sticks. Instead, I make a reference line perpendicular to the running edge of the
1
pile and close to one end, as shown in the drawing (right).
Cutline
Assume you have a unit of 16-ft. 2x4s from which you need to cut many at a
14-ft. 101⁄2-in. length. Place a framing square as shown in the drawing at position 1. Make sure the line to be drawn is inside even the most deeply buried
end of any given stick. If a couple of them are way out of alignment, knock
Unit of lumber
with uneven ends
them back in from the opposite side. Mark the line, and extend it with a framing square from the opposite side at position 2.
4
Now set your saw to make a cut that is 15⁄ 8 in. deep, and cut along the line.
You can cut on either side of the reference line, but make the cut straight. The
3
blade extends through the first layer to mark the cut in the second layer.
Pull your tape from the ends of the pieces in the top layer to mark the 14-ft.
101⁄2-in. length at positions 3 and 4. Mark the line of the cut with your square,
and this time cut to the outside of the line. Pull off the top layer of material,
and you’re ready to cut the subsequent layers. All you have to do is take your
time (you’ve already saved a lot of time). Work carefully, and don’t let any of
the lower courses move as you remove the top courses.
— W i l l i a m H . T r a c y Portland, Ore.
32
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Lay out required
length with a tape,
and mark cutline.
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Made in the USA
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READER SERVICE NO. 30
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For more Info 707-824-2560
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READER SERVICE NO. 183
READER SERVICE NO. 43
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READER SERVICE NO. 173
Easy to Install Wainscoting Kits
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READER SERVICE NO. 26
STAIN
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READER SERVICE NO. 130
READER SERVICE NO. 159
Go online for product
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#
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READER SERVICE NO. 187
34
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Find our advertisers’ web sites
quickly and easily on
our online Advertiser Index at
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DUMBWAITERS
This Vertical Valet System
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READER SERVICE NO. 33
READER SERVICE NO. 175
tools&materials
NEW AND NOTEWORTHY PRODUCTS
SMALL TABLESAW
IS BIG ON FEATURES
D W 7 4 5 1 0 - I N . C O M PA C T
J O B - S I T E TA B L E S A W
Manufactured by DeWalt
800-433-9258; www.dewalt.com
N Cost: $370
N
In a tool market where the word portable
has become a blanket term for anything
not bolted to the floor, it’s refreshing to see
a new portable tablesaw that doesn’t make
my back hurt just looking at it.
The new DW745 is basically a slimmeddown version of DeWalt’s popular DW744.
The saw includes the popular rack-andpinion fence, which is easy to adjust, and
has an excellent hairline indicator to make
zeroing in on precise measurements a cinch.
The big news, though, is in what DeWalt
has changed. For starters, this compact saw
is roughly 22 in. sq. and is protected by a
sturdy steel roll cage. Plus, at only 45 lb., it
weighs about 20 lb. less than the DW744.
In fact, I found it fairly easy to carry in just
one hand. Also, the rip capacity has been
reduced from 241⁄2 in. to a more modest
16 in.—a size and weight trade-off I am
more than willing to accept.
The rest of the features are what you
would expect to find on a high-quality
tablesaw: easy depth and bevel adjustments, simple two-wrench blade changes,
standard-size miter slots that work with
aftermarket accessories, and a large power
switch on the lower left front of the saw
body, where it is visible and easy to reach.
Also, although it was unreleased at the
time I tested the saw, DeWalt now offers
a simple X-style folding stand as an aftermarket accessory.
In use, the saw had plenty of power for
any task I threw at it. Ripping hardwood
casing and 2x stock, trimming 1-in.-thick
MDF stair risers and 5/4 oak treads, and
back-beveling the bottom edge of hundreds
of feet of baseboard were all easy with a
good blade installed.
The saw has a couple of weak points. Its
inability to run a dado blade might be a deal
breaker for some people. But I was more
disappointed to find that the DW745 comes
with a low-end, disposable blade that
performs poorly and leaves yellow paint
on everything it cuts. I had hoped for better
on a saw marketed to trim carpenters—
especially because I’m a fan of DeWalt’s
higher-quality blades. Still, these weaknesses aren’t enough to outweigh the positive features of this tool.
Kit Camp is a finish carpenter in
San Diego.
TEMPORARY DOOR LATCH
THE BLUE THING
Manufactured by Perfect Products
N 877-366-7728; www.doorsaver.com
N Cost: $1 apiece
N
At some point during the construction of a new house or addition, it’s likely that you’ll find exterior doors wedged shut with
cedar shims. Until the hardware is installed, the shim strategy
is cheap but also unsightly and only marginally reliable.
A better way to keep doors shut while they await locksets
is to use The Blue Thing, a cleverly molded plastic latch that
fits in the lock bore. Its plastic spring bears against the bore’s
side, driving the latch into the strike mortise. A finger tug on The Blue Thing opens the
door. While not a security system, The Blue Thing should do a great job holding doors
against the wind, and at a buck a pop, not even a miser should mind the price.
Andy Engel is a carpenter and writer in Roxbury, Conn.
36
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Photos this page: Courtesy of DeWalt (top); Krysta S. Doerfler (bottom left); Justin Fink (bottom right)
N
www.wiwpine.com • 512-328-8837
What It’s Worth, Inc.
ANTIQUE LONGLEAF HEART PINE ‘Old Reveal’
READER SERVICE NO. 15
READER SERVICE NO. 147
Safety Boot temporary guardrails
simplify installation by eliminating
bracing. Its free-standing design is
simple,low-cost and exceeds OSHA
fall protection requirements. The
Safety Boot is tested, proven and
certified effective by a third-party
engineering testing firm.
Safety Maker, Inc.
1-800-804-4741 • w w w.saf etyboot.co m
READER SERVICE NO. 157
Grate Vents
WOODEN FLOOR GRATES
From 2” x 10” to 20” x 32”
• 3 FLOOR MODELS • BASEBOARD • WALLMOUNTED •
UNFINISHED OR PREFINISHED • EGGCRATE OR LOUVERED
Send $2.00 for catalog and receive a $5.00 coupon to:
Grate Vents
P.O. Box 471
Crystal Lake, IL 60039-0471
(815) 459-4306
Fax (815) 459-4267
www.gratevents.com
READER SERVICE NO. 131
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READER SERVICE NO. 76
www.finehomebuilding.com
!"# # $$ %$&' ((' ' ) &
READER SERVICE NO. 109
february/march 2007
37
tools&materials
CONTINUED
HigH-PriCed Horses
TS-27 aND TS-35 SaWhOrSE lEgS
Manufactured by Trojan Manufacturing inc.
800-745-2120; www.trojantools.com
N Cost: About $62 for one 35-in. sawhorse; $56 for the 27-in. version
N
N
I’ve tried lots of sawhorse styles:
collapsible plastic frames that
were nice and light but too
flimsy to handle a full load of
lumber; aluminum brackets
that attached to scrap 2x4s but
bent out of shape after only
one use; steel fold-up units that
were too heavy to lug around;
and a few different site-made
versions as well.
My curiosity was piqued when
I heard about the premiumpriced sawhorses from Trojan
Manufacturing. I believe that
you usually get what you pay
for, but could a $60 sawhorse
really be worth the money?
After putting a pair of Trojan TS-35s to work, I’d have
to say the answer is yes. With
the Trojan horses, I get the
support of 1⁄8-in.-thick weldedsteel legs and the flexibility of
choosing any size and length
of 2x lumber for the top piece.
For cutting sheet goods to size,
a simple 4-ft.-long 2x4 or 2x6
makes a great saw-friendly sacrificial cross bar. If I’m painting
trim, I can increase the sawhorses’ capacity by using 8-ft.long, bevel-ripped 2xs to hold
dozens of boards side by side.
Setting up the horses the first
few times was awkward, but
I found that the secret is to
lay the 2x on the ground,
then clamp the sharptoothed Trojan legs into
place on each end of the
board. With the board
held loosely in place
between the jaws of
the metal legs, I flip
over the whole
assembly and push
the scissor hinge
down with my boot to lock the
setup firmly in place.
The horses are sold in 27-in.
and 35-in. heights. A pair of
horses costs roughly $112 to
$124, depending on size.
Justin Fink is an assistant editor
at Fine Homebuilding.
WObblE lIghT Jr.
Manufactured by Wobble Light, LLC
N 847-577-3720; www.wobblelight.com
N Cost: Prices start at about $90 (150w incandescent)
N
I’ve destroyed so many halogen work lights that I
couldn’t count them if I tried. So I was ready to try
anything when I saw the abuse-resistant Wobble
Light Jr. This work light rests on a rounded
base that holds a heavy countering weight.
When the Wobble Jr. is bumped, it bounces
back upright like a freestanding punching bag.
Due to some particularly rough shipping, the light that I received
took plenty of punches during delivery. The box was mangled,
the plastic housing was dented, the base had been pulled off, and
the bulb was broken. I don’t know that I’d have treated this light
like the game ball in a rugby match just for the sake of a review,
38
FINE HOMEBUILDING
but after reattaching the base and changing the
lightbulb, I’m happy to say that the light still
worked perfectly.
I’m accustomed to halogens mounted atop a stand.
Getting used to the floor-level angle of light from the
Wobble Jr. was odd at first, but I grew to like it. I still
wonder, though, whether the plastic body is going to
crack after a few freezing-cold nights in the trailer
of my truck. And although I really appreciate the integrated male and female grounded receptacles (which let
me plug in another light or even a tool), the plugs aren’t
well reinforced, and I don’t have much confidence in their
long-term durability. Those two points aside, however, I don’t see
any reason not to have a gaggle of Wobbles swaying in my trailer.
Randal Weber is a trim carpenter and remodeling contractor in
Lincoln, Neb.
Photos: Krysta S. Doerfler
Abuse-resisTAnT Work LigHT
# !$ %
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READER SERVICE NO. 193
# )
tools&materials
CONTINUED
PRESOLDERED
COPPER FITTINGS
E Z - S W E AT F I T T I N G S
Manufactured by Watts Water Technologies
978-688-1811; www.watts.com
N Cost: Varies by size and type of fitting; 1⁄ 2-in.
connector (center photo) is 50¢
N
About 10 years ago, after my plumber failed to
return my calls one too many times, I decided to
learn as much as I could about plumbing. Since
then, I’ve discovered that knowing how to solder
copper and brass fittings is one of the handiest
skills a remodeling contractor can have. It’s also satisfying work.
On a recent kitchen remodel, I had to solder seven fittings
within a cubic foot of space—and try not to burn myself with the
propane torch in the process. Completing the task with a torch in
one hand and a coil of solder in the other was difficult. To make the
work easier, I decided to use EZ-Sweat presoldered copper fittings.
The concept is simple. Rather than requiring an application of
solder to a torch-heated joint, EZ-Sweat products have a little
band of solder on the inside of each fitting.
There’s not much of a learning curve to using
these fittings. You don’t need to clean them
unless they have become dirty or corroded;
and there’s no need to apply flux to the EZSweat fittings, either. Just clean and flux the pipe
ends as normal, slip on the fittings, apply heat until
you see a little ring of solder appear at the seam, and
you’re done.
EZ-Sweat fittings are competitive in price with standard copper
fittings (when you add in the price of the solder to the latter). More
important, they’re easy to use, and they’re reliable.
John Carroll is a builder in Durham, N.C.
),4
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40
FINE HOMEBUILDING
# RTQFWEVQH0%(+2QN[WTGVJCPGU
Photos: Krysta S. Doerfler
Factory-applied bands of solder
simplify plumbing connections.
N
Beauty that
Warms your Home
Soapstone Heaters
by Rod Zander
Own the next
great classic before
it becomes one.
www.rodzander.com
Goshen, Connecticut • 877-491-3091
READER
63
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READER SERVICE NO. 182
A
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Until then, we invite you to collaborate with us as we work to create the
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READER SERVICE NO. 67
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READER SERVICE NO. 105
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READER SERVICE NO. 124
february/march 2007
41
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READER SERVICE NO. 191
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READER SERVICE NO. 134
READER SERVICE NO. 8
42
FINE HOMEBUILDING
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breaktime
FINe HomebuILdING oN tHe Web
Advice from our online forum
www.finehomebuilding.com
If you haven’t visited “Breaktime,” our online discussion group, then
you’re missing out on a fascinating exchange of ideas, advice, and
commentary. You’ll find “Breaktime” on our Web site at www.fine
homebuilding.com. Listed below are some recent highlights.
44
Paint for fiber-cement siding?
CreAted by WAdsWob: I read on the James Hardie
Web site (www.jameshardie.com) that their preprimed fiber-cement lap siding should be painted
within 180 days of installation. Is this necessary?
About three years ago, I covered a garage with the
siding, which I still have not painted, and no problems
are visible.
Posted by saulgood: My guess is that the
“
your question in the residential section of the forum,
and get ready for hundreds of varying opinions and lots
of brand-bashing.
In my opinion, a good installation is more important
than the brand. A top-of-the-line heat pump in the
hands of a poor installer will still leave you with a mess.
Posted by brownbagg: When it comes to HVAC,
you get what you pay for. What you should be most
concerned with is hooking up with a reputable dealer
who will stand behind the product warranty. Most
brands are good, but the HVAC outfits that sell and
install them are small, and might not be around 10 years
from now when you’re most likely to need service. My
advice is to choose a company with at least 30 employees
that has been in business since at least 1975. They will
have the best chance of still being around when you
need them. Don’t bother with anybody else.
I never trust factory-primed
surfaces because chances
are that oxidation has occurred
by the time the siding is
ready for installation.
180-day time limit assumes you’re planning
to topcoat; if not, you probably don’t have
to worry. If you ever do topcoat, though,
you definitely should sand, wash, and
reprime the surface first. The problem is
that oxidation interferes with paint’s ability to bond. All paint oxidizes, but primer
tends to oxidize faster than finish paint. I
never trust factory-primed surfaces to be
ready for a coat of finish paint because chances are that
oxidation has occurred by the time the siding is ready
for installation.
Posted by WayneL5: I agree with Saulgood. Primers
are made to bond tightly between the substrate and the
topcoat, but the trade-off is that they give up the ability
to resist weathering. Before painting, you should wash
and reprime. Also, use a 100% acrylic primer; never use
an oil-based product on fiber cement because the oil in
the primer reacts with the alkali in the material and
saponifies (turns to soap), causing it to flake or peel.
Choosing a new heat pump
CreAted by Kovr: I have a 2700-sq.-ft. house heated
with an oil furnace. I plan to switch to a heat-pump
system, but because of the cost of this system, I want
to get some opinions on the best brands to consider.
Posted by Junkhound: If you are looking for manu-
facturer comparisons, visit www.hvac-talk.com, post
FINE HOMEBUILDING
”
Plastic vs. metal tool cases
CreAted by bubbAJAmes: Is anybody else tired of
the inadequate plastic cases being sold with power
tools these days? they’re either too big, which
means the tool rattles around; or too small, which
means you have to fight to get the case closed. What
happened to the rugged metal cases that used to
be sold?
Posted by Leelamb: I’m with you. If a case is plastic, I
throw it away and replace it with a steel toolbox. Those
plastic cases have no wiggle room, and they typically
rely on junk hinges. I swap them for a big metal toolbox
that has room for bits, blades, fasteners, extension cords,
and the other things that you inevitably need while
you’re using the tool. Who would want to carry a finish
nailer and not have an assortment of nails, too? Who
would want to carry a drill and not have an assortment
of bits?
Posted by dieselpig: Playing nicely with a plastic case
is a delicate thing. For instance, I can fit a mother lode
!
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READER SERVICE NO. 60
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READER SERVICE NO. 216
www.finehomebuilding.com
READER SERVICE NO. 200
february/march 2007
45
breaktime
“
CoNtiNuED
of spare jigsaw blades in my carrying case, but trying to
close the lid without pinching the power cord is like trying to dunk a cat into a glass of water.
My favorites are steel carrying cases, but they are rare
things to find these days. That said, I just bought a
Makita reciprocating saw, and it came with a great steel
carrying case. The box
easily holds the saw
with a 6-in. blade still
chucked in the collet as
well as the saw’s cord
without any hassles.
And somehow, Makita
managed to keep the
whole package contained in a reasonably
sized footprint.
Trying to close the
lid without pinching
the power cord is like
trying to dunk a cat
into a glass of water.
”
Does using PEX pipe affect water flow
or pressure?
CrEatED by boEtiusJ: i’m installing PEX pipe and
noticed that the inside diameters of the fittings are
much smaller than the fittings on the copper pipe
ALL MEAT
NO FILLER
that i’m used to. is it necessary to size up with PEX to
get the same pressure and volume as copper? intuition says yes, supply house says no. any thoughts?
Posted by andyEngel: PEX, like CPVC, comes in the
same outside diameters as conventional copper pipe. So
your intuition about the inside diameter being smaller
is correct. But PEX is smoother and requires fewer fittings, so the codes accept it on a size-for-size basis with
copper. If you can use 1⁄2-in. copper, you can use 1⁄2-in.
PEX and expect the same or a better flow.
Posted by MarkLs8: PEX typically is plumbed as a
“home run.” If more than one fixture is calling for water,
each is likely to have its own feed directly from the main
distribution manifold, so flow restriction or pressure
drops really won’t be noticeable. Conventionally laidout copper plumbing typically draws from one main
feed line, and then branches off to different fixtures
along its length, which sometimes can result in pressure
and volume drop. Of course, the larger the house and
the longer the runs, the more that this becomes an
important difference.
Posted by Nrtrob: If in doubt, get ahold of the flowrate charts for the PEX you are using; the manufacturer
should have that data available for you.
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FINE HOMEBUILDING
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READER SERVICE NO. 86
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READER SERVICE NO. 197
february/march 2007
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READER SERVICE NO. 220
Fine Homebuilding
BY TOM MEEHAN
O
ne aspect of civilization that the
Romans got right
was the tiled bath.
Since then, Europeans have built
tiled bathrooms that present no
distinction between the shower
and the rest of the room. This
design’s success depends on lots
of tile and a mortar substrate
that slopes to a strategically
placed floor drain. A lack of
thresholds also makes this kind
of bathroom perfect for wheelchair access.
On this side of the pond, socalled Eurobaths have found
their way into the mainstream
of American bathroom design,
even when accessibility is not a
factor. I recently completed such
a bathroom for a homeowner
who needed an accessible, elegant design (photo left).
A Sloping
Floor for a
Barrier-Free
Bath
An old-fashioned mud job
and a high-tech membrane
team up for a leakproof floor
50
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Reframing the floor
around the drain gets
you ahead of the game
The key to a successful Eurobath is pitching the floor to a single drain in or near the shower
area. The best way to create this
pitched floor is with a full mortar bed, also called a mud job.
The process is similar to what
is done for a shower-stall floor,
only now the mud job covers the
entire room.
Before taking on a bathroom
of this type, I check the existing
floor for level. A floor pitched
strongly away from the drain is
usually enough for me to pass
on the job. I also make sure the
Showers without borders. Tumbled slate, custom accent tiles,
and a built-in shower seat add
up to a stylish open bath that’s
also wheelchair-accessible.
Drawings: Clark Barre
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
A c o n t o u r m A p i d e n t i f i e s f l At A n d s l o p i n g s e c t i o n s
With an open plan and
more than 100 sq. ft. of
floor area, this bathroom
can accommodate both
level and sloping sections
of floor. located well away
from the shower, the tub
and the toilet can sit on
level floors. the contour
lines show how the mud
layer slopes to the shower
drain. the pitch is about
1⁄4 in. per ft. in perimeter
areas and slightly steeper
in the shower area. a
slight downward slope
near the doorway drops
the transition height to
equal the adjacent floor
while letting the rest of
the bathroom drain to
the shower.
To match the
adjacent floor,
the bathroom
floor might
slope slightly
toward the
doorway.
shower
drain
level area
below toilet
level area
Cr
os
ss
ec
tio
n
Each line equals a 1⁄4-in.
change in elevation.
“ridge” line
level area
for the tub
1 ⁄ 2-in. average
thickness
1
⁄ 4-in. minimum
mortar thickness
3
Floor framing is
recessed by 11⁄ 2 in.
to increase pitch.
Cross section of the slope
Get a head start
on the slope
(1) to increase the floor’s pitch to-
1
www.finehomebuilding.com
2
ward the drain over a short distance,
the floor framing is recessed by
11⁄ 2 in. (2) narrower joists are tripled
for extra strength. (3) a layer of #15
felt paper creates a barrier so that
the moisture won’t seep out of the
mortar. to give the mortar purchase
on the floor, I nail a layer of 21⁄ 2-lb.
diamond-mesh galvanized-wire lath
over the paper with galvanized roofing nails. the mesh seams should
overlap about 1 in.
3
February/March 2007
51
floor is good and strong without
any bounce.
To keep the finished floor from
ending too high at doorways, I
had the carpenters on this job
frame a 1 1 ⁄ 2-in. recess in the
shower area, replacing the 2x10
joists with narrower 2x6s that
then were tripled for added
strength. When reframing isn’t a
viable option (on an upper floor
or a slab, for instance), I get the
drain as low as I can and use a
smoother tile (2x2 or less) that
won’t impede the flow toward
the drain. I also have the option
of using NobleFlex drain flashing
(bottom sidebar, p. 54). When
the reframing was complete, I
put a layer of #15 felt paper over
the entire floor, then nailed
down 2 1 ⁄ 2-lb. diamond-mesh
galvanized-wire lath with 11⁄2-in.
roofing nails, overlapping the
mesh joints by at least an inch.
Felt paper isolates the mortar bed
from movement in the subfloor
and keeps the wooden subfloor
from sucking moisture out of the
mortar as it dries. The wire lath
anchors the mortar to the floor.
begin with
mounds of
mortar
(1) a dry mix of mortar is
distributed evenly around
the perimeter of the room.
(2) after cementing the
drain at the proper height,
i fill the space below the
flange with a slightly wetter
mortar mix, making sure the
space is filled completely. i
then distribute more mortar
around the shower area.
1
Screeds guide the
floor pitch
In a large mortar box, I mix the
mortar by thoroughly combining 25 shovelfuls of sand to each
bag of portland cement; then I
add water a little at a time (about
5 gal. per batch) until the mortar
has a dry but stiff consistency. It
should stay together when you
form it into a ball in your hand.
I plan for about 35 sq. ft. of coverage averaging a 11⁄2-in. depth
with each batch mixed as above.
I set the drain low enough to
get a pitch of at least 1⁄4 in. per ft.
(drawing p. 51). After gluing
the drain flange to the PVC
waste line, I dump buckets of
mortar around the perimeter of
the room and around the drain
in 8-in.- to 10-in.-high mounds.
Using a slightly wetter mortar
mix, I make sure to fill the space
under the flange completely.
52
FINE HOMEBUILDING
The height of the door threshold where the bathroom floor
meets the adjacent floor is the
most critical juncture. Taking
into account the thickness of the
floor tile and the height of the
adjacent floor, I pack and flatten
the mortar with a steel trowel
until it is the proper height.
With that as a standard height,
I then work my way around the
room’s perimeter. Because water
is unlikely to reach the far corners of the room, I level the perimeter of the floor to allow the
toilet, the vanity, and the tub to
sit squarely.
The shower is a big
shallow bowl
Now I’m ready to pitch the floor
of the shower area. I dump a few
buckets of mortar between the
level perimeter and the drain, and
pack the mortar into that area.
So that the mortar screeds
evenly, one end of the straightedge rides on the perimeter
while the other end rides on the
drain. As I work, I switch tools
constantly, screeding with a level,
packing with a steel trowel, and
smoothing the surface with a
wood float.
I find it easier to scrape the surface down to the finished height,
so I keep the mortar slightly
high, and use trowels and levels
to pitch the floor to the drain. I
continue to check the slant of the
floor, pulling the excess mortar
toward me to create a shallow
bowl in the shower area.
Once the bowl is formed, the
mortar is smoothed with a wood
float to take out any small high
2
or low spots. Finally, I use a steel
trowel at a shallow angle to press
in a tight, shiny finish.
A membrane waterproofs
the mud
Because mortar is porous, it
needs to be waterproofed with
an impervious membrane. The
membrane needs not only to
cover the floor but also to extend
at least 6 in. up the wall.
I used Schlüter’s Kerdi membrane for this project (bottom
sidebar, p. 54). Any nonlatexmodified thinset (also known as
dry set) will attach the membrane
to the mortar bed, but I used the
recommended Ditra-Set (Bostik;
www.bostik-us.com).
I begin by spreading thinset
along the edges of the mortar bed and walls with a 3⁄ 16-in.
Product photos: Krysta S. Doerfler
1
Pack a wetter mix
of mortar beneath
the flange.
Bonding
flange
adheres to the
membrane.
Subfloor
www.finehomebuilding.com
2
3
pack,
Screed,
Smooth
my basic strategy here is to bed the drain, pack
the mud flat and level around the higher perimeter
of the floor, and then work at creating the slope
between high and low. (1) I use a short level and a
long aluminum straightedge to get the perimeter
level. (2) a wooden float held at a 45° angle pushes
the mortar tight against the wall. (3) Levels of different lengths also serve as screeds, enabling me to
check the pitch of the floor while removing bumps
and filling hollows. (4) as I pack and fair the slope
of the mud, I use a wooden float to remove high
spots and a steel trowel held at a low angle to
finish the surface.
4
february/march 2007
53
A LAYERED
MEMBRANE SEALS
THE MORTAR
To waterproof the mortar bed completely, the
membrane is applied
in sequence. (1) The
inside- and outsidecorner pieces are
applied; any excess thinset is squeezed out and
removed. (2) A 5-in.wide strip is folded into
the seam where the
floor meets the wall and
is cemented in place.
(3) After dry-fitting
the first large sheet
of membrane, I roll it
up, then trowel thinset
onto the sheet’s place on the floor.
A wide taping knife pushes the
excess thinset to the edges and
from around the drain. Successive
sections should overlap by about 3 in.; I
leave about 1⁄ 2 in. of
space where the wall
and floor membranes
overlap the corners
(drawing right).
ALTERNATIVE MEMBRANE
AND DRAIN FLASHING
1
2
3
Both products are covered with a thin
layer of fabric on each side that lets them
Many manufacturers make waterproofadhere to thinset. However, Schlüter
ing membranes, but over the past 25
specifies that Kerdi be installed with
years, I’ve used two brands with great
nonlatex-modified thinset (dry set), while
success: Schlüter (www.schluter
Noble requires a latex-modified
.com) and Noble (www.noble
thinset. One major advantage
company.com). Although the
to NobleSeal TS is that it acts
membranes are slightly differas a crack-isolation membrane
ent, they both yield the same
in addition to waterproofing,
great results. Both manufacmaking it an excellent choice
turers also offer reliable techover substrates like wood that
nical support.
are likely to move over time.
For this project, I used
NobleSeal TS comes in 5-ft.NobleSeal TS
Schlüter’s Kerdi membrane. The
wide rolls, while Kerdi comes
equivalent Noble product is NobleSeal
in 5-in., 71⁄4-in., 10-in., and 39-in. widths.
TS. I usually opt for the Kerdi because
Kerdi makes preformed inside and outit’s thinner (8 mil versus 31.5 mil for the
side corners; NobleSeal TS has just
NobleSeal TS) and therefore easier to
outside corners.
work. Many installers choose NobleSeal
For the project featured here, I used
TS, however, precisely because it’s thicker
Schlüter’s drain system, Kerdi-Drain.
and heavier.
Noble makes an interesting product
54
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Alternative drain
flashing allows
drain to be set
below mortar for
better pitch.
NobleFlex
called NobleFlex Drain Flashing (drawing
above) that can be used with most
drains that have clamping rings. Resembling an upside-down hat, this flashing
fits between 16-in. on-center joists,
enabling me to gain a lot of floor pitch
without reframing the floor.
V-notch trowel, then press the
Kerdi preformed inside and outside corners into place. Using a
taping knife with rounded corners, I squeeze out excess thinset from beneath the corners,
then coat the exposed surfaces to
attach the overlapping layer.
Next, I cut a length from a 5-in.wide roll of membrane and fold it
in half down the middle. Pressed
into the corners, the membrane should cover each side by
21⁄ 2 in. and overlap the previously installed corner pieces. As
before, I flatten the membrane
and squeeze out excess thinset.
Before installing the larger
sections of membrane over the
mortar bed, I sweep the floor
thoroughly. Beginning in the
shower area, I cut to length all
sections and dry-fit them. The
first section goes over the shower
drain; I carefully mark and cut
out the drain location, using a
manufacturer’s template.
I also use a permanent marker
to draw a line onto the mortar
at the edge of the first section
to guide the thinset application.
Each successive section overlaps
the line of the previous section
about 3 in. After each section is
dry-fit, I roll it up, number it,
and put it aside.
When all the sections are
cut, I spread thinset to the first
guideline with a notched trowel.
Spreading the thinset in one
direction, I extend it onto the
flange of the drain, then slowly
unroll the first membrane section, keeping the edge aligned
with the guideline. As membrane is unrolled, I press it into
the thinset with a taping knife,
keeping the membrane straight
and flat by continually pushing
excess thinset to the edge of the
section. After bedding each section, I spread the thinset to the
overlap line of the previous section before repeating the process.
Finally, I apply a floor-to-ceiling
membrane to the shower walls,
using the same method that I
www.finehomebuilding.com
tiling is the easy part
(1) With a straightedge and a large fold-
1
ing square, i set the layout dry using a
snapped chalkline to keep the irregular
stone tile straight. (2, 3) after embedding a three-piece adjustable drain in
thinset (4), i use a few taps of the trowel
handle to set the finished flange to the
level of the tile. the rest of the floor is
tiled a few rows at a time. after the tile
is installed, the stone is sealed, grouted,
and sealed again to complete the floor.
2
3
4
used on the floors to ensure a
waterproof installation.
Smaller tile means
better drainage
After the membrane sits overnight, the floor is ready for tile. I
protect the membrane with felt
paper or cardboard to minimize
any puncture risk. The only difference from a regular tile installation is that the membrane is
now the substrate for the tile.
On this job, I installed 4-in.sq. tumbled slate on the floor.
Larger tile requires a little more
pitch because the tiles can’t conform to the shape of the floor as
well as smaller tiles. I gave this
floor a little more pitch than I
would for a typical handicappedaccessible bath because of the
unevenness of the slate, which
also can impede drainage.
I always start with a dry layout
to see where the tile courses land.
I try to use full tiles in areas that
are seen first and most frequently.
For this project, I first measured
eight courses off the wall and
snapped a chalkline across the
room. Then I used a large folding
square (C.H. Hanson; www
.asquaretools.com) to establish
a line perpendicular to the first
line. I dry-fit tiles along both
lines and adjust the layout as
needed. In this case, I was able
to get the 4-in.-sq. drain to land
perfectly within the tile layout.
With the layout set, I spread
thinset and install tile the same
as I would for any similar installation, working about 15 sq. ft. at
a time. No matter what product
is used, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Again, I used Ditra-Set to set
the tile. Because the uneven surface of the tile makes it harder
to clean, I gave the tile two coats
of sealer before grouting and
another sealer coat afterward. :
Tom Meehan and his wife,
Lane, are the authors of
Working with Tile (The
Taunton Press, 2005). Photos
by Roe A. Osborn, except
where noted.
FEBrUAry/mArCH 2007
55
Cordless
Framing Nailers
Are they
ready for
full-time use?
Four brands, five reviewers, and 25,000
nails’ worth of research shed some light
on the pros and cons of unplugging
from the air compressor
BY JOHN SPIER
A
dozen or so years ago, I tried out a gas-powered, cordless
framing nailer. I wasn’t too impressed at the time; the
gun was a lot slower than I was. But I thought the idea of
unplugging from the compressor had merit, so I’ve been
watching these tools ever since, figuring that the technology had to be
improving. When Fine Homebuilding offered my crew the chance to put
a few of the newest nailers through their paces, I jumped at it. The five
of us used them for a couple of months, doing miscellaneous framing
and two gut rehabs, and most recently building a new two-car garage.
What they’re good for, and what they’re not
By the end of our testing, I was convinced that one of these tools
easily would pay for itself on those little projects where I don’t want
to set up an air compressor and a hose. With a cordless nailer and
some battery-powered saws, I can go into a house and build a soffit,
change a door or window opening, or frame a closet in less time than
it normally would take me to set up power and air for my pneumatic
tools. Gas-powered guns are also great for small jobs where I don’t
want to carry a compressor up three flights of stairs, or listen to it run
constantly as I work in a small, cramped room. If you’re an electrician
or plumber who only occasionally needs a framing nailer, say to put
56
FINE HOMEBUILDING
up some blocking, these guns definitely make sense. As long as you
remove the battery and gas cartridge between uses, half-charged batteries and half-used fuel cells stay fine over several weeks of inactivity.
To say that these guns are ready for full-time framing would be a
stretch, however. Trust me, we tried. To put the guns to the test, my crew
and I left our compressor and hoses in the truck and framed an entire
24-ft. by 32-ft. Cape-style garage with three dormers. I really liked
climbing around on staging with no hose dragging behind me, but the
guns slowed us down by misfiring, by not sinking nails consistently,
and by running out of gas or low on battery power in the middle of use.
Still some kinks to work out
Not one of these guns had the power to drive 12d or 16d (31⁄4 in. or
31⁄2 in.) nails consistently all the way into framing lumber. They all
did OK with 3-in. nails, which is fine for interior framing but not for
floors, exterior walls, and roofs. They also struggled with 8d ringshank nails, which our local code requires for exterior sheathing and
shear walls. Having to drive home half of the protruding nails with a
hammer sort of defeats the purpose of using a nail gun.
The nosepiece of all these guns needs to be depressed fully before
the trigger is pulled; they can’t be bump-fired by holding the trigger
Photo this page: Justin Fink. Drawing facing page: Dan Thornton.
Clever pinchand-pull depth
adjustment
PA S L O D E 9 0 0 4 2 0
The Paslode nailer is
slightly smaller and
lighter than the others,
and its plastic body
seems fairly tough. It has
a well-protected battery slot, and the reversible combination
belt-and-rafter-hook
is by far the best. The
pinch-and-pull depth of
drive works well despite the
nailer’s being unable to drive
some nails all the way.
Paslode’s nailer is the
only one to require that the
nail-feeder slide be pulled
back before the gun is loaded; this is hard to get
used to only when
switching between
guns. The Paslode
nailer never
jammed in two
months of hard
use, so I never
had to follow the manual’s disassembly instructions.
Paslode offers only one framing nailer, which shoots full
round-head nails collated at the
steeper angle of 30°, commonly
seen only with clipped-head
nails. Paslode achieves this feat
by offsetting the nail shanks to
the edge of the round heads.
The offset heads on these RounDrive nails still meet building
codes in areas where full round
heads are required, and Paslode
claims that the offset heads
test comparably with conventional centered heads in terms
of pullout strength. Paslode’s
RounDrive nails also fit into the
clipped-head guns made by
other manufacturers.
The paper collation on
the RounDrive nails is
an improvement over
other round-head racks;
it produces less flying
plastic. Initially, I was
concerned about the
durability of paper
collation. The racks
of nails needed for
my old pneumatic
Paslode guns used to
soften and not feed properly
when exposed to moisture.
But I’ve tried soaking these
new nails in water, and they
seem to be unaffected.
Paslode pioneered the
technology that makes gaspowered nailers possible, and
the company’s 20-year head
start is evident. This gun is
the one I’d keep in the truck,
based on its design, its features, and its trouble-free
operation.
Offset round head
(35 nails)
www.paslode-cordless.com Price: $370
Weight: 7.4 lb. • Nail type: proprietary RounDrive, or clipped head • Nail size: 2 in. to 31⁄4 in.
Collation: 30°, paper tape • Capacity: 48 nails
The ins and outs of a gas-powered nailer
How it works: Gas-powered nail guns work on the
same principle as a combustion engine; gas from a
fuel cylinder fills a combustion chamber and is ignited
to create a contained explosion, which then drives a
piston forward to shoot the nail.
Cutaway
Spark plug
Incoming fuel
Fan
Combustion
chamber
Drive piston
www.finehomebuilding.com
Clipped head
(37 nails)
What it shoots: Paslode nailers use proprietary offset-head
nails, called RounDrives (photo above right). Max, Hitachi, and
Powers offer two nailers each: one for round-head nails and one
for clipped-head nails. The shallow angle (roughly 20°) and
widely spaced collation of round-head nails are necessary
to fit the fasteners side by side, but result in fewer nails
per rack. Clipped-head nails are collated more closely
together and at a steeper angle (roughly 35°),
making them more compact. If nail sizes are
equal, a clipped-head rack will have about
10% to 20% more nails than a round-head
rack. Some building codes require the use of full
round-head nails (Paslode’s offset round heads are
acceptable), but otherwise, I would choose a clippedhead nailer for its extra capacity, even though the tools
can be more expensive.
Round head
(25 nails)
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
57
and pressing the nosepiece against the work. This safety feature is
good, but it definitely slows down the work. To make things worse,
all the guns have the same two-stage nosepiece action: The first step
turns on the fan, and the second releases the safety. The pressure required to press the nosepiece fully can be awkward, especially when
reaching at arm’s length.
All the cordless nailers use straight collated nails, presumably
because the fuel-cell technology needed to advance coil nails hasn’t
been developed yet. I gave up my pneumatic stick nailers long ago
in favor of coil nailers because coil nailers hold five times as many
nails (200 8ds in a coil vs. about 40 in a stick). When I’m nailing off
plywood, stick guns need to be reloaded two or three times per sheet.
Also, all stick nailers—pneumatics included—tend to misfire a lot
more than coil nailers, and they blow plastic shrapnel all over the
place. The occasional misfire is no big deal, but when you’re straining every muscle to hold something on layout with one hand, it’s not
something you want to worry about.
These nailers all are lightweight plastic-bodied tools. You can’t use
them to thump things into place the way I’ve been doing with my
alloy-bodied pneumatic nailers all these years. Also, I suspect they
won’t do as well when they inevitably fall from a high place, especially
because they don’t have a hose to break their fall.
Battery power and cost of use
All these guns came supplied with only one battery. I initially thought
that this was a liability because any other cordless tool is just about
worthless for professional use if it doesn’t have a backup battery
to use while the first recharges. Manufacturers say that you can
drive approximately 4000 nails on one battery charge. We didn’t
count, but I can say that a fully charged battery lasted all day most
of the time, no matter how hard the gun was working. The only
time that I had trouble was when I forgot to put a battery in the charger overnight.
Battery cycle life shouldn’t be a problem, either. These batteries are
low voltage (6v for the Max, Powers, and Paslode models; 7.2v for
the Hitachi models). My experience with other tools has been that
this type of battery recharges many hundreds of times, as opposed to
higher-voltage batteries, which need more frequent replacement.
Every nailer except the Hitachi came with a battery charger
consisting of a transformer connected to a battery holder with a
length of 22-ga. wire. These contraptions reminded me of cellphone chargers designed for home use; I don’t have much faith
in their long-term survival on job sites. When I questioned the
cordless-product manager from Paslode about this, he told me they
use this type of charger because they can offer a 12v vehicle plug-in
option. I didn’t get to try that out, but it sounds like it might be a
handy option.
Fuel-cell life wasn’t a big issue. A hardworking carpenter might
use two or three $10 fuel cells in a long day; in an area where labor
costs are between $20 and $50 per hour, this is not a significant part
of the financial picture. Manufacturers claim that fuel cells fire about
1200 nails before needing replacement. We tried to quantify the
actual number of nails driven, but decided that there were too many
variables to control and that the results wouldn’t be that crucial. :
John Spier is a builder on Block Island, R.I. Photos by Krysta S.
Doerfler, except where noted.
58
FINE HOMEBUILDING
H I TA C H I www.hitachipowertools.com
NR90GR
Price: $320
NR90GC
Price: $380
M A X www.maxusacorp.com
GS683RH
Price: $395
GS683CH
Price: $365
P O W E R S www.powers.com
Trak-it
W3-21FRH
Price: $330
Trak-it
W3-34CDH
Price: $310
Fuel-cell photo, facing page: Courtesy of Powers
Like many other Hitachi
tools, the round-head nailer
has a comfortable grip,
especially for smaller hands.
The fuel-cell loading door is
designed nicely, with a simple
sliding latch that doesn’t
require finesse to open or
close. Hitachi is also the only
manufacturer to supply a onepiece, one-hour battery charger (charge time is 2 hours for the
Paslode, 21⁄2 hours for the Max and
the Powers nailers).
After these few positive points,
both of the Hitachi nailers go
downhill fast. They have the least
power of all the guns, so we had
The Max nailers
have some redeeming features. The
depth-of-drive adjustment was fast and easy,
and required no tools;
it worked well within
each model’s power
limitations. The reversible rafter/belt hook is
effective. The spurred
nosepiece is heavier duty than
that on the Hitachi and Paslode
models; after a few months of
use, it was still sharp, where
the others were rounded over
and dull. The Max round-head
Close inspection
of the Powers
gun was the
only one that
jammed during
testing, and it
wasn’t much
Thumbwheel
depth
fun to fix. I had
adjustment
to remove the
three hex-head
screws holding
the magazine in
place and juggle
several small parts that can fall off
in the process before accessing the
jammed nails that still had to be
pried out. This happened twice, and
I couldn’t figure out why. I checked
the nails carefully to make sure I
Fuel-cell choices
round-head nailer
didn’t reveal any differences from the
Max models. Even
the carrying cases
came out of the same
mold; the only differences in appearance
that I could find were
the color scheme and
stickers. But several of my
crew members thought that the
Powers gun had more power, so
to speak.
www.finehomebuilding.com
to use a hammer
to set a lot of nails.
The depth-of-drive
setting—which
Easy- requires an Allen
open wrench—worked but
fuelwas often pointless
cell
door
because the nails
weren’t set to begin
with. The nonreversible belt/rafter
hook is on the right-hand side
of the nailer. That’s fine for a
left-handed carpenter, but for
a righty like me, this placement
falls firmly into the “What were
they thinking?” department. And
to top it all off, the Hitachi nail-
Because Powers
makes a few different gas-powered
fastening tools, they
have a few different
sizes of fuel cells. The
wood-framing nailers
shown here typically
are powered by red-
capped fuel cells, but
if you run out, you can
use blue-capped (concrete nailer) cells and keep working.
Company reps claim there is no
difference in performance between
the two cells. We also discovered
ers misfired more often than all
the other guns combined.
Although the clipped-head
model is slightly lighter and
more compact than its roundhead sibling, I found it much
less comfortable to use. Hours
of repetitive plywood nailing
opened a sore on my thumb
from pressing the clipped-head
nailer against
the sheathing.
This gun was
the one that
finally drove me
to switch back
Troublesome to my pneuhook
matic nailers.
hadn’t misloaded the gun, and I
hadn’t hit anything very hard.
Like Hitachi and Powers, Max
makes one gun for round-head
nails and one gun for clippedhead nails. Unlike the Hitachi,
though, the Max clipped-head
nailer was comfortable to use.
The differences in the handling
configuration were subtle but
significant. Also, I initially had
trouble getting the round-head
nailer to fire. I finally figured out
that the battery was defective
and would not take a charge.
Fortunately, I was able to test
both nailers using one battery.
SPECIFICATIONS
Hitachi NR90GR
full round head
Weight: 7.9 lb.
Nail size: up to 31⁄2 in.
Collation: 20°, plastic
Capacity: 42 nails
Hitachi NR90GC
clipped head
Weight: 7.7 lb.
Nail size: up to 31⁄2 in.
Collation: 33°, paper
Capacity: 47 nails
Max GS683RH
full round head
Weight: 7.8 lb.
Nail size: up to 31⁄4 in.
Collation: 21°, plastic
or paper
Capacity: 32 nails
Max GS683CH
clipped head
Weight: 7.8 lb.
Nail size: up to 31⁄4 in.
Collation: 34°, paper
Capacity: 40 nails
that the Powers nailer could use
Paslode fuel cells and Hitachi
nails. A Powers sales rep confirmed this, a refreshing change
from all those tool manuals that
threaten you if you don’t use
the manufacturer’s own proprietary accessories.
The Powers round-head nailer
was the only one that got an
inadvertent drop test, from the
top of an 8-ft.-tall stepladder.
Nothing broke, and it still worked
fine afterward. Powers also makes
a clipped-head nailer, but it was
not available for this review.
Powers W3-21FRH
full round head
Weight: 7.8 lb.
Nail size: up to 31⁄4 in.
Collation: 20° to 22°, plastic
Capacity: 32 nails
Powers W3-34CDH
clipped head
Weight: 7.8 lb.
Nail size: up to 31⁄4 in.
Collation: 34°, paper tape
Capacity: 40 nails
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
59
Installing Replacement
Windows
Measure, insulate, and caulk.
Do it right, and cut your energy bill by 25%.
the interior and exterior trim to
be removed and then reinstalled
or replaced.
Finally, I didn’t want to disturb the homeowners. Pocket
windows are quick to install
and create little mess inside or
outside. On average, working
alone, I can install one in less
than 30 minutes. So I’d be in
the house for only a day with no
major mess to clean up.
BY MIKE GUERTIN
W
indows wear
out before a
house does.
Sometimes
the need for replacement windows is obvious, like when you
encounter poorly functioning
single-pane sashes with weights.
But even windows with insulated
glass become difficult to operate,
suffer from damaged seals, or
show signs of deterioration. The
good news is that replacement
windows do away with these
problems, offering improved
appearance, easier operation,
and greater levels of energy
efficiency. A whole-house window replacement can cut heating and cooling costs by as much
as 25%.
Full-service replacementwindow fabricators measure,
make, and install new windows,
On my first job, I asked a local
company’s sales rep to show me
the measurement and installation process. I learned that
replacement windows are easy
to order and fast to install. I also
discovered that I could save
money by installing the windows myself.
Evaluate existing windows
The installation pictured here
took place in a modest Cape
60
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Choosing the right
windows is challenging
Cod-style house that still had
is original single-glazed, sashweighted windows—a perfect
candidate for replacement windows. I chose frame-and-sash
replacement windows (also
known as pocket windows)
because the house’s window
jambs, sills, and trim were solid,
and its siding was in good con-
dition. Had the window frames
been rotted or the siding in need
of replacement, I would have
had to install new-construction
windows using the old rough
openings. Also, the budget
didn’t allow for the extra labor to
tackle full window replacement,
which would have required the
siding to be stripped back, and
In my area, I can order from
more than a dozen replacementwindow fabricators. Some manufacturers are national, some
are regional, and a couple of the
local fabricators have shops near
where I work.
I advise shopping around, but
be certain you’re comparing
equal products and services.
Some companies’ standard features are options that cost more
from other fabricators. Framematerial thickness and extrusion
designs can differ. Bargain windows could have lower-quality
frames that require more time
to shim and brace adequately for
proper operation.
If I have a choice, I use highquality vinyl windows made
locally. Although they might not
be a popular name brand my clients recognize, the warranty is
good (20 years), and the price
Drawings: Bob La Pointe
RemOve the Old WIndOW,
and PReP the OPenIng
Once I’ve checked to make sure the windows I ordered
fit in the opening, I lay down a drop cloth to catch paint
chips, which could contain lead. Stripping out old window sashes is easy, but I still work carefully because the
windows can be fragile and the glass can break easily. I’d
rather spend extra time in preparation than on cleanup.
1
Remove sash stops.
Cut the paint at the
jamb joint with a utility knife; then drive a
stiff paint scraper into
the joint to pry off the
stops. Be careful not to
damage anything
because the sash
stops will be reused.
Outside blind stop
Jamb
Parting bead
Inside sash stop
For the width,
measure jamb to jamb.
Measure thrice to
avoid ordering twice
L
L
L
Use the shortest of three
horizontal measurements.
1
Use the shortest of three
vertical measurements.
2
Carefully remove
the sashes. Swing
the inside sash out of
the window opening,
and cut the counterweight cords to free
the sash. Remove the
small parting bead
between the sashes,
and take out the outer
sash the same way.
Double-check for square
by measuring the diagonal.
2
4
3
3
For the height, measure from
where the sash rests on the sill
up to the head or top jamb. See
“Accurate measurements are
critical,” p. 62.
www.finehomebuilding.com
Remove the
weights. Open the
counterweight doors
to remove the weights
and cords; then unscrew
the pulleys and remove
them. Some installation
guides suggest hammering the old pulleys into
the jamb, but I disagree.
The pulley holes make
good view spots when
installing insulation.
4
Insulate the cavity.
Use an old parting
bead to slide strips of
batt insulation into the
cavity. Don’t overstuff
the cavity, or you’ll
reduce the insulation’s
R-value. Replace the
counterweight doors,
and scrape loose paint
from the jamb and
stops. Prime any bare
wood on the jamb and
sill to protect it from rot.
february/march 2007
61
is reasonable. To reduce order
errors, I purchase direct from the
fabricator rather than through a
dealer. A sales rep can help to
measure orders and handle service issues. The windows cost a
little more than those available
through a national retailer, but
there are few, if any, callbacks for
operation, glass, or performance
problems. If problems arise, I
have someone local to call.
Accurate measurements
are critical
I always take measurements
myself, and if the sales rep
comes out to help, I check that
person’s work. Even though I do
a little more work, I know that
the information is right. The
last thing I want is to show up
for work on the morning of a
whole-house window replacement and find out that someone
else messed up the order.
The most important thing
about measuring is checking
multiple spots: top, bottom, middle, and diagonally for square.
The new window has to be
sized for the shortest measurement (drawing p. 61). I use a systematic approach with my own
order sheet to note dimensions
and window location. Writing
down measurements on a block
of wood just doesn’t cut it. One
wrong measurement, and you
own a perfectly good window
that doesn’t fit.
Know how the windows
are sized
Replacement-window fabricators manufacture units on a 1⁄4-in.
basis, a 1⁄2-in. basis, or a combination of the two. This guideline forces you to order a unit
smaller than anticipated when
a dimension falls on a 1 ⁄ 8-in.
increment, but undersizing a
window is better than having
it too tight. Window height is
more forgiving than width due
to the sill and head expanders,
which is why many fabricators
62
FINE HOMEBUILDING
offer 1⁄4-in. width sizing and only
1⁄2-in. height sizing. If I have to
make a choice of leaving only
1⁄8 in. of wiggle room or having
5⁄ 8 in. to play with, I’ll take the
bigger measurement.
Some window fabricators take
orders based on opening measurements, and they make the
deductions to actual unit size
from information you supply.
I never order this way because
it does not account for out-ofsquare conditions. Make your
own deductions from the measured opening, and order the
actual window size (sometimes
called tip-to-tip size).
Guarantee a smooth
installation
First, I keep my starting location flexible to accommodate the
homeowner’s schedule. Wherever I start, I move the furniture
out of the way for clear access
to the window, and I cover the
floor with a drop cloth to collect
paint chips and debris. I always
bring a vacuum and a dust brush
to clean out the windowsill and
to clean up the floor when I’m
done working.
:
Fine Homebuilding contributing editor Mike Guertin
(www.mikeguertin.com) is a
builder, remodeling contractor, and writer in East Greenwich, R.I. Photos by Daniel
S. Morrison.
install tHe new winDow witH
Different manufacturers have different details for securing
and weathersealing their windows. However, they all have
a sill expander of some type at the top and bottom, and
rely on screws to secure the frame to the jamb.
1
Install the bottom
sill expander. I use
a Speed Square to make
a level reference line so
that I can measure how
much the sill slopes. I
then can use a utility
knife to cut the bottom sill expander to fit
snugly against the sill.
Tap the expander into
the window frame with
the butt of a hammer
handle.
2
Install the head
expander. If the
replacement window
doesn’t overlap the
head stop, you need to
add the head expander
that fits over the top of
the window and fill the
airspace with lowexpanding foam or
fiberglass insulation.
Get maximum value witH a GooD weatHerseal
If I’ve spent the money, time, and effort to replace a window, I want to get the best performance I possibly can. Proper weathersealing calls for spray foam and caulk.
Foam the
gaps. Use
low-expanding
foam to fill
gaps between
the old jamb
and the new
window.
Caulk the stops.
Apply exterior caulk
to the blind stop
before installing the
window; then caulk
all the exterior trim
joints.
expAnDeRS, SHIMS, AnD SCReWS
2
Replacement windows
offer all the features of
new construction
The same manufacturers that make
windows for new construction also
make replacement windows. In
addition to the factors listed below,
you’ll need to consider cost and
warranty details.
The head
expander fits
against the
head jamb.
Style: Double-hung, single-hung,
casement, awning, and other
window styles are available.
Glass: Choose between different
Partially driven
screws secure
the window for
centering.
types of insulated glass, including
glass with heat-reflective coatings
and gas-filled glass. You also can
order windows with snap-in grilles
or true divided lites.
3
3
Insert and center the window. Drive two mounting
screws partway through the window frame and into the
jambs to keep the window in place. Then use a small pry bar
to get the frame centered, level, and plumb.
Material: The type of material
used in the window determines
its price, its durability, and its
appearance. Here’s a quick tour:
Vinyl
Mounting
screws in
the window
frame are used
for the final
adjustment.
L
Usually less expensive than
other types
L
Durable, low maintenance
L
Limited color choice
Wood
4
L
Requires painting
L
Compatible with historic houses
Fiberglass
4
Secure the window. Insert shims between the window
and the jamb as backing for mounting screws. Drive
mounting screws in all the pilot holes. Sometimes these holes
are concealed by sash stops or balance guards that can be slid
out of the way or removed.
5
The bottom sill
expander is cut
to fit against
the sloping sill.
1
5
The inside
sash stop
is removed
and reused
as molding
around the
new window.
Replace the
sash stops.
The payoff for
removing the old
stops carefully is
that they can be
reused to finish
the new window.
Before installing
the stops, I fill
gaps between
the window and
the jamb with
low-expanding
foam, part of the
weathersealing
process (sidebar
facing page).
L
Stronger than vinyl and just
as durable
L
Available with wood interior
surfaces
L
Low maintenance
L
Usually more expensive than
other types
Aluminum-clad
L
Durable exterior, wood interior
L
Many colors available
L
Aluminum can be painted
MoRe Info
Fine Homebuilding’s article “Get
the Right Replacement Windows”
(FHB #166, pp. 52-57) contains
lots of helpful information about
the factors to consider when
buying windows. You’ll also
find detailed information at the
following Web sites:
www.nfrc.org
www.efficientwindows.org
www.eere.energy.gov/consumer
www.finehomebuilding.com
february/march 2007
63
SPECIAL REPORT
Green
Really Mean?
What Does
Rising energy costs, climate change, and a new social conscience
are complicating the way we build
BY SCOTT GIBSON
D
avid Gottfried is putting his
money where his mouth is.
The Berkeley, Calif., building
consultant and founder of the
U.S. Green Building Council (www.usgbc
.org) is downsizing, swapping his 2600-sq.-ft.
house for one half its size. His two children
will share a single bedroom with bunk beds.
He’s leaving behind a home office, playground equipment in the yard, and a dedicated guest room. Gottfried doesn’t view it
as much of a sacrifice. Instead, it’s completely
logical for someone who has been beating
the drum for smaller, more energy-efficient
houses that waste fewer resources and keep
their owners healthy and comfortable.
p. 68
p. 70
p. 67
p. 65
That, basically, is what the green-building
movement is about. And in an industry that
is painfully slow to change, green building
seems to be gaining momentum with surprising speed. By the end of 2007, the National
Association of Home Builders (NAHB)
expects that more than half its members will
be calling themselves green builders.
A combination of public and private initiatives is part of the reason. “And beyond all
that,” Gottfried says, “there’s the market.
“Consumers are starting to get interested,
and the bigger picture encompasses climate
change, overburdened landfills, increasing
energy costs, water scarcity, and diminishing
air quality. Connect all those dots, and you
can see a huge potential, not just in the U.S.
but globally.”
Just what is “green” building?
Dozens of local and regional programs across
the country set minimum standards for winning a green label. NAHB has a set of voluntary guidelines, and the Green Building
Council is in the process of rolling out a residential version of its successful program for
commercial buildings. On the other hand,
some states have no formal green-building
initiatives, while others have allowed their
green-building organizations to lapse.
Given this patchwork of sometimes conflicting guidelines, a “green” label has no sin-
p. 69
FIVE HOUSES
PROVIDE A GREEN SNAPSHOT
To illustrate the range of green practices going on around the country, we have included
case studies from various regions. Each has its own unique design features and shows
some of the diversity being used by architects and builders who are going green.
64
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Drawing: Chuck Lockhart. Blueprint photo: Krysta S. Doerfler. Photo facing page: Connie Moberly.
DETAILS
• Size and layout: 3527 sq. ft.;
4 bedrooms, 31⁄ 2 baths
• Location: Austin, Texas
1
A
BUNGALOW
FINDS SHADE IN TEXAS
Classic style and detailing can come in
an energy-efficient package
• Cost per sq. ft.: $165
• Architect: Barley + Pfeiffer
Architects
• Builder: Evans Design and
Construction
What makes
it
green
• Original house on infill lot was
dismantled and reused by
Habitat for Humanity.
• Windows and roof overhangs
designed for maximum summer
shading, winter solar gain, and
ample natural light.
gle meaning. Still, several common themes
run through most established programs:
v Site work that minimizes the environmental impact of the house during
and after construction.
v Energy efficiency.
v Water efficiency.
v Use of recycled materials and materials
whose production can be sustained
without harming people or the
environment.
v Healthful indoor-air quality.
Depending on the region’s climate and
other local conditions, different programs
might assign different values to each of these
www.finehomebuilding.com
categories. Or they might weigh additional
factors, such as a house’s proximity to public
transportation or basic community services
so that occupants don’t have to drive a car to
work or to the grocery store.
Yet plenty of room exists for differences
of opinion. Some building products, for
example, might be considered green because
they are durable and help a house to last longer. But they might have to be shipped long
distances, consuming lots of energy in the
process, or they might produce hazardous
by-products when they are manufactured or
when they are thrown away or incinerated.
“There are a number of things that get sustainable stamps, but then you look at where
it’s supplied from,” says Keith Moskow, an
architect in Boston. “If you’re supplying a
• Reduced cooling load, thanks to
a vented, radiant-barrier roof
insulated with open-cell foam.
• Floor trusses, engineered structural beams, finger-jointed studs.
• Wood/plastic composite exterior
trim, fiber-cement siding.
• Programmable thermostats,
sealed sheet-metal ducts.
• Cooling-tower-enhanced airconditioning achieves higher
efficiency than conventional
equipment.
• Positive pressurization of house
reduces air infiltration.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
65
job from Oregon and they’re shipping across
country, you start to wonder, ‘Wait a second.
Big picture, does that make sense?’ ”
In a country with an appetite for big houses,
square footage is another fundamental issue
to be settled. Can a 5000-sq.-ft. house built
to the strictest possible green standards but
only for two people ever really be green? It
depends on whom you ask.
Some differences are inevitable, and despite
ample grounds for confusion, builders, architects, and consultants often describe green
building simply as good building.
“A lot of it isn’t just fancy products,” says
Gottfried. “It’s the good design fundamentals
that we used to have. When we used to build
in a hot area, we made homes that were solid
with good thermal mass. We had awnings
and overhangs and front porches that were
shaded. We had cross-ventilation. There
are so many things you can do without even
looking at mechanical systems for cooling.
We used to know all those things.”
A tight building envelope and low
energy consumption are key goals
Most climate scientists now believe that the
carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere
when fossil fuels are burned is contributing
to global climate change. At the same time,
buildings consume a lot of energy—$305
billion worth in the United States in 2003
alone—even while resources are finite.
For both of those reasons, reducing the
amount of energy that dwellings consume is
among the most important goals of
green building. A number of programs use the federal government’s
DETAILS
Energy Star rating system as a
• Size and layout
starting point. Some builders and
(Cypress model):
designers, however, look for much
2845 sq. ft.; 5 bedmore dramatic savings. They
rooms, 3 baths
employ photovoltaic panels, wind
generators, and active solar systems
• Location: Loveland,
to produce zero-energy houses,
Colo.
those that make as much energy as
• Cost per sq. ft.: $98
they consume.
• Architect/builder:
Cutting energy consumption usuAspen Homes of
ally involves a number of strategies,
Colorado
from building a superinsulated, airtight building envelope to selecting
the most-efficient windows, heating system, and appliances. There
is no single approach.
Alex Wilson, executive editor of Environmental Building News (www.buildinggreen
.com), has been reporting on the greenbuilding movement for two decades. He suggests that the best approach is to bring in a
variety of experts at the start of a building
project. In his new book on green building,
Your Green Home (New Society Publishers,
2006; $17.95), Wilson explains this “integrated
design” approach with the justification that
long-term savings will more than offset any
initial added expense.
By way of example, he suggests that
investing in superinsulated walls and highperformance windows and incorporating
passive-solar design could make it possible
MEASURING A PRODUCT’S
G R E E N VA L U E
How green is oriented strand board? A life-cycle analysis or
assessment, represented in the flowchart below, shows how
complicated the green equation can be when you factor in the
energy and resources that are consumed throughout OSB’s
Oxygen
Carbon
dioxide
to growing
trees
A GREEN
IS NOT EASY
service life. For example, OSB gets greener when
manufacturing energy comes from renewable resources and
when a load of panels doesn’t need to travel far from plant
to job site.
Emissions to air, water, and land
OSB into
housing
construction
OSB
manufacturing
Trees
Fuel for
harvesting logs
2
Fuel for log
transportation
Fuel,
electricity,
resin, wax, and
water
Fuel for OSB
transportation
Landfill
Housing
deconstruction
or demolition
Nails
and electricity
Electricity
and fuel
Fuel for
transportation
Reuse, recycle,
or fuel
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FINE HOMEBUILDING
Drawing: Chuck Lockhart; concept: Jim Wilson, CORRIM Inc. Photos: Courtesy of Aspen Homes.
DEVELOPMENT
TAKES ROOT IN COLORADO
Economical spec housing that comes with a written energy guarantee
“I think of a green-built
home the same way I think
about cars. We don’t manufacture the same car we did
25 years ago, so why would
we build homes the same
way we did 25 years ago?
A green-built home will
What makes it
green
• Centrally located, highefficiency furnace with
energy-recovery ventilation and whole-house
filtered-air system.
• High-performance windows, tankless water
heater, and Energy Star
appliances.
more comfortable for the
• Low-VOC paints and
water-based finishes.
• Extensive air-sealing and
passive radon mitigation.
• Carpets made from
recycled plastic; wood
composite decking.
to skip a central-heating system altogether,
even in areas with a real winter.
“We need to shift our economies to a nonfossil-fuel base,” says Robert Riversong, a Vermont builder and a longtime advocate of
green building. Conventional residential construction, he says, suffers from the same energy
imbalance as modern agriculture: The system
invests 10 calories of petrochemical energy
to produce a single calorie of food energy. In
other words, it doesn’t make much sense.
Protecting the site and conserving
water are also central themes
Conservation and stewardship are recurring
themes that run through green-building
practices, and this sensibility extends natuwww.finehomebuilding.com
have lower utility bills, be
• Wood and cardboard
construction waste
recycled; off-road construction equipment
runs on biodiesel fuel.
rally to two other areas: the amount of water
that households consume and the building
site itself.
Good building practices would locate a
house away from any environmentally sensitive areas. Infill lots are especially attractive
to green builders because they reduce the
impact of building on prime land and
because they tend to keep occupants within
walking distance of neighborhood stores and
other services.
Other site objectives in green-building programs often include:
• Disturbing the smallest possible area
of the site.
• Limiting the amount of grass.
homeowner, and use fewer
resources during construction. Everyone wins when
you build green.”
—Rob Sabin, Aspen Homes
• Using trees to provide shade.
• Using permeable paving materials
to minimize water runoff.
• Orienting the house so that it takes the
best possible advantage of passivesolar heating potential.
Water conservation is an especially important goal in some parts of the country, notably
the far West, where drought is becoming a
way of life. NAHB says that mean per-capita
indoor daily water use is now about 64 gallons
but could be lowered to less than 45 gallons in
a green home. Conservation measures might
include rainwater collection, “gray-water”
systems that reuse water from showering and
washing dishes or clothes, high-efficiency
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
67
w
3
A GREEN PREFAB CAN GO ANYWHERE
The Glidehouse is a prototype for a new family
of well-designed factory-made houses
DETAILS
• Size and layout: 1566 sq. ft.;
3 bedrooms, 21⁄ 2 baths
“On hot days, we keep the house cool by opening the
windows and doors to create a cross-breeze. When it’s
cold outside, we simply open the sunshades to let the
sunlight in and warm the rooms. This alone has substantially decreased the amount of money we spend on
utility bills.” —Michelle Kaufmann, architect
irrigation systems, low-flow fixtures, and
plumbing that minimizes hot-water waste.
Water is precious in Frisco, Texas, a city of
88,000 located 25 miles north of Dallas. Frisco’s
mandatory green-building guidelines include
a number of water-conservation measures,
such as a “drought-tolerant” landscaping
option, mulching, and zoned irrigation systems. If a house doesn’t pass, the builder
doesn’t get a certificate of occupancy.
Keeping indoor air healthful and
choosing “green” materials
Energy-efficient houses are sealed tightly.
But tightly sealed houses can trap a variety of
contaminants, including the chemicals found
in adhesives, carpets, furniture, and building
materials. The contaminants can end up creating some pretty lousy indoor-air quality.
That, in turn, can be a contributor to health
problems such as asthma and allergies.
As with energy conservation, improving
indoor-air quality amounts to a number
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FINE HOMEBUILDING
of interconnected steps. The aim is to keep
an adequate amount of fresh air coming
into the house and to limit exposure to noxious chemicals.
Guidelines often recommend closed combustion appliances, which draw combustion air from outside a building; bathrooms
equipped with ventilation fans that can be
operated with automatic timers or humiditysensing switches; kitchen ranges vented to
the outside; and whole-house ventilation systems equipped with energy-recovery ventilation equipment that reduces energy loss.
But relying on mechanical equipment to
keep air moving doesn’t appeal to all green
builders. Riversong, for instance, has been
critical of one highly efficient house in Vermont (featured in FHB #161, pp. 74-79)
because it’s “a box that is hermetically sealed
so that it cannot breathe without artificial
respiration.” He adds: “And, of course, artificial respiration works only when power
is not disrupted, which happens with some
• Location: Northern
California
• Cost per sq. ft.: $250
• Architect: Michelle Kaufmann
Designs
• Builder: Cullen Woodworking
(other Glidehouse models are
built by various factories)
regularity in rural Vermont.” He’d prefer
designs relying on passive ventilation.
Indoor-air quality can be improved by
choosing building materials and furnishings
that don’t off-gas volatile organic compounds
(VOCs) and by keeping the garage separated
from living spaces to limit exposure to autoemission toxins.
Choosing building materials that either can
be produced sustainably or are good for buildings and occupants is a related, and sometimes contentious, part of green building.
Recycled, locally harvested, and salvaged
materials all are favored, as well as simply
using fewer materials to begin with (in other
words, making houses only as big as they
really need to be).
Any discussion of green materials, however, can become complicated. For example,
structural insulated panels (SIPs) are effective thermal insulators, and their orientedstrand-board skins make good use of easily
replenished wood. That’s good. But they are
Top photo: John Swain Photography; small prefab photos: courtesy of Michelle Kaufmann Designs. Photo facing page, bottom: Paul Warchal.
What makes
it
green
• Walls finished with nontoxic paints; reclaimed-wood or bamboo floors.
• Formaldehyde-free kitchen cabinets and energy-efficient appliances.
• On-demand water heaters, dual-flush toilets, and bathroom
countertops made with recycled paper.
• Solar-friendly design with operable windows to maximize
cross-ventilation in all major rooms.
• Off-site construction means efficient use of materials with little
waste and less environmental impact on home site.
• Tight building envelope insulated
with open-cell foam. All wood-towood framing joints are caulked.
• Mechanically ventilated with air-toair heat-recovery ventilator and highefficiency air filtration.
A
TOWN HOUSE DIGS DEEP FOR HEAT IN NEW YORK CITY
4
Green goes metro, high end, and super
energy-efficient
What makes
it
green
• Geothermal heat pump is 75% more
efficient than conventional heating and
cooling system.
• Nontoxic finishes; formaldehyde-free
cabinetry and flooring.
• No vinyl products.
• Insulating concrete forms for concrete walls.
• High-efficiency air-ventilation system
removes pollen, mold, and particulates.
A geothermal
heat pump
reaches down
1100 ft., nearly
as deep as the
Empire State
Building is high.
DETAILS
• Size and layout: 6500 sq. ft. over
seven levels; 4 bedrooms, 4 baths, plus
ground-floor home office with powder
room and pantry
• Location: New York City
• Cost per sq. ft.: Unavailable
• Architect: Studio Petrarca
• Builder: Wildman & Bernhardt
www.finehomebuilding.com
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
69
5
A
MOUNTAIN RANCH SOAKS UP THE SUN IN NEVADA
Virtual energy
independence happens
even in a rigorous climate
“During last winter’s blizzards, neighbors called wondering why Suzanne’s
power was on when theirs wasn’t.
The conversation would turn to
energy bills, which for most homes at
Job’s Peak approach $1000-plus per
month, while hers are nearly nothing
on an annually averaged basis.”
—David Arkin, architect
filled with foam insulation derived from petrochemicals. Not so good.
In the end, focusing too much on materials can overshadow more-important factors,
such as energy conservation or indoor-air
quality. A house built totally with recycled
materials still can be an energy hog.
Who decides when it’s green?
After its creation in 1993, the U.S. Green
Building Council launched Leadership in
Energy and Environmental Design (LEED),
a green-building rating system for commercial buildings. It remains a centerpiece of the
council’s efforts and soon will be augmented
by a similar residential program.
LEED buildings must meet a long list of
requirements to attain one of four levels of
certification. It has been highly successful for
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FINE HOMEBUILDING
commercial space. Organizers working on
the pilot program are hopeful it will have the
same impact on residential construction.
The LEED program awards points for various performance levels, materials selection,
energy use, and the like. One key feature is
what’s called third-party verification, meaning that the building must be vetted by a certified inspector with no ties to the builder.
Other green programs around the country allow the builder to use a checklist and
declare the house green with no outside
inspection. But to Gottfried and many others, third-party verification is essential.
“I would say it’s critical,” he says. “It’s one
thing to use a little checklist and say you did
it. It’s another thing to verify, third party, that
you did it, that you back up your claims and
document them.”
Making misleading claims about green
compliance (what the industry calls “greenwashing”) might lead to credibility problems
with a voluntary program as well as with
green building in general, according to Wilson.
“The green-building proponents need
to do some policing or some education to
ensure that there isn’t that confusion within
the marketplace and the potential for problems with credibility,” Wilson says.
Because programs vary so widely, buyers
should ask questions about a green designation:
What are the requirements for certification,
for example, and were any of them checked
by an outside inspector? Understanding
what went into the designation can be a big
help in deciding how much it really means.
“It’s like nutrition when we look at food
labels,” Gottfried says. “The first thing is
Photos: Edward Caldwell
What makes
it
green
• Roof-integrated photovoltaic panels with battery
backup.
• Gray-water system provides landscape irrigation.
• Extensive use of reclaimed wood, salvaged doors,
and interior windows.
• Timber-frame/straw-bale construction, fiber-cement
plank siding.
• Fly ash in concrete-floor slabs with water-based finish.
• Partially earth-sheltered with sod roof.
• Near-zero energy bills in 7500 heating degree day
climate, achieved through net metering.
DETAILS
• Size and layout: 3445 sq. ft. including guest house; 3 bedrooms, 3 baths
• Location: Gardnerville, Nev.
• Cost per sq. ft.: $350
• Architect: Arkin-Tilt Architects
• Builder: Rick Walters, SAGE Design/Build
getting the key information in the key categories, and then understanding if it’s 40%
fat, it’s bad for your health. That’s where we
are right now: trying to figure out the label,
and what is good, what is excellent.”
Does green building cost more?
Not everything about a green house is expensive, and some advocates say a green house
does not necessarily cost any more than a
conventional house. Others say there is a premium for green, with estimates ranging from
3% or 4% up to 10% to 15%. But advocates
also say it’s misleading to consider only the
initial cost of green materials or techniques.
“We really try to look at what’s called a lifecycle cost analysis,” says Ed Young, chief estimator for Canyon Construction in Oakland,
Calif. (sidebar p. 66).
www.finehomebuilding.com
Wilson’s book uses a comparison of water
heaters to illustrate the point. An indirect
water heater (which taps heat from a boiler
for domestic hot water) costs almost twice
as much initially as a conventional electric
heater ($600 vs. $350). But over 13 years, the
average life span of the electric appliance,
the indirect water heater saves more than
$2500 in operating costs. The same is true for
many other building components.
Young adds that the cost of green features
translates into a small bump in the mortgage
when amortized over the term of a 30-year
loan. And the upgrades result in lower operating costs, a net gain for the buyer.
In time, Gottfried believes that a verified
green house will be common, even required
by lenders and governments. That would
be better for both builders and homeowners
because better houses mean fewer complaints,
and better prospects for Planet Earth.
“It’s about quality,” he says. “It’s an ethic. It
hasn’t spread everywhere yet. It will. It has to.
Who doesn’t want fresh air and clean water?
Show me one person in the world.”
:
Scott Gibson is a contributing editor to
Fine Homebuilding. Ashley Pedersen, an
editorial intern at the magazine, contributed to the reporting for this article.
Online extra
For a list of green resources, including
associations, publications, and links to
certification programs, visit
www.finehomebuilding.com.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
71
Maximize
Pantry Storage
Replace shelves with shallow
drawers, and you can
stop diving deep to find the soup
By Rex AlexAndeR
T
he minute I walked into Judy and Carl Rawski’s home,
I could tell they were tidy people. Not a thing was out of
place. They both talked about how they had revamped
many of their kitchen-cabinet interiors to make them
more efficient but were stumped when it came to a closet they had
designed at the end of a cabinet run. Frustrated with the usual wire
shelving or boards resting on cleats, they were looking for lots of storage that was accessible, easy to clean, and attractive.
I like simplicity when designing a pantry, so I came up with the idea
of building a closet-size cabinet to eliminate wasted space. Shallow
drawers installed at various heights inside the cabinet would span the
opening and make stored items easy to reach.
Prepare the closet for the cabinet
I wanted to use all the available space in the closet but still have the
pullout shelving slide past the butt-hinged doors, even if they were
opened only 90°. This meant the cabinet sides would need to be about
11⁄2 in. inside the existing door jambs (drawing facing page). To inset
the cabinet, I used 2x2 blocking at the front and 2x4 blocking at the
back of the closet, which left enough room for a 32-in.-wide carcase.
I also installed blocking against the door’s head jamb so that the
cabinet’s head casing would match the sides. On the closet floor, I
attached 3⁄4-in. by 11⁄2-in. screw blocks perpendicular to the front edge,
followed by two 41⁄4-in.-tall base supports. Smaller blocks serve as
nailers for the side casings.
Cut the parts, finish, then assemble
The Rawskis’ kitchen cabinets have maple interiors, so I used maple
plywood for the pantry closet. After I cut the parts, I put a dado head
in my tablesaw and cut the tongue-and-rabbet joints for the carcase.
I finished all the parts before assembly. After taping off the areas
to be glued, I lightly sanded all the surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper, then applied a satin polyurethane with a fine-nap roller. Two
coats adequately protect the wood and give the surface a nice
sheen. The finish levels out perfectly, and roller marks disappear.
After removing the tape from the joints, I applied glue, clamped
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FINE HOMEBUILDING
together the pieces, and nailed the joints for insurance. Squaring up the
carcase was easy once the 1⁄4-in. plywood back was fastened in place.
Install and trim the unit
I mounted all the drawers with Blum 550-mm epoxy-coated drawer
slides (www.blum.com). They handle up to 100 lb., are easy to install,
and operate smoothly.
The carcase slid into place along the base supports and between
the blocking. I screwed the carcase to the blocking at the front and
back of the closet. Then I nailed quartersawn oak trim flush with
the inside edge of the cabinet; the trim floats on the outside edge for
expansion and contraction. Finally, I filled the nail holes in the trim
and installed the drawers onto the slides.
:
Rex Alexander is a cabinetmaker in Brethren, Mich. Photo by
Dietrich Floeter.
Drawings: Bob La Pointe
Oak face frame
⁄ -in. tongueand-rabbet joint
3 8
2x4 rear
blocking
fastened
through
back of
closet
⁄4-in. plywood
carcase with
1⁄4-in. plywood
back
3
Solid
blocking
installed on
the closet’s
interior
provides
nailing for
trim and
support for
the case.
11⁄ 2-in. by 41⁄4-in.
base support
100-lb. fullextension
drawer slide
a closeTful
of pullouTs
The simplest approach
was to build a plywood
cabinet, or box, that slid
into the closet. Tongueand-rabbet joints made
assembly of such a big
box easier because they
kept the corners aligned.
This same joint also can
be used on drawers
(sidebar below).
2x2 front
blocking
Oak kick-space trim
Existing closet
and door
Nailer
⁄ -in. by 11⁄ 2-in. screw block
34
Three drawer variations
Bottom pin
wider to hide
The drawers
drawer bottom
shown in the
photo on the
facing page
were built of
solid maple with
hand-cut dovetail
joints, which are
almost as laborintensive as they
are good-looking.
The scooped fronts were
cut with a bandsaw and sanded smooth.
The drawer bottoms were made of 1⁄ 2-in.
plywood glued into a 3 ⁄ 8-in. by 1⁄ 2-in. rabbet.
Dovetails
www.finehomebuilding.com
Tongue and
rabbet
I’ve used
this joint
on drawers
made
from 1⁄ 2-in.
Baltic-birch
plywood. It’s
easily cut with
a dado cutter in
a tablesaw. Rout
the rabbet for the
bottom after assembling the drawer
sides, front, and back.
Biscuits
The third
variation is
also made
from 1⁄ 2-in.
Baltic-birch
plywood,
but has
mitered
corners that
are joined with
O-size biscuits.
The biscuit joiner
must be kept square to the stock
when cutting, or the miter will
be offset.
february/march 2007
73
A Hillside Cabin’s
Unlikely Addition
A three-story tower solves steep site problems
by bringing the house to the cars
BY PARKER PLATT
M
y little corner of western North Carolina, Transylvania County, is known as
the land of waterfalls. Most people here
dream of a house with a waterfall view.
Susan and Fain were no exception. They bought a creekside cabin and promised a few of us from our architecture
firm a fried-chicken lunch if we would visit for a consultation. The bait worked. When we laid eyes on the
tiny getaway cabin, we were hooked. Clinging to the side
of a mountain and surrounded by decks, walks, bridges,
and stone walls, this cabin both charmed and sobered
us. Steep topography made the Appalachian-waterfall
dream house a serious design and building challenge.
Photo this page: Susan Threlkel. Drawings: Martha Garstang Hill.
Inventory the good and bad features
Our firm does 10 to 12 projects every year; 90% of them
are new houses. Whether we’re looking at a new site, a
renovation, or an addition, our first step is always the
same: Identify the good qualities, and protect them as
much as possible. We prefer to add only what is needed,
and try to do that in a way to complement the original
qualities. Conversely, we disrupt as little as possible.
Susan and Fain’s cabin had living, dining, and kitchen
space; two small bedrooms; and one bathroom all packed
into one level. The real amenity was the house’s assortment of decks, bridges, walks, and stonework. All these
qualities worked together to make a charming weekendgetaway cabin focused on outdoor living.
For comfortable year-round family living, though, the
cabin’s limitations began with space issues; there wasn’t
enough room. Ceilings were low, rooms were small and
chopped up, and interior spaces were dark, with no
Before
The original cabin consisted of a single level.
Vertical plan has
plenty of rooms
with a view
Bedroom
Although its footprint
is compact, this tower
provides ample room
for a master suite on
each of the two lower
floors. Oversize stair
landings add enough
space for an office and
a reading nook. The
third floor has an open
plan, allowing rooms
to spill over as needed
while providing a nicely
framed view from
almost anywhere.
Family room
Screened
porch
Pantry
H
Dn
Living room F
G
Elevator
Third floor
W/D
B
Closet
Closet
Bedrooms: 4
D
Bathrooms: 3
Size: 940 sq. ft. (existing);
2113 sq. ft. added; 3053
sq. ft. total
Cost: N/A
Dn
Bedroom
Office
Second floor
Completed: 2002
Elevator
Location: Brevard, N.C.
Closet
Builder: Bronco
Construction
Photos taken at
lettered positions.
First floor
Closet
North
8 ft.
Storage
Up
Bedroom
0 2 4
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Reading
nook
I E
Architect: Platt
Architecture
A great site deserves a great house. The original cabin
(top photo) had extensive decks and stonework, but also
a couple of drawbacks. Going from the car to the kitchen
demanded a 90-ft. trek, and waterfall views were nonexistent. A tower solution improved access to the house
and exploited the potential for dramatic views. Photo left
taken at A on floor plan; photo above taken at B.
Kitchen
Dining room
A
SPECS
Bedroom
C
Foyer
Entry
Elevator
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
75
Steep topography such as this presents
a serious design and building challenge.
So convenient, even the dog
rides it. A residential elevator
makes a three-story trek with
groceries or furniture manageable. The stained-glass pine tree
looked enough like an arrow to
warrant widening this salvaged
door to fit the opening. Photo
taken at C on floor plan.
The stairs are a destination, too. By deepening the stair landings a
few feet, we gained a
small but useful area
between floors. The
addition contains two
such spaces. One serves
as an office; the other is
a reading nook. Inset
photos taken at D and E
respectively on floor
plan. (Photo right taken
at B.)
76
FINE HOMEBUILDING
New Existing
Mechanicals;
air-conditioning
Crawlspace
Fill
Don’t just push against the hill, stabilize it
Elevator
Entry
First floor
Soil nails
⁄ -in. rebar grid
(4-in. by 4-in. sections)
12
Rather than building a retaining wall to fight the hill’s
tendency to creep downward, we reinforced it with
soil nails and a steel-reinforced concrete shell sprayed
on the surface of the
excavation. We excavated
and soil-nailed in three
sections, about 5 ft. each
time, starting at the top.
The whole process took
about 10 days and cost
about $35,000.
Wire mesh
Six-inch-deep
5000-psi concrete
is extremely
strong and water
resistant.
Tightened nuts embed
an 8-in. steel plate into
freshly sprayed concrete.
More concrete is sprayed
on to cover the hardware.
impressive views of the waterfall. None. Finally, accessibility was terrible: The cabin was a 90-ft. walk and a
25-ft. climb from the parking area.
Bring the cabin to the cars
When building on steep slopes in the mountains, it is
often best to think about the car first. You have to get the
homeowners’ and guests’ cars off the road, with sufficient
room to park, turn around, and get back on the road. All
over the mountains, there are houses that people don’t
like to visit after dark because the driveway and parking
area present difficult or even dangerous challenges. You
don’t want to have a dinner party and find your guests
rushing off before dark so that they can navigate the drive
confidently. Basically, a typical house requires parking and a turnaround area with a relatively level 40-ft.www.finehomebuilding.com
6-in.-dia.
hole
Construction photos: Courtesy of Platt Architecture
Second
floor
20 ft.
⁄ -in. threaded rebar
12
Cement grout (portland
cement, sand, and water)
dia. circle. Creating this area on a 20% slope requires
good grading, drainage planning, and engineered retaining walls.
The cabin as we found it had workable parking. The
journey from the car to the front door, however, was anything but. This winding route up scores of steps and all
the way around the house made the homeowners dread
returning from the grocery store.
It was clear that we couldn’t get the cars up to the front
door, so our solution was to connect the cabin to the
parking area with a tower addition. The lowest level of
the addition contains a new main entry adjacent to the
parking area. Stairs and a small elevator provide comfortable conveyance to the two upper floors of the house.
In designing new houses, we frequently stack oversize
closets with removable floors to allow future installation
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
77
When framing
a view with windows,
always be sure that you
can see the sky.
One room, two
focal points. Smart
window placement
in the living room
frames waterfall and
sky, while on the
opposite side of the
room, a fireplace is
the heart of a cozy
sitting area. The
stone fireplace surround complements
the mountainside
views. Photo above
taken at F on floor
plan; photo right
taken at G.
78
FINE HOMEBUILDING
of an elevator as the homeowners grow older. In this
project, installing an elevator right away made sense.
New levels with landings
The new entry level also contains a generous bedroom
suite, the second level is a similar bedroom suite, and the
third (main) level, which opens into the old cabin, has a
new living room and fireplace. The original living room
was enlarged to accommodate dining space and a new
kitchen. The original dining room became a separate
family room off the original bedrooms, and the original
kitchen became the pantry (floor plans p. 75).
We enhanced the stairs’ interest and utility by adding
4 ft. of depth to the landings, converting them to usable
spaces. On the first landing, we created a small office that
can be closed off with pocket doors when it isn’t being
used. The second landing doubles as an intimate reading
nook a few steps down from the main
gathering space. By incorporating the
landings, we created two additional
rooms in about 60 sq. ft. of additional
floor space (bottom photos, p. 76).
Keep the sky in view
Transylvania County receives more
annual rainfall than the famously wet
Pacific Northwest, and we get the
bulk of it in spring and summer. This
dampness makes for a lush, beautiful environment covered with dense
hardwoods, rhododendron, and
mountain laurel among the waterfalls, but it also makes for overcast conditions that can leave us longing for
sunlight. Combining those weather
conditions with a shady site makes
sunlight even more precious.
It was important to focus on big windows that would
allow a large amount of natural light into the house.
Fortunately, the cabin’s last major shortcoming—no
view—was related directly to too few windows. The
big windows we planned for daylight could improve the
views; we just needed to be sure that they were the right
size and in the right locations.
When designing on a site with a great view, capturing
the whole view is important. Mountain vistas are often
distant and horizontal, requiring wide expanses of glass.
In this house, though, the view isn’t distant and horizontal but close up and vertical. With this type of view, not
blocking the lower portion with decks or railings and
opening the top to the waterfall and the sky were important. When framing a view with windows, always be sure
that you can see the sky.
Build up, and anchor the house to the hill
Situating a three-story addition between the cabin and
the creek was more easily said than done. Our engineer’s
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suggestion was to use a soil-nail wall (sidebar p. 77). Soilnailing is a shoring method used to retain an earthen cut
bank. Soil-nailing doesn’t hold back the soil; it reinforces
the soil by adding tensile strength in the same way that
steel-reinforcing adds tensile strength to concrete. The
basic process is to drill a series of holes into a 4-ft.- or
5-ft.-deep cut in the hillside. The holes are perpendicular
to the ground, are reinforced with rebar, and are pumped
full of concrete. Wire mesh and rebar mesh are tied to the
face of the cut and then sprayed with 5000-psi concrete.
The result is a secure cut bank that doesn’t need to be
held back with a masonry retaining wall and a huge footing. After the soil-nail wall was set in place, the cabin’s
tower addition was built with standard foundation and
framing methods.
:
Designed for entertaining. The covered
porch and the deck
beyond make great
spots for lunches
and cookouts, while
a formal dining
room handles dinner parties. In the
kitchen, a two-level
island lets the cook
prepare meals and
still chat with family
and guests. The
island also works
well as a breakfast
bar. Photo above
taken at H on floor
plan; inset taken
at I.
Parker Platt is a partner of Platt Architecture (www
.plattarchitecture.com) in Brevard, N.C. The firm
designed the 2006 HGTV Dream Home. Photos by
Daniel S. Morrison, except where noted.
FeBruAry/MArCh 2007
79
Installing
Low-Voltage
Landscape
Lighting
80
FINE HOMEBUILDING
All 12v lighting systems are safe,
adaptable, and energy-efficient,
but quality components and careful
installation make the difference
over the long haul
BY CLIFFORD A. POPEJOY
L
andscape-lighting installation is easy—too easy, I think.
Although the lighting might be sold as a foolproof product,
I’ve removed more than a few systems that were wrecks,
doomed from the start by poor hardware and inferior installations.
If you invest in quality materials, choose durable fixtures, and take
care during the installation process, your low-voltage system will look
great, perform reliably, and be easy to modify.
Choose between line and low voltage
Landscape-lighting systems are divided into two types: line voltage
and low voltage. Line-voltage systems operate at 120v, the same voltage found in a typical wall outlet. Low-voltage systems use a transformer to step down the voltage from 120v to a safer 12v.
As an electrician, I prefer to work with low-voltage landscape-lighting
systems because they are a lot easier for me to install, and are safer
and more flexible for homeowners to adjust and maintain on their
own. Low-voltage cables are safe enough to be concealed with only a
few inches of soil, mulch, or other ground cover. As a result, it’s easy
to move around light fixtures and wiring as the landscape matures
or is altered.
Of course, low-voltage systems have some disadvantages as well.
Because the transformer puts out a limited amount of power, you
can’t place dozens of lights on a low-voltage circuit. And although
effective lighting can be accomplished with 10w, 15w, or 20w lamps,
low-voltage setups don’t lend themselves to high-wattage fixtures.
Also, if long distances are involved—more than 100 ft. between the
transformer and the farthest fixture—the wire’s resistance can cause
a significant reduction in the voltage reaching the distant fixtures.
This line loss can leave the light from those lamps noticeably dim
and yellowish. However, it’s not hard to design and install a system
to overcome voltage drop (sidebar, pp. 82-83).
Lighting kits have limitations
Low-voltage lights often are sold in kits that include a transformer,
cable, and several fixtures. Kit prices can be as low as $100, but
you end up buying a system that can’t be expanded or even altered
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Inset photos: Courtesy of eLights.com
Light show
PATH LIGHTS
Designed to illuminate walkways and
patios, these lights come in several
varieties. Most have angled louvers or
a domed top that throws light onto the
path but shields the eyes from glare.
$40-$180
ACCENT LIGHTS
These spotlights direct a narrow
beam at a feature that deserves
nighttime illumination. They’re
also useful for security lighting.
Designed to be mounted on a
tree, on a wall, or in the ground,
accent lights can swivel and lock. $35-$150.
WALL WASHERS
This type of fixture works like a floodlight, projecting a broad expanse of
light in one direction. Although often
used to show off the texture, vegetation, or well-crafted detail on a wall,
this type of fixture can provide security lighting as well. $50-$100.
WELL LIGHTS
Directing light upward,
these fixtures have a canshaped body designed to
be buried fully or partially
in the ground. $25-$65
DECK AND PATIO LIGHTS
There’s great variety in this category.
Many fixtures are designed to be
installed on deck railings, mounting
on posts or balusters. For patios,
flush-mount fixtures are available
that install like paver blocks. $30-$50.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
81
easily. The minimal level of the lighting and
the short life span of bargain light fixtures
can be (excuse the pun) a real turnoff.
I buy my components separately: a highquality transformer, 10-ga. cable (heavier
duty than the 12-ga. cable that comes with
many kits), well-made metal (not plastic)
light fixtures, and good cable connectors
(sidebar facing page). Although a premium
low-voltage lighting package costs quite a
bit more, you’ll be able to power more lights,
and you won’t be limited by the fixtures that
come with the kit. Instead, you can select fixtures from different manufacturers, getting
exactly the features and styles you want.
The fixtures I used in the project featured here are from Vista
(www.vistapro.com).
Overcoming voltage drops
I’ve found that if the voltage reaching a low-voltage lamp falls below 11v, the
output of the lamplight will be reduced, and
the light will appear to be dim and yellowish in color. Quality transformers have outputs that are above 12v (usually 13v, 14v, and
15v). These outputs—called taps—allow the
circuit to be fed with a voltage above 12v so
that even after the voltage is reduced by the
resistance in the electrical cable, the farthest
fixture still will run above 11v.
For setups like these, I follow a few rules
of thumb: I keep the lamp load to about 70%
of the rated transformer capacity, I upgrade
to 10-ga. cable instead of the lighter, morecommon 12-ga. cable, and I try hard to keep
the cable length on individual circuits to
200 ft. or less. If the loop is between 125 ft.
and 175 ft. long, I use a 13v tap; if the run has
to be longer than 200 ft., a 14v or 15v tap is
the best bet. Some transformers also have an
11v tap, perfect for circuits that are loaded
lightly or have short cable runs. Running a
lamp at a bit less than 12v extends its life considerably and is hardly noticeable in brightness or light color.
CHOOSING THE BEST LAYOUT
To determine the ideal circuit layout, first determine fixture locations. Group fixtures into 150w to 200w circuits that will be controlled together. If the distance
from the transformer to the last fixture is 50 ft. or less and the first fixture is
within 20 ft., you can use a straight run of cable. Any longer or more complicated
than that, and I go with one of the layouts shown below.
Loop layout
The name of the game, especially
when the farthest fixture is more
than 75 ft. from the transformer,
is to make a loop. This way,
power is fed to the most-distant
fixtures from both directions, and
voltage drop is less.
Layout variations
If the initial single run is short, a
balloon layout is nearly as effective
at reducing voltage drop as a loop. I use
this approach if I have to run cable in a channel
under an obstacle. A spur is a way to feed one
or two fixtures off a loop, especially if there are
obstacles on the far side of a loop layout.
Balloon layout
Cables typically are covered,
not buried
Low-voltage cables can be left aboveground
safely, but for appearance’s sake, concealing
the cables and the splices with some type of
mulch or ground cover is a good idea. If the
cables are run through an area where they
are likely to be damaged by a garden shovel,
an edger, or a lawn aerator, they should be
buried about 6 in. deep. Otherwise, leave the
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FINE HOMEBUILDING
Cover the cable
Spur layout
To run cables across a
lawn, use a square shovel
to create a narrow trench
along the grass; then
simply lay the cable in the
trench and tamp the grass
around it. The grass soon
will grow back and hide any
signs of digging.
Drawings: Don Mannes. Product photos, bottom right, facing page: Krysta S. Doerfler.
Preview the final effect
To see how plans translate into reality,
I place the light fixtures in their proposed
positions. This step identifies weak spots
in the lighting scheme and gets me familiar
with the potential hurdles of each landscape. Once I’m satisfied with the layout,
I run cable to each fixture, leaving enough
slack to give me wiggle room for wire
connections and final positioning. A piece
of 1⁄ 2-in. pipe spanning the bottom rungs
of a stepladder creates a
perfect job-site cable reel.
Weatherproof
the connections
Many manufacturers use connectors with sharp prongs
that pierce the insulation of supply cable and tap into the
live wire within. These connections are quick and easy, but
the prongs aren’t strong enough to pierce the thicker insulation of the 10-ga. cable that I prefer. That’s why I typically
use either a high-quality twist-on connector that I fill with
siliconized latex caulk, special twist-on connectors made
to be buried directly, or tubes filled with waterproof gel
into which I insert splices made with regular wire nuts.
Anchor the stakes
I use a hammer and a sacrificial
scrap of wood to sink the stakes
into the soil. The hammer makes
quick work of even the toughest
soil, while the wood helps protect
the threads on the stakes. A 2-lb.
rubber mallet also does the job.
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1. First, I split apart the two
wires with a utility knife so
that I have about 4 in. to
6 in. of length to work with.
2. Then I use the 10-ga.
(stranded) hole in my wire
strippers to remove about
11⁄4 in. of insulation.
3. Keep the polarity of the
cable consistent: One of the
wires will have longitudinal
ribs. Keep them together.
4. Then I twist together the
wires with lineman’s pliers,
trim the end, and spin on a
wire connector.
Direct-burial
wire nut
Gel-filled
tube
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
83
How to overcome
obstacles
One common obstacle when running cable is a concrete walkway,
driveway, or slab. If there’s a control joint or an expansion joint in
the right place, I sometimes open the joint with an angle grinder
(and a diamond wheel) and tuck the cable in the groove. Then I
fill the groove with concrete sealer.
One of the best ways to run cables under a patio, driveway, or
in this case, a walkway, is to use a low-tech boring tool called
a BorZit (800-803-8738; www.borzit.com). A conventional garden hose connects directly to the body of the BorZit and
allows water to be run into the pipe and out the tip of the
spinning bit to provide lubrication. Simply add more length
to the pipe—using threaded connectors—until you reach
the other side of the walk or driveway, then replace the bit
with an eyebolt attachment to pull the cable back through
the hole as you retract and disassemble the sections of
the pipe.
The BorZit can handle moderately rocky soil, and because
displaced earth is compacted around the bored hole rather
than being washed out, this system
doesn’t create the same oversize
openings and potential surface
cracks that are associated with a
typical water-jet system. Because
the BorZit relies on water and
electricity, make sure that
the drill is plugged into a
GFCI-protected circuit.
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FINE HOMEBUILDING
Water-powered drilling.
This $200 system requires
the use of a heavy-duty
1⁄ 2-in. drill, which spins a
special water-lubricated
boring bit mounted on
the end of one or more
standard 3⁄4-in. pipes.
BUY THE BEST TRANSFORMER YOU CAN AFFORD
In a low-voltage system, a transformer steps down
the voltage from 120v to between 12v and 15v.
First, pick the fixtures you like, then buy the best
transformer you can afford. You can use any 12v transformer with any 12v fixture, but I use only transformers that meet the UL 1838 standard, which incorporates several important safety features.
It’s also not a bad idea to choose a transformer
with room for expansion. For this project, I installed
one unit with two 300w transformers—plenty of
room to add more fixtures as the landscape changes
and matures. A unit like the one shown here costs
about $400 to $500, but it will offer 20 years or
more of trouble-free service.
cables near the surface, where they will be
easier to move. As plants mature or as design
tastes change, being able to uncover cable
easily and move it are big advantages.
Of course, Murphy’s Law says that there
will be at least one spot where you want to
run cable that is blocked by a walkway, a
driveway, or a concrete slab. If there’s a control joint or an expansion joint in the right
place, I sometimes will open the joint by
using an angle grinder equipped with a
diamond wheel, then simply tuck the cable
in the groove before resealing the joint with
concrete sealer.
If there are no expansion joints to work
with, often the only way to get past a wide
slab or walkway is to go under it. One op-
RULES OF THUMB
• Keep the overall lamp load (combined
wattage of all lamps) to about 70% of the
rated transformer capacity.
• If the circuit or loop is between
125 ft. and 175 ft. long, use a 13v tap; if
it’s longer than 200 ft., a 14v or 15v tap is
the best bet.
• Most low-voltage transformers are
intended and listed for outdoor use. If you
plan to mount the transformer indoors,
make sure you choose a model approved
for that application.
tion is to drive a pipe through the soil, leave it
in place, and run the cable through the pipe.
It’s an effective solution, but it involves lots
of hard work. Plus, rocky soil can make this
method nearly impossible.
It’s easy and tempting to use a garden
hose and needle nozzle to blast a hole under
a walkway, but you need a way to get rid
of the water and mud generated by this
method, and it usually leaves a much bigger
space than is needed for the cable. Plus, I’ve
never found a really good way to backfill this
type of tunneling, and leaving the underside
of a wide and heavy surface unsupported can
lead to large surface cracks and sinkholes.
The best solution I’ve found is a low-tech,
water-lubricated boring tool designed to
avoid these common problems (sidebar facing page).
Maintenance ensures a long life
A good lighting system needs a little attention
to keep working well. Burned-out lamps or
damaged fixtures have to be replaced. In addition, recessed fixtures should be cleared of
leaves and dirt at least once a month. As the
landscape matures, fixtures might need to be
relocated. This maintenance is fast and simple, and it keeps the landscape illuminated
as nicely as when the system was new.
:
Clifford A. Popejoy is an electrical contractor in Sacramento, Calif. Photos by
Justin Fink, except where noted.
TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS FROM A PRO ELECTRICIAN
Bottom photo: Clifford A. Popejoy
If you finish the installation, flip on the power, and nothing happens, don’t lose hope. Although these systems
are relatively easy to install, they aren’t foolproof. Here’s what the instruction manuals might not tell you.
None of the lamps
will light up
A single lamp
won’t light up
One lamp is out, but the
supply cable has power
Start by checking the
120v supply voltage
to the transformer. If
that’s normal, check
the voltage at the tap
terminals. If there is no
voltage there, check
the incoming power;
the GFCI or primary
protection breaker on
the transformer might
have tripped and might
need to be reset. Consult
the transformer manual
to locate this breaker.
If just one lamp isn’t lit,
check to see if the fixture
is getting power. Cut the
power, remove the lamp,
power up again, and check
the fixture’s resistance
using a multimeter. If
the multimeter shows
a noninfinite resistance
(which indicates a properly
closed circuit), the lamp
passes the test. If not,
install a new lamp. If that
still doesn’t work, look at
the socket for damage or
corrosion (typically not a
problem in new systems).
This problem usually
indicates a bad splice from
the fixture to the supply
cable, or a wire that has
been severed along the
way. Often, signs of recent
shovel or spade work are
a good guide for finding a
cut cable. If there are no
obvious indications of
damage and it’s not a looplayout circuit, find the last
fixture in the circuit where
there’s power, and look for
a break in the cable between there and the dead
section of supply cable.
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Lights go on and off
If the lights on a circuit
go off, and after 20 to
30 minutes come back on
for an extended period
of time, the problem is an
overloaded transformer.
The internal secondary
overload protector trips,
shutting off the lights, then
automatically resets itself
and turns the lights back
on after it cools down. If
the circuit is overloaded
with too many fixtures or
too much wattage, split
the circuit and add another
transformer to redistribute
the load.
Dim or
yellowish light
Use a multimeter
to check for voltage
drop at the most-distant
fixtures. To do this, I make
a test probe (photo above)
by pushing two sewing
needles through a wine cork;
I attach the alligator-clip leads
from the multimeter to the
needles. This tool allows me
to pierce the insulation of the
supply cable accurately. The
voltage in the cable should
be between 11v and 12v.
Less, and the light will appear
weak; more, and the lamps
will burn out prematurely.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
85
Curved Ceiling?
Bend 1x4s between
the walls to get
an expensive look
without a lot of
extra work
BY MICHAEL CHANDLER
A
cathedral ceiling can open up a
room dramatically, but if the ceiling
is framed with a massive structural
ridge beam, the beam will be a challenge to
hide. An obvious solution is either to use
bigger rafters or to fur down the ceiling to
hide the ridge. Oversize rafters are a waste
of wood, so my three-person crew opts for
furring. As long as we’re installing furring,
why not have fun and curve the ceiling?
Triple LVL
ridge beam
The furring turns a chore into a delightful,
economical upgrade. Adding 1x4 furring to
the framing package costs less than increasing the rafters to 2x12s or I-joists. We can
install the backing and the curved furring on
a 27-ft. by 27-ft. ceiling in about three hours.
Strike a curve, and locate backing
We use 1x4 #2 spruce furring. It’s available in
lengths up to only 16 ft., so most jobs require
Start paneling at
the center and
work toward the
walls.
L-shaped backing boards,
spaced 3 ft. to 4 ft. apart,
are made with a combination of 2x4s and 2x6s.
Ridge
Rafter
Configure backing
boards to span between
rafter and curve.
Trace the curve on the gable wall,
then install backing and furring
Step 1:
Butt, bend, and scribe
Butt a 1x4 up against
the wall blocking, and
then bend until it rests
squarely against the ridge
beam’s bottom edge.
Trace along the top of the
1x4, marking the curve on
the gable-end wall.
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FINE HOMEBUILDING
Step 2:
Install backing boards
Slide a short section
of backing along the
bottom of the rafter
until it intersects the
curved line. Attach
the full-length backing
boards here with ringshank nails or screws.
Step 3:
Nail up furring strips
Start at one end of the
room by centering a 1x4
across the ridge beam.
Nail the 1x4 to the ridge,
then bend and nail it
against the backing boards,
using ring-shank nails. Butt
furring joints over backing
boards, and stagger joints
in adjacent courses.
1x4 furring, spaced
16 in. or 24 in. apart
Drawing: Toby Welles
No Problem.
more than one piece to span the ceiling. To
control the curve of the 1x4s and to support
the ceiling, we fasten backing boards across
the rafters, spacing them 3 ft. to 4 ft. apart.
Just as when installing strongbacks, different combinations of dimensional lumber can
be used for backing, depending on the offset
required from the bottom edge of the rafter
to back up the 1x4 curve.
On the project shown here, we bent a 16-ft.
1x4 between the end wall and the ridge beam,
and simply traced the resulting curve on the
gable-end drywall. Measuring down from
the rafter to the curve gave us the distance
that the backing boards would need to span.
As shown below, the resulting curve isn’t
a true arc, but a curve with flattened ends.
We add fire-blocking in the walls where the
curve dips below the double top plate.
2x8 rafter
Next, we slide short lengths of backing
along the rafters to determine the size and
the location of the actual backing boards.
Then we snap lines on the underside of the
rafters to guide the installation. After assembling the backing boards on the floor, we
attach them to the underside of the rafters
with ring-shank nails or screws.
Offset the splices in the strapping
With the 1x4 furring strips, make sure to offset the splices in adjacent courses so that the
overall curve of the ceiling can stay as fair as
possible. Generally, the fairest curve should
be across the center of the ceiling span, so
it’s smart to start with the clearest stock centered across every other rafter. This leaves
short sections at the walls to fill later. Next,
we install long pieces starting at the walls,
spliced on the ridge, between the first set of
curves. We cut and fill the short end pieces
with knottier stock.
Using ring-shank nails (or even deck screws)
to fasten the furring strips is worthwhile
because the nails will be loaded in withdrawal
from fighting the tension of all those tortured 1x4s. We often finish the ceilings with
wood paneling, but two layers of 3⁄8-in. drywall work, too. When you’re using tongueand-groove paneling, spray-foam insulation
ensures an effective air barrier above the paneling. A well-detailed drywall ceiling should
stop air movement enough to allow you to
use fiberglass or cellulose insulation.
:
Michael Chandler owns Chandler
Design-Build (www.chandlerdesignbuild
.com) near Chapel Hill, N.C. Photo by
Seth Tice-Lewis.
This part of the curve
can be flatter.
Furring the ceiling down below the top
plates connects the walls to the roof,
creating a fire raceway. Nail fire-blocking
across the studs to close this gap and to
create backing for the furring.
Fire-blocking
www.finehomebuilding.com
febrUAry/MArch 2007
87
5
A S P H A LT
WOOD
Roofs
That
Will
Last a
Lifetime
M E TA L
S L AT E
Consider regional style and
the house’s scale
TILE
These premium products offer time-tested
longevity, so your choice depends on
price, appearance, housing style, and
installation requirements
BY HARRISON MCCAMPBELL
88
FINE HOMEBUILDING
I
’m an architect specializing in
moisture problems and solutions. Unfortunately, much
of my consulting work involves roofing failures. To me, this is
lunacy; we’ve been building roofs
that don’t leak for a long time, starting with thatch about 30,000 years
ago. Clay-tile roofing appeared
around 10,000 B.C., followed by copper (3000 B.C.), slate (2500 B.C.), and
wood shakes (12th century A.D.).
Today, these ancient roofing
materials are overshadowed easily
by asphalt shingles, which are used
on about 60% of houses. But asphalt
shingles don’t satisfy the needs of all
homeowners. Historic homes often
require traditional materials, and
extreme climates can narrow roofing choices. And some people just
don’t like the look of asphalt.
If price is your only consideration,
then 15-year three-tab asphalt shingles beat any other material hands
down. If durability is most important, then a permanent solution such
as standing-seam copper might bubble to the top of your list. But these
things aren’t the only considerations.
Think about the style and structural integrity of your house. Clay
tiles are common along the southern tier of the United States, but less
common in New England. Also, the
scale of the roofing material ought to
match the scale of the house. Small
roofs look goofy with large concrete
tiles. The existing roof structure
might dictate what you can and cannot do easily. Some old houses have
2x4 roof framing on 2-ft. centers.
This framing simply isn’t strong
enough to support a heavy roof. But
a lighter material, such as metal,
often can be installed directly over
existing shingles.
Climate matters, too. Traditional
choices typically evolve in an area
Photos this page: metal and slate, John Mahan; tile, courtesy of The Roofing Institute; right, Daniel S. Morrison.
PREMIUM-GRADE
A S P H A LT S H I N G L E S
Specs
Material cost per square:
(national average, basic roof)
$100 to $325
Installed cost per square:
$300 to $450
Materials-to-labor ratio:
40% materials/60% labor
Weight: 3 lb. to 5 lb. per sq. ft.
OFFER WARRANTED LONGEVITY
50 year
Asphalt shingles own two-thirds
of the roofing market because
they’re inexpensive, easy
to install, and available in a
wide range of colors and
styles. Premium-quality
20 year
shingles are noticeably
thicker than cheaper shingles,
and from a distance can look like
slate or wood shingles. Rooftop delivery
removes much of the extra labor involved
in installing heavier shingles.
www.finehomebuilding.com
While most folks are familiar with 25-year warranties for asphalt shingles, manufacturers now offer
premium architectural or dimensional grades that
compete with tile, slate, and wood shingles for longevity. Or at least the warranties do: 50-year warranties are now common, and some manufacturers
offer transferable lifetime warranties. These
extended warranties beg the question as to what
has changed in the asphalt-shingle industry.
“More weight and better
Noteworthy details
design,” explains Husnu
Kalkanoglu, vice president • OK to walk on
• Easy to repair
of research and develop• No maintenance
ment at CertainTeed’s
• Suitable for complex
exterior products division.
roof designs
“A 20-year three-tab shin• Many colors available
• Good installers are
gle may weigh approxiplentiful
mately 200 lb. per square,
whereas a higher-warranty
shingle will be much, much heavier, up to 500 lb.
per square. This is because of two things: more
asphalt and multiple layers.”
Asphalt sheds water and provides a base for
embedding granules. Made from different sizes of
ceramic-coated crushed rock or ceramic beads, the
granules do more than provide color; they also
protect the asphalt from UV-degradation. More
asphalt allows the granules to bed deeper, which
means the asphalt can provide waterproofing protection longer. The other part of the design—
multiple fiberglass-mat layers—also boosts life
expectancy by adding strength and protection
against weathering.
Owens Corning Berkshire
CertainTeed Landmark
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
89
Installation matters because
warranties are relative
Proper installation is critical with
any type of roofing material.
Improperly installed roofs can leak.
Sloppy installation details can void
the warranty. Installation details are
specified according to how a material
is developed and tested in the manufacturer’s lab, and the warranty is
written according to this research to
provide a consistent product that the
manufacturer can stand behind.
But realize how warranties originate: as a sales tool. Asphalt shingles,
for example, used to be differentiated by their weight: 200 lb. per
square as opposed to 250 lb. per
square (a square equals 100 sq. ft.).
This means little to a consumer,
so marketers translated these numbers into serviceable life: 15-year,
30-year, and—more recently—even
lifetime warranties.
Some features in a warranty, however, are aimed more at the sales
aspect and less at the “stand behind
their product” part. Prorated warranties (those that pay less as time
goes on) are a good example. This
sliding-scale compensation limits
losses while allowing the manufacturer to put a big number on the
time scale. Another warranty hook
is transferability. Some manufacturers take advantage of the average
homeowners’ 10-year stay in a house
90
FINE HOMEBUILDING
IS SIMPLE TO INSTALL
ON COMPLEX ROOFS
Specs
Material cost per square:
$200 to $600
Installed cost per square:
$700 to $1000
Materials-to-labor ratio:
60% materials/40% labor
Weight: 0.35 lb. to 1.5 lb. per sq. ft.
Available in red cedar, white cedar, Alaskan yellow
cedar (which is actually cypress), white oak, and
southern yellow pine, wood shakes and shingles
have a long track record (see “What’s the Difference?” p. 106). But for all that’s available, red-cedar
shakes from British Columbia are the most prevalent. Canada produces
90% of the world’s shakes and shingles.
In spite of the red, white, and yellow in their names, all shakes and
shingles weather to gray after a year or so. While it’s possible to use kilndried (KD) prestained shingles on a roof, it’s difficult to maintain the color,
especially if you want it to match a house’s sideNoteworthy details
walls. Prestained shingles also require extra instal• OK to walk on
lation attention. “Be very careful of your spacing,”
• Easy to repair
advises Lloyd Clefstad, president of www.wood
• Maintenance: Leaves
roof.com. “When wet, KD shingles can expand 4%,
should be swept off
roof to allow drying
which, without the proper spacing, will cause buck• Suitable for complex
ling, breaking, and eventually roof leaks.”
roof designs
Class A, B, and C fire ratings are available based
• Limited color range:
on
factory-applied treatments, but some cities in
They all fade to gray
California
don’t allow any type of wood roofing
• Good installers are
plentiful
regardless of its fire rating.
Photo: Daniel S. Morrison
WOOD ROOFING
STANDING SEAM
IS THE BEST METAL ROOF
Corrugated-aluminum roofing long has been a
favorite due to its long-lasting, low-maintenance
qualities and its fire- and wind-resistance capabilities. But aluminum is extremely soft, and corrugated sheets have exposed fasteners, which can
Photo: Courtesy of Follansbee
leak over time. Steel is considerably stronger but
heavier; its longevity depends on a rust-resistant coating. Factory-applied
coatings (Enduracote, Galvalume, Kynar, terne) afford the best protection
as well as a varied color selection. Light-colored roofs can reduce airconditioning costs substantially.
“Standing-seam copper roofing is my favorite residential-roof system, for
its durability and good looks” says Rick Ragan, owner of Southern Roofing
Inc. in Nashville, Tenn. “Because standing-seam panels have concealed fasteners, the roof should never need to be replaced.”
Metal roof panels also are manufactured with contours or textures to imitate the look of roof tiles and
Specs
wood shakes, but these lightweight preformed panMaterial cost per square:
els dent under foot traffic or storm-related damage.
$260 to $900
Installed cost per square:
“Those panels may be OK in places without many
$400 to $1400
trees or high winds, but I’ve pulled enough trees off
Materials-to-labor ratio:
of roofs after hurricanes to stay away from them,”
65% materials/35% labor
says builder Michael Chandler in Chapel Hill, N.C.
Weight: 0.5 lb. to 1.75 lb. per sq. ft.
Photo: John Mahan
because they work well. Tile roofs
do well in hurricane-prone areas
(with proper detailing). A standingseam terne-coated stainless-steel
roof resists the corrosive salt air of
a coastal climate. A lifetime roof
might not be worth the investment
if you’re planning to move within a
few years. And depending on your
roofing choice, you could get a break
(or take a hit) on your homeowner’s
insurance. Finally, think about repairing the roof. If a large branch
falls on your roof after a storm, will
you need a total reroof? Can you
actually walk on it to make the repair? Clay tile and slate are brittle, so
repair can be a challenge; metal roofs
can be slippery to walk on.
Red cedar
Alaskan
yellow cedar
Pressure-treated
southern yellow
pine
Shakes and shingles are easy to cut and install, and wood roofs
can last a long time. Red cedar can last up to 30 years, Alaskan
yellow even longer. Pressure-treated pine is warranted for 50
years, and white oak often lasts for 75 years. All wood roofs last
longer if they can dry evenly. If the back can’t dry as quickly as
the front, shingles can cup, crack, and work loose. To promote
even drying, you can install the roofing on skip sheathing,
weaving felt paper between courses, or install shingles over a
drainage mat such as Cedarbreather (www.cedarbreather.com).
Noteworthy details
Follansbee terne-coated
stainless steel
• Slippery to walk on
• Difficult to repair
• No maintenance
• Difficult to install on
complex roofs
• Many colors available
• Good installers are less
plentiful
Slotted clip
Fabral Enduracote
Site-made
clip
www.finehomebuilding.com
As in the photo at left, a standing-seam
roof can be fabricated on site with shears,
brakes, and other tools that turn flat
sheet metal (copper, in this case) into
Fixed clip,
seamed panels. More often, factory-made
movable track
panels are used (photos above). Installation
details for site-made and factory-made panels
are similar. Panels join along vertical seams that either snap or
are crimped together. Panels are held in place with clips that
are nailed to roof sheathing. Installation details must account for
expansion and contraction to avoid buckling.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
91
and void a warranty when the original buyer transfers ownership.
“I don’t have any faith in our ability
ever to collect on an asphalt-shingle
warranty,” says roofing contractor
Stephen Hazlett of Akron, Ohio.
“On almost every roof, I have to
deviate from the recommended procedures.” Such deviations are often
from the specified nailing pattern. A
shingle could butt against a chimney
or a waste-stack flashing, requiring a
nail a couple of inches away from the
specified location. If the placement
doesn’t match the shingle company’s
specs, the manufacturer might not
honor the warranty. While some
manufacturers offer more liberal
nail-placement specs, most are strict
about nail location.
While Hazlett hasn’t had a warranty
problem, he thinks a warranty’s
real value is relative: A 50-year shingle might or might not last 50 years,
but it will outlast a 15-year shingle
substantially. Bottom line for warranty shoppers: Look for transferable warranties and, if possible,
warranties that aren’t prorated.
For asphalt roofs, qualified installation contractors are ubiquitous,
but for more exotic materials, qualified installers can be scarce. Look to
trade organizations for local contacts
(“Sources,” facing page).
Specs
Material cost per square:
$350 to $800
Installed cost per square:
$1000 to $1340
Materials-to-labor ratio:
60% materials/40% labor
Weight: 6 lb. to 11 lb.
per sq. ft.
What’s on my house?
I always have liked California mission- or Mediterranean-style homes.
The mission “pan and barrel” tile,
set in mortar, is my favorite residential roof. Copper is my metal roof
of choice for its looks and durability. Did I use either when I reroofed
my own house last year? No. I used
a laminated 30-year asphalt shingle
because mission tiles would have
looked silly on my brick ranch and
asphalt shingles were about onethird the price of copper.
:
Harrison McCampbell, AIA, specializes in moisture issues within
the building envelope. He lives
and works in Brentwood, Tenn.
Photos by Krysta S. Doerfler,
except where noted.
92
FINE HOMEBUILDING
SLATE IS A TRADITIONAL CHOICE
THAT LASTS HUNDREDS OF YEARS
One of the most prestigious building materials is
experiencing a rebirth. Slate production and use
essentially have doubled in the last decade, and many
quarries have modernized their facilities to handle
slate more efficiently. Most slate quarries are in the
Eastern United States and Canada, each producing its
own distinct colors.
Noteworthy details
Slate roofing went through a
bottleneck in the 1950s with
• Shouldn’t be
walked on
the increased use of asphalt
•
Colors
vary by region
roofing, and many old-timers
and batch
who knew trade secrets are
• No maintenance
gone. That’s why it can be
• Repairs aren’t
difficult but require
challenging today to find truly
ladders and staging
skilled installers who know
• Suitable for complex
the correct details for starter
roof designs
courses, valleys, ridges, and
• Good installers are
scarce
even the staging that allows
• Copper nails and
an installation to be completed
flashing are
without anyone walking on
recommended
the slate. The advent of power
tools hasn’t had much effect on how slate roofs are
installed. It’s still a process done largely by hand. But
the reward for this labor-intensive process is a roof
with exceptional character and longevity.
Online extra
A soft, metamorphic rock,
slate is cut readily with a
shear; holes are punched
with the pointed end of a
slater’s hammer.
See John Mahan of Mahan Slate
Roofing Company in Springfield,
Mass., demonstrate slate-roofing
techniques at
www.finehomebuilding.com.
Top photo: John Mahan; bottom photo: Daniel S. Morrison.
CLAY
Specs
Photo: Courtesy of Tile Roofing Institute
Material cost per square:
$600 to $750
Installed cost per square:
$1200 to $1500
Materials-to-labor ratio:
50% materials/50% labor
Weight: 11 lb. to 14 lb. per sq. ft.
Photo: Courtesy of
MonierLifetile Company
Noteworthy details
• Shouldn’t be walked on
• Difficult to install and
repair
• No maintenance
ROOF TILES ARE MADE WITH
• Not suitable for
complex roofs
CLAY OR CONCRETE
• Good installers available
regionally
Barrel
S-tile
Greek
Clay tiles are available in many
styles, sizes, and colors. Three
popular Ludowici styles are
shown above.
SOURCES
The earliest clay-roofing tiles were made by bending
moist sheets of freshly mixed clay over the thighs of
workers, thus forming a tapered half-barrel shape
that allowed for a distinctive over-under pattern
across the roof. With the mass production of clay
tiles, both barrel and flat, features such as lugs and
dips were incorporated to help interlock and stabilize
the tiles as they were laid one on another. From a limited range of options, colors now are almost limitless,
finishes are either dull or glazed, and some tile even
is textured to look like wood shakes.
Both clay and concrete are fireproof, with excellent
wind resistance when installed properly. But installation can be tricky: You need to install wood battens
on the roof and along the hips and ridges as well,
tiles need to be cut with a diamond-blade saw, and
underlayment must be exceptional, often #90 rolled
roofing. Because roof tiles last a long time, you need
to use durable fasteners and flashings. Tests by the
Tile Roofing Institute have shown that wind clips
and specially placed adhesives let tile roofs sustain
125-mph winds. The biggest disadvantage with concrete and clay is weight, but this problem is solved
easily with beefed-up framing.
CONCRETE
Specs
Material cost per square:
$280 to $320
Installed cost per square:
$700 to $800
Materials-to-labor ratio:
40% materials/60% labor
Weight: 8 lb. to 18 lb. per sq. ft.
Shake
Concrete tiles have
a rougher surface
texture than clay tile,
and cost about half as
much. Two MonierLifetile
styles are shown.
S-tile
(trade organizations appear in bold type)
Asphalt
Wood
Metal
Slate
Tile
www.asphaltroofing.org
www.certainteed.com
www.owenscorning.com
www.gaf.com
www.malarkeyroofing.com
www.tamko.com
www.cedarbureau.org
www.bcshakeshingle.com
www.lifepine.com
www.woodroof.com
www.builddirect.com
www.metalroofing.com
www.follansbeeroofing.com
www.fabral.com
www.abcmetalroofing.com
www.centralstatesmfg.com
www.custombiltmetals.com
www.slateassociation.org
www.slateroofcentral.com
www.usedslate.com
www.nu-lokusa.com
www.americanslate.com
www.virginiaslate.com
www.tileroofing.org
www.ludowici.com
www.monierlifetile.com
www.redlandclaytile.com
www.ustile.com
www.westile.com
www.finehomebuilding.com
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007
93
finishingtouches
a gallery of design ideas
Manspace:
Find a place to
call your own
“What men do in their own
spaces is as important as the spaces
themselves. Hobbies and professions
are realized there, as are fun and
games. In fact, it’s often the activity
that defines the manspace ... Whether
men are storing things, playing with
trains, pouring pints, watching the
game, or cutting 2x4s, there’s a space
to fit the need.”
Sam Martin explores the places
that define a man’s world in his new
book, Manspace: A Primal Guide to
Marking Your Territory (The Taunton
Press, 2006; $24.95). The book
includes photos of spaces dedicated
to things like collecting, sporting, and
working. Here are a few examples.
94
FINE HOMEBUILDING
A stable approach.
Photographer Matthew Benson transformed this two-stall
horse stable into a
studio. Benson salvaged and reused
many original materials, including the
railings on the loft.
Photos by Matthew
Benson.
Crafty acquisition. Soon after moving to a new house, John Morgan
secretly cleaned out the carriage
house in back. Before his wife knew
what was happening, Morgan had
taken over the outbuilding. Now
friends donate treasures banned
from their own homes. Photos by
Denise Prince Martin.
Against the grain. Wondering
whether a silo might make a suitable studio, architect and professor
Hank Louis bought one from a farm
catalog for $5500 and assembled it
on a concrete slab equipped with
radiant heat. Made from a salvaged
railroad trestle, the stair treads are
supported by metal rods and hang
from metal rods. Photos by Scott
Zimmerman.
A writer’s retreat. This
two-room, 425-sq.-ft.
backyard cabin does
double duty as a home
office and guest house.
The perfect place for
screenwriter Bill Kerby’s
collection of books and
odd assortment of furniture, the space also
includes a loft, a bathroom, a kitchen alcove,
and an eating nook.
Photos by Ken Gutmaker.
february/march 2007
95
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RESEARCH PRODUCTS • 2639 Andjon • Dallas, Texas 75220
96
READER SERVICE NO. 144
READER SERVICE NO. 224
READER SERVICE NO. 208
READER SERVICE NO. 188
FINE HOMEBUILDING
READER SERVICE NO. 108
QA
Start
paneling
in the
center
YOUR QUESTIONS—PRO ANSWERS
Paneled-ceiling tips
Q
My wife and I would like
to cover our ceiling with
tongue-and-groove boards. Do
you have any tips?
—BRIAN LENGEL
via email
A
Jim Blodgett, a remodeling
contractor in Roy, Wash.,
replies: It seems intuitive that
you’d start against one wall and
work across the room until the
ceiling is covered, but that’s not
the best way. Walls on opposing
sides of a room often are not
parallel, which causes the final
ceiling board to be tapered.
To minimize the tapered
effect, I start in the middle of
the ceiling and work toward
the edges. By starting in the
center, I can split the taper
against each end wall, which is
less visually jarring.
To begin in the center, mill
a spline from a piece of scrap
the same thickness and twice
as wide as the tongue, and
insert it into the groove of the
first board, in effect creating
a board with two tongues and
no groove. This same technique long has been a staple of
tongue-and-groove flooring installers, who call it a slip tongue.
This technique works well
for flat ceilings. For vaulted
ceilings, start at the peak, skip
the spline, and work down the
slopes. It’s also important to start
at the top on a shed-type sloped
ceiling (a ceiling that slopes in
one direction) because starting
anywhere else would make
it difficult to fit the nail
gun at the high point
where the ceiling
meets the wall.
Use construction adhesive if solid
backing is questionable.
Use a spline in the center
board to allow blindnailing.
Center board
On flat ceilings,
working away
from the center
minimizes the
effect of an outof-square room
by splitting the
difference.
21⁄ 2-in. nail
driven at an
angle through
tongue
On sloped
ceilings, start
at the top and
work down. This
lets you start
with a tightfitting miter
joint.
Bevel top boards for a
tight miter joint.
Q
Our house is on a slab,
and we’re planning an
addition that also will have a
slab foundation. We had to
repair some cracks in the old
slab. Is there anything we can
do to reduce the chances of
cracks in our new slab?
—JEFF SNYDER
Kent, Wash.
98
FINE HOMEBUILDING
A
West Coast builder Larry
Haun replies: The first
thing to do is to check with
your local building department. The building code might
require that you tie the old slab
to the new one. This typically is
done by epoxying short lengths
of rebar to the edge of the old
slab, as shown in the photo on
p. 100. Use a hammer drill to
bore a 5⁄8-in.-dia. hole at least
6 in. deep every 16 in. Clean all
dust from the hole before filling
it with epoxy and a 16-in. length
of #4 (1⁄2 in.) rebar. These rebar
stubs then can be tied to the
reinforcement in the new slab.
To reduce cracking in the new
slab, I suggest upgrading from
Drawings: Dan Thornton
Reducing the risk of cracks in concrete slabs
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READER SERVICE NO. 219
february/march 2007
99
QA
continued
standard 6-in.-sq. welded-wire
mesh to a grid of #4 rebar. John
Gibson, a friend of mine who
builds houses in earthquakeprone Southern California, routinely installs a 16-in.-sq. grid of
#4 rebar in his slabs; it’s a code
requirement in many areas.
The rebar grid is held together
with standard tie wire and is
elevated on 2-in.-tall concrete
spacers that we call dobies.
Although this approach adds
$200 or so to the construction
cost, it provides excellent
insurance against cracking.
When a slab is being poured
and the mud is being pushed
and prodded into place, standard welded-wire mesh often
is trampled to the bottom of the
concrete layer. If the mesh isn’t
cast into the center of the slab’s
thickness, it loses its ability to
reinforce the concrete. In contrast, the #4 rebar grid stays put,
springing back into place after
it’s stepped on. This is another
reason why upgrading to rebar
makes sense.
A rebar grid works better than steel
mesh to prevent cracks. Held together
with tie wire, a rebar grid set on 2-in.-tall
concrete spacers stays put during the
pour and the screeding. Wire mesh often
ends up at the bottom of the slab, where
it can’t provide structural support.
Anchor the new slab to the old one.
Use epoxy to set rebar stubs into the
existing slab, and tie them to the rebar
grid of the new slab.
Q
I’m having trouble maintaining the humidity in
my house during the dry winter season. The indoor humidity is around 20% to 25%,
while the outdoor humidity
is 40%. During summer, the
indoor humidity was around
60%, and outdoors, it was
80%. What gives?
—Keith Martin
Lorton, Va.
A
Bruce Harley, an engineer
and the author of Build
Like A Pro: Insulate and
Weatherize (The Taunton Press,
2002), replies: I’m going to an100
FINE HOMEBUILDING
swer your question in two parts.
Part 1: Why is humidity lower
in the winter than it is in the
summer? Part 2: What humidity level should I target?
First, though, I need to
explain that we’re talking about
relative humidity, not absolute
humidity. Relative humidity
(RH) is the amount of moisture in the air compared to the
amount of moisture the air is
capable of holding. A 50% RH
means that the air is holding
half the moisture that it’s
capable of holding.
The primary reason homes
dry out in winter is the air
exchange between indoors and
outdoors. Warm air can hold
more moisture than cold air,
so when cold outdoor air leaks
into a house and is heated to
room temperature, the relative
humidity (RH) drops (see the
simplified psychrometric chart
on p. 102). Warming the air is
like expanding the size of a
water glass without adding
more water. Because the glass
gets bigger, the glass is less full;
same amount of water, but a
smaller portion of the available
volume. For example, if 40°F
outdoor air at 40% RH is heated
to 70°F (without adding or sub-
tracting moisture), the air will
end up at about 10% RH. The
reason that the RH in your home
is higher than 10% is because of
indoor moisture sources (cooking, showering, breathing).
Air exchange can be driven by
leaks in the building envelope,
by mechanical ventilation, and
especially by ducts that leak into
attics, garages, or crawlspaces. If
you want to maintain a higher
relative humidity in winter, the
best way is to control or limit
air exchange (see my book for
more information).
Now, the second part of the
question: What is the right
Photos: roe a. Osborn
Where is the humidity going?
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instructions, product specifications, load capacities and allowable heights.
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february/march 2007
101
continued
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READER SERVICE NO. 48
102
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Warm air can hold more moisture than cold air
10
40°F
50°F
0%
60°F
R
60
%
RH
40
%
RH
70°F 80°F
Temperature
20%
Moisture content
summer. Air exchange in a
humid summer climate like
yours brings in warm, moist
outside air, cools it to room
temperature, and consequently
increases the relative humidity
inside the house.
What’s the best way to control
both excess humidity in summer and decreased humidity in
winter? Seal the building and
duct leaks, exhaust moisture
sources such as the kitchen and
the bathrooms to the outdoors,
and, most important, correctly
size the air-conditioning equipment. Oversize AC equipment,
which is much more common
than correctly sized equipment,
doesn’t run for long-enough
periods to extract sufficient
moisture from the air.
H
humidity? The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating,
and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) recommends
30% to 60% RH for optimum
health, so you’re not that far
off. Also, many experts agree
that you’re better targeting a
slightly lower RH range. In
particular, the high end of the
range should be 50% or less to
reduce the risk of mold growth.
Although extremely dry conditions can be uncomfortable, 25%
RH in winter is really not that
bad. And I don’t like to recommend humidifiers for houses.
Perhaps instead of concentrating on where the humidity is
going in the winter, you should
be concerned with where the
humidity is coming from in the
RH
90°F
100°F
110°F
When 40°F outdoor air at 40% RH leaks into a house, the air is
heated to around 70°F, which causes its RH to drop to around 10%.
The best solution isn’t to humidify, but to stop air from leaking into
the house.
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READER SERVICE NO. 9
READER SERVICE NO. 59
.ATURES
&INEST 3IDING
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READER SERVICE NO. 97
www.finehomebuilding.com
february/march 2007
103
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104
FINE HOMEBUILDING
READER SERVICE NO. 223
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7ANT MORE OUT OF YOUR TOOLS /UR NEW (80 ,ITHIUM )ON BATTERY GIVES YOU X THE RUNNING TIME OF .I#$ AND .I-( TECHNOLOGIES 0LUS ITS OVER
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READER SERVICE NO. 98
what’sthe
difference?
HELPING READERS MAKE CHOICES
N IS IT A CEDAR SHAKE OR A SHINGLE?
Learn to tell these two cedar products apart
I
t’s no wonder the terms shake and shingle often are confused. Both
products are used to cover roofs and walls, and both are made
primarily of western red cedar, although varieties in Alaskan
yellow cedar also are common. Shakes and shingles come in widths
from 3 in. to 16 in. and in a number of different dimensions and
textures that often look the same. Real differences emerge, however,
when you get into the nitty-gritty of how they’re manufactured,
graded, and installed.
Bill Duckworth is a woodworker and freelance writer.
Shakes are more rustic
Sawn or split in four
different styles, shakes
come in thicknesses from
1⁄ 2 in. to 1 in. and greater.
Shakes are less uniform
than shingles. Because
of the irregularity among
individual shakes,
30-lb. roofing felt must
be interwoven between
each course for added
moisture protection, a
step not needed with
shingles. Shakes are
primarily available in two
grades. Premiums feature
100% edge grain; No. 1
shakes can have up
to 20% flat grain in
each bundle.
Shingles are cut precisely
2
4
2
4
1
3
1
3
Every shingle is tapersawn to a specific
thickness, never handsplit, and the surface
either is untouched, is
sanded smooth, or is
grooved to resemble
the ruggedness of
a split shake. Basic
shingles come in three
sizes: FiveXs are 16 in.
long and 0.40 in. thick;
Perfections are 18 in.
long and 0.45 in. thick;
and Royals are 24 in.
long and 0.5 in. thick.
Shingles are further
distinguished by grade
(No. 1 Blue Label,
No. 2 Red Label, No. 3
Black Label).
3. No. 2 Red Label
A quality grade for general
applications. Some flat grain
and sapwood are permitted in
this product.
• Perfection: $122 per square.
Sawn on both sides for a
semitextured surface and
a stronger shadowline than
a similarly sized shingle.
• Commonly available in
premium and No. 1 grades.
• Premium: 18 in. by 5⁄ 8 in.;
$200 per square.
2. Certi-Split Straight-Split
Produced by machine or by hand
with no taper. Also known as a
“barn shake.”
• Available in premium grade
only.
• 18 in. by 3 ⁄4 in.; $200 per square.
106
FINE HOMEBUILDING
3. Certi-Split Hand-Split
Resawn Split face with a rustic
appearance; taper-sawn on back.
• Available in premium and
No. 1 grades.
• Premium: 24 in. by 3 ⁄4 in;
$238 per square.
4. Certi-Split Tapersplit
Hand-split with a froe and mallet.
• Available in premium grade only.
• 24 in. by 1⁄ 2 in.; $236 per square.
1. No. 1 Blue Label
The highest grade of shingle;
consists of 100% clear, edgegrain heartwood.
• Perfection: $200 per square.
4. No. 3 Black Label
A utility grade for economy
applications. These shingles
are a mixed-grain product that
has knots.
• Perfection: $94 per square.
2. No. 1 Blue Label
Alaskan yellow cedar
• $220 per square (on average,
expect to pay 5% to 10%
more for Alaskan yellow cedar).
For more information, visit the
Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau
at www.cedarbureau.org.
Photos: Krysta S. Doerfler
1. Certi-Sawn Tapersawn
(((%& '
Traditional Doors
Bar n and Garage
4Overhead and
sliding styles
4True divided
light windows
4Insulated
4Standard and
custom designs
The Maine Door Company
17A White Birch Lane, York, ME
www.mainedoors.com 866.379.4265
READER SERVICE NO. 70
READER SERVICE NO. 91
# ) &#$
$ &%
#% # %#% $
$ !$% & ' #! $ # %
$% % $%&#
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READER SERVICE NO. 126
www.finehomebuilding.com
READER SERVICE NO. 217
what’sthe
difference?
CONTINUED
N POWER MITER SAWS
Direct drive or belt drive?
DIRECT DRIVES ARE LESS EXPENSIVE
If you’re in the market for a chopsaw, you’ll find a
big variety to choose from. More than 50 models
are available, priced from less than $90 to well
over $500. One way to refine your search is to
choose either a direct-drive or a belt-drive unit.
On direct-drive saws, the motor’s drive shaft also
serves as the arbor where the blade is mounted.
This basic design makes the saw less expensive and
fairly compact. However, it’s easier for motor vibration to be transferred directly to the sawblade,
which can result in some less-than-perfect cuts.
Direct-drive saws generate roughly 10% more
rpm (revolutions per minute) than belt-drive units.
More rpm can be beneficial when cutting wet
material or extremely hard wood, such as ipé decking, for example.
From a user’s point of view, the most obvious feature on a direct-drive saw is its inability to make
Photo: Rob Yagid
The direct-drive
Bosch (model 3912)
costs about $300 and
turns its 12-in. blade
at 4300 rpm—two
great features for
those who don’t mind
a single-bevel design.
Continued on p. 110
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READER SERVICE NO. 137
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READER SERVICE NO. 69
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108
FINE HOMEBUILDING
READER SERVICE NO. 176
READER SERVICE NO. 66
what’sthe
difference?
CONTINUED
equally angled cuts in both directions. This is
because the motor housing limits cutting depth
and also prevents the saw from beveling in
two directions.
BELT DRIVES ARE MORE VERSATILE
This $400 beltdrive DeWalt saw
(model DW716)
spins a 12-in.
blade at 3600 rpm
but has the added
advantage of dualbevel capability.
Photo: Rob Yagid
The motor on a belt-drive saw is offset from the
blade instead of in line with it. This design provides manufacturers with the clearances needed
to produce dual-bevel machines. When you can
bevel the blade both ways, you eliminate the
time and hassle of flipping and rotating stock
to make various cuts. Belt-drive saws also can
miter tall stock equally when cutting both right
and left miters, a capability direct-drive saws
lack. Belt-drive saws tend to be more expensive
than direct drives, and their belts can stretch,
wear out, or break over time, although that
problem is less common with modern-day belts.
James Kidd is a carpenter and freelance writer.
R ite in your
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READER SERVICE NO. 207
110
FINE HOMEBUILDING
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READER SERVICE NO. 221
egendary
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READER SERVICE NO. 6
Superior Clay fireplaces, based on Count
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READER SERVICE NO. 136
february/march 2007
111
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READER SERVICE NO. 212
www.finehomebuilding.com
february/march 2007
113
buildingskills
By John Ross
LEARn ThE BAsICs
step by step
trim the bottom of a door
T
he necessity of trimming
a door goes along with
remodeling projects where
the floor rises because of added carpeting, new tile, or extra layers of
subflooring (or in my case, whenever my penchant for area rugs gets
the best of me). As someone who
has remodeled other people’s homes
as well as my own, I have tackled
this project over and over. To trim a
door problem-free, I call on the same
skills I use for other finish-carpentry
projects, such as built-ins, wainscoting, and countertops.
Although you can use straightedge guides, special saws, and
zero-clearance throat plates to cut
finished work, I use a 4-ft. level
clamped to the door and a thin-kerf
blade in my circular saw for a task
like this (sidebar p. 116). I also use
a utility knife to score the door and
some masking tape to protect the
surface of the door. Finally, I need a
gauge block, which I usually make
from a piece of thin plywood.
John Ross is an assistant editor at
Fine Homebuilding. Photos by
Charles Bickford, except where noted.
114
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Mark and score where you’ll cut
1
Mark the door for the cut.
At the bottom of the door,
I put tape on both the hinge
side and the strike side (the side
with no hinges). I place the rug
against the closed door and
mark both pieces of tape 1⁄4 in.
above the rug. Because this
is an area rug and not wall-towall carpeting, I want the door
just to clear the rug after it is
trimmed.
2
Draw the cutline.
With the door set
on sawhorses, I connect the two marks with
tape, then use the level
to draw a straight line
between them.
3
Score the cut to
prevent tearout.
Clamped to the door,
the level works well as
a guide while I make
several shallow passes
with a utility knife to
score the cutline. As an
extra precaution, I tape
and score the end of the
door where the circularsaw blade will exit.
INSTANT
ANSWERS
A CLICK AWAY
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Fully indexed,
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corners, constructing built-ins, creating beautiful
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Take a look right now!
Explore FineWoodworking.com/Skills
www.finehomebuilding.com
© 2006 The Taunton Press
february/march 2007
115
CONTINUED
step by step
buildingskills
Use a gauge block to line up the cut
4
Make a gauge
block. This
scrap of wood is
cut at the exact
distance from the
edge of the blade
to the edge of the
saw’s baseplate.
6
Tape the door,
not the saw. To
avoid marring the
door, I put down
two layers of tape
next to the level. I
tape the work because it’s faster than
taping the bottom
of the saw and
because it’s easier
to clean up.
5
Use the
gauge block
to set the level
back from the
cutline. The block
should just cover
the scored line.
The level is secured to the door
with two clamps.
7
For general finish work, I
use a sharp thin-kerf blade
in my circular saw. It
removes less material,
so it’s easier on the saw.
I’ve had good results with
Freud’s Diablo 24-tooth
framing blade (D0724X),
which costs about $10
(www.freudtools.com).
Although you can buy
pricier finish-cutting blades
with more carbide-tipped
teeth, this framing blade
delivers smooth cuts and
doesn’t overwork the saw.
116
FINE HOMEBUILDING
8
Ease the edge. To prevent the bottom
of the door from splintering over time,
I ease the edge using a small block plane.
Some 80-grit sandpaper wrapped around a
sanding block works just as well.
9
The payoff.
The trimmed
door clears the rug
easily and doesn’t
look awkward.
Photo left this page: Courtesy of Freud
The right
blade for a
clean cut
Make the cut. I set the cutting depth
so that the blade just cuts through the
door (inset photo) and focus on the baseplate when making the cut. The baseplate
edge stays in contact with the level while the
bottom runs flat on the door. To prevent the
blade guard from dragging on the door, I
hold it retracted during the cut.
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READER SERVICE NO. 68
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february/march 2007
117
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READER SERVICE NO. 71
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118
FINE HOMEBUILDING
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READER SERVICE NO. 120
drawingboard
lessons in Residential design
By Russell Hamlet
Reading and drawing construction plans
o
ne often-overlooked
aspect of design is
the attention and
detail that should be given to
construction drawings. I firmly
believe that better construction projects come out of better
drawings. Drawings that look
chaotic result in confusion and
unintended consequences on
the job site. Whether you’re
drawing plans for your own
project or a project someone
else will build, or you’re
reviewing a designer’s plans, a
well-organized and clear set of
drawings quickly conveys
a great deal of information.
With good construction plans
and an understanding of how
to read them, the homeowner
has a better grasp of how the
design will look and function;
carpenters, electricians, and
plumbers have fewer questions
on the job site; and the project’s
design goals are more likely to
be met.
For plans to function properly,
it’s critical for dimensions to
be absolutely clear. The following plans show the types of
drawings and the organization,
labeling, and measuring system
that I use. Remember, it’s critical to check all dimensions. I
recommend having someone
else check the dimensions as
well, especially the builder.
Architect Russell Hamlet (www
.studiohamlet.com) is currently
designing a development of
LEED-certified spec houses on
Bainbridge Island, Wash. Drawings by the author.
120
FINE HOMEBUILDING
8
7
6
5
4
2
3
1
Floor plans show critical dimensions
1 Each should have a title, a date, and a scale.
Site and floor plans require a reference point,
usually a north arrow.
2 Consistently grouping dimensions on the left
side and bottom of the plan and placing notes
on the right makes it easy to navigate a series
of drawings and reduces clutter. It’s OK to
break from this pattern to clarify a detail.
3 Establish a starting point for layout
dimensions. Errors are reduced if all
measurements on site begin from a common
starting point. The starting point should be
one of the first elements built (a foundation, a
pier, or a column) or on an existing structure.
4 A note on the drawing should indicate how
all dimensions are measured. In this case, it is
from the face of the framing.
5 Plan dimensions should be drawn as you
would measure them if you were building the
house. For example, reference points should
be surfaces that you can hook a tape measure
on, such as the face of a stud or the top of
a plate.
6 Establish a hierarchy for locating dimensions
on the plan. Structural dimensions (such as
wall thickness) are closest to the drawing.
Slightly farther away from the drawing are
measurements for door and window openings.
As the work moves outward, masses such as
a porch or bump-out are another step away
from the drawing, and overall dimensions are
farthest from the drawing. Be sure to pull
each layer of measurements far enough away
from the drawing to leave room for notes
and symbols.
7 Dimensions less than 1 ft. should be noted
only in inches. Note dimensions 1 ft. and
greater in feet and inches. Exception: I note
cabinet details only in inches because that’s
standard practice in cabinet shops.
8 Reference numbers inside a circle indicate
additional drawings. A superimposed circle
and triangle indicate a cross section or
elevation. Matching references on each side
of the plan with an extended baseline show
the cut of the section, and the top of the
triangle indicates the perspective of the
drawing.
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READER SERVICE NO. 163
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READER SERVICE NO. 132
february/march 2007
121
drawingboard
CONTINUED
Section drawings show building systems
1 Items beyond the section in
4
the drawing should be shown
in lighter ink or pencil or not
at all to avoid confusion.
2 Targets establish important
elevations.
3 A base elevation of 100 ft.
0 in. simplifies the drawing.
This section drawing uses
the finish floor as the base
elevation or the starting
point. Setting the base
elevation at 100 ft. means
that there are no negative
numbers on the drawing for
footings or foundations.
5
2
1
4 Lists of materials for roof,
wall, and floor systems
provide a quick reference of
how they are built without
requiring a detail drawing.
5 A simple circle containing a
3
reference number indicates
a detail drawing showing
construction methods or an
additional view. Roof-edge
detail 18 is shown on p. 126.
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READER SERVICE NO. 82
www.finehomebuilding.com
february/march 2007
123
drawingboard
CONTINUED
Elevation drawings show exterior finishes
4
1 Windows and doors are identified
with their own symbols, a circle for
doors and a hexagon for windows.
The numbers inside the symbol
correspond to the purchasing
schedule so that the doors and
windows are matched easily to
their location.
2 A dashed angle on doors and
casement windows indicates that they
are hinged on the side of the point.
1
3
3 Details such as siding and trim can be
labeled “typical” when there are no
special instructions, and they do not
require dimensions on the drawing.
Similarly, items like partitions, doors,
and windows that are centered or
located on a grid or module or by
schedule do not require dimensions.
This reduces clutter on the drawing
and saves time.
2
5
4 Roof slopes are indicated with the rise
and run printed along a right angle.
3
5 Consistently putting notes on the
right side of the drawings makes
it easy to look up abbreviations or
assumptions.
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READER SERVICE NO. 53
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124
FINE HOMEBUILDING
READER SERVICE NO. 38
READER SERVICE NO. 47
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READER SERVICE NO. 74
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READER SERVICE NO. 55
february/march 2007
125
drawingboard
CONTINUED
3
Detail drawings show
construction methods
2
1 Use notes liberally on detail
drawings to anticipate jobsite questions. Rather than
trying to organize notes
on one side as on a floorplan, section, or elevation
drawing, place the notes
close to the item they
explain to avoid confusion.
2 I like hand-drawing the
details because it forces
me to think through the
construction process and
can convey more projectspecific information than
computer-generated
drawings.
1
3 Opposing arrows indicate a
change in material.
4 In general, the larger the
4
scale, the more detail can
be shown in the drawing.
READER SERVICE NO. 54
126
FINE HOMEBUILDING
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READER SERVICE NO. 151
mastercarpenter
beyond the basics
by john spier
Cornice returns
for a gable end
a quick drawing lists all the parts
John Spier is the author of For Pros by Pros: Building
with Engineered Lumber (The Taunton Press, 2006).
Photos by Charles Bickford, except where noted.
128
FINE HOMEBUILDING
30-lb. builder’s felt
Self-adhesive
rubberized
underlayment
Aluminum flashing
Shelf (1x10)
Subfascia
(11⁄ 2 in. by 25⁄ 8 in.)
15°
Fascia
(5/4 preprimed stock)
Soffit (1x8)
Ledger
(11⁄ 2 in. by 45⁄ 8 in.)
Frieze and bed
molding are
added later.
1
Strike the bottom
line. After installing a
waterproofing layer of
30-lb. builder’s felt, I draw a
level line out from the soffit
to mark the location of the
ledger. If the ledger is long,
I might snap a line across
the entire width of the
gable instead.
Drawing: Dan Thornton. Top photo: John Spier.
h
ouses built in the classical style, whether they’re
federal colonials, Greek revivals, or some variation, often feature cornice returns that complete
the transition of cornice and rake onto the gable end.
Although most modern houses are much less ornate,
I’ve found that three-dimensional returns are popular
with homeowners, who appreciate the extra level of
detail and depth that the returns add. To make these
little projections, I’ve developed techniques that reduce
the workload and have substituted modern materials to
keep the returns weathertight.
I build the frame with a ledger against the house,
a subfascia in front, and a piece of 3⁄4-in. plywood or
oriented strand board for the endcap. Because water
moves from the top down, I install the trim from the
bottom up, lapping each component over the previous
one. To prevent water from getting into the soffit, the
shelf and its flashing need to be notched into the bargeboard (also known as a rake board). I use a handsaw
and a chisel for this task. I also like to seal the notch and
other raw edges with an exterior-grade primer as I go. I
cover the shelf with flashing made from aluminum coil
stock and then flash the aluminum with a self-adhesive
rubberized underlayment such as Vycor (W.R. Grace;
www.na.graceconstruction.com). The rake trim and the
siding run down over this piece of flashing.
In the interests of consistency and efficiency, I like
to build one return first, getting the details right, while
at the same time cutting all the pieces for the other
returns. Then I can go around the house and assemble
the parts I’ve already cut. When I’m finished, the gableend details all look exactly the same. As my accountant
likes to say, “Many happy returns!”
First, I design the return in full-scale cross section
on a scrap of trim that I keep for reference as I cut
the parts. Experience has taught me that 15° of
pitch is about right; it looks flat from the ground,
but it’s steep enough to shed water and snow. A
fortuitous coincidence is that when I’m working with
a standard 8-in. overhang, I get both the ledger and
the subfascia with one rip of a 2x8. I use preprimed
cedar trim whenever possible.
www.finehomebuilding.com
february/march 2007
129
mastercarpenter
CONTINUED
2
trick of the trade
The ledger anchors the
return. After ripping a 2x8
on a 15° angle, I cut the ledger
to length and nail it off using
the level line as a guide. This
is a good time to add 2x soffit
blocking at the bottom of the
barge rafter.
130
Factor in some wiggle room
When I cut the notch in
the bargeboard, I need
to make the notch a bit
higher than the thickness of the shelf so that
the aluminum flashing
can slip into place
unimpeded. After cutting the lower kerf, I
use the 1x10 shelf as
a guide; an 8d common
nail below the board
(inset photo) acts as a
spacer that gives me
the correct height for
the upper kerf.
FINE HOMEBUILDING
3
Building out and up. After
nailing a plywood or OSB
end cap onto the ledger (photo
above left), I attach the beveled
2x subfascia to the end cap and
barge rafter. With the frame
complete, I like to work from
the bottom up; the soffit goes
on first (photo center), followed
by the two fascia pieces (photo
right). Before I fit the shelf, I
prime all the exposed edges to
give them a longer life.
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READER SERVICE NO. 180
Thomas
Compressors
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For tough, heavy-duty compressors for your job
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READER SERVICE NO. 77
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For more information on Thomas’ line of electric
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READER SERVICE NO. 110
february/march 2007
131
mastercarpenter
CONTINUED
4
Template the flashing.
After cutting the notch
(“Trick of the Trade,” p. 130),
I slide the shelf in and check
the fit. The inside end must be
trimmed to fit against the soffit blocking. Before nailing the
shelf, I use it as a template for
cutting aluminum flashing, and I
make sure to leave enough extra
to cover the edges of the shelf
and about 11⁄ 2 in. against the
house. After the shelf is in place,
I nail the flashing to the wall and
bend the flashing edges around
the perimeter of the shelf.
See ad index on pages 136-137 for reader service number.
5
Buttoning up. Self-adhesive rubberized
underlayment is the great modern alternative to lead flashing, especially in this situation. I lay a short piece across the end of
the shelf, then cover that with a longer piece
that also seals the flashing. With the return
protected against the weather, I can add the
last piece of rake soffit and start to install
the siding and the trim.
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FINE HOMEBUILDING
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See ad index on pages 136-137 for reader service number.
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Catalogs $5.00
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Store your treasured copies of Fine Homebuilding
in slipcases for easy reference again and again! Bound
in dark red and embossed in gold, each case holds
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Already own a pool? Ask about the
To place an order using your credit card,
call 1-800-888-8286.
Outside the U.S. and Canada call 1-203-426-8171.
www.finehomebuilding.com
• Wall Lanterns
• Post Lanterns
• Interior Sconces
• Chandeliers
• Antique Tin,
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• Large Inventory
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Also, the finest in Hand-Forged Iron
Hardware, Period Knob & Leversets,
Pewter, Tin & Redware and Much More.
Send $5.00 for our 64-page color catalog.
For Free DVD or Video Call
P.O. Box 26, Dept. 4027
Brewster, N.Y. 10509
Visit www.endlesspools.com/5535
www.historichousefitters.com
(800) 233-0741, Ext. 5535
800-247-4111
february/march 2007
133
See ad index on pages 136-137 for reader service number.
www.clarksforktimber.com
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a serious French range for serious chefs.
866-898-1655
When it comes to elegant
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1-888-347-0037 • www.rollout.net
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134
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See ad index on pages 136-137 for reader service number.
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february/march 2007
135
CLASSIFIED
The CLASSIFIED rate is $8.00 per word, minimum ad
15 words. Payment must accompany order. Send to Fine
Homebuilding, Classifieds, P.O. Box 5506, Newtown,
CT 06470-5506, or fax to 203-270-6310. E-mail to
ads@taunton.com The deadline for the April/May issue is
January 19, 2007.
FREE SHED PLAN, POST & Beam. Sheds, cabins, plans,
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MARBLE AND STONE FIREPLACES, columns,
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www.marbleunique.com
SUPER4SQUARE® A combination and rafter square
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L O O K AT O U R H O U S E N U M B E R S
www.housenumbersonly.com Please call for wholesale pricing. (541) 302-6482.
HICKORY FLOORING FOR SALE: ¾-in x 3-in, 4 ¼-in,
and 5-in, unfinished, millrun grade, starting @ $1.50 sq. ft.,
FOB Fredericksburg, TX. Oak and American Cherry also
available. Nice long lengths, 7-ft plus. Quality Hardwoods
(830) 997-6503. www.quality-hardwoods.com
H O M E E N E R G Y S O L U T I O N S . Wi t h o u r
help, you can build homes that use dramatically
less energy! We’re home performance specialists.
www.energysolutionsnow.com/design.html
STAPLERS AND NAILERS at www.nailzone.com.
Top brands of tools and fasteners. Visit our website.
800-227-2044.
COLLECTOR’S SPECIALTY WOODS “Rocky
Mountain Dry” lumber, tops, burl slabs, flooring, blocks, bases-showroom/millroom/wood yard;
www.cswoods.com (719) 746-2413. (CO)
CADEX & NIKLE pin nailers & pins, Flexeel air hose
and fittings at www.floydtool.com
KEEP THE AREA UNDER YOUR DECK DRY! DEK
Drain™ TOPSIDE™ for new construction. DEK Drain™
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(1-866-335-3724). www.dekdrain.com
Use reader service card–inside back cover
INDEX TO ADVERTISERS
For quick access to their websites, go to ADVERTISER INDEX at www.finehomebuilding.com
Reader
Service No.
175
ADVERTISER, page #
Reader
Service No.
AZEK Trimboards, p. 35
86
Abundant Energy, Inc., p. 47
209
Alaco Rolling Ladders, p. 103
113
Alternative Timber
221
Structures, p. 133
24
171
Amvic Building System, p. 21
129
Architectural Products by
Outwater, p. 99
77
Arcways, Inc., p. 131
38
ADVERTISER, page #
Reader
Service No.
Code Check, p. 112
135
Fantech, p. 118
Connecticut Screen
108
Festool, p. 97
Works, Inc., p. 124
161
3
Connecticut Stone Supplies, p. 110
Connor Homes, p. 135
Copemaster, p. 135
Coppa Woodworking, p. 99
173
Cor-A-Vent, p. 33
174
Cor-A-Vent, p. 124
178
Cormark
62
205
59
156
Reader
Service No.
219
82
ADVERTISER, page #
Innovis Corporation, p. 99
The Iron Shop, p. 123
Fine Woodworking.com, p. 115
179
Integrity Windows, p. 2-3
Flex Moulding, Inc., p. 133
180
Integrity Windows, p. 131
Fostoria Industries, p. 103
155
Kayne & Son, p. 133
Future Steel Buildings, p. 134
109
Keystone Retaining Walls, p. 37
Flex-Ability Concepts, p. 101
Kitchen & Bath Planning
Guide, p. 118
GE Infinity, p. 11
2
International, p. 133
Ball & Ball Reproductions, p. 25
ADVERTISER, page #
Gary Katz/OnSite
Productions, p. 131
Kitchen and Pantry, p. 107
85
Kreg Tool Company, p. 101
172
Bamboo & Rattan Works, p. 132
159
Correct Deck, p. 34
143
Bear Creek Lumber, p. 22
169
Crown Heritage, p. 27
49
124
Bensonwood Homes, p. 41
201
Cultured Stone, p. 23
141
Gorilla Glue, p. 21
87
Lacanche, p. 134
170
Granville Manufacturing, p. 15
96
Lancaster County Timber
131
Grate Vents, p. 37
73
Lennox Stairs, p. 127
Habitat Post & Beam, p. 29
40
Lhardware.com, p. 135
Hanover Lantern, p. 113
11
Lincoln Logs, Ltd., p. 48
64
Blue Ridge Timberwrights, p. 7
5
181
CMI/MiraTEC p. 9
208
Cabparts, p. 96
Calculated Industries, p. 129
99
217
DIY Granite.com, p. 7
198
Goddard Manufacturing, p. 133
91
David White, p. 107
Davis Frame Co., p. 125
212
15
Calvert USA, p. 37
133
Dec-Klip, LLC., p. 133
42
Hearne Hardwoods, Inc., p. 108
81
Cape Cod Air Grilles, p. 14
207
Deckrite, p. 110
34
Hearthstone Log
79
Carlisle Wide Plank Floors, p. 25
84
80
Carlisle Wide Plank Floors, p. 135
190
97
Cedar Valley Shingle
Systems, p. 103
74
Chadsworth’s 1.800.Columns, p. 125
92
Charmaster, p. 47
& Timberframes, p. 117
Direct Sales, Ltd., p. 46
Directions for Home
107
& Garden, p. 104
12
152
Drill Doctor, p. 7
111
35
Easy Coper, p. 26
98
Heartwood Pine Floors, p. 99
Heritage Building Systems, p. 133
Frames, p. 15
158
Lindal Cedar Homes, p. 104
127
M.L. Condon, p. 134
125
Maine Barn Co., p. 135
70
142
Makita U.S.A., Inc., p. 31
Historic Housefitters, p. 133
194
Max USA Corp., p. 15
Hitachi Power Tools USA, p. 105
Mayse Woodworking, p. 135
167
Eb-Ty, p. 96
223
Hohmann & Barnard, p. 104
67
Chief Architect, p. 41
192
Eldorado Stone, p. 12-13
119
Houseplans.com, p. 9
95
66
Chief Architect, p. 109
26
Elite Mouldings, p. 34
1
Hugh Lofting, p. 134
4
57
Clark’s Fork Timber, p. 132
222
Endless Pools, p. 133
31
56
Clark’s Fork Timber, p. 134
37
134
Classic Gutter Systems, p. 42
22
136
Clement Hardware, p. 132
FINE HOMEBUILDING
8
Hydronic Alternatives, p. 127
Engineered Wood
Association, p. 133
Exaktime’s Jobclock, p. 42
224
69
Maine Door Company, p. 107
Historic Doors, p. 135
Chestnut Specialists, Inc., p. 135
165
Kuffel Creek Press, p. 34
Goodwin Lumber, p. 16
Danbury Creek, Inc., p. 46
47
130
Incinolet, p. 96
Indian Valley Innovation, p. 108
220
202
Maze Nails, p. 49
McFeely’s Square Drive, p. 127
McGee Lumber, p. 134
Melton Classics, p. 24
50
Michigan Prestain, p. 18
51
Michigan Prestain, p. 111
185
Miller Manufacturing, p. 26
CLASSIFIED
Tree-Shrub SeeDLINGS. Direct from grower at
wholesale prices. Plants for landscaping, wildlife foodcover, timber and christmas tree production. free color
catalog. carINO NurSerIeS, PO box 538f, Indiana,
Pa 15701. 800-223-7075. www.carinonurseries.com
mILLWOrKfOrLeSS.com - entryway & Garage
Doors. huge selection. Oak, mahogany, walnut.
Vintage/mission, bob Timberlake, traditional & 8ft.
styles. Velux skylights, stairways, fireplace mantels,
plank flooring, iron-away. fast Service, low prices,
freight included.
carPeT DIrecT. Quality, value on residential
and commercial carpet since 1968. Samples available.
eastside carpets, Dalton, Ga. 1-800-654-6123.
hOW TO PLaN yOur hOuSe to suit yourself. Two-minute Guide. free. rhouseal@mac.com;
(732) 528-6566; ehe box 374f, brielle, NJ 08730.
becOme a hOme INSPecTOr without spending a lot of $$$. free information. (540) 372-9432.
www.homeInspectionbook.com
NOrDSTrOm hearTPINe. Quality name, quality
product. authentic reclaimed heartpine flooring, paneling,
trim. (843) 545-9447. www.nordstromheartpine.com
KeeP yOur fINe hOmebuILDING back
issues looking brand new. Store your copies of
Fine Homebuilding in slipcases for easy ref e r e n c e . $ 8 . 9 5 e a c h . To p l a c e a n o r d e r u s ing your credit card, call 1-800-888-8286,
outside the u.S./canada call 1-203-426-8171.
www.taunton.com/store/pages/slipcases_fh.asp
carLISLe WIDe PLaNK fLOOrS carlisle has
been hand crafting traditional wide plank floors for
nearly 40 years from hand selected antique & Old
Growth pines & hardwoods; crafted in widths from
4-in to 20-in. We ship anywhere with installation &
design options for any style home. free portfolio.
800-595-9663. www.wideplankflooring.com
Use reader service card–inside back cover
INDEX TO ADVERTISERS
For quick access to their websites, go to ADVERTISER INDEX at www.finehomebuilding.com
Reader
Service No.
71
aDVerTISer, page #
miracle Truss, p. 118
Reader
Service No.
18
122
monarch radiator covers, p. 26
187
mortar Net, p. 34
218
mountain Lumber co., p. 14
203
muro North america, Inc., p. 24
168
NcfI’s InsulStar, p. 40
137
National Wheel-O-Vator co., p. 108
106
163
New concept Louvers, Inc., p. 121
154
New energy Works
Timberframers, p. 102
63
20
7
44
rcD corporation, p. 134
radiantec, p. 18
102
rainhandler, p. 101
28
rapid rule, p. 133
132
rare earth hardwoods, p. 121
120
rechargeable battery
Reader
Service No.
41
105
aDVerTISer, page #
53
14
Vande hey raleigh, p. 22
Shuttercraft, p. 41
83
Veto Pro Pac, p. 121
Stairtool, p. 124
138
Steptoe & Wife, p. 133
151
rejuvenation, p. 127
213
Sun-mar corporation, p. 132
216
Waupaca elevator company, p. 45
176
reliance corporation, p. 108
136
Superior clay corp., p. 111
112
Weather Shield, p. 17
197
renick millworks, p. 47
Superior Walls, p. 48
147
What It’s Worth, Inc., p. 37
10
renovationexperts.com, p. 135
46
29
Tmf building Products,
New World Teak, p. 135
resource conservation Tech., p. 15
Nixalite of america, p. 135
resource conservation Tech., p. 42
17
North bennet Street School, p. 132
resource conservation Tech., p. 104
191
Telpro, Inc., p. 42
robinson residential
110
Thomas compressors, p. 131
146
210
Design, p. 133
LLc, p. 26
Tamlyn & Sons, p. 29
196
Timberpeg, p. 16
Safety maker, p. 37
123
Timberwolf Tools, p. 132
Paslode, p. 19
16
Safeway Stair, p. 134
177
Tool hangers unlimited, p. 133
Peters building Videos, p. 48
68
Salter Industries, p. 117
104
Totally bamboo, p. 133
206
Pine hall brick, p. 113
54
Sashco Sealants, p. 126
117
Trim-Tex Drywall
153
Pioneer millworks, p. 101
114
Trojan manufacturing, p. 25
48
Proclosets, p. 102
60
Schluter Systems, p. 45
58
Proctor Products, p. 47
76
Screw Products, Inc., p. 37
78
Protective Products, p. 139
30
Pure View railing co., p. 33
121
Quality hardwoods, p. 135
www.finehomebuilding.com
Products, p. 18
Winter Panel, p. 134
Wood Idea, p. 134
6
Woodwaiter.com, p. 111
23
Worth home Products, p. 29
94
yestermorrow, p. 127
140
york Spiral Stair, p. 113
225
Zehnder america, p. 122
61
Zipwall, Inc., p. 117
Truslock, Inc., p. 134
126
Tulikivi, p. 107
Select millwork, p. 47
33
ultimate Die corporation, p. 34
43
Shaker Workshops, p. 33
55
ultra-fin, p. 125
75
Shelter Institute, p. 99
193
uponor, p. 39
19
Shoji Designs, p. 133
144
upstate Door, Inc., p. 96
145
Windy ridge corporation, p. 42
186
Woodstock Soapstone co., Inc., p. 25
Inc., p. 21
Doors, p. 26
Williamsburg blacksmiths, Inc., p. 134
52
Woodport Interior Doors, p. 121
157
Poly Steel, p. 45
Williams & hussey, p. 29
21
215
189
200
65
Timberlane Woodcrafters,
Pan abode cedar homes, p. 25
Scherr’s cabinet and
Waterlox finishes, p. 29
Wood, Steel, & Glas Inc., p. 135
rousseau co., p. 41
Saw helper, p. 121
Warmly yours, p. 113
72
199
182
27
Warmboard radiant Subfloor, p. 26
Timberfab, Inc., p. 134
rollout, Inc., p. 134
214
89
13
166
Pacific Laser Systems, p. 43
Plankmaker, p. 117
Ward clapboard mill, p. 127
reggio registers, p. 131
139
45
103
Stand-up Guy, p. 15
& Soapstone, p. 41
Old World Stoneworks, p. 16
Vixen hill, p. 96
Softplan Systems, p. 131
Stairways, Inc., p. 104
renovationexperts.com, p. 103
211
188
160
9
Occidental mfg., Inc., p. 33
aDVerTISer, page #
Shutter Depot, p. 134
Snorkel Stove co., p. 135
116
Reader
Service No.
115
recycling, p. 119
New england hearth
183
32
aDVerTISer, page #
february/march 2007
137
greatmoments
in building history
l
ike most people with access
to a woodworking shop,
I have a long list of projects that my significant other
would like me to complete.
And like everyone else in this situation, I
haven’t the time to plan, build, install, and
then clean up after myself in the average
evening, Saturday, or weekend. Therefore,
I do what everyone else does: I postpone.
Some projects have been postponed for
days, weeks, even months. One particular
project—the bed for our master bedroom—I postponed for 26 years.
I always have hated to clean up every
day if a job isn’t complete, but because my
wife dislikes stepping over chopsaws in the
bedroom or ladders and compressors in the
living room, I end up having to stop work
several hours before I want to so that I can
clean up before she comes home. This
severely cuts into the amount of work that I
can finish in a day.
Ultimately, the need to balance projects
and tidiness led us to develop our own routine: My wife goes away for a weekend or
sometimes longer so that I can complete my
projects fully.
In the past, she has traveled to Calgary
(floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall bookshelf and
entertainment unit); Frankfurt, Germany
(front porch and two skylights); and for one
week, Nairobi, Kenya (the removal of three
wall sections, a phone nook, and a closet to
open up the living and dining rooms).
During one Labor Day weekend, she
and our three children went away so that I
could install wood flooring throughout
the house. I had removed all the furniture during the day and brought in all
the tools and materials I would need to
finish the job before they got home late
Monday evening.
By 6 p.m. Friday, they were gone, and
I had the compressor charged up. By 6:20, I
had the first row of flooring planks nailed
138
FINE HOMEBUILDING
Home Alone
to the floor.
By 6:30, I had
nailed my hand
firmly to the floor. A
carelessly swung nail gun
brushed against my hand
and fired a nail through the
webbing between my thumb and
forefinger and into the floor, trapping me securely.
The hammer that would enable
me to free my hand from the floor
was a mere 2 in. beyond the reach
of my outstretched foot. So was
the telephone—not that I was
willing to call anyone for help
because this predicament was
humiliating enough. Besides, I
could wait the three days until
my family returned; this could be
an effective way to lose that
10 lb. I had been wanting to shed.
Shortly after making this
decision, though, I realized
that I really needed to use
the washroom. I also was
getting bored and
knew I couldn’t just
lie around for three
days without something
better to do than watch
a line of ants slowly
making off with everything in the house that
wasn’t nailed down.
I stretched my body as
far as tendons, muscles,
bones, and the nail would
let me and was just able to
hook a piece of flooring with
my foot. I then used that board
to drag the hammer closer. Using
the back of my hand as the fulcrum point for the hammer proved
to be somewhat unwise and quite
painful. I used the piece of flooring
instead and managed to pry the
nail out of my hand just in time to
make it to the washroom.
I was able to complete the floor
and get it varnished before my
family returned home. Now,
though, whenever my wife goes
away, she takes me with her.
—Don Wilkinson, Stouffville, Ont.
!
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READER SERVICE NO. 78
A
fireplace puzzle
Scribing wood
perfectly to an
irregular surface is
hard enough, but
imagine having the
skill to cope stone to
stone. Jeff Gammelin
and his crew at Freshwater Stone of Orland,
Maine, regularly perform this wizardry,
crafting one-of-a-kind
walls and hearthscapes
from granite and other
native stone. Combining random shapes
and natural textures
with tightly fitted
joints has become a
trademark style.
This fireplace (codesigned by Elliott
Elliott Norelius Architecture of Blue Hill,
Maine) began as a
drawing, then turned
into a full-size jigsawpuzzle mock-up of
cardboard templates.
Slabs of granite roughly
8 in. thick were shaped
to template sizes,
fine-tuned, then put
together in the shop
for a test run. For
more inspiration, see
Fire Places by Jane
Gitlin (The Taunton
Press, 2006). Photo by
Brian Vanden Brink.
in stone