BRITAIN’S NO.1 FOR RENOVATORS, EXTENDERS & SELF-BUILDERS

Create
more space

Design ideas for open-plan
kitchen extensions

PLOT FINDING
SUCCESS

Expert tips for
locating your
dream site

YOUR ESSENTIAL
SELF-BUILD
CHECKLIST
Ensure your project
runs without a hitch

LANDSCAPING
MASTERCLASS

From outdoor lighting to sustainable design

EXPERT
ADVICE

External wall
insulation costs

Permitted
development

Passivhaus
ventilation

Renovating a
Georgian house

E D I T OR IAL
EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief Claire Lloyd
Editor Beth Murton
Deputy Editor Teresa Conway
Associate Editor Natasha Brinsmead
Assistant Editor Jo Messenger
Web Editor Amy Willis
Web Assistant Editor Sarah Harley
News Editor Joseph Mullane
Contributions by Seán O’Connell & Alex Burrows

FROM
THE EDITOR

ART
Art Editor Karen Lawson
Group Art Director Alison Walter
Contributions by Bryn Davies
MARKETING
Global Marketing Director Melanie Kay
Associate Marketing Director Eve Mulvaney
Head of Retention Anjuman Tariq
Marketing Manager Alicia Kennedy
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F

inding a suitable plot can be
one of the earliest hurdles
you’ll have to overcome on
your journey to creating
your dream home. A lack
of affordable building plots certainly
doesn’t make for an easy search, but
there are several ways you can increase
your chances of locating somewhere
suitable. Our guide on page 62 offers
expert tips on routes you could take,
such as leafleting local areas, buying a
run-down property with permission
for a replacement dwelling or looking
into potential custom-build sites in
your area or further afield. While there’s
no foolproof method for getting your
hands on a plot within your price range,
taking a multi-focus approach like this
can certainly increase your chances
of successfully getting your self-build
journey off to a good start.
If you’re already in your perfect
location but simply want to improve the
space you have, there’s lots of inspiration

inside this issue, too. Our guide to
open-plan kitchen extensions on page
86 offers plenty of food for thought to
help you plan this space effectively. I
know from my own house projects that
it’s incredibly easy to get caught up in
the more exciting part of choosing new
cabinets and flooring, and forget about
some of the more mundane but equally
important details that will have just
as much impact on how successful the
project is. My advice? In those very early
stages take your time to really drill down
into what you want to achieve and how
you want to use the finished space, and
you’ll reap the rewards later on.
Beth Murton, Editor

DON’T MISS!
Look out for our
gallery icon inside
the issue to view
additional imagery
of our stunning
real projects

homebuilding.co.uk 7

Unleash your imagination
& create your dream home!

27 – 29 Sept 2024
ExCeL, London
For three decades, the Homebuilding &
Renovating Show has been the trusted
companion of homebuilders, renovators and
home improvers, empowering people
all over the UK to create their dream homes.
The show is a source of inspiration, knowledge
and expert advice, and can provide you with
the tools you need to embark on a successful
project – however big or small.

See 100s of exhibitors
and 1000s of products

Get one-to-one advice

Attend inspiring seminars

Take part in our
masterclasses

Get 2 FREE tickets worth £36*
Book now at homebuildingshow.co.uk/hbr-aug
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108

MEET OUR
EXPERTS

From extension advice to the best ways to landscape
your outdoor space, our team is here to help…
126

MICHAEL HOLMES

Is our Director of Content
as well as an author and
presenter of numerous
TV shows.

TIM PHILLIPS

Is a quantity surveyor
and runs Quantiv.uk.
Tim has over 30 years’
experience across
the commercial and
residential sector.

“External wall insulation
may require a larger
initial outlay, but over
time, the energy savings
can frequently offset
the additional costs”

“Whether you’re looking to add space
for a growing family or improve the
value of your property, understanding
the key types of surveys is essential”

“If you have a plant in your garden
that fails, think about why it’s failed
and don’t automatically replace it
with the same plant again”

86

KRISTINA
CLODE

SARAH
HARLEY

Our assistant
editor has
renovated
and extended
a number of
properties.

“Even if you want your
kitchen extension to look
architecturally different
to your current exterior,
inside it still needs to
deliver a cohesive space.
The key to a successful
end result is careful
planning in advance”

A garden designer
with 23 years’
experience, she
set up her own
practice, Kristina
Clode Garden
Design, in 2010.

162

homebuilding.co.uk 9

C O N T E N T S

18

32

R E A L P R OJ E CT S

18

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT
Two professionals who work in the homebuilding industry
achieved a lifelong ambition when they built a bespoke
prefabricated home overlooking the Weald of Kent

32

HIGH PRAISE
One couple bought what was previously a gospel hall in a
Devon town centre and converted it into a double-height
Art Deco-style home with a roof garden and a geodesic dome

44

DEEP ROOTS
Have you ever considered building a home with ICF located on
sand dunes above a mine? The Bühler family have and, despite
numerous challenges, the results are absolutely incredible

96

CHANGE FOR GOOD
The result of a last-minute decision, this kitchen extension turned
out to be a labour of love that added significant space and value to
the detached period property

SPECIAL
OFFER

SUBSCRIBE AND
SAVE 40%
See page 84

10 homebuilding.co.uk

114

BACK TO BLACK
Architect Sam Tisdall and his wife Charlotte made the most of
their end terrace by adding a cool kitchen with dramatically dark
finishes and industrial touches

44

96

13

INSIGHT
News, products, workshops, events
and ideas for self-builders, extenders
and renovators

50

COASTAL HOMES
Do you like to be beside the seaside?
Here’s what you need to think about
when self-building on the British coast

ON THE COVER

62

14 TIPS TO FINDING
YOUR PERFECT PLOT
Industry-leading advice for how to
find your dream landscape

ON THE COVER

71

PERMITTED DEVELOPMENT
EXCLUSIONS
Our consultant explains how you can
bypass planning permission

ON THE COVER

76

RENOVATING A
GEORGIAN HOME
We show you how to faithfully repair
and restore your period home

ON THE COVER

86

OPEN-PLAN
KITCHEN EXTENSIONS
Plan ahead to make the most of your
new space with these crucial tips

114

106 EXPOSED STEEL BEAMS
How to create a thoroughly modern
look for your build project

108 SURVEYS FOR YOUR
EXTENSION PROJECT
Make sure you have all the required
aspects scrutinised ahead to ensure
smooth planning approval

124 5 WAYS WITH PLYWOOD
It’s time to reappraise this low-cost,
robust and versatile material for
interior usage
ON THE COVER

126 EXTERNAL WALL
INSULATION COSTS
It is increasingly popular as an
affordable insulator but what are its
long-term costs?

132 HOW TO BUILD:
SECOND FIX
Your self-build is taking shape! Here’s
what to expect at this exciting stage
when everything really comes together

139 FOCUS ON:
OFF-MAINS DRAINAGE
If your pipes aren’t connected to
the mains, here are your options for
streamlining your drainage system

152

143 ASK THE EXPERTS
Our panel of industry experts answer
questions on roof cladding, spray
paint, plaster, heat pumps and more!
ON THE COVER

149 PASSIVHAUS VENTILATION:
ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW
We answer the most important
questions involving this gold standard
in eco-friendly buildings
ON THE COVER

152 ILLUMINATING YOUR
OUTDOOR SPACES
Inspiration and advice for making
your garden into a spectacle of light
ON THE COVER

162 ECO LANDSCAPING
How to create a garden that’s in
harmony with your surroundings
ON THE COVER

168 SELF-BUILD FOR BEGINNERS:
PRE-CONSTRUCTION GUIDE
How to create schedules, deadlines
and ensure all your necessary
documents are in place

178 AMAZING HOMES
A series of red brick buildings form
this stunning home in Marlow

homebuilding.co.uk 11

INSIGHT
A round-up of the latest self-build and home renovation news, products
and events. By Jennifer Grimble

NATURAL LIGHT

IMAGE: BRENT DARBY

N

ew research from the Energy and Climate Intelligence Unit
(ECIU) has found that poor home insulation is adding £3.2
billion to our energy bills every year. Investment in home
insulation was cut by the government in 2013 and, as a result,
the rate at which homes are being upgraded is currently at
its lowest level for more than a decade. This news is supported by recent
data from Which?, highlighting that only 14% of households have made
improvements to their home insulation in the last five years.
If the rate of insulating homes hadn’t dropped, the ECIU suggests that an
additional 11 million homes could have benefited from energy efficiency
improvements by now. If those with a property EPC rating of D improved their
insulation to achieve a C rating, they could save £200 on bills a year. For
homes with lower ratings, the potential savings could be even greater.

Crafted from seagrass, the new
Pantanal lighting range from Nedgis
was inspired by the Pantanal region
of South America, which is the largest
tropical wetland area in the world.
Available for the wall or ceiling, each
light fixture boasts gorgeous braided
detailing, for beautiful light dispersion.
Priced at €79 each.

There has been a 420%
increase in internet searches
for ‘garden furniture
treatments’, as homeowners
look to protect their sets
following months of rain*

IMAGE (TOP RIGHT): NEDGIS *ACCORDING TO LUXURY GARDEN FURNITURE COMPANY, GARDENESQUE

Lack of insulation
adding £3.2 billion to
UK energy bills

homebuilding.co.uk 13

IMAGE: HOWDENS

TAKE IT TO THE BEDROOM

Kitchen specialists Howdens have branched out into bedroom
furniture, with the introduction of four new fitted wardrobe
ranges, each with an assortment of matching drawers and
bedside cabinets. The new ranges are available in multiple

styles and colours to suit every bedroom and budget. Quick
and easy to fit, they come with a 25-year guarantee and there
are four height options to choose from. To purchase Howdens
fitted bedrooms, book a free design appointment at one of the
800-plus Howden depots around the UK. POA.

I MAGE: GETTY IMAGES

MAJOR
FLOOD RISK
CONCERNS
Following this year’s higher-thanusual levels of rain, MyBuilder.
com has discovered that British
homeowners have major concerns
about the risk of flooding, with 11%
(or one in 10) admitting they are
worried about their home flooding.
Regionally, 19% of those living in
the south-west are anxious about
flooding, while 16% of people in the
east of England admit to having
concerns. 14% of Londoners and
15% of homeowners in the south-east
are also apprehensive about rising
water levels.

14 homebuilding.co.uk

HIDDEN HOB

Providing homeowners with a sleek, multifunctional and safe space to cook,
prep and dine, CookingRAK is an innovative hidden induction hob that’s fully
integrated into a porcelain countertop. The RAK Ceramics worksurface is highly
durable and resistant to heat, stains and scratches. Safe to touch, the surface
doesn’t heat up. Instead, electromagnetic currents only heat the cookware
placed on the hob. The system can be worked via remote control or through an
app, and the worktop can also be customised to mark out the hob. Available in
a range of colours, CookingRAK prices start from £1,150.

I N S I G H T

RUSTIC CHARM
Suitable for both indoor
and outdoor use, Lapicida’s
stunning new Bordeaux
Herringbone tile collection
is inspired by antique stone
flooring. Made from natural
limestone with an attractive
tumbled finish for an authentic
look, they can be used in
any space, including wet
environments, such as kitchens
and bathrooms. What’s more,
they can also be used to
create striking splashbacks
or feature walls and can be
laid in a variety of different
patterns. They are available
in three colourways: Argento
(pictured), Blue and Black,
and cost £154.80/m2.

DID YOU
KNOW?
62,000 UK residents
are vulnerable to the
impact of rising
sea levels*

BUILD
EVENTS
13-14
SEPTEMBER

OAKWRIGHTS’
WARWICKSHIRE
OPEN DAY
Warwickshire

BOOK OF
THE MONTH

THE HEALING HOME AND
GARDEN: REIMAGINING
SPACES FOR OPTIMAL
WELLBEING
Dedicated to helping
homeowners transform
their interiors into tranquil
spaces that promote mental
and physical wellbeing,
The Healing Home and
Garden will show you how
your property might be
perpetuating unhealthy
habits. Expert guidance
helps you to tap into your
intuition to rethink your
living spaces and create a
healing environment that
will ultimately make you
happier and healthier.

ENERGY BILL IGNORANCE
The energy experts at Utility Bidder
surveyed 2,000 UK residents to discover
their understanding of energy bills and their
approach to reviewing their statements. The
survey found that Manchester has the highest
percentage of people who don’t regularly
review their bills (22%) while 17% of people in
Cardiff don’t check their statements. Overall,
only 54% of respondents said they regularly
review their bills. Males (57%) are more likely
to review their energy bills regularly than
females (51%), and those aged 65 and over
have the highest percentage of respondents
who take the time to examine their bills (63%).

LONDON
HOMEBUILDING
& RENOVATING
SHOW
EXCEL, London

The UK’s biggest and
most informative
event for self-builders
and renovators will
bring together leading
brands and experts
over three days.

IMAGE: (BOTTOM) UK RADIATORS *ACCORDING TO RECENT FINDINGS FROM UTILITY BIDDER

*ACCORDING TO NEW FINDINGS FROM E.ON

27-29
SEPTEMBER

,

Find out more about
building an oak frame
home, by stepping
inside a real barnstyle self-build in
Warwickshire. Meet
the homeowners and
speak to Oakwrights’
design team about
your own project.

homebuilding.co.uk 15

I N S I G H T

SCOTLAND LEADS THE
GREEN REVOLUTION

New research shows that out of the UK regions Scotland
leads the way in heat pumps and solar panel installations.
In fact, six of the top 10 locations for UK heat pump
installations – and four of the top 10 locations for solar panel
installations – are in Scotland. Boiler installation experts
BOXT analysed public interest in different types of energy
efficiency solutions, as well as the regions installing the most
heat pumps, solar panels and EV chargers. The study found
that one in six households in the Outer Hebrides have an air
source heat pump (15%), while on the Orkney Islands almost
one in 10 (10%) have a heat pump.
RANK AREA

COUNTRY

% INSTALLING
HEAT PUMPS

1

Na h-Eileanan Siar
(Outer Hebrides)

Scotland

15%

2

Orkney Islands

Scotland

10%

3

Argyll and Bute

Scotland

7%

4

Shetland Islands

Scotland

6%

5

Ceredigion

Wales

6%

SHAKING THINGS UP

Lifestyle Kitchens has launched a new
collection, styled with a slim Shaker frame and
a traditional woodgrain-effect finish. The Salsa
range is available in three shades – Aegean
Blue, Cashmere and Grey – and all kitchens are
crafted in the UK. Buyers can opt for soft-close
doors and drawers, as well as breakfast bars,
island units and wine racks. Energy-efficient
LED lighting can also be integrated.
Prices start from around £5,000.

HEAT PUMP VISITING SERVICE LAUNCHED

A brand-new service from Nesta has been launched to help those considering installing a
heat pump. VisitAHeatPump.com is an online platform where householders can find heat
pump owners in their area and book a time to visit. Nesta hopes the scheme will allow
would-be heat pump owners to learn how they function in a home just like theirs. Users
can search using their postcode and 150 heat pump owners have already signed up
across the UK, from Bristol to Falkirk. London and central Scotland currently have the most
heat pump hosts. Book a visit, or sign up to become a host, at visitaheatpump.com

THREE

1

GOR GE O U S

BUILT TO LAST
The six-seater Anna outdoor dining range
is made from durable aluminium and
includes a long table, four chairs and a
two-seater bench in either Green or Black.
£949, atkinandthyme.co.uk

2

GA R DE N

NATURAL LOOKS
The Choncey Brent Lounge Set is made
from Acacia wood and wicker and
comes with two cushioned armchairs, a
two-seater bench and a matching coffee table.
£349.99, wayfair.co.uk

SE T S

3

STEEL AND STONE
Comfortable and modern, the Lombok
Black Outdoor Dining Set features a
powder-coated steel frame, finished with
polyrope. The table is topped with a weatherresistant stone composite. £800, ruma.co.uk

homebuilding.co.uk 17

18 homebuilding.co.uk

Replacing a tired 1960s bungalow with a bespoke
prefabricated contemporary house allowed retired
architect Helen Heslop Brunt and her husband
Martin to fulfil a long-held dream

homebuilding.co.uk 19

HOMEOWNERS
Helen Heslop Brunt and
Martin Brunt
LOCATION Kent
PROJECT New build
HOUSE TYPE Four-bedroom
detached two-storey house
SIZE 345m²
BUILD ROUTE Bespoke
prefabricated package
BUILD TIME Twelve months
COST A similar Baufritz house
would currently cost in the
region of £3,000/m²
WORDS Debbie Jeffery
PHOTOGRAPHY Baufritz

TIMELINE
Purchased plot
OCTOBER 2018
Design, planning discussions, site reports
JUNE 2019 — MAY 2020
Planning obtained
AUGUST 2020
Foundations complete
APRIL 2021
Timber frame erected
EARLY JUNE 2021
Watertight and secure
LATE JUNE 2021
First fix completed
NOVEMBER 2021
Second fix
JANUARY 2022
Completed
FEBRUARY 2022

20 homebuilding.co.uk

s an architect, Helen Heslop Brunt had worked for many
years on various projects for others and, together with
her husband Martin, had refurbished several homes,
but their dream was always to design and build a home
for themselves and their family. “We wanted a house
filled with light and positive vibes, with great living
spaces, both indoors and out, which Martin and I
could still enjoy as we grow older,” says Helen.
The couple had almost given up on their
self-build dream, due to the lack of available
plots, when Martin happened upon a tired
and over-extended 1960s bungalow online.
“The hillside site faces due south and enjoys
stunning views overlooking the Weald
of Kent,” he says. “It was exactly what
we were looking for, and I had just sold my business so we
could afford to go ahead.”

HONING THE DESIGN

The couple produced a written brief for the house prior to the
design stage. “Site and context were key factors, so breaking
down the building’s mass was important, to reduce its overall
impact,” explains Helen, who designed three linked volumes
with open interiors. “The planning process was particularly
onerous because it’s a village site that people notice, next door
to a conservation area.”
A multipurpose ground-floor games room, with a disabledaccess shower room, may be used as an accessible bedroom
suite if needed. “Upstairs, we wanted a generous master suite
for ourselves, as well as three hotel-style en-suite bedrooms
for our grown-up children, who had all finished university
when we built the house,” says Helen.

CHANGE OF DIRECTION

The couple had assumed they would follow a traditional build
route, with Helen completing the design, tendering to several
contractors, and then waiting for quotes. Discovering Baufritz
online soon changed their minds, however, and the concept of
a bespoke prefabricated house appealed, with all building and
project management handled by the same company.
“The single most important factor was that Baufritz gives
a price for the building even before you make a planning
application,” says Helen, who sent her hand-drawn, scaled
drawings to Baufritz’s architect in the UK to be translated into
CAD and 3D views. Minor tweaks were then suggested to suit
the building system and meet the couple’s budget, and a day
was spent at the Baufritz factory in Germany, with Helen and
Martin visiting the sampling centre and show houses.

A SPEEDY BUILD

“After we were granted planning permission in August 2020,
Baufritz and its UK groundworks partner swung into action,
demolishing the old bungalow and preparing the slab and
services from January 2021,” says Martin.
“While this was happening, we moved into rented
accommodation, during which time we chose the internal
fittings and finishes for the house with our project manager
and interior designer. At this point we were in lockdown during
the Covid pandemic, so we needed to communicate via Zoom

R E A L

P R O J E CT

N E W

B U I L D

“It’s always been my dream to design
us a beautiful eco house”
Above Facing
south and west, the
bespoke timberframed house takes
full advantage
of sunlight and
views. Natural
larch cladding,
Kentish ragstone
and ceramic roof
tiles enhance the
simplicity of
the design

homebuilding.co.uk 21

meetings instead of travelling back to Baufritz in Germany
as we would normally have done.”
With mounting excitement, Helen and Martin waited
for delivery of the factory-produced panels on site. “We’d
been told they would arrive on 1 June, and they arrived
bang on schedule,” recalls Helen. “Martin and I sat in the
garden in glorious weather and watched our house being built
together. It was such a thrill, and most of the ground floor
had been completed by the end of day one. The next day, the
ground-floor ceiling was in, and by day three it had a roof. The
house was secure by the end of day four. It was just amazing to
see it all go up so quickly.”
Once the shell was erected, the interior fittings could
be completed, with Baufritz organising everything from
underfloor heating to flooring, decorating and sanitaryware,
the installation of solar panels and the air source heat pump.

22 homebuilding.co.uk

Despite both Covid and Brexit impacting on the project,
completion was only delayed by four weeks and the original
cost remained fixed.

AN ENERGY-EFFICIENT HOME

“We both wanted our new house to have great eco credentials,
and Helen worked hard to get the roof area and pitch just right
for the solar panels,” says Martin. “An air source heat pump runs
on electricity, much of which is generated by the solar panels and
stored in two Tesla batteries, so our energy costs for the last year
were just over zero, which we’re delighted with.”
“We previously lived in a draughty Victorian vicarage, so our
new home feels particularly comfortable and convenient — it’s
also warm and well laid out,” says Helen. “After years spent
sketching ideas on the backs of envelopes, to be living in a house
I designed has surpassed all expectations.”

R E A L

P R O J E CT

N E W

B U I L D

THE KNOWLEDGE
SUSTAINABILITY
For retired architect, Helen, the focus was on the details when it came to
designing the new house, with clear crisp lines and masses of storage. The
scale of the building has been carefully developed, and materials were
selected to enhance the simplicity of the design and to meet sustainability
objectives. Baufritz’s patented natural insulation, together with tripleglazed windows, ensure that the house is both draught-free and airtight.
“Glazing and open corners take advantage of the stunning views and
sloping land to the south, in contrast with the more formal, enclosed
frontage on the northern entrance side,” Helen explains. “Three distinct,
linked volumes with mono or double pitched roofs relate the house to the
site as seen from afar, and the main roof pitch is optimised for photovoltaic
panels, while the brise soleils reduce unwanted solar gain in the summer.”

homebuilding.co.uk 23

24 homebuilding.co.uk

R E A L

Left Breathtaking
views over the Weald
of Kent are provided
courtesy of abundant
glazing, with the
picture window
timber framed to link
in with the natural
wood flooring. Direct
access to nature
is gained through
sliding glass doors

P R O J E CT

N E W

B U I L D

Top Solar shading
is provided to the
ground floor’s
glazed areas by
means of a small
balcony with a glass
balustrade and by
brise soleils on the
south and west sides
of the house where
solar gain would
otherwise be highest

homebuilding.co.uk 25

R E A L

Left and below
The open-plan
kitchen and living
room is spacious
and bright. The
Brunts’ love of sailing
is reflected in the
largely blue colour
scheme, while
pictures of sailing
scenes can be seen
here and throughout
the house

P R O J E CT

N E W

B U I L D

R E A L

Left A full wall
of glazing floods
the double-height
entrance hall with
light, illuminating
the bespoke timber
staircase with
industrial-style
detailing

P R O J E CT

N E W

B U I L D

Above An entire
wing has been
dedicated to the
main bedroom,
en suite, dressing
area, office and
balcony, with three
en-suite bedrooms
for adult children

homebuilding.co.uk 29

T H E

T H E

D E TA I L S
S U P P L I E R S

P L A N S

TIMBER FRAME HOUSE PACKAGE
Baufritz: www.baufritz.co.uk
PLANNING CONSULTANTS DHA
Planning: www.dhaplanning.co.uk

STORE
EN SUITE

EN SUITE

OFFICE

EN SUITE

EN SUITE
BEDROOM

BEDROOM

BEDROOM

GROUNDWORKS RM Construction and
Developments: www.rmconstructionltd.co.uk
FOUNDATIONS Glatthaar Keller:
www.glatthaar.co.uk
SOLAR INSTALLATION Sims Solar Ltd:
www.simssolar.co.uk

FIRST FLOOR
BEDROOM

KENTISH RAGSTONE WALL Traditional
Stone: www.traditionalstone.co.uk
KITCHEN Mounts Hill Woodcraft:
www.mountshill.com

BALCONY

GRANITE WORKTOPS Apex Masonry:
www.apexmasonry.co.uk
KITCHEN APPLIANCES Martins of
Hawkhurst: www.martinsofhawkhurst.co.uk

GAMES/
GUEST
ROOM

WARDROBES Ikea: www.ikea.co.uk
UTILITY/
PLANT

LIVING ROOM
CLOAKS

WC

KITCHEN/
DINING

GUEST
SHOWER

BATHROOM CABINETS Villeroy & Boch:
www.villeroy-boch.co.uk
FURNITURE BoConcept: www.boconcept.com

BOOT ROOM

GROUND FLOOR

T H E

B U I L D

BEFORE This tired 1960s bungalow
previously occupied the hillside plot with
views over the Weald of Kent

FOUNDATION The foundation was supplied
by Glatthaar Keller — a slab size of 218m2
with 100mm of insulation below

PANELS The Baufritz prefabricated modules
are delivered directly on to the site by 13
separate lowloader trucks

STRUCTURE The prefabricated modules are
then connected together in sequence to create
the house shell

ROOF The roof pitch is just right for the solar
panels. Its elements are built in the factory, with
tiles added immediately after house assembly

FINISHING The internal fit-out is completed
by Baufritz’s own contractors and other
specialist trades

30 homebuilding.co.uk

After converting a run-down gospel hall into a unique
1930s-inspired home – complete with geodesic dome – Alice
Deuchar and Daniel Schamroth pronounced it a resounding success

HOMEOWNERS Alice
Deuchar and Daniel Schamroth
PROJECT Conversion
HOUSE TYPE Detached,
two-storey, former gospel hall
SIZE 162m²
LOCATION Devon
BUILD ROUTE Builder,
subcontractors, DIY
BUILD TIME 12 months
BUILDING COST £117,000
in 2020
BUILD COST £235,000
VALUE £595,000
WORDS Debbie Jeffery
PHOTOGRAPHY Stags/
Alice Deuchar

TIMELINE
Purchased
NOVEMBER 2020
Planning approved
NOVEMBER 2021
Demolition, construction
JANUARY 2022
First fix
MARCH 2022
Second fix
MAY 2022
Dome built
JULY 2022
Roof terrace
NOVEMBER 2022
Completed
DECEMBER 2022

34 homebuilding.co.uk

hotographer Alice Deuchar and her musician
husband, Daniel Schamroth (known as
Shammy), were despairing of ever being able to
buy their own home when they came across a
disused gospel hall that had just come onto the
market in the small Devon town of Bradninch.
“We’re both self-employed and the mortgage
offer had fallen through on a chapel conversion at
the start of the pandemic,” says Alice. “We only had enough
money to buy a tiny flat, and so were looking for a renovation or
conversion project in the area.”
The couple had searched for a while without finding anywhere
they liked but were the first people to view the former gospel
hall, designed in 1930 by Sir Oswald Archer, which was later used
by the Salvation Army. “The last service was held there about
four months before, but the building was in a sad state, with
carpet stuck over floorboards and dead flies everywhere,”
recalls Alice. “Despite its dilapidated condition, I instantly fell
in love with the light and space, and we were lucky enough to
have our sealed bid accepted.”

PLANNING THE SPACE

The derelict lower-ground floor meeting room and toilets
were damp and hadn’t been used in years but overall, the brick
building was dry and solidly built, with a fairly new flat roof.
Using CAD software to play around with options and draw up
the plans herself, Alice could quickly envisage how to make best
use of the large double-height hall and smaller rooms at the rear.
A structural engineer confirmed that the internal walls which
Alice and Shammy hoped to demolish were not load-bearing, as
the hall had been over-engineered with huge steels spanning the
building. These caused some problems later on, however, when
it came to installing the new roof terrace staircase, which Alice
designed to fit snugly between the steels.
Built on a hill and flanked by cottages, the wedge-shaped
gospel hall was constructed on a piece of land that had once
been part of the village green, filling virtually the entire plot and
without the benefit of a garden. “The only way onto the roof was
by climbing a perilous-looking triple ladder at the front, and
although Shammy had clambered up over the parapet to take
a look, I’d never been up there,” says Alice. “From his video of
the amazing panoramic views, I knew we needed to apply for
planning permission to create a 16-metre-long roof terrace,
which would give us some much-needed outdoor space.”
The planning application took almost a year to secure, and at
that point, work could begin on site in January 2022. “We rented
a place just down the road, which was how we met our amazing
builder, who was the son of our then landlord,” says Shammy.

GETTING INVOLVED

Alice and Shammy were both hands-on throughout the project,
which involved dramatically reconfiguring the interior.
“Shammy did most of the painting and decorating, as well as
sanding and labouring,” says Alice. “There was no space for a
skip, so we were constantly removing rubbish from the site.”
As the building is situated in a conservation area, they were
unable to replace the single glazing but did refurbish the existing
timber windows. Underfloor heating has been laid throughout,
connected to an air source heat pump, with parquet-effect

R E A L

P R O J E C T

G O S P E L

H A L L

C O N V E R S I O N

Above Built on a
tight site in the heart
of a small Devon
town, the wedgeshaped former
gospel hall had no
garden space, but
now benefits from a
stunning roof terrace
enjoying panoramic
Devon views
Right Looking
through the periodstyle doorway
reveals an open-plan
space adorned with
a striking heron
wall painting

homebuilding.co.uk 35

The elegant double-height
living space incorporates an
open-plan kitchen, dining and
sitting areas. New kitchen
cabinets were built into the
angled walls and teamed
with quartz worktops

36 homebuilding.co.uk

R E A L

P R O J E C T

G O S P E L

H A L L

C O N V E R S I O N

“Because the
gospel hall was
built during
the 1930s, I was
keen to create
interiors in an
Art Deco style”
luxury vinyl floor tiles chosen for their
thermal efficiency. “Now that it has a few
scratches, the flooring looks even more
authentic,” says Shammy.

ART DECO STYLE

Where original wooden steps had
previously led up onto an open stage in
the main hall, the couple built a new
partition wall to create a main bedroom
on the former stage, with an en suite in the
small former kitchen. This wall has been
decorated with a mural of flying herons
by a talented artist friend and creates a
striking focal point directly opposite the
main entrance door.
Predictably, the wedge-shaped rooms
caused issues when fitting the kitchen
cabinetry and planning the interiors, but
the result is a stunning and thoughtfully
designed home brimming with unique
character and quirky features.
“Because the hall was built in the 1930s,
I was keen to create sleek interiors in an
Art Deco style, with all the electrical
wires chased into walls,” says Alice,
who upcycled and reclaimed a number
of items to suit her theme, all the while
working to a tight budget. She converted
the large total-immersion font, which
was built from bricks during the 1970s,
into a practical wine cellar that is accessed
through a hatch in the floor, and she also
designed the new staircase to the decked
roof terrace, creating a cosy music room
space below for Shammy.
The couple say the open-plan hall is
ideal for parties, and the new layout makes
best use of all the space. “Being able to
build a roof terrace unlocked the hidden
potential of the flat roof and gives us a
fabulous birds-eye view across rooftops
to open countryside,” says Alice. “It’s the
perfect finishing touch.”

homebuilding.co.uk 37

Above Alice
designed Art Deco
inner fanlights to
reflect the age of the
gospel hall, while
parquet-effect vinyl
flooring adds to the
period feel
Right The original
steps up to the former
stage were retained
and now lead up
to the couple’s
bedroom suite.
Reclaimed furniture
was used to create
a centrally placed
dining area

38 homebuilding.co.uk

R E A L

Top Alice designed
the staircase to the
roof terrace using
two sets of stringers
from Stairbox,
which have been
joined together by
carpenters, saving
around £20,000

P R O J E C T

G O S P E L

H A L L

C O N V E R S I O N

Above The
open-plan room
was designed to
accommodate the
couple’s lifestyle,
and the space under
the staircase makes
an ideal music room
for Shammy

homebuilding.co.uk 39

R E A L

P R O J E C T

G O S P E L

H A L L

Above A former
utility room
was converted
into the stylish
1930s-inspired
en suite, with a
vintage table as
its centrepiece
Left The reclaimed
bath cost just £40,
with contrasting
wall and floor tiles
incorporated for
maximum impact

Right Steps lead
up to the main
spacious bedroom,
where the original
wall panelling
was retained to
add character

C O N V E R S I O N

THE
KNOWLEDGE
THE GEODESIC
DOME
“We had planning permission
for a triangular glass structure
on the roof terrace, but this was
going to cost £50,000 to build,
and we weren’t even that keen
on the design,” says Shammy.
“There’s a watertight electronic
roof hatch, which can also be
operated by our phones, but we
needed something to protect
the opening if it rained.”
After scouring the internet,
Alice and Shammy discovered
a Polish company offering
hurricane-proof polycarbonate
geodesic domes in kit form,
reminiscent of those found at
the Eden Project. Their chosen
model cost €3,000 and was
erected in just one day, on a
wooden base which is sealed
with fibreglass. “It’s a little
retreat up there, where you
can lie on your sun lounger in
all weathers and drink coffee
looking out at the stunning
view or stars,” says Alice.

Serving as both a sunroom and a protective
surround to the staircase hatch, the futuristic
polycarbonate dome is made from structurally
rigid triangular elements and is able to
withstand all weather conditions

T H E

T H E

D E TA I L S

P L A N S

S U P P L I E R S
INTERIOR DESIGN, PROJECT MANAGEMENT
Alice Deuchar: www.alicedeuchar.co.uk

EN
SUITE

KITCHEN

GEODESIC DOME Hypedome:
www.hypedome.com

BEDROOM

STAGE

KITCHEN, QUARTZ COUNTERS Howdens:
www.howdens.com
TERRACING

HALL

SMART LIGHTING & SOUND SYSTEM
Loxone: www.loxone.com

KITCHEN/DINING/
LIVING ROOM

PENDANT LIGHTS Pooky Lighting:
www.pooky.com
DOME

WC

GROUND FLOOR BEFORE

GROUND FLOOR AFTER

ROOF TERRACE

WC

MEETING
ROOM

T H E

BUILDERS Cody Tree and Tom Baker:
07713 267366

AIR SOURCE HEAT PUMP, UFH Neutral Energy
Solutions: www.neutralenergysolutions.co.uk
BEDROOM

BEDROOM

LOWER GROUND BEFORE

STAIRCASE STRINGERS Stairbox:
www.stairbox.com

STRUCTURAL ENGINEER Daniel Wilson:
07722 069268

SHO
ROOWER
M

WC

LOWER GROUND AFTER

B U I L D

PARQUET-EFFECT LVT FLOORING
Project Floors: www.project-floors.com
LVT SUPPLY AR Carpets & Rugs:
www.arrugs.co.uk
MURAL Liz Gordon: 07496 766176
ROOF DECKING RGB: www.rgbltd.co.uk
VENETIAN PLASTER Jesse Howe: 07944 797187
TILES Devon Tiles & Bathrooms:
www.devontiles.co.uk
BIOETHANOL FIREPLACE Westbo of Sweden:
www.westbo.net

FLOORING Removing the carpet tiles to
reveal the door to the total-immersion font

PREPARATION How the hall looked before
building the curved dividing wall

C O S T S
BUILDING, MATERIALS

INTERIOR The gospel hall prior to starting
work on the conversion

KITCHEN The old downstairs galley kitchen
before transforming into a bedroom

ROOF TERRACE

£6,000

WINDOW RESTORATION

£2,000

GEODESIC DOME, BASE &
INSTALLATION

£5,000

PLUMBING, ELECTRICS

£25,000

AIR SOURCE HEAT PUMP,
UNDERFLOOR HEATING

£14,000

KITCHEN

£10,000

BATHROOMS

CEILING One of the first jobs was to remove
the old hardboard ceiling covering

FRAMEWORK Erecting frame to demonstrate
visibility of intended dome to the planners

£120,000

£5,000

FLOORING

£10,000

OTHER

£38,000

TOTAL

£235,000

homebuilding.co.uk 43

A lifetime of experience helped the Bühler family create
a sumptuous five-bedroom home constructed on top of
sand dunes which rest over 17th-century mines

he land acquired by Mark and
Joanne Bühler was a virgin sand
dune next to Perranporth beach
in Cornwall. “17th-century maps
showed mine shafts underneath
our plot, and it had been fenced off as dangerous for
over 50 years,” says Joanne. So why would anyone
buy land with so many issues? For Mark and Joanne
it was simple. “We were looking for a home that
would suit all the family. We immediately fell in love
with the site, set high up in the dunes, with amazing
views of the sea — and it was just a few steps to the
most beautiful three-mile-long beach.”
The couple were also drawn to the “funky,
modern” design in the existing planning
permission. Having secured the plot by
sealed bids, Joanne and Mark wanted to keep key parts of that

design but make the property larger. They turned to the architect
of the original design, Justin Stephens, who redrew the plans and
helped them secure permission for a sumptuous five-bedroom,
five-bathroom home with a top mezzanine level and large
terraces. Contemporary in style, the house’s upper storey
is cantilevered over the ground floor at an angle to make the
most of the sunsets.
Having worked in property development for 27 years, Mark
and Joanne have a great deal of experience, which was invaluable
at all stages, from involvement in redrawing the plans to solving
Covid-related challenges. But nothing could have prepared them
for managing construction on a sand dune above a mine

ON SHAKY GROUND

Working with a specialist company, Mark and Joanne
commissioned two specialist surveys of the site, which involved
digging and drilling. The process is designed to check for voids in

HOMEOWNER Mark and Joanne
Bühler
LOCATION Perranporth, Cornwall
HOUSE TYPE Self-build home of
contemporary design
SIZE 335m²
BUILD ROUTE Architect and main
contractor
CONSTRUCTION ICF with local
stone and render facing
BUILD TIME 18 months
LAND COST £352,000
(in 2019)
BUILD COST £1.36m
CURRENT VALUE £1.98m
WORDS Alexandra Pratt
PHOTOGRAPHY
Unique Homestays /
David Curran

TIMELINE
Purchased
SEPTEMBER 2019
Site clearance and environmental checks
APRIL 2021
Piling begins
MAY 2021
Roof structure and tiling
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021
First fix
JANUARY–APRIL 2022
Second fix
APRIL–OCTOBER 2022
Driveways, boundaries and gardens
JUNE–OCTOBER 2022
Bespoke stairs and balustrade
SEPTEMBER 2022
Completion
OCTOBER 2022

46 homebuilding.co.uk

the ground left by shafts. To the couple’s relief,
none were found. “It was a gamble,” admits
Mark. “It would have been at least £50,000 to
cap a mine shaft.”
Mark and Joanne hoped to build using
standard strip foundations, so they had vast
amounts of sand removed from the site.
However, they realised these conventional,
cheaper foundations wouldn’t be possible and
agreed to more expensive pile foundations,
with a total of 70 required to adequately
support this 335m² property.
The home was constructed using ICF (see
panel overleaf ) by their structural engineers
who had launched a construction side to their
business. With Covid restrictions preventing
travel to Cornwall, Mark and Joanne hired
Emrose Construction via a Zoom meeting.
The relationship was excellent, and Mark
and Joanne were impressed with all the local
contractors who worked on the site.

STAYING LOCAL

“The quality of craftsmanship was amazing,”
says Joanne. Those local connections saved
the day when the locally quarried stone that
clads both the exterior and some interior
walls, ran out before their job was completed,
despite having been ordered in advance.
“The wife of one of our contractors found
a second-hand supply for us online,” says
Joanne. “That was the only way we could
finish the internal wall.” That stone is part
of a limited palette of materials consistent
throughout the property and key to the design.
“We wanted the house to be sympathetic
to its surroundings,” says Joanne. “It also
had to withstand coastal weather and be
energy efficient, quiet and warm.” Since gas
is unavailable, the couple chose an air-source
heat pump from Worcester Bosch for the
underfloor heating and hot water. An initial
requirement to reset the pump manually by
pressing a button proved inconvenient, so
Mark contacted the manufacturer, who added
a wi-fi monitor to avoid the need for attention
when the family are not around.

SPLASHING OUT

While the cantilevered first floor was their
biggest expense due to the amount of steel
required, it is the mezzanine Mark and Joanne
regard as their biggest extravagance.
“We had no idea how good the view would
be,” says Joanne. “Our architect and builder
warned it would be very expensive due to
the steel and engineering, but it’s now our
favourite spot to have morning coffee and
watch the waves.”

After a career spent creating neutral spaces,
Joanne was finally able to spread her creative
wings and put her own tastes first, when it
came to the interiors. “This was so exciting, I
could use colour and choose what I wanted,
but it was a lot of hard work, too.” Not only
did the couple start planning the interiors
a year and a half before the project was due
for completion, but they also had the sofas
custom-made by a local furniture maker.
“The design is striking and contemporary
on the outside and we didn’t want to feel
disappointed by the interior,” says Joanne.
“It had to be strong in design and practical,
but also comfortable, with luxury at the
forefront.” That luxury is in the details, such
as the Lusso Stone bathroom sinks, each of
which has a unique character, and a handmade
kitchen with a waterfall quartzite worktop.

A SERIOUS MISSTEP

The most striking internal feature is perhaps
the floating staircase against a stone feature
wall, but achieving this brought significant
delays and financing risks. A commissioned
staircase never appeared, despite the couple
paying a £33,000 deposit, so after a significant
delay, Joanne and Mark had to commission
another staircase from a different supplier. It
was about to get worse.
“The new supplier discovered the frame
(installed by the original supplier) was of
poor quality, the treads could be snapped off
and were set at different levels. The wall had
to be ripped open and new welding done.”
This additional work meant a delay in the
completion certificate being issued, which
pushed their end date into late 2022.
“Mortgage rates were climbing fast,” says
Mark. “Our mortgage was expensive when we
applied for it in June, but it seemed a positive
bargain by the time the certificate was issued!”

A FINE RESULT

Throughout the build, Mark and Joanne
challenged themselves to do things better.
Now they feel there isn’t anything they would
change. “It’s been the result of 27 years of
experience,” says Mark. “This is for us and
we’re not selling, so we would regret it if we
hadn’t done everything properly.”
After all their hard work, they now have a
property – which they’ve named ‘Stratum’
– that the whole family loves. “Our two kids
are as excited as we are,” says Mark. Joanne
agrees: “As a family, we are thrilled with the
result. The views here are better than in Bali
and sitting in the hot tub watching the sun go
down over the sea is amazing.”

R E A L

P R O J E C T

C O A S TA L

N E W

“The views here are better than in Bali
and sitting in the hot tub watching the
sun go down over the sea is amazing”

The local stone
cladding is
Trebarwith Blue,
which weathers to
grey and sand tones.
Mark insisted they
have a fire outside,
while the circular
fire pit was their
builder’s suggestion

B U I L D

Joanne chose a serene colour scheme for the
interiors, using Farrow & Ball’s Shaded White
on the walls and Drop Cloth on the woodwork

Joanne compares the
elegant contemporary
lighting by Tom Dixon, in the
stairwell, to jewellery that
completes an outfit

R E A L

P R O J E C T

C O A S TA L

T H E

SPOTLIGHT ON
BUILDING WITH

ICF

ICF (insulating concrete formwork) remains a
relatively uncommon approach to construction
in the UK, despite its advantages. ICF is made
from expanded polystyrene (EPS) blocks, which
are held together with plastic or metal fasteners
and laid in an interlocking system. These forms
are braced with steel reinforcement, designed to
a structural engineer’s calculations. Concrete is
poured into this formwork, which is then allowed
to set, and the insulating polystyrene remains on
both faces of the new wall. A moisture barrier is
usually applied to the outside, especially as there
can be a small risk of moisture via the plastic ties
(as plastic and concrete don’t really mix). Then,
any conventional facings can be used on both the
interior and exterior, with the Bühlers choosing
a mixture of local stone and render.
Mark and Joanne were attracted by the
strength of the building. ICF is virtually
indestructible and can withstand winds of up to
250mph — more than adequate, even by Cornish
weather standards. It is also possible to design
unusual, complex or curved buildings, which are
energy efficient and have little need for repair.
ICF construction is rapid with entire storeys
created at once. Yet there are some things to
consider. As Mark and Joanne discovered,
relatively few building firms have experience of
working with ICF and those that do can be very
expensive, which could negate the savings against
conventional construction. Once a building is
completed, it can also be difficult to remodel,
so advanced planning and absolute certainty
in your design are essential.

S U P P L I E R S

T H E

B U I L D

D E TA IL S

P L A N S

FIRST FLOOR

LIVING
AREA

DINING AREA

KITCHEN
WC
UTILITY
TV ROOM

PATIO

GROUND
FLOOR

BEDROOM

ARCHITECT SPS Architectural:
www.spsarchitectural.co.uk

EN SUITE

DRESSING
AREA

STRUCTURAL ENGINEERS
Emrose Engineering:
www.emroseengineering.co.uk
BUILDERS Emrose Construction:
www.emroseconstruction.co.uk

N E W

BEDROOM

EN SUITE

EN SUITE

BEDROOM

QUANTITY SURVEYORS Crossley Hill:
www.chsurveyors.com
KITCHEN Duchy Designs:
www.duchydesigns.com

WC
BEDROOM

BATHROOMS Lusso Stone:
www.lussostone.com

PLANT
ROOM
BEDROOM

LIGHTS Tom Dixon: www.tomdixon.net

EN SUITE

EN SUITE

SOFAS P&C Upholstery:
www.pandcupholstery.co.uk
GLAZING Green Circle:
www.greencirclewindows.com

GARAGE

HEATING Worcester Bosch:
www.worcester-bosch.co.uk
HOLIDAY RENTAL Stratum is available
to rent via Unique Homestays:
www.uniquehomestays.com
homebuilding.co.uk 49

WORDS: DEBBIE JEFFERY

50 homebuilding.co.uk

The seaside is a dream location for many, but coastal homes
must be robust enough to withstand weather extremes and
salt air. These UK self-builders show us how it’s done

R E A L

P R O J E C T S

“The hatchery
was clad in robust
corrugated metal
to withstand the
elements and
to blend in with
the surrounding
heathers and
greenery.”
CAROLINE SHORTT,
BARC ARCHITECTS

Petrina Shortt and Séamus Cox have
converted a former sea urchin hatchery
into a stylish, energy-efficient home on
an exposed site in the wilds of West Cork,
just metres from the sea. Previously a large
commercial shed with a galvanised roof,
the three-bedroom house nestles into the
coastline right above a granite cliff, looking
out across the water. “Storms can literally
shake the windows, and the vibration of
giant rocks rumbling in the sea are even
felt inside the house,” says artist Petrina.

Barc Architects’ bold design convinced
the local planners to reclassify the
industrial building for residential use,
with skylights and floor-to-ceiling
seaward-facing glass ensuring that the
vaulted living/dining/kitchen space allows
light to flood into the property.
Cedar was used to highlight entrances
and break up the mass of dark cladding,
with a sheltered terrace formed on the
eastern side of the property to combat
stormy coastal winds.

IMAGES: F22 PHOTOGRAPHY

Converted sea urchin hatchery

homebuilding.co.uk 51

R E A L

Access denied

IMAGES: UNIQUE HOMESTAYS

Peter Burridge and Tracey Gilpin faced numerous challenges
when they decided to build a new beach house on their
dramatic cliffside plot perched high above a Cornish beach.
“The original old wooden-clad bungalow had no foundations,
but there was mains water and electricity,” Peter explains. “We
decided we could make the figures work if we rented it out, and
some time later we demolished the old structure and built a
sustainable replacement.”

P R O J E C T S

Finding a builder willing to tackle such a small project with
limited site access proved extremely difficult and transporting
concrete for the raft foundation 200 metres down a cliff was
a major issue.
With its elegant, curved zinc roof, angled wooden porch and
subtle palette of predominantly grey materials, the new cabin
remains within the footprint of the previous building, with a
ridge height just a few centimetres higher than its predecessor.
Orlagh is available for holiday rentals with Unique Homestays.

R E A L

P R O J E C T S

Scottish
seclusion

IMAGES: UNIQUE COTTAGES

Sitting within the pretty village
of Salen on the foreshore of Loch
Sunart, Tigh Na Mara – Gaelic
for ‘house by the sea’ – commands
impressive views across the
water and the hills beyond. The
contemporary new oak-framed
house was designed by Roderick
James Architects, based on a grid
of oak posts and beams that allow
for future adaptations as a family
grows — known as the Evolution
House concept.
Built in one of the most stunning
locations in the British Isles, the
house is available for holiday rental
with Unique Cottages and enjoys
access to the loch from two private
beaches. Three glazed walls in the
open-plan living area create the
feeling of being surrounded by
water, and the peninsula offers a
dramatic backdrop of magnificent
mountains and rugged moorland
alongside a coastline of stunning
white sands.

“A truly amazing site on the Ardnamurchan
peninsula, far west coast of Scotland
— worthy of a very special house.”
PETER SMITH, RODERICK JAMES ARCHITECTS

homebuilding.co.uk 55

R E A L

P R O J E C T S

Seaside
restoration

IMAGE: JULIET MURPHY

Sandra and Ant Robinson
ploughed all their time, money,
and energy into restoring a
run-down coastal property
in the quaint Devon village of
Maidencombe, working manually
on site to complete the mammoth
project. Just 500 metres from the
beach, the 1920s brick building
was formerly a small hotel that

had fallen into disrepair and
required extensive renovation.
“It was a bit of an ugly duckling,”
says Ant. “A tacked-on extension
had been poorly built and there
was an old conservatory with a
sloping floor.”
Ant took on the role of project
manager, working on site and
employing local trades on a day
rate. Internal walls were taken
down and part of the roof was
replaced, with 25 new windows
installed and a new glazed balcony
designed to enjoy the stunning
sea views. A steel framework now
supports the large open-plan
living/dining/kitchen, while new
stud walls were constructed on the
first floor of the spacious holiday
rental, which you can see at
www.maidenseahouse.co.uk

homebuilding.co.uk 57

R E A L

“Unlike the previous 1980s property
on the site, the new house is orientated
to maximise spectacular views up
and down the coast, with outdoor
living on both levels.”

IMAGE: JENNY SAUNDERS

TIM FRY, LOYN & CO ARCHITECTS

P R O J E C T S

Echo of Deco

Designed with a nod to the Miami Art
Deco style, Carole and Chris Hinde’s
contemporary new home occupies an
enviable clifftop site overlooking the
Bristol Channel. “We asked our chosen
architect, Loyn and Co, for a modern
house sympathetic to the Art Deco style,
to make the most of the amazing views
to the south and east,” says Carole.
Constructed from a combination
of traditional cavity blockwork, with
a timber roof and floors, the dwelling
benefits from the site’s orientation and
aspect through high levels of glazing,
with photovoltaic panels concealed at
roof level. “We’re so close to the coast
that the planners insisted on marinegrade materials, including doors and
windows,” says Chris.
Both the house and garden have been
designed to be as low maintenance as
possible, and privacy was retained by
incorporating limited opaque vertical
windows in the north wall, with highlevel horizontal windows to the west.

homebuilding.co.uk 59

R E A L

P R O J E C T S

Rustic retreat

IMAGE: MARK WATTS

When Tina Peters’ long-term partner, Terry
Deacon, inherited a small ramshackle hut
on the cliff overlooking Cornwall’s Whitsand
Bay, they drew up plans themselves to build
a timber-framed extension, change the
external plastic cladding to cedar, install
new doors and windows, and replace the
roof covering with metal sheeting. Sadly,
Terry died part way through the project, but
Tina continued the work, and now Verdun
is available for holiday rental through
Boutique Retreats.
“I was particularly pleased with the
triangular glazing, which had been my idea,”
says Tina, who also installed floor-to-ceiling
triple-glazed doors, which can be pulled
back in warm weather. Now with a lofty
double-height ceiling, and handmade steel
doors dividing the bedroom from the main
living area, the bright, vintage space offers
a relaxing beach chalet bolthole in
Cornwall’s forgotten corner.

homebuilding.co.uk 61

Looking to start your self-build
journey? Follow our advice on
how to be one step ahead when
searching for your dream location

E X P E R T

1

Keep an open mind

Perfect plots rarely exist, so having very rigid requirements of what you
are looking for – such as a level site or a greenfield location – could create
insurmountable difficulties for yourself. Try to be flexible where you
can and manage your expectations. Think about exactly why you want to build,
what you want to achieve, what elements are essential and where you could
possibly compromise. By relaxing your brief just a little you could open up
your options quite a bit further — it’s worth bearing in mind that sometimes
challenging plots can yield the best designs.

2

Be realistic with your budget

“Before starting on your plot search, it’s really important
you know what you can afford,” says Mark Stevenson,
self-build expert and former managing director of
Potton. “If you only have £100,000 to buy a plot and the market
for the land you’re looking for is generally in the region of
£200,000, you’re set to fail. So crunch the numbers and prove
that you can deliver the project within budget. If you can’t afford
the market rate for what you want, rejig your plan and either
raise more capital or downscale your ambitions. It’s worth having
your plan reviewed by a specialist self-build mortgage broker.”

3

Get to know the area

Really focus on the location you’re interested in and
do plenty of research. As well as the classic routes,
there are many different ways of finding land, so
familiarise yourself with the towns or villages in the area.
Think outside of the box and use tools such as Google Maps
and Streetview or the Ordnance Survey Plan to identify plots
of land, small houses on large sites and potential gaps or
backland plots that could be ripe for development.

4

Don’t dismiss custom-build plots

Custom-build homes are self-build properties facilitated
in some way by a developer who may project manage the
construction with their own build team. While these differ
from self-build plots, you will still end up with a unique home that
you’ve had an input in designing without some of the frustrations
and development risks. Some plots provide the opportunity for a
single, one-off property, while others are part of a development.
A guarantee of planning consent will already be in place with
services such as gas, electricity, water and sewage included. Custombuild plots provide a hands-off approach and can be very attractive
to those wanting to build their own home and many councils now
collaborate with builders to make plots available. Another option is
to look for a package company that also helps source plots.
“The success of custom-build sites comes from making selfbuilding more accessible, often grabbing the attention of people
who are frustrated with the existing property market,” says James
Buchanan, Oakwrights’ custom build manager. “Clients can clearly
identify the advantages of building their own bespoke high-quality
home and that custom-build plots de-risk and simplify the process.
Oakwrights currently have plots for sale in six locations, including
in phase two of the award-winning Webbs Meadow, and over 40
plots in the design and planning pipeline.”

WORDS: JO MESSENGER IMAGE: JEREMY PHILLIPS

F

inding a plot for a
self-build isn’t always
easy, as the chances are
you will be up against
stiff competition from
builders, land finders and other
potential self-builders, but knowing
where to start and putting in the
legwork will set you in good stead
to find your ideal location.

A D V I C E

homebuilding.co.uk 63

5

IMAGE: JEREMY PHILLIPS

Know different
plot types

A garden plot offered these homeowners the
chance to build a contemporary steel-frame
house with large open-plan living space

With a more visionary
approach, you could
visualise what others might not.
Infill plots, for example, occupy
gaps between other buildings.
This includes land not in use,
previous access to land already
been sold off, or unregistered
plots. Garden or backland
plots – usually at the rear of an
existing property – refer to sites
where a residential property
already exists.
A ‘brownfield site’ is land
which had a previous planning
use that may have ceased — such
as a builders’ yard or industrial
or commercial site. Class Q
agricultural buildings, such as
barns, aren’t included with the
brownfield designation but The
Town and Country Planning
(England) Order 2015 allows the
change of use of an agricultural
building to a dwelling.
Greenfield land is previously
undeveloped space — not to be
confused with green belt land
which has legal status.

6

Don’t hunt with the pack

Prime building plots not only have high price tags but can be quickly snapped up by other
interested buyers. By changing your approach you could find opportunities that others
might not see. Look ‘off market’ and consider options where you might be able to negotiate
directly. Land that has an obvious problem shouldn’t be instantly dismissed, either, it might be
something that can easily be overcome and that is reflected in the price.

TOP TIP
Inexperienced plot buyers can waste time dilly-dallying
when they find a plot, worrying that there could be
hidden problems or that they might be offering too much
money. This can be frustrating for the plot
seller and if there’s doubt over the buyer’s
commitment, they may end up accepting a
more confident offer from, say, a builder.
Sometimes it pays to be decisive.
Mark Stevenson,
self-build expert

64 homebuilding.co.uk

7

Talk to people

Don’t be afraid to
let local people know
you are looking for
a plot. Post ads on notice
boards and on social media,
keeping your wording simple,
so you don’t come across
as a developer — you could
even offer a finder’s fee to
encourage leads and tip-offs.
Don’t rule out knocking
on doors or writing to
homeowners to see if they’re
interested in selling off land.

Often seen as competition
for potential sites, builders
may not seem like potential
collaborators, but smaller
businesses who might not
be interested in developing
land, could have knowledge
of potential sites. But beware
of any conditions meaning
you have to use them for
the construction at a high
rate. Architects, trades and
residents who know the area
might also be worth having a
chat with, too.

E X P E R T

9

Register with estate agents and auctioneers

A D V I C E

Not all large estate agents will be able to help you when looking
for land as many aren’t interested because the commission they
receive is less than that for properties. That said, small local
agents and those that run auctions are worth contacting and registering
with. Don’t just leave your details, visit them if you can, so they get to know
you and ring regularly for any updates. If you are planning to sell your
current property and rent while looking, consider using an agent who is on
board with your search for a potential plot as well.

10

Use specialist search engines

Specialist websites such as Homebuilding &
Renovating’s Plotfinder (see page 69) are a useful
resource for not only seeing what’s on the market,
but for doing research, sounding out prices and gaining useful
knowledge to get ahead of your competitors. You’ll find all sorts
of plots – from land with no planning permission to those with
everything in place – plus potential renovation projects. “The
website holds details of thousands of plots and properties for sale
around the UK,” says Plotfinder Manager Sophie O’Reilly.

11

Work with a specialist land finder

8
IMAGE: MARK WATTS / OAKWRIGHTS

Visit planning
departments

Applications for
planning permission
approval to build on a piece
of land become a matter of
public records. Therefore,
anyone can go into a planning
department and ask to see the
Planning Register. You’ll find
records of all the applications
– and decisions, once they
have been reached – and
some councils publish these
on their website. Look for
recent applications for single
houses — especially outline
plans that don’t have detailed
drawings in place. If you spot
one where approval has not
come through yet, take the
applicant’s details as you
could approach them directly
before anyone else has seen
it and before it officially goes
on the market.

While these often focus on finding land for multiple plots, there
are some agents that offer a service for those looking to build
an individual property. Their assistance can often be expensive,
but they can be a useful resource if you are looking for land in a different
area, or don’t have time to put in the legwork yourself. Be sure to provide a
comprehensive brief of what you are looking for, details of your budget and
agree terms of engagement, i.e. the cost and terms of payment and what level
of service they are providing. Avoid non-specific agreements where you are
required to pay a monthly fee.
This oak frame home was built by Oakwrights and
is part of the Webbs Meadow custom-build site

E X P E R T

12

Don’t rule out land that doesn’t
have planning approval

“The trouble with looking for land that already
has planning approval is that everyone else will
have the same idea, which creates a highly competitive market,”
says Mark Stevenson.
“Successfully searching requires a broader approach and
land without planning should be a key target. While this has
more risk, my key advice on this is that you should never buy
a plot without planning consent when you could secure an
option to purchase instead.
“This will allow you to get an approval in place before
handing over your money. And to make sure you buy a

TOP TIP

A D V I C E

developable plot, engage a planning consultant to ensure that
planning approval can be secured.”
“Acquiring planning permission for unconsented land can
entail a significant financial commitment, including design
costs, survey costs and submission fees,” says our expert
planning consultant, Simon Rix. “These costs can be managed
and minimised with the guidance of a planning consultant.”
Equally, don’t be put off a plot if it currently comes with
planning approval for a property that isn’t to your liking.
A developer will usually submit plans for an uncontroversial
build, for the easiest route to gain outline planning permission.
There could be an opportunity to upgrade this to achieve the
type of house you want to build.

An old bungalow was demolished to make way for
this sustainable new-build home, which won the
Homebuilding & Renovating Awards 2023

“The cost of your plot plus your
build costs and a 20–30% margin
should equal the end value of
your finished development, so
calculating an accurate estimate
of your build costs is
essential to determine
how much you should
pay for a plot.”
Michael Holmes,
Director of Content
and Product
Development,
Homebuilding
& Renovating

13

Demolish and replace

Today, many self-builds occur as a result
of an existing home being demolished and
rebuilt. Often this is because the building
is poorly designed, not suitable for renovation or too small
for the value of the land it sits on. On the plus side, this
means that the principle of a house is already established,
so you won’t be battling with planners for change of

use. But, while your potential self-build might not be a
profit-making exercise, it’s important to consider if it is
viable. Do your research and understand the financial
consequences of taking this route. It’s worth checking
your proposal first by having a ‘pre-app’ meeting with the
local planning department, as failure to secure planning
permission will stop your project dead in its tracks.

14

IMAGE: JULIET MURPHY

Question ‘bargain plots’

Unfortunately, there are some unscrupulous companies who offer
what appear to be prime sites at bargain prices, but without
planning approval. While they suggest that planning consent may
be given at a later date resulting in a prime site, the fact is there is a chance
that it won’t. If something appears to be too good to be true, insist on seeking
independent advice first, before parting with your money.

homebuilding.co.uk 67

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P L A N N I N G

C L I N I C

PERMITTED
DEVELOPMENT
EXCLUSIONS
How to understand whether your project
qualifies for Permitted Development and
if you are able to use this planning route

SIMON RIX

IMAGE: BRENT DARBY

Is a professional
planning
consultant and
runs Planix.UK
Planning
Consultants Ltd.

Right Houses
in National
Landscape areas
are subject to
different rules
for Permitted
Development

A

s a planning consultant,
my first task is to advise
my clients on the easiest
way to achieve their goals.
Usually, that means first looking
to see if they can use the Permitted
Development (PD) route for their
project. You may not know it, but
PD rights are not universal across
the whole country. There are
geographical areas where some of
them are limited and others don’t
apply at all. The rules covering
Permitted Development are many

and varied, but in this article I’m
going to focus on the issue of those
geographical areas where there
are exclusions and limitations to
Permitted Development rights.

THE EXCLUSION SYSTEM
Permitted Development is a
national system of rules that
defines certain circumstances
where planning consent has been
deemed to have already been
given, automatically. If a project
meets the requirements, then no

planning application is needed,
although for some PD projects, a
type of halfway-house application,
called a ‘prior approval’, will need
to be submitted to the council.
Whether you think your project is
covered by Permitted Development
or whether you think you need
prior approval or not, the first thing
to do is to figure out if your site is
in one of the geographical areas
where Permitted Development
rights are different. These are:
National Parks, the Broads,

IMAGE: JAMES MERRELL / FUTURE

P L A N N I N G

C L I N I C

National Landscapes (formerly
known as AONBs), Conservation
Areas, land within World Heritage
Sites, ‘Article 4’ areas and sites
of special scientific interest.
National Parks, the Broads, Areas
of Outstanding Natural Beauty
/National Landscape Areas,
Conservation Areas and land
within World Heritage Sites are
called Article 2(3) areas in the
technical rules covering Permitted
Development rights.

AM I IN A PERMITTED
DEVELOPMENT
EXCLUSION AREA?

You may think these areas are rare,
but there are actually vast swathes
of the country covered by one or
more of them.
How can you find out if you live
in one of these areas? Usually your
council’s website will have some
kind of mapping system that should
give you this information. Some
of these are quite easy to find and
use, some are most definitely not.
If you are finding it difficult, then
get a good planning consultant to
advise you. After all, it’s better to
know for sure than to guess. Once
you do know if you are in one of
these areas, then you can work out
the implications.

REAR AND SIDE HOUSE
EXTENSIONS

If your house is in any of the
article 2(3) areas, then extensions
beyond the side walls of the
original dwellinghouse are not
Permitted Development; and rear
extensions with more than one
storey would not be Permitted
Development, either.
Also, Permitted Development
rights don’t cover rear extensions
in article 2(3) areas, or on sites of
special scientific interest, if they go
beyond the rear wall of the original
dwellinghouse by more than four
metres for detached houses, or

Above Article
4 directions
can also restrict
Permitted
Development
rights

three metres for any other house.
It’s important to note that the
‘original dwellinghouse’ means
the state the house was in when it
was first built, or on 1 July 1948, if
it was built before that date.

CHANGES TO THE
ROOF OR WALLS OF
A HOUSE

If your home is in an article 2(3)
area, then cladding any part of a
house with materials such as stone,
artificial stone, pebble dash,
render, timber, plastic or tiles is
not Permitted Development and
requires a planning application.
Similarly the enlargement of a
house consisting of an addition
or alteration to its roof does not
count as Permitted Development
in article 2(3) areas.
Again for houses in article
2(3) areas, for the installation,
alteration or replacement of a
chimney, flue or soil/vent pipe
on a dwellinghouse to count as
Permitted Development, then it
would have to avoid being on a

“If a project meets the requirements, no planning
application is needed, but for some PD projects, a type
of halfway-house application is required”

wall or roof slope which fronted
a highway. Also it would not be
Permitted Development in article
2(3) areas if it was on either the
side or the principal elevation
of the house. The installation,
alteration or replacement of a
microwave antenna is not covered
by Permitted Development for
houses in article 2(3) land, either.

OUTBUILDINGS,
GARAGES, SHEDS,
SWIMMING POOLS

Subject to restrictions, in many
areas Permitted Development
rights mean you are allowed to
install swimming or other pools,
enclosures and/or outbuildings
within the ‘curtilage’ of your house
without a planning application.
‘Outbuildings’ include such things
as garden sheds, other storage
buildings, garden decking and
garages, but it would never
include anything that would be
used as separate self-contained
accommodation or if the use of the
outbuilding was for primary living
accommodation, i.e. if it contained
things such as a bedroom,
bathroom, or kitchen. But if your
house is on article 2(3) land,
then any buildings, enclosures,
pools or containers sited on land

homebuilding.co.uk 73

“An Article 4 direction can remove all or some Permitted
Development rights within a designated area to
safeguard architectural heritage or visual amenity”
between a side wall of the house
and the boundary of the land
surrounding the house (i.e. the
edge of its curtilage) would not
be Permitted Development, so
would thus require a planning
application. You would also
need a planning application if
more than 10m2 of ground would
be covered by any proposed
buildings or pools that would be
more than 20m from any wall
of the house.

IMAGE: SIMON MAXWELL

‘ARTICLE 4’ AREAS

An Article 4 direction can remove
all or some Permitted Development
rights within a designated
area. This means all or some
developments that would normally
be allowed under Permitted
Development elsewhere would
require a full planning application
within the Article 4 area.
The specific Permitted
Development rights restricted by
an Article 4 direction can vary
depending on the local planning
authority’s concerns and the
character of the area.
Local authorities might use
Article 4 directions to safeguard
the architectural heritage or visual
amenity of Conservation Areas.
Restricting PD rights for extensions,
alterations, or new buildings helps
ensure development respects the
area’s character.
Examples of restricted Permitted
Development rights with Article 4
Directions include:
● Building extensions or
outbuildings
● Creating new dwellings
through Permitted Development
rights, for example, when
converting agricultural buildings
● Installing certain types of satellite
dishes or solar panels
● Changing the use of a building
(for example, from residential
to commercial).
Before undertaking any

74 homebuilding.co.uk

development, it’s crucial to
check with your local planning
authority to see if your property
falls within an Article 4 area and
what Permitted Development
rights, if any, are restricted. This
will help determine whether you
can proceed under Permitted
Development rights or if a full
planning application is necessary.
Not all areas with special
designations – like Conservation
Areas, for example – automatically
have Article 4 directions in place.
The local council will then make the
decision on whether to implement
an Article 4 direction based on
their specific concerns.
While Article 4 directions restrict
Permitted Development rights,
they don’t necessarily prohibit
development entirely. They simply
require a full planning application,
allowing for a more thorough
assessment of the proposal’s

impact on the designated area.
By understanding how Article
4 directions affect Permitted
Development rights, you can
ensure your development plans
comply with local planning
regulations and avoid potential
delays or complications.

SOME OTHER
CONSIDERATIONS

Below
Swimming pools
and outbuildings
have separate
rules under
Permitted
Development

Even if you are not in one of these
areas, Permitted Development
rights may have been removed by
a condition on a previous planning
consent for your site.
Although PD is supposed to
simplify the process for many types
of project, the rules that define
what is Permitted Development
and what is not, can be fiendishly
complicated. That’s why it’s
important to speak to a planning
consultant and it’s almost always
a good idea to get them to obtain
a lawful development certificate
for you, before you start the
building work, as this will fully
confirm if what you want to do with
your project really does count as
Permitted Development.

RENOVATING A
GEORGIAN
HOME
Known for their elegant architectural
features, Georgian homes need to
be restored sensitively to make
them fit for modern life

NATASHA
BRINSMEAD

IMAGES: PAUL RAESIDE

Is our associate
editor and has
renovated her
own Edwardian
home..

Right Symmetry
and proportions
were a key
design feature
of Georgian
houses, as shown
by this stunning
late-Georgian
property in
Norfolk

76 homebuilding.co.uk

R

enovating a Georgian house
can feel rather like a privilege
for many people — a chance to
restore a beautiful building back to
its former glory. Grand, simple and
symmetrical, with strong classical
influences, homes built during
the Georgian era (1714 to 1837) are
known for their elegant good looks.
Georgian manor houses,
townhouses, rectories and
farmhouses have, over the years,
become part of the landscape in
the UK and are now often viewed
as one of the most sought-after
and recognisable of all house styles
for many — you only have to look
around at the high number of mock
Georgian-style new builds around
for proof of that.
However, for those renovators
lucky enough to get their hands
on an original Georgian home,
the initial enthusiasm can easily
turn to dismay as they feel the
pressure to not only remain true
to the origins of a building such as
this, but also try to update them for
modern-day living.
Here, we explain the most
common design features of
Georgian houses and give tips on
how to make the most of them.
We also explain the options for
those faced with details that are
beyond repair, as well as the best

ways to approach extensions and
alterations in a sensitive manner.

WHAT ERA IS A
GEORGIAN HOUSE?

The Georgian period ran from 1714
to 1837. During this time, England
was ruled by four King Georges
(George I through to George
IV) so homes built during this
time are considered ‘Georgian’.
The Regency Period sits within
the Georgian period, and refers
specifically to the time when
George IV (Prince Regent) took
over from ‘mad’ George III and has

subtle differences. For instance,
a Regency period home might
be rendered from top to bottom,
while before this, with earlier
Georgian-style designs, the render
might only cover the ground floor
walls, leaving the upper floor
brickwork exposed.
Many Georgian houses will be
listed buildings, in which case it
goes without saying that you will
need to seek listed building consent
before you can make any changes at
all — both externally and internally.
Your local planning authority will
be able to advise you here.

O L D

Left Where
possible, it’s
best to restore
original features
to maintain
the charm and
authenticity of
your Georgian
property

H O U S E

N E W

H O M E

sash windows are as inseparable
as Victorian houses and elegant
feature fireplaces.
Tall sash windows with lots
of smaller panes are common
features, as are fan and arched
designs. Earlier sash windows
tended to have a greater number of
panes of glass — with six-over-six
being typical of the early Georgian
era. By the end of the period, fourover-four or even two-over-two
was more often used as it became
possible to make larger panes.

“If you have original sash
windows, you should always
repair rather than replace”

IMAGE:(TOP) PAUL RAESIDE

KEY FEATURES
OF GEORGIAN
ARCHITECTURE

While there are many different
types and styles of Georgian
houses, there are some common
traits that they all tend to
share. Chartered architect
Alex Oliver, director of Alex Oliver
Associates, explains that these
“crucial Georgian principles of
architecture” include:
● Large, tall windows, letting in
lots of light
● Simple, elegant designs
● Plenty of kerb appeal
● Tall ceiling heights internally
● A sense of openness inside.
It is also important to
understand the principles of
Georgian architecture if you are
planning on adding an extension
to one of these properties — while
you want your home to work
well for a modern lifestyle, this
shouldn’t be at the detriment of
the original form of the house.
Thankfully, many of the key traits
of Georgian architecture are
still very much useful when it
comes to how we like to live in
our homes nowadays.

USING ALL STOREYS

Georgian houses were often built
with three or more storeys. In
grander houses, the upper storeys
would usually have been servants’
quarters, which is why the windows
on these floors are usually smaller
than those on the lower floors,
where lots of light was considered
more important.
These upper storeys will usually
have lower ceilings compared
to those in ground and first floor
rooms and it can be hard to know
how to bring in light and a sense
of space for the modern-day
homeowner. You could take the
cosy approach and simply embrace
the more squat proportions of
these areas. Guest bedrooms,
children’s rooms, snugs and teen
dens are all ideal uses for these
spaces. Lighting low ceilings can be
tricky but a carefully considered
design will make the spaces feel
cosy and intimate.

Below Stucco
was a popular
cladding
material in
Georgian times,
mimicking the
appearance
of fine dressed
stone for a
considerably
lower price. This
beautiful project
was carried out
by Alex Oliver
Associates

It goes without saying that if
you have original sash windows,
you should always repair rather
than replace. When repairing sash
windows, it is not uncommon to
find rotten sections of timber.
Other common finds are sashes
that stick in their frames, broken
panes of glass and peeling paint.
While some of these jobs can
be undertaken by keen DIYers,
it is important to call in a skilled
joiner to work on the trickier repair
jobs. There are also specialist sash
window repair companies who
can not only do restoration work,
but also upgrade the performance
levels of the windows without
impacting on their character.

LOOK AT WINDOW
CONFIGURATIONS

Often, the windows are one of the
biggest giveaways of architectural
eras — and Georgian houses and

homebuilding.co.uk 77

IMAGE: JAMES MERRELL

SYMMETRICAL FAÇADES

The Georgians liked everything to
line up in an orderly fashion when it
came to exteriors so you can forget
mix-and-match window sizes,
clusters of chimneys of multiple
heights and quirky brick details —
charming features that look fine on
cottages but which are out of place
on Georgian homes.
“The key to Georgian domestic
architecture is proportion,” says
Alex Oliver. “These designs ascribe
to what is known as the ‘golden
ratio’, which sets the proportions
of the various sections of the
build and features, like its doors
and windows. Even the humble
workers’ cottages built in this era
follow this design principle.”
Roof parapets are
a common sight on
Georgian houses and
serve to conceal the
pitch of the roofline

“Georgian designs ascribe to what is known as
the ‘golden ratio’, which sets the proportions of the
various sections of the build and features”
What all this means for
renovators is that the façade
of a Georgian house is most
certainly not the place to start
experimenting with any new
details that might interfere with
its neat and tidy proportions.

TACKLE STUCCO
REPAIRS WITH CARE

Many Georgian houses feature
stucco – a type of lime-based
render – at least to the façade,
which was commonly painted

white. That said, brick was also
widely used, sometimes for the
entire house, other times just on
the upper storeys. In rural areas,
stone may have been used in
conjunction with areas of stucco,
providing a rougher finish.
Original Georgian stucco
would usually have consisted
of a mixture of hydraulic lime,
sand and hair. This gave a smooth
render finish that was usually
applied over brickwork and used
to simulate dressed stone — far
more affordable than the real thing.
Although external stucco was being
used in London in the late-18th
century, it was particularly popular
during the Regency period.
If you are working with stucco
on your renovation project, you
may well find it has become stained,
has come away from the wall or is
bulging or cracked. This is usually
due to general neglect leading
to water penetration behind the
render. You may also find that the
stucco has been subjected to an
ill-advised repair job in the past
using cementitious materials
that are not compatible with
lime-based stucco.
When it comes to restoring
stucco, it really is best to call in
the professionals if you’re serious
about getting the very best end
result — it can be slightly different
from other render repair jobs.
Any new, inappropriate materials
will need to be removed, carefully,
and areas of original render that
are beyond repair should be cut
away. Fine cracks are usually
straightforward to fill, but larger
cracks will need to be filled with
a new lime-based mortar or
render, depending on the original
materials that have been used.
When it comes to repainting
stucco, breathable exterior paints
are usually recommended, but do
check that the one you choose will
be suitable for this purpose.

O L D

H O U S E

N E W

H O M E

USING THE RIGHT
TYPE OF BRICKS

The Georgians, just like builders
who came before them, favoured
the use of local materials and this
is most certainly the case when it
came to the types of bricks they
used. “Georgians used materials
that were locally available and
therefore less expensive than
imported materials,” explains
Alex Oliver. “This led to a wide
variety of different materials
relating to local geology and
geography being used regionally.
“Regarding bricks, ‘London
commons’ are generally a yellow
clay brick, whereas in regions
with red clay, a warm red brick
is the norm. Most Georgian
bricks conformed to the Imperial
measurements of the time,
whereas modern bricks are
generally to the smaller metric
measurement. When extending
a historic Georgian property
it’s advisable to use a matching
Imperial brick (although rare, they
are still made and available). Note
that mortars were lime and not
cement based, and due to the high
craft skill levels of the bricklayers,
brick joints were narrower than
with modern brickwork, where
joints are twice as wide.
“Common features of brickwork
in Georgian domestic architecture
were the use of brick quoining
around rubbed brickwork arches
over door and window openings,”
says Alex. “The quoining and
rubbed brick arches were often in
contrasting colours. The rubbed
arch feature is performing a
structural role supporting the wall
above, and was made by arduously
hand rubbing bricks to a tapering
wedge shape, the basic ‘voussoir’
element of the arch. These bricks
were often a denser harder brick
than those which were used for the
general wall brickwork.”

ACQUAINT YOURSELF
WITH CLASSICAL
ARCHITECTURE
Classical architectural features
such as columns, porticoes and
pediments were all well loved by

the Georgians, who felt they added
a sense of grandeur and opulence
to their homes. Other classical
details, particularly those
reminiscent of the Roman period,
can also be expected, such as motifs
featuring floral details.
If your home does not have these
– and never did – do not attempt
to add them. They will just look
out of place. On the other hand, if
you are the owner of a house with
any of these classical details still
in place, do all you can to look after
them and bring them back to glory.
In all likelihood you are going to
need a restoration specialist here
if you don’t want to risk ruining a
beautiful original feature.
If you plan on building an
extension, it can be a nice nod to
the origins of the house to include
more of these details within the
new design — arches and columns
can actually work well with
contemporary structures.

RESTORING
STAIRCASE DESIGNS

When it came to staircase
design, the Georgians liked to
turn this feature into a real
statement. Long winding
handrails, helical designs and
classical motifs were all features
that were commonly included
in the staircases of the era. If you
are very lucky, you might find that
all the original beauty of your

FROM
THE
EXPERT
“The key thing to know first of all is whether or not
your house is a listed building. If it is, you will most
certainly need listed building consent to make
changes,” advises professional planning consultant
Simon Rix. “Failure to get this consent first is a serious
criminal offence, with unlimited fines and even a
prison sentence possible.”
Simon Rix, planning consultant

Above Alex
Oliver Associates
were appointed
to sensitively
repair this
Georgian
townhouse and
reinstate its use
as a residential
family home. The
brickwork was
repointed with
lime mortar, the
sash windows
and doors were
repaired and
repainted and
the stone window
surrounds, and
string repaired

Georgian staircase has simply been
encased by boarding at some point
in the past, and if this is the case,
you can simply work on bringing
what you have back up to scratch.
Georgian staircases were
generous in their proportions,
with wide, solid treads and both
timber and metal balustrades were
extremely popular. Old flights of
stairs that are in poor condition
may well need some strengthening
from beneath, while very worn
treads might need replacing with
matching versions.
If you have missing ornate
balusters you may struggle to
find matching replacements, in
which case you will need to call in
a woodturner to craft new ones. A
skilled joiner should also be able to
help with restoring sections, such
as cappings and newel posts.

homebuilding.co.uk 79

O L D

IMAGE: (TOP) GETTY IMAGES

DEALING WITH
BRICKED-UP WINDOWS

The window tax that came into
force between 1696 and 1851 means
that it is not unusual to find one
or more bricked-up windows in
Georgian properties.
It is likely that you will want to
open up a bricked-up window to
add a replacement window and
doing so should not affect the
proportions of your home — but
do ensure that the new window
matches the originals. It should
also be a job without too many
structural implications, providing
the window opening and lintel
above were not damaged when
they were bricked up.
That said, even if your house is
not listed, don’t just assume that
you will be allowed to open up a
bricked-up window. In some cases,
a window that has been blocked up
in the 18th century could be seen
as a crucial part of the history of
the house — check with your local
planning department first.
“Even if it is not listed, the
permitted development right to
add a new window without the
need for a planning application
may have been removed for your
house (via a condition on a previous
application) or for your area (via an
Article 4 Direction),” says planning
consultant Simon Rix. “Ask a good
planning consultant to help you
work this out.
“Also, if any new upper-floor
windows would be on the side of
your house, the glass would need to
be obscure glazed for you to benefit
from Permitted Development,”
continues Simon. “Glazing to
provide privacy is normally rated
on a scale of 1-5, with 5 providing
the most privacy. To be Permitted
Development, side windows need
to be obscure glazed to minimum
of level 3. Obscure glazing does not
include one-way glass. Also, if it is to
count as Permitted Development,
any openable parts of the window
would need to be more than 1.7
metres above the room’s floor.
“Even if you think your proposal
meets these requirements, it is best
to ask your planning consultant

H O U S E

N E W

H O M E

FROM
THE
EXPERT
“In Georgian times, front doors
would have been made from
solid timber, with three, five or
six panels forming an elegant,
symmetrical exterior focal point.
Detailing of the door and its
frame would vary in terms of
its ornamentation depending
on the use and status of the
building and its place within the
individual building’s hierarchy.”
ALEX OLIVER, ALEX
OLIVER ASSOCIATES
Left Elegant front doors and railings
and a symmetrical façade are all key
traits of Georgian architecture

to get that confirmed via a lawful
development certificate from
your council. And if you do need
to get approval via a planning
application, that generally
should not be a massive problem,
especially if the new window
wouldn’t impact on the privacy
of neighbours, either in the house
or their rear private garden. There
will be more paperwork involved,
but the planning application
route is definitely possible in
many cases.”
And, finally, some windows were
actually built ‘blind’, meaning they
were never meant to open, in which
case you will also need to seek
advice from your local planners.
You should also note that if you are
looking to open up a blind window,
there may well be no lintel in place.

TACKLING A BASEMENT
Basements were commonplace in
Georgian houses and often this is
where the kitchen and servants’
living quarters would have been
located. If you are lucky enough
to be renovating a house with a
subterranean level then it will be
well worth looking into how to
convert a basement. Basements
can be used for everything from
home offices to extra living space

Columns, ornate features and a grand
entrance give this house project, designed
by Alex Oliver Associates, a regal feel

homebuilding.co.uk 81

O L D

and even converted to provide
additional self-contained
accommodation providing the
correct planning applications
are made.
How much a basement
conversion will cost will depend
on its state and what you intend
on using it for. If you have to
lower the floor level to increase
headroom, which will involve
digging out the ground beneath
the house and underpinning the
foundations, work can start to
get pretty expensive, starting at
£2,000-£4,000/m².

READ UP ON DOOR
STYLES AND COLOURS

Georgian front doors were hugely
important — remember, kerb
appeal and first impressions were
everything during these times.
Fitting the wrong front door on a
Georgian façade can totally ruin
its appearance and proportions
so it pays to do some research and
find out what would originally have
been in place.
“The Georgians considered
entrances carefully and the
entrances to a building were

N E W

H O M E

have square upper panels and
rectangular lower panels,
that allowed for a mid-rail at
about waist height that could
accommodate a door handle or
a letterbox, or possibly both.”

considered and expressed
hierarchically,” says Alex Oliver.
“Front doors were panelled and
almost always painted.”
Glazed doors were very rare
in Georgian times, but arched
fanlights above were really popular,
allowing light into the hallway
beyond. Although black was a
favourite colour for front doors, the
Georgians were not afraid of colour

ROOF REPAIRS

“Georgian staircases were
generous in their proportions,
with wide, solid treads”
and dark green and even red were
also sometimes used — all these
shades look great with the chunky
solid brass door furniture that was
also popular at the time.
“Doors are one component of the
entrance and varied a little from
early Georgian through to later
Regency, but the most recognised
type that is associated with the
Georgians today is the six-panel
raised and fielded door,” continues
Alex. “Typically, this would

H O U S E

Below This
staircase, by
Bisca, was
designed to
be in keeping
with the grand
formality of
Georgian times
and features rich
timber and handforged uprights

When it comes to the types of roof
favoured by Georgian architects,
the shallower the better. “The
shallower the roof, the more
dominant the façade, meaning that
Georgians – who really valued kerb
appeal – tended to either opt for a
very shallow pitch or they would
cover part of it with a parapet —
either way, reducing its impact,”
explains Alex Oliver.
M-shaped roofs were pretty
common, too, with central valley
gutters. This type of gutter can
be problematic if not kept clear
of debris, so be sure to make this
a priority and don’t be surprised
to find some water may have
penetrated into the rooms below
at some point down the years.
When it comes to the kind of
roofing materials you can expect,
clay tiles, slate, stone slates and
lead were all popular.

homebuilding.co.uk 83

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Design ideas for open-plan
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Adding curves to kitchen
islands can help create
a natural flow in an
open-plan kitchen as the
softer edges help to lead
you through the space,
a trick that’s been used
to great effect here by
Place Design

Open-plan
kitchen
From structural considerations and zoning to layout ideas and lighting,
our practical guide to creating your new space has it covered

86 homebuilding.co.uk

D E S I G N

M A S T E R C L A S S

pen-plan kitchen extensions can
be a great addition to your home.
Adding extra practical space as well
as the chance to create a stunning
architectural feature, they’re one of
the most popular kitchen extension
concepts. But with this style of extension
comes the added consideration of
knocking down a substantial portion of an external wall, the
need for added structural support, possible differences in floor
and ceiling levels, potential implications to your overall energy
efficiency and myriad glazing decisions to make.
It’s certainly not as simple as creating a new doorway
through to a new kitchen — and even if you’re extending to
the side of your house rather than the rear, the same issues
will apply. There’s no doubt that these types of extensions can
be a valuable addition to your home. However, the key to a
successful end result is careful planning in advance and making
sure you have a full understanding of how the structure is built
and the implications it will have on the rest of your home.
Even if you want your kitchen extension idea to look
architecturally different to your current exterior, inside it still
needs to deliver a cohesive space. “Make sure you’ve collated a
list of the things you definitely need, and want, at the earliest
stage to ensure you cover all the must-haves,” says Nathan
Kingsbury, founder and creative director of Nathan Kingsbury
Design. “This will also ensure that no area in the new openplan extension is under-utilised and will result in space that is
not only beautiful, but functions in the way that you and those
living in it, need it to.”

It can be easy to get swept away with the idea of living in a home
where open-plan kitchen, living and dining layouts provide
a seamless backdrop to your day. The reality is, making this
happen involves a serious amount of structural changes to your
home, all of which can impact the final costs — and affect the
way you live while the space is created.
“Build costs often are much more expensive than you initially
think,” says John Place, owner of Place Design. “Therefore it
makes sense to get quotes from builders very early on in the
process due to the amount of work involved. This way you’ll
get an idea of the costs involved before you begin to budget for
your furniture, appliances and everything else that creates the
final end result.”

BEAMS, PILLARS AND CEILING LEVELS

Whether creating an opening to the rear or side of your home,
removing part of an external wall involves adding new support
to the roof and wall above in the form of structural beams.
Removing an external wall without properly replacing the
support puts the rest of your home at risk.
It’s a complex area, but the type of beam that’s used in your
open-plan kitchen extension will need to be designed by a
structural engineer so that it has sufficient weight-bearing
capacity, and works with the existing structure of your home.
However, it can also have implications on the finished ceiling
levels between your house and new extension.
If you’re aiming for a seamless finish you’ll be looking for the

WORDS: SARAH HARLEY. IMAGE: PLACEDESIGN / CHRIS SNOOK

STRUCTURAL CONSIDERATIONS

homebuilding.co.uk 87

“Ensuring every zone within the overall
space has a specific function is key if you want
to avoid creating areas or surfaces that
serve no purpose at all”
NATHAN KINGSBURY, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE
DIRECTOR OF NATHAN KINGSBURY DESIGN

Left Leaving steel
beams exposed
could form part of
your overall design
if you are unable
to hide them in
ceilings or walls, as
in this industrial-style
space by Nathan
Kingsbury Design
Above Getting the
colour of your units
right first can set
the colour scheme
for your entire
open-plan space.
This Shaker kitchen
by Olive & Barr is
painted in Farrow &
Ball’s Pink Ground
and Bamboozle
Right Adding
nooks to your overall
design can add
extra, smaller zones
to your open-plan
kitchen extension,
as shown in this
space by Nathan
Kingsbury Design

D E S I G N

M A S T E R C L A S S

beam to be hidden — something that may not be possible
and will depend on two things: the floor level of any rooms
above and the current ceiling height of your house. Lifting
the floor level above to accommodate the beam will involve
more work and cost, but if you have sufficient ceiling
height downstairs, you may be able to create a suspended
ceiling to hide the new beam.
Alternatively, some have used the beam as a way of
visually breaking up the space, myself included. When I
added an extension to a listed building, it wasn’t possible
to increase the overall height to hide the beam above
the ceiling, as this would have exceeded what had been
granted in planning permission. Instead the beams were
plasterboarded, skimmed and decorated, helping to subtly
define the kitchen from the living area in an unobtrusive
and minimal way that didn’t affect the overall layout.
Vertical supports or pillars may also be requested by
your structural engineer and can again form part of your
overall design or be covered up, depending on the final
look. In oak frame kitchen extensions, for example, they
add aesthetic value to the overall scheme and you’ll be
happy to embrace them as part of your overall design.

CHOOSING WINDOW AND DOOR DESIGNS

While a kitchen extension with bifold doors is a great
option if you’re looking to create a natural transition
between indoors and out, it’s not the only option available
to you. Instead, a kitchen extension with skylights could
provide you with plenty of light and give you much-needed
wall space for kitchen cabinets.
It’s also essential you design your windows and doors to
suit the existing aspect of your home, according to John
Place. “Don’t try to create something you have seen in a
magazine in a space that is totally different to the direction
of your garden,” says John. “For instance, if you have a
south-facing garden do you really want to put that much
glazing in? It can make a room very cold in winter and very
hot in summer. Maybe that one you saw full of glazing is
north facing, so design for the space you have, not for the
one you saw somewhere else.”
Also consider where you’ll need light the most. A skylight
above your kitchen prep area could give additional natural
task lighting during the day, whereas a rooflight above
a sitting area may provide an opportunity to stargaze at
night. And if your open-plan kitchen extension is small,
can you afford to sacrifice one wall to bifold, sliding or
patio doors or would you be best served with more storage,
whether in the form of kitchen cabinets or bookcases?
If you’re planning a terrace house extension for example,
you may be building up to a boundary wall or looking at how
you get party wall agreements in place. In this instance,
ceiling glazing and rooflights could be a better option if you
still desire a light-filled space. Remember to think about the
practicalities of cleaning the glass and ensuring you don’t
find yourself overlooked by neighbouring properties.

CONSIDER ENERGY EFFICIENCY

Choosing energy-efficient windows will be essential when
it comes to ensuring your open-plan kitchen extension

homebuilding.co.uk 89

90 homebuilding.co.uk

D E S I G N

so that it is clear which part you are in. For instance,
you don’t want to feel like you are still in the kitchen/
cooking space when you’re relaxing and chatting
with friends after dinner. If a space doesn’t have a
specific function, it either won’t be used and simply
become wasted space or it will turn into dumping
grounds for clutter.
“Starting with zoning also helps you to make
sense of the feel of the room in the initial stages,”
adds Nathan. “Once you have ascertained which
parts function for which purposes, you can build an
intended feel or vibe around each one and then grow
these with chosen colours, lighting, and materials to
create these — and to create that definition.”

IMAGE: (OPPOSITE TOP) SIMON BEVAN; (ABOVE) @CASACOTON); (LEFT) DRAZEN / GETTY IMAGES

GETTING THE FLOW RIGHT

gets Building Regulations approval. Of equal
importance will be the total amount of glazing
that is involved and whether extending one or
two existing small rooms into a larger openplan space will impact on your current and new
insulation requirements.
Approved Document Part L1B of the building
regulations requirements is the section which
sets out the requirements for renovations and
extensions to existing homes. It states that if a wall
or floor which is considered a thermal element is
being renovated, it must adhere to the standards set
out in part L1A which covers new homes.
While our comprehensive guide to Part L of the
building regulations on our website (homebuilding.
co.uk/advice/part-l) explains in more detail
how this may impact on your open-plan kitchen
extension, it’s worth knowing that the 25% glazing
rule in Part L, means highly glazed extensions will
need SAP calculations in order to get final approval.
Furthermore, if you aren’t looking to start your
extension for a few years, bear in mind that changes
are being proposed to SAP (standard assessment
procedure) calculations to ensure all buildings fall
within the new Future Homes Standard.

FOCUS ON YOUR ZONING

“One of the key points you need to think about
in the space is zoning,” says Nathan Kingsbury.
“Open-plan kitchen extensions are wonderful, but
so often, the space can feel cold and be limited in its
ability to help you relax. The key is to create defined
zones within the kitchen and add nooks or soft
spaces that allow for rest and relaxation. It’s also
important that these zones have their own identity,

Whether your kitchen layout includes a lounge or
dining area as well, having a practical and aesthetic
flow is integral to ensuring your space meets your
needs. This can be as simple as adding curves to
larger items, such as a kitchen island, to make the
space seem more fluid.
“The flow of each zone into the next, how one
moves through the space as a whole and how
multiple people can do this without being in each
other’s way are all questions you need to consider,
says Nathan Kingsbury. “It’s required in order to
make sure the overall space and zones within it truly
function in a manner that is practical and relevant to
the way you intend to live and use the space.”
John Place also notes how the practical
considerations of daily life need to be taken into
account. “Think about how people move through
the area while others are working in it,” says John.
“If you are going to have young children running
around, for example, it probably isn’t a good idea to
have an eye-level oven that opens across a doorway.”

M A S T E R C L A S S

Opposite top
Choose flooring
to suit the practical
as well as the
aesthetic needs
of your open-plan
kitchen extension
Left Use different
levels of lighting to
help define zones
in your open-plan
kitchen extension.
Lighting from
Industville
Bottom left
Adding a large
kitchen extension
with extra glazing
and a pitched
roof could affect
the overall energy
efficiency of your
existing home

CABINET PLACEMENT NEEDS
CAREFUL CONSIDERATION

“No matter the size of kitchen, carefully thoughtout cupboards are key to how the kitchen works
and flows,” says Al Bruce, founder of Olive & Barr.
“Remember to consider the preparation space
around the cooker and sink area, you’ll need plenty
of room either side of these stations. For the cooker
area, you’ll need space for baking trays that come
straight out of the oven, while the sink area needs

“The one point to ensure is that your
kitchen flooring is practical and easy
to clean. Small tiles with lots of grout
lines get dirty so much quicker in a
kitchen than in a living space”
JOHN PLACE, OWNER OF
PLACE DESIGN

homebuilding.co.uk 91

plenty of room for stackable pots and dishes ready
to be washed. Another key element often overlooked
is the recycling bin, this is especially important in
terrace houses where additional storage is limited.
“Rather than installing lots of standard cabinets,
consider larger cabinets,” adds Al. “They offer
plenty of storage and work out to be much cheaper
than two standard-sized cupboards. Sectioning
the kitchen off in designated areas will allow you
to envisage how you’ll use the space and in turn
improve the ergonomics of the kitchen.”
You may also be weighing up the benefits of a
freestanding or fitted kitchen, or perhaps you are
considering a kitchen island idea to define the
kitchen area from the dining space. You may even
be looking to add a kitchen pantry or utility area.
“Everyone has different needs,” says John, “for
example, although many Victorian terrace side
return extensions follow a similar footprint, the
people in them do not necessarily have the same
requirements, so don’t be afraid to personalise your
space to suit your own needs.”

ADDING COLOUR AND TEXTURE

As well as getting the overall structure and cabinet
layout right, the best open-plan kitchens will all
incorporate some clever tricks of the trade when it
comes to lighting, flooring and use of colour. When
it comes to making the space feel cohesive, “colour
and texture are the most obvious techniques by
using similar styles of furniture throughout,” says
John Place. “It doesn’t have to all be the same,
though. There is a difference between cohesive and
uniform. Eclectic spaces often have an energy and
character that oversimplified spaces lose.

“If you are a fan of minimalist style, that’s fine, but
the best spaces still recognize the need for a variety
of texture and colour to add interest,” says John. “If
every cabinet surface in the room is just a flat, white
door it can look cold and clinical. If you are having
a TV area, maybe consider having a mid-century
sideboard underneath it instead of more kitchen
furniture. It will add warmth and character and
define a different area all at once.”

Above Giving
every space a
purpose helps to
create a successful
open-plan kitchen
extension, as in
this space with
a handmade
Shaker kitchen
by Olive & Barr

LIGHTING AN OPEN-PLAN LAYOUT

Left Taller kitchen
units, such as these
ones from the Ash
Collection at Olive
& Barr, will not only
maximise your
storage, they can
also be a striking
design feature

Kitchen lighting will always make use of a layering
technique, and it’s perhaps even more important
when it comes to open-plan kitchen extensions. Try
and think of it in the same way as you define your
zones, says John Place. “You have task lighting,
which ensures you have enough light to see what
you are chopping, and then you have ambient light
– from a set of glass cupboards, for example – for a
mellow evening glow.
“A lot of the time, people just put in ceiling
downlights and leave it at that, but they give a
horrible light in my opinion and should only be used
in the task area,” adds John. “Consider using floorstanding lights or wall-mounted lights to give more
character to the space, and obviously pendant lights
work well over a breakfast bar or dining table.”

GO FOR PRACTICAL FLOORING

When it comes to choosing your flooring, while
you may be tempted to chose one floor finish
believing it will enhance the overall sense of space,
it’s important to weigh up whether your aesthetic
preference matches the practical use of each zone.
“In big spaces, a different type of flooring can
actually help to denote different zones,” says
John Place.
If you’re trying to find the best flooring for
kitchens but you’re also keen for one overall colour
or finish, try using different-sized tiles in a similar
finish. Or, if you are using engineered wood flooring
or a luxury vinyl flooring with a wood-effect finish,

homebuilding.co.uk 93

D E S I G N

lay the boards in different directions to denote the
fact you are walking into a new zone.
If your open-plan kitchen extension is located at
the rear of your house and opens onto your patio
area, you may also want to choose a floor tile that
comes in an external version. This will enhance
the seamless finish if you’ve specified a rebated
threshold, which means floor levels are the same,
removing the need for a step up or down.

IMAGE: MARK WATTS

DON’T FORGET THE IMPORTANCE
OF COLOUR

Although colour trends will come and go, getting
the colours right in an open-plan kitchen extension
can make all the difference to your enjoyment of
the space. And although having to choose a scheme
that works in a kitchen, dining and potentially living
room layout can seem daunting, the same basic
principles apply as in any other room.
When it comes to deciding on colour, there are a
few questions worth asking yourself before reaching
for a colour chart:
● What is the overall feel I’m aiming for — colourful,
minimal, calm or cosy?
● How much natural light enters the room?
● Is there a significant risk of the walls being
marked frequently?
● How will the colour scheme work with the rest
of my home?
● If I’m following a trend, am I likely to get bored of
it quickly, and will it date before very long?
Given walls can also be decorated at less expense
than replacing kitchen cabinets or worktops, it
would make sense to choose the colour and finish of
your units and worktop first when it comes to your
open-plan kitchen extension. From this, it becomes
easier to choose your flooring, wall colour, furniture
finishes and even finer kitchen decor ideas that truly
identify the space as yours.

exist, this doesn’t mean you have to adhere to this
too strictly. Broken-plan design doesn’t mean that
you have to suddenly start adding walls to your
design. Instead, in a similar way you would use a
kitchen island or bank of units to divide a space,
you can also use other types of furniture to
define your open-plan kitchen extension. It’s also
something you can do once you’ve lived in the space
for a while and feel the need for change.
“Open-plan spaces have been a big hit for several
years now,” says Jonathan Clark, creative director
at Shelved. “However, we’re now seeing a pivot as
homeowners want to enjoy the best of both worlds
and welcome in broken plan. Zoning the room to
create intimate lounging or dining areas makes the
space feel more cosy and inviting. An effective way
to achieve this is with a freestanding shelving unit,
for example. Not only will it help to section the
room, but it also maintains the flow and connection
between the divided areas. To avoid creating dark or
gloomy corners, you might want to opt for a shelving
unit that offers an abundance of open sections to
allow the light to still flood through the room.”

M A S T E R C L A S S

Below To ensure
plenty of natural
light in the food
prep areas, this
scheme by Place
Design includes
a rooflight above
the main kitchen
cooking space
Bottom In this
oak frame house
by Oakwrights,
the oak beams are
an integral design
feature in the
open-plan space

CONSIDER A BROKEN-PLAN DESIGN

Although by definition an open-plan space is one
where the boundaries between rooms no longer

“Although you’re going to
need decent task lighting in
an open-plan kitchen, you
will also want to create a
more subtle mood with
everything from
lamps and pendants
to wall lights or
LED strips”
BETH MURTON,
EDITOR OF
HOMEBUILDING
& RENOVATING
homebuilding.co.uk 95

A last-minute decision to build a kitchen extension instead
of a general update turned out to be a wise move
for the owners of this detached period property

96 homebuilding.co.uk

HOMEOWNERS Krystelle FloydWass and Edward Floyd
LOCATION Southeast London
HOUSE TYPE 1930s four-bedroom
detached
PROJECT Kitchen extension
PROJECT COST Approx £240,000
(whole house)
WORDS Ifeoluwa Adedeji
PHOTOGRAPHY Adelina Lliev
STYLING Melissa Denham

or Krystelle Floyd-Wass and Edward Floyd,
updating their run-down modern property
proved a real challenge. Their dilemmas
included deciding what to keep and what
to remove, but luckily, Krystelle had formed a clear
priority — to create a sympathetic connection between
the new extension and the original building and in
doing so, create a spacious kitchen at the rear.
“We found our architect Helen Yeadon through
friends,” says Krystelle. “She was able to help us
sketch out ideas and suggestions for the various houses we
viewed before deciding on this one. This way, we knew what we
could do with certain spaces and see whether the properties
were viable for renovation. She lives nearby, so she was able
to project manage the build, which was a godsend as we lived
over two hours away in Buckinghamshire at the time.”
Helen had worked with the builder the couple used on a
previous project, and she also introduced them to bespoke
interior designers, PAD, who installed the kitchen.
“Part of my brief for the kitchen was that we needed
somewhere that could house my collection of more than 100
cookery books — the aim is to eventually build a shelving/
seating area for them in a recess we created,” says Krystelle.

POOR STATE OF REPAIR

The couple admit the house was in an awful state when they
first saw it. “The central heating hadn’t been installed and the
upstairs WC didn’t work, plus it also needed a full rewire as the
original 1930s electrics and fuse box were still in place,” says
Krystelle. “The living room floor was bouncy, and when we
removed it we realised water had been coming into the property
and the joists had collapsed.”
Krystelle and Edward made the decision to concrete the
entire ground floor rather than just the kitchen, which they
hadn’t planned for initially. They also decided to incorporate
underfloor heating because when they removed the wall
between the kitchen and the dining room, they found there
weren’t many options for places to hang radiators, but being
such a big space, the room would definitely need good heating.

LAST-MINUTE RETHINK

“Originally, we weren’t going to extend the property at all
because it was a good size,” says Krystelle. “We even got
planning permission to just knock through, but before we put
the tenders out to the builders, we realised it would make more
sense to extend now rather than in five or 10 years. We wanted a
spacious room with a large island, and the original plan made the
space tight. We do a lot of cooking and like having people over —
we wanted it to be open and sociable.”
As a result of their rethink, the couple went back to Helen
and asked her to change the plans, and now admit that it was
the single best decision they made. It also meant the house
was unliveable in when the work started, so they had to go and
stay with Krystelle’s grandmother in Buckinghamshire once
construction got underway.

COMING TOGETHER

“I had a clear idea of what I wanted the kitchen to look like — I
wanted it to be dark green in a Shaker style,” says Krystelle. “The

98 homebuilding.co.uk

R E A L

P R O J E C T

K I T C H E N

“We wanted a spacious room with a large
island, We do a lot of cooking and like
having people over — we wanted it
to be open and sociable”

E X T E N S I O N

The extension
benefits from a mix
of wall and pendant
lighting. “We spent
hours looking for
just the right mix of
lighting that could
fill the space,”
says Krystelle

100 homebuilding.co.uk

R E A L

P R O J E C T

K I T C H E N

E X T E N S I O N

majority of the units are off-the-shelf, but we had the larder made
bespoke. It’s brilliant as I prefer to have things tidied away, but
it’s still a very easy and accessible space. PAD were very careful
to spend time going through what we do in the kitchen and what
we have. For instance, we have a separate glass cupboard as we
have a lot of glassware.”
The creative influence of architect Helen can be clearly
seen in the extension, where she persuaded the couple to
be more adventurous than they might otherwise have been
with colour, and this even extended to painting the T-shaped
exposed beams in yellow, which beautifully ties in with the
industrial feel of the steel-framed doors. The wall of glazing not
only showcases the green space beyond but, together with the
twin skylights on the extension’s pitched room, allows masses
of light into the kitchen. “The coloured beams are the thing that
people always comment on in this space,” says Krystelle.

FINISHING TOUCHES

“As well as doing all the construction work, our builder did all the
finishes in the kitchen, dining room and upstairs bathroom, but
we decorated the rest of the house ourselves,” says Krystelle.
“My parents helped us a lot, too — we’d all drive down to London
and spend the weekend decorating. We did it over a period of
12 weeks, and it meant that the house was completely finished
once we moved in.”
The couple were also able to save money by employing some
shrewd tactics. “We bought paint for some of the rooms on
Facebook Marketplace, when people changed their minds or
had some left over,” says Krystelle. “Colour-matching a lot of
the rooms worked out really well and saved on costs, too. We
also sold some of the spare tiles and brassware that was left
over from the build.”
All in all, the new extension has been pronounced a
resounding success, with Krystelle clearly appreciating the
abundance of space they’ve created. “We’ve been here more
than a year now, and it’s been good to have people in the kitchen
while not feel like they’re getting in the way,” she says.

homebuilding.co.uk 101

R E A L

Above The extension enhances the characterful features of the 1930s
house. “It adds more room while ensuring period characteristics aren’t
overshadowed by modern conveniences,” says Krystelle

P R O J E C T

K I T C H E N

E X T E N S I O N

Below During the build, the wall of the dining room was removed
to become part of the new open-plan area, and it proved even more
successful than Krystelle had expected

homebuilding.co.uk 103

T H E

Above To pull the whole space
together, the vibrant paint
scheme was extended through
into the dining room, which
was opened up to become part
of the open-plan space

D E TA I L S

S U P P L I E R S
ARCHITECT Helen Yeadon of YellowDoor
Architecture: www.yellowdoor.design/projects
CONSTRUCTION Tracos: wwwtracosltd.co.uk
KITCHEN PAD: www.pad.london
GLAZING Skyglaze: www.skyglaze.co.uk

S E L E C T E D
BUILDING WORK
KITCHEN
FLOORING
LIGHTING

104 homebuilding.co.uk

C O S T S
£215,000
£25,000
£5,000
£800

Above Exposed timber and original
brickwork create a natural backdrop to the
painted beams in this extension project by
Abbie Whitehead Architects, with bespoke
furniture by Uncommon Projects

WORDS: JO MESSENGER

PLANNING IS KEY

You should liaise with your architect at
the very start of your build project to
discuss your ideas and options, as building
regulations will vary from project to
project. “Consulting a structural engineer
is essential,” says Sean Ronnie Hill,

106 homebuilding.co.uk

Make a bold visual statement by
revealing and highlighting part of the
very structure of your home

Founder of Rise Design Studio. “They
will ensure the beams meet the necessary
load-bearing requirements and comply
with building regulations.”
“Explore all the different steel sections
available with your design team as there
are a lot more options than just I-beams,”
says George Woodrow, co-founder of
Woodrow Vizor Architects. “You could
have C-channels, angles, box sections,
round sections, even flitch beams, which
combine steel and timber — and don’t
forget columns, as well. All of these
can change the character of the space.
With regards to the finish, there are so

many different things you can do with
colour, texture and sheen levels, so have
a play around as this could make a big
difference to what you create.”

BUILDING REGULATIONS

Exposed steel beams must comply
with Building Regulations. “The main
consideration when leaving steel exposed
is fire regulations and if it is forming
part of a structure that is required to be
fire resistant,” says Melissa Robinson,
director of MW Architects. “This can
be achieved by applying a fire retardant
paint ahead of your final paint colour

IMAGES: (TOP LEFT) MARIELL LIND HANSEN;
(MAIN PIC) JACK HOBHOUSE

L

eaving steel beams or RSJs
(rolled steel joints) exposed
is an increasingly popular
feature in projects such as
ground floor extensions. Not
only do the structures add an industrial
aesthetic, they can also increase the head
height of a space. “Instead of covering
everything up in plasterboard, which can
sometimes result in awkward corners
and reduced ceiling heights, it can be
better to accept them so they become
a feature,” says Alan Drumm, Design
Director at Uncommon Projects.

I N

D E TA I L

Opposite The steel
beams and columns
were left exposed in
this renovation by
Rise Design Studio
Left Yellow steels
add a contemporary
feel to this exposed
structure wraparound extension
by Woodrow Vizor
Architects
Below Designed by
Nimtim Architects,
this extension was
conceived as a
garden pavilion with
painted steels and
exposed ceiling joists
to connect it to the
exterior landscape

place, advises Melissa Robinson: “You
can put in a lightweight steel section
beneath it that has no load-bearing
function and is just for aesthetics.”

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

and you will need to discuss a suitable
approach with your builder and building
control officer.” Some fire-retardant
and fire-resistant intumescent paint
companies can issue a fire certificate that
ensures that the coatings used on the
beams meet certain standards.

IMAGES: (TOP) FUTURE; (BOTTOM) MEGAN TAYLOR

DESIGN IDEAS

“Most building projects include steel
these days, so it’s about seeing if one
or more beams can be exposed and
celebrated,” says Tim O’Callaghan,
co-founder of Nimtim Architects. “It’s
worth thinking it through with a good
designer or architect, though, because if
it isn’t done well it can look like a mistake
or an afterthought.”
A popular trend is to paint beams
in a bold colour to match other design
elements, such as tiles or furniture,
or you can create visual interest with

other materials like wood or decorative
tiles. “One idea is to use steel beams to
support or frame shelving units for both
style and function,” says Sean Ronnie
Hill. “Or incorporate custom-designed
lighting fixtures. While drilling into steel
beams for lighting fixtures is possible,
it should be done cautiously to avoid
compromising the beam’s integrity.”
“Run through all the details with your
architect and engineer, making sure you
know they have factored in all the fiddly
parts that will be exposed, for example,
do you want to see bolts, countersunk
bolts or welds? Always make sure you get
a fabricator’s drawing, especially if there
is any complexity, so there can’t be any
divergence from your design through
the manufacturing process,” says
George Woodrow.
It’s also possible to achieve this look
even if a structural beam is already in

Conversations with your architect and/
or structural engineer are important as
depending on the location of steel beams,
not covering them with plasterboard
may result in potential issues, such as
thermal bridging, which can lead to heat
loss. “Insulating above the beam or using
thermal breaks at junctions can mitigate
this,” says Sean Ronnie Hill. “Steel beams
can also attract condensation, especially
in humid environments, but adequate
ventilation and dehumidification
can help prevent this issue, as well as
minimising thermal bridge.”
“We don’t use them where there is a
thermal bridge so they are either fully
internal or in the internal skin of a cavity
wall with enough insulation and moisture
protection in the cavity behind,” says
George Woodrow. “Given where we
normally position them the insulation
considerations are more to do with
sound. You should also discuss steel-tosteel connections and interfaces with
timber with your design team so they
look neat and exact, something which
isn’t so important if they are going to be
covered up with plasterboard.”
There may also be implications for
home insurance, so plans of any exposed
structural elements should be declared
to your insurer, as they can affect the
assessment of risk and premiums.

homebuilding.co.uk 107

SURVEYS
FOR YOUR
EXTENSION
PROJECT

Get up to speed with the
various surveys that might
be required to ensure your
extension gets the green light

P
MICHAEL
HOLMES

Is our Director of
Content as well
as an author
and a presenter
of numerous TV
property shows.

lanning an extension or
remodelling project for
your home is an exciting yet
daunting task. Whether you’re
looking to add space for a growing
family, create a dream kitchen,
or simply improve the value of
your property, understanding
the key types of surveys is crucial.
These not only help in obtaining
planning permission and Building
Regulations approval but also in
predicting and managing project
costs. This guide walks you through
each essential survey, ensuring your
project runs smoothly.

LAND AND
TOPOGRAPHICAL
SURVEYS

A land or topographical survey
is the first step in any extension
or major renovation project. It
provides a detailed map of your
property, showing boundaries,
existing structures, levels, and
features such as trees, hedges, and
watercourses. It is essential for:
Accurate planning To ensure
that your plans are based on precise
measurements.

108 homebuilding.co.uk

E X T E N S I O N

BUILDING SURVEYS

Before embarking on any
construction work, it’s vital to
understand the condition of your
existing building. A building
survey, also known as a structural
survey, provides a thorough
inspection of the property’s fabric
and structure. It helps identify:
Structural issues Detecting
any defects or weaknesses in the
building’s structure.
Maintenance needs
Highlighting areas that require
immediate attention or future
maintenance.
Feasibility of plans By ensuring
the existing structure can support
the proposed extension or remodel.

MEASURED BUILDING
SURVEYS

Although a measured survey
isn’t a necessity for an extension
project, it can offer many benefits
in the long run. “With an existing
house, the plans and elevations will
usually be required for a planning
application anyway, so it makes
sense to have them produced
accurately at the outset,” says Neil.
“Also, your architect will make far

Left Before
you embark on
your extension
project, it’s
important
to know the
condition of
your building

better progress with up-to-date
and accurate plans when creating
the existing and the proposed
information. These drawings
will be useful through the whole
build process for suppliers and
subcontractors to measure and
design their elements.
A measured building survey
provides detailed and accurate
measurements of your existing
property. This survey is crucial for:
Design accuracy Ensuring
that architects and designers have
precise dimensions to work with.
Planning applications
Providing accurate plans for
submission to local authorities.
Construction drawings
Creating detailed drawings
for builders to follow during
construction.

“A measured building survey
provides accurate plans for
submission to local authorities”
UTILITY SURVEYS

These identify the location of
underground services such as
drainage, gas, water, electricity, and
telecommunications. Knowing
where these are located is vital for:
Avoiding damage Preventing
accidental damage to services
during construction.
Planning service upgrades
Facilitating any necessary
upgrades or relocations of utilities.
Complying with regulations
Ensuring compliance with health
and safety regulations.
“If the works are within 3m of
public or mains drains, a build-over
agreement is needed before work
begins on site,” explains property
journalist Rebecca Foster. A buildover agreement is an assurance
to your local water authority that
they will be able to access the pipe
you’re building over or near to in
order to clean and maintain it,
therefore your design will have
to take this into account. “In this
case, the homeowner or designer
should contact the relevant

IMAGE: PAUL MASSEY

Design development This
helps architects and designers
understand the site’s constraints
and opportunities.
Avoiding disputes Clearly
defining property boundaries can
prevent future legal issues.
“Accurate surveys of existing
buildings and land are key to
allowing accurate plans and
drawings to be prepared and
ensure you’re making the most of
the site you’re building on,” says
Neil Turner, architect and director
at Howarth Litchfield Partnership.
“A garden might appear completely
flat – leading you to believe you
should design an extension suited
to a level site – but in reality it
might fall away with a gradient.”
A topographic survey would not
only reveal something like this,
but will also record all the physical
objects on the land including trees,
manholes and services, including
restrictions like overhead cables.

M A S T E R C L A S S

homebuilding.co.uk 109

E X T E N S I O N

“To pave the way for
a smooth process,
it’s best to keep
your neighbours
in the loop”

utilities company with the required
drawings and details to discuss the
proposed works so an agreement
can be drawn up,” adds Rebecca.

IMAGE: FUTURE

IMAGE: FUTURE

PARTY WALL SURVEYS

If your project involves work
on or near a shared wall with a
neighbouring property, a Party
Wall Survey may be required under
the Party Wall etc. Act 1996. This
survey ensures:
Legal compliance Complying
with legal requirements to inform
and obtain consent from affected
neighbours.
Dispute resolution Providing a
framework to resolve any disputes
that may arise with neighbours
regarding the work.
Protection of properties
Documenting the condition of
neighbouring properties before
work begins to protect against
claims of damage.
The Party Wall Act 1996 will
be applicable in England &
Wales if there is any excavation
work occurring on or near the
boundaries with adjoining homes,
or if it affects shared buildings.
Each neighbour impacted by the
construction will need to receive a
Party Wall Notice. “It’s a common
misconception that you only need
a Party Wall agreement if your
property shares a wall with your
neighbour’s, as the Act also comes
into play if you’re building up to
the boundary or digging near their
foundations,” explains Rebecca.
“Your architect or designer
should tell you prior to planning
submission whether a Party Wall

M A S T E R C L A S S

ENVIRONMENTAL
SURVEYS

Award is required. To help pave
the way for a smooth process,
it’s always best to keep your
neighbours in the loop from the
start of your project.”
“To organise a Party Wall
Settlement with each neighbour,
it is typically necessary to hire a
Party Wall surveyor,” says quantity
surveyor Tim Phillips. “In addition
to agreeing on any access rights
needed for workers or to erect
scaffolding, this will safeguard both
parties against risk connected to
claims for harm resulting from the
works. It will also establish work
hours and how disputes will be
managed. If you share an adjoining
wall with a neighbour then you
will most certainly require a
Party Wall Agreement. In Scotland,
the courts must apply Common
Law to resolve disputes and reach
a settlement.

Above With a
new extension,
your architect or
designer should
advise you on
whether a Party
Wall Award
is required

Environmental surveys assess the
ecological impact of your project
and ensure compliance with
environmental regulations. These
surveys are important for:
Protecting wildlife Identifying
protected species and habitats that
may be affected by your project.
Mitigating environmental
impact Developing strategies
to minimise the environmental
impact of construction.
Gaining planning approval
and compliance with
conditions Satisfying any local
authority requirements for
environmental protection.

FLOOD RISK
ASSESSMENTS

Below Flood
risk assessments
highlight the
potential of
flooding to your
property and
the proposed
extension

Flood risk assessments evaluate
the potential risk of flooding
to your property and proposed
extension. This assessment
is crucial for:
Planning permission Meeting
local authority requirements for
flood risk management.
Design considerations
Incorporating flood resilience
measures into your design.
Insurance purposes Providing
evidence for obtaining flood
insurance.

SOIL SURVEYS

Soil surveys analyse the ground
conditions on your site, providing
vital information for foundation
design. These surveys help:
Determine foundation types
Identifying suitable foundation
types based on soil conditions.
Avoid structural issues
Preventing future structural
problems caused by unsuitable
foundations.

homebuilding.co.uk 111

Plan construction methods
Informing construction methods
and materials.

ARBORICULTURAL
SURVEYS

Arboricultural surveys assess the
condition of trees on your land
and their potential impact on
your project. These surveys are
necessary for:
Protecting trees Identifying
trees that need protection during
the construction phase.
Planning permission
Satisfying local authority
requirements for tree protection.
Design integration
Incorporating existing trees into
your design.
A tree survey determines the
impact of your new extension on
any surrounding trees. “The goal is
to locate any trees in the region and
determine their value,” says Tim.
“A trained arborist conducts the
survey, assessing the location and
providing a report identifying any
findings. They may find that some
of the trees on your site, or nearby,

have a TPO (Tree Preservation
Orders) attached to them.”
Be aware that TPOs are designed
to protect an individual tree or
groups of trees and removing,
damaging or destroying any that
are covered by a TPO is an offence,
meaning you may have to amend
the design of your extension in
order to avoid damaging them.
All trees within designated
areas, such as National Landscapes
(formerly known as AONBs) are
protected and planning permission
is needed for any work to the trees.
In terms of costs for a tree survey,
you should factor in approximately
£500 to £1,500, depending on
the number of trees, the size of
garden, and the level of the survey.
“If the proposed actions have the
potential to affect any trees on the
site or nearby, an arboricultural
impact assessment is necessary,’
adds Tim Phillips.
ASBESTOS SURVEYS
If your property was built before
2000, an asbestos survey is
essential to identify and manage
asbestos-containing materials

SURVEY COSTS
SURVEY TYPE

AVERAGE COST

WHAT TO CONSIDER

Land and
Topographical Survey

£400 – £1,000

Costs vary based on property size,
complexity of the terrain, and location.
Larger or more complex sites may incur
higher costs.

Building Survey

£500 – £1,500

Influenced by property size, age and
condition. More extensive surveys for older
or larger properties may be more expensive.

Measured Building Survey

£300 – £1,000

Depends on the level of detail required and
the size of the property. Detailed surveys for
larger properties will cost more.

Utility Survey

£300 – £1,200

Costs depend on the extent of the survey area
and the number of utilities to be mapped.
Complex utility networks increase the cost.
Surveys in urban areas with dense utility
networks tend to be more expensive.

Party Wall Survey

£700 – £1,500

Varies based on the number of adjoining
properties and the complexity of the work.
Additional costs may apply for multiple
neighbours or disputes.

The above prices are averages and can vary significantly based on specific project requirements, location and
market conditions. Always obtain multiple quotes from qualified professionals to get a more accurate estimate for
your particular project.

M A S T E R C L A S S

IMAGE: CHRIS SNOOK

E X T E N S I O N

(ACMs). This survey ensures:
Health and safety
compliance Meeting regulations
for managing asbestos risks.
Safe removal Planning safe
removal or encapsulation of ACMs
before construction begins.
Cost management Avoiding
unexpected costs related to
asbestos management.

COST SURVEYS

Cost surveys, or quantity surveys,
provide detailed estimates of your
project’s costs. These surveys are
critical for:
Budget planning Developing a
realistic budget based on accurate
cost estimates.
Financial control Monitoring
costs throughout the project to
avoid overspending.
Value engineering Identifying
cost-saving opportunities without
compromising quality.
Undertaking an extension or
remodelling project involves
careful planning and consideration
of various factors. Conducting the
necessary surveys is a fundamental
part of this process, ensuring that
you obtain planning permission,
comply with building regulations,
and manage all of your multiple
project costs effectively.
By understanding and addressing
each of the surveys we have outlined
in this guide, you can safely embark
on your home improvement
journey with full confidence,
knowing that you have laid a solid
foundation for success.

homebuilding.co.uk 113

Dramatic black finishes and industrial touches
add impact to Charlotte and Sam Tisdall’s
extended end-terrace home

HOMEOWNERS
Sam and Charlotte Tisdall
LOCATION West London
PROJECT Kitchen extension
HOUSE TYPE Five-bedroom end
terrace Victorian house
EXTENSION SIZE 10m²
BUILD ROUTE
Architect, builder and DIY
BUILD TIME
Five months (kitchen)
HOUSE COST
£700,000 in 2011
BUILD COST £116,000
VALUE £1.3 million+
WORDS Debbie Jeffery
PHOTOGRAPHY Carolyn Barber

TIMELINE
Purchased
SEPTEMBER 2011
Planning obtained
JANUARY 2015
Basement completed
DECEMBER 2018
Garden completed
MAY 2020
Extension started
MARCH 2021
Foundations completed
APRIL 2021
Timber frame erected
MAY 2021
Watertight/first fix completed
JUNE 2021
Second fix
JULY 2021
Completion
AUGUST 2021

rchitect Sam Tisdall had been hoping to find somewhere
unique for his family’s next home. But when he found this
property he was fairly underwhelmed. “Charlotte was
a fan, though,” Sam says of his wife’s opinion, “and we
were drawn to this part of west London, so we decided
to try to make the most of what was essentially a
typical end-terrace Victorian property.” So the
couple moved in just two months before their
second daughter was born in 2011.
Over a period of several years, the couple
modified the narrow building, creating a new
34m² basement level in 2015, remodelling
the garden, and building a 10m² side return
extension in 2021, which opened up the
kitchen to the rear.

POSING QUESTIONS

A condition of the basement work – which was required by
the local authority – was to address historically contaminated
land issues within the rear garden. This meant excavating and
replacing topsoil. While the added cost was unwelcome, it
provided an opportunity to think about the design of the garden
and rear extension as one. Externally, the doors and windows
are stained black. The same colour palette extends outside to the
timber cladding of the extension and the herringbone paving
and burnt oak setts in the garden.
“With two growing daughters, we needed more space,”
explains Sam. “So we asked ourselves what the relationship
was between the house and garden — as well as how to get
light into the rear reception room which I use as a home
office. Relating the kitchen to the rest of the house was
important, and I wanted to resolve these issues in an
interesting and playful way.”

ADDRESSING THE PRACTICALITIES

Gaining planning consent had proved fairly straightforward,
with Sam submitting a single application for both the basement
and the extension. “Once work started on the basement, the
clock was no longer ticking and we were able to take our time
completing everything.”
Built on concrete strip foundations, with pads supporting
structural steelwork, the timber-framed kitchen extension is
clad externally in brickwork and black-stained timber. Backto-back steel channels and a structural steel column, painted
pea green, serve to support the first floor above. The column
sits naturally between the kitchen and dining space, which
nestles under a sloping section of the roof.
“We installed another kitchen in the basement when we
fitted it out,” says Sam. “Which meant we could stay living in
the house throughout the build. The project did coincide with
Covid lockdowns, but fortunately we were able to work with
the restrictions and the new kitchen was finished in just over
five months.”

INNOVATIVE DESIGN

Sam’s design features a large square pivot door onto the garden,
which needed to be craned over the top of the terrace. “The
glazed door is a joy to use and can open wide, as well as creating a
simple framed view when closed,” he says.

116 homebuilding.co.uk

“Leaving materials exposed
and raw adds a certain depth and
texture to a design”
Materials are natural,
with textured clay plaster
walls, ash flooring,
a bespoke birch ply
kitchen, and an oiled
plywood ceiling with
softwood joists all
combining to create
an industrial feel

Where the extension hits the house, structural
glazing above the kitchen extends up to enclose an
existing sash window. As well as allowing lots of
natural light into the living room, it can be opened
for passing tea through from the kitchen but kept
closed when watching TV or doing work.
A change in level between the stepped-down
extension and the main house provides an openedup feel. The split-level space means that the
retained window cill is at head height in the kitchen
and acts as a shelf. From the rear reception room,
there is a comfortable view, both out of the rooflight
and towards the kitchen.

BESPOKE SOLUTIONS

A building contractor undertook the majority of
work, with Sam keen to be as hands-on as possible
throughout the construction. He laid the ash flooring

118 homebuilding.co.uk

and fixed the external timber cladding as well as
building supportive scaffolding for the kitchen
island — a feature that can be easily wheeled out of
the way when more floor space is required. Sam also
constructed the dining bench with its lift-up seat and
he enjoyed the freedom of creating unusual bespoke
pieces of furniture.
“After the nightmare of digging out a basement
below the water table, designing and building our
east-facing kitchen extension was great fun,” says
Sam. “The budget was fairly tight, and we didn’t add
much more space — we just filled in the narrow side
return. But the improvement it’s made to the way
we live and to the rest of the house is incredible.
“Our old kitchen was dark and cold,” says Sam.
“Now, we have underfloor heating as well as masses
of insulation and energy-efficient glazing. It has
made the world of difference.”

Above Ash flooring
was chosen as a
lighter coloured
alternative to oak,
with an attractive
grained appearance
that complements the
kitchen units
Opposite The
ceiling features
spruce ply reveals
for the rooflights and
exposed joinerygrade softwood
rafters — some fake,
some structural

R E A L

P R O J E C T

E X T E N S I O N

homebuilding.co.uk 119

R E A L

P R O J E C T

E X T E N S I O N

This page The ply
kitchen was made to
Sam’s design by a
specialist company
found on Instagram,
with the birch ply
island worktop
finished using
a two-part matt
lacquer for durability

SPOTLIGHT

ON

USING

NATURAL

MATERIALS

The extension design incorporates a range of natural materials: whitewashed timber, clay plaster, ash flooring, birch plywood, and naturally
coloured black pavers. These are carefully curated, with attention to the expression of the roof structure, which is supported by
steel channels and a central steel column.
“Often in the natural world – and occasionally in the built environment – you come across places that have a certain
harmony, which have the capacity to inspire and lift your mood,” says architect Sam Tisdall (pictured). “I aim to try to make
such places and to remember the potential that architecture has to improve people’s daily lives.
“This ambition is easily lost beneath the challenges everyone faces when taking on a project. Designing and building
is not simple. It is subject to a whole range of forces and involves input from a wide variety of people with different
skills and concerns. The architect’s role is to navigate this journey and to empower clients through the process. It
requires a pragmatic and flexible approach, backed up by technical knowledge and an unwavering commitment to
the quality of the finished building.”

homebuilding.co.uk 121

T H E

T H E

D E TA I L S
S U P P L I E R S

P L A N S

ARCHITECT Sam Tisdall Architects LLP:
www.samtisdall.co.uk
KITCHEN

DINING
AREA

STRUCTURAL ENGINEERS Bailiss & Co:
www.bailiss.co.uk
BUILDER Building and Construction
Innovation Ltd: 07508 224317

AFTER

BEFORE

TIMBER CLADDING Thorogood Timber:
www.thorogood.co.uk

KITCHEN

TIMBER PIVOT DOOR, WINDOW
Original Sash: www.originalsash.co.uk
ROOFLIGHT Wood Lane Glazing:
www.woodlaneglazing.co.uk
KITCHEN Plykitchen: www.plykitchen.com
LIGHTING Astro: www.astrolighting.com;
Zangra: www.zangra.com
TILES Waxman ceramics:
www.waxmanceramics.co.uk
LIVING ROOM

LIVING ROOM

CLAY PLASTER Clayworks:
www.clay-works.com
OIL FOR TIMBER Osmo: www.osmouk.com
CLAY PAVERS Vande Moortel:
www.vandemoortel.co.uk

T H E

B U I L D

C O S T S
PRELIMINARIES
DEMOLITION

£12,000
£6,000

FOUNDATIONS, SLAB, STEELWORK,
DRAINAGE
£10,000

FOUNDATIONS Pad and steel post installed.
Strip foundations for the party wall in progress

INSULATION Main slab for insulation and
underfloor heating installed. Ready for screed

TIMBER FRAME

£8,000

BRICKWORK

£6,000

INSULATION AND CLADDING

£9,000

ROOFING

£6,000

WINDOWS/DOORS/GLAZING
(excluding structural glazing)
£6,000

FLOORING Room layout gradually coming
together as the screed is laid

INTERIOR First fix: the room is ready for the
internal joinery

ROOF GRP roof with upstand ready for the flat
rooflight installation

HEATING

£5,000

KITCHEN

£14,000

FLOORING

£3,000

ELECTRICS AND FITTINGS

£6,000

DECORATION, OTHER
JOINERY AND TILING

£8,000

OTHER

£17,000

TOTAL

£116,000

EXTERIOR The external cladding is fitted
(pictured before the ends were cut off)

homebuilding.co.uk 123

5 ways with...

PLYWOOD
A hardworking material of choice for
architects and designers, plywood is
suitable for numerous interior applications

1

1

With simple lines and flush finishes, plywood kitchens
look streamlined and understated, especially when
the beauty of the edge detail is left exposed as part of the
design. Plykea make door and drawer fronts in a range of
wood species and styles to customise Ikea kitchen cabinets,
including this Ash-veneered birch plywood which has been
teamed with brass edge pull handles.

2

Cladding a ceiling will draw the eye upwards to
highlight architectural features like the expansive
rooflights in this open-plan kitchen with bespoke furniture
designed by Uncommon Projects. As well as improving
room acoustics, it brings a sense of warmth to a large area.
To maintain the birch ply’s colour, the sheets were treated
with a fire-resistant finish that contains a white pigment to
counteract the natural yellowing of the wood over time.

TOP
TIP
“Plywood is known for its strength, durability, and
clean Scandi aesthetic, thanks to its multiple layers.
Adding high-pressure laminates like Arpa Bloom
or Formica increases its strength and offers a wide
range of colours. Fenix NTM is an incredible material
with a tactile, velvety soft surface that is super-matt
and anti-fingerprint so it’s great for dark colours.”
KATHRYN DYER, MD, PLYKEA

2

3

TOP
TIP

4

“Birch plywood is best for high-quality
cabinetry due to its consistency in
colour, strength and stability. Whatever
plywood you decide to use, it’s
important that it is sourced responsibly,
from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)
approved sources. Birch plywood
makes efficient use of timber. By layering
thin sheets of wood, manufacturers

can use more of each tree and thereby
reduce waste. Birch trees grow quickly,
so they’re a renewable resource —
European birch plywood is carbon
negative. Its strength and durability
mean products last longer, reducing the
need for frequent replacements.”
ALAN DRUMM, DESIGN DIRECTOR,
UNCOMMON PROJECTS

3

Plywood is often used
as a wall finish with a
contemporary look and is
a good option for covering
imperfect surfaces. There are
different grades, so check
with your supplier or timber
yard for the correct type for
your project. In this south
London extension, a brightly
coloured window frame brings
the natural beauty of the
woodgrain to life.

4

With a strong crosslayered construction,
plywood is suitable for
stairs. An enclosed design
makes a statement feature
and can be used to retrofit
an existing staircase. It can
also be used for custommade storage underneath.
In a double-height space, the
material can be continued
onto the floor above to link
the two levels.

5

Strong, durable and
easy to work with,
plywood is made from thin
layers of wood that have
been glued together using
high pressure and heat to
make solid sheets. It has a
warm, modern aesthetic
making it an ideal choice
for bespoke cabinetry like
this low-level window seat
with drawers, built to fit a
bay window.

WORDS: JO MESSENGER IMAGES: (1) CHRIS SNOOK; (2) JOCELYN LOW; (3, 4 & 5) FUTURE

5

HOW MUCH DOES
EXTERNAL WALL
INSULATION COST?
It’s touted as an affordable home insulation method,
but is external wall insulation worth the outlay and
what are the lifetime costs? We look at the figures…

TIM PHILLIPS

Is a quantity
surveyor and runs
Quantiv.uk, with
over 30 years
of experience
across the
commercial and
residential sector.
@timphillips71

I

n recent years, external wall
insulation (EWI) has drawn a
lot of attention as a practical
and affordable way to increase
a building’s energy efficiency.
EWI has gained popularity for
both residential and commercial
structures because of the growing
emphasis on sustainability and
lowering carbon footprints.
EWI involves mechanically
applying an insulation layer to a
building’s exterior walls before
covering them with a waterproof
mesh and then finishing in cladding
or render for protection. By
preventing heat leakage through
the walls, this layer of insulation
helps to save energy use and
heating costs. EWI can also
improve a building’s visual appeal
and offer more defence against
deterioration and weathering.
However, a number of factors,
such as the building’s size and type,
the installation’s complexity, the

TYPES OF EXTERNAL
WALL INSULATION

There are a variety of EWI systems,
each with their own unique
benefits, drawbacks and features
available. The following are a few
of the more popular systems and an

TYPE OF HOUSE

AVERAGE COST RANGE

Mid-terrace

£8k

Semi-detached

£9.5k

Detached

£19k

*Based on a typical house

126 homebuilding.co.uk

material of choice for the insulation,
and the desired finish, might
affect the price of EWI. Generally
speaking, EWI may require a larger
initial expenditure than typical
insulation techniques, but over time,
the energy savings and increased
comfort can frequently offset the
additional costs
In this article, we’ll examine all
the factors that go into the final
cost of an EWI project, examine
various possibilities for finishing
and insulation materials, and offer
advice on how to set a budget. This
will help readers to decide whether
this energy-efficient solution is
appropriate for their project.

estimate of their costs.
Expanded polystyrene
(EPS) insulation is affordable,
lightweight and simple to install. It
is suitable for most types of homes,
is very popular and is available
in different thicknesses. When
materials and installation are
included, the price per square
metre is usually £60–£80.
Extruded polystyrene
(XPS) insulation — compared
to expanded polystyrene
(EPS), extruded polystyrene
(XPS) insulation has a greater
compressive strength and moisture
resistance and is normally used
below your DPC. The average cost
per square metre is between £80
and £100, making it more costly,
but essential in protecting your
damp-proof course.
Phenolic foam insulation
Because phenolic foam boards
are thin and have a high heat
performance, they are a good
option for structures with limited
insulation space. They do, however,
often cost more, generally between
£90 and £120/m2.
Polyurethane (PUR)
insulation Frequently used in
high-performance EWI systems,
PUR insulation provides exceptional
thermal efficiency. With prices per
square metre ranging from £100

B U I L D

C O S T

C L I N I C

to £150, it is one of the costliest
options, but you have to weigh this
up against your reduced energy
bills and the payback period.
It’s crucial to remember that these
costs are approximations and may
change based on the project’s
size, installation complexity,
material and finish selection, and
property location, among other
considerations. For homeowners
to determine the precise cost of
their unique EWI requirements,
they should get comprehensive
quotations from at least three
reliable EWI contractors. Contact
EWI suppliers like EWI Store for
possible contractors in your area
and a full range of materials should
you wish to buy directly.

Your EWI project’s final cost may
vary depending on the finish you
choose. The following describes
how various finishes could impact
the total cost:
Standard render finishes
Compared to luxury finishes
like silicone or acrylic renders,
standard cement or polymer
renders are usually less expensive.
These renders offer a weatherresistant, long-lasting surface at
a comparatively reduced price.
£30–£50/m2.
Acrylic/silicone renders
Compared to normal renders,
acrylic and silicone renders offer
improved flexibility, durability
and colour retention. However,
because of their higher calibre and
functionality, they are usually more
costly. £50–£80/m2.
Pebble dash This is where a
wet render surface is covered with
small stones or aggregates to give
a textured finish. It may cost less in
materials than other render finishes,
but may require more labour during
application, which could increase
installation costs. £40–£60/m2.
Brick slips These add-ons give an
EWI project a classic brick finish
and can raise or lower project
costs. Brick slip installation costs
are influenced by various factors,
including the type of brick slip,

INSULATION TYPE
Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) Insulation 70mm
Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) Insulation 70mm
Phenolic Foam Insulation (Kingspan K5) 70mm
Polyurethane (PUR) Insulation 70mm

AVERAGE COST/M2
£33
£38
£52
£100–£150

*Based on materials only. Average three-bed home, including fixings and beads.

labour required and installation
technique. Since brick slips require
more materials and require more
skill to apply, they are typically
more expensive than standard
render finishes. £80–£150/m2.
Cladding Depending on the kind
of cladding material you select –
wood, PVC, metal, or composite
panels – the cost of adding
cladding to your EWI system may
differ. They might cost more up front
but some cladding materials have
long-term durability and aesthetic
appeal. £40–£120/m2.
Decorative finishes Compared
to normal finishes, some decorative
finishes—like textured coatings,
unique paint effects, or creative
designs—may be more expensive.
These finishes may cost more, but
they can give your home more
visual appeal and charm.
£50–£200/m2.

COMPARING QUOTES
As with any type of work, it’s a
good idea to get a minimum of

Above
This 1970s
home in
Shropshire was
fully insulated
using 200mm
of polystyrene
external wall
insulation, which
contributes to
windtightness as
well as keeping
the house
warmer in winter
and cooler in
summer

three quotations from different
EWI installers to compare costs
and ensure that you’re getting a
fair price for your project. To make
sure you’re getting the most return
on your investment, you should
compare quotations for EWI, taking
into account a number of important
elements. The following are some
essential factors to consider:
Material quality Evaluate the
materials that are suggested in each
quote. The quality and performance
of various finishes and materials
for EWI can differ greatly. Verify
that the materials are appropriate
for your needs and adhere to the
relevant industry standards, i.e.
Building Regulations and
planning constraints.
Insulation thickness The
insulation layer’s thermal
performance may be affected by its
thickness. Examine how each quote
compares in terms of insulation
thickness and how well it meets
your energy-saving objectives.
Check the U value of the proposed

IMAGE: JEREMY PHILLIPS

CHOOSING
YOUR FINISH

homebuilding.co.uk 127

IMAGE: LES GRAVES

insulation and ask for a thermal
desk study to see what the finished
thermal efficiency of the wall will
be for differing options.
Installation technique
Consider the suggested installation
method described in each
quotation. The durability and
quality of the completed EWI system
can be impacted by the installation
team’s skill and experience. Seek
out trustworthy installers who have
a history of completed installations.
Check that your quotation allows
for the correct hammer fixings and
also includes starter, corner and
stop beads, too.
Warranties and guarantees
Find out if the quotes include any
warranties or guarantees regarding
the workmanship and materials.
A comprehensive warranty can
offer protection against future
problems and provide peace of
mind. This may be a third-party
warranty, which also protects you
if your installer becomes insolvent
or ceases trading.
Energy-efficiency benefits
Take into account the possible

energy savings connected to every
EWI technology. Some quotations
might offer approximations of
anticipated energy savings in the
future, which could support the case
for the initial outlay.
Aesthetics Assess the suggested
EWI system’s visual appeal. There
are various colours and finishes to
select from, silicone render, brick
slips or you could even overlay with
timber cladding, so choose one that
fits your tastes and the architectural
design of your house.
Cost transparency Verify that

indication of poor craftsmanship.
References and reviews Try
to find out how well known the
contractors offering the quotes
are. To determine client happiness
and the calibre of their work,
search out online reviews,
testimonies and samples of the
company’s previous projects.
Homeowners can choose the
EWI solution that best suits their
demands in terms of performance,
durability, price, and aesthetics by
carefully comparing these elements
across their quotations.

“A comprehensive warranty can offer protection
against future problems and provide peace of mind”

Below One wall
of this coastal
home is fitted
with external
wall insulation
to protect it from
the worst of the
winter storms

the quotations include a thorough
analysis of all the costs, including
labour, materials and any other
out-of-pocket charges like
scaffolding and skips. Quotes
that appear abnormally low should
be avoided as it’s very likely that
they might not include all the
required materials or might be an

ADDITIONAL EXTRAS
TO CONSIDER

Scaffolding will be required around
your property for the EWI project.
Analyse your EWI quotation to
see if scaffolding is included in
the price. Scaffolding for a typical
three-bedroom semi-detached
house costs around £1,000 to hire,
with permits and licences.
Arranging for the installation
of EWI in conjunction with other
remodelling or maintenance tasks
might help keep expenses down.
If you already have plans to paint
your home or fix your roof, for
instance, combining these tasks will
result in lower costs for labour, plant
and scaffolding.

WHAT FUNDING
IS AVAILABLE?

There are subsidies available for
external wall insulation, as well
as other energy-saving measures,
through a number of government
funding opportunities and
initiatives. Among the most
popular of these are:
Energy Company Obligation
4 (ECO 4) Under this continuous
government programme, larger
energy companies are required
to pay for home energy-efficiency
upgrades. Your home may be
eligible for free or significantly
subsidised EWI installations
under ECO 4, especially if your

128 homebuilding.co.uk

B U I L D

POTENTIAL SAVINGS
AND ADDING VALUE

Maintaining a building’s heat
lowers energy costs significantly.
Installing 90mm of EPS onto a solid
masonry wall can result in annual
energy bill savings of about £455
for a detached four-bedroom home.
Variables will obviously come into
play, such as the energy efficiency
of your heating system, the building

design and the existing roof and
floor insulation, local climate
and your heating demands. With
the UK now facing constantly
increasing energy bills, EWI can
play a significant role in achieving
household energy efficiency and
heating cost reduction.
Installing EWI and calculating
the added value is contingent
upon several factors, including
its intended purpose, location,
and the type of home it would
complement. Depending on the
original wall construction and its
U value, i.e. empty/filled cavity
or solid wall and state of the local
property market, EWI can raise
the value of your home by 5–10%.
Consult a nearby estate agent to
determine the additional value.
It’s critical to assess the property
values in your neighbourhood. By
exercising caution in this manner,
you can guard against the risk
of investing money on EWI that
doesn’t increase the property’s
value or payback and so prevent
financial losses.

Above This
renovated
home features
a render system
from Sto that
includes 100mm
of expanded
polystyrene
(EPS), finished
with a thin layer
of acrylic render

C L I N I C

TOP
TIP
“The depth of external wall
insulation can be relatively
thick since there are fewer
restrictions on space on
the outer face compared
to insulating cavities or
internally. It should also
provide better airtightness.
Compared to internal wall
insulation there’s also no loss
of floor space to worry about
and relatively little disruption.
Plus it can work wonders
giving ugly buildings a
spanking new facelift!”
IAN ROCK (FRICS),
CHARTERED SURVEYOR

IMAGE: ALISTAIR NICHOLLS

household is of low-income and/or
receiving specific benefits.
Great British Insulation
scheme A government
programme which helps British
homes become more energyefficient. Targeting the nation’s
least energy-efficient houses, it is
managed by Ofgem and aims to
combat fuel poverty and lower
energy costs. The programme,
commonly referred to as ECO+,
is different from the (ECO 4)
programme, which is intended for
low-income households.
Local authority grants A few
local authorities provide funds or
grants via ECO Flex and LA Flex
to encourage energy-efficient
improvements, such as the
installation of EWIs. For information
on available grants and eligibility
requirements, homeowners can
consult the website of their local
council or get in touch with them
as these programmes differ
depending on the area.
Using the government’s
online eligibility checker
(www.gov.uk/apply-great-britishinsulation-scheme) is the quickest
and most straightforward method
to begin the application process.
You will be asked about your
address, council tax band, energy
supplier, and whether you are a
landlord, renter or homeowner.
Before starting an EWI project,
homeowners should thoroughly
investigate all funding sources
and qualifying requirements.
Additionally, homeowners may
make sure they get the most out
of any subsidies or financing
they receive by getting numerous
quotations and working with
accredited installers.

C O S T

homebuilding.co.uk 129

SOURCING
SUPPLIERS

FOR YOUR
DREAM HOME?
The National Custom & Self Build Association
campaigns to remove the barriers to more people
in the UK building their own home. Look out
for the NaCSBA stamp and be assured that
you’ll be working with a company you can trust.

MAKE SURE YOU
LOOK OUT FOR THESE
NACSBA STAMPS

l All members are committed to working with
self- builders in a fair and transparent manner
l All members are funding the growth of the sector
so more people can have an individual home
l All members are covered by NaCSBA’s consumer
Code of Practice – to protect you if things go wrong

A FULL LIST OF MEMBERS CAN BE FOUND AT:

www.selfbuildportal.org.uk/members

PART 14

HOW TO
BUILD A
HOUSE

Second fix stage: what you need to
know as your self-build approaches
this exciting part of the project

MARK
STEVENSON

IMAGE: PAUL CRAIG

Has worked in
construction for
30 years and
following a
long career in
housebuilding he
was managing
director of Potton,
designers and
manufacturers
of bespoke selfbuild homes.

132 homebuilding.co.uk

O

f all the stages of a build,
the second fix is my
favourite — it’s where all
the visions come to life and houses
become homes. The second fix is
when all the fixtures and fittings are
installed — including hard flooring
and ceramic tiling, bathroom
fittings, internal doors, joinery
mouldings plus electrical sockets
and switches.
As with the first fix, the second
fix is a busy part of the build
involving lots of different trades,
all of whom seem to want to be in
the same room at the same time.
Good project management skills
are needed to juggle the activities
and get the work done in a logical
sequence. It’s best to start the
second fix with fitting the big
stuff first — the bathroom fittings,
heating system, internal doors, and
so on. These are difficult to move
around and install, and there’s a
risk of damage, so get this out of
the way before the fully finished
materials appear. The main
activities and the sequence
of installation is as follows;

1

HEATING SYSTEMS

The first job is to check that
no damage has occurred to
pipework during the earlier stage
of the build. As the pipes are mostly

hidden within walls and floors,
the easiest way to check is to carry
out a pressure test. If the pressure
holds, it’s reasonable to assume no
pipes have been nailed, so work can
proceed! The plumber will fit the
radiators and put the boiler in place
so pipework can be connected.
If you’ve not agreed on where
everything’s going, now is the time
to sort this out, otherwise your
plumber will decide for you.

2

BATHROOM
FITTINGS

The next job will be to install
the bathroom fittings. Baths are
bulky items, so get them loaded
out before installing the doors and
banister rails. For an experienced
plumber, fitting the sanitaryware
is straightforward, but it’s still best
to check that baths and shower
trays are perfectly level as this will
make the ceramic tiling easier. In

When it comes to flooring, it’s
worth taking some advice from
a specialist floor layer as there’s
nothing worse when it goes wrong.
By following the guidance, if
problems arise you’ll at least have
some recourse to get repairs done.

5

3

CERAMIC TILING

Once the bathroom fittings
have been installed, the
ceramic tiling can be done in
the bathrooms and wetrooms.
Speaking from experience, ceramic
tiling is hard work and requires
a fair amount of skill to get the
setting out right and cut all the tiles
accurately — in my opinion, it’s best
left to professionals. Tiles come
as either ceramics or might be cut
from natural materials such as
travertine or limestone. The latter
will require a few coats of stone
sealer before they can be laid, so if
you want to save a few pounds, buy
a brush and prepare them yourself.
A word of warning, not all ceramic
tiles are ceramic and some come
as porcelain. Whilst porcelain is
beautiful it is also incredibly hard,
very difficult to cut and almost
impossible to drill. In some senses,
this is all a problem for the tiling
contractor, but if they know they’ll
be working with porcelain, the bill
will go up to reflect the extra time
and drill bits needed.

4

FLOOR FINISHES

Floor finishes such as wood,
ceramic and vinyl expand

and contract with temperature
and therefore a movement gap is
needed around the perimeter of
rooms. The gap is usually around
10mm so is unsightly and best
hidden by the skirtings. It’s a bit
trickier at door openings but
with the help of threshold bars,
movement gaps can be easily
hidden. This all means that floor
finishes have to be installed earlier
than expected so the joinery
mouldings can be fixed over the
top to cloak the gap. The flooring
therefore needs a bit of a plan to
make sure it’s installed correctly
and protected from damage by the
following trades.
Hard floor finishes are usually
glued in place and depending on
which type of screed was used,
specialist adhesives might be
needed. Most adhesives will stick
to sand and cement screeds, but as
they have greater level tolerances,
a self-levelling latex might be
required to provide a flatter surface
to lay on. Anhydrite screeds,
otherwise known as a liquid
screed, are made from gypsum and
standard ceramic tiling adhesive
won’t stick to it — believe me, I’ve
tried and failed! The surface of a
liquid screed will therefore need
a scrape to remove surface flaking
and a specialist sealer applied
before ceramic tiling can be laid.
Another problem to manage is
moisture content and depending
on the flooring being fixed, the
screed will need to have a relative
humidity below 75%. The flooring
contractor will check and if it’s too
wet the choice will be to wait until
the screeds dried or apply a costly
liquid DPM.

Internal doors come in
all sorts of shapes and sizes and a
vast array of finishes. The choice
is immense, and depending on
what you’ve chosen, you could
be in for lots of work. These days
the preference is for pre-finished
doors and some of these even come
pre-fitted to their door frames.
Pre-finished doors are a great idea,
but they will cost more and with
anything that’s pre-finished and
expensive, should be left as late as
possible to avoid damage. If your
budget’s tight, unfinished doors are
much more affordable. However,

TOP
TIP
Before fitting internal doors, let
them acclimatise by standing
them in the room for about a
week or so. Doors don’t like
excessive moisture, so make
sure that the plaster has dried
out fully and ensure they’re
stored flat and well supported,
to prevent bowing.

IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES

wetrooms, go the extra mile and
seal around the fittings before
doing the ceramic tiling as this will
help to keep them in place and will
add an extra layer of defence if the
finished sealant fails. Bathroom
fittings, such as cupboards and
vanity units, are joinery items and
best fitted by a carpenter. Low-level
units also make good steps to stand
on, so cover them in their delivery
boxes to provide some protection.

INTERNAL DOORS
AND FRAMES

homebuilding.co.uk 133

H O W

as they’re unfinished they’ll be very
responsive to moisture and expand
and contract with the relative
humidity of the atmosphere.
Before installing doors, it’s best
to make sure the plaster has dried
out. You should also allow time
for the doors to acclimatise before
they’re installed by storing them
where they’ll be fitted — a week
or so is sufficient. If you rush, a
perfectly fitted door could shrink,
quickly looking like a bodged job.
If your home needs fire doors,
the specification of internal door
frames and ironmongery must
match the relevant fire test. This
is often overlooked and becomes a
problem when questions are asked
at completion by building control.
Consult your supplier who’ll
provide the necessary info to keep
your build safe.

6

JOINERY
MOULDINGS

Install the skirtings and
architraves with care and attention
and the room transformation will be
instantaneous. Cut the architraves
to size and glue them together
before pinning them to each
side of the door frame. Get your
measurements right and the mitres
will be perfect with the margins
around the frame consistent.
Where it goes wrong is when
the door frames are undersized

and not as wide as the wall where
they’re fitted. The projecting wall
plaster causes the architraves to
kick out making them hard to fit.
It’s not the biggest issue you’ll face
on a build but as architraves are in
your eyeline, you’ll be regularly
reminded by the unsightly finish,
so take your time to get it right.
Fitting the skirtings is a bit easier
than the architraves but with big
rooms you’ll have to handle long
lengths. Once again, the skirting is
pinned in place, so before driving
nails into the wall, check for pipes
and cables that could get damaged.

7

SOCKETS,
SWITCHES AND
LIGHT FITTINGS

The last trade in the second fix
is the electrician, who will fit
the switches, sockets and other

TOP
TIP
Painting behind wall-hung
fittings such as radiators, boilers
and manifolds, is really difficult.
To make life easy, paint the walls
where these fittings are going to
be installed before the plumber
starts work.

IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

COMMON PROBLEMS TO AVOID

Bad planning Second fix is a flurry
of activity with lots of people coming
and going, doing bits of work at a time.
It’s vital that the right sequence is
followed so trades don’t get held up and
the job isn’t made any harder than it
needs to be. It’s good to talk, so discuss
the build sequence with the key trades
and remember, electricians are often
precious so leave them till last.
Changing your mind The second
fix is when your home starts to come
to life, and there’s every chance that
despite endless planning you could
have overlooked some sort of feature
or functionality. Making alterations
at this stage is extremely disruptive so

avoid changes by knowing exactly what
you want and thoroughly check that
everything’s in place at first fix stage.
Rushing to get done It’s
understandable that as the build
reaches completion, the momentum
leads to corners being cut and jobs
being rushed. Generally, nothing will
go wrong but make sure enough time
is allowed for the build to dry out so
joinery can acclimatise properly.
Not having the fixtures and
fittings required The second fix
involves hundreds of components
sourced from multiple suppliers.
Some equipment, such as thermostats
and manifolds, which come with the

T O

B U I L D

electrical equipment. Provided the
cabling has been done correctly,
the process is straightforward and
just requires fitting after fitting to
be installed. If a cable is missing
or something has been nailed,
the electrician will cause damage
while tracing faults and solving
problems. If this happens, you’ll
find a few cut-outs in the walls, but
don’t worry, they’re easily repaired.
As walls become littered with
electrical fittings, it’s a good idea to
brush some emulsion around each
fitting before the faceplates are
fitted. This will make it much easier
for the decorators to ‘cut in’ and
should minimise the risk of getting
paint on the pre-finished fittings.
Next month: progressing
into the finishings trades.

underfloor heating, will be supplied
earlier in the build. Draw up a checklist
of what’s needed and make sure critical
components that might be difficult and
expensive to replace aren’t lost.
Theft Trades are not thieves — they
need the materials to do their job. But
second fix materials are high value and
easily taken so thieves might target
your build to rob for anything that can
be sold on. So now is the time to take
extra security precautions.
Fitting expensive fixtures too
early Kitchens and designer staircases
cost a small fortune, so these are best
left until the final fix when there’s less
chance of them getting damaged.

homebuilding.co.uk 135

A D V E R T O R I A L

PLANNING
FOR SUCCESS

Planning a self-build, renovation or extension? Here’s how to avoid
financial fears and make informed decisions to realise your dream project

*OPINION MATTERS SURVEY FOR CIOB

P

lanning and preparation are key to success
for any self-build project — with financial
factors being the main consideration from
the outset. But according to a recent survey,*
despite being worried about the cost-ofliving crisis affecting their home improvement plans,
almost half of homeowners who are planning a home
improvement project in the next 12 months don’t
think having a written contract with their builder
or tradesperson is essential. Additionally, less than
a third actually check references, qualifications and
professional accreditations.
“Making improvements to your home is exciting
and it’s natural people just want to get going on
their projects,” says Linda Stevens, head of client
development at the Chartered Institute of Building.
“But taking time to do background checks, planning
your budget and putting contracts in place will go a
long way to ensuring you get the best possible results,
spend your money wisely and have a beautiful home
to show for your efforts.”
Established in 1834, the Chartered Institute
of Building (CIOB) are a global organisation and
the construction industry’s leading experts, with
members across the UK who help produce exemplary
projects for their self-build clients. So what are their
recommended top tips for getting the best from your
contractors and ensuring financial stability during
your self-build project?
● Set a realistic budget for your project that includes
a contingency for any unexpected costs.
● Commit to sticking to a budget and check at regular
intervals that your project is in line with it. Avoid
making last-minute changes.
● Select a minimum of three builders and check their

references, reviews and accreditation — even if they
have been recommended to you.
● Provide each builder with the same info about your
project and invite them to quote. Depending on your
project, you may need a professional to draw up plans,
which should be shared with each builder to enable
them to provide an accurate quote.
● When comparing quotes, consider value for money.
Cheapest is not always best — you get what you pay for.
● Agree a written contract with your builder that
covers payment terms, start and completion dates,
materials, subcontractors, security, health and safety,
cleaning up and waste disposal. (See the below CIOB
website link for free contract templates.)
● The contract should commit the builder to return
after completion to fix any issues or ‘snags’ you have
discovered – such as cracked plaster or paint – before
receiving the final payment.
CIOB’s online resources, templates and
advice are free to all. For more information,
visit: www.ciob.me/homeowners

FOCUS ON

OFF-MAINS
DRAINAGE

Pipes not connected to the mains?
Here are the pros and cons of your
options and the different systems

IAN ROCK

Is a chartered
surveyor and
author of eight
popular Haynes
Home Manuals.

Right This
self-build project
is off-mains
drainage so
the owners had
a septic tank
installed

court’ in the garden. When we
quizzed her about the property’s
drainage arrangements,
however, she wasn’t particularly
forthcoming, other than
confirming the house wasn’t
connected to a public sewer.
Things took a slightly surreal
turn when I casually mentioned
that private drainage systems

require periodic emptying. This
observation evidently came as
unwelcome news and in a slightly
peeved tone of voice she declared
“Well my late aunt lived here
for more than 40 years and never
had it emptied”.
As prospective tenants we
thought it best not to pursue this
line of questioning. Happily I can

IMAGE: JEREMY PHILLIPS

L

ast year, my wife and I rented a
small farm cottage in the Wye
Valley as a temporary base to
search for the barn conversion
home that we are now busy
renovating. Before signing the
tenancy agreement, we met up
with the elderly owner who took
great delight in showing us the
newly constructed ‘petanque

now report that while in residence
we experienced no issues with the
drainage, although it did occur to
me that the neighbours further
down the hill might have more
than their fair share of effluent to
contend with.

PRIVATE DRAINAGE

Picture your ideal plot for a new
home or renovation project and the
chances are a pastoral haven would
come to mind. But the reality of
living ‘away from it all’ often means
living with off-mains drainage.
On the plus side, as an owner
of a private drainage system you
can wave goodbye to ever-inflating
bills from the water companies.
However, having a private drainage
system also means you can no
longer simply ‘flush and forget’ and
to pre-empt any risk of malodorous

SEPTIC TANK
As the most common method
of off-mains drainage, septic
tanks are essentially a more
advanced and compact version
of the traditional subterranean
cesspit (minimum size 2,720
litres). They have two separate
compartments that use gravity
to separate ‘solids’ from
liquids. The solids settle in the
first chamber and reduce in
volume over time thanks to
bacterial decomposition. The
liquid effluent then flows into
the second chamber for filtering
before being discharged via an
outlet to a drainage field where
it percolates through the soil
and is naturally broken down.
Although septic tanks still
need to be periodically emptied
by a mobile tanker and any
accumulated sludge removed,
the frequency is a lot less than
for cesspits, perhaps only once
a year (depending on tank
capacity and the household
head count).

140 homebuilding.co.uk

mishaps arising it’s essential to
understand how off-mains systems
work and to be aware of owners’
legal responsibilities. To avoid
pitfalls when buying a property
with private drainage it’s always
advisable to instruct a specialist
test — see www.rightsurvey.co.uk/
drainage-surveys.

If you’re simply replacing an
existing system, however, there’s
no requirement to get additional
permission. But in both cases,
Building Regulations approval
will be required. Approved
Document H deals with foul water
(from toilets, basins, baths, sinks,
washing machines, etc) as well

“As an owner of a private drainage system
you can wave goodbye to ever-inflating
bills from the water companies”
REGULATIONS

Installing a new septic tank or
treatment plant normally requires
planning permission, although this
usually falls under the umbrella of
the application for a new dwelling.

as dispersal of surface water (i.e.
rainwater).
The Building Regs dictate
matters such as the siting of tanks,
which should be located minimum
seven metres from a dwelling
and at least 50m from any well or
borehole supplying drinking water.

CESSPITS

A cesspit (or ‘cesspool’) is an
underground tank into which
wastewater and sewage are
piped and stored until it is emptied
at regular intervals by a licenced
waste contractor. Access for the
pumping truck’s hose is via a small
inspection cover that is sited at
ground level.
Modern units are manufactured
as ready-made sealed tanks with
a small vent that is designed to
prevent the build-up of potentially
explosive gases. Typically, these
are of fibreglass construction with
a sizeable capacity of minimum
18,000 litres. Before the advent of
effective public health legislation
however, many cesspits were of
rudimentary brick construction
and were prone to leakage,
resulting in contamination
and disease.
Although new cesspits are
banned in Scotland and are
regarded as a last-resort option
elsewhere in Britain, some rural
homes still have functioning
units that, in many cases, will
eventually need improvement
or replacement. The main
drawback of cesspits is the need

F O C U S

for frequent emptying every six to
eight weeks, which can cost owners
anything up to £2,000 per year.

DOMESTIC SEWAGE
TREATMENT PLANTS

Treatment plants are a higher
tech version of the septic tank and
are designed to process sewage
and disperse the liquid effluent
more efficiently. They work by
circulating air within the unit to
promote the growth of bacteria,
speeding up the breakdown of
foul waste.
This has two key benefits — by
reducing the volume of matter the
need for emptying is less frequent,
and because the treated effluent
is of a higher quality (some claim
98% efficiency) discharge into a
water course rather than a drainage
field is often acceptable. To boost
the natural activity of microorganisms in breaking down solid
faecal matter some models use
rotating discs or paddles to churn
the waste, others work by blowing
compressed air up from the bottom
of the tank.
Although domestic sewage
treatment plants are more
expensive than septic tanks the
savings from reduced frequency
of emptying (average once every
three years) makes them cost
effective, although electricity
consumption requires factoring
in with powered models.

DRAINAGE FIELDS

IMAGES: (OPPOSITE) GETTY IMAGES; (RIGHT) SIMON MAXWELL

Drainage beds are areas of land
used for filtering the liquid
This off-grid and off-mains
straw bale and timber frame
home includes a domestic
sewage treatment plant

O N

REED BEDS
If space permits, reed beds can provide the optimum ecological solution to dealing
with the effluent from private drainage systems. Reed beds work as a natural treatment
plant, absorbing large amounts of effluent without any need for power, relying on microorganisms to digest the sewage and clean the water. They’re often used in combination
with a septic tank, producing cleaner water while providing a habitat for wildlife. Some
systems are constructed as shallow ponds lined and filled with soil and gravel as a base
for reeds, others use a series of floating beds of reeds. The main drawback is cost and the
need for a minimum 20 square metres of suitable land located well away from the house.

discharge from septic tanks or
sewage treatment plants. They
allow waste water to gradually
dissipate through the soil, rather
than being dispersed directly
into water courses. For obvious
reasons these are best located
downhill from the tank and well
away from the dwelling.
Leachfields are man-made
drainage beds comprising a series
of perforated pipes laid in trenches.
But in all cases, the suitability
of a piece of land will depend on
the extent of available space and
how porous the ground is, hence a
percolation test will normally be
required to assess the suitability of
the land for discharge.

REGISTRATION OF
PRIVATE SYSTEMS

Off-mains drainage systems such
as septic tanks and treatment
plants need to be registered with
the Environment Agency. Unless
registered, homeowners are

potentially at risk of significant
fines. Small domestic discharges
(less than 2,000 litres a day to the
ground) will normally be exempt
but you can check if you need to
apply for a Consent to Discharge
licence at www.environmentagency.gov.uk.
Recent changes in legislation
mean that any property that isn’t
compliant with current legislation
is legally unsellable. If you’ve got an
existing septic tank that discharges
to a functioning ‘drainage field’
then you should be OK but if it

“Drainage systems such as
septic tanks and treatment
plants need to be registered
with the Environment Agency”
discharges liquid effluent directly
to a watercourse (river, ditch,
stream, etc) you will need to
upgrade it to comply with current
regulations. This will either mean
replacing it with a modern sewage
treatment plant that can produce
effluent that’s clean enough to
discharge into a watercourse, or it
will mean installing a new drainage
field or reed bed to disperse the
existing liquid effluent safely into
the ground.
A better solution would be to
connect to a public sewer, where
for example a mains system
was subsequently installed in a
formerly isolated area after the
original house was built.

homebuilding.co.uk 141

DAVID HILTON
Is an expert in energy
efficiency and Director of
Heat & Energy Ltd.

STEVE JENKINS
Is an avid DIYer and has
been a writer and editor for
over two decades.

ALFIE BURROWS
Is director of AB Drylining,
with 20 years’ experience
in the residential and
commercial sector.

PHIL MESSENGER

Is founder of Messenger

Bespoke and has been a
joiner for more than
30 years.

IMAGE: MEGAN TAYLOR

NIMI ATTANAYAKE
Is director and co-founder
of Nimtim Architects.

NATASHA BRINSMEAD
Is associate editor and
has renovated her own
Edwardian home.

ASK THE
Got a burning question about your self-build, extension or home
renovation project that you need answering? Why not drop us a
line by emailing homebuilding@futurenet.com and your question
could be answered by one of our magazine experts

Can I use
metal
cladding
on my loft
conversion?

Y

es you certainly
can and there are a
variety of different
options — from traditional
lead work to zinc, as well
as the corrugated metal
we used here on our Tin
Hat project. However,
it is usually a little more
difficult to secure planning
approval as local
authorities will default
to expecting the same
material as the main roof.
There are also some
considerations around fire
safety – not because metal
is necessarily less safe, but
because build-ups won’t
have been tested. This is
something you might need
help with from an architect
or competent designer.
Assuming these issues
can be resolved, there are
definite advantages: it’s
virtually maintenance-free,
can come in a variety of
colours and finishes and
looks contemporary and
unique. The cladding can
also be easily dismantled
and recycled.
NIMI ATTANAYAKE,
NIMTIM ARCHITECTS

homebuilding.co.uk 143

Can I spray paint my kitchen units?

S

pray painting cabinets is a
task any DIYer can take on
and is a cost-effective way of
transforming your kitchen. It is much
faster than other paint techniques
and will result in a smooth, durable,
professional-looking finish. There’s
a lot of options when choosing paint
for spraying kitchen cabinets, but
you want something hardwearing
and durable.
Your choice of paint sprayer will
depend on how many cabinets
you’re painting, budget and how
often you are going to reuse it. If
you’re looking at a one-off or very
occasional paint project you don’t
want to be splashing out on a costly
one. If you have a large project and
plan to use a paint sprayer on other
DIY projects, an airless sprayer is
typically a better option.
Ensure you properly prepare and
set up before starting and if you’re
a spray paint novice, I suggest you
perform a few practice runs on
waste wood to hone your skills first
before starting on your cabinets.
Unlike with brush strokes, where
you can see where paint is applied,
it is necessary to use multiple
light coats when spray painting,
which requires careful technique.
Annoyingly, if you do make a
mistake, you need to prep and paint
again. You will also need a space
where you can spray the cabinets
and leave them to dry.

1PREP YOUR UNITS

IMAGE: COLIN POOLE / FUTURE

There are a few options here.
You can remove doors, drawers,
shelves and cabinets to paint
elsewhere or just remove doors/
drawers/shelves and leave
cabinets in situ. If you choose to do
this, use masking tape and plastic
sheets to mask off all areas that you
don’t want spraying.

144 homebuilding.co.uk

HARDWARE
2REMOVE
AND CLEAN

First remove any hardware, such as
hinges and handles, then use sugar
soap to clean and degrease all
surfaces to be painted. Wipe down
with a damp cloth and leave to dry.

3SAND SURFACES

Using a fine grit sandpaper –
180–220 is good – rub down all
parts of the surfaces to be painted.
If painting glossy cabinets, ensure
there are no shiny surfaces left
exposed. When finished, wipe
down with a damp cloth to get rid of
any dust. Good prep will result in a
better adhesion of the paint.

4SET UP TO SPRAY

You will need a well ventilated
room or area to spray in, so open a
door or window. Then put up plastic
sheets to cover surfaces that aren’t
being painted and set up a table in
the middle of the room.
Get a box or similar to place the
doors and drawers on. You can add
a turntable to rotate the items for
easier painting.
If spraying cabinets, raise them
off the ground a few inches using

wooden blocks or similar, but
make sure they are steady.

5SPRAY PAINT

Always wear a face mask and
gloves when spraying. Place the
piece to be painted on the box and
start with the back (if painting).
Hold the nozzle 8–12 inches
away from the surface and use
even consistent strokes to apply
a thin layer of paint. Now place
the item away from the spraying
area and leave to dry as per the
manufacturers recommendation.
Repeat for all that’s being painted.
Once dry, paint the top, starting
with the edges and work across the
surface to the other edge. When
dry, repeat the complete process,
two coats should be enough. When
painting cabinets start inside and
do the back panel first, then the
sides and the front edges, followed
by the outside and leave to dry.
STEVE JENKINS, DECORATOR

A S K

JARGON
BUSTER
WHAT IS TADELAKT?

Tadelakt is a traditional
Moroccan plastering
technique known for
its smooth, waterproof
finish and natural,
organic marble-like
appearance. It is highly
versatile, being used for
walls, floors, bathrooms,
and even outdoor areas,
combining durability
with aesthetic appeal.
Valentin Tatanov is
managing director
of Tadelakt London

T H E

E X P E R T S

When should I consider installing a side
sectional garage door?

T

his style of door has many
advantages. It opens along
the side wall of the garage,
which leaves the ceiling clear of
tracks, plus the door isn’t over your
head when open and it’s amazing
how different that makes a garage
feel. The doors can be insulated,
which is great if you want to keep
some heat in the garage and are
usually automated, so you are
able to choose whether to open
them fully or just a metre or so for
pedestrian access. The external
appearance of side sectional
garage doors is generally more
attractive because of the vertical
configuration of the panels.
It’s also easier to work with vertical

lines from a design point of view,
for example, if matching a garage
door to that of a front door or other
design elements of a property.
IAN CHUBB, MD OF DEUREN

TOP
TIP

What are composite windows?

IMAGES: (TOP) DEUREN; (BOTTOM) VELFAC

T

hese are windows with frames made
of two different materials, usually timber
on the inside and aluminium on the
outside.They are available in many shapes,
sizes and colours and are most commonly
seen on contemporary properties, where
their unfussy external appearance looks
particularly fitting.
Unlike ‘Alu Clad’ windows, where the
sash and mainframe are produced primarily
from timber and only faced with a layer
of aluminium, true composite window
systems feature an independent aluminium
sash on one side and timber mainframe
on the other. In this case, the individual
materials are easily distinguishable within

the true composite structure and are bonded
together to provide unique properties and
excellent performance.
Composite windows are very thermally
efficient and tend to offer a high
level of insulation due to the natural
insulation characteristics of timber,
plus the aluminium on the outside is
low maintenance, removing one of the
downsides of using timber, which requires
ongoing maintenance through its life.
They have exceptional longevity with an
operational lifetime of up to 40 years,
and both aluminium and timber are also
recyclable, improving sustainability.

The recommended
distance between
units in a galley
kitchen is 1m to
1.5m. While a
distance of 1m to
1.2m will provide
adequate space to
open cupboards
and drawers fully, a
distance of 1.2m to
1.5m is the optimum,
particularly if
the kitchen will
be frequently
used by more
than one person
simultaneously.
ASHLEIGH HANWELL is
a senior designer at
Second Nature

NATASHA BRINSMEAD, ASSOCIATE EDITOR

homebuilding.co.uk 145

IMAGES: (BOTTOM) GETTY IMAGES; (TOP) SAUN

JARGON
BUSTER

WHAT IS A WANEY EDGE?
Also known as a ‘live edge’,
this is the natural raw edge
of a piece of timber that is left
exposed — sometimes even
with the bark still intact. It’s often
seen in exterior cladding where
horizontal planks overlap
each other. However, it can
also be used to create bespoke
rustic-style wood surfaces, such
as shelves or worktops where
planks can be bookmatched to
create symmetry along each
piece. Every surface is unique
and the beauty of the wood
really stands out. Ideal species
for this include elm, oak and
pippy poplar.

What is the drying time for plaster?

A

plastering job can take between one
to three days from start to finish and
you will need to factor in drying times
as you can’t paint plaster while it is still damp.
Understanding the setting times of different
types of plaster is crucial for a successful job.
Base filler is used for filling cracks and small
holes and takes up to two hours to dry. One
coat of patching plaster will dry in three to
four hours. Board finish plaster is used as a
top coat for plasterboard and dries in just one
and a half hours. Multi-finish, dry-coat and
tough-coat also takes the same time to set.
Base or undercoat plasters are applied
to block or brickwork to prepare walls
and ceilings ready for the final, smooth
coat. These kinds of plasters include
hardwall plaster, browning plaster and

bonding plaster, all of which dry within
two hours or thereabouts.
Generally, it takes three to five days for
plaster to dry completely. But factors such
as the number of coats, the thickness of the
plaster and environmental conditions can
extend this up to four weeks. If you want a
flawless finish, it is important to be patient
and allow the plaster to dry thoroughly as this
reduces the risk of issues, such as damp and
cracks. People are often keen to find ways
to reduce plaster drying times in order to get
started on the decorating, but it is generally
best to let plaster dry out naturally as rushing
the process with dehumidifiers or heaters can
do more harm than good and, in some cases,
lead to potential structural issues.
ALFIE BURROWS, DIRECTOR OF AB DRYLINING

Phil Messenger, founder of
Messenger Bespoke

IMAGES: (LEFT TO RIGHT) GETTY IMAGES; ECODECK; GETTY IMAGES

W H AT ’ S O N w w w. h o m e b u i l d i n g . c o . u k

How to use a circular saw
From safety advice to choosing the right
type of blade, you can find tips, tricks and
techniques to help you get the most out of
the power tool that all serious DIYers should
have in their collection.

146 homebuilding.co.uk

Discover decking alternatives
Are you looking to create an outside dining
or seating area? There’s other types of
decking as well as the more traditional wood
boards, so learn more about what the best
surface is for your outdoor space.

15 decorating mistakes to avoid
Follow our expert guide to getting a
professional finish on your next project,
including why you should steer clear of
cheap paintbrushes and how to prevent
lumpy wallpaper paste.

A S K

What is the Coefficient of
Performance of a heat pump?

IMAGE: QUIET MARK

T

he Coefficient of Performance
(CoP) is a standard
calculation used within the
industry to assess how well a
heat pump is working. In short,
the heat pump should produce
more heat than the energy it
consumes to generate the heat.
In mathematical terms, the CoP
is calculated by dividing the heat
energy output by the input energy.
The resulting number is the CoP
rating. For example, if for every
one kW unit of electricity used
you achieve 4kW units of heat,
then your heat pump has a CoP
rating of 4, or a 400% CoP. The
CoP should never be lower than
1. This would mean that a lot of
energy is lost in the system and,
as such, running a direct electric
system would be better. The higher
the CoP number, the more efficient
your heat pump is. To get the best
rating, manufacturers prefer to
take readings inside the heat pump
itself so that any system losses such
as heat loss in the pipework, pump
energy and standing losses are not
included in the calculation.
When you buy a heat pump,
it’s also important to remember
they will have obtained the initial
rating under test conditions,
meaning what you actually
achieve may change. So
it’s something you’ll need to
constantly monitor to get the best
results from your heat pump.
While there are many apps
to monitor efficiency of the

heat pump, the best and most
realistic figures achieved are
in monitoring the whole system
— including the distribution
pipework. A Monitoring and
Metering service package
(MMSP) can be installed in the
system to measure the actual
heat delivered and electricity
used. Constantly monitoring and
tracking the data gives you a
real view of when the system is
using the most energy and means
you can tweak it to optimise
future efficiency.

T H E

E X P E R T S

change the flow temperature
according to the ambient
temperature outside. It should
only get hotter as the weather
outside gets colder. This is known
as weather compensation.
Radiator size and central
heating bore pipes Other
details that can have an impact
on efficiency, are the requirement
for larger radiators (if radiators
are being used), larger bore
pipes in the central heating
system and also the need to
rebalance the central heating
system to operate with an optimal
temperature difference of around
5˚C–7˚C between the flow
and return temperatures. As an
example, if the water going from
the heat pump to the radiators or
underfloor heating is 40˚C then
the water coming back from the
radiators to the heat pump should
be no cooler than 33˚C.
Although a CoP gives you a
performance rating, according
to the Energy Saving Trust, a
CoP alone won’t provide the
most accurate figure. Instead,
you need what is known as
the Seasonal Coefficient of
Performance, or Seasonal

“There are many apps to monitor efficiency
of the system, but the most realistic figures are
achieved in monitoring the whole system”
A number of things influence
the CoP of a heat pump:
Lower outside ambient
temperature The higher the
flow temperature is, the lower the
efficiency. This is the same for
all heat pumps, even if they are
referred to as high temperature
units. Rest assured that it’s
normal to expect the CoP to
fall during colder months as the
outside temperature of the air or
water coming into the pump will
naturally be lower and require
more energy to heat. To minimise
this, your heat pump needs to
be carefully commissioned to

Performance Factor (SPF), as this
gives the efficiency averaged
across the whole year. Heat
pump installers will calculate
the SPF based on the system
they design for your home and
this should take into account the
average temperatures where you
live and the size of any radiators.
If you are about to embark on
a heat pump installation ensure
they share this figure with you
before they start as it will give a
much better indication — not just
of the efficiency, but also running
costs and potential cost savings.
DAVID HILTON, RENEWABLES EXPERT

homebuilding.co.uk 147

G R E E N

C L I N I C

WHAT SHOULD
I KNOW ABOUT
PASSIVHAUS
VENTILATION?
Heat and energy expert David Hilton
explains the benefits, options and costs
of this ultimate heating standard

DAVID
HILTON

Is an expert in
energy efficiency
and director of
Heat & Energy Ltd.

P

assivhaus is a very highperformance energy
efficiency standard for new
build properties and relies on a
number of key details to maintain
the high performance. It isn’t a
mandated standard, though it has
all but become the go-to standard
adopted by homebuilders looking
for the highest aspirational
performance standard in building.
Passivhaus is fairly agnostic of what

materials are used as long as they
meet the high performance levels
set by the Passivhaus Institute and
are installed in a controlled and
accountable manner by correctly
trained experienced contractors.
So here are some options and costs
of Passivhaus answered.

WHY IS PASSIVHAUS
VENTILATION NEEDED?
One of the most stringent

Passivhaus performance details is
the airtightness (draughtproofing).
All energy used, and heat created,
from everyday living activities
such as cooking, washing, lighting,
electronic appliances and even our
own body heat, is recycled to meet
the heat loss of the property and
lower the amount of primary heat
that we need to supply through a
central heating system.
Clearly, pumping heat out of the
building in stale or polluted air is
not efficient. So the heat needs to
be extracted from the stale air and
retained in the home before it exits
the building.

IMAGE: FUTURE

HOW MUCH HEALTHY
AIR IS NEEDED?

Right Built to
meet Passivhaus
standards,
this eco home
in Cheshire
includes an
MVHR system
with solar PV and
an air source
heat pump

The amount of air required for the
healthy habitation of occupants
in the building is carefully
defined and regulated by both the
Passivhaus standards and Part F
of Building Regulations. There
are many details to consider but
effectively you need a minimum
continuous airflow of 13 litres
per second extracted from the
kitchen and 8 litres per second
from wetrooms, such as shower
rooms and bathrooms. A WC needs

homebuilding.co.uk 149

an extract rate of at least 6 litres
per second and all the extract air
needs to be balanced with supply
air to habitable rooms, such as
bedrooms and sitting areas. The
home must also meet a minimum
of 0.3 litres per second per square
metre of floor area. This Building
Regulations requirement
can sometimes conflict with
Passivhaus standards depending
on the number of wetrooms and
floor area of the home.

WHAT PASSIVHAUS
VENTILATION OPTIONS
ARE THERE?

approved by Passivhaus. If a
non-approved MVHR system
is used then penalty points are
applied to the calculations in
the Passivhaus design software.
The MVHR system must also
be installed by an experienced
Passivhaus ventilation installer
using approved installation
methods with the full installation
documented and photographed
plus a full commissioning
document produced with

Above The
owners of this
new build say
their MVHR
system constantly
filters the air
in the house
to ensure a
pleasant home
environment

“One of the most stringent
performance details is
airtightness (draughtproofing)”

THE KEY PRINCIPLES OF
PASSIVHAUS DESIGN
Passivhaus can be built using almost any kind of construction. However, there are some universal
features, including:
● Low heating demand: Space heating demand of less than 15kWh/m²/yr. This means a
Passivhaus uses 90% less energy than it takes to heat than an average home, and 75% less than the
average new build.
● High levels of insulation: Exterior walls to achieve a U value of less than 0.15, and insulation is
designed to minimise thermal bridging.
● High-performance windows: U values less than 0.8.
● Airtightness: Less than 0.6 air changes/hour at 50Pa (Pascal). This is 20 times more airtight than
a standard build.
● Ventilation: Over 80% heat recovery from ventilation exhaust air. Mechanical ventilation with
heat recovery (MVHR) provides constant fresh air and retain heat inside the house.
● Optimised solar gain: The house retains heat from sun and occupants’ activities.

150 homebuilding.co.uk

calibrated airflows to and from
each room valve.

WHAT DOES
PASSIVHAUS
VENTILATION COST?

Due to the fact that Passivhaus
MVHR systems are tested and
approved by the Passivhaus
Institute, there will inevitably
be a premium on the cost of the
machines and materials to account
for the testing and approval costs.
Expect to pay around £2,500+
for a small home (circa 120m2)
fan unit, £3,500+ for a medium
home (200m2) fan unit and around
£4,500+ for a larger home (280m2)
fan unit. Compare this with the
cost of non-Passivhaus MVHR
systems, which start at around
half that price. The ductwork is
not approved itself but must be
installed in an approved manner
so although the materials may
be a similar cost for both systems
the installation process will be
significantly more costly.
The materials for the ducting
start at around the same cost as
the fan unit (but for better quality,
expect to pay more) with the
installation also starting at £3,500
and more for larger properties
— you can double this cost for
Passivhaus. Many installers will
also not drill through structural
elements so careful planning and
coordination is required.

IMAGE: JULIET MURPHY

Although not absolutely
stipulated it is widely accepted
that a continuous Mechanical
Ventilation Heat Recovery
(MVHR) system is required to
meet Passivhaus standards and is
the approved ventilation strategy
to meet the standard. An MVHR
ventilation system continuously
extracts air from wetroom areas
and delivers fresh air to living
areas. As the stale air is extracted
it passes through a heat exchanger
where heat is transferred from the
stale outgoing air and delivered to
the fresh incoming air. It is quite
reasonable to expect around 90%
of the heat to be recovered and
retained in these types of homes.
For a full Passivhaus
certification, the MVHR fan
unit and ducting need to be

UTILISE THE DARKNESS

This design by Langlea perfectly demonstrates how light and dark play
together. “Avoid putting in too much lighting so the garden doesn’t end up
looking like a theme park,” says Francesa Sideris of Langlea Garden Design
and Construction. “Break down the lighting of your garden into key elements
— paths, steps, sculpture, trees, walls, water and features,” says Luke Thomas
of John Cullen Lighting. Do not be afraid of darkness as this plays an important
part in a well-lit garden. Understanding the balance of light and shadow is a
magical component in all lighting design.
“Select key focal points to be lit — ideally choose features that look good
whatever the season,” says Luke. “Sometimes these features can be surrounded
by darkness and in other situations, light linking elements are used. These focal
points could be sculptures, pavilions or trees. Evergreen trees are best for yearround focus, but some deciduous varieties can look pleasingly sculptural, even
after they have shed their leaves in winter.”

M O O D B O A R D

Experts share how to inject a
healthy glow to your garden
when the sun goes down
see our gardens as a vital component of our home, rather
than just a nice add-on.
Therefore, anything that facilitates greater usability is seen
as a crucial element of garden design. As any landscape designer
will tell you, when used correctly, lights can transform how you
use your space as well as adding a new dimension to your outdoor
design elements.
The beauty of it being that the range of products available
makes it easy for us to incorporate light, but doing it in a way
that gives the best results requires a little help from the experts.
For instance, how much light do we need, where we should be
using it and what are the key practical considerations for
a healthy garden glow?

WORDS: TERESA CONWAY

A

garden without lighting is one that shuts off to the
world when the sun goes down, only to return into
our consciousness when the following day starts
anew. Add light to the mix and you give your garden
two lives. Its daytime state, full of colour and life,
and its dark alter-ego — a rich milieu of lively shadows and
exciting possibilities.
Lighting is a key ingredient for unlocking even more time
that can be spent outdoors and increased usability enhances
the appeal and value of our homes. Though we might not have
the consistent weather of the continent, the emergence of the
‘fifth room’ concept around the lockdown era – when greater
importance was placed on our outdoor living areas – we began to

IMAGE: (TOP) JOANNA KOSSAK

KNOW THE
REQUIREMENTS

“Carefully consider the
placement of your lighting as this
will determine the design as well
as the IP rating you will require,”
advises Jo Plant, Head of Design
at Pooky.
“Exposed walls are better
suited to sturdy wall lights, but
for a more decorative feel on a
patio or under a pergola, we
recommend using lanterns,
which will help create the perfect
atmosphere. You should use IP44
damp-rated fixtures for sheltered
spaces. For the more exposed
areas where there could be
direct or indirect contact with
rain, you will need to use IP65
wet-rated fixtures.”
“Apart from functionality,
aesthetic is key, opt for materials
that are not only robust, but eyecatching, too. Brass and chrome
always age well outside and
on a bright day, they beautifully
catch the sun,” says Jo.
This Brooklyn Outdoor &
Bathroom Dome Pendant
features an exquisite on-trend
brass finish that would look just
as equally smart outside your
home as it would indoors —
£169 at Industville.

OPT FOR A LESS-ISMORE APPROACH

“The addition of light to any garden creates
a magical extra room at night and adds a
wonderful new perspective as dusk falls,
whether summer or winter,” says Luke.
But a little goes a long way and it’s
important to remember, the purpose of night
lighting is not to recreate day. “Less is often
more when it comes to garden lighting,”
explains Francesca Sideris of Langlea
Garden Design and Construction.
“Establish the right balance between
making the garden practical and usable for
your family in the evenings, with a relaxing
ambience. If you flood your garden with too
much light, you run the risk of it looking it
looking too loud and ostentatious,” she says.
In this sleek space by Langlea, a monolithic
zinc wall provides a stylish backdrop to the
lighting around the terraced seating area,
highlighting a key architectural feature.

M O O D B O A R D

CONSIDER BUILT-IN LIGHTING

Built-in lighting can offer a sleek and seamless look,
particularly for outdoor spaces like decks, patios, or steps.
However, they will require planning and complex installation
compared to standalone light fittings. Built-in lights may
be a good option for small gardens as they are generally
unobtrusive and integrate into existing features without
stealing away valuable space. This Guida light by John
Cullen Lighting is an exterior in-ground LED indicator light that
produces a low glare across the ground for a subtle effect.

CHOOSE SPOTLIGHTS
FOR PLANT BEDS

“Create a wash of light to the surrounding
planting to show off the colours and flowers
when it gets dark,” says Luke. “This is best
achieved with a selection of spiked LED lights
which can be repositioned as the planting
grows. Consider products such as the Kew
spotlights for taller more structured planting or
Hampton floodlights for a wash of light for the
front of flower beds or paths.”

homebuilding.co.uk 155

HAVE LIGHTS ON DIFFERENT CIRCUITS

You wouldn’t have all your lights come on and off with the flick of a single switch
in your home, so there’s no reason to do this outdoors, either. “Create different
circuits so you can tailor your scenes to the lifestyle and extend the viewpoint
with a pleasingly lit seating or socialising area,” says Luke. “To maximise the
elegant garden outdoor living space, use a sophisticated control system with
scene setting to balance outdoor and indoor lighting levels.”
“Consider combining several types of lighting to create a layered look that
addresses all the functions you need and also the atmosphere or mood you
want to set,” says Francesca Sideris. The colour-changing strip in this design by
Langlea is intended to draw the eye as well as highlight the paving.

156 homebuilding.co.uk

M O O D B O A R D

CHOOSE LEDS FOR DECKING

“For decking, consider low-voltage LED deck lights or recessed deck lighting for a subtle and stylish
illumination,” suggests David Haslehurst of Moonlight Design. “These can be installed flush with the
surface or mounted on posts or railings to provide safety and ambience.”
The other benefit of LED lights is that they can be very small, which is ideal for installing into decking.
In addition to this, Francesca recommends LED strip lighting for under the overhang of a raised deck,
which looks striking and sleek. Try the Lucca steplight range from John Cullen Lighting.

CONSIDER FUNCTION

Design your garden lighting
to meet both your functional
needs and achieve your desired
aesthetic,” says Francesca
Sideris. “You can highlight
pathways or even driveways to
aid navigation. Lights that shine
across the path or driveway or
that are set in at regular intervals
are attractive options.”
David Haslehurst explains
that practical considerations
for outdoor lighting include
energy efficiency, durability,
weather resistance and ease of
installation and maintenance.
“LED lights are one of the
most popular choices for outdoor
use due to their energy efficiency
and long lifespan,” he says.
“Additionally, be sure to check
that any electrical fixtures are
rated for outdoor use.”
In this scheme by Moonlight
Design, lights highlight walkways
and stairs, as well as creating a
sense of ambience.

homebuilding.co.uk 157

M O O D B O A R D

GET THE LEVELS RIGHT

“Choosing light levels is a tricky task because it all depends on
what you want the light to do and what you are lighting,” says
David Haslehurst. “For instance, if you need lighting purely for
security reasons then you would need a high-powered floodlight
with approximately 2,000 lumens. However, if you wanted to
illuminate a small ornamental tree, like an Acer, you may want

a spike light that produces 400 lumens. Therefore, it is about
choosing the right fitting for the job.”
Francesca Sideris adds that you should avoid overly bright
lights that can create harsh glows. In this example, the team at
Langlea used warm lights to work with the central gold vista line
detail, giving an ethereal glow to the space.

EXPLORE CONVENIENT
TECH SOLUTIONS

Lighting tech goes beyond motionactivated sensors and timers.
“It’s quite common now to have
your lighting scheme linked to your
phone via an app, so even if you
are sitting inside and admiring
the garden through your doors
or windows you should be able
to set the mood you want,” says
Francesca Sideris.
This scheme, created by
Langlea Garden Design and
Construction showcases how
garden lighting can add ambience
when viewing the garden from
inside the home. “Some lighting
options come with remotes that are
particularly handy for deck lighting
or lighting features at the far end
of the garden,” says Matthew
Currington, technical director,
The Lighting Superstore.

homebuilding.co.uk 159

M O O D B O A R D

DIFFERENT TYPES OF
OUTDOOR LIGHTING

Ambient lighting Includes illumination
of outdoor areas for visibility, such as a
patio terrace leading out from the house.
Soft and diffused effect, as with wall lights.
Task lighting Meant for specific tasks in
the garden, such as pathway lights that aid
navigation, or spotlights over a cooking
area. Brighter lighting that is focused on
where the activities occur.
Accent lighting To highlight specific
features of the garden.
Decorative lighting
Useful just for adding a
cosy atmosphere and a
decorative touch, such as
hanging festoon lights over
a seating area or rope
lighting wrapping around
tree trunks.
FRANCESCA SIDERIS
DESIGN & OFFICE
DIRECTOR, LANGLEA

DON’T OVER-LIGHT A DRIVEWAY

“The key with lighting driveways and exterior lighting in general, is
not to over-light,” says Luke Thomas. “In a drive, if it’s dark, you tend
to have the car headlights on, which help you navigate your way.
The danger with too much light along a driveway is that it can look a
bit like a runway.
“As this design (below) by John Cullen Lighting shows, it’s very
effective to use lighting to define the edges by lighting soft planting,
or illuminating nearby trees so there is a certain level of ambient light.
The absence of direct light helps to guide you through the space and
draws attention to more desirable features. Where lighting directly
onto the driveway is necessary, this could be done using a spike light,
or a bollard-style fitting.”

BE MINDFUL OF LIGHT POLLUTION

“It’s important to consider the wildlife around
where you live, and how it may be affected by
lighting,” says David Haslehurst. “If you live in
a city, there may not be too much of an issue in
using high-powered lighting. However, if you
are in suburbs or country, then you should be
careful not to over-illuminate the area due to the
risk of disturbing bats, moths etc.
Garden designer Kristina Clode urges
avoidance of having lights on timers that
automatically light up every night. Instead,
switch them on and off when needed. If you have
motion-activated lights for security, be sure to
angle the beam downwards, as they have the
potential to be a bit of a pest.
As in the above example, Langlea have used
fixtures that direct light downward. “Aim to
minimise light pollution and prevent glare in
anyone’s eyes,” says Francesca Sideris.

homebuilding.co.uk 161

ECO
LANDSCAPING

Creating a garden with green credentials
isn’t without its challenges, but there are
plenty of ways you can reduce its impact
on the environment, once you know how

W
TERESA
CONWAY

IMAGES: KRISTINA CLODE; ABBY REX; RHS/ NEIL HEPWORTH

Deputy Editor
Teresa has
extensive
experience
writing about
gardens and
landscaping and
twice served
as a judge on
the Society
of Garden
Designers
Awards panel.

162 homebuilding.co.uk

hat’s clear when it
comes to landscaping
in an environmental
sense, is that there’s no one-sizefits-all approach. Landscape
designer Kristina Clode, whose
multiple garden designs have won
awards in sustainability, admits
that the sustainable thing to do is
nothing. This inevitably presents
a bit of a conundrum.
There are things that can be
done to lessen our impact on the
environment as much as possible,
however. The most powerful tool
and the starting point for anyone
on a landscaping project is intent.
“Allow sustainability to be the
driver for your decision-making
right from the very beginning,” says
Sam Avard, who is certified Carbon
Literate by the Carbon Literacy
Project, and works alongside
Kristina at Kristina Clode Garden
Design on technical design and
specification. “Studies have shown
that the impact on sustainability
in a project peaks at the design
phase. The further you move
through the process the lesser your
chances of your end product being
a sustainable one,” he explains.
“The first step is understanding

what the motivations are for doing
things in an environmentally
friendly way,” adds Sam. “Look at
carbon cycles, our water use, how
fast soil is degrading — all that
depressing stuff that people don’t
really want to think about when
they’re having fun. Take the time

to learn the importance of these
decisions to be green.”
It’s perhaps important to
mention that sustainable gardens
will have a certain aesthetic about
them and Sam tells us that as a
rule of thumb, creating pristine
low-maintenance landscapes is

H O W

not going to be very sustainable.
“Embrace the messier side of
things. A thriving and sustainable
garden is one that’s changing all
the time, if that’s happening it’s a
good indication that you’re doing
something right,” he says. “Try and
be part of the conversation with
nature and that is about change,
all of the time.”
Look at everything you have as
an existing resource, rather than
something that is in the way of your
build, water being one, the soil you
have on-site being another.

LIMIT HARD
LANDSCAPING

“When it comes to sustainability
and hard landscaping there are
two schools of thought,” says Sam.
“First, there’s choosing to go down
the low-impact path by using
reclaimed or secondhand materials
or existing materials from the site.
The other option is to ensure your
structures comply with British
standards and are built to last as
long as possible before they will
need replacing.”
Sam leans towards a low-impact
approach. “Building something
that’s going to last 30 years may be
unnecessary if you think you may

not be in that property for that long,
and someone else may come in and
replace the materials to something
of their taste.”
Therefore it’s important to think
of the whole life cycle of all the
materials that come in and out of
the garden. Examples of limiting
your materials include using
an existing base in the garden,
instead of laying a new one. Use as
little cement as possible — none,
if possible. “If you decide to lay a
patio consider self-binding gravel,”
says Kristina. “Don’t be tempted
to lay a membrane down as this is
terrible for soil health and wildlife.
Regular mulching should do the
trick and suppress weeds.”
“Any time that you’re using
timber, make sure that you choose
something that’s sustainably
sourced,” says Sam. “Local coppice
material like chestnut is probably
the gold standard.”
For any and all materials you
buy in, try and source them as
locally as possible as this saves on
transportation mileage, and check
that they are sustainably sourced.
Better still, look for secondhand
and reclaimed materials, where
possible. There are recent
examples of garden designers who
have created completely cementfree gardens. John Warland and
Emma O’Connell in their 2024
RHS Chelsea garden had zero
cement use and zero landfill, they
used ‘Geo-Grow’ bags in place of
concrete block construction as
well as structural organic willow,
all harvested within the UK.
Remember the least amount of
materials possible is always the
best approach, so try giving your
garden over to mainly planting and
leave topsoil undisturbed.

G R E E N

Above In
Kristina Clode’s
award-winning
design, every
single thing in
the garden had
sustainability
in mind from
rainwater
harvesting down
to composting
Below Gabions
can be filled with
waste material
from a build and
used as a garden
feature
Left John
Warland
& Emma
O’Connell’s
Freedom from
Torture Garden
which was
entered in
the 2024
RHS Chelsea
Flower Show

I S

Y O U R

H O M E ?

SAVE MATERIALS
FROM YOUR BUILD

Sam advises keeping hold of
anything dense such as clean
masonry materials like concrete,
brick and tile that you can crush up
to the consistency of a regular subbase to use under a patio. It’s waste
material that doesn’t have to be
taken off-site only for new material
to come back in again. This not
only saves on the amount of new
material but also takes mileage for
transportation off your project.
Kristina also mentions gabions,
a material sometimes used in
homebuilding, which can be
filled with rubble or other waste
materials from your build to
become design features in your
garden. The tops can even be filled
with soil and used for planting.
They’re a good alternative to
timber raised beds, which may be
sourced from ancient woodland, or
treated with harsh chemicals.

THINK ABOUT
DRAINAGE

“There are ways to capture
rainwater runoff, and rather than
have it going into a soakaway or
drain, design it so that it can enter
into a rain garden or bog garden,”
says Kristina. “This would need
to be considered right at the
beginning of your design and be
discussed with your architect so
you can decide on exit points for
the water and where you want it
to eventually end up.” A garden
designer will be able to advise you
on plant choices that will cope with

homebuilding.co.uk 163

H O W

G R E E N

I S

Y O U R

H O M E ?

TOP TIP

IMAGES: KRISTINA CLODE; RHS/NEIL HEPWORTH

“Getting rid of topsoil is
something that you should
avoid at all costs, so make
sure you protect it during any
building work.”
Sam Avard,
co-director
at Kristina
Clode
Garden
Design

periods of dry and heavy rain when
they might be fully submerged
under water.
“Another option is to use gravel
surfaces without the membrane, or
permeable grout between pavers so
water can drain through,” explains
Kristina. Take inspiration from
Tom Massey and Je Ahn’s garden
at the 2024 RHS Chelsea Flower
Show, which is an example of a
100% permeable garden. Every
surface was permeable, including
open metal decking, as well as
there being a rainwater-harvesting
pavilion. The garden was planted
with species designed to deal with
varying amounts of rainfall.

PROTECT YOUR SOIL
AT ALL COSTS

“Soil is something that is very easy
to mistreat and mishandle during

“Consider soil carbon capture.
The more you dig soil, the
more carbon is released”
a build. You want to avoid your
contractor coming in and stripping
out your topsoil, or running heavy
machinery over it without
de-compacting it,” says Sam. “Most
topsoil you buy is manufactured
from material from our green
waste bins, which is good as it is
technically a recycled material, but
it doesn’t have any of the fungus
or nutrients in authentic topsoil,
which takes time to accumulate.”
“You must also consider the
carbon capture element of soil.
This means the more you dig
up soil the more carbon you’re
releasing, so try and minimise

Top Kristina
Clode’s awardwinning garden
design
Above
WaterAid
Garden
designed by Tom
Massey and Je
Ahn for the 2024
RHS Chelsea
Flower Show

the disturbance of soil as much as
possible,” adds Kristina. “Topsoil
takes a lot of time to build up and
is a living organism that we’re only
just starting to understand. Try and
treat it as a precious commodity
during a renovation as well as a
garden design.”
“If you do have to dig up the soil,
for example, if it’s unworkable clay,
think about other places on site
that you could put this material
to use, in level changes, say,” says
Sam. This inevitably reduces your
carbon footprint but also saves the
cost of buying materials in new
where they may already exist in
some form. “Some people will tell
you that it’s possible to condition
heavy clay soil, but this is a bit of
a myth, the volume of grit that
you have to mix through clay soil
to make any sort of difference is
huge,” says Sam.
It’s more sustainable therefore
to build on top of clay soil. “A
rockery, for example, works well
over clay soil, with free draining
matter on top, as it helps with water
retention for your moisture-loving
plants,” says Kristina.

MAKE SENSIBLE
PLANT CHOICES

“When I’m designing I try to create
a habitat. Having year-round
interest is good for wildlife,” says
Kristina. Rather than having one
wow moment, have things that
flower at different times of the year.
Variety is important — you’re more
likely to have plants that survive

homebuilding.co.uk 165

H O W

non-native is a good way to hedge
our bets that there will be some
survivors and some that fall victim
to climate change, because at the
moment it’s impossible to tell
exactly what changes are coming.
Trying lots of different plant
species also helps guard against
growing one type of plant that
might end up becoming invasive.

I S

Y O U R

H O M E ?

TOP TIP
“If you have a plant that
fails, then try to think about
why it’s failed and don’t just
automatically replace it with
the exact same plant.”
Kristina Clode,
garden
designer
and owner
of Kristina
Clode
Garden
Design

CULTIVATE YOUTH

In addition, Kristina advises we
plant young trees rather than
mature varieties from a nursery,
which will have had a lot of
resources to grow them to that size.
A smaller tree will also be healthier
for having established itself in that
position in your garden. You’re also
not adding to the tree population
just by moving a tree from one place
to another. Growing a tree from

Left Kristina
aims to create
a habitat in the
gardens she
designs
Below Plant a
diverse selection
of native and non
native trees

seed or a sapling you are. “Plants
grown from seed are generally
more sustainable, but of course,
this isn’t a realistic possibility for
everyone, so instead try and buy
bare root plants, when possible,
to reduce plastic and the time and
resource spent growing the plants
in pots before they eventually
reach your garden,” says Kristina.
“In your plant scheme aim to
have an upper canopy of trees,
shrubs at mid-height and ground
cover plants as an under-storey
for wildlife. Then there are the
ephemeral elements like bulbs,
annuals and biennials, which fade
and come back and take up seed
elsewhere in the garden. Keeping
the garden full of plants, and the
soil covered as much as possible, is
good for the soil, good for insects
and good for us because it’s more
interesting,” says Kristina.

IMAGES: KRISTINA CLODE

if you hedge your bets with lots of
different native as well as nonnative species.”
The advice to try non-native
species might surprise some
people, but with climate change
you’ll find that some native species
like birch, can’t survive the higher
summer temperatures. We’re
also seeing ash dieback becoming
more prevalent.
“If climate change continues on
the trajectory it is on, perhaps we
need to look more at near-native
plants, such as those grown in
southern France,” says Kristina.
“This is particularly important
with trees as they can take 50 to
100 years to grow. If we plant all
native trees now and find that they
are wiped out by disease in a few
decades then what will be left?”
Planting a mix of native and

G R E E N

PART 13

PRE-CONSTRUCTION GUIDE

Make sure that your insurance, health and safety, build and cost
schedules and all documents are all in place before kick-off

T

he secret of a well-run build is starting on
the right foot. So the pre-start phase of a
building project is the most important —
it’s where successful builds are born. But
due to either inexperience or impatience,
lots of self-builders start too early and with half-baked
plans, their builds soon become derailed. Fortunately,
with a bit of good planning and little hard work, this is
avoidable by making sure you have the key pre-start
tasks under control.

Whether you like it or not, money makes the wheels of
self-building turn and if you don’t have enough, your
build will eventually grind to a halt. It’s not unusual for
projects to take a couple of years to get off the ground
and what might first have seemed to be a healthy
budget could become a challenge once inflation has
been factored in. So the first step in the pre-start phase
is to validate the build costs and make sure your budget
is deliverable.
The best course of action is to tie down a project
specification and source quotations from contractors
and suppliers for all the key areas of work. Sounds
easy, but with almost limitless choice, it’s easy to go
overboard by incorporating the latest fads. Do your
research and differentiate the nice-to-haves from the
must-haves so you know where to compromise if costs
come in higher than expected. If you’ve not yet visited
one of the Homebuilding & Renovating shows, now’s
the time as you’ll find all the latest technologies on

168 homebuilding.co.uk

WORDS: MARK STEVENSON IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

FINALISE THE BUILD BUDGET

E X P E R T

HOW TO CLOSE THE FINANCIAL GAP

● Reduce the building scale — subject to planning consent
● Eliminate complexity and use tried-and-trusted build methods
with easily predictable costs
● Review the project specification and calculate how to
compromise on the not so essential ‘big ticket’ items
● Use professionals to ‘value engineer’ the proposals — there’s
often a cheaper way to achieve the same look
● Choose a more affordable route to build — a turnkey solution
might seem attractive, but convenience often costs more
● Avoid professionals that bill as a percentage of build costs;
their inclination might be to spend more to increase their fees.

display along with the expert advice needed to know
what to do with it. You can register for your tickets at:
www.homebuildingshow.co.uk.
Build budgets should include everything you’ll need
to complete your project – from foundations to timber
frame packages – as well as the finishings and the costs
associated with running a site. For a typical build
budget, over half of the cost will be spent building the
superstructure. The rest is associated with the fit out,
which is made up of many small pieces of the pie.
While the small stuff is important, it’s best to focus
on the ‘big ticket’ items that offer the biggest bang
for your buck.
Once you know the build cost, make sure it’s
affordable. Perversely, the people who get in trouble
here are cash-rich self-builders who don’t require a
mortgage and who, without the scrutiny of a broker,
could be lulled into a false sense of security. It’s
important to remember that budgeting is an iterative
process that never stops. While the first step might be
to ‘balance the budget’, expenditure should always be
closely monitored, and if costs creep, take action to
pull things back on track.

ARRANGE THE PROJECT FINANCE

Speaking from experience, arranging self-build
finance is a tortuous task — the process is complex,
lenders’ rules are bureaucratic and the scrutiny, at
times, can feel downright uncomfortable. As with such
things, the tendency is to get it sorted and then avoid
opening the can of worms all over again, but when it
comes to finance, this is the worst thing you can do.
To make sure contractors and suppliers are paid on
time, you must understand what needs to be paid and
when. Once this is understood, you’ll then need to
make sure the cash is available. If your build is funded
with a mortgage, read the mortgage offer carefully and
understand the rules of drawing down funds as getting
hold of the money might take longer than expected.

FOLLOW A BUILD PROGRAMME

The only way to guarantee your build starts on time
is to have a plan and follow it. Most self-builders
appreciate the virtues of a construction programme,
but in terms of the pre-start phase, the pre-start

A D V I C E

programme is even more important. In its simplest
form, a pre-start programme is no more than a big ‘to
do’ list, setting out the essential tasks and when they
need doing. A good pre-start programme considers
the key tasks and the timing of procurement to make
sure long lead in materials, such as timber frames and
windows, turn up on time. Having a grip on this helps
to set the optimum start date and avoids delays by
ensuring everything is available when you need it.

CONSTRUCTION DESIGN AND
MANAGEMENT REGULATIONS (CDM)
The CDM regulations (applicable to all self-build
projects since 2015) require all construction projects
that employ people to operate safely. The CDM regs
are intended to ensure health and safety is properly
considered so the risk of harm to those involved is
managed. Compliance with CDM is a responsibility of
the duty holders and starts well before building begins
by considering the best way to design its construction
so it can be built safely.
Most self-builders choose to employ a professional
to manage their builds and are therefore defined as a

“The only way to guarantee your
build starts on time is to have a build
programme plan and follow it”
‘domestic client’ under the legislation. CDM defines
domestic clients as, “people who have construction
work carried out on their own home that is not done
as part of a business”. Domestic clients have very few
legal responsibilities under CDM and must simply
appoint a principal designer and a principal contractor
when there is more than one contractor. Bizarrely,
if you don’t do this, your duties as a domestic client
are automatically transferred to the contractor or
principal contractor which means you don’t actually
have to do anything. If you already have a relationship
with your designer before the work starts, the designer
can also take on your duties, provided there is a written
agreement between you and the designer to do so —
don’t hold your breath!

CDM AND SELF-MANAGING

Lots of self-builders choose to manage their own
projects and act as their own project manager,

WHEN’S THE BEST TIME TO START?

Unfortunately, there isn’t a standard answer as every project
has unique challenges and timescales that have to be factored
in before starting on site. For first time self-builders, the pre-start
process can be a bit overwhelming. But none of it is rocket
science and provided the construction team is consulted and a
logical approach is taken, the answer will become self-evident.

E X P E R T

employing individual trades at different times. From
a health and safety point of view, the self-managing
self-builder takes control of construction work and
must comply with all the matters outlined in Part 4 of
the regulations. The self-managing self-builder will
in effect become a contractor and the HSE will expect
them to demonstrate sufficient competence to meet
the requirements.
Fortunately, the HSE acknowledges that selfbuilders aren’t construction professionals and
therefore they’re entitled to expect contractors to
plan, manage and monitor their own work. What
this means is that if a contractor acts unsafely, the
HSE will hold them directly accountable. However,
before you wash your hands of any health and safety
responsibilities, there are a few things a self-managing
self builder should be aware of, as detailed below.

RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE SELFMANAGING SELF-BUILDER

IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

The expectation of a self-builder managing their own
project will be coordination and management, not
direct supervision of contractors on site. Individual
contractors are expected to take responsibility for
themselves and should be able to advise the selfbuilder on any specialist matters within their own
work activities. While contractors are responsible
for their own work, self-managing self-builders
are responsible for making sure the site is safe for
contractors to work safely. Duties the self-builder
must fulfil before construction work can begin are:
Informing the HSE of site commencement
Projects where construction work is likely to last
longer than 30 working days and have more than
20 workers working simultaneously at any point or
exceed 500 person days must be notified to the HSE
before construction begins. Qualifying projects should
submit a form before starting on site.
Producing a construction phase safety plan
The regulations require that before the construction

A D V I C E

DUTY HOLDERS UNDER CONSTRUCTION
DESIGN AND MANAGEMENT REGULATIONS
(CDM)
● Domestic client
Defined as an individual
who has construction work
carried out on their home
which is not done as part of
any business.
● Designer/principal
designer Any designer
who is in charge of
coordinating and managing
a project is the principal
designer. The building
designer usually fulfils this
role and coordinates the
design activities of the other
designers who are also
involved in the project.

● The contractor If the
project is built by a single
contractor, they assume
the role of contractor
under CDM Regs and are
responsible for health and
safety on the whole project.
● The principal contractor
For projects with more than
one contractor, the principal
contractor is the contractor
in control of the construction
work at any point in time.
The role of principal
contractor may change from
contractor to contractor as
the work progresses.

phase begins, a construction phase plan is drawn up.
While this is usually arranged by the contractor or
principal contractor, if you intend to manage your own
build you’ll need a construction phase plan. The Health
and Safety Executive provides lots of guidance on how
to do this and the Construction Industry Training
Board has produced an easy-to-use free app called the
CDM Wizard, which can help. The construction phase
plan records the project details and the arrangements
for managing health, safety and environmental issues
during the build. This includes how communication
will be managed and how significant health and safety
risks will be addressed.
The plan must include pre-construction information
about the site along with design information provided
by the project designers, such as drawings and any risk
assessments they have completed while designing
the project. The construction phase plan is a live
document and should be reviewed and updated
regularly as the build progresses. Everyone on the
project should also be aware of its contents and must
comply with its parameters.
Considering safe systems of work Selfmanaging self-builders are entitled to rely upon
the expertise of contractors who are employed to
undertake the building work. This means that a
self-managing self-builder need only make sure
contractors are aware of the construction phase
plan, are competent to do their job and intend to act
responsibly in dealing with health and safety. They
don’t need to approve risk assessments or method
statements as the contractors doing the work are
required to know how to work safely.
Ensure the site is safe and secure Site
inspections should be undertaken regularly and before
work begins and any hazards addressed. The working
area must also be safeguarded from unwanted visitors

homebuilding.co.uk 171

E X PE R T

A D V I C E

(especially children) who might injure themselves by
making unauthorised visits. The site boundaries must
therefore be secure and fenced off.
Arrange appropriate welfare facilities
A building site is a place of work and must provide
minimum standards of welfare. The HSE expects the
following to be provided:
● Clean and working toilets
● Basins with hot/cold water, soap and towels
● Somewhere to change, dry and store clothing
● Drinking water, and cups if needed; and a rest area
to sit, make hot drinks and eat food
● First aid and emergency arrangements and
emergency equipment, such as fire extinguishers
● The requirements can be met by hiring welfare units
that meet all the obligations of a small building site.

SITE INSURANCES

“Building sites have the potential for losses
and claims — insurance cover is essential
to make sure that you are covered”
such as legal cover etc. The policies are commonly
bought from the warranty provider and are often
packaged up with levels of cover to reflect the value and
risk of your project. As with other insurance policies,
they cover the build for a set period of time. Speaking
from experience, renewals are pricey so it’s best to add
a healthy contingency period to avoid the risk of them
expiring before the build is finished.
In addition to the insurance policies you may need,
contractors should also have their own cover so ask
for evidence of this before letting them start work. By
having a copy of their policies, if something happens
that gives rise to a claim, you can be confident that the
responsible contractor can deal with the matter. Some
lenders might ask for evidence that the appropriate
insurance cover is in place before releasing any funds.
It’s therefore best to get everything in place before they
ask and certainly before work starts on site.

10 KEY QUESTIONS TO ASK
BEFORE STARTING ON SITE

1
2
3

Does the build budget stack up — are the
figures realistic and affordable?
Is finance in place and are the payment
terms reflected in the cash flow?

Can the build be started before the
planning consent expires — have all the
pre-start planning conditions been resolved?

4

Has the Community Infrastructure Levy
exemption (CIL) been claimed and
confirmed?

5

Have any site issues such as
contamination or mains services
diversions been dealt with?

6

Have the construction drawings – at
least for the main stages of the build –
been completed?

7

Has the warranty provider been
appointed and have the full Building
Regulations approval plans been confirmed
by the inspector?

8
9

Are project insurances in place?

Has CDM been dealt with? Duty holders
appointed, notifications submitted and
a construction phase plan and welfare
arrangements put in place?

10

Is the construction team committed and
are the key materials available to keep
the build progressing as programmed?

IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

Building sites are risky places and with the potential
for losses and claims, insurance cover is essential to
make sure that you, your builders and your building
site is covered. Depending on how you intend to build,
a range of cover will be needed. The main ones include:
● Contractors all risk: cover for incidents such as fire,
theft, vandalism, flood and storm damage
● Employers’ liability: anybody ‘employed on site’ is
deemed an ‘employee’ for insurance purposes creating
a liability for any injury, loss or death while they are
working on your site
● Public liability: this covers liabilities for third parties
– such as the general public – for damage, injury or loss
that may be associated or caused by your building site.
If you’re managing your own project, then all three
levels of cover will be needed, plus a few minor ones,

homebuilding.co.uk 173

L

ocated alongside the winding
River Thames in a conservation
area in Marlow, Buckinghamshire,
Lowater is a distinctive home split
into three red brick pitched roof
formations. Working with Castellum
Construction, Fletcher Crane Architects
developed the design for the two-storey
house to form a relationship with an
adjacent church and neighbouring
historic property and to reflect the
surrounding architecture.
Entry to the house passes through

178 homebuilding.co.uk

H O M E S

a brick garden wall and covered,
colonnaded canopy, clad in zinc and
timber, with a lawned square courtyard
on one side and a rectangular reflecting
pool on the other.
A striking and perforated brick façade
characterises the main gable face and,
along with the interior lights and glazed
walls, creates interesting reflections
on the surface of the water. This large
section incorporates the open-plan
kitchen, living and dining room with
a skylit mezzanine study space above

and gable glazing at each end. While
the front façade features the decorative
brick detail, the rear is shielded by metal
louvres. As well as the entrance, the
central gable features a glass link with
views from the front directly through
to a long narrow pool in the rear garden
and the river beyond.
On the ground floor is a second private
living room with a main suite on the floor
above. On the other side of the entrance,
a single-storey section houses more
bedrooms and a garage.

WORDS: JO MESSENGER IMAGE: LORENZO ZANDRI

A M A Z I N G

9000

9001