The World Atlas of
8TH EDITION
Hugh Johnson & Jancis Robinson

The World Atlas of
8TH EDITION
Hugh Johnson & Jancis Robinson
MITCHELL BEAZLEY

An Hachette UK Company
www hachette.co.uk
This e d1t1on was first published 1n Great Britain
in 2019 by Mitche ll Beazley, an imprint of Octo pus
Publishing Grou p Ltd
Carmelite House
50 V1ctor 1a Embankment
London EC4Y ODZ
www octopusbooks co uk
www.octopusbooksusa com
Copyright© Octopus Publ1sh1ng Group Ltd 1971,
1977, 1985, 1994, 2001, 2007, 2013, 2019
Text copyright© Hugh Johnson 1971, 1977, 1985,
1994, Hugh Johnson, Janc1s Robinson 2001, 2007,
2013, 2019
D1str1buted in the US by Hachette Book Group,
1290 Avenue of the Americas, 4th and 5th Floors,
New York, NY 10020
D1str1buted 1n Canada by Canadian Manda Group,
664 Annette Street, Toronto, Ontario, M6S 2C8
All rights reserved No part of th1s work may be
reproduced or util ized 1n any form by any means,
electronic or mechanical, 1nclud1ng photocopying,
recording or by any 1nformat1on storage and
retrieval system, without the prior written
perm1ss1on of the publisher
Hugh Johnson and J anc1s Robinson have asserted
the moral right to be 1dent1fied as the authors of
this work
The publishers would be grateful for any relevant
information that will assist them 1n keeping future
ed1t1ons up to date Although all reasonable care
has been taken in the preparation of this book,
neither the publisher s nor the authors can accept
any liability for any consequence arising from the
use thereof, or the information conta ined therein
ISBN 978 1 78472 618 8
A CIP catalogue record for th is book 1s available
from the B r1t1sh Libra ry
Printed and bound in Singap0re
109876
Managing Edito r Gill Pitts
Assistant Editor Julia Harding MW
Ed1tor1al Assistants Katherine Lavender,
Kathryn Allen
Art Director Yas1a W1lliams-Leedham
Cover design concept Daniel Benneworth-Gray
Layout design con ce pt L1zz1e Ballantyne
Designers Ab1 Read, L1zz1e Ballantyne
New 1llustrat1ons for eighth ed1t1on Jessie Ford
Senior Produc ti on Manager Katherine Hockley
Cartographic Ed i tors Lynn Neal, Paul Hopgood
Ga7etteer Mike Adams
Index Gillian Northcott Liles
Proofreader Jamie Ambrose
Picture Re searc h Manager G1ul1a Hetherington
Picture Research Nick Wheldon
Rev1s1ons and new cartography for the eighth
ed1t1on Cosmograph1cs
Original c.; rtogr phy Clyde Surveys Ltd
T1tle Pa& ChAteau Cheval Blanc, Bordeaux
Contents
Foreword . . .............. ...... .. .. ......... . . 6
Introduction ....... ...... ... .. .............. 8
A Brief History of Wine
10
What 1s Wine?
12
The Vme
13
Grape Varieties
14
Te mperature and Sunlight
18
Water into Wine
20
The Changing Climate
22
Te rroir
24
Beneath the Vines
25
Pests and Diseases
27
Creating a Vineyard
28
The Vineyard Year
30
How to Make Wine
32
Why Oak?
36
St oppering Wine
37
Wine and Time
38
Appellations
40
Labels
41
Ta sting and Discussing Wine
42
Serving Wine
44
The Bottom Line
46
The World of Wine
48
France .. ....... ... ...... ..... . . . ...... . ....... 50
Burgundy
54
Cote d'or
56
Southern Cote de Beaune
59
Central Cote de Beaune
60
Northern Cote de Beaune
62
Southern Cote de Nuits
64
Northern Cote de Nuits
66
Cote Chalonna1se
68
Mii.connais
69
Pouilly-Fuisse
70
Beaujolais
72
The Crus of Beaujolais
74
Chablis
76
The Heart of Chablis
78
Champacn•
80
The Heart of Champagne
82
Bordeaux
84
Bordeaux: Quality and Price
86
Northern Medoc
88
St-Estephe
90
Pau i llac
92
St -Julien
94
Central Medoc
96
Margaux and the Southern Medoc
98
Graves and Entre-Deux- Mers
100
Pessac· Leognan
102
Saute rnes and Barsac
104
The Right Bank
106
Pomerol
108
St-Em11io n
110
Wines of the Southwest
113
The Loire Valley
116
Muscadet
116
Anjou
118
Saumur
119
Chinon and Bourgueil
120
Vouvray and Montlouis
121
Sancerre and Pouilly
122
Alsace
124
The Heart of Alsace
126
Northern Rh6ne
128
Cote-Rotie and Condr1eu
130
Hermitage
132
Southern Rh6ne
134
The Heart of Southern the Rhone
136
Chii.teau neuf-d u-Pape
138
Western Languedoc
140
Eastern Languedoc
142
Rousslllon
144
Provence
146
Bandol
148
Corsica
149
Jura, Savoie and, Bugey
150
Italy ...... ... ............ ...... . ............... 153
Northwest Italy
156
Piemonte
158
Barbaresco
160
Barolo
162
Northeast Italy
164
Trentino and Alto Adige
166
Verona
168
Friuli
170
Central Italy
172
Maremma
174
Chianti Classico
176
Montalcino
179
Montepulciano
180
Umbria
181
Southern Italy
182
Sicily
184
Sardinia
186

Spain ....... . . . ..... ... .. ... ..... . . ..... .... .. 187 The Rest of Europe . ....... ........ 248
Northwest Spain
192 Enctand and Wales
249
Ptfu Balxu
193 Swltzerland
250
Ribera del Duero
194 Valais, Vaud, and Geneva
252
Toro and Rueda
198 Austria
254
Navarra
197
Wachau
256
Rloja
198
Kremstal and Kamptal
258
Burge nland
260
Catalunya
200
Prlorat
202 Hungary
282
To kaJ
264
Andalucfa - Sherry Country
203
Czechla and Slovakia
288
Western Balkans
287
Portugal .... .......... ......... .......... . 206 Slovenla
268
Vinho Verde
209 Croatia
270
Douro Valley
210 Romania
272
The Port Lodges
214 Bulgaria
274
Lisboa and Peninsula de Setubal
216 Black Sea and Caucasus
276
Balrrada and DAo
218 Georgia
278
Alentejo
218
Madeira
220
Greece
280
Peloponnese
283
Cyprus
284
Turkey
285
Germany ....... .. ... ..... ................. 222 Lebanon
288
Ahr
226 Israel
287
Mosel
227
Saar
228
Middle Mosel: Piesport
230 North America ....... .... ............ 288
Middle Mosel: Bernkastel
232
Nahe
234
Canada
291
British Columbia
292
Rhelngau
236
Ontario
293
Rhelnhessen
238 Pacific Northwest
294
Pfalz
241
Willamette Valley
296
Baden and Wlirttemberg
244
Washington
298
Franken
248 Callfornla
302
Mendocino and Lake
304
Northern Sonoma
305
Southern Sonoma and Carneros
308
Napa Valley
310
St Helena
313
Rutherford•and Oakville
314
Stags Leap
315
South of the Bay
316
Sierra Foothills, Lodi, and the Delta 318
Central Coast
319
Vlr1lnla
323
New York
324
Southwest Stat••
328
Mexico
327
South America
BrazII
Urusu�
Chlie
Ar1entlna
328
331
332
333
331
Australia and New Zealand .. 342
Western Australla
347
Margaret River
349
South Australia
350
Barossa Valley
350
Eden Valley
352
Clare Valley
353
McLaren Vale and Beyond
354
Adelaide Hills
356
Coonawarra
357
Victoria
358
Mornmgton Pen insula
361
Yarra Valley
362
New South Wales
384
Tas mania
388
New Zealand
387
Hawke's Bay
369
Wa1rarapa
370
Canterbury
371
Marlborough
372
Central Otago
375
South Africa ........ .... .. .......... . .
376
Cape Town
Swartland
The Stellenbosch Area
Cape South Coast
380
381
382
384
Asia .......................................... 385
Japan
China
388
388
lndex ..................... ................ .. .. ... . 391
Gazetteer .... ... ..... ......... ........... .... . 400
Acknowledsments . . . . .. .... ....... . .. .. . .
418

6 FOREWORD
This Atlas seized a moment and an opportunity to map the world's
vineyards for the first time. The moment was a sudden flowering of
interest in wine, born in the exciting vibe of the 1960s, and by 1971,
its noisy adolescence. Suddenly there was a public for wine information
that had never existed before.
The opportunity began with a Dutch mapmaker's
dream ofexpanding into new fields. My own first
book, Wine, published in 1966, had sold surprising
numbers. Would I contemplate a wine atlas? With
top-grade topographical maps? You bet I would. I
realized that what had been mere lists in books (of
regions, ofcommunes, of vineyards) could become
vivid pictures ofvillages and fields, woods, valleys and
hills, to enjoy, to study and memorize with pleasure.
The Office International du Vin had filed the idea
under "Too Difficult". The infant publisher Mitchell
Beazley, having just produced a triumphant At/as of
the Universe, saw mere vineyards as low-hanging fruit.
Together we conceived a blend ofmaps at appropriate
scales, explanatory words, photographs, and charts,
and, in the first editions a selection ofrepresentative
wine labels. Being a former magazine editor, I treated
the design rather like a magazine. It caught on - the
subject, the treatment, and the design to a degree
that made the world ofpublishing blink. In two years,
we had sold 500,000 copies in half-a-dozen languages.
Forty -eight years and seven revised editions later, the
number is 4.7 million in 16 languages.
Why does an encyclopaedic work need so much
revision? There are fields where progress is gradual,
but the wine world in the past half-century has been a
maelstrom ofchange. Wine as a pleasure, a study, a
science, a pastime - and as an industry- has gone into
orbit. You can credit scientific advance (indeed, you
must), new interest in food, the expansion of travel
and foreign holidays, more disposable income, more
leisure, more curiosity, more ambition to produce
something exceptional and make a name in the world.
They all apply to wine - with the result, over five
decades, that we now have a vast choice ofat least
drinkable, and often brilliant and original, wines
to choose from.
.
They need investigation: tasting, describing,
and where possible, explanation. Why does the
same grape make a different wine in a different
place? What grapes belong where? When new
stars suddenly appear, as Australia and California
did in the 1970s, New Zealand in the 1980s, South
America in the 1990s, South Africa in the 2000s,
what's going on?
Ferment in new wine regions is echoed by
fe rment in old ones. Italy rediscovers its indigenous
grapes and creates brilliant new wines. Neglected
parts ofFrance turn over new leaves. Spain
shrugs off generations ofindifference and comes
alive with great new ideas. Greece emerges from
obscurity with scintillating scents and flavours.
No country is immune.
What an opportunity for commentators. Wine
competitions are in the headlines. Supermarkets
offer hundreds oflabels. Prices, in certain cases,
reach fa ntasy figures. The internet spreads the
word, and information in torrents cries out for
some sort oforganization and order.
Cartographers, happily, can keep pace. Well
briefed, they can lay it all out graphically before us.
You have the new picture ofthe new world ofwine
in your hands. The old authority, the first author,
has from the fifth edition been progressively passing
the baton to the most qualified new one. Jancis,
besides being a friend for decades, has earned a
unique international reputation for authority, taste,
judgement, and a prodigious grip on detail. Aren't
we lucky that she is here to take the wheel?

8 INTRODUCTION
This must be the most usefully comprehensive edition of this
classic wine reference so far. Two years of my life, together with
a sunilar period of devotion on the part of managing editor
Gill Pitts and her team and by the most diligent woman in wine,
Julia Harding MW not to mention the very considerable input
from the founder ofthe Atlas, Hugh Johnson, who handed over
the steering wheel to me in time for the fifth edition - suggest
so. The great irony of thejob ofupdating such a thoroughly
in-depth atlas is that it is so trodng and all-consuming that thos�
undertaking it hardlyhave the time to travel anywhere.
We do, however, from our base in London, wine-tasting capital
of the globe, have unrivalled opportunities to monitor the
extraordinarily vibrant recent evolution of the wine world via
bottles and glasses. For this eighth edition, I can report that this
particular universe is in greater flux than I have ever known it
during my 44 years writing about wine. This makes it extremely
exciting to be presenting a geographical audit ofthis melting
pot of cultures, natural phenomena, and, above all, wildly
varying ambitions.
In the 1980s and 1990s, it seemed as though everyone
interested in wine - whether producer or consumer - was
headed in the same direction. For winemakers, for the first time
considered celebrities in this era, the goals were clear. The great
majority of them seemed hell-bent on making the same sort of
wine: a copy of one of those that had established France as the
world's leading source of fine wine. So, no matter where they
were, and how torrid their summers, producers from Seattle to
Adelaide including European countries such as Spain and Italy
with perfectly good winemaking traditions of their own sought
to make barrel-aged Chardonnay in the image ofwhite burgundy
and Cabernet Sauvignon in the image of a Bordeaux first growth.
As the 20th century closed, this unity of purpose was
encouraged by the fact that consumers were taking advice from
just a handful ofgurus chiefly American critics who seemed to
reward power more than nuance. Far too many wine merchants
renounced their previous calling ofchoosing wines forthemselves,
and simply parroted the scores of others, which had the ef
f
ectof
narrowing aims and apparent achievements. Winemakers were
encouraged by their employers to do their damnedest to garner
high scores from the powerful critics, whether theylikedthe
resulting wines themselves or not Everyone inthe growing
International market for fine wine wanted the same trophy wines.
With predictable effects on prices.
While the price gap between the top and bottom of the
wine market yawned, the quality gap narrowed. Poorlymade,
'technically imperfect wine became a thing of the past, as
scientifically trained oenologists travelled to other hemispheres
to spread their particular gospel of clean winemaking. The ftying
winemaker phenomenon owed much to improved
communications and cheaper air fares.
But with the 21st century came change, largely healthy change.
The staying power and charm of those heavy-hitting wines were
increasingly called into question. Social media offered mil
l
ions
of channels of communication between wine enthusiasts who
no longer had to rely on a score or two from a single magazine or
newsletter. There was room for dialogue and myriad opinions
about wine.
At the same time, either producers or consumers 0 suspect
the fo rmer), grew restless at the limited varietal diet they were
offered. Movements such as ABC (Anything But Chardonnay)
flourished, as did the search for heritage tomatoes, legacy
varieties of apples, and a general call for biodiversity. The
Iocavore movement stressed the importance of indigenous
influences. Almost in a trice, local vine varieties were all the rage
- many rescued from obscurity, some rescued from the blends
There 1s no longer a single win emaking recipe. In his solar­
powered Fr anken winery, Ludwig Knoll can choose between
tanks, barrels, the buried amphorae on the right, and these
concrete "eggs" that keep lees m motion

into which they had previously been consigned, to star on the
front labels ofbottlings ofpreviously esoteric varieties Growers
in many newer wine regions, beset by rising temperatures and
ever earlier harvests, are now seeking vine varieties more suited
to warmer conditions. Meanwhile, in established wine regions,
the search is on for recuperated ancient varieties, some of them
without even a name. And global warming has set growers
everywhere seeking out cooler sites for vineyards, thereby
expanding the wine map not least towards the poles.
Another worldwide trend that came thundering into play was
understandable concern over our planet's sustainability. The
long term consequences of overreliance on agrochemicals were
becoming all too apparent in the impoverishment ofour soils and
the loss of wildlife. Organic farming increasingly seemed the way
to go. As early as the 1990s some seriously high-profile wine­
growers had already started along the cosmic path ofbiodynamic
viticulture (however difficult it is to explain how it works).
Hand in hand with this came an increasing distaste for what
was seen as manipulation in the cellar. If heavy-handed oak and
high-alcohol, deep-coloured, overripe wines were now out of
fashion, then surely light, fresh, crisp, pale wines with zero
chemical additions might be just thejob, was the argument. Thus
was born the new wave of wines that vary from all-out "natural"
wines of varying degrees of stability and technical competence
to wines from producers well capable ofmaking great wine
following the old conventions but who fancy trying their hand at
something new. An orange, or amber, wine from long-macerated
light-skinned grapes, for example. Or experimenting with
fermenting and/or ageingwine in acacia, chestnut or local oak.
Amphorae perhaps, or clayjars, concrete eggs, or ceramic
spheres. There is no longer only one way to grow and make wine,
just as there are now multiple ways ofjudging it.
Al
l
this, togetherwith the fact thatwine is produced in far more
countries and regions than ever before - thanks to a combination
of climate change, increasingly sophisticated ways ofgrowing
wine close to the equator, andjust how fashionable wine has
become - has resulted in far greater choice for wine drinkers, and
far more pages in this eighth edition. In the old days, everyone
wanted to taste a first growth. Today's wine lover isjust as likely to
want to tick offa wish list ofwines from 100 grape varieties or 50
countries. Meanwhile, today's wine producers are driven as never
before to express precisely the character of their particular spot
on the Earth, those spots becoming more precise by the year.
What better guide could there be than this Atlas?
Without whom....
It should be clear by now that no one person - nor even Hugh
and I, with almost a century of combined experience behind
us could possibly serve up everything tl1ere is to know about
our planet's wines. We wouldn't make such a claim. We have
benefitted enormously from the combined knowledge of a
network of local expert consultants (see p.416). It has been our
job to interpret their reports and to set them in'a global context
- and of course all opinions expressed and errors unconsciously
made are entirely ours rather than theirs.
Back at base, chez Octopus/Mitchell Beazley, I have relied far,
far too heavily on the goodwill, extraordinary competence, and
(particularly) memory of managing editor Gill Pitts, a veteran
now of all four editions of this Atlas with which I have been
involved. Bless her. And her two assistants, serially, Katherine
Lavender and Kathryn Allen. As well as the hugely talented
design team of art director Yasia Williams withAbi Read and
Lizzie Ballantyne. Denise Bates deserves mention as the most
diplomatic and consultative publisher I have ever had the
pleasure of dealing with in my long career as an author.
INTlltODUCT ION I
Then there is my colleague Julia Harding MW, mentioned
above, to whom no words are adequate to convey my gratitude.
I am hugely fortunate that she loves maps, and has developed
such a well informed network ofviti and vini contacts around
the world. And what would an atlas be without maps'? Others
without whom this complex oeuvre would not exist include
cartographic editor Lynn Neal, and Alan Grimwade and Mark
Eldridge at Cosmographics.
As ever, Nick and the rest of my family have been hugely
understanding and supportive. And lastly, I have to thank the
inimitable Hugh Johnson for inviting me on board in the first
place. What a thrilling adventure it is. I do hope you agree.
How this Atlas works
The maps have been put together with the consumer,
not the wine bureaucrat, 1n m i nd. lf an appellation
-
AO P/AOC, DOP/DOC, DO, AVA , GI, or South African
ward, for example - exists but 1s of no practical
interest to the wine drinker, our policy 1s to omit 1t.
If the name of a region, area, or d1str1ct 1s in common
wine parlance, even if 1t has not yet been granted an
official designation, we have tended to include 1t.
We have marked those wineries we think are of
particular interest to the world's wine lovers, whether
on the basis of the quality of their wine or their local
importance. It can be difficult in some parts of the
world, however, to pinpoint exactly where a w1nemaking
enterprise is based Many operations, particularly but
by no means exclusively in Cal i fornia and Australia,
have a "ce llar door", sales outlet, or tasting room
1n quite a different location fro m where they actually
produce the wine (which in some cases may even be
in a contract winery or custom crush facility). In such
cases we have marked the former location as being
where they choose to present themselves to wine lovers
Wine prod ucers are not marked on the exceptionally
detailed maps, such as those of the Cote d'Or, however,
since these concentrate on vineyard s rather than cellars
-
which tend to be huddled together 1n the same village
backstreets anyway.
In deciding the order of d i ffe rent regions within
countries, we have tried very roughly to go from west
to east and from north to south, although like all rules
this has its exceptions .
The maps in this Atlas vary considerably in scale, the
leve l of detai l depending on the complexity of the area
mappe d . There is a scale bar with each map. Contour
intervals vary fro m map to map and are shown in each
map k ey.
Serif type (eg ME RSAULT) on the maps 1nd1cates
w i ne- re lated names and places ; sans serif type
(eg Meursau lt) mainly shows other geographical
information.
Each map page has a grid wit h letters down the side
and numbers ac ross the bottom. To locate a c h ateau,
winery, etc, look up the name in the Gazetteer
( pp.400- 41 5), which gives the page number followed
by the grid referen ce.

10 A BRIEF HISTORY OF WINE
Wine emerges with the first hints of our civilization from the
East. The first evidence we have is chemical traces from pottery
fragments in the Caucasus (Georgians say Georgia) dated at
around 7000 BC. Perhaps Cluna got there first; we don't know.
Egyptian pharaohs had prestigious vineyards (thanks to the
Canaanites bringing the domesticated grapevine to the Nile
Delta) , even wine labels, but often preferred wines from "the land
of Canaan", the Lebanon, itself.
The wines we would recognize, with still-traceable roots,
begin with the Phoenicians and Greeks, who colonized the
Mediterranean: the Phoenicians starting about I000 BC, the
Greeks four centuries later. Wine was to make its real home
in theAegean, Italy, France, and Spain.
Ancient Greece and Rome
The wines ofGreece herselfwere lavishly praised and documented
by her poets, but it seems in polite society they were rarely drunk
straight, almost invariably flavoured with herbs, spices, and honey
and diluted with water. Certainly the wines ofdif
f
erent islands of
the Aegean (Chios and Samos among them) were prized for their
distinct characters. Whether the wines would appeal to us today
we have no way ofknowing, but the Greek term "symposium"
means a long indulgent conversation, not necessarily
philosophical, over plenty of wine.
Greeks industrialized wine-growing in southern Italy, Etruscans
in Tuscany and further north, and Romans followed. The greatest
writers, Vrrgil in particular, wrote instructions to wine-growers;
"Vines love an open hill" is perhaps the best single piece of advice
that can be given to a wine-grower. Roman wine-growing was on an
industrial scale, employing thousands ofslaves. It spread across the
emprre as far as Hungary, so that Rome was eventually importing
countless shiploads ofamphorae (their standard 36-litre container)
from her colonies in Spain, North Africa - the entire Mediterranean.
How good was Roman wine? Some ofit apparently had
extraordinary powers of keeping, which means it was well made.
The must was often concentrated by heating, and wine was
stored over hearths to be smoked, with perhaps a madeira-like
effect. Rome's great vintages were discussed and even drunk for
longer than seems possible; the famousOpimian - from the year
of the consulship ofOpimius, 121 BC - was being drunk when it
was 125 years old, stored man amphora. It was the Gauls who
invented wooden barrels, with such advantages in weight and
manoeuvrability that amphorae were abandoned. Most Italians
of2,000 years ago probably drank wine very like some of their
less-sophisticated descendants today: very young. rather roughly
made, sharp or strong according to the vintage.
The Greeks to
o
k wine north to their colony Massilia (today's
Marseille) in southern Gaul. The Romans domesticated it there. By
the time they retreated from what is now France in the 5th century
AD, the Romans had laid thefoundations for almost all ofthe most
famous vineyards of modern Europe. Starting in Provence, which
had had Greek-planted vineyards already for centuries, they moved
up the Rhone Valley and into the Languedoc, and soon north to
Gaillac, but we have no clear evidence of exactly when they reached
Bordeaux. By the time of the poetAusonius in the 4th century AD it
was well established. Ausonius also lived at Trier, Rome's northern
capital, and wrote paeans to the wines of the Mosel.
Al
l
the early developments were in the river valleys, which the
Romans cleared of forest and cultivated, at first as a precaution
against ambushes. Besides, boats were the best way of moving
anything as heavy as wine. Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Trier
probably al
l
started as merchant centres for wines from the
south, or Italy or Greece, and then planted their own vines.
By the lst century AD there were vines on the Loire and the
Rhme, by the 2nd in Burgundy, and by the 4-th in Paris (not such
a good Idea), in Champagne, and on the Monl. Burgundy
'
&C6te
d'Orremains the least-easy vineyard to account for, havingno
convenient navigable river. It lay where the main roadnorth to
Trier skirted the rich province ofAutun. Preswnablyftl dtisens
saw the commercial opportunity, then found they had cholen a
golden slope. The foundations had been dug for the Frenekwine
industry we still know.
The Middle Ages
Out ofthe Dark Ages that followed the fall ofthe Roman empire
yte gradually emerge into the illumination ofthe medieval
period, to see in its painted pages an entirely fam iliar scene:
grape-picking and pressing, barrels in cellars, and merry
drinkers. Winemaking methods were not to change in their
essentials until the 20th century. The Church was the repository
of the skills of civilization in the Dark Ages - indeed, the
continuation of Rome's imperial administration under a new
guise. The Emperor Charlemagne recreated an imperial system
- and took great pains to legislate in favour ofbetterwine.
As expansionist monasteries cleared hillsides and builtwal
ls
around fields ofcuttings, and as dying wine-growers and departing
crusaders bequeathed it theirland, the Churchbecame the greatest
vineyard owner. Cathedrals and churches, but above all the
multiplying monasteries, owned or created most ofthe greatest
vineyards ofEurope, and, later, the first vineyards ofthe Americas.
The Benedictines, from their great mother houses ofMonte
Cassino in Italy and Cluny in Burgundy, went out and cultivated
the finest vineyards, until their way oflife became notorious:
"Rising from the table with their veins swollen with wine and
their heads on fire." Reaction came in 1098, when Saint Robert
ofMolesme split from the Benedictines and founded the ascetic
order ofthe Cistercians, named for their new abbey ofCiteaux,
within walking distance of the Cote d'Or. The Cistercian order
was explosively successful, founding not only the great wal
l
ed
vineyards of the Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy and Steinberg in
the Rheingau, beside their abbey ofKloster Eberbach, but
magnificent monasteries all over Europe .
Before Ve suvius erupted m AD 79, the coast around modern
Naples was Rome 's prmc1pal vineyard and fa vourite resort
This fr esco fr om Herculaneum survived the destruction.

The one important wine region not dominated by the Church
was Bordeaux, where development was simply commercial, with
a single market in view. From 1152 to 1453, the great Duchy of
Aquitaine, most of western France, was united by marriage to
the crown of England and bent its efforts to filling annual wine
fleets, hundreds strong, from every coastal town in Britain with
hogsheads of pale claret: the vin nouveau the English loved . The
Vintners Company in London was granted its first Royal Charter
(virtually a monopoly over this thriving trade) in 1363.
But it was within the stable framework ofthe Church and the
monasteries, in which tools and terms and techniques seemed
to stand stil
l
, that the styles of wine and even some ofthe grape
varieties now familiar to us slowly came into being. Few things in
the medieval world were so strictly regulated. Wine and wool were
the two great luxuries ofnorthern Europe in the MiddleAges.
Trade in cloth and wine made fortunes.
The Evolution of Modern Wine
Until the 17th century winewastheoneand only safe,
wholesome, and up to a point - storable beverage. Water was
usually unsafe to drink, at least in cities. Ale without hops very
quickly went bad There were no spirits, nor any of the caf
f
eine­
containing drinks that appear essential to life today. Europe
drank wine in such great quantities that our ancestors must have
been in a perpetual fuddle.
Inthe 17th century, all this changed Wme met serious challenges,
starting with chocolate from Central America, then coffee from
Arabia, and finally tea from China At the same time the Dutch
developed the art and commerce ofdistilling, turninghuge tracts of
western France into suppliers ofcheap white wine for their stil
ls
;
hops turned ale into more stable beer and cities began to pipe the
clean water theyhad lacked since Roman times. The wine industry
was threatened with collapse unless it developed new ideas.
It is no coincidence thatwe date the creation ofmost of the wines
we consider classics today from the second halfofthe 17th century.
But these developments would never have succeeded without the
tunely invention ofthe glass wine bottle. Since Roman times, wine
had spent all its life in a barrel. Bottles, or ratherjugs, usually of
pottery or leather, were used simply for bringingit to table. The
early 17th century saw changes m glassmaking technologythat
madebottles stronger and cheaper to blow. At about the same time
someone brought together the bottle, the cork, and the corkscrew
The former Ctstercian abbey Kloster Eberbach was founded m
1136 With their vmes, mmes, and flocks, the C1stercians were
effectively the world's first great multmat1onal corporation
Bit by bit it became clear that wine kept in a tightly corked
bottle lasted far longer than wine in a barrel, which was likely to
go offrapidly after the barrel was broached. It could also improve
over time, acquiring a "bouquet". The vin de garde was created,
and with it the chance to double and treble the price of wines
capable of ageing.
The first quality-conscious "chateau" Bordeaux, Haut- Br10n,
dates from the mid-17th century. In the early 18th century,
burgundy changed its nature, too. The most delicate wines,
Volnay and Savigny, were once the most fashionable. Now these
vins deprimeur began to give way to the demand for long­
fennented, darker-coloured vins de garde, especially from the
Cote de Nuits. In Burgundy at least, though, the master-grape,
Pinot Noir, had been identified and made mandatory by the
rulingValois dukes. Champagne, too, adopted Pinot Noir in
emulation. Germany's best vineyards were being replanted to
Riesling. In the Medoc, Cabernet was displacing Malbec.
The wine that benefitted most from the development ofthe
bottle was the fiery port the English had started to drink in the
late 17th century - not out of choice, but because the duty on
the French wine they preferred was raised to prohibitive levels
by continual wars. Sweet wines were most revered Even
champagne was sweet. Mlilaga and Marsala were in their
heydays. Tokay (Tokaji), Constantia, and, in America, madeira
were the most highly prized wines ofall.
The wine trade was booming. In the wine -growing countnes an
unhealthy amount of the economy rested on wine: in Italy in 1880,
no less than 80% ofthe population more or less relied on it for a
living. Both Italy (in Tuscany and Piemonte) and Spain (in Rioja)
were creating their first modem export wines. California was in
the midst of its first wine rush. This was the world phylloxera
struck (see p.27). At the time, when it caused the pulling up of
almost every vine, it seemed like the end of the world ofwine.
In retrospect, the rationalization ofplanting. the mtroduction
ofgrafting, and the enforced selection ofthe most desirable grape
varieties together made a chance for a great new begin
nin
g.
Those who seek a detailed history ofwine should make a beeline for The Story
o/Wineby Hugh Johnson.
11

12 WHAT IS WINE?
Wme is a liquid with apparently magical powers. It can lift the
spirits, intrigue the brain, comfort the body, and stimulate the
soul. In more prosaic terms it is simply fermented grapejuice.
Thejuice of other fruits can be fermented into some sort of
alcoholic drink. Apples make cider. Pears, perry. Rhubarb,
blackberries almost anything with fermentable sugars- may
eventually produce a fruit wine, but grapejuice has the ideal
concentrations of sugar and acidity for a long-lived, potentially
complex drink. Unlike most other fruits, it can produce a liquid
that is about12to14% alcohol without any added sugar.And
grape juice is unusually high in the sort of acidity, tartaric, that is
particularly good at warding off harmful bacteria, so the liquid is
healthy and stable. Another attribute of thejuice of the grape is
its eagerness to ferment, often thanks to suitable yeasts naturally
present in vineyards and cellars and on grape skins.
Fermentation is the key to producing wine. The yeasts
effectively gobble up the sugars and transform them into alcohol
- making thejuice less sweet and more potent- and giving off
bubbles of carbon dioxide. If all the sugar in grapejuice is
transformed into alcohol, the resulting wine is "dry". But the
yeast may not be able to convert all the sugar in the very sweet
juice of very ripe grapes into alcohol, so the resulting wine will
still contain some sugar. (There are other ways of making sweet
wine, including adding some unfermented juice, using frozen
grapes and concentrating the sugars by pressing the ice out of the
juice as for lcewine - see p.293 but above all by using grapes
affected by a specific mould, Botrytis cinerea, also known as
"noble rot"- see p.104)
The colours of wine
The pulp of the grape supplies the sugar andthe essential acidity,
and is more or less the same greyish colour whatever colour the
skins of the grape are. The embryonic wine is a cloudy, pale-straw
colour. Its suspended solids eventually precipitate- so that a
clear, pale wine we describe as "white" results. For more on this,
see How to Make Wine on pp.32-33.
To make a red wine, the skins of darker-coloured grapes have
to be involved because that iswhere the pigments are. In.stead
of squeezingthe grapes to separate thejuice from the skins
before fermenting it (the white wine method) - thejuice is
deliberately left in contact with the skins. They are kept in the
fermentation vat throughout the process. Yeasts work only
when oxygen is not around (which is whywhitewine11 are made
in sealed tanks or sealed wooden vats). The bubbling carbon
dioxide protects the fermentingjuice from harmful oxygen and
pushes the skins to the surface.
. Grape skins also contain a useful supply of the preservat
i
ve
tannin. Tannins are the bitter component you taste in strong tea
or walnut skins. They provide the "bite", the "structure", and the
main preservative element in red wine. The make-up ofthese
tan
n
ins, and their relative ripeness, are matters of vital
importance and eager study to ambitious winemakers, especially
in wines destined for a long life. They are also why tasting new
red wine is not as much fun as it sounds. Embryonic red wines
may be kept in contact with the skins for days or even weeks after
fermentation. White wines, particularly those made with a
certain amount of contact with the grape skins, contain some
tannin too, but less than most red wines. So-called orange wines
are often a halfway house, made with some contact with grape
skins. They can complement food surprisingly well
Most pink wines are made from dark-skinned grapes using
more or less the same technique as white winemaking but
allowing the skins merely lo tint thejuice pink before pressing
it off for fermentation.
To make wine sparkling you need a second fermentation in
conditions where the bubbles can't escape, either in a bottle the
classic champagnemethod- or more economically in a tank
(the Charmat or cuve close method). The trapped carbon dioxide
dissolves in the wine, to emerge with delightful effect when the
bottle is opened. Wines such as port, madeira, and the stronger
kinds of sherry are called "fortified". Neutralgrape spirit is added
which increases their strength.
Cross-section of a Pinot Noir grape towards the end of the ripening process
Brush What re mains attac hed to
the stem when grapes are destemmed
at the winery, or knocked off the bunch
by a machine harvester.
Skin The most
important component
of red wines, containing
a high concentration of
tannins, colouring matter,
and compounds that
contribute to the
eve ntual wine's flavo ur,
swell as som yeast on
the outs1d
Stem (or stalk) As grapes reac h fu ll physiological
ripe ness, stems turn from green and fleshy to brown
and woody.
Pip (or seed) The number, size,
and shape of pips is different for
different grape vari et ies. All pips
release bitter tan nins if crushed
so JU St-picked grapes are treated
very ge ntl y.
Pulp (or flesh) This is wine's main
ingredient by vo lume, containing
grape sugars, ac ids, some flavour
compounds and, mainly, water
The flesh of almost all wino
grapes 1s this grey colour

I t is an extraordinary fact that this wonderfully varied and
evocative drmk we call wine 1s the fermented juice ofa single
fru it, the grape. Grapes are the most important commercially
grown fruit in the world. You can eat grapes fresh, or dried as
raisins, but about halfthe world's supply has a noblerfate.
To make wine you need grapes with enough sugar to ferment
into alcohol. That part is easy. To make good wineyou needjust
the right balance ofacidity, tannin, and less well-understood
flavour compounds, too. Every drop ofwine we drink is made
from water recovered from the ground and converted, during
sunlight hours, by photosynthesis into fermentable sugar, with a
little help from nutrients in the soil and a lot ofhelp from the
carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, which provides the carbon
building blocks for the sugars.
For the first two or three years of its life, a young vine is too
busy creating a root system and building a strong woody trunk
to bear more than a few grapes, but it is able to produce a
commercial crop from its third year, provided it is persuaded
to do so by pruning.
A vine can withstand much drier climates and poorer soils
than most commercial crops, so can often be found in
particularly hostile or remote environments. Vineyards are often
the greenest sights in a summer-brown landscape. It is a climbing
plant, so left to its own devices, once the root system is
established, the vine would rampage away, bearing some fruit but
spending much more ofits energy on making new shoots and
putting out long, wandering branches ofleafywood, ideally
seeking out a tree to climb, using its tendrils, until it covered as
much as an acre ofground, with new root systems forming
wherever the branches touched the soil.
Modern vines, ofcourse, are not allowed to waste their
precious energy on being "vigorous" - making long, leafy
branches - however much they may try. They are persuaded to
use their energy to ripen grapes, with quantity the watchword in
the most commercial vineyards, and quality the primary
objective in the interesting ones we map in this book. This means
THI VINl 13
pruningthe vine in winterwhen the sap has fal len and the dry
canesareeasytosnip, cutting back theplant to a carefully
calculated number ofbuds, in the right places, so that in spring it
will produce manageable and productive shoots. The vine can be
grown as an isolated little bush or trained in a row on wires.
The productive llfe of a vine
As a vine grows older, its principal roots penetrate deeper into
the ground (as far in some instances as 100 ft.'30 m) in search of
water and nutrients. In very general terms, the younger the vine,
the lighter and less subtle the wine although vines can produce
delicious fruit in their first year or two, when yields are naturally
low and the available flavour is concentrated into relatively few
bunches. Somewhere between three and six years after being
planted, the vine stabilizes, filling the space allotted to it above
ground. It produces increasingly flavourful grapes, so more and
more concentrated wine. This is presumably thanks to an
increasingly complex root system that regulates the supply of
water and nutrients to the vine and, in healthy soils, to a complex
system ofsymbiotic microbes (see pp.25-26).
The lifespan of a vine varies according to where and how it
is grown, and accordingto its variety (see overleaf). But many
vines are pulled out at 25 to 30 years old, when their crops often
start to decline to uneconomic levels. Some pest or disease
(see p.27) or other problem could cripple them earlier. Or a vine
maybe grafted over to a more fa shionable vine varietyby
chopping it off and inserting a new cutting into the trunk. Wines
from older vines can sometimes command a premium and may
be labelled specifically as the produce ofold vines vieilles vignes
(in French), alte Reben (German), vecchie vigne (Italian), viflas
viejas (Spanish), vinyas vellas (Catalan), or vinhas velhas
(Portuguese) . But these are all unregulated terms. For a first
growth in Bordeaux, the produce ofvines less than, say, 12 years
old maybe deemed too callow for inclusion in their principal
wine,whereas this would be regarded as an old vine in some
more commercial vineyards.
A vine's n atural tendency 1s to cltmb, as seen
here in Armando Gonzalez's San Rogue
vineyard m Cintl, Bot/Via The vines are thought
to be 100 to 200 years old.
See how fa r apart these bush vln es in La
Mancha, central Spam 's p articula rly arid wme
region, have been planted in order to allow each
vme the maximum amoun t ofgroundwater...
whereas m humid Bordeaux vines can be
planted much more densely, and minutely
trained on wires for an optimum balance
between quantity and quality.

14 GRAPE VA RIETIES
We use the word wvariety" to mean what a botanist would call a
cultivar; that is a variety selected and cultivated for its special
character. Perhaps 50 out ofseveral thousand are now grown
worldwide. Their names, once almost synonymous with the regions
that made them fa moui., have become international currency.
In the first editions ofthis Atlas al
l
the stress was on how terroir
determined wine styles. Now v.uieties have equal billing, andwe try
to puzzle out why theywere so happy where, so to speak, they were
born, and what other qualities they can offer far from home.
An acquaintance with the most successful, and hence specially.
well-travelled, varieties described on these pages would provide
a good start to anyone's wine education. At least some of the most
obvious characteristics outlined below each grape name should
be more or less guaranteed in any varietally labelled bottle.
But to progress in terms ofwine knowledge, you need to satisfy
some geographical curiosity. The maps in the following pages can
help to explain, for example, why Syrah grown on the hill of
Hermitage tastes different from another Syrah grown 30 miles
(48km) upstream on the differently angled slopes ofCote-Rotie
And why Syrah under its alias of Shiraz grown in South Australia
is a different thing altogether.
The vi ne fam ily
The grape varieties feat ured on these pages are some of
the best-known varietie s of the European vin1fera species
of the V1t1s ge nus, which also inc ludes American and Asian
vine species, and garden ornamentals (Virginia creeper 1s
Parthenoc1ssus).
In parts of the USA, wine is made fro m native American
species of vine Their virtue 1s resistance to many of the
common fu ngal diseases outlined on p . 27. Species such as
labrusca, though, have a particularly strong "foxy" flavour
(Concord grape jelly gives the idea) which non-locals find
off- putti ng, to say the least American, and also Asian
vines, can, however, be extremely usefu l for breed ing new
varieties for particular c onditions. Hundreds of hybrids
have been bred by crossing them with European vm1fera
varietie s, notably to resist fu ngal diseases (the s o - c alle d
PIWI varieties) or to ripen in regions with short growing
seasons and/or withstand arctic winters. Mongolian
species have been used to breed vines resistant to c o ld.
Thoroughly propitio us vineyard sites, by definition, don't
need hybrid s, whereas very cold ones, for instance, m i ght.
Crossings of vinifera var1et1es also play a p a rt . Mulle r ­
Thurgau, for example, was developed specifically to ripe n
in sites where Riesling would not, even 1f few people claim
1t 1s a perfect su bstitute.
Vines don't come with labels attac h ed . The science of
vine 1dent1fication by observation of precise variations
in grape and leaf shape, colour, and so on, is known
as ampelography It has revealed various unex pected
relat1onsh1ps between var1et1es, but none quit e so radical
as the rec ent discoveries enabled by DNA a n a l ysis.
This exact sci e n ce has shown that Cabernet Franc and
Sauvignon Blanc, for example, are the parents of Cabernet
Sauv1gnon, and that Chardonnay, Ahgote, the Beaujolais
grape Gamay, the Muscadet grape Melon de Bourgogne,
Auxerro1s, and many others are all the progeny of Pmot
No1r and the obscure but historic grape Goua1s Bla n c .
Pmot seems to be a great-grandparent of Syrah, and
Merlot 1s closely related to Malbec (Cot).
ThcN' looking for mor!' <l<:tuile<l inlormat 1011 ,1bout graμL vanct1e'
houJ<l,t·e H'mr Gm1ir\ uwmplcte gwde to l :168mw1•ar1c/ 1e ,
In< ludmg thw ong1ll' and f/amur• by J,inu' Robmson J uli. 1 I J ,11 <lmlo(.
111<1 J<N· \'ou1ll,1mol.
The most important
wine varieties
\;\,That fo llow� arc horl profi lcs ofthe world's m oi.t important
wine grapes in order ol the total area ofvirwy ard planted
w it h them. The leaves of l h e mo t famous varieties are a]&o
'how n, but identi fyi ng them in a vi n eyard isn't as easy a�
yo u might th ink.
The world's most­
planted wine grape
Blackcurrant, cedar,
high tannin
Synonymou wi th s e ri o u red wine capable of
a g eing into subtle splendou r. Fo r thi rca�on
,
Cabernet Sauvignon i also the most- travelled red
�ne
.
variety, but since i t is a re lative ly late ripener
it Is viable only in warmish climates. Some years it
may not ripen fu l ly even in its adopted homeland, the Medoc
and Gr�ves. But when il d oes, the colour, fl avo
ur
,
and tannins
packed mtu the thick ki n s of i ts tiny, dark-blue berries can
�e rem arkable. Wi th
car
efu lwinemakingandbarrel - a ge in g,
it can p rod uce some of the longest - living and mo
st
intriguing
red s of al I. In Bordeaux, partly as a n insurance
p olicy aga inst
poor weather at fl o we ri n g and its tardy ripening, it is grovn1
and blended with Merlot and Cabernet Franc wh i
'
cl
fl
r
'
1
ower
ear icr. It ca n make memorable wine unblended, when grown
son
�
ewh� re as
.
warm as Chile, pa1ts ofAustralia , or northern
C
alifor
m
a
,
wh ich has beco me its second home.
MERLOT
The world's second
most-planted red
Plump, soft, and
plummy
Cabernet Sauv 1gnon·,
traditional. slighl l) paler, fk�hicr b!L•n ding
partner, cspce ialJ\ In Borde.Ill . whcrl it i� th< .
mo�t μl.intcd grape, l'ipcn111g �oo 11<'1, mon' rc hahl)
tha n Cabt'rnet Sau 1 mun n eool et vintage� l t 1�
mort> alc!:))lnllc 1n ariuc 1• 011 s U�lligg rl e nu"'
.111dth1nJ1rr �kln» m nog nerall k t,11J1UL'. lllOl'l
opukntw111e Uwl anb ,'11JOY d ooo 'r. l\.lc1fot ,11_ oh,"
an 111dcpcndrnl cx1�t nc a n v ori tal , part1cu \,1rl1y u\ th
l
'
S
.
\.
\\h
e1'C'
1l regarded a c•a�i '1 to dl'i nk ti ni uH' lh lbrnlt
to ad111u l) lh•.m
, bcrnet, ,111<l m northcilbl llal)o, whl'n itt
ca..,11rto.rip •n 111IJll' '\lcrlol rar I>(·�c.1p1� g1eel\ll<1\1)1U
lt n-.1
d1L">
Ll ipog vrnT'om·nil 'hcrl'itca11r ult.in
l
1 t ,('.,�enc. It 1�w1dl•\\�1u\\11 111( ht\�•
\Olilj) Ll OLI ,
\
\\h<i<'LI'"' lo "'onfu..
.
cd\\lth ,11nHn•i •
.I•

T MPRANILLO
P m' most f. mous nd most­
pl ntedgr p
To bacco le aves, spice, le ather
(,oi,unckr 111 1111 11.1 1i1t·<, \, I il1lo I 1110o r
1 111!0cit I 1'011' it p1 o1 idt·' Ila h:t< J.
.
bu1w of H1hn.i
dd ll111 111-cl.11k dLL' Jl flm ourl'd IL·cl' 1 1,
.
11 llO/J
11'111pr.1111llo L.i11 m.1i.
.
t agt·11orlll\ l'\l . 1 I
.
n 111c· \ < hl1J1lti1e
\\ Jl)l' 'OJ11t llllll''"ll lldl'd \\Jth(,,11'll ltl1 I ( · j
.
'
'1
ll ,1[,1 Ull\'l ll1'
'>t 1 1tH· t1111c•• J.
.
nm111a,l llde Llebrc· 111 \· 11 .
,
.'•
.
·
.i < < fll'lla'-, ( c•nubel
ln'\,l\,11ra, 1ti-ollrnblLndC'dii ith,, I
.
.
•0n
c· .i trx grapes_,\ ,
I ml,1 llw J/ itha.., Jonghl't'n u'cdlorport . I
.
.,
.
,
.inc '' 11Kre.1 .,111gJy
J< put
_
cda
.,
u
t .illl c
•
11
111t•grnJll' 1111'01l1111
1J
I
I
.
"'
•I� ll' l'l' 111 t 1('
\lenll'Jo tl h known a' \.rago11e-, Itsearl\ IJ I d '
k
·
•
•
LI< mgma l''>1t
Htl11c·r.ibll• to..,pnngtro.,l-, th Lhin.,k111., lo rot but ti b I I l
inlc•1 n.1t1onallr lor fine winL'.
·
·
a ucc
CHARDONNAY
The world's most fam ous
white wine grape
Broad, versa tile, in offensive
-
unless over-oaked
Thewh ile hurf_ru ndy grape, but .,o mueh
less fir nch.·y than P111ot 'oir Chardonnay can
be gro w n and ripened without dilficulty .ilmosl
e1 erp.1 here except at the extreme., ofthe wine 11 orld (its earl)
buddmg can put it al ri ·k ofspringfro,t damage) . It beca m e
the wo rld's bcst-kno\\ n and 'ccond most pla n ted \\ bite wine
grape perhaps because (unitkc H1esling, for example) it doc
nol hal'e .i particular!) strong Ha\our of its 0\\ n , which is one
reabon wh) it re pondb · o 11 cll Lo barrel fe rmenlalion and
or oak-age ing. It ro ut1 11el) takcb on whalel'er character the
winemaker dc�i res: 1 ivaciou b and <,p a rkling, re fres h ingly
unoakcd, m:h .i nd buttery, or c1 en SI\ eel. It can make steely,
crisp w i ne l1h.e Chablis and i s parllc. ularly \'al uccl as Jn
ingred ient 11
1
champdgne and olhcr �parkhng 1\ ine .
SYRAH/SHIRAZ
Australia's most popular grape
Black pepper, dark
chocola te,
notable tannin
Vall )
GRENACHE NOIR/
GARNACHA TINTA
Chateau neuf's mai n grape,
enjoying a renaissance wo rldwide
Pale, sweet, alcoholic; needs full
ripeness to express itself; useful
for rose
Crenad1e b v.idel)' pl.rnled ro und Lhl \lnlilL 1 ra 11L· .1 11 ,rn d1 t 111
mo'it plan led gtape oflhe '>Outhun HhonL'. 11iwn 1t 1, otl l 11
hiended with\Jounedrc·. SHah, .i nd C111,,1ult l l 1.,al'o 11 1cltI\
grown in Ho u'>billo1nd1 ere , 1\1th Cruiatlll Bl.i11c ,111d(,rl 11 1l ltt•
Grb (holh of\\h1c:h c,in 11
1
.ike dr1 \\ hite., ofrt al <h.iral lL t)
tt'> high alcohol lewb are u-,elul lorthe n·μ,1011 ., \ 1n' J)oux
N.iturcls (st«' p . l++) (;arn.id1 a 11a., 011<.e Litt• nw'l pl,rnt< cl 1 <cl
grape In pai n , and old hw,111 111t•., 111 rel-(ion., smh ,i.
..
Ci nlpo cit
Borja and LheGredo., mountain' ean � 1cldg1 l«tl 1al ue11I Ill''
As Cannonau in Sard1111a.•1 11d ·" (;r< na< he in Calil'o1 111.1 .i nd
Australia, itts111t'l'ea .,111gil re.,pt•tted
SAUVIGNON BLANC
New Zealand's
signature grape
Grass, green fr uits,
razor-sharp, rarely
oaked
Piercingly aromatic, extreme!\
refreshing, easy to recognize and like, and.
unlike most ofthe grapes on the<,e pages. bc..
.
t drunh. rd.it11< i i
young. Sauvignon Blanc's original home in Fr,1n< e 1., the I .om
Vintages mt) here;itcan be prctl) .,ou r in a bad one (,nm n
m too warm a climate it can be super vigorous and lo..,e th
C'haractcri ticaroma. Itcanbe too heav) 111much ol C.iltlorn1.1
and Australia. Provided the 1111e\ tcnde n<:) lo L'\Ces.,11 l 1 1�m1 1
is tamed bj canopy manage ment, Sau1 ignon Riane " 1 1rl ua\h
sy nonymoub with 'cv. Zealand, nutab\� \larlborough and
wi ne make r� in Chile and South \frica hme learned \e"on�
from the Kiwis In l:lordcaux, ithas trad1 tionalil been blended
wit h Semi\\on for both dr� and tu�ciou-. '" eel 11 l ll
l
'"
PINOT NOIR
The great red grape
of Burgundy
Cherry, raspberry, vio le ts,
game, pale to mid- ruby
�(

16 GRAPE VARIETIES
SANGIOVESE
Italy's most-planted grape,
with many forms
Tangy, lively, fa irly pale, variable
fla vours: fr om prunes to
fa rmyard
angio\ ese Jb both t he workh orse and
potential hero ofCentral I ta ly - most gloriousIi- in Chianti
Class1co, Monlalc1110 (a$ Brun ello) , and fonlepulciano (as
Prugnolo Gentile). Il appears inthe Maremma as Mor el\ino .
The leabl noble Sangio\'ese clone , overproduced, make light,
tart red wine oceam of it 111 Emilia- Romagn a . The tradi tio n a l
Chrnnli renpe once insisted in d ilut i ng it with lhe white grape
Tr e bbi ano, and in the late 20th century Sangi ove ewas rather
<.corned 111 f;n our of Cab c rn ct and Merlot. Some Brunello
producers\\ere suspected of adding the Fre nch varieties to
thei r blend' \' o\\ , ho\\ ever, 100"1; angiovese wines arc not
JU st officially sanct ioned but \\ ideli- admire d .
MOURVEDRE
Bandol's grape, with wines
prone to reduction
Animal, blackberries, alcoholic,
tannic
1'.ot fa mous, but \ital 11
1
many warm ­
climate ble nd�. By far the most important
grape in Bandol, Pro\ e nce's m o st noble wi ne,
a l t h o ugh it has to be made with care. Throughout outhern
France, and South \ustralia, 11 add. fie h to Grenache and
Syrah blends 11
1
part icular .\s M onastrell, it makes hefty wmes
11
1
east central Spain. l l wa' known , and somewhat ove rlo oked ,
as Ma taro in both Californi a :md Australia until being re named
Mourvedre and cnjoymg a new lease of life, u ually in ble nds .
CABERNET FRANC
Parent and traditional blending
partner of Cabernet Sauvignon
Leafily aromatic, refreshing, rarely
heavy
([ rprogenitor of
( abcrnit, nu ·gn n Becau.�eit ripen
(,rt1 r, abcmtt ran l5 wide! planted
111 thc Lo ir and on th cooler, damp r
�o il
l Emil on. wh rr it '" ge nerally blended with forlot
Jn ti MC-doc Gra e& 1t 1 planted as <1 11 insurance against
ibemel Sauvignon' fJ ilur e to rip · n . Mud1 more rc�i�tant
to ld ,� 1111 p, than "'1erlot. 1t can make appcti?ingwme& 111
w Ze aland, Lo ng hland, and Waslungton Slate In northeast
It 11 1tc:an ta.,tepo<,1t1H•l> gra' ) , nd rcuchr., 1L �ilkyapoge '
h1non
..
RIESLING
The world's most
expressive, ageworthy
white wine grape
Aromatic, delicate, racy,
food-frien dly, rarely oaked
R
i e slin g is to wh 1le wine what Cabernet Sauvignon
1s to red il can make entirely di ffe rent wines
Ill differe nt places and can age magn i fi cently for many
years. Mis pronounc ed (iL i& " R eessling") , und errated, and
upderpriced for most ofth e late 20th centu ry, Riesl mg is slowly
c oming backinto fash10n. The winetends to bepowerfully
scented , reflecti ng minerals, flowers, lime, and honey
depending on i t s provenance, weetness, and age . W i th age
its wine acqui res an oily scent, particularly in wa rm climates.
Riesl i ng makes legendary bol1ytized wmes in its homeland,
Germany, but thank to climate ch a n ge it now make fine,
firm dry wines there, too. as we ll as lighter, weeter styles in
b e tween these two extremes. Ries Ii ng is still the noble t grape
ofGe rmany, Alsace, a n d Au stria and doe surprisingly well in
Australia, New Yo rk State, and Michigan.
PINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIO
Italy's extraordinarily
successful export, a� er
Prosecco
Full, golden, smoky, pungent, or dull
The original power base ofthispopular
grape was Al sace where, with Ri e sling,
Gewurztraminer, and Mu cal, Pi not Gri
i s regarded as a n oble grape , re&ponsible
.
for ome of the region ' most powerful, if relatively soft , wme ·
This pmk- � kinned Pinol is a cousm ofChardonnay. In 1
_
t
al .iti
known a Pinal Grigio and can produce both characterful and
decidedly dull d ry whites. Grower� elbewh ere, of whom th ere
are many, dither between calling 1l Gris or Grigio without any
ignificancc for htyle. lt is a !>p e cial ily in Orego n. New Zealand,
and Au s tralia.
MALBEC
Argentina's ad opted red grape
and most fa mous wine
Spicy and rich in Argentin a, gamey
in Cahors
Malbee i� a conundru m . Ith�u; long been .1
bl nd11
1
ggrapc al l over So ul lnwi:.t Francl',
including Bordcnux, but 1s Lhe dominant
grape onlyinCahori:., where, known a� crit or Au t'rro 1 �. 1t hn'
typically nwde 1111>t k, bonwt 1 m(•� r , 1lh e r animal \\ illl'� sutl bk
fo1 only medium term ageing. Em1grC:., took 1t t0 Argr n l 11
1
J,
wherr 111 M endo.w 1l w,,, "o c1L.1rl: at hmnl· lhat llh.1� bu·onw
the countr \ mo'>l popular n'd g1 ape ,uul m.1kL'' gJor10u'I}
velvety, concenlrall•d . liwl} w 1ne.,, high 111 ,ii< ohoI ,111<lt 11.It t
Ambitious Cahor' pwducrr., takt \kndo1 1.,h<•,I \ ! a l b< l' 1.,
th ir model

Quantity doesn't aJways mean quality
vr1t1
11stcd In d e scE>nd111g o rder of total area, all
f< tur m thE> 1 op 20 of the most planted grapevines, but are not,
1 n th great sch mo of things, a5 important as this suggests Fo r
example, 1n particularly dry aroas of Spam without 1rrigat1on, vines
ro planted so far ap rt (sec c.entral picture on p 13) that the
Spanish v r1ct1 s A1ron and Bobal ra nk 3rd and 12th, respectively
A lren , tho dominant grape of La Mancha, much of whose neutral
white wine Is dist illed into brandy
Trebbiano To scano has been widely planted throughout
Cent ral I taly but most of its wine 1s a notably dull white.
In Southwest France, where 1t 1s known as Ugn1 Blanc, the
wine 1s usually d1st1lled
Carignan, known as Car1f\ena and Mazuelo m its birthplace,
Spam, was once widely planted m t he Languedoc, and 1s
st ill an important ingredient m Priorat . Old vines can make
intense, interesting wine but overcropped ones have a
tendency to tartness
Bobal makes sturdy reds in eastern Spam.
Graievina 1s how the variety variously called Welschriesllng,
Italian Riesling, and various sorts of Rizllng is known in its
native Croatia. Often underrated, it can make fine wines both
dry and sweet.
Rkatsiteli is a usefully high-acid white wine grape grown widely 1n
Eastern Europe and as far east as Russia and China.
Macabeo, also known as Maccabeu and V1ura, prod uces often
ageworthy dry white wine m R1oja and Rouss1llon.
More varieties of interest
The e gra pes vari eties cover less ground than tho�e above but
are capable of making dis t i
n cti ve , good -qualit:ywine.
CHENIN BLANC
Ex tremely versatile; honey,
damp straw, apple characters
Chenin Blan is thegrape ofthe1 m idtlle
Loire, sandwiched between the Melon
de Bou rgogne of Muscadet and
the Sawignon l3lan<; o f th pp r
Loire.
It can ff\ake i1ervy, ag worthy.
distinctfve wf nesa
f
alltaeof
&weetnes!>. Botrytized henin u hai.Vo
u
vra
y
ca
n
begreat,
l ong- l ived, sw<'! et whit
e
but it al on1ake!l l
lg
b
tly
honeyed , �l ry,
still, ometimes oaked wine , and om ch
ar
,
terfu l ' parkl m
g
Saumurand Vouvra), Else w he r e
it
i
S
'J
Jl
ll
dl
m l · understood.
llmake� sometimc ord l n ary d wi n 111 bot)1 lifornlaand
Sou
t h frku, where iti widel
y
p Jan
tcd
u
n dtntdit n11lly kll(l\
\-
n
as Steen. 'ape h011in, p ciaJl from Old bu !wi ne,. c<.1n be
one of Lh • world' great white .
Gl'tAPE VA l'tlETlll 17
ZINFANDEL
Warm berry flavours, alcohol,
sweetness
Zmfandcl wa., n:ga rdcd "' Calilor11
1
,1\ o\\ 11
grape fo r ,1 centu ry, uniII il \\a., 1·�tubli,lwd
that, a� Pri m il1vo, it wa., known on Lhl'
heel of l taly al lca�l a., early ,1� the 18th
century. D \ analys1b h..ib c'tabl1.,hl'd
that it came origrnally lrom aero.,� the
Adriatic. The vine ripens LlllC\,Cll lV but bome bl JT ll'' bulid
almost unparalleled ,ug,lfs bO that "Zin" can be a' .,trnng .I'
1 791 alcohol by vo l u me. Cahfor111a'b intprc.,.,ivelj old \ llll'' I an
ma�e great red,, especially in Sonoma, but it " 11101 I: rnm111011l�
d e much le�' mtenbewine 111Lhc<. l'ntral\.iiIn
grown to pro uc
·
h l•·t •tr.1 pp ed ofcolou r flavoured w1lh arom.il1c '\I u'Lat
rnuco1"
•
..
orRiebl m
g,
and �old ab (pal e - pink) "\\.'bite Z111f<1 ndcl
MUSCAT BLANC/
MOSCATO BIANCO
Grapey, rela tively simple, often sweet
The fine ·t varietyof Muscat. It h<e> small
berr ie s (pelilsgrains in Fre nch) that arc
ro und rather than oval like those of the
less noble Muscat ofAlexandria (Gordo
Blanco or Lexia m Australia, where 1t 1s
grown for the table). A!> Moscato Bianco 11
1
ltaly, the tiner
Muscat is responsible for ti and many line, light fiat"'" [t
also makes appeal ing sweet wines in southern France, Corsica
and Greece. Australia's strong, sweet, stick) Muscats arc 111,1dc
fro m a dark-ski nned ve rsion, Brown .\:! u�eat. Spam\ :\lo�c<1 tcl
i u ually Muscat ofAlexantlna AsSarga '\1 uskotal) (Ycllo11
Muscat) it make upcrb \I me, �olo or blended, m Toh.<1J
SEMILLON
Fig s, citrus, lanolin ,
fu ll-bodied,
potentially rich
J

18 TEMPERATURE AND SUNLIGHT
Afterthe vine comes the weather, the second most-important
ingredient in wine and the great variable. Growing grapes to
makewine is highly dependent on both the seasonal and the
long-term climate, which puts the overall limits on the types of
grapes that can be grown where and how well, and the day-to-day
weather, which can make or break a vintage.
Manyweather and climate factors influence the grapevine
and its ability to produce good-quality fruit and wine, including
temperature, sunlight, precipitation, humidity, and wind. But
because grapevines grow best in specific regions in the mid-
•
latitudes (see the map on pp.48-49), temperature tends to be
particularly critical in determining whether grapes will ripen
fully, especially in cool climates.
Cool-climate wines, fashionable in the current era when
hefty wines are out offavour, are typically lower in alcohol and
higher in acidity than those made in warmer climates, whose
flavours may be less refined but more emphatic. Ifa vine is grown
somewhere too hot, the grapes ripen so fast and the growing
season is so short that, although sugar levels are high enough
to be fe rmented into alcohol, the grapes won't have had long
enough on the vine to build up much flavour. All over the world,
and not least because of climate change (see p.22 23), wine
producers have been seeking out cooler sites, moving uphill
or closer to cooling ocean influence, for instance.
You can, of course, play offaltitude against latitude. Average
temperatures fal l by about 1.1°F (0.6°C) with every additional
330ft (lOOm) in elevation, which is whythere are thriving
vineyards in the Andes and central Mexico despite their relative
nearness to the equator.
The annual cycle
Different weather and climate factors play different roles
throughout the year. In winter, when vines are dormant, extreme
cold can cause severe damage. While winters need to be cool
enough to allow the vine its revitalizingwinter sleep, and to kill
off any harmful organisms, iftemperatures regularly fall below
about 5°F (-15°C), the risk ofthe dormant vines being harmed
and even fatally freezing may be uneconomically high. Vines may
be injured by the cold and become more vulnerable to the various
dJSeases of the woody trunk we hear more and more about.
At temperatures below about -13°F (-25°C) vines, depending
on the variety, may be killed outright, so some sort ofwinter
protection may be needed. Painstakingly buryingvines every
autumn and uncovering them every spring has been the JD.0nn
in parts of Russia and China, for example. This is extremely
labour-intensive and expensive, and tends to harm a proportion
of vines, both damaging the wood and even sheddingproductive
buds as the vines are uncovered in spring.
Where really low temperatures are relatively rare, producer
s
may hope to ward offfatal freezingwith wind machines thatmix
cold and warmer air. In some ofthe coldest Canadian wine
regions, vine-growers have been experimenting with draping
· reusab le, thick geotextiles over the vines to protect them.
In northern Europe, the real danger comes in spring once the
vines have budded. Frost can pose a serious threat, especial
l
yin
late spring when the newbuds are open and the unprotected new
leaves perilously tender. Vine-growers use all sorts ofmethods to
protect the embryonic growth from freezing. including lighting
burners in the vineyards, spraying the vines with water to form a
protective layer ofice, and activating wind machines or even
hiring helicopters to stir up the air and prevent the coldest, most
damaging air from settling at ground level. Growers in Chablis
have been experimenting with protecting vines with textiles, too,
although this is a luxury that can be afforded only for the most
precious vineyards. Late spring frosts, such as that in many parts
of France at the end ofApril 2017, can seriously shrink the size
ofthe grape harvest. Autumn frosts, though less common, are
another danger and can suddenly call a halt to the ripening
process by dessicating the vine's leaves.
During the growing season, whichgenerallylasts between
150 and 190 days from budbreak to harvest, depending on
weather and vine variety, sunlight is critical for photosynthesis.
Butwithout optimum warmth and moisture in the form of
rainfall or irrigation (see p.20) while they are growing, grapes
will not ripen properly. In the heat of a hot sum
m
er, on the
other hand, photosynthesis, and therefore ripening, may
stop altogether. The stomata on the vine leaves can close at
temperatures above 86°F (35°C), or ifthe vines are stressed
by a severe water shortage. California growers dread these
"heat spikes" they can delay the harvest.
Te mperature parameters
Average growing season temperatures in wine regions varyfrom
cool (55°F/13°C) to hot (70°F/21°C), largely determiningwhich
In Nmgxia, in northern China,
winters are so cold that vmes
have to be buried painstakingly
every autumn and uncovered
every spring. The hard work
seems to be done by women.

varieties are likely to ripen consistently and well . Some varieties
ripen earlier than others that need much longer growing seasons.
To produce fine table wines, mean temperatures in the final
month ofripening should ideally be 60 70°F (15-21°C) . Hotter
climates, such as those of, Andalucia in Spain, Madeira, Klein
Karoo in South Africa, and northeast Victoria inAustralia,
are generally more suitable for fortified wines.
Broad differences between regions are also seen in contrasting
winter and summer temperatures. In continental climates, such
as those ofNew Yo rk State's Finger Lakes, eastern Wa shington
State, Ontario in Canada, and Germany's more northerly wine
Spring fr osts are the chief hazard in Chablis, where many
growers protect tender young buds by spraying them with
water that will fr eeze into protect/Ve ice
In Canada, growers such as Yvan QU1r1on at Domaine
St-Jacques in Quebec have been experim enting with draping
geotextiles over the trellis to protect their vines in win ter The
/ow-trained vines benefit fr om ambient heat fr om the earth.
regions, winters are cold and summers can be hot due to the
effect ofthe land mass. In these regions, temperatures fall so
rapidly in autumn that there is a risk that grapes simply won't
ripen properly.
Maritime climates, moderated by a nearby sea or ocean,
generallyhave more gentle temperature gradients. In warmer
maritime climates, the winter may not be cold enough for the
vines to fall dormant, and organic viticulture becomes dif
fi
cult
because pests and diseases are not always killed offby cold. In
cooler maritime climates, such as Bordeaux, and Long Island
in NewYo rk, the weather during flowering can often be unsettled
or cool, which can interfere with fruit set and therefore the size
of the eventual crop. Day-night temperaturevariation is also
important. Warm days and cool nights is the combination most
valued by wine producers. Wine regions in California and Chile
benefit from a reliable fall intemperature in the evening, thanks
to being near the cold Pacific Ocean - much colder, for instance,
than the Atlantic that air-conditions Bordeaux.
Sunlight quality
All sunlight is not the same . Its quality is another variable factor
The mteraction ofsunshine, leaves, and grapes is discussed on
pp.28 29, and the effects ofclimate change on pp.22 · 23. But
elevation has an impact on what sort of sunshine the vines
experience . Ultraviolet radiation is more intense in high-altitude
vineyards and those close to the hole in the ozone layer, such
as in New Zealand and seems to result in particularly thick
skinned grapes and particularly intense, deep-coloured wines
with high levels ofripe tannins.

20 WATER INTO WINE
The vine needs water as well as sunlight and warmth to thrive.
In temperate climates, an average annual rainfall of at least
20 in (500 mm) is generally needed to allow sufficient
photosynthesis to ripen grapes. In hotter climates, where
evaporation from the soil and transpiration from the leaves are
much greater, as much as 30 in (750 mm) of rain a year may be
needed, depending on the vine variety. Some varieties are
particularly tolerant of near- drought conditions (Airen in La
Mancha's is an example) , but are generally grown as widely
spaced bushvines so as to take maximum advantage ofwhat
little underground moisture there is.
Where there is much less rainfall than the vine needs,
irrigation water can make up for the shortage - for those who
have it. The quality and availability of irrigation water has
become an important issue in many wine regions, particularly
those parts ofCalifornia and South Afri ca suffering from
long-term drought. Growers who once unquestioningly
regarded irrigation as the norm are examining ways of using
less water, or even dry-farming. The vast inland regions of
Australia that for many years depended on the Murray River
and its tributaries to produce vast quantities of cheap wine
have had to readjust to cope with severe restrictions on water
rights. Water tainted by salt, common in hot areas, is another
problem that limits the effectiveness ofirrigation and can
damage the vines.
The structure and nature of what lies beneath a vineyard,
as well as the root system, plays a hugely important part in
regulating how much water - whether from precipitation or
irrigation is available to thevine (see pp.24- 26) . Andwhen
the atmosphere is hot and dry, the rate at which that moisture
evaporates increases.
If a vine runs short ofwater, it is said to suffer water stress
and is likely to produce smaller grapes with thicker skins.
Although this reduces the crop, it can, up to a certain point,
result in wines with greater concentration of flavour and
colour. Severe drought, however, stops the ripening process
completely; the vine goes into survival rather than reproductive
mode. The result is unbalanced wines. Availability of irrigation
water rather than any climatic aspect is what limits the spread
of the vine in many regions, notably in the southern hemisphere
and California.
In theory, there is no upper limit on an
n
ual rainfall, so long as
there is adequate drainage. Even flooded vineyards can recover
quickly, especial
l
y in winter. Parts of Galicia in northern Spain
and the Minho in northern Portugal, for example, can receive
an average of more than 60 in (1,500 mm) of rain a year. The
important Serra Gali.cha wine region in Brazil notches up about
70 in (1,800 mm) a year, much ofitduringthe growing season. But
excessive rainfall encourages the fungal diseases vines catch all too
easily (see p.27) . It also promotes the growth of so many shoots
and leaves that the canopy becomes too thick to let in enough
, sunlight. The result? Unripe grapes.
Heavy rainfall, hall, and humidity
We ather extremes such as untimely or heavy rainfall during the
growing season can have a major impact on both the size and
quality ofthe crop. Iftheweather during flowering in early
summer is unsettled or cool, this can affect both how much fruit
is set and how even is the setting. Prolonged wet weather in
summer also encourages fungal diseases. Heavy rainfall just
before harvest, especially after a period of relatively dryweather,
makes grapes swell quickly, even burst (making them more prone
to infection) . Sugar, acids, and flavours may rapidly become
diluted: the recipe for a "bad vintage" . (See pp.34-35 for details
ofhow winemakers can try to compensate for this.)
Hail, which seems to be becoming more common in Europe,
and is a perennial threat in some Argentine wine regions, can
destroy the crop, breaking the vine's shoots, bruising the wood
of its trunk, and splitting the grapes in swathes of vineyard.
Fortunately, hail tends to come in localized showers, but is
extremely dif
fi
cult to predict and avoid. Netting vines to protect
them against hail (and, sometimes, sunburn) is commonplace
in Mendoza. In Burgundy, therehave been experiments with
seeding hail-threatening clouds to alter the resulting
precipitation, or even bombarding them with shockwaves.
Vines rarely recover from the effects ofhail until at least the
next growing season.
Bernardo Roca's El Milagro vineyard in a desert near Paracas
m Peru exists only thanks to an underground river and careful
conservation of water all year round. Note the black 1rr1gation
pipes that drip -feed water to each vine.

Key Facts panels
WATIEN INTO WINI 21
Another water-related factor that it becoming Increasingly
unportant in vine-growing is the humidity In the atm09phere,
which some growers report hu been rising along with average
temperatures. The moister the atmosphere in a vineyard, the lesl!
evaporation there is, so the vine can make bet
t
er use ofthe avatlable
water. But fungal diseases love humidity, so this is a mixed blessing.
Wind effects
And one must never forget the wind. During the early stages of
the growing season, high winds can break offfragile shoots and
delay or critically affect flowering. Constant wind stress, such as
in the Salinas Val ley ofMonterey in California, can stop
photosynthesis and severelydelay the ripening proces
s
. Vine­
growers in more exposed parts ofthe southern Rhone Va lley have
to install windbreaks to curb the effects ofthe notorious mistral,
and the hot, dry zonda ofArgentina is feared rather than
welcomed by wine producers.
Other winds can be beneficial. Many a wine region owes its
existence to reliable coolingevery afternoon bysea breezes, and
wind can certainly help to dry out damp vineyards and help
minimize the risks offungal diseases.
Before and after a hailstorm near Grezillac on the night of
2 August 2013 that damaged around 25,000 acres (10,000ha)
of vines in the Entre -Deux-Mers region ofBordeaux
Many of the maps are augmented by summary panels of eac h region's
vital statisti cs: location; the principal grape varieties grown; viticultural
challenges; and, most importantly, climate d at a.
The weather stations (WS) that are the source of the climate averages,
denoted by an inverted red triangle on the maps, are chosen to best
represent the wine region. However, some are located on the edge of
towns rather than m vineyard s themselves, which means that because of
urban development and different elevations, they may experience slightly
different, often warmer, temperatu res than the vineyards the m selves.
The climate information, based on data kindly supplied by US wine
climatologist Dr Gregory Jones, 1s derived fr om the most recent 30-year
period avai lable for each location (mostly 1981 -2010).
Latitude I Elevation In general, the lower the
latitude, or the nearer the equator, the warmer
the c limate. But this can be offset by elevation, an
important factor also determining likely diurnal
temperature vari abi l i ty: the higher the vineyard,
the greater the likely difference between day
(maximum) and night (minimum) t emperat ures.
RIOJA: LOGRONO
Lat itude / Elevation ofWS
42.45° / 1,158ft (353 m)
Average growing eason temperature at WS
64.B°F c1s.2°cJ
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
-�
Av e rage annual rainfall at WS
Annual rainfall Average total prec ipitation
indicating the likely avai lability of water, although
soil type and structure have a strong influenc e .
Harvest month rainfall Average rai nfal l during
the final month of ripening and harvest (although
this can vary according to variety and individual
year); the higher the rai nfall, the greater the
risk of berries becoming diluted, splitting,
or being affected by rot.
Principal viticultural hazards These are
generalizations and may Include climate-related
challenges such as spring fr ost or autumn rain
as wel l as endemic pests or vine diseases.
16in (405mm)
Harvest month rainfall at WS
October: 1.4in (37 mm)
Principal viticu ltural hazards
Frost, fu ngal diseases, drought
Principal grnpc varieties
R : Te mpranlllo, Garnacha (Grenache);
W: Viura (Macabeo), Malvasla
Principal grape varieties A by- no-means­
exhaustive list of the var ieties most
commonly grown for wine 1n the region,
usually m declining order of importan c e .
Average growing season temperature
The growing season 1s taken to be 1 April
to 31 October in the northern hemisphere
and 1 October to 30 April in the southern
hemis phere. The average temperature during
that period gives a simple and re liable measure
of climate in wine regi ons worldwide.
These temperatures, calculated by taking
the av erage of the seven months of the
growing season, are classified by Dr Gregory
Jones into four climate grou ps· cool
(55-60°F/1 3-15°C), intermediate (60-62°F/
15-1 7 °C), warm (62-66° F/17-19°C), and hot
(66-70°F/1 9 -2 1 °C). These groups correlate
broad ly to the maturity potential for wine­
grape varieties grown ac ross many wine
regions worldwide, giving a good md1cat 1on of
whether a particular variety 1s llkely to ripen
in a particular regi on. The known cool limit
for viticulture is an average growing season
temperatu re of 55°F (13°C), while the upper
limit Is approximately 70°F (21°C), although
table grapes can be grown up to 75°F (24°C)
or higher

22 THE CHANGING CLIMAT E
The cycle ofplant life is a reliable guide to whether any spot on
the globe is warming or cooling. Everywhere, it seems, vines are
budding, flowering, and cropping earlier and earlier. The quality
and character ofwine is closely linked with weather averages and
weather events. When these change, so does the wine. So, for
wine-growers and producers, climate change is a hot topic.
The vine 1s cultivated commercially in two bands around the
northern and southern hemispheres (see pp.48 49) . There are
variations betwe
e
n regions, but average harvestdates in many of .
them are nowbetween two and four weeks earlier than theywere
two or three decades ago, in both hemispheres. In Australia's
Mornington Peninsula, for instance, grapes were often picked as
late as Maywhen the peninsula was first planted in the early 1980s
with late-ripeningCabernet Sauvignon. The fashion that prevailed
in the 1990s for high alcohol levels encouraged growers to switch
to earlier-ripening Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Theywere
initially harvested in April or late March.but today some grapes
may be picked as early as February. In southwest France, itwas
deemed extraordinary when in 2003 first-growth Cbateau
Haut-Brion started its white wine harvest on 13 August, even
though it is usually one of the first Bordeaux estates to start picking
because it is so close to the city centre. Traditionally, the Bordeaux
harvest kicked offin late September or early October. Today,
Bordeaux harvest start dates in August are a regular occurrence.
Winners and losers
Ave rage temperatures inwine regions have been steadily rising -
so much so that vine-growing has been creeping polewards. In the
1970s, itwas inconceivable that vinifera grapes mightbe ripened
north ofLuxembourg in anyviable commercial quantity. Today,
there are thriving wine industries inBelgium, the Netherlands,
Denmark, and Sweden. Ripe Rieslinggrapes have been harvested
from a vineyard in southern Nol"W'ay, and even in the definitively
continental climate of Poland viticulture is being revived.
Admittedly, some ofthese vineyards are planted with hybrids of
vinifera and other vine species that are early-ripening and
disease-resistant, but they are well capable ofproducing drinkable
wine, without needing undesirable agrochemical treatments and
Without resorting to super-hardyAmerican hybrids based on
native species with their "foxy" aromas. Because ofthis, the EU
conveniently classifies them as though they were vinifera, sothat
they are allowed to make "quality"wine. Typical examples are
Solaris for white wine and Rondo or Marechal Foch for reds.
They have even been allowed in some French vineyards, on an
experimental basis.
Major beneficiaries ofclimate change have been English,
Canadian, and German vine-growers, who are now so much more
likely to ripen a decent crop ofgrapes than they were a decade or
two ago. Some Champagne producers have even been investing
in land in England vineyards, where the high acidity required to
produce fine sparkling wine is nowadays easier to achieve than
in Champagne.
Itwas not so long ago that the chiefpreoccupation ofvine­
growers in Europe's classic wine regions was managingto ripen
grapes fully. To day, many ofthem are keener to ensure that natural
acid levels are high enough to result in crisp and balanced wines.
Changes in growi ng season ave rage temperatures
·c
230
210
190
170
150
130
110
90+-
--
--.-
--
1901
1911
1921
1931
1941
1951
1961
1971
--,
1981
1991
-,
2001
-r
2011
"F
73
71
69
67
65
63
61
59
57
65
53
51
J49
Marlborough
Burgundy
- Bordeaux
- Napa
Adelaide
Stellenbosch
- Mendoza
The upward trend is hard to ignore, even given considerable
var1ab11ity from vintage to vintage, particularly 1n Burgundy
Marlborough really 1s considerably cooler than any of these
other major wine regions; presumably the quality of sunlight
helps here It 1s also notable that the average temperatures
of Bordeaux and Napa are remarkably similar The most
important respective wine towns of Argentina nd South
Africa, Mendoza and Stellenbosch, are much hot t 1•, and , Ilk
all of these wine centres, are getti n g hott r II the time

It was the 2003 vintage, the first ofa series ofreally hot sum
m
ers
in Europe, that convinced the French wine authorities for the first
time to allow even Burgundy's wine producers to add tartaric acid
to grape must, as those in warmer wine regions outside Europe
have always been allowed to do.
Sum
m
ers are not just hotter overall (although ofcourse there
are unusually cool years such as 2013 in much ofEurope), they
are also in general drier. The increasingly persistent droughts
that have plagued parts of California, Australia, Chile, and South
Africa have led to a very evident increase in wildfires, some of
them having an all too observable effect on vineyards and,
sometimes, wineries. The effect ofsmoke taint on grapes and
wine has, regrettably, become an important research topic.
It seems that grapes that are exposed to smoke after theyhave
turned colour (the stage known as veraison - see p.31) may
produce wines af
f
ected by smoky odours.
Harve st start dates in Chateaneuf-du-Pape
11 Oct
60ct
1 Oct
26 Sept
21 Sept
#. 16 Sept
i 11 Sept
6 Sept
1 Sept
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000
Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the southern Rhone is j ust one example of
a wine region where grapes are now picked weeks earlier than they
used to be. Summer holidays have become a distant memory for
many vignerons .
THE CHANQINQ CLIMATI 23
In October 2017, wildfires in California, the result of sustamed
drought, encroached on many a vmeyard, wmery. and wmery
employee's home. For tunately, most grapes had been picked.
Changing tactics
Another effect of increased summer temperatures, or at least
harshersunlight, has been a greater risk of sunburnt grapes.
Towards the end ofthe 20th century growers were often
advised to expose grapes to as much sunlight as possible in
order to ripen them fully. Canopy-management techniques
were focused on snipping off excess leaves and thinning the
upper vine growth known as the canopy. But in some regions
today, even sometimes in northern Europe, excess sun can be
a problem, and a protective layer ofleaves is welcome, particularly
for varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc. In really hot, sunny
regions such as Sicily and parts ofCalifornia some growers
have been experimenting with draping vines with light textiles,
known as shade cloth, to protect grapes from sunburn.
For the same reason, and to extend the growing season,
some vineyards are deliberately sited on slopes that face away
from rather than towards the midday sun. And in established
wine regions, vines are being planted at ever higher elevations
and in wind-cooled areas in an attempt to slow grape ripening
and extend the growing season. There has been an increasing
tendency for sugar levels in grapes to race ahead of the ripening
of other necessary components such as tan
n
ins. This led to
growers delaying picking so thatgrapes were sometime
ove rripe. The trend now, at least in irrigated regions, is to
try to delay the build- up ofsugar in grapes by artful timing
at the taps. In some quarters where irrigation was once
de rigueur water shortage has led to a new enthusiasm for
dry farming.
The vineyard owner's response to climate change outside
Europe has in some cases been to consider planting. or
grafting onto, grape varieties more suitable forhotter climates.
In Australia, for instance, there has been a move away from
Cabernet Sauvignon towards more Mediter
ran
ean varieties that
need less water and can cope with heat In the clas
s
ic European
regions where traditional grape varieties are strictly prescribed
this is not, or at least not yet, an option.

24 TERROIR
There is no precise translation for the French word terroir.
Perhaps this is why many Anglo- Saxons long mistrusted it as
a Gallic fancy: a conveniently mystical way of asserting the
superiority of French soil and landscape and the unknowable
peculiarities that give French wines special qualities. Yet
everyone or atleast every place - has one. Your garden and
rrune have terroirs, probably several. Total natural growing
environment is all that terroir means. The only mystery about
terroir is how it is translated into the wine in your glass.
At its most restrictive, the word means land or soil. By
extension, and in common use, 1t embraces and connects the vine
and its roots to the soil itself, the subsoil and rock beneath it, its
physical and chemical properties, the organisms living in it in
combination with the topography, the climate (see pp.18- 23)
and indeed the weather. Many people would also include the
decisions ofthe grower and the influence oftraditional local
vine-growing or winemaking practices, which in Europe have
often been translated into legisl ation.
The natural envi ronment includes, for example, how quickly
a patch ofland drains; whether it reflects sunlight or ab1orbs the
heat; its elevation; its degree of slope; its orientation to the IUD;
and whether it is close to a cooling or sheltering forest or a
warming lake, river, or the sea. If, say, thefoot ofa slope IS
frost-prone, itwill have a different terroir from the hillside
above from which the cold air drains, even ifthe soil is the same.
In general, the higher the elevation, the cooler the average air
temperature, especially at night (which explains whywine­
growing is possible as close to the equator as, say, Salta in
Argentina) . Some hillside vineyards in northern California,
on the other hand, can be warmer than the valley floor because
they lie above the fog line.
Similarly, an east-facing slope that catches the morning sun
mayhave identical soil to a west-facing slope that warms up later
and holds the late-afternoon rays, but its terrolr is different and
the wine it produces wil
l
be different, too. In the case ofthe
meandering Mosel in northern Germany, the precise orientation
of a slope can determinewhether it makes great wine or no
wine at al
l
.
In a time ofclimate change (see pp.22 23), such aspects of
terroir are ever more critical. We are beginning to find out where
is, or will be, the best place to grow vines in warming world.
Today, we are made far more aware ofhow many different
terroirs there may be in a single vineyard, especially in regions
where vineyards may cover many acres and where the
boundaries may be determined by, say, a road or a line oftrees,
rather than a change in soil type or depth. In newer wine regions,
research and technology have provided the insight and tools to
manage the different sections ofa vineyard with greater
precision, ifit can be afforded. Precision viticulture optimizes
the potential quality of every patch ofvines by looking at terroir
in a degree ofdetail only made possible by advanced technology.
Vineyard zoning
"Zoning" has become an exact and exacting science, harnessing
geology (the underlying rocks), geomorphology (how the land
is shaped by the geology), and pedology (the study of soils) - see
opposite. Growers can now acquire soil maps at very high
resolution to help them decide which plot ofland to buy, how
to modify various parts ofit, and exactly which variety to plant
where for a notional ideal wine. Results are not guaranteed. In
existing vineyards, especially big ones where the size of the crop
and its ripeness often varies from one spot to another, the
vigour of the vines can be measured and crops can be monitored
and mapped by such sophisticated methods as remote sensing
via aerial imagery. Approaches to such zoningvary, but
increased geographical and viticultural precision allows
growers the luxury of, for example, picking each plot within a
vineyard at just the right moment, or spraying the vines less or
more in certain blocks. But it costs; the potential quality and
price of the wine must be high enough to justify the expense.
Zoning on a larger scale is also a critical tool in delimiting areas
in newer wine regions.
The lu•h and th• arid What a difference Irrigation mak••
to the Blue Mountain vineyard In the seml·d•••rt of Brltl•h
Columbia's Okanagan Valley. while on Lanzarote In th•
Canary Islands, vin ea are dry-grown and trained low on
volcanic ash In La Gerla vineyard.

Where terr01rvaries most, and most critically, 1s the extent to
which water and nutrients are available. Given the temperatures
necessary to ripen grapes, both these components of terroir may
ofcourse be manipulated by a grower. Growers may, and often
must, add fertilizer, irrigation or drainage, or make up for a lack
of organic matter. The extent to which nutrients are available to
the vine is also influenced by the microbes in the soil, many living
symb1otically on the roots ofvines and any crops planted
between the vines, known as cover crops.
Soll
Vineyard soils vary enormously in their age, composition,
texture, structure, depth, and drainage and vines are able to
thrive in soils in which most other crops would struggle to
survive. These characteristics in tum affect their fertility,
water-holding capacity, and temperature and therefore the
quality and quantity of the resulting wine.
But nitrogen, and not too much, is vital for good wine. Ifa vi ne
is planted on fertile ground with constant access to water, such as
some ofthe least propitious sites on the floor ofthe Napa Valley,
its natural behaviour will be to become too vigorous, growing
extravagant shoots and leaves. They shade any fruit, producing
unripe grapes and wines that actually taste leafy and gree n.
In very infertile soil, on the other hand, with water and
nutrient supplies severely restricted, in the full heat ofsummer
photosynthesis mayvirtually stop. Many ofthe traditional
vineyards ofcentral Spain and southern Italyhave this problem.
The vine suffers such water stress it "shuts down" and, just to
survive, has to use up, or respire, energy that should have gone
into the ripening grapes. Sugar concentration does increase in
the grapes under these circumstances, but only from the gradual
evaporation ofwater from the berries. Desirable flavour
compounds are not formed, tan
n
ins do not ripen and the result
is unbalanced wines, high in alcohol but with harsh tan
ni
ns,
feeble flavours, and dangerously unstable colours.
Fertility and the roots' access to water are also gove rned by
the texture and structure ofthe soil. Clay soils may drain less well
than gravelly or sandy soils, but their very fine texture generally
allows the vine access to more nutrients. Stony or gravelly soils
are particularly valued in wetter regions such as Bordeaux
because they offer good drainage but also absorb more heat and
raise the temperature beneath the vine, as do big stones in parts
ofChiiteauneuf-du-Pape or deep gravel in New Zealand's
Gimblett Gravels.
Soil "profiling" is an extremely useful tool to investigate and
explain the variation and behaviour ofsoils within a vineyard,
large or small. Its results, analysed, can then be used to manage
the vines better.
Soils change over time, too, by continued weathering or the
effe cts ofgravity and erosion. This explains whythe middle
section ofa slope is often considered the best for vines: the top
tends to have thinner, poorer, leached soil in which vines
struggle, and the bottom ofthe slope or a valley deeper and
more fe rtile soil where the vines are too vigorous. The �ote d'Or
provides classic examples.
Geology
What liesbeneath the soil, and in many cases has weathered to
produce it, is the subject of more myth , romance, and marketing
hyperbole than any other part ofthe vineyard In some instances
there do seem to be indirect connectionsbetween the hidden
rocks - occasionally protruding as outcrops above the soil and
the wines from the surface. Why, for example, might there be a
perceptible family likeness between the taste or texture ofwines
grown on granite soils or in vineyards dominated by slate or
Soil profiling
In Bordeaux in the 1960s and 1970s, Gerard Segu in dug
deep trenches in the Medoc to investigate the soil in depth
He showed that the very best soils were not particularly
fertile and drained quickly and deeply Vine roots penet rate
a long way to find moisture, in Margaux as fa r as 23ft (7m)
Subsequent research has shown that 1n non- 1rr1g at ed
vineyards it is not so much the depth of the soil as the
avai lability of water that mat ters . The water·holding
capac ity of richer soils can be too great On heavy clay in
Pomerol (for exam ple, Petrus), roots may go no deeper
than about 4.3 ft (1 .3m) and on the limestone soils of
St-Emilion (for example, Chateau Ausone), roots range
from 6 .6ft (2m) on the slopes to 1 .3ft (0.4m) on the plateau
(see map on p .112). However, in clay soils there must be
enough organ ic matter to create a structure that allows
the soil to drain. It seems, based on such research, that
drainage and water ava1lab11ity, rather than precise
chemical composition, are the key to the perfect soil
for great wine
These days, soil p i ts are proliferat ing. Some vineyard
consultants focus on soil type and depth and water
avai labi lity to adv ise on the timing and minimum levels of
irrigat ion or to advocate vineyard practices that may avoid
the need for irrigation altogether. Others dig deeper to
investigate not JUSt the type of rock and the way 1t fractures
- important for root penetration - but also its w ater- h o ldi ng
capacity, aiming to understand the rock's influence on
tanni n s : granite soils often produce wines with dry tan nins,
some volcanic soils may be associated with bitter tannins .
To say they cause them, though, 1s a step too far
The Chilean soil and terro1r specialist Pedro Parra
(pictu red), who consults all over the world, starts by
defi ning the mother rock (exam ples include limestone in
Burgundy, schist in Spain's Priorat, or gran ite in Chile's
Cauquenes) and then takes into account geo morphology
(the way, for instance, layers of hard and soft rock create
plateau x and slopes) and finally he looks at the ac tual soil,
includi ng its texture and porosi ty. Yo unger soils such as
those 1n Crozes- Herm1tage or the Ma1po Valley in Chile are
not ge nerally shaped by their geology, although grave lly
alluvial terraces often produce wines that show, says
Parra, the complexity of a "geological t e r ro 1 r " . For all this
to be relevant to the wine-grower, the profiler has to dig
enough pits to explore the diversity of the whole vineyard
and try to correlate how the vines perform with the soil
analysis. The real wonder is how great terroirs were
discovered befo re we had all this tec hno logy.
The vividly varied soil profile of Barossa Valley's Northern
Grounds is the sort of thing that thrills Chilean terroir
consultant Pedro Parra, seen here m a soil pit in San
Vic ente de la Sonsierra in Rio1a . Wine regions around
the world are now dotted with soil pits .

26 BENEATH THE VINES
limestone? In France they love to credit limestone (calcaire)
with every virtue and quality even contradictory ones. Can it be
reduced to nutrition, water availability, and soil temperature?
Or is there a mechanism as yet unknown that provides a bridge
between the underlying rocks and the taste in the glass?
Geologists refer to three types of rocks according to their
origin: igneous rocks, such as granite; sedimentary rocks, such
as limestone; and metamorphic rocks, such as slate . But it is the
hardness ofthe bedrock and its susceptibility to erosion that are
significant to the vineyard, because they influence vineyard
topography, af
f
ecting the ability ofroots to access water and
nutrients, and accentuating or mitigating such climatic
influences as sunlight, frost, or wind (see pp.18-21).
Nutrient elements such as potassium and magnesi um,
essential to growth and sometimes referred to as "minerals",
are derived from compounds in thebedrockthat are also,
confusingly, called minerals. It is easy to see whythe term
"minerality" is so misinterpreted and abused. It is scientifically
evident that there is no direct connection between the geological
minerals and the flavours in a wine described as "flinty" or
"volcamc". Recent research has suggested thattheymay
insteadbe due to sulphur-related compounds produced during
fermentation, or to acidity which will not stop "mineral'" being
used in tasting notes, usually favourably.
Living •oll•
Conscientious farmers have always paid attention to the health
of their soils. They know healthy plants thrive in soils with
adequate organic matter and a thriving population of microbes
and other organisms. Earthworms are a crucial sign ofsoil
health; they burrow in the soil and aerate it, turning organic
matter into humu s.
Soils that are too rich in organic matter may be too high in
nitrogen and result in high-yielding vines that fail to ripen.
On the other hand, when the vine's supply ofnitrogen is too
restricted, the yeasts in the fe rmentation vat may go hungry
and struggle to work their magic on the grape juice Sandy soils
are often low in organic matter and al
l
ow water to drain away
too quickly.
Inthe1e
e
ond decade ofthis century, research began to sug
ges
t
that even though the microbial life ofthe soil can be encouraged
by vineyard practices such as organic viticulture or growing
It seems scarcely beDevable
that vines can thrive In terrain
like this: shards oftfu# fa mous
llicorel/a slate and quartz that
1s characteristic ofPrlorat In
northeast Spain. But they CWI
and do. Hardy plant&, vines.
cover crops, it is part ofthe distinctive natural environment
of a vineyard and thus part ofwhat we have called terroir.
A plant's ability to reach those two key contributors to its
health a moderate supply ofwater and enough but not too
much nutrients depends on al
l
this activity. And in the case
of a vine, so does the quality ofits wine.
Managing terroir
Sowhat sort ofterroir naturally produces great wine? Research
into the crucial interaction between soil and water and vine
nutrition has developed considerablyover the last 50 years, and
in the last 15 years, sophisticated technology has brought a far
greater understanding of very localized terroir effects.
In Burgundy's Cote d'Or, for example, the vineyards that have
over time proved to produce the finest wines tend to be those
in the middle ofthe slope. The combination of marl, silt, and
limestone built up there by millennia of erosion (see p.57) works
to give the adequate but restricted water supply ideal for good
wine. It should be said, however, that superior terroirs have a
way of perpetuating themselves that is not entirely natural. The
owner ofGrand Cru land can afford to maintain it to perfection
with drainage pipes or ditches, the precise amount and quality of
fe rtilizer, and ideal cultivation techniques, while such cosseting
is uneconomic for a less glorified location. Te rroirs depend on
people and their money for their expression. In the 17th century,
the owner ofRomanee-Conti even carted in vast amounts of
fertile soil from the distant Saone Valley.
Some organic and biodynamic wine-growers believe the term
terroir should also apply to all the flora and fauna ofthe land,
visible or microscopic (such as yeast) . Terroir is thus inevitably
changed by chemical fertilizers and other soil additions from
outside the ecosystem ofthe local vineyard. You could also argue
that centuries of monoculture and such wholesome practices as
ploughing and planting cover crops have almost certainly altered
the land. Butthe interesting thing isjust how much even adjacent
plots ofland can vary in the wines they produce, even when they
have been nurtured in exactly the same way
The remaining mystery about terroir is exactly how 1t 1s
translated into the quality, flavour, and texture of the wine In
your glBl
l
.

The European vme family ofthe Vitis genu1 was named vinifera
or "wine· bearing' in 1753 by the Swedish taxonomist Carl
Linnaeus. Since then, vinifera vines have acquired cou ntless
enemies, the worst of them diseases and pests introduced far to
o
recently (mostly from America) for them to have developed any
natural resistance
In the 19th century, two fungal diseases first powdery mildew
(oidium) and then downy mildew (peronospera) - attacked
Europe's vines and vinifera vines planted in the New Wo rld.
Laborious remedies were discovered, though both still tend to
need treatment by regular spraying. The persistent drone of
tractors spraying vineyards in the growing season may also be
accounted for by rot, specifically the malign form ofbotrytis
fungus (as opposed to thebenevolent form, Botrytis cinerea,
essential for exceptional sweet white wines; see p.104) . This
botrytis bunch rot, also called grey rot, gives the grapes a mouldy
taste, and is increasingly resistant to anti-rot chemicals.
Soon after a cure for the two mildews had been deve loped, a far
more dangerous scourge was identified. The louse stage of the
aphid phylloxera feasts on the roots ofthe vine and eventually
kills it. It almost destroyed all Europe's vines, until itwas finally
discovered that native American vines (phylloxera came from
America) are immune. Virtually every vine in Europe and
beyond had to be replaced with a vinifera cutting grafted onto a
cutting from an American vine whose roots are resistant to the
damage caused by phylloxera.
Some ofthe world's newer wine regions have yet to experience
this predatory aphid, and so still plant their vines directly as
ungrafted cuttings. In Oregon and New Zealand, however, this
has proved a short-term stratagem, and in the 1980s vine­
growers in northern California learnt to their cost that
rootstocks have to be very carefully chosen if they are to offer
reliable resistance to phylloxera. Strict quarantine rules are in
force in many wine regions South Australia is one - to keep
phylloxera out. It is very much alive and dangerous in the
neghbouring state ofVictoria.
Vine dining
The parts ofthe vine that grow above ground are on the menu for
a whole menagerie, too. Red spiders, the grubs ofthe cochylis and
eudemis moths, various sorts ofbeetles, bugs, and mites find
vines nutritious. Other enemies ofthe vines include the Asian
lady beetle, which releases a bodyfluid that even in tiny amounts
taints the wine, and the spotted wing drosophila (Drosophila
suzukiz), a particularly noxious fruit fly.
.. IEITI AND DISEASES 27
The spread ofphyll oxera
1863 Phylloxera louse discovered In southern
England
1866 Fo und In the southern Rhone Va lley and
the Languedoc, France
1869 Phylloxera reac hes Borde aux.
1871 Discovered in Portugal and Turkey
1872 Phylloxera found in A u s tria .
1874 The louse spreads to Switzerland
1875 Phylloxera found in Italy and also as far
afield as V1ctor1a, Australia, in late 1875
or early 1 876.
1878 Phylloxera reac hes S pam. Grafting of vines
onto resistant American rootstocks begi ns
1n F rance.
1881 Presence of phylloxera confirmed 1n German
vineyard s
1885 The louse 1s discovered in Algeria .
1897 Phylloxera found in Dal matia (Croatia)
1898 Spreads to Greece
1980s P hylloxera- affe cte d vines found in northern
Califo rnia.
1990s Diseased vines discovered in Oregon and
in New Zealand.
2006 Phylloxera found in the Yarra Va lley, V1ctor1a,
A ustralia .
Most of these pests can be controlled by various chemical
sprays. Meanwhile, the growing band of organic and biodynamic
vine-growers are experimenting with more natural methods
such as predators, pheromones, and various preparations, some
ofthem sounding, on the face of it, rather unlikely.
Pierce's Disease is spread by a leafhopper, the glassy-winged
sharpshooter, whose ability to fly long distances has put a wide
range ofAmerican vineyards at risk. Vines die within five years
of first succumbing to this bacterial disease, showing first as dead
spots on the leaves, whi,ch eventually fall off. No grape varieties
are resistant to "PD". Another fatal vine disease spread by
leaJhoppers is grapevine yellows, ofwhich the form known in
French asjlavescence doree is one of the most common. But
perhaps the greatest current threat to the world's vineyards are
the grapevine trunk diseases, including esca and eutypa dieback,
that are shrinkingyields and vine life expectancy. For the
moment there is no known cure .
Vtne trunk diseases are probably the greatest
threat to profitable v1tlculture today. This leaf
pattern 1s a sign of esca which, along with
eutypa d1eback, is one of th• most common.
This vine is affected by Pierce 's Disease, which
is always fa tal It 1s endemic in Te xas and
southern California and Is now fo und near
creeks in northern California, too.
Leafroll virus and its red-leaved symptoms
mczy be beloved by photographers but it can
severely restrict yields and the extent to
which grapes will ripen properly.

28 CREATING A VINEYARD
Once grape-growers have chosen the variety that 1s best-suited
to their land having taken into account the likelyeffect of
weather, climate, and the local environment on the vines - how
do they decide exactlywhere and how to plant them? Vineyard
site selection, while virtually unknown In the traditional wine
regions of Europe, where inheritance, appellation laws, and
planting rights tend to dictate vineyard location, is becoming
an increasingly important and exact science.
A prospective vineyard investor needs to know that a
commercially viable quantity ofhealthy grapes is likely to be
ripened on that site every year. Close analysis of topography,
climate, and soil data (see p.25) is safer than acting on a hunch.
Crude statistics on temperature, rainfall, and sunshine hours
can help, but need careful interpretation. High average summer
temperatures, for instance, may lookgood on paper, but
photosynthesis effectively stops above a certain temperature
(between about 85 and 95°F/30 and 35°C) depending on the
location and variety, so ripening could be slowed to a crawl, or
cease altogether, ifthere are too manyvery hot days. Wind,
excluded from many sets of meteorological statistics, can also
stop photosynthesis by closing the stomata, the tiny openings on
leaves and berries that regulate the process.
In cooler areas, is it warm enough to ripen the grapes reliably?
If average summer and autumn temperatures are relatively low
for viticulture (as in England), or ifautumn usually arrives early
with either rain (as in Oregon) or a sudden drop in temperature
(as in British Columbia), then relatively early-ripening varieties
may be needed. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are fine for the
Willamette Valley, but even they ripen too late for vineyards
further from the equator. Riesling will ripen on the most
favoured sites in the Mosel in western Germany but would be
marginal for England even if climate change is making
this less predictable. The precise rootstock onto which the vine
is grafted has to be chosen with care, too, bearing in mind the
soil and climate.
Ave rage summer rainfall and its timing gives a useful
indication ofthe likelihood offungal diseases (se
e
p.27).
Monthly rainfall totals, probable evaporation, and soil analysis
should help gauge the need for irrigation (see p.20) . Where
irrigation is allowed, a suitable source of water must be found
Precise control oftiming and rates ofirrigation is an
increasingly important way ofshaping the quality as well as
ihe quantity of wine produced. Lack ofwater is likely to be the
most significant brake on planting new vineyards in California,
Argentina, and, especially, Australia, where water may either be
unavailable, too expensive, or too saline, thanks to excessive
deforestation.
Wa ter may be needed for other purposes, too. At the coolest
limits ofviticulture, in Ontario and the northeastern states ofthe
USA, for example, the total number offrost-free days governs the
length ofthe growing season and therefore which grape varieties
are likely to ripen. In Chablis and Chile's cool Casablanca Va lley,
water is needed for sprinkler systems to protect young vines from
frost, but in Casablanca there is a watershortage - frost having
proved an unfo reseen hazard.
As outlined on pages 24-26, the soil, or soils, ofany
prospective vineyard site needs careful, often minute,
Urug uay's 583- acre (2 36-ha) Bodega Garzon 1s new and
ambitious. Hence this map ofits 1,200 plots, each with a
different s01/ typ e, orientation, humidity level, exposure to
sunlig ht, proximity to trees, and so on. The precise matrix
of characteristics has been used to determine which variety
1s planted wh ere.
Hectares
62.3
Pinot Gris
76
34 8 - Merlot
76
170
V1ogn1er
74
16.5 - Verdejo
09
149
Chardonnay
05
Petit Verdot
11 4 - Cabernet S11uv1gnon 04
- Caladoc
11 0 - Vermentino
01
- P1not No1r
97-Garnret
01
- Petit Manseng
89

analysis (see graphic below left) Only 20 years ago, California's
vine boffins talked of nothing but climate. But with more
experience, growers all over the world are now delving deep
into soil types, and soil pits. Fertility of the soil and its water
holding capacity are key to the likely quality ofwine produced
there and even the choice ofvine-training system. Too much
nitrogen (a common ingredient in fertilizers and manure) can
result in over-vigorous vines that put all their energy into
growing leaves rather than ripening grapes. Bunches are then
dangerously shaded by a dark, heavy canopy of leaves and
shoots. Too much vigour is common on very fe rtile soils,
typically relatively young soils such as those in New Zealand
and on the ftoor ofthe Napa Valley. Vigour also varies
with the variety ofvine and rootstock. The soil should be
neither too acid nor too alkaline and have just enough organic
matter (the remains of other plants, and animals) and
such minerals as phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen.
Phosphorus (rarely lacking) is vital for photosynthesis.
Too much potassium can result inwines dangerously high
in pH and low in acidity.
Vineyard design
Once a vine-grower has chosen a site or cleared a vineyard for
replanting, the vineyard needs to be carefully designed. The
orientation ofthe rows (north-south to even up sunlight
exposure throughout the day or east-west to shade from the
midday sun), how best to train the vines, the height ofthe posts
(and, later, wires), and the number ofbuds to keep when pruning
are all important factors to bear in mind How far offthe ground
should the bunches ideallybe? On a hillside site, are terraces
needed? They are expensive to create and maintain, but allow
vine-rows to follow contour lines so that tractors and people can
move easily alongthem. In regions with heavy rainfall, potential
erosion is something to bear in mind.
Then comes one of the most important decisions of all: how
close to plant the vines, both between and within rows, based on
the vigour of the site and the sort ofcrop level the grower is
aiming for (see p.87 for more on yields in Bordeaux) . In climates
where it is frequentlyhot and dry, a lack ofwater can dictate
widely spaced traditional bushes and fewer than 1,000 vines per
hectare, which will result in natural
l
y low yields.
New Wo rld vineyards were once typically planted in warm or
hot regions, often on fe rtile virgin soil, risking an ove rsupply of
nutrients. Growers left wide spacing for tractorsbetween the
rows, and often between vines, resulting again in a vine density
ofjust over 1,000 vines per hectare, though for very different
reasons. This economized on plants, posts, wires, and labour, and
made cultivation and mechanical harvesting easy. But often the
price paid was excessive vigour, sprawling canopies burying the
fruit and most ofthe leaves needed for photosynthesis in deep
shade. Not only do such grapes not ripen properly, resulting in
wines that belie the climate with unattractively high acidity and
unripe tan
ni
ns, but the wood destined to carry tlie next year's
crop does not ripen either. The embryo buds on the cane need
exposure to the sun to make them fruitful. A dense canopy thus
starts a vicious spiral ofsmaller crops and more foliage year
by year. Liberal irrigation could result in economically viable
crops overall, but each vine would be required to ripen too
heavy a charge ofgrapes.
This stereotype, fortunately much rarer today, contrasts
markedlywith the traditional vineyards ofBordeaux and
Burgundy, where yields per hectare are generally much lower,
and yields per vine lower still. Here vines are often planted as
densely as 10,000 vines per hectare at intervals of3 ft (1 m) along
rows just 3 ft (1 m) apart (worked by tracteurs-enjambeurs that
CPllEATINGI A VINEYA PID 29
Cowhorns filled with fr esh manure are buried for the winter at
Chdteau Mazeyres m Pomerol, following strictly the principles
of b1odyn am1c viticulture. Once dug up in spring, the horn
man ure, known as preparation 500, is mixed with rainwater
and sprrzyed onto the soil
straddle the vines). Each vine is rigorously trained to remain
relatively small, with a strictly limited number ofbuds. Planting
and labour costs are much higher, but the grapes are given the
maximum chance to ripen. Result: better, more intensely
ftavoured wine.
Over the last few decades there has been considerable
progress in what is known as canopy management, based on
precision viticulture techniques and new vine-training systems,
designed to spread out and control the canopy ofeven the
most vigorous vines.
Organic and biodynamic
Over centuries of sometimes unconscious experimentation
in Europe, more or less ideal solutions have evolved to suit
local conditions, resulting in some ofthe world's most precious
vineyards and most universally admired wines. But the
individual grower's philosophy offarming is still crucial.
More and more growers are adopting organic or biodynamic
viticulture . Both approaches prohibit the use ofagrochemicals
and synthetic fertilizers, which may leave residues, although
limited amounts of copper sulphate-based sprays (Bordeaux
mixture) are allowed to control mildew - and often leave
residues of copper in the soil.
Biodynamic growers relyon compost and homeopathic
doses ofpreparations based mainly on specially treated manure
or plants to stimulate the health ofthe soil and the vine, and,
even more controversially, plan their work in the vineyard and
cellar according to the lunar calendar. Results can be impressive ,
even ifthe science behind it remains a mystery even to those
who practise it.
Vine-growing is, after all, like all farming. utterly dependent
on nature and local practicalities. Ofal
l
aspects ofwine
production, what happens in the vineyard is rightly recognized as
the single most important, and demanding. factor determining
exactly how wine tastes.

30 THE VINEYARD YEAR
The vineyard year, the annual cycle ofwork for the grower,
effectively starts with the end ofharvest as vine leaves turn
yellow or red perfect for photographers and the sap starts to
fall. The most important activityduringthe autumn takes place
indoors, in the cellar (see pp.32-35) as grapes are transformed
into wme and the new wine is transferred into whichever vessels
are chosen to age it in.
In the vineyard , once the sap has fallen and the canes are
completely dry from about late November in the northern
hemisphere, late May in the southern pruning can begin Its •
timing cal
l
s for cunning calculation . For early-budding varieties
in regions at risk from spring frost it maybe del iberately delayed
so that budbreak is also delayed. Producers in warmer regions
who want full ripeness without extended hang time on the vine
may deliberately prune earlier than their neighbours. Al l that is
certain is that pruning should happen during the winter when
the vine is dormant, building up reserves for the growing season
ahead, and thewood is dryand easy fo cut. Time for a fleece;
wintervineyards can be chilly.
The point of pruning is to limit the number ofbuds and hence
how many bunches a vine will bear. Most ofthe previous season's
growth is snipped off, often to be burnt in portable burners in the
vineyard (the prunings can also make a marvellous grill for a
steak). This is the moment when the shape and size of the vine
is decided The way the vine is pruned is largely determined by
exactly how (even whether) it will be tramed on wires during
the growing season. In some regions, vines are buried against
extreme winter cold (see p.18), or where winters are cold but not
vicious, they may be banked up with soil. Posts and wires can be
mended most easily now that they are fully exposed. Ifreplanting
is planned, it makes sense to dig out old vines while they are
dormant and to deep-plough the land, making any necessary
additions such as lime and compost.
Late winter and early spring are when things are quietest
in vineyard and cellar so this can be an ideal time for the
curious to go and see the harvest in the other hemisphere.
(This chronological contrastbetween the hemispheres led to
the flyingwinemaker phenomenon ofthe late 20th century: of
techmcally able, young, often Australian, oenologists cleaning
up wineries and winemaking techniques throughout Europe.
Today, the trans-hemispherical traffic in producers and ideas
is very much two -way.) Back home, a first ploughing of the
season, either by machine or, occasionally but increasingly,
by horse-drawn plough, usefully aerates the soil. Horses don't
compact the soil as tractors do and make prettier pictures
(see p.92). This is the time to prepare vineyard equipment for
the growing season ahead.
The sap rlHs
Thepanel opposite shows how in early springbudsstartto
burst out of the brown sheaths they have worn all winter and
vine-growers need to be vigilant until any risk of spring frost is
well past. It is nail biting time. On clear spnng nights, they are
out activating wind machines or lighting fires to circulate or
warm dangerously cold air.
The prov1s1on of nest boxes in Cor1son's vineyard m St Helena,
Napa Valley, encourages birds such as this western bluebird
to keep pests at bay without recourse to chemicals.
When spring comes, the vineyard turns from a patchwork of
blackstumps to a sea ofgreen shoots and leaves. As the canopy
grows it needs to be disciplined so that the vine is the right shape
and size to best ripen the grapes. Ve ryvigorous vines will need to
be trimmed Wire -trained vines need to be tied or corral
l
ed into
the wire framework ofthe trellis. This operation is even more
important after the floweringwhen the vine's canopy grows
fastest. In early sum
m
er, bunches may need to be carefully
exposed to light and the right amount ofleaves for ideal
photosynthesis trained aroundthem.
Important decisions duringthegrowingseason include which
form offungal or pest control to use, if any, whether to cultivate
between the rows or leave grass or other cover crops to grow, and
whether to ignore the sprawling shoots of sum
m
erortotrim
them off. Vine-growers also have to decide whether to "green
harvest" before or during ripeningto reduce the number of
bunches. An overladen vine strug
gl
es to ripen its crop.
In the late 20th century, agrochemicals were al
l
the rage.
Farmers would spray theirvines repeatedly to keep them
healthy. Ithad serious side-effects, though; it could poison
the soil - and certainlywasted money. This century more and
more growers are following organic or even more extreme
biodynamic practices, usingonly sulphur and the traditional
Bordeaux mixture oflime and copper sulphate, prefer
r
ing to rely
on more natural methods to control pests and diseases such as
predatory insects, birds, and pheromones. But, in particularly
damp seasons, it is a gritty grower who resists at least some
chemical aids. Cover crops rather than bare earth between vine
rows are increasingly popular. They can attract useful insects,
These Ries/mg grapes were all picked in Clemens Busch's
Marienburg vineyard on 18 October 2018, but illustrate nicely
the various stages of mcreasmg ripeness and, f'lnally, shrivel

reduce erosion in steeper vineyards, aerate the soil to encourage
microbes, minimize evaporation in dry regions, compete with
vines for available water in wet ones where there is a danger of
too dense a canopy, and are often ploughed into the soil to
improve its structure and the organic matter therein.
In hotter climates, a light leaf canopy may offer welcome
protection against sunburn. In some regions, hail nets are a
wise precaution.
In the old days, high summer was a time when vine-growers
could take a holiday but as harvest dates are generally earlier and
earlier, so is the most critical time ofthe grower's year, when
daily patrols ofthevineyard (and anxious checking of the weather
forecast; picking in the rain is not advised) are necessary to
monitor the health ofthe vines and ripeness ofthe grapes and
decide when they should be picked. Ripe grapes attract birds and
animals. Bird nets (see p.360) are an expensive chore, but they
can be vital. In parts of Central Italy, vineyards have to be fe nced
to keep out wild boar. Marauding kangaroos can be a problem in
Australia, baboons in South Africa.
The harveat
THI VINEYARD YEAR 31
Provided enough grapes have been saved from animals, fro11t,
and hail, now is the denouement of the whole year, the grape
harvest. AJs it becomes harder and harder to find, feed, and
legally employ human pickers, and a11 mechanical harvesters
become increasingly sophisticated, the majority ofgrapes, even
in some famous vineyards, are now picked by machine which
can be a boon where daytime temperatures favour night
harvesting (see p.353). One of most important tasks ofthe
vineyard year can be ensuring that an efficient, working machine
harvester is available.
Preparations for the harvest other than ensuring there
is enough tank or cask space to fe rment the year's crop in
comprise cleaning all the equipment inside and out, including
hosing down the plastic boxes into which virtuallyall grapes
grown in ambitiously run vineyards are picked today
Once the grapes have been picked and safely transported
to the grape recept10n, the focus for wine production moves to
the cellar.
LATE SUMMER I EARLY AUTUMN
FULL RIPENESS
EARLY SPRING
BUDS DEVELOP
Measuring ripeness - and in particular deciding what
constitutes perfect ripeness - has been the foc us of much
recent research. Dark- skinned varieties should
As early as March m Northern Europe and September in the
southern hemisphere, whenever temperat ures reac h
about 50°F (10°C), the buds left after winter
pruning start to swell and the first signs of
green can be seen emerging from the
gnarled wood .
have uniformly deep-coloured skins, stems
and stalks should start to lignify (turn
woody), and grape seeds should
show no sign of green ness.
SUMMER
VERAISON
The place ofsuch buds as
escape frost and ram 1s
taken by hard , green
baby grapes in June/
December. These
grapes swell during the
summer, and in
August/February
undergo veraison,
whereby they soften
and turn reddish or
yellow. The ripening
process begins and
sugars start to build
rapidly inside the grape
while ac id levels fall.
\
10-14 DAYS LATER.••
FLOWERING EFFECTS
The vi ne
through the
growing
season
I
10 DAYS LATER•••
LEAVES SEPARATE
Within 10 days of
budbreak, leaves start
to separate fr om
thebud and
embryonict endrils
begin to be v1s1ble. At
this stage they are all
too vulnerable to fr ost,
which can stri ke as
late as mid-May or
mid-November in
cooler districts of the
northern and southern
hemispheres, respectively
Late pruning of the vine
can delay b u dbreak.
LATE SPR ING I EARLY SUMMER
FLO WERING BEGINS
The size ofthe eventual crop depends
Between 6 and 13 weeks after budbreak ,
on the success of pollinat i on. Poor weather
the crucial flowering of the vine begins with the
during the 10- to 14-day flowering can result m
emergence of tiny caps of fu sed petals These look
coulure, whereby the stalks of an excessive number
very like miniature versions of the grapes that will be
ofvery small berries shrivel, causing them to drop off, and �-
--
--
--
--
-
formed here once the caps fall, ex posing the stigmas so that
also m 1llerandage, or "hen and c hicken" · diffe rent - s i zed
they can be fertilized by pollen to create the berries ,
berries on the same bunch
the so-called "fruit set"

32 HOW TO MAKE WINE
In the vineyard, nature is ultimately in charge; man takes over in
the winery or cellar. Winemaking consists ofa series ofdecisions
dictated by the grapes and their condition, and by the style of
wine the winemaker has set his or her heart on or has been asked
to produce. The diagrams below and on pp.34 35 respectively
show the steps involved in making a relatively inexpensive
unoaked white and a high-quality, traditionally made, bar
re
l­
aged red wine.
Harvesting the grapes
The first and possibly most important decision is when to pick.
The winemaker should have been monitoringthe sugar and acid
levels in the grapes and their general health, appearance, and
flavour in the weeks leading up to harvest
Harvest date decisions are guided by the weather forecast,
especially ifrain is predicted. Some varieties are much more
sensitive than others to the exact date ofharvest Merlot, for
example, can easily lose a certain liveliness ifkept too long on the
vine, whereas Cabernet Sauvignon is much more tolerant ofa few
extra days. If the grapes are already suffering from fungal disease
(see p.27), rain will exacerbate it so it may be best to pick the
grapes just slightly less ripe than ideal. White wine is much more
forgiving ofa few rotten grapes than red, in which the colour is
rapidly lost and the wine tainted by a mouldytaste.
The winemaker and the head ofthe picking team also have to
decide at what time ofday to pick. In hot climates, grapes are
generally picked either at night (easier by machine, with big
spotlights - see p.353) or very early in the morning in order to
deliver the grapes to the winery as cool as possible, typical
l
y-ifthe
winemaker aspires to quality in shallow, stackable crates so that
the grapes are not crushed before arriving at the winery. Most of
the finest wines are still picked by hand, no matter how expensive
and elusive the pickers, because they can both snip whole bunches
offthe vine (machines shake offthe berries) and also make
intelligent decisions about which fruit to pick. But the speed of
today's increasingly gentle machines, some with the capacity to
sort the fruit, can be a boon in a heatwave or ifrain threatens.
How mass-produced white wi ne is made
Once the grapes arrive at the winery, they may he deliberately
chilled some hot-climate wineries even have cold. ro
o
ms where
grapes can be kept until a fe rmentation vat is available. Vw ita
top-quality winery in any climate today and you wil
l
proudly
be shown its "triage", its way ofsorting perfect grapes from
damaged ones or MOG (material other than grap es). It used to be
sharp-eyed workers at sorting tables. But technologyhas many
answers, from floating grapes in liquid to sortby density, to an
optical sorter comprising a computerized camera plus airjets
that blow away debris and unripe, raisined, or unhealthy berries
after destemming. Mechanical crushing then releases the juice,
which is 70-80% water, and has largely replaced the human foot
(still used for some high-quality port and by truly devoted
small-scale wine producers) .
How much oxygen?
Most white wine grapes are destemmed beforethey are pressed
because stems can be astringent and would spoil a light, aromatic
wine. For some full-bodied white wines, however, and most
top-quality sparkling and sweet white wine, the winemaker may
choose to put whole bunches into the press, stems and all, and
use only the "free-run" juice that drains out, avoiding the
extraction ofpotentially harsh phenolics from the skins. The
stems can also help drain the juice from the skins.
For white wines, winemakers must decide whether to protect
thejuice as much as possible from oxygen, preserving every
ounce of fresh fruit flavour, by preventing oxidation and stun
ning
ambient yeasts at the start with added sulphur dioxide, complete
destemming, and keeping everything super-cool. Or they can
adopt deliberately oxidative techniques, exposingthe grapes to
oxygen and aiming for secondary, more complex flavours, and in
some instances pre-empting subsequent oxidation ofphenolics,
the dreaded "premature oxidation".
Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and other aromatic varieties
are usuallyvinified protectively, while most high-quality
Chardonnay, includingwhite burgundy, is made oxidatively.
Winemakers may also allow their grapes a period ofdeliberate
This diagram shows an inexpens ive white wine made in a well- equipped winery in a warm region.
0 The grapes are picked
by machine and loaded on
to a truck, which bac ks up
to the winery and fills the
hopper with bunches of
grapes, and usually some
MOG (mate rial other
than grapes, such as
leaves) as we ll.
I
J,
f) The hopper sc rew fe eds the grapes into the
crusher-destemmer, wherethey are crush d by the
rollers A rotat ing cylinder perforated with holes big
enough to allow grapes, but not large, potentially
astringent stem fragments or leav s, to pass
through, then destems th grapes
@ The re sulting mixture of crushed
grapes and pulp may be pumped
through a heat exchanger to cool
it down. This slows the oxidation
process, helping to prevent the loss
of flavour and too early a start to the
ferme n t at ion. Sulphur dioxide 1s
usually added for the same reason.
() The grap pulp 1s pump d into th pn umat1c press nd
th rubber membrane 1s slowly I nflat ed, p r e sing the pulp
against the perforat d £.l lnle s steel cylind r but keepm
the pips whole so as not to r I ase their bitter 011<> Th
Juice 1s coll cted in the lower t ray, from which tt 1 s pump d
to cooled st in! ss steel settling t nks

.
•
-:
.
•
.
.
"skin contact" not as exciting as it sound1, but a few hours either
inthepress before itis turned on or in a holdingtank,during
which further flavour will be leached into the "must" (the pulpy
mixture between grape juice and wine) from the skins. Ifthe
skill8 are allowed contact with juice for white wine for too long,
however, they tend to impart astringency - which is whygrapes
for most white wine are pressed before fermentation, unlike red
wine grapes whose skins are needed forcolour and tannin. But an
increasing number ofwinemakers are experimentingwith
deliberate skin contact throughout andbeyond fe rmentation for
white wine grapes, resulting in deep-coloured, so-called orange,
or amber, wines that are intentionally astringent, highly
distinctive, and good matches for certain foods.
A gentle press
Presses used for thevast majorityofwhite wines are designed to
squeeze out thejuice as gently as possible, withoutbreakingthe
pips orextracting astringency from the skins. Pneumatic presses
are the gentlest and the most common. Winemakers separate
different portions ofjuice from the press, the earliest being the
least astringent.
At this stage, white wines made without contact with oxygen
may be clarified - usually by letting the solids settle to the bottom
ofaholdingtankandthen run
n
ing offthe clear juice into the
fermentation tank or, for basic wines, by using a flotation tank
in which a stream ofbubbles carries the solids to the top. It is
important at this stage that fermentation still hasn't started,
which is why low temperatures are crucial, often accompanied
by smal
l
additions ofsulphites.
Oxidatively made whites, however, are treated more like reds.
Redwine grapes are usuallydestemmed and crushed, although
winemakers are experimenting more and more with fermenting
whole bunches, as has been traditional in Burgundy. But ifthese
stems are not ripe, the wine may taste horribly tough. Some
winemakers deliberately give red wine grapes a "cold soak", adding
sulphites to the grapes and chilling them for up to a week to delay
fermentation, extracting colour and primary fruit flavours.
0 The now much cleaner grape
juice is pumped into temperatu re­
controlled stai nless steel fe rmentation
tanks. The juice is inoculated with a
strain of specially selected cultured
yeast. The temperature is kept low for
inexpensive white wines, usually between
54 and 63°F (12 and 17°C) to preserve
fresh, fr uity aromas. However, the
higher the temperature, the faster
the fe rmentation and the sooner
the fe rmentation tank can be used
for another batch ofjuice. The
length of the fermentation can
varyfrom a few days to a month,
The fe rmentation mlracle
HOW TO MAKll WINI U
The winemaker then has to make decisions about fe rmentation,
the transformation of sweet grape juice mto much drier, more
complex-flavoured wine. Jfyeut (naturally present in the air
and on grapeskina or added) is put into contact with grape
sugars, it converts them into alcohol, heat, and carbon dioxide.
The riper the grapes, the higher the sugar level, the potentially
stronger the resulting wine. Fermentation vats naturally warm
up as the process gets under way, so in warmer climates they
need to be cooled. Too hot a fermentation boils offprecious
flavour compounds. The gas given offmakes a winery a heady
!Qld dangerous place at harvest time. The smell is an
intoxicating mixture of carbon dioxide, grapes, and alcohol,
especially ifthe fermentation vats are open-topped, as for many
traditional
l
y made red wines. Too much carbon dioxide can be
suffocating. Most white wines are fe rmented in sealed vats to
protect the must from damaging oxidation and to avoid browning.
An open vat ofred must is protected both by the carbon dioxide
and by the phenolic compounds in the skins.
Ye asts and their behaviour continue to provoke debate: whether
to rely on naturally occur
ri
ngyeasts or choose so-cal
l
ed cultured
ones selected and grown in a lab. In new wine regions there may
be no choice; wine yeasts need time to build up a population and
in the earlyyears the only indigenous strains available might be
harmful rather than benevolent With admittedly an increasing
number ofexceptions, most wines are therefore made by adding
speciallycultured yeast to the must. (Once one vat has started, the
addition offermenting must from it will kick-start a second.)
Cultured yeasts behave predictably. Particularly powerful
strains can be chosen for high-sugar musts, those which
encourage sediment to coagulate may be useful for sparkling
wines. The choice ofcultured yeasts can also have a significant
influence on the flavour ofthe wine: enhancing particular
aromas, for example. Traditionalists, however, prefer to leave
everything to ambient yeasts, believing they add more interest
to thewine's flavour, even if they are less predictable. It is not
going too far to regard them as an aspect of terroir, and indeed
0 All commercial wines are then Altered to
remove any potentially harmful bacteria, or yeast
cells to avo id fu rther fe rmentation 1fthe wine
contains any re sidual sugar. They may be pumped
through a cross-flow membrane Alter, or a sheet
Alter, to re move any particles held in s u s p ension.
0 In the settling
tanks the juice may
be covered with a
blanket of inert gas
such as carbon
dioxide to prevent
oxidation. Special
enzymes may be
ad ded to encourage
some of the
suspended solids to
settle out of the
liquid after about 24
hours in the tan ks.
the carbon dioxide given off
escaping through
a valve at
the top.
@ The wine is racked off
• the lees, becoming even
cleaner, and put into
holding tanks protected
from oxygen . The wine
is then stored at a low
tem perature until req uired
toAllanordersoasto
keep it as fresh as possible.
It may have to be blended.
It Is then cold-stabilized -
chilled to almost 32°F
(0°C) to precipitate
tartrate crystals - and
probably fine d .
0Thestar-bright
wine is then bottled
and labelled by a
high- s peed bottling line
just before being
s hippe d , m1nim1zing
storage costs.
•

34 HOW TO MAKE WINE
proprietors can be very proprietorial about th em, having them
cultured for future use once theyhave isolated the best strains.
Helplng fe rmentation
The winemaker's nightmare is a "stuck fermentation", when
fermentation stops before all the sugar has been converted into
alcohol, leaving a vulnerable mixture that can all too easily fall
prey to oxidation and nasty microbes. The level ofalcohol in a
finished wine is an effective weapon against this.
The exact pace of a red wine fermentation is critical to the
sort ofwine that results . The warmer the fermentation (up to
the dangerous flavour-evaporation limit), the more flavour and
colour will be extracted. Long, cool fermentations tend to result
in light, fruity wines, but ifa fermentation is too short and hot,
the wine will also be low in body and flavour. The temperature
rises as it ferments, but is generallybetween about 72 and 86°F
(22 and 30°C) for full-bodied red wines, and cooler, sometimes
as lowas 54°F (12"C), for aromatic white wines.
To extract tan
nins
, flavour, and colour from the grape skins
for red wine, the cap and the must need to be encouragedto
commune with each other. This is generally done either by
pumpingthe must over the cap or by physically punchingit
down into the liquid, via an array ofmechanical and
computerized ways of submerging the cap or by hand. The
science ofthis process, and any maceration after fermentation
is finished designed to extract and soften tannins, has become
extremely exact. Together with more precise harvest dates, it is
a key factor in how much smoother and more palatable many
young red wines are today.
Fashions in fermentation vessels come and go. Stainless steel
is easy to clean and control but some winemakers prefer wood,
How top- quality red wine is made
This diagram shows how a typical fine red wine is made in the most trad 1t1onal way possible .
•
m A proportion of bunches,
from 0 to 100%, goes to a
crusher-destemmer, where the
stems, or stalks, are removed
and most of the grapes
are c rushed .
The settings
concrete, or even clay. Size and shape vary enormously, too, from
huge tanks to amphorae or egg-shaped containers.
Gentle handling ofthe grapes, must, and wine is generally
considered to be a factor in wine quality. Where money is no object,
or ifa winery is conveniently built into a hil
l
side, winery design and
equipment harness the force of gravity to avoid w;ing pumps.
Llttle adjustments
It is at the fermentation stage, red or white, that the winemaker
decides whether or not to add or remove acid or add sugar, or
sometimes concentrated grape must. Frenchwinemakers, apart
fromthose in the far south, have been addingsugar to fermentation
vats to increase the alcohol content (not sweetness) ofthe final
wine for 200 years, ever since this process, chaptalization, was
proposed by Napoleon's agriculture minister Jean-Antoine
Chaptal. TheAOC laws generally restrictsuch "enrichment" to the
equivalent ofno more than an additional 2% ofalcohol. In practice,
thankstowarmersum
m
ers, better canopy management (se
e
p.29)
and anti -rot strategies, growers are now able to pick grapes riper
and riper so that less and less additional sugar is needed, though
it is sometimes added simply to prolong fermentation.
Winemakers may also decide to run offa portion ofjuice from
the red wine fermentation vat to improve the ratio offtavour- and
colour-filled skins to juice. This practice, known as saignee in
France, is sometimes replaced by more mechanical manipulation
such as reverse osmosis.
Wm emakers in warm climates routinelyadd (or "adjust") acidity
to musts from grapes with sugar levels only dreamt ofin northern
Europe, but whose natural acidity is unappetizingly low. Tartaric
acid, grapes' natural acid, is the acid of choice for "acidification",
which is becoming more common in Europe as summers warm up.
0 The grape must, including the all-important
skins for colour, flavour, and tannin, is then
pumped into a fe rmenter (oak, open-topped here),
which may also be closed and made of stainless
steel, concrete, clay, oak, or even slate. Here
yeasts present on the skins and in the atmosphere
(or added) will slowly set in motion the alcoholic
fe rmentation. Some winemakers cool the must
before fe rmentation to give some extra skin­
contact time; others heat the must immediately
to encourage the alcoholic fermentation.
-
=
=
0 Hand-cut
bunches of grapes
are ge ntly
transferred from
small containers,
designed to
prevent the grapes
be ing crushed in
transit fr om vine
to winery, onto a
sorting table
can be adj usted
accord ing to how
many stems and
whole grapes are
l
____,.
)
f) Any unripe,
overripe, d a maged,
or mouldy grapes
and any other
matter 1s re moved
either by hand or
by an el ctronic
optical sort er
-
�
·
•.,
l�
'
•
� For more aromatic grapes such as Pinot N a i r,
some or all of the stems may be retai ned at this
stage to ac centuate the aromas, add a different
type of ta nnin, and increase freshn ss These
bunches go straight into the fermenter
)
0 Sugar levels start to fallas tho lev I of alcohol
rises and t h e carbon d1ox1de g1v<"n off push up
the grape skins and pulp to fo rm cap wh1c11 1s
regu larly e1th r plunged down m ch nirally or
manually, or b1·okcn up by pumping th mu t ov
1ttopr v nt1tfromdryingout

There is another way winemakers can inftuence the acidity.
Alcoholic fe nnentation is often followed bymalolactic conversion,
in which the grapes' harsher malic (appley) acids are converted Into
softer, lactic (milky) acids and carbon dioxide. Understanding and
mastery ofle malo, sometimes warming the wine or the cellar
and 'or adding cultured lactic acid bacteria, was a key factor in
the mid 20th century In makmg red wines drinkable youngerby
lowering the overall acidity and adding some extra flavours.
But those extra flavours may not be desirable in an aromatic,
protectively made white wine. Deliberately suppressing the malo
(by temperature control, sulphite addition, or filtering the
necessary bacteria out ofthe wine), makes the wine taste crisper.
In practice, malolactic conversion is generally encouraged in
most good-quality Chardonnay to add texture and flavour, and
in wanner climates it is compensated for by adding acidity.
Malolactic conversion is good for red wine, and in recentyears
a fashion has emerged for conducting it not in large tanks, but in
individual bar
r
els. This is much more labour-intensive and is
warranted onlyforhigh-quality wines, but the short- term result
at least is a perceptibly smoother, more seductive texture, a
characteristic that some wine tasters have come to associate with
quality. Increasingly, therefore, winemakers who wish their
wines to show well in youth run red wine out ofthe fe rmentation
vatjust before the end offermentation into barrels, where it wil
l
finish its alcoholic fermentation and then its malo.
A controversial issue, particularly in warm climates such as
California and parts ofAustralia, is high alcohol levels in wine,
partly the result ofclimate change but also of picking grapes later
to get more flavour and riper tannins. As with must concentration,
various mechanical methods, based on reverse osmosis,
evaporation, or low-temperature distil
l
ation, maybe used to
@ The solids left at the
bottom of the fe rmentation
vat are transferred to a press
-
in this case a traditional
basket press, where the
"press wine" is squeezed
out and collected below.
6D This press wine 1s
much more tannic,
and in cooler regions
usually kept separate.
In warmer ones it is
blended immed iately
to ad d val uable
struc ture.
HOW TO MAKI'. WINI ti
reduce the alcohol in the finished wine. However, some producers
prefer alternative strategies in the vineyard to make more
balanced raw material to begin with.
While some top-end red wines finish their alcoholic fe rmentation
in barrel, fermenting In barrel has become de rigueur for many
full-bodied whites with aspirations to a high price.
Fllterlnl and bottlln1
However a wine is matured after fermentation, 1t will have to be
bottled. Before a wine is subjected to this often rather bru tal
process, the winemaker has to be sure it is stable: that it does not
contain anypotentially dangerous microbes and will not do
anything inconvenient ifsubjected to extreme temperatures. It
must be clarified, for the wine is still likely to be cloudier than the
consumer has come to expect. Inexpensive white wines are often
therefore put into a tank and fiercely chilled so that any tartaric
acid salts that remain in solution are precipitated before bottling
and won't reappear as (completely harmless but worrying­
looking) crystals in the bottle later on.
Many wines are fined and filtered in some way so as to remove
solid particles including microbes that might spoil the wine, or
yeast cells that could lead to further fermentation. Although
there is a growing interest in so-called "natural wines" with
minimal or no additions, most wines contain small amounts of
sulphites to keep them fresh. "Contains sulphites" must be
declared on the wine label. Such is the no-risk culture.
Filtration is a hotly debated subject among wine folk.
Overdone, it can remove flavour and the potential for ageing;
underdone, it can leave the wine prey to harmful microbes and
further fe rmentation, particularly ifthe bottle gets too warm
Time and settling are the most natural ways of clarifying wine
l
CD Evaporation means that
these barrels will have to be
topped up, and the wine may be
"racked" off its sed iment, the
lees, into a new barrel to aerate
1t and prevent the build- up of
harmful compounds, although
contact with healthy lees can
be b eneficial.
0 After the alcoholic
fe rmentat ion is over, some
winemakers allow an extended
period of macerat ion to extract
even more phenolics fro m the
skins . Others transfer the wine
into small oak barrels before all
the sugar has been fermented
into alcohol. In either case, the
harsh malic acid Is deliberat ely
converted into softer lactic ac id
@ The wine is then aged in oak
barrels fo r up to 18 months,
during which it naturally
stabilizes and clarifies, the
tannins soften, and more
complex flavours devel op.
@ The wine may be blended and will also
probably be fined - clarified by ad ding a
fining age nt that attracts any suspended
sol ids - and lightly filtered to ensure that
it is microbiolog1cally stable. Some wines
spend several months in the tank before
they are bottled
_.
..
.
..
..
.
_.
..
.
..
..
.
_.
..
.
..
..
.
J
6) After carefu l bottling the wine 1s laid down
in bins and stored horizontally to keep corks
dam p , and kept for fu rther ageing; 1t 1s labelled
and capsuled JUSt before despatch

31 WHY OAK?
Wine andoak have been married since the Gauls invented the
barrel. Oak grows everywhere in France; available, workable,
durable, and ifyou store your wine in it, often beneficial to its
taste. There are more and more experiments with acacia,
chestnut, and other sorts ofwood, clay, concrete, and various
variations on earthenware amphorae. But for centuries oak has
been the favourite. Its more recently appreciated attributes are
that oak flavours have a natural affinity for those ofwine. Its
physical properties are unparalleled for adding oak tannins that
stabilize the tannins and softening the texture of anywell-maae
wine. Long maturation in oak also gently clarifies the wine.
Fermenting a white wine in barrel makes the wine smoother
in texture yet deeper in flavour. Some winemakers aim to give
their wine a creamier texture by stirring the lees in the barrel,
although too much stir
rin
g can result in a milky character.
On the other hand, not stirring the lees can accentuate the
"struck-match" or flinty characterswhich some winemakers
seek. White wines maybe barrel-aged for as few as three
months to take up just a little oak flavour.
Serious red wines are usually matured for longer: up to
18 months or more. The length of time in the barrel does not
necessarily equate to more oak flavour. To separate the new wine
from the heavier, thicker yeast lees (the so-called gross lees), the
wine is generally "racked" into a clean barrel quite soon after
fe rmentation and possibly several times thereafter. Many
producers nowadays prefer to leave their wines on the lees
undisturbed, but the lees must be pristine. Otherwise nasty
odours related to sulphur compounds can result Racking also
aerates the wine, softening its tan
nins
.
Some wine is always lost by evaporation. "Ullage", the
resulting space, gives the wine access to potentially harmful
oxygen, so barrels need regular topping up to prevent oxidation
and possible microbial problems. The winemaker's job during
barrel maturation is regularlyto taste the contents of each
barrel, and to judge whether and when the wine should be
racked, when it is ready for bottling. Racking, topping up, and
cleaning barrels are familiar tasks for "cellar rats", as winery
interns are often known .
An alternative to bar
r
el-ageing, and occasionally a
supplement, is to add tiny, measured doses ofoxygen to a wine
in tank orbarrel While this "micro-oxygenation" is a way of
imitatingthe way barrels aerate wine, there are simpler, cheaper
methods : adding oak chips, staves, even oak essence by the
unscrupulous, can be used to replicate the flavour effect of
barrels without their considerable cost. They may al
l
o improve
texture and make the colour more stable.
Where oak comas fro m
The size and age ofthe bar
r
el are important factors. The older or
(fashionably) larger thebarrel, theless oak flavour is imparted.
(The brand-new barrels used for wines at the top ofthe range
· may be used afterwards for less grand wines.) Other
determinants are the length oftime in oak; how the bar
r
el was
"toasted" (the term for bending the staves over an oak-chip fire:
a heavily toasted barrel will add fewer wood tannins, but more
spicy or roasted flavours) ; how well or long the oak was seasoned
(stacked in the open to lose its harshness) or even - to save time
- kiln-dried; and crucially the provenance ofthe oak.
American oak can be attractively sweet with a vanil
l
a note.
Baltic oak was admired at the end ofthe 19th century for its
slow-grown. tight grain. Often slightly spicy Eastern European
oaks are enjoying a revival, but French oak is still general
l
y
revered above all others - not least because French forests have
been so well managed for centuries. The growth cycle for the
best oaks has been reduced from about 180 years to much less;
few tasters would notice.
Oak forests have their own terroir, affecting the growth
patterns and qualities ofthe trees. Limousin is wide-grained,
tan
ni
c, and generally more suitable forbrandy thanwine. The
oaks ofTron�ais, a state-owned forest ofabout 25,000 acres
(10,000 ha) in the Al
l
ier departement, grow so slowly on poor
soil that thewood is tight-grained and excellent for wine,
imparting aromatic compounds without excess. Vo sges oak is
similar, light in colour and preferred by some winemakers.
Others simply askfor oak from "le Centre" . There may also be
different growing conditions within each forest Winemakers
tend to have a range offavourite coopers rather than sticking to
one source. Names such as Chassin, Demptos, Fran�ois Freres,
Radoux, Seguin-Moreau, and Taransaud are seen on barrel­
ends round the whole wine world.
The last vital contact most fine wines have with oak is their
contact with the cork.
The cellars ofArnaud Ente
below the village of Meursault
show clearly how Burgundians
are now varying the size of
barrels they use, typically
adding larger ones than the
trad1t1onal 228-lltre piece.

Oxygen can rum wme; it must be kept out for which, ofcourse,
thebottle ls a much better option than the barrel. When bottles
were first widely used, m the 17th century, the only readyway
to stopper them was with a plug of oak bark; a cork. Ancient
technology it may be, but people are still trying to beat it.
Corks are cylinders punched out ofthick strips ofbark of
the long-lived cork oak. TheAlentejo is home to the greatest
concentration ofcork forests and the dominant cork suppliers
are Portuguese. But there are problems. In the late 20th century,
the quality of cork seriously declined, perhaps because trees
were being stripped too often. The incidence of cork taint rose
alarmingly. The mouldy smell associated with the compound
knownas TCA (trichloroanisole) can develop to varying
degrees in a wine stoppered with a cork that has come into
contact with both chlorine and mould. In high concentrations
it is obviously the fault ofthe cork supplier, but at lower levels
TCA and associated compounds simply rob the wine ofsome
ofits fruit and charm, which can eas ily be blamed on the wine
and its producer.
As vastly more wine is sold in a bottle nowadays, and
huge quantities ofcork are needed, the search for alternatives is
intense. Producers in Australia and NewZealand wholeheartedly
adopted screw caps, because they can guarantee TCA-free wine
(and do not require a corkscrew). The first generation ofscrew
caps were too airtight, but nowadays wine producers can
choose the amount ofoxygen allowed in by the liner in the top.
Research continues.
Many - probably most - wine-drinkers, though, still revere
corks. They like the ritual with the corkscrew and believe, rightly
or wrongly, that corks have a unique role in allowing wine to
mature. Besides, a screw cap stil
l
feels like a banal way of opening
a valuable bottle.
Synthetic corks, usual
l
y made ofplastic but now sometimes
plant-based materials, are a partial answer, particularly for
New Wo rld producers, and their quality has improved. They
come in dif
f
erent styles and quality levels, and presumably
appeal to wine drinkers who want to continue the cork-pulling
ritual without any risk ofcork taint. Synthetic corks are not easy
to push back in the bottle, however; theylack the unique elasticity
that makes natural cork such an effective Jong-term seal.
Vinolokglass stoppers are one alternative . Diam closures are
another: effectively artificial corks made from specially treated
milled cork bound together with food-grade microspheres. Diam
is certainly reliable; champagne-makers approve of it.
All this competition has spurred cork suppliers to invest
in upgrading research and development and quality control.
The incidence of cork taint is now much lower, and natural corks
that are guaranteed practically TCA-free are offered by some
suppliers - at a price.
Types of stoppers
Champagne
cork
Regular
cork
Agglom rate
cork
STOPPIE:RINQ WINE 37
Cork production 1s stlfl very trad1t1onal. A mule carries strips
of bark cut fr om cork oaks in the Parque Natural de los
Alcornocales m Andalucia, southern Spam - although Portugal
is the principal source ofboth cork bark and wme corks
Wine producers at all quality levels have been quietly
experimenting with screw caps, but few at the top ofthe tree are
prepared to risk damaging their image; screw caps and luxury are
still some distance apart, however hard designers work to close
the gap. Even some oftheAustralians who eagerly took to screw
caps are having second thoughts now that they are selling so
much of their wine to the cork-loving Chinese.
Synthetic
cork
Screw cap
Vinolok

38 WINE AND TIME
�
-a
.!
!
..
.
0
""
c
�
�"
It is a popular myth that all wine improves with age. One ofwine's
most magicalproperties is indeed that some ofit is capable of
evolving and improving for decades, and very occasionally
centunes. But the great majority ofwine made today is readyto
drink within a year or less ofbeing bottled, and some wines are
best drunk straight offthe bottling line.
Almost any inexpensive wine, especially whites and roses, is at
its best young, before the fruit starts to fade. This is also true of
many light-bodied, low-tannin reds; those made from Gamay
(Beaujolais, for example), Cinsault, Dolcetto, Lambrusco,
Domfelder, Zweigelt, and some ofthe simpler Pinot Noirs. And
very few roses are designed to age. They are best when fresh and
fruity. As a general rule, the more expensive a wine, the longer it
is designed to be aged. Rare exceptions (such as Condrieu and
other fine Viogniers) prove the rule. Surprisingly, good
champagne and other top-quality sparkling wines keep we ll.
They are generally readyto drink straight offthe shelf, but a year
or two more in bottlecan deepen their flavour.
It is a quandary. Most ofthe great white wines and practically
all the best reds are sold long before they are ready to drink.
Their qualities only emerge with time. Yo ung, they contain an
unresolved complex of acids and sugars, minerals and pigments,
tan
nins
, and all sorts offlavour compounds. Good wines have
more ofthese things than ordinary wines, and great wines more
than good wines. But it takes time for their primary grape­
derived aromas, and secondary ones offe rmentation and oak, to
interact, to resolve themselves into a harmonious whole, and for
the distinct scent of maturity, known as the "bouquet", to form .
Time, and the action of small amounts of oxygen, gradually make
wine mature. There is enough oxygen in the headspace between
the liquid and the cork and dissolved in the bottle to enable an
ageing process lasting for years.
A young fine red wine goes into bottle as a mix oftannins,
pigments, flavour compounds (these three known collectively as
"phenolics"), and the more complex compounds formed between
them. In the bottle, tannins continue to mteract with pigments
and acids to form new compounds and larger molecules, which
How wi ne ages
Commercial Chardonnay
- Commercial Cabernet Sauv1gnon
- German Riesling
- Bordeaux classed growth
- Vintage port
0t"'-
-�-,.�
�-,.-'
'-
-�,-
--�-
-.
.�
�.
..
..
.-
-�
�-r-�-
-.�
�-.-�
�-.
.-�-
-'
0
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
Age (years)
Compare and contrast quality levels and ageing ability in these very
approxi mate age ing p atterns . Fine red wines such as Bordeaux classed
growths ofte n go through a surly stage somewhere around five years old,
when th first flush of fruity youth has been lost, but before the harsh
ph nol1cs have been prec 1p1tated as sediment
20
are eventually precipitated as sediment. As it ages, then, a fine
red wine loses colour and astringency, but gains complexity and
sediment In fact, the colour ofa bottle ofwine held up to the light
givesagood clue u tohowmature itis: thepaler, the more mature.
Ageing whites
The equivalent process in white wines, which have a much
lower charge ofphenolics, is less well understo
od,
but gradual
oxidation turns the phenolics gold and eventually brown.
Primary and secondary fruity and "winey" aromas and crisp
. acids mellow into honeyed, nutty, or savoury nuances. If the
principal preservative ofred wine is tannin, of most whites it
seems to be acidity. White wines with sufficient acidity (and
enough substance to balance it) will mature as long as reds - or in
the case of some botrytized sweet whites, top-quality Sauternes,
German Rieslings, Tokaj is, and Loire Chenin Blancs (al
l
high in
acidity), even longer.
"When will it be at its best?" is a question often asked, but
hard to answer. Sometimes the best answer is "tonight". The
inconvenient truth is that even its maker can only offer an
estimate, and the answer can become clear only after the wine
has started to decline. It loses fruit and flavour; the acidity, or
sometimes tan
n
ins, starts to dominate. Itmaystill be interesting,
but its harmony is gone. Al
l
that is predictable about fine wine is
its unpredictability.
Those who buy wine by the dozen and monitor its progress
year by year, bottle by bottle, often find that it seems wonderful
l
y
opulent inyouth, then goes through a sullen, dumb stage (when
complex compounds are busy forming) before emerging as an
even finerwine afterwards. White Rhone wines are particularly
prone to an uncommunicative teenage period. Don't lose faith.
It is often said (and with truth) there are no great wines, only
great bottles. Bottle variation, even ofdifferent bottles from the
same case, is a common phenomenon. The case may have been
filled with bottles from different lots (many bottles nowadays
have lot numbers marked on the glass), which were stored in
different conditions, or even from different bar
r
els or, as is
sometimes said in half-jest, bottledbefore and afterthe bottlers'
lunch -break. Bottles often vary because the corks have allowed
varying amounts ofoxygen in, or because they are affected to
different degrees by some sort of taint. The commonest is TCA
(see p.37) . An unstained, uniform cork in a mature wine is the
best sign; one stained red, where the wine has crept up the side
to stain it, can sometimes mean trouble. But often there is no
rational explanation: just further proofthat wine is a living,
capricious entity.
There are wide differences in ageability, for instance,
between different vintages ofthe same wine . Red grapes with
thick skins, typically the product of a dry year, are likely to age
longer than those from wet years, whose skin-to-pulp ratio in
the swollen berries is much lower. White wines grown in a cool
year are likely to need longer, before their acidityseems to
mellow to an acceptable level On fact, the acid level , and
corresponding intensity of acid (pH), remain constant; the
increasingly complex compounds may distract from the acidity
you experience.)
Another factor quite apart from storage conditions, which
are discussedbelow is the size ofbottle. The amount of
headspacebetween wine and cork is usually constant no
matter what size the bottle, which means that there 1s twice as
much oxygen per volume of wine in a half·bottle as in a bottle,
and only half as much m a magnum. The ageing effect of that
oxygen is therefore much fas ter In a half bottle and much
slower In larger bottles. This is why halves seem to mature so
rapidly and why collectors will pay a premium for larl(e bottle

si zes. The downside is the potential disaster of one bad cork
spoiling a greater vol ume ofwi ne.
Stately ageing is deemed the best, but, in general terms, it is
possible to saywhich sorts ofwine are most worthy ofageing, or
"laying down" as English parlance has it. In very approximately
descending order ofpotential life in bottle for red wines, to take
some obvious candidates for the cellar, are we ll-made examples
ofvintage port, Hermitage, classed-growth claret, Bairrada,
Madiran, Barolo, Barbaresco, Aglianico, Brunello di Montalcino,
Cote-Rotie, fine red burgundy, Dao, Chateauneuf-du- Pape,
Chianti Classico Riserva, Georgian Saperavi, Ribera de! Duero,
Australian Cabernet and Shiraz, California Cabernet, Rloja
(although it is made in so many styles today that it is difficult to
generalize), Argentine Malbec, Zinfandel, New Wo rld Merlot,
and New Wo rld Pinot Noir although Pinot Noir varies with the
producer's capability and ambitions.
By far the most important body ofwines that positively demand
to be kept are the Crus Classes ofBordeaux. A generation ago
such wines were made to endure, on the assumption that they
would be kept a minimum ofseven or eight years, and more likely
15 or more. Today's wine drinker is less patient. Modern taste
looks for softer tannins (the all-important flattering "mouthfeel")
and riper flavours that mean the wine can be drunk after a mere
five years or so, sometimes earlier.
Storing wine
Ifgood wine 1s worth paying extra for (which in most cases it
1s), it is worth keeping and servi ng (see overleaf) in good
condition. Storing wine badly can turn nectar into s l u d ge. Wine
asks only to be kept lying quietly in a dark, cool, ideally slightly
damp p l ace. Strong light can harm wine, particularly sparkling
wine, over an extended period. Never buy champagne from a
shop window. Warmth speeds up reactions, so the warmer any
wine is kept, the faster and less subtly 1t will mature.
Wine sto rage is a problem for almost everyo ne. Few houses
today come with underground cellars: the perfect place for
keeping a collec t ion. One solution, particularly in hot climates,
are temperatu re- controlled wine storage cabinets, but they
are hardly economical in terms of either investment, space,
or energy use. Yo u can also pay a specialized warehouse to
store your wine for you in ideal condit ions. (Keepi ng it in bond
WINE AND TIME 38
California can manage the ripe, dense, smooth style virtually
every year, but Bordeaux still depends on nature; the 2005, 2010,
and 2016 Bordeaux vintages, fo r example, produced great wines,
for the patient. Red burgundy poses fe wer problems because its
tannins are rarely obtrusive enough to demand extreme patience
Some Grands Crus, though, are so obviously stuffed with
substance in youth that it would be a shame, and a great waste of
money, to drink them at less than 10 years old, and 20 could be
better. All but the very finest white burgundies mature much
faster, and evidence ofpremature oxidation in too many ofthem
has shaken faith in their ageing ability. At over five years you
should taste and check. Chablis, with its higher acidity,
increasingly seems a safer bet for ageing than Cote d'Or white
burgundy. But in general Chardonnay is not a particularly
Jong-Jive d grape variety.
All things being equal, the white wines that most obviously
benefit from bottle-age, in declining order oflongevity, are fine
examples ofTokaji, Sauternes, Loire Chenin Blanc, German
Riesling, Chablis, Hunter Va lley Semillon, sweet Jurani;on, white
burgundy from the Cote d'Or, and dry white Bordeaux. Like most
fortified wines, wood-aged port such as tawnies, sherry, madeira,
and many sparkling wines are ready to drink as soon as they are
bottled. Vintage port is another matter; it can repay more time in
bottle than any other wine.
shelters you from paying duty or tax on it while 1t matures.)
This has the obvious disadvantages of cost and loss of
s ponta n eity, but 1t does shift the responsibility onto a
professional's shoulders . Many fine wine merchants offer this
service. The best truly monitor your wine collection and ad vise
you when to drink what (and whether you have made money on
1t) . The worst have been known to abscond with their clients'
w i n e . Most are delighted to act as brokers 1n a fine wine market
owned by their clients. Any professional wine warehouse should
be able to offer a sound tracking and retrieval system and a
gu arantee of ideal temperature and humidity, as well as
insurance - another consid erat i on.
Wine is not over- fu ssy about temperature ; anything fr om
45-64°F (7-18°C) will do, although 50-55 °F (10-13°C) would be
ideal. What matters more i s that it varies as little as possible
(in an outdoor shed or next to an uninsulated boiler or water
heater will not do). No wine will stand alternate bol ling and
fre ezi n g . In high temperatures wine will not only age fa ster, but
there 1s also the danger of the cork expanding and contracting
so rapidly that it stops being a perfect seal and Jets too much
oxyge n 1 n . If there is any sign of seepage, drink the wine as soon
as p o ssible . But if coolness is impracticable, steady moderate
warmth will do. Just beware very high tempe ra t u res , above
86°F (30°C). This is why fine wine should be shipped either in
temperature- cont ro lled containers, or only at cool times ofyear
Trnd 1tionally, bottles have always been kept lying hor1zontally
to prevent the cork from drying, shrinking, and letting in air,
but scre w - c apped bottles may be stored upright, or however
will best protect the caps fr om being damaged and breaking
the seal. Depending on the health of the fine wine market,
there can be a good argu ment for buying certain wines yo ung ,
at their opening price, and storing them until they reach
perfect maturity, but re member that not all fine wine will
appreciate in val ue, alas .
Wme cellars used to be as discreet, or as in co nsequen ttal, as
a larde1·. Nowadays they are a social statement, something
to display - so long as a constant tempera ture 1s ma1ntamed

As soon as a wine name develops a reputation, so does the
temptation to borrow it This is what inspired the creation of
controlled appellations. The Marquis de Pombal carefully
delimited the Douro Valley in the mid-18th century to protect
the name of port. Almost 20 years earlier, in 1737, the Tokaj
region in northeast Hungary became the world's first delimited
wine region, because the reputation of Tokaj i was then so great
that imitations proliferated. The boundaries ofthe heartland of
Chianti, Chianti Classico in Tuscany, have changed over time,
butitwasasearlyas144
4
that a local regulation was introduced
to tell growers when theywere allowed to start harvesting.
Itwas not until the early 20th centurywhen, in the chaos
createdby phylloxera, fake and adulterated wine were as common
as lowly hybrid vines, that French officialdom started officially to
delimit wine regions. (There were riots in Champagne about
boundaries there.) An obvious next step to ensure quality in a
countrywith such long fine wine traditions was to codify which
vine varieties should be grown and how, even how wine was made
an initiative firstundertakenby Baron Le Roy in 1923 to protect
the much-traduced Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
The French to
o
k to drawing up Appellations d'Origine
Contrt'ilees (AOCs) like ducks to water and by 2008, when the
EUinstituted a pan-European system of Protected Designations
ofOrigin (PDOs) had more than 350 minutely regulated AOCs,
renamed Appellations d'Origine Protegees (AOPs) . Their
best-known European counterparts are Italy's DOCs, Spain's DOs,
Portugal's DOCs, and Germany's Qualitlitswein, details ofwhich
are given on the introductory pages to those countries in this Atlas.
Most European countries, including France, have a layer ofwines
below this known as Protected Geographical Indications (PGIs)
with rather more lax production regulations than for PDOs, but
still associated with very specific geographical areas.
Outside Europe the wine laws are restricted to geographical
delimitation. The US has it11 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs),
Australia its Geographical Indications (Gls) . One or two more
pre11Crtptive informal schemes such as Appellation Marlborough
Wine in New Zealand have been formed, but in general non­
European wine producers are free to plant whichever vine
variety they want and to grow 1t and make wine following their
fancy, even within their careful
l
y delimited regions.
..
.
___ ,.
.
__ __
__...
.
_..
..
..
..
._.
-
·­
...._
--
-.-
..
.
..
.
_..
.
_-
·-.
·- ---·--'
�-..
.
- ---- -- ____ _..
.
..
..
..
..
- -----
-
--- ..__ ..
.
- ·----
--
·--
-
--
=-'"'
Joseph James Fo rrester, vin tner, artist, and agitator for
purer port, pioneered mapping the port country, the Upp er
Douro, in 1843. He lis ted the time taken in hours to travel fr om
the Quinta de Fo rrester (his estate in Peso da Regua) to the
principal places on this map.
A small but growing number ofEuropean wine producers
these days are chafing under the heavy yoke of official appellation
regulations and are choosing to operate outside them, labelling
their wines simply, for example, Vin de France, Vino d'ItaJia, or
Vm o de Espaiia. Super Tuscans tookthis line when theysaid:
"We don't need your DOCs", and for a while it did them no harm.
Yet where would consumers be without some sort ofa regulatory
framework? Discuss.
The To kajl vineyards in Hungary were the nrst be classlffed,
early in the 1700• This map of Mad m 1867 shows the degrH
ofplot·by -plot detail.

Should (or could) there be one label model for all wines?
Should? A consumer might sayyes; a producer, No, No, No.
Their label is their one opportunity to speak directly to their
customers. Identity, information, pride, self-expression, legal
obligations all come into It. There are no simple answers.
But "Could"? It's worth pursuing. There are certain pieces of
information that are essential, and many that are useful. You'll
find many ofthem (rarely all) scattered around most front and
back labels. The Germans characteristically organize them most
efficiently (ifnot effectively: their systematic labels seem to be
losing their appeal). They put the facts in this order:
Origin ofwine (broadly: the district, or commune)
Origin ofwine more precisely (the vineyard)
Grape variety
Style (dry, sweeter, etc)
Vintage
Producer (position varies; sometimes the name is the label art).
Niedermenniger Euchariusberg Riesling Beerenauslese
admittedly doesn't have much pullingpower; polysyllables rarely
do. But Oakville Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon applies
the same principle - to very profitable effect. Pommard Epenots
Pinot Noir lacks only the producer's name to be complete and
clear. You will never see it, though; French law bans the varietal
name from mostAppellation d'Origine Controlee wines. The
devil is in the detail.
A wine label explained
The wine has to have at least one name. It could be the name
of the prod ucer or property or perhaps a made-up brand
name, and it may be supplemented by all manner of detail: a
grape variety and/or a vineyard name and/or the name of a
special bottling and/or qualification such as "Old Vines".
c.
ueux
\>e
�
LAalELI 41
It would be a tidier world if the buic information always
appeared, and appeared In the same order Often it doesn't
appear at all, with onlylegal requirements ofproduction area,
quantity in millilitres, and alcoholic strength by volume.
In designing label11 there are some fundamental questions: are
you Identifying or are you selling? Both, of course, but they are
not the same thing. There are wines that are already respected
and anticipated, fought for, even faked and there are relative
newcomers to the market. The first is looking for respect, the
second for attention. A Bordeaux First Growth would almost be
demeaned by hype, or even explanation, ofany kind. A South
American blend must explain itselfin some detail.
Precision gives status. Adding a vineyard name implies that
that particular plot has distinguished itself(and can claim a
higher price). Identifying the best parcels ofground for ripening
Is a process that has taken Burgundy many centuries; newer wine
regions are anxious to catch up. Geological references (Gravelly
Meadow, ChalkHil
l
) usually go well.
The old qualifiers, Reserve, Directors' Bin, Vieilles Vignes, and
the like no longer cut it even ifRiserva in Italy and Reserva in
Spain, for example, still have legal meaning. "Hand-picked" is
another recent gloss to infer that all the rest is picked by machine
and that this is superior. "Limited Edition" is another
superfluous favourite.
The year in which the grapes were
picked . Wines for which no year is
cited are said to be "non vintage" .
Appellation, or
indication of qual ity
level such as IGP, or
just "Wine"
All labels have to give
the name and address
of the producer or, if
not, the bottler,
although some less
glamorous ad dresses
may be deliberately
abbreviated to some
initials and a p ostcod e .
Appellation Landres Controlee
Where the wine
was bottled.
13% Vol
The alcoholic strength is compulsory on all
labels, although there is wide var1at1on
between different countries in the amount
of tolerance allowed . It may be as much as
1.5%, so this wine could infact be 14.5%.
Mis en bouteille dans nos bure a ux --
--
--
--
-+-
--
--
--
JOHNSON & ROBINSON
www.worldatl asofw i nc. com
Contai ns Sulphites
PRODUIT DE L'ANGLETERRE
M a ny labels cite the
country of o r igin.
75cl
The amount of wine
in the bottle, 75cl is
a standard bottle.
Compulsory health
warning, often on the
back label, which many
producers use as an
official principal label
so that all the
compulsory
information 1s found
there , leaving their
designers to play with
the fro nt label

42 TA STING AND DISCUSSING WINE
Far too much wine, even good or great wine, flows over the
tongues and down the throats ofpeople who drink it, but don't
actively taste it. It can smell like paradise, fetch a fortune, but
nothing the winemaker can do dispenses with the need for an
interested drinker. Someone who pays attention. Ifthe sense of
taste were located in the mouth (where our impulses tell us it is),
anyone swallowing a mouthful ofwine would get all the
sensations it has to offer. But all that the hundreds of taste buds
on the tongue can sense are the basic tastes: sweet, sour, salt, •
bitter, and the savour of umami. The nerves that receive more
distinctive sensations, such as the complex flavours ofwine, are
located at the top of our noses.
The most sensitive bit ofwhat we call our sense oftaste is
actually our sense of smell. The real organ of discrimination is
the olfactory bulb in the upper nasal cavity. When the vapours of
wine are inhaled (throughthe nose and, to a lesser extent, the
back ofthe mouth) they are sensed by a thousand different
receptors, each sensitive to a particular group ofrelated aromas.
Amazingly, we humans are apparently able to distinguish up to
10,000 different smells.
It is often remarked how these smells stir memories far more
rapidly and vividly than other sensations. The fibres ofthe
olfactory bulb run directly to the temporal Jobe where memories
are stored, and one of the most primitive functions ofthe brain
is to associate smell with memory. Smell, the most primitive of
How to taste and appreciate wine
EYES
NOSE
our senses, has the privilege of instant access to our memory
bank. When "blind tasting", trying to identify a mystery wil
l
e,
experienced tasters often rely on the im
m
ediate reaction of
their memory to the first sniff of a wine. If they can
n
ot relate it
straight away to wines they have tasted in the past they must fall
back on their powers of analysis. The range ofreference
available is the great difference between an experienced taster
and a beginner. There is little meaning in an isolated sensation,
though it may be very pleasant. Where the real pleasures ofwine
tasting lie are in the cross-references, the stirring ofmemories,
' the comparisons between similar and yet subtly different
products of the same or a neighbouring vineyard. Not, of course,
just smell but colour, texture, strength, structure, body, and
length, as well as their complex offlavours. A taster takes all
these into account.
Tastings come in many different forms, from the simple
act of enjoyment around a friendly table to the fam ously
difficult professional blindtastingtests set for those qualifying
as a Master ofWine, involving quality assessment as well
as identification. When you are poured a sample ofthe
wine you ordered in a restaurant you become a "taster" .
Here, the first object is to approve the temperature, but also
to check there is no obvious fault, the likeliest being some
degree ofTCA taint (see p.37). You can't send it backjust
because you don't like it.
MOUTH
Pour a tasting sample into the glass
so that it 1s no more than a quarter
fu ll First, check the wine 1s clear
(cloudiness or fizziness in st ill wines
indicate a fault) and look straight
down at it to see how intense the
colour is (the deeper a red, the
younger the wine and/or t hic k er­
skinned the grap es. a val uable clue 1f
tasting a mystery wine " blind"). Red
wines become paler with age, white
wines d eeper. Tilt the glass away from
you agai nst a white bac kground and
observe the colour in the middle of
the liquid and at the ri m. All wines
turn slowly brown with age and the
rim 1s the first place where any brick
colour 1s noticeable in a red . Yo ung
reds are more purplish-blue than
brick Old reds lose colour completely
at the rim The glossier the colour
and the more subtly shaded its
diffe rent colour grad ations , the
better the w ine .
Take one sniff with all the
concentration you can muster, then
swirl the wine around and sniff once
more . The stronger the impression,
the more intense the aroma or
bouqu et . A subtle, matu ring wine may
need the swirl before it gives off much
smell at all. If you are tasting blind,
this is the moment when you are
hoping fo r a massive intuitive c lue :
some relationship to something fr om
your tasting memory ban k . Ifyou
This stage involves taking a good
mouthful of wine and exposing all of
the taste buds distributed over the
tongue and insides of the cheeks to
it. Ifthe nose is best at sensing the
subtle flavours in a wine, the mouth 1s
best at measuring its const itu ents:
sweetness, ac idity, bitterness, the
insides of the cheeks for drying
tan nins, and the entrance to the
throat for any burning excess of
a l cohol. Once a mouthfu l has been
swallowed or (by professionals at
work) spat out , a judgement can be
made as to whether all these
elements are in balance (young !'e ds
are often deliberately high 1n tannins)
and how persistent the wine 1s on the
palate - a good 1nd1cator of quality
are tasting to assess the wine, note
whether it smells clean (most wines
do nowadays), intense, and what the
smell re minds you of I t is much easier
to remember a smell if you can attach
words to 1t. As you taste or drink
the wine (and these two act 1v1ties can
fe el very different) notice how the
smell changes With time in the glass
good wines tend to become more
inte re s ting, inexpensive commercial
wines less so
At this stage the win can be Judged ,
possibly even identifie d , 1n its nt1r ty

Win• and words
What is much harder than appreciating wine is communicating
its sensations. There le no common notation oftaste as there is of
sound orcolour: apart from the words used for Its basic
dimem1ions such as "strong", "tart", "tough", "sweet", and
" bitter", every word in the language of taste 1s borrowed from the
other senses. And yet words, by giving an identity to sensations,
help to clarify them. Assembling a vocabulary is a crucial element
in becoming a wine connoisseur.
From talking about wine to writing about it is but a step one
that few wine drinkers ever take. Ye t there is a strong case for
keeping notes onwhatyou drink or taste in a more or less
organized way. Inthefirst place, having tocommitsomething to
paper makes you concentrate: the prime requirement for being
able to taste wine properly at all. In the second, it makes you
analyze and pin labels on the sensations experienced by your
nose and palate. In the third, it is an aide-memoire; when
somebody asks you what a wine is like, you can look it up and say
something definite. In the fourth, it allows you to extend
comparison between wines over time - either the same wine a
year later, or different but related wines on different occasions.
In short, keeping tastingnotes is like keeping a diary: obviously a
good idea, buthard toget offthe ground A little guidance may help.
Professional tastingsheets are often divided into three, simplyto
remind tasters to make a note ofthe appearance ofthe wine, how it
smells, and the impact ofthe wine on the palate. There may also be
a fourth space for overall impressions. Different tasters evolve their
own tasting language and shorthand and there is no point in being
to
o
prescriptive. The single most important note to be made is the
fullname ofeverywinetasted, includingthe vintage.Adate canbe
useful on tasting notes, to
o
, forfuture reference.Anda note ofthe
place and/or fellow tasters may help tojogyour memory when you
come to read these (usual
l
y increasingly illegible) notes again.
Making notes on a smartphone can at least minimize typos, and
inputting them into a database can help in finding them again.
Keeping score
Are scores appropriate forjudgingwine? Under some professional
circumsta
n
ces, such as competitions orjudging panels, they are
unavoidable - either as symbols, or the numbers thathave become
such a powerful weapon in wine retailing in some countries. The
habit ofapplying points out oflOO to wines has been seized on with
delightby a new generation ofwine buyers around the world, for it
offers an international scoreboard (reflected often by a similarly
calibrated international marketplace), and can be understood no
matter what your native language.
But 89/100 or 93/100 gives a sense ofprecision that is wholly
spurious. The British professional scale ofpoints up to 20 is more
realistic, but some argue that even here good wines are always
closely grouped between, say, 14 and 19 points, with some tasters
optingfor halfpoints. Numbers of any size infer there is an
absolute, objective measure of quality, whereas in realitywine
tasting is an essentially subjective process. A score that is the
average of a panel is deeply suspect; it tends to exclude any wine
with real individuality (which is bound to displease someone). And
even the pronouncements ofa single palate can be misleading. We
al
l
have our own likes and dislikes among wine flavours and styles.
We all begin with one set ofpreferenceb, then our taste evolves and
continues to change throughout our wine-drinking lives. There are
no absolutes ofright and wrong in wine appreciation. The best
judge ofthe right styles ofwine for your palate is you.
Individual opinion is now more valued and available than it
was in the era of a handful ofwine gurus, not least thanks to wine
rating and recognition apps such as ViVino, and CellarTracker's
online database of crowd-sourced wine tasting notes.
TA S TING AND DISCUSllNQ WINI'. 42
A champagne tastmg for wine enthusiasts at the London
wm e -based club 67 Pall Mall. Note the tasting sheets and -
essential - water and spittoons.
Old and new
The red on the left is a four-year-old South Australian
Shiraz, st ill very deep 1n hue with some suggestion
of purple and its deep tint right out to the rim.
On the right i s another New World wine fro m a deeply
coloured grape, an eight-year-old California Caber n et .
See how the colour 1s less intense, much less blue, and
more orange with a much paler rim - the effects of
bottle-age.
IT
The white on the left 1s a two-year- old California
Chardonnay but it could be almost any young white
w ine. A Riesling would be greener, a Muscadet al most
wa t er- w hite. The wine on the right is a 15-year-old
Grand Cru white burgundy Notice how white wines also
acq uire a brown tinge with age but gai n rather than
lose inte nsity of c olour.

44 SERVING WINE
Can you imagine opening abottle ofLaftte on your own? Perish
the thought; wine is for sharing. In the final analysis wine is a social
game. It is about human relations, hospitality, rivalry, bonding.
ritual - al
l
the mores of social life and all under the influence,
however mild and benign, of alcohol. And the more thought goes
into the process of sharing. the more pleasure it can give.
The best choice. The right amount. In the best condition.
Not hard to achieve, but they need forethought, working out in
advance how many bottles and types ofwines you are likely to
need, and what order to serve them in. A young wine served first
tends to show offthe qualities of an older one; a white wine is
usually good at ushering in a red one; a lightwine abigger one;
a dry wine a sweet one. Many of these combinations playedthe
other way round can be disastrous for the wine you serve second.
The question ofhow much to serve is not always easy. In a
normal 75cl bottle, there are six to eight glasses (which means
generous glasses filled one-third full, not small ones filled to the
brim). At a lightlunch, one glass per person might be enough,
whereas at a long dinner, five or six might not be too much. There
is a golden rule for hosts: be generous but never pressing. and be
sure to pour water, too.
You mayhave a party of enthusiasts who want to discuss every
sip; ifnot, don't try to force them. If the number of guests at the
table calls for more than one bottle with each course, you might
consider serving two slightly different wines together perhaps
different vintages ofthe same wine/producer, or the same grape
but from different regions. (To avoid confusion, the wines can be
served in different, or marked, glasses. One London wine
merchant uses a coloured paper dot on the foot ofeach glass.)
Once you've decided likely quantities, bottles containing
sediment should ideally be stood up in time for it to sink to
the bottom of the bottle which can take a day or so. Even more
importantly, this preparation allows time for all bottles to be
brought to their ideal temperature.
Nothing makes more dif
f
erence to the enjoyment ofwine than its
temperature . Stone-cold Cabernet and lukewarm Rieslings are a
Decanting wi ne
terrible waste: the wines taste so far from their best. And there are
several good reasons why. Our al
l
-important sense ofsmell (and
hence the greater part ofwhat we "taste") is susceptible only to
vapours. Redwine is generally less volatile, or aromatic, than white .
The object ofserving red wine at "room temperature"
(conventionally about 65°F/18°C), is to warm it to the point
where its aromatic elements begin to vaporize - which is ata
progressively higher temperature for more solid and substantial
wines. An aromatic light red such as Beaujolais or cool-climate
Pinot Noir can be treated as a white wine; even cold, its perfume
is upfront and obvious. A full-bodied red such as a Brunello or a
Shiraz, on the other hand, may need the warmth ofthe ro
o
m,of
the cuppedhand around the glass, and possiblyofthe mouth
itself to volatilize its complex constituents.
Tan
nins
are much more obvious at low temperatures. Thus,
the warmer a tannic young red wine is served, the softer, more
generous, and more evolved it will taste. The illusion ofmaturity
can be created for a young Cabernet or red Bordeaux, for
example, by judiciously serving it on the warm side, which will
increase the apparent flavour and decrease its astringency. Pinot
Noir or red burgundy, however, tends to be lower in tan
nin
and
more naturally aromatic. This explains the longtradition of
serving red burgundy almost straight out ofthe cellar, and
certainly cooler than red Bordeaux.
Cold is also necessary to balance the richness ofvery sweet
wines. Like tannin, acidity tastes more pronounced at lower
temperatures, so if there is a need to emphasize it, whether
because the wine is high in sugar, over-aged, or from a hot
climate, the wayto give it freshness and zip is by cooling it a little.
Sparklingwines are generally served a little cooler than still
whites to keep the bubbles coming.
A wine served too warm loses itc; refreshment value - and is in
practice difficult to cooldown, whereas a wine served too cool
will naturally approach room temperature and can easily be
warmed by cupping the glass in a hand. It is easier to serve white
wine at the right temperature than red by putting it in a fridge.
Cut the foil, possibly taking it off
completely 1f you want to see all of the
bottle n ec k . Ta ke the cork out gently,
keeping the bottle ( and s edime n t) as
st ill as possible. You could use any
clean contai ner as a decanter but
glass gives you the visual thrill of a
fine wine . Old wines should ideally go
into contai ners without much
head space whereas young wines are
best decanted into a container that
allows maximum aerat ion.
Having wiped the lip of the bottle to
clean it, hold the bottle in one hand
and the decanter in t he other. Po ur
steadily, ideally with the bottleneck
against a strong source of light such
as a naked light bulb or a candle. If you
store wine with the label on top, the
sediment is in the right place.
Continue to pour until you see the
sed iment (if any) moving into t h e
lower neck of the bottle Then stop
when the dregs start to move
dangerously close to the rim If there
ls much more sed iment than this,
stand the wine for longer, stopper the
decante r, and try again later, although
some wines throw a " bot tle deposit"
which sticks irrevocably to th s ides.
Pour the dregs into a glass to s ttle,
this is for ft er wasl1ing up

But thefastest way to cool a bottle is to put it in a bucket ofice
and water (not ice alone), or a special cooll.ngjacket. Always keep
bottle11 (and even more so glasses) out ofdirect sunshine.
Persuading a red wme to reach the right temperature is harder
Ifit starts at cellar temperature, say 50°F (10°C), it can take
several hours in a normal room to raise it 10 or 12 degrees. The
kitchen is the logical place - but many kitchens are well over
68°F (20°C), especially while dinner is cooking. At this sort of
temperature red wines can be thrown out of balance; the alcohol
starts to vaporize and the heady smell masks the wine's
ch aracter. Some ofits flavour may even be lost forever.
One practical way ofwan
nin
gredwineinahurryisfirstto
decant it, then to stand the decanter in water at about 70°F
(21°C) . It does no harm to heat the decanter (wi thin reason) first.
Microwave ovens also come into their own for heating wine
bottles in a hur
ry
. The danger, however, is being too impatient
and heating the wine beyond the point ofno return. A little
experimentation with abottle ofwater wouldbe prudent. In a
restaurant, if your red wine has been served too warm, don't
hesitate to ask for an ice bucket. You will be continuing a long
and noble tradition ofconnoisseurship.
Pulling the cork
Openingbottles is not always as easy as you expect: hence the
growing popularity of screw caps. First you must remove the foil,
or capsule. Foils are usually cut neatlyjust below the rim ofthe
bottle but this is just convention. Special foil cutters are an
optional boon. A good corkscrew has a hollow helix that grips the
cork firmly. Ones with a solid shaft should be banned; they can
pull the centre out. The "butler's friend" with two blades that go
either side of the cork (so calledbecause it theoretically let the
crafty rogue drink the fine wine and refill the bottle with plonk
without piercing the cork) is a good alternative, and there is a
model designed especially forfragile old corks that combines
the two techniques, but fancy designs are just that; the standard
"waiter's friend", with a little knife and a two-stage lever device,
was patented 125 years ago and has not been beaten yet.
Opening bottles ofsparkling wine requires a special technique.
They should be chil
l
ed, and not (recently) shaken. It is worth
remembering that the pressure inside a champagne bottle is like
that inside the tyre of a truck, so an unguarded, flying cork can do
a lot of damage. After taking offthe foil and untwisting the wire
muzzle, hold the cork down while gently twisting the bottle off
it, ideally at an angle to maximize the surface area where the
bubbles can escape. The cork should come out with a sigh rather
than a bang.
Very old corks pose problems. They can easily disintegrate
under the pressure ofa corkscrew, particularly one ofthe more
powerful modern designs. The two-pronged butler's friend
sometimes does thejob. Old vintage port can be the devil to open;
the cork breaks; finally, you have to let part ofit fall in. Filter the
wine through coffee paper or muslin; no harm is done. Port tongs,
heated red-hot to cut the neck offthe bottle, soun'd drastic but
work beautiful
l
y.
Decanting is much discussed but little understood, largely
because its effect on a given wine is unpredictable. There is a
mistaken idea that it is somethingyou do only to ancient bottles
with lots ofsediment - a mere precautionary measure to get a
clean glass ofwine. But experience shows that it is usuallyyoung
wines that benefit most. The oxygen they contain has had little
chance to take effect. But the air in the decanter works rapidly
andef
f
ectively to give at least an illusion of more maturity. In a
matter of an hour or two it can often induce the opening ofwhat
was a closed bud. Some strongyoungwines Barolo springs to
mind can benefit from even as much as 24 hours in a decanter.
SU.VINQ WINI 41
Corkscrews and other wine kit
Waiter's
fr iend
Foil cutter
Screwpull
corkscrew
•
Butler's
fr iend
Champagne star
The foil cutter is a neat alternative to the blade on the
waiter's fr iend. The champagne star, with its four flanges
designed to fit into the grooves made by the wire muzzle,
can help twist off a stubborn champagne cork
A good rule ofthumb isthat young, tannic, alcoholic wines
need, and can withstand, much earlier decanting than old,
lighter-bodied wines. Full white wines such as white burgundies
or Rhones can benefit from decanting, too - and will look even
more beguiling in a decanter than reds.
Those (andthere are some) opposed to decanting argue that
you lose some fruit and flavour to the decanter.
.
Better, they feel,
to pour straight from the bottle, taste and evaluate the wine's
state ofmaturity, and aerate in the glass ifnecessaryby swirling
the wine around. This is debatabl e, and is often debated, but trial
and individual taste are the only real guides. Just pulling the cork
in advance makes little difference, ifany - but does let you check
the bottle is a good one.
Good glasses, of course, are essential. Riedel's glasses are
famous for the notion that each style of wine or grape variety
needs a different shape ofglass. "Needs" is an overstatement.
One generous-sized, bulbous, clear, and reasonablythin-walled
glass can show off al
l
table wines well.
It may seem too obvious to mention, but wine glasses should
be clean that is, polished and untainted with smells of
detergents or cupboards. Many nowadays can withstand
dishwashers. Any polishing is best done while the glasses are
still hot, with a fresh linen cloth. Cupboard or cardboard smells
usually come from keepingglasses upside down, on a shelfor in
a box. This may be necessary on open shelves, but itis better to
keep them right way up in a clean, dry, airy cupboard. Sniffthem
before putting them on the table. It is good practice for the nose.

46 THE BOTTOM LINE
Fine wine has never been more expensive . Counterfeiting wine
never more lucrative. The most famous names are, deliberately,
assigned prices that put them firmly in the luxury-asset class. In
the early 1980s you could buy a standard unit offine wine a case
ofl2 bottles ofa Bordeaux first growth - from the famous 1982
vintage forjust over £300. Even first growths from the lauded
2000 vintage were launched at prices well under £450 a case.
But as the 21st century has worn on, the number of people on the
planet who are interested in wine, or at least interested in pu�ing
their money into it while interest rates remain low, has grown out
ofall proportion to the amount offine wine produced with
predictable effects on prices. First growths now cost several
thousand pounds a case on release, decades before they are ready
to dnnk. (See p.87 for some illuminating figures on how much
such wines cost to make .)
Several factors have traditionally tempted investors towards
Bordeaux. One is its sheer size; it is world-fam ous, made in
substantial quantities, and generally available. Another is the
relative simplicity ofits naming system; its wines are easy to
identify. Perhaps most important is the longevity ofits wines.
Investors don't want a commodity they must turn over quickly
before it loses value; they prefer one with a longer trading
wmdow. A top Bordeaux can offer 20 or more years ofprobable,
even predictable, saleability, and the auction houses and fine
wine merchants and traders offer a ready secondary market.
Since the mid-l970s, Bordeaux wine producers and merchants
Fine wi ne trading indices
500
450
c;:; 400
0
0
<'<
'-
.,
Bordeaux Legends 50
Bordeaux 500
Burgundy 150
Italy 100
Rhone 100
California
became increasingly dependent on selling the latest vintage
en primeur, showing cask samples to the world's media and
merchants in the spring after the harvest and then releasing
prices for these embryonic wines, prices that became
increasingly, and questionably, based on the scores ofa handful of
'critics'. There were inevitably tensions between proprietors and
merchants (negociants) over how the considerable profits from
this system were shared but the upshot was that cbateau owners
largely dictated release prices and the quantities released, and
negociants tended to accept them for fear oflosing their
allocations offuture vintages.
For some vintages, such as 2009 and 2010, demand was
red-hot, fuelled by new interest from Asia. As the graph below
charting price rises for various fine wine indices on the trading
platform Liv-ex since it was founded in 2003 shows, the
overheated Bordeaux market plummeted in 2011 as newbuyers
from China in particular withdrew in disgust when the
immediate returns they had been promised failed to materialize.
It took until late 2016 for market prices ofthe 2009s to match
the release prices, so overblown were they.
Just as after a similar slip in 2007, the market rallied eventual
l
y
but in recent years en primeur sales have been generally more
sluggish as an increasing number of prospective wine investors
have turned their attention to other regions. Bordeaux
negociants have also started to hedge their bets with high-profile
releases of significant fine wines from the rest ofthe world.
This peak was just before the new
wave of Chinese buyers realized that
the 2009s and 2010s had been
overpriced and that buying en
primeur wa s no sure -fire investment.
-�
,
.
!.----
.0 350
E.,
0
.,
,
\
,
\
,
.
,
I
'
,
,
,,
.
a
E 300
0
Q
1il"O 250
.,
��� 200
Qj>
.!
!!
)(
.,"O
150
E
)(
.,
;.
.
.J 100
50
,
,
,
,
,
'
,
,
,
,
,
I
I
I
o
+-�
�-.,-�
�-.,-�
�-,-�
�-,-�
�-,-�
�-,-�
�-,-�
�-,-�
�-,-�
�-
-,-�
�-
-,-�
�-,-
-
.,
2016
T-
2017
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
The most famous wines of Bordeaux, L1v-ex's 50 "Bordeaux
Legends", have Increased 1n price even more ra pidly than
the 500 classed growths and e quivalent wines that make
up the bulk of Bordeaux that 1s trad ed. But even they
have been outpaced by recent price rises for th 150
2011
2012
201 3
2014
2015
best-known burgu ndies. The dramatic p eaks 1n 201 1 apply
only to Bordeaux, because at that stage the new wav of
Chinese fine win investors was entirely focused on 1' d
Bordeaux Burgundy took off in 2015 The Rhone 1s the
bargain a rea; California very much not

Burgundy has been se
e
n as the most obvious
altl'rnatlvc to Bordeaux and the fact that the
wines ofBurgundy are made In so much smaller
quantities than the wines of Bordeaux has only
fanned the flame• ofinflation. The graph shows
how price rises for Burgundy's top 150 investment
wines overtook those for Bordeaux's fine wines,
the so-called Bordeaux 500, back In 2011, and two
years later outpaced price rises for even the top
wines of Bordeaux, the Bordeaux Legends 50. The
2016 vintage ofRomanee-Conti, the rarest wine
from the Domalnede la Romanee-Conti, was
released at £3,250 perbottle pre tax.
The fine wines ofltaly have increased
considerably in value too, largelythanks to a
much wider appreciation ofthe unique qualities
of Barolo and Barbaresco, and the appeal ofthe
best wines of Tuscany. California's most cultish
wines were already ambitiously priced back in
2003, but demand for them in the healthy US
economy has not exactly slowed.
Less exalted bottles
At the other end ofthe scale, everyday wine is
probably bettervalue today than it has ever been.
Winemakers are vastlymore skilful than they
once were. Technical
l
y imperfect wines are
extremely rare, and more likely to be the fault of
poor-quality corks, storage, or transport than of
Inept winemakers. Competition for commercial
distribution is so fierce at this oversupplied
bottom end ofthe market that margins are
wafer-thin . Basic wines may not be thrilling but
they are rarely overpriced.
The trick for value-conscious wine drinkers is
to find thebest deals and most Interesting wines
In the vast middle ground between supermarket
bottlings and trophy wines (many ofwhich may
never be drunk, nor moved from their high­
quality, temperature-controlled storage while
being shuffled between investors) . Itpays to keep
an open mind and a palate alert to inherent
qualityrather than established reputation.
Labour, sometimes water, sometimes but
decreasingly chemicals, vineyard and cellar
equipment, bottles, stoppers, labels, vintage
reputation, rarity, maturity, market positioning,
taxation, subsidies, currency movements, and
ambition al
l
play their part in determining the
price of a wine. In Europe, with the exception of
Champagne and merchant-bottlers, most wine
producers own or lease their own vineyards.
Outside Europe, buying in grapes is much more
common and necessarily affe cts prices.
Wherever grapes come from, vineyard land
prices play ahugepart in determining, and
reflecting, wine prices. In the list above right, we
have done our best to gather comparable prices
from around the world ofwine. It clearly shows
how reputation trumps soil types. Billionaires
are no longer content withowning the most
famouswines Inthe world;theywantto own the
estates responsible for them, too. Our figures are
conservative; new records for the prices paid per
square metre ofvmes arebeing set every month.
Vi neyard land prices
Prices, the most recent avai lable, have b een
assembled from al l over the world of wine and
c onverted to dollars per acre (often from euros p er
hectare) They are grouped by country and then
listed in declining va l u e. Note that the most famous
European wine regions command higher prices than
any outside Europe, but that Beaujolais, for instance,
looks like a real bargai n . There seems a strong
correlation between land prices and fashion, as
witness the Jerez vineyard pri ce.
-.Nine fteg\on
fran ce
pau1\\ac
cote d'Or
cnarnPagn
e
sancerre
ee au10\a1s
\tal)'
aarolo
J>,\tO p.
.
dige
N\onta\cinO
$/acr•
$940 ,000
$8"70 ,000
$580 ,ooO
$15,00 0
$5,500
$822,ooo
$352,000
$'235,0 00
$96,oo o
47
This suggests that famous Bordeaux names
command higher prices than top Burgundy
v i neyards, and certai nly the sale of 20% of Petrus in
Pomerol 1n 2018 created a new world rec o rd . But
that price 1s rivalled by the less public zed sales of
tiny slices of Grand Cru vineyard s in Burgundy's Cote
d'Or, ge neral ly to outsiders by fam ilies who have
owned land there for ge n erat ions.
C\ass\CO
cn1antl
spa.in
Rioia
$15 ,ooo
$12,ooo
The glamour of Napa Val ley and the prices that Napa
Valley grapes can command have had a hugely inflationary
effect on land prices t here . On the other hand, land is still
relatively inexpensive in the Willamette Valley, even though
it is Oregon's most celebrated wine r egi on. And the cool
climes ofSanta Barbara look particularly well- p riced.
Jerez
portugal
oouro
GerO' anY
Rheinhe ssen
uSA
�•
pa va\leY
,
..
a
coast
sonorna
aarbara
santa
\Ja\leY
\fl/i\\ arnette
.
th Africa
sou
h
Ste\\e nboSC
Australia
sa va\\eY
aaros
zea\ and
\'leYI
h
The relatively high price of land in Stellenbosch --
--
--
-.
..!_
_-
-
M
ar\boroul!,
presumably reflects the buoyancy of demand
fr om northern Europe for land in this part of the
world as holiday homes and winter getaways.
Workingforwine
$26,o oo
$'263,00 0
$45,000
$12,000
$9.ooo
$'27,000
$33,000
$59,ooo
This chart shows how much of a bottle of
first-growth Bordeaux a UK worker being paid
the average wage could afford to buy after a
4-hour shift in each of the years that this Atlas
was published. In the mid-1990s, JU St four hours'
work would earn more than a bottle of Bordeaux's
finest By 2017, the most rec ent year for which we
have figures, to be able to afford a fu ll bottle would
req uire working more than 20 hours, or half of an
average working week on the average wage
1971
1977
1985
/ One fu ll bottle plus one fu ll glass of w1ne was
the prize fo r a half-day shift m 1994, when the
fourth ed1t1on was published.
1994
200 1
2 007
2013
2 017
Amount of wine that could be bought by working o n e 4 hour shift
Number of hours and minutes worked to be able to buy one bottle

48 THE WORLD OF WINE
The world's vineyard map is no longer composed oftwo neat
bands through the temperate zones of each hemisphere. Climate
change, ambition, and the development oftropical viticulture are
extending the reach ofthe vine as you read this. The wine world
has been spreading towards the North Pole, and would spread
further towards the South Pole ifthere were more avai lable land
mass. And there are now many vineyards within a few degrees
ofthe equator in countries such as Brazil, Ethiopia, India,
Myanmar/Burma, Thailand,Vi etnam, and Indonesia.
China has overtaken France as the world's second most­
significant grower ofvines, but only 11% ofthe grapes they yield
are used for wine. All the countries highlighted in the list below
produce more table or dried grapes than wine grapes. The wine
production figures opposite give a more accurate picture ofthe
relative importance ofwine-producing countries today. In most
countries specializing in wine production, totalvineyard area
has been slightly contracting. Austria and Hungary being notable
exceptions. The Russian annexation ofCrimea explains the
changes in total area in Russia and Ukraine.
Who has the most vines?
(in l,OOOs hectares)
Rank
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
215
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
Country
Spain
China*
France
Italy
Turkey•
USA
Iran*
Argentina
Chile
Portugal
Romania
Australia
Uzbekistan•
Moldova
lnde/lndra
South Africa
Greece
Germany
Russian
Federation
Brazil
Egypt*
Algeria*
Hungary
Bulgaria
Georgia
Austria
Morocco•
Ukraine
New Zealand
TaJ1k1stan•
Mexico
Peru
World total
2013
973
757
793
705
504
453
219
224
206
229
192
157
120
137
127
133
110
102
62
90
74
79
56
64
48
44
46
76
38
41
29
23
e,010
2017
967
870
786
699
448
441
223
222
215
194
191
145
142
140
131
125
106
103
88
86
83
75
69
65
48
48
46
44
40
34
34
32
6,940
%Change
- 0.6%
14.9%
- 0.8%
- 0.9%
-11.1%
-2.8%
1.9%
-1 .0%
4.3%
-15.4%
- 0.2%
-7.5%
18.7%
2.1%
3.4%
- 5.9%
-3.7%
0.2%
42.1%
-4.4%
12.2%
- 5.2%
22.7%
1.2%
1.0%
9.2%
-0.9%
- 42.1%
3.4%
-15.7%
14 8%
36 9%
0.4%
Italy and Fran e vi with each other every year for who ma es
Lhe most wine. Spain' lackofwater and par elyplanted vine
explain why Spani h yield are o much lower than French and
Italian o nes.
The wo rld' tota l con umption ofwine seemed to be .in decl ine
in the earlyye ar of the decade of the 2010s, mai nly because
the French and Italians were drinking o much le . But, partly
thanks to the popularity ofwine with youngerAmericans and
the Chinese, the globaJ consu m ption ofgrapes in their most
delicious liquid form seems tobe on the increase again.
acre
ha
The hectare (100 ares) is the equivalent
of 2.47 acres.
HECTOLITRES
The hectolitre (100 litres) 1s the commonest
measure for wine production. It equals
22 imperial gal lons (26.4 US gallons).
'Countries in which a s1gn1ficant proportion of v1n y rd s
are devoted to prod ucts other than win

�--
"'
THI: WO..LD OF WINI 41
The key wine producers
(in million hectolitres)
2017
2011
North America
USA
233
23.9
South America
Argentina
11.8
14.5
Chile
9.5
12.9
Brazil
3.6
3.4
Europe
Italy
425
48.5
France
36.6
46.4
Spam
32.5
40.9
Germany
7.5
9.8
Portugal
6.7
53
Romania
4.3
52
Russian Federation
6.3
3.9
Hungary
2.5
3.4
Austria
2.5
3.0
Greece
2.6
2.2
Moldova
1.8
2.0
Bulgaria
1.2
1.1
Switzerland
0.8
1.1
Afr1�
10.8
9.5
South Afr�
'
�/Middle East
c ,Seorgia
--
,
"
Far East
1.3
2.0
50"N
30'N
China
Australasia
Australia
New Zealand
World total
10.8
13.7
29
235.IS
NA
12.5
3.0
2154.IS
2017 was a most unusual vintage, with
crop levels dramatically reduced by
spring frosts in much of Europe and
in Argentina, too, while drought was
responsible for Chile's smaller-than- usual
harvest. The flgures for 2018 are much
more representative of a normal year.
International boundary
- Vineyards (not to scale)
r�

52
France
Despite the best efforts of the country's
zealous temperance lobby, It would be as
impossible to think of France without wine
as it Is to think of wine without France.
The map shows France's ad mm1strat1ve
departements and, arguably more important
to national pride and international pleasure,
her many and varied wine regions. Names such
as burgundy and champagne have long been so
redolent ofgreatness in wine that, much to
the disgust of the French, they have in their
time been liberally borrowed without apology.
The vine was once grown much more widely
in France, but the total vineyard area has
shrunk considerably - very generally by
phylloxera, urban ization, and changing tastes
in the north and by sweeteners designed to
dram Europe's wine lake in the south. The
green triangles show the total area of vines
per departement or, as 1n the case of Cognac
THE LANGUAGE OF THE LABEL
cursault
"PPElU .TlOJri. Mf.lJllS.U 11 (.0,,.lkt'>l t l
COCHE DUR.Y
C&R.COCflE
VITIC UI TI.UIU A M.WLSAOLT con 0 Oil
I75d I
QUALITY DESIGNATIONS
Appellation d'Origine Controlee (AOC) wines
whos geographical origms, varietal make- u p, and
producl10n mel hod5 arc prec1scly regulaled - generally
lhe bcsl ,rnd cerlamly lhc most trad1l 1onal, eqmvalenl
lo the CU's Appel lal1on d'Or1gmc Prolegee (AOP)
Indication Geographi q ue Protegee (IGP) U1e E
dcnommalion gradually rcpla mg Vm de Pays, ufl n
from , rea� larg r thanAO zones, m which
non 1r.id 1l1onal varieties and h1ghcr y1clds are allowed
Vin or Vin de France lhc basic EU d nomination
rcplacmg Vi n de Table ; variet and v1nlagc may b
�lated on llw labd
OTHER COMMON EXPRESSIONS
Blanc \\<h1te
Cave (coopera /1 ve) co opcra l1vc wmery
Chlteau Wllll l'slalc or even larm, typ1c.1lly
11
1
Bo1 tk· a11x
Coteaux de, C6tes de l p1 t.1ll)' hill'1dt�
Cru ht< 1,111) , ')(ro\\<th" a � pt· ufi(•(1 'upu 1 ur plot ofl,1nd
country in and around the Charentes, for all
four departements that grow grapes for
France's most fa mous spirit.
France still supplies more great wine, and in
greater variety, than any other country
Geography 1s the key France, washed by the
At lantic and lapped by the Mediterranean, is
uniquely well-situated with the infl uence of
the continent to the east �nd a rich variety of
soils, including more of the precious calcaire
(limestone), so prop1t1ous to wine quahty,
than any ot her country. Chmate change is
affect ing harvest dates and wine styles
But France not only has good vineyards; she
defines, classifies, and controls them in more
detail and has a longer history of this, and
producing fine wine, than any other country
- the original templates for many of the wines
1n the rest of the book are found on these
French pages. It started with the Appellation
d'Or1gme Controlee (AOC) born in the 1920s,
which broke new grou nd by restricting the
use ofa geographical name to wines made in a
precisely specified area. The law also st ipulates
Cru classe ru that has been dist ingu i hed by an
importanl clas ificat10n such a the 1855 111 Bordeaux
(d1 cu sed on p.84)
Domaine vineyard holding, Burgundy ' generally
maller-scal e answer to chaleau
Grand Cru literal ly "grea t growU1 ": m Burgundy, U1e
finest vineyards, 11
1
St-Emilion, nothmg pecial
Methode classlque, methode
trad itionnelle parkl mg wme made u i ng the same
method as for champagne
Milleslme vintage year
Mis (en bouteille) au chateau/domalne/a la
propriete estate- bottled wine made by the same
entcrpri e as lhat wh1 h grew lhe grapes
Negoclant merchant botlle r, an ente rpn sc lhnt buys m
wine or grape ' ( fdomaine)
Premier Cru liternlly "fir>l growt h'" m Burgund ,a
notch down from Grand C ru; inl h M doc, one of the top
four chatcuux
P roprietaire- re coltant owner-v ine- growe r
Recoltant vin -grower
Recoite hurvc>l or vmlage
Rose pink
Rouge red
Superleur u; uallyjust shghtl higher m ulcohol
Vlellles vlgnes old vines and therefore 11
1
theory denM'r
win , though the " o ld" 1; unregulut<'d
Vlgneron v 111 c · gruwc rand or wine produce r
VIiiages ouffix dcnulmg selected commu n es,
or pa1 i h l lf!N, "1thrn an appellation
Vin wine
Vltlculteur ' 1 nc-gro"er
which grape varieties may be grown, the
maximum crop per hectare (yield), minimum
grape ripeness, how the vines are grown, and
to a certai n extent how the wine is made.
There 1s much d1scuss1on about whether the
much- 1m1tated AOC regulations 8l"e a national
treasure or an unnecessarily restrictive
stra1tiacket, stifling experimentation and
handicapping France in its rivalry wrth the
products of the much more liberal New World. �
On the map we show the most important
AOCs and IGPs (see panel) that are not shown
on the more detailed maps on the following
pages other than the 25 IGPs that coincide
exactly with departements.
COTES- D ' ARM<
lntemat1onal boundary
06partement boundary
PAY S D'OC Regional IGP/Vin de Pays
Agenals
IGP/Vin de Pays
0
Chief town of departement
lfarcillal
Appellation not mapped elsewhere
Centre of appellation area
- Champagne (pp 80-83)
Alsace (pp 124-127)
- Loire Valley (pp 116 -123)
- Burgundy (pp 54-79)
MORBl 'HAN
- Jura , Savoie and Bugey (pp. 150-152)
- Bordeaux (pp 84-112)
Southwest (pp 113-115)
RhOne (pp 128-139)
- Languedoc (pp 140-143)
- Rousslllon (pp 144-145)
- Provence (pp 146· 148)
c=i
Corsica (p 149)
Proportional symbols
Area of vineyard per dapartement
in thousands of hectares, 2016
<no figure given If area <l,00
0
hectares)

1 3,625,00
0
k�
O
�����
.l0
.._�-.
.
�1�
00
����
1•
.lO
..
.,
Km
-0
.lO
IOOMl!o
o
0
J
Cherbdurg
_!N
ESPANA
0
Calais ,
\.
•I
l""ANCI
Luxembourg mak•• fight, crisp win •• from
Rlvaner (Mull• r-Thurgau) and all three
Pinots from well OV9r 2,600 acres (1,000ha)
of vineyard• on th• banks of th• Mose/le.
DIUTSCHLAND
DOUBS I
,.
.
)
/
/
SCHWEIZ
Lanp1doc lllPs/Vlns d1 Pays
1 St·GIUl#l
ll
..J.-Dbtlrt
2l'tcomtil/..
..,
,,.
J<:bf#.7lolw
w
4Col«INx#IJIMra
J CotaMxd11""
"-
'•
D
'

Burgu ndy
If Paris is France's head and Champagne
her soul, Burgundy is her stomach. It 1s
a land of long, celebratory meals, richly
fu rnished with the best mate rials (Charo lais
beef to the west, Bresse chickens to the
east, super-creamy cheeses such as
Chaource and Epolsses all rou nd) It was the
richest ofthe ancient duchies of France, and
as a wine region has one ofthe world's
longest h1stor1es. Burgundy 1s not one big
vineyard, but the name of a province that
contains several disti nct and eminent wine
regions By far the richest and most
important Is the C6te d'Or, Burgu ndy's
heart, and ancestral home of Chardonnay
and P1not No1r, composed of the C6te de
Beaune to the south and the C6te de Nulta
to the north In any ot her context the
Chardonnay of Chablis, the reds and
white& of the C6te Chalonnal••. and
the white of the Mlconnala (all eq ually
part of Burgundy) wo uld m themselves be the
stars Immediately south of the Maconna1s 1s
Beaujolais, quite different from Burgundy m
scale, style, soil, and grape (see pp.72-75).
For all Its ancient fa me and riches, Burgundy
still fe els simple and rustic. There is hardly
a grand house from one end of the Cote d'Or
to the ot her - and the people whose names
are on the label may well prune the vines and
drive the tractor themselves Most of the
few big landholdings, those ofthe Church,
were broken up by Napoleon. Burgundy 1s
sti ll one ofthe most fragmented of France's
important vineyards. The average domame,
as a grower's various vineyards are called,
may be bigger than 1t used to be, but 1s still
a mere 173acres (7ha)
The fragmentation of Burgundy 1s the
cause of the single great drawback of its
wine its unpred1ctablhty From the
geographer's point of view the human fa ctor
Dawn in the white wine village ofPultgny, which
long ago added the name of its most fa mous
vineyard, Montrachet, as a suffix to its name
- in the Cote d'Or trad1t1on
1s unmappable, and m Burgundy, even more
than In most places, 1t needs to be given the
limelight Thanks to the inheritance laws,
most cltmats (plots of vmes) are far med by
many different growers ow ning multiple
rows ofvines m different cl1mats. Monopoles,
or whole vineyards m the hands of one
owner, are rare exceptions (see p.64) Even
the smallest grower has parcels In two or
three vineyards Bigger ones may own a
total of 50 100 acres (20-40 ha) spread in
small lots ac ross a score ofvineyard s
throughout the C6te d'Or Clos de Vougeot's
125 acres (50 ha) are divided among as
many as 80 growers.
For this ve ry reason a good half of
burgundy Is still bought In barrel from
the grower when 1t 1s new by negoclanta
(or shippers), who may blend It with other
wines from the same appellation to ac hieve
marketable quant1t1es of a 'Standard wine

This Is offered to the world not as the
product of a specific grower, whose
production of that particular wine may be
onlyacaskortwo, butasthe wine ofa
given AOC (be 1t as specific as a vineyard
or as vague as a village) e/eve - l iterally,
reared by the shipper.
Reputations of the larger negociants vary
en ormously, but Bouchard Pere et Fils,
Joseph Drouhm, Faiveley, Louis Jadot, and
Louis Latour (for its best whites) have long
been re hable, wh ile B1chot, Bo1sset, and
Chanson have all improved enormously
recently. Most of the larger negociants
are now significant vineyard owners
themselves . The end of the 20th century
also saw an increasing number of ambitious
s maller- scale negoc1ants offering some of
Burgundy's best wines and, as land val ues
reach unattai nable levels, many respected
growers also run their own negoc1ant
business in paral lel.
Burgundy's appellations
There are more than 80 AOCs in Burgundy.
Most refer to geographical areas and
appear in detail on the following pages. Built
into these geographical appellations 1s a
qual ity class1ficat1on that 1s practically
a work ofart in 1tself (explained in detail on
p.58). However, the following appellations
can be applied to wine made from grapes
grown in any part of Burgundy, including
vrneyards within fam ous communes whose
soil and situation are below par· Bourgogne
(for Pinot No1r or Chardonnay), with
subdivisions such as the more specific
Bourgogne C6te d'Or, Bourgogne
Passetoutgrains (for a mixture of Gamay
with at least a third Pinot Norr), and
Bourgogne Aligote (for the relatively tart
wine made from Burgu ndy's secondary white
grape). The Coteaux Bourgulgnons
appel lation encompasses all vineyard s
mapped here plus, controversially, declassified
Beaujolais and/or blends thereof
BURGUNDY: DI.JON
La titude / Elevation of WS
47.27° / 718ft (219m)
Average growing >ea on temperature at WS
60.3°F (15.7°C)
Average annual ra infall at WS
29.9in (761 mm)
Harvest month rainfal l at WS
September: 2 .5in (65mm)
Prrnc 1pa l vi ticulturaJ haznrd
Frost, disease (especially mildew),
autumn rain
Principal grape va r1t'li (· s
R: Pinot Noir, Gamay ; W : Chardonnay, Aligote
"
Chablis
- Chablis Grand and Premier Cru
Chablis
Vmli1n
Bourgogne Vl!zelay
Cllte di Nulls
-
COie de Nu1ts
Hautes-COtes de Nu1ts
Cllte di luURI
- COte de Beaune
- Hautes·COles de Beaune
Couchols
Bourgogne COies
du Couchols
COi• Chalonnalse
-
Mlconnal1
- Pou11ly-Ful554!
Macon-Vlllaaes
-
M�con
l11ujol1ls
Beaujolais-VIiiages
Beaujolais
Morgon Principal wine commune
•
DD Area mapped at larger
scale on paae shown
..
.
Weather station CWS)
•I•
09
94
s
7
Gueugnon
0
Semur� en �
Bnonnais
�harl1eu
fevrs/
BURGUNDY
·
FRANCE
51
BU l'tGUNDY'I WINE l'tEGIONI
It ls 138 mil•• (222km) from Chabli• to
the southern limit of S.aujolal• and both
climate and soll• vary con•lderably
throughout 1reater Buriundy. But what
all subre&lons havs In common i• fidelity
to the fo ur cloHly related grapH listed
In the key facts panel below, and a
hands-on approach in vineyard and cellar.
KmO
Mtlo.O
I 1,00
0
,00
0
JO
20
JO
T"'>"'•\ o
St-Se 1ne-
I'Abbaye Val Suzon
JO
'"1Km
20Mtlo
o
/l'lon<;Y
•I
-
0Arc sur Tille
,_,._�.'"
"'"'
i
j
on
09fo/e
•I•
0 Chah llon sur­
Cholaronne
Vi l lars les-
Dombes<i
Chala�t
ve&1lleu c;.,
,.
..
-

•
I
8
c
c
o
0
..
E
'
'
•
56
FRANCE ·BURGUNDY
Cote d'Or
The "Colden slope" heartland of Burgundy,
making some of the world's most sought­
after and expensive reds and dry whites.
Te rrolr Complex mix dominated by
limestone with marl and some clay.
Climate Relatively cool and damp, but
warm, even hot, summers are increasingly
common.
Grape varieties R: Pinot Noir and a little
Gamay; W: Chardonnay and some Aligote
Wine lovers round the world understandably
fe el a certai n reverence towards the rather
commonplace-looking ridge that is the Cote
d'Or One is bound to wo nder at the fact that
a few small parcels of land on this hill give
superlative wines, each with its own strong
personality, and that others do not Surely
one can discover the factors that d1stmgu1sh
one parcel from another - affording some
grapes more sugar, thicker skins, or
ge neral ly more character and d1stmct1on?
One can. And one cannot. Soil and subsoil
have been analysed time and again.
Te mperat ure and humidity and wind
direction have been recorded; wines have
been minutely analysed.. yet the central
mystery remai ns. One can only put down
certain physical fac ts, and place beside them
the reputations of the great wines. No one
has yet proved conclusively how the two are
connected (eve n 1fwine-lovmg geo logists
have been attracted to the Cote d'Or like
moths to a flame)
The Cote hes along an important geological
fa ult line where the seabed deposits of
several different geological epochs, each rich
in calcium, are exposed like a sliced layer cake
(see opposite). Exposure has weathered
their rocks into soils of different ages
and textures; the varying degrees
\
Aval/on
of slope have mixed them m
diffe rent proportions.
The small valleys,
locally called
combes, which lie
at right angles
to the C6te
add var1at1ons
to the mix
and, often , a
c ool ing
influence The
elevation ofthe
mid- 1lope Is
rou1hly constant
at about 820ft:
(260 m). Hlih•r, on
I•
thethinly soiled hard rock cap ofthe hill, the
climate Is harsher, and grapes ripen later.
Lower, where the so1l 1s more alluvial,
deeper, and moister, the risk offrost and
disease 1s greater.
The Cote fac es east with a bias to the
south, locally skewed (especially m the
southern half, the Cote de Beaune) to fu ll
south and even west expos.ure. Along its
lower part, generally about a third of the
way up, runs a narrow outcrop of marlstone,
making calcareous clay soil. Marl by itself
would be too rich a soil for the h ighest­
qual ity wine, but m combination with the
stones and scree washed down from the
hard limestone higher up 1t 1s perfect.
Erosion continues the blending below the
actual outcrop, the distance depending
on the angle ofincline
In the Cote de Beau ne the marly
outcrop, or Argov1en, 1s wider and
higher on the hill; instead of a
narrow strip of vineyard under a
beetling brow of limesto ne,
there 1s a broad and ge ntle
slope for vineyards to climb.
The vines al most reach
the scrubby peak m
places, and m these
"<'
mind - once thought too cool for top ·quality
white wine prod uction have definitively
come into their own .
Burgundy was for long
the northernmost
area In Europe to
produce great
red wine. It is
vital that the
Plnot No1r vines
ripen before
the cold and
CurleyO
warmer times some
higher land 1s being
(re?)converted to the
Fussey o
'l:- Morey­
�es· Fustey
vine. Indeed, some
villages - St-Aubin
springs most
readily to
Movolly- 0
Mandelol
Melo1seyo
�
Q.
RuJI
Echevro nne o
�partement boundary
C=:J cote d'Or
c=
=i
Hautes-cot
es
rsi'
Area mapped at larger
�
scale on Pllfl shown
Cross-section
A-
-
A(se
e
opf)OSlte pa11el
I 220,00
0
Km0__._..,.
..
.
_
..
.,.
__
51(.,
Ml
lo
o
O
3Mit.
THE COTES AND HAUTIS·COTEI
Just below the Hautes-C6te1, or hich slopes,
the C6te d'Or Is a 1olden slope Indeed; Its !\nest
and rarest wines ind uce 10 many wine lovers to
pay handsome prices for almost anything
produc:
:
edthere.Th•blackllnMA,B,C,andD
show the locations of th• fo ur cross-sections In
the panel opposite

damp of autumn set in The chmate peculiar
to each vineyard, the so· called mesocltmate,
1n combination with the physical structure
of the land, h as the most decisive effect
The other, unmappable, quality fa ctor i s the
grower's choice of vines and the way they
are pru ned and trai ned. There are more o r
leas vtgo rous clones of the clas sic var1et1es,
and a grower who chooses the most
prod uctive, prunes inadequately, or
over-fertilizes the soil compromises quality
Today, however, the pursuit of q ualtty pays
higher d1v1dends, and growers are
increasingly aware of the need to revitalize
the soil after years of overuse of
agrochemicals. High- profile Burgundians
were some of France's first bastions of
b1odynam1c v1t1culture .
SLICING UP THE COTE D'OR
MapplftS the C6te
The C6te d'Or is mapped in more detail
here than any other wine region, partly
because of its singular pattern of varying
mesocltmates and soils, but also because
of its unique history Of all regions, this
1s the one where wine qualtty has been
st udied the longest - certainly si nce
the 12th century, when Cisterc1an and
Benedictine monks al ready dist1ngu1shed
one cru from another
In the 14th and 15th centuries the Val ois
dukes of Burgundy did everything possible
to encourage and profit by the region's
wines. Every generation since has ad ded to
the sum of local knowledge that is expressed
in the climats and crus of the hills that
stretch from D1ion to Chagny.
Cl>te d'Or BURGUNDY • ll'"ANCI
IT
The map opposite gives the essential
ove rview At the top of the not-very-
1mpress1ve hills, the pale mauve patches on
the left/west of the map, 1s a broken plateau
with abrupt scarps (steep hills) where
geological fa ult lines protrude. This 1s the
Haut••·C6te1, d1v1ded into those of Beau ne
and those of Nu1ts, rising to over 1,300 ft
(400 m), and subiect to lower temperat ures
and exposure that puts their harvest a good
week behind the C6tes below.
This is not to say that in their more
sheltered east- and south-fac ing combes
the P1not No1r and Chardonnay vines cannot
produce ge neral ly ltghtish but sometimes
fine wines oftrue C6te d'Or character
In exceptionally fine summers such as 2015,
the Hautes- Cotes, like the cooler corners
These cro s - s e c t1on through four great vineyard erve a illu tration of
the Cote d 'Or' va nabiltty. The surface soil derive from the rock both under
it and higher up the hill. In G evrey- C h ambcrt in immature soil or re ndzina
persists low down until the layer of marl to n e . The be t vine ard , or clim al
The hill ofCorton has a broad band of marlstone almost to the top; the be;t
vineyards are on 1t. But on thb tcep grad ient growers co nstantly have to
ollect oil from the bottom and carry 1t back up the slope V\'here limestone
debri fa ll fro m a bove, white wine 1s grown (Corton- harlemagne)
( hambe rtm) , lie in a w e ll-s heltered position on and below the marlstone
in good calcareous brown earth on lime tone. A mixture of soil co ntinues on
to the plain, provid inggood vineyard land, but not ofGrand or Premier Cru
clas . At Vo ugcot the marlstone outcrop tw i ce. Below the top outcrop i
Grands E c h ezeaux; on and below Lhe econd 1 Clos de Vo ugeot.
A Gevrey-Chambertm
B Vougeot
C Aloxe-Corton
D Meu rsault
Soil
Skeletal calcareous brown earth
Normal calcareous brown earth
Skeletal gley calcareous brown earth
Normal gley calcareous brown earth
- Brown earth
Rendzi nas (Immature SOi is)
T T Limits of vineyard area
Rock
- Quaternary pebbles
- Loess
-
-
-
Upper Oligocene (various
limestones, sandstones and claystones)
Raurac1an (Upper Oxford lan)
Argov1an (Middle Oxford 1an marlstone)
Upper Bathon1an and Callov1an
(soft limestone. claystone and shale)
Lower and Middle Bathonian
(hard limestone)
- Upper Bajoc 1an (marlstone)
- Lower Bajoclan (sandy limestone)
- Lower Jurassic and older
t Meursau lt the marlstone t aga 111 high , nd broad but its benefit ts fe lt
lower down, where it form stony so tl on a limestone outcrop Thebe t
vine ard are on this convex ramp Each climat 1s so thrillingly and
pred1catably di tmct that E CO ha made the whole of the Cote d'Or
a Wo rld Heritage 1te .

•
•
'
'
58
FRANCE · BURGUNDY C6te d'Or
ofthe Cote d'Or itself, can produce
exceptional wine The best communes in the
Hautes-C6tes de Beaune include Nantoux,
Echevronne, La Rochepot, and Melo1sey,
in the Hautes-C6tes de Nu1ts, where red
wines dominate, Marey-les-Fussey, M agny­
les-V1llers, Villars-Fontaine, and Bevy
At the southern tip of the Cote de Beau ne
1s the relatively new AOC Maranges,
responsible for delicate reds from the three
communes iust west of Santenay bearing
the suffix - les- Maranges
Vineyard classification
The class1ficat1on of the quaht1es of the land
in the Cote d'Or 1s the most elaborate on
earth, fu rther complicated by slight
diffe rences in nomenclature and spelling
among different producers. Based on
codifications go ing back to the mid-19th
century, 1t divides the vineyards into four
classes and st ipulates the precise labelling
of each wine acc ordingly.
Grands Crus are the first class, of which
31 are effe ctively in operation today, mainly
in the Cote de Nu1ts (see pp 64-67) Each
Grand Cru has its own appellation. The
RICHEBOURG VINEYARD OWNERSHIP
single, simple vineyard name - Mus1gny,
Corton, Montrachet, or Chamberti n
(someti mes prefixed by "Le") - 1s the patent
of Burgundy's highest nobility.
Premiers Crus, the next ran k, use the name
of their commune, fo llowed by the name of
the vineyard (or, 1fthe wine comes from more
than one Premier Cru vineyard, the commune
name plus the words "Pre'!1 1er Cru")
Examples would be, respectively,
"Chambolle- Mus1gny, (Les) Chartnes" or, 1f
the wine were a blend between Charmes
and another Premier Cru vi neyard or two
in Chambolle, then the name would be
"Chambolle-Mus1gny Premier C ru ". Some
Premiers Crus are better than others, which
1s hardly surprising since Burgundy has 635
in all. Perr1eres in Meursau lt and Rug1ens in
Pommard, as we ll as Les Amoureuses in
Chambolle-Musigny and Clos St-Jacques in
Gevrey-Chambertin, can command prices
higher than lesser Grands Crus such as
Clos de Vougeot and Corton
Appellation Communale 1s the third ran k·
that 1s, with the right to use a com mune
name such as Meursau lt . These wines are
often referred to as "vi llage" wines The
Cote d'Or vine holdings tend to be long and narrow,
sometime JUSl a few rows of v mes. As on all our
Burgu ndy map we give the fu ll, original name of each
parcel. The c ool est , h1ghe t Ve rro1lles parcel of vines
was mcorporated into Richebourg in J 936, the
Ve ro11listes presumably not bemg averse to being
allowed to u e the smarter, more val uable name.
/
/
/
Typically "The Doma ine" (de la Rom anee-Conti),
which owns the richest array of the extraordmary
wealth of Grand rus to the west and north of the
little village of Vos ne- Roma n ee , has the lion' hare
of this part icular Grand Cru The Domame's various
parcels were acquired in eve ral separate transa t1onb,
as the map suggests.
Domame Leroy' holdrngs were acquired when
Madame Lalou Bize - Lcroy took ove r Domaine harlcs
Noellal 111 1988 The three Gros men t ioned 111 the key
b low are byno means the onlyvine-growing members
of th1s extend d fmr nly ' uch i Burgundy.
Domaines
- C los Frant1n
/1-
-
- Meo Camuzet
Gros f r�re et Soeur
L=:J AF Gros
Anne G ros
- Doma1ne de la Romanee·Conti
c=J Leroy
- Mongeard Mugneret
c Gnvot
- Hud lot Not>llat
- Th11Jaull lt r B lair
I•
l 3,80
0
..o
�o
name of a specific vineyard, or Heu -d1t, 1s
permitted - and increasingly used - on the
label of these wines, but 1t must be prmted
in smaller type than the commune name.
A few such vineyards such as, m Meuraault,
Te ssons and Cheval ieres, while not offtclaJly
Premiers Crus, can be considered to be In
the same class.
Fo urth, there are less propitiously srted
vineyards even w1thm some fa mous
communes - designated "Other vineyard" on
our detai led maps (typically on lower-lying
land east of the main road, the 0974) - which
have only the right to call their wine
Bourgogne. Their produce may be clearly
inferior, but not by any means always. There
are growers here who offer some ofthe
Cote d'Or's rare bargai ns.
The consumer must remember to
d1stingu1sh the name of a vineyard from
that of a commune. Many villages (Vosne,
Chassagne, Gevrey, etc) have affi xed their
name to that of their best vineyard . The
difference between Chevali er- Montrachet
(from one fa mous vineyard) and a Chassagne­
Montrachet (from anywhere in that big
commune) 1s not obvious, but it 1s vital.
les
Verro1 lles
OU
Rlchebourgs
•oom
•I

Southern Cote de Beaune
Th• maps on this and th• followln1 •ilht
pqea trace th• vineyards of th• C6te d'Or
from south to north so that the pages can
be flipped to provide a continuous
l•Olf'&phlcal picture. Unusual ly for this
Atlas, the or1entat1on of the maps has been
turned through between 45 and 90 degrees
so that in each section the intricacies of the
Cote lie ac ross the page
The C6te de Beau ne starts without a
great explosion of famous names. It leads
in gradually to the increasingly celebrated
commune of Santenay. After the hamlet
of Haut-Santenay and the little town of
Bas - Santenay (a spa frequented by local
bons viveurs>. the Cote half-turns to take
up its character1st1c slope to the east
This southern end of the Cote de Beaune
1s the most confused geological ly, and in
many ways 1s aty pical of the Cote as a whole
In Santenay complex fa ults 1n the structure
of the hills make rad ical changes of soil and
subsoil. Part of the commune is analogous
to parts ofthe Cote de Nu1ts, giving
deep-flavo ured, 1f not exquisitely fine, red
wine with a long life Other parts give light
wine, some white, more typical of the Cote de
Beau ne. The best climats are Les Grav1eres
(the name refers to the stony ground,
as the name Graves does in Bordeaux),
Clos de Tavannes, and La Comme
Northwards into Chaasagne- M ontrachet,
the qual ity of these excellent red wine
vineyards 1s confirmed. The name of
Montrachet 1s so firmly associated with
white wine that few people expect to find
red here at all But most vineyards on the
south side ofChassagne grow at least
some red wine; Morgeot, La Boudr1otte,
and (overleaf) Clos St-Jean are the most
fa mous These red wines are naturally
tough, tasting more l i ke a rustic Gevrey-
"
"
"'
Chamberti n than, say, a Volnay, although the
tendency nowadays 1s to vin1fy them in a way
that pr1or1t1zes suppleness over structu re.
V1s1ting at around the time of the French
Revolution, Thomas Jefferson reported that
white wi ne- growers here had to eat hard rye
bread , while red wine-growers could afford 1t
soft and wh ite But Le Montrac het (mapped
overleaf) had been fam ous for wh ite wine
since the 16th century, and at least part of
the village's soil 1s much better suited to
Chardonnay than to Pinot No1r
White wine-growing real ly took over in
the second halfofthe 20th century, when
the world fe ll in love with Chardonnay.
Nowadays, Chassagne-Montrachet is known
to the world chiefly for its dry but succulent,
golden white wine scented with flowers
or sometimes hazelnuts.
Commune (parish) boundary
Appellation boundary
"
e&eoune
SA NTENAY AND
CHASSAGNE·MONTRACHET
In contrast to most of the Cote d'Or, many
ofSantenay's vineyards face due south and
some even face west. Like the southern end
ofChauegne-Montrachet, they can produce
both rad and white wines. The northern end
ofChasaagne, one ofthe prime hunting
treunds for wflfte burgundy at its grandest,
Is mapped overleaf.
1 25,00
0
,.�
I•
1•
"
'
"
.,
"'
Q
,?.'
<>
Cholon·sur-
SaOne •
- Premier Cru vineyard
Commune appellation vineyard
�"
"
c=i Other vineyard
Woods
2,s- Contour interval 5 metres
+ Internal vineyard boundary
••
c
0
0
T

c
0
80
FFIANCE · BURGUNDY
Central Cote de Beau ne
The east-facing vineyards mapped on this
pace, and those south ofMeursault on the
opposite pace, are the source of the best
white wine In Burgundy - for many, the
best dry white wine in the world.
The Grand Cru Montrachet earns its fa me
by an incredible concentrat ion ofthe qualities
of white burgundy At its incomparable best
1t has (given 10 years) more scent, a brighter
go ld, a longer flavour, more succulence and
yet more density than any Chardonnay on
Earth, everything about 1t 1s intensified - the
mark of truly great wine. Perfect exposure
to the east, yet an angle that means the sun
1s sti ll flood ing down the rows at nine on a
summer evening, and a sudden streak of
limestone, are the fa ctors that give 1t an
edge over its neighbours Demand for this
1llustr1ous wine so greatly exceeds supply,
howeve r, that expensive disappointments
are not unknown And, indeed, the reputation
ofwhite burgundy m general was severely
dented in the early years of th1s centu ry
when drinkers noted a tendency for wine to
ox1d1ze after only a few years 1n bottle.
Chevalier- Montrach et , JU St above on a
steeper, higher slope, tends to have less
depth but thrillingly crystaU me precision.
Batard -Montrachet, just below, hes on
heavier ground and depends more on
richness than finesse Les Cr1ots Cm
Chassagne), and Bienvenues belong m the
same class - as at their best do the Puligny
Premiers Grus Les Pucelles, Les Combettes,
Les Fo lat1eres, and Le Ca1lleret - and the
best of Meursau lt's Les Perr1eres.
There 1s a real distinction between
Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, even
though the vineyards of the one flow without
a break into the ot her. In fact, the hamlet of
Blagny - which makes excellent wine high
up on stony soil - 1s m both, and boasts a
typically complicated appellation; depending
on colour and location, the vi neyards can be
Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault·
Blagny, or (for reds) plarn Blagny,
rn eac h case almost all at
Premier Cru level.
Puligny tends to be more
delicate and refi ned than
Meursau lt, not least
because the water table
here 1s higher and it is
more difficult to dig cellars
deep enough for the wines to
be intensified by a second
winter in cask Overall,
Meursau lt has less br1lhant
d1stmct1on (and no Grand Cru) but a
very high, and generally even, standard
over a large area. Les Perr1eres, the upper
parts of Les Genevrieres, and Les Charmes
offer the sternest challenge to Puhgny's best
Premiers Grus; Porusot and Gouttes d'Or
provide a nutt ier, broader, mainstream
Meursault experience. Narvaux and Tillets,
e&eaune
Commune (pansh) boundary
Appellation boundary
1 25,00
0
KmO
lKm
1-
-
��������..
..
..,
..
..
.
��
M.lo.O
l/2M.lo
Chalon• sur·
SaOne •
- Grand Cru vineyard
-
Premier Cru vineyard
Commune appellation vineyard
[=:J Other vineyard
t
Vineyard part-owned by the
Hospices de Beaune
Woods
Contour interval 5 metres
Internal vineyard boundary
t

f±!agny
Even St-Romain,
much higher than
most C6te d'Or
communes, 1s
making
respectable lig ht
reds and
particularly
con vincing white
wines in the
warmer summers
that Burgundy
has been
experiencing.
11
JUSt higher on the hill, make slightly crisper,
but also intense, ageworthy wines
The busy village of Meursault itselfhes
ac ross another dip in the hills where roads
lead up to Auxey-Duresses and Monthelle,
both sources of a litt le white wine and plenty
of good red, which 1s less highly valued
(being shorter-lived) than Volnay, and
therefore often a bargain. Behind Auxey lies
St-Romain, a promoted former Hautes-C6tes
village prod ucing light red and increasingly
interesting white wines in warmer years.
Meursault in turn flows into Volnay Much
red wine 1s grown on this side ofthe commune,
but 1t 1s called Vo lnay -Santenots rather than
Meursau lt Vo lnay and Meursault sometimes
The C6te d 'Or 's vines get very personal
treatment, often in the hands of a world
fa mous producer who 1s courted by wine
collectors fr om New Yo rk to Hong Kong
draw as near together as red and white
can without being rose: both soft, very
fragrant, the red rather pale yet with a
long, perfumed aftertaste
lfVo lnay makes one of the Cote's lighter
reds 1t can also produce some ofthe most
brilliant H1stor1cally 1t was rated best of the
C6te de Beaune, and the first to be ready to
drink. Longest-lived are the Clos des Chenes
and Caillerets, the great names here.
Champans, Bousse d'Or, and Ta1 lle P1eds are
close behind, while the steep l ittle Clos des
Dues 1s the best cflmat on the north side of
the village. For the riches of ne1ghbour1ng
Pommard , see ove rleaf
I•

•
I
.!
82
FRANCE · BURGUNDY
Commune (parl9h) boundary
Appellation boundary
- Grand Cru vineyard
t
Vineyard part-owned by the
Hospices de Beaune
Woods
- Premier Cru vineyard
-�25 -
+
Contour Interval 5 metres
Internal vineyard boundary
Commune appellation vineyard
c=J Other vineyard
1 25,00
0
Chalon·sur..
SaOne •
Km0
IKm
1-
--
�������
..
..
.
�--
-o
M1lo. O
1/2 Molo
Northern Cote de Beau ne
You mlP,t expect the Pommard vineyards
borderlnl Voln� (mapped on the previous
pace) to itv• th• most Voln�·llke, fragrant,
and ethereal wines. But Bur1undy, as ever,
fo xes expectations. The commune bou ndary
marks a soil change that makes Les Rugiens
(ruddy, as its name suggests, with 1ron- r1ch
earth) Pommard's standard bearer fo r a
different style entirely· dark, heady, tannic in
youth, and surprisingly long- lived. Many
vi neyard s entitled to the simple Pommard
village appellation, which make up about a
third of the commune, prod uce wines in this
style often short on grace and d1stinct1on
But there are two or three exceptional
Premiers Crus - above all Rugiens and
Epenots (someti mes spelt Epeneaux) and
four or five fine growers. In Burgundy even
more than anywhere else, the grower counts
at least as much as the vineyard Pommard's
most revered plot 1s the lower part of Les
Rugiens (Les Rug1ens- Bas on the map on p.61),
iust above the western edge of the village.
Dames de la Charita, one of the best cuvees
of Beau ne's annual auction (see below}, 1s
made mainly from Rug1ens and Epenots
combined. The Clos de la Commarai ne and
the wines of the growers de Courcel, Comte
Armand, and de Mont1lle are some of
Pommard's finest: sturdy wi nes that need 10
years to develop the lovely savoury character
of the best red burgundy
The focus ofthe vineyards mapped on these
pages, indeed arguably of the whole C6te d'Or,
1s the lively, wine-centric, ramparted medieval
town of Beaune, home to the fa mous
Hospices de Beaune charity wine auction each
November. In the string of fa mous vineyards
that occupy what the Burgu ndians call ''the
kidney of the slope", at about the BOOft
(245 m} hne above the town, a large proportion
belongs to the town's larger negoc1ants:
Bouchard Pere et Fils, Chanson, Drouhin,
Jadot, and LOUIS Latour among them.
Drouhln's part ofthe Clos des Mouches is
celebrated fo r both red and its exq uisite
white, while a part of Les Greves belonging
to Bouchard Pere et Fils is known as the
Vigne de l'Enfan t Jesu s and makes another
outstanding wine. No Beau ne 1s a Grand Cru;
the best is rarely overpriced, lasting well but
not demanding to be kept the 10 years or
more that a Romanee or Chambert1n would
Travelling north from Beaune, the ro unded
hill ofCorton looms with its dark cap of woods
Corton breaks the spell that prevents the
Cote de Beaune from having a red Grand Cru.

A small amount of white Corton is made,
but its great white Grand Cru 1s Corton­
Charlemagne, the western and southwestern
flanks ofthe hill, and a very different ribbon
of Chardonnay vineyards round the top ofthe
east flank, where debris from the limestone
top 1s washed down, whitening the brown
marly soil Corton-Charlemagne can
occasionally rival Montrachet.
The big, often fr wty, often tannic Corton
red is grown mostly on the east- and south­
fa c ing slopes, but the lower vineyards
produce much simpler wine and should
not have been classified Grand Cru. Top
red Cortons come only from Le Corton
itself, Les Bressandes, Le Clos du Roi, and
Les Renardes.
Aloxe·Corton 1s the appellation of the
lesser wi nes (mainly red) grown below the
hiff to the south, while Pernand-Verge lesses
round the back has some notably - sometimes
usefully - cooler east-fac ing Premier Cru
vineyards (red and white) as we ll as some of
the hill's west-facing Grand Cru slopes .
lf Savlgny and Pernand are slightly in the
background rt is only because the foreground
The town of8e aune'a •1gnature roof tiles, seen
here on the 15th-century Hospices de Beaune,
the or19mal charitable hospital for the
town.people, ben known toda,y for Its auction
of embryonic whw In barrel every November
Northern COte de Beaune BURGUNDY • , .. ANCI
U
1s so imposing. The best growers of both
make wines up to the highest Beaune
standard, now fu lly reflected in their price. Up
a side valley, Sav1gny, prod ucing wi nes that are
"Nourrissants, Th eologiques, et Morb1fuges"
according to local pubhc1ty, can be a marvel of
finesse Chorey lies on flat ground next to the
main road, but is nonetheless a useful source
ofapproachable red burgundy On the very
I•
edge of the map,
The Imposing wood­
crowned hll
l
of Corton
presents very varied
fa ces to the east,
south, and weat and Is
home to a Grand Cru
of each colour.
Ladoix prod uces
refreshingly mineral whites
Nu1ts St
Georges
and quite succulent reds Both
Pernand and Lado1x have the peculiarity
of having respectively some Premiers Crus,
such as Sous Fretille, Les Grechons, and Les
Joyeuses, for either white or red wine but not
both. The Cote d'Or thrives on complexity
'
f

•
•
64
FRANCE ·BURGUNDY
Southern Cote de Nuits
I
./..
More "stufftng", deeper colour, often
more tannin and longer life are the signs
of a C6te de Nults wine compared with a
Volnay or a Beaune. This 1s red wine
country, white 1s a rarity
The hne of Premiers Crus, wending its way
along the hills ofthe Cote de Nu1ts, 1s threaded
with clutches of Grands Crus. These are the
wines that express with most intensity the
inimitable sappy richness of Pmot No1r The
line follows the outcrop ofmarlstone below
the hard limestone hilltop, but 1t 1s where the
soil has a mixture of silt and scree over the
marl that the quality really peaks. Happily, this
corresponds time and again with areas that
enjoy the best shelter and most sun.
The wines of Premeaux (on the left margin
of the map below) go to market under the
name of Nults-St-Georges They are
finer- boned than the rest of the appellation,
especially such monopole vineyards as Clos
de l'Arlot and Clos de la Marechale. Les
Vaucrains and Les St-Georges (a climat many
think should be Grand Cru) Just over the
commune boundary produce tan nic wines
with tense, pos1t1ve flavours that demand
long bottle-age - somethingthat cannot be
said of most Cote de Nuits-V1llages, a1unior
appellation for the extreme northern and
southern ends of the Cote de Nu1ts.
1 25,00
0
,,
Beaune bustles with tourists; Nuits 1s
relatively quiet, but 1t 1s home to a number
of negociants, and the Nu1ts Premiers Crus
leading north into Vosne-Roman4'a are a
worthy introduction to tha.t extraordinary
parish Vos ne- Romanee 1s a modest little
village producing wines with notable energy.
Only its uncommon concentration of fa mous
names on the backstreet nameplates
suggests that the world's most expensive
wine hes beneath your fe et
The village stands below a long incline of
reddish earth, with the Romanee-St-Vivant
vineyard nearest the village. The soil is deep,
rich m clay and lime. Mid-slope 1s La Romanee­
Cont1, a site of frequent pilgrimage, with
poorer, shallower soil. Higher up, La Romanee
tilts more steeply; 1t seems drier and less
clayey On the right, the big vineyard of
Le R1chebourg (mapped m detai l on p.58)
curves around to fa ce east- northeast. Up
the left flank runsthe narrow strip ofLa
Grande Rue, and beside 1t the long slope of
La Tac he (including what was once cal led
Les Gaud1chots). All these produce some of
the most highly prized of all burgundies, the
most expensive wines m the world
Romanee-Cont1 and La Tac he are both
monopoles of the Domaine de la Romanee­
Cont1, which also has substantial holdings
.
Diion
....
..
.
_
..
.
..
..
..
.
....
.
..
.
....
.
in both R1chebourg and Romanee·St·Vlvant
(and Echezeaux, Grands Echezeaux - and
now Corton - fo r good measu re). For the
finesse, the velvety warmth combined with
a suggestion of spice, the almost oriental
opule nce of their wines, the market wtll
seemingly stand any price. Romanee-Contl
1s considered the most perfect ofall, but
the entire group has a fa mily likeness: the
result of vineyard location, small crops,
particularly prec ious old vines, late picking,
and inordinate care.
Clearly one can look among their neighbours
for wines of s1m1lar character at less
stupendous prices (though all too similar
in the case of Domame Leroy). All the other
named vineyards of Vosne-Romanee are
splendid. Indeed, one ofthe old textbooks
on Burgundy remarks drily: "There are no
common wines m Vosne." The Premier Cru
Malconsorts JUSt south ofLa Tac he deserves
special mention.
The big, some would say too big, 90-acre
(36- ha) Echezeaux Grand Cru - which
includes most of the violet cltmats around
that marked Echezeaux du Dessus on the
map - and the smaller Grands Echezeaux are
real ly in the commune of Flagey, a village
too far east to feature on our map and which
has been absorbed (at least oenologically)
into Vos ne Grands Echezeaux has more
regularity, more ofthe lingering intensity
that marks the very great burgundies, and
certai nly higher prices.
Commune (parish) boundary
Appellation boundary
- Grand Cru vineyard
Premier Cru vineyard
Commune appellation vineyard
c=:J Other vineyard
Woods
250 - Contour interval 5 metres
+ Internal vineyard boundary
DD Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
•I

Ve ry little wine carries the appellat1nr
Vougeot , but a veat deal I made from
the 125 ac re (50 ha) Cloe de Vou1eot "
sea of vines also known as Clos Vougeot
surrounded by a high stone wall, the s ure
sign of a monastic vineyard The whole
vi neyard Is c l ass lfled as a Grand Cru, but
prices vary as much as both style and
quality - and are always considerably lower
than the ari stocracy of Vosne The
C1sterc 1ans used to blend wine of the top,
middle, and sometimes bottom slopes to
make what we must believe was one of the
best burgundies of all and one of the most
consistent, since in dry years the wine from
lower down would have an advantage, as in
wet years would the top slopes As a
general rule, the middle and especially
highest points of the slope tend to produce
the best wine today, but there can certainly
be exceptions. The name of the grower, as
ever, must be your guide.
In the northwest corner of th1s famous
vineyard 1s the medieval "chateau" that 1s
the headquarters of the Confrerie des
Cheval iers du Tastevin, with their
boisterous fe asts, red and gold robes, and
chapters all over the world. The ch!teau 1s
virtually overlooked by the Grand Cru of
Mus1gny. It stands apart from the other
vineyard s of Chambolle- M usigny, squeezed
in under the tree-capped limestone crest,
obviously more closely related to the top of
the Clos de Vougeot and Grands Echezeaux
Itwasonlyin 1992thatLa
Grande Rue (4 acres/1.6ha)
was officially accorded
Grand Cru status. Land
swaps withDomainede la
Romane
e
-COnt1 involving
the Premier Cru
Gaudichots mean that
La Tdc he currently has
15acres (6ha)
than to the vineyard s n orth of Chambolle
such as Bonnes Mares The slope 1s steep
enough to obhge the v1gnerons to carry
the brown hmey clay, heavy with pebbles,
back up the hill after prolonged rai ny
weather This and the permeable hmestone
subsoil allow excellent drainage . Conditions
are iust right for a wine with plenty of body.
The glory of Mus1gny 1s that it covers
its undoubted power with a lovely, haunting
dehcacy of perfume. a uniquely sensuous
savour. A great Mus1gny makes what is
so well described as a "peacock's tai l" in
your mouth, opening to reveal ever more
ravishing patte rns of flavour. It is not as
strong as Chambertin, not as spicy as
Roman ee-Conti, but it fu lly warrants 10-20
years' ageing - and its alarming pri ce.
••
Wine lovers the world over would almost kill
for access to this cellar, tha t of the Domaine
de la Rom anee- Conti, darling of the saleroom,
yet so simple.
Bon nes Mares, with pale soil in its western
halfand red in the east, 1s the other Grand
Cru of Chambolle. It starts as a to ugher
wine than Mus1gny, and never quite ac hieves
the tender grace of its neighbour Les
Amoureuses - its name perfectly expressive
of the wine - 1s among the best Premiers
Crus of Burgundy and 1s in effect an honorary
Grand Cru But any Chambolle 1s likely to be
memorable As the climate here gets slowly
warmer, qual ity seems to be migrati ng uphill,
with many a Cras and Fuees as sought-after
today as a Les Charmes.
-- ---
---
.
......
.
�·
..,.·
,,.
D
T

A
I
D
'
'
r
'
0
68
FRANCE ·BURGUNDY
1 25,00
0
----
--�
ontagne de
la Combe ""
"'G
risard
Northern Cote de Nuits
The finest, longest-living, and eventually
most velvety red burgundies are made
at this northern end of the C6te d'Or.
Nature adds rich soil to the perfect
combination of shelter and exposure
provided by the hills. The narrow marlstone
outcrop, overlaid with silt and scree, follows
the lower slopes From 1t Chambertin and
the Grands Crus of Morey and Chambolle­
Musigny draw their power· wines ofweight
and muscle, unyielding when yo ung, but the
best will offer unmatched complexity and
depth offlavo ur when mature.
The commune of Morey-St-Den is 1s
overshadowed in renown by its four Grands
Crus, plus a little slice of Chambolle's Bonnes
Mares. Clos de la Roche, with little Clos
St- Dems (which gave its name to the village),
are wines ofgreat staying power, strength,
and depth, fed by soil rich in limestone
The Clos des Lambrays is a monopole
making particularly seductive wines that
was promoted to Grand Cru rank in 1981
and abaorbed into the LV MH luxury goods
empire in 2014 Cloa de Tart next door
acquired lta fourth ow ner in nine centuries
in 2017: the Pinault fa mily, who also own
first-growth Chateau Latour in Bordeau x .
Don't expect prices to fa ll. Morey has more
than 20 tiny Premiers Crus, few of whose
names are well known but whose general
standard 1s very high. The vineyards climb
the hill, finding soil higher than anywhere else
in the area. The lofty, stony Monts Lu1sants
even prod uces some excellent white wine.
Gevrey-Chambertln has a vast amount of
good land Suitable vineyard soil stretches
fu rther out from the hill here than
elsewhere; some east ofthe mai n road 1s still,
iust1fiably, appellation Gevrey-Cham bertin
rather than the more usual plain Bourgogne.
Its two greatest vineyards, Chambertin
and Clos de Beze, ac knowledged leaders
across the centuries, face east on a gentle
slope iust under the woods. In the vau lted
cellars of Domaine Armand Rousseau, for
many Gevrey's Holy Grail, they vary which
of the two is served last to visiting tasters
accord ing to each vintage's performance.
The constellation of adJoining vineyards -
Charmes, Mazoyeres, Griotte, Chapelle,
Mazls, Ruchottes, and Latr1c1eres - have
•
-
the right to add Chambertin after their
names, but not (like Clos de Beze) before.
Burgu ndian wine law can be more subtle
than theology.
The commune also has a slope 160ft (50 m)
higher with a superb southeast exposure
Its finest Premiers Crus - Cazetiers,
Lavaut St-Jacques, Varo1lles, and especially
Clos St-Jacques - are arguably peers of
the Grands Crus. There are more fa mous
ind1v1dual vineyards in this village than In
any other in Burgundy.
The slopes to the north, once cal led the
C6te de D1ion, were until the 18th century
considered to be among the best But
growers were tem pted to grow bulk wine
for the city and planted the "d isloyal" Gamay.
Broc hon, to the Immediate north of Gevrey,
became known as a "well of w1ne" . Today,
its southern edge 1s included in Gevrey ·
Chamberti n; the rest of its vineyards have
the right only to the appellation C6te de
N u1ts-V1llages.
Fixl n , however, has a trad1t1on of qual ity
with the Premiers Crus La Perr1ere, Les
Hervelets and Clos du Chap1tre potentially

,t,/most 500 acres (2 00ha) In the
commune of Couchey qualify as ,t,OC
Marsannay, but are not especially
.
dis tinguished (y et?) so are not
mapped here.
Diion
<Pf."
"
"""'"'
I
I
Rose accounts for just 1% of the
wine produced in Burgundy, but
it is a speciality ofMarsannay,
as the map key shows.
up to the standard of a Gevrey-Chambertin
Premier Cru Couchey, between F1xin and
Marsannay, is not mapped because rt has no
wine reputat ion to speak of, but Marsannay
1s increasingly respected It specializes in
some delicious, unusually ageworthy Pinot
No1r rose made from specially designated
vineyards, particularly those uphill of the
main road into D11on; plenty of red that rs
ofserious interest (especially to bargain
hunters); and a little, mostly ordinary,
white. The proportion of alluvial soils rs
rather higher here than on most of the
rest of the Cote d'Or, but the 1dent11icat 1on
of Premiers Crus is imminent They are
expected to include Clos du Roy, which
1s technically JU&t north ofMarsannay in
Chenove, now sadly under siege from the
industrial su burbs of D 11on .
Wi th more than 13 acres (5ha), Domaine Pierre
Damoy has by far the largest holding in the
Clos d• Beze. Every harvest, Damoy keeps the
best ofthe Grand Cru grapes for the domaine
and sells the rest to negoclants.
Northern C6te de Nu1ta BURGUNDY • ,.
.
ANCI
17
Commune (pansh) boundary
Appellation boundary
- Grand Cru vineyard
- Premier Cru vineyard
- Commune appellation vineyard
I
CllENOVE
...•••• �A�
..
..
...
- .....
.
:�
:
..
.
-i:.:.
....
. �·i .,,. �···
.-.�.
,.:.· ·
,,
.....
··
•r
.
•
":
··.,
,.
�
:
.·
•
•
•..- •�e ove.
•..-: -
·:: :'-· : �::- ·-�.:�
.
... ,,..
.._,. ..
... .,, ...
-:.·
...
..
..
...
.,
..
-,...
�·. ·- f11 01Jl
., .Ji.
'-'-
-.
.
l
-
-�.
Marsannay Rose vineyard
C:=J Other vineyard
C:
:J
Woods
�'"
Contour interval 5 metre•
f Internal vineyard boundary

88
FRANCE •BURGUNDY
Cote Chalonnaise
•
..
.
•
'
Paler copies of C6te d'Or wines,
sometimes rustic but definitely Improv ing.
Terroir Green fa rming country with
some limestone-dominated vineyards.
Climate A bit cooler than the Cote d'Or,
largely due to elevation.
Grape varieties R: Pinot Noir;
W: Chardonnay, Aligote in Bouzeron
So close is the north of the Cote Chalonna1se
to the southern tip of the Cote d'Or that
it is surprising that most of its wines taste
so perceptibly different, like slightly
undernourished country cousins. The rol ling,
pastoral hills south of Chagny are 1n many
ways a continuation of the Cote de Beau ne,
although the regular ridge is replaced here
by aiumble of limestone slopes on which
vineyards appear among orchards and
o
pasture, some of them 164ft (50m) higher
than those of the Cote de Beaune, res ulti ng
m a slightly later harvest and less re liable
ripening The Cote Chalonna1se, once called
the "Region de Mercurey", is now named
for its nearest city: Chalon- sur- Saone
D
T
to the east
In the north, Rully makes more white wine
than red The wh ite 1s brisk, relatively high in
ac id: in poor vi ntages ideal material for
sparkling Cremant de Bourgogne, and in the
increasing proportion of warmer vintages
lively, apple-fresh, appetizing wh ite burgundy
that can be exceptional val ue Rully reds can
tend to leanness in cool years, but are not
without class
Mercurey 1s much the best-known
appellation, accounting for about 40% ofCote
Chalonnaise red (1fyou include Bourgogne
Cote Chalonna1se; see below). Pinot Noir here
1s on a par with a minor Cote de Beaune: firm,
solid, rustic when young, but ageing well
Fa1veley is an important prod ucer
There has been ram pant Premier Cru
inflation here, the total number 1n Mercurey
alone r1s1ng from five in the 1980s to 32 on
more than 41 5 acres (168ha) ofvineyard
today. This significantly higher proportion of
Premiers Crus than 1n the C6te d'Or applies
to the whole C6te Chalonnalse, but the
resulting modest premium is worth paying.
Glvry Is half the size of Mercurey (it 1s the
smallest of the four major appellations) and 1s
almost as dedicated to red wine. It Is often
more fr uity and forward, and less tannic than
Mercurey, althouch the Clos Jus, recovered
from scrubland in the late 1980s, 1s producing
aolldly powerful wine well worth ageing.
Premiers Crus are multiplying here, too.
I•
Montagny tothe south is an all-white
appellation and includes neighbouring Buxy,
whose co- operative 1s probably the most
successful 1n southern Burgundy. The wh ites
here are fu ller than in RullY. and the best are
very like minor C6te de Beau ne wines. The
firm of Louis Latour long ago discovered
what good val ue they can be and 1s
responsible for a significant proportion of
total prod uction
Bouzeron, the village iust north of Rully,
has its own appellation exclusively for the
wines of one grape. Indeed, rt is the only
appellation for a single-village Aligote
white in Burgu ndy: a reward fo r the
perfect ionism of Domaine A and P de
Villaine, perhaps.
The whole region 1s a good source of
both ge neric red and white burgundy
sold under the appellation
Bourgogne-Cote Chalonna1se.
-�
• <lotJus
-
[=
=:J
-200 -
Canton boundary
Commune (pansh) boundary
Appellation boundary
Notable producer
Premier Cru
Premier Cru vineyard
Other vineyard
Woods
Contour interval 20 metres
.chogny
. Rully
•
t.1ontogny
Cluny1
THE CENTRAL STRIP
This map shows only
the most celebrated,
central strip of the C6te
Chalonnaise, speclftcal ly
the ftve ml,jor communes
that 1lve their namff to
the appellations Bouzeron,
Rully, Mercurey, Glvry, and
Montqny, and some of their
better - known vineyards
situated on mainly east- and
south-fac lnt slopes
1100,00
0

Miconnais
9oth •nthualasta and producers of
C6t• d'Or whit.. ar• h•adln1 south
fo r, rH p•ctlvely, win•• and land they
can afford.
Te rrolr Li mestone overlaid with clay
or alluvial topsoil.
Climate Rather war me r than the
Ct>te d 'Or.
Grapes W: Chardo nnay; R : Gamay and
a little Pinot Noir
The Chardonnay grape 1s demonstrably at
home 1n the Maconna1s and now ac counts for
almost 90%ofall its wine, so almost as much
Macon Blanc 1s made as Chablis. Thanksto
the efforts ofthe top performers, including
Lafo n and Lefla1ve from the Cote de Beaune,
Macon's reputation 1s in the ascendant. A
considerable proportion of the white wine
made in the Maconna1s 1s sold, quite legally,
as Bourgogne Blanc.
Most of the rather dull reds have been
made from Gamay. It is the we lcoming
whites, especially those from one ofthe
27 villages that qualify as Macon-Villages,
that are of real interest. The map marks
most of them, there 1s no shortage of
strong, stylish, well-made answers to the
Chardonnays ofthe New Wo rld here, wines
with a perceptibly French accent whose
ranks swell with every vi ntage. In the
south, the villages of Chasselas, Leynes,
St-Verand, and Chanes also qualify for a
strange appellation of convenience,
St-Veran (see key). Soils in southern
St-Veran tend to be red, ac idic, and sandy.
Their wines are generally much simpler
and leaner than the luscious ones made
on the limestone of Pr1sse and Davaye
Just north of Pouilly-Fu1sse (see the
map overleaf).
Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loche,
lyingjust to the east of the central
Pouilly-Fu1sse zone, are theoretical
alternatives to the real thing, but are
in very short supply.
Mlcon-Prisse, grown on limestone,
can be good val ue, and Lugny, Uchizy,
Chardonnay (the lucky village with the
name ofthe grape), and Loche all have their
fa ns as proV1ders of keenly priced, rather
plump burgundran Chardonnay. Two of the
best villages, however, are Vire and Clesse,
which give thei r names to the Vire-Clesae
ap pellat1on (see the red bo undary), centred
on a stri p of hmes-tone that threads its way
north through the region vaguely paral lel to
the main north-south A6 autorovte.
Depertement boundary
Canton boundary
Vlr6-CI�
V111111e which may append
•"2 ItsnametoMaconand/or1s
entitled to the Macon-Villages
appellabon
.LmlU . Commune entltled to the
St-V6ran appellation
DOMMIQtl
l.
Notable producer
•
-
Macon-Villages
- Pou11iy-Fu1ss6
- Poullly-Vinzelles
- Pouilly-Lochl!
St-V�ran
Woods
c:
:EJ
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
It was a fe ather in the M6.connais
cap to have attracted Domm1que
Lafon, the king ofMeursault, and
the late Anne-Claude Leflaive, the
queen ofPuligny -Montrachet, to
invest so far south of the C6te
d'Or. Lafon has long made a
range ofhighly dis tinctive,
single -vineyard M6.connais
whites and Leflaive now
does the same.
'' !\.mour •
Bl ikvt1t
BURGUNDY · f'"ANCI
H
Toumus •
• MOcon
1130,00
0
'
T
F
"i
i

•
•
.!.
c
o
D
"f
E
"F
ro
FRANCE · BURGUNDY
Pou illy­
Fuisse
In the far south
of the Mlconnals,
almost bordering
Beaujolais, is a
pocket of white
wine-growing with
a distinct, more
potent, character.
The Pou 1lly-Fu1sse
d1str1ct is a sudden
tempest of wave -shaped
limestone hills, rich in the
alkaline clay the Chardonnay
vine loves
The map shows how the four
very varied Pouilly-Fuisse
communes shelter on the
lower slopes, the contour
Imes alone are enough to
suggest Just how irregular
the topography is, and how
varied the vineyards Vines
on the south-fac ing, open
slopes of Chai ntre may ripen
a fu ll two weeks before those
on the north-facing slopes of
Verg1 sson, whose wines can be
some of the most fu ll-bodied in a
long, late vintage. The commune
ofSolutre-Pou1lly shelters under the
pale pink Rock of Solutre, rising to 1,617ft
(4 93 m) Its northern (Solutre) end is s1m1lar
to Verg1sson and the Po u1lly terrai n more
like that around Fuisse The twin village s
of Pou illy and Fu i sse are relatively low-lying
and peacefu l, but for the constant prowl of
wine-loving tourists.
The best wine ofthe d1str1ct 1s fu ll to
the point of richness and capable of
sumptuous succulence with time. Perhaps
a dozen small growers make wines that
frequently reach these heights, applying
wildly varying policies on oak source, size,
and age, lees stirring, and the length of
time 1n barrel. Others may be bland in
comparison, virtually indistinguishable
from Mlcon-Villages, their producers
leaning heavily on Pou1lly-Fu1sse's
international fa me.
Ambitious producer•
After a period of stagnation in the 1980s,
the appellation can boast a host of
overachievers such as Guffens-Heynen,
the Bret Brothers, J -A Ferret, Robert­
Denogent, Julien Barraud, ChAteau de
Beau regard, and Olivier Merlin (based iust
to the north on t he west slopes of aptly
named La
Roche Vmeuse;
see map on p .69).
For some years
amb1t1ous producers
have been encouraged to offer
single-vineyard botthngs as the
prec ursor to classifying as Premiers
Crus. Resulting better prices will
encourage others, though as usual
there will ce rtai nly be squabbles when
the final decisions on what's Premier and
what's not (which were expected in 2017)
are eventually made. The most obvious
candidates for elevation to Premier Cru
statu s are marked on this map.
.,,
1 35,71 "'
Tournvs •
)
1
�MOcon
)
.,_
_
-
•••-
Commune (parish) boundary
Appellation boundaries are
distinguished by coloured hnes
�'T ·V�llAlli Appellation
• � Notable producer
en Soni N� vineyard
Vineyards
Woods
-o
o
CVntour interval 10 metre

Pou I y Fu 11• BU�GUNOY l'..ANCI
71

-
-=-
--
-=-
�
-
�
_..
--
-
:.:
:-
-
-
-
-
---
-
-
--.
-
-
..
-
..
..
.._
_
-
--
-
-·
Beaujolais
The G amay grape, considered second­
division virtually everywhere else, can
produce uniquely fresh, vivid, fruity,
often light but inftnitely swallowable
wine in Beaujolais. Here, it produces
flavours fo und nowhere else.
Te rroir Granite of many colours ove rlaid
with clay and sand in the north, with lighter
soils and flatter land in the south.
Climate Almost southern with some
summers disti nctly hot.
Grapes R. Gamay, W: Chardonnay
Some find Beaujolais fr ivolous, 1t only rarely
reac hes the d1mens1ons or durabil ity of great
wi ne. Others see that as its vi rtue· rapid
and copious enjoyment. Beaujolais, now
underpr1ced, fe ll out of fas hion after the late
20th-century thirst fo r BeaujolaJs Nouveau
every November resulted in frantic fe rments
redolent of bananas "Serious" does not have
to mean h eavy, however, its d1sti nct1on 1s how
1t can slip down the throat with ineffable ease.
The Beaujolais region stretc hes 34 miles
(55km) from the arantte- based hills
-
-
--
1mmed1ately south of Macon, the southern
end of Burgundy, to the much flatter land
northwest of Lyon . Beaujolais in total
produces almost as much wine as the rest of
the Burgundy wine regions put together and,
as one would expect, the region's more than
37,500 acres (15,175ha) of vineyards are far
from homoge neous. Its sod divides 1t sharply,
just north of V1llefr anche, the region's capital.
South of here in "Bas" Beauj olai s the soil
is clay over granite and limestone, notably
in the area of the Pierres Dorees, the
"golden stones" which add lustre to some
ofthe pretti est villages in France The red
made on the flatter land eve n fu rther south
1s also plain Beaujolais. Very fre sh and new,
1t can be the ultimate bistro wine, served
by the pot in Lyon's fa mously authentic
bouchons (small brasseries). Plain "Bas"
Beaujolais 1s not for keeping Even in a good
vi ntage its clay soil 1s too cold to ripen really
fu ll flavours in the Gamay grapes - although
there are occasional exce ptions
The northern part of the region, "Haut"
Beaujolais, 1s gran ite- based, with a variously
sandy topsoil that drains, warms, and ripens
the Gamay, often to perfection. Thirty-eight of
its communes, marked in the areas coloured
blue and mauve on the map, have the right to
the appellation Beaujolals-Vlllqes Thei r
vineyards climb the wooded mountai ns to the
west to heights above 1,480f't (450m).
The blue hills ofBeau1olais are beloved by
tourists - m the warm, lazy days ofsummer.
Here, snow-carpeted vines nudge right up to
the village ofDenice, west of V1llefranche.
It is al most always worth paying more for
a -V illages wine fo r its extra concentrat ion.
Only ind1v1dual growers who bottle (very
much the minority) tend to append the
names of the Beaujolai s -Vil lages communes,
with Lantignie and Leynes most commonly
seen. Merchants sti ll dominate production
and are much more likely to blend the
prod uce of different communes to make
a wine labelled simply Beaujolais-Villages
with no further d etail
Names to remember
The 10 places underlined in black within the
mauve area on the map h ave the right to
use their own names on labels ( not even
mentioning Beaujoilus) and are expected to
show disti nct characte ristics of their own .
These are the Beaujolais crus, considered
in detai l overleaf and lying iust south of the
MAconna1s, close to Pou1lly- Fu1sse. Gamay
and the granite that underlies the crus are
one of those mysterious marriages of grape
and ground the French consider made 1n
h eaven . And today, there are serious efforts
to make much more serious wine here,
although very rarely with a serious price t&i

In the far north of the region a small and
arow1ng amount of Beaujolais Blanc is also
made, from Chardonnay (red wines having
been so difficultto sell) And all over the region
a small but increasing proportion of Gamay
is made i nto a rose version of BeauJola1s.
The Gamay grape 1s m its element here.
Each Gamay vine in Beauiola1s was
traditionally staked md1v1dually (although
trellising 1s now allowed in the better
vineyards) . Its plants are almost hke people,
leading independent lives· after 10 years
they are no longer staked, but merely tied
up m summer, standing free A Gamay vine
can hve longer than a human, be about the
same size, and has to be harvested by one
rather than by machine.
The great majority of Beaujolais today
is made by semi-carbonic maceration, in
which whole bunches ofgrapes go mto a
subsequently sealed vat uncrushed, and
the grapes - at least at the top of the vat
- begi n fe rmenting internally a high-speed
fe rmentation that emphasizes the
character1st1c smell and flavo ur ofthe fr uit
and minimizes tannins and malic ac id. But
there have been significant signs of a return
to the old, more burgund1an methods of
vin1ficat1on, some producers willingly
remtroducmg oak casks to make much more
ageworthy, rather burgund1an wines. With
age, good Gamay 1s said to pmotte - become
more hke Pmot No1r
Beaujolais taste·alikes
Well off the map to the west, over a
mountai n ridge and in the Upper Loire
basin m fa ct, are three much smaller
regions similarly devoted to the
Gamay grape (see the map of France
on p.53). The C6te Roannaise, on
south- and southeast-fac ing slopes of
the Loire near Roan ne, also en1oys a
granite base, and several individual
domaines here can produce wines that
have the same refreshing integrity as
Beaujolais in its purest form. Further south,
growing Gamay on sim ilar soils, the
C6tes du Forez 1s dominated by a single
wel l-run co-op. C&tes d 'Auvergne, near
Clermont- Ferrand, is more extensive,
and makes hght reds and roses from
Gamay, and a little light white.
'"'-.-
'"'-,'
)
�on�
I,
1 220.00
0
Deplrtement boundary
Limit of Mlconna11 reeion
Llmrt of Beaujolais reaion
l1IH!JI. Beaujolais Cru
•Pnal
lly
Beau)ola1s-V1llases commune
M� Notable producer
- Crus Beaujolais
Beaujola1s-V1lla11es
Beau1olals
r-ji"I
Area mapped at larger
�
scale on page shown
km o_..
..
.
..,.
..
'-
-
_.
3
,,
,_
_._
..
.,.
s
Km
Ml
lo
o
0
2
3Ml'"'
I>
,,
Beau1ola1s BURGUNDY • l' .. ANCE
73
•l:AUJOLAIS VILLAGl:S AND CRUS
The fu ll extent ofthe Beaujolal1 appellation
is mapped here, lncludln1 the overlap with
the MAco nnai1 region in the north The
Beaujolais crua, which provide Just
under a third of the region'•
total prod uction, are
mapped in detail
overleaf.
..,
Lyon
Lyon
\
0
'

�
FRANCE • BURGUNDY
The Crus of Beaujolais
•
•
The hazy blue hills mapped here, often
crowned with woods but densely planted
with vines below, are home to the 10
individual crus ofBeaujolais, where the
wines at their best display to perfection
the effects of terroir on a si ngle grape,
Gamay. Their names need to be memorized,
though, since the word "Beaujolais" 1s rarely
mentioned on the label.
Recent geological studies have
demonstrated that the underlying rock 1s
the same volcanic schist or sandy gran ite as
t
1s found 60 miles {97km) south m Cote- Rot 1e.
But constant erosion has left a mosaic of
diffe rent topsoils, aspects, and gradients
so that wines can vary enormously even
within a single cru. Locals, of course, could
spot them blindfolded
The northernmost cru 1s the smallest,
St-Amour, which, like its neighbours
St-Veran and Pouilly- Fu1sse, has some
limestone m its soil Its wines have more
i5"
charm than structure. Juli6nas 1s usually
fu ller-bodied and can be a little rustic,
although Les Mou1lles and Les Cap1tans
are superior lieux-d1ts Chiinas, like
Moulin-a-Vent, its more fa mous
neighbour, needs time to blossom Of
the two best sub-areas of Mou lin-a -Vent
one 1s near the wmdm1ll 1tself and
consists of the lteux-d1ts Le Clos,
Le Carquelin, Champ de Cour, and Les
Thorms. The second is slightly above them
and comprises La Rochelle, Rochegres, and
Les Verillats Examples from the lower,
flatter land in the far south of the cru
lack their complexity, ageab11ity, and even,
sometimes, nobility.
Perhaps because of the name, a certai n
fe mininity 1s generally associated with
Fleuri• rightly m the case of the sandy
Chapelle des Bois, La Macione, and Les
Quatre Ve nts . But Fleur1es grown m more
clayey vineyards such as La Ro1lette and
Les Mor1ers, and in the particularly warm,
south-fac ing Les Garants and Ponc1e, can
equal the best Moulin a-Vent In body and
longevity Chlroubles, with very light,
sandy soils, is the highest cru Its wines can
be a little too tart in cooler vintages but
can have enormous charm m sunny ones.
Morion , the birthplace of natural wine
(see p 35), 1s the second-largest cru,
associated with Its fa mous, vo lcan ic
Cote du Py, whose wines are
17.S,00
0
Ko
o
O
..
..
.
�
�� --�
-.
.
�..
..
..
.
���� ..
..
.
Milo
o
0
BEAUJOLAIS
Villefronche- •
sur·SoOne
v,/lIr
>Ur
'J
!I•
<II
Departement boundary
canton boundery
Commune (parish) boundary
!tQ!
!lQ!'i
lJmtts of BeauJolals Crus
CH.:
:.
\'IN Notable producer
Vineyards
Woods
Contour interval 20 rietre
,.

particularly stro ng, warm, and spicy. Les
Charmes, Les Grands Cras, Corcel ette, and
Chlteau Gaillard vineyarda give hghter
and ro under wines. South of Morgon, the
big cru of ISroullly 1s unpredictable.
Wines grown on the volcanic slopes of
Mont Brou1lly in the much smaller C6t• de
Brouilly cru are more likely to be worth
ageing . Re&nl,, west of Morgon, Is rather
hke a Brou1lly, or a s u perior Beaujolais-
Tht soils of tht Beaujolais Crus
llranlles
- Soils on shallow granite
Solis on shallow. weathered aranite
Soils on deep granite
- SOiis on deep, highly weathered granite
Siliceous volcanic rocks
c:
::
::
::
:J
Soils on varied shallow siliceous rocks
Soils on vaned deep siliceous rocks
Blue or schlstos1 volcanic rocks
c=J Soils on shallow, weathered bluestone
Soils on deep, weathered bluestone
- Soils on shallow. weathered schist
- Soils on deep, weathered schist
Sandstones
Non-calcareous soils on sandstone
Lim1S1o1
1
1
Soils on hard . shallow limestone
- Decarbonated soils on shallow limestone rock
Soils on deep, hard limestone
- Decarbonated soils on deep limestone rock
Ml
ll
rl
C=
=:J
Calcareous soils on marl
- Non-calcareous soils on marl
Scree
Soils on non-calcareous gravelly slopes
Residual clays
Residual clay SOiis wrth few stones
- Residual clay soils with chert and flint
PildR1Gnt and old alluvial formations
c=J Piedmont and old alluvial soils with few stones
Stony old alluvial soils
ltlceRtDl
llJ
llVIUI(fineICl'l
l
)fromthebaleofthe1lop1
- Vety deep sorts from recent colluvlum
.!W!
!iQ!
LlmKs of BeaujQla1s Crus
06partem
e
nt boundary
Canton boundl!fy
Com
m
un. !perish) boundary
Villages. Prices reflect this,
but rare 1s the overpriced
cru Beaujolais and even
rarer Is overpriced
vineyard land. As a result,
there has been an
invas ion ofproducers
from the Cote d'Or,
thwarted by rising
land prices there.
114
riemc-
Lande
..
.
GLACIER·FREE MAKE·UP
The 10 Beau1ola1s crus mapped
here are dominated by the
gran ite-based soils that
survived in this part of France
because no glaciers melted
here to wash the granite away.
But a decade of research
invo lving 979 soil pits and 15,301
boreholes has revealed the
intricate details of the make-up
of the soils here, providing
tantalizing clues to the nuanced
flavours in the wines, not just
from different crus but even
from neighbouring vineyards.
1 75,00
0
llAIRD ON AN ORlalNAL IOIL _,. CMATU
•Y 818ALl:S AND INTER •PUJOL.Ala.
"
71
[
T
'
o

n
FRANCE · BURGUNDY

Chablis
For all the fame of the name, Chablis
Is one of the moat underestimated of
wines - Chardonnay at Its most thrilling
and potentially lon1-llved .
Te rrolr Klmmeridgian clay-limestone
produces the finest wines; you nger
Portlandian soils dominate less
propitious sites.
Climate The cool northern outpost of
Burgundy too often suffers devastating
spring frosts.
Grapes W: Chardonnay
Chablis 1s almost the sole survivor of
what was once a vast wine-growing region:
the main supplier to Paris, only 110 miles
(177 km) away to the northwest.
In the late 19th century its departement,
the Yo nne, had 100,000 ac res (40,500 ha) of
vines - many of them red - and fu lfilled what
was to become the role of the Midi. Chablis'
waterways flowi ng into the River Seine were
once thronged with wine- barges.
First phylloxera crushed, then the
rai l ways bypassed the wine-growers of the
Yo nne, leaving 1t one of France's poorest
agricultural regions. The second half of the
20th century saw a great renaissance and
a fresh iust1ftcat1on for its renown, for
Chablis is one ofthe great inimitable
origi nals. Chardonnay responds to its cold
terro1r of limestone clay with flavours no
one can reprod uce m easier (or any other)
wine-growi ng cond1t1ons. Chablis 1s hard
but not harsh, reminiscent of stones and
minerals, but at the same time of green hay;
when 1t is young 1t act ually looks green.
Grand Cru Chablis, and even some of the
best Premier Cru Chablis, tastes
important, strong, almost immortal . And
indeed, 1t does last a re markably long time;
a strange and del1c1ous sort of sour taste
enters into 1t when it reaches about 10
years ofage, and its go lden-green eye flashes
meaningfully. Chablis fa natics know 1t can go
through a less exciting wet- wool phase in
middle age that can put others off So much
the worse for them.
Oysters and their shells
Cool-climate vineyards need exceptional
conditions to s ucceed . Chablis hes 100 miles
(160km) north of Beau ne - and 1s therefore
nearer to Cham pagn e than to the rest of
Burgundy. Geology is its secret; the outcrop
of the ri m of a wide submerged basin of
limestone and clay The far ri m, across the
English Channel m Dorset, gives Its name,
BURGUNDY · �"ANCE
n
f�
I
Se19neloy
0
0
Chem illy
�
sur- Yonn<>
\
n
)
0 !es Chaurnes
u
lrroye•
Dtl
s Baud1eres0
_
,.
..
..
..
.-._
_
o
,
d
..
./"
""
""'"'J-
.
_
'\
!es Pr�s u·Bo1s
l
Ponl1gny
0
�
Hty
o
Rouv
J
OY)
N
o Vorennes
Sevry f oV
e
nouse
Li
\ H77
6
0Mere
0 ugt!res SUI°'"
Mo'nt_i
g
nr
A6j:
S1 otte
o
la Re\Je
To nnerr
�
Moneleou
�1�1:;e
-
\ B�igny
o re -Carreou
/labor�
;.
i
¥
��
N6
·�
·
N65
emgny
Dt«
0Yrouerre
0 /a Croix�
P1lale
Liehere«
0pres Atgremont
MO! P
A�cr
KmO
Mol.
.
O
BOURGOGNE
ClllTRY
1 250,00
0
23'5Km
3Mo1-
Bourgogne
Regional appellation -
St-Bns
lrancy
0944
oSocy
Beaune
Wmes carrying the simple
Chablis appellation are
grown on land outside the
terroirs deemed propitious
enough to produce Premier
and Grand Cru Chablis,
which are mapped in
sur·Serem
""'
- Chablis
DD Area mapped at larger
detail overleaf.
C:
:J
Petit Chablis
scale on page shown
THE YO NNE
The departement responsible for Chablis and the lesser, more
recent appellations carries the name of the River Yonne in the
west of the area mapped here, but it is the valley of the River
Serein and its tributaries that define the Chablis vineyards. The
fortunes ofChablis have always fluctuated enormously, especially
since frosts can have such a direct effect on how much wine is
made each year.
K1mmer1dge, to this unique pudding of
prehistoric oyster shells Oysters and
Chablis, 1t seems, have been related smce
creation. The hardy Chardonnay 1s Chablis'
only vine. Where the slopes fa ce the sun It
ripens excellently.
Chablis and Petit Chablis, the m uc h ­
expanded outlying area, are not the only
appellations of the Yo nne, and Chardonnay
not the only grape lrancy an d the village
of Coulanges - la-Vmeus e (l!lourso1n•
Coulanges-la-Vlneuse AOC) have long grown
Pmot No1r to make light red burgundy.
The Sauvignon Blanc grown around St- Br1s
le -Vmeux, unusual for this part ofFrance,
has its own appellation, St- Brls, while the
Chardonnay and Pmot No1r grown there 1s
sold as Bourgogne C6te d 'Auxerre, except
for that around Ch1try, which is labelled
Bourgogne Chltry. The red wine grown
west of Tonnerre is cal led Bourgogne
Epl neu ll, while Bourae>1ne Tonnerre 1s
w h ite. Are such distinctions worthwhile?
They do no harm.
•I
,,
<
'
r

The Heart of Chablis
The classification of Chablis into
four grades is one of the clearest
demonstrations anywhere In the
northern hemisphere of the Importance
of southern slopes. Grand Cru wines
always taste denser than Premiers Crus,
Premiers Crus than plain Chablis, and
Chablis than Petit Chablis.
All seven Grands Crus lie in a single block
looking south and west over the village and
the river, their combined total representing
only 2% of the Chablis vineyard area In theory
each of the seven has its own style Many
regard Les Clos and Va udes1r as best of al l,
certai nly theytend to be the biggest in body
But more important is what all have in
common: intense, highly charged flavour on
the scale ofthe best wh ites ofthe Cote de
Beau ne but with more of a nervy, steely edge
- which, with age, leads to noble complexity
Grand Cru Chablis must be aged, ideally for
10 years, and many exam ples are st ill maiestic
at 20, 30, or even 40.
Les Clos 1s the biggest, with 64 acres (26 ha),
and best known; often also first in flavour,
strength, and lasting power. Fine vi ntages of
Les Clos can develop an almost Sauternes­
hke perfume 1n time. Preuaes should be very
ripe, round, and perhaps the least stony 1n
character, while Blanchot and Grenou1lles
are usually highly aromatic. Val mur 1s some
connoisseurs' ideal: rich and frag rant Others
prefer the definition and finesse of Va udes1r
Blanchot 1s perhaps the least interesting of
the Grands Crus, while the steepest sector
of Bougros, called C6te Bouguerots by
Wilham Favre, can prod uce terrific wine
Premiers Crus
There are officially 40 named Premiers Crus,
with the lesser- known ones having long since
been discarded, or permitted to go to
market under the names of the dozen or so
best known. The map opposite shows both
the old names and the new ones that are now
in common use. These Premiers Crus vary
considerably in exposure and grad ient;
certai nly those on the north bank of the
River Serein, flan king the Grands Crus to
the northwest (Fourchaume, for exam ple)
and east (Montee de To nnerre and Mont de
Milieu), have the advantage. The best
Premiers Crus arguably represent Chablis'
best val ue: seriously stylish wine that can
last at least as long as a Premier Cru wh ite
from the Cote d'Or and have more need of
three or four years 1n bottle than, say, a
Meursault. Conservatives credit the Chablis
heartland's Klmmer1dg1an marl with unique
properties, their opponents claim the same
Spraying Chablis vineyards against the fr ost
that threatens so often in spring may seem
counterintuitwe but 1t protects the delicate
buds with a layer ofice (see p. 19).
for the closely related Portland1an bedrock
and clay that crops up much more widely in
the area The INAO has chosen the easy
option and fa voured the latter, al lowing
expansion of the Chablis vineyard to a total
of 1 2,701 ac res (5,140 ha): Petit Chablis 2,184
acres (884ha), Chablis 8,320 acres (3,367 ha),
Premier Cru 1,935 acres (783 ha), and Grand
Cru 262 acres (106ha).
In 1960, there was more land dedicated to
Premier Cru Chabli s than straight Chablis.
Today, although Premier Cru land has
expanded considerably, more than four
times as much vineyard 1s allowed to produce
straight Chablis . And Petit Chablis from the
outlyi ng area can be a thin, unsatisfying drink
from al l butthe best hands. Chablis re m ains,
as 1t always will be this fa r north, very uneven
from year to year as well as variable
(particularly 1n style) from grower to grower.
Most growers today fa vour tank· fe rmented ,
unoaked wi nes, although an Increasing
number of prod ucers have shown that oak,
especially well used oak, can have speci al
properties to offer some of their better
wines. New oak wou) d be too much Grand
Cru Chablis, largely ignored by the world's
fine- wine traders, remains even now half the
price of Corton -Charlem a&ne Parity would
be clo.ser to Justice

The Heart of Chablis BURGUNDY • ,,.ANCI
71
GRANDS AND ll
l
REMIERS CRUS
Note howthe Grand Cru vineyard• form one sohd, aun·
warmed, aouthwest·facln1, wel l·dralned block, althou1h on
the fac e of 1t the map sugHt• that Vaulorent and Montee
de To nnerre, amon1 th• Premier Cru altes, ml1ht preHnt
the closest challen1• to them In quality u we ll a• 1•01raphy.
Canton boundary
Commune (parish) boundary
Chablis Grand Cru
Chablis Premier Cru (Troesmes old name)
Chablis
C=:J Petit Chablis
Woods
-2M- Contour interval 10 metres
La Moutonne has Grand
Cru status, but as a brand
rather than an eighth cru
as it straddles Va udes1r
•I
Auxerre
I 50,00
0
•
N

80
FRANCE
Cham pagne
To be champagne, a wine must do very
much more than have bubbles. It must
come from the Champagne region In
northeast France. This is a basic tenet of
wine law in France, throughout Europe,
and now, thanks to tenacious negotiation,
in much of the rest of the world.
Te rroir Chalk is Cham pagne's most
fam ous att ribute, both for drainage and
its excavated cellars, or crczyeres.
Climate Cool and northern but steadily
getting warmer.
Grape varieties R: Pinot Noir, Pinot
Meunier; W: Chardonnay
It would be claiming far too much to say
that all cham pagne 1s better than any other
sparkling wine. But the very best cham pagne
has a combination of freshness, richness,
delicacy, and raciness, a particular flavou r,
and a ge ntly stimulating nuance that no
sparkling wine from anywhere else has
yet ac hieved
Part of Cham pagne's secret lies in its
combination of latitude and precise position
The latitude in the key facts panel overleaf 1s
fu rther north than for any other wine region
in this Atlas (except for England - whose
best wines are fa ir copies of champagne).
The region 1s close enough to the sea to
share its Atlantic climate, its cloud cover,
and equitable seasons. Climate change 1s
bringing marginally riper grapes, lower
ac idity, and a more balanced equ1hbr1um to
the average growing season. Champagne's
proximity to the sea has always helped to
ripen grapes this far fro m the equator
Cham pagne, whose soil and climate have
so much to offer, 1s only 90 miles (145 km)
northeast of Paris, centred on a small range
of hills rising from a plain of chalk and
carved in two by the River Marne The map
overleaf shows Champagne's heart, but
the whole region is much more extensive
The Marne departement produces about
two-thirds of all champagne, but there are
vineyard s in the Aube to the south that
specialize in vigorous, fruity, d1stinct1ve
Pinot No1r (about 23% of the region's total),
and the mainly Pinot Meunier vineyards
on the banks of the River Marne extend
westwards well into the A1sne departement
(abo ut 10% of all vineyards).
While Cham pagne 1s fa mous for its deep
beds of Cretaceous chalk that are so
prominent in the C6te des Blancs and much
of the M ontagne de Re1ms, 1ts soils vary
considerably over the vineyard area, which
covers more than 84,000 acres (34,000 ha)
Westwards, through the Marne Valley, the
chalk is fu rther and fu rther below thick
layers of clay, limestone, and marl. Further
north, In the western portion of the
Montagne de Re1ms, the soils are also
diverse, including a wide variety of
limestones and clays. In the Aube's C6te des
Bar in the far south of the Champagne
region, the soil isn't everi chalk at all, but
K1mmeridg1an marl, the same soil as is found
to the immediate southwest in Chablis.
This variety results in a surprisingly diverse
array of wine styles and c h aracters. Indeed,
a key recent development is the increased
effort by top prod ucers to explore this
d1vers1ty, to focus on their terrolrs by
vinifying different parcels separately; even, in
some cases, bottling them as single-vineyard
or single-terro1r champagnes.
A growing trend
A total of 320 villages are authorized to
prod uce c ham pagne. Champagne vineyards
are some of the world's most expensive,
but only 10% belong to the large exporting
houses res ponsible for the worldwide
reputation of champagne They tend to
blend ingredients from all over the region
to produce their wines. The rest 1s owned
by more than 15,000 owner-growers, many
of whom are part-time.
More and more of these growers, well over
4,000 at the last count (twice as many as in
2010), are making and selling their own wine,
rather than selling grapes to the houses, or
ma1sons, for their blends - although they
sometimes do that as well. The growers'
champagnes, which now include some of the
most highly regarded, ac count for almost a
quarter of all sales. Just over a tenth of the
total 1s put on the market by one of the
growers' co-operatives established in
Champagne's dog days in the early 20th
century. But the cham pagne market 1s still
dominated bythe fa mous names, the
ma1sons of Re1 ms and Epernay - together
with a few, such as Bollinger of Ay and
Laurent-Perrier of Tours-sur- Marne, based
outside the two Champagne towns.
The champagne recipe
Its overwhelming success has seen the
champagne recipe copied worldwide Take
Pinot No1r, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay
grapes and apply a kid-glove process now
called the "traditional method"
The grapes are pressed, in four-tonne lots,
so gently that the Juice 1s very pale, even
from the dark-ski nned Pinots, and on ly a
precisely prescribed amount ofjuice from
each lot may be used for cham pagne. (Most
of the increasingly popular rose champagne
is made by deliberately adding some still red
wine to the white.)
This far north the alcohol level after
fe rmentation of the base wi ne 1s barely 10%
but sugar and yeast are added to this dry
wine and the mixture bottled, so that a
second fe rmentation takes place m bottle,
raising the alcohol to 12% and giving of
f
carbon dioxide that remains dissolved m
the wine The chief difference between
champagne brands hes in the m aki ng ofthe
CUVee, as the blend of dry base wi nes IS
called. Everything depends on experience in
assemblingthe young wines - which are
often deepened by a dose of older, reserve
wine - and on how much the house 1s
.
.
:
C HAi\I PAG NE
1
>IR WINSTON CH RCHILL ;
2008
BFl T
Blanc de blancs champagne made ex lusi,ely
from Chardonna
Blanc de noirs champagne made excl usiveI) from
dark - kmned grape
Cuvee a ble nd, which mo t C'hampagne 1
Non-vintage (NV) champagne contamingwinc
from more than one year
Reserve much u ed but meaningle term
Vintage wme from a single year
SWEETNESS LEVELS
(with res idual sugar levels in gfl)
Brut nature or zero dosage < 3 g;I, and no ugnr
add1tio11s ofnny ort
Extra brut bone-di 0 6 g I
Brut dry: <12g I
Extra dry: 12 J7g;I
Sec dryish· 17-32g/I
Demi·sec medium s"eet (de.pile the name).
32 50 g/I
Doux pos ttivcl >WCCl �o g/ I
BOTTLER CODES
NM 11c,qoc wnl- ma111p11/onl thnmpagne hou•e lh,\l
buy• m grape;
RM reco//anl t1W111pu/a11I gro\\ er who 111,1kto J11, or
hll' 0\\ 11 \\II\
CM woperu ttw de ma111pulat1on ,1 to op
RC nco/tant uioprrateur J(ro" �I ' lhnR \\ 111L 11
1
.i d<'
by,1ro op
MA marque dac hetc ur hu>< 1 'o\\ n Jn ,1n<l

prepared to spend on raw materials. As
described overleaf, the quality and character
of vineyards even in the heart of Champagne
can be very different .
Another crucial fac tor In champagne quality
1s the length of time the prod ucer leaves the
wine on the lees ofthe second fe rmentation m
Its bottle. The longer the better and certainly
longer than the mandatory minimum 12
months fo r both non vintage and vintage
champagne, for 1t is contact with this
sediment as much as anything that gives
champagne its distinctive, subtle flavour.
The reputation of an established house 1s
based on its non-vintage blends, and there
1s a growing trend towards recogn izing that
their character may vary from year to year.
The vil
l
age of
Montgueux may
be vlticulturalfy
Is olated but It
produce• one of
Champagne'• more
d1stmct1ve, and
earllert-ripening,
blendmg ingredients:
sunny Chardonnay from a
south-facing slop1
1
ofchalk.
The industrialization of champagne began
with the widow (Veuve) Chcquot in the early
19th century. Her achievement was to devise
a way of clearing the wine of its sediment
without losing the bubbles. R1ddhng, or
remuage, involved literal ly shaking by hand
the sediment in gradually upended bottles
down on to the cork, in perforated racks
known as pup1tres . Today, this 1s done
mechanically in large computer controlled
pal lets. The neck of the bottle 1s then fro zen,
a plug of murky ice shoots out when the
bottle 1s opened, leaving perfectly clear wine
behind to be topped up by wine with varying
dosages of sweetness. The trend 1 n the
region today is to red uce the dosage, and
sometimes even add n one at all.
,,,
CHAMPAGNE . ,�ANCI
�
THE RISE OF THE GROWERS
Some v 111 c - growe r 111 lhc Champagne region
have long m.id their own win ; th l'rc nd1 l ove
buymg direct. The big clwnge 1 eten lly I'> the
hccr numb rof them m.ikrng, n n d expo r ting,
scriou l y fine harn p.1gnc Man of them belong
to one of several grower gwupi ngi. and rnuk
a wide ra nge of wines outside the norm
expre sing individual terroir , unusual gra p •
vari e lle s, or dist inctive
cornb111allon• ofv111lages
They typ ical ly rnin1111 1ze
do age and 111ax1m1ze the
amou nt of information
given on the label Oak
ageing is rel atively
co mmon; Anselme elos e
in Avizc led the way. The e
grower champagne are no
lon ger the bargai ns they
once were but they have
enriched the Champagne
cene immeasurably, even
if ome seem to worship
au tenty ina champagne
rather more than is wise.
ome argue that a little
dosage co ntribute to the
ageing pro es .
Departement boundary
Limrt of Champagne appellatron
Wine-producing areas
'83'
Area mapped at larger scale
L.
..
.2!
!.
..
..
..
on page shown
t
The C6te des Bar in the Aube
departement grows fr ien dly Pin ot
No1r in a pastoral landscape quite
different fr om that further north,
on Klmmeridgian marl rather
than chalk. Ambitious young
growers proliferate here.
11,00
0
.00
0
�o
w
20
�
MilaO
10
lOMilo
o
sl•
•
I
c
o
D
T
'
T

82
FRANCE · C'HAMPAGNE
The Heart of Cham pagne
What lies beneath the vines is Champagne's
trump card . Chalk is a soft roc k that can
eas ily be hewn into cellars. It also retai ns
moistu re and acts as a perfectly regulated
vine hum1d1fier while actually warm ing the
soil And 1t prod uces grapes rich in nitrogen
-
which in turn encourages the activity of
yeasts Today, three grapes dominate. Meaty
P1not Noir 1s most planted (38% of the
vineyard s), having overtaken P1not Meunier,
a sort of country cousin that 1s easier to grow
and ripen, obviously fruity but rarely so fine.
Plantings of fre sh-flavoured, potentially
creamy Chardonnay have increased in recent
years to 30% of the total.
Slight var1at1ons of slope and aspect are
crucial. The Montagne de Re1ms, the wooded
"mountai n" of the city where France's kings
were crowned, is planted with Pinot Noir
CHAMPAGNE: REJMS
Lal1tutlt Llt·va t1011 of WS
49.31. / 298 ft (91 m)
>\Hru!(t g rnv.ing'(' U '> On ll'mperal urc al WS
158 4•F (14.7•c)
\vtr,1 g< annual rarnfall at WS
24 7ln (628mm)
11.or \l 'I month 1«ti11foll at \\ S
eptember 1 . 91n (49mm)
( hid \ 1t1< ultur,il ha:i:artl'>
Spring frost, fungal dis uo
and, to a lesser exte nt, Pinot Meunier. Pinot
vines planted on such north-fac ing slopes as
those of Verzenay and Verzy produce base
wines notably more ac idic and less powerful
than those grown on the warmer, more
propitious (pre-climate change) southern
flanks ofthe "mountai n" at Ay, but can bring
a refi ned, laser- etc hed delicacy to a blend.
Montagne wines contribute to the bouquet,
the headiness, and, with their firm ac 1d1ty,
the backbone of the blend.
The memorably named village of Bouzy 1s
fa mous partly because a small quantity of
sti ll red wine 1s made there. Red 1s essential
for tinting champagne rose (and magical ly
increasing its perceived val ue). The rare
and comparatively tart still wines of the
Champagne region - mostly light reds but
occasionally whites - are sold under the
appellation Coteaux Champeno1s .
The Val lee de la Marne in the west has a
succession of south-fac ing slopes that catch
the sun and prod uce some of the fu llest,
ro undest, and ripest wines, with plenty
of aroma These, too, are predominantly
black-grape vineyards, fa mous for Pinot No1r
1n the best-exposed sites but with Pinot
Meunier and, increasingly, Chardonnay
planted elsewhere.
The east-fac ing slope south of Epernay
(topographically not unlike the Cote de
Beau ne) 1s the Cote des Blancs, planted with
Chardonnay that gives fr eshness and finesse
to a ble nd. Cramant, Av1ze, and Le Mesnil are
three villages with long-respected names for
•I•
Th ese vm eyards outside Maney,
west ofCramant, give some idea
of the monocultural nature of the
Champagne region. And who would
want to plant potatoes?
their wines. (The Cote de Sezan ne - see
map on the previous page - is effectively a
slightly less distinguished extension of the
Cote des Blancs )
Village ranks
These (and all Cham pagne-appellation)
villages are classified in a ran king known as
the echelle (ladder) des crus, which gives the
grapes of every commune a percentage
rating. Until this century an indicative grape
price was agreed for the harvest as a whole.
A grower in one of the Grand Cru communes
would be paid 100% of the price Premiers
Crus would receive between 99% and 90%,
accord ing to their place on the ladder, and
so on down to 80% for some of the outlying
areas . Now the grape price is agreed on an
individual basis between the grower and the
producer, although the vineyard ratings may
sti ll apply - and some would like to see the
ratings rev ised to d1stmgu 1sh more precisely
between different vineyards' potential
Among champagnes made fr om reg1on­
w1de blends, super-luxury "prestige" brands
such as Dom Per1gnon, Roederer Cristal
Krug, Salon, Pol Roger's Winston Churchill,
and Ta1ttinger's Comtes de Champagne
natural ly have the highest average eche/le
rating 1n their constituent wines Growers'
•I•

champagnes,
on the other
hand, can often
be blended
excl usively from
several Grand and
Prem ier Cru villages,
orcan even come from a
single village or vineyard .
Krug and Bollinger have long
been ex ponents offe rmenting
their base wines in oak. An
mcreasmg number ofot her
producers, Including many of the
more ambitious growers, are
following suit. The resulting wines
invariably need bottle-age . Of all
wmes, top champagnes are aged
longest befo re release - up to 10
years. It is a crime to chill them and
swill them unthinkingly - let alone
to spray them on a podium. The
cheapest champagnes have httle to
offer at any stage beyond bubbles
But they spray1ust as well.
I•
•Is
CHAMPAG NE · F�ANCI
12
Thi• swathe ofnorth·
fa cing vineyard• at such
a high latitude could
result In d/aastrous/y
underrlpe grape• for
•ti/I wine, but high
acidity Is an attribute In
spark/mg wine.
Th roughout this map the vineyards cluster
neatly round the lower slopes ofthe hills
The darker, pinker purple tint highlights the
vil
l
ages deemed Grands Crus; the variation
oftopography within each block suggests it
is unlikely that all vineyards in a single vil
l
age
are of equal quality.
Departement boundary
canton boundary
Grand Cru commune vineyard
Premier Cru commune vineyard
c=J Other vineyard
Noted vineyard
Woods
Contour interval 20 metres
T
Weather stal1on CWSJ
1157,00
0
KmO
6Km
Milo.0
,,,.
._
I•
0
T
E
T
'.'.
.

84
FRANCE
Bordeaux
A vast region of potentially long-lived reds
and sweet whites and dry whites that also
owe much to barrel-ageing. It Includes the
grandest wine estates In the world, and
some of the financially most precarious.
Te rroir Well-drai ned gravels on the left
bank's best sites, and various combinations
ofclay, limestone, and sand on the right bank
where the ocean infl uence is less marked .
Climate Maritime with increasingly hot,
humid summers. Occasional rai n at harvest.
Hail and spring frost not unknown.
Grape varieties R : Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc; W: Semillon,
Sauvignon Blanc
If Burgundy's appeal 1s unas hamedly sensual,
Bordeaux's 1s more cerebral and, increasingly,
financial On the one hand is the natu re
of the wme itself at its best (meaning fu lly
mature) indescribably subtle m nuance and
complexity. On the other 1s the sheer
intellectual challenge of so many estates,
or chateaux as they are cal led here, m so
many regions and subregions - and the way
in which fine Bordeaux has, regrettably but
inescapably, become a trading commod ity.
It has always been a status symbol; suddenly
a whole new market 1s seeking status The
result? An alarming increase m the premium
on the most fa mous names - which tend to
come from the most fa voured spots on the
maps that follow. Nowhere else in the wine
world is the hnk between geography and
finance so evident(see pp.46·-47).
Bordeaux 1s the largest fine wine d1str1ct on
earth The whole departement ofthe
G1ronde, named after the estuary at its heart,
1s dedicated to wine-growing. All of its wine
has the right to the name of Bordeaux. Its
production, about 6 mil hon hectolitres a year,
dwarfs that of all French regions except for
the vast Languedoc- Roussillon Red wines
outnumber white by nine to one
The great red wine areas are the Medoc,
north of the city of Bordeaux, and to the
south the best of the Grav es, Pessac ­
Leognan, on the west bank of the Garonne.
These are the so-called "left bank" wines
The "right bank" consists of St-Em1lion and
Pomerol and their 1mmed1ate neighbours
along the north bank of the Dordogne.
The country betwee n the two rivers 1s
called Entre - Deux Mers, a name found only
on bottles of its dry white wines, although
th11 region also makes three-quarters of
all the red wme sold as AC Bordeaux and
Bordeaux Super1eur. In the far south of
the map opposite hes Bordeaux's centre of
sweet white wine production.
Bordeaux's great glories are its finest red
wines (the world's archetypes for blends of
Cabernet and Merlot); the tmy production of
very sweet, go lden Sauternes, which can hve
even longer, and some unique dry whites
made m the Graves. But not al l Bordeaux 1s
glorious; the vineyard 1s sti ll too big (it had
expanded to 273,577 acres/11 0,71 3ha by
2016) Some vines have been pulled out
since the opt1mist1c years at the begi nning
of the 21 st century, but not nearly enough.
The most fa voured areas, for the reasons
outlined overleaf, produce some of the
world's greatest wines and command
some ofthe world's highest prices. In less
glamorous areas, however, are far too many
vine-growers without the means, incentive,
will or, m some cases, the physical ab1hty to
produce interesting wme. This has led to
sensible consohdat1on. By 2016, there were
half as many vine-growers (6,568) as there
had been 20 years before and over two ­
th1rds of the v1gnoble consisted of holdings
greater than 50 acres (20 ha)
The var1ab1hty of Bordeaux's chmate means
that in some years (though fe wer than m the
past) basic red Bordeaux looks a very puny
thing alongside the Cabernets so reliably
ripened in much of the New World The
straight Bordeaux appellation, which 1s
applied to more red wme than the total
South African or German vintage each year,
upholds the glory of th1s world-fam ous region
only in ripe years Should poor wine be allowed
to sully a great name? After much debate
on how to solve this problem, including the
uprooting ofless fa voured vineyards, a Vin de
Pays de l'Atlant1que (now IGP) was created in
2006 fo r wine in al l three colours But a more
popular solution has proved to be the
declass1ficat1on of wines to Vin de France
Bordeaux's appellations
Compared with Burgundy, the system of
appellations in Bordeaux 1s simple. The map
opposite shows them al l, even those as rare
as Cotes de Bordeau x-St-M aca1re Within
them it is the wine chlteaux (sometimes
grand estates, sometimes no more than a
smallholding with cellar attached) that look
after their own identification problem. On
the other hand there 1s a form of vineyard
classification by quality built into the system
in Burgundy that 1s missing in Bordeaux.
Here, 1n its place, 1s a variety of local chateau
classifications, unfortunately without a
common standard .
By far the most fam ous 1s the class1ficat1on
of the wines of the chlteaux of Sauternes and
the Medoc - plus ChAteau Haut-Brion ofwhat
was then cal led Graves which was finalized
in 1855, based on their val ue as assessed by
Bordeaux brokers at the time. Its first,
BORDEAUX: MEH.IG AC
La titude / Eleva tion of WS
44.83° I 154ft (47 ml
Ave r age
growi ng eason temperature at WS
63.a°F <11.1°c>
Average annual ra infall at WS
37.2in (944 mm)
Harvest month rainfall at WS
September 3.31n (84mm)
Principal viticultural hazards
Autumn rain, fu ngal diseases
second, third, fourth, and fifth "growths", or
crus, represent the most amb1t1ous gradi ng
ofagricultural produce ever atte mpted. It
1dent1fied the properties with the highest
potential, as the following pages detail.
Redrawing the map
Where present standards depart from the
1855 ranking there 1s usual ly an ex planation
(an industrious proprietor then and a lazy
one now, or, much more likely nowadays, vice
versa). Even more to the point, in most cases
land has been ad ded or exc hanged; few
vineyards are precisely the same. The
vineyards of a chateau rarely surround 1t
in a neat plot More often by now they are
scattered and intermi ngled with those of
their neighbours They can produce annually
anything from 10 to 1,000 barrels of wine,
eac h holding the rough equivalent of 300
bottles, or 25 cases. The best vineyards
make a maximum of 5,000 litres from eac h
hectare of vines, the less good ones
considerably more (see the panel on p.87).
The super- luxury first growths, which can
easily make as many as 150,000 bottles of
their principal wme, or grand vm, as opposed
to a second or even third wine, traditionally
fe tch at least twice the price of the second
growths. But a fifth growth may fe tch more,
for exam ple, than a second 1f 1t 1s better
run. The system ad opted on the maps that
appear on tne following pages is simply to
d1stingu1sh between first-growth vineyards
(in areas where they ex ist) and the vineyard s
that surround them.
Of particular long-term significance for the
region is the vast improvement m v1ticultural
practices that has been effected since the
m1d -1 990s. Far more prod ucers nowadays
are able to harvest fully ripe grapes, not
Just becau se of climate change, but thanks
to stricter pruning throughout the year,
higher trellising, more careful canopy
management, and much more cautious
use ofagroc hemicals, although Bord eaux's
relatively high, and apparently increas ing,
humidity has meant that growers here have
been slower to give them up than many of
their counterparts elsewhere

J.n,.
.
le Verdon
Pomtedala
BORDEAUX • P' .. ANCI
sur �r 0 Chambrelle
0
Nou1oc
sur Me'f
?C)
)- Hourtin
o vo�ro c
SK:hmtoly-o
Med�
lt
��
\'
�
,
l
�
·
-."
��
:
:�
�
�
--
-
"Sau mos
�
�
�
/
0 8/ogon \
o Andernos·les·Bain
Ta ussot
0
BORDEAUX'S WINE REGIONS
The map shows vividlyjust how small a proportion of
the land devoted to the vine In the G1rond• departement
lies in the most celebrated appellations . s.. the key
below for a host of names that are hardly known
outside Bordeaux.
KmO
Mlo.O
� � St·Magn�
/�
Bel in· Bel 1et
Hoslens b
.oSonguinet
leftlank
r/
Boyo
nne\v\
/"-.
..
..
..
.
Entre-Deux-Mers
Rlaht B•nk
1 570,00
0
t{N
10
15
20Km
10Milo
o
lordeaUX'
Note how very much fu rther Inland
the kernel ofthe right bank fine wine
region is than its left bank counterp art.
The late -ripening Cabernet Sauv1gnon
used to be virtually impossible to ripen
in St-Emi/1on
..
..
0
'
,J
Mt!doc
Hi!Ut-M6doc
- P9'S8c-1.
.6og
nan
c=
=i
Entre-Deux-Mers
Blaye and Blaye COtes de Bordeaux
� Pnnc1pal wme commune
Graves de Vayres
- COtes de Bourg
c:
::!
!:J
Area mapped at larger scale
Gad11/ac COtes de Bordeaux and
Fronsac and Ganon- Fronsac
on page shown
-
Graves
Prem11!
!
res Cotes de Bordeaux
-
Lalande-de-Pomerol
,. Weather station (WS)
-
Bordeaux Haut-Benauge and
- Pomerol
Entre-Deux-Mers Haut-Benauge
-rhons/Gr
av
es
c=
=i
Loup1ac
- St-tm1hon satellites
Departement boundary
Ste-Croix-du-Mont
Francs Cotes de Bordeaux
L1m1t of Bordeaux appellation
sauternes and Barsac
-
Cotes de Bordeaux-St Macalre
St· tm1llon
ste- Foy COies de BordMux
-
Castillon COtes de Bordeaux
/•
•I•
..
I•
II
D
'
'
r

•
•
•
c
c
o
[
T
86
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
Bordeaux: Qual ity and Price
The quality and quantity of wine the
Bordeaux region produces each year
may vary, but as the world's biggest
resource of fine wine, it clearly has some
geographical advantages, outlined on
the map below. The weather during
flowering in June 1s unreliable, which 1s why
the crop size can vary considerably, but
summers (and particularly autumns) are
usually reliably warm and sunny Average
WHAT MAKES THE WINE
Some ofthefac tors affecting the
varyingqualities and character of
Bordeaux wine are shown in this
diagram of the G1ronde basin.
temperat ure is higher than in Burgundy, but
so 1s rainfall by quite a margi n - compare the
stat1st1cs on p.84 and p.55.
Because these grapes all flower at
slightly different ti mes, growing a mix of
them provides chateau owners
.
with some
insurance agai nst a few days of bad weather
at the cr1t1cal time in June, and against
a particularly cool autumn which may fa il
to coax Cabernet Sauv1gnon to its fu ll
ripenes s. Until quite recently 1twas di fficult
to ripen Cabernet Sauv1gnon rel iably as far
from the moderating infl uence of the
Atlantic as St-Em11ion and Pomerol, where
earlier- ripening Merlot and Cabernet Franc
are the trad itional c rops. This is one of the
reasons that the two banks tend to produce
such very different styles of wine.
But there are clearly differences in soil
structure and soil type all over the Bordeaux
Drainage by river and
stream: best growths
have good drainage.
Islands in the Gironda;
more silt than gravel.
Marginal wine production.
Flat river-silt land,
locally called pa/us,
fe rtile but no IO(lger
used fo r vineyards.
More clay fu rther fr om river
and downriver: higher acidity,
coarser wines.
River helps to keep even
temperature by drzy and night. This
helps in reducing fr ost damage (as
was shown in 1991 and 2017)
Clay with limestone:
average to good reds
and average whites.
Also, a lot ofsandy soil
in Blaye on which good
wh
,
Rln
.wl
l
li"'I
..
..
.,.
..,
,
..
.
,.
Va rious gravelly soils,
including clay, in Pomerol
and the western part of
St·Emil1on.
Banks ofgravel provide warm,
well-drained soil for vine&
First growths do not aH shdre
the same soil typ e; some h«ve
deep gra velly soils (Haut-Brlont
others stony clay soils (Lat;our,
Lafite), and even limestone
soils (Margaux, Laflte).
Pine fo rests pro vide
protection fr om strong
salt winds, and also
moderate rainfall.
Soils ofPessac·
Leognan are highly
variable. Besides
gra vel, there are al.a
various ltmestone e.ol/s
and sandy so/ls. GflOC/
red and whit. w/lf#.
Highest rainfall In .the
Bordeaux area.
At/antic 0090fJ
influence meaM Mild
winters and warm
summers; a �te
and stable climate with
relatively fe w frosts
severe enough to kil
l
vines In winter or harm
buds in spring.
- Vineyards
Mu1ed cult1vlll0n and vineyards
Flat nwir-silt il
l
nds
-Forni
•I
t
{N
)-
r
I•
Bordeaux exports more than
2 ml/lion hectolitres of wine a
year. The city 1s Increasingly
surrounded by storage for
maturing fine wine.
GRAVES
Cadll
l
ac C6tes de Bordeaux,
Prem1'res C6tes de Bordeaux;
clay on limestone subsol/: good
white and red wines
>I•
St·Emilion Cotes;
limestone and
clay on slopes:
strong wines.
Sandy ground by the
river produces
generally lighter wines.
Mainly loamy so/ls
with some gravelly
soils and some
limestone. Most
wines produced in
the Entre •Deux·
Mers region are
now red, sold as
AOC Bordeaux
Soils are markedly different In Sauternes and
Barsac. In Barsac the soil Is mostly shallow
lim estone, in Sauternes, mostly gra velly soils,
but also heavy clay soils, sometimes with a llttle
limestone. Exc ellent sweet white wines with
noble rot encouraged by mists off the C1ron.
I73000
0
�O
10
20
2SKm
i-
-
�..
..
.
..
..
..
..
.
�
..
..
.
�..___,.
.
Milo
o
O
10
UMolo.

region 1mposs1ble as 1t 1s to 1dent1fy a precise
soil type with, say, first-growth quality (see
the notes on the left of the map opposite)
Even within one part of Bordeau x, the Medoc
being perhaps the most 1ntr1gu1ng exam ple,
the soil 1s said to "c hange at every step''. And
a look at the map on p.97 shows how one
portion ofIt, between St Julien and Margaux,
is an exception to the streak of superlative
wine quality that 1s the H aut- Medoc. The
map on p.85 also suggests that there 1s
something very special about the plateau of
Pomerol and St-Emilion
In ge neral terms Bordeaux soils have
developed on either Te rtiary or Quaternary
geological deposits, the former ge nerally
evolving over time into clay or limestone
soils, the latter made up of al luvial sandy
gravels left behind hundreds of thousands
ofyears ago by melted glaciers from the
MassifCentral and the Pyrenees These
grave ls, still fu lly exposed on the surfac e,
unlike the other gravels deposited in most
of the rest of southwest France, are most
marked in the Graves (hence the name),
Sauternes, which is effectively a continuation
of 1t, and the Medoc.
Dr Gerard Seguin of the University of
Bordeaux undertook some of the first key
studies of how Bordeaux soils relate to wine
quality. He studied the gravelly soils of the
Medoc, where deep- rooted vines prod uce
great wine because the gravels so effectively
regulate the water supply His most notable
discovery was that a supply of moisture to
the vine that was no more than moderate
was much more important than the exact
compos1t1on of the soil Drai nage, in other
words, 1s the key.
His successor, Cornelis van Leeuwen,
has probed fu rther and discovered that
there 1s no absolute correlation between
how deep the roots go and how good the
wine is. Old vines plus deep gravels happen
to be the perfect recipe in some parts of
the Medoc - in Margau x, for instance, where
some vrne roots penetrate as deep as 23 ft
(7 m) - but in Pomerol vines seem perfectly
capable of making great wme fr om roots
that go less than 5ft (1.5 m) into Petrus's
heavy clays. The key factor for qual ity 1s
the regu lation of water supply: ideally JUSt
slightly less than the vine wants, resulting
rn a degree ofstress.
One general observation about the
relat1onsh1p between soil and wine quality,
especially marked in Bordeaux, 1s that the
best sites stand out most distinctly in lesser
vintages, asthey dtd so clearly in 2017, when
spring frosts almost halved the amount of
wine produced but the grandest estates
remained unscathed.
Bordeaux Quality and Pri ce BORDEAUX • f' .. ANCE
17
One ofmany signs ofBordeaux's transformation mto a city of
interest to tourists, especially wme tourists, 1s the Cite du Vm,
a museum where the focus 1s on wmes of the world
WHAT IT COSTS TO MAKE BORDEAUX
The table below give the most re ent (20 17)
e ti mates of production costs in euros for
a typical AOC Bordeaux producer ( A) , a typ1 al
Medoc chateau ( B) , and a top second growth
(c). Much more newoak,for example, is u ed
forC thanB, andnoneforA.WhileAandBare
mac hine - harve ted (as nearly 9 0% of Bordeaux
is these d ays) , C'; grape are h a nd- picked and
many more vineyard operatwn are undertaken,
by hand , throughout the ear In 2 018, Cornelis
van Leeuwen, Profes or ofViticu lture at
Bordeaux University, reckoned it was possible
to produce h igh-quality grape fo r under
€ 1 5,000 a h ectare, even with 10,000 vines per
h ec t are, but the higher the ranking and elling
p rice, the greater attention to detail can be
Number of vines p er ha
Harvest costs per ha
To tal viticultural costs per ha
Average yield (hi per ha)
To tal viticultural costs per hi
Barrel-ageing
To tal costs per hi
To tal costs per bottle
affo rded Fir t growths may cost eve n more to
run than the so c alle d " uper seco nd" (C), but
the rewards are eve n greater ny Bordeaux
property run on bank borrowmgs wo uld have
to add the o t of a fixed interest rate of about
4 5%, probably amortized over 15 year (It 1s
often said , with ome justificatton, that Lhe
Credit Agrico le bank ow ns France' entire
v ignoble) . And then, of course, the co�ts in the
table leave the wine unbottled, unmarketed,
and untran ported De pite this, p1oduction
co ts look 111credibly low compared with the
elling price of a grand vill , even though this
repre ents only a (generally d1m1111sh111g)
proportion of Lhe wine old b the chateau now
that 1t ha second and third wines, too
A
B
c
3,330
5 ,000
10,000
468
754
l ,900
4,40 1
6,536
50,000
58
58
38
76
l.l6
1,300
200
400
76
313
2,100
0.57
2.35
16

88
FRANCE • BORDEAUX
Northern Medoc
Geo&raphically, the Medoc is a great
tongue of flat or barely undulating land
that lies between the Atlantic and the
broad, brown estuary of the Glronde. In
common usage its name is given to more
fine wine than any other name in the world
Margaux, St- Julien, Pau1llac, St-Estephe,
and their surrounding villages are al l
"Medoc" in location and in style
But the appellation Medoc applies only
to the northern half, which 1s distinctly less
glamorous than the Haut- Medoc to its
south. (Its old name was the Bas - Medoc.}
The well-drained dunes of gravel give
way to lower, heavier, cooler, and more
clay- dominated land north of St- Estephe,
with St-Seur1n, the last commune of the
Haut-Medoc, riding a character1st1c hump
between areas ofchannel-d rai n ed marsh
North and west of here is fe rtile, long­
settled land, with the bustling market town
of Lesparre as its capital since the days of
English rule six centuries ago.
Until recently, vineyards took their place
here with pasture, orchard, and woodland,
but after an orgy of planting they have spread
to cover al most all the higher ground where
gravel lightens the clay, centring on the
villages ofSt-Yzans, St-Christoly, Couqueques,
By, and Valeyrac along the banks of the
G1ronde estuary, and covering much of the
Wooden fishing huts perched on stilts, called
carrelets, line the Gironde estuary m the
northern Medoc.
interior in St-Germa1n-d'Esteull, Ordonnac,
Blalgnan (Caussan), and (the biggest) Begadan.
Their vineyards totalled around 13,758 acres
(5,570 ha) in 2016 In and around these villages
are some of the Bordeau� producers who
have been hardest-pressed, encouraged to
invest in both vineyard and cellar by what
seemed to be a buoyant market in the late
1990s, only to find that the market was real ly
only interested in the more fa mous chateaux
to the south.
There are no classed growths here, but
there is the greatest concentration of the
best of the rest and, in riper vintages, some
of the best-val ue Bordeaux has to offer.
Many of them are labelled Crus Bourgeois
(see panel). Ch8.teau Potensac has the same
perfectionist owners as Chateau Leov1 lle
Las Cases in St-J ulien and 1s situated on the
same slight plateau as La Cardonne and the
well- run To ur Haut-Caussan. Other notable
properties include Chateaux Castera at
St-Germain, Loudenne, overlooking the
Gironde near St-Yzan s -de- Medoc; the
wel l -distri buted Greysac, sister property to
the plump, M erlot-dom inated Rollan de By;
reliable if hght Patac he d'Aux; begu iling and
consistent La To ur de By; enterprising Vieux
Robin of Begadan, Bournac and d'Escurac of
Civrac-en-Medoc; Les Ormes Sorbet of
Couqueques; and Les Grands Chenes and
Clos Manou of St-Chr1stoly- Medoc
But there are many other wines of note,
such as Chateaux Preu1llac, Haut-Cond1ssas ,
and Laulan Ducos (one of the first Medoc
properties to be Chinese-owned), and
the Goulee blend developed by the team
at Ch!teau Cos d'Estournel in St-Estephe
The clearest way to see the d1ff.erence
between the Medocs north and soutl'l is to
compare the career of a notable bourgeois
wine mapped here with one fro m one ofthe
pages that follow. When young, there may
be little to disti nguish them: both are
vigorous (like the vines on the rich soils
ofthe northern Medoc), tannic, dry, and
tres Bordeaux. At five years, though,
the Haut-Medoc wine 1s finding that clean
transparency of flavour that will go on
developing The northern Medoc wme has
begu n to soften, but remai ns stu rdy, rather
rustic, often deep-coloured, satisfying and
savoury rather than enlightening and
i nspiring. At 10 years of age tllere has been
more softening, but usually at the expense
of "structure" · rarely the refi ning of
character that we find fu rther south
The northern Medoc 1s also home to many
of the small estates belonging to the Cru
Artisan group, a notch below Cru Bourgeois
and re launched in 2018.
CRU BOURGEOIS
Thebou r geoisie seem Lo rel ish politics. The
rule fo r the e w ine carrying the rank directly
below the Crus la e to t he immediate outh
in the H aut- Medoc have changed three time
so fa r thi centur . ln 2003theywere officially
recl ass ified , with 247 out of 490 andidaLes
making the grade. The e were ac orded a
hierarchy: Cru Bourgcoi Exceptwnnel (9) ,
Cru B ourgeo i s Supeneur (87), and Cru
Bourgeoi (15 1). H oweve r, a number of the
e lud ed chatcau contested the decision
(which was due to Land for 10 ears) and
after a lengt h w ra n gle through the Fren h
ourts the las ification wa a nnulled . In its
p l ace, for vintages 2008 lo 2017 inc lu, ivc,
was a
tem based on < nnual ta t111gs
whereby individual wine were deemed worthy
ol Cru Bourgeois status A n umb er of
well-known name obJC led tothis oystem
(wh ich had no hicmrch ) und withdrew from
the election proccso .
From the 2018v1nt. gc three grade'> have been
rei ntroduced
ru Bour gc o10 E xcept 1 01111cl,
C1 1 1 Flourgcob uperi ur, and oimpl Cru
l3ou rgeo 1; with ,l,1tu-. ncrnrd d to chull'aux
1aLhcr tlrnn o p ecilic wi nes by an impart ial
,,election proccs' l n .1 1 1 altC'mpt to dt>fu,
po ;s1ble llL1g<1 t1011 from dtogru nlil'd cnnd1da t e,,
the ncv. clJ,,.,tfwntton b dc;1g11ed lo l ,1't for
uni f1v C'ar -.. Whal �hould .i dr1nkcr do''
Henwmbcr tlw ll1ille u Jlld furg<:>t tht• ranh
lthoulo(hl\l
l
l•dot ndJl.rnt l\lcdol <m' b)l,u
the mo't co mmon .ippclht1011' of till' ( ru'
Bou q.(eot, , th1 n• ..1re ,omt 111 all of llH· 11101 1
'pcclltc co mmune .1p1w ll.1 t 1on' ol tin
Jlau t :\ll'doc

£1 Viv•e{I
d�
fiedoc
KmO
MJi.o
EAUX , l"'RANCI
BORD
Canton boundary
Commune (parish ) boundary
or producer
Notable cMteau
Vineyards
Woods
I 10 metres
Contour lnterva
1 65,00
0
•I
lord• aux
h s1'ust
Themaps ow
how essential the
drainage sys tem
installe
b
di
�::�utch
Medoc :Y
In the 17th
was
rds
entury. Vmeya
�of/owed pasture.
t
N
,.
..
'
T
'
r

90
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
St- Estep he
The gravel banks that give the Haut­
Mjdoc and Its wines their character and
quality, stretching along the shore of the
Gironde, sheltered from the ocean to the
west by fo rest, begin to peter out at
St·Estephe. It is the northernmost of the
four fa mous communes that are the heart
of the Medoc and the village 1s and fe els truly
offthe beaten track. AJalle - the Medoc
word for a stream - d1v1des the commune
from Pau1llac, dram mg on the one hand the
vineyards of Chateau Lafite, on the ot her
three ofthe five classed growths of
St- Estephe Chateaux Cos d'Estournel,
Cos Labory, and Lafon- Roc het .
There 1s a d1stmct1on between the soils of
St-Estephe and Pau1llac to the south; as the
gravel was hed down the G1ronde d1m1rnshes,
and although there are limestone outcrops,
the clay content increases This means that
the soil is heavier and drams more slowly,
which 1s why vines grown m St- Estephe seem
to withstand particularly hot, dry summers,
such as those of 2003 and 2010, better than
those in the we ll-drained gravels to the
south Even m less extreme weather the
wines tend to have more ac idity, are fu ller
and more solid, and often have less perfume
- but they fill your mouth with flavour. They
have traditionally been sturdy clarets which
can become venerable without losing vigour
In recent years, after a drift in some
quarters towards a bigger, bolder style,
St- Estephe producers seem read ier to
emphasize the commune's freshness and,
often, a certain stoniness.
Strong, dark, and long- llved
Cos d'Estournel 1s the most spectacular of
the classed growths, crowning the steep
slope up from the Pau 1llac boundary,
overlooking the meadows of Chateau Lafite.
It 1s an eccentric Chmese- pagoda'd edifice,
now home to a cutting-edge, high-tech
winery and tasting hall reminiscent of a
particularly luxurious Asian hotel lobby
Together with ChAteau Montrose, Cos
d'Estou rnel makes the biggest and best of
the St- E step hes strong wines with a dark
colour and a long hfe "Cos", as it is nearly
always called (with the S pronounced), has
particular power and succulence, not least
because of marked determination at its
helm The s1tuat1on of Montrose on its gravel
mound overlooking the G1ronde anticipates
that of Latour m Paulllac to the south.
Some find a similar echo m its intense, tannic,
deeply flavoured wine. Classic Montrose
vmtqea take 20 years to mature, although
amce 2006 new ownership, new
management, a deep commitment to
sustamab1hty and expansion of a vineyard
that 1s, most unusually for the Medoc, m
one contiguous block, are making their
presence fe lt
Of the ot her two classed growths near
Cos d'Estournel, Chateau Cos Labory often
seems content to be fu ll of fruity flavo ur at a
fa irly young age. Lafon - Rochet was the first
of many Medoc chateaux to be rebuilt in the
20th century and now makes attract ive,
reliable wines m a chai redesigned from 2013
with a return to concrete fe rmentation vats .
Galon Segur, north of the village of
St- Estephe and the northernmost classed
growth ofthe Medoc, is as solid as any
St- Estephe, but has gai ned considerably m
purity, consistency, and finesse m the new
millennium Some 250 years ago the Marquis
de Segur, owner ofboth Lafite and Latour,
reputedly said his heart was at Galon .
Above all, St- Estephe has been known for
the quality ofits Crus Bourgeois (see panel
on p.88). ChAteaux Phelan Segur and de Pez
are both outstanding producers of very fine
wine. Pez, now owned, like Pichon- Lalande
m Pau 1llac, by Louis Roederer, has an
extraordinary historical record ; as the
property of the Pontacs ofHaut- Bri on, its
wme was sold as Pontac in London in the
17th century - possibly before any other
growth of the Medoc. Neighbour Chateau
Les Ormes de Pez, far from the only
Bordeaux chateau to double as a small hotel,
benefits from the same strong management
as Chateau Ly nch- Sages m Pauillac, while
ChAteau Haut-Marbuzet to the southeast
between Montrose and Cos d'Estournel is
known for sed uctive and oaky wme.
ChAteau Meyney is unusual in the Medoc for
having monastic origi ns and, overlooking the
G1ronde like Montrose next door, argu ably
deserves a higher rank Chateaux Beau Site,
Le Boscq, Capbern, Chambert· Marbuzet and
Tour de Marbuzet, (with the same owner as
The exterior of second-growth Chdteau
Cos d'Estournel is the most dtstmctive of all
Bordeaux's classical chdteaux, supposedly
reflecting Monsieur d'Estournel's success m
selling Ms wines in the east
Haut- Marbuzet), Clauzet, Le Crock, La Haye,
Lilian Ladouys, Petit Bocq, Ser1lhan, and
Tronquoy- Lalande (now part of the Montrose
stable) are al l making wines that demonstrate
the commune's solid virtues but are usually
readyto drink much sooner than the classed
growths. Five to eight years 1s usual ly a good
age for them.
To the north ofSt- Estephe the gravel bank
diminishes to a promontory sticking out of
the palus - theflat, river-silted land beside
the estuary on which no wme ofquality grows
North ofthe promontory, in the little
village ofSt-Seurin- de- Cadourne, a cluster
of notable wines are made. the gentle,
ALL CHANGE
All three ofS t - F.stc phe' top properties ha e
changed hand this entur a lo ahzed
symptom of a region a l trend as the smarter
Bordeaux w111e estates gam rn va lue and
p res tige . Cos d ' Est ourncl was bought rrom the
Pnits fa mily (via a hort lived � 11d1calc) in
2000 bySwios hotelier and food 111nnuf,1durer
Michel ncyb1er, who ·o nlinue s to expand
his l - Est c phc por tro!io ofv1ncya rc1 ' Jnd
luxunous acco mmoda\1011 In 2 006, the third
generat ion oJ Charmol u(''> sold Monlrn.,l'
to telecoms and conolrutl 1011 bdlinnmrc
broth • r., Marl in ,1 11d Oh�1cr llouygue'
w h o arc abo rnnl111uing lo cxpJ1HI th('11
dctcr111 111cdl su'>larn.ibl<' landh0Jd111g, \nd
111 2 011, after th death of tlw indntn1tabll
DcnJ<,c . a -<qul'ton, h<'r dJui;h lll' ,oJd Culon
l\!(llr Lo ,l ll )ll'>U rtlll< l t:O lllJlolJl) a ('Oll1 11
1
0ll
Bordeaux propril·tor now .1 da) '

Merlot based Ch!teau Coufran, the more
tan n1c Chateau Ve rd 1gnan, th e sometimes
admi rable Chateau Bel Orme Tronquoy
de Lalande, and, m o st notable of all, on
a classic mound near th e river, Chateau
Soc l ando· Mallet, whose flam boyantly
ambitious wines have been known to beat
ftrst growt hs in blind tastings . The owner
ha1 always o perated outside the Cru
Bourgeois system
North of St Seurin 1s the end oft he
Haut· Medoc. Any wine grown beyond that
point qualifies for the appellation Medoc,
plain and sim ple (see p.88).
West of St· E stephe, fu rther from the
river, Cissac and Vertheuil he on stronger
and less gravelly soil at the forest's edge.
aioos
IABOllY
ChSodlndo­
Mal
let
-
Canton boundary
Commune (panshl boundary
Cru Cla�
Notable chateau or producer
Premier Cru Clas� vineyard
Cru Cla� vineyard
C:
:J
Other vineyard
C=
=:J
Woods
19· Contour interval 10 metres
142 00
0
St Sauveuri
St Estephe BORDEAUX • f'lltANCI
91
+
N
lordeaux.i
Comparing the
purple patch of
Chateau Montrose
with the ditch ·
crossed woods to
the south suggests
quite righ tly that it
owes its quality to
its gravel and the
crucial fe w fe et
above the
Gironde.
0
0
'
E
T

92
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
Pau illac
If one had to sinp out one Bordeaux
commune to head the list, there would be
no arcument. It would be Pauillac. Chateaux
Lafite, Latour, and Mouton Rothschild, three
of the five supe rstar first growths, are i ts
obvious claim - and are so successful
financially that they can affo rd to continue
to expand, renovate, innovate, and improve
But many red Bordeaux enthusiasts would
tell you that virtually any Pau 1llac has the
quintessential flavour they look for - a
combination of fresh fr uit, oak, rigour,
subtlety combined with substance, a touch
ofcigar box, a suggestion ofsweetness, and,
above all, vigour and longevity Less than 5%
of Pau1llac's area of vines is not in classed­
growth hands, and even the lesser growths
approac h the enthusiasts' ideal
At Pau 1llac the gravel mounds, or croupes, of
the Medoc get as near as they ever do to being
hills. The highest part, with Chateaux Mouton
Rothschild and Pontet-Canet on its summit,
reaches 100ft (30 m) - quite an ac hievement
in this coastal area, where a mere swelling of
the ground provides a lookout point
Pauillac 1s the biggest wine town of the
Medoc. Happily, its long-established oil
refi nery has ceased operat ion and become
a mere (though colossal) depot. Its old quay
has become a marina; a few restaurants have
opened. The Cazes fa mily of Chateau
Ly nch-Sages has endowed the sleepy hamlet
of Sages with an ambitious hotel- restau rant,
Chateau Corde1llan-Bages, an all· day
brasserie, and two or three rather smart
shops So far, that's 1t Pau1llac could scarcely
be called animated - except for one weekend
in Septem ber when thousands of runners
compete in the Marathon du Medoc (see p.96).
The vineyards of the chateaux of Pau1llac are,
on the whole, less subdivided than in most of
the Medoc. Whereas in Margaux (for example)
the chateaux are bunched together in the
town and their holdings in the surrounding
countrys ide are inextricably mixed up, in
Pau lllac whole slopes, mounds, and plateaux
belong to a single proprietor One would
therefore expect greater var1at1ons in style
derived from terro1r One 1s not disappointed
Three ftret 1rowth•
The three great wines of Pau 1llac are al l
dramatically diffe rent. Chlteaux Lafite
Rothschild and Latour stand at opposite
ends of the paris h : the first almost in
St-Estephe, the second al most in St-Julien.
Oddly enou&h, though, their characters
tend in quite the opposite direction: Lafite
more towards the smoothness and flnesse
of a St Julien, Latour more towards the
emphatic firmness of a St-Estephe.
In a typical year Lafite, which with 277 acres
(112ha) 1s one ofthe biggest vineyards 1n the
entire Medoc, makes about 640 barrels of 1ts
top wine, or grand vm - a perfumed, pol ished,
and quintessentially elegant prod uction in a
unique circular subterranean chat - and even
more, about 800 barrels, of 1ts second label,
Carruades
The firmer and more solid Latour, with its
vast stocks ofmaturing vintages m
glamorously revamped subterranean
quarters, seems to spurn elegance, expressing
its supremely privileged s1tuat1on on the hill
nearest the river in robust depths that can
take decades to reveal their complexity.
Latour has the great merit of evenness over
uneven vintages. Even the chAteau's second
wme, Les Forts de Latour, mainly from
separate parcels of land shaded on the map as
for a Cru Classe to the west and northwest of
the chlteau, 1 s considered and priced as a
second growth. A ju nior selection, sti ll
1dent1fiable in taste, 1s sold simply as Pauillac.
Mouton Rothschild 1s a third kind of
Pau1llac: strong, dark, fu ll of the savo ur of
ripe, spiced blackcurrants; some say exotic.
No visitor to Pau1llac should miss Mouton's
museum of works of art connected with wme
- old glass, pai ntings, tapestries - as well as a
gal lery devoted to the or1g1nal artwork for
eac h year's artist's label, and the new chais
that make Mouton such a showplace A
second wine, Le Petit Mouton, was introduced
in 1997 Mouton-Cadet is a big (12 m i llion
bottles a year) pan - Bordeaux brand.
Smelling the richness and fe eling the force
ofCabernet Sauv1gnon in these wines, 1t 1 s
strange to think that 1t 1s a mere 150 years
since it was recognized as the best vine
Firs t-growth Chdteau Lato ur, and its sister
properties m Burgundy, the Rhone, and
Ca/1fornta, are returning to some of the most
tradtttonal methods 1m agmable.
variety for the Medoc Up to that time even
the first growths had establi shed the
super1or1ty of their terro1rs with a mixture of
less distinguished grape var1et1es - above all
Malbec. But the best Cabernet Sauvignon is
fam ously slow to mature. Given the 10 or
often even 20 years they need (dependi ng on
the quality of the vintage), these wmes reach
into real ms of perfection where they are
rarely followed But m1lliona1res are
1mpat1ent: too much is d ru nk far too young.
Second·crowth rivals
The southern approach to Pau illac, the 02,
is flanked by the two rival second-growth
halves of the h1stor1c Pichon estate. For
years Pichon Lalande (as Chlteau Pichon
Longueville Co mtesse de Laland e 1s kn own)
had the better name, but Chateau Pichon
Baron 1s now challenging even the first
growths The key ingredient here has been
investment from its owners, AXA, on
a massive scale, al lowing the strictest
selection from the core of the vineyard Not
to be outdone, champagne house Louis
Roederer, which bought Pichon- Lalande
ac ross the road 1n 2007, has restructured
the vineyard, built new cellars, and renovated
that chateau , too.
Chlteau Lynch Sages, though "on ly" a fifth
growth, has long been loved, particu larl y in
Britain, for i ts richly spicy wine a sort of
Mouton fo r not-quite m1lhona1res It, too, has
built new cellars. To the north ofthe town.

13500
0
MleoO
/2
First-growth Chdteau
Latour owns fo ur
additional inland
parcels for its second
wine, Les Forts de
Latour, and third wine,
Pauil/ac de Chdteau
Latour, so only the best
goes into its grand vm.
Wh at is surprising is
their fa mily likeness.
b1odynam1c pioneer Pontet­
Canet is a superbly sited
neighbour to Mouton but tastes
utterly different. sohd where Mouton is
1Mole
open and opulent. Chateau Pedesclaux, on
the other, estuary side ofthe northern hamlet
of Le Pouyalet, has been expanded and
revitalized. Chateau Duhart- Milon belongs
to the Rothschilds of Lafite, and Chateaux
d'Armailhac and Clerc Milon to Mouton. All
three clearly benefit from the wealth and
technical knowledge of their proprietors and
managers - witness the new cellars at Clerc
Milon. Chateaux Bata1 lley and traditionally
finer Haut-Satatlley (now owned by Lynch­
Bages), both archetypal Pau illacs, he back
from the rtver in thefringe ofthe woods.
The dependably stylish and not overpriced
Grand Puy-Lacoste Js managed by Fram;o1s
Xavier Borie, whose brother Bruno runs
Ducru-BeaucalUou in St-Julien Grand- P uy­
Ducas
s
e also expresses Itself 1n the firm,
energetic tones ofa fine Pauillac. Lacoste
112
ST-JULIE
1s one conti nuous vineyard on high ground,
surrounding Its chAteAu, while the Ducasse
property 1s scattered in three separate
parcels to the north and west of Pau 1llac,
and its old chateau 1s situated right on the
quay in the town itself.
Chateau H aut- Sages Liberal, its vineyards
propitiously sited In St-Lam bert, has ac quired
n ew premises and a new, biodynam1c lease
of life, while Chlteau Cro1 zet-Bages struggles
to keep up Chateau Lynch - M oussas, run in
conjunction with ChAteau Bata1lley, sells
consistent wine at modest prices.
•I•
Pau !lac. BORDEAUX • F .. ANCI
ti
CHl.\l'OIJ
R
ChPlbna
'"""
""'
-
Canton boundary
Commune (panshl boundary
Cru Classe
Notable chateau or producer
l.Jeu-d1t
Premier Cru Classe Vineyard
Cru Cla� vineyard
Other v1ney1rd
Wo
od
s
Contour lnmrval 10 metres
Q)
""o
c:
0
'
T
F
'G

St-Julien
The wines of St-Julien are arguably the
most consistent in the Medoc. Such a
small commune, with the smallest total
production of the Medoc fa mous fo ur,
maynothaveafirstgrowthbutitisa
ro ll-call of excellence, of classic claret.
Almost 90% of the vines are owned by
classed growths, even ifth1s includes the
unclassified Chateau Lalande-Bor1e, owned
by the second-growth Chateau Ducru­
Beauca1 llou, Chateau Moulin Riche, belonging
to the Cuvehers of Chateau Leoville­
Poyferre, and the overperformer Chateau
Gloria, run in tandem with Chateau St- Pierre.
Almost all of St-Julien 1s superlative
wine-growing land. typical mounds ofgravel,
not as deep as in Pau 1llac, but all are either
close to the river or sloping south to the
considerable valley (considerable by Medoc
standard s, that is) drained by the Jalle du
Nord and the Chenal du Milieu at the
southern edge of the commune.
Thus the great chlteaux of St· Julien d1v1de
into two groups. The r1vers1de estates are
ep1tom1zed by the three Leov1lles, situated
around the village of St-Julien itself. The
southern group is centred on the village of
Beychevelle, led by Chlteaux Beychevelle,
Brana1re Ducru, and Ducru-Beaucalllou, and
reac h es back past Chiteau Gruaud Larose
to Chlteau Lagrange far i nland If Pawllac
makes the most striking and brilliant wine of
the Medoc, and Margaux the most refi ned
and exqu111te, St- Julien fo rms the tran s1t1on
between the two. With comparatively few
exceptions, 1 t1 chiteaux make rather round
and ge ntle wine - ge ntle, that 1s, when 1t 1s
matu re, 1t starts as tough and tan mc in a
good year as any
The three Leovllles
The principal glory of the commune is the
vast estate of Leov1lle, on the boundary with
Pauillac, once the biggest in the Medoc, now
divided into three. Chateau Leov1 lle Las
Cases has the most extensive vineyards of
the three, with 240 acres (al most 100ha),
although the heart of the estate is the
131-acre (53-ha) Grand Enclos. Its dense,
almost austere, long- lived wine is so
obviously "classic", and the Delon fam ily who
run 1t so astute, that Leoville Las Cases 1s
sometimes priced almost at first-growth
levels Leov11le Barton runs it a close race,
and belongs to the old Irish merchant fam ily
of Barton, who moved to Bordeaux early in
the 18th century Anthony Barton l ives in the
beautiful 18th-century Chlteau Langoa
Barton n ext door, and makes his two wines
side by side in the same chai. Langoa is
usually rec koned the slightly lesser wine of
the two, but both are among the finest of
clarets in a traditional manner and are never
less than good value, even in tricky years
Leov1lle-Poyferre has perhaps more obvious
stuffing and dramatic glamour, and now
more than merits its second ·growth status .
To the south of the Leov1lles, Bruno Bor1e's
Chlteau Ducru- Beaucaillou, with Its Italianate
mansion, has established a style of Its own,
distinct in emphasizing both richness and
finesse at a very high level, while 1ta neighbou r
Branaire-Ducru equally expresses the suave
quality of St-Julien . Chlteau Beychevelle,
a fav ourite with Chinese wme buyers, 1s an
18th-century mansion, enjoying a commanding
In 2017, Beycheve/le had a makeover, including
a new cha1 with a maritime theme, a nod to the
ship on the chateau's label. The wme ages
under a sea of copper waves.
position on a bend with an eye-catchmg
glass-fronted chai and glamorous hotel
and restaurant. Nearby St- Pierre and its
stablemate Gloria have also been updated by
an ambitious architect, their wi nes conveymg
finesse and elegance with an easy plumpness
that 1s intensely seductive.
Chateau Gruaud Larose marks the begmmng
of the "inland" section of St-J ulien, with wines
whose richness and drive can put them m the
very top ran k. Chateau Talbot, which occupies
the central high ground of the commune,
may be a shade less fine, but is consistently
dense, smooth, and savoury - perhaps
owing al most as much to wmemakmg skill
as to its site.
The last of the classed growths, and the
largest Medoc classed growth of al l, Chlteau
Lagrange, used to be very highly regarded for
its rich, substantial wine Suntory of Jape.n
acq uired it in 1983 and has brought 1t back Into
focus. It lies far back 1n the sleepy hinterland
on the border of St-Laurent (whose
appellation is Haut- Medoc, like that ofthe
vast and improving Larose-Trlntaudon
estate). Here is a group ofthree more classed
growths, all in different stages of resurrection.
La To ur Carnet 1s most advanced and
nowadays makes al luring wine. Camensac, now
owned by the Merlaut fa mily of Gruaud Larose,
was replanted a few years later Chateau
Belgrave has also been restored, 1n this case
by the negoc1ant Dourthe but this area
never manages to produce quite the class of
the vmeyards closer to the G1ronde

THE BURGEONING WHITE WINES OF THE MEDOC
�JIHl thl' 198(), thei r h,1, been a rtv1val ol
\1-hltl \\ llll' productw11 111 lhl' l\ ·1 edo (tobe
l ollo,,.t• d h) .1 trt nd towmd' making white wine'
llll lhl 11j.!hl b,rn k, loo) Ch.i lc.iu Margaux ha�
tht• longe'l modt>rn h1-,tor ofwl11lc wine
produttmn having made a while wine <incc lhc
1920,, nncl lhc1t 1> a mention ol a white wine in
ll" t<llh ce ntury Jtd 11vc . Pavilion J3l,111c du
Ch.1tl'a\1 I .i r gm1 >. , the first offering fro m lhc
new regime when lhl' fi r l grow th wa� acq uired
bv the Mcntzelopoulo' fdmil , i arguabl the
"'orid',
,
1 i he,,t, occa 1onallyoak1e5l, all­
S,1uvig11on w i n e , grown on land not part icularly
8t11lable fo r red wine g rnpcs. Apart from
providing Medo proprietors with something to
�e rve with lhe li rol course, lhis is lhe u 'ual
rul10nalc for planting while wine grapes.
St-Julien's Chateau Talbot has long been
ao'>ociated wi th its Sa uvignon Bl a n c/Se millon
blend Cai)Jou Blanc. From a small vineyard in
Pau1llac thathad proved unsati factory for red
wine produ c tion, fllanc d<> Ly nch- fk1ge" wa'>
launched w i t h the 1990 vmlagc. hat au
Mouton Tioth�chdd fo llowed the next ye ar by
lau n hing Ailc d 'Argcnl, aimed al the 'amc
l u xury market a> Pav1llon Blan du Chlltcau
Margaux, and another t Julien prope rty,
Chiiteau Lagra nge, has been produci ng it dry
white (111 luding auv1gnon Gri'>) <,111ce the 1996
vin tage from a sand corner of lhc vineyard
Interesting dry wh i t es con tinue to emerge fro m
va rious vineya rds in the Medo
notably in
Listr, c from the likes of Fonreaud, Sarnnsol
Dupre,Cl arke, and more reccntl Four as
Hosten and flourcas Dupre JI, even tho c of the
fir t growth�. have to make do with thegencri
Bordeaux appellation, or imply be sold as Vin
de France, in the case oflhose that arc not made
from the permilted Bordeau grape varieties
auv1gnon B l a nc, Sc millon, Muscad e lle , and
Sa u v1gnon Gris Producer cem able to ask quilc
healthyprice for them See also p.104
Canton boundary
Commune (panshl boundary
QI IAGllANGI! Cru Classe
(h Ulande- Notable chateau or producer
Bode
IBnt:lol l.Jeu-d1t
.
St Laurent-
Premier Cru Classe vineyard
Modoc
Cru Classe vineyard
C:=J Other vineyard
c=i Woods
--20 Contour interval 10 metres
--
-
t---------
-- ....�
0
��/Q
12
,,
•I
St Julien BORDEAUX · FRANC!
II
t
f"
N;-
16
'
'F

96
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
Central
Medoc
This is the stretch of the drive up the
Haut-Mectoc during which the dedicated
wine tourist (ifa passenger) can enjoy a
little snooze. Four villages pass without a
single classed growth; their appellation simply
Haut- Medoc Here the gravel mounds rise less
proudly above the river and the water table 1s
much higher, leaving vines watered more
read ily - and even underwater after heavy
rai ns - and the wines they produce generally
less fine. The commune of Cussac maintains
some of the momentum of St-J ulien - indeed,
there 1s the rather forlorn local hope of having
some of 1ts land reclassified as such. This, even
more than St-Estephe, 1s bourgeois country;
many of the finest Crus Bourgeois and other
unclassified chateaux are to be found here In
Mouhs, Chateaux Chasse-Spleen and Pouieaux
are capable of making some of Bordeaux's
best-value wines. Both he on the outskirts of
the little hamlet with the grand name of Grand
Pouieaux well west of Arcins, the village where
the gravel ridges rise and fan out inland,
culminating at Grand Poujeaux and at Listrac
Mouhs and L1strac are communes dignified
with appellations of their own instead of the
portmanteau "Haut-Medoc", and in recent
years have risen steadily in reputation.
Quality rises with the gravel and its
water- metering effects. Chasse-Spleen can
be viewed almost as an honorary St-J ulien
for its smoothness and ac cessi bility, and yet
1t does not lack structure. Chateau Poujeaux,
showing increased polish recently, can be
iust as impressive, 1f usually rather more
ro bust and less subtle. Between these two
properties, the village of Grand Pouieaux 1s
surrounded by a knot of properties with
"G rand Poujeaux" in their names. Grassier,
Dutruch, La Closer1e, and Branas, all reliable
for stout · hearted, long-lived reds with the
flavo ur that makes the Medoc unique Just
north of here, Chateau Maucaillou can
someti mes offer exceptional val ue and 1s,
unusually for this less glamorous stretch of
the H aut· Medoc, open to casual v1s1tors . The
Moulis property Chlteau Mauvesin Barton
was bought by Lilian Barton of Leov1lle
Barton and fa mily in 2011 It Is just off the
map to the southwest of Moulis ·en- Medoc,
and 1s likely to generate interest, despite
losing practically al l its potential crop 1n the
infamous 2017 spring frost.
L1strac, even fu rther inland, has a higher
plateau, l i mestone beneath its gravel, and,
although prod ucers have recently tried to
change 1t by planting more Merlot to soften
them, a reputation for tough, tan nic wines .
The name here ts Fourcas, of the four
chateaux that bear 1t, Hosten, Dupre, and
particularly Bor1e are all of interest.
Today's thoroughly modernized Chateau
Clarke, whose total area has grown to 136
acres (55 ha) ofvines, hes iust within L1st rac,
and was the creation of the late Baron
Edmond de Rothschild. Every luxury has been
lavished on 1t, but the contrast between its
wines and those of the two first-growth
Rothschild estates in Pau1llac provides a v1v1d
illustration of terro1r's superiority over
investment The twi n chateaux Fonreaud and
Lestage south of the village of L1strac have
182 acres (74ha) between them. These
redeveloped estates temper the L1strac
austerity and make rou nder wines, which may
help to make the appellation better known.
Closer to the river
In the north of the area mapped, the
Haut- Medoc Chateau Lanessan fac es
St-Julien across the canal that separates the
parishes. Lanessan and Caronna Ste -Gemme
(largely in St- Lau rent) are well- run estates
whose owners can afford re latively high
standards. Otherwise Cussac has little of the
all- important gravel (the fo rest here comes
close to the river), and Chateau Beaumont
occupies its best outcrop. Its wine 1s easy,
fragrant, quick to mature - and
correspondingly popular Oddly, Chateau
To ur du Haut-Mouli n in Vieux Cussac 1s JU St
the oppos ite; dark, old-fa s hioned , need ing
years - but worth the watt.
The riverside here is worth a visit to see the
17th-century battlements of the Fort Medoc
- an anti· English precaution now turned to
peacefu l uses At Lamarque an earlier
fo rtress, the splendid Chiteau de Lamarque,
has established a name for carefully made,
satisfyingly fu ll·bodied wine with thetrue
stamp ofthe Medoc on 1t . Lamarque 1s the
The annual Marathon du Medoc: 26.2 miles
(42 2km) through scenic vineyards, compulsory
fa ncy dress with 23 glasses ofwme en route,
plus local spec1alit1es such as oys ters, foie gras,
cheese, steak, and ice -cream. Water optional.
Medoc's link with Blaye on the other side of
the G1ronde; a regular car-fe rry service runs
from the pier. It 1s also notable for being the
base of Eric Bo1ssenot, the Medoc's most
ad mired professional oenologist.
A good deal of replanting has given the area
a more purposeful look in recent years.
Chateau Malescasse has been upgraded to
useful effect under new ownership. And in
the next commune south, Arcins, the big old
properties of Chateau Barreyres and
Chateau d'Arcins have been substantially
replanted by the Castel fa mily, whose empire
stretches as far as Ethiopia. The Castels and
their we ll-managed neighbour, Chateau
Arnau Id, are steadily making Arcins better
known. The village's chief claim to fa me,
however, is still the little Lion d 'Or: the
Medoc's wine-trade canteen
Beyond the Estey de Tayac ditch, in the
southeast corner of the area, we enter the
sphere of Margaux The extensive ChAteau
C1tran Is owned by the Merlaut fa mily. It and
the smaller Vlllegeorge (off this map to the
south, but a name to watch) he in the
commu ne of Ave nsan. Both are well known
and approach Margaux in style
Soussans 1s among the communes whose
appellation 1s not merely Haut·Medoc but
Margaux, a n ame some proprietors iust north
of here would like to appropriate. Chiteaux La
Tou r de Mons and Paveil de Luze continue to
be certified as Crus Bourgeois, the latter
being fo r a century the stylish country resort
of one of the great merchant fam ilies of
Bordeaux, making the kind of easy, elegant
wines the fa mily hked.

Canton boundary
Commune (parish) boundary
m ,,. l'IIRRL Cru Classe
Ch..
..
..
.,.
.
Notable cMteau or producer
Cru ClaTM vineyard
[=
==1
Other vineyard
C:
::=J
Woods
Contour interval 10 metres
1 42,00
0
The railway was built in the late 19th century
to link Bordeaux and the A tlantic. River and
road transport were preferred for wine, but
trams bound for Lesparre and the Royan
ferry across the mouth of the Gironda still
stop at Moulis -Listrac, Margaux, and Pauil
l
ac
for wine tourists.
Lesparre-Medac
51-1.Durent-Medac
\
112
th Moulin
de 12 Ro>e
Paudlac �
eychevelle
ST-JULIE
>;
,,,
Central Medoc BORDEAUX • l' .. ANCI
91
Neuf
•I•
t
N)-
1
Ferry to
Blaye
A
i
D
T

98
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
Margaux and the Southern Medoc
Margaux and Cantenac, the village just
south of It, are capable of making the
Medoc's most polished and fragrant wi ne.
Their h1stor1cal record says so, and
contemporary reahty 1s catching up once
more, after a period of flirtat1on with alcohol
and oak There are more second and third
growths here than anywhere, and a new
broom has been sweeping through the
southern Medoc.
The map shows a rather different picture
from Pau1llac or St- Julien. Instead of the
chateaux being spread out evenly over the
land, they are huddled together in the villages.
The soil of Margaux 1s the thinnest and most
gravelly in the Medoc, so that vines may root
as deep as 23ft (7m) fo r their steady but
meagre supply ofwater The result 1s wines
that start hfe comparatively supple, although
in poor years they can turn out thin. In good
and great years, however, all the stories about
the virtues of gravel are justified: there is
a delicacy about archetypal Margaux, and a
sweet, haunting perfume, that can make 1t
the most exq uisite claret of all.
The wines of Chateaux Margaux and Pal mer
are the ones that most often reach such
heights. Chateau Margaux 1s not iust the lone
first growth of the southern Medoc, it is the
one that most looks the part. a pediment at
the end of an avenue; the air ofa palace with
cha1s to match (new ones designed by
renowned British architect Norman Foster,
no less) The Mentzelopoulos fam ily ac quired
1t in 1978 and has been making superlative
wine ever si nce The seminal oaked wh ite
Pavi l io n Blanc du Chateau Margaux, grown
on the western hm1t of the map opposite, 1s
discussed o n p. 95 The s1m1larly renovated
third growth Chateau Palmer, more
dependent on Merlot, sometimes challenges
the first growth, although the estate's early
embrace of b1odynam1c viticulture can
present its own challenges in wet growing
seasons. Chateau Lascombes (owned
successively by Russian wine writer Alexis
L1chine, Enghsh brewer Bass, an American
investment syndicate, and now a French
insurance group) 1s a case where more land
acq u1sit1on diluted second-growth quahty 1n
the 1970s and '80s. Today, its bold, ripe wines
are bolstered by Merlot planti ngs . Nearby,
the recently revived little th1rd·growth
Chateau Fe rriere 1s prod ucing convi ncing
Margaux with character1st1c finesse
Margaux's double acts
Ofthefamous pair that used to bethe big
Rauzan estate, as fa mous in the 18th century
as Leoville was in St·Julien, Rauzan·Segla
(once Rausan-Segla) 1s today one of the
Medoc's superstars, having been reformed m
the 1980s and taken firmly in hand from 1994
by the fa mily behind fas hion house Chanel
The smaller Rauzan·Gassies has lagged far
behind second-growth standards, although 1t
1s showing some 1nchnation to narrow the gap.
There are several d1stingu1shed pairs
of chateaux in Margaux. The two second
growths, Brane-Cantenac and Durfort·
Vivens, are owned by different members
of the ub1qu1tous Lurton family, yet make
distinctly different wine: the Brane fragrant
and almost melting, the Durfort much
improved rec ently, and certified b1odynam1c,
but st ill marked by almost as high a proportion
of Cabernet Sauv1gnon as Chateau Margaux .
A t iny vestige of the th1rd ·growth Desm1ra1l
has been re surrected to io1n them as a third
bowstring to the Lurton properties here
Fo urth-growth Pouget is the often -fo rceful
brother of third -growth Boyd-Cantenac.
Malescot St-Exupery has hit high (and
sometimes low) notes under the ownership
of the Zuger fa mily, while the small third­
growth Chateau Marquis d'Alesme has been
spectacularly restored and made tour1st­
fr iendly by the Perrodo fa mily, which has also
taken unclassified Chateau Labegorce,
incorporati ng Labegorce-Zede, m hand.
St ill in Margaux proper, fourth-growth
Chateau Marquis de Te rme, although rarely
seen ab road , now makes rather good wine, and
beautiful third -growth Chateau d'lssan has
one of the best s1tuat1ons tn Margaux, with
its vineyard sloping gently towards the river.
Its wines taste reassuringly like Margaux.
In Cantenac Itself, Chateau Prieure-L1chine
was deserved ly fa mous for making some of
Margaux's most consistent claret when 1t
was owned by Alexis L1chine - and also for
being the first to ad mit passers-by in a way
which has, remarkably, only just become
accepted pract ice. Chateau Kirwan is once
more showing Margaux finesse after dallying
with heft. Yet another tale of restoration and
renewed quahty has been the lonely Chateau
du Tertre, isolated on high ground well inland
in Arsac, under the same dynamic Dutch
ownership as Chateau G1scours . Chateau
Cantenac-Brown, which competes for the
prize of ugliest Medoc chateau (it looks hke
a Victorian boarding school), fl anks Brane­
Cantenac and makes some of Margaux's
most solid wine.
There are three more important classed
growths before the H aut- Medoc vineyards
give way to the northern suburbs of
Bordeaux· G1scours, whose half-timbered
farm buildings face a most 1mpress1ve sweep
of vines, and harbour a particularly flattering
style ofwi ne; Cantemerle, a perfect "Sleeping
Beauty" chateau, deep tn a wood of huge trees
and quiet pools, whose wine 1s more known
for elegance, and usually for val ue; and the
potential ly top-flight La Lagu ne, with orgamc,
vergi ng on b1odynam1c, vineyards ro und a
neat 18th -centu ry building under the same
ownership as Pau l Jaboulet Aine of the Rho ne.
Dauzac, the fou rth classed growth of th1s
southern area, sold in 201 8 by another
insurance company, has raised its sights Its
neighbour Siran has a fa irytale s1tuat1on tn the
woods Both S1ran and Ch!teau d 'Anglud et ,
owned and 1 n h ab1ted by the Sichel fam ily, can
make wine of classed growth quality.
The new Fr a nco - Chm••• owner ha• spent a
fo rtune on new, Asian-influenced cha1s at
Chateau Marquis d'Alesme, and on a useful and
unusually tour1S t-fr len dly wine bar, Le Ha meau

...
..
14200
0
..
KmD
2Km
1-
-
������--
-
..
..
.
���--.�� --'
0201
Mdo
o
O
1Milo
Canton boundary
Convnune (par�h) boundary
Gi
i
MA1IGAl
lX
Cru Class6
a. Mlrda9 Notable chllteau or producer
a.Muojol
ll
Mlcrocuvlie or part of one
- Premier Cru Cla• vineyard
Cru ci.sse vineyard
Ol
ll
er \lfney1
1
rc1
Wo
ocl$
Contourtntarvaf5metres
La Lagune Is the first chdteau
encountered on the main road
up the Medoc fr om Bordeaux •
with the appellation Haut­
Medoc. The vineyards, one block
ofsand and gravel, were
certified organic m 2016.
Marga ux and the Southern Medoc BORDEAUX • F,.ANCI:
H
/
SOUTHEll
l
N HAUT· MEDOC
Margaux la th• most southerly of the
fa mous Medoc communes, but the
Haut-Medoc appellation reachH aa rar
south a• the city of Bordeaux.
I
Borclea\,x J
Margo.•
Bordeaux
t
-\
N
)-
r
c
o
D
T
'
T

•
•
•
c
c
0
D
T
I
T
100
FRANCE • BORDEAUX
Graves and Entre-Deux-Mers
There Is much more to the Graves
region than Its most fa mous northerly
communes of Pessac and Ll§ognan,
conjoined In a single appellation (mapped
overleaf). "Graves" alone in the past usually
meant a medium commercial white. But the
southern end of th1s zone ofscattered vines
has been com ing to life, too - notably thanks
to a new wave of attractively priced reds
with deep, sappy fruit and ripe tannins.
In central and southern Graves a number
ofthe old properties, particularly m the once
fa mous parishes of Portets, La nd1ras, and
St- Pierre-de- Mons, have new owners and
new philosophies
The ab ility ofGraves soil to make red
and white wme equally well is seen at
Chateaux de Chantegr1ve m Podensac,
Rahoul and Crabitey m Portets, and
m properties dotted arou nd Arbanats
and Castres-G1ronde. Clos Flor1dene at
Pujols- sur-C1ron, and Chateau du Seuil, like
so many successful properties situated
close to the Garonne, excel at understated,
oak-aged dry wh ites from the Sauv1gnon
Blanc and Sem1llon grapes that seem so at
home in this quiet southern corner of the
G1ronde, even if fe wer than one bottle of
Graves in four now contains wh ite wme. They
may seem casual, but these whites often
grow more serious with a few years of age
The extent of this map northwards and
eastwards 1s testament to the efforts being
made even in some of Bordeaux's less
glamorous wme areas Most of the red wme
sold as lowly Bordeaux AOC 1s made m the
Entre- Deux- Mers, the wedge of particularly
pretty far mland between the Garonne and
Dordogne rivers that has attracted more than
its fa ir share ofChinese investors, keen to own
an attractive, we ll-priced Bordeaux chateau
whose wine can be shipped straight to China.
The name Entre·Deux·Mers 1tself ls reserved
on wme labels for the harmless dry white
produced there, m much smaller quantity.
An increasing number of prod ucers of
red wines that qual ify for no grander an
appellation than Bordeaux, or the slightly
stronger Bordeaux Superleur, are seriously
trying to make wines ofnote by te ndmg their
vi neyards much more carefully and red ucing
yields. However, 1t is difficult to be
sufficiently financially rewarded for such
efforts at this level in the Bordeaux pecking
order. Many such producers are marked on
this map, which includes the most
Interesting part of Entre- Deux- Mers.
A number of substantial ch!teaux, and the
odd exceptional co-op, have changed the
upect of the region, especially ofthe parishes
In the north of this map towards the Dordogne
and St-Em11ion, from one of mixed fa rm and
orchard to vinous monoculture. Some of
the most successful flag- bearers were the
Lurton fam ily's excellent ChAteau Bonnet
south of Grezillac, the De�pagne fam ily's
versatile ChAteau Tour de M1rambeau south
of Branne, the Coursel le fa mily's Chateau
Th1euley near Creon, and the negoc1ant­
owned Chateau Pey La To ur at Salleboeuf
iust north of th1s map. Many of these, such
as Chateau Bauduc on the outskirts of
Creon, make even more successful dry
whites (from Semillon and Sauv1gnon
grapes) than reds. Chateau de Sours of
St-Quentin-de- Baron (bought by the owner
of Ahbaba, China's largest retai ler, in 2016)
has even managed to sell its Bordeaux rose
en pri meur.
But there are signs of even more
exciting wine-c raft m Entre- Deux­
Mers, as well there might be 1n the
far north, where limestone soils
can be uncannily similar to parts
of the St- Em1hon appellation.
Northwest of th1s map, Chateau de
Reignac near St- Loubes has ac hieved
dizzy prices, thanks to the smgle-
mmdedness of owner Yves Vate lot Pierre
Lurton of Chateaux Cheval Blanc and
d'Yquem, no less, brings a certai n glamour
by assoc 1at1on to the region via his own
property, Chateau Mariosse, near Grezillac.
The Bordeaux C6tes
Smee 2008 the name Premieres C6tes de
Bordeaux has been used exclusively for the
semi-sweet wh ite prod uced m the narrow,
river- huggi ng zone on the right bank of the
Garonne, with its often toothsome reds sold
as Cadillac C6tes de Bordeaux. Castillon
C6tes de Bordeaux 1s another red -only
appellation, Just east ofSt-Em1hon, and
nudging It for q u ality. Further down the right
bank of the Dordogne are Blaye C6tes de
Bordeaux (reds) and Francs C6tes de
Bordeaux (whites as well as red s). Ste-Foy
C6tes de Bordeaux 1s fo r both colours and
al l sweetness levels. An umbrella appellation,
C6tes de Bordeaux, permits c ross -blendmg
of red wines among all five, perhaps best
viewed together on p.85.
Smee the Premieres C6tes de Bordeaux
encircle the sweet white appellations of
Cadillac, Loup1ac, and Ste -Croix-du- Mont,
1t is no surprise that good sweet wines are
prod uced here, too Those made m the south
of the zone are sold as Cadillac, while the
dry whites are sold as straightforward
Bordeaux. It 1s too much to claim that
the hquorous Ste -Croix-du-Mont Is the
money making propos1t1on it once was, but
Some ofBordeaux wine's
biggest landowners are In
Entre -Deux-Mers, where
there has been some
experimentation with
/"
"
_
C
HSCa�
disease-resistant vine
t/
Lig non·O
•
varieties.
/
de-Bordeaux
CH II\t
latresne Q
(
enoc
SodirCIC.0
Comblones·
d't·Meynoc
DlO O
Quinsac
•
St·Copro is· o
de-Bordeaux
CH 1.E DOYEN�E
three chateaux
- Loubens, du
Mont, and La Rame
- make great efforts, and
in neighbouring Loup1ac
Cha.teaux Dau phi ne-
Rond1llon, Loup1ac-Gaud1et,
and de Ricaud are ready to run
the risks inherent m making
truly sweet, rather than JUSt
semi-sweet, wme (see p 104).
Just across the Garonne, to the
north of Barsac In the Graves, hes
Cerons, a separate appellation long
forgotten (it includes lllats and Podensac ),
which has fo und new prosperity Cat ChAteau
d'Archambeau, for example) by making
mainstream white and red under the Graves
ap pellati on. Cerons h as largely abandoned
Its trad1t1onal style mldw� between Grav••
Superleures (the sweetish white of GravH)
and Barsac, that was softly rather than
st1ck1ly sweet, and popular locally as an
aper1t1f, but ChAteau de Cerons and Grand
Enclos du Chlteau de Cerons still prod uce
superior exam ples

°Comor>OC
Baron °
(II u�w;r�RD
•
WDESOURS
0s7-auenl1n
de·Baran
Cammc et&
St· Den is
0
•
Cl l Df NOlJGERIE
oCreon
•
o f Sauve
W Il<IL Dl
• Cl l TlllELLEY
(II DE fO'fl E�lLLl'
•
• CH '( UNCAL'D
,.
./
./;')I� 0Mmllax
t·Genes
-<
v
�
Lombavd
p
I
C
�l
G
RA'N.O�
�
MOUl:Y' >
�
·
D'
E
.. °Cap1on
CH PIAIS.\.
.\
Cf
CH�Lil
•
oCardan
Sa ul1gnac 0
/
aSt-Leon
1 154,00
0
Graves and Entre Deux Mers BORDEAUX • l""ANCI
101
•
Gr6z1llc:'c
l.11 M�RJO'<>E
CTI BO�·'J'f
•
9Da19nac
j
rgeroc
dsranne
0
Cabara
l_
s
geon·
•
�IROIATE
BEA�IJ'll 0670
}
de·
�l
�
: ��J
•
Nau1an-
Cl
l
IA FREYNrJJ.E
5t-Po s t1ac
I Dardenac
0
CH TOUR DE llRAMBEAL •
\ o Poshac
J3gazan RauzanO
i V1llesequa�
cJ'aleyras
Bellefond
a
Rom gne o
•(
J
0'71
Courp10�
0 Bellebat
Bo19neaux
Monlignac 0 Cll lAMOTHE-VlNdmr
•
•
l} BEAUREGARD-DUCOUR
-qladaux
Frontenac
0
Sallebruneou
a
D611
•
VJUA-.Al
l
Notable producer
-PIS
Sl
c-Lqnan
c:
::J
-
-
-
-
-
-
[R]
Gadlllac COies de Bordelux and
Preml�res COies de Bordeaux
Entre-Deux-Mers
Gr1ves
C6rons1Gr1ves
Cadillac COies de Bordeaux, Cadillac, and
Preml�res COies de Bordeaux
Bordeaux Haut-Benauge and
Entre- Deux-Mers Haut·Benauge
Barsac
Loup1ac
Ste-Croix-du -Mont
COies de Bordeaux-St Maca1re
Sauternes
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
Sauveterre­
de·Guyenne
O
St·Sulp1ce·
de- Pomm1ers
0
de·Foncaude
St-
!,
�
�
de·2ague
0
St-H1laire-
le�Esse1ntes
BORDEAUX'S HINTERLAND
The red wmes of
Cadillac C6tes de
Bordeaux were once
called Premieres
C6tes de Bordea ux,
and this name
may still be seen
on older bottles.
KmO
2
3
4
5
IKm
The vast Entre·Deux·Mers region m� not be
home to many wine superstars, but it Is
perhaps the prettiest and most rural of all the
many wine regions in the G1ronde departement .
Its name, "between two seas" (actually the
Garonne and Dordogne rivers), 1s now seen only
on a minority of white wine labels
1-�-- -...
..
.
��..
..
.
�--�..
..
.
�
�..
..
.
..
..
..
--
�--1
Mi
iot
0
2
5Mlto
o
c
o
0
T
E
T

W2
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
Pessac-Leognan
It was here, Inthe southern outskirts
of the city of Bordeaux, that the whole
concept of ftne red Bordeaux was
launched, in the 1660s, by the owner of
Chi.teau Haut-Bri on.
Its arid sand and gravel had al ready
supplied the region and its export markets
with its best red wme since at least 1300,
when the archbishop who became Pope
Clement V (of Avignon) planted what 1s now
Chateau Pape Clement.
Pessac-Leognan 1s the modern name -
conJ01ning the two most significant w1ne­
growmg communes - for the smartest,
northern subregion of the Graves (mapped
m its entirety on the previous two pages).
Pme trees were always the mam crop of th1s
sandy soil, while the vineyards were in
clearings, often isolated from one another m
heavily forested country crossed by shallow
river val leys. The map opposite shows how
the city and its oldest vineyards reach out
mto the forest, the suburbs mcreas mgly
encroaching on these historic estates.
The city that lies within the al l-important
(for travelling tasters) rocade, or ring road,
has swal l owed all the vineyards m its path
except the superlative group on the deep
gravel soils of Pessac: Haut-Brion, and its
neighbour and stablemate La M1ss1on
Haut- Brion, overperforming Les Carmes
Haut-Brion and Picque Ca1llou and, a l ittle
fu rther out of town, the archiepiscopal Pape
Clement, the showpiece ofwme entrepreneur
Bernard Magrez's empire
Chateaux Haut-Brion and La M1ss1on are
found with difficulty, deep m the suburbs
close to the university, on opposite sides of
the old Arcachon road which runs through
Pessac.. Haut- Brion 1s every mch a first
growt h, a suave eq u11ibr1um of force and
finesse with the singularity of great Graves
hints of earth and fe rn, tobacco and caramel.
La Mission tastes denser, riper, wilder - and
often just as sple ndid. In 1983, the American
owners of Haut- Brion bought its old rival,
including Chiteau La Toi,ir H aut- Brion, now
incorporated into La M1ss1on 1�self - not to
unite the vineyards but to continue the
matc h . The game is played out each year,
not JUSt between the two fa mous reds, but
between their incomparably rich white
sisters, too: Chateaux Haut- Brion Blanc and
Lav1lle Haut-Brion, tidily renamed La M1ss1on
Haut-Brion Blanc from 2009. There are few
more v1v1d exam ples of what terro1r, the
uniqueness of each piece of ground, means
on this Bordeaux soil.
Perhaps inspired bythis, a remarkable
number of determined owners have 1n recent
years dramatically increased both the quality
and quantity of the wme they prod uce m the
vineyards mapped here - mai nly red, with
much the same grape recipe and potential
for ageing as m the Medoc, though often with
a little more fr eshness, perhaps because of
proximity to the forests. The total vineyard
area of Pessac- Leogn an grew by almost half
m the 20 years to 2016, to nearly 4,450 acres
(1,800 ha) - although the area devoted to
Pessac - Leognan's d1stinct1ve, oak-aged,
ageworthy whites, mostly from Sauv1gnon
Blanc and Semillon grapes, remained
constant at about 680 acres (275 ha).
Between city and fo rest
The commune of Leognan, we ll mto the
forest, 1s the hub of th1s map Domame de
Cheval ier is its outstanding property,
despite its modest appearance The domaine
has never had a chateau. Although its chaf
and cuvier have been impeccably rebuilt, and
This 1776 engraving
shows barrels of
Bordeaux wine,
which had been
fa mous m the Inns of
Londonforat/easta
century, as Samuel
Pepys' diaries
attest, being rolled
fr om cellars on the
Qua/ des Chartrons
to be shipped north.
its vineyard considerably expanded m the
late 1980s and early 1990s, It retains the air
of a fa rm maclearing 1n the pines. Its reds and
especially whites are easy to underestimate
m youth. Like so many of the top Pessac·
Leognan producers, the Bernards of
Domame de Cheval ier have spread their
wings, ad ding Demaine de la Solitude and
Chateau Lespault-Martillac to their portfolio.
The other leading classed growth of leognan,
Chateau Haut-Bailly, 1s unusual in these
parts for making only red wme (deeply and
persuasively), and is now complemented by
the M erlot-dommated Chateau Le Pape
(also a boutique hotel) Malart1c- Lagrav1ere,
thoroughly modernized by the Belgian
Bonnie fam ily, is the stablemate of nearby
Chateau Gazin Roquencourt .
Smee the 1990s no Graves property has
had a more obvious fa celift than Chateau
Smith Haut Lafitte m the commune of
Mart1llac, which marks the southern limit
of Pessac - Leognan. Not only does 1t make
a particularly 1mpress1ve red and white, the
property boasts in Les Sources de Caudahe
a hotel, restau rants, and a pioneering
grape-based spa. The Cath1ards have also
added subs1d1ary properties, Chateau
Cantelys and Merlot-dominated Le Thil - and
have energetically embraced sustainability
throughout their growing empire
Improvements at Chateau Latour- Mart1llac
to the south have been on a more modest
scale, but the reds can represent excellent
val ue. The other well-known property in the
far south, Chateau de F1euzal, 1s Irish-owned
and noted for the robust reds and especially
dense whites made in a lavish new cellar.
The reliable white of the at mospheric
Benedictine Chateau Carbonnieux was long
celebrated more than its light but deepening
red . Chateau Ohv1er, surely Bordeaux's
oldest and most haunting chateau buildmg,
prod uces wme of both colours and 1s also the
subject of long-term renewal . Throughout
Leognan there are superbly run properties
making excellent wme - white as we ll as red
Chateaux Baret, Branon, Brown, de France,
Haut-Bergey, and Larrivet Haut- B rion all
readily spring to mind
The prophet and prime mover m the region
1s nonagenarian Andre Lurton. founder of
the local growers' organ ization; creator
of the Pessac - Leogn an appellation, w1thm
which he 1s the lead mg owner ofwhite wme
vineyards via his ChAteaux La Louviere, de
Rochemorm, the classified Couhms-Lurton
(virtually all the properties mentioned here
were class1fled in 1959), and de Cruzeau
(south of Latour-Mart1llac, mapped on p.100);
and the driving force beh ind much of the
recent re newal. Chateau Bouscaut, also
c lassifled, and now seriously worthy of
attent ion for both colours, 1s ow ned by his
n iece, Sophie Lurton

La Mission's
a/er
dsarep
vmeyar
Brion's
than Hau�
property
because t �
a
t technically
is no
hbut,
first growt
d
the prices an
as
ggest,
the map su
it is very, very
close to one.
'I'
Pessac - Leognan
UX • '"ANCI
BORDEA
Canton boundary
Commune (perish) boundary
Cru Classe
oducer
hAteauorpr
Other notable c
Cru c11sse vlney1rd
Pr1mler
Other vlneyerd
Woods
al 5 metres
Contour 1nterv
2�
1 47,50
0
�o��
��
�-J_
_l�
�-,1;M1
1e;-­
Mo1Ho
ds surround
These vlneyar
I research
I · ltura
the omcial v t1c
_
u
t t des Sc/encea
the lnst1 u
·
part
sta tion,
d Vin that 1s
delaVigneet u
't ofBordea ux,
ofth• Univers� )'
international
w so popular with
ts especially
no
wme studen
•
China.
those fr om
1oa
A
I
.!.c
c
o
D
T
E
T
F
'G

104
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
Sauternes and Barsac
All the ot her districts of Bordeaux make
wines that can be compared with others
of a similar style. Sauternes Is different.
It 1s lamentably underapprec 1ated but
incomparable, a speciality that finds few
real rivals Potentially one of the world's
longest- living wines, 1t depends on local
conditions, ext reme fast1d1ousness, and on
a very unusual fu ngus (see panel below) and
w1nemaking technique. In great vi ntages
the results can be sublime a very sweet,
rich-textured, flower-scented, gl ittering
go lden liquid Yields from the Semillon
grape, with varying proportions of
Sauvignon Blanc grapes, are often ti ny,
picking, maki ng, and blending can req uire
sacrifices too financially pai nfu l for some
prod ucers. Dishearteningly, although the
amb1t1on and prowess evident here has
grown gloriously this century, and they
have benefited from a run of great
vintages such as 2001, 2005, 2007, 2009,
2011, 2013, 2015, and 2016, demand for
what they so pai nstakingly make continues
to be d1sproport1onately low
An increasing proportion of dry white
wine 1s therefore now made in the
Sauternes region Y, or Ygrec, a particularly
heavy, alcoholic dry wi ne, was introd uced
at Chateau d'Yquem as long ago as 1959
Today, the Yq uem team's atte mpts to
prod uce a more refreshing modern version
are echoed 1n cellars all over the region,
resulting in the likes of G de Gu1raud and
S de Sudu1raut. Another common ploy 1s
to produce a second sweet wine made
up of the earl ier- maturing lots in o rder
to increase the quality and grandeur of
the grand vm .
The 1855 classlftcatlon
Our 19th-centu ry predecessors had a keener
apprec1at1on ofJust how exceptional these
great sweet wines are. Sauternes was the
only area outside the Medoc to be classed
in 1855 (see p 84). Chateau d'Yquem was
made a Premier Cru Superieur (First Great
Growth) - a ran k created for 1t alone in all
Bordeaux. Eleven other chateaux were
made first growths and 12 more were
classed seconds. Five communes, including
Sauternes itself, are entitled to use the
name Barsac , the biggest ofthem, maycall
its wine either Sauternes or Barsac.
Styles of Sauternes vary almost as much
as standards, even 1f most ofthe finest
properties cluster around Yq uem. Chateau
Lafaur1e-Peyraguey, to which was added a
luxurious hotel - restaurant in 2018, can taste
as floral as 1t sounds, AXA's Chateau
Suduiraut in Pre1gnac 1s typically lush and
sumptuous, with the top wine's quality
boosted by the introd uction of no fe wer than
two less amb1t1ous wines; Chateau Rieussec
(owned by the Rothsch1lds of Lafite) is often
deep - colou red and ric h . Other current top
Where t h e old waters of the little Hiver iron
meet the warmer one of t he wide Garonne ,
autumn m1 ts la ting till after dawn are
encouraged to roll up over thev111e ards 1n this
warm and fe rtile orner ofAquitaine Gentle rain
can h e lp, t oo. The special technique that only t h e
w II-financed chfttcau an affordtoemploy 1s to
pick over th vine ard as many as eight or nine
times, typicall b ginning 111 cptember and
so111et1 111es tonlrnuing until ovember This is to
lake fu ll advantage of a pc uliar form of fu ngus
(known as Bolrytis cinerea to the s cientis t , or
pourr1ture noble " noble rot" - to the poe t) . I l
form;, capnciou5Jy, on the emillon, Sauvignon
Blnnc, and omc Mus adelle grapesdunngthe
mild, nusty nights, th n multipl ies 111 the hc,1l of
the da , micro&cop1cally p rforaling the krns,
ohr1vel1111g the gropes and somet ime& coating the
grap <.> & 111 wlMl can look almoot like fur.
Till', bolr lb cnwurage> evnpo rntion, l<.>aving the
ug.tr, acid;, and theOavounngC'iem nl 111 the
Juice more conct•ntn1ted, though f.ir from C<t>y to
ferment AfterC<treful age111g 111 bmall oakbarrels,
and at 'ome propcrtics exacting s t• lcct1on und
performers include Clos Haut-Peyraguey
and Chateaux de Fargues (run by the
Lur-Saluces fam ily which for centuries
owned Yq uem), Raymond-Lafon, and
La To ur Blanche, which doubles as a
winemakmg school. Certified-organ ic
Gulraud has been taken in hand and now
has a smart restau rant to match its smart
sweet wine. A quite different but long-living
style of unoaked, late-released wine 1s made
at Chateau G1lette.
Making the cut
In Barsac, Chateaux Climens, Coutet, and
Do1sy-Daene, reunited with Do1sy- Dubroca
In 2014, lead the field with wines that are
theoretically, but not always in practice,
slightly fresher than Sauternes. Chmens
can easily be almost as rich as Yq uem, not
least because of the extreme efforts of
proprietor Berenice Lurton, who keeps the
results of every tr1e separate and carefully
monitored before the most complex
blending process imaginable The hand on
the tiller at nearby Chateau Coutet 1s more
preoccupied by reaching potential sweet
wine enthusiasts via social media. And in
between the two is the exceptional Chateau
Doisy- Daene, coaxed to top form by the
Dubourd1eu fa mily who, in the best vintages,
make tiny quantities of L' Extravagant, one
of the sweetest, and most expensive, wines
in the region
blendmg,the resulting\ ine ha an i ntens1t of
flavour, a smoo th , unctuous texhtre, nnd the
potential to be exceplionall long-lived.
Grapes hould ideallybe pi k d as the shri\cl,
sometimes berry by b erry, and ccrlamly on
multiple o ca ion; (called tries) . The wonder is
how these e tates can contmuc to fi nd pie-king
teams prepared tobe011 call over man wcl'k to
co m b through the ame vi neyard t11ne and t11nc
again, with ufficienl cxperien e and expert ise to
know \ hi h are the particu lar bu nchc , even
herrie , to decide lo pic k each lime .
o, \ bile production ost" arc extreme! high,
producl1011 vo lumes are ab�11 1 dly l ow, �111te
eva pornlion is a lually encouragcd Fro m it'>
250-odd acre' (1uughl) 100 ha) h;1lcau d'Yquem.
lhc grea l !>l of thc aull'rnes produu r; .i nd
owned b the d 'l'P pocketed but commt rciallr
astut LV MJI •mcc 1999 p1o<luceh an ,1wr.1g ol
only 8hl ha \ l!r-,t Lia" \1&dot v1111 yartl nwkt''
1ve or six l11ne '"' much P1 ice. h.1H' heu1 n 1nl(
g r.id u a lly, but !cw Wll1l dri nker� n·..ihl< Jll l ho\\
underpr1ced gn•at ,\\l'<'I v. lntc Bo1 dl'O ll l'
LOmpm ed \\ Jlh 1h n· d 1ountnpa1 t

fin the ory, th•
I
�ln•y a
rds
of th•
commune ofBar•ac
produce •lightly
fr esher wines than
tho•• fu rther south,
with this plateau
between the autoroute
and th• railwczy line
being distinguished by
Its limestone base.
The Clos des Lunes vineyard
was acquired by the team at
Domaine de Chevalier of
Pessac-Leognan with the
intention ofmaking great
dry whites, Lune d'Or and
Lune d'Argent.
11
SauternH and Ba.rue BORDEAUX • fl'ftANCI
10I
. Jordeaux
t
-·---
Canton boundary
·-
Commune (parish) boundary
CHWI01l
ll!
Cru Classl!
Cbde..
..
..
.,.
Other notable chateau or producer
- Premier Cru Su�neur vineyard
c=J Other vineyard
Woods
-'li.
-
Contour interval 5 metres
The map shows just how
extensive the most fa mous
estate ofall, Chdteau d'Yquem,
is, with its dark purple
radiating fr om what is quite a
hill. Strangely, for all its
dominant hil
l
top position, it
has a "p erched", therefore
unusually high, water table
that necessitates drainage but
keeps its vines growing well
even in drought. Yq uem can
produce 8,000 cases ofa
dozen bottles in a good year
- but when conditions are
unfavourable (as in 2012 fo r
example) not a drop 1s made.
1A1,j()O
�o
2�
1- ������
..
..
..
..
���-.�� ..
..
.
Milo
o
O
1Milo
c
0
0
E
E
T
f
'G

A
i
106
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
The Right Bank
This map provides an overview of what
has recently been Bordeaux's most
dynamic region, named "right bank" by
Anglo-Saxons in contrast to the Medoc
and Graves on the "left bank" of the
Gironde. The French call it the L1bourna1s
after its ancient capital, L1bourne,
Bordeaux's second centre of wme
c ommerce. Historically, L1bourne supplied
northern Europe with simple and satisfying
wines from its neighbouring vineyards,
Fronsac, St-Emilion, and Pomerol Belgium
was L1bourne's chief market
Today, two of these names are as fa mous
as any and more expensive than most
Pomerol and St-Emilton are described m
detail on succeeding pages, but what we can
see here is how dynamic are the wine areas
that surround them.
The most d1stmct1ve, 1f strangely
underappreciated, are the twm appellations
of Fronsac and Canon- Fronsac, west of
Libourne There was a time when this ge ntle
wooded district of sudden hills was widely
ad mired as a h1stor1c region m its own right,
and it is certai nly true that its best wines are
d1stmgu1shed by being not Just splendidly
fruity m typical right bank manner, but also
more characterfully rigorous, more tanrnc
when young. They may be slightly rustic in
style compared with the high gloss of, say,
the finest Pomerol, but some of Bordeaux's
best val ue wines are grown here. The
limesto ne slopes along the Dordogne river
are known as Canon Fronsac, although even
locals can someti mes be at a loss to describe
what differentiates the two appellations.
Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac have such
obvious potential that 1s not surprising that
successive waves of investors come, except
that, like L1bourne negoc1ant J P Moue1x and
a more recent wave of well- heeled outsiders,
they also go. Perhaps the Chinese, who
currently own about 15% of the total
v1gnoble, through properties such as
ChAteaux de la Riviere and R1chel1eu, will
prove more committed
The outlying vineyards of Pomerol are
clustered around the villages of Neac and
Lalande-de-Pomerol and qual ify for the
appellation named after the latter They are
generally less v1v1d than wines from the
plateau of Pomerol 1tself, but the key to
quality, as 1n much of the area mapped on
these two pages, 1s often Investment by the
owner of a grander property Thus, for
example, La Fleur de Bouard in Lalande-de
Pomerol benefits from the equipment and
expert11e ofthe fa mily that owns Chlteau
Angelus m St-Em1tion, just as Chlteau Les
Cruzelles and Its stablemate La Chenade,
I•
do from their assoc1at1on with Chateau
L'Eglise-Clinet m Pomerol. Chateau S1aurac
belongs to the same stable as Pau 11lac
first-growth Chateau Latour, no less, while
Chateau Haut-Chaigneau , with its special
bottling La Sergue, 1s run by celebrated
consultant oenolog1st Pascal C hatonnet .
A s1m1lar, eve n more marked, phenomenon
1s evident m the easternmost appellations
of the right bank, Castillon C6tes de
Bordeaux and (off the map to the northeast)
Francs C6tes de Bordeaux. Both Chateau
Les Charmes Godard and ChAteau
Puygueraud m Francs are part of the many
holdings of the extended Belgian Th1enpont
fam ily (others include Vieux ChAteau Certan
and Le Pm).
But m Castillon, of which only the western
sector 1s mapped here, there has been even
more investme nt . Geologically, Castillon 1s an
effective extension of St- Em1 h on. The best
sites are well above the alluvial soils that
fl ank the ri ver. On hillier ground are various
combinations of limestone and clay that can
be remarkably like parts of St- Em1hon The
generally cooler climate of th1s more inland
region is not necessarily the disadvantage it
once was. It 1s m this sort of country that the
Th1enponts have acq uired the property
renamed L' Hetre. Evidence of much earlier
investment from the west include ChAteau
d'A1gu1lhe, which shares an owner with
ChAteau Canon- l a-Gaffeltere m St- Eml lton,
and ChAteau Joanm Becot that shares an
owner with Chlteau Beau Sejour Becot,
also 1n St-Emilion, while Domalne de l'A has
long been the home base of fa mous
international consultant winemaker
__
__
__
__
_.
Moustron °
Ch Qulnauh
•
I Enclos Gii MARTINLI
•
o Condat Cfl Glt"YRO E
SI Em1/1on
�
les Reau
Stephane Derenoncourt . More
recently, Gerard Perse of
ChAteau Pav1e established Clos
Lunelles, Lo uis M1tjav1le, son of
Franc;ois of Tertre Roteboeuf,
has L'A urage; Grand Corbm­
Despagne has established Chlteau
Ampelta; and Denis Durantou of
L' Egl tse-Clmet has Chiteau
Montlandr1e. Old-vine specialist Clos Lo uie,
Chlteau Cap de Faugeres, Thierry Valette's
Clos Puy Arnaud, and Chlteau Veyry are
JUSt some of the ot her properties worthy
of atte ntion here.
St-E milion's so-called "satellites" are four
villages north ofthe town, MontA1n•,
Luasac, Pulaaeguln , and St·Georpa, which
are all allowed to append St ·Em11ion's name
to their own. Their wines too often taste like
a slightly rustic cross between St- Em11ion
and the red wines of Bergerac, which hes to
thei r 1mmed1ate east (see p.113), but there

ftie Rtiht Bank BORDEAUX • , .. ANCI
107
19000
0
tco
o
o
._
___
_._
__,___..____
_,
1
Km
Co:;
;,
s
-0
•Mi
lo
Font
0 Bernard
lll ROC llLR
COIU��
• QI C.ltO�
Boudron
0
CIJ \(()UlL\;Dl(,tj0'
•
0
Bertin
Mlrande
•
fU 01 I H.Rl\l�RI
Mol idure
(I
I
ill I \IH
�
•
•
(ll M\\M
ll! W
!�\TOlH
f >i,(•l R
0
Pichon
0
Blonchon
�
�
-
Ill 1101\.\
\
(
Duran
.(Jj ll\\.\11 1{
•
tSt Met1on1
J.
..G,
,
,...,
Pourteou
0
ii
Cll O�'l
l
\�O.
I Pl•.\(,\or
•
ll
l
ill\rT
ll[H�\1
ala Plogne
•!JI fO��ABM
+
<JIIl
l
.SIU.I
I
l
N
a.•r
-
-
-
-
Cl! U[t llR
r-
-'
rn CA"iTL�lUl'J-. •a
)
_
Te rrasson
0
•a1lmn
•
Jeon- Vo 1s1n
Vac.hona
CH RIGMll
lau
0
Peyraud
D-
GilDl CAL7.li
•
Ch �omhc•u e
J
• St-Christophe-des-Bardes
CROIX
• MNCTUli
Ch Bartle Haul •
OEOOJ
•
RJE
0
UI CA.�11j'
aos 01,B EClL
•
•
Gov 1llord
0670
Ch Laroque
Ch de
terr;u1d
•
•GhD<sdcm
•
Cll JACQL1'
�""
""
"
BLAl\C
--
-
..
..
• CH GAJLLARD
Ch hl Yleur M orange •
Q
St· Pey·
d'Arm
P
Fayont Tu1llac o
LIUTRt
•
•
UI DC PITR�\
0
tael ves ­
de·Castillan
Notable chtl9U
St·£mlllon Grand Cru Clas�
Fronsac
Ganon·Fronsac
Lalande-de Pomerol
Pomerol
St £m1llon
St·Geor11es St £m1hon
Monta11ne-St-£m1hon
Lussac·St £m1l1on
Putsseguon-St £mi11on
Castillon COies de Bordeaux
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
Only the western
part of the Castillon
Cotes de Bordeaux
appellation is
mapped here (s ee
map on p.85).
Cll PlfllOl'fAS JI
0Peyroutas
0
Cofol
The Battle of Castillon m 1453 marked the end
of the Hundred Ye ars' War and the end of
English rule over Aquitaine.
/ Sauvelerre·
de Guyenne
are areas ofclay- limestone soil that offer
good vit1cultural potential - fe rtile ground
for investment and improvement?
But most interesting of all la how many
well-known chlteaux are plotted on the pale
purple zone of St-Emillon but way outside its
classic heartland, mapped on pp.110-1 1 .
Nowhere in Bordeaux has so much effort
been expe nded recently tn pushing the limtts,
geographical and stylistic, ofwhat 1s
regarded as great red Bordeaux. For more
details, see pp.110· 12.
•I•
•I•
!.
.

roe
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
Pomerol
Pomerol. The name conjures up red wine
at its most velvety - although sometimes
most expensive. Yet the physical reality of
the place 1s that there 1s almost no place No
village centre, anyway Just an isolated and
unexpectedly grand church on a plateau
crisscrossed, apparently at random, by
almost 1dent1cal small roads and dotted with
modest houses, each rejoicing in the name
chateau Pomerol 1s such a curious corner of
the world that 1t is hard to get your bearings
Geologically it 1s another big gravel ban k,
slightly r1s1ng and fal ling but remarkably flat
overal l Towards Libourne the soil tends to
be sandy, while to the east and north, where
it meets St-E m11ion, 1t is often enriched with
clay. What grows here 1s the gentlest,
richest, and most instantly appealing form of
red Bordeaux. Even the best Pomerol has
produced much of its perfume and ac hieved
its dazzling finesse within a dozen years or
so, and many are al ready att ractive at five
years old With age, the wines can take on a
meaty, even gamey, note.
In Pomerol, even more than in neighbouring
St-Emilion, fleshy, flattering, early- maturing
Merlot 1s king, with Cabernet Franc playing
a complementary but subordinate role,
typically constituting only a fifth of the blend
The plateau northeast of Libourne has
traditionally been considered too far from
the warming infl uence of the Atlantic for
late ripernng Cabernet Sauv1gnon.
Rather than being overwhelmed by the
complications of Pomerol, it is worth knowing
that the average standard here 1s consistently
high Decidedly poor-quality Pomerol 1s
extremely rare, but then so are bargains.
Po merol 1s a democracy with, unusually
for such fam ous Bordeaux wines, no
classification, and indeed it would be very
hard to devise one. Some of the most
glamorous names were unfam iliar outside
the region until quite recently. Although the
Romans made wine here, 1t was as recently
as the mid-20th century that Pomerol began
to be regarded with anything like respect.
This was substantially thanks to a
resourceful merchant from the harsh Inland
Correze departement, Jean- Pierre Moue1x,
who settled in L1bourne in the 1930s and
stead ily built up a portfolio of properties,
making wines of increasingly urngnorable
quahty that were first appreciated by Belgian
wine lovers Another reason classification
would be d11'1icult 1s that the chlteaux are
small fam ily affai rs and subject to change
as 1nd1vldual1 come and go or, in the case of
the powerful Moue1xea, for instance, as they
add and aubtract parcels from their many
hold1n11 The complexity ofthe soil, as It
switches fro m gravel to grave lly clay to clay
with gravel, or fro m sandy gravel to gravelly
sand, 1s rarely exactly reflected in the fl uid
vineyard bou ndaries.
Most producers in Pomerol make a single
wine, plus perhaps a second wine from
younger vines or less prop1t1ous soils Fo r
years all were agreed that the most singular
vineyard - virtually all Merlot planted on 28.4
acres (11.5ha) on a particular concentration
ofdisti nctive blueish clay over well-drained
gravel and producing the most glamorous,
and long-lived, wine - was Petrus, owned by
Jean-Franc;ois, elder son of Jean-Pierre
Moue1x and the most powerful merchant in
the city ofBordeaux. Dynastic succession 1s
important at Petrus. Ohv1er Berrouet, son of
the previous winemaker Jean - Claude
Berrouet, 1s in charge of the cellar.
Far fro m static
Then, as recently as the 1980s, along came
Le Pm when Jacq ues Th1enpont, a member
of the Belgian fa mily that also owns nearby
Vieux ChAteau Certan ("VCC") and an
increasing number of other right bank
properties, planted vines on what had been
a potager. Le Pin is microscopic even by
Pomerol standards (less than 5 ac res/3 ha).
Wine made in such tiny quant1t1es can be
hand-reared, resulting in an " ultra- wine",
with an excess of everything, including charm
(and of course scarcity), and this has been
reflected in prices sometimes higher than
those of Petrus, 1tself far more expensive
even than any left bank first growth - but
also, ofcourse, much smaller Impressive new
buildings and cellars at both Le Pin and
Pet rus demonstrate how easy 1t has been to
sell these supe r-deluxe wines.
The map opposite d1stmgu1shes in capitals
the growths whose wines currently fe tch the
highest prices . Clos l'Eglise and ChAteaux
Cllnet, L' Egl1se ·Clinet (how confusing these
names are!), La Fleur de Gay, and La Violette
Armed with a magmfymg glass, you mightjust
be able to spot where Pomerol 's oversized
church is on the map opposite - south of the
cllfster ofproperties with Eg/ise m their name.
are relatively recent Jewels in the Pomerol
crown Chateaux La Conse11lante, L'Evang1le
(owned by the Rothsch1lds of Lafite). Lafleur,
Latour a Pomerol, Trotanoy, and the
unusually Cabernet-dependent VCC all have
much longer trac k records of excellence.
Chateau La Fleur-Petrus had a good
reputation, too, when 1t relied on 1 9.8 acres
(S ha) ofvines ro und the dormitory for Moue1x
vineyard workers near Petrus. It has recently
been re-engineered by Jean-Franc;ois'
bPOther Christian Moue1x and Chr1st1an's son
Edouard, however, so that it now consists of
three separate parcels totaling 46 2 acres
(18.7ha). Christian Moue1x also renamed and
rebuilt the property across the road from
Petrus once called Chateau Certan Giraud,
and now known as Hosan na. Perhaps the fact
that Chr1st1an's fat her put Pomerol on the
map gives him the right to redraw it.
The tight grouping ofthese chAteaux on
the clays of eastern Pomerol ls an md1cat 1on
oftheir character as well as their quality.
These pre>perties ge neral ly make the
densest, fleshiest, and most opulent wines.
Wines grown on the lighter, sandier soils
around the town of Llbourne, with Its
merchants along the right bank of the lazy
Dordogne, tend to be noticeably less
concentrated and dramatic.
One rec ent development has been the
emerge nce of some great-val ue junior
Pomerol from the vi neyards to the
immediate north of the Pomerol appellation
in Lalande-de Po merol (see p.106). The
owner of C hateau L'Eglise- Chnet makes both
La Chenade and Les Cruzelles fr om a
vineyard within sight of his Po merol base
The best wmtH mature even fas ter than
Pomerol but are much less expensive

CBWl.l
ll
lt
ll!Boucpuf
-
c=J
-so-
Cent.on boundaiy
,/'Sf °"
"
"
c h do< Anner..in
'I. d.
Pj
l.
•
J.i Ann'eroo�x • r
Commune (perish) boundary
Leldl!li cheteau
Oltl
lr
notable chateau
St·tml1lon Premier Grand Cru
ClalM(A)vineyard
Olhlr vineyard
WO
Od$
Conlourrnlerval5metres
,,,
,,
1 25,00
0
/0-
l
Po merol BORDEAUX • l'"ANCI
1ot
LALANDE·DE•l80Ml..OL
AND ..OMIROL
Our map 1howa how Pomerol
mer1e• Into the vavelly
wHtern boundary of St·
Emillon, where Chlteaux
Cheval Blanc and FJ1eac are
to be fo und. The 1reatHt
concentration of leadln1
Pomerol propertlH is easy to
see, although their modest size
surprises many visitors.
The most fa mous
Pomerol ofall, Petrus,
is easy to miss, and
extremely difficult to visit
0
T
E
T

c
o
110
FRANCE · BORDEAUX
St-Emilion
The ancient and beautiful town of
St-Emlllon Is the epicentre of a modernizing
trend In Bordeaux wlnemaklng, propped
in the corner of an escarpment above
the Dordogne. Behind the tow n, on the sand
and gravel plateau, vines flow stead ily west
into Pomerol, high above a loop of the River
Dordogne. To the south of 1t, where the
contour lines are closest, they swoop down
steep limestone slopes (the Cotes) onto the
plain The ap pellation extends al l the way
down to the banks of the river (see pp.106-
107), on increasingly sandy, different, and less
promising terrai n
The town 1s the tiny but much v1s1ted ru ral
gem of the Bordeaux region - a UNESCO
World Heritage Site since 1999 - inland and
upland in sp1r1t, Roman in origin, hollow with
cellars, heady with wine, and apparently
studded with as many wine shops as
dwellings. Even the church at St- Em11ion 1s a
cellar· cut, hke them all, out of solid rock The
Michelin-starred Hosteller1e de Plaisance in
the town square 1s actually on the church
roof, and you sit beside the belfry to eat yo ur
fo1e gras and sweetbreads.
St-Em1hon makes rich red wine Before
many people can really come to terms with
the dryness and slight asperity of Medoc
wines, they love the sohd tastiness of
St-Emihon The best, made in ripe and sunny
seasons, grow almost sweet as they mature.
St-Em1hon 1s typically more alcoholic than
wine from the Medoc, often more than 14%
nowadays, but the very best can live as long
The grapes ofSt-Emllion are the plump
Merlot ftlling a fram ework ofCabernet Franc
Cabernet Sauv1gnon can have problems
ripening in this ch mate, less tempered by the
ocean, especially 1n its damper, cooler soils,
although warmer summers have encouraged
RIGHT BANK CONSULTA NTS
Sine the 1990s S t - Em11io n has attracted a
fl u rry of outside 111ve tors who ha e bought
v1 11cyards, invested heavily ln new cllars and
w111cmak111g equip ment, and hired one of the
rnn'>ultanl oe nologi,t s who �pcdal1ze 111 thb
art>a, namcq �uch 11<, M1d1el Holland, Stephane
llerenoncourt, Stephane Tou t o undJ I , J Jubert
de Boua rd, and Alain H cynuud. In this respec t,
andeven 111 theRtyle of some ofits mo1e
del 1herutc·ly modenmt wmc s, St Emil1un
bcc ned almost to be 1rn1t1tat1ng Caltf orn 1 u \
N".1pJ \ ,1Jlc·y I fowcvcr, by the scrnnd dcc t1dc of
t h 1' cPntury there '<Vere .,ig11' of a resurgemc
ufmun• c lu,s,1 ul w111emak111g In St !<, nu lion
exceptions tothis rule Some producers,
including ftrst-growth ChAteau Cheval Blanc,
are even planting white grapes on sites less
suitable for growing red wine.
St-Emlllon•s classlficatlon
There 1s nothing hke an 1855 Classification
here. Here It 1s rigorously topical. Every 10
years or so (most recently in 2012) 1t revises
its candidates for Premiers Grands Crus
Classes and Grands Crus Clas ses. Other
St- Em1hons may be descri bed as Grand Cru
without the Classe (careful label inspection
1s needed) There are currently 18 of the
ftrst, with Cheval Blanc and Ausone now
ioined by Angelus and Pav1e in a separate
super-category of fo ur (Premier Grand Cru
Classe A), and 64 ofthe second. The plain
Grands Crus run into hundreds. The most
recent promotions to Premier Grand Cru
Classe were Chateaux Larc1s Ducasse, La
Mondotte, and Valandraud, and even quite
fam ous properties may be demoted.
But many properties operate outside the
class1ftcat1on system, some ofthem very
s uccessfu lly. In recent years dozens, 1f not
hundreds, ofthe 800-odd chateaux in the
appellation have been modernized, and their
wines made ge neral ly smoother, less rustic,
and more concentrated - some to an almost
exaggerated extent (see panel bel ow).
The general trend towards consolidation,
evident recently throughout Bordeaux,
whereby the more successful properties
become bigger (and even more profttable, 1f
not necessarily better), has been even more
marked here on the right bank, where
estates have trad1t1onally been so much
smaller, than on the left bank. Thus, for
example, what were Chateaux Belair and
Magdelaine, and potentially Clos La
Madeleine, are now Chateau Bela1r-Monange
on the Cotes next to the fa mous first-growth
Chateau Ausone. Some particularly wel l­
heeled relative newcomers have their roots
on the left ban k. The Dillon fam ily that owns
Pessac ftrst-growth Chlteau Haut- Brion has
transformed ChAteaux Tertre Daugay and
l'Arrosee into a handsome 69 acres (28 ha)
called ChAteau Quintus on a prime south­
fac ing section ofthe Cotes, while the owners
of Chateau Rauzan-Segla 1n Margaux (and
Chanell. have expanded their Chateau Canon
by acq uiring both ChAteaux Matras and
Berhquet Chinese and Russian infl uence in
St- Em1hon are also obvious .
Land prices have soared and owners today are
more likely to be insurance companies than the
garaglstes who in the 1990s could buy a few
vines for a song and transform their produce
into a highly priced 100-pointer in their garage.
Scaling up, not down, 1s the order of the day.
Jean-Luc Thunevin showed how to progress
from ga rag1s te to member ofthe Bordeaux
establishment with his Chiteau Valandraud.
C/J fa&!
There are three d1st1nct
use the name (they are described and
mapped on pp.106-107). See p.112 for more
detail on the very varied soil types of the
whole St-Em1hon appellation.
One group of the finest chateaux hes on the
western edge of St-Em1hon, on the border of
Pomerol The most fa mous 1s Cheval Blanc,
its new eye-catching, environmentally friendly
wi nery (see pp.2-3) almost as 1mpress1ve
as its beautifully balanced wine, whose
perfume stems from its high proportion
of Cabernet Franc vines. Of Cheval Blanc's
neighbours, 1t 1s the extensive Chateau
F1geac that comes nearest to Its level, from
even more grave lly soil and with, uniquely
1n the district, a signiftcant proportion of
Cabernet Sauv1gnon Its Increasingly organic
and unusually undivided vineyard grows
almost equal proportions of Merlot and eac h
of the two Cabernets, which are so wel l suited
to the property's well-drained gravels.
Another, larger, group, the Cote& St-Emlhon,
occupies the escarpment around and to the
east of the town towards St· Laurent- des ­
Combes. An ideal south-fac ing slope flanks
the southern tip of the town from Chi.teau
Quintus via the Pav1es to Te rtre Roteboeuf
•1•
=

canton boundary
Commune (parish) boundary
atAl.O
ONlt
PAtmler Grand Cru Classe (2012)
CblMoa Grand cruClasse
Cb/8/l
lMw
Other notable chateau
-
P1'81
1\
ler Grand Cru Classe (Al vineyard
KmO
c:=i
Olher Vineyard
Molo
o
O
Woods
-p- ContourIAterval5metres
l 26,.CO
O
St Em1l1on BORDEAUX • l"IUNCI
111
THI HEART 0, ST· IMILION
All 18 ofthe Premier Grand Cru Cius•
chAteaux are located on this map, u are
the majority of the Grands Cru1 Cius••·
Th• re mainder are mapped on pp.106-107,
where th• fu ll extent of the St·Emlhon
appellation Is revealed
J
\N)
f
IKm
1/2Mlto
In the early 1980s, Te rtre Roteboeufwas one ofthe first
St-Emil/on properties to b• taken under new, fa natical
management and pushed to the limits ofquality and
desirability - in an almost burgundlan, artisan fa shion in
this particular case with out seeking omc1al rank in the
often controversial classification.
•I
c
o
D
'

•
•
•
c
c
o
'
f
112
FRANCE · BORDEAUX St· Emrllon
The Cotes provide shelte r from the north
and west, relative immunity to frost, and an
incline towards the sun. It rs not surprising
that grapes ripen so efficiently here. The
plateau ends so abruptly that rt rs easy to
see iust how thin a layer ofsoil covers the
soft but sohd limestone in which the cellars
are hewn The revitalized Chateau Ausone,
thejewel ofthe cotes, has one of the finest
situations rn all Bordeaux overlooking the
Dordogne Valley. You can wal k into its cellar
and see the roots of vines growing above you.
to the west These tend to have rather less
intensity, more flnesse and polish than those
Ofthe COtes - though there IS no Shortage Of
proprietors who have done their best to fight
geography with wrnemak1ng rn this respect.
The third group of wi nes, such as Chliteaux
Grand Mayne and Franc Mayne, is prod uced
on the swathe of h mestone, clay, and sand
above and between the cotes and the gravels
In a remarkably short time St-Emrhon has
been transformed from a sleepy backwater
into a hotbed of amb1t1on.
THE TERROIRS OF ST·EMILION
The s01l map ofthe l·Emil10n appellation below, based onextensive
re earch undertaken b Corneli an Leeuwen at the U mversrty of
Bordeaux for t he ndicat Viticole de St-Emihon, how just how dramati
are it variation interroir. Much oftheland outh oft·he main road to
Bergerac l ooks di t rnctly unpromising, with its recent allu ial depo 1t
from th e Dordogne, which are gravelly clo er to the river's fl ood plain,
sandyfu rther away. Moving uph ill towards St-Emilion it elfwe en ounter
andy soils, which we would expe c t to p roduc e relatively hght wrne (there
are exceptions), but this soon g i ve way to the limestone b a s e that i so
obvious to v1 rtors lo the town. oft molassesdu Fron adais (the same oil
type a 1s foundinFron ac) form thelowerslopes and themuch harder
calcatreaAsteries plateau , with clay-rich topsoil . lti hardly urprising that
Plaleaux
such good wine an be made from grapes grown on the o-called Cote .
These slopes around the t ow n are the res ult of the work of the Dordogne,
I le, and then Barbanne rivers on Te rtiary deposits in the Quaternary
penod . Note, too, the pots that are richer in loam than clay, pa rticularly
the one north of St- Hippolyte.
But northwest of the town is an extensive swathe ofqu ite different hallow
sandy soils that is relieved mo t dra mat icall by the mound of gravel on the
Po m e ro l border where chateau.x Figea and Cheval Blan are to be found.
This map explain ery clearly why Figcac and Cheval Blanc can ta ste so
similar, and whyCheval Blanc is o very different in stylefrom theother
three Premiers Grands Cru Classes (A)
C lay- nch calcareous so rl on hard
limestone bed roc k (calca1re a Astenes)
Deca lc1f1ed loamy clay on ha rd
limestone bedrock (calca1re a Astenes)
Lower slopes
Well-d rarned sandy soils
Clay and loam on reworked elastic
sedimentary bedrock (molasse)
Higher slopes
Va lleys
Jes Moun ns 0
L=:
::J
C lay-nc h calcareous soil on soft limestone
bedrock (molasses du Fronsada1s)
- Gravel on the hrgh Frgeac-Pomerol
alluvial terrace
•I•
Parent0
-
'-..
Gentle slopes (g/ac1s) of old fluv1al
and aeolian sands
Recent sa ndy alluvium
of the Dordogne nver
Recent gravelly alluvrum
of the Dordogne nver
Flood plain of the Dordogne river
Appellation boundary
"'"'"" Umrts of the plateaux
• rn Al IO\L Premier Grand Cru
Class!' (AJ rh�teau
17000
0
ADAPTED 8Y MARIE-FRANOOISE TER,.AS FROM AN ORIGINAL
SOIL MAP CREATED BY CO RNl!:LIS V,.
.
N Ll:EUW!:N

Wines of the Southwest
South and eut of the 1reat vineyard of
lordeaux are historic scattered areas,
each by a river - the vine's old link to
distant markets.
Te rrolr Too varied to general ize.
Cllmate Atlantic-dom inated but very
continental inland.
Grape varieties R: Malbec, Tan nat,
Cabernets, Merlot, Fer Servadou;
W: Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle, Semillon,
Gros and Petit Manseng, Petit Courbu
This was the "High Country" that the jealous
merchants of Bordeaux excluded from the
port until they had sold their own wine
(sometimes, to compound the Injury, beefed
up with stu rd ier stuff made upstream). The
Bordeaux grape var1et1es may dominate
closest to the Gironda departement, but
elsewhere 1s France's most varied collection
of indigenous wine grapes, some only
recently red i scovered. The Bordeaux right
bank's beautiful hinterland, the bast1de
country ofthe Dordogne, leading back into
the maze of green val leys cut into the stony
upland of Per1gueux, has long been a
fa vourite with tourists.
The small Cotes de Duras appellation 1s
effectively a bridge between Entre - Deux­
Mers (see map on p.85) and Bergerac. It
makes red and white, but its strong point 1s
zesty, dry Sauv1gnon Blanc
The wines of Bergerac were trad1t1onally
seen as country bumpkins beside the
soph1st1cates of Bordeaux, but there are also
far more serious wines of al l three hues and,
m whites, all sweetness level s. Luc de Conti
of Ch!teau To ur des Gendres, a b1odynamic
convert, deserves considerable, although
not exclusive, credit The grapes are the
same as Bordeaux's . The climate 1s a little
more extreme than that of the Atlant1c­
moderated G1ronde, and there 1s limestone
on higher ground. Withinthe greater Bergerac
region are many individual appellations - so
many that some are virtually ignored
P&:harmant, d1stmgu1shed by the iron m the
soil, is celebrated locally for its fu ll-bodied,
somet1mes-oaked reds. Red Bergerac 1s often
seen as a Bordeaux substitute.
Just over the departmental boundary from
Castillon (see pp.106-107) is the complex
Montravel zone, producing whites dry and
sweet and reds usually a cut above Bergerac.
But the most dlstinct1v$, glamorous wines of
the Dordogne departement are sumptuously
sweet, white, and made m d 1splriti ngly small
quantities 1n two zones southwest of the
112
town of Bergerac Indeed, the total
production of Sauasl1nac, home to some
extraordinarily determined producers, is
only a few thousand cases.
The total output of Bergerac's most fa mous
wi ne, Monbazlllac, 1s 30 times greater and
average quality has improved considerably
since 1993, when machine-picking was
abandoned m fa vour of several selective
harvests by hand. Much lighter doses of
sulphur dioxide have become the norm and
chaptahzat1on is banned . Like the vineyards of
Sauternes, Monbaz1 llac lies j ust east of where
the tributary Gardonette jOms a major river
(here the Dordogne), encouragi ng noble rot,
but the terrai n here 1s much hillier Muscadelle
grapes play a minor role m Sauternes but a
major one here. The best young Monbaz1 llacs,
such as those of Ch!teau T1rec ul La Grav1ere,
BERGERAC
Montravel "llfJl�lfi!i
i
ll
l
Flau1agues
��
��
�
Pessoc- sur-Dor og
Ste· Radegonde0
Gen
GIRONDE
Il
ly
to produc111
1 QIMOIJUNCARl!S
S8
Notable producer
are more exuberant , more sprightly than
the best yo ung Sauternes, although mature
Monbaz1llac takes on a distinctive amber
nutti ness. The 50· member cooperative Is
the main producer
The once-black wine
Cahors was more fa mous for the hue and
longevity ofits wines m the Middle Ages than it
1s today. Although some ofits wines nowadays
are softened by Merlot, 1t depends for its soul
and flavour on a grape known here as C6t, m
Argentina and Bordeaux as Malbec. Thanks to
this grape, and to summers that are generally
warmer than Bordeaux's, Cahors tends to be
fu ller and more vigorous, 1f a little more rustic,
than typical red Bordeaux Vines are planted
on the three al luvial terraces above the River
Lot, with the highest most highly regarded
KmO
Milo
o
O
1 440,00
0
10
15Km
lOMtlo
o
���M&rs
QIIAMAlJRIGNE
4CHllJCIW
W
QllJISMLWDOUX
QIGJIN()IJ
Notable wine commune
' a!DllSBYSMRDS
6(JIll8IJNGA
lU>
::=D! CAIWIVBL
7al'l1RECIJ
L
IA GRAvWm
alIAG1WIDBMAISON
(]!Tl
ll!IJU!T
CAVB DB MONl
lAZUJ.AC
8 DOMDU.INCIEN
NB
aJRl
l
11QITO
OR
DB
B
GBNDRBS
-
D6partement boundary
Bergerac
Montravel
Haut·Montravel
COies de Montravel
Roset
te
- P6charmant
Sausst11nac
- Monbazlllac
- COies de Ouras
•<'.!
.t;,
,.
deoux
Si•
P9ngueuJt •
I
c
c
o
D
'
F
•

114
c
0
Both architecture and topography are
hugely distinctive in the sub ·Pyre nean zone
oflrou/eguy, as Brana's wine and sp1r1t
headquarters (above much underground
act1 v1ty) demonstrate.
and that by the river least prom1srng. Smee
Argenti na put Malbec on the international
wrne map, there has been a certai n amount
of co-operation and emulation, with some
winemakers chasing ri peness and much
more daring, if untraditional, use ofoak.
Way upstream fr om Cahors (and therefore
marked on the map of France on p.53) are the
vineyards of the wild Aveyron departement
rn the last vestiges of the Mass1f Central's
once-flour1shrng v1gnoble Marcillac 1s the
most important wrne, a peppery light red
made from Fer Servadou, potentially hard
as iron but gett ing riper. Entraygues- Le Fel
and Estaing, though trny, are appellations
with a handful ofexcellent growers.
The hill cou ntry around the River Tarn, west
of Albi, and downstream of the magnificent
gorge cut by the river into the Cevennes,
seems almost tame by comparison. Its ro lling
green pastureland 1s gentle rn both aspect
and climate, studded with beautiful towns
and villages, of which a fu ll 73 are contained
w1thrn the appellation Galllac Wrne was
probably made here long before vrnes were
cultivated downstream rn Bordeaux but, as
rn Cahors, phylloxera crippled the wrne trade.
There has been increased soph1sticat1on rn
matching the varied terro1rs of Gaillac to its
decidedly various vine var1et1es The most
characteristic red wine ingredients are the
peppery Fer Servadou, known here as
Braucol, and the much lighter, spicy Duras.
Syrah 1s a welcome intruder, Gamay less so
for early-drrnkrng Ga1llac Primeur, and
Bordeaux red grapes are tolerated . Darker­
sk1nned grapes now predominate and work
wel l on the gravelly clay soils south of the
Tarn The southeast fac rng right bank 1s
well suited to the sweet and sweetish whites
zl•
for which Ga1llac, with its long, dry au tumns,
was once famous. Local wh ite grapes include
Mauzac, Len de l'EI, and the rarer Ondenc,
now JOrned by Sauvignon Blanc.
Immediately to the west between the Ta rn
and the Garonne, Fronton 1s the local red and
rose wrne of To ulouse based on the floral local
Negrette grape. Downstream, on the left bank
ofthe Garonne, hes Buzet, with vrneyards
scattered over 27 communes of orchards and
fa rms. Production 1s largely in the hands of
one we ll-organized co-op, whose red could
be described as "country claret". The C6tes
du Martnandais, even fu rther north, 1s best
known for its cult winemaker Ellan da Ros.
Abour1ou grapes spice up the Bordeaux blend
that, predictably, characterizes these parts
to make an att ractive light red .
The other Atlantic port
The re maining wrne regions rn the south of
this map h1stor1cally depended on the port
of Bayonne rather than Bordeaux. Madlran
1s Gascony's great red wrne, grown on clay
and limestone hills along the left bank of the
River Ad our The local red grape, Tannat,
1s well- named for its dark and tan nic, tough
and vigorous wines, often blended with some
Cabernet and Pinenc (Fer Servadou rn yet
another d isguise). The region's dynamic
wrnemakers differ on whether and how
to tame these monsters, usrng varying
degrees of new oak and even dellberate
(micro · ) oxyge nation, but matu re Mad1ran (1t
can take ten years) needs no apology
Juran�on 1s one of France's most d1st1nct1ve
white wines, a tangy, green -tinged essence
made rn a wide range of sweetness levels on
the steep Pyrenean foothills ofBearn. Gros
Manseng grapes, sometimes enlivened by a bit
of Petit Courbu, are responsible for the dry,
earlier-picked Juran�on Sec, while the smaller,
thicker· skinned PetJt Manseng berries are left
to shrivel on the vine rnto November, and
sometimes even December Juran�on
Moelleux is gastronomically sweet while
Vendange Tard 1ve 1s even richer, and needs
at leasttwo passages through the v ineyard .
The general Bearn appellation 1s used for the
red, white, and rose wrnes made here outside
Mfid1ran and Juranc;on
In Tursan, downstream of Mad1ran,
Cabernet Franc and Ta nnat red wines
overshadow some rare whites made from
the local Baroq ue grape. The trny but growing
appellation oflrouleguy makes France's only
Basque wine, including a notable firm,
refre shing rose. The red is based on Tannat,
while whites depend on such local grapes as
Petit Courbu and the Mansengs. Most ofthe
vrnes are grown on south-fac ingterraces as
Bordeaux /
Goffe
L
A
0L1!'-
-
et-M1xe
de
�'
Gascogne
Costets0�
Vieux· Bouca .:>
A
_
0
Sousto
Jj
Capbreto 9
11a
StJeandeLrz/
0 A63
_.,.
(·<l,.eefiabte
,
,
,-.
..
.
,
ESPANA
r••3•
a St Vin n de Tyrosse
�
More•
0
lei

Lobri1
·a
E
high as 1,300ft (400m) above the Atlantic,
their labels heavily adorned with Xs.
The vast sweep of vi n eyards around Auch
was once devoted to Armagnac, not wi ne, but
Is now also the source ofusefully inexpensive
crisp dry wh ite IGP C6w• de Gucogne from
su ch distillable grapes as Colombard and Ugn1
Blanc The dominant Pla1mont co-o perative
union has done much to rescue local vine
varieties from extinction. Red St-Mont and
(often sweet) white Pacherenc du Vlc·Bllh
arerespective echoes of Mad1ran and
Juranyon, t he latter made within the Mad1ran
zone from local grapes including Arruftac
and Petit Courbu.
•
atl'INl
lWl
l
ADP/AOC
-
-
-
c:
::
:J
-
Notable producer
lnternatlonal boundary
Departement bound1ry
COtes de Duras
COtes du Marmandals
Cahors
Coteaux du Quercy
Buzet
c:
::J
c:
::J
-
-
c:
::J
c:
::J
-
-
-
WINES OF THE SOUTHWEST • l'"ANCI
111
Arma1nac
Brulhols
Fronton
Galllac
Tursan
St-Mont
Madlran et Pacherenc
du V1c-Bllh
Beam
Juran�on
lrouleguy
Il
l'
c:
::J
COiesdeGascotne
c:
::
:J
Lavllledieu
r"1i
i'
Ar11 mapped at lar;er scale
L.
..
..!.!.:!
..
.
on paae shown
Tu rsan 1s mostly
consumed locally,
especially at Michel
Guerard 's three-star
restaurant here at
Eugenie -les -Bams.
RDOG
�
E
CllI.IRb'l'Nh
'\\___.
.
•\
CLOS TRIGU:OLNA
BergPrBJ '
•
'
•
Cll Pl�[RA!f
DOM CO>;I' \IAISO,'iffVE
(J.05 D US JOLR
GIRONDE
Q
I
u
sI
/
C as t 1ilonnes
)
/"
Puy l'Eveque
•
(
/
Cll
Jl�
WJRE
N21
'
..
..
..
.
Ct,OS
;
[ Ac o utArn Pontci
�
·
-"4
�
----:
:
,.
..
..
.:
1..
.:
1�
3
�ur lot
0
T
,.
ET
Cancan�
l
�,
r_/
,.
.-'
SI Beat
CLOS DE �AMOT
qR1eux '\ \._.,
c;.Mo�11>8{u:eu Vo lvestre
7
·-
\/
ARIEGE
I 1,090,00
0
KmO
10
20
30
M.lot0
5
10
15
20
The area producing
the table wmes of
St-Mont is subtly
different fro m that
responsible for
Fr ance's other great
brandy, Armagnac.
AO
30Ko
o
26
30�
NU
N112
Ac
cou£
o
loruns
oArrens
NI
(
21'
D
T
E
r

•
I
I
c
c
o
D
T
[
T
116
FRANCE
The Loi re Valley
11,00
0
,00
0
KmO
10
20
30
..OKm
1-
-
��.._-...
..
..
..
..
..
�..
..
..
.
-.
..
.
�__.
Milo
o
O
10
20Milo
o
There is a fam ily likeness about Loire
wines that makes them worth mapping as
a whole, varied and complex as they are.
The river is France's longest, 629 miles
(1,012km) from source to mouth, with wide
variations of climate, soil, and trad1t1on, and
four or ftve key grape varieties The likeness?
Loire wines are refreshing and invigorating,
never massive, and rarely expensive. Over
halfare white, most of them based on a
single grape variety
Travelling upriver from the Atlantic, the
ftrst grape the drinker encounters is Melon
de Bourgogne, in the form of Muscadet, then
in AnJou the Loire's signature and ftnest
variety, Chen in Blanc, grad ually giving way in
eastern To ura1 ne to Sauv1gnon Blanc, the
grape that reigns supreme way upriver 1n
Sancerre and Po u1lly- sur- Lo1 re Western
To uraine, around Saumur, 1s the hub of Loire
reds, based on the fragrant Cabernet Franc
Round the mouth of the river hes the Pays
Nanta1s, Neptu ne's own vineyard, the home
of Muecadet Its Melon de Bourgogne Is a
distant relative of Chardonnay Beside a
plate of shrimps, oysters or mussels this
very dry, slightly salty, ftrm rather than
ac 1d1c wh ite 1s one ofgastro nomy's most
convincing chches . Perhaps Muscadet,
perfect as 1t Is 1n its mar1t1me context, 1s too
modest (and modestly priced) for its own
good ; clearly too much so for many wine
drinkers. A slump in sates and grape prices
saw the Muscadet vineyard shrink from
32,850 ac res (1 3,300 ha) In the early 1990s
Pays Nantais
Muscadet and Gros Plant
du Pays Nanta1s (l,520hal
Muscadet �re et Maine (6,300ha)
Anjou-Saumur
-
Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire (150ha)
Quarts-de-Chaume (29ha)
Bonnezeaux (BOhal
Muscadet COtes de Grandheu (230ha)
Coteaux d'Ancems (156ha)
Aniou Coteaux de la Loire (23ha)
to around 20,250 acres (8,200 ha) in 2017.
s•vre et Maine, the best-k nown region,
mapped in detail opposite, fa res better than
most and has 77% of Muscadet's vineyards,
densely planted on low hills of various soils,
mostly ofgneiss, gran ite, and schist . The
heart of the d1str1ct hes around Vertou,
Val let, St- F1acre, and La Chapelle- H euhn -
the area where the wines are ri pest, hvehest,
and most scented. Muscadet Coteaux de la
Loire, made wel l inland around Ancenis on
steep slopes of sch1st or granite, tends to be
a little leaner, while Muscadet C6tes de
Grandlleu, made on sandy, stony soils
closest to the Atlantic, 1s more supple and
riper than most.
Muscadet has traditionally been bottled sur
he - straight from the fe rmentation vat,
unracked (an increasingly common practice
elsewhere) - the lees deepening both flavour
and texture and sometimes leaving a
refreshing prickle Determined to throw off
their wine's reputation for s1mphc1ty, the
best producers have been choosing to
harvest healthier, riper grapes, extending
lees-ageing, d1stingu1shing between different
solls, and age ing some of their best wines in
oak or even amphoru Spec1ftc village crus
are being identified, with Chsson, Gorges,
and Le Pal let the first approved, in 2011
Wines like these can defy the "d rink me
,,,
c:
::
::
:l
Aniou-Wlages (159ha)
-
Savenmeres (wrth Roche aux M oines,
Coulee de Serrant) (158ha)
Coteaux de l'Aubance and An1ou-Villages­
Bnssac (342ha)
Coteaux du Layon (wrth Coteaux du
Layon Chaume) U .660ha)
c=J Saumur (2,418ha)
rz-z.
..i!I
Saumur-Champ1gny U .60
0
hal
Sa umur- Puy-Notre-Dame (7lha)
OISLY
Coteaux de Saumur (10ha)
Name that can be added
to the Saumur appellation
quick" Image; at ftve, even 10 years they can
be intriguingly complex. worth a fa t, buttery
sole. Outside the areas mapped m detai l,
Jasnleres, north ofTo urs on the tributary
Lo1r, produces some fine, ge nerally ft rm,
dry Chenin Blanc, with the Coteaux du Lolr
contributing hght reds. Just to the east,
Coteaux du Ve nd6mols produces hght red
and rose Pineau d'Aunis Back on the Lo ire
itself, Cheverny flourishes in myriad forms,
ofwhich some quite piercing Sauvignon Blanc
with a little Chardonnay is pro bably best.
Dry, ageworthy wh ites made from the
intense, often sharp Romorantm grape are
labelled Cour-Cheverny Orlean. (fam o us
for its vinegar) and Orleana-Cljry are the
vestiges ofa much shrunk vin yard that
once supplied Par1 • Well to the south, on the
Cher, Valencway makes precocious Sauv1gnon
Blan :md Gamay

-
c:
:J
AMBOISE
eIra.!
Dil
l
..,
,
Touralne
Bourgue1I, St-N icolas-de-
Bourguell, and Chinen (4,680ha)
Tou raine Noble Joue (37ha)
Vouvray and M ontlou1s·
sur-Lolre (2,622ha)
Valen�y (l 73ha)
Name that can be added
to the Tou ra1ne appellation
Departement boundary
Maier wine-growing commune
Area mapped at larger scale
on page shown
Weather station CWSl
Commune on which a
cruisbased
·� Nolable producer
Woods
lQ:· Contour1nleMlt25metres
lndMdual v11
1
ey1rds are not shown.
sevreetMaine1sdenselyplenteclwithvmes
-
c=
=i
-
-
-
Coteaux du Lair and Jasml!res (143ha)
Coteaux du VendOmo1s (106ha)
Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny (719hal
Orl�ns-Clery (28ha)
Orl�ns (103haJ
Coteaux du G1enno1s (194haJ
Sancerre, Pou1lly-sur- Lo1re , and
Poullly-Fume (4,342ha)
Menetou-Salon (576ha)
Reu1lly and Quincy (562ha)
1 325,00
0
KrnO
5
lOKrn
Mll.0
1-
I
______.
.
.
___
S
_
M_
olo
o
_,
.
THE LOIA� VALLEY • 11' .. ANCI
117
Ne..-.rs
LO IRE VA LLEY VINEYARDS
The key gives the area under vine for
appellations in 2016/17
LOIRE: NA TES
Latitude / Elevation ofWS 47.15' / 85ft (26m)
Avgrowi ng ea on temp at WS 61.0'F (16.1'C)
Ave rage annual rainfall at WS 32 . 3in (820mm)
Harvest month ra infall at W
September: 2 .5 i n (63mm)
Principal viticultural h aza rd s
Spring fr ost, early autumn rai n, mildew
Principal grape varieties
W: Melon de Bourgogne, Gros Plant Nantais
(Folle Blanche)
LO IRE: TOURS
Latitude / Elevation ofWS 47.44° / 354ft (108m)
Av grow 11
1
g eason temp atW 60.4'F (15.B'C)
Ave r age annual rainfall at W 27.4 in (696mm)
Harvest month rainfall at WS
October: 2 .S i n (71 mm)
Pri ncipal viticultural hazard
Frost, hail, fu ngal diseases
Prin ipal grape varieties
R : Cabernet Franc; W : Chenin Blanc
LOIRE: BO URG ES
Latitude/ Elevation of W 47.06' / 528� (161ml
Avgrowing ea on tempat WS60.7'F (16.0'C)
vcrage annual rainfallatW 29.4in (748mm)
Har est month rainfall at WS
September: 2.41n (60mm)
Principal viticultural hazard�
Spring fro st, hall, fu ngal diseases
Principal grap 'ariet 1e.,
R : Plnot No1r; W : Sauvignon Blanc
I•
D
[
E
f'
'
o

A
•
c
o
0
T
[
T
118
FRANCE • THE LOIRE VALLEY
1 112,50
0
Canton boundary
Commune (pansh) boundary
Appellation boundary
•ClD1rl
lt
Notable producer
Vineyards
Woods
Contour interval 20 metres
Anjou
Warmer •ummer• and better viticulture
add 1ood dry white and fragrant red to
the 1reat •wHt white and ordinary ro•'
fo r which Anjou wa• bHt known .
Te rrolr The schist and slate of Brittany's
Armor1can Massif meet the clay and
limestone of the Paris Bum just south of
Anger•, creating slopes usefully exposed
south-southwe•t to the sun and drying
winds stral&ht off' the Atlantic.
Climate Grapes don't always ripen fu lly so
close to the northern llmlt of French
vltlculture, hence the importance of the
sparkling wine indu•try in nearby Saumur
Grapes W Chenin Blanc; R: Cabernet Franc
Chemn Blanc 1n its homeland, plus autumn
sunshine and noble rot, encou raged by
11
morning mist from the River Layo n, can
make sweet wines with thrilling ripeness and
near-perfect ac id balance. In the southeast
of the area mapped here, Coteaux du Layon
1s the broad appellat ion, embrac ing Quarts
de Chaume, the Loire's first official Grand
Cru; a mere 72 acres (29 ha), with as many as
20 prod ucers nowadays. Bonnezeaux (with
about 2 .5 times the vineyard area) 1s also
outstanding enough to have its own AOC.
The elusive River Aubance, paral lel with the
Layon to the south, also sees great sweet
wh ite wines when Nature co-operates.
Coteaux de l'Aubance has been invaded by a
benign army of talented wine producers.
Savennleres, also recently bolstered by an
infl ux of reputable producers from elsewhere
in Aniou, is on one of its rare steep south­
fac 1ng banks. Again 1t 1s Chemn Blanc, but here
the wine 1s dry, as dense and rich in substance
as 1t 1s r1g1d 1 n structure in youth Within
Saven meres two vineyards have their own
AOC Roche aux Moines, with 81 acres (33ha),
and Coul'8 de Serrant, whose 17 acres (7ha)
are fiercely and fam ously b1odynam1c.
These are historically the finest wines
of Aniou, but the region's basic Aniou
appellation has also been in a state of
benevolent transformation. Dry (sec)
Anjou Blanc can nowadays be truly fine, and
1s made every year, unlike its great sweet
wines Selective picking by hand (rather than
the ubiquitous machine harvester), and the
sens1t1ve use of oak are raising standards .
Basic Rose d'Anjou, a little fresher than in
its mawkish past, 1s far surpassed by dry
Rose de Loire and the delicate ly scented,
off-dry pink Cabernet d'Anjou
Although the sch1stous soils here are
ge nerally better suited to whites, Cabernet
Franc has its place, too, In Anjou Rouse.
which tends to be tougher and more tanmc
than in Toura1ne, so needs to be ripened and
handled carefully. The best of these,
occasionally stiffened by Cabernet Sauv1gnon
(fully ripened only 1n the warmest years),
earn the appellations Anjou-Vlllqes, and in
its heartlan d , Anjou·Vlll&1••·llriHac In the
best vintage they can rival the ubtle thrill
of a great To uraine red
•I

Saumur
The town of Saumur, 30 mll•• (48 km)
upstream ofAn1ers, Is th• Loi re's
Reims and Epernay rolled Into one,
with kllometrH of sparklln1 win•
cellar• carved In the •oft local tutfeau.
And Saumur-Champlcny can be one
ofth• Loi re's bHt reds.
Te rrolr The Saumur bit of Anjou-Saumur
is based on soft tuffeau . The r1vers1de
white tuffeau Is porous limestone, while
Saumur's red wine country 1s on sandier,
yellower soil .
The Loire 1s France's second biggest
prod ucer of sparkling wine, after Champagne
Saumur is its centre, mopping up the Chemn
Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and
eight more minor varieties grown all over
Saumur and An1ou that are too tart to en1oy
as a still wine. Saumur Brut 1s made, like
champagne, by the trad1t1onal method and,
as 1n Champagne, exper1mentat1on with oak
1s on the rise. Like champagne, it can be both
white and pink, but 1t tends to be softer,
more fhrtat1ous, 1f less complex. Also
cheaper The least amb1t1ous examples may
have been in bottle fo r only nine months.
Cremant de Loire tends to be finer, more
tightly woven than Saumur Brut because of
its st ricter production rules - lower yields,
hand harvesting, and at least a year in bottle
on the lees. Most of1t is made in Saum1.1_r, but
the grapes can be grown anywhere in Anjou,
Saumur, and To urai ne. Chemn Blanc 1s by fa r
the most common ofthe 11 permitted
grapes. Prestige de Loire 1s an informal
category of superior, vintage- dated fizz.
Still Saumur, without bubbles, comes in all
three colours and is made mainly from the
signature grapes of An1ou-Saumur: Chenin
Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Sti ll Saumur is
much riper overal l than in the past;
Saumur-Champigny reds, though, from
the small enclave mapped here, deserve our
closer attention. This 1s one ofCabernet
Franc's freshest and most fragrant
expressions, from tuffeau soils that are
effectively an extension of the best red wine
country of Tourame 1ust to the east Vines
are densely planted on slopes above the
steep cliffs close to the Loire's south bank,
whHe inland, around St-Cyr-en- Bourg with
its reliable growers' co -op, the local
tuffeau becomes yellower and sand ier
and tendsto produce slightly lighter
wines; 1t depends on the producer, the
age ofthe vines, and of course their
taste The most famous producer
here, Clos Rougeard, became so
cult1sh that in 2017 the eighth
generation of the Fo ucault family sold 1t to
the billionaire Bouygues brot hers, owners of
Chateau Montrose in St-Estephe - and a
great deal besides The cult, unsurprisingly
in these parts, involves biodynam1sm
Saumur Puy-Notre- Dame (about 12
miles/30 km southwest of Sau mur) 1s a
relatively new sub-appellation for fragrant,
mainly Cabernet Franc reds coming from a
wide swathe ofSaumur, rather than
Ackerman's cellars, hewn fr om the limestone
tuffeau under Saumur, provide constant coolness
for wme maturation and storage, and can be as
deep as 394� (120m). To urists are welcome.
anywhere as specific as the village of Le
Puy-Notre Dame. As elsewhere in the Loire,
reds have been getting stronger and darker,
thanks to much-improved vine-growi ng, and
perceptible climate change
�partement boundary
Canton boundary
Commune (parish) boundary
Appellation boundary
Notable producer
Vineyards
Woods
Contour interval 20 metres
1 117,60
0
�o
s�
1-
-
�..
..
..
.
�.-
-
.._�..
..
..
..
..
..
�..
..
..
�"T"'
�-0
JM;lo,
c
o
D
'
E
T

•
I
•
c
c
o
D
T
120
FRANC E · THE LOIRE VA LLEY
Chinon and Bourgueil
'
It
)
)
Chlnon, Bourguell, and St-Nicolas-de·
Bourguell are the red wine gems of
To ura.ine. At this western end ofTourai ne,
still influenced by the Atlantic, Cabernet
Franc makes vigorous wine with raspberry
fr uitiness and the rasping savour of a
sharpened pencil. In cool years 1t can be a little
too leafy, but in ripe years such as 2010, 2014,
2015, and 2018 the wine has the substance
and structure to mature for a decade or two
For its quality 1t 1s absurdly undervalued.
All three appellations share the same range
of soi ls - sand, grave l, and limestone - but in
different proportions. Vineyards on riverside
1 127,50
0
�o
s�
i-
-
�----.--�� ..
..
..
�--� -T"
Ml.O
3M.lo
o
sand and gravel make lighter, earlier-drinking
wines. Those grown on pure gravel have a bit
more structure, while the most concentrated,
tan nic wines, built fo r the long term, come
from the higher clay-limestone slopes ofthe
coteaux Very broadly, CHlnon is the most
charming of these Loire reds, Bourguell the
most structured, and St-Nicolas-de·
Bourguell the lightest as most of 1t 1s sandier
than Bourgue1I, but part ofSt- Nicolas also
includes the clay-limestone coteaux.
Growers' amb1t1ons and practices can of
course make as much difference as soil types.
Their most am bitious and prest1g1ous cuvees,
(f
IJ•
II<
..
often from specific vineyards, are aged in
various sizes ofoak cuk, but most producers
make an early-drinking version - wonderful
summer restaurant wine.
Chmon's relatively rare white wine can
be excellent, too - another interpretation
of Chenin Blanc. In 2016, the boundary of
the Chinon appellatton was extended to the
southwest along the south bank ofthe V1enne,
to include eight more communes. The greater
To uraine region (see map, pp.116-17) produces
a miscel lany of other, usually less serious,
re ds, ro ses, and whites, all called To uraine,
but sometimes with such geographical
suffixes as Amboise, Azay-le·Rldeau, or
Mesland. The two most recent suffixes are
Chenonceaux, a vast part ofthe Cher Valley
named opportunistically after the celebrated
river-spanning Chateau de Chenonceau, and
Oisly (for Sauvignon Blanc). To uraine Noble
Joue 1s an unusually dry, characterful rose,
or vin gris, made on the southern outskirts
of Tours from Pinots Meunier, No1r, and Gri s.
For white To uraine without a suffix,
v
t>
Sauvignon Blanc is the
dominant variety and can
be excellent val ue. Reds
may be pure Gamay or
Cot (Malbec) or a blend, often
including Cabernet Franc.
·�
laGdl
le
c:
::J
Canton boundary
Commune (parish) boundary
Appellation boundary
Notable producer
Vineyard name/Lieu-chi
Vineyards
Woods
Contour 1nterv8I 20 metres
• .Anch
/:
... ttJ.
._
.).
Richelieu
piUIWJ •·
j()(.tll
<I
..

.(r
1 75.00
0
Canton boundary
Commune (pansh) boundary
•
Notable producer
DOMHtlET
laBar
re
Vineyard name/Lleu-d1t
Appellation boundary
� Vineyards
C=:=J Woods
- 100- Contoor interval 20 metres
Vo uvray and Montlouis
Everything royal and romantic about
France is summed up in the middle stretch
ofthe immense river centred on Tours -
a land of renaissance chiteaux, ancient
towns, and beguiling white wines. Its most
d1strnct1ve whites, which come rn all
sweetness levels and are blessed with
extraord inary longevity, are made from
Chenrn Blanc grown on the low hills of soft
tuffeau that flank the river. Fo r centuries
they have provided both cellars and strange
cave-dwelh ngs fo r the rnhab1tants:
troglodytes in the literal sense.
Vouvray can be dry (sec), off- dry (sec­
tendre, an unofficial but increas ingly
popular style), mechum-dry (demi-sec), or
really quite sweet (moel/eux). The infl uence
ofthe Atlanti c meets that oft he continent
here; the weather varies enormously from
year to year, as do the ripeness and health
of the grapes. Vo uvray therefore alters
character radically from vintage to vintage.
some years dry and austere, requ 1rrng
many years' softening Inthe bottle, but
Il
sometimes a gloriously rich ex pression of
noble rot, requiring several diffe rent
pickings, or tries, through eac h vineyard
Serious producers often pick their sec and
demi-sec selectively, too.
It 1s common practice now for producers
to label their still wrnes by site, especially
therr top ones. The best sites in Vouvray
are on top of the cliffs overlooking the river,
where a thrn layer of clay and sometimes
gravel overlays the limestone. The best­
known prod ucer,
'
Huet, owns two: Le Mont,
whose wines are the m'ost concentrat ed,
and the Clos du Bourg, the first to be
converted to b1odynamrc v1t1culture rn the
late 1 980s. A third vineyard , Le Haut-Lreu,
1s fu rt her from the river wrth a much
deeper layer ofclay.
Smee the 1990s, Montlouis, across the
river from Vo uvray, has been a more dynamic
appellation, not least thanks to growers as
am brt1ous and active as Jacky Blot and
Fran901s Chrdarne. The terrorr 1s very s1m1lar
(even locals can find the wines difficult to
,,
THE LOI RE VALLEY • l'"ANCI
1�
ToUtt
•
-..
.
BL•
!
N}
r
\..,
0
P111tra •
/J
J.
urs
l\REO',
I
.
.,�
C,!i du BouT'\
d1fferent1ate), although Montlouis lacks the
perfect sheltered, south-facing srtuatron of
the first ran k of Vouvray's vineyards along
the Lorre. They can produce wi nes with iust
a little more tension. Montlours' vineyards
close to the rrver have clay-limestone sorls
that become rncreasrngly sandy southwards
to the Cher Valley (see the map on p.117)
Although strll wrnes constitute the real
glory of Vouvray and Montlours, al most two
rn every three bottles these days contai n
trad itio n al - method sparkling wine. Reasons
include demand, a higher permitted yield,
less rrsk for growers, and, rn difficult years,
prov1drng an obvious home for underrrpe
grap es. Qual ity varies considerably, but
the best sparkling wines tend to be gently
pettl
l
ant rather than aggressively fizzing.
Much more than sparkling Saumur, we ll­
made sparkling Montlou1s and Vouvray
reward those prepared to give them
serious bottle-age.
__,
c
ii
D
T
E
T

Sance rre and Pouilly
The aromatic Sauvignon Blancs of
Sancerre and Poullly are among France's
most recognizable wines.
Te rroir Mix of about 40% limestone
(cail
l
ottes), 40% clay-limestone (terres
blanches) and 20% on fl int (silex) In Sancerre;
fl int being marked in the north of Pouilly.
Climate Continental with cold wi nters and
some spring frost risk.
Grape varieties W: Sauvignon Blanc;
R: Pinot Nolr
On these limestone and clay hills on either
side of the Loi re, in a climate more extreme
than nearer the Atlantic, Sauvignon can
make better, certainly flner and more
complex, wine than anywhere else 1 n the
wo rld But 1t does so too rarely. The best
prod ucers manqe to Imbue their wines with
the taste of terroir and impressive longevity,
but the popularity of Sancerre, and Pou1lly­
Fume made across the river, has encou raged
many less than thrilling ex amples onto our
shelves and wine lists . (Pou illy-sur- Lolre 1s
the town and the name ofa nearly exti nct
wine made from the mild Chasselas grape,
good 1n Switzerland, merely fa int here. )
It wo uld be a brave taster who maintained
he or she could always tell a Pou1lly Fume
from a Sancerre. The best ofeach are on the
same level: the Sancerre perhaps slightly
fu ller and more obvious, the Pou 1lly- Fume
more perfumed. Many Pou illy vineyards are
lower than those of Sancerre, which he at
elevations of 650-1 .1 50ft (200-350 m)
flan king the hilltop town, and most ofthe
best are to the north ofPou 1lly itself The
soils here have a high proportion ofclay and
fl int (s1lex), which confers the potential for
ageworthy, almost ac rid wines described as
having a gunflint (pierre a fu s1f) character.
Silex occ urs 1n bands from northwest to
southeast throughout both appellations,
while vineyards In the west ofthe Sancerre
appellation tend to be on terres blanches·
wh ite limestone soils with a high proportion
ofclay resulting in rather st urdier wines In
between these two zones, where the
limestone (ca1//ottes) is often mixed with
For all the worldwide fame of Pou1/lyFume, the
town that gives it its name, Pouilly-sur-Loire,
seen here backed by mist over the river, 1s
hardly more than a village.
pebbles, the wines are general ly more
aromatic and expressive when young and
tend to be bottled within very few months
ofthe harvest
Solla of Sancerre
Fo urteen villages have the right to the
appellation Sancerre, many nowadays adding
a vineyard name. Chav 1gnol has three of the
best s ites: Les Monts Damnes, Le Cul de
Beauieu, and La Grande C6te - all on steep
Klmmer1dg1an marl (clay- limestone) sl opes
providing some of Sancerre's most
memorable and long-lived bottles. Bue
answers with La Poussle and Ch�ne
Marchand Other well-known sites Include La
Mouss1ere, Les Romalns (on s1lex), and Belle
Dame between the hilltop town of Sancerre
and Menetreol The s1lex of Menetreol so us
' Sancerre, Sancerre itself, and St-Satur give
particularly steely wine provided the
winemaker I s committed to quality
There 1s talk of establishing a forma1
system of crus, which wo uld c.
.
ertamly he p
consumers find their way aro •.md Sul"h 1s.

t.
..
Orl4ans
RJl lUY
QI L\O
Departement boundary
Canton boundary
Commune (pan!h) bounda ry
•rom
Notable producer
le Pmdls Vineyard name/Lleu-d1t
• Bourges
Appelllbon boundary
Vineyards
Woods
Contour Interval 20 metres
the demand that the total area of Sancerre
vineyard more than trebled in the last
quarter of the 20th century, and by 2017
had reached 7,410 acres (3,000ha): more
than twice the extent of Pouilly-Fume's
3,274 ac res (1,325ha).
In Pou illy, de Ladoucette's Disneyland­
original Chateau du Nozet may be
spectac ular, but the most highly regarded
prod ucer 1s Domaine Didier Dagueneau
Its eponymous late founder pioneered
seriously low yields and experimentation
with oak (echoed by Vincent Pinard, Henri
Bourgeois, Alphonse Mellot, Domaine
Vacheron, and other leading producers
over the river in Sancerre).
Such ambitious growers are understandably
Interested in proving that their wines are
worth ageing, but - in clear contrast to the
great white wines of Vouvray, for example -
the majority of Sancerre and Pou1lly- Fume,
especially those fro m pure limestone soils,
reach their appetizing, fl irtatious peak within
two or three years There are some,
however, such as the intense Chavignol wines
ofFranc;ois Cotat, that can age for a couple
of decades Such a search for quality tends
to fav our vines from old, pre-1950s clones
rather than recent higher-yielding ones
Sancerre and Po uilly THE LO IRE V,1,LLEY • , .. ANCI
123
Menetreol, below the hilltop
town ofSancerre, produces
particularly nervy wine, thanks
to its Pouilly -like flinty soils.
Sancerre's other passion 1s its Pinot No1r,
first choice in the regi on and in Paris,
but only rarely seen abroad . It was the
dominant grape variety in the 19th century,
but today 1t makes up only about a fifth of
plantings and, thanks to improved v1t1culture
and lower yields, can make some fine,
generally pale fragrant reds, 1f hard ly a
challenge to Burgundy. Sancerre rose, too,
often seems overpriced.
Aspiring neighbours
The Coteaux du Giennols is effectively a
northward extension of the Pou 1lly vineyards
(see the map on p.117) producing wine in all
three col ours . The vibrant Sauv1gnon Blancs
from this small, w idely scattered appellation
are best drunk young. Samay and Pinot No1r
are responsible for light reds ofwhich 100%
varietal versions of the former (but not the
latter) are officially and inexplicably allowed.
Well inside the great bend of the river
are the other so-called V1 gnobles du
Centre. Menetou-Salon, Quincy, Reu1lly, and
Chateau meillant have all done well over the
last 30 years. Me netou ·Salon has doubled
in size to 1,423 ac res (576 ha) The vineyard
runs east- west on low K1mmer1dg1an hills,
the southern end of the crescent that
1 172,50
0
starts in Champagne The best producers
are making 1mpress1ve Sancerre-like wh ites
and reds that can be excellent val ue Quincy
and contiguous Reuilly have been revived
from near- exti nction, thanks to producers
sharing cellars and vineyard equipment The
low- lying sands and gravels laid down by the
River Cher leave Quincy particularly
frost- prone, so wind turbines are widely
used to stir the early morning air
From its well-exposed, steep limestone
marl hills and gravel and sand terraces,
Reu1lly not only makes crisp Sauv1gnon
whites, but also some decent Pinot No1r
red and rose Pinot Gris here makes some
pretty, summery vin gr1s that others might
well emulate Some Quincy growers have also
boosted the fortunes of Chlteaumeillant,
a small appellation well to the south, and
even the anc ient, remote St·Pou�ain
in the Allier, al m ost in the dead centre of
France, by buying vineyards there so
they can legal ly make red wine fro m both
Gamay and Pinot No1r
Orleans and Orleans-Clery are the
vestiges of a once-significant wine region
supplying Paris, the latter fo r those who
opt1m1stically grow Cabernet Franc this
far north and east
£
T
F
G-

124
FRANCE
Alsace
The wines of Alsace reflect its situation
on the Franco-German border. They echo
both countries in the grapes they grow,
but in a mosaic of soils and a sunny climate
that makes them unique. And no other
part of France puts the grape name first.
Te rroir Locals claim the most complex
geology in France, with many more different
soil types and aspects than, for exam ple,
the Cote d'Or.
Climate Unusually dry with lots of
sunshine, though relatively cool n ights.
The Vosges mountai ns, or rather their ram
shadow and their geological shifts, are
res ponsible for the climate of Alsace, the
benign beauty of its countryside and ancient
villages, and the potency of its wines Only
Bez1ers and Perp1gnan, near the Spanish
THE GRAPES OF ALSACE
border, are drier than Colmar Drought may
sometimes be a problem here but ripeness
is ge nerally guaranteed.
Two maier fa ult llnes run through the
region. There has been so much geological
act 1v1ty over the millennia that the same
type of granite can be found at the top
of the Schoenenbourg vineyard, 1,300ft
(400 m) above sea level, e.nd lying 5,250ft
(1,600 m) below the Rhine Val ley fl oor
Alsace winegrowers claim more than
800 different terro1rs to Burgu ndy's 60.
Good wines here come from granite, schist,
sandstone, various limestones and marls,
clay, or volcanic soil s . Rare are those who
can taste the differences; it 1s probably
their quaht1es of water- rete nt i on and
drainage that make more diffe rence than
their geology.
Departmental differences
The region 1s spread over two departements,
the Bas- Rhin on lower land to the north and
the Haut- Rhin in the south, where the great
maior1ty of the best vineyards, classified as
THE CHANGE IN THE ALSACE VINEYARD - 1969 AND 2017
Acres
9000
8000
7000
6000
5000
4000
3000
2000
1000
0
2,474
1001 iil
ll
193
Chasselas
6,368
t2 571t>a)
2 614
11,o&l h•!
Sylvaner
2,567
0,0.18h&)
8,182
fl,.311 1\al
Pmot Blanc
2.963
t1 198 1'taJ
8357
(3,362 h&)
R1esl1ng
956
l87 t111)
5,916
(2 3{MIVJ
P1not Gris
840
880
!'.MOhal tM Nil
Muscat
Grands Crus, are to be found. It is a
classificat ion m progress The map overleaf
shows the area with most of the Grands
Crus (to date). Others outside this zone are
given numbers on the m ap opposite, many
of them clustered on a patch of particularly
well-favoured clay- limestone d ue west of
Strasbourg. The Vosges here in the
Bas-Rhin are not so high. They give less
shelter; wines are hghter - which 1s not
to say quality cannot rise to heights. The
b1odynam1c wines of Domaine Ostertag at
Epfig are a prime example.
In 1983, when the appellation was
formahzed, a total of 25 vineyards qualified
as Grands Crus. Today, there are 51
Premiers Crus, analogous to the Cote d'OJ',
are in the pipeline. Already some specific
vineyard s, or lleux-d1ts, may be cited on
labels with the grape varieties they grow
best. And some communes may append
their names or that of a specific
geographical name (Rodern or Cotes de
Barr or Val lee Noble, for exam ple) to the
basic Alsace appellation
4,806
f1 94Sha)
7.598
(J,075 ha.I
Gewurztrammer
3,914
1�1\1)
489
(!9i �11,
,
Pmot No1r
Hectares (ha)
3500
1969
3000
201 7
2500
2000
1500
1000
500
The grapes that give their names and pedal qualities to the wines of Alsace
urc lhc H 1 c <o l ing of the Rhine (re�po n<,1ble here and in Germany for the best
wine of all), the uniquely perfu med G c wurz t ram1n e r, P111oto Hlun , Gris, and
tran rnitsomeofthe hara ter1 -11c smokine s of the region's wl11tc'>, nnd
fo r the >Ofter Auxcrro1 (the two are frequently blended) It 1 s abo the 1110.,l
co mmon bas for spa rkling Crcmant cl ' J ·au�. made b the tratl1t1onal
01r, and Mw.cal and Sylvancr Gcwur1t raminer ib the be&t 111trod ucllon to
the aronrnllc w111e'i of Al<;ace heady with '>Cent anti alcohol
Ric 'ling "' king It o ffu s bomclhmg much more c lu.,hc: a bu lance of hard and
gl nth'. nowcry and �t rong, wluc h leads you on aod never & u r t e 1l,, ll& 011-.ort
1s P11
1
ol G w• . fu ll hodlcd, lightly spic , and with grcut v rs<1ldlty al the t a ble .
Al ace >vlu'>CJI 1s usu.illy a blend of M u,c,1t Otloncl wlth \1 u�cat B l a n c
gr,1 pt·.,. '\t Its he'> I 1 t keep., all of MuM'u L\ charactenst1c grap <,ce nt but
make ., J dry w111c J'o clrnn "' n \\h1.,lk u playful and d1'>linctn·c ap nt11
Imo I .1 \\ Idcly planttd u., R1c'>l111g "' P1not Bl,rnc .1 name u;rd bo th tor
1'11101 Blanc l[i,t'lJ tlw C\CJ')d<1y grape of bac" t h at U'>uall> munugc•s to
method quarter of th total crop cmb up with bubble>.
S:r lvuncr 1& not widely planted Loduy h u t , 111 Lhc right pluct', l'Un y1 Id fi rm,
fresh, harmon1ow, wme> 111 a fmntl� 1 u'lic, ,pring h�dge1ow ,1yle Tlw term
Eclelzw1c/1er (" noble blend") n. u.,u,11ly applied to a mixt u1e ofgrape \,u 1c l i e,,
ge nerally P1not BlanL and the ' hn> s c l as that luh been O\Cl tnkc•n by C h.11 don 1i.1\
(u 1um0\\11 111 1 969) . Pinot 01r, with ww1ner ,cabon;, and th� fa h1011 for hw i,tt111d\
ha 111 0\ed h 0111 u],o I'.lll lo '<'' 10u� conten der lwr '. •1' 1t ha' 111 C,c1 111.1111
So far, only Rlc.,h ng, Pinol Gnb, (,ewurztranunu • •rn<l \1 u,L .1t t h ; \l•.1u
grap e 11obil1l> urc ge nc1 all nll<med tlw \h,KL' c,1 u1d C1 u .1 pp, Il.1t1nn
di,cu.,o,cd O\ciJc,1!

-
�������������������������
����::-;�--;
•
1
.
r.:-:---
-
Wa,
ngen6
St e l n klotz (1) Is known fo r particularly con vincing varietal Plnot Gris and Altenberg de
Wesihoffen o 0
BalbrJlg�nh
e1m
Flexbourg o
•J
Bergblflten (3) fo r Rl..llng, whll• the quality of old Sylva ner vmes in Zotzenberg (7)
has also, unus ually fo r this grape, earned It Grand Cru s tatus.
Wlne stylH
Alsace whites, hke German, are essentially
about fruit rather than oak If oak 1s used at all
rt rs generally in the form of old oval casks
whose flavou r has long since fad ed . It 1s the
grapes you are tasting and their mysterious
translation by fe rmentation into wine Prnot
Norr rs the exception. What used to be a
pretty meagre brew has been transformed
by climate change fr om tart, dark rose to
deep-crimson, even fleshy, well able to take
barrel -age and reminiscent of red burgundy.
Do ngolshe1� /
Oberh I
h Soullz le• Bains
I>
OS OC
ulz19
Lulzelhouse 0
f0Muhlbach·
/ 4 o sur·Bruche
rondfonloine
-(0'Schirmeck
Rolh o
014�
0
Nolzw1 ller
)
I
;:.:.�· ·
le Hohwa ld
0
I
Ronrupl O
(
-,,
,_./
'/
0
�'
0Urbeis
.:
:.
.
)
-
-°"\.,-_,.
.
�
\
(
l
�Marie·
I
aux · Mmes
In the past, Alsace winemakers sought
bon e-d ry, firm, strong wh ites, fe rmenting
every ounce oftherr abundant sugar With
their rich food - their creamy, bacony, eggy
onion tart for instance (Alsace fo od does not
stress the healthy) - they make wonderful
matc hes . Perhaps thinking the market
preferred something less piquant, perhaps
becau se riper grapes are more difficult to
fe rment to dryness - many producers then
toyed with various degrees of sweetness.
The average residual sugar level, particularly
of Prnot Gris and Gewu rztramrner, has been
increas ing, prompting complai nts that the
label doesn't routinely say so. How do yoμ
match a wine with food 1f 1t might be either
sweet or dry?
Glorious autumns also give growers
opportunities to select super- ripe grapes
•
��l
shi'�
Arlzen
�e
l
-
to make either very sweet Vendange Tard 1ve
wines or, even sweeter, rarer, and generally
botryt1zed, Selection de Grams Nobles made
from several pickings, with more body than
Germany's Trockenbeerenauslesen and
more fr agrance than a Sauternes.
A late-picked Gewurztramrner has perhaps
the most exotic smell of any wine in the
wo rld, while keeping a remarkable cleanness,
balance, and finesse of flavour
•Batr
International boundary
[)j!partement boundary
Commune with Grand Cru
vineyard
Wine-producing areas
Area mapped at large r scale
on page shown (Includes
Grand
Cru
vineyards not
shown on this map)
At th e h'"8toric Rangen vineyard (16), wh ich
riSl8S steeply above the village of Th ann,
Schoffit and Zmd·Humbrecht make
•uperbly expre•-'ve wines, eepecia.lly
Rlnhng and Plnot Gris, from Its warm
volcanic soils - a relative rarity In Alsace.
I>
Aspoch
I·Bosq
N66
Remmgue 0
00r
ALSACE • '�ANCI
13
Sa he1m6
DEUTSCHLAND
•
(N)
1 385,00
0
lrand Cru YIRllJlnlS
outsld• 11'1
11
afdl
ll
llld 11
11
11
ISl'EINXLOn
2 ENGl!LBERG
3ALTBNB
BRG
DB Bl!RGJ!DnN
4AL11iNl
ll!l
lG
DEWOl.Xl
lEIM
5 BRVDl!RTl
lAL
6llRCl
ll
ll
llG
DEBAR
R
7ZOT7JINI
ElG
8�
9WIBl
lEISl
l!RG
10 MOliNCHl
ll
ll
lG
11MUENCHl
ll!l
lG
12W1NZl!Nl
ll!RG
13PIWl
lSl'EIN
14PIABLA1
1!Nl
l!l
l
15 OU.WILi.Ei
16ltANGEN
0
'
,_

126
•
•
.!
• Appenthal
J:hl1s..Senstein
The Heart of Alsace
The Alsace vineyards run for over 60 miles
(1 00km) along the eut flank of the Vosges,
mid-slope, in a narrow band between
550 and 1,BOOft (170 and 550 m). The
ke rnel, mapped here, extends for less than
halfthatThe medieval city ofCol mar hes at
their centre, in the lee of some of the highest
mou ntai ns. To the north, across the German
border, they continue as the Haardt
Mountains and perform the same sheltering
service to the vines of the Pfal z . Half­
t1mbered , steep-roofed houses are the norm
on both sides ofthe Rhine, a great number
carrying dates from the late 17th century
Cl1mat1cal ly, gastronom ically, and 1n terms
ofgeneral appeal, they are al most
indistinguishable. Promontories, side-valleys,
even nearby forests i n these pr1v1leged hills
shape the wines produced on different
slopes A dense pine forest nearby can lower
the average temperature of a vineyard by a
fu ll degree Celsius (1 .8°F) compared with one
next to a you ng oak wood
And Alsace 1s sunny. Lorry drivers grinding
their way westward over the Vosges invariably
encou nter a thick bank of cloud as they reach
the crest, with clouds banking up to the west
The higher the mou ntai ns, the drier the land
they shelter from moist west winds. The map
shows the central stretch of the Haut- Rhin
vineyards, where the mountains can keep
the sky clear of clouds for weeks on end In
HAUT·RHIN AND ITS GRANDS CRUS
The map on these pages lays the heart of the
Alsace vineyard on its side, making 1t directly
comparable with the maps of the COte d'Or on
pp.59 -67. The north lies to the right .
this protected climate, classic Riesling,
fragrant but muscular, thrives.
Ironically, wine-growing here 1s so (relatively)
easy that Alsace, during long periods of its
troubled history, played the role ofthe M1d1 as
a source of basic blending material. Hence the
lack, until the Alsace Grand Cru appellation
was created in 1983, of an official hierarchy of
the better and the best vineyards 1n the
manner ofthe C6te d'Or
The merchants
The modern wine industry developed
through the enterprise of farmers (many of
them working land that had been in the
fam ily since the Thirty Years' War) turning
merchant and branding their own and their
neighbours' wines, distinguishing them only
by their grapes Such well-known names as
Beyer, Dopff, Hugel, Humbrecht, Kuentz- Bas,
Mure, and Tr imbac h were the result. Alsace
also had France's first co-operative cellar,
in 1895, and such co-ops as Beblenhe1m,
Egu 1she1m, K1entzhe1m, Tu rc khe1m, and
Westhalten ran k high among some of the
better producers today
But Alsace growe rs are some of the most
terro1r-consc1 ous in the world - not least
because there are so many diffe re nt soils
and subsoils in the region - so 1t 1s not
surpr1s1ng that the best ofthem are proud
of their vineyard -designated wines.
The plai ns at the foot of the vineyards
shown here are ge neral ly too alluvial and
fe rtile to grow good wine, but the ge ntle,
lower slopes tend to have fai rly deep so1la
R1quew1hr, seen fr om th• steep Schoenenbourg
vineyard, Is home to the world·famous house of
Hugel, and looks virtually unchanged fr om when
It was fo unded in 1639

Schlossberg, fa mous fo f' Its cf'ys ta ll
l
ne Ries/Ing, was the ""st
vineyard to be f'ecognlzed as a Grand Cf'u, back In 1975, and is
today the biggest. Its 198 acres (80ha) spf'ead ovef' two steep plots
with s1mllar soils alluvial clay and sandstone ovef' gf'anite. Domain•
Weinbach, Albef't Mann, and Paul Blanck af'e top pf'oduc•f'•.
Colmar, the capital ofAlsace wine, is
one ofthe df'ie st c1t1es in Fr ance.
Departement boundary
Commune (parish) boundary
Grand Cru vineyard
AIJenburg Other leading vineyard
c=
=i
Woods
-
20
0-
Contour interval 20 metres
Other vineyard
T Weather station (WS)
over limestone, the fossil limestone known
as Muschelkalk, marls, clay, and the fa mous
Vosges sandstone used for many local
churches. The analogy with the Cote d'Or
1s clear. The highest, steepest parts ofthe
h1lls1des have only thin topsoils, whether over
granite, weathered gneiss, sch1st, sandstone,
or volcanic sed iments.
Grands Crus and clos
The Grand Cru appellation has had
everyone arguing over exactly which land
deserves exalted status. Virtually all of the
region's finest wines are grown in the
Grands Grus, marked on the map in viol et.
Each has its own appellation, even if in total
they represent less than 5% of the region's
prod uction. Their restricted yields and
increased levels ofripeness offer (at least
theoretically) a higher quality level. They
promote the wines from being a mere
varietal to enjoying appellation status 1n the
fu llest sense: the specific linkage of terroi r
and grape variety based on soil, s1tuat1on,
and - up to a point - tradition Producers
such as Marcel Deiss do not even specify
the grape variety on their labels . His
pr1or1ty 1s not the variety but the terro1r,
expressed m the mixed planting that used
to be the norm.
I•
The Grand Cru decrees st ipulate which
grapes - ge nerally only Riesling,
Gewurztram iner, Pi not Gris, and Muscat -
may be grown in each Grand Cru Blends
may be sanctioned by each Grand Cru's
management committee. The exceptionally
hot Altenberg in Berghe1m 1s a fam ous
example of mixed planting S1te/var1ety
assoc1at1ons tend to be based on growing
and tasting experience, which often turns
out to have some geological link. At
Guebw1ller, at the southern end of this
stretch ofvineyard s, the sandstone of
K1tterle 1s fa mous for its luscious wines made
from a range of grape varieties, particu larly
those grown by Schlumberger Just north of
here at Westhalten, the more limesto ne
slope of Zinnkoepfle fac es due south and
concentrates Gewurztcam iner and Riesling
to new levels of richness, whereas the marls
and sandstone of the southeast-fac ing
Vorbourg at Rouffac h have a particular
affi nity for full-flavoured M uscat.
Hatschbourg at Voegtlinshoffe n 1s a
splendid vineyard of marl and limestone,
ripening den se-textu red Gewurztram iner
and Plnot Gris, Ilka Goldert next door.
Eichberg at Egu 1shelm grows fine
Gewurztram lner and Riesling on marl and
sandstone Hengst at Wintzenhe1m is fa mous
•I•
The Heart of Alsace ALSACE • l' .. ANCI
127
ALSACE: COLMAH
J.nlJ l Udl' f<. l<'V:t t1011 ofWS
47. 93' / 679ft (207ml
Ave rage grow1 11g '>t'.l >On lempcr.1lure al \\ S
60.4'F (15.8'C)
Ave rage .u1 11ual ru mfoll ot WS
23.9in (607 mm)
llarve, l monlh ru1nl.1ll ut WS
September: 2 .31n (58mm)
Prtnupal v1t1cultural hazards
Soil erosion, occasional drought
I 90,00
0
KmO
2Km
1-
-
--..
..
..
.
-
..
..
..
.
..
..
.
Molo
o
0
IMole
/
L
\Z
r•
for the same var1et1es The gran ite of the
Vosges produces Rieslings with extra nerve
at Tu rckhe1m in the Brand Grand Cru, and
at K1entzhe1m 1n Schlossberg. At R1quew1 hr,
the clay marls with some Muschelkal k of
Schoenenbourg also prod uce glorious
Riesling, although the clay ofthe Sporen
Grand Cru south of the village is more
suitable for richer Gewurztraminer.
Nonetheless, some prod ucers, proud of
their own reputations, eschew the Grand
Cru system. The finest Riesling in Alsace -
some would say the finest dry Riesling in the
world - 1s grown in Tr1mbach's Clos Ste-Hune
w1th1n the Rosacker Grand Cru above
Hunaw1hr The name "Rosacker0 is never
mentioned on the label because the
Tr 1mbac hs do not believe that the rest of
this mainly limestone vineyard matches Clos
Ste- Hune 1n qual ity Indeed, the word "c los",
s1gnify1ng a self-contained vineyard often
within another, can be shorthand for quality,
as 1n Domai ne We 1nbach's Clos des Capucins,
at the foot of the Schlossberg in K1entzhe1m ;
Mure's Clos St-Landelin within the Vo rbourg
vineyard ; and Zind-Humbrecht's Clos
Hauserer, near the Hengst Grand Cru, Clos
Jebsal near Tu rckhe1m, Clos St-Urbain 1n
Than n's Grand Cru Rangen (on the map on
p 125), and Clos W1ndsbuhl near Hunawihr
•I

128
FRANCE
Northern RhOne
The Rh6ne, 250 miles (400 km) oflt In
France flowing from the Swiss border to
the Mediterranean, Is divided into two wine
regions, of which the smaller, northern part
is summarized below.
Te rroir Mostly on the steep, narrow banks
ofthe river where granite is the most
relevant bedrock, particularly for Syrah.
Climate Much cooler and wetter than
the southern Rhone, particularly in winter.
Grapes R: Syrah; W: Viognier, Marsanne,
Roussanne
Wine cou ntry begi ns tentatively at first with
Cote-Rot1e, after the Rhone's confluence with
the Saone (Burgu ndy's river) at Lyon .
However, 95% of the valley's wine comes from
its southern 100 miles (160 km), merging into
Provence, together a total of nearly 175,000
acres (70,820 ha) of vines - a potential of
nearly 3 billion bottles of wine The northern
Rhone 1s dedicated to fine wine, in a relatively
marginal climate.
Valence gets 36in (915mm) of rai n a year,
Avignon 26 in (660 mm). These rainfall figu res
explai n why the north is green, the south
decidedly Mediterranean The break between
north and south comes at Montehmar, where
for a short stretch the valley has no vines.
When 1t starts to fu nnel out towards its
delta the vines retu rn. In the north the vine
perches on terraced chffs ofcrumbling
gran ite whereve r the best exposure to the
sun can be found The grape ofthe northern
Rhone 1s Syrah, alias Shiraz But the
northern Rhone can also boast three highly
distinctive, and now fas hionable, white wine
grapes - Marsan ne, Roussanne, and V1ognier.
On the following pages the b
0
est areas of the
northern and southern Rhone are mapped in
detail. Cote - Rot1e, Condr1eu, and Hermitage,
the most majestic Rhone wines, are al l in the
northern sector. Around them he several
others of strong local character, long
trad1t1ons, and evolving re putations
Cornas, on the west bank Just north of
To urnon, seemed for a long time the stubborn
cou ntry cousin to the noble Hermitage, made
of the same Syrah grapes grown on granite,
and with JUSt as much authority and power,
but rather less finesse. The most fa mous
Cornas producers are Thierry Allemand and
the Clapes, but they are no longer the only
ones with an international reputation
The Courb1s brothers, as well as Eric and
Joel Durand, Guillaume Gilles, Vincent Paris,
and Stephane Robert of Domaine du Tu nnel
have rej uvenated the appellation. New
vineyards have been planted, not just on
the original east-fac ing amphitheatre of
terraces but also on old pastures above,
colder sites where grapes may take an
extra fortnight to ripen
The temptation to stretch a good name to
breaking point long ago overtook St-Joseph,
RHONE: VA LE1 CE
Lat1tt1dc/ Elevat ion ofWS
44.91 ° / 525ft (160m)
Ave rage grow ing cason temperature at W
64.1 'F (17.9°C)
Average ann ual rui nfall at W
36.4 in (923mm)
Harvest month rai nfall at WS
September: 4.6in (118mm)
Principal viticullural haiards
Poor weather at flowering, fu ngal diseases,
hail
iust north of Corn as on the same bank,
which now stretches al most 40 miles (60k�
from the St- Peray appellation to well north
of Condrieu.
It was once a group ofiust six naturally
fa voured communes - Glun, Mauves, Tourn<l
lf1
St-Jean- de- Muzols, Lemps, and Vion -
together with Chavanay in Condr1eu countr,
to the north; they have steep granitic slopes
s1m1lar to the hill of Hermitage across the
river. Today, they are the source of some of
the northern Rhone's greatest bargai ns
fre sh, smoky, terro1r-driven reds and some
energet ic whites from the Hermitage grap$5
Marsanne and Roussanne.
However, in 1969, St-Joseph was allowed to
expand into a total of 26 communes, and to
grow from 240 to 3,200 ac res (97 to 1 ,296ha)
by 2017 Not surprisingly the hght, bland
St-Joseph grown on the clay of the much
cooler plateau can be difficult to distinguish
from a northern Cotes du Rhone, the
catch -all appellation of the Rhone Val ley,
which applies to 47 communes north of
Montehmar (and 124 1n the south).
Names to look for in this region are
Chapoutier, Jean Lo uis Chave, Gonon, and
Guigal , while good and consistent quality
comes from domaines such as Courb1s,
Coursodon, Delas, Gripa, Monier-Perreol,
Ste phane Montez, and Andre Perret
Marsanne and Roussanne are giving their
character to more whites round here,
especially in St-Paray , south of Cornas and
ac ross the river from Valence St- Peray waa
long known for its go lden sparkling wi nes, now
also for fine, nervy still wines On the River
Drome, off the map to the east , 1n re latively
high vineyard s, total ly diffe rent grapes
(Cla1rette and Muscat, respectively) make
su bstantial Cremant de Die and feat her·
light, grapey Clal rette de Die Tradition
France 1s rich 1n such halfforgotten Jewels
The sinuous terraces ofCornas seen fr om
above (as, doubtless, more and more vineyard•
will be m the age of the drone) are tucked away
fr om the Rh6n e's coo/mg influence so usually
ripen much earlier than, say, Hermitage

(
I
Dill
0 le Bouschet
St-J u
lien�
f
lov1o c
-
le
Po
uz1
0104
�
�
�
·
Chom
er
oc
�
Bo1x 'l
021
a St-Pierre-
� lo Roche
"'""
Cf
Mure 1ls o
Coor-0
et Buis
J
Monthes0
HautenvesQ
)If>'"
Montchenu o
'Ci'
1vron surt-D rOme
0Allex
Dr<Srn e
S�Donot- /
sur l'Her
�sse
Montrneyron
Lonol·sur-brom
�
Crest
..
..
..
.
R
Die
lo Repcro· Aurip
�r
b Mo rsonne
Puy · St- Morh
0
SOu5e \
�
°CI
�
/
�
�
ar
0
(vlon tbou c her· sur Jobro n
(.
��
.lob ,Ql
l
le
P
ge
l-lovo l
spelu che
NORTHfRN RHONE • F .. ANCI!
129
The narrown c�s of the northern Rhone Valley ha> l1m1ted expansion of the mo;t
ve nerab le appellation5 he re , but some growers are cxpe rtmen t111g with areas n o t
(yet?) bles cd with 0 stalu .
From the l a t e 1990 ome of the more energetic producer; ofCot c - Ro t ie and
Condrteu (see overleaf) began to revive viticulture on promi 11
1
g mica- ch1st
slope o n the oppo ite, left ban k of the river around Sey uel between Lyo n and
V1enne ( hown above) The wine have o fa r been 5old as !GP Collines
Rhodanienne (see the map on p . 53) but the LB growers there are seeking AOC
stat u s, initially as Cotes du Rho n e . The nearly 120 acres (50 ha) planted here can
produce serious, agewo rthy reds from Syrah and a httle wo rthwhile white from
V1ognier, sometimes with a little Ro u ann e .
Another northern Rhone place name een, together wi th the appellatIOn Cotes du
Rho ne, on some wine labels is Brezeme, the village north of Livron-s ur - D rome.
Mo t ly Syrah with a little Marsanne and Viogmer produce robu t, earthy w111es at
the southern limit of the northern Rhone on soils rich in clay, some o uth -faci ng
and protected fro m the prevailing north wind.
A ross the river in the Ardeche departement, Burgundian negocia nt Louis Latour
has Jong exploited the potential for inexpen ive, full-blown Chardonnay fro m
the local co - o ps off to the southwe t of the area mapped here . But producers
such as Mark H ais m a , priced out of the Burgundy market, have found potential
on the n on- a ppellation schists of Flaviac on the right bank of the Rhone between
Va lence and Montelimar
+
�partement boundary
- COte -RObe
- Chateau-Gnllet
Condneu
Condneu/St-Joseph
St-Joseph
- Hermitage
-
Crazes-Hermitage
Comas
-
St-Peray
COtes du R hOne
Gngnan-les-AcJMmar
Dil
l
Area mapped at larger scale
on pa11e shown
.. Weather station (WS)
KmO
Milo
o
0
1 450,00
0
10
15Km
10Milo
o
�'t
t:
.
--.
.>
"'-
-
-
.
--
-,
�..
.,),
Pa ris
�
�
'<-
D
T
E
T
F
..

130
FRANCE • NORTHERN RHONE
Cote-Rotie and Condrieu
C6te-R6tle's ribbon of vineyards, hugging
the granite western walls ofthe valley
at Ampuls In perilous terraces, has only
recently known worldwide fa me. Until the
spotlight of fa shion picked out the si ngle­
minded Marcel Gu1gal and his exceptional
wines i n the 1980s, Cote-Rotie was an insider's
wine, astonishing all who discovered 1t with
its magical soft, floral, fruity finesse,
southern in warmth but closer to a great red
burgundy in the way firm tan nins supported
delicate flavours - in contrast to the
burliness of Hermitage, the northern
Rhona's most fa mous emissary.
Like Hermitage, Cote-Rot1e 1s certainly
Roman or earl ier in origi n Up to the 19th
centu ry, its wine was sold by 76 l itres (20
gal lons): the measure of a double amphora.
It long mai ntai ned its almost secret niche as
one of France's greatest wines. When this
Atlas was first published in 1971, the total
area of vineyards was only 173 acres (70 ha)
and dwi ndling Its price barely justified the
hard work involved m cultivating the back­
breakingly steep terraces The world has since
"d iscovered" Cote-Rotie, prices have risen
steeply, and by 2017 the vineyard area had
more than quadrupled to 761 acres (308 ha),
defin1t1vely overtaking Hermitage in te rms of
the amount of wme prod uced, and offering a
far greater array of producers to choose from .
As the name implies, this southeast-facing
slope (so steep that grad ients can reach 60° m
places, and pulleys, even monorai ls, have to
be used to transport anything as heavy as a
box of grapes) is indeed "roasted" (r6t1e)
m summer Many parts of th1s strip of
vineyards, sometimes barely 1,640ft (500 m)
wide, are exposed to t�e sun all day. The
hard rock (schist m the north) from which
these r1vers1de plots are hewn retai ns every
degree of heat. Newer planti ngs on the
plateau above have more difficulty ripening
in cool summers and have arguably diluted
Cote-Rotie's reputation.
It may seem obvious where the boundaries
should be: the northwestern one at the top of
the fam ously roasted slope, and the south­
eastern boundary now formed by the 0386,
the road that winds down the right bank of
the Rhone south of Lyo ns.
The blonde and the brunette
But iust how far northeast and southwest
true C6te-Rot1e terro1r extends has been
disputed for centuries. All are agreed,
however, that the original vineyards are
centred on the two most obvious slopes above
the drab litt le town of Ampu1s: the Cote
Blonde on a south-fa cing spur iust south of
town and the southwest-facing ban k to the
north, the Cote Brune The Cote Blonde, being
part of the greater Massif Central, has more
granite, someti mes visible at the surfac e,
with notably soft topsoils, comprising many
different plots of sandy/slate soil with a pale
limestone element These yield softer, more
charming, earlier-developi ng wi nes than
those p roduced on the even more varied
C6te Brune. Here schist and heavier clay
are darkened by iron, and the wines are
traditionally tighter, sometimes smoky.
"La La" Land
The 1nd1v1dual vineyards most likely to be
found on labels are mapped opposite The
local map lists even more. Being equal m
quality but different 1n style, the wines ofthe
C6te Blonde and Cote Brune were in the past
blended by merchants to produce a unified
Cote- Rot1e. But m the 1980s, the dominant
producer, Gu1gal, started a trend for v1neyard ­
designated botthngs. By bottling separately
wines labelled La Landonne, La Moulme, and
La Turque, after ageing them in new oak for
a daring and dramatic 42 months, Guigal has
come as close as any grower to creating a
new Romanee-Cont1. These are wines for
millionaires, impressed by power and
pungency, but not always for lovers ofclassic,
gentle Cote-Rot1e, matured in barrels that
are themselves mature. Trad1t1onalists might
prefer wines from Barge, Gangloff, Jamet,
Jasmin, Levet, and Rostamg's Cote Blonde.
Of Gu1gal's so-called "La Las", the longest­
lived comes from the plot called La Landonne,
which 1s also bottled by Jean-Michel Germ
and Rene Rostam g. But this is the only one
that is officially recogn i zed. La Mouline, a
Gu1gal brand name since 1966, is a sumptuous,
velvety monster produced from 60-year-old
holdings in the Cote Blonde, as marked on the
map La Tu rq ue, another Guigal brand created
in 1985, 1s made from vines also marked on
the map, high above the centre of Ampu1s,
while the more trad1t1onal Cote-Rotie bottling
under Guigal's more recently ac quired
Chateau d'Ampuis label is a blend from seven
quite different vineyards from both Cotes
Brune and Blonde. It seemed inevitable that
Marcel Gu1gal would acq uire and glamorously
renovate the down -at- heel Chateau d'Ampu1s
right on the river's edge, which is where his
parents worked 1n their youth.
But C6te-Rotie is far fr om being a one-man
appellation. Gilles Barge, Billon, Bernard
Burga ud, the Bonnefonds, C lusel - Roch ,
Duclaux, Jean · Michel Germ, Garon, Jamet,
Ste phane Ogier, Domaine de Rosiers, Jean ­
M1chel Stephan, and many other prod ucers
based 1n Condr1eu or St-Joseph can all make
wi nes of great interest . Merchants with
particularly significant C6te-R6t1es include
Chapout1er, Delas, Jaboulet, Vidal- Fleury
(owned by Gu1gal), and, of course, Gulgal itself
The painstakingly hewn and terraced vlneyarda
high above Ampuls are a11 steep as some on the
Mosel and, slml/arly, call for mechanical help In
transporting grapes. Maybe C6te-R6t1e 1s
underprlced?

L
Th ere is 260fl:
(80m) of elevation
between the top
and bottom of the
steep, southeast­
fa cing terraces of
the tiny AOC
Chdteau - Gril
l
et,
owned and run by
the Neyre t-Gachet
fa mily between
1827 and 2011
Fr an9ois Pinault's
Art�mis Domaines
has maintained
the d1s tinct1ve
brown bottle and
simple label but
has introduced a
Vi ognier
vineyards south
ofChavanay are
Condrleu AOC while
those planted with
Syra h, Marsanne or
RouHanne are
St-Joseph
r L.. Grandes Places Is a heu-dlt
I
whose name is increasingly found on
th• labels of/ts muscular C6te R6tle,
as ls La Via /I/ere, whose wines are
more fr agrantly floral.
I 61,5.40
ItIS notJUSt
geography that
d1st1ngu 1shes
Cote-Rot1e from
Hermitage. In
theory, Cote­
Rotie growers
have long been
allowed to add
wine depends. Guigal's La Mouhne 1s
often enlivened by more than 10%
Viogn ier, but 0-5% is the most
common proportion.
The sumptuous white
The extraordinarily heady,
recogn izably perfumed V1ognier
grape, with its aromas ofapricots and
May blossom, is the speciality of the even
smaller appellation of Condrieu, into which
the Cote- Rot1e vineyards merge to the
south. Schist and mica give way here to
crumbled, sanded granite Many of the local
growers make both of these prest1g1ous
wines, to the chagrin of bigger merchants
who would like to acq uire their wines or,
preferably, their vineyards. At one time,
Condr1eu was more commonly encou ntered
as a sweet but decidedly obscure wh ite.
The difficulty of growing such an unreliable,
disease -prone, low-y1�ldlng vine as Viognier
on the often steep slopes above the village
of Condr1eu compared unfa vou rably with
other much easier - and at the time more
lucrative - crops. By the 1960s, the total
planted area of the Condr1eu appellation,
created in 1940, had shrunk to barely
30 acres {12 ha). Fortunately, the charms of
Viogn ier In ge neral and Condr1eu 1n particular
were so obvious that an increasingly
international fan club developed, and the
vari ety 1 s now grown all over the world.
l.
NORTHERN RHONf • l'ftANCI
121
Departemenl boundary
Commune (parish) boundary
LE CLOS Vineyard name
Appellation boundary
Vineyards
Woods
20
0
Contour Interval 20 metres
But the enthusiasm has been sufficient to
1dent1fy new clones of V1ognier (not all of
them predi cated on wine quality) and
encourage a new blast of creative energy
1n Condr1eu itself
Among the top producers ofclassical,
fragrant, al most exclusively dry Condr1eu
are Georges Ve rnay, with the longest-lived
Condr1eu, fr om Coteau du Ve rnon, and Gu1gal,
whose deluxe bottling La Dor1ane 1s blended
fr om grapes grown in the Cote Chat1llon and
Colomb1er vineyards. Yves Cu1lleron, Yves
Gangloff, and Rem1 and Robert N1ero are
other over-achievers All this creativity
demands vineyards, and Condr1eu has been
growi ng, to 487 acres {197 ha) by 2017. The
Condr1eu appellation stretches from the
village of Chavanay, where growers may also
produce St-Joseph (and the higher granite
content in the soil 1s said to imbue some
"minerality" in the wines), as far north as the
hills above Condr1eu itself, which can yield
particularly rich V1ognier
In order to produce an economic crop level,
V1ognrer needs shelter from the cool north
wind at flowering ti me. The most fa voured
vineyards in Condr1eu tend to have a powdery,
m1ca- r1ch topsoil locally called arze/le . They
include Chery, Chanson, Cote Bonnette, and
Les Eyguets (all marked on the map). Condrieu
combines alcohol ic power with a hau nting but
surprisingly fragi le aroma. It 1s one of the very
few luxury-priced wh ites that should generally
be drunk you ng.
The most unusual Viognier is Chiteau­
Grillet· 8 .6 acres (3.5ha) in a pr1v1leged
amphitheatre of vines that, since 1936,
has had its own appellation within Condr1eu's
territory Its price has recently reflected
more its rarity than its obvious quality, but
the estate has been determinedly upgraded
by Artemis Domaines, the wine interests
of Fran<;:ois Pinault, who also owns Chateau
Latour in Pau illac. Unlike Condr1eu, 1t
demands bottle ·age, and decanti ng.
".
c
o
0
T
E
T
F
'G

Herm itage
The C6te-R6tie hunches its back against
the north to ripen its Syrah. Thirty miles
(50km) further south, the imposing hill of
Hermitage does the same - on the other
side of the river. It seems hard to square
its fame with its tiny area· with 336 acres
(136 ha) of vi nes, the entire Hermitage
appellation is not that much more exte nsive
than, say, Ch!teau Lafite And, unlike
appellations ac ross the river such as
St- Joseph, expansion is limited by long­
standing decree.
But Hermitage has traditionally been
celebrated as one of France's most glorious
wines. The records of Bordeaux producers
shipping 1n Hermitage to beef up their own
wines date back to the mid -18t h century.
Andre Julhen's celebrated survey of the
world's finest vineyards, Top ograph1e de
To us Jes Vlgnoblea Connus, first published
in 1816, lists the ind1v1dual c/lmats, or small
plots, of Hermitage alongside Chiteau
Lafite and Romanee-Cont1 as among the
best red wines ofthe world . And Julllen,
rightly, p uts their white wines in the same
class The town of Tal n·l'Herm1tage,
squeezed on to the narrow riverbank at the
foot of the hill of Hermitage, was known as
Te gna in Roman times, and its wines were
celebrated by both the sc1ent1st Pliny and
the poet Martial
The Rhone 1s France's main north-south
artery, directing its ac companying roads
and rai l way, which snake under the narrow
terraces of vines and make the hill's
magnificent stance above Tam fa miliar
to millions.
The slopes of Hermitage, uniquely in the
northern Rhone, are on the river's left, or
east, ban k Facing from west to due south,
they are well protected from the cold north
winds. This granite outcrop was once an
extension of the Massif Central, until the river
burrowed a course around its western rather
than eastern flank The resulting escarpment,
1,150t't: (350m) high, though not as precipitous
as COte-ROtle, is steep enough 1n parts to
demand terracing. Certain ly, 1t 1s steep
enough for mechanization to have been
outlawed and make repairing the ravages of
erosion a back-breaking annual task. The
topsoil that slides down the hill after heavy
storms 1s made up largely of decomposed flint
and limestone. At the eastern end are glacial
deposits from the Alps.
A patchwork of terrolr•
Although fo r the red wines of Hermitage
nothing but Syrah 1s planted, each c/1mat Is
subtly different in terms of soil type,
exposition, and elevation, with some
beneftting from the shelter provided by a
natural amph itheatre. In 1816, Julllen fe lt
conftdent in hati ng Hermitage's climats in
order ofmerit: M eal, Grefieux, Beaume,
Raucoule, Muret , Guo1gnlere, Bessas,
Motorists m<zy be more fa miliar with the
suspension bridge fr om To urnon to Ta in than
they would like - traffic can slow to a snail's
pace. But at least there 1s a stunning vie w of
the hill ofHermitage.
.,
Burges, and Lauds. Spellings have changed,
bl.It the climats remain and, although
Hermitage is typically, and possibly ideal ly,
a blend from several different cltmats, their
names have been seen on an increasing
proportion of wine labels as the urge to
get to grips with individual vineyard
characteristics has taken hold of both
producers and consumers
In general, the lightest, most aromatic
red wines come from the higher cl1mats
Beaume and L' Hermite, beside the little
chapel on top of the hill that gives its name
to Jaboulet's fa mous flagship, La Chapelle.
Relatively fleshy wines come from Peleat
Les Greffieux, in which Chapout1er has the
largest holding, makes elegant, aromatic,
silky wi nes, while Le Meal can produce
extremely dense, powerful wines. The
particularly granitic cl1m a t: of Bessards,
turned south-southwest at Its western end,
tends to produce the most tannlc and
lon1est·llved wines that can provide
structure to a blend.
The adjective "manly" has stuck to
Herm itage ever since 1t was first applied to
it by the English scholar and oenophile
Professor George Samtsbury in the 19205
Indeed, 1t was as well know n for boosting

Hermitage NORTHERN RHONE • ""ANCI
taa
.
v..,
,,.
�partement boundary
leM41
1
Noted chmat/vmeyard
- Hermitage
Crozes- Hermitage
•
;;,
Woods
..
Contour interval
CL
Ic:
f R,J1llon •0 �
10 metres
Valence
1 35,00
0
KmO
Milo
o
O
1Milo
anaemic Bordeaux as for its unique style. It
can be almost like port without the added
brandy. Like vintage port, Hermitage throws
heavy sediment m, often onto, the bottle,
s o it needs dec anting. To p vintages improve
ICr many years until their scent and flavour
are heady, inspiring - almost overwhelmm g.
oung Hermitage of a good vintage 1s as
closed and tan rnc as any yo ung great red, but
nothing can restrain its abounding perfume
llfl.d the fistfuls of fru1t that seem to have
been crammed into the glass. As 1t ages, the
Immediacy of its impact does not d1m1rnsh,
but its youthful assau lt gives way to the
sheer splendour of its mature presence You
cou ld not drink 1t and fa il to be impressed.
Limited prod uction
Unhke the appellations of Condrieu and
Cote- Rot1e lying to the north, Hermitage has
been 1n fas hion for so long that virtually all of
the avai lable land has been planted; there 1s no
more room for vines - or for new producers.
The appellation is dominated by a mere five
ofthem: Domame Jean-Louis Chave (based
across the river m Mauves, JUSt south of
Tat n's twin town, To urnon) and the much
larger merchant houses of Chapoutier, Pau l
Jaboulet Aine, and Delas, together with the
powerful and energetic local co-op, the Cave
de Ta in - whose members own more than
69 acres (28 ha) of Hermitage's vineyard.
The Hermitage hill was h1stor1cally al most
as fam ous for its long-lived white wine, made
from Roussanne and, mainly, Marsanne
grapes. For Julhen 1t ran ked with Montrachet
as one of France's greatest . Even today 1t
ac
co
unts for about a quarter of the
Hermitage vines. Jullien named "Raucoule"
as the best vineyard fo r white Hermitage; its
wme 1s still known for its aroma
White Hermitage can continue to evolve
gloriously for decades. It starts life dense,
stony, slightly honeyed but relatively d u mb:
a brooding presence (though much fresher
today than in the past) that slowly gives way
to glorious nuttiness. Chapoutier's and
Jean -Louis Chave's are particularly fine
There 1s a general tendency (as with the
reds) to produce microcuvees, often from
2Km
l('
SI Esievoj
ind1v1dual cltmats, such as L' Erm1te and Le
Meal from Chapout1er, Ex-Voto from Gu1gal,
Le Reverdy from Ferraton, and Marc
Sorrel's Les Rocoules.
And there is still a trickle of the legendary,
extraordmar1ly long- lived sweet vin de pat/le,
made m tiny quantities m very ripe years
from grapes that are traditionally shrivelled
on straw (pail/el mats. Gerard Chave
resurrected this ancient, possibly Roman,
speciality in the 1970s. The Cave de Tain now
makes an excellent version at a more
affordable price.
A nose for Crozes
Crozes, the village rou nd the back of the hill,
gives its name to Hermitage's shadow, an
appellation producing much more
approachable wmes from an area that extends
almost 10 miles (16km) both north and south
ofTam and Hermitage itself. Only a fract ion
of the appellation is mapped here. By 2017,
almost 4,200 acres (1,700ha) ofvmes had been
planted among the local cherry and apricot
orchards. Unlike Hermitage, land m Crozes­
Herm1tage 1s relatively affordable and avai lable
- an opportunity for enthus1ast1c newcomers,
JOmed by an increasing number of local
growers who want to bottle the fr uit oftheir
own labours, rather than send 1t to the Cave
Le Meal, Bessards, and /'Hermite, on the
southwestern flank of the granite mound of
Hermitage are the three key elements in a
top-quality blend The chapel in /'Hermite
fe atures in the name of Jaboulet's top wine.
de Tam co- op, which 1s still responsible for
about 40% of the appellation. In general, the
rocky loess soils north of the village produce
lively red-fruited wines whereas rou nder,
softer black-fruited reds are grown to its
south That said, the landmark Crozes, the
1990 vintage of Paul Jaboulet Aine's Domame
de Thalabert, was made m one of the
appellation's most successful areas Just north
of Beau mont-Monteux (see p.129, 03) and is
still go ing strong 30 years later - comparable
with a H ermitage. A little wh ite Crozes­
Herm1tage 1s also made by, among others,
Gra1 l lot and Jaboulet.
Crozes m the past could be pal lid, but today
we can choose from two basic styles - one fu ll
ofyouthful, supple fr uit for early drinking, and
the other, more serious, savoury botthngs
that can be kept for up to 10 years. The
better growers, such as Belle, Fayolle, Alain
GraHlot, Domame du Colombier, Domaine
Pochon, and Domai ne Marc Sorrel led the way,
but new merchants such as Tard 1eu-Laurent
are also worth following, as 1s the Cave de
Tam Domames Les Bruyeres, Yann Chave,
Comb1er, Emmanuel Darnaud, des Entrefaux,
des L1ses, des Rem1zieres, and Gilles Robin
are also producing Crozes-Hermitage - and
some ofthem Hermitage itself - that is
increasi ngly to be reckoned with.
•I•
0
T
'
T

•
I
•
c
c
o
'
'f
134
FRANCE
Southern
RhOne
This region is renowned for warming,
ripely welcoming, and rarely expensive
wines of all three colours, but mostly red.
Te rroir Sand, limestone, clay, alluvial soils,
and galets (giant pebbles).
Climate Mediterranean - ever hotter
and drier, with regular strong winds from
the northwest, the notorious mistral.
Grapes R: Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvedre;
W: Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Clairette
The fu nnel end of the Rhone Valley, where it
releases its traffic to the Med ite rranean, has
a place in every traveller's affections History
and natural history combine to make 1t one
of the richest regions of France for interests
of every kind. Who cannot picture the vast
engineering of the Romans, lizards alert
on its slumbering sto nes, plots of early
vegetables screened from the mistral, the
pines and almonds yielding to olive groves
1n the far south - and always, on h1lls1de or
plain, sand or clay, the cross-stitch of vi nes?
The bas ic appellation here 1s C6tes du
Rh6ne, a general one for the red, wh ite, or
rose ofthe Rhone Valleythat encom passes a
total of74,600 acres (30,200 ha) of vineyards.
Within this there 1s, of course, wide var1at1on
ofqual ity and style. Sandy soils are mixed up
with ex -al pine limestone or Mediterranean
al luvial, and suntraps with cooler corners
Some C6tes du Rhone 1s extremely ordinary,
but even this portmanteau ap pellation has
its treas ures, often but not always the junior
wines ofprod ucers in senior appellations,
such as Chateau de Fonsalette from the
same stable as the fa mou s Chateau Rayas.
Grenache Noir is the dominant grape of the
southern Rhone, but 1t 1s usually blended; its
most usual, but by no means only, partners
are Syrah and the late - ripening Mourvedre.
White and rose wines ac count for 6% and 7%
of production, respectively.
The 22,700 acre (9,200 ha) C6tes du
Rh6ne-Villages appellation is a very distinct
step up, and one that can offer some of
France's best val ue Of the 95 communes
eligible for the -VIiiages suffix, all ofthem
in the south, the 21 best have the right
to append their names to the al ready
cumbersome moniker C6tes du Rh6ne­
V1llages. These fa vou red villages are marked
in magenta on this map and on pp 136-37
Those opposite that have established a
reputation include Valreas, V1san, and, on
the right ban k ofthe Rhone, Chusclan,
which with nearby Laudun, makes fine roses
as well as reds.
The northernmost appellation in the
southern Rhone 1s G rignan- les-Adhemar,
once known as Coteaux du Tr1casti n . The
parched mistral - swept landscape here is
arguably better known for its truffles than
its spicy, compact reds and 1mprov1ng
whites. Mourvedre wi ll not ripen so far
from the Mediterranean, so 1t 1s Cinsault
that bolsters the fruity G renache, along
with stiffening Syrah (which does weU in
the higher vineyards). Organic pioneer
Domaine Gramenon was one producer who
proved that its particularly pure wines made
carefully here can be aged for longer than
the usual two or three years.
The white-topped cone of Mont Ventoux,
to which cyclists are attracted like moths
to a flame, can be seen from much ofthe
southern Rhone. The scattered Ventoux
appellation (with 14,350 acres/5,810ha)
reflects higher elevations and much cooler
nights than most Cotes du Rhone, which
usefully extends the growing season.
On the west-fac ing slopes ofthe
giant amphitheatre southwest of
Mont Ventoux prod ucers such as
Fo ndreche, Pe squ1e, and Domaine
du Tix make the most ofthe cool
night air that sweeps down from
the mountain, to make serious,
long- lived wines of all three
colours . Syrah 1s a better bet
here than in the southern
Rhone's warmer appellations
The ubiquitous Vieille Ferme
brand from the Perrins of
Chateau de Beaucastel in
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1s based
on Ventoux wines. Vineyard land
here is cheaper than in the
most sought- after terrai ns in
the Languedoc to the west
Further south, Just north of the
River Durance, 1s the fas hionable
holiday region of the Luberon
The landscape can sometimes
seem to have more
personality than the produce
ofits 8,400 acres (3,400ha)
ofvineyard s, but Rolle/
Ve rmentino whites can be
stylish and the reds have
been lightening up.
On the right bank of
the Rhone, the COtes du
Vivarais, dominated by
the Cave de Ruoms, 1s
almost invariably like
fe atherweight C6tes du
Rhone, thanks to conditions
that are exceptionally cool for
this torrid part of France.
The Domai ne Gallety's wines are
the exceptions that prove the rule.
The bare limeatone peak ofMont Ve ntoux
towers above a vineyard and olive grove in
early spring. Once temperaturea reach about
50"F (10°C), the gnarled old vines wif
f
show slQ�
ofgreen as the dormant buds start to de velop.

loBegUJde b•Poi!Law!
Morenc
QD1evleht
l�ac
SOUTHERN RHONE • , .. ANCI
1-'0
0
,IJO
O
Dt!l)lrtement boundary
Mon t1ou x
0 Roche St Secret
Boconne
aulignon
31
1
"'"
Y
10"'"
Mi
lo
o
O
T.
.
----- ..
.
�
-
Mt
-'
lo
o
i:
::
::=i
B11u1m1
1-d
e-Ven1se
e �t,�"""
11ilou' cl It
- Calranne
- Chtteauneuf-du- Pape
- Clllret
te
de Belleprde
- Cost16res de Ntmes
COtes du RhOne-Vlllqes
COies du V1varals
- Duche d'Uz6s
- Glgondas
- Gniinan-les-Adhemar
-
Ltrac
c=
=J
Luberon
- Muscat de
Beaumes-de-Venlse
- Rasteau
- Tavel
- Vacqueyras
- Ventoux
- Vtnsobres
• Vlsan Named COies du RhOne-
Vtlla&es commune
•DOM
Notable producer
SJ'B.AN
NI!
"
Weather slalton (WS)
� Area mapped at larger scale
on page shown
Lacoste o
c!' Qt I.A C.'-\ORGrE
Bonnieux
Montag ne du
uberon
This Is notjust wine country. It is holiday country par excellence,
the gateway to Provence. The hills of the Luberon are dotted with
luxurious second homes and glamorous, artfully rustic small hotels,
many inspired by A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle, who moved to
Menerbes in 1987 andpublished the bestseller two years later.
There is no particular rationale to the location ofMichel Ta rdieu's winery,
for he selects fr uit the length and breadth of the Rh6ne Valley (north as well
as south) and produces an outstanding collection of wines fr om it.
Much hotter and m ore Mediterranean
influenced are the vineyards ofthe 1 0,330-
acre (4,180- ha) Costlerea de Nimes north
ofthe Camargue, now rightly considered a
westward extension of the Rh6ne rather
than part ofthe Langued oc. These are
ro bust, s un-swept wines of interest,
partic ularly the juicy expressions of
Grenache No1r grown on Chateauneuf-like
giant pebbles, and Roussanne wh ites.
Duche d'Uzes, northwest of Nimes, has
more vi neyard (783 acres/317ha) than the
Cotes du Vivara1s It Is considered part of
the greater southern Rhone since 1t depends
on the same array ofgrape var1et 1es, even
1fwh1tes and roses are proportionately more
important than in most other southern
Rheine appellations.
RHONE: AV IG 0
Lat i t ude / Elevation of WS
43. 91° / 112ft (34m)
vc rage grow ing season temperature at WS
67.4° F (19.7°C)
A erage annual rainfall at WS
26,6in (677 mm)
Hnrvc; t month ra infall at WS
Septe mber: 4.6in (117mm)
Pnncip,il vilicultural hazards
Drought, poor fru t set for Grenache
111
I
c
c
o
0
T
'
T

•
•
•
c
c
0
D
T
E
f
136
FRANCE • SO UTHERN RHONE
The Heart of the Southern Rhone
Around Chl.teauneuf-du-Pape (mapped
In detail overl-f) lies a cluster of villages
with their own sweet, spicy story to tell,
related by a swelling band of ambitious
producers. Just as in Chateau neuf, the vines
are baked in summer by the Proveni,al sun,
serenaded by drowsy cicadas, and scented
by the herby garrigue that surrounds
the vineyards.
The dominant grape for red wi nes 1s the
versatile Grenache, supplemented by Syrah
in cooler, higher terrains and Mourvedre
in some of the warmer ones Smal l but
increasing amou nts of characterful, fu ll­
bod ied white wine 1s made from grapes such
as Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc,
Roussanne, Marsan ne, and Viognier
There 1s a clear path for promotion for
the wine villages ofthe southern Rhone,
with the appellation Cotes du Rhone as
the starting point The named Cotes du
Rhone-Villages communes, marked in
magenta and mainly in the north ofthe
map, are a disti nct step up. Once their
wines have established a reputation, they
can apply to have the name of the1r village
appended to Cotes du Rhone-Villages on
the label Thereafter, they may progress
to having their own appellation, which the
locals term cru
Gigondas was the first to win its own
appellation back in 1971, and the qual ity
of its tight-knit reds can rival that of
Chateauneuf-du-Pape itself The late­
r1pening vineyards extend from the plain
east ofthe River Ouveze up to, and in some
cases embedded in, the spectacular iagged
limestone landmark of the Dentelles de
Montmira1I, which dominates the pretty
hillside village of Gigondas. Thanks to
elevation, and more calcareous soils,
G1gondas tends to be more aromatic and
often rather fr esher wine than Chateau neuf.
But wi nemak1ng techniques are JUSt as
varied as th roughout the southern Rhone
Ambitious producers such as Domai ne
Santa Due and Ch!teau de St -Cosme have
been refi ning their technique so that their
wines can be almost burgundian, while
traditionalists such as Domaine Raspa1 l -Ay
and St-Gayan make sumptuous wines of
great depth and prolonged flavour, capable
of living over 25 years In the best vi ntages
The current trend to vinify each plot
separately according to Its req uirements
is relatively advanced in Gigondas and
some producers bottle a range of cuvees .
A f11rtat1on with Syrah is on the wane and
all-Grenac he wines have been allowed
since 200Q A small amount of G 1gonda1
11 made deliberately u a rose, and Clairette
11•
1s the pale grape ofchoice locally - possibly
a candidate for a fu ture white G1gondas?
Vacqueyras earned its own appellation
in 1990 and, with its earlier- r i pening sandy
and stony terrai n, can be headier, more
1mmed1ate, and a little more rustic than
G1go ndas . Top -quality domain.es are much
thinner on the ground than up the hill in
G1gondas, though many prod ucers make
wi nes in both appellations. New oak 1s a
rarity here; the fr uit, mainly Grenache
(which tends to react bad ly to new
barr1ques) with some Syrah, speaks for
itself. Vacqueyras can offer the spice and
herbs of the southern Rhone at a fa ir price
and 1s so far the only appellation on the left
ban k of the Rhone that may be applied to
wi nes of all three colours, including some
fine, smoky, fu ll- bodied dry white based
on Grenac he Blanc.
Beaumes-de-Venise, with its potent reds
from some Jurassic clay, gai ned AOC
status for its reds in 2004, having been
entitled since 1945 to its own appellation
for its strong, sweet, aromatic Muscat Vin
Doux Natu re !, a local speciality that recal ls
the Muscats ofthe Languedoc. In similar
fa shion, Rasteau already had AOC status
for its rather rustic strong, sweet red V1ns
Doux Naturals when in 2009 it, along with
neighbouring Vinsobres (to the north of
the mapped area; see p.135), won its own
appellation for its dry wines . The wines of
Rasteau can lack soph1st1cat1on, but the
likes of Gourt de Mautens (now operating
outside the AOC thanks to owner Jerome
Bressy's devotion to ancient local var1et1es
excluded from the regu lations) have won a
loyal followi ng
The vineyards of Vinsobres, some as
high as 1,300 ft (400m) above sea level,
are, exceptionally, suitable for Syrah .
The Perrins of Chateau de Beaucastel
make two successful Vinsobres - Les
Cornuds and Les Hauts de Julien. Cairanne
1s one of the most exciting wine villages of
the southern Rhone, its red s and whites in
the hands of vignerons as accomplished
as the Alary fa mily, the Brusset fa mily, and
Marcel Richaud
Rose is the h1stor1c special ity of Tavel
and Lirac across the Rhone from
Ch!teau neuf For long, Tavel was France's
most powerful d ark- pink wi ne, a fiery and
worthy partner fo r the strong flavours of
many Mediterranean dishes But this
century there has been a certain dalliance
with a more Proven�al style and some
lighter, paler, fr esher, less traditional wine
has been emerging from many do mames.
Llrac, fo rmerly also best known for rose,
can be better val ue. With lower permitted
yields, 1t inclines m o re today to softly fr uity
reds less dominated by Grenache than
Tavel. Several well- known Chateauneuf-d u­
Pape estates own vineyards in Lirac, which
has encouraged quality in recent years.
Its food-friendly whites are enlivened by a
minimum of one-third Cla1 rette grapes.
Departement boundary
Canton boundary
Commune (parish) boundary
• � Notable producer
Sable!
Named Cotes du Rhone-VIiiages
commune
Appellation boundary
C=:J Vineyards
C=:J Woods
- 1 00 - Contour intervals·
below 120 metres every 20 metres
above 120 metres every 40 metres
c:filJ Area mapped at larger scale
on page shown

Of the C6tes du Rh6ne-Vil/ages communes
mapped here that are yet to gain AOC status,
Sablet and Seguret mature relatively fa st,
while the robust, powerful Plan de Dieu can
need two or three years' ageing.
Ta ve/, with Its rather heavy pink wine, has
seemed rather dated but, as with so many Fr ench
appellations, there Is an idiosyncratic cult producer
here, Domaine /'Ang/ore, darling ofParis wine bars.
The Heart of the Southern R h6ne SOUTHERN RHONE · , .. ANCI
137
•I
Va 1""1
I 125,00
0
KmO
A
5Km
t-
-
�--'�..
.-
--��..
..
.
..
..
�--�"T"
Molo
o
O
3Ml
lo
o
I•

138
FRANCE · SOUTHERN RHONE
Chi.teau neuf-du-Pape
Ch&teauneuf-du-Pape the place Is no more
than a stony village in arid, aromatic
Proven�I countryside, dominated by a
ruined papal summer palace. The wine that
bears its 1mposmg name, though, is the
proud standard-bearer for the dynamic
southern Rhone, making France's most
potent, and some of 1ts most md1v1dualist1c,
wines - both red and white
Chateauneuf-du-Pape has always had the
distinction of having the highest minimum
strength ofany French wine. 1 2.5% alcohol
But m this era of global warmmg, its wines,
based substantially on Grenache that
demands real ripeness, are rarely less than
14.5% and occasionally reach 16%, presenting
a challenge to growers, winemakers - and
wme drinkers. The region 1s also the
birthplace ofFrance's Appellations d'Or1gme
Contr0lees CAOCs). In 1923, its most fa mous
grower, Baron Le Roy ofChateau Fort1a,
delimited the land arid enough to support
both lave nder and thyme, thereby laying the
foundation stones for the entire AOC system
Well over 90% of Chateauneuf-du- Pape 1s
red, but 1s huge ly variable in style Most is
easy to hke, being spicy, rich, and strong.
Big companies and co-operatives may blend
a light1sh, sweetish version for early drmkmg,
but Chateau neuftoday is much more likely to
be the prod uce of an ambitious, fam ily-owned
estate making highly ind1v1dual, ageworthy
wines that express their particular combination
ofterro1rs and grape varieties. Chateauneuf­
du- Pape 1s unusual in its cocktail of as many as
18 permitted var1et1es (once 13, but different
colours of the same grape are now considered
as separate varieties).
Grenache, the backbone of the AOC, is often
blended with Mourvedre and Syrah, together
with some C1nsault, Couno1se (a local
special ity), and small amounts of Vaccarese,
Muscardin, P1cpoul Noir, and Te rret No1r,
and the hght-skmned Cla1 rette Blanche,
Bourboulenc, Roussanne (which 1s much
easier to grow m the southern than the
northern Rhone), and the neutral P1 cardan.
Chateau de Beaucastel and Clos des Papes,
unusually, persist with virtually iill 1 3. The
other five listed m the AOC regu lations are
Cla1rette Rose and both white and pmk forms
of Grenache and P1cpou l .
With the trend to warmer summers, a
fl i rtation with Syrah, which can lack freshness
this far south, has been widely replaced by
an increasing affection for the late-ripening
Mourvedre. Its inclusion m a blend can help
rem m the alcoholic excesses of Grenache in
hot years. Red wines here are often tough in
yo uth, thanks tothe dry summers, but can
age to sumptuous, sometimes gamey, depths
of flavour A perhaps surprising number
develop considerable finesse. The best of
the much rarer whites, all ofthem succulent
1n the first few years, can develop even more
exotic scents when fu lly mature at 10 to 15
years, after an often sulky middle age. Many
producers use heavy, burgundy-shaped
bottles, their shoulders embossed according
to which ofseveral rival producers'
assoc1at1ons they belong to.
Sand, clay, and stones
The Chateau neuf-du-Pape cl1che 1s the galet,
the ro unded, heat-absorbing sto ne found
almost exclusively m some ofits vineyards,
but in real ity soi ls w1thm this relatively small
area are extremely varied. The fa mous
vineyards of arch-trad1t1onahst Chateau
The fa mous galets of Chdteauneuf-du -Pape are
by no means ubiquitous in this rema rkably
heterogeneous southern zone And heat
retention 1s not the boon It once was.
Rayas, for instance, situated on the plateau
behind Chateau de Vaud1eu, have hardly any
galets but instead a high proportion of sand,
m the best plot, and clay with chipped ston-.
elsewhere The map opposite shows with
unparal leled prec1s1on exactly which soil tyP&
predominates where m Chateauneuf.
Many producers own parcels of vmes m
several different soil types, typically blending
them mto one cuvee, but more and more or
them are also bottling one or even several
prem1um- pr1ced special cuvees which may
showcase one particular terroir, or may be
made from the producer's oldest vines, or a
single grape variety Other variables include
the amount of new wood (no great friend of
Grenache) used, size and material ofcask,
and the precise proportions of the different
grape varieties in the blend.
The soils of Chlteauneuf-du-Pape
Thin soils on bedrock
C:=J Hard Cretaceous limestone
Thin soils on sll&htly weathered rock
Cretaceous limestone modified by ploughing
c:=
=i
Miocene sandstone and molasse
lm11
11tU
re soils on valley alluvium
Coarsely fragmented sandy clay
Finely fragmented sandy clay
- sandy clay with many pebbles
Slopes covered by immature soils
- Unrefined scree nch in Cretaceous
limestone fragments
Colluv1um (fine scree) nch 1n sand on
Miocene molasse
Colluv1um nch 1n sand and clay from
the valley floor
Brown soils (moderately w11t1
1
1redJ rich in limestone
Clay soil on Cretaceous marl
sandy soil on Miocene molasse
Soils rich In lim1ston1
on ancient gravelly alluvium
c:
::=J
on ancient alluvium and modified
molasslc sand
Rid, Iron -rich IOllS from th• fllllelU
-
-
Red soil on ancient gravelly alluvium
Red and limestone soils on
Cretaceous limestone
Deep-red soil on ancient alluvium
and quartzite pebbles (aaletsl
Clay-rich 1alls from 11
1
1 valley ffoor
Thin. fin ·t .xtured 111 clay and fine ..and)
Thick. fine- and medium textured 'l
l!
ll
(c1ay. sand. small pebbles)
Appellal1on l0unda1y
-
c "Tlr"une (μan :ii bou11darv

1 37,00
0
N
05
1Km
THE VAR IETY OF
CHATEAU NEUF·DU·PAPE
The most fam ous terro1r is the plateau of
La Crau, to the east of the village and arou nd Vieux
Telegraphe, with its distinctive huge pebbles (ga/ets)
but, more importantly, moist clay underneath . Wine
grown on the predominantly north-fac ing vineyards
north of Mont·Redon tends to be more reserved
and elegant with smoother tannins than those of
wines grown on the hotter sites, which can be very
concentrat ed, potent, and tough when young. In the
northeast around Courthezon pebble• alternate with
sand and yield particularly heady wines Blends can
br1lhantly combine these styles.
I•
05Molo
\
I Plgnant
la Gulgasse
Plgnan
Chlteau neuf du Pape SOUTHERN RHONE • "ltANCE
1'9
Thi• /lttl• patch ofoutlying •andy aoll waa
eventually given AOC Chdteauneufatatu•
becau•• It so exactly match•• that
surroundmg Chdteau Rayas.
..
..
\
la Crau
\
Mont Pertuls
la Crau
Sud
Tr
•
..
,,
..
.•
la Font
du Loup
Thi• aaltwater
wetland Is now a
nature reserve
and would not be
suitable for wine
les
Saummades
•
Sud
: ��EM LOUP
__
_
__,.
._-
-
-
----- -
'I
laCrau Est
la Pet11e
Crau
Duvet Duvet Est
Quest
R�velrores
Ouest
L
•ABED ON AN OltlelMAL SOIL MAP' CREATED
•'I'THKPl
l
DllllATION DU ..,_CATS DE
..ltODUCTKU..
.
DIEcf
fA
TllAUNSUF•DU•..A..K.
LOUIS
c
"
B
E
E
'
F
o

A
•
•
7
140
FRANCE
Western Langu edoc
The Languedoc offe rs wine lovers a
rich variety of typically French terroirs,
small domaines, reliable ripening, and
undiscovered bargains.
Te rroir Between the rocky clay, hard
limestone, and thin soils over rock with some
schist in the foothills of the Montagne Noire
in the north and the Corbieres hills are stony
terraces of limestone, marl, sandstone, and,
especially in St-Chinian and Faugeres (see
p.142), some more schist with alluvial gravels.
Climate Mostly definitively Mediterranean
with hot, dry summers but with some fresh
Atlantic infl uence in the far west.
Grape varieties R: Syrah, Mourvedre,
Grenache (particularly in the east),
Carignan; W: Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc,
Clai rette, Maccabeu, Marsanne, Roussanne,
Ve rmentino, Piquepoul. But everything is
being tried.
Over the last half-century the Languedoc
has changed more than any other French
wine region . It has moved on from growing
vast amou nts of plonk. once usefully cheap
but then so embarrassingly surplus to
requirements that fa rmers were bribed to pull
up poorly sited vineyards. More promising,
often hillside, land has been affordable enough
to attract amb1t1ous incomers, who have been
playing with the range ofterro1rs and
permitted (and sometimes forbidden) grape
varieties to exc1t1ng effect . The fl atlands, 1f
managed well, can prod uce inexpensive
varietals labelled IGP Pays d'Oc . The producer
names on the map are the ones to seek out
Of the three most important appellations of
the western Languedoc, Mlnervols 1s sl ightly
more civilized, more polished. The terrain 1s
not quite so rugged as that ofSt-Chirnan or
Corb1eres, although at its northern limit
where vineyards push up into the footh ills of
the dominating Montagne Noire, their hold on
the rocky, garrigue-covered foothills ofthe
Cevennes looks every bit as precarious as
that of the gnarled Corbieres vines on what
are effect ively the foothills of the Pyrenees.
Clinging above the village of Mi nerve are some
ofthe appellation's highest, latest· ripening
vineyards. Thosearound La Livirnere produce
so many wines that seem to combine the
rugged scents of the high vineyards with the
suppleness of lower-elevation wines that
Mlnervols·La Llvlni.r. 11 regarded as a
separate entity Revision 1s in the air. There is
tal k of sub-appellations for the communes
around Laure - M1nervo11 and a rocky area
surrounding Cazellea in the far northeast
More than 85% of all Mmervo1s 1s red, the
best ofwhich is serious and lusc ious. Another
10% 1s rose, based on various com binations
ofSyrah, Mourvedre, and Grenache, with
a declining proportion ofCarignan. The
neighbouring zone of Muscat de St-Jean de
Minervois makes a sweet , aromatic Vin Doux
Nature! (see p.144)
To the immediate east 1s St·Chinian, with
one of the most disti nctive reputations
for Languedoc wines of all three colours,
especially from the crag
gy
schists ofthe north
and west ofthe appellation, at elevations often
well above 1,970ft (600 m) m spectacularly
mountai nous cou ntry. There are fine wh ites,
Carignan- marked reds from St-Chi rnan­
Berlou, and St-Ch1rnan- Roquebrun reds
more heavily infl uenced by Rhone varieties,
particularly sharply etched Syrah, also grown
on schist Vines grown at lower elevations on
the unusual purple clay and limestone soi ls
around the village of St-Chinian itselftend to
be softer and more supple.
The Corbieres landscape 1s just as dramatic:
a geological chaos of mountai n and val ley
reaching from the sea 40 miles (64 km) back
mto the Aude departement with vines
regularly tested by the fierce tramontane
wind blowing down the Aude Valley and ove r
its western hills.
Made from a similar southern cocktai l
of grape var1et1es as Minervo 1s, but with
Carignan and Grenache a litt le more
common, red Corb1eres tastes less tamed
and more concentrated : ofte n rather
tougher m youth but of increasmg interest.
Drought and summer fires are constant
threats m many parts of the varied Corb1eres
appellation. The low, barren, sandstone hills
around Boutenac have earned their own
sub-appellation in the n orthern Corb1eres.
Some oftheir l ow-yield i ng Carignan vines
are more than 100 years old
The ancient white grape Bourboulenc comes
into its own on La Clape, a strange coastal
outpost of the Languedoc.Th1s eccentric
limestone massif south of Narbonne, which
1n Roman times was an island, gamed its own
AOC m 2015. The whites can be memorably
marine-, not to say, iodine-scented, while the
harsh, arid, exceptionally windy terrai n also
prod uces reds with real character.
Fltou, granted the Languedoc's first
appellation m 1948 and trad1t1onally a source
of R1vesaltes V1ns Doux Naturals, consists of
two distinct enclaves within Corbieres. Fltou
Maritime, a clay- limestone band around the
saltwater lagoons on the coast; and F1tou
Haut, a patch of mountai nous schist 15 or so
miles (24km) inland, separated by a great
wedge of Corb1eres. For much of the 1980s
I•
WESTERN LANGUEDOC'S
WINE REGIONS
This map, on which only the land deemed
promising enough to grow AOC wine
is highlighted, reveals vividly the
shortcomings ofthe plain around
Beziers, which used to be
effectively a cheap wine and
alcohol fac tory but Is now much
more sparsely planted with
vines, thanks to financial
encourage ment from
the EU authorities.
See the France map
on p.63 for the
location of
the various
Languedoc
and
Roussillon
IGPs .
CAVE
la Bezole0
and 1990s, F1tou lagged behind its northern
neighbours, but today several producers
such as Domames Bertrand-Berge and Maria
Fita and the innovative Domame Jones are
giving the dominant co-operative Mont
Tauch a run for its money. Old Carignan and
Grenache play major ro les.
Atlantic Influence
The extent of the cooling At lantic influence
here 1s most graphical ly seen m the west rn
hills south of Carcassonne, wher Limoux
long ago established at least a nat1 m I
reputation for its fine traditional method

1'1J700
0
KmO
10Km
,.s
1----- ---..
!
-
M<_,.
.
..
.
.
fizz, whether Blanquette de L1moux, based on
the original Mauzac grape, or the more
delicate Cremant de Limoux made from
Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Pinot N oir. Still
white L1moux is oak-fe rmented (the only AOC
white for which oak 1s mandatory), obviously
raised in a much cooler environment than
expected this far south, and based on
Chardonn2'Y The relatively recent red L1moux
appellation 1s fo r oaked blends, of which
Merlot must constitute half; the rest may be
drawn from the other Bordeaux grapes and
Grenache and Syrah, although surely Pinot
No1r should be added, for these green hills
PYRENEES·
ORIENTALES
with their view of the Pyrenees are clearly
the Languedoc's most promising spot for
Pinot, currently sold as IGP
The wines have much finer ac idity than
those made in the warmer eastern
Languedoc (described ove rleaf), as do
those of Malep•re to the 1mmed1ate north,
Malepere wines, never blockbusters, are
dominated by Merlot and Malbec (or Cot)
Just north of Carcassonne, Cabard•• 1s
the only appellation in which Mediterranean
and Atlantic (Bordeaux) grapes are
mandator1ly combined. The increasingly
well-made wines reflect this.
WESTERN LANGUEDOC • l'RANCI
141
�
0
"'
son o�
..
.._
q,
'
(jo
•DOM
)ONf.S
-
-
c=J
Departement boundary
Notable producer
Cabard�
Minervo1s
M1nervo1s-L.a Liv1mere
.Mar......
+
(N
- Muscat de St-Jean de Minervo1s
c=:J St Ch1man
BERLOI St-Ch1man sub-appellation
L.anguedoc
- Malepere
L1moux
- Corblt'!res
c:
::
:J
Corbieres-Boutenac
- l.aClape
- Corb1eres and La Clape
- F1tou
c:
::J
R1vesaltes
T
Weather station (WS)
LANGUEDOC: BEZIERS
Latitude / Elevation of W
43.32° / 49n (15mJ
ve ragc growing sea on temperature at W
66.7 °F (19.3 °C)
Average annual rainfall at W
22.Bin (579mm)
lla rvcsl month rainfall at W
September: 2 .Bln (70 mm)
Princ ipal ' 1t1 ultur.1 1 hara rd;
Drought
,.
D
y

•
i
B
c
142
FRANCE
Easte rn Langu edoc
be made by strong characters, too Co-ops
are much less important in Fauge res than in
most Languedoc appellations, and many of
the individual producers ar-e fa rming
organically or b1odynam1cally.
The eastern half of the Languedoc Is even
warmer and drier than the western
Languedoc mapped on the previous pages .
Apart from a handful of i nd1v1dual, relatively
h1stor1c appellations, 1t 1s dominated by the
overarching regional Languedoc appellation.
Marked 1n mauve on the map, it was created
in 2007 for wines from anywhere in this
great sweep ofvineyards from the Spanish
border to Nimes, provided they obey the
rules, particularly the rec ipe for grape
var1et1es {the most discussed rule of all)
Of the vast production ofthe Languedoc,
almost 80% 1s red, and mainly blends with
Syrah, Mourvedre, and Grenache dominate
Carignan (often vinified by carbonic
maceration in an effort to soften 1t) and
Cinsault are common auxiliary
ingredients in the mix Today, an
increasing number of these
wines can hold their own
c
Pu �"'°"
DOMD&'IQIJ!MINSI 1m.w"'
DOMI.ICROIXBlI.II
1 315,00
0
KM
Y
1p
15Km
Milo
o
O___ _____.____ ..
..
..,
IO
Ml
lo
o
with much more fa mous French wines. And
Languedoc winemakers have learned how to
make sophisticated white wi nes, too, in the
form ofintriguing blends ofsuch grapes as
Grenache Blanc, Cla1rette, Bourboulenc,
P1cpoul, Roussanne, Marsanne, Vermentino
(also known as Rolle), and V1o�nier
Faugeres, in the extreme west ofthe
area mapped, has such d1stinct1ve schists,
intermi ngled with sand and limestone,
that 1t earned its own appellation - for
red, rose, and now white - back in 1982.
The soils are so meagre here, at elevations
ofabout 1,150ft (350m), that yields are
almost uneconomically low, but the wines
are re liably ofstrong character, and tend to
uL
Some of the older appellations, such as the
three for sweet Muscat Vins Ooux Naturels
close to the coast, tend to be mainly of
h1stor1c interest, but one more recent coastal
appellation, for the dry whites of Plcpoul de
Pinet, has been been basking 1n the spotlight
of fa shion P1cpoul, or P1quepoul, is an old
southern French variety whose pale-skinned
version seems to thrive in sandy soilsjust
inland of the lagoon dominated by the old wine
port of Sete. This lemon-scented
varietal has become the
single most
Cournonterral o
00\\ lit TfRRL MluERF •
(,RISDI \10 IPU.l11 1\
. <.Ai,llJ.
U.Hffi,"f�Rll& • �L \1PI ORM
libro ll
l
OJ� J'ome rols
Flgensac
q{. Cop d'Agdo
Cap d Agde
The problem fo r
most Languedoc
producers is not
making but selling their
wine. Two ofthe very fe w to
have establlshed an
International reputation ar• Mas de
Daumas Gassac, the granddaddy
of th em all, and th• more
artisanal Grange d•s Peres, both In
th• commune ofAniane.

�uccessful Languedoc whit to :01n phn°e
th Mu :adet of the Midi Clalrette du
Lantuedoc 1 another local varietal white,
mad" m much smaller quant1t1es, in this c.a:e
north rather than south of Peze nas.
Two further sub-appellations have re cently
been recognized as appellations Terrasses
du Larzac, on windswept wastes of ltmestone,
pebbles, shingle, and clay, stretches from
Clermont l'Herault up into the Cevennes,
even fu rther north than Causse-de- la-Selle
i!OC 0 ANGL\DC
•
Longlade0
f
<;olV1sson
Av1gno
�
1
I
{MF
..,
,.
/
Vergeze � �
argues
t
.
P.erp1gnan
..r-
-.
_-"'"'1
�partement boundary
OOMCL\YBL Notable producer
•
Languedoc
PmAs Languedoc sub-appellation
� Cla1rette du Languedoc
Terrasses du Larzac
Pie St-Loup
Fa.res
Picpoul de Pinet
- Muscat de Lunel
- Muscat de Mlreval
- Muscat de Fronttanan
12
Yields are as low as 1n Faugeres, but on the
Larzac plateau nights can be a fu ll 36°F (20°C)
cooler than summer days, so grapes have
sometimes to be coaxed to ripen
The second 1s Pie St-Loup, named after the
dramatic pyramid of rockthat can be seen to
the north from the suburbs of Montpelher
The d1st1nct1ve wines that come from the
flanks of P1c St-Lo up and the nearby Montagne
de l'Hortus are some of the Languedoc's most
refined and sat1sfy1ng. The Carignan vines that
were once ub1qu1tous in the Languedoc are
limited to providing Just 10% of any P1c
St- Lo up blend. The varied, we ll-drained soils
benefit from slightly more drying winds and
useful ram than many of thei r neighbours
Syrah, which can easily suffer in extremely dry
cond1t1ons, does particularly well here.
The name of the medieval merchants' town
of Pezenas northeast of Beziers 1s given to a
promising sub-appellation of the Languedoc
for wines, some grown on schist, that take
advantage of the area's warm, dry summers
It extends north as far as Cabrieres, rich m
basalt and the same sort of schist as 1s found
in Faugeres to its 1mmed 1ate west and m
St-Ch1nian (described on the previous
pages) In terms of chmate, Cabr1eres 1s a
sort of halfway house towards the harsher
cond1t1ons of Terrasses du Larzac.
The south-fac ing vineyards of St-Saturnin
are usefully kept d isease-free by the north
winds that whistle thro1:1gh the vineyards of
Montpeyroux, also on the fl anks of the
Larzac plateau. Local fa ctors hke this can
have sign ificant consequences.
The extensive and often overlooked Gres
de Montpellier around this ancient university
city may contai n the French word gres for
sandstone but incorporates too wide a
swathe of vineyards to be restricted to this
soil type. St-Georges d'Orques and La
Mejanelle interrupt the sweep ofGres de
Montpellier, being virtually in the city's
•I•
143
A generation ago - probably even less - a
Languedoc cuver1e as smart and lavishly
equipped as this one at Chdteau Puech-Haut
m St-Drezery would have been unthinkable.
c
suburbs and, incidentally, close to one of
0
France's most celebrated seats ofv1t1cultural
learn ing. St-Drezery, St-Christo!, and
Sommieres are fu rther-fl ung Languedoc
sub-appellations
Outside the appellations
Those are the principal appellations of the
eastern Languedoc but many prod ucers,
whether in an AOC zo ne or 1n the flatlands
in between, make a range of IGP wi nes
(mapped on p.53) whose rules are much
more flexible They are particularly suitable
for varietal wines based more on a wel l-
known grape variety (or sometimes two)
than geography The reliably hot summers
can ri pen a usefully wide range, with
Chardonnay particularly common. Some may
be labelled with the name of seme small local
rGP zone but most carry the more
internationally recogn izable name "Pays
d'Oc", which apphes to all of Languedoc and
Roussillon (see over)
More and more wine made here 1s sold
simply as Vin de France: the flexible category
available for those who wish to work
untram meled by AOC and IGP regu lations
(and/or are unwilling to deal with the
paperwork involved).
The Languedoc has proved that 1t can be a
t
fine source of serious, terro1 r-d r1ven, often
handcraft ed essences of southern France,
but an area as extensive and varied as this
can be as difficult to understand as it is to
sell. As much as m Burgundy, the name of
the prod ucer holds the key to wine quahty
Remarkably few wines made here could ever
be described as overpriced, however.
•I•
•I•

144
FRANCE
Roussil lon
Once a mere suffix to the Languedoc,
Rousslllon Is exerting Its individuality:
physical, cultural, and vlticultural. Rich
reds and some of France's ftnest and
most distinctive whites are grown In its
sun-baked valleys, taking the place of
the strone, sweet wines for which the
region was once fa mous.
Te rroir An east-fac ing amphitheatre
adjoining the Mediterranean with three
rivers traversing the pebbly alluvial plain
between the Corb1eres hills and the
Pyrenees. Hard limestone, schist, gneiss,
and very thin soils dominate the hillside
vineyards in the north.
Climate Warm, dry, and very sunny
Mediterranean climate with occasional
summer storms.
Grapes R : Grenache Noir, Lladoner
Pelut, Carignan, Mourvedre, Syrah,
Cinsault; W: Grenache Gris, Grenache
Blanc, Maccabeu, Ve rmentino, To urbat
(Malvoisie du Roussillon), Marsanne,
Roussanne
Roussillon's inhabitants consider
themselves Catalans who happen to find
themselves in France - but only since 1659.
Their yellow-and-red-striped ban ners are
everywhere, their local dialect with its
double Ls more closely resembles Spanish
than French.
The landscape here may be more
dramatic - at the eastern end of the
Pyrenees the slopes of the Canigou,
snow-covered most of the year, swoop
more than 7,5 00ft (2,285 m) down to the
Mediterranean - but the region 1s softer,
less wild than the rocky contours of the
Corb1eres hills of the western Languedoc
to the north. Sunshine (an average of 325
days a year) helps, and explains the fields
and groves (and vineyards) of fru1t and
vegetables to which the Perp1gnan plain
and Agly, T�t. and Te ch valley fl oors are
devoted. The effects of that sunshine are
concentrat ed by the east -facing
amphitheatre created by the Corb1eres,
Canigou, and Albares mountai ns that
separate France from Spain
But 1t 1s the curious Inland region ofthe
upper Agly Val ley, with its d1st1nct1ve black
schist around Maury, that has become the
focus ofthe most exciting recent wine
act1v1ty in Rouss1llon. The sheer Individual ity
of its deep ·flavoured dry reds and, especial ly,
the d1sti nct1vely firm, long· living, mineral­
scented dry wh ites has drawn winemakers
fr om all over the world These table wi nes,
many of them grown organ ically or
b1odynam1cal ly, are evolving 1n style and
compos1t1on every year, with a notable
preponderance offollowers ofthe natural
wine cult (see p.35) Record sunshine and
low-yielding bushvines combine to make
tough tannins a potential problem.
Fe rmenting whole bu
.
nches and ret1r1ng the
destemmer 1s increasingly the sol ution.
C&tes du Rousslllon 1s the bas e - l evel
appellation, sti ll made largely from old-vine
Carignan, with Grenache, Cmsault, Syrah,
and Mourved re all on the increase
VINS DOUX NATURELS
C&tea du Rousslllon•Vlllqn from
the green zo ne are bolder, more positive
wines (reds only), thanks to even lower
yields and higher stre ngth . The villages of
Lesq uerde, Caramany, Latour- de- France,
and Tautave l, where several of the regio n's
flagship domaines are based, are all allowed
to append their names to this superior
appellation Les Aspres is another suffix
worth seeking out for wines made
elsewhere. Not before time, the dramatic
landscape of the Agly Valley was given an
appellation for its table wines m 2017,
although its name, Maury, was long
Fra n e's li t ;t fru its of the season regularly come from R o u b sillon, and the \in e) ard' on the pl.iin arc
some of the dnesl and holle&t 111 Fra n e their low bu'>heb 1eldmg '>mall cropb of f ully npc Grcn.1ch
gra pe of all hues .i ear l) us mid ugust They were trnd1tionall used for th e moqt b.1 ic of Hous s 1 llon's
fornou in Doux Natur 'i'i(VD ) The c onte popular aperitif'>arc nol 111 fn t naturallj &\\ Cd
w ines, as the name implies, but part ferrn nled grapejuice topped fro m be ommg '' llH' b addmg
a lcoho l , a cording lo th sweet ness und stre ngth & ought, but u u.111 later in th<' w111emakmg proccs;
than for port
Today, V111s Doux at urcl & account forJU'>l 20% ofRou,s1llon's ou t put, but they omtitute 9W< of all
ofFrance' VD '· Hivesaltes, made in a ast area ofHou.,stllon (nndpart ol the \\ eStC'rn Lan!(uL•doc
see p 141) , main! from Grenache Noir, B lanc, and ,n , onc e the taple ot worker,' bn r , 1s the 1110,t
popularbyfar. In 1lshe)da inthe mid 20th century, 70m1llion bottle' a yl'nr w('re .,old: toda), 1t'
lrn rdly 3 million Muscat de Ri vcs a lte s , a more recent c reat i on, comc., lrom thl' same gcncrou' 7011L'.
incorporating all but the h1ghe:,
,
t vmeyard land of the Py rc n CL", - 01 1 e nt;1 l e., dLlpat tement togt'lher with
the two enclave of Fitou 111 lheAude mapped on p. 141. Maury mak<''> homL• imc 1 cd \ D'1 but l'H'n tlw
prune prod ucer Ma� Amici has tmned 1t' attcnt10n to t.iblc wiiws
Banyuls 1' Fru n c;c '• finest VD , grown ,1 t :,1cld:,
,
that .,0111ct1111e' avcr.1gc IL'" lhan 20hl h . 1 o n 1'1 11ut"'
oulhcrnmo.,l vineya rd•, &Leep wmd wept terrace'> of brown '>Ch ht .,]oping to the 'L"I JU't 1101 th of a
ra ther lecpy S p ani sh lront1cr post . Grupe'> wmc p1t• do111 111.int l� tr o111 annent c.1t'n.H ht \nir h11, ht• , ,
often &hri "elli ng to ra1binb on the vmc. Age111g l<•thn1que'>, ,111cl thC't c fo1 L' h11''' .md w Lill 'l)1, , \.tr>
vc n more t han for port ('>C'C' p 2 1 4), with '><Hlll '' mt• , gt•<l 111 !(]a,., bonbunm·, ouh1d, tn th< u11 !'nil'
winC's heady with ran cw lln vour lllJ) 1 e. ult It om long . 1 gc 1 ng Ill old \v oockn c,1,k' o! .11! -izL' 111
rl'lnt 1vely wurm cond1l 101h , wlule w111es l.1hliil'd Jlun .1)(t' ate .1)!t•d l1k1• \ rnt.1g1 p1 11 I .it .1 n1111 h ll
l
OL<
'>tJteJ pa�c in bottle

assoc iated with VDNs (see panel) A
s1gr1ficant proportion of reds and
P
lly whites are sold as IGP C6tH
Catalan•• however, the haunting dry
whites benefiting from an exotic palette of
pale skinned grape var1et1es. Gauby,
Doma1ne de l'Hor1zon, Matassa, Roe des
Anges, Le Soula, and Demaine Treloar have
all proved that wine as great and ageworthy
as any Pullgny can be grown and made here.
Vaquer showed the way Many of them offer
good val ue for wines whose aromas come
from the soil rather than from fo llowing
1nternat1onal fas hion
Dry table wines made from the same
area as prod uces Banyuls VDN are named
after the pretty ftshing port of Collloure,
trad 1t1onally home to artists and anchovy
packers. Deep crimson essences, almost
more Spanish than French, also testify
to the ro bust alcohol levels ac hieved by
the vi nes, mainly Grenache but Increasi ngly
supplemented by Syrah and Mourvedre.
Potent white Coll1oure 1s also made,
usually fro m Grenac he Gris and some
Grenache Blanc.
International boundary
COies du Rouss1llon
llOM'-w:
s
�
erdc
KmO
""-0
Departement boundary
Notable producer
Villages that � append
their name to Otes du
Rouss1llon-V1llages AOP/AOC
1 250.00
0
23�5Km
,_
-
Cotes du Rouss1llon-Vlllages
- Banyuls and Colhoure
C=:
:J
Maury
c:
::l
R1vesaltes and Muscat de R1vesaltes
..
.
Weather station (WS)
ESPANA
•I•
ROUSSILLON • 11' .. ANCE
141
ROUSSILLON: PEHPIG J\
Latitude El val1un of W<;
42.74" / 138ft (42m)
Avt• rngc growing se,ison temperature 1t 'A<S
67.6"F (19.S"C)
Ave rage annual r,1111foll at W<;
22.0ln (558 mm)
llarve�t month ra infall at WS
September: 1 .S ln (38mm)
Prmcipal vi lJculturul hJzard'>
Drought
�)T
II
J{
Nior:M
M
ll.·
To psoil is so thm on these steep
black and brown schist slopes that
erosion 1s a constant threat, and
many plantings ofthese ancient
bushvmes are terraced.
c
0
D
T
E
T
f
..

•
..
.
148
FRANCE
Prove nce
In the wlld hllls of Provence, bet-•n the
Rh&ne and the Alps, wine was of secondary
Importance until fas hion called for rose•
Te rrolr Limestone inland, above ground as
well as under, some schist nearer the coast
with Provence's signature scented garrigue
on particularly poor soils.
Climate Quintessentially Mediterranean
with reliable sunshine (2,800 hours a year),
occasional drought, but much cooler in inland
f
hills, especially at night. The insistent mistral
from the north cools and dries the vi nes.
c
o
D
T
Grapes R: Grenache Noir, Cinsault, Syrah,
Mourvedre, Tibouren, Carignan, Cabernet
Sauvignon; W: Rolle (Vermentino), Ugni
Blanc, Clairette, Semillon, Grenache Blanc,
Bourboulenc
There are no great industrial vineyards in
Provence. Although its history starts with
the Greeks, and the Romans left impressive
traces, its coasts and fo rest uplands,
with thin soils and a harsh climate, are not
propitious to bulk wine-growi ng Or so 1t was
thought. While the Languedoc, west of the
Rhone, churned out France's daily ration, the
departments of the Bouches-du-Rhone, Var,
and Alpes- Maritimes were bit players. Rough
reds, a few old-fas hioned whites, and lots of
underwhelming, sometimes rather sticky
rose were about the size of 1t .
The tourist trade turned the tide; the
beach crowd, the yacht crowd , and the celeb
crowd Especially the last, investing in private
playgrounds: incomplete, surely,
without vineyards and a fine, refreshing
house wine Amb1t1ous, often very rich
incomers, drawn to the lavender, thyme, and
pines ofProvence's legendary countryside
and climate, have reinvented its wine culture.
Interesting reds and wh ites are made all
over the regi on, but rose, pale and dry,
dominates prod uction today. As rose, in
particular from Provence, became the
height offa shion, exports of Proveni;:al pink
increased sixfold in the 10 years from 2007
Most of th1s pale - pink wine is artfully
packaged, gently made, at least slightly
perfumed, and dry enough to be a useful foil
The Rougier fa mily ofChdteo.u Simone has been
making extraordlnar1ly dense wine ofall thre•
colours In Palette for more than 200 years, fr om
a vivid palette (hence the name?) ofgrape
varieties. Ch6:teau Cremade also grow-s
0
orry
le- Rouel
for the
garlic and
olive oil that
characterize the
region's cuisine.
a rich mix of historic
varieties.
Happily, some of the newcomers have wine
experience Having sold his fat her's property
in Margaux, Sacha L1chine arrived at Chateau
d'Esclans declaring his plan to make the
most expensive rose in the world. He has
succeeded, although his original Garrus now
has rivals, also desigr,ied to sati sfy, if not
discerning palates, then certainly deep
pockets. Their sales are dwarfed, however,
by those of L1chine's Whispering Angel, a
brand so cleverly marketed and popular with
well- heeled Americans that 1t has been
dubbed "Hamptons Water"
A look at the map explains why Provenr,;al
wine varies considerably in character
The classic appellation C&tea de Provence,
France's most extensive, encompasses the
northern outskirts of Marseille; the southern
limestone flanks of the Montagne Ste-V1cto1r.,
Mediterranean islands; the schists of the
warm coastal hinterland of resorts such
as Hyeres, Le Lavan dou, and St-Tro pez,
the cooler, subalpine retreats north of
In the hi/ls behind Nice'• evocative coas t/me, a
handful ofv1gnerons resist urban encroachment
m Bel/et, with ltaflanate grapes such as
Fol/e Notre (Fuel/a) and th• popular Rolle
(Vermentlno)

I 625.00
0
kmO
10
Mdo
o
O
!OMA.
(_-
-'-\.
0Esporron
Al RI
les Annelles o
0
Montmeyon
lloqols
•
Cll 1.\ \Nb
Brue Aunoc 0
Gros Be>sil{on
Cot19nac9
QI RO�TN>
Brlgrrofes u
la CeiJ.
.
'1
Jl{)\1 {)I \\I "10151>1M'
•
oAups
Villecroze
,
Thorenc0
._r. /'
,
c:
:
:
,
�-
-r
,"-\
"'
,/ S1jferonY le �is
_r-
) 0Tngance0��
'
,._
.;.:
,
/
·
¢
l.__
0
0
1
la Bastode
omps
ur Artuby
MALllERBE
LOS MIRl1LIE (DOM OTT)
�..,.
..
Poris
Cll I.ES IAl.ENTINES
DOM O'IT
�
Hes d'Hye res
ue dv
.l"'.
..
._,.,
,.
,,..
..,
,
olles
(Jc(X Levant
Ue de
• i�deC ros
Porquerolles
Dragu 1gnan, and even a pocket of vines
around Vtllars, well north of Nice.
The cooler, higher, limestone enclave of
Coteaux Varols 1s sheltered from softening
maritime influence by the Massifs de la
Ste-Bau me in the south and Bess1llon in the
north. Some vineyards in the wooded hills
north of Br1gnoles may not be picked until
early November, while vintage time on the
coast 1s early September or even earlier.
Most of those areas on the map without
vines are too high and cool to ripen grapes
Burgundian Louis Lato ur's Domaine de
Valmoissine near Aups, sold as IGP Coteaux
du Verdon, 1s devoted to Ptnot No1r, a sign of
1ust how cool it 1s here.
In the west, the landscape of Coteaux
d'Aix-en-Provence 1s less dramatic, as the
wines tend to be - although Counolse and
Cabernet Sauvignon add interest to some
roses. Between Coteaux d 'Aix-en- Provence
I•
and the River Rhone 1s the appellation named
after the extraord inary hilltop tourist trap
Les Baux-de-Provence. Warmed by the sea
on its southern slopes and buffeted by
Provence's infamous mistral from the north,
Les Baux, exceptionally, has rules that
demand organic vineyards, (as a fifth of
Proven<;al vineyar;-ds al ready are) The very
palatable wh ite Baux- de- Provence 1s made
mainly from Cla1 rette, Grenache Blanc, and
the increasi ngly popular Rolle (Verment1no)
Having been ruled by one nationality after
another (Nice was Italian Nizza up to 1860),
Provence enjoys a rich legacy of grape
var1et1es. In the cooler, higher vineyards of
northern Provence and 1n the relatively cool
Coteaux Varo 1s, the Viognier and Syrah of the
northern RhOne do we ll. Cabernet Sauv1gnon,
once revered, but risking overr1peness, 1s now
welcome only in the more northerly vineyards
of Coteaux d'A1x-en Provence.
•\•
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
c:
:J
c:
:J
c:
:J
c:
:J
DOM(JIT
•
�
,PIANCI
147
Dt!partement boundary
Les Baux-de-Provence
Luberon
Coteaux d'A1x-en-Provence
Palette
Coteaux Varois
Bellet
Cassis
Bandol
COtes de Provence
COies de Provence-Ste-Victo1re
COies de Provence-Freius
COies de Provence-Pierrefeu
COies de Provence-La Londe
Notable producer
Area mapped at larger scale
on page shown
Although old Carignan vl nes are usefully
high 1n ac idity for blends in warmer zones,
the authorities' current preoccupation
seems to be to red uce and eventual ly
eliminate them. Mourvedre ripens fu lly only
in the south, but Grenache and Cmsault (so
useful for roses) are encou raged everywhere
The herby T1bouren (the Rossese of
Dolceacqua over the border in L1guria) 1s a
speciality best planted on the coast.
Some fine Proven<;al reds (and wh ites) are
sold as IGPs, notably those from Les Baux's
Domaine de Treval lon, arguably the region's
finest red wine prod ucer of al l, along with
Domai ne Richeaume in the Ste -V1cto1re
enclave of COtes de Provence.
On the coast, Cassis, centred on the small
port to the east of Marseille, makes a serious
effort with its herbal, fennel-scented white:
excellent with oysters, de r1gueur with
bou1llaba1sse.
•I•
•
I
.!.
c
o
D
T
'
T
'
..

A
I
148
FRANCE ·PROVENCE
Bandol
On south-tilted terraces among the pines,
well Inland of the touristy port but open
to Mediterranean breezes, the appellation
Bandol fe els both Its Isolation and Its
unique status k"nly. In size 1t may be
dwarfed by the oceans of Cotes de Provence
that make up the bulk of wine produced in
this sunny corner of France. But in stature
1t is the most ad mired appellation of France's
Mediterranean coast .
While 70% of its wine is rose nowadays,
Bandol is best known for its supremely
+
Mediterranean reds, based on the
Mourvedre grape (the only such
c
French appellation) often
blended with some Grenache
and Cinsault Thanks to a
climate benign enough to
ripen a vine variety with
one of the longest
growing cyc les of al l,
most red Bandol 1s
o
vo luptuously ri pe, with
D
'
!.
F
'
'G
almost feral herbiness .
It can be en1oyed
relatively young,
vigorous and bracing;
especially a fresh,
al most Syrah - hke
style many prod ucers
now make - although
the best sti ll
prod uce a tan nic,
long- l i ved wine for
at least one oftheir
cuvees. Domai ne Te mp1er's
Cabassaou, made almost
exclusively from vines
planted in the 1960s, in
an amphitheatre near
Le Castellet protected
from the mistral, 1s the
most extreme of these. By law,
Bandol's signature grape variety
must constitute at least half the
blend, but 1n warmer years some
consc1ent1ous estates make cuvees
that are almost 100% Mourved re .
Not Just red•
Grenache in a warm vineyard can give too
much alcohol, but Is a common choice for
any north -fac ing site The substantial,
often Cinsau lt-dominated dry rose is much
drunk rn the region, and those with more
Mourvedre can age we ll - Doma1ne
Te mpter's rose, which 1s unparalleled, can
age fo r decades. Small quantities of full·
bodied (often underrated) white Bandol are
alao made, mai nly from the delightfully floral
Cla1 rette, Bourboulenc, and Ugni Blanc.
I'
Te rroirs in this smal l appellation vary
enormously. On the red clay soils that
predominate south of La Cad1ere d'Azur
(central on the map) the wines can be
extremely opulent, sometimes even a bit
heavy. On the chalky plain northeast of
St-Cyr, in an eastwards sweep to Le Brulat,
the soils are at their most neutral, and the
wines supple and obliging Bandol 1s at its
nerviest when grown Ol'I the stony, more
limestone-dominated soils 1n, the far
northeast of the zone, while from Bandol's
oldest soils, south of Le Beausset, comes
a mixed bunch ofwines. At higher elevations
(such as vineyards at 1,000ft/300 m
around Chateau de P1barnon and above
•al
D6partement boundary
Canton boundary
Commune (parish) boundary
l'IADBAl
lX
No!Jible producer
Appellation boundary
Vineyards
WOods
Contour interval 50 metres
1,300ft/400m at Domaine de l a Begude) •01•s
tend to be less fe rtile than most, and here
the vintage may extend to mid-October
The low rai nfall (drought- resistant
clones are being investigated) means that
yields are some of the lowest rn France,
Fo rt unately, any rain tends to be followed
by a sharp mistral that blows away the rlek
of rot . The low- ac id Mourvedre may not be
the easiest grape to vin1fy, with a tendency
to develop the fa rmyard smells associated
with reduction, but winemakrng techniques
in Bandol are becoming increasingly
sophisticated . Mourvedre has never been
a great fr iend of barr1ques, and most wine
1s matured rn large oak foudres.
Six Fours
/es Plag s
1100.00
0
-®­
r
K.nO
3ic.
.
1-
-
��'-
-
��'-
-
��..
..
.
Mdo
o
0
2Molo
o

Corsica
The wild Island of Corsica was Italian,
I• French, and remains a stubbornly
lndlvidual hybrid .
Te rrolr Schist In the far north and east,
where there are also alluvial deposits and
sand. Limestone in Patrimo n i o and the far
south. Granite in the west and south.
Cllmate Drie r and sunnier than anywhere
In mainland/continental France, w ith
particularly dry summers concentrating
flavours of everything grown on the island.
Grapes R: Niellucciu (Sangiovese),
Sciaccarellu (Mammolo), Elegante
(Grenache); W: Ve rmentinu, Biancu
Gentile, Muscat Blanc a Petits G rains
When France lost Algeria in the 1960s, an
army of skilled growers, the p1eds noirs,
migrated to the then-malarial east coast
ofthe island, and by 1976 Corsica's vineyard
had quadrupled, almost entirely with
bulk-prod ucing vines. Corsica's contr1but1on
to the European wine lake has since been
stemmed and, thanks to vast subs1d1es
from Brussels and Paris, the island's cellars
are now well-equipped, its winemakers
often trai ned at one of the mainland's wine
colleges, and its vineyards much red uced and
planted with superior and, increasingly, local
vine var1et1es. Even so, most of the more
interesting wine produced on the island is
also sold there, at prices boosted by tourist
demand. The wine most commonly exported
is basic IGP rose blessed only by Corsica's
seductive nom de verre, lie de Beaute, under
which al most half of all wine made on the
island now travels.
More and more Corsican wine, however, is
serious stuffthat has red i scovered its
birthright in the hardy trad1t1onal grape
varieties and the rocky hills where they grow
best. Most of the vineyards are within sight
ofthe coast though, for the mountainous
interior 1s too rugged for v1t1culture.
N1ellucc1u, Tuscany's Sang1ovese, accounts
for almost one-third ofthe island's vines.
It dominates the northern appellation
of Patrl monio, which produces some of
Corsica's best and longest-hved wines: firm
Rhomsh reds, well-balanced whites, and
rich Muscat Vins Doux Naturals (see p.144)
of h1gh quality
The much softer Sciaccarellu grape
(Tuscany's Mammol o), grown in about 15%
of the island's vineyards, is associated
principal ly with Corsica's oldest wine regi on,
on the gran itic west coast around the capital
Aiacc 10, at Calvi, and in the Sartene region
12
arou nd Propr1ano. It makes high ly drinkable,
soft yet spicy red and a rose that can be
lively despite its high alcohol content
Sweet, crisp, or savour�
Sweet wines, of Muscat or the local
Ve rmentinu (known as "Malvois1e de Corse"
in the north of the island), are also the
specialty of Cap Corse, the long northward
point of the island, and can be excellent
Rappu 1s a strong sweet red made here,
around Rogliano, from Aleat1cu grapes.
Wines made on this northern tip of Corsica
are labelled Coteaux du Cap CorH.
Vermentinu, the principal white grape in al l
of Corsica's AOCs, also produces crisp, dry
wines, varying from intensely aromatic to
steely citrus, and deeply savoury with age.
Calvi in the northwest uses Sciaccarellu,
N1ellucciu, and Ve rmentinu, as well as some
international grapes, to prod uce fu ll-bodied
table wines; Figarl and Porto-Vecchio do
the same in the south It 1s thirsty country,
with wines that could scarcely be cal led
I•
fl'"ANCI
141
thirst-quenching, although F1gari and
Sartene seem to have come fu rthest
towards modern, fruity crispness.
Plain Vin• de Corse are typically made
around Alerla and Ghlsonacc1a on the
eastern coastal plain; usually cheap blends
of local and international varieties.
Much more interesti ng are such
rediscovered indigenous varieties as
Morescone, Carcaghjolu, Carcaghjolu Biancu,
Genovese, Rossula Bianca, Vintaghju,
Cualtacc1u, Brust1anu, and Minustellu,
(which may be Grac iano). Most are allowed in
AOC blends only in very small proportions,
so many of the island's best wines are sold
as Vins de France (see p.52) So far, these
varieties are grown mai nly near sea level but
1t is likely that they will be planted at higher
elevations, which may result in even more
thrilling wines.
A new ge neration ofgrowers is eager to
make the most of their terro1r, and a local,
some would say captive, market will find in
their wines the heady scents of the island.
.,
Vrn deCine or Corse
- Corse-Coteaux du Cap
Corse/Muscat du Cap Corse
- Patnmonrol
Muscat du Cap Corse
- Corse-Calvr
Aiaccro
Corse-Sart�e
C=:
:J
Corse-Porto-Vecchro
- Corse-Frgim
..
.
Weather station (WS)
I 1,585,00
0
KmO
10
20
30
..0
�Km
Molo
o
0
10
20
30Milo
o
CORSICA: BASTIA
Latitude / Elevation of W
42.33° / 33ft (1 0m)
Ave rage grow rng sea on temperature at WS
s1.s°F c1s.a•ci
eragc nnnual rn rnfoll at W
31.Sin (799 mm)
Har e t month rainfall at v\T
September: 3.2 n (81 mm)
Prrnc1pal vit1culturnl hazards
Drought
•
-.
c
ii
0
f
E
T
'
6

150
FRANCE
Jura, Savoie, and Bugey
To the east ofBurgundy where France
begins to rise towards the Alps, three
regions make distinctive wines. The Jura
was the first to enjoy International renown.
Jura
Terroir Jurassic limestone forms the base,
not surprisingly, plus heavy clays and a wide
range of marls (clay-limestone) on south­
and southeast-facing slopes.
Climate A bit like Burgundy but cooler
and wetter.
Grapes W: Chardonnay, Savagnin;
R: Po ulsard, Pinot Noir, Trousseau
Jura's vineyards form httle enclaves, scattered
among woodland and meadow, m what seem
like France's remotest hills. They may have
shrivelled m extent considerably since the twin
scourges of mildew and phylloxera at the end
ofthe 19th century, but their wines are hugely
origi nal, and have recently found themselves,
blinking slightly, m the spotlight of fas hion
- not least because oftheir organic and
"natural" credentials. And their appellations
- Arbois, Chateau-Chalon, l'Eto1le, and the
al l-encompassing C6tes du Jura - hold special
fa scination for students of the fine art ofthe
table: food-and-wine pairing.
This 1s a verdant land of long meals,
influenced by the gastronomic trad1t1ons of
Burgundy to the 1mmed1ate west Their soils
and weather are s1m1lar, except that m the
Th three easternmost wine region of central
France are v1 rlually bounded by th Alps
or th eir Jurassic fo othills In the Jura,
immediately cast of the Cot e d ' Or, the vine
shares undulating meadowland with at tie
a nd otherfru it t rees.
In avoic, the vmc clings to rolling hills nnd
the mountams' low r slope Between the t wo,
I3ugey 1s ye t another wi nc region, 1 t; vin yards
well s altered m tlus ca c, dclim1tcd hy the
Rhone, and, 111 the north, theAin
Internat ional bo undary
Burgundy
Jura
Bugey
Sdvrne
Jura's much more Jumbled terrain, winters
can be even more severe. As In the C6te d'Or,
the best vineyards slope, sometimes steeply,
southwest, occasionally southeast, to catch
the sun. Jurassic hmest?ne was first
1dent1fied and takes its name from here. Both
Jura and Burgundy profit by 1t, but heavy
clays are more common m Jura, with a mosaic
ofdifferent colours of (clay-hmestone) marls.
Blue and grey marls are especially prized for
the Savagnm (alias Trammer) grapes
responsible for Jura's most dist1nct1ve, 1f by
no means most common, wine - the fa mous
Vin Jaune. This 1s one ofthe fe w regions
where oxidation m wine 1s considered
desirable - at least for its fa mous spec1ahty.
To make Vm Jaune, Savagnin grapes are
picked as ripe as possible, fe rmented and then
left, un-topped-up, in old Burgundy barrels
for at least six years. As the w1 ne evaporates
a film of yeast grows on its surface, thinner
than the fa mous flor ofthe Jerez region,
where the warm cond1t1ons m the bodegas
encourage its growth (see p.203), but
resulting in a taste similar to fino sherry. An
ac quired taste, say some. Vin Jau ne can last
for decades and can blossom for hours after
opening, preferably at a table with mature
Comte cheese or a local poulet de Bresse.
The Chlteau-Chalon appellation 1s limited
to this odd but potentially excellent style of
wi ne, but Vm Jaune of distinctly varying
qual ity 1s made throughout the region, as 1s
more youthful Savagn1n, aged with s1m1lar
exposure to ai r and protected by flor,
described as sous- voile , or under a veil, here
Such wine may be sold as a varietal Savagnin
or may be an ingredient 1n blends, usually with
Chardonnay. Occasionally you may find a wine
labelled sous- voile or type; more often its
opposite, ouille, where the barrels have been
topped up to avoid ox 1dat1on . Modern wine,
Bu rgundy-style, m other words
Chardonnay 1s the most-planted white
grape, particularly m the south, and finds its
place m some markets as a very palatable
alternative to white Burgundy
The most common red wine grape is the
perfumed Poulsard, often called Ploussard,
especially around Pup1llin (a sub-appellation
of Arbo1s). It makes hght, rose- scented wine
the colour of pale tomato iu1ce and, being
naturally red uctive, 1s popular with
winemakers pursuing a no-added- sulphur
path. Trousseau is a deeper-coloured but
less widespread Jura grape whose peppery,
violet-scented wine 1s grown mainly around
Arbols - although, thanks to the vogue for
Jura wines, 1t 1s grown as far afi eld as
California and Oregon. Pmot No1r has become
almost as widely planted as Poulsard, and is
grown not iust for still reds but for Cremant
and Macvi n It tends to do best around Arlay,
due west of Chateau-Chalon, and south of
Lo ns-le-Saunier (see opposite) This
southern part ofthe Cotes du Jura prod uces
mai nly white wines, including Vm Jaune, while
the small appellation l'Etoile, named for its
tiny, star- s h aped mari ne fossils, 1s restricted
specifically to whites

Savoie sat1sn.s th• •Y• as well as the palate
of any wine tourist fo llowing th• Route des Vms
fr om just south ofChamb4ry to Abym es.
South -fa omg vineyards flank the Lac de Saint
Andre at th• fo ot ofMont Gra nier.
Jura has always produced good sparkling
wine Today, trad1t1onal- method Cremant du
Jura, mostly Chardonnay based, represents
over a quarter of Jura's total production, and
can be excellent val ue. A more re cent, 1f less
substantial, craze has been for the hght,
sweetish, gently sparkling Pet-Nat (pet1/lant
nature!) made by the so-called ancestral
method. An unctuous vm de pa1/le (straw
wine) 1s also made throughout the region,
from Chardonnay, Savagr nn, and/or Poulsard
grapes, picked early and dried in carefully
ventilated cond1t1ons until January, when
these raisins are fe rmented (to at least
14% alcohol by vo lume), and then aged in old
barrels for two or three years. Like Vin Jaune,
these rarities are for very long keeping.
One final speciality 1s Macvin du Jura, a
frag rant and often characterful mixture of
grape JUiee and grape sp1r1t drunk as an
ape r1t1f in the regi on
Savoie
Savoie 1s France's al pine country, and its
fre sh, al pine wines are now attracting
atte ntion from fa ns ofthe hght, art1sanal,
and Frenc h . A small but increasing part of
Savoie 1s devoted to the vine, but the wine
areas, and even individual vineyards, are
widely dispers ed. Mountains so often get in
the way, and most ofthe original v1gnoble
was abandoned, or replanted with hybrids,
aft er phylloxera, mildew, and World War I .
The wines are so varied, from such a rich mix
ofsub-appellations and local vine spec1aht1es,
that 1t seems extraordinary to the outsider
that al most all ofthem go under the same
lDas1c appellation, Savoie, or Vin de Savoie.
A Savoie wine 1s about twice as likely to be
�ite
as red or rose It 1s also about 10 times
�
likely to be hght, clean, and fre sh - at
il>Jte with Savoyard mountai n air, lakes, and
p
e
ams - than it is to be deep and heady.
� r viticulture, lower yields, and chmate
�ange are now delivering a bit more intensity
dnthe mtnerally whites and brooding reds from
&raPe varieties unseen elsewh ere. The most
"Vl
ll
uable dark-skinned grape is the peppery,
0¢eas1onally oaked Mondeuse, fa shionably low
in alcohol but high in flavour, brisk and JUICY
Mondeuse used to be confused with Refosco
from !stria (they are similar in flavour and
nk:$1y assertive tannln). Invigorating Persan,
with its juicy note of plums and a strong streak
oftannin, has recently and definitively been
nscued from near-extmction.
The great ma,iority of w1ne sold as straight
Savo ie rs white, however, and made from
the Jacquere grape that dommates the
,,,
JURA'S HEARTLAND
The general Cotes du Jura appellation
extends south ofBeaufort, but there are
hardly any vineyards there.
The great concentration ofvme­
growing 1s aroundArbois. Fu rther
south, vineyards are much less
commonly encountered in the rolling
green hills and pretty villages.
DOM MAW! Notable producer
•
Arbo1s
Chateau-Chalon
1'£to1le
COtes du Jura
Il
ly
II,.,.
..
.,
,
l DOMAl:Mtmar
==-1.0
0D
T!Sm
DOMOO=
MICl
lEL
GAl
llD
J DOMDI!I.A'l'OIJIN
EID
DOMDI!LOCl'AVIN
DOMllOl.EI"
OOl
l
M
Tl
l!
l'l
ll
llIDI
V1
1i10
0L!
D'Al
ll
lOIS
3DOMll
ll
ll'l1l
l!I
IONDl!T
DOMMAW!
c
o
D
T
E
T
F
"G

A
I
t
0
152
FRANCE • JURA, SAVOIE, AND BUGEY
vi neyards. The re sult 1s typically light, dry,
and discernibly al pine The sparkling
Cremant de Savoie appellation introduced
1n 2014 depends heavily on Jacquere
But within the greater Savoie region,
16 individual sub-appellations (the word cru
has officially been outlawed) are allowed to
append their name to Savoie on the label,
provided certain conditions, different for each
but stricter than for basic Savoie appellation
wi ne, are met. On the southern shores of Lac
Leman (Lake Geneva), for example, only the
Chasselas grape, so beloved by ne1ghbou r1ng
Switzerland, 1s allowed for wines labelled
R1pa1lle, Marin, Mar1gnan, and Crepy. South
of here 1n the Arve Valley 1s Ayze, which
produces still and especially sparkling whites
from the rare Gr1nget grape, championed by
only two producers ofany size, including
popular Domaine Belluard
Southeast of Bellegarde is isolated Frangy,
specializing in the local, characterful, and
ageworthy wh ite Altesse, alternatively
called Roussette The superiority of th1s
grape is recognized by a special appellation,
Roussette de Savoie, for any Savoie wine
made from it, within certai n cond 1t1ons.
(The four sub-appellations authorized only
for the prod uction of Roussette de Savoie
are marked in magenta on the map.)
South of Frangy, Seyssel has its own
appellation. It was once we ll-known for its
featherweight sparkling wines made mainly
from local Molette grapes, but Altesse- based
st ill wines predominate today South of
Seyssel 1s the regrettably shrinking v1gnoble
of Chautagne, best known for its reds,
particularly its grai ny Gamay To the west of
the Lac du Bou rget 1s Jong1eux Reds are
made, but a wine labelled simply "J ong1eux" 1s
made exc lusively from Jacquere. However,
Altesse, which may we ll have originated here,
is the most revered variety, espec ially on the
Marestel vineyard slope that has its own
Roussette de Savoie des1gnat1on.
Savo1e's largest vineyard area hes to the
south of the town of Chambery, fac ing south
and southeast on the lower slopes of Mont
Granier, at the end of the Chartreuse
mountain range. Here are the popular
sub-appellations ofApremont and Abymes,
both strongholds of Jacquere. Following the
lsere river up the Combe de Savoie 1s a cluster
of named sub-appellations where all of Savo1e's
var1et1es are grown, including red wine grapes
and especially Jacquere and some Altesse.
Of these, Chignin is responsible for one of
the region's best-known ambassadors,
Chi1n 1n· Bergeron, made exclusively from
Rou11anne, the white grape of the Rhone .
(Roussette 1s unrelated, though both grapes
have 1lm1larly ru11et-coloured skins).
Ch1gn1n· Bergeron , grown on the steepest
1lope1, 11 one ofSavole's more powerful and
powerfully scented whites, with a certain
1 1,00
0
,00
0
Kly to producers
1 DOMll
llL
LUAMl
JDOMCl
ll
l'!1!1'
3DOMMONIN
Km0
.,._
__1._
o
_
..,.
..
_
20.___ ..
.
30_
_
_.
oj()
Km
MJlo
o
O
10
20Mil.
LBr.AVBAUBl
lGlSTB
4!WliONANGE.OT
5 QIDBUJCBV
6 DOM DUPASOUIBR
7Al
lD
Rt
BTMfQl
l!L
QUBNARD
CIL
Ll
l!R
Dl!SClt,l,Y
DIDllR 1.Dl!NISBRR1
11
0WEl
l
GWJISBl!RIJOZ UO
OID
l�DI!'= �
PAl
l
JBNTRO&m"
LOIDSllAGNIN
9DOMDI!LIDYL
LB
Amberieu­
en Bug�y
10 =:0�
SAVO IE AND BUGEY
Just a glance at the
concentration of wineries and
vineyards suggests how narrow
some of these subalpine valleys
are. Most of the vineyards are at
820-1,475ft (250-450m). Only Ayze
and Cerdan lie higher
AOl'/AOC
HlPNIN DE PAYS
International boundary
Departement boundary
Vin de Savo1e/Savo1e
Seyssel
Bugey
Vin des Allobroges
l�re Balmes Dauphino1ses
l�re Coteaux du Gr�s1vaudan
•N6Ho
Sub-appellation of Savoie
•Frangy
Sub-appellation of Rousselle de Savoie
•llMJcl< Sub-appellation of Bugey
LOUi
i
MMlNIN
•
-
l'
Notable producer
Wlne-produclne areas
Weather sllbon (WS)
herbal qual ity. The Combe de Savoie,
especially the village of Arb1n southeast of
Chambery, is good at reds, ripening Mondeuse
to the fu ll Persan has potential here, too.
In !sere, Gres1vaudan 1s almost l i ke a
southern exte nsion of Savoie at the foot of
the Chartreuse Mountains, whereas Bal mes
Dau phino1ses, on the other side of the
Chartreuses, 1s almost an extension of
Bugey, albeit south ofthe Rh6ne loop
Su••Y
Bupy and Roueaet
te
du Bupy won their
own appellation 1n 2009 The author of the
classic The Physiology of Tas te, Brlllat-
SAVO IE: CHAMBERY
Latit ude / Elevation ofW.
45.64° / 771 ft (235 m)
veragc grow ing ea on temperature at W
61.5'F (1 6.4°C)
Average annual rainfall at W
48.1in (1,221 mm)
Hane tmonth rainfall al W
Septe mber: 4.4 in (112mm)
Principal vit1cultural hazards
Hail and humidity in the growing season
Pnn ipal grape vanetic<o
R: Gamay, Mondeuse, Persan; W : Jacquere,
Altesse (Roussette), Roussa nnc, Chasselas
•
Savar1n, was a Bugey native and wo uld have
been delighted at this recogn ition of his
homeland Sparkling wines predominate with
light, frothy, medium sweet , pink ancestral ­
method Cerdon - based on Gamay grown on
very steep, south ·fac ing slopes up to 1,600ft
(4 88m) - its most d1stmct1ve and popular
am bassador Chardonnay provides bac kbone
for the trad 1t1onal method ftzz and st ill
whites, but Altesse, for Rou ssette du Elug y,
1s particularly prom1s1ng. Gamay dom inate
red wines but Mondeu se and P•not l\lo1r m
do well here, too As in Savoie var1ol. , na
sub·appellat1ons rray add their nar"e : • h
regio n al appellations

ALY
Th ese vln s n ar Conegltano are a s mall, and particularly
scenic, part of the grea tly enlarged portion ofnortheaa t
Italy now offlcmlly allowed to produce Prosecco.

•
..
.
•
c
c
o
E
'
154
Italy
Is there a country so
stylishly creative as Italy?
Or less easily governed?
Italy has the world's
richest variety of Individual
wine styles, distinctive
terroirs, and Indigenous
grape varieties. At the top end
her wines have a v1vac1ty, original ity,
savour, and fl air all their own
Colonizing Greeks called Italy
Oenotr1a - "the land of wi ne" (or,
strictly, staked vines - a sure sign of
serious far ming). The map reminds us
that there 1s little ofItaly that 1s not,
at least marginally, wine cou ntry.
Only France - sometimes - makes
more wine than Italy But unlike
France, Italy has never fu lly embraced
central government. Each of the
20 regions mapped here has its
own unique culture, traditions, and
wine personality.
In terms of geography, Italy has
endless opportunities to produce
good wine, and in endless variety, 1f
slopes, sunshine, and a temperate
climate are the essentials. Her
peculiar physique, that ofa long
spine of mountai ns reaching south
from the sheltering Alps al most to
North Africa, means that virtually
every desirable combination of
elevation with latitude and exposure
1s present (a possible advantage as
climate changes) Many of her soils are
volcanic, much 1s limestone, there 1s plenty
of grave lly clay. But with such variety
ge neral ization seems futile. Ifthere is
anything lacking, it 1s order Italian wine labels
remain a labyrinth IfItaly 1s v1t1cultural heaven
and offers us so much, 1t also continues to
evolve, with particularly energetic and
sustai ned research into the country's
unrivalled heritage of indigenous grape
va rieties. Its late 20th ·century reverence
for international varieties is fad ing fast
Italy's wine law
From the 1960s on, the Italian government
undertook the monumental task of devising
an answer to France's Appellation d'Or1g1ne
Contr61ee system the DOC (Denominazione
d1 Or1gi ne Controllata), complete with
boundaries (often too ge nerous), maximum
yield& (ditto), and specified grape varieties
and production methods. A superior form
ofDOC with stricter rules, DOCG (for which
the origin was not just controlled but
guaranteed - a nice dlst 1nct1onl was created
and has been increasingly bestowed since
SCHWEIZ
t16,00
0
,00
0
KmO
100
:ZO
O
Km
Mlo
o
O
50
100Mlo
o
the 1980s. By 2015 (stat1st1cs emerge slowly
from Italy) there were 332 DOCs and 73
DOCGs. Our expert cartographers have
been at fu ll stretch tracing some of their
labyrinthine boundaries.
In 1992, a law was passed to restructure
the whole system of classification with
tighter restr1ct1ons, including maximum
permitted yields, decreasing steadily from
the pinnacle of DOCG to DOC and then down
to the IGT (lnd1caz 1one Geografica T1p1ca),
category Like IGPs, IGTs it's a pity they
sound so alike can use the geographical
and varietal name and, crucial ly, vintage,
which was outlawed for the most basic
category, Vino da Tavo la, now cal led Vino
ITALY'S WINE·PRODUCING AREAS
Thi s map is Intended .. a f'emlnder of the
whereabouts of the regions, and as a key
to the subsequent, more detailed map,.
The most important cu rrent DOCs and
DOCGs appear on the fo ur pages that
carve up the country into northwest,
northeast, centre, and south, except
those in the most important centres
of quality wine-growing, wh ich are
given large-scale maps of their own.
International boundary
Reg1one boundary
W1ne-produc1ng area
Land above 60
0
metres
� Regional map page number
/sole •
Eol1e o Lipan
.
...
'
d'ltalia, and often used by Italy's growing
band ofexperi mental winemakers for
fe rments that are too unorthodox for official
tasting panels .
Of the around 120 IGTs, by far the most
common are those carrying the name of one
of Italy's regions. IGTs have appeared on an
1ncreas1ng proportion of labels not least
because many of the names (Umbr1a, To scana,
for exam ple) have more market resonance
than those of 1nd1v1dual DOCs Smee then,
some ofthese regional IGTs, Sicilia for i n stance,
have been promoted to DOC status.
Cabernet Sauvlgnon was first introd uced
in the ear ly 19th century and Chardonnay
spearheaded the late 20th c entLI"Y i n va ion
•I

When they bought the Fontodl estate in the
Ch1ant1 Class/co vil
lag
e of Panzano m 1968,
th• Manettl fa mily dlv•r• ifl•d Into wme fr om
their terracotta pot business, currently being
revived by demand from fe llow vin tners.
of other popular international varieties such
as Merlot and Syrah. But this became a
disadvantage m a global market saturated
with international varieties, and led to a
long-ove rd ue reappraisal of Italy's own
myriad and ofte n glorious grapes. Grapes
such as F1ano, Greco, Malvas1a, Nos1ola,
Peco rino, R1bolla G1alla, and especially
Ve rmentino for wh ite wines, and Aglianico,
Cesanese, Gaglioppo, Lagrein, Marzem1no,
Negroamaro, Nerello Mascalese, Nero
d'Avo la, Pe rricone, Pr1m1t1vo, and Teroldego
for reds have al ready established a
reputation outside their region of o rigin.
Others will follow.
Good whites, too
There was a time when al l of Italy's best
wines were red, but no longer. Italy learned
to make "modern" (that 1s, fresh and crisp)
white wine 1n the 1960s. In the 1980s, she
began to add bac k the character that was
lost m the process, and by the late 1990s
had succeeded. Soave, Verd1cch10, and
Trentino-Alto Ad1ge's and Fr1uli's range of
white varietals are by no means the only
Italian wh ites that can now be found in
dehc1ously complex form. And a retro,
" natural " trend in Italian wh ite winemaking,
pioneered by Grav ner of Fri uli and much
THE LANGUAGE OF THE LABEL
Pwdi>tto iatetrNmente e lmbcittlg:l
la
M. Afr.�� di Fabian Schw11n:
/'ROOOITO IN n:
750mle �.
.=
=si\Zilf
�
QUALITY DESIGNATIONS
14�% vol
Denomlnazione di Origlne Controllata e
Garantita (DOCG) wines recog11 1zed as lta ly's best
(or i,upported b the mo t ski lful lobbyists)
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)
ltaly's onguial answer lo Francc's AOP; O
(>ee p.52) and equivalent to the E° 's Denom innzione ch
Originc ProtPlta (DOP), whkh n!&o incl udes DO 'G
lndicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP)
the EU denom mation gradually rcplau n g lndicazione
Geografica Tlpica (IGT)
Vino or Vino d'ltalia, or imp! Vino Rosso/
Bianco/Rosato (depend mg on colour) the ba.,k EU
denom 111a t1on re placmgVino da Tavo la
copied el sewhere, has seen skins increasingly
left in the fe rmentation vat even for wh ites.
The wines that are most ad mired in Italy
have evolved considerably over the last
40 years At the end of the last centu ry,
a handful of wme guides were dangerously
influential, and reserved their highest praise
for powerful, internationally styled wines,
typically fas hioned by a band - some would
say too smal l a band - of well-travelled
consultant oenolog1sts. But the often­
predictable infl uence of both gu ides and
consultants has declined considerably now
that individuality, expression of truly local
terro1r, quintessentially Italian ac 1d1ty and
tannin, and ancient vine varieties and
techniques are seen as fas hionable virtues.
OTHER COMMON EXPRESSIONS
Abboccato hghtly sweet
Alberello bushvme
Amabile e m1· weet
Annata vintage year
Appassimento proce s ofgrape drying which may be
for swee t or dry wines (notably Valpo licella' marone
a n d Val telli na's Sfurzat)
Azienda agrlcola wine e tate whi h doe not buy 111
grapes or wine, unlike an azienda vmicola
Bianco white
Cantlna cellar or winery
Cantlna socialc, cantina cooperativa
co-operalive winery
Casa vlnlcola wm firm, often a bolller
Chiaretto very pale red or rosa to
Classico ori gina l , rather than expanded , wine zone
Colle/Colli hill / hill
Consorzlo g r owe rs' ..l'i'IOclatlon
Dolce SWC I
Fattoria l ite ra lly, form
Frtzzante .!:le mi.. spnrl ling
Gradl (alcool) alcohoh bl rcngU1 JS a pe rce ntage
by vol urn
Another sort ofconsultant is more val ued
today· agronomists with a grasp of more
and more popular organ ics and biodynam1c
v1t1culture, such as Ruggero Mazz1lli who
has been helping to convert the entire
Cannubi cru in Barolo country to organic
v1t1culture. The general trend towards
reve ring grand parental rather than parental
practice 1n vineyard and cel lar has led to a
re -evaluation of trad1t1onal vine-trai ning
techniques such as the overhead tendone
and pergola systems, which can protect
vines from sunburn m Italy's increasingly hot
summers Alberello bushvines are similarly
being reap praised.
Ital ian vines and wines are, rightfully, once
more being celebrated for being Ital ian
lmbottlgliato (all'origine) bottled (at ource)
Liquoroso strong, usually fortified
Metodo classico, metodo trad izlonale
bottle-fermented pa rklmg Wlne
Passito strong, u ually sweet wme made from dried
grape
Podere very small agneultural property, smaller
than dfuttorm
Recioto wme made from half-dried grape ,
a Veneto spccmlity
Riserva specia l , l ong- aged election
Rosato rose
Rosso red
Secco dry
Spumante parkling
Superiore wrne that has undergone mor agemg
than normal DO and con tains 0. 5 1% more alcohol
Te nuta a single estate
Vendemmia vintage
Vendemmla tardiva t1tc han·est
Vigna, vlgneto vmcyard
Vlgnalolo, vltlcoltore vm -gro"er
Vino wme

•
i
•
c
c
o
(
'
156
ITALY
Northwest Italy
Northwest Italy means Plemonte to any
foreicn wine lover, but the hills around
Alba and Asti (the Langhe and Monferrato
mapped In detail overleaf) are not the only
great vineyards of this subalpine corner.
Te rroir Hillside, sometimes vertiginous,
v1t1culture predominates, with a southern
aspect increasingly vital towards the north
of the main map.
Climate Inland, especially higher, sites and
later-flowering varieties can have trouble
ripening before the arrival ofautumn but
summers can be hot .
Grapes R: Barbera, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto,
Rossese; W: Moscato Bianco, Cortese,
Arneis, Ve rmentino
Northwest Italy's noblest grape, the
Nebb1olo of Barolo and Barbaresco, gives
exceptional, 1f different, results in several
parts of the region - most notably in the hills
above Novara and Vercelli (famous for rice)
Here, go ing by the local name of Spanna, 1t
dominates the production of no fe wer than
10 different local denominations in Alto
P1emonte, each for a different sort of soil All
benefit from a subalpine climate, a southern
exposu re, and fast-draining glacial and
porphyry soils of volcanic origi n that are
more ac id than the soils of the Langhe. In
pract ice, al l depends on the grower and the
amount of Bonarda, Croati na, or Vespolina
grapes added to the Spanna backbone.
The DOCG Gattinara 1s usually considered
the best, heaviest 1n Spanna (at least 90%),
and easiest to find. Antomolo, Nervi (acquired
by Giacomo Conterno of Barolo in 2018), and
Travaglim are the growers who provide some
of the most convincing exam ples. Ghemme
(also DOCG) lags behind a litt le, but tiny
Lessona has great potential, and Antoniotti
in Bramaterra with soil rich 1r.1 porphyry 1s
emergi ng as one ofAlto P1emonte's very best
producers. All have slightly different varietal
and ageing req uirements. Colline Novaresi 1s
an umbrella DOC for Ghemme, Boca, Sizzano,
and Fara, allowing anything from 50% to
100% Spanna and not demanding long cask
ageing. Too long in cask can overwhelm these
re latively delicate but deceptively long- lived
reds. Coste della Sesia does the same job
for Gattinara and Lessona. Instead of cask
ageing, these are wines that can benefit from
literal ly decades in bottle, as Antonio Val lana
in particular can demonstrate The wines of
Alto P1emonte 150 years ago were more highly
regarded than the then-emergent Barolo.
Nebb1olo 1s also the key grape of the far
northeast corner of the map opposite,
where Lombardy meets Switzerland . In the
west-east trench of the Valtellina Valley, on
steep, south-fac ing suntraps on the north
bank of the River Adda, the grape, known here
as Ch1avennasca, makes leaner mountain
reds Plain Valtellina Rosso 1s pretty basic,
the heartland, Valtel llna Superiore DOCG,
includes the Grumello, Infe rno, Sassella, and
Valgella subzones, which make infinitely
better wine. Some dry Sfurzat (Sforzato) 1s
made from sem1- dr1ed grapes - a local
speciality that can mature to quite grand
effe ct . Notable producers include ARPEPE,
D1rup1, Fay, Nino Negri, and Rai nold1.
I•
North ofTu rin on the road up tothe Valle
d'Aosta and the Mont Blanc tu nnel to France
there are two more Nebb1olos, of high
reputation but low output. Tiny Carema is
the better known, still in P1emonte but with
its own name for Nebb1olo - P1cutener. Both
Ferrando and the local co-op are excellent.
Donnas 1s made over the provincial boundary
within the Valle d'Aosta, in Italy's smallest
wine region. Alpine conditions may make
these Nebb1olos paler and less potent than
those from lower elevations but they have
their own fi nesse. Aosta's own red grape is
Petit Rouge, which tastes not unlike the
Mondeuse ofSavoie: dark, fre sh, berry1sh, and
bracing. It forms the basis of E nfer d'Arvier
and Torrette, among ot her wines subsumed
into the Valle d'Aosta DOC. The Fu min grape
makes longer-lived reds. The busy val ley also
makes some rec herche whites from imported
grapes: the very light Blanc de Morgex et de
la Salle, some winter-weight Malvo1sie and
Petite Arvine from Switzerland, and some
lively Chardonnay.
Where the hilly turbulence of P1emonte
merges with the Lombard plain to the east,
conditions become less al pine and less
extre me The fu lcrum of Lombard 1c
viticulture 1s Oltrepo Pavese, the part of
the province of Pavia that lies beyond the
River Po. Some of Italy's best Pinot Nero,
with Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay grown
for sparkling wines, come from here
(Franc1acorta is discussed on p.164).
Gutturnio makes increasingly 1mpress1ve
still red from Barbera and Bonarda while the
Colli Piacentini south of Piacenza produce
lighter, someti mes fr 1zzante, versions
South from Piemonte over the final curling
tail ofthe Alps, known as the Ligu r1an
Apennines, we are on the Mediterranean, with
scarcely enough room between the mountains
130
0
,00
0
ICmO
10Km
i-
-�
��-
--
-�
�.
.-
--
--�
��
��
Md.O
Provtnc1a boundary
� DOCG
� DOC
• l'l!WNI! Notable producer
, /DOC boundaries are distinguished
by coloured lines
V1ney11rds
!
N
Woods
Contour interval 100 metre�
ALTO PIEMONTE
This is just part, the most Important part, of
the 1roup of DOCs known as Alto P1emonte, a
sou rce of supremely el egant Nebbiolo baaed
reds that was fam ous long before Barolo and
Barbaresco. Phylloxera wu responsible for
its decline but It 1s now resur1ent

NORTHWEST ITALY • ITALY
117
11,A15,00
0
and the sea to grow grapes L1gur1a's
prod uction 1s tiny, but highly 1nd1V1dual and
worth invest1gat1 ng Of 1ts grapes only
Ve rment1no (also known as Plgato here) and
Malvas1a are widely grown elsewhere. From
steep, te rrac ed vineyards, Cinque Te rN 1s
the white wine served with fish on the coast
near La Spez1a. Its hquorous version is cal led
Sc1acchetra, made from dried grapes grown
NORTHWEST ITALY: TOHI 0
KmO
20
«I
.0
901!.o
Mlfot0
�---- --
10
,.
..
..
____�
20--..
._
__
30
,.
..
__
_._
«l
,_.----i
Ml
lo
o
Lill1tudc J•, kv.it10 11 of WS
45.2" / 991ft (302m)
A\l'rngcg1owingseason tcrnpe1"1 ture atWS
63. B"F (17.7°C)
lnternatlon1I boundary
Reaione boundary
CAllMA Red wtne
\<.'rage <lllnual rainfall at WS
29.2 m (741 mm)
Harvest month rai nfall . t WS
October: 3.0in (75mm)
WWJHB Red and white wtne
Cinque Ter
re
White wine
DCCG /DOC boundaries are dlsttnauished
by coloured lines
in vertiginous seaside vineyard s - a real labour
of love. But the most memorable L1gu rian wine
is the haunting, ageworthy, almost burgund ian
red Rosse•• di Dolceacqua grown, with great
difficulty, on steep hillsides increasingly
colon i zed by vegetable-growers hungry for the
sunshine of the coast.
Pr1 11c1pal vit1cu l tural hazards
Downy mildew, hail, underripeness
umd above 60
0
metres
f"
"156'
Area ma pped at larger scale
�
on page shown
SIGNIFICANT APPELLAT IONS
Italy has so many wine appellations - hundreds ofthem - that we
have had to restrict this and the ot her regional maps to the
most s ign ificant. Note how they cluster on hillsides The flat
plain of the Po is not ftne wine country
FRANCE
.'10:
0
!.;.
Sa n Remo
CL
lmpeno
Y
Weather station (WS)
SCHWEIZ
I
The c•lebrated Elio A/tare ofBarolo hcMi:
a1omt venture, Campogrande, here with a
local gro wer. The estate produces complex,
iodine-scented whites fr om Bosco and
Albarola grapes grown on vineyards leading
steeply down to the sea.
t
{N

158
ITALY · NORTHWEST ITALY
Piemonte
The parallels between Plemonte and
Burgundy are many. Both are hugely
fas hionable and increasingly expensive,
with the wines tending to come from
carefully delineated, crucially situated,
fam ily-owned vineyards . And in both
regions food is as important as the wine.
Autu mn's wh ite truffles play a maier part in
P1emonte, which means "at thefootofthe
mountains" - in this case the Alps. The Alps
al most encircle this hilly regi on, so that from
its heart, the rol ling Monferrato hills around
Ast1, they form a continuous dark - or in
wi nter and spring, sparkling white - horizon
Less than 5% of P1emontese vineyards are
offi cially classed as flat Every slope of vi nes,
1t can seem, fac es in a slightly different
d1rect1on and is governed by slightly different
cond1t1ons and elevation, determ ining which
vine var1et1es are planted where If each
vineyard 1s characterized by its very own
mesochmate, the Piemonte region has a
macroclimate of its own, with what can be a
very hot growing season followed by a misty
autu mn and a cold, often foggy, wi nter
The two best-known reds of P1emonte,
Barolo and Barbaresco, take their names
from villages mapped in detail on the next
pages Most of the rest of Piemonte's most
fam ous wines are named after the grapes
from which they are made Nebb1olo, Barbera,
Brachetto, Dolcetto, Gr1gnolino, Fre1sa,
Moscato lfto the grape they add a d1str1ct
name (for example, Barbera d'Asti), it means
they come from a limited and theoretically
superior area . The notable exceptions to this
fo rmat are the relatively recent Langhe,
Roero, Monferrato, and catch-all P1emonte
denom1nat1ons devised to avoid what the
Piemontese see as the ignominy of IGT wines.
The haunting Nebb1olo has no rival as the
finest red grape of northern Italy It does not
have to be grown in Barolo or Barbaresco to
make we ll-structu red, fragrant wine, never
notable for its depth of colour and often
taking on a br1ck1sh tinge with age . Some
seriously worthwhile Nebbiolo d'Alba,
Langhe Nebb1olo, and red Roero are made
nowadays . This last 1s grown in the Roero
hills northwest of Alba on the light, sandy
soils of the River Tanaro's left bank. The
fragrant, pear-scented old local wh ite grape
Arne1s also thrives here, as does Favo rita,
the local name for Vermenti no.
The DOC Lanlh•, on the other hand,
extends south of Alba on the opposite bank
of the river. It has been designed for the
varietal likes of Nebb1olo, Dolcetto, Fre1sa,
Arne1s, Favor1ta, and Chardonnay which
thrive on the heavier clay marls of the
Tan aro'& right bank The many geographically
specific wines prod uced in these Langhe hills,
including Barolo and Barbaresco, may be
declassified to DOC Langhe, either a varietal
version or merely Rosso or Bianco
Monferrato, which may be suffixed
Nebb1olo, has its own extensive DOC to the
north (see map on p 157), while the Piemonte
DOC 1s designed specifically for Barbera,
Brachetto, Chardonnay, Cortese, Gr1gnolino,
Moscato, Uva Rara, and the three Pinots· not
exactly an exclusive c lub.
An embarrassment of riches
Once despised as too common to inspire
respect, Barbera 1s now P1emonte's second
most glamorous red grape. While Nebb1olo
makes pale, tannic wines thatdemand time
and attention, Barbera, treated to ageing in
new French oak barr1ques, can in contrast be
big, bold, and deep purple. Barbera grapes
were traditionally picked earlier than
Nebbiolo, but they need re latively warm sites
and later picking to ensure the ac 1d1ty is
palatable, as growers in Ast1 and Alba have
shown Barbera d'Astl, m general the most
quintessential Barbera, has two official
subzones - Tinella, and Ast1ano or Colli Ast1an1
- Nlzza having been granted its own Barbera­
spec1fic DOCG. Barbera del Monferrato is
produced m virtually the same area as
Barbera d'Ast1; Barbera d'Alba can be a bit
heavier Styles evolve with fas hion
P1emonte's third red grape 1s Dolcetto ,
which will still ripen in the coolest, highest
sites. soft, where Barbera often bites, but
capable of a marvellous balance between
fleshy, dusty-dense, and dry with a touch of
bitter that goes perfectly with rich local
dis hes . It tends to dominate vineyards in the
hills between Alba and the coast, with the
best coming from Alba, Diano d'Alba, Ovada,
and Dogl iani (for its most potent style).
These last two Dolcettos tend to be the
most serious, but Langhe Nebb1olo can be
a more profitable option for any grower
Ceretto has added a glass bubble -like tasting
room and viewing platform to the much more
traditional buildings on its Monsordo ­
Bernardma estate outside A lba.
confident of ripening the more fashionable
vari ety. The local Ruche grape has been
slowly gaining ground, thanks to wines such
as Montalbera's Laccento Ruche di
Castagnole di Monferrato.
Grignollno 1s consistently a lightweight
cherry red but can be a fine and piquant one;
at its best (from Ast1 or Monferrato
Casalese) clean and stimulating. All these are
wmes to drink relatively young.
Moscato is Piemonte's signature white
grape, responsible for sparkling Asti and,
from the same area, distinctly superior, fizzy
Moscato d'Astl, the epitome of sweet
Muscat grapes m their most celebratory
form. It also has the considerable merit of
contam mg less alcohol - only about 5% -
than virtually any other wine. It can amaze
and delight guests after a heavy dinner
White Cortese grapes are grown south of
Alessandr1a to produce still-fashionable dry
Gavl (see p 157) Nascetta makes complex
white wine capable of extended bottle age ing
and plantings have been inc reasing. Other
spec1alit1es of this prolific region include
another frothy sweet red wine, Brachetto
d'Acqul, light red Verduno from Pelave rga
grapes, sweet pink or red Malvasla di
Casorzo d 'Astl, the mterestmg yellow wine
Erbaluce di Cal uso DOCG (the sweet form,
Caluso Passito, Is made from sem1-dr1ed
grapes; the sparkling one benefits from
prolonged lees ageing), and Frelsa, often from
Asti, a fizzy and freq uently sweet red wine
not unlike a tarter, less fr uity form of
Lambrusco that 1s either loved or loathed
Alta Langa DOC was created in 2002 for an
mcrea ·mg vol ume oftrad 1t1onal method fizz
No one has ever accused P1emonte of a
paucity of grapes, flavours or names

To rino
The Nascetta grape has
its own Langhe subzone
Novello. Notable amond
the 20-odd producers
are Elvio Cogno, Le
Strette, and Vietti.
Asti and Moscato d'Ast1 DOCG
Barbaresco DOCG
Barbera d 'AJba DOC
Barbera d'Ast1 DOCG
Barolo DOCG
Brachet
t
o d'Acqu1 DOCG
Colhna Tonnese DOC
Dolcet
to
d'Alba DOC
Dolcet
to
d'Astl DOC
Dolcet
to
dt Dia no d'Alba DOCG
Dogllani DOCG
Grlenoltno d 'Ash DOC
GnR1
1
ollno del Monferrato casalese DOC
LansheDOC
Nebbtolo d'Albl DOC
Ntzza DOCG
Roero DOCG
Ruch� d1 Castagnole Monfer
r
ato DOCG
l 365,00
0
KmO
10Km
Molet
O
!"
----
"'-
---.-
..
..:.;:
:.,
.:
::
:.
___
�
lOMol.
Prov1nc1a boundary
Vineyards
Woods
Contour Interval 100 metres
[1!D Area mapped at laraer scale
on page shown
P1emonte NORTHWEST ITALY · ITALY
1H
'
-\ S Salvatore
�nferrolo
\-" ·
THE HEART OF PIEMONTE
This is the map we call "spaghetti junction" for
its convergence of so many nearly overlapping
DOCs and DOCGs - and those illustrated are
by no means exhaustive. The Alba-Asti axis is
the key one.
•I
c
0
0
T
•
•
'
o

1tl0
ITA LY · NORTHWEST ITALY
Barbaresco
Nebblolo finds its most dazzling expression
in the Langhe hills, on the calcareous clay
soils of the right bank of the River Ta naro,
to the northeast of Alba In the Barbaresco
zone, and to the southwest of the city
around the village of Barolo (see overleaf).
Flat vineyards do not exist in the Langhe hills,
but precise position, aspect, and elevation are
key to whether the slope 1s devoted to
Barbera, Dolcetto, or the late-ripening
Nebbiolo. In the past, the finest wine, Nebb1olo
ofcourse, tended to come from slopes with a
southern tilt that were not too high: between
about 490 and 1,150ft (150 and 35Q.m), with
1,640ft (500m) the offi cial maximum
elevation. Summers have been getting
warmer, however, and growers ever more
skilful, so that it seems possible that eve n
higher plantings may eventually be al lowed.
Today, the grower and his or her vineyard
(the term bric or br1cco often being used for
specific d1stingu1shed sites) hold the key to
Barolo and Barbaresco. Tastings reveal
consistent differences of character, qual ity,
aroma, potency, and finesse and yet the
emergence of these great wines from the
The 11th-century tower above Barbaresco
has sprouted a v1ewmg gallery offering
a 360-degree view of the Alps and rolling
vineyards, green m spring and summer,
red and golden m autumn
limbo of legend into the cr1t1cal limelight has
been accomplished only since the 1980s And
st ill, despite the best efforts of marketing
genius and Barbaresco native Angelo Gaja,
Barbaresco languishes somewhat in the
shadow of Barolo.
In the 1990s in particular, when some
consumers seemed wary ofta nnin, and
over-impressed by depth ofcolour and
obvious fr uit, some Barbaresco (and Barolo)
producers we re tem pted away from the local
trad1t1on of long extraction and extended
ageing in huge old casks. They experi mented
with stai nless steel fe rmentations, shorter
macerat ions and shorter ageing periods
in new French barriques. For a while much
was made of Barolo's two warring factions
But this century has seen a general, if not
unanimous, return to older methods Most
producers today keep the wine on the skins
for 30 to 40 days, with the cap of skins kept
submerged , and manage to demonstrate
that tough, fr uitless wines are general ly a
thing of the past
The virtues of age
However it 1s made, Barbaresco is always a
tan nic wine that needs to age, one in which
the tan nin merely frames a stu nning array of
haunting flavours. Great Barolos and
Barbarescos can overlay smoky woodland
notes on deep sweetness, the flavour of
ras pberries on leather and spice, leafy
lightness on a rich base Older wines advance
to an imal or tarry flavours, sometimes
suggesting wax or incense, someti mes roses,
sometimes mushrooms or truffles and dried
cherry What unites them is the racy cut of
their tan nins and ac idity, fres hening rather
than overwhelming the palate.
Although there has been considerable new
planting, Barbaresco, with 1,811 acres (733ha)
in 2014, has less than half as much vineyard
as Barolo. The village of iust 650 people hes
on a ridge that wobbles west towards Alba,
fl anked all the way by vineyards of renown
As11i, Martinenga, and RabaJa are bywords fo r
the finest reds. A litt le lower and to the east
lies Ne1ve, where the Castello, owned by
Count Cavour (see pp.162-63), grows more
Barbera, Dolcetto, and, especially, Moscato,
than N ebbiolo. Indeed, Barbera was the
dominant grape variety in Barbaresco until
the 1990s, when thrilling Nebbiolo emerged
fro m some of Neive's best sites.
South on higher slopes, some of which are
too cool to ripen Nebb1olo and are therefore
more suitable for Dolcetto, lies the commune
of Treiso, whose Nebb1olo tends to be
particularly elegant and perfumed Historically
Paiore was the most important cru.
Roncaghette produces wines with the sort
of balance so characte r1st1c of those made
around the village of Barbaresco to the north.
The author1t1es have d1v1ded the entire
Barbaresco zone into contiguous subzones,
some of very much better qual ity than others.
Only the best Barbaresco vineyards are
marked on the map opposite, named
ac cord ing to how they are most likely to be
found on a label (although spellings vary -
especially since P1emonte has its own dialect)

It was G1acosa's
Santo Stefano, fr om
t"- Albesanl cru, that
did much to demonstrate
that Barbaresco could
be every bit as good as
Saro/o. To day, Santo
Stefano Albesam is
mad• exclus1 vely by
th• Castello di Ne1ve.
Ing producers
o G1acosa had shown in
1960s that Barbaresco
liruld have the intensity (if not
iJways
the sheer phys ical weight) of
e.ro10, but 1t was arguably Angelo GaJa
�o did most to put Barbaresco on the
ma,p. In a dazzhng Mlssonl sweater, this
chisel-featured evangelist strode onto the
world stage as Italy's wine prophet and
unstoppable promoter. Gaja had utter
confidence in the quality of his decidedly
non-traditional wines. and in what people
1 46,00
0
KmO
IKm
Milo.0
should pay for them He
invented his own names for
his fa bulously expensive
single-vineyard bottlings: Sorl
San Lorenzo, Sorl Tildin, and Costa
Russi. Then, in 2000, he announced
that he was re nouncing the name he
had made so fa mous and would sell
them not as Barbaresco but as DOC
Langhe Nebb1olo, the catch-al l
appellation for declassified Barolo
and Barbaresco, and for wines
contai ning up to 15% of "foreignu
var1et1es such as Cabernet,
Merlot, and Syrah. From the
2013 vintage these top GaJa
wines have once more been sold
as Barbaresco, and as Angelo's
daughter Gala Gaja increases her
infl uence, 1t seems hkely that the brand
names may be dropped ln fav our ofthe
names of the crus responsi ble for them.
Large old-style casks can now be seen
Barbaresco NORTHWEST ITALY • ITALY
111
IMilo
•A11t•A11t1sco•• NOTID
VINllYAlltDS
Barbaresco, fo r so lon1 the
also-ran, Is plnln1 In stature
and renown with every vlntap.
Asfll and Santo Stefano are two
of the best sites, althou1h
An1elo G-.Ja, kln1 of the vlllqe of
Barbaresco, wo uld presumably
cite some others.
t
Commune boundary
Barbaresco DOCG
NEIVE Commune
Fuel
Noted Vineyard
c=J Vineyards
Woods
20
0
-
Contour interval 25 metres
rubbing shoulders with the fa mous French
barr1ques in the GaJa cellars.
Other outstanding producers in
Barbaresco today include not only G1acosa,
Marchesi d1 Gresy, and the excellent
Prod uttor1 del Barbaresco co-op, but
Caretto for its Br1cco Asih, C1ghut1, Giuseppe
Cortese, Moccagatta, F1orenzo Nada, R1zz1,
Albino Rocca, Bruno Rocca, and Sott1 mano.
But historical ly a much higher proportion
ofthe grapes were sold to the region's
large merchant bottlers and co-operatives
than in Barolo.
The prox1m1ty of the Tanaro river 1s
thought to have a moderating influence on
the weather in Barbaresco, and the harvest
Is often earlier than 1n Barolo. Barbaresco
1s also generally released after two, rather
than Barolo's th ree, years ofageing, so the
wines can be slightly more approachable
in youth - which can be an advantage for
today's fre netic wine consumers. It 1s hard
to argue that they are less fine.
�
I
I
c
c
o
D
T
E
T
'
'G

182
ITALY · NORTHWEST ITALY
Baro lo
At vintage time In Barolo the hills are
often half-hidden by fog. Ramps of copper
and gold vines emerge from the lower
slopes, some stlll dedicated to hazelnuts
for Nutella. It Is a magical ex perience
to visit the region, truffled up, and
marvelling at the dark grapes coming
In through the mist.
The Barolo zone startsjust 2 miles (3. 2km)
southwest ofBarbaresco, with the Dolcetto
vineyards of Diano d'Alba lying between, and
1s subject to many of the same infl uences and
character1st1cs al ready described on p.160.
Two litt le tr1butar1es of the Tanaro split
Barolo into the three main, though highly
convoluted, ranges of hills mapped oppos ite,
rising nearly 165ft (50m) higher than the
Barbaresco zone. It may seem strange to
have quite so many named vineyards in only a
few square kilometres, but the contour lines
alone help to explain why. One name can be
very much more valuable than another
Not before time, Barolo has joined Bordeaux
and burgundy on the most av id wine
collector's shopping hst, with predictable
results on the price of both wine and vineyard
land . The total vineyard area increased vastly,
more than 50%, between 1999 and 2013, to
4,902 acres (1,984ha). Potential new vineyards
have to show the potential to ripen Nebb1olo
before they are approved Climate change 1s
helping. All Barolo vineyards are concentrated
in this zone, JUSt big enough for 11 communes
in the relatively populous Langhe hills.
So many diffe rent positions, elevations, and
mesochmates - and two main soil types - have
provided endless fodder for the discussion of
possible subzones. And the d1scuss1on only
intensified after some (but by no means all)
communes chose dramatically to extend their
best crus in the 2011 official listing, notably
Monforte d'Alba's ge nerous 736 acres (298ha)
of Bussia. Have they considered how extension
means deval uation?
The eut-weat divide
Now that transparency and fr eshness are
qualities val ued in a Barolo, Verd uno and its
exceptional Monvlghero cru - not to mention
three overachieving producers, Comm G . B .
Burlotto, Fratell1 Alessandria, and Castello
di Verduno - have emerged as a source of
particularly fine Barolo.
South of here and to the west of the Alba
road around La Morra, soils are very similar
to those In Barbaresco, calcareous marls
fro m the epoch geologists know as Tortonlan.
La Morra is the largest commune by far, with
elevations varying between 656 and 1,640ft
(200 and 500 m), so 1t 1s impossible to
generalize about Its wines, although Rocche
dell'An nunz1ata 1s recognized as its finest site.
The commune of Barolo tends to prod uce
slightly less tense, more openly fragrant wines
than most. The great vineyards here include
Brunate, Cereq ulo, and the fa mous Cannub1
on slightly lower grou nd.
To the east, however, in the vineyard s of
Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba, and
those to the north of Monforte d'Alba, soils
are based on sandstone and are much less
fe rtile They tend to prod uce even more
concentrated wines which demand extremely
long age ing. Some vineyards in Castllllone
Falletto prod uce wines with notable elegance,
while those of Serralunga are often marked by
pronounced firmness The spur of land that
d1v1des the valleys ofSerralunga and Barolo
can also produce distinctive wines, combining
the power of Serralunga and the perfume of
Castiglione Faletto and northern Monforte
Prime exam ples include Buss1a and Ginestra in
Monforte and, in Castiglione Falletto, Viett1's
and Brov1a's Villero, Mascarello's Monpr1vato,
The autumn truffle season and Alba's truffle
fa ir, the Fiera lnternaziona/e de/ Ta rtufo
Bianco d'A/ba, draws fa r more people to the
tables of the stunning restaurants m the
Langhe hills than to the woods where two - and
four-legged hunters sniff out the truffles
and Cavallotto's Vigna San G iuseppe, grown In
a spectacular amphitheatre w1th1n its very
own Br1cco Bosch1s vineyard . Serralunp
d'Alba 1s home to the revered Francia cru,
owned exclusively by Giacomo Conterno, and
to the former royal estate of Fontanafredda,
an association that helped develop Barol o's
status as "the wine of kings, the king of wmes"
The commune has some of Barolo's highest
vineyards, but enough warmth builds up m thf
narrow valley that separates Serralunga. from
Monforte d'Alba to the west to compensate
for the elevation, so that most years Nebb1olo
can be ripened on suitable sites Grlnzane
Cavour in the far northeast of the zone is
arguably b st known for its Castello, the
estate of Camillo Benso, count of C v 0 u r

who was the 'first prime minister of united
Italy (in 1861). In 1836-41, he employed Paolo
Francesco Staglleno as oenolog1st, giving him
the task of producing a .,
,
ne Nebb1olo wine
capable of agemg . Stagheno's solution was
to fe rment the wines dry (Barolo, llke most
ltahan wines 1n those days, inclined to be
sweet and possibly fizzy).
Today, Barolo can boast dozens of growe r ­
bottlers ("domaines" seems a better word
than "estates" for this most Burgu ndian of
Italy's wine regions). Traditions here are, as
m Burgundy, that the same fam ily that tends
the vines makes the wi ne. Indeed, v1vac1ous,
expressive, almost burgu ndian wine 1s the new
rule here, whether made the old way - slowly m
Barolo NORTHWEST ITALY . ITALY
1e3
aA"OLO'S NOT•D VtN•YA"DS
While Nebblolo thrive• throu1hout the entire
northwHt of Italy, Barolo i• It• holy 1rail. The
parcellated vineyard •tructure here reHmbl••
that of Bur1undy, and the ftckle Nebblolo I• able
to expre•• even the 1ubtle1t dlft'erencH
between vineyard patch••·
1 5",00
0
Commune boundary
Barolo DOCG
IA MORRA Commune
Bria:ohna Noted vineyard
Vineyards
Woods
_,00·
Contour interval 25 metres
Fo reign investors have been
invading Barolo and inflating
land prices there, but the
Giacomo Conterno estate
managed to snatch the Arione
cru fr om American buyers .
large casks - or in a more modernist form by
the likes of Elio Altare and Roberto Voerz10.
No one 1s right, and only those who decided to
ignore the unique qualities of th1s grape and
this place wo uld be wrong. Good Barolo 1s
arguably the world's most uncompromising
wine, depending on decades of bottle-age to
show its true al lure, its ethereal bouquet.
c
o
0
T
E
T

164
Northeast Italy
The cosmopolitan area mapped opposite
is now Italy's most prolific producer of
wine - most of it white - including the twin
mass-market favo urites, Prosecco and
Pinot Grigio.
Te rroir Much of the land planted with vines
is relatively flat and low, although the best
wines tend to come from higher ground.
Climate Generally mild winters and hot
summers with regular rai nfall. Vineyards
around Lake Garda enjoy an almost
Mediterranean climate.
Grapes W: Giera, Garganega, Friulano/Tai
Bianco, Ve rd uzzo, various international
varieties; R: Lambrusco, Corvina, Cabernet
Franc, Merlot, Raboso, Sangiovese
The most popular wine of Italy, and of yo ung
fe male drinkers around the wo rld, is Ve nice's
lubricant, sparkhng Prosecco, most of it
made not in bottle as champagne is but in
vast tanks. So great 1s world demand for this
easy- drinking fizz that the prod uction area
was expediently enlarged in 2008 to
encompass nine entire provi nces (see the
massive area enclosed by a pink boundary
on the map) And to protect their precious
Prosecco from imitation, the producers
changed the name of the grape responsible
to "Giera" and registered its original name
"Prosecco" as a geographical name so as to
keep it for themselves.
But not all Prosecco 1s made to a price The
finest versions come from the hilly heartland
of th1& vast region, qualifying as Conelllano
Valdo bbladene DOCG (may also be labelled u
Prosecco Superlore), with the hill of Cartizze
having a particularly elevated reputation.
AM>!o P�o DOCG to the immediate
outh 1 al o good. There is increasing interest
in bone-dry col fo ndo (or sur lie) Prosecco
sold "with sediment" still in the bottle.
The other sparkling white wine region on
this map, in the far west, 1s less fa mous.
Franciacorta, south of Lake lseo, has been
maki ng metodo classico sparkling wine since
the Berlucch1 fa mily made a direct 1mitat1on
of champagne in the 1970s. The leading
producer Ca' del Bosco's Cuvee Annamaria
Clementi is sti ll one of Italy's finest sparkling
wines. But much of the excitement today 1s
in the hands of a new generation producing
the terroir-dr1ven equivalent ofgrowers'
champagnes, made from fu lly ripe grapes
and with zero (need for) dosage
The intensive Veneto wine belt 1s described
in detai l on pp.1 68-69. Its western extreme
prod uces an appeahng dry white from the
south end ofLake Garda, based on its own
local relative of the Verdicch10 grape, known
simply as LuganL As so often in ltahan wine
history and geography, the lakeside zone
responsible for the fl nest wi nes, from
calcareous soils, has been extended, in this
case onto heavier soils of the plains and hills
to the south So Lugana 1s now variable, to
say the l east. Ca' dei Frati and Ca' Lojera
have shown that Lugana can be worth
ageing; also that this territory has potential
for fu lly ri pened reds, as well as the hght
red Bardollno and pink Ch1aretto versions
tou rists quaff Both of these, made from
the same grapes as Val pohcella, are
made to be drunk you ng, preferably on a
vine shaded terrace.
The Garda name has been given to the
catch-ail DOC that allows blending of local
and international varieties In the standard ­
issue Veneto zo nes of Soave, Valpolicella,
and Blanco di Custoza. This last dry white,
made to the south, can be a surer bet than
basic Soave, while in Gambellara, to the
east, Ang1ohno Maule and Giovan ni Ment1
Prosecco at Its ffnt1st co,,
,.
.
it'om Ooneg/1ano
Va/dobb1adene, where vineyard$ can be so
steep that pulleys are needed to transport
the harvest.
make some of the pure$t expressions of
Garganega, albeit most ofthem sold as IGTs.
Wines are much more varied east of here.
Verduzzo and the grape now known both as
Fr1 ulano in Fr1 uh and Tai Bianco in the Veneto
are the white grapes of the Venetian h1nterlandi
while light Cabernet (Franc mainly) and Merlot,
supplemented by the uncompromising but
locally admired Raboso, dominate the plains of
Piave and Lison-Pramag
gl
ore.
On green volcan ic islands in the plain near
V1cenza and Padova are the increasingly
successful Colli Berici and Colli Euganei, the
latter home to many old vineyards ripe for
development, and the sweet sparkhng
Moscato G1allo called Colli Euganei Fior
d'Arancio DOCG The red grapes are the
Cabernets and Merlot of Bordeaux and
Grenache, known locally as Tai Rosso, which 1&
the classic Berici red. White wine grapes are.Il
l
mix of international and traditional Gargan�
ofSoave; Giera; hght and sharp Verd1so; and
the more solid Fr1 u lano, now called Tai Bianca
in its own Lison DOCG (see p.171).
Breganze, north of V1cenza, 1s an instance
of a DOC brought to prominence (hke
Franciacorta) by one fa natical winemaker.
Inspired by Chateau d'Yquem, Fausto Maculan
resurrected the old Venetian taste for sweet
wines from dried local Vespa1ola grapes with
his go lden Torcolato Contra Soarda makes a
particularly satisfying dry Vespa1ola.
As can be seen clearly from the map, the
valley of the River Po as it flows across the
plain southeast ofMilan to the Adr1at1c 1s wide
and flat - not the most prom1s1ng wine
country Only one Po Valley wine name 1s
fa mous - for some, infamous - the sparkling
red Lambrusco from around Modena, above
al l from Sorbara. There 1s something decidedly
appetizing about this vivid wine, bursting with
red - berry flavours, and its unusual br1ght- p1nk
foam ing head It cuts the fa tty richness of
Bolognese food ad mirably Producers such as
Francesco Belle1 are pushing the boundaries
of Lambrusco d1 Sorbara, prod ucing classic
wines in various ways, including fr izzante
(hghtly sparkling) and the metodo ancestrale
(bottle-fermented wines sold with sed iment)
that was trad1t1onal until the more industrial
tank method largely took over in the 1970s.
A new generation 1s now lead ing the region
back to its traditional dry style. Paltr1nier1 1s
maki ng single-vineyard Lambruscos, while
Belle1 and Cant1na della Volta are making
increasingly serious metodo class1co ones,
the best being their pink versions
The reputation of Emilia Romagna (1n the
south of th1s map) as a wine producer 1s also
growing, despite some dreary wines from th•

\.-.
)
co ops that predomi nate. The hills around
Bologna, the Col
ll
lloto.
.,.
.
I, now produce
tome very respectable Cabernet, Merlot, and
Chardonnay, as wel l as the local white
P1gnoletto, to be fo und in a cloudy, sweetish,
gently sparkling Pet-Nat version The country
south of Bologna and Ravenna st ill produ ces
oceans of varietal Romagna wine, with
T,.
.
bblano di Rornasna the least remarkable
In 1986, Albana di Romasna was the (t hen
puzzlingly) fi rst white wine 1n Italy to be
elevated to DOCG status. Like so
,,
,.
NORTHEAST ITALY • ITALY
111
m any ltah an whites, it comes in all levels of
sweetne ss. Some of the best, includ ing the
dried -grape Scacco Matto passito version, are
made by Zerbina. Skin ·fe rmented versions,
made as was once traditional, show promise.
and overcropped, but 1t can also be gutsy and
sophisticated Indeed, some of the S.n11ove1e
clones chosen by d11cerning Tuscan
producers come from Romagna. The Conv1to
d1 Romagna group of local producers requires
its members to make at least one singte­
vineyard Sang1ovese.
This huge zone's red, Sanslovese di
Romagna, 1s even more variable. It can be thin
OSTERREICH
Plnot Griglo has become so
threatened by domestic and
mternat1onal copies that in 2017
the first DOC encompassmg
three regions (Veneto, Fr iuli·
Ve nezia G1ulta, and Tr entmo) was
created. The DOC de/le Ve nezle
allows other varieties, too.
-
..
.
,,
Grado
Raboso has its own DOCG, Piave
Malanotte, north of Ve nice, with
its naturally high acid levels
increasingly cherished as
temperatures rise. A second,
smaller DOCG south ofthe city,
Bagnoli Frlu/aro, is fo r a dry,
Amarone-style wine made fr om
dried Raboso grapes.
lntemahonal boundary
Reg1one boundary
CASTELLHR Red wme
COLLI
BOLOGNBSI Red and white wme
Lugaoa White wine
DOCG/DOC boundaries are d1sbngu1shed
by coloured Imes
Land abo.
.e
60
0
metres
�
Area mapped at larger scale
�
onpageshown
I 1,415,00
0
J'
KmO
20
«I
ol()
IOK.o
fo-
-.
..
-.
..
-.-
..
..
..
.
-.
..
-.
..
..
..
.
..
..
..
-.
..
..,.
.
-.
..
--'
..
..
..,
-.
..
-.
..
-.
..
�
��o
�
20
20
«>
�-
•I•
•
c
D
T
'
'
F
G"

166
ITALY · NORTHEAST ITALY
Trentino and Alto Adige
A
•
The Adige Valley fo rms the dramatic
corridor Into the Alps that links Italy with
Austriaover the Brenner Pass. It 1s a
rock· lined trench, widening in places to give
views of distant peaks but also, hke the
Rhone Valley, an inevitably crowded north­
south link with all the valley-floor excesses of
traffic and industry that go with 1t.
Its best vineyards form a lovely contrast to
the thundering traffic below. They pile up
every avai lable slope from river to rock wal ls
m a pattern ofpergolas that m summer look
f
from above like deeply leafy steps
c
0
0
y
l
'
The catch-all DOC for the whole valley 1s
Trentino. The valley grows vast quantities
of P1not Gr1gio (by popular demand), and
Chardonnay for metodo class1co sparkling
wme (the lively Trento DOC) at ever higher
elevations in order to achieve sufficient
natural acidity. Ferrari 1s the leading
producer, Giulio Ferrari R1serva del
Fondatore their finest, long-aged fizz.
In the far south, somewhat in isolation,
San Leonardo makes one of the wo rld's most
refined Bordeaux blends on river deposits
that bear some resemblance to the Medoc -
as does the wine. Further north, each part of
the valley has its own speciality - indeed, its
own indigenous grape. On the way to Trento,
for example, the snaking gorge known as the
Vallagarma is home to Marzemino, a
perfumed, light-bodied, historic red
Eugenio Rosi makes an excellent
example from partially dried grapes.
From the northern end ofTrentino
comes purple Teroldego, grown on the
cliff-hemmed, pergola-carpeted,
gravelly plain known as the Campo
Rotaliano between Mezzolombardo and
Mezzocorona. Te rolde10 RotaJiano is one
ofItaly's great characters, with hallmark
bracing acidity and the hint of bitterness that
marks 1t as a native. The unrivalled queen
offine, fu lly ripe Te roldego Rotal lano is
Elisabetta Foradori. Her improved clones,
and experi ments with fe rmenting m
amphoras, impress her clients more than
they do the authorities, so she sells them
as IGT V1gneti delle Dolom1t1.
The eastern Ad1ge slopes round San
Michele are particularly suitable fo r white
wine grapes, and for international red
varieties, too.
The Valle dei Lagh1, west of the main valley
with its three small lakes, grows the same
wide range ofgrapes (all these zones grow
good sparkling base wine), but special izes m
h11h- quallty sweet Vino Santo from another
revived indigenous variety, the increasingly
ad mired Nos1ola. Fragrant, often dry,
versions of Nos1ola are gam ing a following
TRENTINO
Trentlno's most fa mous wine Is the dry,
bottle-fe rmented sparkhng wine sold
as Trento DOC, with Chardonnay, plus
a bit of Plnot Bianco and Plnot Nolr, the
dominant varieties.
I•
1 257,00
0
Alto Adlae (SOdtlroll DQC
Casteller DOC
Valdad11e (Etschtaler) [)()(;
Caldaro (Kalterer) DOC
Teroldego Rotallano DOC
Trentino DOC
Trento DOC
V a ld 1 d111• Terrade1fort1 o
Terrade
Tl
ort1oor
Prov1nc11 bo�ndary
• l'l!1UWU Notable prod� er
V"r1eyard
Wo0
0
..:irto rt r�J

today In o;uch parcellated terrain, co-ops
necessarily dominate - but 1 Dolom1tic1 is an
1nnovat 1ve group of producers seeking out
•xcepti onal old vi neyards and providing a
more 1d1osyncrat 1c alternative.
NtoAdlS•
Sltuated at the southern tip of Austria's
Tyrol, Alto Adil• 1s Italy's most northerly
wtne region. Its Alpine peaks overlook a
cultural and v1t1cultural melting pot German
la a more common language than Italian, yet
French grape varieties have been more
widespread than Teuto nic ones. Its vineyards
produce both the racy, fruity, varietal whites
on which its modern re putation is based, and
varieties that prod uce serious red wines in
warmer parts ofthe regio n . Bolzano can
bake in summer, although the slopes above
the town, with their intricate system of
locally val ued crus, can benefit from cool
!'lights, and afternoon breezes off the lakes.
Irrigation 1s generally essential. Most wines
are sold under the blanket DOC Alto Ad1ge
(SOdt1rol) plus the name of the grape Co-ops
are responsible for about 70% ofwine
prod uction here.
Production 1s centred on the benchland and
lower slopes of the Ad1ge Valley above a sea of
apple orchards. Vineyard elevations vary from
650 to almost 3,300ft (200-1 ,000 m) but
1,150-1 ,BOOft (350-550 m) 1s best for avoiding
frost and opt1m1z1ng ripeness.
Higher vineyard s, often steep and terraced
as in the Valle Venosta (Vinschgau) to the
northwest and Valle lsarco (E1sacktal)
northeast of Bolzano (see p.165 for both) are
especially good for Riesling, Sylvaner, Kerner,
and various Veltliners now that climate
change ensures grape ripening.
On slightly lower slopes Chardonnay, Pinot
Gr1gio, and Pmot Bianco, which has become
Alto Ad1ge's signature variety, manage to be
both fruity and lively. Si ngle-vineyard Pinot
81ancos such as Cantina Terlano's Vorberg
deserve to be and are taken seriously, both
ALTO ADIGE: BOLZANO
Latitude / Eleva tion of WS
46.46° / 790ft (241 m)
Average growing eason tem peratu re at WS
64.1°F (17.B 'C)
Ave rage annual rainfall at WS
23.Sin (596mm)
Harve t month ra infall at WS
October: 2 .1 i n (54mm)
Prindpal viticultural hazards
Spring fro sts
Pri ncipal grape varielie
W: Pinot Grigio, Plnot Bianco, Chardonnay,
Gewurztraminer; R: Schiava, Lagrcin,
Pinot Noir
I'
Tre ntino and Alto Ad1ge NORTHE AST ITALY · ITALY
1.-r
young and after cellaring Terlano also
has a reputation fo r its alpine take
on Sauv1gnon Blanc, another
variety at which Alto Adige can
excel. Here, instead of the usual
wh ite outcrops of calcareous soils
moved by ancient glaciers, 1s hard
gran itic porphyry, spec1ftcally
trumpeted on labels. For obvious
reasons, the Tram mer grape 1s
associated with the village ofTram in
(Termeno 1n ltahan) south of Bolzano.
Here, Hofstatter's 1s particularly
notable, while T1efenbrunner, most
unusually, produces interesting M uller­
Thurgau with its Fe ldmarschall bottling.
The most widely planted red wine grape
by far is Schiava (alias Vernatsch, and also
grown in Trentino), whose industrially
produced wines, though popular m Germany,
are too pale, soft, and simple to earn much
respect for the variety. Younger producers,
however, are fa shioning exciting, ageworthy
wines from old, pergola-trained Sch1ava vines.
The local Lagrein, originally grown around
Bolzano, tends to prod uce darker wines,
including the deeply fr uity rose Lagrein­
Kretzer and even deeper Lagrein- Dunkel ,
both of which have ageing potential but can
be a little rustic. Nusserhof makes the best
Lagrein, and has been reviving other local
var1et1es such as Blaterle. Red varieties
imported m the 19th century - Merlot,
Cabernet, and particularly Pinot Noir - can
also be very good . Franz Haas has an
enviable reputation for refi ned, long-hved
Pinot No1r and 1s planting this sens1t1ve
variety ever higher, up to 2,950ft (900 m).
Alto Adlp DOC submnes
Meranese (Meraner)
Colh d1 Bolzano (Bozner Le1ten)
Terlano (Terlanerl
Caldaro (Kalterer)
Santa Maddalena (Sankt Magdalener)
Teroldego Rpta hano DOC
Trentmo DOC
Provmc1a boundary
• = Notable producer
Vineyards
Woods
Weather station (WS)
1 235,00
0
ICm0
61Cm
Milo
o
O
t-
-
-
..
._
--._.___._,
A
Milo
o
•I•
''
ALTO ADICH
Alto Adll• 11 the northern part
of the vut area that can 1lve it•
IGT winH the romantic name
Vl1netl dell• Dolomlti (Vineyard•
of the Dolom1tH), althou&h
permitted crop level• are
decidedly unromantic.
t
I
•
I
0
T
E
T
'
..

•
T
168
ITALY • NORTHEAST ITALY
Verona
The hllls of Vero na, stretching from Soave
westwards to Lake Garcia, have such
fertile volcanic soll that vegetation grows
uncontrollably; the vine runs riot on every
terrace and pergola, among villas and
cypresses that are the Image of Italian
grace - not alw11¥s, sadly, reflected in the
wine they produce. For the Veneto has
become Italy's most productive wine region.
High yields, with an official limit of 105hl/ha,
are the bane of quality, especially in Soave
DOC, the Veneto's most important wine
f
zone. Almost 80% of the vineyards are
cultivated by growers who deliver their
grapes straight to the local co-op with no
personal reputation for quality to uphold
The region 1s one ofthe few in Italy with little
evidence of experimentation with new, or
more often a return to trad1t1onal, methods
in the cellar. Increased respect for pergola·
tra.med vines, particularly old vines, is
c
o
D
T
'
T
evident in the vineyard, however Grn1's
Contrada Salvarenza Vecc h1e Vigne from a
100-year-old vineyard shows why
But real Soave is incomparable, with its
insistent combination of almonds and lemons.
A bottle from Pieropan or Anselmi wi ll leave
you in no doubt. In an effort to d1strngu1sh the
authentic from the mass of wine that usurps
its name the authorities have devised two
VERONA: VERO A
La titud e / Elevu t1on of WS
45,38' / 239ft (73m)
t
Ave rage growing season temperature at WS
66.4'F (19.1 'C)
Ave rage annual ra infall at WS
30. Bln (783mm)
Ilarvc t month rainfall at WS
September: 3.21n (81mm)
Pn nnpal v1t1c ultural hnzanh.
Hail, fungal dis ases
J'rim 1pal grape vat wtlt�
W Garganega, Pinot Gr glo; R Corvina, Merlot
I•
superior denominations. Soave Classico
DOC, from the original h1stor1c prod uction
zone, and Soave Superiore DOCG, grown on
the less fe rt ile h1lls1des, have maximum yields
of98hl/ha and 70hl/ha, respectively - which 1s
at least a start.
Such ge nerous yields are far higher than
those actually practised by the top
producers. P1eropan and Anselmi have been
joined by such conscientious companies as
Cantina d1 Castello, La Cappuccina, Coffele,
F1lipp1, G1m, lnama, Pra, modernist Suav1a,
/solo d1
V'<> Gardo
/
(''
I''
I
'
'
I
Lago : di Gorda
I•
I
'
'
irmionJ
-
Winters can be cold, very cold, in the Ve neto.
Th ese vineyards are in Arbizzano in the far
southeast of the Va/police/la C/ass1co zone, the
origin al heartland of a wine region that has
been much extended.
and Tamellim. With the exception of Filippi
in Soave Colli Scaligeri , the highest part
of the DOC, they all operate 1n the original
area of Soave Class1co, centred on the
eastern end ofthe Lessrni hills northeast
of the village of Soave.
Peschiero
del Gorda
CO Dr Cl.5TOZ \
Castelnuovo
del Gorda

The important grapes are Garganega and
Verd 1cch10 (called Trebb1ano d1 Soave here),
which make wines ofan intensity and
mouth fllling texture that bring the meaning
of Soave (suave) into foc us. Pinot Blanc and
Chardonnay are also allowed, ofte n to
ad d ballast to overproduced Garganega,
so long as Garganega makes up at least
70% of the wine.
The best producers typically make a
range of single-vineyard or cru botthngs,
expressing such characterful local sites as
V1gneto La Rocca and Cap1tel Foscarino, and
some, such as Pra, make fine Soave in oak.
Recloto di Soave is a wonderfully lively, and
historic, sweet DOCG version made fr om
dried grapes.
Soave cohabits with Valpolicella, whose
DOC zone has been extended far beyond the
original Class1co zone until 1t reaches the
DRIED-GRAPE WINES
boundaries ofSoave The improvi ng
Valpantena 1a a perm itted 1ubzone,
dominated so far by Bertanl and the local
co op. Plai n Valpolicella should have a lovely
cherry colour and flavour, lively ac 1d1ty, a
gentle smell of ri pe fr uit, and just a trace of
almond bitterness. The m ass- produced
article rarely does, but there are now as
many producers here as in Soave who
recognize the need to make truly disti nctive
as opposed to commercially viable wine - and
the last decade of the 20th century saw a
return to some of the more d1fficult·to- work
but higher- qual ity h1lls1de sites, high enough
to benefit from increasingly essential cooling
breezes from Lake G ard a.
New wave producers such as Monte
dall'Ora, Monte de1 Ragni, Corte Sant'Alda,
Musella, and newcomers Eleva and Monte
Santocc10 (whose winemaker Nicola Ferrari
Ve rona NORTHEAST ITALY • ITALY
1H
worked for the ad mired late G 1uaeppe
Qumtarelli) all follow organic or biodynamlc
pri nciples in the vineyard . Here, too,
pergola-trai ned vines that can shade the
grapes fr om relentless su nshine have been
reassessed, notably those in white- pebbled
vineyards on dry- sto ne-walled terraces
called marogne
Most superior Val pohcella 1s grown In
the Clualco zone on four fingers ofslopes
sheltering Fumane, San Ambrog10, and
Negrar, but there are exceptional operators
such as Dal Fo rno and Trabucch1 el sewhere.
Neutral Rond mella grapes and the relatively
tart Molinara are allowed, but late ripening
Corvina 1s the key ingred ient m fine
Val pollcella. There is also experimentation
with rarer indigenous grapes such as
Oseleta and Corvinone, pioneered by Masi,
among others
The mo t potent form o f Valpolicella i a Recioto or Amaron e, re pectively
the sweel (occasionally fizzy) and drier (also biller) res ults of dry i n g
elected, healthy grapes off the vine to make more oncentrated and potent
wines Such heady pro ductions are the direct de cendant of the Greek
wrne hipped by the Ve netian in the Middle Ages, and are no longer rari ties.
Made i n commercial quantities ince Bertani promulgated the tyle in the
1960s, Amarone has been a huge · ucces with fa n of alcohol and a bit o f
s ugar. Ju ta there are more and more i ngle-vineya rd Va lpolicellas, there
are also ingle-vineyard Amarones.
Careful hygiene is needed when drying the grape , with modern warehouses
co ntrolled for temperature and humidity becoming the norm, bul Meroni
still dries grape traditionally in a hill ide loft above lhe fog that can linger
on the pla in. The old practice of ripasso trengthen Va lpolicella by
refermenting it on the pre ed grape kins, preferably ofCorvina, after an
The Pojega estate boasts one of
Italy's last andgreatest baroque
gardens, which dates fr om the
18th century, and is now owned
by Guerrieri Rizzardi.
Less
ll
marone has Fi ni hed fe rmentation, rn which case it may qualify a
Va lpolicella Superiore or Ripas so, c on tituting a ort of "A marone Lite"
1 227,50
0
�o
w�
1-
-
����� ..
..
..
.
���..
..
..
�--'
�-0
'Molo
o
,.
..
.
Podovo
Vicenza
Prov1nc1a boundary
Vineyards
Woods
Contour interval 100 metres
'Y Weather station (WS)
Garda DOC
Garda Classico DOC
R1v1era del Garda Bresciano DOC
Lugana DOC
Bardohno DOC
Bardohno Supenore DOCG
Bardohno Classico DOC
Bianco di Custoza DOC
Valdad1ge DOC
Valpobcella DOC
Amarone della Valpobcella DOCG
Valpollcella Clas
s
icoDOC
Valpohcella Valpantena DOC
Less1m Durello DOC
Soave DOC
Soave Supenore DOCG
Soave ClaSSICO DOC
Soave Supenore Class1co DOCG
Rec1oto dt Soave Classlco DOCG
Soave Colh Scahge n DOC
Rec1oto d1 Soave DOCG
Gambellara DOC
D
T
E
"f
F
•

170
ITALY · NORTHEAST ITALY
Friuli
Italy's far northeastern corner was
regarded as her powerhouse of fine white
wine production In the early 1970s, being
the first region to make fresh, modern
whites, typically International varietals.
But this style oftechnically perfect, aromatic,
sharply etched whites, however useful, 1s no
longer the height of fashion. Younger Fr1uh
wine producers now have other models -
notably local pioneer of skin-fermented
wines aged in amphora Jo�ko Gravner.
Fr1ult 1s much more extensive than the area
mapped here (see p 165), but we concentrate
on the key DOCs Colli Or1entalt del Fr1ult, in
the northern halfofthe map opposite, and
Co ll10 Goriz1ano, named afte r the province of
Gor1z1a but more often than not cal led simply
"Colho", in the southern halfofthe map. The
vineyards of western Primorska have also
been included because although they are
poht1cally part of Slovenia (and are therefore
descri bed in detail on p.268), they belong
geographically to Fr1ult Some producers
even have vineyard s on both sides of the
border As elsewhere 1n Italy, there are wine
co ope ratives 1n Fr1ul1 but unlike Italy's other
notable source ofrefreshing dry wh ites,
Trentino -Alto Ad 1ge, Fr1 ult 1s essentially
dominated by fa mily- owned wine prod ucers.
The vineyards of Colli Orlentall, although
protected from harsh north winds by the
Julian Alps in Slovenia to the northeast, are
margi nally cooler and certai nly more
continental than those ofColl10, which are
closer to the tem pering infl u ence of the
Ad riatic. These "easterr hills", or Colli
Orientah, although reaching elevations of
between 330 and 1,150ft (100'and 350 m)
above sea level, were once below 1t, and the
soils sti ll bear thetraces of marl and
sandstone deposits, often layered in the
characte ristic soil type known as "flysch of
Cormons", named after the town in the
centre ofthe map.
The pr1nc1pal grape, known here as Fr1ulano
and in the Veneto as Tai Bianco, is identical
to Sauv1gnonasse, or Sauv1gnon Vert . It can
be rather crude elsewhere, but 1t seems to
thrive in these hills The ub1qu1tous Pinot
Gr1g10, Pinot Bianco, Sauv1gnon Blanc, and
local spec1ahty Verduzzo are also widely
grown, but a good third ofthe vineyards of
Colh Or1entah are d evoted to the production
of increasingly accomplished red wine
"Cabernet" and, particularly, Merlot have
dominated, but the local Refosco, P1gnolo,
and, especially, Schioppettino (effect ively
resc ued from extinction by Ronch1 d1 C1alla),
are becoming increasingly popular Most of
the Cabernet planted in Fr1 uli was long
thought to be Cabernet Franc (sometimes
spelled Frank), but some is the old Bordeaux
variety Carmenere. Parts of the Colli
Or1entalt fe el more al pine than maritime, but
the southwestern end between Buttr10 and
Manzano 1s warm enough to ripen even
Cabernet Sauv1gnon Climate change and
better winemaking both contribute to the
conti nuing upgrade in ge neral red wine
qual ity here, although some ofthe less
glorious prod ucers grow a wider range of
varieties, of both colours, than suits therr
terrain, and at too hrgh a yield
Sweet wines
In the far north of the Colli Or1entalt,
around N1m1s to the northwest ofthe area
mapped here (see p.165), the slopes of the
Ramandolo DOCG are steeper and cooler,
The fa mous Josko Gravner 's meticulously
trained Runk vineyard, where he learned to love
Rtbolla Gia/la, ts right on the Slovenian border
Because of trans-border holdings like
Gravner's, there are plans to create the first
supranational DOC Co/110/Brda

and can be damp. Sweet amber Ve rd uzzo
1s the spec1al1ty here A great deal of local
pride 1s also invested in Plcollt, a strong
white varietal dessert wine made anywhere
in the Colli Or1ental i, more hay· like and
flowery, while less pungently honeyed
than Sauternes.
The smaller Colllo DOC to the south of
Coll i Or1entali makes very similar wines,
including the lion's share of Fr1uh's finest
whites, but far fe wer reds, and such reds
as there are often taste light and underr1pe
- particularly 1f autumn rai ns arrive early.
Such 1s the worldwide demand for Pinot
Gr1g10 that this variety long ago overtook
Fr1 ulano and Sauv1gnon Blanc. As in Colli
Oriental!, Chardonnay and Pmot Bianco
are more likely to be lightly oaked than
the other white wine varietals Other local
hght-skmned grape spec1ahties include
Tram mer Aromat1co, Malvasia lstr1ana,
and R1eshng ltahco (Welschr1esling), all
found in Slovenia, too.
But unlike Colli Or1entah, Colho 1s forging
a distinct identity. Colho Bianco 1s a classic
blend of the local Friulano, Ribolla G1alla, and
Malvas1a lstr1ana varieties. A 17th-century
map classifies Col ho vineyards accord ing to
the prices of eac h of these three - a basis
for the introduction of a Collio Class1co
perhaps? H1stor1c R1bolla Gialla, fe rmented
wholly or partly in contact with the grapes'
skins to produce a deep-yellow wine, 1s a
Collio spec1ahty. The influence of G ravner,
,.ased 1n Oslavia between Gor1zia and the
Sloven ian border, on an increasing
proportion of Collio wines, many regarded
�nat ural, cannot be underestimated.
Amphora salespeople are doing well in this
eorner ofthe wine world. Agrochemical
..alespeople are not.
On the whole, the "Cabernet" of Fri u h ­
Venez1a Giulia 1s heartiest to the west of th1s
region, especially in Lison-Pramaggiore (see
.p.165), whereas early- ripening Merlot seems
!:Jetter suited to the large crops and coolish
elimate ofthe Grave del Friuli and Friull
..
.
tsonzo
DOCs. The coastal areas with their
tlat vineyards make less concentrated wines
from these grapes than those from hillside
jP!antat1ons in the Colli Oriental!, although
&onzo, with better-drained vineyards north
t)fthe lsonzo river, has good concentrated
exam ples, too. Competent white wines,
notably Friulano and Pinot Gr1g10, are also
made in l sonzo. Vie di Romans 1s the
-outstand ing prod ucer.
The spec1ahty of C•rso, along the coast
around Trieste, is red Refo sco, known here as
Te rrano, and also widely grown by producers
Just over the border m Slovenia but even
here a wide range of international var1et1es
Is sanctioned by the DOC.
,,
21
FRIULl-VENEZIA GIULIA:
UDINE
La titud e / Elevation ofWS
46.06 ° / 371ft (113m)
Average growing season temperat ure at WS
64.4°F (18.0"C)
Average annual rm nfoll at WS
49.1 in (1,248mm)
Hurve. t month rainfall at WS
S e ptember: 3.9in (99mm)
Pri ncipal viticultural hazards
Underripeness (Cabernet) , downy milde w
P.rincipal grape varieties
W : Pinot Grlglo, Frlulano, Sauvlgnon Blanc,
Chardonnay; R: Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Fr1ul1 NORTHEAST I T ALY · ITA LY
171
F'RIULI AND WISTIRN SLOVEN IA
Brda, the most northwHtern wine re'lon In Slovenia,
11 Included here becauH It 11 ,.o,raphlcally virtually
mdistmiul1habl• from Collio. Small hill• and steep
slopes shape the vineyards, 1ometlmH the same
vineyard, on each 11de of the border. See p.268 for
how this fits Into the greater Slovenian picture.
•I•
• RONCUS
I nternat1onal boundary
Provmc1a boundary
Fnuh-Venezla G1uha DOC
Colh Onentah del Frluh DOC
Colh Onentah del Fnuh PICOllt DOCG
Colho Gonz1ano o Colho DOC
Fnuh lsonzo o lsonzo del Fnuh DOC
Pnmorska wine region,
subregion named
Notable producer
Woods
50
0
-
Contour interval 100 metres
,, Weather stat10n (WS)
•I•
E
T

Central Italy
The heart and perhaps the soul of Italy lie
in this central, slightly westwards skewed
slice of the peninsula: the cities best­
known to foreigners, Florence and Rome,
the iconic countryside of Chianti, the
tombs ofthe Etruscans••• Does It sound
predictable? It Is anything but.
Te rroir The two most character1st1c soils
on the Apennine foothills are galestro,
a local, particularly crumbly variant on
clay-limestone, andthe more solid, heavier
alberese. Local lakes and rivers are
welcome warming influences, as are, of
course, the two seas.
Climate The Apennines can be very cold,
and not just at night, but drought is an
increasing summer bhght.
Grapes R: Sangiovese, Montepulciano;
W: Trebbiano, Ve rdicchio
Elevation, terrain, and above al l ideas vary
enormously here The seas on either side
wash maritime wine regions of wildly differing
characters that are much warmer than on
the hilly, even mountai nous, Apennine spi n e.
Ancient ldent1t1es are thickly overlaid with
creativity and, nowadays, underwritten by
considerable inward investment In this era
of climate change, even the late-r1pen1ng
Sang1ovese can succeed at elevations as high
as 1,970ft (600 m).
The heartland and northeast of the land
mapped here 1s Sang1ovese country, Italy's
most-planted vine, whose wines can vary from
pale, thin, tart mouthwash to the most
sumptuous expressions of Italian gastronomic
brio in a glus At higher elevations 1t needs a
warm 1row1n1 season to ripen fully, and the
results are generally much more delicate than
lower-elevation Sang1oveses. Th11 was
particularly true of the clones selected in the
1970s for their huge yields, regard less of
qual ity Most were replaced by better clones in
the 1990s (although when some remain they
can in some cases add freshness after warmer
s ummers). Sangiovese, which can make
seriously agewo rthy wines, does not naturally
prod uce deep-coloured wines, although the
late-20th-century habit of blending 1n
Cabernet and Merlot compensated for this.
Nowadays, the trend is towards 100%
Sang1ovese wines.
Light- skinned grapes tend to be planted on
higher or less-protected land, and the
dominant Trebb1ano To scano, the wo rkhorse
white grape grown in Sang1ovese country for
more than a century, ge nerally prod uces
pretty dull wine Vermentino 1s fast replacing
Trebbiano as the white wine grape ofchoice,
supplemented by Chardonnay and a bit of
Sauvignon Blanc.
East coast zone•
In the Marche, the Verdlcchlo del Castelli di
Jesl zone, with its ge ntle green hills, 1s vast
The so-cal led Classico heart constitutes as
much as 90% of the area, which seems like a
fudge, but producers such as Villa Bucci and
Umam Ronchi pull out all the stops for their
top bottlings, which combine refreshment
with ageab11ity The Verdicch10 grape here
seems to take on a certai n saline quality, and
wines from prod ucers such as Brunori, Colle
Stefano, La Marca d1 San Michele, and
Pievalta are surely some of the wine world's
bargains. The smaller Verdlcchlo di Matelic&
zone 1s on higher, shghtly h1lher terrai n . To
the Immediate south, distinctive dry whites
made by smaller producers from Passerina
and, especially, Pecorino grapes In the
Falerlo DOC and Of
ft
da DOCG zones, and
the IGT Terre di Chletl Inland from Pescara,
have been attracti ng atte ntion.
Rosso Piceno vineyards near Ca merino, west of
Macerata, are typical ofthe Marche's rolling,
green fa rming country - land m11
1
ch more
affordable th an m Tu•can.)' The Adriatic
softens the climate here.
The reds of the Marche have been slower
to carve out an 1dent1ty, but floaao Conero
DOC, based on JUICY Montepulc1ano grapes,
shows some character Rosso Piceno, made
from Sang1ovese with Montepulc1ano,
ge nerally with lower yields and JUd1c1ous
oaking, can be good value.
Montepulc1ano 1s the red grape of th1s part
of the Adriatic coast and Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo is rarely ove rpriced, even 1f 1t is
highly variable. Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo 1s the
satisfyingly fu ll-blooded, dry, pink version.
Pettinella's is so characterful that it has to
be sold simply as Vino Rosato. The finest
zone for Montepulc1ano, in the wild Abruzz1
hills around the town of Teramo, has DOCG
status for its Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Colline Teramane Superior producers
include Em1dio Pepe and Praesidium.
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (not the same as
Trebb1ano To scano) 1s also extremely
variable but 1t can hit great heights, not least
because of some confusion as to exactly
which grape variety 1s involved The qu1xot1c
late Eduardo Val entini of Loreto Aprut1no
created an international reputation for
his fa stidiously selected, magn ificently
ageworthy, fu ll-bodied version, echoed
today by Tiberio and Em1d10 Pepe
West coast zones
On the west coast, the Roman regi on Lazio
1s oddly inert in terms of wine. A handful of
producers is trying hard with both imported
international varieties and such local grape
specialities as red Cesanese, which has no
fewer than two DOCs and one DOCG, Plglio,
devoted to its potentially tan n1c wines
Dam iano Ciolh and Costa Gra1a's si ngle­
vineyard versions show the way.
Rome 1s essential ly a white wine city
Marino and Frascati, from the increas i ngly
built up Castelli Romani, are downed in vast
quantities but rarely with much attention
Moving north, Cerveter1 looks much more
important on the map than 1t 1s on the
ground It is north of here, on the hinterland
of the Tu scan coast, that there has been the
most dramatic change to the winescape In
the last two or three decades. See overleaf
for more on the Tuscan coast and p.181 fo r
m ore on northwest Lazio.
E milia· Romagna's wines are outlined on
p.156. Corton&, the DOC zo ne to the
Immediate ea t of Montepulclano, grows a
host of international grape var ieties w1tn
Syrah the most promising. Te mment. LI.
.
gl
d'Alessandro and Stefano Amer1gh 1 ar the
most 1mpress1ve producers

11,50
0
,00
0
International boundary
Reg1one boundary
Bil'l!llNO Red wme
10RGMNO White wine
Zagarolo Red and whtte wme
DOCG/DOC boundaries are distinguished
by coloured lines
Landabove60
0
metres
r"i7i'
Area mapped at larger scale
�
on page shown
ITALY'S &PINE
Gonotcl
...
Exceptionally, this map hu been rotated so that
1t does not point due north. The Apennines are
too high for viticulture, and divide those regions
influenced by the Mediterranean and Adriatic.
The greatest concentration offtne wine ls In the
west, but the eut coast Is slowly catching up
C'tNTRAL ITALY · ITALY
173
D
T
F
o

174
ITALY · CENTRAL ITA LY
Maremma
The map opposite shows only the original
part of what might be called Tuscany's Gold
Coast, the Maremma To scana, a stretch
of land from Llvorno as far south as the
Argentario Peninsula that has attracted a
fe ver of interest and outside investment.
This once-malarial coast has no long wme
trad 1t1on; the flame was lit m the 1940s when
the Marchese lnc1sa della Rocchetta chose a
stony hectare of his wife's extensive San
Guido estate in Bolgheri, essentially a stud
fa rm, to plant Cabernet. He hankered after
the Medoc. The nearest vineyards were miles
away. His young vines were surrounded by
neglected peach orchards and abandoned
strawberry fields, but he was pleased enough
with his house wine, Sassicaia, to plant more,
under the gu idance of his oenologist,
Giacomo Tachis. When the Marchese's early
wines eventually lost their tannin they
revealed flavo urs not seen m Italy before.
His nephews, P1ero and Lodovico Antinor1,
tasted the wines. P1ero talked to Professor
Emile Peynaud in Bordeaux Antinor1 started
to bottle and market Sassica1a with the 1968
vi ntage. By the m1d-1970s, it was world
famous. Then, m the 1980s, Lodovico
Antinor1 began planting the neighbouring
property he then owned, Ornella1a, with
Cabernet Sauv1gnon, Merlot, and, less
successfully, Sauv1gnon B l anc. In 1990, his
brother P1ero produced a Cabernet/Merlot
blend called Guad o al Tasso from his
Belvedere estate on higher ground to the
southwest The soil turns sandier here;
the wme lighter This may well be the
westernmost site for great reds m Tuscany,
but the last two decades have seen a
land-grab throughout the Mare mma.
Investment has poured m, not just from
such substantial Florentines as Ant1nori,
Frescobald1, and Ruffino, but a host of
smaller producers based in the Ch1ant1
hills inland but seeking extra ripeness.
(They are allowed to ad d 15% of coastal
grapes to their inland produce). The
grape-rush soon brought northern Italian
producers such as Bolla, Gaja, Loacker,
and Zonin. Even some from California.
The Bolgheri DOC evolved, with pioneer
Sass1ca1a having its own DOC within 1t - and
a new winery almost on the Roman coast
road, the Via Aurelia. Cabernet and Merlot
have been the grapes of choice for most
newcomers, even 1f some of the land
grabbed, extensively m some cases, has
proved too flat and fe rti le to prod uce wines
ofspecial quality With much ofthe best
vineyard land in Bolgher1 accou nted for,
the focus shifted south. Now the two Val
di Cornla zones and Suvereto, on higher
ground up in the hills, have attracted hopeful
investors, too
The Maremma To scana DOC was created
to encompass all DOCs and DOCGs on this
map as well as all those shown on the map
on p.173 north of the Lazio border and west
of Montalcmo.
Within this labyrinth of DOCs and DOCGs,
most of them very new, there are signs of
life for Tuscany's signature grape; indeed,
the central and southern Maremma seem
ge nerally better suited to Sang1ovese than
to Bordeaux grapes, with the finest examples
com mg from higher, less fe rtile sites.
Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG with at least
90% Sangiovese (as opposed to the
Montec ucco DOC with its minimum 70%)
seems particularly promising, and its soft,
ro lling hills are much easier to plant than
the higher, wilder reaches of Monteregio di
Massa Marittima, which stretches out
over the mineral-rich coastal ridge, the
Colline Metalhfere. Pote ntial vineyard sites
may need extensive restructuring, but on
soils not unlike those of Montalcino at
Ornel/aia sells at Bordeaux classed-growth
prices so every care can be lavished on 1t - such
as precision sorting of the grapes to ensure
only the most perfect are retained to go into
the estate's luxurious fe rm entation vats.

elevations up to 1,970ft (600 m), there can be
some very elegant Sang1ovese
Ju t outh of Grosseto Is the Morellino di
Scaneano DOC, which was created as long
ago as 1978, Morell1no 1s the local name for
Sang1ovese, and Scansano Its hilltop capital.
This 1s the Maremma's classic Sang1ovese
zone, eve n if arguably the most fa mous wine
grown here 1s a Bordeaux blend with a little
Allcante Saffred 1 1s made by the pioneering
Le Pup1lle estate and was or1gmal ly produced
with the help of the late Giacomo Tach1s,
Antinorl's fa mous oenologlst Ripeness 1s
not a problem in balmy cond1t1ons nearer
sea level. As at the single-estate seaside
DOC Parrlna, the wines are much fl eshier,
more supple, and argu ably more
"international" than anything made in the
hills of Ch1ant1 Classico inland
The north of th1s map has also seen
expansion 1n recent years. Both Lodovico
Antinor1, with his B1serno estate, and now
GaJa, with a few hectares of red and white
wine vines, have also invested in higher,
w1nd1er, warmer Terratico di Bibbona, which
tends to produce more robust wines than
Bolgher1. And two fa irly new but outstanding
estates are to be fo und north of B1bbona in
the DOC Montescudaio (see p.173), qoth
bottling under the IGT Costa To scana
created in 2010. Duemani has demonstrated
prowess with a recogn izably Tuscan
Cabernet Franc, while Ca1arossa's wines can
be particularly fre sh and elegant .
The whole Maremma region has been
transformed from marshland to Italy's Napa
Valley in a remarkably short ti m e.
NORTH TUSCAN COAST
Seriously interesting wines are also made well
to the south of the area mapped, such as in
Morelllno di Scansano, and m Parrina and
Montecocco fu rther inland. See map on p.173.
Provmcia boundary
Commune boundary
Terratlco d1 B1bbona DOC
Bolihen DOC
Bolghen Sa5s1ca1a DOC
Val di Cornia DOC
Val d1 Corma Rosso DOCG
- Suvereto DOCG
•°*1AIA Notable producer
..
..
. Noted vineyard
Woods
@ Contour Interval 100 metres
La Pineta beach
restaurant Is
where you are
highly likely to run
m to Bo/gheri's
wine producers,
even the most
fa mous and
aristocratic.
Pde/la
Ga/era
Ri
Piombino
I•
Maremma CENTRAL ITALY • ITA LY
171
KmO
Ml
lo
o
0
•I
Casolp1ana9
1 154,00
0
4
5Km
3W.
I•
•
E
"f

178
ITALY · CENTRAL ITALY
Chianti
Classico
In the hills between Florence and Siena
the blending of landscape, architecture,
and agriculture is ancient and profound.
The villas, cypresses, olives, vi nes, roc ks,
and woods compose pictures that could be
Roman, Renaissance, Risorg1mento - there
1s no way of telling (provided the region's
many tourists park their cars discreetly)
In this timeless scene, once a promiscuous
tangle ofthe crops deemed necessary to
Tuscan peasant life, vineyards now march
neatly uphill and down dale in the most
fa voured spots, often punctuating quite wild,
wooded country and many ofthem owned
and regi mented by well- heeled outsiders.
The original Ch1ant1 zone, the first anywhere
1n the world to be delimited, in 1716, 1dent1fied
the land around the villages of Radda, Ga1ole,
and Castelhna, with Greve (including Panzano)
added later The red line on the map opposite
shows all of the extended h1stor1c zone which
today prod uces one of Italy's finest wines,
Chianti Classico. 'Twas not always thus
As long ago as 1872 Barone Ricasoli
(sometime prime minister ofItaly), at his
castle of Broho, d1stingu1shed between two
forms of Chianti a simple one for drinking
young, and a more amb1t1ous version aimed
at the cellar Fo r the early-d rinking Ch1ant1
he allowed some of the then prevalent white
grape Malvas1a into the blend with the red
grapes, Sang1ovese and Cana1olo.
Unfortunately, the proportion of prolific
white wine vines grew and the dreary
Trebb1ano To scano crept into the rec ipe
When the DOC laws defined Ch1ant1 in 1963
they insisted on 10% and allowed up to 30% -
far too much - of wh ite grapes into Ch1ant1 of
any style or provenance, including Ch1ant1
Class1co. Pallid Ch1ant1 (too often diminished
by poor clones of the region's classic dark­
skinned grape Sang1ovese and/or beefed u p
with red wine imported in bulk from the south
of Italy) became the rule, and 1t became clear
that either the rules must change, or the
zone's prod ucers must make their best wine
in their own way and give the wine a new n ame.
In 1975, the ancient �ntinor1 fa mily launched
their rebel flag T1gnanello, made, like wines
from the Carm1gnano DOC 'to the northwest
of Florence, from Sang1ovese with a small
proportion of Cabernet To underline the
point they rapidly ad ded Sola1a, with the
proportions of Cabernet and Sang1ovese
reversed. Within a few years there seemed
scarcely a caste/lo or villa in Chianti that had
not followed them with their own "Super
Tu scan", virtually all of them dependent on
international grape var1et1es and sold initially
and defiantly as Vino da Tavola.
But as the character of many of these
rebel wines became increasingly distant
from anything obviously Tu scan, and as new,
much higher-qual ity clones of Sang1ovese
were 1dent1fied, along with better
understanding of the best sites and better
v1t1culture, the concept of Chianti Class1co
- and its R1serva version - as a truly fine
wine emerged . Today, R1serva represents
almost 25% oftotal production
Sangiovese resurgent
Chianti Class1co 1s now an extremely
serious wine made substantially (80-100%
ofthe blend) from low- crop ped, top -q ual ity
Sangiovese vines, aged in oak, with a life
expectancy of 10 years or even more.
The other var1et1es now allowed in Ch1ant1
Class1co up to a total of 20% are the
trad 1t1onal Cana1olo, the deeply coloured
Colori no, and international var1et1es,
notably Cabernet Sauv1gnon and Merlot,
but these international grapes are
TUSCANY: FIRE ZE
Latitude / ElevaLion ofW
43.80' / 144ft (44 m)
Average growi ng season tcrnperatw ·e at WS
68.3'F (20.1 'C)
Ave rage annual ra infall at WS
30. 2in (767 mm)
Harvest month rainfall at WS
October: 3.4in (85mm)
Principal viticultural hazard
Underripeness, downy mildew, esca
Principal grape varieties
R: Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero
gradually being abandoned in favour of
a 100% Tu scan wine.
The vineyards of Ch1ant1 Class1co are
relatively high, at least 820-1 ,640ft (250-
500 m), and in some years some ofthe higher
sites may even have trouble ripening
Sang1o vese. The character1st1c soil type 1s a
highly fr iable marl known locally as galestro,
sometimes layered with a limestone known
as alberese. The producers marked on our
map, whjch shows the chaotic hiIllness ofthe
Ch1ant1 countryside and the scattering of
vines (and olives) among the woods, usually
manage to transform the relatively light­
coloured, high-acid Sang1ovese into wines that
are complex, satisfyingly tannic, and savoury.
Voluptuousness 1s not a Sang1ovese attribute.
Nowadays most Chianti Class1co is fa st1d1ously
made, and there has been a return from
smaller French barr1ques to the traditional
large Slavonian oak vats known as botte.
R1serva Chianti Class1co, representing
al m ost 25% of total production and designed
to be drunk after extended bottle-ageing, 1s
often more 1mpress1ve than the much more
recently devised Gran Selez1one, supposedly
superior wines chosen on the basis oftastings.
Jn the earl 20 lh ce ntury, Chianti had such a follow ing, nol just in Italy, tliat
poor irn1tat10ns were ri fe . Jn I 932, a government committee wa1> charged with
d<.'mar a ting lheCla%i o zon<.', b u t 111stead grafted on ix addtlional ubzo nes
and d creed thal a va t area (marked by the bright-green line on lhe map on
p J 7a) v.ould be allowed Lo produce wi ne labelled sunply " h ianli" . At almost
JOO mile� (160km)from north to outh, il1 morcexten lve than the
Bordl'nux win<.' region Cornrrnr d with hinnltCla.,sico, the outlying
C'hmntt uhtones arc allowed highe r y1rld;, lower mmimurn alcohol levels,
ll·'>'> dc·n'>ely planted v 111cy nrd '> , and till' wlncs may still co ntmn a fotr
proport ion of wh1t1• wi n grap &. The re.,u ll i'> red that are much lighter ..ind
often v ry mut h le.;, .,at 1sf mg than hrnnl1 Class1 o.
re spon ible for the fi nesse of Chianl1 Rufi na, and tor the fa t that lhe best
estate , su ha Selvapiana, an make win s that la;t fordecade"
Of the· '1X Chianti s ubzonl's, hiantl Ri1 1i na ea.,t of Florence (part o ulline d
111 rnJg ntaoppo-;1te. bul <.et• m..ip on p t7a) 1& themo>t d1stincl!ve, making
dcJ.(J nt w111r that n1 11 ag< rrmarkably AP"'' t h ro u gh Lhc pC'nn111e.. north
of lwr< , v. lm h allow<. mari ttlll<.' breeze!> to cool the vmcyu rd<. 10 large ly
Other distmguished •stale are to b o u n d arou nd , an Gimignnno Il
l
the
·
ubz o n e of Chianti Colli Scnesi (south of th blue hne), the hill ..ibove
icn a. The white Ve rnaccia di Sun Gimignano, once con.,1dered mere
tourbl plonk, has become quite ;,cnou , o ca5ionoll long ltvcd , \I 1lh MlllH.'
even skm-fcrrnentcd in ampho1 u .
hmnti mad in lhe hills abo e Flnr c n cc, 1'1;,a, and Areno (rc,pl'dtn>l) th<'
Chianti Col li Fiore ntini, C olline Piso nc, ond Colli ret ini ' 11b7 C H H» ) lc• nd'
lo be les h n c , a arc the \H ll<''> o! thL' Chinnti Montalbnno ,ub101w
norllme&l of l• lor<.'ne (• fl u l w1Lh 111 ('J n .ml! Mont.1Jh.i no lie' the h1.,tm1e
dc110111 1nalion Carmignano (111,1ppc•d on p. 1 7:! ), a little lo\H r th.in the
lu'>tco tone, hrnee with'>hghtl <,ofter v. uw C.u m1g1i.1
11
0 \\,t' th<• 111'l
Tuscan wine to rnclude ( abe1 net ::,.1m.igncrn to giH• it b.1d.
.l
ionl

THS HEART OF CHIANTI
land ofa thousand
*Urrtm•r holld
memorable
llOUth of Floreays,
the Chianti hllls
juetto
o
hl1h fio
nce Some of th1s land is
..
..
._
_
1
r sat11factor
•
..,.
.
n
n1. Wine and 1.
Y grape
.,.
.
th• r
o 1ve oil
t..
..i
....
P lnc1pal crops
v
..
..,.
.
- th• days of
rnbced (promlscua)
outtlvatlon are
lcm1 Son•.
1
l
CtuanU ClaS9lco DOC(;
Vin Santo del Chianti Clas$
-chianti ,,
,.,.
,,
ICODOC
�
su-.
.s
-Rufina
-
-
Colh Fiorantlnl
Monle5pertoll
Colli Senesl
- Colb Aretml
1 230,00
0
ic.
.
o
Ml
lot
00�
��
�1°'".
.!.�
��
�-
!I Km
• PONTODI
250
>JJ
Contour Interval 50 metres
Weather station CWS)
'.
•I
·ITA LY
177
c
0
D
T
E
T
'
o

178
ITALY CENTRAL ITALY Ch anti Class1co
Many Ch1ant1 Class1co estates also prod uce
olive 011. sometimes a fa irly inconsequential
local dry wh ite, often based on Ve rmenti no,
increasingly a rosato, perhaps a Vin Santo
(Central Italy's fa mous dried-grape, long-aged,
sweet wh ite, or rather tawny, see p.180), and
perhaps a Super Tuscan (now sold as IGT
Toscana) or two though these seem to be
on the wane as Chianti Class1co waxes .
The best way for the highly 1nd1v1dual wines
of C h i a nt i Claas1co to d1stingu1sh themselves
from mere Chianti (see panel on p.176) 1s to
develop the lnd1v1dual communes' 1dent1t1es.
The wines of Ga1ole, for example, are
ge nerally higher in ac 1d 1ty because of the
Ga1ole vineyards' elevation, while the wines
from lower lying Castell1na in Ch1ant1 are
aenerally fu ller and a little richer The wines
from Castelnuovo Berardenga 1n the very
' south of the Ch1ant1 Class1co zone are often
characterized in youth by their compact,
grainy tannins. And although Panzano is
act ually ad m1n istrat1ve ly part of the much
more varied commune ofGreve, the wines
grown on its amphitheatre of vineyard s, the
so-called Conca d'Oro, are quite distinct
Bathed 1n the sun all day long, they te nd to
be fruit driven wines with particularly line
Surely, this a scene th at would- be Tu scan
wme·growers dream of m this case Badia a
Colt1buono near Galole m Ch1an t1, one ofmany
Ital/an wme estates with monastic origin s.
tannins Panzano, Incidentally, was Italy's
, first wine commune to adopt organic
, practices en masse, and by 201 8 about 35%
of all Chianti Class1co vineyards were
organ ically fa rme d . To an outsider, IT'ak1ng
these geographical distinctions clear on the
label (as many a local re 'itaurateu� doto<: on
their wine list) seem <S to m ake per� ct ':ler t>

Montalcino
ln the 1970s, Montalclno was the poorest
.hlHtop town In southern Tuscany. Little
!NU heard of this part of Italy. It was purely
local knowledge that the climate here was
more equable than fa rther north or south
Monte Am1ata, rising to 5,600ft (1 ,700m) 1ust
to the south, collects the summer storms
that come from that d1rect1on. Montalcmo
has the warm, dry chmate of the Tuscan
coast (see p 174) with, m the best vineyard s,
the rockier, less fe rtile soils of the cooler
Ch1ant1 Classico zone. This can yield wines
with all the tang and savour of Tuscany's
most typical re ds, but with extra depth and
staying power
At the same time as Ricasoh was devising
an ideal formula for Chianti, Clemente Santi
and his km (now called Biondi Santi) were
establishing a model for what they labelled
'Bru nello (a local selection of Sang1ovese
clones) di Montalcino. Odd bottles of such
•nc1ent vintages ofth1s wine as were made
w ere not 1ust revered rarities, but could also
be 1mpress1vely muscular and worthy of
emulation Many were.
In the 1970s, the mammoth US Banfi
c orporation, flushed with success with its
am brusco m the USA, tried to repeat the
trick with a sweetish wh ite Moscadello di
Montalcino (a DOC created for 1t with
the same boundaries as Brunello), planting
h undred s of Montalcmo acres. It was a flop.
The company rapidly converted the
vineya rds to Brunello and thus, from the
n 980s, thanks to Banfi's clout and
d istri bution network, Montalcino has been
engu lfed m American, then international,
interes t It became Tuscany's answer to
Baro lo, though without any ofBarolo's
ntricate geographical precision .
The old Brunello di Montalcino, wine for
heroes , aged almost to destruction, has
ad apted considerably to modern tastes. The
mandatory minimum of four years in oak was
red uced to two and in the late 20th century
some prod ucers started to deepen the
Sang1ovese, legal ly 100% of Brunello di
Montalcino, with illegal international grape
var1etres. This came to a head in a flurry of
accusations in 2008. Producers eventually
voted not to allow fo reign grapes into the
blending vat and recent vintages have been
more recognizably Tuscan. The Sant'Antimo
DOC - same boundaries as Brunello,
different name - 1s designed for grapes other
than Sang1ovese, but is not much used
Montalcino was the first DOCG to be
graced with a ffji.lnior DOC", Rosso di
Montalclno, a (relatively) hghter Sangiovese
that may be released at only one, rather than
four years old and can provide an affordable
t�
ro{seto
ICmO
Ml
lo
o
O
way of experiencing some of Brunello's
quality, but at an accelerated pace.
-t
1135,00
0
Encouraged by Brunello's high prices,
planti ngs have expanded enormously, from
1ust over 150 acres (60 ha) m 1960 to more
than 6,450 acres (2,610
.
ha) of Sang1ovese
vines today Elevations vary from 490ft
(150m) above sea level in the Val d'Orc1a In
the south, where the most potent wines tend
to be made on heavy clay so ils, to almost
1,640ft (500 m) 1ust south of the hilltop town
of Montalcmo itself, where wines grown on
galestro marls are more elegant, aromatic,
and, to some tastes, "true" The high, steep
slopes immediately below the town, the
original vineyard heartland, benefit from the
5Ka
3M.lo
o
CENTRAL ITALY • ITALY
17t
Provmc1a boundary
Chianti Colli Senes1 DOCG
Brunello d1 Montalc1no DOCG
Rosso d1 Montalcmo DOC
Moscadello d1 Montalcmo DOC
Sant'Ant1mo DOC
• IJSINI Notable producer
c=i Vineyards
Woods
-50
0
Contour interval 100 metres
longest growing season and are capable of
prod ucing the most nuanced wines, even
if in real ly cool years grapes may struggle
to ripen. The swathe of vineyards from
Sant'Angelo Scalo uphill to Sant'Angelo in
Colle is the zone's hottest and driest. Most
of its wines reflect this. Around Tave rnelle,
prod ucers (such as the late G1anfranco
Soldera of Case Basse) behave they have the
best of both worlds, with regu lar cooling
breezes and freedom from frost and fog.
Some areas are definitely better than most,
but md1v1dual site classification, and even the
naming of subzones, has so far been regarded
as too politically sensitive. The growing band
of Brunello lovers live in hope.
D
f
E
T
f
..

180
ITALY · CENTRAL ITALY
Montepulciano
This stretch of/and between the two
portions of the DOCG Is too low and sons
too fe rtile for top-quality wine production.
•
..
.
Montalcino's neighbours to the east,
across an intervening enclave of "mere"
Chianti, have ancient pretensions of their
own embodied in their aristocratic DOCG,
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
Montepulciano 1s a hill town of great charm,
su rrounded by vineyards planted with a
mixture ofSang1ovese, called here Prugnolo
Gentile, and some local and French var1et1es,
particularly Merlot and Syrah Vino Nobile
must contain a minimum of70% Sang1ovese -
some producers prefer 100%, others a blend
T
- so the wines can vary quite markedly,
although most are perceptibly dense, often
c
o
E
7
very tannic in youth, and some are st ill
over -oaked . Boscarell1, Gracc1ano dellaSeta,
and aged vintages from Contucci and
Va ld1p1atta are worth seeking out.
As in Montalcino, minimum oak-ageing
periods have been reduced (tojust one
year 1n wood for both normal and Riserva
versions), though Vino Nobile d1 Montepulc1ano
cannot be released until 1t 1s two years old,
a R1serva three. Ifyoung Vino Nobile 1s often
pretty chewy, the earlier-maturing junior
version, Rosso di Montepulclano, can be
al most surprisingly soft.
Vineyards are in two separate zones
separated by the Val d1 Chiana plain and must
be at elevations of 820-1 ,970ft (250-600 m).
The average annual rainfall, around 29 in
(740 mm), 1s slightly higher than in Montalcino,
although the pervading warmth of southern
Tuscany leaves no shortage of r1peness. It
may be the clay-rich soils, some leavened by
limestone, that are responsible for the solid
nature ofVino Nobile.
It 1s probably elevation that plays the ma1or
role in shaping what sort of wine emerges
from each vineyard; some of the highest
vineyards are on steep slopes north of the
town of Montepulc1ano. But soils in the zone
are extremely varied, ranging from clay to
tufa to soils with a high rock content and
even marine fossils in places.
The house of Av1gnones1, now in Belgian
hands, was the leading light of Montepulc1ano's
wine producers as they dallied with the
Super Tuscan fo rmula of blends of Prugnolo
with var ious international varieti es. But 1n
2017, impelled by the desire to create a more
distinctive and indubitably Tuscan 1dent1ty
for the "noble wine" of Montepulciano, a
group of lix producers - Including Avlgnonesl
with Boscarelh, De1, La Braccesca (Antinori),
Poll zlano, and Salcheto fou nded Alliance
Vinum, a movement designed to promote
all-San11oveae Vino Nobile. The resulting
winea are likely to gain in refi nement and
local characte r
Reg1one boundary
Provlnc1a boundary
Ch1anb Colli Senes1 DOCG
Vino Nobile d1 Montepulc1ano DOCG
Rosso di Montepulc1ano DOC
t
Vin Santo d1 Montepulc1ano DOC
• FASMTI Notable producer
c=J Vineyards
Woods
-
]Qfi- Contour interval 100 metres
One of Montepul iano' undoubted triumphs is it5
in Santo, theforgotten luxur of m any part;, of I taly,
Tuscany above all. It is orange -coloured, m o ke- sce nted ,
extraordinarily weet, intense, and pen.i s t c nl, made
typi ally from Malvnsia B ian ca, Gre hello Bianco, and
Trebbiano Tosc;mo grapes that are car fully dried 1n
well- ven tilal 'd premiqes until ut. leasl D cemb r, before
being termcnlcd and aged for t h ree curs (someti mes 111
uttic;) 111 Liny fl at t e ned barrels called carutelli. Grape;
for Vi n Sa nto di Montepulciano His rva are dncd and
Lhe wine aged ev en longer, while Av ignon ,j 's
umpt uous p ccialil y, Vin Santo di Montepulc1,mo
Otchio di Pernice , "e col the p.irtridgc•, ni.1dc of
l'rugnolo (,entile , 1s often aged in <:tL-sk for eight < ar;
before bol l ling
'"
1138460
�o
s�
i-
-
�
..
._
..
..,.
..
..
..
..
.
�
..
..
..
.
..-�._
_
_.,.
..
.
�-0
3�-

Umbria
Land·locked Umbrla'• climate varlH
er'lormoualy, from cooler·than·Chlantl
hllhlanda In the north around Lake
Traalmeno to a Mediterranean climate
In the south. Its grapes are d1st1nct1vely
Umbr1an Trebb1ano Spoleti no has real gri p
and personality, and may be related to the
en1gmat1c Tre bb1ano d'Abruzzo (see p.172).
Grechetto di Orv1eto makes fu ll-bodied
whites capable of nutty intensity. Sagrantino
1s its signature red, linked with the town of
Montefalco, thic k-s kinned, packed with
flavour and potential longevity Marco Caprai
brought 1t to international attention in the
early 1990s but Adant1, whose Sagrantino
can be unusually elegant, and Scacciad1avoh
have longer histories. Sagrantino 1s so high in
tannin that producers are tempted to tame
the tan nins by picking late, thereby
prod ucing wines formidably high in alcohol.
Today, Montefalco savantlno IS a DOCG
of more than 1,480 acres (600ha), with a
fu rther 990 acres (400 ha) or so dedicated
to RoHo di Montefalco, In which Sangiovese
1s the dominant grape.
Dr G1org10 Lungarott1, on his estate at
Torgiano near Perug1a, was the first in
modern times to prove, in the late 1970s,
that Umbr1a could make Sangiovese-based
reds as good as Tu scany's, and even to
explore what might be called Super Umbr1ans.
His daughters, Te resa and Chiara, continue
to keep To rgiano, whose Riserva 1s now
DOCG, on the map, and have branched out
into Montefalco, too.
Umbr1a has wine traditions as ancient
as any Orvieto was an important Etruscan
city The magnificent cellars cut in the
volcanic roc k of its dramatic hilltop
3,000 years ago are unique examples
of preh1stor1c technology, specifically
designed for long, cool fe rmentation, the
object being sweet, amabi/e, white wine.
Alas for Orvleto: the 1960s and '70s fas hion
Regione boundary
Provmc1a boundary
1 695,00
0
KmO
10
15
20
2.5Km
1-
--
�--""T"..
..
..
�..
..
..
.
.-
-
--�..
..
.
Molo.0
10
UMBRIA: PERUGIA
Latitu de / Elevation of WS
43.10° / 682ft (208m)
MONTEFALCO
DOCG
SAGRANITNO
.2.!W,W! DOC
•PALBSro
Notable producer
DOCG/DOC boundanes are d1stmgu1shed
by coloured Imes
T
Weather station (WSJ
Ave rage growi ng seaso n temperature at WS
64.6°F (1a.1°cJ
Ave rage annual rai nfal l at WS
30.6in (778mm)
Harvest month rainfall at WS
September: 3.5in (89 mm)
Principal viticu ltural hazards
Some esca in older vineyards
Principal grape va rieties
R: Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Sagrantino;
W: Trebbiano, Grechetto
Yhis northeastern corner ofLazio Is
ll
l'fe
ctively a vff:icultura/ ex tension of
flmbrla. with the Lago di Sofl
l
ena helping to
moderate Orvleto's climate. Falesco is one
ofLazio's best ••tates - Est/ Estf/ Est/!! has
/1Ved on its name alone for centurlee.
CENTRAL ITALY • ITALY
191
for dry white wines tu rned it into yet
another central Italian blend based on
Trebbiano To scano (cal led Procamco here).
The lower-yielding Grechetto that gave it
character was spurned, and the fo rtunes
of th1s supposed leader of Umbr1an wme
foundered . But today, at last, there 1s
renewed interest in Orvleto Cl&Hlco
Secco, not least thanks to the Barberam
estate that is making some of the
best wh ite wines in the whole of Italy.
It also makes a botryt1zed version, with
noble rot triggered by fogs from nearby
Lago d1 Corbara, and a dry, late harvest
Orvleto Superior•
In the southwest, Antinori makes non
trad1t1onal wh ites at its Castello dell a Sala
estate, notably Cervaro della Sala, a
barrel-fermented Chard onnay with a little
Grechetto. The botryt1zed Muffato, made
from a range of international grapes plus
Grechetto, shows other poss1b1lities. Today,
Umbr1a makes a truly Italian fa rrago of reds
and wh ites.
I
c
c
o
D
T
'
o

•
I
I
c
c
o
0
T
I
'
182
Latina
0
Southern
Italy
The Romans' most valued wines came
from the province they called Campanla
fe lix, the fe rtile land.
Te rroir Vo lcanic in the north, very hilly
apart from the Puglian heel.
Climate Hot and dry summers, though
cooler on the Apennines. Wet wi nters.
Grapes From north to south, R: Aghanico,
Piedirosso, Negroamaro, Nero di Troia,
Primitivo, Malvasia Nera, Gaglioppo,
Magliocco Dolce; W: Fiano, Fal anghina,
Bombino
Campanian wine country is volcanic. The relics
of Pom pe 11 clearly show how important wine
was before AD 79, when the town was engulfed
1n lava from Mount Vesuvius. Relics of ancient
c1v1 lization abound; includinggrape var1et1es
attributed to the first, Greek, settlers. In the
1970s, Antonio Mastroberard ino began work
on their revival. Agliarnco, Greek or not
(probably not) is the greatest : indeed, one of
the best red wine grapes anywhere. It finds its
fl nest expression so far on the volcanic hills of
the Tau raal DOCG zone mapped opposite,
making wines with such a powerful, obviously
noble, brood ing character that they may be
described as the "Barolo of the south"
The Calore river cuts Tau ras1 In two . On the
left bank in the north, vineyards, many with
clay soi ls and all at 985 1,310ft (300 400 m),
face south and may ripen a good two weeks
before those in the much more volcanic
south, where vines are grown as high as
2,300ft (700 m). Here, Agllanico often ripens
aa late as November, and the resulting wines
are naturally so high in ac1d1ty that their
malolact1c conve rsion 11 an achievement
Reg1one boundary
BIFBRNO Red wme
OSTUNI Red and white wme
GrecodiNo Whitewme
•MAl'l'IN
I
Notable producer
. /DOC boundaries are d1stmgu1shed
by coloured Imes
c:
::J
IGT Salento
c:
::
:=J
Land above 60
0
metres
O:!
!:J
Area mapped at larger scale
T Weather station (WS)
Fiano di Avellino, another of the three
DOCG zones in the district of lrpinia, 1s
spread over 26 villages in mountai nous
country centred on the town of Avellino,
within the west of the Tauras1 zone. These
minerally, firm, slightly floral dry whites,
hinting at ripe fr uit, can last for a decade or
two, and their obvious quahty has inspired
growers fr om Sicily to South Australia's
Mclaren Vale to import Flano cuttings
Greco di Tufo 1s a much smaller DOCG zone
to the immediate north of F1ano d1 Avellino,
producing s ubstantial whites with apple peel
fragrance and, agai n, mineral depths, thanks
perhaps to the volcanic tuff roc k.
I•
1 2.3.ce,00
0
l<mO
20
o40
.0
Ip
IOOICM
Ml
lo
o
o
�
1
----•·---
:io
r
'
_.
.
, _____
,
�'°
r
1
----'----
.o
.-
'
�
Golfo
di
Ta ranto
Il
ly
to producers
1TOllMARPSC
A
(A!mNOl
l)
2 DUEPAIMI!
3-UVl!IJ
'CANDIDO
S c:ANnNAMNDO!IMI
6TAURINO
7r.ASTEU.
O
MONMJ
IWl
l'l!IJ!
9 Ll!ONI!DE�
JOOONI
I
�
11QJPl!R1
1NIJM
12MONACI
These are the established
names of modern Campanian
wine, but some encouragingly
good wines are emergi ng from
less ex pected areas. Naples'
own DOC, Campi Flegrel,
produces fine Falanghina, which
1s also the dominant grape in the
white wines of Capri, lschia, and the
Costa d'Amalfi (all DOCs) grown on
almost incred ibly steep vineyard s . Some
vines on the island of lsch1a can be reached
only by boat. Marisa Cuomo makes some of
Italy's most celebrated whites in the Fu rore
subzone of Amalfl.
Lacryma Christi wh ites and reds grown
on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius are slowly
earning a reputation for more than iust
their name.
A lrttle off the beaten track In the province
of Caserta north of Naples, a host of ancient
local var1et1es, preserved in some cases
by black volcanic sands, are beginning to
make their mark. Under the IGT Te rre del
Vo lturno, several producers excel with
the white Pal lagrello and red Casave h1
(which has its own DOC Caaavec:chia di
Pontelatonel notably Aloi. Terr del
Principe, Ve. tin1 Campagnano (the pioneer '
these var1et1es). and newcomer Nanni Cope

S O UTHERN ITALY: BHJ DlSr �
I ilitudt I It \,1twn of WS
40.65" / 33ft (10m)
\vl'r,1g( !(rm\ tll)!M'•l'O ll t< mperature ut \.VS
G9.9°F c21.o•c)
\, t' r,1g« unnu.tl n1 1nt.tll ,1 t WS
22.S in (572mm)
1 l arvt• ' t month rn111f,tll at WS
August: 0.8ln (19mm)
l'r1nc1pnl v itilultur,il h,1..:urd�
Rapid ripening, water stress, sunburn
Bas11icata, the region to the south, has only
one significant DOC: Agl ianlco del Vulture,
grown (with unusual skill fo r this part of the
wo rld) on the relatively cool slopes of an
exti nct volcano up to 2,500ft (760m). Less
fa mous than Tau ras1, 1t can often offer
better val ue, although winemaking standards
vary wildly, as does the potential of the
va rious vineyard sites. Wines grown on the
slopes, particularly the higher, more volcanic
ones, are far better than those grown on the
plain, where grapes ripen so much earlier
than in Taurasi. Only the Super1ore version
ofAglianico del Vulture has DOCG status
Aghanico 1s also grown on the Adr1at1c coast
in the little-known region of Molise, where
Di MaJo Norante does an outstandingJob - as
this organic producer continues to do with his
Montepulc1ano and Falangh ina grapes
Ciro 1s one of very few well-known wines
produced in the southern wilds of Calabria,
the red made from the delicate, hau ntingly
perfumed Gaghoppo grape, the white from
Greco. The best-known Calabr1an producer
is the fam ily-owned firm of Librandi, which
has been working hard to rescue other local
grapes such as the Magliocco Canino, from
which it makes the velvety Magno M egonio.
Calabria's most original wine, however, may
be the strong, tangy, and sweetly perfumed
Greco di Bianco, made around the village of
Bianco, near the very tip of the Italian "toe".
Calabria has also seen the grouping ofthe
once individual (and tiny) DOCs of Polllno,
Colline del Crati, Condoleo, Donnic1, Esaro,
San Vito di Luzzi, and Verb1caro into the
overarching DOC Te rre di Cosenza, of which
each is now a subzone
The vine has been fighting back against the
ineursion ofpeach and kiwi growi ng here,
with a number of new producers nurturing
the special qualities ofMagliocco Dolce with
its freshness and fine tannins. Leading the
charge has been the aptly named Giuseppe
Calabrese plua Ferrocinto and Serracavallo.
Puglia transformed
The wines of Calabria and Bas1hcata may be
inspiring works in progress, but Puglia's wine
'IIII(Cl
1111 II111W 0
1i
Benevento
SOUTHERN ITA LY • ITALY
112
Co»ono'\
lrpono
f1
Mon!ella0 1_.
..
.
}
l�.00
0
Provmc1a boundary
t TAURASI Redwme
••
Napoli
IRl'INIA Red and white wme
THE HEART OF CAMPANIA
Greco
di Tufo Wh1te wme
The heartland of Campania's fine wine
production: Tau rasi, Fiano di Av ellino,
and the smaller Greco di Tufo zone.
•Pl!l
lDJ.O
Notable producer
DOCG/DOC boundaries are d1stmgu1shed
by coloured Imes
)
scene has been radical ly transformed fo r the
worse The casualties ofge nerous EU grants
for pulling up vines were far too often the low
bushvines yielding concentrated, interesting
wine. Growers were effectively bribed to
switch to prod uctive trel lised vines. Three­
quarters of the region's output 1s still blending
wine for the north (including France) or fodder
for the producers ofgrape concentrate and
vermouth. The flatland around Foggia 1n the
north churns out undistinguished Trebbiano,
Montelpulc1ano, and Sang1ovese, but some
more amb1t1ous bottlings have emerged
from producers based in San Severo.
Castel del Monte DOC, in the north of the
"heel" of Italy, boasts some modest hills and
produces some notabl� dark reds based on
its late-ripening Nero d1 Troia.
Most of Puglia's more interesting wines are
made on the flat Salento Peninsula, where
there may be no great var1at1on in expos1t1on
and mesoclimate, but the vines benefit from
the cooling winds that blow off both the
Adr1at1c and Ionian seas. Tod ay, thanks to
m uch- i m proved viticulture, the better grapes
are rarely picked before the end of September.
At the turn of the century, 1t was the
peninsula's ability to provide such anodyne
s helf-fillers as IGT Chardonnay del Salento
,,,
that drew international attention, but
Salento's local grapes can be more
interesting Negroamaro, " black- bitter", is
the cautionary name ofthe pr1nc1pal red
grape of eastern Salento, yet 1t can make
att ractive rose and fruity reds for early
drinking 1f 1t is not macerated for long or left
too long in bottle Its darker fac e is almost
pOPt-ltke, roasted red s in such DOCs as
Squinzano and Copertino. Malvas1a Nera,
with different strai ns 1dent1fled, respectively,
with Lecce and Brind1s1, 1s Negroamaro's
usual blending partner and can add a certai n
velvet to the texture. A few reasonably
interesting wines are made in the Brindisi
and Sallee Salentino zones
The most fam ous Pugl1an variety, however,
1s Pr1m1tivo - identical to California's
Zi nfandel and with its roots now establi shed
ac ross the Ad riatic - trad1t1onally a special ity
of western Salento, particularly on the red
soils over limestone of Manduria and the
higher (though no more than 490ft/150m)
Gioia del Colle. F1end1shly high al cohol levels
are the risk here It takes the right hands to
strike the right voluptuous note. Irrigation is
rarely needed, thanks to heavy winter rai nfall.
F1an o, Greco, and the perfumed Minutolo are
being planted for wh ite wines.
.,
I•
D
•
E
T

•
•
I
c
c
o
D
T
•
T
'
I
184
ITALY · SOUTHERN ITALY
Sici ly
After centuries of stagnation, the
Mediterranean's biggest and most
historically fascinating island is now Italy's
most vital and improved wine region.
Terrolr Complex and highly diverse soils
ranging from volcanic on Etna to sandy in
Marsala and chalk in Noto.
Climate Hot, dry summers, sometimes
fa nned by the sirocco from Africa. Etna has
an alpine climate.
Grapes R: Nero d'Avola, Nerello Mascalese,
Frappato, Nerello Cappuccio;
W: Catarratto, Grillo, Carricante
Sicily retai ns the visible remnants of more
civilizat ions more obviously than anywhere
else 1n the world of wine - from the near-intact
Greek tem ple of Agrigento to the Roman
mosaics of Piazza Armerina, the Crusader
castles and Moorish churches of Palermo to
the baroque splendour of Noto and Ragusa,
and, more recently, the giant co-operatives
that appeared, many tem porarily, 1n the
late 20th century to take advantage of
EU subs1d 1es. Sicily 1s as rich in indigenous
vine varieties as it is in historical cultural
influences. The two may be connected
A ho1t ofold Sicilian
vine varieties with
u..ful adaptation• to
a hot, dry climate are
being redl1covered and
recuperated at the Bag/lo
Ble1lna vineyard near
Mrir1ala .
Provlncl1 boundary
ILOIO Red wine
ITNA Red Ind white wine
=: White wine
1 1,786,00
0
[ 'RANA �
•
;i:
RRANOI
�..1" ""
Mo;cato di Pantellerla
Pa\<lto di Pantellcrta
Pantellerla
The southeastern tip ofthe island 1s fu rther
south than Tu nis Sicily can be very hot, its
grapes, especially in the interior, regu larly
warmed to boiling point by winds from Afr ica.
Irrigation is a necessity for a good half of
Sicilian vineyards, especially those planted
with 1nternat1onal var1et1es, and the sea
of trellised vines around Alcamo in the
northwest Indeed, so dry 1s the climate that
the vines need little spray ing as protection
agai nst fungal diseases, making these areas
close to ideal for organic v 1t1cu lture. But the
landscape can be greener inland, and the
mou ntai ns in the northeast are usually
snow-capped for several wi nter months.
Winds of change
Geography 1s a constant, but the political
complexion of the island's wine industry has
recently been anything but. In the m1d-1990s
Sicily competed only with Puglia for the title of
Italy's most productive wine region, but now
even the Veneto churns out much more, and
the island has definitively, and sensibly in view
of21st-century economics, opted for quality
over quantity and focused on its own vine
heritage rather than more anodyne imports.
The indigenous grape that made Sicily's
reputation abroad 1s Nero d'Avola (Avola is 1n
the extreme southeast, with its own cru and
DOC Eloro), which has typically made rich,
brightly fruited reds, notably around
Agrigento near the south-central coast, and in
the far west, too. This popular grape has been
planted all over the island, but on the blazing
white calcareous soils of Noto and Eloro its
wi nes can be stri kingly elegant and agewoM:hy
Another native grape, Frappato, enlivens Nero
d'Avola in the blend for Cerasuolo di Vittoria,
the island's only DOCG. Frappato's fresh nes
s
,
vigour, and delicate fr uttiness are ap
pre
ciated
1n early-drinking examples, but producers
such as Occh1pint1 have shown that fe rmenting
1t in an amphora gives an extra tang.
Of potentially even more interest, however,
1s Nerello Mascalese, trad1t1onally grown up to
3,300ft (1 ,000 m) on the slopes of Mount Etna,
where more and more am b1t1ous vi ne-growers
are braving the volcano's portentous
rumblings and very real eruptions. Etna,
with its rich mix of different elevations and
exposures and densely planted centenarian
vines, sprouting from soils that include
congealed magma, has become a magnet for
terroir-consc1ous wine producers. Some see
1t as a new Cote d'Or, and vine holdings are
similarly parcellated. The local guru, Salvo
Fot i, who gai ned credit for reigniting Etna's
wine reputation while working with the
long-establish ed Benanti fam ily, bottles (for
I Vigner1) several separate wines from ancient
vines on the eastern slopes of Etna Relatively
recent committed investors in Etna include
Cusumano on its Alta Mora
estate, Barolo's Giovan ni
Rosso, and Tasca
0Isofa Stromboli
JSOf.EEOUE OUPARJ
Malvas1a delle Lrnan
•
t.ola Fdocud;
0IIo
("
""\_
,-.
CAPOF A.RO
so a ,-ana
reo
0 BARO\l'lJ'i �1U GRA�b� fsolo Salina
Al1r;:ud1
·
Isola Lipari
Isola
MAlf�l R
i
Th ere are relatively fe w vineyards
1lea
on the Aeolian Islands but their
tso0Vu 00
Malvasia, whether dry or sweet,
is worth seeking out
•l'Wl
lfA
Nol
l
bleproducer
DOw/O
OC
boundaries ire dlllln&ulshed
bycolouredUna
DOC SICILIA
Land1bove50
0
metres
'1i
i'
Aru 11
11
pped at l1r19r
L-.
.!.!
!.
..
..
..
seal•onPIPshown
II
Our map shows th• most Important DOC• and DOCG1,
but the entire l1land has quallfled u DOC Slcllla •ince
2011, when It wu up1raded from IGT Sicilia
IJflORll

d'Almerita, whose Rosso del Conte was the
first serious S1c1han red of the modern era.
Older hands rnclude ultra- natural Belgian
Franc Cornelissen, US wine importer Marc de
Gre.z1a of Terre Nere, and Andrea Franchett1,
whocame from Tr rnoro rn southern Tuscany,
naming his winery after the nearby commune
of Passopisciaro. He managed to attract
international attention to Et na as a whole
by organizing a seminal tasting grouping the
wines geographically, accord ing to contrad a,
or subzone This has led to a wave of
s ingle · contrad a wines. When Angelo Gaia
of Barbaresco followed with aioint venture
with Alberto Graci, al ready fa mous for his
red s from Passopisciaro and Solicch1ata,
they decided to invest near Biancavilla on
Etna's less known southwest side, avoiding
the crowds and the escalating land prices
ofthe northeast.
A vine with rather softer resu lts, Nerello
Cappucc10, 1s also grown on Etna and
blended with Nerello Masc alese. Yet another
Sicilian red grape, Nocera, is blended with
both Nerellos in the ancient Faro DOC on
the far northeastern tip ofthe island. Faro
(meaning "lighthouse") was revived by an
architect, Salvatore Geraci, on steep
terraces at Palari, overlooking the Strait of
Messina. Like the wines of Etna, the best
Faro wines show prec1s1on and a level of
ac 1d1ty that 1s surpr1s1ng so fa r south.
Mamertino, Faro's immediate neighbour,
already considered a cru by the Romans, 1s
a much more varied and extensive DOC,
chosen by the influential wine fam ily Planeta
fo r its northeastern operation. (The
Planetas started out 1n the southwest with
a series of international varietals that in the
m1d-1 990s put "the new S1c1ly" on the map.)
1sland whites
The crisp Carr1cante makes Etna's signature
white - Etna Bianco Super1ore must comprise
at least 80% ofthe grape and can only be
produced in the Milo commune, east of the
sum mit. The Benanti fa mily showed (in its
Pietra Marina) that varietal Carr1cante can
mature impressively for up to 10 years. Aer1s,
aioint venture between Salvo Foti and the
can ny Californian owner of Rhys Vineyards
1n the Santa Cruz Mountai ns, 1s based on
Carr1cante in its prime location, sites high
above the village of M ilo. This has led to
Sicilian var1et1es being planted on Aer1s
vineyards in Northern Sonoma.
Catarratto 1s very different . the workhorse,
white wine grape of the west . The 1990s infl ux
offlying winemakers occasionally managed to
fash ion interesting wi nes from it, but more
often from its partner lnzolia (the Ansonica
ofTuscany) or the versatile Grillo, a vital
ingred ient in Marsala. S1c1ly's classic fortified
wme is grown 1n the far west of the island,
aro und Trapani, rn vineyards cooled by sea
Prov1nc1a boundary
S1c1ly SOUTHERN ITALY • ITALY
1H
130
0
.00
0
KmO
IOKm
>-
""
""T
�
..
..
..
.
�
..-
-
..
..
..
.
�-.-�
t
N
Comune boundary
M>le.O
5M>le.
f
Etna DOC
Etna Bianco
Supenore DOC
•1oma
• MIJRG() Notable producer
NICOLOSI Comune
Guardto/a Contrada
c=J Vineyards
� Woods
50
0
Contour interval 100 metres
breezes and the influence of Mount Erice.
Marsala 1s a very distant cousin of cream
sherry, invented by Br1t1sh settlers to fortify
Nelson's navy when 1t was based in Naples. For
much ofthe 20th century Marsala seemed to
be m the deepest of doldrums, found only in
the kitchen. Theflame 1s still alive, iust, in the
delicate, largely G rillo, wines of De Bartoli,
Nino Saracco, and the Sruali ofRallo, which
are unfo rtified and therefore non- DOC. Grillo
1s particularly good at retai ning its ac 1d1ty in
the harshest heat, and its sal ine, mineral dry
whites are increasingly valued.
Sicily's celebrated Moscato 1s usually strong
and sweet The Planeta fam ily rescued
Moscato di Noto from near oblivion Nino
Pup1llo did the same for the distinctly different
Moscato di Siracusa - both of them made
from Moscato Bianco/Muscat Blanc grapes,
but in very different e nvironments. The
•I•
ETNA'S CONTRADE
The only wine map in the world
posing as a spider's web? This has
to be one of the most exciting fine
wine zones, and not JUSt because
it lies on an active volcano. Etna's
parishes, or communes, are
subdivided into contrade.
S1c1han Moscatos best-known off the island,
however, are made from Muscat ofAlexandria,
called Z1bb1bo here. The luscious Moscato di
Pantelleria, a volcanic island closerto Tu nisia
than Sicily, has keen ad mirers
Less wel l-known are the sumptuous
Malvas 1as of the Aeolian Islands off Sicily to
the north. Wherever they are grown, they
are called Malvasia delle Lipari; one of the
finest of these orange - scented elixirs,
revived by Carlo Hauner senior, is that made
by Barone di V1llagrande on the island of
Salina. Dry Malvas1as are now being made
because they can be much easier to sell as
IGT Sal ina wherever they are grown
Although not immune, S1c1ly has been less
dominated by the 1t1nerant consultant
oenolog1sts who have guided so many of
Italy's most fa mous cellars. The future clearly
lies with the many am bitious independents.
•I

186
ITALY · SOUTHERN ITALY
Sardinia
Until very recently, wine had not played an
Important part in Sardinian culture since
the island supplied ancient Rome, although
there was a flurry of heavily subsidized
planting In the 1950s to provide reds
discreetly, so alcoholic they tasted almost
sweet, for blending on the mainland
(notably In Chianti) and as far afield as
France and Germany.
During the 1980s, however, the subs1d1es
to plant vines became bribes to pull them
out and the island's total vineyard shrank
�
by almost three-quarters. much of 1t
concentrated on the flat Camp1dano plain
1n the south.
For four centuries (to 1708) Sardinia
was ruled by Aragon, and many ofits vine
var1et1es were Spanish in origin . Cannonau
rs the local hero, and accounts for at least
20% of the island's wine prod uction It rs the
local fo rm of Spanish Garnacha (Grenache),
a chameleon of potential ly hrgh quality,
sweet or dry. The best Cannonau 1s grown
inland, with Sed rlesu and Paddeu making
particularly exerting examples around the
village of Mamorada.
Bovale Sardo and Bovale Grande have been
shown by DNA profiling to be the Spanish
grapes Grac iano and Mazuelo (Carignan),
respectively Widely planted Monica seems
so far to be a Sardinran speciality, but makes
undisti nguished reds. The rare G1r6 grape,
making both dry and sweet reds, is much
more promising, with a smack of cherry
Nuragus rs the whrte equivalent of Monica,
making rather rustic wines. Nasco, another
possibly ancient Sard inian grape, makes soft,
ge nerally sweet passito wh ites. Those who
prefer their wh ites dry could opt for the local
Sem1dano, whose wines in the volcanic soils
of Mogoro have real or1g1nality
In the northwest, near the town of Alghero,
the prosperous firm of Sella & Mosca bet on
the rare, local To rbato grape (known as
Tourbat or Malvo1s1e in Roussillon) for its
d1stinct1ve Terre 81anche wh ite
Sardinia's lift
Crisp, lemony Vermentino 1s Sardinia's great
and increasingly popular gift to the wine world,
now found on the Lrgurran coast as Prgato, in
Piemonte as Favor1ta, and all over southern
France as Rolle. In the rocky, arid northeast
of Sardinia, inland from the modish Costa
Smeralda, Gallura's combination of heat and
marine winds concentrate Vermentlno to such
an extent that Vermentlno di Gallura was the
island's first DOCG. The permitted production
zone of Vermentlno di Sardetna DOC 11
the entrr 1 land ( rs that of Cannonau di
�DOC)
I•
t
11,693,00
0
KmO
20
.IQ
60Km
..-
-
��..
..
..
.
�..
..
..
.
..
..
..
..
���..
..
..
.
M.1-0
20
Provmc1a boundary
i\�1 ��t�� Red wine
CAGLIARI Red and whrte wine
Malvasla di White wme
Bosa
• at!IOI Notable producer
DQl
,G/DOC
boundaries are d1sllngu1shed
by coloured Imes
Landabove50
0
metres
Carlgnano del Sulcla DOC, made in the
southwest ofthe island from the produce
of seriously old, mostly u ngrafted Carignan
(Bovale Grande) bushvines, 1s surely, along
wrth Pr1orat, one of the most successfu l
wines based on thrs (Spanish) variety
Antinorr's renowned oenologist Giacomo
Tachis was a great believer in Sardinia, and
ad vised Barrua, the Joint venture between
the prod ucers of Sassicaia on the Tuscan
coast and Santad r ofSardinia, based on
old·vine Carignan In the Sulc1s Merld1onale
zone a daily average ofseven hours of
sunshine throughout the year and the hot
sc1rocco from Africa irons out any creases
Even before Barrua, Santad1 already made
concentrat ed, velvety bottlings of
Carrgnano del Sulcrs, such as Terre Brune
and Rocca Rubia.
To the north of the capital Cagharr, also
on fa irly flat land in the south of the island,
Arg1 olas had made Sardinia's modern
reputation with Tu rrrga, a combust1vely
concentrated barrrque-aged blend of
old-vine Cannonau, Carrgnano/Bovale
Grande, and Grac1ano/Bovale Sardo -
another Tac h1s proiect.
The ultimate treasures of Sardinia,
however, may be the exceptional Vernaccla
di Orlstano, and the elegant and intriguing
Malvasla di Bosa, both made under flor
in an ox1d1zed style (but unfortified), in
barrels that are not completely filled.
These thrrllrng wines are the Sard m1an
symbols of hospitality and fr1endsh1p,
reserved fo r very special occasions and
special people.
Sardinia undoubtedly has an unusually
varied cac he of raw ingredients It has
countless old bushvlnee of the sort of
fas hionable and interesting grape ve.r1 et1
the modern world demands, growi ng in a
perfect climate The pote ntial 1s there and
1s increas ingly recogni zed

•
•
B
c
D
E
188
Spai n
With more vines than anyone else but few
wines of Interest, Spain was a late starter In
the modern wine renaissance. She has made
up for lost time: new producers, new styles,
Indigenous varieties, and rediscovered
regions are emerging all over the country -
with more still to come.
Spam may be in the warmer latitudes, but a
good 90% of all Spanish vineyards are higher
in altitude than any major French wine
region, which helps to keep thei r wines
relatively fr es h. The cold wi nters are
contrasted by very hot summers, with
sunshine in recent years so relentless that
growers are favo uring north-fac ing sites and
bushvines to shield the grapes from sunburn .
Summer drought has long been a problem in
the south, east, and some ofthe north ofthe
country, so yields are gl?nerally low lrr1gat ron
has been allowed srnce 1995, but only the rich
can afford to bore for water and instal l the
systems to d1str1bute 1t . Dry soils cannot
support many vrnes, so in most regions they
are planted unusually far apart, trad1t1onally
./
�-.\' -'- -'-,/ 'j
Sonlvcar
Sarro
JI RP/ XI Rh ;111 RRY
MANLA�ILLA ;A�Ll ( AR
DI BARRA�I DA
0Almerlo .I
International boundary
trai ned (1fthat 1s the word) m bushes only
Just above ground level Spain, as a result,
has long had more land under vine than any
other country, although both France and
Italy produce much more wine.
Spain's denominac1ones keep multtply1nr.
so it is hard to be exact, but by 2018 there
were 68 DOs; two DOCas, RioJa and Priorat;_
17 single-estate appellations (Vinos de PS$)
);
and seven Vinos de Calidad . There were also
more than 40 IGPs, known locally as Vinos de
la Tierra, including some of Spai n's most
exciting wines, particularly those of Castillay
Le6n and ValdeJal6n in Arag6n.
FRANCE
Vinos de Pip
1 PRADODBIRM:.1
11!
2ARl
lrLINo
3OTAZIJ
..CIRSl5
5AM
elona
6 OOMINIODEVAIJl
l!PI&
7 DEHl!SADBLCA1tRIZ.
IL
8CAMPODI!IAGUAIDIA
9PJ.ORl!Nl'IN
O
10CAMDl!l.ll
lANO
O
11 r.ALZADDJ
J.
12 PINCADz
13 GUIJOSO
14 l!I.Tl
lRltlJIA
7,()
15ll
lS
BALIGUl!
Sl!S
16Vl!RADI!BSl'BNAS
17Cl
l
07.AS�
1 5,350,00
0
Menorca
{M1norca}
c:
:J
Moh6n
SPAIN'S WINI: REGIONS
TORO OOP (Denominacl6n de Ortaen Proteg1da) I
DO CDenom1nacK>n de onaenl
PlII ZlL1Jl
l
1111\\1 �
Eivissa
Th•,.
.
Hema no end to new dl1coverlH of
ancient Spanl1h vlnH that can be per1uaded
to yield wlnH of ,.
.
,, qual ity. The Gredo1
mountain• (H• panel, rl1ht), R1belra Sacra,
the Canarlea, and Valdejal6n are just a
few example1 .
1
(N)
r
IGPMno de la Tierra
Cava DOP/00
Land above 100
0
metres
Area mapped at laraer scale
on page shown
IZO
(lb1�
a
�
Fo
r mentaro
JONI// llfA'l
\0'
\'
""'
I8•0000
0
r-
--
-.-
"'0

The DO system 1s less complicated than
France's AOC hierarchy - or indeed Italy's
DOCs. Most DOs are so large that they include
all sorts ofdifferent terrains and cond1t1on s.
There 1s more than a streak of Latin anarchy
1 n Spaniard s' at titudes to these regu lations,
too: particu larly in the matter of grape
varieties, where there can be some disparity
between what 1s permitted and what 1s
planted In most cases this 1s all to the good, as
so many wine prod ucers are anxious only to
make better wine. A defining character1st1c,
however, has been the habit of buying m
grapes, and often wine. More and more of the
you nger generation of growers are comm itted
to estate bottling, but the custom persi sts.
Spanish bodegas were trad1t1onally places
where wine was aged - often for much longer
than is customary or, m some cases,
advisable. Nevertheless, the continuing
Spanish habit of releasing wine when 1t is
ready to drink rather than ready to sell is
appealing, to say the least. Butthings have
been changi ng m the bodegas. For centuries
American oak was the wood of choice for
barrels, partly thanks to the country's
transatlantic seafar ing. From the 1980s,
however, ambitious Spanish winemakers were
some ofthe most avid buyers of French oak
Not only the source ofoak, but also time 1n
barrel has become more French. The Reserva
and Gran Reserva categories were devised
1mphc1tly to honour extended oak ageing, but
an 1ncreas1ng number of producers now value
intensity over antiquity, and are abandoning or
devaluing their Gran Reservas and bottling even
their top wines much younger. And oak is no
longer the only material for ageing Spanish wine.
TinCJ
J
as (clay jars) are making a comeback, and
there 1s experimentation here, as elsewhere,
wrth amphorae, concrete eggs, and the hke
SIERRA DE GREDOS
The granite and late vi neyard of the G re do
mountains at 1,640-3,940 ft (500- 1 ,200 m) produce
high ly disti nctive wi ne tha t, for local pol ttical
reasons, qualify for one of th re e appellatt0n - Vino
de Madrid and Mentrida in Cast i lla- La Man ha, and
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla Leon - rather than
having their own, whi hi a ham e .
Monks establ ished viticulture h r and the wine
were at one time highlyvalu ed b the court of
Madrid But a rail linkto the much cheaper w111
ofLa Mancha, and phylloxera, was followed b a
steady decline in Gredo wine production u n t i l a
new generation of ambitiou" winemaker a rrived .
They are thrilled b the age of the arnach a
bu hvine and the fashionably tram.pa re n t,
terro ir-expre ive , re freshing, almost Pmot
oir-like red that they can prod u ce. lbtllo Real
vines have yielded some fine dry wh i tes, too.
There 1 no shortage of ram ( ee the ra 111fall 111ap
overl e af), but 'il!m mcrs can be bli lcringly hot.
Spain 1s unusual in its dependence on a
handful of grape varieties; almost 45% of the
total vineyard area is planted with just two of
them· Airen (the pale-skinned grape of La
Mancha planted for brandy production) and
Te mpranillo. Bobal, Garnacha (Grenache), and
V1ura (Macabeo) are also widely planted, but
there Is now a concerted effort to rediscover
and recuperate long-overlooked local varieties
The north
The wines ofthe Basque country, way up on
the Bay ofBiscay around the cities of Bilbao
and San Sebastian, are largely made from
grapes named fo r the town of Hondarrib1a on
the French border. Hondarrab1 vines make the
p1erc1ngly tart, light, appley Basque whites of,
respectively, Blzkalko Txakollna/ChacoH de
Vizcaya and Getarlako Txakollna/ChacoH de
Guetarla (Spanish political courtesy embraces
four languages Gallego, Basque, Catalan, and
mainstream Castilian). The wines, like their
names, can take a bit ofpractice.
The local Prieto P1cudo of Tierra de Le6n 1s
gaming a following fo r its aromatic, fu ll-bod ied
reds, while the spec1al1ty ofArrlbes is the
Brunal grape, called Alfrocheiro downriver in
Portugal. East ofArribes, the moist, warm
Sierra de Salamanca specializes m Rufete, a
grape better known on the Portuguese side of
the border fo r making crisp, hght reds.
However, the ma1or1ty of Castilla y Leon's
vineyards he in the high, landlocked Duero
Valley. Toro, Rueda, and Ribera del Duero are
mapped in detail on other pages, but Clgales,
just north of the Duero, is also making some
serious reds (as well as inexpensive trad1t1onal
reds and rosados) from ancient Tempran illo
vines in particularly rocky soils. The climate is
dry and harsh. At 2,100-2,600ft (650-800m),
and with relatively low rainfal l, fu ngicide sprays
Garnacha vin es thrive in the sla te soils of
the Para1e Galayo vineyard owned by the
nearby village of Cebreros
Sfl'AIN
1U
have rarely been needed. Drought and frost
are the chief enemies here, not disease.
C1gales is higher and cooler than Toro to the
southwest, so its wines tend to have more
ac1d1ty and structure. Some interesting wh ites
and reds are also emerging from Arlanza to
the northeast .
The River Ebro flows southeast all the way
from the Cantabr1an Cordillera on the north
coast to the Mediterranean m Catal unya
(considered on pp.200-201) The Upper Ebro
embraces Navarra and Aloia (see pp.197 and
198-199), where Garnacha and Te mpran illo
meet, buttotheir 1mmed1ate east, Aragon 1s
now becoming significant as a fine wine
prod ucer. In the east 1s the Monegros Desert,
but southwest of here Calatayud, Campo de
Borja, and Car1nena are all becoming
recognized as sources of great- value, and
occasionally great, wine. Calat.,yud is the
highest ofthese, with vineyards up to 3,300ft
(1,000 m), and 1s home to some of Spam's most
successful co -operative exporters, notably
San Gregorio. Both the Gil Fam ily and Master
of Wine Norrel Robertson have fas hioned
first-class wines from old Garnacha bushvines,
one of Spain's long undervalued resources
Until 2013, far too many of these were pulled
up under a misguided EU scheme. These
gnarled stu mps also underpin the reputation
of Campo de Borja, where the Moncayo
mountain helps give the region's sweetly 1u1cy
wines welcome freshness The Borsao group
of co-ops has done much for this DO The
continental chmate and the local c1erzo, a cold,
dry northwest wind, help, too.
The climate 1s s1m1lar 1n Carifiena, but
Garnacha 1s being challenged here by the local
grape that takes its name from the region
(Carignan 1n France). Here 1t 1s being revived
and specially suttable clones selected .
The village of El Tiemblo lies
below the northeastern flank of
the Sierra de Gredos range.

The IGP Valdejal6n 1s a promising small
enclave between Campo de Borja, Calatayud,
and Car1 f\ena It 1s currently being
red i scovered by Fe rnando Mora MW of
Bodegas Frontonio, who is taking fu ll
advantage ofold Garnacha vines, and some
wh ite wine var1et1es, on 1mpover1shed soils
at elevations between 1,300 and 3,300ft
(400 and 1,000 m)
Somontano, mean ing "at the foot ofthe
mou ntai ns", became a DO 1n 1984 Unusually,
Cabernet and Merlot, imported from nearby
France, were grown here at Bodegas Lalan ne
as long ago as the early 20th century. The
local loganberry-scented Mor1stel and tight,
WHERE'S WETTEST AND HOTTEST rN
AV RAGE ANNUAL PRECIPITAT ION
mineral -scented Parraleta, to which Bodega
P1rineos has been particularly fa ithful, are
other d1stingu 1shing features of a region with
a relatively mild cli mate
The east
The vineyards inland from Spain's central
Mediterranean coast put themselves on the
international map before those in the north
There was a time when Manchuela, Valencia,
Utiel-Req uena, Almansa, Yecla, Jum1lla,
Ahcante, and Bullas were regarded as flt only
to provide strong bulk wine for a dwindling
export market. But 1n manyofthese regions
new money and ideas have been put to good
- 449 {10()().1 501
- 11' 9111 !>0-iSO
O
I
- "91 b8901<X 11501
El Te 1de volcano overloe/qi: one ofBodegas
Mon1e's vineyard• on t#Hl 1-/orrd ofTenertfe,
producing win•• that � much fresher than
the "Canary" that was so popular in England In
Shakespeare's day
use to make fruity and even stylish reds.
Deliberately strong and sweet wine is still
made, butthe best can compete with the
better super-ripe reds from California and
Australia. Local varieties are often blended
with international ones, but in Jumllla such
growers as Casa Castillo, and on export
markets the Ord611ez fa mily, have shown how
to tame varietal Monastrell (Mourvedre)
Enrique Mendoza led the way in Alicante, with
wines varying in sweetness, 1f not 1n strength.
He was Joined by El Sequa, established by the
renowned Artad1 of R10Ja 1n 1999. A small
fas hion fo r Ahcante's Fondill6n, a Monast rell­
based answer to oloroso sherry, has been
building. In the DO Manchuela, on a high
plateau with limestone deposits, Ponce and
Finca Sandoval are leading lights, the latter
flirting with grape varieties imported from the
RhOne and Douro valleys. Moravia Agr1a shows
promise. The beefy Bobal, Spain's second
most-planted red grape after Te mpramllo,
dominates both Manchuela and neighbouring
Utiel-Requena, which is also more than
1,970ft (600m) above sea level. Some ofthe
best wines from here are sold either as Vino
de Pago or even as Vino de Espana, as 1n
Must1gu1llo's d1stinct1ve whites based on local
grape var1et1es. D1stinct1ve wines are also
emerging fro m even higher Almansa, at up to
2,300ft (700m), such as those based on
GROWING SEASON AVERAGE TEMPERATURE
\<ounlr} of (•xtntn(' . f10111 th' d1)<.outhJlld11
1
tl'rtor ol th<' count1) (le,.,
th.111 r;oo 111111 :w 111 p(" r \( <1 1 in nHm\ pl.tl l' ) to th< mod< rJ td} \\el (,.tl1ua
111 tlu nortlnH· I (so1m platt'h.1H ow1 I 000 111111 40111 p('i )NI )
Hungc from 111ode 1 .1t,• l ; n>ol d 1ma tt• < ond1t1011' t01 \1t!lulttir<' 111 th, 1101 th
nnd 11orllnH''t to hot and HI} hot �ro\1 1111( '"' "ll" 111 tht ..crn lh (I l.il.l MHll «'
tor both 111,1p� · l 111H'r:>1l) ol ZnrJj!t >Lil, Sp.un, l'):i() :tO I:! )

Ga�nac ha T1ntorera from Bodegu Atalaya,
Santa Qu1terra, and the per1patet1c Envlnate
1roup of winemakers. Yecla and Bullu also
have potential
South of Madrid
Most central of all to Spanish hfe 1s the
meseta, the high plateau south ofMadrid,
whose endless flat vi neyards weary the eye.
The extent of La Mancha, its chief DO, is clear
from the map. Its DO -classified vineyards
alone, less than halfof the total, cover more
ground than all of Australia's vineyards put
together The town of Valdepeftas gave its
name to a large part of th1s prod uction, and
lead ing exporter Fehx Solis has invested
substantially in its bodega here. From the late
1990s, La Mancha has been changingjust as
dramatically as the rest of Spain's winescape,
with a steady conversion from rather
depressing wh ite to a maior1ty ofvarieties for
red wine, much of 1t inexpensive and made
fr om Te mprarnllo, under its local name of
Cenc1bel. Some Garnacha has also long been
grown, but Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, and even
Chardonnay and Sauv1gnon Blanc can be
found here - although exh1b1ting varietal
character in a region where picking has to
begin early in August 1s a p roblem . La Mancha
has possibly more than its fa ir share of Vinos
de Pago, eight in all (see map on p.188). On La
Mancha's northern border 1s Ucles, currently
being energized by Bodegas Fontana.
Between here and Madrid are the DOs of
Mentrida, Vinos de Madrid, and Mondej ar, all
ripe for transformation. The most innovative
vineyards so far have been the Marques de
Grifion's near To ledo With a novel palette of
1mported grape var1et1es (including Syrah and
Petit Verdot) and new ways ofgrowing and
Watering vines, the marques engineered the
"first DO Pago in Spain, Dominio de Valdepusa.
ABO�A OOP/00
OOP/00 boundaries are d1stingu1shed
by coloured Imes
More centred on ancient local vi nes, especially
Garnacha, are the wines of Qredos (see p.189)
Due west of La Manc ha, 1n Extremadura near
the Portuguese fro ntier, Is the extensive and
relatively recent DO Ribera del QuadlanL
Here, too, there 1s considerable potential for
robust, ripe wines, s1m1lar to those ofAlenteio
over the Portuguese border Some ofthe
most interesting wines, such as those from
Bodegas Habla, are labelled Vino de la Tierra
de Extremadura.
The lalanda
The Canary Islands, once the source of
Spai n's most fa mous sweet wines, lie far to
the southwest in the Atlantic, only 100km
(62 miles) fr om Afri ca. They have joined in the
DO game with zest, and are now on the radar
of the world's trend-conscious sommehers.
The overarching DO Islas Canar1as has been
added to a DO each for the islands of Gran
Canar1a, La Pal ma, El Hierro, the volcanic
Lanzarote, and La Gom era. Te ner1fe has no
fe wer than five (see map below) and, at least
official ly, 15,000 acres (6,500 ha) of vines of a
dozen local var1et1es. Tangy, marine, and
citrus-peel whites are made from such local
grape var1et1es as Marmaiuelo (Bermeiuela),
Gual (Madeira's Boal), and L1stan Blanco
(Palomino Fmo), while interesting reds are
emerging fr om Baboso Negro (Alfroche1ro),
V1jar1ego Negro (Su moll), and the dominant
L1stan N egro.
In the Mediterranean, the past 20 years
have seen the ancient vineyard s of Mall orca
recover from near exti nction with both local
grapes and imports. Manto Negro gives hght
red s, the rarer Gallet something more
seriously red The two DOs are Pia I Llevant
to the east and Blnlssalem in the centre of
the i sland. Ibiza and Fo rmentera are starting
to make an impact on wine lovers, too.
0
Islas Ca naries
�
�
,J(
Lanzarofe V'frrecife
La Palma
VAL L£ DE
I.A OIWTAVA
YCQDCN·
D"�Il
l.
ll>OR
�o
La Gomera
THE CA NARY ISLAN DS
TACOBON TE
�
@
'J:
:
i;!,;:'&
,
.,o
GHAN CANAKIA
GranCanario
These volcanic islands off the coast of Morocco have a
unrque v1ticultural heritqe - vines that have never known
phylloxera - and a long history of making dlstr nctrve wrne
from rndrgenous varieties and low, wrndswept bushvines .
Fuerfjj
venfura
0
p
dI
•
uerto e
Roso no
1 4,047,500
KmO
50 Km
l"'AIN
111
THE LANGUAGE OF T HE LABEL
Colt \NH llL:\ll� LLI ltl
GRAN R �PJIVA
20 1!
l.OAI ·DA 01 AIAVA "OJA
QUALITY DESIGNATIONS
Denomlnaci6n de Origen Callftcada (DOCa)
Spam's top wme u1>l 111ct 1011, so far awarded only to
R10Ja, JIHI loPrioraL, where itI>know11 as DOQ
Denomlnacl6n de Orlgen (DO) pmn's il nswcr tu
Fra nce\ AOP AOC (sec p.52) and equ1v,ilent lo the
E 's Denommac1on de Ongcn Prolegida(DOP),
which al�o mdudcs DO a and DO Pago (sec below)
Denomlnacl6n de Origen Pago (DO Pago)
reserved for smgle C>tates p rod uc mg particularly
creditable wmcs
Vino de Pueblo, VI de Vila some DOs such as
RioJa, B ie rzo, and Priorat have developed a
Burguntl ia n - m ;pired classification that allows some
wme; to be old a' theproduce ofa &mgle village
Vino de Caridad con lndicacl6n Geografica (VC)
a steppi ngstone to full DO status
lndicacl6n Geografica Proteglda (IGP) the ne w
EUdenommat1on that 1sgraduallyreplaung Vmo de
la Tierra (Vc!IT), Vi de la Te rra m atalan
Vino or Vino de Espai\a the b asic EU
denommatton replacing the old Vino de Mesa, Vi de
Ta ula m atalan
OTHER COMMON EXPRESSIONS
Ai\o year
Blanco wh ite
Bodega winery
Cava wine made sparkling by t he traditmnal method
Cose cha vmtage year
Crlanza wine aged for a minimum of two years
a�er the harve t, of which al least six months (12 m
R1oja and Ribera clel Duero) mu t be in oak
Dulce sweet
Embotellado (en orlgen) bottled (estate bottled)
Espumoso s11arkh ng
Gran Reserva selected wine aged for at lea t
18 24 months m oak and 36 42 month m bottle
Joven wine old the ear after harvest having seen
Iittle ornooak
Reserva wme matured for ll prolo nged period
accordmg to appellation - usua lly less for whites
Rosado rose, pink (Clarete IS hght red)
Seco dry
Tinto red
Vendimia harvest (Hntagc)
Vino \\.1n
Vino generoso fortified w rne
c
o
D
'f
[
T

•
..
.
•
c
D
T
E
T
192
SPAIN
Nort hwest Spai n
In recent years the climate in eastern and
southern Spain has grown steadily warmer.
At the same time the pendulum of fas hion
has swung back in fa vour of wines that
refresh rather than merely impress - a cue
for cool, damp northwest Spain and its
wines. They are attracting more atte ntion
from wine enthusiasts - and not Just the crisp
dry wh ites of Rias Baixas described opposite.
Almost all Spanish whites need added ac1d1ty
to give them zip, but not m Galicia.
Trad1t1ons here are Celtic (as the Gallic
name suggests). The Atlantic, the hills, the
wind, and a good deal of ram (see the map on
p.190) are the chief physical factors, the
typically Gahc1an highly parcellated natu re of
the land 1s a human one. Wines are mainly
light, dry, and refreshing. The Palomino and
red -fleshed Alicante Bouschet vines that
were pressed into service here after
phylloxera have been largely replaced by
more suitable local grape var1et1es
The white wine region Ribeiro, just up the
Mino river from Rias Baixas but protected
from the Atlantic by the Sierra del Suido,
shipped wine to England in the Middle Ages,
long before the Douro Va lley to the south
The trade disappeared and vineyards were
Provincial boundary
-®-
R1be1ro DOP/DO
R1beira Sacra DOP/00
Valdeorras DOP/DO
B1erzo DOP/DO
0Wlafn
n
ca
delBlmo Wine centre
VAWl!SIL Notable producer
•
120
0
Contour interval 30
0
metres
J
'
?
I•
abandoned all over this corner ofSpam.
Today, producers are more bullish and
consumers more receptive. The grape
varieties fo r dry white R1be1ro are Treixad ura
(often 100%) plus Albar1i'10, Loure1ra,
To rrontes, and, increasingly, the Godello of
Valdeorras A little red is made here, too,
mainly from the highly coloured Ahcante.
Rlbeira Sacra, fu rther inland, makes
Galicia's potentially most interesting red
wine (and some fine white Godello), m arc haic
cond1t1ons on almost 1mposs1bly steep slate
terraces above the rivers Sil and M 1i'lo. The
phrase "heroic viticulture" springs to m i nd.
The fru itily scented Mencia 1s the best red
grape, also grown in the small but revitalized
Monterrei region (offthe map to the south,
and warm enough to ripen Te mpranillo),
although most wine 1s wh ite, and based on
Godello. Quinta da Murad ella has been a
leading exponent of Monterre1 since 1991.
Valdeorras has established a name for its
firm, mineral - scented Godello, which can yield
extremely fine varietal wines worth ageing.
Those of Rafael Palacios can evolve and
titillate as much as any Puligny-Montrachet,
but its reds are also carving out a re putation.
Mencia 1s important here, too.
Mencia is also the basis of fas hionable
Bierzo, one of Spam's fr uitiest, most
aromatic, distinctively refreshing reds,
grown on the River Sil with strong Atlantic
influence, m conditions very hke those of
Galicia but JUSt ove r the border into Castilla
y Le6n Alvaro Palacios of Priorat and his
nephew Ricardo Perez put 81erzo, and indeed
Mencia, on the international map. It was the
slate and quartzite terraces of 81erzo,
rather than the predominating clay, that
persuaded them, together with the fact that
almost 80% of Bierzo's 7,415 acres (3,000ha)
of vines are at least 60 years old, with many
ofthem centenarians. Descendientes de
J Palacios produced wines with a grace
and finesse not found m a generation of
concentrated, oak- heavy products. Today,
there are almost 80 bodegas m 81erzo, not
all expressing the same refinement, but
most of them making an effort.
Raul Perez 1s the consulting wmemaking
wizard in this green corner of Spain, where
less widely planted Gallc1an red wine grapes
are gam ing grou nd, both in blends and even
varietal wines. Most of them are also grown
m Portugal, under another name. Across the
border Merenzao is Bastardo, Carabui'le1ra 1s
To ur1ga Nac1onal, and Sous6n and Caii'lo
Tinto are known 1n Vinho Verde country as
Vmhao and Borrac;al, respectively. They are
fa r from the only local spec1aht1es here.
11,00
0
,00
0
KmO
10
20
30
'40Km
���..
..
..
.
�
..
.-
..
..
..
.
��..
..
..
..
�--
-'
Molo.O
10
20Milo.
-

Rias
Baixas
Gallcla's best wines are as far from the
Spanish stereotype as It I• poHlble to
imagine: dellcate, lively, aromatic whit••
that 10 perfectly with th• shellftsh that
Is the standard Gallclan diet. With the
exception of Martin C6dax, Condes de Albare1,
and the Arousana co-operative (owners ofthe
Paco & Lola brand), everything about Rias
Ba1xas (pronounced "ree-ass by-shu ss") wine
is small - scale. Some ofthe best ofthe region's
200 bodegas make only a few hundred cases
of wine a year; most growers have only a few
hectares of vines. This damp, green corner
of Spain (compare the annual rainfall of V1go
with that of any ot her Span ish weather
station) was until recently extremely poor
and virtually ignored by the rest of the
country. Any Gallego with any gumption
emigrated, but tended to cling fiercely to
ownership of minuscule parcels of inherited
land. This, and Galic1a's physical isolation,
meant that 1t was not until the 1980s that
these singular wines began to find a ready
(and rapturous) market outside Galicia.
Like the wines, the landscape 1s exceptional
for Spam: irregu lar At lantic inlets called rias,
which are effectively shal low fjords, I med with
hills that are densely forested with local pine
and rapacious eucalyptus imported in the
1950s. Even the vines look quite diffe rent.
As in Portugal 's very s1m1lar Vinho Verde
country ac ross the River Mino, vines have
trad1t1onally been trained on pergola- like
parras, horizontal trellises well above
light-dappled shoulder height. The widely
spaced, spindly trunks are often trained up
posts ofgran ite, the common building
material in this part of the world. For the
thousands ofsmall fa rmers who grow vines
simply to make wine for themselves, this high.
<Canopy al lows them to use every sq uare foot
f precious earth; their cabbages grow
\>eneath. But it can also help ventilate the
� a pes , an important cons1derat1on where
�
m ists regularly invade the vineyards,
�
en in summer.
The thick-skinned Albar1f\o grape dominates
ht!re. Ofall grapes 1t can best resist the
'mildew that persistently threate ns, and young
Albarli
i
o has a fa ithfu l followmg. There 1s
Increasing exper1rnentatron, however, with
blends, oak, and dehberat� aged wines.
d•
2IJ
D
International boundary
Provln�lal boundary
Rias Balxas DOP/DO
Illas lalxaa •ubzonea
Rlbelra do Ulla
Val do Saines
Soutomalor
Cond1do do Tea
0 Rosal
•wr Notable producer
-'6i?- Contour Interval 20
0
metres
Weather i!l
lt
lon (WS)
I•
1 567,00
0
Sll'AIN
1U
-(�
l
KmO
10
15Km
i-
-
�--� ..
..
.
..
..
..
�..
..
..
�
MA.0
I0Milo.
RIAS BAIXAS SUBZONES
Val do Sai nes is by far the most important
subzone, and the dampest. In O Rosal to the
south, the best vineyards are on the south-fac ing
slopes of its many hills and produce wines
notably lower in acid ity. Rugged Condado do Tea
is the highest, coolest subzone, being furthest
from the coast; its wines, from terraced vines,
tend to be more powerful and less refi ned
RIAS BAIXAS: VIGO
Latitude / Elevation ofWS
42.24° / 856ft (261 m)
verage growing season temperature at W
62.2°F (16.8 °C)
Av erage annual rainfall at WS
70 in (1,786mm)
Harve st month rainfall at WS
September: 4in (1 02mm)
Principal viticu]Lural hazards
Fungal diseases, high winds
Prin ipal grape varieties
W: Albariiio, Trelxad ura, Lourelra Blanca
•I•
A
T
•
c
c
o
0
T
E
T
F
ii

194
SPAIN
Ribera del Duero
The Duero only featured In the ftrst
editions of this book in the 1970s as the
Spanish name for the Douro river (the
home of port), and for one wine, the
eccentric but marvellous Vega Sicilia.
Then came bombastic agricultural
engineer Alejandro Fe rnandez, whose
Pesquera was such an International
success that it tempted a host of new
investors. Now the ban k (ribera) of the
Duero rivals Rioja as the country's
foremost red wine region.
The plain ofOld Castile, stretching in tawny
leagues north from Segovia and Avila to the
old kingdom of Leon, 1s traversed by the
adolescent Duero. On this high plateau,
averaging 3,000ft (850 m), the nights are
remarkably cool; in September 1t can be
86°F (30°C) at noon and 39.2°F (4°Cl at night.
Spring frosts are all too common, in late
Aprll 2017, the mercury fe ll to 19.4°F ( -7°C).
Grapes are routinely picked in late October,
sometimes as late as November The light
and air have a high-altitude dryness and
brightness about them, as do the wines,
which have particularly lively ac idity, thanks
to those cool nights. These are concentrated
reds of remarkably intense colour, fr uit, and
savour - quite different in style from the
ty pical prod uce of Rioja less than 60 miles
(100km) to the northeast - even though the
principal grape, Te mpran illo, 1s the same.
Vega Sicilia, a grand estate with an
unparal leled 600 acres (250 ha) of vineyard,
provided the initial proof that very ftne red
wine could be made here . The estate was
ftrst planted in the 1860s, at the same time
as RioJa was being invaded by Bordeaux
merchants and infl uence. Vega S1c11ia's
Unico, made only in good vintages, aged
longer in oak than virtually any other table
wine, and sold at 10 years (after some
years in bottle nowadays), 1s a wine of
astonishing, penetrating personality But
in this landmark wine, Bordeaux grapes,
unusually, add a little cosmopolitan glamour
to the native Te mpran illo (a locally adapted
version known here as Tinto Fino or Tinta
del Pais). Val buena 1s aged for a mere ftve
years before releas e . Ah6n 1s a sister
bodega and wine, aged fo r a shorter time
in new French oak - the modern face of
Ribera del Duero.
Rapid expansion
Ribera suddenly became hugely fashionable
in the 1990s, with Alejandro Fernandez's
Pesquera shining an early light There were
just 24 bodegas in the region when the DO
was created in 1982. By 2018, there were
more than 300 - 100 of them established in
the previous 10 years (Many of these
bodegas, 1t should be said, are
unencumbered by vineyards). This wide,
high plateau has seen a quite remarkable
transformation of land previously devoted
to cereals and sugar beet. Today, it has
more than 55,600 ac res (22,500ha) of
vines. In the boom years, to cope with
demand, some of R101a's most productive
In the 1970s and early 1980s, the region's only
exporter of wme, apart fr om the icomc Vega
Sic1l1a, was Protas, a co-op based m Penafiel,
whose htlltop castle fe atures on the labels of
Protas Reservas.

'•ovm lal bou!'dary
- �1bera del Duer'l DOP/0
0
• taHom W1Pe C'entre
KmD
� Notable producer
Milo
o
O
100
0
Contour interval 100 metres
..
.
Weather sll
l
tlon (WS)
Local politic• rather than geography are
responsible for the exclusion of this area
ff'om the offlclal Ribera def Duero DO
:>egovm
Key to produc1rs
t
1 671.00
0
10
lOl(m
10
15Ml1-
1 IXJMINIO DH PINGUS
2ARZl
lAGA
NAVAR
RO
10 MONTJ!CASl
'RO
11 PAGODELOSCAPHLIAl
ll!S
12CARM1!LORODERO
3VHGASICl
lJA
4DEl
ll!SA
DE LOS CANONIGOS
5HACl
l!ND
A MONASTl!RIO
13AWNSODEL\'l
lR
RO
14 RF.ALsmo DE Vl!Nl'OSIL
LA
15GOYOGARCIAVIADEKO
6MATAR
RO
MHRA
7BMILIOMORO
(BODl!GAS VALDUERO)
8CONDEDEMNCRISTOBAL
9Ll!GARIS
16CIL
LAR
DESILOS
lanes of Tempranillo were planted, but the
ocal gove rnment has been working hard to
evelop bette r-quality clones particularly
ell suited to the region.
V1t1culturists can easily be foxed by R1bera's
xtremely varied soils, even within a single
ineyard , where grapes may ripen at
nfur1atingly different paces.
L imesto ne outcrops found north of the
uero help to reta in rai nfall that is far fro m
ge nero us, but sandy loams and clay loams
re more common.
The ave rage holding of the more than
,000 growers 1s less than 7 4 ac res (3ha),
o the trad 1t1on of buying in grapes is JUSt as
trong here as in RioJa, and many of these
ew bodegas vie with each other fo r fr uit.
ome of the best comes fro m the triangle
ormed by the villages of Roa de Duero,
La Horra, and Ped rosa de Due r o . Peter
Stsseck, the Dane who made Dominic de
Pingus Spai n's rarest and most expensive
wi ne, has sought out some of the oldest and
truest of gnarled, crouching Tinto Fino
bushes around La H e rra.
ol
Two of the more successful producers
in the region are not even within the DO
boundaries and sell their wines as the much
less precise IGP Castilla y Leon. Abad fa
Retuerta, a vast property founded in 1996
by Swiss pharmaceutical company
Novartis, is at Sard6n de Duero, JUSt west
of the official boundary. {In 1982, when the
DO regulations were being drawn up there
were no vines here, but there had been
vines almost continuously from the 17th
century. The abqey was one of Val ladohd's
chief suppliers of wine until the early
1970s. ) Even fu rther we st, in Tu dela,
1s Mauro, founded in 1980 and now
established in a handsome old stone
building by Mariano Garcia, once Vega
S1c1ha's win emaker. Garcia 1s also involved
in making Aalto, just one of many newer
names in Ribera del Duero, where, 1t seems,
reputations can be made in a single v intage.
Other investors have included Fe lix Solis
(Pagos del Rey}, Alonso del Ye rro, Marques
de Vargas (Conde de San Cr1st6bal}, To rres
(Celeste), Fau st ino - many of them already
R I BERA DEL DUERO • ll'AIN
1H
THI WINI CINTlltlS 0, THI DUllltO
The broad, hl1h valley ofthe Duero and It•
trlbutarlH have made wine for centurle1,
prHumably more becau1e of local thlr1t
Valladolid, u the capital of 17th·century Spai n,
fo rmulated strict wine law1 - than because the
l'lerce continental climate fav oured th• vi ne.
There is increasing fo cus on higher
areas in the east of the region,
with the village of Atauta being
particularly blessed with old vmes.
well established in other wine regions,
especially ne1ghbour1ng R10Ja Relatively
recent arrivals are Cava prod ucer
Fre1xenet, which invested in Valdub6n;
La R1oja Alta with Aster; and CVN E of
R1oia with its winery at Angu1x.
'"
RIBERA DEL DUERO:
VALLADOLCD
Latitude / Elevation of WS
41.70° / 2,775 ft (846 m)
Ave rage gro\\ ing season temperature at WS
so.3°F (15.1°c)
ve rage annual rainfall at W
17in (435mm)
Har e·t month rainfall at W
October: 2 .1in (52mm)
Principal ilicuJtural hazards
Spring fr ost, autumn rai n
Pri n 1p�I grape \Urielico
R : Tinto Fino I Tinto del Pais (Tcmpranlllo)
•
I
c
ii
D
T
E
T
'
o

A
I
c
ii
D
T
196
SPAIN
To ro and Rueda
The1990swasatimewhenpowerfulcritics
rated wines for their horsepower. To ro, in
the far west of Castilla y Le6n, had only
eight bodegas; its wine was widely and
justly regarded as rustic, lffull-throttle,
but the sheer exuberance of its local strain
ofTempran illo, Tinta de To ro, became too
obvious to ignore. By 2006, there were 40
bodegas; by 201 8, 62. High-profile Spanish
investors included the owners of glamorous
Ribera del Duero bodegas Vega Sicilia and
Mauro as well as the roving winemaker Tel mo
Rodriguez. Even the French moved i n. Franc;o1s
Lurton fr om Bordeaux and fa mous oenologists
Michel and Dany Rolland of Pomerol were so
impressed by Tinta de Toro's ripeness levels,
they embarked on ajoint venture, Campo Eliseo
LV MH acq uired the highly regarded Numanth1a
bodega from its Riojano owners at the top ofthe
market in 2008. Nor could Toro's success be
ignored by the US-focused Ord6nez fa mily
The key to Toro's quality 1s, as so often m
Spam, its altitude. At 2,030-2,750ft
(620-840 m) above sea level, the region's
growers can depend on cool nights to "fix"
TO RO AND NORTHWESTERN RUEDA
The map includes all ofToro but only the
vinously most important, far northwestern
portion of the Rueda zone. It extends outside
the province of Valladolid into Segovia (home to
Avelino Vegas, Blanco Nieva, and Ossian), and
Avila (see map on p.188). Several producers
make both wines.
t
\
N
}
r
�j Maderol o
,,
colour and flavour m the grapes ripened
during the torrid summer days on the
region's various soils . There 1s some red
clay but most of the soils are so sandy and
1rnm1cal to the phylloxera louse that 60%
of the vines are ungrafted .
OfToro's 13,600 acres (5,500.ha) of vines, 80%
are bushvines, with 3,000 acres (1,200ha)
more than 50 years old and 300 acres (1 25ha)
over 100. Because of the near-desert
cond1t1ons - under 16m (400 mm) of rai n a year
- s ome southern vineyards have just 650 vines
per hectare. Some ofthe Tintade Toro that
constitutes 85% of all plantings 1n the region 1s
v1rnfied quickly bycarbonic maceration and sold
young and juicy, but an increasing maiority ofthe
wine 1s aged in oak, in the case of Reservas for
at least 12 months. These are big, bold reds.
Rueda
Neighbouring Rueda 1s h1stor1cally a prod ucer
ofwhite wine from its local Verdejo vine,
rescued from a long decline when Rioja's
powerful Marques de R1scal decided to move
its white wine prod uction here in the 1970s.
Verdejo 1s the characteristic grape ofRueda,
which for years made sherry -like wines, but
Marques de R1sca/'s success with fr esh, dry table
wines was a turning point in the region's fo rtunes.
Verdejo can yield wines every bit as refres hing
as the Sauvignon Blanc that was planted here
more recently. It holds its ac1d1ty well and, to
develop its fu ll mineral potential, can - indeed
should - be picked much later than the rather
simpler Sauvignon Blanc Ofthe region's
55,800 acres (17,000ha) ofvmes, a mere 1,640
acres (500ha) are for red wines, mostly sold
as Vino de la Tierra Castilla y Le6n.
Provincial boundary
PO
OL\
Notable producer
•
Toro DOP/00
c=i Woods
Rueda DOPIDO
-50
0
-
Contour interval
•Veolalbo
100 metres
Wine centre
1416,00
0
�o
w
�
��
1-
-
��..
..
..
..
..
.
�--'"--.
..
�..
..
..
���
�o
w
�
��
)
I
ova del Rey
,,,.
.
--.,
,,.
.
-..
..
Viljl)Verdo do Med1na0•
< �- TIJOlll
MJUI\ >
..,
..
Va lladolid
Poxal de
0Ga ll1 1\

Navarra
'1u•t over the northeastern boundary of
ltloja, the wine re1lon of Navarra was lon1
lri competition with It (and Indeed part of
Prance), until the Bordeaux merchants
those to place their po•t·phylloxera
trade not with this green land of
Mparaius and nurseries, but with Rloja
and Its ready rai l link from H aro. For most
of the 20th century, Navarra's scattered
vineyards were dedicated chiefly to the
Garnacha vme that made usefu l rosados
and strong, deep, blending reds. Then came
a revolution in the form of Cabernet,
Merlot, Te mprarnllo, and the Chardonnay
that sti ll constitutes more than one vme
in every three. Te mprarnllo overtook
Garnacha m total area, and Cabernet
Sauv1gnon became the region's third
most- planted grape. Yet curiously few
Navarra wines from these newer varieties
enjoyed real commercial success, perhaps
because they lacked any special d1stmct1on.
Today, however, Garnacha 1s enjoying a
renaissance, with old vines producing wines
that combine its ge nerosity of fru1t with the
fr eshness of Atlantic influence, particularly
as high as Valdizarbe and Baja Montana in
the north Artadi's Santa Cruz de Artazu
showed the way While the al l-important
co-operatives continue to soak up much of
the region's run-of-the- mill Garnacha, the
San Martin co-op goes fu rther with some
ofthe world's best- value red from their
growe rs' best plots. Domames Lup1er and
Emilio Valerio are among the newer
prospectors to have followed this hne with
notable success. To a more limited extent,
the high-flavou red Grac iano of Rioja is
gaining grou nd. V1iia Zorzal and Ochoa make
particularly good exam ples
Many of the wines of Navarra taste hke a
cross between R1oja and Somontano:
obviously oaked but using a fu ll palette of both
Span ish and international var1et1es. French
oak 1 s used more commonly than m Rioja,
perhaps because oak ageing came so much
fater to Navarra, but also because more
ofthe vineyard 1s devoted to French grape
varteties. The words "Crianza" or "Reserva"
on a label are clues to a R1oja- hke wine.
North and south
)4avarra is no more homogeneous than R1oja,
however. There 1s a world of difference
betwe
e
n, fo r instance, the hot, dry, flat Ribera
Ba.la subzone m the rain shadow of the Sierra
del Moncayo to the south, which has to be
rrr1gated (with a system of canals initiated by
the Romans), and the less- planted cooler­
climate and more va ried soi ls ofthe north
Ribera Baja's best Garnachas come from
I80
0
,00
0
Km0
10
20Km
t-
-
----..-------..
..
..
-.
.
Milol0
10
15Milo
o
NAVARRA SUBZONES
Navarra is a three-climate region. The
northwest enjoys an Atlantic climate with
31 .5m (BOO mm) of rain in an average year,
while the northeast 1s decidedly
conti nental. In the south, just east of RioJa
Baja, the climate is Mediterranean and
average annual rainfall today has fal len to
Just 11.Sin (300mm).
---
Provincial boundary
- Navarra DOP/00
Navarra subzonlS
c=J
OCHOA
•
-400 ·
lierra Estella
Vald1zarbe
Ribera Alta
Baja Montana
Ribera Baja
Notable producer
Contour interval 20
0
metres
F1tero, perhaps because of its poor,
Ch8.teau neuf- like soils and proximity to the
Bardenas Reales desert. Just to the north of
F1tero, the Corella bodega has earned a
reputation for excellent botryt1zed Moscatel
de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc a Petits
Grams). Camilo Castilla, meanwhile, 1s the
bodega that nurtu red the variety, and
remains Spain's master oftrad 1t1onal rancio
Muscats, aged for marw years m old oak.
Ribera Alta, where about a third of all
Navarra's vines grow, 1s a transitional
subzone between north and south
A day that 1s pos1t1vely torrid m the south
of Navarra can be quite cool m the
mountai nous north, closer to the At lantic,
where the persistence of the westerlies has
spawned virtual forests ofwmd- powered
ge nerators on mesas above the vineyards.
As in R1oja, northern Navarra's altitude and
prox1m1ty to the Pyrenees means that the
Bordeaux var1et1es are picked considerably
•I•
l�AIN
117
later than in Bordeaux itself - sometimes
well into November m the highest vineyards.
Baja Montana (clay with some limestone)
produces mainly rosados. In the northern
subzones of Tierra Estella (whose geology
can be identical to Rioja Alavesa to the
1mmed1ate south) and Valdizarbe, aspects
and elevations are so varied that their
pioneering growers have to select sites with
extreme care. Spring frosts and cold
autu mns he m wait for them. Nonetheless, it
was m Tierra Estella, perhaps with climate
change in mmd, that Ch1v1te, now owned by
Grupo Perelada, originally chose to invest
heavily and ambitiously m an h1stor1c estate
Arin zano. Its blend of Tempran illo with
Cabernet and Merlot was outstanding
enough to earn 1t Pago status, Spam's
highest a single-estate denom1nat 1on of its
own. Today, Armzano 1s Russian-owned, and
Navarra now has three more Vinos de Pago
(see map on p.188).
•I
"'
c
o
)
T
'
T

•
•
I
c
c
o
D
..
.
E
'
'
..
.
198
SPAIN
Rioja
Spain's emblematic wine for over a
century and a half has had to adapt to
pressures of all sorts In recent years, but
Rloja has conditions that make the region
almost ideal for growing fine wine, as its
magnificent older bottles prove.
Te rroir High-altitude clay with varying
degrees of limestone.
Climate Cool continental in the west,
warmmg towards the Mediterranean.
Grapes R: Te mpranillo, Garnacha
(Grenache); W: Vi ura (Macabeo), Marvasia
A region encompassing 152,000 acres
(61,500ha) of vines 1s of course var ied . In the
far northwest of R1oia, some ofthe highest
vineyards above Labast1da may sometimes
struggle to ripen their grapes, but in the east,
vines as high as 2,600ft (800m) ripen easily,
thanks to the warming infl uence of the
Mediterranean, fe lt as far west as Elc1ego.
Growers in Alfaro in the east may harvest four
weeks before those around Haro, where the
growing season can be so long that the last
grapes are not picked until the end of October
R1oja's harvest is usually one of Spam's latest.
R1oia 1s d1v1ded into three subregions. Rioja
Alta is where most of the traditional top
prod ucers are situated. The Atlantic 1s only
43 miles (70km) from its western boundary
and annual rai nfall here averages as much
as 25.6in (650mm) In much warmer, lower
(985-1,150ft/300-350m) Rioja Oriental
(previously known as R1oia BaJa), annual
rai nfall averages JUSt 15 7m (400 mm)
Rloja Alavesa in the Basque prov ince of
Aiava is the most Atlantic of all three regions
but 1s well sheltered by the rocky wal l of the
Sierra de Cantabr1a. Vineyards here, as m
Rioja Alta's Sierra de la Demanda, can be as
high as 2,300ft (700 m).
In RioJa Alavesa about three-quarters ofthe
land in R1oja Alta about half - 1s planted with
vines; the landscape is a spotted patchwork of
small plots, often of low bushv1nes, on terraces
eroded to different levels by the river (the
higher the better, although they can be more
difficult to cultivate). Clay-limestone
predominates in R1oia Alavesa and In R1oia Alta
around Haro, Briones, and Cenicero, while
higher parts ofRloja Alta around Ni.iera and
Navarrete are more likely to have some
fe rrous clay. The soils of R10Ja Oriental,
ge nerally alluvial with fe rrous clay, are even
more varied than those of RioJa Alta, and Its
vines much more sparsely c ultivated .
In 2017, the ConseJO responded to
cr1tlcl1ms that the DOCa R1oja was too big
I>
and no guide to qual ity by mtroducmg a
series of new distinctions A fa shionable
single-vineyard wine 1s now labelled Vll'\edo
Singu lar, while those from a single town or
zone are Vino de Munlc1p10 or Zona
respectively. This was after the flnanc1al
cr1s1s of 2007/8 fo rced numerous R loja
producers out of bus iness. But the number
ofbodegas 1s once more on the rise,
reaching more than 609 in 2018 (almost
double the total m 1990). Span ish wine
without R1oja 1s unthinkable. ·
Te mpranillo 1s by far the most important
variety, planted in 84% of vmeyards m
2018 (up from 61% m 2012). It blends well
with Garnacha, but Te mpranillo has
syste matically been re placing this plumper
grape so that the proportion of RioJa'S
vineyard planted with Garnacha halved to
9% in the same period - iust as its quality
began to be celebrated by the appearance
of some 100% Garnacha r1oias The variety
does best m R1oia Alta upstream of Najera
and m R1oia Oriental m the high vineyards of
Tudelilla. Grac iano (known as Morrastel in
the Languedoc, in Portugal as Tmta Miuda)
is a fine but finicky R10Ja speciality that now
seems safe from extinction, with varietal
ve rsions such as Contmo's or Abel Mendoza's
commanding robust prices. Mazuelo
(Carignan) 1s allowed, and experimentation
with Cabernet Sauvignon uneasily tolerated .
Rloja's true character
Oddly enough, Spam's most fa mous, most
important wine began the 21 st century
with a search for its true character. The
reputation ofthe region was made in the late
19th century, when Bordeaux negoc1ants
came here to fill the embarrassing voids 1n
their blending tanks left by phylloxera north
of the Pyrenees With its rai l links to the
Atlantic coast, Haro was the ideal centre
for blendmg wine brought in by cart, usually
in wmeskms, from as far away as R1oia
Oriental The Bordeaux merchants showed
how to age 1t m small barrels, and thus
were born many of Hare's most important
bodegas, all fo unded around 1890 and
clustered about the railway station in the
Barrio de la Estac16n - some even with their
own platforms.
Until the 1970s, most RioJa was JUICY stuff
made by small-scale far mers (in villages such
as San Vicente you can still see stone
lagares, or troughs, behind half-open doors
hung with the handwritten claim Se Vende
R/oj a). Blending and age ing, not even
winemakmg, let alone geography, were the
key R10Ja was fe rmented fast and then
matured for many years in old American oak,
resulting In the classic style denoted on the
bac k label Crianza, Reserva, or Gran
Reserva accord ing to how long the wine
spent In barrel. The results were pale wines,
sweet with vanilla, that could
be beguiling provided the
grapes were of impeccable quahty
The end ofthe 20th century saw a
revision in wmemakmg techniques in
many bodegas (most ofwhich now make
their own wine, 1f not grow their own
grapes). The thin-skinned, gentle
Te mpranillo began to be macerated much
longer and bottled much earlier, after
ageing m oak that was often French rather
than American. The result was wine that
was deeper and fru1t1er - in short, more
modern, and more likely to be sold vmtage­
dated rather than with one ofthe
trad1t1onal ageing categories on the back
label. Today, a return to more trad1t1onal
styles 1s perceptible, though not by any
means universal
New French oak had been introduced to
the region m 1970 by the Marques de
Caceres bodega at Cenicero, the midpoint
of R1oia without extremes of climate.
Grapes grown west of here tend to have
more ac id and tannin, those to the east,
less. Another, less controversial,
development has been the rise of single­
estate wines such as Allende, Contino,
Macan, Remellur1, and Val p1edra, and a new
RIOJA: LOGRONO
Lat itude I Ele allon ofWS
42.45° / 1,158ft (353m)
Av •r,1ge gro-w 111g '"a,011 tempcralu1 e <1 l WS
64.8°F (1a.2•c>
J\H· 1.i gc annual ra1nf,1 ll Jl WS
161n (405 mm)
Jfun(' S! mon lh ramfall at \\-!->
Octobo r: 1.41n (37 mm)
l'unnp,d vll1cu ltu1 11 h L .l
l
<b
Frost, fu ngal dlseas s, drought

KmO
Mlo
o
O
---
Provincial boundary
·60
0
·
Contour interval 150 metres
- R1oia DOP/DOCa
c:
::
::
:J
Area mapped at larger scale below
llio)a subzona
"' Weather station CWSJ
OONrlNO
•
R101a Alavesa
R101a Alta
Rioia Onental
Notable producer
Vineyards - 1ntens1ve cultivation
C:J Vineyards - dispersed cul!ivat1on
C=
=:J
Woods
breed of younger, terroir- driven prod ucers
such as Artuke, Abel Mendoza, Ohv1er
R1v1ere, David Sampedro, and Tom
Puyaubert (Exopto), whose model is more
Burgundian than Bordela1s.
Only about one bottle of R1oia in 20 1s of
white wine, with the most-planted grape
V1 ura (Macabeo) supplemented by limited
amounts of Malvasfa R1oiana and Garnacha
Blanca. Smee 2007, Chardonnay, Sauv1gnon
Blanc, and Verdejo have also been allowed,
and a handful of more Spanish white wine
var1et1es have since been added to the list,
but they remain unusual. Mindfu l oftrends
OUtJi
i
lde the regio n, the Consejo is also
�ncouraging Rioia rosado
Eaay-drinking ne�rality 1s what most white
Riojas seem to aim fo r - a pity, because
oak-aged whit. Rioja, enriched and reft ned
for a decade ortwo m barrel and bottle, can
ch�lenge the great&at whites ofBordeaux.
L6pez de Heredia ,. the name to coniure
with Its Vifla To ndonia (white, red, and pink)
IS one of the great or1g1nals
Dlnastfa Vlvanco's exceptional
wine museum Isjust on• ofseveral
spectacular modern wine -related
edifices In Rloja
,,.
150
0
,0
00
10
15
llJ!Cm
10,,.
.
RIOJA • lll'AIN
1f
f
• ailboo
Zarogo1.o •
Mac6.n is a1oint venture between Vega Sicilia of
Ribera def Duero and Baron Ben1amin de Rothschild
ofChdteau Clarke in Bordeaux.
•I•
120
0
,00
0
Km0
5Km
1-
-
..
..
..
.
..
..
..
.
..
..
..
..
..
..
..-
..
..
..
..
..
.
Mol.O
31Mo
o
HARO
Contour interval 50 metres
•I•
c
0
D
T
E
T
r
o

•
•
•
c
c
o
0
'
200
SPAIN
Catalu nya
Catalunya (Catalonia In English) Is
culturally distinct from Spain. A visitor
to Barcelona and Its coast fe els it In the
air. Its independent urges are no secret.
From its architecture to its gastronomy,
Barcelona is one of Europe's most dynamic
c1t1es, as close to France as to Casti le.
Between the Mediterranean cond1t1ons of
their coast to a much cooler subalpine
ch mate m their northern hills, Catalans have
the opportunity of makmg a vast range of
wines. They don't waste 1t.
Most obviously, on shelves and wine lists
throughout Spam, there is Cava, Spain's
answer to champagne, of wh1ch 95% 1s
produced m Catalunya, mainly from the
vineyards on the fe rtile plateau at 600ft
(200 m} around the wine capital ofSant
Sadurni d'Anoia m Penedes (See the map on
p.188 for the other parts of Spain allowed to
make Cava) The industry, for that 1s what 1t 1s,
is dominated by arch-competitors Codorniu
and Freixenet (now owned, respectively, by an
American private equity group and Henkel! of
Germany). The wmemaking method may be
that of champagne; the grapes are very
d iffe rent. Macabeo dominates most Cava
blends, its late budding promising good
insurance against spring frost . D1stmct1ve
local flavour comes fro m the local Xarel-lo,
best planted at lower altitudes, and now
extremely modish as a still wi ne. The relatively
neutral Parellada yields crisp, appley wine, at
least in the north of Penedes, 1f not allowed
to overproduce Chard onnay constitutes
about 5% of all plantings, while Pmot No1r
is permitted for the increas ingly popular
pink Cava . Lower yields and longer bottle­
age 1ng are stead ily improving the quality
of the best Cava.
Specific single-vineyard wines may now
officially be described as Cava de Paraie
Calificado - a re sponse to some of the more
amb1t1ous producers, such as Colet and AT
Roca, abandoning the Cava DO 1n fa vour of
the geographically more specific Penedes.
Many a Catalan producer 1s now trying to
distance their sparkling wines from the giant
Cava category - by labelling 1t Pe nedes,
Classic Pe nedes, Conca del Riu Ano1a or even
without a specific appellation.
P•n•d•• has long been Catalu nya's leading
DO for still wines with particularly direct
flavours International vine var1et1es are
more widespread m Penedes than anywhere
else 1n Spain; it was here they began, in the
19601, with such pioneers as Jean Le6n and
Miguel Torres, the Catalan wine giant (with
an ad mirable concern for sustai nability).
Having made the point with Mas La Plana
Cabernet and M1lmanda Chardonnay
(Milmanda Is 1n the quite distinct inland
Conca de Barbera region, on limestone hills
north of Tarragona), the Torres fam ily have
been searching for and trialling local Catalan
grapes, mlt1ally for their origi nal red smgle­
vmeyard blend (also from Conca de Barbera},
the notable Grans Muralles . The red -s kinned
Trepat grape 1s establishing a fo llowi ng for
wines both still and sparkling, not least from
Abad ia de Poblet, a noted wine prod ucer
within a 12th-century C1sterc1an monastery.
The increas ingly common Catalunya DO,
which encompasses all Catalan regi ons
(and sanctions blending between them)
was introduced m 1999, largely because
the expanding Torres operat ion found the
Penedes appellation too constricting. The
hottest, lowest vineyards ofthe Ba1x-Penedes
by the coast pour forth Garrut (Monastrell),
Garnacha, and Car1nena for blended dry(1sh)
reds. At medium altitudes Cava is the main
thing, but more amb1t1ous growers, often with
vineyards carved out of the Mediterranean
scrub and pines on higher land up to 2,600ft
(800 m), are doing their best to squeeze
serious local character out of relatively
low-yieldmg vines, both indigenous and
imported varieties. The move uph1ll 1s also
driven by nervousness about climate change.
The Ta rragona DO, immediately west of
Penedes around the city of that name (once
fa mous for intense sweet wines}, also
supplies raw material for Cava m its hills as
well as some pretty heavy wine from lower
land Higher, western vineyards have their
own DO of Montsant, encircling the Pr1orat
DOCa described on p.202. The greatest
concentration of notable bodegas 1s around
Falset, a h1gh-alt1tude one- horse town that
1s the gateway to Pr1orat but hes iust outside
1t. Seriously concentrated dry reds can be
produced here from a wide range of grape
var1et1es, although they lack the benefit
of Pr1orat's d1stingu1shing soil. Geller de
Capc;anes and Joan d'Anguera set the
CATALUNYA: REUS
La titude / Elevation ofWS
41 .15° I 233ft (71 ml
Ave rag growing sea on temperature at WS
ee°F (20°cJ
Average annual rmnfall atWS
20in (497 mm)
Harvc,l mon th rai nfall al WS
Septemb er: 31n (75 mm)
Pri ncipal v1licu llural hazard-,
Drought, fungal diseases
Pr111c1pal grape variclJes
R : Te mpranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cariiiena; W : Parcllada, Macabeo,
Xarel-lo
pace, whrle world-class Garnacha is grown i n
the Espectacle vineyard of Rene Barbier and
Christoper Can nan.
To the south and west in the high country
of the hot, sunny Te rra.Alta DO, Garnacha
Blanca 1s the dominant grape variety; indeed,
a third of the world's plantings ofthis
increasingly popular grape are in Terra Alta.
Other forms of Garnacha are also grown here
as well as Macabeo, Parellada, and Sams6
(Car1nena}. Terra Alta's increasingly fine
whites have been losing weight; Edetaria and
Abadal (LaFou} are the leading producers.
Further Inland
The Costars del Segre DO, consisting of
seven widely scattered subzones, is only
hinted at on this map (see the map on p.188
for its fu ll extent}. Garr1gues 1s iust over the
Montsant range from fa shionable Priorat
in s1m1lar, though slightly less wild, terrai n .
Tomas Cusine has long shown the way here.
Old Garnacha and Macabeo bushvines
at elevations of up to 2,460ft (750 m}
have considerable potential, but now it is
Tem prarnllo and international var1et1es that
are being trellised among the almonds and
olives. Breezes from the Mediterranean
minimize the risk of frost. Castell d'Encus
1s the leading hght ofanother superior
subzone, the high Pallars
Llghtish but spicy international varietal
wines are made on lower ground to the
northeast, in the Vall del R1ucorb subzone,
while Artesa de Segre, way to the north, has
more in common with Somontano to the west
tn Arag6n. And then there 1s the vast Raimat
estate, quite literally an oasis in the semi­
desert northwest ofLle1da, thanks to an
1rrigat1on system developed by the Ravent6s
fa mily of Codornru. The wines produced here
are more New World than Catalan.
On the coast immediately north of
Barcelona the vine-growers of Alella do battle
with its real-estate developers, and have
202
0
la Fotorollo
Vilolba
del. ""
"'
So
•I

Ravent6s 1 Blanc fa rms th• Vlnya dels Fo ssils,
named for th• fo ul/• In th• sot/ here, and Is one
ofth• more prominent reflJg••• fr om the Cava
DO, label/mg Its fine, d•flnltlve/y Catalan fizz
Conca de/ R1u Ano/a.
largely abandoned 1nternat1onal varieties in
favour ofthe local Pansa Blanca (Xarel lo) that
flourishes on the zone's sau/6 gran ite soils.
Of
f
th1s detai led map, but on the map of
Spam (see p.188), 1s the Pia de Bages DO,
centred on the town of Manresa due north of
Barcelona. Although it has some interesting
old P1capoll (cal led Clai rette in Languedoc),
1t has also been planted with Cabernet and
Chardonnay. The northernmost of Catal unya's
DOs, Emporda on the Costa Brava, offers a
burgeo ning range of well- made blends, both
red and white, some 1n the image ofthe best
wines of Rouss1llon over the Pyrenees.
Meanwhile, V1 de Finca has been developed
as an official Catalan answer to Vino de Pago,
the Cast1han estates with their own DO.
All in all, Catal unya could be said to be in
fullfe rment.
To rres is gradually increasing the proportion
of recently rediscovered indigenous Catalan
vine varieties in its Grans Muralles vineyard
by the Cisterc1an monastery of Pob/et, the
spiritual heart ofCatalunya .
COASTAL CATALUNYA
1 615.00
0
CATAL UNYA SPAIN
201
�o
�
�
��
Milo
o
0���� ..
..,.
..
..
..
.
���,�0 �..
.._
�..
..,.
,5-�
�--'
El Brue
Q
0C oll\>at6
P1erola
g:�.��at
0
---
Provincial boundary
• PARX Notable producer
e ���lies Noted vineyard
Cava DOP/DO
-
-
-
-
-
Terra Alla DOP/DO
Tarragona DOPICO
Montsant DOP/00
1
N}
Pnorat DOP/DOGa/DOQ
Costers del Segre DOP/DO
Conca de Barberi DOP/DO
Thia la a complicated map, and It doesn't I nc l ude the
outlyin1 wine zones of Catalunya (see map on p.188),
many of which are worthy of ser1ous interest .
� Area mapped at larger scale
on page shown
-
Penedes DOPIDO
• Weather station (WS)
-
Alella DOP/00
E
T

.•
202
SPAIN · CAT ALUNYA
Priorat
Before the arrival of phylloxera there were
12,350 acres (5,000ha) of vineyards In this
dizzying landscape ofcrinkle-fo lded hills
(this is not country for the nervous
driver). Carthusian monks had established
a priorat (priory) here in the 12th century
and, of course, planted vines.
By 1979, when Rene Barbier of Clos
Mogador first saw the potential of this
historic region, there were only 1,500 acres
(600 ha) of mainly Cariiiena vines left, and
the wine they produced was fa irly rough
�
stuff In 1989, he persuaded four fr iends to
share winemaking premises and grapes in
the village of Gratallops Their wines were
quite disti nct from the rustic, ra1siny
fe rments that were then standard for
D
i
Priorat - concentrated, mineral-laden wines
that were very different from the oaky
Spanish norm - so different, in fac t, that the
first vi ntage was not awarded a DO.
Inspired, the pioneers soon set up bodegas
of their own : Jose Luis Perez (Mas
Martinet), Daphne Glorian (Clos Erasmus),
Alvaro Palacios (Finca Dofi and L' Erm1ta)
and Carles Pastrana (Clos de l'Obac) Such
was the international acc laim for, and prices
of, these wines (their scarcity helped, too)
that the region has since been invaded and
quite literally reshaped by incomers - some
from Penedes, some from as far away as
South Africa. By 2018, the total vineyard
area had grown to 4,700 acres (1,900 ha),
more than a third with a grad ient steeper
than 30°, and there were more than 100
bodegas - all in a region where shepherds
and donkey carts were commonplace until
very re cently.
So why are the wines so special? Pr1orat 1s
ad mittedly protected from the northwest
by the Sierra de Montsant, a long ridge of
craggy outcrops. But it 1s its particularly
unusual soil, ll1corella, a dark- brown slate
whose jagged rock fa ces sparkle in the sun
with their sprinkling ofquart zite (see p.26),
that makes the best Priorat the almost
chewab le essence that 1t 1s Annual rai nfall is
often less than 201n (500 mm) a year, which
in most wine regions wo uld make 1rr1gat 1on
a necessity Priorat's soils are unusually
cool and damp, however, so that the vine
roots tunnel Douro-style through fa ults in
the llicorella to find water The re sult In the
best sites is almost ridiculously low yields of
arresti ngly concentrated wine.
Carlllena is still the most widely planted
vine by far and, especially in the north of the
region around TorroJa and Poboleda, the
vines are old enough to yield top-quality
grapes, vinlfled by (among many others)
Terro1r al Limit, Mas Do1x, Mas Martinet,
,.,
..
..
..
.
/
Torrogono
'
'
'·
11'46,00
0
KmO
�
5Km
Molo
o
�
i-
-
--..
..
..
�-�..
.
2 -�-3
..
�..
Marc Ripoll at Cal Batllet, Perinet, and C1ms
de Porrera. Ancient Garnacha planted in
cooler, slower-ripening sites such as Alvaro
Palacios' fa mous L' Ermita vineyard 1s also
highly val ued, but of the more recently
planted imported varieties, only Syrah
seems successful Garnatxa (Garnacha) and
Car1nyena (Car11\ena) are fa voured by the
rules of Vi de Vila wines that were introd uced
in 2009 and must come fro m one of a dozen
selected villages.
,.
Municipal boundary
Pnorat DOP/DOCa/DOQ
Montsant DOP/DO
-(
�
1:1.
.l.!WB.
V1 de Vila/Vin de Vila
&!MAW Notable producer
•
..,.
Gran <lo!I Named vineyard
Vineyards
Woods
--=-oS1Q
--=
Contour Interval 100 metres
PFllOPIAT'S VILLAGE WINES
The 12 vlllqe zones ofthe VI de VIia, or vl llqe
wine, scheme are mapped above. Montsant
Is on Prlorat's southern doorstep, but lacks
the special lllcorella soil that can be tasted
In ao many of the wi nes produced In the
topographical cocktai l that 1s Pr1orat

Sll'AIN
203
Andal ucia - Sherry Cou ntry
Hlatorically, for many centuries, wine In
Andalucla m-nt vinos generosos, a self·
translating term: sherry above all, but also
the slmllar·but·dlf
f
erent wines of Montilla•
Moriles and Milap.
.
Sherry 1s arguably Spam's
1reatest and most original wine - but modern
history here has been moving in other
directions. Breakneck development on the
Costa del Sol has been matched by the rapid
spread of vineyards destined for unfortified
wines, both dry and sweet
The key to producing wines with fr eshness
as well as southern ripeness is, yet agai n,
altitude. The mountains rise straight up from
the villas, golf courses, and building sites along
the coast A vineyard planted JUSt a few miles
from the Mediterranean could well be more
than 2,600ft (800 m) above the sparkling blue
sea, its nights as cool as the days are hot.
Above the Costa del Sol
At the end of the 19th century, Malaga was
known the world over as a treacly wine made
sweet and strong in the town itselfeither
by drying grapes or by addinggrape spirit
during fe rmentation. By the arrival of th1s
century, this style had all but disappeared
and the DO regulations were rewritten so
as to include much paler, aromatic, naturally
sweet wines, mostly Moscatels, which
depend entirely on the Andalusian sunshine
fo r their sugar and alcohol.
It was Te lmo Rodriguez, originally from
R101a but a force for good in several parts
ofSpain, who revived Malaga Moscatel as a
fr es h, fr agrant but delicate wine with his
tangy, tangerine-flavoured Molino Real.
Creative US-based importer of Spanish
wines Jorge Ordonez, himself a native of
Malaga, answered this with a nectar made
from ancient Moscatel vines grown high in
the hills. Almijara's Jarel 1s another notable
example and Bodegas Malaga Virgen and
Gomara continue to make a dazzling array of
trad1t1onal vmos generosos. Other producers
of re markable sweet wines in this part of the
world include Bentom1z and Capuchina.
At the same time, reflecting the emerge nce
of Douro table wines in port country, the
Sierras de Malaga DO was created for
the dry table wines, red as well as white,
that have proliferated from the ras h of new
plantings in the region In the 1980s, there
were Just nine wine producers in the region.
Today, there are more than 45 growing and
makrng wine from a wide variety of grapes,
including local red wi ne specialtt1es T1ntilla de
Rota (ahas Grac iano) and the rare Rome.
Ofthe five subzones in this most
mountainous part of Spai n, Axarq ufa 1s the
driest. In this eastern, coastal area with slate
soils, sun-dried Moscatel is the most common
wine - along with the raisins that have their
own DO Pasas de Malaga - but the Sedella
bodega has shown that this subzone can
produce fine reds, too. The Montes subzone
surrounds, and 1s fighting a losing battle
against, the town of Malaga. ManiIva, with its
Moscatel vines infl uenced by both the At lantic
and Mediterranean, extends along the coast as
far west as sherry country, and shares some of
Jerez's white albar1za soils, but is also very built
up. The vines planted on the plateau ofthe
Norte subzone, many of them mechanizable,
trad1t1onally supplied the bodegas of Montes,
but there are signs of real potential here.
However, the currently most dynamic
subzone 1s around the hilltop tourist magnet of
Ronda, where both international and Span ish
varieties have proliferated. Wines are varied,
and can be quite surprising, considering the
latitude Who wou ld have thought that Prnot
Norr could thrive this far south?
.
'
.-, '"�(
:\·�
�
L,,
When fe rmentation of the b ase wine i s complete,
it t classified as e i t her a wine light and delicate
enough tobea lino, ora fullerwinethati
cla sifted a an oloro o. A lino, fre h and vibrantto
mell,light 1n alcohol, will be fortified withgrape
spirit to 15% to mature under a protective, white
bread-hke l ayer of a strange Jerez yea t called llor.
(Flor, which ha a very special effect on the wine,
is proving u ceptible to climate change.)
Oloroso , on the oth e r hand , are matured in
contact with airanddeliberately fortified to at
lea t 17% to prevent thegrowth offlor.
Sherrie bottled a finosare thefine t and
pale t: distinctive, bone-d ry wines that need a
minimum of blending Even lighter anddrierare
the manzanillas o f Sanl(1car de Barra meda,
madeju t like a fino and blessed witha faintly
al ty tang which 1s b elieve d to come from the sea
a in a wa 1t doe · the more temperate climate
makes theflor much more a tive. An aged
manzanilla (the term 1 pasacla) is s u b l ime with
seafood . popular, relat1vel new o rt of herry
i thatdescribeda en rama, or "raw". The e
fi no and manzanillas are relea eel with o n ly the
li ghtest of clar1 ficat1ons o that t h ey taste mu h
clo er to a ampletaken traight from thecask
Amontillado, a darker more comphca t ed w111e,
i the ne t categor Thebe t amont1llado are
oldfino Ill which theflorisno longer
protectively active a l tho u gh the name has
more often been used fo r export blends t h a t
are m chum in every sen e of the word, and
general ly have about 40g/I ofsugar
True classical, l ong-aged oloroso, dark,
forb1dd111gly d ry, a n d bi t 111g, is less common, but
a great favourite with Jereza no themselves
ommercial b rand labelled ol oroso or cream
are younger, coar er exam ple sweetened to as
much as 130g I ofsugar with PX ( ee Montill,1 ,
p.205); pale cream 1s deliberate!} robbed of
colour The e ba ic blends were hugely popu l a r
111 sherry's heyday, especially inthe UK and
etherlands. Palo eor-tado, on the other hand , 1s
a true, cla sical, rich-yet-dry ranty, ometh111g
between amontillado and oloroso.
In a further attempt toattract fine winednnkers
to their n eglected wines, herry producers have
dev1 ed a way of 1gnalling and certifyi ng notable
age and q uality: VO and VORS sherries are more
than 20 and 30 year old, respectively. And 12 and
15-year-o ld designations ofage have also been
implemented They are a much collector 'piece
as the great doma ine -bottled burgundie They are
also the least expen ive fine wines in the wo rld

•
..
204
SPAIN · ANDALUCI A SHERRY COUNTRY
The hinterland of the Costa del Sol has
even been described as the new La Mancha
in terms of expansion Some of the Vinos de
la Tierra made around Granada, at altitudes
of up to 4,488ft (1,368m) for Barranco
Oscuro's vineyard - continental Europe's
highest - suggest that this could even
eventually be one of Spai n's most exciting
regions for unfortified wines.
Chalk and grapes
But what of Jerez-Xeres-Sherry and Mont1lla­
Mor1les, the heart of Andalucfa's wine industry
for more than 2,000 years? Upwardly mobile
theyare not, with both a surplus ofgrapes
and, shockingly for those of us who treasure
unique qualities m wi ne, a deficit of customers
Thanks to this widespread and misplaced
apathy towards sherry outside Andalucfa,
the total area of sherry vineyard shrank from
almost 57,000 acres (23,000ha) 1n the early
1990s to around 16,000 acres (6,500ha)
today. In places the white horizon is a
desolately empty sight.
Shrunk 1t may be, but nonetheless Jerez
has seen the emerge nce of some exceptional
new bodegas to add to its roster of fa mous
names. Fe rnando de Castilla and Bodegas
Trad1c16n are two. And Equ1po Navazos, a
particularly fast idious small-scale negociant
run by Valdespino winemaker Eduardo Oieda
and criminal law professor Jesus Barquin,
has unexpectedly breathed new life mto fine
sherry by unearthing and bottl ing great
1nd1vidual casks or 500-litre butts (bota) m
the huge bodegas of Jerez, Sanlucar, and
Montilla. Another new development is the
Yo u can tell how dry the cl/mate 1s here in
Mont1lla-Mor1les by all the effort that goes mto
painstakingly laying out Pedro Ximenez (PX)
grapes to dry in the sun
mcreasmg amount of unfortified, generally
soft but d1stmct1ve table wine made from
grapes grown m sherry vineyards, usually
sold as IGP CM!lz
Sherry's great d1stmct1on is finesse. It 1s a
question of chalk, and here of the breed of
the Palomino Fmo grape, of huge investment,
and long-inherited skill. Not every bottle of
sherry, by a very long way, has this quality -
m fac t, the sherry aristoc racy could be said
to have been ruined by oceans of poor wine
shipped from Jerez in the 1970s and 1 980s.
But a real fino or manzan illa, the finely judged
produce ofthe bare white chalk hills of
Macharnudo or Sanlucar de Barrameda, 1s an
expression of wine and wood as v1v1d and
beautiful as any in the world .
The sherry country, between the ro mant1c­
sounding cities of Cadiz and Seville, 1s almost
a caricature of grandee Spam. Here are the
patios, the guitars, the fl amenco dancers, the
night-turned- into -day. Jerez de la Frontera,
the town that gives its name to sherry - the
Moorscalled 1t Sherish - lives and breathes
sherry as Beaune does burgundy and Epernay
champagne, even if consolidation, closure,
and takeover have meant that there are far
fe wer sherry exporters than there were
even 10 years ago
The champagne comparison can be
carried a long way Both are white wines
with a d1stmct1on given them by chalk soil,
both needmg long trad 1t1onal treatment to
ac hieve their special characters Both are
rev 1v1fying aper1t1fs, of which you can drink
an astonishing amount in their home
cou ntries and only fe el more alive than you
have ever fe lt before They are the far ­
northern and the fa r-southern European
interpretations of the same equation: the
white grape fro m the wh ite ground Virtually
all the remai ning sherry vineyards are on
best at retai ning
precious moisture; the
pagos (d1str1cts) of
Carrascal, Macharnudo,
Anina, and Balbafna are
the most fa mous The
exceptions are the sandy
coastal vineyard s that can suit
Moscatel grapes well
Bodegas and banquets
The shippers' headquarters and
bodegas are in the sherry towns ofSanlucar,
El Puerto de Santa Maria, and, especially,
Jerez There are little bars in each ofthese
towns where the tapas, the morsels of food
without which no Andalucfan puts glass to
mouth, constitute a banquet . A cop1ta, a
glass no more imposing than an opening
tulip, 1s traditional here, though modern
connoisseurs say sherry deserves the same
large glass as any fine white wine.
The most celebrated sights of Jerez are
the historic bodegas. Their towering
whitewashed aisles, crisscrossed with
sunbeams, are irresistibly cathedral-like. In
them, in ranks of butts typically three tiers
high, the new wine 1s put to mature Most wilt
not leave until they have gone through the
elaborate ageing and blending process of the

ANDALUCIA SHERRY COUNTRY • IPAIN
201
(l
t.or t
Atalaya
Muntc1p10 boundary
Pago
• Um'AU Bodega of particular Interest
Vineyards
Woods
Contour Interval 20 metres
Y
Weather station (WS)
-- ......_
solera system.
Wines of notable
distinction may be sold
unblended, either as a single
vintage wme, a fa irly recent
revival designed to kick-start
the connoisseur market for
sherry, or one advertised as
straight from an almacenista, or
stockholder
The solera system involves a
progressive topping- up of older barrels
from younger ofthe same style so that
wme 1s continuously being blended, thus
el iminating variation The new wme 1s put
In butts to age as a vintage before being
eclass1fied to go with a specific criadera
<'Pfl
ursery (the Spanish term reflecting the
i®a of ra1smg ch1ld ren, or plants) according
to tts category Each year a proportion of
wine fr om the oldest and final stage ofthe
solera system is bottled so that the younger
wines move up mto the next nursery class to
co n tinue thei r education. In general, the
more stages, the finer and older the wme.
Montilla
Likethe sherry region, sandier Montllla­
Moriles JUst south of C6rdoba has also been
shr1nk1ng The DO's name incorporates two
of�
towns with the best (albar1za)
vineyards. Its produce was long blended m
Jerez as thoogh the two region s were one,
ht Montilla 1s different. The Montilla grape
is not Palomino but Pedro Ximenez (PX),
Wh ich 1s still regularly shipped to Jerez for
rnakmg sweet wme there Montilla's much
IJ
1 90,860
higher altitude and more extreme climate
naturally result m even stronger musts,
which has always allowed it to be shipped
without fortificabon, m contrast to sherry.
A peculiarity of sweet PX 1s that it loses
alcohol as 1t ages, and very old exam ples may
be little more than 10% from cask Once the
two -year minimum age ing period 1s up, the
wme 1s ready. heavier but softer than sherry,
slipping down like table wine. The blackest,
st1ck1est, most tooth- rottmgly syrupy
re nd1t1ons have recently enioyed the
spotlight of fas hion, in Spam at least, and
are far from overpriced Alvear, Toro Albala,
and Perez Barq uero are the bodegas that
set the standard.
•I•
THE MOST-CELE•..AT ED ll'AGOS OF
JEREZ AND SANLUCA..
The contrut between the 1hrlvell9d extent of
the vineyards on th11 map compar.ct to thoH on
its counterpart In the 4th (1971) edition of thl1
Atlu pai ns its co-authors, sherry lovers both
JEREZ:
T
JEREZ DE LA FRO TERA
L a titude / Elcntion of WS
36.45° f 180ft (55m)
Average growing ea on temperature at WS
71.4° F (21. 9°C)
Ave rage annual rai nfall at WS
24 in (600 mm)
Harvest mon th rau1fall at WS
August: 0.2in (5mm)
Principal v1t 1cultural hnzarcb
Drought
Principal grape 1 Jrtelte'
W: Palomlno Fino, Pedro Ximenez, Moscatel
I•

Portugal
Th• recent touristic llmell1ht Is a new
experl•nc• for most of Portucal, a
Mafarin1 nation whoM win•• and vines are
aa domi nated by th• Atlantic as its people
have been for centuries. Deeply local and
continuing traditions include indigenous
arape varieties that have only recently been
properly evaluated and exploited (and may
still travel under different names in diffe rent
regions) International varieties never gai ned
a real foothold. So, as well as ocean ic
freshness, Portuguese wine has a not- so ­
secret weapon. original flavou rs.
To ur1ga Nacional from the Douro and Dao
1s probably the Portuguese grape best
known outside Portugal To ur1ga Franca 1s at
least as highly regarded by those who make
both port and Douro table wine. Tinta Ror1z
(known as Te mpranillo in Spain) can thrive all
over Portugal - but blends are becoming
more co mmon than varietal wines.
Important exceptions to this are Baga and
81cal, the grapes that respectively define
red and white Ba1rrada, the pale-skinned
Encruzado of Dao, and Alvarinho 1n Mom;ao
and Melga�o. the heartland of Vinho Verde
country in the fa r north.
There are imports, too. Syrah and Alicante
Bouschet (which en1oys honorary Portuguese
status) can be pos1t1ve ad ditions to red
blends in the Alentejo. Growers, though, are
real izing what a small proportion of native
grapes can bring to a wine, especially the
THE LANGUAG E OF THE LABEL
.
. ·.·.·:..
.
·
:
·
.
·
.
·
.
.
·
.
.
.
.
.
.
QUALITY DESIGNATIONS
Denominat;:io de Orlgem Controlada
12%voL
750..,L e
(DOC) Portugal's an swer to France's AOC/AOP (see
p.40) and equival ent to the EU' Dcnomina�oes de
Ongem Protcgidas (DOP)
lndicat;:io Geografi ca Protegida (IGP) the E
denomrnalion that 1 (very) grad u ally rcp l.i 1 11g
Vinho Regional (VR)
Vinho or Vinho de Portugal the b<lsk E L'
denonunat10n replaung the old Vi nho de Mcba
ones that ad d freshness and aromatic Ii� -
qualities threatened by warmer weather
Lightness of touch 1s happily re placing
heavy-handedness in the cel lar
In this century Portugal has emerged as a
serious wh ite wine prod ucer, too The quality
of Vinho Ve rde has improved enormously
(see p. 209). Ari nto, the dominant variety of
the Bucelas region, 1s increasingly prized
elsewhere for the ac idity 1t brings to blends,
especially in the AlenteJO. Bairrada's Bical
can also age well, as can Dao's reward ingly
complex Encruzado, which yields fu ll-bodied,
rather burgund1an wh ites as well as tighter,
leaner versions from new wave winemakers.
Perhaps most surprising of al l is that the
OTHER COMMON EXPRESSIONS
Adega winery
Armarzem or Cave ce llar
Branco white
Colheita vintage
Doce weet
Engarrafado (na orlgem) bottl ed (estate bottled)
Garrafelra a wine wt th extra agei ng, lite rall a
wine store
Maduro old or mature
Palheto Lrad1tionnl blend of_re<l nml wlu te grapes to
make a p111k wme
Quinta farm or estate (Herdade is the southern
equivalent)
Rosado rose, pink
Seco dry
Tinto reel
Vinha v1n yurd
Vlnhas Ve lhas old vi nes
On Pico, the Azores archipelago's most
intensively planted island, the Azores Wme
Company's success has led to a revival ofthe
island's distin ctive chequerboard ofblack
basalt-walled vineyards (c urra1s).
torrid Douro can produce such exciti ng,
fu ll-bodied whites, often blends ofV1osinho,
Rab1gato, Codega de Larinho, and Gouveio
(Spain's Godello). And this 1s without taking
into account the great wh ite grapes of
Madeira (see p.221) or Portugal's most
recent eruption of winemaking talent on the
Azores In the last edition of this Atlas the
Azores merited only a bare mention
Verdelho, Arinto dos A�ores, and Terrantez
do Pico are now making fine, often mineral,
sometimes salty white table wines on these
volcanic islands where the trad ition was for
sweet ones.
Portugal's table wines caught up fast with
the evolution in modern winemaki ng. A new
ge neration of well-educated winemakers have
learned to capture the fruit afthe1r native
grapes m the bottle, in wines that do not
req uire ageing for a decade before they are
drinkable, as they once did Some are
experimenti ng, hke their counterparts
elsewhere, with orange wines, Pet-Nats, and
many a trad 1t1onal technique. Pest1c1des and
herbicides are in retreat Another recent
trend has been the emergence of micro­
negoc1ants, wine producers who can afford
grapes and a label but not land.
Portugal has retained her ind1v1duahty, but
she has at long last joined the greater world
of wine. Today, the Douro, the Alente10, Dao,
Bairrada, and Vinho Verde have fo rged global
reputations. Other regions may still be finding
their way, but there 1s no doubt that Portugal
can offer more character and value than
many other countries And wine 1s nationally
important. viticulture represents 35% of all
agricultural activity, a higher proportion than

•
..
.
208
PORTUGAL
m any other country. Admittedly, the country
1s not vast, but different regions are subject
to the very diffe rent influences of At lantic,
Mediterranean, and even continental climates.
Soils, too, vary enormously· granite, slate,
and schist m the north and inland; limestone,
clay, and sand by the coast, and the sch1st
that 1s also sought out by qual ity-fo cused
producers m the south
A world ftrat
The Douro 1s one ofthe world's first
demarcated and regulated wine regions (m
1756), and long before Portugal's entry into
the EU in 1986 many other d1str1cts had been
demarcated and every aspect of their wines
controlled - not always to their benefit.
Some DOCs - notably m Lisboa and the
AlenteJo - seemed dictated more by the
needs of local co- operatives than by st rict
cons1derat 1ons of quality.
Portugal's wine map, like that of Spam,
has sprouted a rash of demarcated regions
The regulations of Portugal's DOCs (DOPs),
emulating those of France's Appellations
d'Origme Controlees (AOCs/AOPs), prescribe
)
the permitted local grape var1et1es
Increas ingly important, however, 1s the V1nho
Regional (VR/IGP) category of wmes from
much larger regions and with more flexible
regulations. The map shows the approved
wine names; the key reveals their status.
Duriense 1s a Vinho Regional ge nerally used
for declassified Douro wines, for example,
that are typically made from mternat1onal,
or at least non-local, grape varieties such
as Syrah, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc.
The productive Tej o region is named after
the River Tagus (Teiol, which flows southwest
from the Spanish border to Lisbon. The fe rtile
riverbanks used to produce vast quantities
of decidedly light wine, but towards the end of
the last century EU subs1d1es persuaded
hundreds of lacklustre growers here to
uproot their vines. Total production has
shrunk and the fo cus of Teio wine prod uction
has now moved away from the riverbank
towards the clays of the north and sandier
scrub m the south There has also been a
move towards the nobler indigenous grapes,
notably To uriga Nac1onal and Arago nes, as
we ll as imports such as Cabernet Sauv1gnon,
Merlot, and more recently Syrah. Fruity, 1f
re latively simple, Castello 1s the most
important local red grape, although some
Trmcade1ra is also grown. Whites are typically
based on the arrestingly perfumed Fernio
Pires, although Chardonnay, Sauv1gnon Blanc,
Ar1nto, and latterly Alva rmho and V1ognier
have made promising inroads
In the south of Portugal, the Vin ho Regional
category 15 much more important than DOC.
Mo t Algarve wine 1s sold as V1nho Regional
Alprve rather than under the name of one
1f 1t four DOCs Algarve wine qual ity has
PORTUGAL'S WINE
REG IONS
Portugal has been working
on ratlonallzlng its wi ne
nomenc lature. Names In red
apply to the most precise,
o�en h1stor1c, wines while
those in black refer to an
IGP or Vinho Regional with
looser regulation s .
International boundary
BAIRRADA DOP/DOC
!J
J!
!J!
!J.
IGP/Vmho Regional
Land 50
0
-100
0
metres
-Landabove100
0
metres
r'2i
ii'
Area mapped at larger
�
scale on page shown
GOLAR[
(\
215
220
risen as the hold of the co-ops, and the
quantity produced, has shrunk, and outside
Investors have moved m . The qual ity
revolution seemed to have bypassed the
remote, mountai nous northern DOCs Belra
Interior and Traa-oa-Mont••. but their
poor granite and schist soils and continental
climate certai nly have potential.
ESPANA
NA
1 2.50
0
.00
0
oifJ
The grapevine 1s not the only plant in
Portugal ofinterest to wine d rinkers. The
southern half of the country has the world's
greatest concentrat ion of cork oaks (see
photo on p 206), so that Portugal 1s the
principal supplier of wine corks. It 1s a brave
Portuguese wine producer who pursues a
screw-capped path

Vinho Ve rd e
Of Portu1al's many wildly dlff'erln1 styles
of wi ne, the most sln1ular remains Vlnho
Ve rde, the youthful "green" (verde, as
opposed to maduro, or aged) wine of the
northernmost province, th• Mlnho.
Te rrolr Generally relatively low- elevation
shallow, sandy, ac idic soils over granite
with small patc hes of schist, especially
In the southeast. Some areas are quite
heavi ly wooded .
Climate High rainfall (up to 63 in/1 ,600 mm
a year, but mainly in winter and spring), and
temperatures ranging between 46°F (8°C)
in winter and 689F (20°C) in summer - so
not unlike the Pacific Northwest, with
coastal areas more maritime and cooler
than inland ones.
Grapes W : Loureiro, Arinto/Pederni,
Alvarinho, Trajadu ra/Treixadura, Azal;
R: Vinhio/Sousio
The Minho is the river that defines the
northern fro ntier between Portugal and
Spanish Gali cia. Its province accounts for a
seventh of Portugal's wine harvest. Green 1s
an apt word for this Atlantic-washed region's
verdant landscape, and for many years 1t
was also appropriate for the tart wines 1t
produced made from grapes that were less
than fu lly ripe.
This has changed dramatically, however, as
the domestic market for the most basic,
thinnest Vinho Verde has shrivelled and a new
ge neration of vine-growers and winemakers
1s fa vouring qual ity over quantity. The Minho
1s Portugal's wettest region, and well­
watered vines, unless d1sc1plined, tend to
sprout leaves rather than ripen fr uit. But
these days vines are trained on trellises
designed to max1m1ze ri peness rather than
being encouraged to climb unfettered up
gran ite posts - the dominant stone here -
and even trees. Some of the world 's most
beautiful vineyards are here; rainier versions
ofthe fa mous Tuscan cultura prom1scua.
More amb1t1ous fa rmers are planti ng their
most fe rtile sites, often those by streams,
with other crops, while winemakers do what
they can to preserve and enhance every
nuance of fr uit and aroma.
In the past. Vinho Verde was often only
9% to 10% alcohol. The more commercial
examples had to have their searing ac 1d1ty
d1sgu1sed by ad ded sweetness and spritz.
Today's wines, some of them even fu lly
sparkling, are in the main perfectly well
balanced and can occasionally reach natural
alcohol levels as high as 14% - quite a
transformation m a very short time
As Vmho Verde producers have become
more focused on export markets, wh ite
wines have become much more important
than the tart, deep- purpl e Vmho Verde once
drunk m great quantity local ly. The local
Vmhio grape dominates the production of
red Vmho Verde, the best of which can be
bracingly fruity, but it 1s increasingly
channelled into the regi on's mcreasmgly
popular rose. Most white Vmho Verde, on the
other hand, is made from a blend ofgrapes,
typically including Loureiro (Loure1ra m
International boundary
t
Mumc1pahty boundary
• PO• Notable producer
c:=i Vineyards
Woods
50
0
Contour Interval 100 metres
I•
11'0.. TUQAL
209
northwest Spam), Arlnto (here known as
Pederni), Alvarinho, Traj adu ra (Tre1xadura),
Azal, and Avesso
The exception to this 1s the growing amount
of very fine V1nho Verde made exclusively
from the regi onal celebrity grape, Alvarmho,
which grows as well 1n the northernmost
subregion, Mon9lo and M•l�o, as 1t does
1n Rias Ba1xas just ac ross the River Mmho 1n
Spam as Albar11'10. Some 1s even ripe and
dense enough to take oak ageing seldom a
good idea. Hills shelter Mon�io and Melga�o
fr om the ocean and its infl uence, making this
subregion relatively dry and warm, although It
1s high enough fo r nights to be usefully cool.
Elevation and prox1m1ty to the Atlantic
are the ma1or influences on grape choices
and their results m the subregions of th1s
large area. The average rainfall m Mon�io and
Melga�o 1s around 47 in (1,200 mm) but 1s much
higher immediately south ofhere m the Lima
subregion, where 1t averages 55-63in
(1,400-1,600 mm). The Loureiro -only wines
made 1n Lima, especially m inland vineyards,
can also be extremely attractive, with their
emphatically floral perfume. In the interior of
Li ma, in Basto, Amarante, Baiio, and Paiva in
the extreme south, Avesso and Azal are
emergi ng as white wine grapes with sufficient
character to 1ust1fy varietal wines.
Throughout the region, citrussy Armto
1s becoming an increasingly popular varietal
wi ne, too
MONCAO AND MELGACO
The locator map below left and the country map
opposite show just how small a proportion of
the Vinho Verde zone 1s mapped below. But the
Monc;
;
io and Melgac;
;
o subregion prod uces a high
proportion of the finest wines in this rapidly
improving region .
' 156,250
..�o
o
t-
1
____,_.
i
__..
..,.
_._
1
__,,__,f l<m
-
1
5
,,.
..
...
•
•
c
0
D
.-
E
T
'
o

•
I
•
c
c
D'
0
T
210
PORTUGAL
Douro Va lley
to cater for them. And these phenomena
have been steadily moving upstream
Of all the places where people have
The Douro Valley, the home of port, Is the
world's most spectacular wine-growing
region, and It has embraced a new vocation•
Te rrolr Mainly fr iable, we ll-drained schists,
much of it yellow and oft:en in vertical or
near-vertical strata that can be penetrated
by the roots. Some granite outcrops.
Very little organic matter. Elevations and
aspects vary considerably. The north bank
sees more sunlight than the south.
Climate Varied and harsh. Cold, wet
winters and extremely hot, dry summers,
with a little ocean influence in the far west
and marked diurnal temperature variation
towards the east.
Grapes R: Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz
(Tempran illo), To uriga Nacional, Tinta
Barroca, Sousio; W: Siria (Roupe1ro,
C6dega), Rabigato, Malvasia Fina (Boal)
About half of all the wine now prod uced by
this extraord inary val ley 1s the unfortified
wine labelled Douro DOC (or the more
fl exible Duriense Vinho Regional), which we
Fait lo
,,
call table wine here to distinguish 1t from the
valley's most fa mous gift to wine d rinkers.
Thanks to an infl ux of World Bank and then
EU fu nds, the quality of hfe and wages have
improved notably in the Douro, dramatically
increasi ng prod uction costs. These were
already relatively high;thanks to the low
yields that are the 1nev1table res ult of bone­
dry summers, and the terrain . The average
slope of the region's 106,000 acres (43,000ha)
of vineyards, divided into 140,000 separate
plots, 1s 30° and some are as steep as 60°.
Most are difficult to access.
A question of survival
Making the sort of cheap port once sold
in such quantity makes little sense. The
economic climate ofthe Douro, where
ind1v1dual far mers, many of them smallholders,
are granted the right to prod uce a set amount
of port each year, is more fragile than ever.
It is hoped that higher prices - both for port
and for the table wine subs1d1zed by the grape
prices guaranteed for port prod uction - and
tou rism will be part of the answer. Oporto
1s awash with tourists, plus the hotels,
restaurants, and port-based v1s1tor centres
The Douro runs east- west, but the
narrow, hea vily planted valley of the
Pinhdo tributary runs north-south,
offering interesting exposures and
mcreasmgly useful shade.
planted vineyards, the Douro Valley 1s the
most improbable. To begi n with, there WQ
hardly any soil: only vertigi nous sl opes of
schist, flaki ng, unstable, and baked in a 1oo-F
(38°C) summer sun. It was a land of utter
desolation and the locals were careful to
settle only well above the worst ofthe heat.
The rai lway, begun in the 1870s, transfortn.-d
communicat ions and attracted people
down to the river, although new EU-funded
21st-century roads are once more
encouragi ng port shippers to build wineries
and lodges high enough to benefit fr om them
The vine, however, 1s one of the few plants
not quite deterred by these conditions
The harsh chmate, ranging fro m Atlant1c­
influenced in the west and increasingly
continental away from the coast, suits 1t.
What was needed was simply the engineering
feat of building walls along the mountainsides
thousands ofthem, hke contour lines, to hold
Woods
The river-hugging small
Dlstn�t boundary
xx; Contour interval 100
ra1fwa,y has changed
ttre
Parish boundary
little fr om when It was
[fil'l Area ..,.pped at Iara"'
Inaugurated in 1887
QTA DAl'OZ Quinta
Sc.IlleOPP'l8I'showr
Vineyard•
..
..
Weather stat1Cn 'W',
•I•
,.

up the patc hes of ground (one could hard ly
call it soil) where vines could be planted
often only wtth the help of explosive charges
Explosions used to be a common sight and
sound echoing along the valley. Once the
ground was stabilized and rainwater no
longer ran straight off an enterprise
undertaken from the 18th century - vines
established themselves as the only viable
crop along most of the Douro.
Long after phylloxera had laid waste to the
region's vi neyards, from the 1970s onwards
many of the terraced vi neyards, with their
vital sto ne walls, were redesigned and
replanted with mechanizat ion in mind
The great advantage of wider terraces
(patamares) supported by banks of schist
rather than wal ls 1s that they are wide
enough for specially adapted small tractors.
The ir disadvantage 1s the red uction tn vine
density, and for this reason, but mostly
because of erosion of that scarcest of
com mod 1t1es, soil, narrow single- row
terraces are bac k m fas hion. Wherever the
gradient and topography allow, growers
are now increasingly planting vine rows up,
rather than ac ross, the slope, which
encourages denser planti ng,
more even
Oespite official
boundaries, locals
regard the Va le1ra
gorga (da mmed in
1976 and where port
pioneer Ba.ron
Forrester drowned In
1881), as the fr ontlar
betwaan the Cima
Cof'g{) and much
more continental
Douro Superior.
,,
ripening, and also allows mechanization -
provided the slope IS less than 3Q•
Many of the original terraces dating from
the 17th century survive 1n the mountains
above Regua, tn the original port wine zone,
first delimited in 1756, which then extended
only as far as the Tua tributary on this page.
Today, this area of the Cima Corgo re mains
the heartland of port prod uction, with the
greatest concentration of the finest
vineyards, but improved communications
and the search for less demanding, flatter
land has led fu rther and fu rther upstream.
Flowing west, spreadln1 east
The Douro reaches Portugal fr om Spain tn a
wilderness that has been accessible by road
only since the late 1980s, when EU fu nds
started to flood into Portugal. The river has
carved a titanic canyon through the layered
rock uplands: the so-called Upper Douro, or
Douro Superior 1s the driest, least developed
part of the Douro (see the regional map
below). It can, despite its extremely
continental chmate, prod uce some very fine
grapes, as witness the ports ofQuinta do
Vesuv10 and the iconic table wine pioneer,
Barca Velha. This easternmost part of the
val ley has seen a fr enzy of planting tn the last
DOURO VALLEY • ftO .. TUGAL
211
decade, especially in the cooler, elevated
reaches of the Douro river's lef't ban k
between the River C6a and the Spantsh
border (see the detailed map overleaf). With
ready access to 1rrlpt1on water from the
river and afternoon shade, the benefits are
obviou s. Its steep, sch ist-strewn slopes are
rem iniscent of the Cima Corgo but harder to
work than the rest of the Douro Superior's
relatively ro lhng landscape.
To the west, the 4,640t't (1,415m) Serra do
Marao stops the Atlantic ram clouds of
summer from refres hing the schists of the
DOURO: Pl HAO
Lat itude I Elevation ofWS
41.11° / 394 ft (120m)
.,
,
Average growing sea on temperature at W
68°F (20°C)
Average ann ual rainfall at WS
25.3 1 n (642mm)
J !arve t month rainfall at W
September: 1 .5in (37 mm)
Principal v1ticultural hazards
Rain during fr uit set, drought, erosion
BAIXO AND CIMA CORGO
Vila Nova de Gaia, where
so much port is aged in
the shippers' lodges, is
given honorary status
as part ofthe delimited
Douro zone.
The contour lines indicate just how varied are the aspects, exposures,
elevations, and influences (river, mid-slope, or plateau) of the Douro's
sc h1st-dom1 nated vi neyards. The Cima Corgo, much hotter and drier than
the Ba1xo (Lower) Corgo, is where most of the best port is grown .
212
1122,SO
O
1 1,80
0
,00
0
KmO
25
SOKm
1-
-
--.-- ..
..
.
..
..
..
--�
Mor.0
I0
20
30Mdo
o
Km
y
f
Km
Mo'-
0
!-
---r---- .-- --
.-
-
--�l Mdo
o
,.
•I•
0
-,
!.F

•
•
•
<
c
212
PORTUGAL · DOURO VA LLEY
heart of port country, Cima Corgo, mapped
in detail on pp.210-11. Average annual rainfall
varies enormously, fro m 20 1n (500mm) in
Douro Superior to 26 in (650 mm) in Cima
Corgo and 35in (900 mm) in the heav ily
planted Ba1xo Corgo. The wettest, coolest
climate hes downstream of the Corgo
tributary and off the main map to the west,
the area where the bas ic, low-price ports are
(or were) made by co-ops
The Ba1xo Corgo 1s reckoned to be too damp
for top qual ity. To make great port the vines
have to be forced to insinuate their roots as
far down into the schist as possible in their
search for water, up to 26ft (S m) deep as at
Quinta do Ve suvio in the east of the section
mapped on p.211 (and below). Yields in this
dry climate are some of the world's lowest.
The vineyards that are conventionally
recognized as the best of all for port are
those around and above the railway town of
Pinhao, including the val leys of the Tedo,
DOURO SUPERIOR
°
For a long time, the Douro Superior
was regarded as the back of beyond,
but Portugal's road network has
improved immeasurably recently.
Now producers here are able to
take advantage of this. The climate
up here by the Spanish border 1s
even more extreme than in the
Cima Corgo.
D
'
!
QT
H
\
II
1
Guarcio J ,
ti
Tavora, Torto, Plnhio, Tua, Roncio, and
Gontelho tributaries. This is the heartland of
port prod uction, where virtually all the leading
shippers have their main quintas, or wine
fa rms where grapes are grown and v1mfted.
Because orientations and elevations vary
so dramatically, the character of wine
prod uced even in neighbouring vineyards can
be quite different. In the Tedo Valley, for
instance, wine tends to be tannic, while that
made iust across the river around Quinta do
Crasto, fa mous for its Douro table wine, 1s
relatively light and fruity. The mild climate of
the Torto tributary makes 1t good table wine
country, maturation 1s slower and sugar
levels tend to be lower than in the main
Douro Valley. Higher vineyards, wherever
they are, tend to ripen later and prod uce
lighter wines, making them better for white
table wine production, while those that face
south and/or west attract the most sunlight
and produce the strongest musts.
Classifying vineyards and vines
Each port vineyard Is c lassrfled , from A down
to F, accord ing to its natural advantages
- elevation, location, yield, soil, inchna:ttOrt,
or1entat1on - and the age, density, tratn1ne
and varieties of vine grown on 1t. The higher
the classification, the more money wil
l
be
paid fo r the grapes in the highly regulated
market that governs relations between
grape-growers and port producers (who aft
increasingly grape-growers, too).
Until pioneering work 1n the 1970s by Jose
Ramos Pinto Rosas and Joao Nicolau de
Almeida, little was known about the vines the
grew in the Douro, typically a tangled jumb,.,.
different bushvmes. They 1dent1fted To uriga
Nac1onal, To uriga Franca, Tmta Roriz (Spain'S­
Te mpramllo), Tinto Cao, and Tinta Barroca �
those varieties that most regularly made the­
best port. These constitute the maior1ty of
the Douro's now much more disciplined
vineyards, but Sousao 1s increasingly valued
l 1,80
0
,00
0
lnternabonal boundary
District boundary
Km
o
.,_
,
--�
1
1
0
_?,5
.__
20
,
_
__
,
,,
,.
MolaO
30Maoi
QTADOMl!O
O
Quinta
-� 1-
•I•
Vineyards
t
Woods
Contour interval 100 metres
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
The Douro's incre dibly steep
vineyards mean It Is the last
major wine region that Is
entirely picked by hand - so fa r.
I•

fo r its high ac 1d1ty, and ot her trad1t1onal
var1et1es such as Malvas1a Preta, Bastardo,
Cornifesto, and Ahcante Bouschet are being
rehabilitated, as is the trad1t1onal field blend,
whose benefit 1s insurance agai nst poor
weather during flowering.
To make white port - the port trade's
aperrtif of choice - V1osinho, Gouve10,
Malvas1a, and Rab1gato are some of the best
pale-skinned grapes that yearly do battle
wrth the Douro's baking- hot summers and
hezing-cold winters. More and more of
these varieties, as well as Codega de Larinho
and Moscatel, are also being used for
tncreasingly convincing wh ite table wines
Dtrk N1epoort's pioneering Redoma set
the standard
Vintage time anywhere 1s the climax of
the year, but picking grapes In the Douro,
perhaps because of the hardship of life
there, can be almost D1onys1ac, though
satyrs and maenads will be disappointed
by the grad ual disappearance oftreading
to pipes and drums, purple-thighed in the
mu st The nocturnal ritual has been
systematically replaced by prosaic,
computeri zed alternatives In most qulntas
Quintas are typically ram bling white houses,
vine-arboured, t1ie- floored , and cool in a
world of dust and glare. Most of the fa mous
port quintas are shown on the maps on
these pages, names that have become much
more fam iliar since the late 1980s with the
rise in single-quinta ports. Quinta do Noval,
above Pinhao (renovated by AXA), has been
world-famous for years, but there are now
scores more "single-quinta ports", the
products of a single estate 1n a single year,
many made in vintages not quite fine enough
to be generally declared Tay lor, fo r instance,
sells the wine produced on its Quinta de
Varge llas in lesser vi ntages; Graham's does
the same with Quinta dos Malvedos
From vine to wine
The main source of grapes and wine for port,
however, 1s sti ll a multitude of small fa rmers,
even 1f more and more of them are being
tempted to sell what they make under the
name ofthe1r own quintas
This 1s particularly true for the table wines
- most red, increasingly white, and some
pink, all labelled Douro DOC - that have
been emergi ng from this spectacular val ley
')OLJRO V"- L Y Pl'O.. TUQAL
213
Graham's Stone Te rraces vineyard, source ofa
single - vineyard vintage port in the best years,
was so named as a tribute to those who built
the original stone walls at Quinta dos Malvedos
in the late 18th century.
since international investment arrived .
Wlnemaking niceties such as temperature
control have revolutionized the practices
of the increasing number of Portuguese­
trai ned oenolog1sts. Douro table wines used
to be an afte rthought, made from grapes
left over from making port, but light wines
have become so important that producers
have been planting, or selecting, vineyards
specifically for table wines. High and
north-fac ing sites are especial ly suitable.
These wines vary enormously in style
ac cord i ng to the provenance ofthe grapes
and the intentions of the winemakers - from
the almost burgund1an Charme of N1epoort
through the soph1st1cated intensity of
Pintas to the sc histous solidity of Quinta da
Ga1vosa, but there 1s a real air of exc itement
in the Douro that this extraord inary terrain
can now express itself in two such different
types of wine.

The Po rt Lodges
At first glance, Vila NoW!. ff Qalm,, vnth its port
lodges and traditional pflr't.-•
b/r>plng
boats,
looks unchanged, but see taprif1bt. The
Ye atman hotel, opened In :1'<'10 by the owners
of Ta ylor's, signalled Oporl;o'S trtuwformation
into a luxury destinatlcn.
computer-control led plungrng ofthe cap, but
the small proportion ofwme potentially
destined for vintage port may either, in a few
trad1t1onal ist houses such as Taylor's or
Quinta do Noval, be treated to foot-treading
or the modern equivalent - computer­
controlled "robotic lag ares" designed to
simulate the action ofthe human foot Douro
living 1s not as hard as 1t was.
The grapes for port may be grown in the
wilderness of the Douro Valley, but about
two-thirds of the wine is still aged In the
huddles of shippers' lodges in Vila Nova de
Gala, across the river from the recently
revitalized city of Oporto. Before it can
be shipped downstream, however - in the
old days by Viking-style boat and nowadays
by rumbling road tanker - those grapes
must be transformed into the uniquely
strong, sweet wine that 1s port . No other
wine can use the name
Port 1s made by running off partially
fe rmented red wine, while it still contains at
least half its grape sugar, into a tank or barrel
a quarter fu ll of (oft:en chilled) spirit - good­
quality grape sp1r1t these days, not always in
the past. The spirit stops the fe rmentation so
that the resulting mixture is both strong and
sweet But the wme also needs the
pigmentation ofthe grape skins to colour it,
and their tannin to preserve it. In normal wines
these are extracted during fe rmentation, but
since with port the fe rmentation 1s unnaturally
short, pigments and tannin have to be
extracted thoroughly and at speed. This used
to mean late-night treading in stone troughs
or lagares Today, 1t is mainly achieved by
Port rs traditionally shipped in the spring to
Vila Nova de Gara, before the sweltering
summer can imbue the young wine with a
character known as "Douro bake" But this rs
also changing. As Gaia's narrow streets
become increasingly clogged by traffic, and
electricity for air cond1t1oning has become
much more reliable up the Douro, more and
more port 1s being kept and matured where
rt is made.
The city ofOporto and Vila Nova de Gara
across the river were once rich in English
influence, with the port trade dominated by
English and Anglo-Portuguese fam ilies
Oporto's handsome Georgian Factory House
has been the weekly meeting place for British
port shippers for 200 years. But with the
increase in importance of Douro DOC table
wines has come an increase in Portuguese
infl uence in the wine business.
STYLES OF PORT
Across theriver, th e port lodge , with th 1r du�ty slacks ofancient, bl acke n ed
barrels, have much in common with the sherry bod ega . Superior lawn and
Col he1 ta port i trad1l1onally m atu red in small barrels ca l l ed pipes containing
550 600 litres (a pip as a notional unit ofcommercial measurement is 534
litres) for anything from two to 50 yea r . Vmtage and LBV ports are aged in
larger casks The influence ofthe nearbyAtlantic isparticularly treasured for U1i
style of rort Perhaps in three yea r outof JO, conditions are near perfect for
port making. The best wme ofthese year5 need no bl!!nd mg; nothing can
imrrove it ex cpl tune. It is bottled at two years, like red Bordeaux, and is named
�imply w1th its 5h1pper's munc and Lhe year. This 1 vint uge port, made in tiny
but m uch-heralded quan tities. Eventually, perhaps after 20,30,40 or more year
m botlie, it will have a fa tness a nd fragra nce, ri ch ne ss and delicacy that are
incomparable although so drnmallcally has the standard ofvlne - grow i n g and
wmcmakmg in Lhe Douro risen m recent decades that 11 is now po sible, though
not advi Gable, lo enJOY eve n vmtage port willnn four or five y ars
Mo•l other p01 l, apart from lhe si ngle- qui nta win s desci ibcd on p 213, from
near vintage olandard to ml'I l y modcrntc, go •s t hro u gh a blending pro ess to
!.'merge as a h randt•d wm of a given character. This w� nc, aged in wood, malures
rn a diffl rt'nl w<1y, more rapidI , to �omething much m e llowe r. A very old wood
port 1s wmparat1\l'ly p<ll<' ("lawny" 1� the term)hut particularly'omooth. The
be t <Jl(l d tawmcG, usu<1lly lubellcd 10, 20, and o�c ao1011Jlly 30 and owr 40 yea rs,
tun rn't a much . 1 � vint ugt> port.,; many Jll'Opl e prefer their oak mellowed
gc ntlcnl'" to lht• full, fat Ji t>rme.,, whkh vmt,1ge port wn r(• t a1n for d e cndcs.
Chili<d tJw nv t'o thr �t.md<1rd drink oJ P<>rt 'hippt•1 .,
l'ort l,1bl"ll! d olheitu (1'01 tugutst for " h , i rw'> t ") <1rt wood aged po rts from a
111�!1 ) c .1r j!!'d Im Jt i<J I st•\ 1 n>cJrs 111 cash, c�prc.,.,J\l t,iw. 111L ' wluch nrny b('
drunk at any poi nt after the bottling date, which hould appe ar on the label. The
iconoclastic Dirk 1epoort p e r ists with the extremely rare Garrafeira tyle of
port, whereby wines start off like Colheitas but are taken out of wood at between
three and ix years o l d and kept for mru1y a year in large glass demijohn ,
resu lting in particularly elcgr u1t wine.
Run of- U1e - mill "wood" port labelled simply ruby are not kept for near! o
long, nor wo uld uch age reve al an great qualities in them. Low- pri ewi nes
labelled tawny with no indication ofage are usually a blend of emaciated oung
ruby ports. WhHe port is made in exa tly the ame way but from wh it grape<.
(and ;,ome ofthe best is now sold with a specific age, or even as a Colh 1ta) Rn�
- or "pink" p ort emerged at the end of the last century but cu rrentI occupie.,
o n ly a very small n i ch e . A noticeable notch above U1cse ha�ic port;, arc Lhm.
designated reserve, yo ung rubies wit h some real guts to them and rt•<, peelabk•
tawnies bottled at undt•r 10 years old.
As vint age port is bott led very you ng , nd unfiltered, the ;,cd1mcnl form� ,1 "' cru;, t "
on the side of th bottle. port sold ns a crusted or crustrng port 1 n blend of
differe nt year' bottled early enough to be �urc of throwi ng a 1,ed1menl 10 bottle
Like vintage port, itdemands a deca nter
The more common comprom ise between vwtage and wood port I!> the cxtrrmel}
varied l ate-bott led vintage (LBV) c.it gory port kc>pt 111 vat for four lo 1�
years, and bottlc>d one<> it has rid it5clfofi.ts cru<,l \ccckn1 t �d nd drniwd u1 t lni.
W•ly, 1t 1s tl1 modern ma n 's vintage port Mo�t commt· ru nl LJ3Vo lui\L nolhiiw
like the character ofv11
1
lagt• port, but both \\ant and !'im1th Woodhothc prudlll l
a w1 1ous l.J.lV, madcj u'il l1k vlllt<lge port hut bottled unfiltl'n·d ,1tlt•1 four r.1th< r
than two } CnP,. They l oo dunnnd de�an tmg

1'0,.TUQA L
211
Lisboa and Peninsula de SetUbal
Usboa, the hlnterland ofthe capltal, once
called Estremadura or slmply Oest• ("the
west"), Is one of PortusaJ'• most productive
wine regions, with most producers
preferring to sell their wines as Vlnho
Re1lonat Lisboa rather than the To rres
Vedras, Arruda, and Alenquer DOCs.
Its potential was not obvious while
co -operatives made its wine, and quantity,
not quality, was the 1mperat1ve. Seara Nova,
Caladoc, and Marselan vines were grown,
chiefly for brandy. In less successful table
wines their high ac idity and unripe tannins
were often deliberately masked by residual
sugar. But Lisboa 1s a large, hilly, and
therefore varied region. Since the 1990s,
estates as amb1t1ous as Quinta do Monte
d'Oiro and Quinta de Chocapal ha have shown
that the higher-quality red wine grapes Syrah
and To uriga Nac1onal can thrive in more
sheltered locations (notably in Alenquer)
given a growi ng season prolonged by
prox imity to the Atlantic. A recent
development 1s the reincarnation of
the widely planted variety Castelao m
a lighter, fresher style that might be
described as "warm-climate Pinot No1r."
L1sboa's more obvious strength -
white wines - 1s now being explored to
great effect, notably in vineyards that
benefit fr om cooling coastal breezes and
Jurassic limestone soils. Var1et1es grown with
some success include the local Arinto, Fernao
Pires, and even the once-despised Vital.
The urban sprawl along the coast has
reduced the historic vineyards of Colares
and Carcavelos to 1ust 166 and 47 ac res
007 and 19ha) respectively, but there is a
renewed pride in these ancient, uniquely
maritime-influenced wi nes. The fiercely
tannic Colares is trad 1t1onally made from
ungrafted vines planted directly in coastal
sand: Ramisco for reds and Malvas1a de
Colares for whites For the moment the
rrnld, gently hquorous Carcavelos, a fortified
blend of Arinto, Galego Dourado, and
Ftatmho, seems to have been rescued from
extinction by fresh interest from a handful
of new players. Well inland and north of
the city, Bucelas soldiers on with its
l'M:rity, fresh Arinto.
The map of Portugal on p.208 shows the fu ll
extent of both the Lisboa and Peninsula de
Setubal VRs. Much more important today
than the thre
e
historic DOCs described above
are the vineyards across the Tagus on the
Setubal Peninsula. Between the Tag us (Te1 0)
and Sado estuaries, southeast of Lisbon,
there are clay-limestone hills round Aze1tao,
whose slopes are cooled by Atlantic winds, and
the much hotter, more fe rtile inland sandy
12
1
Along with Oporto,
Lisbon has
become a popular
tourist hub.
D1stnct boundary
• = Notable producer
ARRUDA DOP/DOC
Appellation boundanes are
d1st1ngu1shed by coloured lines
Y
Weather stabon (WS)
plain ofthe River Sado east of Palmela, where
one of Portugal's best co-operatives, that of
Santo Isidro de Pegoes, flourishes.
Setubal's mos� important prod ucers, Jose
Maria da Fo nseca and especially Bacal hoa
Vinhos, were pioneers t>f Portugal's new wave
of undemanding varietal wines. The local
Castelio seems well suited to the sandy soils
1ust east ofPal mela but is fa r fr om dominant
The region's traditional wine 1s Moscatel de
Setubal , a rich, pale-orange Muscat (tinged
pink 1f made from the rarer Moscatel Roxo),
which 1s lightly fortified and highly perfumed,
thanks to long maceration with sklns ofthe
headily aromatic Muscat ofAlexandria . Aged
1t can bedazzle; young it 1s JU St the JOb with
Portugal's custard tarts.
r-"(
Porto,.
I
1"1
<
U1boa
(
(
158
8
,00
0
KmO
10
20Km
1-
-
���..
..-
..
..
..
��..---'
Mo!.O
10M;lo
o
LISBOA: LISBON
'f'
Latitude / Elevation ofWS
38.72° / 253ft (77 m)
Average growing e ason temperature at W
68.7°F (20.4°C)
Ave rage annual rai nfall at W
30.Sin (774mm)
Harvest mo nth rainfall at W
September 1 .3in (32.9mm)
Principal vi ticultural hazards
Rain during fr uit set, autumn rain
Principal grape ancties
R : Caladoc, Castelii.o, Syrah, Aragones;
W : Fernio Pires
•
I
•
c
c
o
T
E
T
F
o

216
Bai rrad a and Di.o
Bairrada and Dao were once viewed as
decidedly uncompromising wines, but
modern versions, with their innate
fr eshness and attractive mineral hit, are
now among Portugal's most sought-after.
Bairrada 1s a dullish country d1str1ct
bisected by the highway that links Lisbon and
Oporto, extending over most ofthe area
between the granite hills of Dao and the
Atlantic coast . Its nearness to the Atlantic
makes its wi nes naturally fresh, and its
vi neyard s relatively damp, although its low
hills encom pass some extremely va ried
terro1rs. The best wines tend to come from
the clay limestone that gives body and
ty pical Portuguese bite to its red and
increasingly popular white wine.
The defining ingredient for reds 1s Sai rrada's
indigenous Saga grape, which, unusually for
Portugal, 1s not usually blended Its downside
is its high natural vigour, late ripening cyc le,
and the fact that ra in JUSt before harvest 1s
common. One ofSa1rrada's most passionate
ex ponents, Luis Pato, likens Saga to the
Nebb1olo of Piemonte in its uncompromisingly
heavy charge of ac ids and tannins some
traditional bottllngs may need 20 years'
cellaring His pioneering approac h -
encompass ing green harvesting, complete
destemming, and ageing in French oak - did
much to put Baga on the path to redemption.
Through earlier harvesting, gentle extraction,
and only partial destemming, more recently
establi shed producers such as his daughter
F1lipa Pato and Dirk N1epoort (who acq uired
Quinta de Sa1xo in 2012) are making prettier
wines from Saga, more reminiscent of
burgundy in their aroma, freshness, and tannin
structure, though those who have earlier
bottles may still be happy with their choice.
While the likes of Quinta das Sage1ras and
Sid6nia de Sousa may age their wines in
French oak and blend in other grapes to make
their reds more approachable, botthngs
labelled Garrafe1ra maintai n the trad1t1onal
brooding style, albeit with plenty of fr uit
concentration to counterbalance all that
tannin The 2003 rule change al lowing grapes
other than Baga into red Sa1rrada threatened
its trad itional mainstay, but the pulling out of
old Saga vines has been halted by the injection
of new blood and adoption of new, softening
techniques. Baga Friends, a group ofsingle­
minded producers, has helped restore
confidence in the grape and this extremely
traditional regi on. Eve n Campolargo, one of
Sa1rrada's great modernizers, 1s emphasizing
local grapes nowadays
White Ba1rrada 1s also on a roll The local
pal e - skinned speciality 81cal, Maria Gomes
(Fernio Pires), and Cerceal were once
restricted to the sandy soils deemed
unsuitable for red wine prod uction, b ut
today there 1s 1mpress1ve evidence of
JUSt how well they can perform on clay
limestone. T hese excitingly long-lived
The Serra da Estrela mountain range,
overlooking this Quinta do Aral vineyard, 1s
already fa mous for its gooey cheese, and looks
set to become so fo r its Odo, too.
wines can vary from austere and stony to
something with more body and texture.
Traditional - method sparkling wine, white
and now pink, has been a Ba1rrada speciality
since the late 19th century, but today is made
by growers as well as bigger merchants. A
recently revived type of fortified red, L1coroso
Baga, now has its own DOC.
A stylistic revolution
Unlike Bairrada, the Dlo DOC is thoroughly
Portuguese 1n terms of permitted grape
varieties. Until the 1990s, the name was
associated with aggressively tan nic, dull
red s, al most all vinifled by heavy-handed
co-operatives. But since then the number
of independent prod ucers, whether estatts
or small-scale negoc1ants, has increased
s1gniflcantly, and the result has been far
JU1c1er, fr iendlier, more elegant w ines. ThHe
range from well-priced offerings from such
big firms as Sogrape (Quinta dos Carvalhal•)
and Global Wines (Quinta de Cabr1z) to
some of Portugal's fi nest wines w ith a keen
sense of terro1r Alvaro Castro and, more
recently, Ant6nlo Madeira, are two talented
winemakers who seek out old vines on
promising sites and re present a new
ge neration not tied to a single quinta
Named after the river that ru ns thro.igh t
- and with 1ts capital, V1seu, being one of
Portugal's prett iest tow ns Dlo 11

•
effe ctively a granite plateau, where bare
rocks show through the sandy soil, often
strewn with boulders. There 1s some schist
in the flatter south and west, which 1s less
obvious wi ne country. Vineyards are only a
subplot in the landscape, cropping up here
and there m clearings in the sweet- scented
pines and eucalypts, ideally at elevations of
1,300-1,640ft (400-500m), but some can
be found as high as 2,620ft (800 m). The
higher the vineyard, the more marked the
difference between day- and night-time
temperature s. The longer growing season
in the foothills of the Serra da Estre la (the
highest mountain range on Portugal's
mainland) results in some of Dao's most
accomplished reds and st ructured whites.
The Serra do Caram ulo shields the region
from the Atlantic and the Serra da Estrela
protects It in the southeast This means
that in winter Oio is cold and wet (1ts annual
rainfall av•r!l8ea u much as 43 i n/1,100mm);
1 n summer warm and dry - much drier than
Bairrada, although the wines of both
regions are characterized by real structure
and fresh ness.
District boundaiy
• LUI., mu Notable producer
llAIRRADA DOP/DOC
Area With vines
Appellation boundaries are
d1st1ngu1shed by coloured lines
BAIRRADA AND DAO • lt0.. TU8AL
217
158
8
,00
0
attention ofthree
of the Douro's top
win emakers for
their M. O.B. label.
{P rodos
Km �1---- ..
..
..
.
..
..
..
..
'
P
--..
..
..,
.-
..
..
..;i
'lfli<m
MM.O
i'
o
Molo
o
This 1s particularly notable in the wines
made by Douro winemakers who have come
to the region to make markedly different,
fr esher wines M 0 B 1s a joint project for
Jorge Moreira, Francisco Olazabal, and Jorge
Serod10 Borges on a single quinta in the
Serra da Estrela, where the ub1qu1tous Dirk
N1epoort has acq uired Quinta da Lomba.
As 1s usual m Portugal, a dizzy ing range of
grapes 1s grown m the region to produce
increasingly frwty reds - though sti ll with a
certai n grar nt1c substance - as well as firm,
fragrant wh ites
.
suitable fo r agemg. It is this
affi nity for the cellar, In whites as well as
red s, that character1tes Dao. They are wines
that can reward patie nce.
The finest md1vldual estates, such as (Luis
Louren�o's) Qwnta dos Roques/Quinta das
Maias, (Alvaro Castro's) Qumta da Pe llada/
Qumta de Saes, and Casa da Passarella,
have experimented with varietal s, but
trad1t1onal blends are st ill the mamstay, not
least because older, increasingly treasured
vineyards are planted with &jumble of
diffe rent varieties. The second most·
planted grape, To urlga Nac1onal, 1s possibly
at its best m Dao and 1s capable of long
age ing. Jaen (known as Mencia in Galicia,
and Dao's most-planted grape) supplies
fruit for earl ier-drmkmg reds. Tmta Roriz
(Tem pranillo), the third most popular
variety, can provide body Ful l-bodied but
high-acid white Encruzado (which 1s
res pondmg well to tech niques borrowed
from Burgundy) has al ready proved itself
to be one of Portugal's finest varietal white
wme grapes
The potential of th1s part of the world for
truly re markable table wines was always
clear, thanks to one eccentric, highly
idiosyncratic exam ple. Right on Barra1da's
eastern boundary, the Bussaco Palace Hotel,
an arc hitectural extravaganza orlgmally
designed as a "cathedral of wme" to
showcase the region, has selected and
matu red its own red and white Bu�aco wines
1n a wholly or1gmal way for generations. They
have recently been given a makeover, but
o ld -school exam ples look and taste like re lics
of another age, m the most fa scinating sense.
Vintages on the hotel wme list stretch back
to the 1940s.
'
T

218
PORTUGAL
Alentej o
The wide, sun-browned spaces in this,
Portugal's most extensive, If least historic,
wine region, are dotted with dark cork
oaks and silver olive trees, browsed bare
by sheep, but are only occasionally green
with vines.
Te rroir A wide variety of rich, loamy soils
are interspersed with granite and schist,
occasionally limestone. Vines and olives are
restricted to the least fe rtile soils; cereals
and pasture occupy the rest.
Climate Three thousand hours of sunshine
a year in a Mediterranean climate. Inland
summers can be challengi ngly hot and dry,
although the Atlantic coast is moderated
by maritime infl uence and the northeast
is more continental.
Grapes R: Aragones (Tempranillo),
Tr incade1ra, Alicante Bouschet, Syrah,
To uriga Nacional, Castelio; W : Antao Vaz,
Arinto, Roupeiro
Except for Portalegre in the north,
smallholdings are rare in the Alenteio.
Ranch- like estates, unknown in densely
populated northern Portugal, are the norm,
and more and more of them are capitalizing
on the possibilities offered by wine tourism
in an area whose north and south are so
easily reac hed from Lisbon and the Algarve,
respectively. Many of the Alenteio's large
estates have been passed down from
ge neration to generation, with tobacco as
a mai nstay, and have only recently been
making wine, while others are fu nded
by entrepreneurs from Lisbon keen to
capitalize on the region's easy road network,
plentiful ac commodation, established wine
routes, and the clear skies.
Even in midwinter, this is a land of sun and
open vistas . The visitor 1s aware that Spain
1s Just ove r the border; winemakers do
their shopping there. Rai nfall is low and
temperat ures so routinely high that picking
starts in the third week ofAugust .
In comparison with the tapestry of vines
that seems to smother northern Portugal,
1n the vast and diverse Alenteio region
60% of vineyards are concentrated in fo ur
main DOC subregions. Borba, Redondo,
Resuen1os, and Vldl1uelra All four were
h1stor1cally based on an Important
co-operat ive, none more important than
that of Reguengos (now known as CA RMIM),
which, In Monsaraz , prod uces a best-seller
within Portugal .
A larae proportion of the region's wine -
although much of 1t qual ifies for a DOC - is
sold as Vinho Regional Alentejano, often
var1etally labelled When Jose Roquette,
former CEO of one of Lisbon's rival football
teams, endowed his Reguengos estate,
Herdade do Esporao, with Australian
winemaker David Baverstoc k and an al most
Napa-like dream winery in the late 1980s,
he started a trend. In 1995, there were just
45 wine producers in the Alentejo; by 2015,
there were al most 300 of them, and more
than 1,800 grape-growers
Back to the old ways
One increasingly v1s1ble speciality of the
Alenteio is Tal ha wine, fe rmented and aged
In a large clay pot of the same name This
trad 1t1onal method was abandoned by the
co- ops that were so important in the
mid-20th century in fa vour of more
efficient large concrete fe rmentation
and storage vats But this small-batc h,
art1sanal way of storing wine continued to
be practised on a small, domestic scale
Once fe rmented and drained off the skins
and stems, the wine was sealed into the pot
under a layer of olive oil and eventually run
offfor drinking from a tap in the base Such
Win es fe rm ented and possibly aged in a talha,
such as these traditional giant clay pots at
Herdade Outeiros Altos, now have their own
DOC Vmho de Ta /ha, an Alente10 speciality
wines were not usually bottled, and the
longer they spent in the ta /ha, the more
ox1d 1zed they became.
Such ultra-trad itional fe rments can still be
found in local inns, but more soph1st1cated
versions of the technique are now practised
by many a leading winemaker, p rovid i ng a
real point of difference for the AlenteJO.
Esporao, Sio Miguel, Herdade do Roc1m,
and Joao Portugal Ramos, the consultant
winemaker who did so much to put Alentejo
on the map, all produce Talha wines.
The Vlnho de Tal ha DOC was officially
created in 2010 The grapes must be
destemmed, fe rmentation must take
place in impermeable pots or a ta/ha; the
wine must re main on the skins until Saint
Martin's Day, 11 November, and grapes
must be grown in one of the Alente1o's eight
DOC subregions Borba, Evora, Gran1 a­
Amareleja, M oura, Portale •re R rdondo
Reguengos. and V1d.gue1ra

The thirst-quenching whites that tourists
want in this arid region have tradlt1onally
been based on the tropical-fruited Antio
l/az, the floral white Roupe1ro, Arlnto for
hsh ness, and, increasingly, some Verdelho
end Alvarmho. AlenteJO whites have been
a.coming more serious, especially those
I.tom Portalegre (see below), but the Alenteio
It still pr1mar1ly red wine country. Aragones
l,t. mpran lll o) and the local speciality,
� incad e 1ra, have a long history in Alenteio,
hu the red -fleshed Ahcante Bouschet,
w '11ch seems to take on a certain
un,,ccu stomed nob1hty in the region's better
sit· Herdade do Mouchao and Dona Maria,
o h owned by descendants of the Anglo·
Po , uguese Reynolds fa mily, are its finest
exponents . To ur1ga Nac1onal, To ur1ga Franca,
Cabernet Sauv1gnon, Petit Verdot, and,
esp .ec 1ally, Syrah have been imported more
re cently with great success Monte da
avas q u eira is a particularly eloquent
exponent of Syrah, co-fermenting 1t with
rv1ognler and blending It With To ur1ga Fran ca.
Local variet ies, most notably Moreto, are
becom ing increasingly popul ar.
Orga nic viticulture, fac ilitated by the dry
summers, provides more evidence of
AlenteJo's progress. In another development,
Cortes de Cima of Vid1gueira has been
planting var1et1es that demand a cooler
climate such as Alvarinho, Chardonnay,
Sau111gnon Blanc, and even Pmot Noir near
VilaNova de M1lfontes, JUSt 2 miles (3km)
fro m thecoast (see map on p.208).
Nerthern outpost
The wine country and wine producers of
central AlenteJO may have been evolving
rapidly, but more recently so, too, 1s the
cooler, wetter subregion ofPortalegre to
the north. Here the land rises to 3,280ft
(1,000 m) of granrte and schist, and some
vineyards are as high as 2,460ft (750m).
Average rai nfall ts much higher than fu rther
south, around 23 6in (600 mm) a year, and
nights can be really quite cool. Thanks partly
to the preponderance of smallholdings, there
are some relatively old plantings here, with
ALENTEJO: EVO RA
Latitude / Elevation ofWS
38.57° / 1,014ft (309 m )
Ave rage grow111g sea on temperature at WS
ss.1 °F (20.1 •ci
AYc rage annual rai nfall at W
23.0in (585 mm)
Harvest month ra infall at WS
August: 0.3in (Bmm)
Principal >Jt1cultural hazard&
Drought, isolated spring frosts
Indigenous, as opposed to imported, vine
var1et1es from both northern and southern
Portugal . Some ofthem, notably at Tapada
do Chaves, are ancient field blend s. Harvest
here can be up to two weeks later than in
Reguengos and the wines distinctly more
savoury, without the sunny sweetness that
characterizes those fu rther south Winemaker
Ru1 Regu r nga played a considerable part rn the
development ofPortalegre in the first decade
of the 21st century. In 2017, the Sym ington
fa mily, important producers of port and
Douro table wines, bought Quinta da Fonte
Souto in the Serra de Sio Mamed e. The
following year Sogrape acq uired Quinta do
Centro Today, many prod ucers based
outside Portalegre buy grapes from its
vineyards to ad d fr eshness to their blend s.
The AlenteJO 1s anything but static.
The granite hil
l
s around
Portalegre m northern
Alente10 are wetter, estates
tend to be smaller, and m
general, vines older and
less international.
This fo rmerly sle epy
corner of Alentejo
combines wine, fa shion,
and tourism in
developments such as
wlnemakmg spa hotels
Malhadinha Nova and
Herdade dos Grous.
Castelo
Bronco
/
ALENTEJO • PO .. TUQAL
211
lnternet1onal boundary
District boundary
- Alente)o DOP/DOC
ALBNflJA
NO
IGP/Vlnho ReaJonal
B 0 R 8 A Alentejo subregion
• = Notable producer
Vineyards
Woods
� Contour interval 200 metres
'Y Weather station (WS)
Site of Te rrenus Vln ha de Serra,
Rut Regumga's top vineyard, and
the highest In Portalegre at
2,500ft (762m).
--
--.
.
�
(
so
11,00
0
,00
0
�
�
�
��
10
10Milo
o
1•
'
r

0
T
'
T
Madeira
The ancients knew these o1fshore relics of
a volcanic eruption as the Enchanted Isles.
They cluster 400 miles (640 km) off the
coast of Morocco, right in the path of sailing
ships crossing the At lantic, their modern
names Madeira, Porto Santo, Selvagens, and
the Desertas.
Madeira 1s the largest of the little
archipelago and one of the prettiest islands
in the world, as steep as an iceberg and as
green as a glade The story goes that when
the Portuguese landed on the island (in the
early 15th century, at Machico in the east)
they set fire to the dense woods that gave
the island its name (made1ra being
Portuguese fo r wood) The fire burned for
years, leaving the already fe rtile soil enriched
with the ashes of an entire forest
Certainly, it 1s fertile today. From the
water's edge to over halfway up the 6,000ft:
(1,800 m) peak it is stead ily terraced to make
room for patches of vine, sugar cane, corn,
beans, potatoes, bananas, and little flower
gardens. As in northern Portugal the vines
are grown in arbours, making room for yet
more cultivat ion beneath. The mystery to
the visitor 1s where the vineyards are. There
are no big ones to be seen Hundreds of miles
of levadas, litt le 1rr1gation canals, distribute
water to the rich variety of crops
Wine has been the principal product of the
Madeira Islands for cent uries. Porto Santo
was colonized at the same time; its low,
sandy terrain with a North African climate
may 1n1t1ally have looked more promising
than tal l, green, rainy M ad eira. But 1t was on
Madeira that the vine so rapidly and
auccessfully eatabllshed Itself that the island
was already growing Malvas1a vines and
export1n1 wine by the mid-15th century.
''
A typ ically Made1ran scene on the island's north
coast between Fa ial and Porto da Cruz: densely
populated, densely planted mountains,
1rrepress1blygreen thanks to constant showers,
and extremely fe rtile.
Grape sugars were concentrated in the sun,
and the fas hionably sweet wine that resulted
found a ready market - even at the court of
Franc;o1s I of France.
Settlement of the American colonies
meant increased traffic and trade, and
Madeira, with its port of Fu nchal, became
the victualling place for westbound ships .
Conditions here are very different from
those on Porto Santo; rain 1s rarely far off,
especially on the north coast, which 1s
unprotected from the winds offthe Atlantic
Malvas ia, Boal, Verdelho, and Serc1al, the
most important of the original vmifera vine
varieties introd uced to the island, often
struggled to ripen here. The marriage of
sugar with these ac id and astringent wines
was an obvious expedient
Warm lna the win•
The sweet-and-sour result was more than
ad equate as ballast on sailing ships, and an
effective anti-scurvy protection into the
bargain And 1t was this travelling as ballast
that made made1ra. A bucket or two of
brandy (or cane spirit) fortified 1t for its long
sea voyages . One crossing of the eq uator
would finish off any normal wine, but 1t was
found to mellow madeira wonderfully - and a
double equator crossing even more so.
Instead of long, hot sea voyages, madeira
today is warmed before It leaves the island.
The cheapest wines, the sort that are shipped
to French kitchens in such quantity, undergo
estufagem, whereby the wine 1s heated to
almost 122"F (50°C) in hot stores (estufCI$) for
at least three months. But most of thoH to be
sold at five or more years old gain madeira's
Ponto
do
Pargo
Mocie1ta -
characteristically complex combination of
warmth and refreshing tang by a much gentler
process called cante1ro, aft:er the racks on
which barrels were traditionally stacked.
These wines are slowly aged m barrel m the
island's balmy ambient temperat ures.
The very highest quality of made1ra, as of
port, has traditionally been the reserve wine
of a single vintage. Today, to be labelled
Frasqueira (vintage), a made1ra must be from
a single year, of a single grape variety, and
aged in cask for at least 20 years. In practice
the very finest wines may spend a century
undergoing the slowest of oxidations in the
barrel, and/or decanted into glass demijohns,
before being bottled as some ofthe wine
world's most notable, but still thrilling,
antiques. They are correspondingly
expensive. Increasingly popular commercially
are Colheita made1ras, made from the
produce of a single year and bottled after
spending at least five years in wood.
When oid1um struck the island's vineyards
in the 1850s and phylloxera In the 1870s,
a host of infe rior vine var1et1es invaded
the island's vineyards, then were steadily
re placed by the productive, disease ­
re sistant T1nta N egra. To da,y, 1t accounts for
about 90% of all grapes grown on the island,
the so-called "di rect producers" many of
them hybrids, having been outlawed
The practice until Portugal joined the EU
in 1986 was to cite the classic vine var1et1es
of made1ra (in descending order of r1chneo;s
Malvas1a, Boal , Ve rdelho and Serc1al) on

labels whether the wine was really made
fr om them or (much more likely) n ot. Today,
any made1ra may be labelled with the name
ofa variety that constitutes at least 85% of
the wi ne. But most made1ra 1s labelled either
with a brand name, such as Blandy's Duke of
Clarence, or according to the average age
of the blend (5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, and over
50 years). Most commercial madeira is
between two and three years old as bottling
1s forbidden before the end of October in the
second year after the harvest. The practice
today 1s to use 50cl, rather than the
trad1t1onal 75cl bottles.
Sweetness levels
The trad 1t1onal grape var1et1es were
associated with a particular level of
sweetness. The sweetest of the four, and
the earliest maturing, was once called
Malmsey, a corruption of Malvasia, of which
several different varieties still grow to a
limited extent on the island. Malvas1a Branca
deSao Jorge 1s the one associated with
the sweetest trad1t1onal style of made1ra:
dark-brown wine, very fragrant and rich,
soft-textured an d almost fatty, but with
the sharptang that al l madelras h ave. Bual
made1ra, named fo r Boal, a synonym of a
distinct variety called Malvas1a Fina, is l ighter
12
13
Pon fa
da Cruz
•
BARBEITO
"'°
..
.
and slightly less sweet than Malmsey - but
still definitely a dessert wine. A smoky note
steals in to modify its richness. Verdelho (the
most- planted white wine grape on the island
and today also found in the Azores and
Australia) 1s made less sweet and softer than
Bual The fa int honey and distinct smoke of
its flavour make 1t good before or after
m eal s. The tiny plantings of the Sercial vine
(Esgana Cao on the mainland), which makes
the driest, most revitalizing wine of Madeira,
are in the island's highest vineyards and are
harvested late. Serc1al wine, the slowest­
developing of them all, 1s light, fragrant,
distinctly sharp - unpleasantly astringent
you ng, in fact - but marvellously appetizing
old . It 1s more substantial than a fino sherry,
but sti ll a perfect aperitif. A small but
noticeable revival of the historic Te rrantez
and Bastardo vine varieties 1s also underway.
(For the increasingly popular table wines
grown on either Madeira or Porto Santo for
either the DOC Made1rense or IGP Ta rras
Made1renses, Ti nta Negra 1s of course the
most common fo r reds, and Ve rdelho for
some much more convincing whites. )
Today, made1ras are much more likely to be
labelled with one ofthe approved styles
(Extra Dry, Dry, Medium Dry, Medium Sweet
or Medium Rich, and Sweet or Rich), either
114
MADEI RA • 11'0 .. TUQAL
221
Amswherevinesare
Historical dlltrlbutlon of vines
malnly planted today
- Mllvasl• (MalmMy)
Notable producer
- s.rc111
Woods
- Verdelho
Contour Interval I 00 metres
- lkNllandTerr1ntez
Weather station (WS)
- Tinta Negri
MADEIRA'S VINES
The green hnes enclose those parts
of this densely planted island where
v1t1culture 1s most common, but vmes
are almost always interspersed with
other crops. The varietally shaded
areas refer strictly to the past .
determined, as in port production, by when
the fe rmentation 1s halted by the ad d1t1on
of grape sp1r1t (96% alcohol as opposed to
77% for port) or as the result of sweetening
after fe rmentation.
In bottle, madeira develops at a snail's pace.
The older 1t is, the better it 1s - and an
opened bottle of virtually any good madeira
can retain its freshness for months, even
years. Madeira has the strongest of claims to
be the world's longest-living wine.
.,,
MADEIRA: F NC HAL
Latitude / Elevation ofW
32.63"C / 190n (5B ml
Average gro\ving eason temperature nt W
69.B"F (21.0 'C)
A erage ann ual rainfall at W
24.7 i n (627mm)
Harvest month rainfall at WS
Septe mber: 0.1 1n (2mm)
Principal 1ticultural hazarih
Fungal diseases
Principal !(rape varieties
R: Tinta Nograj W: Verdelho, Malvasia Fi na1
Sercial, Malvasia Branca de Siio Jorge
I•
�·
llheu
de Fora
D
T
E
T

Germany
German wine ha• rediscovered Itself after
a dire period In the late 20th century.
Climate chanp has been decidedly on its
t.ide; so have new drinkers and their
tattes. WhltH keep their fr eshness,
vibrancy, and perfume, but In many cues
•ubstltute heft for sweetness, while reds
tiave soared In quality.
Te rroir A h uge range of soils. Slate
dominates the Mosel Valley's best sites. Loess
and basalt are found in southern Germany.
Climate Increasingly cool towards the
rtorth, in c reasi ngly continental towards the
east, but summers can now be quite hot.
Grapes W: Riesling, M uller-Thurgau ,
G rau burgunder (Pinot Gris), Silvane r,
Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc);
R: Spatburgu nder (Pinot Noir), Dornfelder,
Po rtugieser
- Saale-Unstrut
Sachsen
Mrt
te
lrhem
Ahr
-
Mosel
- Rheingau
Nahe
- Rhemhes
sen
-
Hes
s
lSChe Berpt
ta
sse
Franken
Germany's determined n ew generation of
growers, often influenced by peers in very
distant countries, are clearly inspired by the
potential of historically glorious, and excitingly
distinct, vineyard sites
Many of Germany's best vineyards lie al most
as far north as grapes can be persuaded to
ripen. Some of the best are on land unfit for
normal ag riculture; 1fthere were no vines
there would be forest and bare mountai n .
All in all, their chances of yield mg the world's
best white wi ne look shm. And yet they can,
and stamp 1t with a racy elegance that no
one, anywhere, can 1m1tate
The secret behind these uniquely
1nv1gorat1ng wines is of course Riesling, a
grape that thrives under the challenging
conditions of a cool chmate in which grapes
only iust ripen, someti mes not until late
October or even November Yet this knife
edge can result in an irres1st1ble combination
of st1 mulat1ng nerviness and aromatic
essence that no other white wine grape can
deliver In the put, It was mainly the delicate
balance between refreshing ac 1d1ty and
transparent fr uitiness that excited
connoisseurs of German wine, but climate
change has added to what German Riesling
can ac hieve dry, geographically expressive
wines with magnificent fr uit, brilliant
transparency, and great vitality which need
no oak to attract atte ntion An increasing
number ofthem rely on ambient yeast to
augment the thumbprint of their provenance.
The rise of trocken
Almost two -thirds of all German wine, not
iust Riesling, 1s now made trocken (dry)
or halbtrocken and fe mherb (medium dry),
although fruity Kabmetts, racy sweet
Spatlesen, richer Auslesen, and of course
the unashamedly sweet Beerenauslesen,
Eiswem, and Troc kenbeerenauslesen are
arguably more quintessentially German. The
trocken wines of today have httle m common
with the sometimes pai nfully tart, anaemic
re nd1t1ons ofthe early 1980s. Most ofthem
are harvested at ripeness degrees equivalent
to Spatlese level, even though nowadays more
heed 1s paid to the ripeness ofthe whole
CZECHIA
International boundary
Landesgrenze (state boundary)
o
l.andeshauptstadt (state capital)
The wm es ofHessische
Bergstrasse, Germany's
smallest wine region,
are only rarely exported.
Bold, dry Rieslings are
supplemented by
Grauburgunder and
Spatburgunder
-
Pfalz
SCHWEIZ
Baden
-
WOrt
tem
befl
l
i'
1 3,60
0
,00
0
llmO
40
10
120
160Km
..---._,...
..
..
..
--.
..
.,.
..
.
..
..
.
__,
,.
..
._
__,..
..,.
.
__,__,�
Ml
leo
0
20
olO
60
10
100Ml
lo
o
••
223
r
0
D
'
E
T
r
'G

grape, rather than JUSt to prec ise sugar
read ings. Members of the premium wine­
growers assoc 1at1on VDP (Verband Deutscher
Prad1 katswe 1nguter) 1dent1fy dry wines
from their finest vineyards on the label
as a Grosses Gewachs, as do prod ucers
belonging to the Bernkasteler Ring. The
original legal designation of Spatlese
trocken may still be used by vintners who
are not connected with either organ ization.
In particularly warm growing seasons
(which are becom ing more common)
some S1lvaners, Weissburgunders, and
Grauburgunders can reach alcohol levels
as high as 14%, which risks making them
unbalanced and oi ly. Late-ripening Riesling
rarely suffers this fate .
While German wine's image abroad was
seriously damaged 1n the late 20th century
by the vast quant1t1es of sugar water -
typically bland, overcropped Muller-Thurgau
sweetened with grape concentrate -
exported from Germany under such names
as Liebfrau milch and N1erstei ner Gutes
Domtal, this sort of bulk wine is now firmly
1n retreat. And not a minute too soon
The German wine label, one of the most
explicit yet potentially confusing on earth,
has been both cause and instrument of some
of the industry's probl ems. The most
regrettable deception was the legal creation
(in 1971) of Grosslage n, commercially useful,
large geograp hic al units whose names are
i nd1stingu1s hable to most wine drinkers from
those of Einzellagen, ind1vldual vineyards.
But these are playing a dwindling role i n
today's dynamic German wine scene. Some
prod ucers are finding more 1nternat1onally
recogn izable ways of labelling their wines. Are
they any less confusing for the poor buyer?
Significant grapes
Ries ling is the great grape of Germany
Almost a quarter of all German wine 1s made
from 1t Riesling 1s planted to the exclusion of
almost everything else in the best sites ofthe
Mosel, Rhemgau, Nahe, and Pfalz, and is the
dominant variety in Rhemhessen, Mittelrhem,
and the tiny Hessiche Bergstrasse region.
Its downside 1s late ripening
To deliver quantity (1f not quality) reliably,
Germany turned during the mid-20th century
to Muller-Thurgau, a much earlier- ripening,
more productive crossing, bred 1n 1882.
Although there has been a certain limited
renaissance ofthe variety 1n Franken and
around the Bodenaee in the far south,
Muller-Thurga u's share ofthe country's area
under vine almost halved 1n the 20 years since
1995, to 12.4%. However, its product1v1ty still
guarantees 1t a place in standard cheap
German wines, even 1f 1t 1s not mentioned on
the label. Many crossings were bred to deliver
ripeness when that was the yardstick by which
German wines were meas ured. Even the best
of them - mild Kerner, showy Bacchus, and
grapefruit-scented Scheurebe are 1n
retreat Another variety that has lost ground,
in this case unfortunately, is the h1stor1cally
important S1lvaner, although 1t re mains the
most- planted grape variety 1n Franken.
The grapes that have taken over in the
lasttwo decades are the Pinot var1et1es,
We1ssburgunder and Grauburgunder (often
The steep slopes of Wolfshohle above the town
of Bacharach, one of M1ttelrhein's best
vineyards. Rivers - the Rhine here - play a
crucial, warming role in German v1t1culture
barr1que-aged) for whites, Spatburgunder
(alias Pmot No1r) fo r reds. For a long time,
the first two seemed to be strictly spec1alit1es
of Baden and the Pfalz, but they are now bemg
grown as far north as the Nahe and even the
Mosel. Thanks 1n part to domestic demand,
Spatburgunder 1s now so widely grown that
by 2016 1t was almost as widely planted as
M u ller-Thurgau, and making wines that are
infinitely superior
Germany's fourth most-planted variety 1s
the 1956 crossing Dornfelder which, at best ,
can make Juicy, fruity, deep-coloured reds
that have decidedly more character thll'l any
Portug1eser German Syrah is not unknown ,
Merlot and Cabernets are quite common.
German growers have also been planttnl
newly created red wine var1et1es such u the
rot- resistant hybrid Regent, in 2016 crown
on nearly 5,000 ac res (2,000 ha). More than
a third of al l Germany's v ineyards are now
planted with red wine grapes : a revolution
Sachaen, s-1•-Unatrut, Mlttelrtt.ln
In the far east ofthe map on p 223 aretwo
small wine regions, Sachsen and Saale ­
Unstrut They lie roughly on the same
latitude as London, but their much more
conti nental climate fr equently blesses them
with magnificent summers. even 1f th• nsk
of serio u s spring frosts 1s high Substantial
replanting after the reunilkat1or ofthe

cou try 1n 1990 had increased the total
vtl'leyard area by 2016 to almost 1,850 acres
(765 ha) 1n Saale·Unstrut and over 1,200
*icres (500ha) 1n Sachsen. South ·fac 1 ng
slopes are de r1gueur In both regions.
Jn the quarter-century since the collapse
¢'communism a number of producers have
t1sen to prominence: Paw1s 1n Freyburg and
Qussek in Naumburg lead the ranks In
Sa
a
le · Unstrut, while Schloss Proschw1tz near
Meissen and Z1mmerling at Dresden, the early
itlte in Sachsen, have been Joined by Schloss
Wackerbarth at Radebeul and, most notably,
Mart in Schwarz of Meissen, with his eclectic
ntnge including not Just Spatburgu nder and
�esl ing but Chardonnay and even N ebb1olo.
Muller-Thurgau 1s in retreat here, too, its
lJ!ace taken by Riesling and all three Pinot
yar1et1es, with winemakers having learned to
�ndle oak. Most wines are dry, but Spatlesen
.re not uncommon and in exceptional years
!Some noble sweet wines may result, albeit not
�m the (too} late- ripening Riesling
Another wine region not considered in detail
ii\ the pages that follow IS the increasi ngly
$Uccessful Rhineland tourist magnet of the
Mittelrhein, in the west ofthe country (see
map, p.223). Its most important vineyards,
where Riesling 1s king, are southeast of
Ko blenz, between Boppard and Bacharach.
We ingart and Matthias Muller in Spay manage
to prod uce some filigree Spatlesen and
Auslesen from the Engelstein, Mandelstein,
and Fe uerlay sites at Bopparder Hamm. The
wel l·estabhshed To rn Jost and Ratzenberger
do the same at Bacharach on the steep slopes
ofHahn and Wolfshohle (see left).
Sekt
With almost one gal lon (four litres) per head
per year, Germans are the world's most
enthus1ast1c consumers of sparkling wine.
The vast majority of 1t is an inexpensive,
domestical ly produced brand, often rel i ant
on wine imported in bulk. Less than 2%
comes from private growers in Germany,
but in this small segment of Deutscher Sekt
(spar kling wine made from grapes actually
grown tn Germany} some truly outstanding
Wtnes have emerged in the last 10 years.
Raumland of Rhemhessen 1s probably
the most admired producer, but von Buhl
{Pfalz}, Griese! & Compagnie (Hess1sche
Bergstrasse}, and Sekthaus Solter and
Sch loss Vaux (both Rheingau} are other
overachievers.
Vineyard classification
Fo r many years German wine law made no
attempt to limit yields (wh ich can be some
ofthe highest in the world} or to classify
vi neyards as the French do, but this has
changed, at least within the influential VDP, a
private assoc1at1on of about 200 top growers
The VDP sets 1ts members strict ltm1ts on
T HE LANGUAGE OF THE LABEL
lruugerahhlllung
Joh.Jo;'."Priun
D .54<17 0 1.X.,hlcn/ Mawl
"
*
l'lilO CTOf C[lMA\Y
(.1,.) TM rntrlfITU
�:.
.
rtW.Hl U Tl
•le 90%vol
.\.t\r .i,,SJ !JI
750 ml
Mn1el
Riesling
Pradikarswein
20 16
We hlener Sonnenuhr
Kabinecc
QUALITY DESIGNATIONS
Deutscher Priid ikatsweln or JU�t
Priidlkatswein wine mad from the r1 pesl grapes.
German 's best sweet wines are Prlidikatswein,
a lth o u !(h Lhe quan t1t made varies enormously
accord 111g lo t h e character of the vintage, o
chaptaliz, Lion is allowed The Prtid1kale, or
cla 1fications, are, mas endingorderofripeness:
Kabinett ligh t, re fresh ing wines, ideal ap nt1fs or
ligh t lunch w111e to drink young, through the best
improve for up to 10 year
Spiitlese literal! "late harvest" , meaning nper than
Kab mett Wine can var from dry (Spa tlese tro ken)
and fm rly full lo ·weel and lighter-bodied. Can often
age well, upto15 ear ormore
Auslese made from ripergrape t ha n Spatie e,
sometimes bot ryt 1 zed , with, u s u a lly, some res idual
sugar. geing i essential, although eventually Lhe
wines almo t lose the ir weet ness.
Beerenauslese (BA) rare, sweet wine , made from
bo tryti zcd gra pe (Beeren) .
Eiswein wi nes from grapes l11gh 111 sugar and acidity
concentrated by being frozen on the vin e; less rare
than TBA
Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) very ra i·e, very
swee t, very expensive wme made fro m h a nd-picked
grape fully concentrated on the v111e bybotrytis.
Deutscher Qualltiitswein literall a "Ge r man
quahtywine" from a design a t ed wine region.
This quality level used to be rega rded as below
Pradikatswei n , and chaptal1zation 1 allowed,
but thi category isby far the mo t important, and
varied, in Germany. ome excellent wu1es.
Grosses Gewachs d esignation of top-qual ity dry
wines of at least pa tl ese ripenes from a sp ecified top
site for member ofthe priva t e VDP as o iation.
permitted yields,
'
and in 2000 undertook
the politically extremely sens1t1ve task of
classifying Germany's Erste Lagen (top sites}
for various grape varieties specified for eac h
region In 2012, this class1ficat 1on was revised
into a four-tier quality pyramid of Gutsweine
(estate wi nes}. Ortsweme (vi llage wines),
Erste Lagen (Premiers Crus}. and Grosse
Lagen (Grands Crus} Dry wines from Grosse
Lagen are cal led Grosse Gewachse. These, of
course, are hm1ted to VDP members' holdings
and, ltke any such class1flcatlon, the VDP's
combinations of top sites and var1et1es can
GUtMANY
221
Offiu.11 Genn.in wme l.iw d.1'81 fics Lhcm .1,
Qu.1hlhlswein I roeken (w ithout prcd ll .ll<')
Classlc di")' L.1;Lmg wmc (up lo 1 5 ;t I 1 c,1du.1l ,ugar)
made fro m a single grap<. var1c ly.
Landweln Germany's trn,wer Lo f(,P/\'in de Pays
has nol been a po1J u l nr d c 1gn.illon when QuahtliLswc111
i• sowidely av<1i1Jble bu t, .i' 111 France, 1l 1> bein� USLd
for llllCOl1VCnl1onal Wl llCS, some of lhun eXLClill
l
l,
e.pec ial ly m Baden
Deutscher Wein ve ry >m.tll ca t egory for lhe nw l
bns1c, hghtesl wme
OTHER COMMON EXPRESSIONS
Amtliche Prilfungsnummer (AP Nr) every lot
ofwi n e, Pr.1d1kal•we1n a nd Qual1tat;,we 111, hru. to be
otn rnJly "te Led" and gets this test n u m be r; the first
d1g1t o1gnlfies the le t otalion, last two theyear of
the le•l
Erzeugerabfilllung or Gutsabfilllung e t.1le
bottled
halbtrocken m edium- dry, with up to 18IV l rc;1dual
sugar
felnherb popular but unofficial term, toleratedby
offi cial Gennan wm e law, for medium-d ry, used by
some mstead ofhalbtrocken and by others to i denti fy
wines with a little more residual sugar than
halbtrocken
trocken dry (up to 9 g;I residual ;ugar)
Welngut wme estate
Weinkellerei wine compan , usually large bottling
operations
Winzerge nossenschaft/Wlnzerverein wine­
growers' co-operative
Traditional German wine labels often frighten
non- Ge rman speakers wi th their l ong names and
archak type But they were consistent and could easily
be decoded with pat ience. Sadly, the consistency has
gone, and what used to be on the fro nt of the bottle is
now often on the back. In a m 1sgu1ded search for
implicity - orsimilarity with Burgundy? - some
grower no\ use only t he vineyard name (for example,
Schlossb rg) on the fro nt l abel , relegating the
all-important village name to Lhe back label
The traditional formula (for ex ample, Blankhe1mer
Schlo sberg patle e) to ld you all you needed to
know (apart from the produce r's name)
be disputed, but the assoc1at1on's online
maps, published in 2018 after three years'
work, offer an unrivalled degree of detail
which few would question.
In this Atlas we continue to highlight our
own selection ofthat small proportion of
vineyards we consider consistently superior
by shading them 1n lilac, and purple for the
best. This bold vineyard classification was
made in collaboration with Germany's
top-quality growers, local wine organ izations,
and to a certa1 n extent the VDP, but is not
Identical to the VDP's class1ficat1on

•
a
•
c
c
0
D
T
.!.
'
226
Ahr
The Ahr is a little river that makes its way
from the Eifel Mountains to the Rhine,
between Koblenz and Bonn, through a
beautiful narrow valley, a gorge in places.
Its vineyards, despite being so far north,
have long been devoted to Splitburpmder.
It 1s only since the 1990s, however, that its
wines have been able to bewitch Pinot No1r
enthusiasts. Before that, the Ahr Val ley
attracted coachload s of up to two million
thirsty visitors a year, happy with its cheap,
pale, often sweet red.
This did not make economic sense; many of
the vineyards are planted on steep and stony
slopes, req uiring long hours of intensive
manual labour As German palates became
more refi ned, and 1n the 1980s turned
gradually to drier wines, a handful of pioneers
risked the change fro m mass production to
planting Burgundian clones, red ucing yields,
THE MIDDLE AND LOWER AHR
The AhrValley extends many miles further west
and a little fu rther east, but the best vineyards,
those coloured darkest purple, are in the
stretch mapped here. They are all on
the left bank of the river
fac ing south.
and age ing Spatburgunder in barr1ques
The estates of Meyer- Nakel, Deutzerhof,
and Jean Stodden took only a few years
offine-tuning before they made the
breakthrough into the German red wine elite
with, respectively, their wines from Dernauer
Pfarrwingert, Mayschosser Monchberg, and
Recher Herrenberg Their success has since
encouraged many others. The Adenauer,
Kreuzberg, and Nelles fam ilies were the first
to follow but now fa ce healthy competition
from Burggarten of Heppingen, Paul
Schumacher in Mar1enthal, Sermann in
Altenahr, and Peter Kr1echel of Walporzhe1m
(whose 67 acres/27 ha make him the valley's
largest private vineyard owner)
The well-preserved remains of a large
Roman villa at the foot of the Ahrwe1ler
Silberberg suggest that it was the Romans
who brought the vine to the val l ey, but the
earliest recorded reference to vineyards
here 1s dated 770 In many parts of
the val ley the slopes are so vertiginous that
they have to be terraced In the first half of
�
t--
1 n.oo
o
km�
'I
1Kn
Mi!.O
I,2
I..
.
20
0
I•
Grape harvest m one of the ,I.hr Valley'a
less dramatically steep and stony vin eyards,
but 1t still requires many per-son -hours of
intricate labour - under � to kHP greedy
birds at bay
the 19th century, rising wrne taxes and a
collapse rn the prrce ofgrapes drove many
Ahr growers to emigrate to America. In 1868.
18 ofthose who remained fo unded Germany's
first wine co-operative, the Mayschosser
W 1nzerverein, with such success that by 1892
the number of members had rrsen to 1 80.
Ever since then growers' co-operat ives have
played an important part in the Ahr and
receive the majority of the harvest to this day
In 201 6, red wine grapes acc ounted for 83%
of the 1,390 acres (563ha) under vine.
Spatburgunder dominates with 65% ofthe
total Ahr vineyard, followed by the early­
r1pen1ng Pinot No1r mutation Fruhburgunder
(6. 2%) Riesling (8%) is the only white wine
variety of any relevance.
Geologically, the 15-mile (25-km) stretch of
vineyards may be d1v1ded into the Mittelahr
(Middle Ahr), between Altenahr and
Wal porzherm (of Garkammer and Krauterberg
fa me); and the Unterahr (Lower Ahr), from
Ahrwe1ler to H eimershe1m. The rocky slopes
of the narrow Middle Ahr valley, largely
weathered slate and greywacke, store
summer heat, temperatures are unexpectedly
high fo r so far north. The combination of an
al m ost Mediterranean mesoclimate and the
stony ground results in wines with a strongly
mineral signature and firm structu re. The
soils ofthe wider Lower Ahr are higher in
loess and loam, resulting in slightly richer,
iu1c1er, softer wines. Rosenthal north of
Ahrwe1ler, Sonnenberg north of Bad Neuenahr,
and Burggarten east of Heppingen are
among the best sites
/
';.;
•ousseldorf
Emzella11e
c)
Kreis (rural d1stnct) boundary
l
Koln.:
Geme1nde !parish) boundary
Except10nal vineyard
Excellent vineyard
Other vineyard
/
Kobl•n• ,
Woods
Cor tour interval 20 metre
_l

Mosel
The sinuous River Mo..l ls lined by vines all
the w� fr om Its source In the Vos1es
Mountains In France, where It Is known as
the Moselle, to Its confluence with the Rhine
at Ko blenz. All the great Mosels are made
from Rieslln1, but this far north Riesling wlll
rtpen only on near-Ideal sites. With every
twist and turn of the river comes a dramatic
change I n vineyard potential In general, al l the
best sites face south and slope steeply down
towards the reflective river But the grad ient
that makes them the source of some ofthe
finest wine in the world also makes them
nearly 1mposs1ble to work This, together with
theta.ctthat much ofthe inferior Muller­
Thurgau that was planted on flatter, less
propitious sites has been uprooted and the
land put to other uses, means that the Mosel's
total area of vines shrank by about a third
between the late 1980s and 2009.
There were bargai ns to be had . Far-s ighted
growers such as Markus Molitor and Roman
N1ewodrnczanski of the van Volxem estate
snapped up vineyards abandoned by less
dedicated far mers, the latter focusing his
energies on bone-dry wines made from
thoroughly ripe grapes (Before the
advent ofclimate change, there were
years when some Mosel wine was iust
too fai nt and sharp, residual sugar
was used as a crutch.)
But today, so long as 1t can continue
tofind enough people willing to work
its gravity-defying vineyards, the val ley
seems to have found its equ1libr1um, with
total plantings stable at around 21,750
acres (8,800 ha) and a ready market for its
uniquely delicate, refreshing, unexpectedly
long-lwed wines. A new generation of growers,
organizing events such as the annual Mythos
Mosel public wine tasting (the weekend after
Whitsun) in a series of estates along a stretch
ofthe river, has breathed new life into the
region. There is a new confidence in attributes
found nowhere else in the wine world.
Around the turn of the millennrum,
Germany's wine drinkers seemed to be
turntng against any wi ne that was not bone
dry, but today the Mosel's uniquely fre sh,
fru ity Kabinetts and dehc1ously racy
Spitlesen are bac k in vogue, and the off-dry
fe inherb style 1s probably more popular here
than in any other region of Germany.
That said, warmer summers mean that
Mo.set Rleshngs no longer have to depend on
�sldual sugar to mitigate sharp ac idity, and
it 1s notJUSt Van Volxem but some notable
producers downriver ofthe Mittelmosel
mapped in fine detail on the fo llowing pages
that are making notable dry Rieslings .
Heyman n-Lc".iwenstein's steep, rocky terraces
SOILS OF' THI MOSEL
Elblln&, Graubur1und•r, and W•lubur1und•r
1row on limHton• in the ObermoMI, whll• th•
slate of the Mlttelmosel Is rHerved fo r R1eslln1.
M uller-Thurgau wlll ripen more or less anywhere
so Is planted on other soll types. Th• harder,
often quartzite, solls of the Terrassenmosel
downriver yield generally rather sturdy
Rieslings . The tiny Moseltor is geologically an
extension of the Obermosel but political ly part
of the state of Saarland.
• Bremm
-
-
-
-
-
Lili:
:]
are in Winningen near Koblenz Thorsten
Melsheimer of Reil and Clemens Busch of
Punder1ch are both upriver of Zel l and both
enthus1ast1c exponents of minimal
intervention in both vineyard and winery.
The telltale stink of a young wine fe rmented
spontaneously 1s worn as a badge of honour.
Ruwer greatness
The Mosel's two great vinous side val leys are
the Saar (see overleaf) and the Ruwer, both
fa mous for their Riesling grown on grey slate
The Ruwer 1s a mere stream With Just 395
acres (160 ha) of vi nes, its vineyards add up to
about halfthose of one Cote d'Or commune,
but 1t 1s home to one of the oldest and most
prest1g1ous wine estates in Germany. Maximin
Grunhaus, owned bythe von Schubert fa mily
In Mertesdorf, 1s set obliquely to the left bank
of the river with the manor house, a former
monastic property, at its foot . A subterranean
aq ueduct, still passable by fo ot, connects the
Grunhaus property with Trier, the Roman (and
current) capital ofthe Mosel 5 miles (8km)
Notable wine commune
Terrassenmosel
Mlttelmosel
Ruwer
Saar
Obermosel
Moseltor
Mun$ler 0
Maifeld
0 Brdhl
0Mo ntzhe1m
0 Roversbeuren
KmO
Molo
o
O
Area mapped at larger scale
on page shown
1 680,00
0
10
20Km
!OM.lo
o
upstream. From its Abtsberg, Herrenberg,
and Bruderberg vineyards Max1m1n
Grunhaus makes Riesli ngs that are infinitely
ftne and fu ll of subtlety, plus a little refreshing
Pinot No1r. Other producers ofnote in this
miniature wme d1str1ct are Karthauserhof at
E1telsbach, von Beulw1tz at Mertesdorf, and
Re1chsgraf von Kesselstatt at Morsche1d
Upstream of the Saar, the ro lling fa rm land
1s regularly under threat from spring fro sts,
and vineyards are almost completely
devoted to the hardy, h1stor1c, 1f rust1c,
Elbling vine. Elblmg makes light, tart wme,
sometimes lightly sparkling, both in the tiny
limestone Obermosel d1str1ct and in
Luxembourg across the river Luxembourg's
growers, ro utine chaptal izers, rely largely
on Rivaner (Muller-Thurgau) and on such
low-ac id grapes as Auxerrois Their st rong
suit 1s sparkling wine
Most ofthe rest ofthe Mosel's great wine
1s made between Serr1g and Zell on those
sections of the val ley mapped in detail on the
pages that fol low.
•I
I•
c
o
D
T
E
'

228
GERMANY • MOSEL
Saar
The wines of theSaar Valley are
Germany's great and unrivalled gifts to
the world of wine: the least potent but
most thrillingly nuanced wines in the
world. They are all Rieslings of in1m1table
delicacy that age beautifully, typical ly
vi brating with fruit and extract.
Today, it 1s hard to be lieve that not that
long ago the future of the Saar as a w1ne­
growing region seemed in serious jeopardy.
So inhospitable was the climate in this Mosel
side valley that it was too cold to ripen grapes
more than three or four times in a decade -
certai nly not enough to earn a decent living
at a time, in the 1960s and 1970s, when the
rest ofthe country was benefitting from the
post-war German econom ic mirac le And yet,
at the beginning ofthe 20th century the
Saar's best wi nes were more highly priced
than Bordeaux first growths.
Two wo rld wars later and the region had
contracted by more than half to its present
size of about 1,975 acres (800 ha), with
orchards and pasture between the vines.
This 1s cal m, open ag ricultu ral cou ntry. And,
as in the best parts ofthe Mosel, the so1l 1s
pr1mar1fy Devonian slate
The map opposite shows more clearly
than any ot her map the way that only the
south-fac ing slopes - nearly al l on steep
hillsides at right angles to the river - offe r
wine-growers a realistic chance of enough
sunshine to ripen their Riesling Fo r many
smal l, often part time, growers, the
logistics of working such awkward plots
no longer made economic sense and they
let their land go to waste Others sought
economic salvation in cheap wines, often
made from the earl ier-ripening Muller­
Thurgau and Ke rner. Alternatively, Riesling
sweetened with Sussreserve (sterilized
grape juice) was a popular late 20th­
century tool for German winemakers.
With far too few exceptions, the magic
formula for vibrant, delicate Riesling
dependent on a unique terro1r had been lost
Only a few prod ucers, above all Egon Muller
with his Scharzhof estate just east of
W1ltingen, but also von Hovel at Oberemmel
and von Othegraven at Kanzem, kept the
flame alive
When finally, partly as a consequence of
the diethylene glycol "antifreeze" scandal in
1985, the market for cheap sweet wines
sh rivelled, there was only one sensible
cou rse of act ion fo r the remaining growers
- a return to the old values. Among the first
to show faith in a re naissance of fine Saar
Riesling were Hans-Joachim (Hanno) Zilllken
of Saarburg, Peter Lauer ofAy l, and
Chr11t1an Ebert ofSchloss Saarsteln in
Serr1g Through sheer ded1cat1on they
managed to prod uce exciting wines even in
those growing seasons of the 1980s when
the weather was far from ideal
Growing warmer
In the 1990s, climate change began to have
a particularly beneficial effect on the more
northerly vineyards of Germany, and Saar
Riesling managed to ripen fu lly almost every
year. The region's growers no longer live
on an economic knife-edge and are able to
fas hion Germany's raciest, most transparent
Rieslings, with tingling ac 1d1ty counter­
balancing apple- like fr eshness and bite, a
marve llous mingl ing of honey m the scent
and steel on the finish.
In the eyes of most, Egon Muller 1s still
kingofthe val ley (the fo urth-generat ion
Egon Is currently in charge), and a record ­
breaking €12,000 paid at auction for one
bottle ofthe estate's Scharzhofberger
Troc kenbeerenauslese 2003 in September
2015 seemed to confirm that status. (Egon
Muller also manages the Le Galla1s estate,
with the fa mous Brau ne Kupp vineyard , at
the other end of W1ltmgen. ) But 1f not in
price, then in qual ity, Hanno Z1lliken and his
daughter Dorothee have taken thei r wines
from the Saarburger Rausch vineyard to
the same level ofexcellence. Both estates
specialize in fr uity wines from juicy Kabinett
to heavily botryt1zed Troc kenbeerenauslese,
Egon Muller exclusively so.
But dry wines are also made in the Saar.
Roman N1ewodniczanski of the Van Vo lxem
estate at Wlltin1en argues that he is merely
It's easy to see where the Saar wmds its way
through the Hunsruck hills fr om this Zilliken
vineyard. And to see how being above the fog
/me could help compensate fo r proximity to
the river.
continuing a h1stor1c tradition with his
1mpress1ve Grosse Gewachse dry Rreslings,
which enjoy al most cult status Florian La-­
of Peter Lauer in Ayl has bullt a similar
reputation fo r his off-dry fe mherb Rresl mga
Lauer's "wine hotel", Ayler Kupp, has fe d an\i
rested Hugh many times
Among producers there 1s a new confideM
in the future for Saar wi ne, manifested
particularly in major projects driven by two
of the most passionately perfectionist
winemakers not just m the Saar, but the
whole of Germany Markus Molitor, of W9illfl
l
m the Middle Mosel fa me, bought the fo rmel"
state domaine at Serr1g at the bottom oftm
map opposite, completely overhauling the
54 acre (22 ha) site. Van Volxem has invested
heavily in the construction of a brand new
winery overlooking the fa mous
Scharzhofberg vineyard
However, there 1s still room at the Saar for
ultra· trad1t1onalists, too, as the surge 1n
popularity for the Riesling Kabmetts and
Spatlesen from Hofgut Falkenstein in
Ko nz N1edermennig demonstrates. With
their linear structu re and crystalUne fr uit ,
they engender the kind of fr isson
Francoph1fes associate with a cool, steely
Chablis. Fo re/le blau, a fre sh brook trout in
butter, 1s the dish to order

Th e south-fo l
So.«rb
ac ng
pret
t;y
ur ger Rausch l
fromt.h
w
e/I protecte:
ewmd b
slope var/
ut the
toa
k esfrom40"
nee·trembll
60". The nam
n
g
from ana
e comes
name for �
c
�alc local
rubble R
• rlsor
•
usche.
,,,
Saar MOSEL . Gll.. MANY
The most fo
69 acre (28h
amous vineyard h
site som
a) Scharzhofberg
erebyfaristhe
manages
eweyfromtheri�
a south-facing
Muller
(IV ;:specially in the h::d
but one that
current/ .
sofan£,
some ofth
:Y m charge) t
gon
e world's great
'
o produce
est white wines.
t
-
IWJ'l'
Einzellage
-
Kreis (rural dtstnctl bo
Ge
undary
me1nde (parish) bo
Ex
undary
ceptlonal vineyard
Excellent vineyard
Other vineyard
Woods
Contour interval 20 metres
Km
�
1 50,00
0
----
-
,
-
Milo
¥Km
M
o
t.
O
r-
--
-
)
,,,
...
22t
c
o
0
T
'
T
'
o

0
T
'
'
Middle Mos el: Piesport
The spectacular river walls of slate
mapped here, rising over 700ft (200 m) in
places, were first planted with vines by the
Romans In the 4th century. They provide
perfect cond1t1ons for Riesling, introduced
here in the 15th century and firmly rooted in
the best sites during the 18th.
The wines of the river vary along its banks
even more than, say, the wines of Burgundy
vary along the Cote d'Or But all the best sites
face south or southwest, held up to the sun
like toast to a fire. So hot are these vineyards
in midsummer that working 1n them after
noon 1s unthinkable. The vineyards also
benefit both from the hill north of M1nhe1m,
which effe ctively closes this stretch ofthe
valley to cold eastern winds, and the wooded
slopes above the vineyards, which exude cold
ai r at night, encouraging dramatic differences
between day and night temperatures and
retaining acid and aroma In the wines.
The M1ttelmosel (Middle Mosel) 1s generally
accepted as virtually 1dent1cal to the legally
delimited Bere1ch Bernkastel, from Tr ier in
the southwest to Punderich and Re 1l 1n the
northeast (see p 227). It includes a procession
of great vineyard names, coloured deep
purple on our map, although across the river
from many of them 1s flat land perhaps better
employed for other crops
Here and overleaf we map beyond the
central and most fa mous villages to include
several whose wine is often underrated
One obvious candidate is Thornich at the
southern end of th1s map, whose R1tsch
vineyard has been brought to glorious life
by Carl Loewen. Another in this category
is Klusserath just downstream, where
Kirste n, Josef Rosch, and F J. Regnery have
been making exceptional wines from the
Bruderschaft vineyard, a ty pical Mosel steep
bank curving from south to southwest There
1s an important difference between delicacy
and fa intness; these wines are delicate.
The long tongue of land that ends in
Tr1ttenhe1m 1s al most a cliffwhere the village
of Leiwen JUmps the river to claim the
vineyard of Laurentiuslay. Fine examples
abou nd, some of the greatest coming from
Nik Weis of St Urbans· Hof and Carl Loewen
The best-exposed site of Tr1ttenheim Is
the Apotheke vineyard , which hes across
the river, northeast of the village, and 1s
we ll represented by the wines of Ansgar
Clusserat h, Franz-Josef E1fe l, and Grans­
Fass1an Like many sites here the vi neyards
are so steep that a monorai l is necessary
to work them. Downriver from here, the
town of Neumagen-Dhron, a Roman fo rt
and land ing place, keeps In its little leafy
A wintry look at that portion ofthe Piesporter
Goldtropfchen amphitheatre that fa ces due
south The church and the sinuous road
between the two portions of vineyard are
shown very clearly on the map opposite.
square a remarkable Roman carving of a
Mosel wine ship, laden with barrels and
weary galley slaves The Hofberg site
above the meandering stream of the
Dhron, iust before it Joins the
Mosel, may seem an unlikely place
for Pinot No1r, but the blue
slate ofits slopes, rich in
iron oxide, has prod uced
some remarkable
results in the hands of
newcomer Daniel
Twardowsk1
Two miles (3km)
fu rther downriver the
Mosel twists agai n,
and on a short stretch
of the left bank lies
the world-famous
south-fac ing bowl of
vines that 1s Piesporter
Goldtropfchen. This
dramatic amphitheatre
confers glory on Plesport far
above that of its neighbours.
Its honeyed wines have magical
fragrance and breed ing, which c.an,
thanks to the deep, clay like slate
•I

here, exude almost baroque aromas.
Reinhold Ha.art, Julian Haart, St Urban s-Hof,
and Hain are the outstandtni producers.
Mrchelsberg is the Grosslage (amalgam
ofvtneyards) name for this part of the river,
aH the way from Tr1ttenhelm to Minhelm
"P•sporter M1che lsbe rg", therefore, has
not normally been P1esporter at all -
typical of how Grosslagen names have
mlaled the consumer Fo rtunately they
are now in retreat
't.t
te
re are few perfectly aligned slopes
alq the stretch between P1esport and
Bl'aw neberg, with the exception of the
OWlgs berg south of W1ntr1ch. At the
�nmg ofthe 20th century its wines were
&lhlghly rated as Bernkasteler Doctor and
$oht.rzhofberger. Featherlight Kabmetts
aMI l'efined Spatlesen fr om Reinhold
� have restored fa ith 1n the
�Iona! quality of th1s
._neglected site, a
-p1
1rt
1cularly steep slope
rtft,rey slate with
Q.Oartz.
would be a waste
oft/me.
•I
Middle Mosel P1esport MOSEL • CllftMANY
2i1
Some of the most exquisite R1eslin1 of the
Mosel comes from the great ramp of vines
that rises opposite the village of Brauneberg
and comprises the Juffer and Juffer
Sonnenuhr (the part ofJuffer with the sundial)
vineyards. Fritz Haag and Max Ferd Richter
have made glorious golden examples at all
levels of sweetness, 1n both parts of the Juffe r
In Juffer-Sonnenuhr, Schloss Lieser (see
overleaf) also excels.
ll
l!IJ)
Einzellage
Km
Mi!.O
Kreis (rural d1stnct) boundary
Gemeinde (panshl boundary
- Exceptional vineyard
-
Excellent vineyard
c=J Other vineyard
Woods
20
0
-
Contour interval 20 metres
THORNICH TO BRAUNEBERG
Piesporter
Goldtropfc hen is one of
the Mosef's largest top
vineyards, with a total
ofmore than 160 acres
(65ha). The cliffs to the
north protect the vines
fr om the chilliest winds.
t
1 50,00
0
Km
IMio
What a procession of great vineyard names!
Yet note how all the deeper- purple sites face
either south or west. Look at the contour lines
and see how flat some banks are - aood only
fo r M uller-Thurgau .
,,,
•1•
•I•
c
0
0
T
E
7
F
'G

232
GERMANY · MOSEL
Middle Mose l: B e rnkastel
The view from the ruined castle above
Bernkastel in summer Is of a green wall
of vines 700f't (200 m) high and flve miles
(Bkm) long. Only the Douro, in Portugal, in
the whole gazetteer ofrivers to which the
vine 1s wedded, has anything approaching a
comparable sight. No other wine region offers
the tourist such ideal sipping conditions, on
a terrace in summer, by the fire 1n winter, 1n
dozens oflittle fa mily cellars where you can
taste what they make by the glass.
From Brauneberg to the Bernkastel suburb
ofKues, many ofthe hills are relatively
modest - some of the wines, too. One of the
more notable products of th1s stretch is the
E1swein regularly gathered by Max Ferd
Richter from the Helenenkloster vineyard
above Mulhe1m The top sites are
exceptionally steep, however, in Lieser, a
village perhaps best known for its vast,
19th-century neo-Gothic castle, now a luxury
hotel, at the foot of the Rosenlay (see below).
Next door 1s the Schloss Lieser wine estate,
run with great aplomb by Thomas Haag. One
of 1ts prime assets is the N1ederberg- Helden
vineyard on a perfect south-fac ing slope.
The Mosel's most famous vineyard starts
abruptly, r1s1ng almost sheer above the gables
of the to urist mecca that 1s Bernkastel dark
slate fr owning at slate. The butt of the hill, its
one straight south elevation, is the Doctor
vineyard From its fl ank the proudest names
of the Mosel fo llow one another in unbroken
succession. Compar1sor:i of the first growths
of Bernkastel with those of G raach and
Wahlen, often with wines fro m the same
growers in each place, 1s a fa scinating game
The trademark of Bernkastel 1s a touch of
fl int. Wehleners, grown on shallow stony slate,
are rich and filigreed while those grown on the
deeper, heavier slate of Graach are earthier.
The least of these wines should be
something with a very obvious personality
The greatest of them, long-lived, pale gold,
piquant, fr ivolous yet profound, are wines that
beg to be compared with music and poetry.
Many world-famous producers cluster here,
although a hike through the vineyards (too
steep for a stroll) quickly demonstrates that
not all the growers are equally conscientious.
JJ Prum has long been the leading grower of
Wahlen Markus Molitor (also of Wehlen) has
won his reputation more recently, not Just with
fine Riesling but with some unusually excellent
Spatburgunder, too Ernr (Dr) Loosen of
Bernkastel, Selbach-Oster, and Willi Schaefer
.
'
..
.
..
�I
:''• 1:
•
•·..
�
also command worldwide respect, while von
Kesselstatt continues its excellent work this
far downstream Despite vehement protests
and some serious flaws in planning and
construction, the landscape has been chanted
forever by a vast bridge at Urz1g, brrng!ng a
highway through the sens1t1ve drainage area
ofthese superlative Riesling sites
Zeltrngen brings the Great Wall to an end
It 1s the Mosel's biggest wine commune, and
among its best. At Urz1g, the uniq uely spicy
properties ofthe Wurzgarten's red, rocky
slate are arguably best illustrated by the
near-weightless wines of the tiny estate of
Jos Christoffel Jr. Erden's finest vineyard,
the Pralat, ac ross the river fro m the village,
1s probably the warmest in the entire valley,
sandwiched between prec1p1tous red slate
cliffs and the river. Dr Hermann makes some
of the best Riesling here, as well as in the
Treppchen vineyard, whose mix of blue, red,
and grey slate tends to be a little cooler,
producing distinctly refreshing wines. It 118ed
to be thought that the drama of Mosel wine
ended at Kinhe1m, but over the last two
decades or so producers such as Swiss-born
Darnel Vollenweider of Wolf, Martin Mullen of
The extravagantly V1 ctor1an Schloss Lieser,
seen here m autumn, m fr ont of the N1ederberg­
Helden vmeyard, which 1s protected by woods
fr om winds fr om the north

Traben Trarbach, We 1ser·Kunatler with the
Enklrcher Ellergrub, Thoraten Melsheimer
on �I. and b1odynam1c Clemens Busch in
Punderich (the latter two offthe mapto the
north) are proving ot herwise in a deltcious
and mdeed dramatic way.
Juat downstream from here at Zell (see
p 227), the landscape changes dramatically,
with most of the vineyards pl anted on narrow
terraces, 1nsp1r1ng this lower section of the
The contentious
new bridge .
Middle Mosel Bernkute MOSEL • GlftMANY
2ft
Mosel Valley's name: TerraasenmoseL Of the
many excellent sites here the most important
today are Europe's steepest vineyard,
Calmont 1n Bremm, Gans in Gondorf; and
the Uhlen (an exceptional site) and Rottgen
of Winningen Such exciting producers
as Heymann Lowe nstein and Knebel
i n W1nn1nge n, Franzen in Bremm, and
Lubent1ushof in Nlederfe ll provide the proof
in bottles of Riesling, both sweet and dry.
1 50,00
0
I
1Km
IMoio
•
I
N
The Doctor vineyard once
produced the most expensive
wines m Germany.
� Emzellage
Kreis (rural d1stnct) boundary
Gememde (parish) boundary
- Exceptional vineyard
- Excellent VJneyard
other wieyard
Wo
ods
,/f)()
Contour interval 20 metres
•I•
f
..

234
GERMANY
Nahe
What would you expect of a region neatly
inserted between the Mosel, Rheinhessen,
and the Rheingau? Precisely. Nahe wines
capture the exact vineyard expression of
those from the Mosel, and live as long, but
can also reveal the body and grapey intensity
of Rhine wines. But this 1s no copycat region .
Smee the Nahe was delimited as a disti nct
w1nemakmg entity tn 1971 1t has carved out an
enviable reputation, not least since the vogue
for dry wi nes took hold. Some of Germany's
most brilliant dry Riesli ngs are now made here
The speed with which the Nahe has come to
be associated with the very best ii'\ German
wine has been re markable Until the 1980s
only a handful of growers was recogn ized
as producing wines of superior quality.
It was then that a newcomer called Helmut
Donnhoff of the Hermann Donnhoff estate
m Oberhausen began making a name for
THE WINE CENTRES OF NAHE
The vineyards ofthe Nahe are particularly
widely dispersed, as this map of all significant
wine towns and villages shows. Vineyards
cluster not just on the banks of the River Nahe
but also on those of the Alsenz, Ellerbach ,
Grafenbach, and Guldenbach
Bockenau arguably deserves
to be mapped m as much detail
as Monzmgen, to judge fr om
Schafer-Froh/ich's consistently �
top-quality dry Rieslings
fr om the Felseneck and
Stromberg vineyards,
and some great
botryt1zed sweet
rend1t1ons, too.
•
eisenheim
' llboch
Landesarenze <state bound< ry'
•°"
""'
m Notable wine ommune
landover30
0
metres
r;34'
Area "lapped at larger scale
�
onpage•hewn
h1mself far beyond the region, with wines of
outstand ing purity and vibrancy. Starting
out with the traditional fruity and noble
sweet styles, he also turned his hand to dry
wi nes, revo lutionary m those days. He was
soon joined by other young prete nders
such as Werner Schonieber m Monzmgen,
Dr Peter Crus1us of Tra1sen, Armin Diel of
Burg Layen, and Stefan.Rumpf of Munster­
Sarmshe1m These estates are sti ll at the
vanguard ofquality today, altnough 1n most
of them the helm has been taken by the next
generation Competition has increased, too,
with newer estates such as Schafe r- Frohlic h ,
Jakob Schneider, and Gut Hermannsberg
also prod ucing outstanding wines
Dry, fruity, or sweet, what all their top
wines have in common 1s that they are made
from Riesling, even though their vineyard
soils may vary greatly, from sandstone and
loam to porphyry and quartzite, fro m slate
to gravel and loess. Although traditionally
Nahe growers produced a wide range of
different varietals, Riesling is king for ail
125600
0
I
usen
the top estates . However, some of them are
beg1nrnng to experiment With Pinot in ail
three colours. Red wine grapes - Domfelder
being more widely grown than Spatburgunder
(P1not No1r) - make up around 20% of the
region's total plant ings .
Diffusion
The Nahe's top vineyards are much more
widely dispersed than those of, say, the
Mosel or Rheingau. We havetried to mapthe
most significant wi ne-growi ng areas but it is
not easy. The River Nahe flows northeast
parallel to the Mosel, out ofthe Hunsruck
hills, to join the Rhine at B i ngen. Whereas the
Mosel 1s the very spine of its vi neyards, the
Nahe 1s flan ked by scattered outbreaks of
wine-growing where either its own banks or
those of 1ts tributaries - the Alsenz,
Ellerbach, Gaulsbach, Gian, Grafenbach,
Guldenbach, and Trollbach - face south.
(The best vineyards are no easier to work
than the Mosel's, however, and the number
ofgrowers has been declining.)
The best
vmeya rd in
Dorshe1m is
Goldloch,
situated on a
steep, south·
fa cmg slope.
1 75,00
0
Km�._
___
_.
1
__
..,.
..
..
.
�
�Km
Mllo
o
0
1h
i
Mile
MONZINGEN
The sprawl ofFruhlin&splltzchen, either side of
Monzingen, is clear when co mpared with the
much more restricted Hale nbera.

Donnhoff's rlver•1de Oberhtluser Brucke, at
2 7 acres (1 1ha) is one of th• smallest vineyards
m the Na he, and Is partlcularly suitable for
Elsweln production.
The westernmost of the top-qual ity wine
distri cts 1s Monzingen, mapped 1n detail
below left, whose two first-class sites
..,.
.
the stony, slaty Halenberg, and the
more sprawl ing, variable, and damp
Fruhltngsplatzchen, with redder, softer soil
Emrlch ·Sch6nleber and Schafer-Frohlich
are the outstanding exponents in this
broad , open val ley, which contrasts with
the narrow drama of the Nahe's most
concent rated st retc h of great vineyards a
few miles fu rt her downstream Mapped 1n
detai l below right, they he on the left, south­
fac mg bank of the river as 1t winds around
Schlossbockelheim, Oberhausen,
N1ederhausen, and Norhei m . They were
classified by the Royal Prussian Surveyor in
1901 (on a map rev ived in the 1990s by the
VDP as a blueprint for vineyard quality)
Niederhauser Hermannshohle was rated
first, encouraging the Prussian government
to establish a new Staatswe ingut (state
wme domain) here the following year
Scrub-covered arid hillsides and old copper
mines (Kupfergrube) were cleared using
co nvict labour to create several new
vineyard sites. Its wines then challenged
those of the long-established Felsenberg
downstream from Schlossbockelhe1m,
today rendered so eloquently by Schafer­
Frohhch, whose other great vineyard 1s,
confusingly, the steep Fe lseneck of
Bockenau well north of the river.
Rise, decline, and rebirth
From the 1920s, the Nahe Staatsweingut at
N1ederhausen, as well as Re1chsgraf von
SCHLOSSB0CKELHEIM TO
BAD MONSTER
Thetown of Bad Munster and other townships
have been encroaching on old vineyards in this
stretch ofglorious south-fac ing sites, typically
overlooking the river and, often, caravan
Sites on the other side. Hermannshohle is the
prime srte, on a steep slope ofdark slate with
'limestone and porphyry.
Plettenberg, Carl Finkenauer, and va rious
members ofthe Anheuser dynasty, al l based
m Bad Kreuznach but with vineyards
upstream, produced wines of a brilliance and
pungent m1nerahty as spectacular as the
rocky landscape In those days, the fa me of
the top growers was much greater than that
ofthe region itself From the late 1980s, the
Staatswe mgut fa iled to play the leading role
for which 1t was established. Two changes
of ownership later, and following a major
restructuring program me, 1t has made its
way back to its former glory The new owners
renamed the estate Gut Hermannsberg,
after its prime asset, the Hermannsberg
vineyard, not to be confused with the
adjacent Hermannshohle. Together with
the Oberhauser Brucke, a monopole, and
Norhe1mer Dellchen sites, Hermannshohle
1s one of theJewels m the crown ofthe
st11l-except1onal and stead ily expanding
Donnhoff holdings.
1 50,.50
0
Km------.-'-
-
--..
.,.
.
..
.,.
..
..
..
..
.
Km
Md•0
1/2
IMole
iederhausen
ll1il
lt'il
l
lil
l!'
.
E1nzellage
South of the town of Bad Kreuznach, J ust
upstream of the Bad Munster bend, the red
prec1p1ce of the Rotenfels, said to be the
highest cliff m Europe north ofthe Alps, can
st ill yield fu ll flavo ured wine from the strip
offallen rubble at its foot . Dr Crusius 1s the
principal custod ian of th1s short ram p of a
red -earth suntrap the potentially great
Tra1 ser Baste1
Downstream from here, and north
of the area mapped m detai l below, 1s
an increasingly vibrant wine scene. In
Dorshe1m, Armin D1el's daughter Caroline
1s producing a range ofdazzling wines at
Schlossgut Diel - her eponymous Pinot No1r
perhaps the best red wine of the Nahe
Stefan Rumpf of the Kruger-Rumpf estate
m Munster-Sarmshe1m, almost on the
outskirts of Bingen where the Nahe meets
the Rhemgau, makes exciting Riesling from
holdings m the Dautenpflanzer and
P1ttersberg vineyards.
Kreis (rural district) boundary
Gemeinde (parish) boundary
- Excellent vineyard
Other vineyard
Wo
od
s
- Exceptional vineyard
I•
•I
Contour interval 20 metres
D
[

•
T
c
236
GERMANY
Rheingau
The Rhelngau was for long the spiritual
heart of German wine. It is the birthplace
of Riesling and the site of its most historic
vineyard, planted by Burgundian
Cistercians as a rival to the Clos de
Vougeot. But today 1t is one of the cou ntry's
smaller wine regions - with fe wer vines, for
exam ple, than the Nahe The reputation of
its wines has needed a recovery period
A lull arou nd the turn of the millennium
has been followed by an iniect1on offresh
ideas and enthusiasm, not only from a new
generation but also in those at the helm
ofsome ofthe most venerable traditional
estates. The greatest improvements have
been in dry Rieslings and Spatburgu nders,
the varieties to which the region is almost
exclusively devoted . And wines of great
prec1s1on and purity are being made not iust
by the region's many VDP members but also
o
THE RHEINGAU
1 377,00
0
Kmy
i
1p1<m
..
..
.
0
5..
..
.
1
\N
r
• Lorch Notable wme commune
- Vineyards
� Area mapped at lareer scale
on page shown
Not• that for entirely practical j
rea.ona, the orientation of
thl• map la not due north.
Ri!desheimer
Aue
I>
by the likes of Breuer and Carl Ehrh ardt of
Rudeshe1m and Eva Fricke of Lorch
The broad stretch of south -fa c ing hillside
mapped here 1s sheltered to the north by
the Ta unus range and warmed to the south
by refl ection from the Rhine, here running
from east to west. It has obvious advantages
for vine-growing. The river, more than half a
mile wide and a throb�lng highway for slow
strings ofenormous barges, also promotes
the mists that in particularly prop1t1ous
years encourage botryt1s as the grapes
ripen . Decidedly mixed soils include various
forms of slate and quartzite as well as m arl s .
At the weste rn end of the Rheingau the
south-fac ing Rudeshe1mer Berg Schlossberg,
by far the Rheingau's steepest slope, drops
almost sheer to the river, formerly in
prec1p1tous terraces, now bulldozed into
more seemly slopes At their best (which 1s
not always in the hottest years, since the
drainage 1s too good at times), these wines
are fu ll offruit and strength and yet delicate
in nuance Georg Breuer, Leitz, and Wegeler
ASSMANNSHAUSEN TO WALLUF
are the outstanding names here. A fe rry
from Rudeshe1m crosses to Bingen at the
mouth of the River Nahe
The Rheingau's white wine output 1s even
more dominated by Riesling than the Mosel's,
but today 12% of Rheingau vineyards are
planted with Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir).
Historically, Assmannsh&lser Spatburgunder,
produced by the Hess1sche Staatswel nguter
Assmannshausen (state wtne domain), was
Germany's only red wine of international
renown. Today, Chat Sauvage, August
Kesseler, Weingut Krone, and Robert Komg
also have a reputation for well-structured,
often barr1que-aged Spatburgunder
predominantly grown on slate.
Going dry
Although the super-sweet Beerenauslesen
and Trockenbeerenauslesen fe tch the
highest prices, well ove r 80% of wines
produced in the Rheingau today are dry,
iust as they were in the early 20th century.
They supply such historic r1vers1de hotels,
The map above shows which part of th1s venerable stretch
of the vineyards sloping down to the broad, busy Rhine 1s
mapped in detail below. Alas, there is no room to hlghhght the
vineyards around Lorch, to the west, whose reputation has
been stead ily growing, or Hochhelm, to the east .
1n
Jfmen Aue
••
I6000
0
..
'.'.:
91-
---.,.
..
.
..
.
1_
___,_-11 "'
�6
1
2
1
..
..
.

fam ous fo r their tables, as the Schwan at
Oest rich and Zurn Krug at Eltville
Ge1 senhelm, iust upstream from
RUdeshe1m, 1s home to a world- renowned
te&chmg and research centre for oenology
.and, es pecially, v1t1c u lture . Just upriver and
uphil l fro m here 1s Schloss Johannisberg,
Jlt&ndmg proud above a great apron of vines,
0er
ru
nat mg the landscape between
1hisenhe1m and Winkel. It 1s credited with
il't
t
1ntrod uct1on m the 18th century of late
ftj.r>Jestlng to make nobly rotten, sweet
nt'Jtles. The m agnificent Schloss Vo llrad s,
@ove Winkel, has 800 years of history
'to the east and upstream there follows a
string of villages that may not match
'Fludeshe1m as tourist magnets, but can
boast some particularly re putable vineyard s.
Mitt&l he1m (St Nikolaus), Oestr1ch (with its
Lenchen and Doosberg sites), Hattenhe1m
(Wtsselbrunnen), and Erbac h (Marcobrunn)
yleld the most celebrated wines from a
predominantly marl-based soil. The
Spreitzer brothers and b1odynam1c Peter
Jakob Kuhn are their foremost protagonists.
The boundaries of Hattenheim stretch
back into the hills to include the high ridge of
the Steinberg This 80 acre (32ha) vineyard
was planted in the 12th century and walled by
ttie C1sterc1ans. Nearby, in a wooded hollow,
stands their monastery, the extraordinarily
well-preserved Kloster Eberbach (see p.11),
the sym bol ofGerman wine history. As well
as music fe stivals, a hotel, and a restaurant,
it houses a unique collection of ancient wines
in its cabinet, go ing bac k to 1706 Nowadays,
the wine 1s made 1n a thoroughly modern
winery by the Steinberg, which pioneered
screw-cap closures for fine German wine.
The beautiful Gothic church of K1edr1ch 1s
the next landmark, set back from the river
and 400ft (120 m) higher. Robert We il,
ma1or1ty-owned by Suntory and managed by
Robert's son Wilhelm, 1s the biggest estate
of the parish, and today makes many of the
Rheingau's most 1mpress1ve sweet wines,
with its Trockenbeerenauslesen highly sought
after and priced accord ingly. Rauenthal, the
last ofthe hill villages and the furthest from
the river, 1s renowned for its complex flowery
and spicy Riesling, to many the greatest of the
Rheingau, with the estate of Georg Breuer
the foremost proponent.
Some vines are grown on the narrow Island between
Hattenhelm and Erbach, and they occupy the majority
of the slope between the water and the woods.
>IJ
•I•
Schloss Schonborn in Geisenhe1m, seat of
the von Schonborn fa mily, vme -growers fo r
27 generations since the 14th century
Hochheim
In the far east ofthe Rhemgau, separated from
the main stretch of vineyards mapped below
by the southern suburbs of sprawling
Wiesbaden and too fa r east to be mapped
here, the Rhemgau has an unexpected
outpost: Hochheim (which gave us the word
"hock") Its vineyards lie on gently sloping land
just north of the warming River Mam, isolated
in country that has no other vines The best
sites here are Domdechaney, K1rchenstuck,
and Holle, with deep soils and an unusually
warm mesoclimate Domdechant We rner and
Kunstler have shown that they can yield rich
wines with a thrilling fu ll-bodied earthiness
� Einzellage
Gemeinde (panshl boundary
- Exceptional vineyard
Excellent vineyard
Other vineyard
Woods
-20
0
-
Contour interval 20 metres
T
Weather station (WSl
RHEINGAU: GEISE HEIM
T
Latitude I Eleva tion of W
49.59" / 377ft (115m)
Average growing ' Cas on tempera ture at W
59.4" F (1s•ci
Ave rage annual rai nfall at W
21in (537 mm)
Hane l 111onlh rainfall al v S
October: 1 .9in (48 mm)
Principal it1cullural hazards
Fungal diseases
Principal gr.1pe \arielies
W: Ries ling; R: Spatburgu nder
•I•
E
..
.
'
'G

•
•
c
0
238
GERMANY
Rheinhessen
Mulle r-Thurgau and Oornfelder are,
respectively, the second and third most­
planted var1et1es, producing soft, mild wines
to appeal to the mass market and more
conse rvative palates. But the vogue fo r dry
wines has revived the popularity not Just of
Riesling but another classic variety, S1lvaner,
which has a particularly long and noble
history i n Rheinhessen and can be found
today in two distinct styles. Most Silvaner 1s
light, fre sh, reasonably fr uity wi ne for early
drinking - notably with the early-summer
white asparagus so beloved locally. At the
other end ofthe scale are powerful, dry
S1lvaners with high extract and longevity.
Their foremost protagonist 1s Michael
Te schke ofGau-Algeshe1m, whose estate
Today, Rheinhessen rivals the Pfalz as the
most progressive and innovative wine
region in Germany. With 65,700 ac res
(26,600 ha) shared among about 150
wine-growing villages, Rheinhessen 1s the
largest German wine-growing region, but that
1s far from its only claim to fa me It was once
best known for its generous production of
Liebfraumilch and N1ersteiner Gutes Domtal,
soft, inconseq uential wines based on the
prolific Muller-T hurgau, but these are now
distant memories, all but obliterated by the
exciting developments ofthe last two decades.
Twenty years ago, the vineyards were sti ll
dominated by Muller·Thurgau , boosted by
the crossings created by German vine
breeders to deliver large quant1t1es ofgrapes
with high sugar levels Classic, crisp Riesling
was taken seriously only by a few dedicated
1 331,00
0
The Heerkretz
and H6/lberg
vineyard• at
Siefershelm
are exceptional
.. HEINHESSEN WINE COUNTRY
Germany's most productive re1lon hu
more than 400 named aln&le-vlneyard
1ltH u well a• all the notable wine
communes marked In red here.
producers such as Gunderloch and Heyl zu
Herrnshe1m of the fam ous Rheinfront (as the
left bank ofthe Rhine north and south of
N1erste1n between Worms and Mainz 1s
known; mapped in detai l overleaf) and Klaus
and Hedwig Keller of FiOrshelm- Dahlsheim
(mapped in detai l oppos1te). ,Then they made
waves with their finest botryt1zed wines, but
the rising pred1lect1on of the German palate
for trocken (dry) wines did not go unnoticed
in growers' circles.
Rheinhessen still makes a higher proportion
of medium-dry to medium-sweet wine than
most other German regions, with the
exception ofthe Mosel and the N ahe, but most
of Rheinhessen's best new wave wines are dry
wh ites with both precision and substance,
mostly made from Riesling, now the region's
dominant grape.
is almost solely dedicated to the variety,
although Keller and Wagner-Stempel both
produce their own versions. Other vine
benefic1ar1es of the trend for trocken wines
are the three Pinots, Grauburgunder
(Pinot Gris), We1ssburgunder (Pinot Blanc),
and Spatburgunder (Pinot No1r). These, it
1s agreed, are far more SU1table
accompaniments to the improving local
cuisine than the waning Kerner and
Portug1eser.
Ambition and determination
It is not simply better grape varieties that
have propelled Rheinhessen so fast from
supplier of mild mouthwas h into the
avant-garde of the German wine revolution.
It has been large ly thanks to the emergence
around the turn of the century of a new
generation of winemakers with quite
remarkable ambition and determination.
Well-trained, highly motivated, and enviably
widely travelled, they have demonstrated
that not Just the steep vineyards right on
the Rhine, but the dull, undulating, fe rtile,
mixed-far ming cou ntry in the hinterland can
produce wines of thrilling integrity and
qual ity. They are concentrated in the south 1 n
the area mapped here known as Wo nnegau .
Many of these younger winemakers belong to
organizations such as Message in a Bottle,
Rheinhessen Five, Vinovatlon, and
Max1me Herkunft Rhe1nhessen, an
• Eicb.
-
�
assoc1at1on founded in 2017 by 70
-·
growers whose aim 1s to provide
-cim
m:
-
'
consumers with a clear definition of
o ./,,(' •
the quality structure of Rhemhessen
�
wi nes. Although not all of them are
members of the VDP, they follow the VDP
assoc1at1on's quality pyram id, classifying their
wines as Gutswein (estate wine), Ortswein
Landesgrenze (state bourdaryl
• �ll'Nl.'ln Notable wine ol"rr•une
Land over 2<Xi metres
CB!] Area mapped at I.trier die
onpageshown

Fretten heim
I In 2018, the Kellers set a
new VDP auction record
for Splltburgund•r
from a current
vin tage with the
price of€762.20
each for 392
bottles of2015
Morstem
Felix.
Bil CIJ[ RPHD
\
\�
WO NNEGAU
\
'
/1
,'
l
This small area has go ne from a dull
backwater in far ming country to the
most extraord inary concentration of
wine and vine craftsmanship, thanks
to a younger generation led by Keller
and Wittmann.
(named for the village where 1t was grown), or
Lagenwein (from the best ind1v1dual sites).
It can be rightfully claimed that the
remarkable rise of the Wonnegau had much
to do with the handover oftheir fam ilies'
estates to Philipp Wittmann and Klaus Peter
f(eller, but they were not alone m their quest
.fer excellence. Ifthey put the formerly
l)bscure wine villages of Westhofen and
FJ0rs he1m-Dahlshe1m on the map, they were
;iomed in the revolution by contemporaries m
:()ther Wonnegau vi llages. It says something
.tx>ut the unassuming character ofthese
't'itlag
e
s that so many of them are called
"-heim" : simply, "home"
Dtttelsheim owes its arrival to Stefan
Winter; Siefershe1m, fa r to the west, to
Daniel Wagner-Stempel; Hohen-Sulzen
to Oliver Spanier of BattenfeldSpanier;
Bechtheim to Jochen Dreissigacker. In many
cases they are not so much trallblazing as
111 11
l>
-·
1
I
recovering h1stor1c sites, for the vine has been
cultivated in Rheinhessen since Roman times.
Charlemagne's uncle presented vineyards 1n
Nierstein to the diocese of Wurzburg in 742 .
Ty pically, these new wave winemakers are
returning to trad 1t1onal winemaki ng methods,
including - most obviously low yields and
ambient, rather than added cultured yeasts.
The resu lt 1s wines that are more intense but
reveal their aromas r�ther more slowly than
the German norm
And their efforts are not just limited to
Riesling, S1lvaner, Scheurebe (Keller's Is
excellent), and Spatburgu nder. Knew1tz at
Appenhe1m has carved out a reputation
for Chardonnay, JUSt as Weedenborn of
Monzernheim has done for its range of
Sauv1gnon B l ancs. And, as 1fthe otherwise
dec1dely unspectacular village of Florshe1m­
Dahlshe1m had not already ac hieved enough
fa me thanks to KP Ke ller, 1t is now home to
RHEINHESSEN • GU•MANY
.M!l§l
l!fl
l
-
-
Gunler1blum
Kmy
Molo
o
O
!
ii.
fmzellap
Land�enze (state bounderyl
Kreis (rural district} boundary
Exceptional vineyard
Excellent vineyard
other vineyard
Woods
Contour Interval 25 metres
111 0.00
0
1
1
11<m
11V.
iMolo
o
Germany's most respected producer of
sparkling wrne, Sekthaus Raum land
For centuries, Worms was one ofthe great
Rhineland cities, seat of the fa mous diet
(assembly) of1521 that excom municated
Martin Luther, translator of the Bible into
German. Its wal led L1ebfrauenstift­
K1rchenstuck vineyard around the local
church, the L1ebfrauenkirche, has the
doubtfu l d1stmct1on of having christened
Liebfrau milch, the rock on which qual ity
German wine so nearly foundered Three
growers are now making decent wine from
this vineyard, of which Gutzler's Grosses
Gewachs 1s probably the most serious
The Rhelnfront revival
In the distant past, the town of N1erstein was
fam ous for its wonderfully luscious, fragrant
wines from such 1llustr1ous vineyards as
H1pp1ng, Brudersberg, and Pettenthal, but in
•••
0
T
f
T

f
•
..
.
c
o
0
<
240
the 1970s the name was sullied by its
assoc1at1on with the bloat ed Grosslage
N1erste1ner Gutes Domtal, a wine from
anywhere except Nierstein.
After a prolonged period of mediocrity,
the Rheinfront has been retu rned to its
former glory by a handful of perfectionist
growers. They have not just revived the
heritage of botrytized sweet wines but have
also added some of the country's most
exceptional Grosse Gewachse (dry wines
from great sites) to its armoury The
ub1qu1tous Klaus Peter Keller, Kuhling-Gillot,
St. Antony, and Schatzel all make
outstanding wines from some of the finest
parcels of Nierstein's Pettenthal and Hipping
vineyards.
Not far south of Mainz hes the village of
Nackenhe1m. The most fa mous stretch of
vineyard between Nackenheim and N1erstein
1s the Roter Hang ("red slope"), the unique
terro1r of wh1ch yields particularly spicy
Riesling with filigree fr uit The sand and
mudstone top layer ofth1s site, permeated
by streaks of limestone, owes its red colour
to iron compounds (hematite) formed under
the subtropical conditions that prevai led in
this area 280 million years ago.
The capacity of the soil here to retain heat
1s s1m1lar to that of slate and, together with
the steep grad ient of the south-fac ing site, 1s
responsible fo r the exceptionally fa vou rable
m1croclimate of the Roter Hang.
Wein vom Roten Hang 1s an alliance of
growers determined to uphold the special
character of th1s site, which probably finds
no better expression than in the wines of
Gunderloch and Kuhhng-G1llot
At the northern extreme of Rheinhessen,
the town of Bingen, fac ing Rudeshe1m in the
Rheingau (see map on p. 236) across the Rhine,
hu excellent R1eslin& vineyards on the steep
1lopes of its flrst-growth Scharlachberg.
I•
El
l
�BEJ.IG Emzellage
Gemeinde (parish) boundary
- Exceptional vineyard
- Excellent vineyard
c:=J Other vineyard
Woods
- 100-
Contour interval 10 metres
NIEll
l
STEIN AND OPPENHEIM
These are the two moat Important wine
centrea on the Rhelnfront, althou1h they
are rivalled by Nackenhelm and lta Roter
Han1 (see photo1raph above)
The fa mous red ttetl"'th oflt/:l.
Ckl
ll
lhe
lm's
Roter Hang, in th• JMn, mkh:Jl(rp.-t of the
Rothenberg vin eyard tJmt Mil:#' l'l'I0.'1• than
doubled during the mid- tc> /lt#e40th-century
Flurbereinigung proa.u (land f'flto rms) that
re -landscaped many G•rmsn vin eya rds •
Mainz

Pfalz
Th• Pfalz is Germany's second-lar1est
wine r91lon: a long stretch of vi neyards
north of Alsace, under the lee of the
German continuation of the Vose•• - th•
Haardt Mountai ns. Like Alsace, 1t 1s the
sunniest and driest part of1ts country
Almond blossom in early March as well as
citrus orchards are obvious signs of an
almost Mediterranean climate.
Starting at an impressive gateway, the
Weintor, hardly a stone's throw north of the
French border, the Deutsche Weinstrasse,
the most fa mous of all German Wine routes,
Winds its way through a sea of vines via the
cobbled streets of chocolate-box, flower­
bedecked villages and towns that al m ost
certai nly host more wine fe stivals than any
other wine region in the world On the last
Sunday of August, the entire 53- mile (85- km)
stretch of road between Schwe1gen in the
south and Bockenhe1m in the north - virtually
the fu ll length ofthe Pfalz map - 1s closed to
traffic so that revellers may en1oy the food
and Wines of the region to the fu ll
In the 1960s and 1970s, the Pfalz was
associated pr1mar1ly with inexpensive,
unexciting Wine, much of 1t made by re liable,
but very rare ly exc iting co-operatives.
A handful of venerable estates in the
M1ttelhaardt, the trad1t1onal heartland ofthe
Pfalz mapped on p.242, provided admirable
exceptions during this period of med1ocr1ty.
But their monopoly on quality 1s long gone now
that the Pfal z has so firmly established itself
as a hotbed of innovation and accomplishment.
Although in 2017 more than 120 var1et1es
were permitted for wine production in the
regi on, Riesling 1s once more king. With
14,580 acres (5,900ha) - one quarter of its
total vineyard area - the Pfalz has more
Riesling than any other region in the world.
Well over a third of production 1s red wine,
making Dornfelder, with its almost 7,400
acres (3,000 ha), the second most-planted
variety, although 1t is not as popular as 1t
once was. Muller-Thurgau and Portug1eser,
respectively white and red favo urites when
quantity ruled over qual ity, are still
important but are gradually losing ground.
The three Pinots (We1ssburgu nder,
Grau burgunder, and Spatburgu nder), with
and without oak but invariably dry, are
regarded as ideal food companions and
as such are becoming ever more popular.
And thanks to ever wa rmer summers,
Chardonnay and even Cabernet Sauv1gnon
can now be ripened in Pfalz vineyards.
Two bottles in every three of Pfalz wine are
dryish; trocken, halbtrockt!Jn, or fe mherb. And
ifexciting wines throbbing withfr uit used to
bethe preserve ofthe M1ttelhaardt, they can
now be found throughout the region. The
main impetu s for this change came fro m
areas at the southern and northern end of
the region that were undist1ngu1shed until
the m1d-1980s.
Southern spafk
In the south, the Sudpfalz, villages such as
B1rkwe1ler, S1ebeldingeri , and Schwe1gen
were known for their solid, reliable wines for
everyday consumption, but that was not
enough to satisfy the ambition of young
wine-growers such as Hans1org Rebholz
or Karl- H einz We hrheim. They had been
inspired by the ideas of H ans-Gunter
Schwarz, a visionary oenolog1st at Neustadt,
whose groundbreaking concept of non­
intervent1onlst wlnemaking was to be the
single most important infl uence on German
winemaking for decades to come. In 1991,
!14
1 "41,00
0
QUtMANY
241
Km
�!-
---- --
-.
..-
-
,.
•o
______
�
Jl""'
"''"'-
t
\N
f
International boundary
Landesgrenze (state boundary)
•Iur>i
Notable wine commune
Land over 30
0
metres
[MU Area mapped at larger scale
on page shown
PFALZ WINE COUNTRY
The M1ttelhaardt, mapped on p 242,
1s but a very small proportion of the
sprawling Pfalz, where summers of
late have been warmer than ever.
Rebholz and Wehrheim co-founded Funf
Freunde (five fr iends), an informal alliance
of enterprising producers designed to
encourage dialogue and a fr uitful exchange of
experiences. This 1mtiative managed to change
the reputation ofthe southern Pfalz from
sleepy Wine backwater to progressive hub of
German wine cvlture and provided 1nsp1rat1on
for a number of other grower co-operations
such as Sudpfalz Connexion, Wmechanges,
and, most recently, Generation Pfalz
Although Riesling has a firm place m this
southern stretch of the region only 1ust north
of the Fre nch border, 1t 1s the producers'
proficiency with the Pmot varieties that 1s
most 1mpress1ve We1ssburgunder, which as
Pmot Blanc m neighbouring Alsace 1s regarded
as a workhorse variety, 1s treated with
considerable respect by the top growers of
the Sudpfalz Boris Kranz with his llbeshe1mer
..
0
E'
E
T

•
I
•
(:
c
o
D
'
242
GERMANY · PFALZ
+
N
THE
MITTELHAARDT
The traditional
heartland of wlne­
growlng In Pfalz, with
most of Its great
vineyards between
Wachenhelm and
Deldeshelm
1 "8,250
Km 1---
-
..
..
..,
,.
..
..
..
.._
__..
..,
_
_..
.
Km
M1i.
.
o
1/2
JW.L
E1nzellage
Gemelnde (pansh)
boundary
- Exceptional
vineyard
Excellent vineyard
c=J Other vineyard
� Woods
·20
0
-
Contour interval
20 metres
Bod Durkheim
-=,-.\.----
14
Kalm1t and Dr Wehrheim with its B1rkwe1ler
Mandelberg regu larly set the bench mark,
making rich wines with real character.
Grauburgunder is handled with equal
reverence, if sometimes with a bit more oak,
and the Pinot- relat1ve Chardonnay can shine,
too, as Bernhard Koch's Hainfelder Letten
Grande Reserve or Rebholz' Chardonnay "R"
have been proving fo r years.
The estates of Friedrich Becker, Bernhart
and Julg in Schweigen make fine
Spatburgunder (Pinot No1r), although their
top vineyards - Heydenre1ch, St Paul,
Kam merberg, Radhng, and Sonnenberg -
lie iust across the French border in Alsace,
north of the town of W1ssembourg.
Gewu rztram iner has al most become a rarity
here, but one that 1s still worth seeking out
The Mittelhaardt
In the Mitte lhaardt, R1eshng is still the chief
medium for expressing terro1r. Here it can
reach a succulent, honeyed richness and body,
balanced with thr1lhng ac1d1ty - even when it 1s
d ry. Historically, three fa mous producers -
Burkhn-Wolf, von Bassermann-Jordan, and
von Buhl, or the three Bs - dommated this
kernel of the Pfalz The latter two went
through a lean period in the 1990s but have
ral lied round since their acq u1s1t1on by a local
business magnate who invested substantial
sums in innovation and highly talented
winemakers The new owner also bought the
venerable Dr Deinhard estate and renamed 1t
von Winning, as 1t was known when all three
estates still belonged to the fa mous Jordan
wine dynasty (before an inheritance split in
1848). With all three re united under single
ownership, they are nevertheless working
completely independently and pursuing very
different goals. Von Buhl meanwhile enlisted
the services of Mathieu Kauffmann, formerly
chef de cave at Champagne Bolhnger, who 1s
focusing on bone-dry Rieshng and premium
sparkling wine. IfBassermann-Jordan remains
most true to the tradition of pure Rieshng
interpretations, von Winning, since 2008
under the d1rect1on ofStephan Attmann, has
taken a more controversial route by making
often obviously oak-aged R1eshngs, reflecting
his years ofworking in Burg undy. All three
estates have their cellars in De1deshelm, not
only one of the prettiest towns ofthe Pfalz,
but also a restaurant hotspot
Almost al l the vineyards of Deideshe1m
are ran ked as Grosse Lagen (exceptional
vineyard s) m the classification of the
premium wine-growers association VDP
(see p.225), capable of prod ucing wi nes with
a very particu lar sort ofs ucculence The
best sites are Hohenmorgen, Mau shohle,
Leinhohle, Kaikofen, K1eselberg, and
Grainhubel To the 1mmed1ate 5outh,
R uppertsberg 1s one ofthe fir-.;t villages of
the M1ttel haardt, its best sites (Ga1sb6hl
•I

Linsenbusch, Re1terpfad, Spiess) are all on
moderate slopes, well-exposed and with a
complex soi l structure, which yields Riesling
wines with a fine m1neral 1ty.
Just north of De1deshe1m, Forst was the
most highly rated Pfalz village in the Bavarian
government's vineyard classification of 1828
and has a reputation for producing the
region's most elegant wine. Locals draw
paral lels with the tall, graceful spire of the
village church The top vineyards of Forst he
on wate r-retentive clay, while black basalt
above the village provides warm, dark soil, rich
m potassium, someti mes quarried and spread
on other vineyards, notably in De1deshe1m
The Jesu1tengarten, Forst's most fa mous
CEN TRAL UNTERHAARDT
Thanks to the winemaking energy evident here,
wines from the area around Laumershe1m are
Mvalling those of the Mittelhurdt.
v ineyard , and the equally fine K1rchenstuck, he
Just behind the church Freundstuck (largely
von Buhl's) and Pechstem are 1n the same
class, as 1s the Ungeheuer Georg Mosbacher
1s an outstanding Forst grower
The village of Wachenhe1m, where Burklin­
Wolf, one ofGermany's most dedicated
pioneers of b1odynam1c vineyard cult1vat1on, is
based, marks the end of the h1stor1c kernel of
the M1ttelhaardt with a cluster offa mous small
vineyards. Bohhg, Rechbachel, and Gerumpel
are the first growths. Richness 1s not a
marked character1st1c of Wachenheim; its
great qualities are poise and purity offlavour.
Bad Durkheim is the biggest wine commune
1n Germany, with 2,000 vineyard acres
•
(N)-
1
laumershe 1
QID!!!
!IEl!G
Einzellage
Gemeinde (parish)
boundary
ll
ll
lm
Exceptional
vineyard
Excellent vineyard
c=J other vineyard
Woods
-_lO
O=-
Contour interval
20 metres
M.t.O
1/2
1Milo
I•
PFALZ • Cll .. MANY
243
''" tradrt1onal fa t;ad• of80rklln · Wolf'• wine
1 "' and wine •hop on th• well·tred
de
n
W'mstrasse In Delde•h•lm 11 1omewhat at odd•
wrth the blodynam/c trailblazing for which thi•
producer Is known.
(800ha). Riesling 1s a minority variety except
in the best sites of the terraced M1chelsberg
and S pielberg. The Pfefflngen estate, which
makes fine Riesling but also exceptional
Scheurebe, is the outstanding grower based
1n Bad Durkheim, although most of its
holdings are in Ungstein One of Germany's
most re liable co-ops, the Vier Jahresze 1ten,
has been a dependable Bad Durkheim
prod ucer of bargains fo r decades. The Bad
Durkheimer Wu rstmarkt 1s to wine what the
Munich Oktoberfest is to beer - the biggest
wine fe stival in the world, with ove r half
a million visitors during two weekends in
mid·September Another obvious to urist
attraction 1s what 1s said to be the world's
largest wine cask, in which there 1s a
restau rant that can house 400 diners on
two fl oors
The Unterhaardt
North of Bad Durkheim 1s the Unterhaardt,
where for many years only the southern
outpost of Ungstein, with top sites Weilberg
and Herren berg, had much of a reputation
for quality But 1n the late 1970s the Knipser
brothers at Laumersheim, Just south ofthe
border with Rheinhessen, and Bernd Ph1hpp1
of Koehler-Ruprecht at Kallstadt started to
produce exc1t1ng dry Rieslings and barr1que­
aged Spatburgu nders Others observed
their pioneering efforts cautiously and it
would take until the 1990s before younger
growers such as Gaul of Grunstadt, Philipp
Kuhn of Laumershe1m, and Neiss of
Kindenhe1m followed them along the path
to exciting modern German wine.
More recently they have been JOined in
the Unterhaardt bythe estates of Rings of
Freinshe1m and Zelt, also of Laumershe1m,
which makes this otherwise unremarkable
village something of a mecca for wine
enthusiasts. Riesling and Spatburgunder
from premium sites such as Kirschgarten
and Steinbuckel in Lau mersheim, Burgweg
in Grosskarlbach, Mandelpfad in Dirmstein,
Schwarzes Kre uz 1n Freinsheim, and
Saumage n and Steinacker in Kal l stadt
may be the most obvious stars of this part
of northern Pfalz, but climate change has
created more than a niche for highly
ac complished efforts with Sauvignon Blanc,
Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and
even Syrah .
Even orange wines, the result of extended
skin contact in white winemaking, have been
assayed by many of Pfal z's most re putable
wine prod ucers . There 1s nothing stuffy
about this region today.
,.

•
•
•
"
244
GERMANY
Baden and Wlirttembe rg
Germany has been profiting more from
climate change than any other wine
country, and its southernmost region,
Baden, most of all. Two-thirds of 1ts
vineyards skirt the Black Forest, with the
bulkofthem in a narrow 80-mile (130km)
st rip between the forest and the River
Rhine. The best of them lie either on
privileged southern slopes in the forest
massif or on the Kaiserstuhl The "e mperor's
chair" is mapped in detail opposite and
comprises the remai ns of an extinct volcano
which form an island of h1gh ground 1n the
middle ofthe Rhine Val ley. The area ar-0uF1d
the Ka1serstuhl benefits from the highest
annual average temperatures in Germany.
The chmate is well-suited to Pinots of
various hues which regularly prod uce
fu ll-bodied, dry, often barrique-aged wines
to match savoury food.
Reds ascendant
Only the Ahr makes a higher proportion of
red wine than Baden and Wurttemberg,
where 41 % and 69%, respectively, of their
total vineyard areas are planted with red
wine var1et1es Almost half of Germany's
considerable total of Spatburgunder is
grown in Baden, and with a share of 35% the
variety occupies as much of the region's
vineyards as the three next most-planted
varieties - Muller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder,
and We 1ssburgu nder - put together
The second halfofthe last century saw
Badischer W1 nzerkeller at Bre1sach, the
fr ontier town on the Rhine between
Frei burg and Alsace, is still Baden's
principal marketer and a major supplier
ofdiscounters and supermarkets.
From the 1980s, with German
demand fo r dry wines growing rapidly,
independent prod ucers were looking to
neighbouring France for inspirat ion,
although in1t1ally, lack ofexperience too
often re sulted in clumsy, overextracted,
over- oaked blockbusters made from
overripe grapes. Avant-garde estates such
as Fritz Keller, Dr Heger, and Bercher in
Ka1aer1tuhl, Bernhard Huber in the
Brelaaau , Andreas Laible in Durbach, and
Salwey of Oberrotwe1I mastered subtlety
quicker than others and, using Burgu ndian
techniques and clones, now manage to turn
•I•
Hessische Bergstrasse 1s Germany 's smallest
wine region (s ee p. 223 fo r its full extent). Baden
and Wiir ttemberg between them have 60 tim es
as much vineyard•
11, 163,00
0
- • - I nternational boundary
----
Landesgrenze (state boundary)
Vineyard ams
- Hessrsche Bergstrasse
- Wurt
te
mberg
Baden
ORTENAU Subregion
• Durbach Notable wme commune
T Weather stabon (WS)
out elegant Pinot No1rs and Chardonnays
that are scarcely put to shame by
Burgundian originals.
The Ka1serstuhl and Tu niberg, another hill to
the south, fu rnish one-third of all Baden's wine.
Whtie the dominant soil type 1s loess, most of
the finest red Spatburgunders and fu ll-bodied
white Grauburgunders grow on volcanic sorls
N
_,
<(
..
..
a.
S�wenningen
and are pos1t1vely stiffwith flavour. In the small
town of End1ngen, the Schnelder fa mily turn
out pure Chard onnays and poli shed Prnot
Norrs at agreeably modest prices. Immediately
east of here 1s the Breisgau, where Julian
Huber of Malterd 1ngen. the late Bernhard's
son, continues his fat her's Spitbu rgu nder
legacy, albeit with slightly fresher wines

KAISEftlTUHL AND aAEISQAU
The heartland of Baden ftn• wi ne prod uction Is
the source ofsome of Germany's most complex
and most fu ll- bodied rend 1trons of Plnots N o 1 r,
Gris, and Blanc Alsace Is
JUSt across the Rhine
from here.
'94
Bad Kroz 1nger
To the north, just
south of the Black Forest spa
of Baden-Baden, the Ortenau is Baden's
second most important pocket ofvmeyards .
Riesling 1s the flagship white wine grape here
and, grown on granite, can produce refi ned,
crystalline wines that reflect this. Andreas
Laible and Schloss Neuweier are the leading
protago nists, while demand for Enderle &
BADEN: MUNDINGEN
Latitude / Elevation ofWS 48° / 659ft (201 m)
Avgrowing season temp at WS 60.1°F (15.6 °CJ
Average annual ra infall at WS 34.Sin (884mm)
Harvest monlh rainfall at WS
September: 3 .1in (79mm)
Pnnc1 pal v1ti ultu rnl hazard
Spring frost, hail
Prin ipal grap� varie ties
R: Spatburgunder; W: Muller·Thurgau ,
Grauburgu nder, Weissburgunder, Gutedcl
+
Moll's cult
Pmot No1rs invariably
outstrips the modest supply.
North agai n, the d1vers1ty of soils of the
Kra1chgau encourages a wider range of
varieties, but Riesling 1s popular and
Auxerro1s a local spec1al1ty Around the
h1stor1c university town of Heidelberg, the
Badische Bergstrasse 1s best known for the
various Pmots of the Seeger estate
Far to the south, m the Markgraflerland,
the corner of Germany between Fre1burg
and Basel, the fa vourite grape has long been
Gutedel, the local name for the Chasselas
dominant across the border m Switzerland.
It tends to make refresh mg, 1f reticent, wine,
although the Jasp1s 104 Gutedel from the
1rrepress1ble Hanspeter Ziere1sen of Efringen ­
K1rchen has established a serious following.
Chard onnay 1s also very much at home here,
but Spatburgunder is even more successful,
as eloquently demonstrated by Z1ere1sen
and rival wmemakmg brothers Martin and
Fritz Wassmer of Bad Krozmge n -Schlatt.
Wme from the southernmost area of al l,
around Meersburg on the Bodensee (or Lake
Constance), is known as Seeweln ("lake
wme" ) . Off-dry, pink-tinted Weissherbst of
Spatburgunder 1s an uncomplicated local
;•
QUIMANY
241
1111,100
Km�
I
l
l
AKm
I
I
I
hlolo
o
I
Mol.O
y,
I
Ill
IPW!i E1nzellage
lnterna!Jonal boundary
- Exceptional vineyard
Excellent vineyard
c=J Other vineyard
Woods
Contour interval 50 metres
special ity Aufr1cht of
Meersbu rg-Stetten is the
d1str1ct's leader, thanks to some
particularly fine Pinots. The Markgraf
von Baden 1s one of Germany's rare Muller­
Thurgau enthusiasts at his vast Schloss
Salem estate on the Bodensee
Wilrttemberg
Wurttemberg, extensive though its vineyards
are (it is Germ any's fourth-largest wine
region), 1s st ill much better known in Germany
than abroad, but the staggeri ng progress
that top producers have made in recent years
with the region's flagship variety Lemberger
was bound to attract 1nternat1onal attention
In terms of sheer wme qual ity, a Fellbacher
Lam mler from such accomplished Lemberger
specialists as Aldinger and Ramer
Schna1tman n can compete with the best
German Spatbu rgu nders, and the finest
crus of Dautel, Haidle, Graf Ne1pperg, and
Wachtstetter are not far behind, 1fat al l.
With 20% of the region's vineyards, the
dark Trol linger (Sch1ava) grape, a reliable
source of simple reds drunk mostly by locals,
1s still the most planted variety, although
Riesling, capable of far more exc iting wines,
has almost caught up. Wurttemberg can also
make some very respectable Spatburgu nder,
as evinced by Bernhard Ellwanger and
Jurgen Ellwanger Wurttem berg is more
continental than Baden, so sites have to
be chosen with care.
•I
•I•
D
[
E
r

246
GERMANY
Franken
Franken is out of the mainstream of
German wine, both geographically and
by dint of its quite separate traditions.
Politically 1t lies m the otherwise beer­
centric former kingdom of Bavaria, which
gives its state cellars a regal grandeur fo und
nowhere else m Germany. Fran ken is unusual
in that 1t makes greater wines from Silvaner
than Riesling and has long special ized m
dry wmes.
The name Steinwein ("stone wme") was
once loosely used for all Fran ken wine. Stem
1s, m fa ct, the name of the most fa mous
vineyard of the city of Wurzburg, Fran ken's
wme capital on the Mam
It has a reputation for making incred ibly
long- lived wines, and a Stem wme from the
so called vintage of the millennium of 1 540
was st ill (Just) drinkable in the 1960s The
last re maining bottle can be viewed behind
heavily protected glass in the treasure
chamber of the Burge rsp1tal Wurzburg.
Such wines were Beerenauslesen at least,
thus immensely sweet . Franken makes few
such rarities today; indeed, less than 10% of
prod uction 1s anything other than trocken
or halbtrocken. Most Franken wi nes are
instantly recognizable, 1f d ifficult to store m a
conventional wme rac k, m their d1stmct1ve
aquat flasks known as the Bocksbeutel.
Fran ken's climate 1s decidedly continental,
but climate change has largely solved the
region's problem of too short a growing
season . Indeed, 1996 was the last vintage
that saw any underr1pe Riesling - and
S1lvaner is now fr equently as concentrated
and alcoholic as some of the more substantial
wines from the Austrian Wac.hau
But even in Fran ken, unfortunately,
Muller-Thurgau was still the most- planted
variety 1n 2017 - only JUSt, however, as the area
planted with 1t continues to shrink, despite the
efforts of Frank & Frei, an alhance ofgrowers
whose aim 1s to present the variety as a
usefully crisp, dry thirst-que nc her
Silvaner, the traditional lynchpm of the
region, JS increasingly popular with growers,
ever more mindful of the potential greatness
of th1s variety 1n Franken, especially on
clay- limestone Before the ad vent of chmate
change, Silvaner's tendency to bud early
restricted 1t to particularly fa voured sites,
but 1t can now be much more widely planted
and can make great, food friendly wines
without excessive ac 1d 1ty, able to express
local differences and to age we ll.
The aromatic Bacchus 1s regarded as
Fran ken's answer to Sauv1gnon Blanc
Rieslaner, the late ripening S1lvaner x
Riesling crossing, produces some fine sweet
wines in Franken. The red grape crossings
Domina and Dornfelder are no longer as
popular with growers as they once were.
Spatburgu nder and Riesling may account
The Bavarian state cellars lie baneath the
magnmcently spra wling Wurzburg Res1denz,
whose ornate baroque ceilings were prunted by
Tlepolo and, m the case ofthlS In the garden
room, local artist Johannes Zick.
for only about 5% ofthe region's output
apiece, but the best examples can be
seriously 1mpress1ve.
The heart of Franken
The heart of wme-growmg Franken 1s m the
Mamdre1eck, following the fu ddled three­
cornered meandering ofthe Main from
Escherndorfand Nordheim upstream of
Wurzburg, south to Fr1ckenhausen, then
north again through the capital to include all
the next leg of the river and the outlying
district around Hammelburg. Escherndorf
stands out from these many villages for its
celebrated Lump vineyard, and producers as
talented as Horst Sauer and his neighbour
Rai ner Sauer What distinguishes all these
scattered south-fac ing hillsides 1s the peculiar
hmestone rich in fossil shells known m German
as Muschelkal k. Its origins are not so different
from the Kimmer1dgian clay of Chabhs, or
indeed of some ofSancerre's soils, and 1t 1s
res ponsible for some exceptionally racy,
elegant wines
Var 1at1ons m topsoil can result m slight
diffe rences in the character1st1cs expressed
by the wines from specific sites. The fa mous
Wurzburger Stein is marked by its high fossil
content, while the lnnere Le1ste 1s overlaid by
relatively deep humus. In the neighbouring
town of Randersacker, topsoil m the
renowned Teufelskeller vineyard 1s made up
of a unique mixture of 1ron, copper, and zmc
particles. Next door, the limestone of Pfulben
hes beneath a combination of Ke uper clay and
marl. These sites are all recogn ized as
responsible for some of the finest wines of
the region in the hands of estates such as
the Burgersp1tal, Juhussp1tal, Schmitt's
Kinder, and Weingut am Stem, Ludwig Knoll
This last, with its rather cumbersome
name, also prod uces another, diffe rent
Stem from a site of the same name
downstream from Wurzburg, 1n the village of
Stette n near Karlstadt
Any wme lover v1s1tmg Franken should see
Wurzburg, one of the great c1t1es of the vine,
with three magnificent estate cellars 1n its
heart belonging re spectively to the Bavarian
state (Staatlicher Hofkeller), a church charity
(the recently revived Juhussp1tal), and a civic
charity (the Burgerspital). The city 1s also
home to the Knolls' exceptional 66-acre
(27-ha) We lngut am Stem estate mentioned
above. The Staathcher Hofkeller hes under
the gorgeous Res1denz of the former
prince bishops, whose ce1hngs (see above) are
reason enough to v1s1t the city There 1s al o
the noble Mar1enburg Cast le on its hill of

Frankfuct ,
0M1�helboch
FRANKEN WINE COUNTRY
Vine-growing 1s concentrated on the banks of
the meandering Main, with the best sites being
steep, wel l-protected, south-fac ing, and
benefiting from sunlight reflected off the
river's surface .
vines, the great baroq ue river bridge, and the
bustli ng Weinstuben (wine bars) belonging to
these ancient foundations, whereall their wines
can be enjoyed with suitably savoury food.
Mainv1ereck, downstream to the west, has
lighter loam based on sandston e . It has much
less land under vine, but ancient steep
vineyard s such as the Homburger Kallmuth,
which with its quasi-Med iterranean flora, 1s
warm enough to produce extraord inary,
ageworthy wines.
Red on red
The Mainviereck is also Franken's red wine
area, where exceptionally arid terrac es of
red sandstone can produce Spatburgunders
and Fruhburgunders (an early-ripening strai n
of Pinot Noir) of real interest Germany's red
wine magician Rudolf Furst and rising star
Benedikt Baltes are based here .
In the Steigerwald in the east, the vine
looks almost a stranger in the setting of
The Bavarian state cellars, the Staatliche
Hofkeller, deep below the WOrzburg Res1denz,
have recently been modernized and include an
atmospheric showcase fo r Fr anken's d1stinct1ve
special bottle shape, the Bocksbeutel
·'
KmO
Mi
iot
0
170
0
,00
0
lO
lOKm
!OMl!o
o
arable fields with forests of magnificent
oaks crowning its sudden hills. The seriously
steep slopes are of gy psum and marl, which
makes its mark in particularly strongly
flavoured wines Some of the finest wines
FRANKEN • QIRMANY
247
Lande51
1r
11nze (state boundary)
M \J\DRllftl
l
Subrt!8JOn
Notable wme commune
Landover40
0
metrP•
The Stein vineyard
at Wurzburg gave
its name to the
region's win es.
come from the parishes of lphofen (home
of Hans W1rschmg and Johann Ruck).
Rodelsee (Paul Weltner), Sulzfe ld (Zehnthof
Luckert), and the doll's-house princedom
and wine estate of Castell
0
'
E
T
F
G.

THE REST
OF EUR OPE Denbies in Surrey is England's biggest single -site
wine estate, and set its cap at wine tourists long
before this became common.

England and Wales
Climate chan1e has played straight Into
th• hands of thou 1rowln1 vines In the
lrltlsh Isles. England's wine ·growers, and
their increasing number of hard - nosed
Investors, now have such confidence that in
2019 nearly 7,200 acres (2,900ha) ofvineyard
were scattered widely over the southern half
ofthe country. The greatest concentration is
rn the southeast, in the counties of Kent, East
1.nd West Sussex, Hampshire, and Surrey. A
large number of smaller vineyards (there are
well over 600 1n total, many run with real
professionalism) are also found across the
south to the West Country, along the Thames
J.nd Severn valleys, and in East Angila, the
driest part of England, as well as in southern
Wales and even in rainy Ireland.
The average holding 1s 9.27 acres (375 ha),
and many of even the larger ones depend
heavily on tourism for sales. More than
145 wineries now process a crop whose size
can fl uctuate dramatically, thanks to the
vlc1ss1tudes of the Engl ish chmate, but
ave rages over 6 million bottles per year. The
largest prod ucer 1s Chapel Down, which takes
grapes fr om its own and others' vineyards,
although sparkling pioneer Nyetimber has
the biggest area of own vines 635 acres
(257 ha) in West Sussex, Kent, and on chalk in
Hampshire Investors in English wine include
at least two major champagne firms.
About 80% of English wine 1s white, with
most ofthe rest rose. The Champagne
var1et1es Chardonnay, Pinot No1r, and Pinet
Meunier al ready account for 61% of the total
area, a proportion expected to rise to 75%
as new vineyards are planted and older ones
pulled out. In 2018, the date ofthe last
vineyard census, the most- planted var1et1es,
in declining order, were Chardonnay, Pinot
Noir, Bacc hus, Pinot Meunier, Seyval Blanc,
Re1chensteiner, Rondo, Solar1s, and M uller­
Thurgau. A few hght red wines and an
increasing number of good roses (especially
sparkhng) are being made from Pinots No1r
and Meunier, with other reds and pinks
being made from the red -flesh ed Rondo
and the Pinots
Across the Channel
Bottle-fe rmented sparkling wines - most of
the best based on the Champagne grapes -
are England's strongest SUit, the quality of
the best matching cham pagne selhng at the
same price. There is litt le difference in the
chalk soil between Champagne and England's
Downs, where some of the finest Enghsh
sparkhng wines are grown - although others
of equal quality are grown on greensand and
other soils Summers have been getting
hotter. Chaptahzation was once ro utine but
in this century natural sugar levels have
0
Manche ter
oSheffield
""
\
0 Loughborough
-,i
i
e\\ ond
o
Leicester
oPeterborough
risen, and in the ripest years many wines
need no added sucar at all Warmer growing
seasons, better vitlcultural and w1nemaking
skllls, more experience, and better
eq uipment mean that many wineries can
make very respectable wines almost every
year, characterized by notably refreshing
ac 1 d1ty. Imports can (easily) be cheaper, but
the wines being made in England and Wales
today, especially those that sparkle, have
their own uniquely crisp, bright-fr uited, hvely
style They can - and often should - improve
with time spent in bottle.
ENGLAND: EAST MALLI G "
La titude / Elevation of WS
51 .29• / 105ft (32m)
Ave rage growing season temperature al WS
57,3•F (14.1 "C)
Ave rage annual rai nfall at W
26in (648 mm)
Harvest month rainfall at W
October: 2 .9in (74mm)
Prin 1pal v1ticultural hazard�
Poor fruit set, high acids in cooler years,
low yields
Principal grape varieties
W: Chardonnay, Bacchus, Seyval Blanc,
Reichensteiner; R : Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier,
Rondo
King's Lynn
0
East
Dereham
1 3.225.00
0
51>
lQO
Km
25
sbMolo
o
•Sl
lARPl
lAM
Notable Vineyard
T Weather stabon (WS)
The pres tigious
champagne house
Ta ittinger expects
to make its first
commercial English
spark/mg wmes here
fro m 2020 onwards.
,.
2-41
c
o
E
T
F
G'

Switzerland
Even now, in a more open and curious
wine world than ever before, Swiss wine
remains little-known beyond its national
borders. Only about 1% 1s exported, and
tou rists tend to stick to a few staples that
are far from being the best Hardly anyone
knows that over 250 different wine grapes
are grown 1n this smal l country.
The Swiss are enthusiastic wine drinkers
and import about 65% of their needs -
including a great deal of Burgundy's best.
Making any sort of wine in a country with
Switzerland's prices 1s inevitably expensive
The land of milk and money will never be able
to produce bargai ns for the mass market .
Producers know this, and concentrate more
and more on making wines with a story.
This should not be too difficult since every
vineyard - al most every grape - 1s tended
as and by an 1ndlv1dual. The country's 36,443
acres (14,748 ha) of vi neyards (such prec 1s1on
1s very Swiss) are d1v1ded among thousands
of fu ll· and part -time growers, whose
impeccable and often spectacu lar plots
are atte ntively gardened, rather than
com mercially far med.
By scrupulous care of their vines, and
making use of 1rr1gatlon, es pec ially in the
drier parts of the Val a1s, the Swiss in the
past regu larly ac hieved yields as high as
Germany'1 By producing such big quant1t1es,
addln1 1upr when necessary, they made
growing grapes financially viable in spite
of the steep slopes and the equally steep
costs In the winery, the softening malolactic
conversion (unlike in Germany or Austria)
was common compensation for any natural
excess tartness. However, since the
introduction ofAOCs (Appellation d'Origine
Controlees, see panel opposite) yields have
been limited, and malolactic conversion for
white wines 1s no longer ro utine.
SwlH Cr•p••
The most- planted vine variety by far 1s
the pale Chasselas, a decidedly neutral
grape - In fac t, it is usually an eating grape
elsewhere. However, 1t manages to ac hieve
real personality and even provide a bit of
terroir expression in the most favo ured sites
of western, French-speaking Switzerland
(see p.252). In the German-speaking east of
the country, M uller-Thurgau, or1g1nally bred
from Riesli ng and Madeleine Royale by the
Swiss Dr Muller in the canton of Thurgau , 1s
the most important white wine grape
Elsewhere 1t 1s st ill erroneously called
R1es hng- Sylvaner or Riesling x Sylvaner,
mostly because those in other cantons are
reluctant to have the name Thurgau on their
wine labels.
But the cou ntry's most interesting and
original wines come from her long hst of
h 1stor1c vine specialities: in the Val a1s, Arvine
Both ofEurope's great wme rivers rise here
in the St-Gotthard Massif, the Rhine flowing
north towards Germany and the Rh6ne west
towards Fr ance
(or Petite Arvine), Amigne, Humagne Blanc,
Pa1en (or Heida), and Reze for whites, and
Cornahn (or Rouge du Pays) and Humagne
Rouge for reds; in east Switzerland,
Completer and the old German vines
Rauschhng and Elbling; and in Ticino, in the
south ofthe country, red Bondola. Ofthese,
Arvine, Completer, and the red Cornahn can
make some very fine wine indeed. Any chance
to taste them is worth taking.
Also being planted 1s a series of new Swiss
crossi ngs of pairs of popular vinifera var1et1es,
notably Gamaret, Garano1r, Diohno1r, and
Carmino1r for red wine. Some growers,
particularly in the east of the country, have
been planting d1sease-res1stant hybrids such
as Regent and Solar1s.
Sky-high vines
Switzerland has some of the highest
vineyards in Europe and Is home to the first
vineyards on two ofthe world's great wine
rivers, the Rhine and the Rhone, which both
rise, remarkably close to one another, high in
the St- Gotthard Mass1f (see above)
More than four-fifths ofSwiss wine comes
from Fre nc h - speaking Switzerland. Valats 1s
the most productive canton, followed by Vaud
and then, some way behind, Geneva They
are considered in deta.I on p.252 Swiss Wine
Promotion, the n at ional marketing body,
of'lk1ally d1stinau1shes stx wine regions i n

111ll
-
-
trr iatio i;il bout'Clary
Dt>utsrh h\WIZ
Tro � La�
Vaud
Vala"
u 11eve
Ttc no
I2s2J
,/
�
Land above 20
00
metre-;
Area mapped at arger
or page shown
.
..
..
..
..
--. ..
..
..
..
O Ziirich
It RI( 11\1 1
fl
l
l
Mh'
L
'
.
St Gallen
0
Herlsau 0
Appenzell
0
ft/11 1 f�I
•
""\N
,/!Qeuchatel
---
�,
�l llll\llL
Luzern �
�o
Sta ns
V1 rwal..l<to llttr ,.
..
0 Schwy>:
OO� V lll
JYv:lilj
e
li
ii&i
,,.,.
,/ co
,/
011
L�TRr ARV L
E T RllO�E
252
FRANCE
/,\ .'-j�nd
ITALIA
order of importance: Vala1s, Vaud, German
Switzerland (Deutschschwe1z), Geneva, T1cmo,
and the Three Lakes (Tro1s Lacs). The main
vineyard areas within those regions are shown
on the map.
German Switzerland includes 17 wme­
producmg cantons, and grows about 17% of
the country's wine, mostly m isolated,
well-exposed sites able to ripen Pmot No1r
(Blauburgu nder) which was introduced from
France in the 17th century. The quality of th1s
Prnot continues to improve, the best coming
from the Aargau, Zurich, Schaffhausen, and
Thurgau cantons, and Bundner Herrschaft in
Grau bunden (alias Gr1sons) where the warm
autumn wind, the Fo hn, helps the grapes ripen.
Switzerland's only assoc1at1on of amb1t1ous
young winemakers, Junge Schwe1z - Neue
Winzer, was created m the cantons of Aargau,
Zurich, Thurgau, and Graubunden, where
some of the best Swiss Pmot Gris, Pinot Blanc,
�d Chardonnay 1s to be found . Producers
Sl.ICh as Gantenbein, Donatsch, and Studach
make exceptional wines The old variety
Riuschling. now disappeared from its
birthplace in the Rheingau, survives exclusively
around Lake Zu rich. In fa voured Graubunden,
the white speciality ls the ancient rarity
Completer, whrch makes complex, structured
wrnes wrth substantial acidity and alcohol.
Italian-speaking Ticlno produces virtually
nothing but red wine, mainly the Merlot
St-Bernard
introduced 1n 1906 fro m Bordeaux after
phylloxera al l but destroyed the region's vines.
The best Merlots, nurtured on the sunniest
slopes and encouraged by the mild
Medrterranean climate and the country's
highest rainfal l, can achieve Po merol-like
richness Merlot has almost completely
supplanted the old local red Bondola. To make
up for the canton's lack of wh1te wine grapes,
Merlot Bianco has been made from red Merlot
grapes since 1986, initiated by G1ald1 in
Mendr1 sio. Today, almost a quarter ofT1cino's
Merlot is vinified as white wine.
In northwest Switzerland, vineyards on the
south-fac ing slopes above the Thre
e
Lakes
(Neuchatel, Biel, and Murten) are devoted to
delicate Chasselas, often enlivened by slight
spritz, and Pinot No1r, of which CE1I de Perd r1x
1s the fa mous rose version 1n Neuchatel Pinot
No1r also makes fine trad1t1onal -method
sparkl ing wine here. Some Neuchatel
producers release a non filtre (unfiltered)
Chasselas, a welcome var1at1on on the usual
rec ipe, on the third Wednesday in January.
Wines very s1m1lar to NeuchAtel's are grown
north of B1elersee to the 1mmed1ate northeast
of Neuchatel , with some fine Pinot No1r commg
from small plots above the villages ofSchafls,
L1gerz, and Twann. Wines grown north of
Murtensee are more like those of the Vaud
canton to the south, with some excellent
Chasselas reflecting the various terro1rs,
I•
ITALIA
I 675,00
0
Km �1---'""P..
..,.
..
_.
:ie
__:ip
_
__
_.
1l
.._
..,.
..
.
5P
__6f!
._,
Km
Molo.0
10
ii
30
40MolH
especially 1n the molasse of Vully. Vully 1s also
famous for its Gewurztram1ner, called
Tram mer here, and its Fre1samer, under its
synonym Fre1burger to recall the local capital
city of Fre 1burg/Fr1 bourg.
•I
AOCS - AS CLEAR AS MUD
There arc vi neya rds in each ofthe 26cantons
of witzerland. The first AOC ( ppellat1on
d'O rigine ont rolee) was created in the canton
of Geneva in 1988. B 2018, there were 62
diffe ren t AOC 111 witzerland, at lea tone in
each canton, with the ex ept1onofthe tiny
Appenzell Innerrhoden They are subdivided
i n cantonal, regio nal, and local AOC • with as
many a 2:l for Ge neva' 3 ,482 acre (l,409 ha)
of vines, for example. Federalism requ1reb that
each can t on has its 0\\�1 OC regulation , with
its own quite complex specifications. In 2017,
a t o t al of l68 grape ariet1es were officially
authorizedforAOCwine a many a 85 111
Zlinch, 66 in Vaud, and 57 in Valais. uch
diversity cloud reg 1 u n al < nd national 1dent1t}
This complex situation may be impltfied fro m
2022 when 'witzerland 1 due to fall mto !me
withtheE· '
\OPand IGPs stem or doe it
help Uia t there .ire both 70cl and 75cl bo llles
on the "'i:. market.
I•
0
T
r
c

•
-
.
252
SWITZERLAND
Valais, Vaud, and Geneva
The steep sides ofthe Valais, the valley
which the young River Rh6ne carved
through the Alps, are fo llowed by gentler
slopes In Vaud, where the waters broaden
into Lac Leman (Lake Geneva) . An almost
continuous south-fac ing band of vines hugs
the north bank of the river, then the lake.
The Valais 1s a hotbed (literally) of vinous
exper1mentat1on. In the high Vala1s, peculiarly
al pine conditions - brilliant sun and summer
drought - can make concentrated, super­
r1pe wines The average rainfall in S1on, a
maior wine centre, is less than two-thirds
that ofBordeaux; Vala1s growers have used
bisses, steep channels ofmountain water, to
1rr1gate their vines since the Middle Ages
The Rhone's first vines grow near Brig
historic var1et1es such as Lafnetscha,
H1mbertscha, Gwass (Goua1s Blanc), and Heida
(Savagnin Blanc, also called Pa1en). throwbacks
to the age before the S1mplon Tu nnel and its
railway transformed the Vala1s1an economy
at the begi nning of the 20th century Just
southwest of here are some of Europe's
highest vines at V1sperterminen, at 3,600ft
(1,100m) lying almost in the shadow of the
Matterhorn. Heida in particular ac hieves
splendid density and richness.
Large-scale wine prod uction begins
iust before S1erre (one ofthe driest places
in Switzerland) and continues as far
downstream as Mart1gny.
The 11,923 acres (4,825 ha) of vineyards in
the Vala1s are tended by as many as 22,000
growers, only about 500 of whom make wine
About a fifth of Val ais grapes are processed
by the dominant co-operative, Provins.
Fendant (as Chasselas is known here) is the
domi nant white, usually soft but deceptively
strong, while its red counterpart 1s Dole, a
medium weight blend dominated by Pinot
No1r, with Gamay Trad 1t1onal var1et1es such
as the cherry-scented Cornalin (or Rouge du
SWITZERLAND: 10
'f'
Latitude Eleva tJon ofWS
46.22' / 1,581ft (482m)
Average growmg '>Clibon temperature at W
58.7'F (14.9'C)
,·\\eral(c unnunl ra111fall at WS
241n (599 mm)
llarHf.I month rainfall at WS
S ptember: 1 .51n (38mm)
l'nm 1pal v1t1lultural hJ1,anl'
Spring froat
l'rt ll( IJlJI grdpt· VUfll' L ll''
R P1not Nolr; W Chass las
Pays) and rustic Humagne Rouge are
challenged not 1ust by Pinot Nolr and Gamay
but by spicy Syrah, which has travelled
re markably well upstream from its home in
the French Rhone Val ley
Local heroes
Of the 14 native grapes grown in the Vala1s,
Arvine (also known as Petite Arvine) 1s the
mostwidely successful. Its comb1nat1on of
nervy ac 1d1ty and considerable extract works
best in the arid climate between S1erre and
Mart1gny. Vala1s whites are in general
extremely potent, whether Johanmsberg
(Silvaner), Erm1tage (Marsanne), Malvo1s1e
(Pinot Gris; someti mes ffetr1. strong, sweet
wines trad 1t1onally from ra1sined grapes),
Chardonnay, Am1gne (a speciality of the
village of Vetroz), Humagne Blanc (not
related to Humagne Rouge), or Heida.
Raze 1s grown in S1erre, and aged high in
the Alps in old larch casks at Gr1mentz in
the Val d'Anniv1ers to produce the rare
G
"
�
ll F.NTREARVE
ET RHONE
,,.
Vin du Glacier: intense, sharp, and resiny, a
little like sherry or Jura's Vin Jau ne.
Vaud is the trad itional heart of Swiss
wine, where C1sterc1an monks introduced
viticulture from Burgundy more than 900
years ago.
The vineyards in Vaud are quite different
from Vala1s, their fruit not concentrated by
alpine sunshine but gently ripened by the
mild climate round the lake Although red
wine 1s gaining grou nd, 60% of vineyards are
devoted to a single white grape, Chasselas -
never specified on Vaud labels, which fa vour
geographical names. Chasselas originates
from around Lac Leman and used to be
called Fendant in Vaud until the Vala1sans
were granted the exclusive right to use this
synonym. Yields are generally relatively high,
but the best lakeside vineyards manage to
produce the world's most characterful
expre ssions ofth1s mild grape.
Chabla1s 1s the easternmost of Vaud's wine
regions and Chasselas can reach record
Lac Leman
,,.
..
.-
-
- - ------
FRANCE
AOC Grands Crus Dezaley and
Ca/amln have a long history of
proving that Chaue/aa can
expreu subtle terrolr
dlff'erenc.,.
-•-
lnternahonal boundary
-·· ·-
Canton boundary
CHABIAIS Wine subregion
AIGIJ! Notable wtne commune
-
Vineyards
00
0
Woods
Contour interval 20
0
metres
Weather station CWSl

ripeness l evel s around A1gl•, Ollon, and
Yvorne In Lavaux (encompassing the area
between Montreux at the eastern end of the
lake and Lausan ne) the vine-terraces 1nit1ally
bu1lt by the C1sterclans In the 11th century
on the north sho� are so beautifu l they
were recognized as a World H e ritage Site
ln 2007. V i n es luxuriate in direct sunshine,
glare reflected from the lake, and heat
radiated by the stony terraces, with two
spec ially designated Grands Crus, Calam 1n
�d Dezaley, enjoying the great est esteem
Calamin, all 40 clayey acres (16 ha) of 1t, Ires
wlthm the village of Epesses, while next door
the 136 ac res (54ha) of Dezaley, in the
commune ofPuidoux, have more limestone
Calam in 1s typically fl i nty, Dezaley smoky - but
these are fine d istinctions. Both are nectar
with a fried perch at a table beside the lake
The best Chasselas wines of the less
spectacular vineyards of La Cote, which
stretches in an arc from west ofLausanne to
the city ofGeneva, come from such villages
as Fe chy, Mont-sur-Rolle, and Morges. The
trad 1t1onal red ofLa Cote is Salvagnin, a blend
of Gamay and other reds such as Servagn in
(a local clone ofPinot) that is the Vaud's
answer to the Vala1s' D61e, though some fine
Merlot and Gamaret are e m erging. Plant
Robert 1s a local and ancient clone of Gamay
Geneva's vmeyards around the
southwestern end of the lake have
changed more than any m
Switze rland m recent years.
Gamay is now the prmc1pal
grape, havmg overtaken
Chasselas, and is followed
by Pmot Noir, Gamaret,
and Chardonnay.
There are three main vmeyard areas, the
largest being Mandement (Sat1gny is
Switzerland's biggest wine com mune), which
has the ripest and tastiest Chasselas The
vineyard s between the Arve and the Rhone
make rather mild wine, while the produce of
those between the Arve and the lake is
pretty dry and pallid. The co-operative Cave
de Geneve has recently switched from
making mainly everyday wmes to becom ing
the main am bassador of Geneva's
winemakmg renaissance
As m theVala1s, thepace 1s bemgsetbya
small group of amb1t1ous ind1v1duals who
1 450,00
0
KmO
10Km
Mot.0
------
..
..
..
,
Molo
o
Glacier de
Ts onfleuron
This medieval village Is home to the Vig ne a
Fa rinet vineyard, which at 0.0003998 acres
5embroncher
(0.0001618ha) is officially the world's smallest.
Sal/Ion Is a/so the birthplace ofrenowned
botanist and grape geneticist Jose Vouilla moz.
I•
"4
Drones have a sign ificant application m
vmeyard photography, especially when the
vmeyards are as dramatically sculpted as here
m the Va lats. Afternoon shadow can play an
important part m a subalpine landscape.
have shown that 1nnovat1on (planting Merlot
and Sau vignon Blanc, for example) can be
more reward ing than following local custom.
The picture-book village of Dardagny, for
instance, has adventurously planted
Scheurebe, Ke rner, and Findling as well as
its unusually mv1gorating Pmot Gris
,.
LAKE GENEVA AND THE RHONE
The map ofFrance on p.53 shows howthe River
Rhone flows through Valais and Lake Geneva
(Lac Leman) before turning towards the
Mediterranean, with vineyards planted on its
banks practically all the Wa:J. Note how essential
a south-fac ing slope 1s in Switzerland, although
V1sp, as u sual , provides exceptions
D
T
E
T
f
o

254
Austria
Austria's array of intensely pure wines
have their own distinct, finely etched
personality. There 1s something of the
fre shness ofthe Rhine 1n them, more perhaps
of the fieriness and high flavour of the Dan ube
(Donau in German), but almost nothing in
common with Austria's wines before the late
1980s, when the country underwent vinous
revolution - all of 1t benign.
A more recent revolution has been in
labelling. In close consultation with wine
producers, Austrian wine author1t1es have
been draw ing up new rules, most notably
identifying particularly successful
combinations of places and grapes as a
DAC (D1str1ctus Austriae Controllatus) -
see the panel below Wines in those areas
that do not flt within the DAC framework use
the regional appellation N1ederosterre1ch
(Lower Austria), Ste1ermark (Styria), or
Wien (Vienna).
The fa r east of the country around Vienna,
where the Alps descend to the great
Pan nonian Plain that reaches across Hungary,
1s where most Austrian wine 1s made, in hugely
varied conditions. There 1s slate, sand, clay,
gneiss, loam, and fe rtile loess, parched fields
and perpetually green ones, crag
gy
prec1p1ces
above the Dan ube, and the tranquil shallow
mere known as the Neus1edler See
Austria's fiercely continental climate and
re latively modest average yields tend to
result i n wines more potent than Germany's
Tw o-thirds of the wines are white. The
signature local Groner Veltliner grape
predominates and 1s grown on more than
30% of the cou ntry's total of 115,520 acres
(46,750ha) of vineyard, but both Welschr1esling
and Riesling are also important Of red wine
varieties, the most locally significant are the
ju1c1ly i ntense Zweigelt, expressive and
refreshing Blaufran k1sch, and velvety Sankt
Lau rent, but they are not gai ning ground
Gruner Veltliner, "Gruner", or "GruVe", can
be thi rst-quenchingly fresh and fruity, with
plenty of ac1d 1ty and a flavour that
reve rberates on a wave length somewhere
between grapefruit and dill (typically in the
vast Weinv1ertel) In the right hands and places
- e specially upriver of Vienna - 1t can also be a
fu ll-bodied, intrigu i ngly spicy, perhaps peppery
white and well worth age ing.
The northeast
On the next four pages some of Austria's
finest terrai n for Gruner Ve ltliner and
Riesling is exam ined in detai l, followed by a
look at the geographically quite different
Burge nland . But a new generation of
producers 1s demonstrating that fine wine
can be made in all ofthe cou ntry's wine
regions, including the most extensive and
prolific, the Weinviertel north of Vienna.
Its ro lling, wooded cou ntrys ide, with its
baroq ue churches and pretty villages, 1s the
very essence of Middle Europe The hills of
Slovakia form a barrier between it and the
warming infl uence of the Pan nonian Plai n to
the southeast, so that its wines are Austria's
freshest and lightest. Some of the best reds
come from Mailberg's warming combination
ofloess and sand in a wel l-sheltered val ley,
and from around the village of Rosch1tz west
of here, where al l Weinv1ertel soil types
- loam, loess, Manhartsberg granite, and
limestone - are to be found. Weinv1ertel has
taken on a new lease of life with such young
overachievers as Ebn er- Ebenauer in
Poysdorf, Herbert Zillinger in Ebenthal, and
the Gruber fam ily In Rosch1tz.
Although mixed far ming predominates
in Traisental and Wagram, both of them
produce seriously fine Groner Ve lthner
and the unrelated, red - skinned Roter
Ve ltliner Markus Huber of Tra1 sental,
Bernhard Ott of Fe uersbrunn, and Karl
Fritsch of Oberstockstall in Wagram are
three of the country's most-ad mired
w i ne-growers. On the outskirts of Vienna,
but still technically in Wagram, are the
DACS - AUSTRIA'S CONTROLLED APPELLATIONS
Au•l rra ho' been hu'y developing il counterpart
to Fra n cl''' Appcllntion'> d ' Origine Con lrolec,
with 1 5 0AC (D1stnctus Austrmc Conlrollat us)
rcgwns agreed hy Moy 2020, as i,Jwwn on !he
mnp oppo ile uncl IJstecl here Strid co nd1t1on&
arc lrnd down for euc h DA , 1nclud111g wh 1li1
grap vm 1etic'> t hey apply to U'> the pu1 e>t
exprct.010m of thc-.c rcg1om or <,ubrcgion� as
h&tccl here D1;cus�ions ovN DAC� for � .ig ram ,
Tlwrmcnrciil o n , nnd Hu'>I we· re -till oniiorng ·"
this \t].i, IH' nt to pre-.
.
Kremstal G1 uner Ve llliner, Hie<,ling
Kamptal Gruner Ve ltlmer, Riesling
Tralsontal Gruner Vc ltlinc r, Ric.I mg
Wolnvlortol G1 uner Vcltl11wr
Wiener Gomlschter Satz whil e field blcndi,
Carnuntum 131nutranki,ch und Z\\e1gelt for 1 �d ,
Ch.1nlo1111a y, Grlinc1 \ elthne r, nnd !'mot Blnnl fo1 " l11lt•<,
Neusledlersoe Z\\tJgdt, orZv.e1gel L-do111mJlc<.I bl«nd,
Lelthaberg P111ot BJ.u1l C h .irdonn.iy. 1'.eti lnu gl'r
Gru1wr \'l'ILhntr (or .i bkwl of Lhc,e) UI .1ufr. l nkH,d 1
monastic cellars and infl uential national
wine school of Klosterneuburg.
Easy -drinking reds are the speciality of
Carnuntum, south of the Dan ube Here,
too, the focus 1s on Gruner Veltliner, with
Gottlesbrunn, St1xneus1edl, and Hoflein
Carnuntum's best-situated villages, and
Prellenkirchen and Sp1tzerberg hotspots
for new, improved Blaufran k1sch - although
in Carnuntum in general Zweigelt and
Zwe 1gelt-based blends still dominate
prod uction. Elsewhere it can be fa tally
cold for vines in winter or dangerously dry
in summer. Muhr-van der N1epoort is
challenging Gerhard Markow1tsch as
Carnuntum's star performer, with Johannes
Trapl fu rther west in hot pursuit.
No capital city 1s so inti mate with wine as
Vienna (or Wien), where 1,574 acres (637ha)
of vineyards still hold their ground right up
to the tramlines within the heart of the
res1dent1al districts and surge up the side of
the surrounding hills into the Vienna woods
For many years Viennese growers, al l 155 of
them, focused mainly on supplying relatively
simple young wines for Heur1gen - local inns
run by wine prod ucers - such as Beethoven's
former lodgings at Mayer am Pfarrplatz
However, since the tu rn ofthe century there
has been a move to prod uce more serious
(if not more seductive) wine, notably
Gem1schter Satz, made from at least three
diffe rent var1et1es grown in one Vienna
vineyard and v1nifled together with no
perceptible oak. The new prominence given to
these h1stor1c wines has inspired celebration
of s1m1lar blends made in other regions.
Top Viennese sites include Nussberg on
the south bank of the Donau / Danube,
B1samberg on the north shore, and Mauer
and Maurer Berg on the boundary with the
Thermenregion (famous for its hot spri ngs),
the most southerly and hottest wine region
of N1ederosterre1ch, or Lower Austria. The
Thermenregion 1s sheltered to the north
and west by mountai ns and the Vienna woods,
but 1s wide open to Pan nonian infl uence, not
Rosalla 131aufr!ink" h or Zwe1gd t f'or re d' .iml o r. 111g,•
of red �arictJt� for ro>e>
Mlttelburgenland Hl.1 u(1 1 rnlo,c l1
Eisenberg l3l.1utr .u1kbl h
Vulkanland Stclermark <CP 1110111 ll xi opp rm/<'
Weststelermark <<'<' maw l<'XI oppo>lf<
Siidstelermark 'ee mam te>.t upprmi<'
Wachau up Lo 17 r{li anu \\ hit< 'and1< • dtp<11< hng
on the mtcizrny

un like Burgen land to the south and east.
't also has the Heurigen trad1t1on, without
nearly so many tourists. In red wine cou ntry
1n the south, growers are concentrating on
Ptnot No1r and Sankt Laurent, while in the
north there is new determination to research
and upgrade the local white wine grapes of
Gumpoldsk1rchen. the hvely Z1erfan dler and
the heavier Rotgipfler and Neuburger.
Southern Austria
Ste1ermark (Styr1a), away to the south, has
little in common with Austria'& northerly
wine regions but 1s today one ofthe
country's most dynamic For decades 1t has
prod uced exclusively dry wines, not unlike
those over the border in eastern Slovenia
(where some Austrian prod ucers such as
Alo1s Gross and Te ment now operate, too)
Ste 1ermark may have only 7% of the
country's vineyard s, and those widely
dispersed , but its reputation for intense,
piercing Sauv1gnon Blanc (sometimes oaked ,
but subtly nowadays), Chardonnay, and
We lschr1esling 1s unmatched within Austria.
Chardonnay, some of 1t travelling most
unusually under a local alias, Mor1llon, 1s
we ll entrenched here.
SOdsteiermark, where Sauvignon Blanc
has overtaken Welschr1esling as the
most-planted grape, hasthe greatest
concentration of respected producers,
names such as Gross, Lackner-Tinnacher,
Polz, Sattlerhof, Te ment, as well as energetic
newcomers such as Hannes Sabath1. And
then there are Wohlmuth and Harkamp on
the high schists of Sausal, which yield some
of Sudste1ermark's most elegant wines.
Tram mer 1s a special ity of the volcanic soils
of Kloch 1n Vulkanland Steiermark (known
until 201 6 as Sudostste1ermark), while pink
Schilcher made from the rare Blauer
Wildbacher grape is Weststeiermark's
of
f
ering to the wine-drinking world
Ste 1ermark, with its many energet ic young
growers, has decided upon a quas1-
Burgu nd1an pyram id system whereby DAC
Wines are labelled either by region, v1llage(s),
or vineyard . Ortswe1n may name a single
vil
l
age or a cluster of villages with the same
s.ol
l
type, such as schist-dominated Sausal ­
Kitzeck or limestone-free Gamhtz- Eckberg
At the top ofthe pyramid, Riedenwem bear
th e name of a single vineyard . Wines labelled,
forInstance, Gamlitzer Sauvignon Blanc or
Sausal Riesling are already common here, as
lat-he concept of single-vineyard wl nes. The
range ofpermitted va.r1et1es 1s much wider
than In most DACs.
A programme to agree on the boundaries
ofevery named vineyard, or Ried, in Austria
and, even more amblt1ously, to classify them,
has been underway fbr some time, Yo u will
forthe moment notice a lack ofboundaries
on the pages that fol low.
a'
Zwettl
Dr6sendorf0' • ..
._
_
,,,.
..
._
..
..
AUITllUA
2H
owa1dhofen
CZICHIA ,r·� ·-.
.-
,
OhennJ1 kmdorf .
e lkll · -·-·-.
..,/
• / I Alkcn-tdn L.__
ruli.:iu
•
liallR'l:lli •""'1'"
�ad Thaya
•
•
•
I ermh.wlllgarttJI
Horn
'WJl]{ hdQ (
0 1'1'ulhcr�
,
il
• fW<rl11t1
l'o)'(forf
•I•
•
l.A
A
CflhWg
Ml\tdb.rch. •
.
i
\n1cntlorf
Hollabrunn
Purkersdorf 0
Al
0 Ernstbrunn
SL
OVINS
KA
llPUILIKA
(SLOVAKIA)
�I JOJJtNlorf
.m duMJr<h
Wiener 0
Neustodl
,
Neun kirchen
�
I
l Gloggmt1 •
--�.
'
MAGYARORSZAG
(HUNGARY)
11225.00
0
KmO
25
SOKm
1-
-
----------..
..
..
------..
..-
---'
Nitderilsterrelch
- Wachau
M1i.
.
O
- Kremstal DAC
Kamptal DAC
- Tratsental DAC
Wagram
[=
=:I
Weinvtertel DAC
C:
::=:J
Thermenreglon
Carnuntum DAC
Wien
- Wiener Gemtschter
Satz OAC
•I
25..
..
.
International boundary
Province boundary
•ll
lml
iz Lead tng wine com mune
�
Area mapped at larger
�
scale on page shown
lurpnland
- Neustedlersee DAC
- Letthaberg DAC
- Rosalia DAC
Mtttelburgenland DAC
- Etsenberg DAC
Staitl'l
lle
rk
Vulkanland
stetermark DAC
SOdsteiermark DAC
Weststeiermark DAC

I
c
c
0
'
r
256
AUSTRIA
Wachau
If ever a region needed an atlas to tell Its
story, it is the Wachau, a complex meeting
point of northern and southern climates
and a rich mosaic of dift'erent soils and
rocks. Forty miles (65 km) before 1t reac hes
Vienna, the broad grey Dan ube broaches a
range of hills with vineyards planted up to
1,600ft (490 m) For a short stretch the
craggy north bank ofthe river, as steep as
the Mosel or Cote-Rot1e, is patchworked
with vines on ledges and outcrops along
narrow paths leading up from the river to
the crown ing woods. There are plots of deep
soil and others where a mere scratc hing
ftnds rock, patches with day-long sunlight
and others that always seem to be in shade.
This 1s the Wachau, Austria's most fa mous
wine region, even 1f, with only 3,335 acres
(1,350 ha), it constitutes JUSt 3% of the
country's vineyard .
What gives the (al most invariably dry, or
dryish, white) wines of the Wac hau their
d1stinct1on 1s the geography The heat of
Pan nonian summers spreads this far west,
heating the Danube Va lley as far as the
eastern end of the Wac hau. Grapes in
these low-yielding vineyards can attain
potential alcohol levels of 15% or more,
although prod ucers have been doing their
best to moderate them The wines are far
from flabby monsters; the vineyards are
cooled at night by refreshing northern
air from the woods above These steeply
terraced vineyards - each with their
varying m1croc limates depending on their
elevation, or1entat1on, expos1t1on, proximity
to trees and towns, and pos1t1on upriver -
may need 1rr1gat 1on in high summer (rai nfall
often fa lls below the pract ical natural
minimum of 20 1n/500 mm a year) but the
cool nights help, and the Dan ube acts as
a natural heat regu lator. The dry climate
CODE OF HONOUR
means that fu ng1c1des are rarely needed
in the Wachau.
Gruner Veltliner was the trad itional
Wac hau grape and makes its most v1v1d
wines here - at their best green -tinged ,
hlgh-sp1r1ted, almost peppery performances .
The best have been shown to age as long as,
and with results al m ost as Interesting as,
ftne wh ite burgu ndies. Gruner Veltliner can
thrive on the lower banks In loess and sand,
so growers have been ded1ca�lng their
highest and steepest sites, on less fe rtile
gneiss at the top ofthe hill, to Riesling, with
thrilling results. Top Wachau Rieslings can
have the steely cut of the Saar in a m outh­
ftlling structu re as fu ll as an Alsace Grand
Cru. Growers who have long made
superlative exam ples of both var1et1es
include H1rtzberger at Spitz, Prager at
Weissenk1rchen, F. X . Pichler at Oberlo1ben,
Emmerich Knoll, the M1ttelbac h fa mily of
Tegernseerhof winery and Leo Alzinger at
Unterloiben, Johann Schmelz at Joching, and
Rudi Pichler at Wosendorf, as well as the
huge and ad mirable Domane Wachau co-op
at Durnstein New oak does not feature here,
although there have been experiments
with botryt1zed grapes.
Cool northern influence 1s at its
strongest west of Spitz in the
Spitzer Graben side val ley,
where growers such as Peter
Veyder- Malberg, Martin
Muthenthaler, and Johann
Donabau m take fu ll advantage
of the mica schists and lower
temperat ures to make seriously elegant
wines. The Lo1bens (Unter- and Ober-)
enjoy a noticeably softer climate than even
We 1ssenk1rchen Durnstein, in whose castle
Richard the Lionheart was 1mpr1soned, 1s
the natu ral capital of the Wachau and the
scenic climax of the valley. The baroque
steeple, the ruined castle, the glittering
river, and the village's tilting vineyards
are 1rre s1st1bly romantic
For long, most ofthe Wachau's flne$t wines
were grown on the north bank of the river,
with JUSt Nikola1hof showtng what the south
ban k could do in the shape of firm b1odynamic
wines from around Mautern. But N1kolalhof
has been Joined by the likes of Georg
Fr1schengruber in Ruhrsdorf, fish breed�
F 1scher in Rossatz, and the PUR project rJ:IR
by Johannes Trapl of Carnuntum.
It 1s no surprise to learn that this 12•mile
(20-km) mosaic of vineyards has ac
c
um�
no fe wer than 150 different named Sites. �
Rieden, with the locals using a total of as.
many as 900 unofficial names for dtffe re�
subzones within a Ried. The boundaries oJ,
R1eden are still too debatable to map
precisely here, but 1f one must be singled
out, 1t 1s Achle1ten, to the northeast of
Weissenk1rchen. Gneiss and amph1bohte
combine to give its wines a mineral signatu�
that is a boon during blind wine tastings.
Members of the Vinea Wac hau private growers' association have l o sign up lo the Code Wa h , 1u, \\ hrr<.'h�
they agree not to buy in grapes and lo make the pures t , mo t expressive wi ne; p oss1b l Thi;>) aJ,o haw
their own stem ofdesignating wines: local taste codified, in fa t. Stcrnfedcr b a light wme up lo 115co
alcohol l'or earl drinking. Feder piel i · made from slighll riper grapc9, 11.5 12 5% ak ohol, good 111 1h
first five years . Wmes label! d Smarngd (after a local green lizard) can be scrlou.l fu ll- b od1l'd , with
al ohoI levels above often far above - 12 5 o; theyrepa 1x or more cars
'
agcmg. The' ,1 lego1 J<'' \\ Crc•
not affected by the creation of theWachau D (secpanel on p.254), \ h1ch lollo" , Slc1crm.irk'�
lhrcc·llcr y l m c�ee p.255) . Some p roducers, however particular ly ><>me ot you 11gc1 ge ncr.1t 1011 bllCh '"
P1 hler-K rutzler andPeter Ve der-M aIberg, who are already mJk111g '' ,l\ cs make one " 111c th,1t thr\ ln.:I
perfc tly exprcs>C8 each co mb1nalion of grap e , vineya rd, and v111t.1gc \\ 1l11out ncce,.,,1nl wor-,]uppln!-!
npcne�s for tl own bake P1c hler- Kr u t z l c r illu trnle one of the IC>lncllons of mcmbc1 ,hq1 ol \'1nt• t
Wac hau no more than 1 0% of members ' vJneyarch 1na) he rn anothct regi on, ,11
1
d that llltht bl' ,l t<'l(JOll
thut borders lh • Wa hau P1t hle r - K ruLlle r have holdmg<, 111 J: ri c h f\rutzlcr'> hom' !01111 o! hh1 11lw1 m
Bu1 ge 11land which di.,qualify lhe111 !rum mcmb r'>h 1p of V111<.'J \\ o.ch,n1
"

� DAC
�
Wine region
TIWJNTAL Ried (named vineyard)
Vineyards
Woods
Contour interval 100 metres
Most ofthe Wa chau's great wines come fr om
steep terraces fa cing the sun on the left bank of
the Danube, but especially refined wines are grown
in the cool Spitzer Graben side valley west ofSpitz.
Wiener •
Neustodt
t
(N}
WACHAU • AUSTlltlA
21T
Th• d/s tinctlv•
Nlkolaihof of
Maut•rn on
the right bank
pioneered
b1odynamlcs back
In the 1970s.
Unterberg rn ':,r
.4_5
)
'¢)•
•;.
1 62,50
0
Km0l-
--
--
-'-
--.
..,.
..
._
_;2
Km
M.lo
o
O
IMole
Autumnal vineyards above We issenkirchen,
and the lazy, and not always so blue, Danube
(Donau) that links the wme districts ofAustria,
Slovakia, Hungary, continental Croatia, Serbia,
Romania, and Bulgaria .
c
o
D
T
'
T

•
I
8
c
c
0
D
T
E
'
258
AUSTRIA
Kremstal and Kam ptal
If the Wachau made the running In Austria's
Initial late-20th-century assault on the
world's lovers of dry white wines, it did not
take lone for them to notice that the
neighbourlnc Kremstal and Kamptal made
wines of similar quality and style - and in
many cases charged less for them. The twi n
towns of Stein and Krems mark the eastern
end of the Wachau and the start of the very
similar but slightly less dramatic Kremstal .
The clay and limestone vineyards around here
can give particular density to both Riesli ng
and Gruner Ve ltliner The south-fac ing
Goldberg and Pfaffenberg vineyards, almost
in the Wachau, produce particularly subtle
wi ne, thanks to granite and gneiss
The Kremstal region extends both north and
south ofthe Danube, much of 1t on strangely
AUSTRIAN SEKT
Austria is now a serious produ er ofsparkling
wine andin2016drewup a protocol for three
tier of Osterreichischer Sekt g.U. (A u st ri an
Sekt with Protected De 1gnalion ofOrigin)
The ba ic grade, Klassik, can be made from
any one Au trian state by any method
with a minimum nine months ofagemg
on l ees, Reserve denote the
traditional method and at least 18
months ofagei ng, and Grand Reserve
1s for wines from a single village or
vineyard and with 30 month ' agei n g .
Kamptal 1s probably the most
important region forSekt
production, with Brundlmayer
a pioneer and now JOined by the
highly wmpetent Lo imer and
Schloss Gobclsburg and a l so
Mal at and Sepp Moser of Kremstal
soft loess - halfso1I, halfrock - source of
some fa mous Gruner Ve ltliners but also of
fu ll- bodied reds. Kremstal is an intermediate
zo ne between the sharp focus of the Wachau
and the greater variety of Kamptal Parts of
the region are high and steep enough to need
terracing, as in the Wachau . •
Among the talented producers, Malat and
Nigl make racy wh ites with every bit as much
concentration as many Wachau wines.
Salomon - Undhof, which has a related wine
operation in South Australia, 1s another
notable producer. Sepp Moser is an
outspoken fan of biodynam1c wines, while Ilse
Maier at Geyerhof on the south bank of the
Dan ube has followed organic principles for
more than 30 years, even ifshe 1s less radical
than her sister, Christine Saahs of Nikola1hof
1n the Wac hau. The Stadt Krems winery and
vineyards (owned by the town) are in the
hands of Fritz M1esbauer, who also makes the
wines of the massive baroque abbey St1ft
Gottwe1g The municipality's ancient holdings
include the 12th-century Wachtberg vineyard .
Kamptal, the productive buffer zone
between Kremstal and Weinviertel, 1s the
source of such outstanding wine that it has
been called the K2 of Austria (Wachau being
Mount Everest). Its south-facing vineyards,
with largely loess soil, are protected by
mou ntai ns from northern chill and benefit
from much the same climate and aspect as
Kremstal and Wachau to the west. Kamptal
1s about 1.8°F (1"C) warmer than the Wachau,
being lower, and produces similarly dense
Riesling and Gruner Veltliner, as well as a
slightly greater range of other var1et1es
The main river influence is not the broad,
east-flowing Dan ube but its south-flowing
tributary, the Kamp, which can bring cooler
temperatures at night and res ult 1n wines
that can often be livelier.
The most important wi ne centres are
Langenlo1s, which has been a wine town
for centuries; Zobing, fam ous fer its
Heihgenstein vineyard; and Gobelsburg,
where the baroque Schloss Gobelsburg
has been splendidly restored by Mtehael
Moosbrugger His partner at the Schloss
is Willi Brundlmayer, the star producer of
Langenlo1s - although Jurtsch1tsch, run by
Alwin Jurtsc h1tsch since 2009, 1s making
better wines than ever, while We ingut Hirsch
has been leading the way towards lighter,
more precise wines.
Another key player 1s Fred Lo1mer, not
least because of his dramatic "black box"
of a wi nery. Retu rning to trad1t1onal
methods in his underground cellars,
he has experimented with large oak
casks for fe rmentation. Lo1mer has
provided inspiration for a whole new
generation of dedicated younger
prod ucers. A particularly significant
proportion of top Kamptal producers -
Wllh Brundlmayer, Johannes H i rsch, Alwin
Jurtschitsc h, Fred Lo1mer, and many more
- are certified organic or b1odynam1c
An increasing number of producers in
Kam ptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wagram,
Vienna, and Carnuntum belong to the
6sterre1ch1sche Trad it1onswei nguter
(OTW), the Austrian answer to
Germany's elite VDP group (see p.225)
It was founded in 1992, with the aim of
class1fy1ng the outstanding vineyards
sites of the Dan ube region; by 2017,
61 vineyard sites had been classified
as an Erste Lage, or First Growth .
Ofserious note to wme tourists m Kamptal
1s the exceptional Lois1um Hotel In
Langenlols, devoted to wme via its wine
museum, "wme spa", and a restaurant with
a wme fist that has admirably preserved
Gruner Ve /timers going back to the 1930s.

�rH FlllERG
5
y�1<11'0"
KAMPTAL
feId
�THERN KREMSTAL AND SOUTHERN KAMPTAL
Themap on p.255 show• that we highlight only the most exciting
adctiona oftheval
l
eys ofKrems and Kam p here. Terrac ing and
INtny ofthe soils are very similar to those of the Wachau, but
vmeyard$ tend to be muc:h further fr om the Dan ube. Many of
h ftnest vmeyarda clu.ter round Langenlols.
1 73,50
0
KmO
Mo1o
o
0
KREMSTA L AND KAMPTAL • AUITlltlA
281
1Milo
W.ene< .
fl
j
Neu•ladt --1&-
)
� DAC
2Km
�
Wine region
GOIDll
l!l
lG
Ried (named vineyard)
c=J Vineyards
Woods
-50
0
Contour interval 100 metres
,., Weather station (WS)
AUSTRIA: KRE MS
Latitude/ Elevation ofWS
48.42° I 679ft (207m)
Average grow ing cason tempera ture at WS
58.S' F (14.7°C)
Average annual rainfall at WS
201n (516mm)
I larvest month r,u nfall at \V '
September: 1 .8on (46 mm)
Pr1 11ci pal vitic.ultural h,1zard'
Spring fro st, drought
Pnn 1pnl gr"pc varietle'
W: Gruner Velthner1 Riesling; R: Zweigelt
,.
#
,/
E
T

A
•
•
c
c
o
HO
AUSTRIA
Burge n land
Burpnland is the first Austrian province
to have been carved neatly Into the DACs
so beloved of Austrian wine officialdom. By
2018, there were five, with one or two more on
the horizon, mostly reds (see panel on p.254)
However, growers of the region's most
fa mous wines - white, very sweet, mostly
botryt1zed, and made with unusual regularity
- have chosen to operate independently of
the DAC system, opti ng to use the regional
Burge nland appellation for these wines
instead . The ge neral Burgenland appellation
is also used for the rest ofthe region's wines
that do not qual ify for one of the five DACs.
The flat and often sandy shores of Lake
Neus1edl - an extraordinary giant marshy pool
about 22 miles (36km) long and on average
only 3ft (1 m) deep - are the slightly improbable
source of Austria's greatest sweet wh ite
wi nes, and many of its increasingly impressive
red s. For a long time Burgen land seemed as
though 1t were from an earl ier era of Middle
Europe, the days ofthe Hapsburgs and the
Esterhazys when Austria and Hungary were
the same empire Indeed, it was only in 1921
that the c1t1zens of Burgenland, and their
11,860 acres (4,800 ha) of vineyard s, voted
to became part of the Austrian republic.
Donou
Wien
Wi ener •
Ne<Jsiodt
MAGYARORSZAG
11
By 1945, vineyards were a rarity between
the marshy ponds of the Seewinkel on the
east shore of the lake, around villages such
as lllm1tz and Apetlon, which then knew only
dirt roads and had no electr1c1ty But ofall
the Austrian provinces, Burgen land
benefited most from the improvement
grants avai lable when the country JOined the
EU in 1995. Now it grows about 32,370 acres
(13,100ha) of carefully tended vines - 4,940
acres (2,000 ha) of them in Seewinkel - and
1s home to hundreds of well-equipped, usually
immaculate cellars.
The country 1s so flat in the north and west
of the Neusledlersee DAC, and the lake so
surrounded by waist- high reeds, that views
of the water are few and far between. One
small 80ft (25m) rise is revered as a hill. This
may sound an unli kely descr1pt1on ofgreat
wine country. The secret is that elusive
shallow lake, enveloped by mist through its
long, warm autumns, encouraging so much
botryt1s, or noble rot, that bunch after
bunch of grapes look as though they have
been dipped in ash.
The late Alo1s Kracher al most single­
handedly put lllm1tz on the world wine map
with an extraordinary range of intensely
iw111.1x 11
lll l\l
·'
sweet, rich, even dramatic white wines (often
carefu lly designed blends, notably Chardonnay
and Welschriesling) His son Gerhard carries
the torch with aplomb Angerhof·Tsch1da is
another lllmitz superstar.
Burgenland grows a wider range of different
grapes than any other Austrian state, with
We1ssburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Neuburger,
Muskateller (small-berried Muscat), Muscat
Ottonel, and Samhng 88 (Scheurebe) all of
interest to white winemakers .
Red hot
Burgenland 1s Austria's red wine powerhouse.
This is Austria's hottest wine region, with
Mittelburgenland in particular wide open to
Pan nornan warmth, so red grapes (grown in a
landscape not too diss1m1lar to the Medoc's)
ripen reliably eac h year, yet morning mists
help keep their ac 1d1ty in balance. Led by
producers such as the Pan nobile group in
Gols (headed by Hansand Anita Nittnaus),
Roland Vehch of Mor1c in M1ttelburgenland,
and Uwe Schiefer, Hermann Krutzler (and
then his son Reinhold), and Wachter-Wiesler
in the south, red wines have become much
more subtle, less alcoholic, and less obviously
oaked than 1rnt1al offerings.
Burgenland's total area devoted to red
grapes overtook that for white var1et1es in
2009. The racy. iu1cy Blaufrank1sch 1s the most
popular and expressive variety, but Zwe1gelt,
t
International boundary
Province boundary
Pansh boundary
LEITl
lABERG
DAG
•I
llNl1!l
ll!
Uls
s
Ried (named vineyard)
c=i Vineyards
Woods
� Marsh
230
Contour interval 50 metres
NEUSllEDLIERIEE AND
Ll!ITHAIERQ
Most ofthe best wine made around the
shallow Neusledler See comes fro m th•
northern end, fu ll-bodied reds from the
northeast and the Lelthabel"I DAC; and
exceptional sweet whites from th• eastern
shore and Rust, the Le1thaber1 refu senik.

Sankt Laurent, Pinot No1r, and even Merlot
and Cabernet Sauv1gnon are also planted
The best Neus1edlersee red wines te nd to
come from (slightly) higher ground fu rther
a�y from the lake, around the village ofGols
1n the northeast , and, across the lake 1n the
we1t, from the limestone and schist soils of
what con stitutes a mountain around here, the
1,58Sft (484 m) Le 1thaberg. The Lelthaberg
OAC 1s arguably Austria's strictest and most
terro1r-drlven, and, rival led only by Eisenberg
DAC 1n Sudburge nland, is making Increasingly
rel\ned, te rro1r-driven, dist1nct1ve reds
exemplifted by the wines of B1rg1t Braunstein,
Pr1eler, and Kloster am Spitz. They have been
JOined by the likes of Markus Altenbu rger,
the Austro -Sparnsh couple L1chten berger­
Gonzli!ez, Leo So mmer, Franz Pasler (now
run by his son Michael), and b1odynamic
Schbnberger Prod ucers such as Pau l Achs,
Gernot Hemrich, Hans and Anita N1ttnaus,
Juris, and Umat hum have long been standard ­
bearers for other Neus1edlersee reds.
Home of Ausbruch
The most historically fa mous wine of
Burgenland comes from the photogenic
village ofRust in Neus1edlersee-Hugelland,
where Fe i ler-Artinger, Ernst Tr1ebaumer,
and He1d1 Schrock are the leading producers.
Rust opted out of the geologically
homogeneous Le1thaberg DAC so wines
from this particular village are sold simply
as Rust, with their Trockenbeerenauslesen
official ly described with the historic name
of Ruster Ausbruch. Rust growers have also
adopted Fu rmmt as their special ity grape
since 1t was a popular (minor) ingredient
in their sweet wines . Dry Furmint has been
emerging from Rust, with Michael Wenzel a
particu larly accomplished producer of both
dry and sweet wines.
The vineyards that slope east down to the
villages ofPurbach, Donnerskirchen, Rust,
and Morbisch are higher and fu rther from
the wat er than those on the east ofthe lake
and are slightly less prone to botryt1s.
Serious amounts of red wine are made here
as well as in the vineyards that stretch west
almost as far as Wiener Neustadt and south
past Mattersbu rg (see map on p.255).
Andi Kollwentz ofthe Rbmerhof estate in
Grosshoflein is considered Austria's best
all-rou nd cel lar- master.
The Rosalia DAC was created in 2018 to
f\1
1
the gap between the Leithaberg and
Mlttelburge nland DACs. Rosaliawas the ftrst
OAC to embrace rose as well as red wines,
the latter from Blaufrinkisch or Zwe1gelt.
In Mittelburgenland, to the 1mmed1ate
south ofthe Neus1ed lersee, one vine in every
two 1s Blaufr!nkisch, the grape to which
Mittelburgeruand DAC 1s devoted, which
really comes into 1t11 own hel'e. The result has
been increasingly sophisticated versions of
NORTHEAST MITTEL8UlltGEN LAND
Right on the Hungarian border la a nucleus of particularly
propitious red wine vineyards, where Blaufrlnktach flourlahH,
and hu resulted In new respect for this remarkably aucceaaful
Austrian (and Hungarian) grape variety. l ta relatively hllh
ac idity 1s a useful counterbalance to Pan non Ian warmth.
1 115,50
0
this invigorating red grape, often single­
vineyard expressions, not iust from Morie but
also Albert Gesellmann and the new teams at
the Hans Igler, Kerschbaum, and Weninger
wineries. The most s1grnftcant, northeastern
portion of M 1ttelburgenland is mapped above.
Blaufran kisch also reigns in Sudburge nland,
a much more diffuse wine region well south
of the lake that encompasses the Eisenberg
DAC The wines are hghter than in
Mittelburgenland, with distinct minerality and
spice. a reflection ofthe high iron content in
the soil, especially around Deutsch Schutzen­
E1sen berg. The best producers are the
Krutzler fa mily, whose best-known bottling 1s
Perwolff, while Uwe Sch1efer's s ingle·v ineyard
Reihburg Blaufrankis
.
ch 1s also notable
Wac hter-Wiesler and Kopfenstei ner are also
names to head for Enticing new wave white
wines are also emerging here from younger
prod ucers. Not Just Interesting Pmot Blanc
but some dry Welschr1eshng from particularly
old vines in Rec hnitz.
Storks' nests are a common fe ature in Central
Europe as here m Rust, a picturesque village
fa mous fo r Its sweet Ausbruch that has - so fa r
- voted to stay out ofthe DAC system.
41
BURGENLAND • AUSTfUA
U1
Wien�
Ir ti•fovo
,./'
•
"q,
)okobshof
International boundary
Ried (named vineyard)
Vineyards
Woods
Contour interval 50 metres
.
c
0

Hungary
For centuries, Hungary has had the most
distinctive food and wine culture, the most
varied native grapes, and the most refined
wine laws and customs of any country
east of Germany. After the usual flirtation
with international grape var1et1es, the
extraordinary palette of indigenous Hungarian
white wine grapes - with Fu rmint currently to
the fore - 1s now recognized as an asset rather
than a liability But this has not been enough
to prevent Hungary's vineyard area from
shrinking by about half in the 10 years to 2018,
to 148,000 acres (60,000ha), as Hungarian
wines, their prices bolstered by national pride,
have struggled to find export markets.
The characteristic traditional Hungarian
wine is wh ite - or rather warmly gold - and
spicy It tastes, 1f 1t 1s a good one, distinctly
rich - not necessarily sweet but fu ll of fire
and even a shade fierce. It 1s wine for meals
cooked with more spice and pepper and 011
than a light wine could stand These are
dishes for Hungary's cold winters The
grapes are ripened in warmer autumns
than in many parts ofcontinental Europe,
although the climate is relatively cool and
the growing season shorter than in most
Mediterranean regions.
Average annual mean temperatures are
warmest 1n the south, reaching 52.5°F (11 4°C)
around the town of Pee s, and coolest in the
north, reaching a low of around 49°F (9 5"C)
at Sopron. Hungary hes at the heart
of the Carpathian Basin and almost all of the
country's h1stor1c wine regions (see p.264
fo r Tokaj) have evolved rn the shelter of high
&round, varied terrain results rn a range
of mesocllmatea, reflected in the d1ver11ty
of •ach r9&1on's wrnes .
Hungary's great grape var1et1es begin with
the firmly structured, racy, ageworthy
Fu rmint and the softer, more perfumed
Harslevelu - the grapes ofTokaJ, but not only
of TokaJ Quite different - lighter - are the
aromatic, lively Leanyka and the even grap1er
K1ralyleanyka Other quintessentially
Hungarian var1et1es include the Keknyeh'.l
("blue-stalk") of Lake Balaton, the fresh, even
tart, EzerJ6 of M6r, and the austerely stylish
Juhfark ("sheep's tail") of Soml6, whose wines
are softening thanks to climate change.
Less widely planted and/or less promising
but definitively Hungarian are Mezes Feher,
Bakator, Buda1 Zold, Prntes, Sarfeher, and
Kov1dinka. They are supplemented for
everyday whites by Sauv1gnon Blanc and
the popular crossing (and table grape) lrsai
Oliver, while Olasmzling (Welschr1esling),
Chardonnay, and Szurkebarat (Pinot Gris) are
more likely to be associated with fu ller- bodied
and oaked wines.
Dark-skrnned grapes and red wrnes were
rntrod uced to Hungary as re latively recently
as the early 15th century, with a second wave
arrivrng rn the 18th centu ry with the Swabian
and German growers who settled in Hungary
after the Ottoman period . Most of these vrne
var1et1es, with the notable exception of
Kadarka, are designed to produce light,
crisp reds suitable for fa irly early drrnklng.
A second, more recent wave of imports of
course Included the Cabernets and Merlot
Red varieties are st1ll 1n the minority, and
grown marnly rn Eger, Sopron, Szekszard, and
V11Jany Kekfrankos (called Blaufrankisch in
Austria) 1 s the most- planted red wine grape
and has real potential, its innate crispness
being an asset rn the Pan non1an warmth
It 1s grown In almost every region but does
particularly well rn Szekszard, Sopron, and
Eger, as well as rn Matra. Kadarka, whose
wine can be spicy and a little tart, does best
The shores ofLaklJ Balaton, Huf1(1ary's
favourite hollday spot, may be fined with vii
i
@
and hotels, but here vinH get;pretty close to
the influence ofEurope's largetlt lake.
in Szekszard and as a seasoning in the
B1kaver blends of Szekszard and Eger.
Half of Hungary's vrneyard area lies on the
easily mechanized Great Plain, between the
Duna (Danube) and the T1sza m the southern
centre of the cou ntry, in the regions now
known as Kunsag, Csongract, and Haj6s·
Baja. The sandy soil 1s of httle use for
anything but vines. Great Plain wine, ma.inly
white Olaszrizling and Ezerj6, with some red
Kekfrankos and Kadarka, 1s the everyday wine
1n Hungarian c1t1es, although producers such
as Fr1ttmann Te stverek show that better
wines are possible. Hungary's better-quality
vineyards are scattered among the hills that
traverse the country from southwest to
northeast, culminating in the TokaJ region
described on p.264.
Southern spice
In the warm south, the d1str1cts of
Szekszard, Villany, Pees, and To lna grow both
red and white w ines. Kadarka 1s the historic
grape, with Kekfran kos well-entrenched.
Villany 1s southernmost, warmest, and
makes the running with fu ll- bodied reds of
increasrng interest and complexity, with Eger
m the north, this is the region that shows up
on foreigners' radar and top wine hsts m
Budapest. Such growers as Attila Gere,
Malatmszky, Ede T1ffan, J6zsef Bock, Sauska,
and Vylyan have substantial local followings
for their Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet
Franc (especially), and Merlot, sometimes
blended with Kekfrankos or Zweigelt, or even
Portug1eser (also known as Kekoporto) for a
Magyar twist. Early overenthus1asm for
ripeness and oak made some wines hard to
enjoy, but experience 1s rapidly improv ing
things. On the slopes of Szekszard, the deep
loess produces structured Kekfrankos,
Kad arka, Merlot, and the Cabernets
The names to look for here are Heimann,
Sebestyen, Takler, Vesztergomb1, and Vida
Szekszard also produces a Bikaver blend of
Kekfrankos, Kadarka, and (usually) the
Bordeaux red var1et1 es.
The B1kaver name originated 1n Szekszard
but is also used in E1er for a red blend based
on Kekfrankos Egr1 B1kaver was once
Hungary's fa mous wine in the West, a rugged
red sold as Bull's Blood Eger, at the eastern
end of the Matra Hills in the northeast of the
cou ntry, 1 s one of Hungary's most important
wine centres, a baroque city with huge cellars,
magnificent caverns cut rn the hills' soft, dark
tuff Hundreds oftime-blac kened oak casks,
10ft (3m) across and bound wrt:h bright red
iron hoops, line 8 miles (1 3km) of tu nnels
Their age and less than pristine cond1t1on

1 2,�,00
0
KmO
l-
I
----- '°
..
..
.
--
..
.,.
.
-
-"
"'
lQO
Km
-0
tfoMiloa
/I.
/".
/-\.--"('
SLOVINSKA lEPUILIKA / _ ___,
,,.
..
. Solg61oq1>n
)
(SLOVAKIA)
,
'
0q
l
\/v\oson
,
SLOVE NIJA
mogyor6var
.'-
-'
'
'Zaltl
l.:1
1ros
.
•
ZALA
'\0
..
'\ Nogykomno
\
HRVATSKA
(CROATIA)
played a part man apparent thinning
ofthe blood in this h1stor1c wine, but the
21st century hasseen a renaissance in red
winemakmg here. St. Andrea, Kovacs Nimr6d,
Thummerer, and the late Tibor Gal's winery
(co ntinued by his fa mily), are the modern face
ofEger, with B1kaver only part of much larger
red and white portfolios, including some very
promising P1not No1r.
West of Eger along the south-fac ing slopes
ofthe Matra range 1s Hungary's second­
biggest vineyard region, Matra, with the town
ofGyongyos at its heart. White wines make
up 80% of its output but some reasonably
successful art1sanal Kekfrankos and Kadarka
reds have joined the more established
otasz r1zling, Tram m1, and Chardonnay.
Jn-the far west, almost on the Austrian
bOrder, i s Sopron, a red wme outpost
growing mainly Kekfrankos, which has been
revitalized by producers such as Franz
W.mnger fr om across the Austrian border
iB Burgenland. He has been followed in his
redevelopment ofthe best sites by locals
Luka, Pfnetszl, and Raspl.
To the east of Sopron, Nes%mely was
be$t-known fo r dry whites fro m tracht1onal
grapes but today produces a range of
thoroughly international varietals from
ultra- modern winer ies dea1gned with exports
in mind, Hilltop is the best-known. Etyek­
Buda. Just west of Budapest, 1$ another
12
2'
lEPUILIKA
SlllJA
flourishing source of largely 1nternat1onally
styled whites, including sparkling wine,
considerable quant1t1es of wh1ch are made m
the cellars of Budafok, j ust south of the
capital. Garamvar1 1s probably the best, J6zsef
Szentesi makes more art1sanal trad1t1onal­
method fizz m co-operation with other small
producers across the country.
Kreinbacher, Kolomcs, Spiegel berg, To rnai,
Soml61 Apatsag1 Pince, and Soml61 Vandor are
the top producers on the strangely isolated
volcanic hill of Soml6, north of Lake Balaton,
Kreinbacher notably for classic sparkling.
Here, Fu rmmt, Harslevelu, Olaszr1zling,
and the rare, exceptional Juhfark are
characte r1st1cally firm and mineral. The
clay-limestone of Mor to the northeast results
m EzerJ6 that 1s especially tart, high-flavoured ,
and sometimes nobly sweet. Both are among
Hungary's "historical wine regions"
Lake Balaton, besides being the biggest
lake m Europe, has a special significance for
Hungarian s . In a country with no coast, 1t 1s
the "sea" and chief beauty spot . Balaton's
shores are thick with summer villas and
holiday resorts, fragrant with ad mirable
cooking. It has good weather and a busy
social life. The north shore of Lake Balaton
has all the advantages ofgood southern
exposure and shelter from cold winds, as well
asthe a1r-cond1t1onlng effect ofa big body of
water It 1s inevitably a v ineyard .
HUNQA.. Y
2ft
I
j
,,
,,
,-
-
--..
'
.._
_
_
.-.
.
,.
._
_,./
r'
=:///
'
_J-./
po/
,/./
fY
ROMANIA
K°"
"
oSzorvos
)
Bekesc50ba o
(
0H6dmezov6s6rhely
,/
___ ./
/
I'
)
.J
lnternat1onal boundary
SOPRON Wine region
•'Tol
llj
Wine town/v1llage
land above 40
0
metres
[]!
!]
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
Its special qualities come from the climate,
and from the combination of a sandy soil and
extinct volcano stu mps (Mount Badacsony
1s the most fa mous) that sprout from
otherwise flat land. The steep basalt slopes
dram we ll and absorb and hold the heat
Except m exceptional years when botryt1zed
sweet wines are made, above all fr om
Szu rkebarat (Pmot Gris), most wines here
are dry, and with their strong mineral
element can benefit from aeration.
Olas zr1zling is the common white grape.
Rhine Riesling and Keknyelu can be excellent,
The Lake Balaton region has been divided
into four appellations. On the north shore
are the classic Baclacsony, where Bence
Laposa, Szeremley, Endre Szaszi, Peter Val i,
Sabar, 2HA, Villa To lnay, and Villa Sandahl
are the most re nowned prod ucers, and
BalatonfOred-Csopak, where Mihaly F1gula,
Istvan Jasd 1, Szent Donat, Petranyi, and
Guden B1rtok are notable. The best
Olaszr1zhng wines are labelled Csopak Kodex,
a quality- oriented appellation system. On the
south shore 1s Balatonboglar The Chapel
Hill brand is best- known on export markets,
while the best growers are Janos Konyar1,
Ott6 Legh, Geza Legh, and IKON with Ve ncel
Garamvar1 for both still and sparkling wine,
Various outlying vineyards to the west,
where the finest producer 1s the Bussay
Fa mily, are grouped as Zala.
•
I
c
o
0
T
E
T
'
"G

264
HUNGARY
To kaj
The word "legend" Is more often used
about Tokaji than any other wi ne. (Tokay
is the old English and French spelling;
the town that Inspired the name, at the
bottom of the map opposite, is Tokaj).
And with good reason. Although it suffered
a temporary total eclipse of standards
during the communist era, TokaJ 1 has been
legendary for 400 years.
History relates how the sumptuous TokaJ 1
Aszu, made from botryt1zed grapes, was first
produced - method ically, rather than by
chance - by the chaplai n of the Rak6cz1
fa mily in their vineyard called Orem us (his
name was Szepsy Lacko Mate; the year
1630). How m 1703 the patriot Prince Rak6cz1
of Transylvan ia used TokaJI to woo Louis XIV
and drum up support against his Habsburg
overlords How Peter and Catherine (both
Great) kept Cossacks m Tokaj to escort their
supplies to St Pete rsburg - and how its
restorative properties led potentates to
keep Tokaji by their bedsides.
Tokaj1 was the first wine knowingly to be
made from botryt1zed or "nobly rotten"
STYLES OF TOKAJ
grapes: over a century before Rhine wine,
and perhaps two before Sauternes. The
cond1t1ons that cause the rot, the shrivelling
of the grapes, and the intense concentrat ion
of the1r sugar, ac id, and flavour are endemic
to the Tokaj region.
The Zemplen Mountai ns are volcanic, rising
in typically sudden cones from the north
edge ofthe Great Plam .•Two rivers, the
Bod rog and the Tisza, converge at the
southern tip of the range, where Mount
Kopasz, also known as TokaJ Hill, rises above
the villages of TokaJ and Tarcal . Fro m the
plain come warm summer winds, from the
mountai ns shelter, and from the rivers the
rising autumn mists that promote botrytis.
October 1s usually sunny, although the region
suffered a botryt1s "drought" between
2008 and 2013.
Of the three grape var1et1es m Tokaj today,
some 70% of the vines are the late - ripening,
sharp-tasting, thm-s kmned Furmmt, highly
susceptible to botryt1s infection. Another
20-25% 1s Harslevelu ( "linden- leaf" ) , less
susceptible but rich in sugar and aromas.
Since most of the vineyards were mixed
plantings, trad1t1onally Furmmt and
Harslevelu were often harvested, pressed,
and fe rmented together. Between 5 and 10%
of the vines are Muscat Blanc a Petits
Grains, known locally as Sarga Muskotaly -
either used as a seaso ning grape, as
Muscadelle 1s m Sauternes, or on its own
as a sumptuous speciality or, nowadays,
even a light dry wine.
The vineyards of Tokaj (officially known as
Tokai-Hegyalja) were first classified m the
early 1700s and divided mto first, second,
third, and unclassified growths. Jn 1737, by
royal decree, this became the world's first
delimited wme region (see p.40). The map
shows the principal villages of the region
(there are 27 in all; Makkoshotyka 1s to the
north of the area mapped), whose slopes
form a wide V, thus fac ing south, southeast,
or southwest. The northernmost make
delicate and fine Aszus from volcanic soil
and loess. It was here that the original
Oremus vineyard of the Rak6cz1s may have
made the first of all Aszu wines The new
Orem us cellar, owned by Vega Sicilia of
Spam, has been moved south to To lcsva.
In Sarospatak, with a splendid Rak6cz1
castle on the river, Megyer and Paizos were
two ofthe first vineyards to be privatized
Kmcsem 1s the great vineyard of Tolcsva,
named after Hungary's greatest racehorse.
To this day, the state- owned Grand Tokaj
TokajiAszu, a wi ne notable for its combination of sweet n ess, a idity, and
uncannilyapricot-like fruit, i madebya unique two- lage process. Vintage
tarts in l at e 0 Lober Shrivelled Aszu grape and unaffect ed grapes fu ll of
juice are pi ked at the ame time but kept apart. The latter are then pres ed
andfermented to make various styles ofdry or emi-dry wine, in luding a
powerfulbase wine. The szu grapes meanwhileare slored in an almost -dry
heap, ge n tly l eaking the fabulously sweet Eszencia jui e with up to 850 g/I
of sugar to be reverently kept as t he region's greatest treasure ( ee below) .
Eszeneia, the most luxurious Tokaj1, i o weet it will hardl ferment at all.
And ofall the essen es ofthegrapeiti the mo t velvety, oily, peach-like, and
penetrating. Its fragrance linger in the mouth likeincen e E zencia has the
lowest alcohol level ofanywrne - ifyou can calliiwine at all. To age 1 too
great for it.
A& the harvest end , the vi ntner soaks t h e As zu berries, cru hed or not, for
one tofivedays infresh mu tor inpartly or fullyfermentedbasewine,
in the approximate proport ion of one kilo to one l i t re, prior to press1 11g
Fe rmentatrnn st art&, controlled by a combination of lhe sugar content a n d
1he cellar lemperal ure (lhe higher the fo rm rand the lower the latter, the
slowerthefermentation) The riche t andfinest w111es maintain thehighest
degree of natural ugar and so have an alcohollevel of9 10%, depending
on the vintage.
The measure of5wcet ness i tradilionall expres ed a the n u mber of20-kilo
pullonyos, or vineyard hod , of Asz\1 added to 136 litres (on goner barrel) of
ba�e wine, although today swcclnc s 1 s, m ore convenllonally, m ea s u red m
gra ms of re;1dual suga r per litre and win are fe rmented in ba rrel of various
bizcs, somet i mes even 11
1
5ta111les steel. Today's w111es are e i th e r 5- or
6-puttonyos Aszu rangrng from a bout 150g/l to more (sometime much
more) thJn 200 g/ l sugar with co mplexit and n •rve as important as
;wect nesN Trndlt1unally, thes<' wi n e 5 were a ged longer, b u l earlier botlling 1&
1ncrea�111gly rnmmon, re ultmg 1n wine� with mor frcshne. s 111 youthbut
1,l JJI awc;o nw polt• ntwl for ageing If no ruz(1 has been a dded , th 1N111e "
zamorod ni (literally "as it rnmes" in Pol ish) uggcst1 11g the fru it wa<, p i c k ed
and cru;h d INl!h the bot 1yt1zed herrie5 Th zi\ruz (di)) ver ion develop•
mlherIJkc " l ight &herry. while theEd<•s (l.111ly;wect)h. u different hlylc The
(now regul,t!ed) ll e of the term Lule Harvest (Ke ui 1z ilrelelem) on label&
h,1 <1ddc· d t<> an alre .1dy c:omphc.itcd pKI ure . The n.ituially 51Neet INIJH'h
may he mad<' simpl) of oH·rript gru pcs, bul more often they are abo matle
wi th hollvtuc d grapc·s ,rnd, 11
1
wnlrn'>t to \f-tU wrne,, ..tl l' m.1tund only b riefly
A an increasingly important second tring to 1! bow, Tokaji is rediscovering
the quaIitie of dry wine , notabl but not exclu i el dr Furmint, that are
gen erally intriguing and di·tinctive: inten e. slow to unfurl, and with ery
obvious middle European nobility. In the past u h wine were, effc live l y.
Szamorod ni. We an expect to ee more of thi l I a on of Hungary's
uni que ontr1butions l n
°
p1r
c d b the dramatic i mp ro ements 111 making
Asz\1 wi n e s (and the not- inconsiderable difficult of selling them) , mo l
producer now offer dr wines in th image of those that pin) eel a '>igndi m1 t
role 111 TokaJ i three or four centurie ago Jl d th increa;ing emergl' n c of
excit 111g 'in gl e - ine ard w111es s rves only to underlin<' t h e wi<;dom ot thc
18th- enLury v11
1
c ard cla<;<; 1fi ca tion.

buys so many grapes, not necessari ly of the
highest quality, from the region's smallholders
that 1t rs much the largest producer.
Olaszliszka (0/asz means "Italian") is a
13th -century Italian settlement; lege nd
has 1t that rt was the Italians who rntroduced
winemakrng. Here the so1l 1s clay with
atones, prod ucrng more potent wrnes.
Erd6benye lies up by the oak fo rests, the
source of barrel s . Szegi long has a number
ofclassed growths, and 1s seerng a revival.
f!lodrogkeresztur and Tokay itself, by the
river, have the most regular botryt1s.
From To k8J, around the south side of Mount
Kopasz rnto Tarcal, the steep and sheltered
vmeyards are the Cote d'Or of the region;
a succession of once-famous site names
(the greatest is Szarvas) which contrnues
through Ta.real onto the road to Mad with
Te rezia and the great growth Mazes Maly In
Mezdzombor, D1szn6kd was one of the first
• OllBMUS Notable producer
Hl
ll
los
Noted vineyard
l!1iH! Wine town/vrllage
- Classrfied vrneyard
Other Vineyard
"'-
-
Woods
--50
0
·
Contour rnterval 100 metres
..
.
Weather statron (WSJ
TOKAJ'S BEST VINEYARDS
vrneyards to be privatized rn the early 1990s
after the fa ll ofco mmunism and has been
spectacularly restored by AXA of France.
Mad, the former centre of the wrne trade,
has the famous first growths Nyulasz6,
Szt Tamas, Kiraly, U ragya, and Betsek, as
wel l as the steep, abandoned Kdv8.g6. Ratka
and Tallya near Mad have vrneyards of similar
potential with al most the same volcanic
geology and a slightly cooler location
All fo rces now pornt towards lower yields
and slngle-vrneyard wrnes able to express
these very distinct terro1rs. The names of
the first growths are once again becomrng
fam rhar. In recogn rtron of its return to
precise, wine-producrng glory, the TokaJ
region was made a UNESCO World Heritage
Site rn 2002. More recent developments,
some Inspired by lacklustre sales of these
great sweet wr nes, rnclude Chateau
Dereszla's amb1t1ous new winery focused
TOKAJ HUNGAl'tY
2H
on sparkling wines, a iOvernment-fu nded
scheme to encourage winemakrn1 among
young locals, and Frenchman Samuel Tinon's
flor · rnfluenced Szamorod nr dry wrnes
If the current re naissance of TokaJ1 has
a figurehead, 1t 1s Istvan Szepsy, an
rnspirationally fas tidious grower If 1t has
an 1nternat1onal market leader, It 1s Royal
Tokaji, also 1n Mad, founded rn 1990 by
Hugh Johnson (founder and co-author of th1s
book) and others, and the first rndependent
company of the new regime Royal TokaJI was
the first to re rntrod uce vrneyard
names on labels.
rogolasz1
1 183,00
0
.
.
�o
6�
1-
-
�..
..
..
..
..
..
�..
..
..
--
-.
.
�--
Mo'leoO
TOKAJ: TOKAJ
Latit ude / Elevation ofWS
48.10° I 436ft (133m)
JM;loa
Ave rage growing ea&on temperature at W
eo.4°F c1s.s0cJ
verage annual ra infall at V.'S
24in (620mm)
Har esl month ra infall at W
Octobe r: 1.611
1
(41 mm)
Pri ncipal \ 1t1culturJl hanrds
Autumn rain, grey rot
Vineyard names have become Increasingly
Principal gi·, p \arr 1 ic�
important smce Tokej production was returned
W: Furmint, H rs levelu, Sarga Muskotil.ly
fro m the state to individuals keen to express the
'·'l
ll
"olo
region's distinctive topography in llquld form
•I•
•I
I•
D
'f
E
'f
L
.

A
•
c
0
D
'E
286
Czechia and Slovakia
The Czech wine business is modest In size -
too small to satisfy local demand - but has
progres
sed
enormously In quality since the
fal l ofcommunism. Slovakia Is warmer and
makes riper, more potent wines from about
the same area of vineyard as Czechia.
Czech la
Czech wi nes may be labelled var1etally and
always by ripeness level in the German
fas hion. Seven geographical appellations
(VOC) were introduced in 2017.
Bohemia, the hinterland of Prague, has
about 1,600 acres (650 ha) of vines, mainly
along the right bank ofthe Elbe (Labe).
Basalt and limestone can imbue some
character, particularly in Pinot Noir at
Melnik, Svatovavrinecke (Austria's Sankt
Laurent) at Roudnice; and Ryzhnk Rynsky
(R1eshng) at Velke Zernoseky. Kosher wines
are produced at Most
Moravia, with 40,850 acres (16,530 ha) of
v1neyard, makes by far the maior1ty of Czech
wine The warm limestone slopes of the
Palava hills here are locally fa mous for their
flora, and for the We lschr1eshng (Ryzhnk
Vlassky) that, together with Chardonnay, are
the flagship wines of the M1kulovsko subregion.
The best wines of the Znoiemsko subregion
are zesty Sauvignon Blancs, especially from
the Kravak vineyard, as well as Ve ltlinske
Zelene (G runer Ve ltliner) and Riesling,
although the fut ure for Pinot No1r looks
prom1s1ng, especially from Stapleton -Springer
''-
\1
•..
._
__.
,
.
'l-J
The Slovacko subregion's typical white wine
1s a blend ofR1eshng and white P1nots sold as
voe Blatnice but It IS mostly planted with red
grapes Zwe1gelt, Frankovka (Austria's
Blaufrank1sch), and Cabernet Moravia, a
recent local crossing of Zwe1gelt and Cabernet
Franc. Red wine grapes are also a speciality of
the Velkopavlov1cko su bregion . The best of
them carry the Modre Hory appellation and
are made from Modry Portugal (Portug1eser),
Frankovka, and Svatovavrinecke.
Throughout the subregions the aromatic
white Moravian crossings of PB.lava
(Tram iner and Muller-Thurgau) and Morav ian
Muscat (Muscat Ottonel and Prachtraube)
produce whites at all sweetness levels
Slovakla
In the early 19th centu ry, what was once
cal led Upper Hungary supphed fine wines to
European courts from as many as 145,000
acres (57,000 ha) of vineyards. Phylloxera killed
this off but Slovak wine production was
revived in the 20th centu ry, only to shrink
again - the total Slovak vi neyard today 1s iust
40,000 acres (16,000 ha) as towns and c1t1es
have expanded and land prices have risen.
Cheap imported wine 1s another fac tor.
White wines predominate, with Veltlinske
Zelene (Gruner Ve lthner) and R1zhng Vla5sky
(Welschr1eshng) the most- planted var1et1es.
Frankovka Mod ra (Blaufran kisch) and
Svatovavrinecke (San kt Laurent) make
crisp roses and fru ity reds, but there 1s
considerable interest in new Slovak
crossings, bred to ripen early with higti sugar
levels and full flavours. The most important
are Devrn (Gewurztraminer x Roter Veltliner)
and Dunaj (Muscat Bouschet x Portugieser x
San kt Laurent) The fu ll gamut of historic
sweet wines - lcewine, straw wine, and
botryt1zed wine (including Slovakian To kaj,
marked in brown on the map) - is bemg
revived . (The wine regions flanking the
capital, Bratislava, are effectively northern
extensions of Burgenland m Austria ) There
is exper1mentat1on with orange wines made
in Georgian-inspired qve vrt, too.
In general, the warmer, more continental
climate and deeper, fe rt ile soils of southern
Slovakia are more suitable for reds, while the
less fe rtile, stonier soils of the Male Karpaty
(Little Carpathians), which extend northeast
from Bratislava are more suitable for whites
(especially R1eshng) and red Fran kovka.
Most of the best wines are made by
med1um-s1zed wineries with their own
vineyards, such as Karpatska Perla, Pavelka,
Vino Nichta, Ostrofov1c, and Tokaj Mac1k.
One of relatively few exported Slovak wmes
1s the crisp, dry Chateau Bela Riesling made,
because of a fa mily connection, by Egon
Muller of Germany.
As in Czech1a, Slovak wines are labelled
according to both the German system of
grape sugar levels and the French appellation
system, although there 1s no official
framework for the latter.
International boundary
0
.J0
uberec
--"'\.
.
t CECHY Wine region
J..
�
f"T6bor
Ceske \
Bude1ov1ce
\
•..-. ·)
(
Hradec
.
,
0 Kr6love
\.
Lobe (Elb8;
/
•KJIfOfl
l
'-
--.
.
,, .REPUBLIK
r,
.._.
..)
�
0
M0R�A
J1hlovo (M O R
•OHIMIA, MOl'tAVIA, AND SLOVAKIA
Thre
e
very different wine re1lon1 can be u1oclated with
what l lHjuat over their re1pectlve borders with Sach1en
1n Germany, Weinvlertel in Au1trla, and northern Hunpry
(lncludln1 ToQJ).
POLSKA
I•
MILNICl{O Wine subregion
."
•Ml
lnl
ll
Wine townlvlllage
.�
Land above 100
0
metres
1 3,650,00
0
50
IQOKm
,_,
,,.-
..
.
,.-
-.
..
.
..
.
1'i\. ..,11skt1
(
'O
JOt
u
AntjJUlll
e
!
•
> lR HlO I()\ l\\K( /
1,/Jif
•
,,
,
·
.i
ii
Ml
lo
o
Arin•j___,
,.
�J.
..-
-
-
M AOYAl011%AO
(HUNGAl
lY
I
•I

217
Western Balkans
(10,500 ha). Wines are clean and fres h,
butthe country's unique combination of
Mediterranean climate and Indigenous grapes
such as Shesh 1 Bardh6, Pules, and Debme fo r
whites and Shesh I Z1, Kallmet, Vlosh, and
Serina for reds is ripe fo r development The
fu ture of Albanian wine 1s currently in the
hands of 1mm1grant returnees with wine
experience, particularly from Italy, who have
invested 1n small fa mily wineries
If few wines ofmore than local Interest
come from the reslons on this map tod.y
It Is for political reasons rather than
aeographlcal ones. On the latitude of Italy
and similarly diverse and mountainous, the
western Balkans have equally propitious
cond1t1ons fo r vines. They have ancient
histories of wlnemaking and the many native
grape var1et1es that inevitably result. And
they have emerged from years of political
strife to offer increasingly convincing proof
of rich wmemakmg potential
Mountainous Bosnia and Herzegovina was
once an important vineyard of Austro­
Hungary but now there are iust 8,650 acres
(3,500 ha) of vmes, mainly m Herzegovina
south ofMostar. Zilavka, capable ofmaking
memorable fu ll-fl avoured, dry, apr1cot­
scented white wine, accounts fo r about half
ofall plantings, the much more ordinary
dark-skinned Blatina for about 30%.
Wine prod uction m Serbia has a chequered
history. The Tu rks did their best to rout the
vrne; the Hapsburgs pos1t1vely encouraged 1t.
Today, Serbia claims to have even more
vineyard s than Croatia - 55,1 00 acres
(22,300 ha) registered and a fu rther 7,400
acres (3,000ha) unregistered. Production of
the most basic wine 1s still dominated by two
large industrial wineries, but today there are
as many as 400 smaller, fam ily-owned
enterprises, some of wh1ch are producing
wines ofreal interest .
The northern autonomous province of
Voivodina shares the climatic extremes
ofthe Pan nonian Plain with Hungary to
the north. Welschr1esling (Gra5ac) 1s
com mon here, while Pinots of all three
colou rs currently offer most promise.
The vineyards with the best potential
(and a long history) are on the Fruska
Gora, the hills that relieve the flatness
ofVojvodma along the Danube north of
Belgrade. Many young winemakers here
are experi menting with natural, b1odynam1c,
organic, and amphora wines, making 1t Serbia's
most dynamic wine region. The sandy
Subotica and Tisa wine regions in the far
north are both geographically and culturally
much more Hungarian than Serbian.
The town ofSmederevo south of Belgrade
sives its name to the white Smederevka grape
(Bulgaria's D1m1at), producing scarcely
memorable off-dry whites, but a few
prod ucers are making more interesting
wines from Riesling, Chardonnay, and
Cabernet Sauvignon The local Prokupac
grape 1s Serbia's local flagship grape for
reds. Increased interest m what 1s local 1s
resulting in some creditable Morava, a
Sauvignon-hke Serbian crossing, as well as
various planti ngs around the country of the
indisputably Balkan Probus, Neoplanta,
Bagrma, Za�inak, and Sedusa. The sunny
Negot1nska Kraima region on the right bank of
the Danube 1s developing a reputation for both
Black Muscat (known 1n Serbia as Tami anika)
and Cabernet Sauv1gnon
Until the d1sintegrat1on of Yugoslavia,
Kosovo's wine industry was maintained largely
by exports of Amselfelder, a sweet red blend
for the German market. A Serbian blockade
put paid to wrne exports fo r many years.
Today, there are about 7,960 acres (3,220 ha)
of vineyards and around 15 wineries ranging
from tiny fa mily operations to the 1 ,480-acre
(600-h a) former state wi nery Stone Castle,
pr1vat1zed m 2006 by two Albanian -American
brothers The second-biggest winery,
Suhareka Verar1, 1s now, like many, advised by
Italians. Vranac, Prokupac, Smederevka,
Gamay, Welschr1esh ng, and Pmot No1r are the
principal grape var1et1es The main wine region
1s known as Dukagi1ni m Albanian and Metoh1Ja
in Serbian, and is caught between Kosovo's
own law and that of Serbia Nothing 1s easy 1n
this part ofthe world
Albania's ancient wine industry managed to
survive Ottoman rule, then the communist
fixation with vol ume at all costs, and its
vineyards today are said to total 26,000 acres
Montenegro's wine industry is small, with
about 7,400 acres (3,000 ha) of vines
dominated by one winery 13 Jul .Plantaze.
Its 5,708-acre (2,310- ha) single vineyard 1s
Europe's second-largest A good 70% 1s
planted to Vranac, the deep ·coloured, tan nic
red variety that has real ageing potential
here The other important local grape 1s
Kratos1ia (Zmfan del) which Montenegrms,
hke Croatians, claim as their own
Even fu rther south, on the border with
Greece, the hot wmelands of North
Macedonia are making much better wine now
that the industry 1s m private hands. There
are 75 wi neries and three wine regions, of
which Povardar1e, or the Vardar Valley, is by
far the most important. Vineyards devoted to
wine total 47,1 65 acres (19,087 ha), with those
m the hills towards Greece more promising
than those on the flatlands. About a third
of al l grapes are Vranac Small- berried
Muscat (Temianika), usually v1nified dry, 1s
most common for wh ites Almost 85% of
prod uction 1s exported, notably by T1kves
D
T
MAGYARORSZAG
(HUNGARY)
International boundary
Province boundary
IWIA1 Wine region
B1T01A Wine subregion
Land above 100
0
metres
r-
-;-:;
;-i
Area mapped at lar&er
L.
..!
!.
.!.
..
..J
scale on page shown
1
(N}
T
•I•
t\RATO\O
�\
�"-�- - �
10 SIVIRNA
E
'F
.LCJ'l�VO'\< ''
't4fr.·.. MAKED0NuA
(NORTH MACl
lH>NfA
)
E \iR l'-tIC\
R.\O
O
H�
1 6,80
0
,00
0
100
20
0
Km
100..
..
..

c
0
D
-,
268
Slovenia
Even in the Iron Curtain era it was hard
to tell where Friull stopped and Slovenia
began. It was the first ofthe old Yugoslav
nations to declare independence (in 1991),
and the only one whose wine has always
been acknowledged and drunk in Western
Europe. In the 1970s, "Lutomer Riesling"
from eastern Slovenia was almost the only
wine shipped from behind the c urtain .
Slovenia stretches from the mild Adr1at1c
eastwards to the Pan nonian Plam with its
continental climate. The green rol ling hills
provide some excellent grape- ripening sites,
now grouped mto three distinct wine regions:
Primorska (on the coast), Posavie (along the
SLOVENIA'S WINE REGIONS
i
Q ,Koston 1ev1ca no Krosu
"'
Komen
Joa'Oo .OTAR. o
&irianska
lnternatt0nal boundary
� Wlne r!Jl
l
on
• OOWI Notable producer
m Contour lntervel 100 metres
Cfil]Ammappedatlar11
1
r
scaleonpqelhown
t
Sava River and not mapped m detai l), and
Pod ravi e (along the Drava River), including
the h1stor1c wine centres of Mar1bor, Ptuj,
Radgona, and Li utomer-Ormoz.
It was at Mar1bor that, 1n 1822, Austrian
Archduke Johann ordered "al l noble v me
var1et1es that exist" to be planted on his
property. Thus Chardonnay, Sauv1gnon
Blanc, Pmot Gris, Pmot Blanc, Tram iner,
Muscat, Riesling, Pmot No1r, and more were
introd uced to mland Slovenui.
The country's total area of vines has been
declining m this centu ry, as the number of
Slovenians interested m bemg part-time
v1gnerons shrinks, but 38,067 acres (15,405ha)
ofvmeyards are officially registered, and there
are many more that are not. Average
holdings are tmy, and although the Slovenian
wme industry 1s gradually becoming more
PRIMORSKA IN DETAIL
Part of Gorlska Brda in the far northwest 1s
mapped In detail on p.171 , while the most
important section of the Pr1morska region to
its immediate southeast is mapped below. Note
also the location of Slovenska lstra, partly
mapped in detail on p.271 .
professional and less fragmented, almost
30,000 Slovenians still grow some vmes.
Primoraka
Pr1morska, the westernmost Slovernan wine
region, with 15,827 acres (6,408ha) ofvmeyard,
never lost h1stor1c links with Friuli across the
border in Italy and is still Slovenia's most
dynamic wine region. Summers here are hot,
winters mild, but autumn rams can arrive
early. Most of the Pr1morska vineyards are
influenced both by the Ad r1at1c and the Alps
and tend to produce aromatic, powerful wmes.
Predictably, given its prox1m1ty, Pr1morska
fa vours the Fr1uhan style of aromatic, dry,
var1etally named whites and firm reds which,
unusually for Slovenia, represent as much as
half of production. The Brda d1str1ct 1n the
north ofthe region 1s effectively a continuation
of Collio across the border m Fr1uh (and 1s
mapped with Fr1 uli on p.171)
Rebula (Ribolla G1alla) 1s the queen here,
closely followed by Chardonnay and Merlot
Rebula can be made m every 1magmable style,
fro m razor-sharp and raised m stainless steel
to the deep-orange product of dramatically
extended skin contact and long maturation in
qvevri, Georgia's clay pots. (Josko Gravner, the
modern fat her ofth1s latter technique m Friuh
and beyond, is based iust over the border.) It is
often used to freshen local sparkling wmes and
can make excellent sweet wmes. Rebula is also
a common mgred1ent m the white mult1var1etal
blends that are common m this part of the
world (on both sides of the border). Merlot/
Cabernet Sauv1gnon blends and P1not Notr are
some ofthe most successful reds but 1n Brda,
as 1n Fr1uli, a wide range of other local and
mternat1onal var1et1es is grown. These include
the aromatic Sauv1gnonasse (called Friulano
m Fr1uli), Pmot Gr1g10, which typically has much
more structure and character than its Veneto
counterpart, and Sauv1gnon Blanc.
The Vipava Valley, or V1pavska Dohna,
d1str1ct 1s noticeably cooler, especially m its
upper reaches, re sulting m wmes with more
lift, elegance, and less alcohol than m Brda.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauv1gnon, and Sauv1gnon
Blanc are important here but regional
specialties such as R1bolla Gialla and the
md1genous Zelen and Pmela are ga ming
ground. Wh ite blends based on these k>cal
grapes are worth seeking out, as 1s V1pava
Pmot No1r
Kru district, the harsh karst limestone
plateau above Trieste, with its shallow, i ron·
rich, red clay soils, Is fa mous for dark, tart, but
tasty Teran, made from Refosco grapes.
Refosco 1s also by far the most important
grape in Slovenaka l atra, Slovenia's warmest
district south of Trieste, where 1t makes a
spicy, full·bod 1ed red, though never exactly
soft The aromatically peachy Malvaz1Ja
lstarska that goes so well with Adr1at1c fish 1s
the white wme grape par excellence here (as

t 1s Just over the border in lstrla; see p . 271 )
and 1s becoming increasingly important 1n
Pr1morska's other three districts.
Podravje
Podravie, with 15,835 acres (6,408ha) of
vines, 1s Slovenia's most important, extensive,
and most continental region It 1s divided into
t:M sprawling At-.Jerska Slovenija district
and the re latively minute Prekmurje (see
locator map on this page) . Reds ac count for
less than 10% of all Pod ravJe wine.
The dominant variety was for long the
Ldk1 R1zhng (Welschr1esling) once fam ously
branded Lutomer in the UK, but, as
elsewhere, increasing atte ntion ls being paid
to Si pon (Furmmt) With its firm, ageworthy
wines, it seems well sutted to the cool
PodravJe climate Other typical wines are
unoaked, screw- capped, var1etally prec ise
Rensk1 Rizling (R1eshng), S1v1 Pmot (Pinot
Gris), D1�ec1 Tram inec (Gewurztraminer),
Sauvignon Blanc, and Rumeni Muscat (Muscat
Blanc a Petits Grams). Indigenous, relatively
low-ac id Ranina (called Bouvier m Austria)
1s a local special ity in Radgona, Slovenia's
sparkling wine capital since 1852. Oaked
Chardonnays and Pinot No1rs are re latively
new but can be seriously good val ue
The slightly warmer Prekmurje district
produces fu ller, softer wines that otherwise
mirror those of its neighbour to the south
Modra FrankinJa (Blaufrank1sch) seems very
much at home here. Interest in this variety has
intensified throughout the country since 2016
when its Slovenian origins were established.
Some exceptional sweet botryt1zed wi nes
and lcewmes m favo urable years are made 1 n
Podravie. According to Guinness World
Records, the fa mous ancient vine 1n Mar1bor
1s the oldest on the planet at more than 400
years old It still yields 77-121 lb (35-55 kg) of
Zametovka grapes every year
Posavj e
PosavJe 1s the least important Slovenian wine
region in terms ofthe total amount of w1ne
produced. There are only 6,643 acres
(2,688 ha) of vines, with much the same grape
varieties as Pod ravJe but often blending them
to make local spec1ahties cal led Meth�ka
crnma, B1zeljcan, and the hugely popular hght,
tart, pink Cvicek Posavie wines tend to be
lighter and less soph1st1cated than those of
Pod ravje . Spicy Modra Fran kinJa 1s a regi onal
favo urite that benefits from time in barrel
The rare, tart wh ite wine grape Rumeni
Plavec can enhven the local fizz ofB1zel1sko
Srem1c, while good sparkhng wines based on
Zametovka have emerged from DolenJska.
The relatively warm Bela KraJma district is
fa mous for Modra Fran kinJa, Ye llow Muscat,
and sweet wines that can often outshine
those from Pod ravi e.
HR
VAT
SKA
( CROATIA)
1 SA0,00
0
KmO
10
20Km
1-
-
���� ..
..
..
.
���--�
_,
Mllo
o
O
IOMilo
o
SLOVENIA
2et
Slovenia, Czechia, and Slovakia have a long
history ofcraftsmanship that results m the finest
mouthblown glasses that are increasingly
treasured by wine lovers all over the world.
International boundary
Boundary of Okoh� (appellabon)
• VERlJS Notable producer
C=:J Vineyards
60
0
Contour interval 150 metres
CENTRAL PODRAVJ E
Slovenia's wine region furthest from the coast is
just south of Styria in Austria, and produces
similarly ftnely etched, mainly white, aromatic
wines. Some Styrian growers have vineyards
over the border in Stajerska Slovenija - which
means Slovenian Styrla.
I•
E
i'
f
0

Croatia
lstria and Dalmatia have always been the
frontispiece of - and tourist magnets for
- Croatia, the sublime coast of golden
Venetian ports and hundreds of Islands.
Emperors, crusaders, and doges passed up
and down without, perhaps, doing much wine
tast ing. To day's yacht-owners know better.
Many of Croatia's wines are original, we ll­
made, and fetc hing good prices.
The country that is modern Croatia has
produced wine for centuries, wines that were
particularly celebrated in the br1ef per1od in
the late 19th century when so many other
European vineyards had been devastated by
phylloxera. But 1t was only a matter of t1me
before the louse arrived in Croatia, and as
a res ult many a vineyard was aba ndoned,
as were many indigenous var1et1es. It 1s
estimated that only about 130 of about 250
indigenous Croatian wine grape var ieties are
grown today.
The total offi cial area of vineyard 1s iust
over 49,500 acres (20,000 ha) although a
high proportion of Croatians grow a few rows
of vines in their gardens for domestic use.
The official average area of registered
vineyards is only 1.2 acres (0.5ha), with 93%
ofthe 41,000 growers owning fe wer than
2.5 acres (1 ha) of vines. Of these about 1,600
prod uce wine commercially.
In 2018, Croatia's wine regulators identified
fo ur wine regions - Slavonla and the Danube
(Slavo niJI I Pod unavlJe), Croatian Uplands
(B,.
.
1ovlta Hrvatska.), lstria and Kvarner
(latra I Kvarner), and Dalmatia (Dalmac1Ja)
fu rther subdivided into 12 1ubreg1on1 (see
map on p.267). About three bottles m every
four of Croatian wine carries an official
geograp hical appellation.
Croatia 1s split in two by the Dinar1c Alps,
the mountain range that follows the coast
We map in detail only coastal Croatia to the
southwest of the mou ntai ns. From north to
south, the region 1s d1v1ded into Croatian
lstria (Hrvatska lstra), the Croatian Littoral
(Hrvatsko Pr1morJe), Northern Dal matia
(Sjeverna Dalmac1Ja), Central and Southern
Dalmatia and associated islands (SrednJa 1
Jufoa DalmaciJa), and the Dal matian
Hinterland (Dalmatinska Zagora).
Most wi nes are wh ite in lstr1a and Kvarner
in the north, while reds predominate in the
south (Dal matia) The Dal matian Hinterland
with its cooltsh Mediterranean citmate grows
a wide range of native var1et1es such as
KuJundfosa, Debit, MaraUina, Blatma, and
Zlatar1ca as well as international grapes,
often m relatively large vineyards - especially
inland from Zadar
Continental Croatia
Croatia's two continental wine regions he far
inland, north and east of the mountai ns
towards the Slovenian and Hungarian borders
and are mapped on p.267. The eastern one,
Slavonia and the Danube 1s the most
extensive, warmest Croatian wine region,
influenced heavily by the Pan nonian Plai n
Its speciality 1s Grdev1na, known elsewhere
variously as Welschr1esling, R1esltng ltalico,
Laski R1zltng, and so on. Croatia's most­
planted grape may well have originated here,
certai nly in the Dan ube Basin, and Croatian
wine producers fe el proprietorial about it,
though regret that the crisp whites rarely
have a chance to age more than a year or
so. It can be a litt le dull, but some very flne
sweet, botrytized Grdevlna is made,
especially around Kutjevo in Slavonla
(SlavomJa). But drier exam ples around
BaranJa and llok, bordering the Danube, can
be thr1lltng enough to compete with the more
Vineyards, a sandy beach, and a turquoise sea.
Heaven on earth does exist - on the island of
Brac1ust offSplit. Stina 1s the leading wme
producer here.
recent plantings of Chardonnay, Traminac,
and true R1esltng. Slavoma tends to have the
country's biggest vineyards, on gentle hills,
and its largest wine producers. It 1s also
famous for supplying the oak for bott1, Italy's
trad itional large casks for maturing wine.
Everything is on a much smaller scale in the
mountainous Croatian Uplands It is cooler
here to the north and west of the capital
Zagreb, especially in Plesivica, and even
Zagorie. where some creditable sweet wines
are also made, notably by Bodre n . Aromatic
whites such as Riesling and Sauv1gnon Blanc
show real promise here In Med1murje, the
northernmost, coolest part of Croatia,
bordering both eastern Slovenia and
southwest Hungary, the most popular wine
1s Pus1pel (one ofCroatia's synonyms for
Fu rmint), dry and sweet Also increasingly
popular 1s dry, lightly aromatic Skrlet, an
indigenous variety that, unusually, has
survived in contin ental C roatia.
Coastal Croatia
Croatia's rich history of native wine grapes
is best preserved in coastal Croatia,
particularly in the south, but lstrla, the most
northerly of the coastal regions, ls blessed
with an emphatic signature grape· Its very
own Malvas1a, Malvaz1ja lstarska, quite
unrelated to most other Malvas1as It reliably
makes recognizably firm, deep wh ite wines
redolent of honey and apple skins, often with a
distinct chewi n ess about them Winemakers
traditionally fe rmented the Malvaz1Ja
lstarska that makes up about 60% of all
lstrian vines in (now fas hionable) contact
with the grape skins, but temperature

control was unknown, the
results often questionable
Today, skin contact continues,
but 1s combined with low
temperatures to preserve the
grapes' distinctive fruit.
Acacia rather than Slavoman oak 1s
usually the barrel-wood ofchoice in lstr1a
The result 1s often lively, fu ll-bodied,
complex wines - some of which benefit
from ageing. The d1stinct1ve lstr1an red wine
grape 1s Teran, also known as Refosk. It 1s
distinct from Fr1uh's Refosco dal Peduncolo
Rosso, and 1s tough enough to tem pt
prod ucers to add some Merlot. It needs
a good site and careful pruning to ripen
gloriously. The Mediterranean climate 1s
cooler here than fu rther south and soils
vary enormously, from bright red through
grey to black.
Just south of I stria 1s Kvarner, whose
vineyard s are mostly on the island of Krk
and traditionally grew mainly the Croatian
Zlahtina to produce light, crisp white,
though some international var1et1es have
also been planted.
South down the beautiful Dalmatian
coast, with its turquoise waters and
hundreds of islands, and where the
influence ofthe Ve netian republic 1s still so
delightfully v1srble, Malvaz1i a does not
always have the same qualities as lstr1an
versions, but there are many other local
grapes of characters only now being
exploited. Here� a co mbination of warm
Mediterranean climate, sea breezes,
dramatic locoi.tlons, and varied exposures
together with a rrch inheritance of native
grapes, should eventually add up to
something very exc iti ng for the world's wine
lovers - if tourists leave enough to export .
(Labels can be a bit of a trial, thanks to the
Croat language's disdain for vowels.)
ClltOATIA
271
1 VINAKOPER
2!IANl'OMAl
l
3PllCR
R
COASTAL CROAT IA AND
SLOVINIAN ISTPllA
� SlOVENUA
Croatia's coastline, on which we concentrate
for our map, ls 3,837 mlies (6,176 kml lon1 If
you fo llow 1t around ita 1 ,000 -plus Islands, and
a number of these have their own umque
grape varieties . Trlbidr&1 (Zinfandel) has
already been traced, but there will doubtlelt
be more d iscoveries.
1 2, 175,00
0
Km0_..
..
.
__..;
;
2.5
._
_
_
..
..
.-
..
.
50
---..
75
..
..,
Km
MilwO
2.5
50Milol
<
IOSNA I
HEICEGOVINA
lnternabonal boundary
DALMACIJA Wine region
H=M Wine subregion
•CIAf
Notable producer
•
Contour interval 50
0
metres
supplementary contour at lOOm
DLM
RED IAI!U�NADA LMAC
i!A
0
G/Z3loslovo
Red wines predominate and
Piavac Malt 1s the most-planted
grape of the coast, usually savoury,
dense, and powerful in Dingac and
pungent in Postup wines from the
awesomely steep seaside terraces of the
Peliesac Peninsula north of Dubrovn ik But
the discovery that a once-obscure local
variety called Crlj enak Kastelansk1 is not just
a close relative of Plavac Mal t but identical to
Zinfandel - and Puglta's Pr1m1tivo - has
encouraged a fl urry of planti ngs of it.
Crli enak Kastelansk1 means "red grape from
Kastela", a small town near Split; 1t 1s also
known as Tr1 b1drag (and Kratos11a in
neighbouring Montenegro) The more stylish
and scented Babic 1s h1stor1cally hm1ted to
stony seaside fields around the port and
marina of Primosten, between Siben1k and
Split. There is clear pote ntial here.
There 1s currently a small revival of
Malvazija Dubrovacka, first mentioned in
Croatia 1n 1383 and apparently extremely
important in the former independent
republic of Dubrovnik. This variety seems to
be related to the Malvas1a so notable on the
island of Lipari, offSicily, and lends Itselfwell
to sweet wi nes from dried grapes.
The little town ofKaitela
became fa mous in the world
ofwme when its Crljenak
Kai telanskigrape was
proved by DNA analysis
to be identical to
Zinfandel.
The common wh ite
grape of the islands and
the central and southern
coast 1s Marastina - disappointingly
only an alias for the rather neutral
Malvas1a also found in Tuscany. The
characterfu l wh ite grapes ofthe islands
include aromatic Vugava on the tiny Vis,
refreshing Bogdanusa on Hvar, otherwise
almost entirely covered in lavender, and both
prom ising Posip and the celebrated intense
Grk on Koreula. New energy and amb1t1on
came to the island's wine-growers when
native Mike Grg1ch returned in 1996 from his
dazzling career as a founder of Grg1ch Hills in
the Napa Valley. Grg1ch helped to introduce
Americans to Croatian wine, and played a
part 1n what became known as Zinquest, the
search fo r Zinfandel's Croatian roots. As
visitors now know, with Dalmatian food - tmy
oysters, raw ham, gri lled fish, smoky and
omony grilled meats, and mounds ofsweet
grapes and figs - the fire and flavour of the
local wi nes ofthe coast can seem ambrosial.
0
T
E
T

272
Roman ia
Romania is a Latin country in a Slav
sandwich, with closer cultural affinities with
France than its neighbours. These include
its attitudes to wine, although investment
in its wine industry, which shares latitudes
with France, have tended to come from Italy
and, to a lesser extent, Austria.
The Carpathians curl like a giant conch in
the middle ofthe country, moderating the
hot, dry summers of a continental climate
The mountai ns rise fro m the surrounding
plain to 8,500ft (2,600 m) at their peaks, and
enclose the high Transylvanian plateau.
Across the south of the country, the Danube
(Dunarea or Duna) flows through a sandy
plain, turning north towards its delta and
isolating the coastal province of Dobrogea,
moderated by the Black Sea
In Romania, as in the old Soviet Union,
a great planting programme in the 1960s
turnel:I huge tracts of arable land into
vineyard, but in the 1990s and early 2000s
this had shrunk considerably. By 2017, 1t
seemed to have stabilized at 440,000 acres
(180,000 ha). Romania is not one of Europe's
most populated or exte nsive countries
but 1t 1s fifth in terms of area devoted to
the vine, particularly pale-skinned varieties,
and is by far the most important wine
producer of the old Soviet Bloc By no
means all wine produced is serious or
ex portable; about a third of 1t 1s made from
hybrids, and homemade wines are widely
sold illegal ly by the road side. Romanians do
like wine, especially with a bit ofsweetness
Since 2006, Romania has been a net
importer of wine, mainly cheap wine bought
in bulk from Spain and Italy. However, EU
membership has encouraged considerable
investment In Romania's vineyard s and
re latively we ll-run wine ries.
Unlike its neighbours, Romania has retained
sign ificant plantings of 1ts d1st1 nct1ve
indigenous grape var1et1es The most
common is Feteasca Regala (whose ancestry
is not yet flrmly established) and the more
delicate Feteasca Alba. Merlot 1s next,
followed by Welschr1esling, usually labelled
simply Riesling in Romania. Sauv1gnon Blanc 1s
domestically very popular although, hke many
Romanian wines, 1t 1s too sweet for wide
appeal abroad. Ahgote 1s planted in the east
of the country, though few notable quality
producers bottle 1t. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Pinot Gris, and Muscat Ottonel are other
international varieties with a track record in
Romania, and Pinot Gris in particular has
been shipped abroad with great success,
even to Italy after short harvests there.
Tamaioasa Romaneasca 1s the local name
for aromatic Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains,
both dry and sweet. Busuioaca de Bohotin
is a pink- skinned Muscat, usually made as
rose. Other indigenous white wine grapes
of note include CrAmpo§ie Select1onata,
MustoasA de M!derat, Gras!, Francu,a, and
the crossing $arb!.
Romanian Pinot Noir was popular abroad
in the 1980s and '90s, and distinguished
Romania's varietal palette from Bulgaria's .
In 2017, 1t was grown on Just over 4,940 acres
(2,000 ha), but 1s not especially popular with
Romanians themselves, who hke their reds
b1g and dark
Of Romania's own red wine grapes,
B!beasca Neagr! makes hght, fr uity wi nes,
and Feteasc! Neagr!, now planted
throughout the country, produces more
serious stuff. It works we ll In the increasingly
popular red blends, too, not JUSt with Merlot
and Cabernet but with such local specialities
as Negru de DrigA,an1 and N ovae.
Like H u ngary, Romania has one wine whose
name was once fa mous all over Europe But
while To kaj1 struggled on through communism
to re · emerge in splendour, Cotnar1 is now
The vineyards ofPrince $t1rbey, sole producer
of varietal Novae, a recent crossing of the local
Negru Virtos with Georgia's Saperavi.
virtually unknown outside Romania.
H1stor1cal ly, 1t was a botrytized sweet wine
made in the northeast. Most contemporary
exam ples, however, are rather ordinary
medium- dry to medium-sweet whites from
the privat ized state fa rm, although a new
generation of more interesting dry wines is
made by Casa de Vinur1 Cotnari.
The regions
The country today is d1v1ded into eight wine
regions, with 12 PGls (Vin cu lndicat1e
Geograficl) and a dizzyi ng number of DOCs
(Denum1re de Or1gine Controlata).
The Moldovan H ills, to the east ofthe
Carpathians, 1s by far the biggest region,
producing over 40% ofthe country's wine.
T he northern end of the region is white wine
country and local var1et1es predominate.
The most commercially sign ificant DOCs
are Cotnar1 and Cote§t1
Following the curve of the Carpathians, the
Moldovan Hills give way to hilly Oltenla and
Muntenla, the second-biggest wine region anc
one ofthe sunniest. Perhaps the most fa mou1
vineyards are in the Deal u Mare (lrt:erally Big
Hill) DOC, south-fac ing hills at 660-1,150ft
(200-350m) with a temperate continental
climate and source of Romania's most exc 1tlni
reds Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot No1r, fu ll bodl8C
Feteasca Neagra, and also some promising
Shiraz are now grown here. Superior Dealu
Mare producers include Davino, SERVE,
Antinor1 's Viile Metamorfosls, LacertA, Aureh
V1§1nescu, Rotenberg, L1corna W1nehouse, ani
Vinarte. The unctuous, aromatic TAmA1oad.
from Pietroasa DOC (northeast of Dealu
Mare) 1s one white wine speciality of the regio1
In Oltenia, the small but dynamic DOC of
Drigi§anl was revived in the early years of
this century by the original, and pri ncely,

1 37'°00
0
'°
100
UOKln
"'""J,_
_
__..
._
_
..
..,
ti
_
..
..
.
.
_
___.
.
.__,
1
6o
M1
1a
$t1rbey
fa mrly. They
are currently
making fresh, lively
wines of such local grapes
as Crampo§ie Selec�1onata, Novae,
and Negru de Draga§an i, as well as crisp
Feteasca Regala, Muscat, and Sauv1gnon
Blanc. The estate winery Avinc1s and the
much smallerCrama Bauer are $t1rbey's
most interesting neighbours.
The outcrops of Carpathian foothills
scattered through Oltenia and Muntenia each
have their own specialities. The $tefane§t1
DOC is known for aromatic white wines, while
Cabernet Sauv1gnon is the Sambure§t1 DOC's
forte. Crama Opr1§or even fu rther southwest
is owned by Carl Reh of Germany Domeniul
Coroane1 Segarcea, south ofCraiova, is the
revived and replanted former royal estate,
while another, at Corcova, has come fu ll circle,
wrth a renovated wi nery and, once agai n, a
French technical director.
The Dobrogea Hill• on Romania's short
Black Sea coast has the country's sunniest
chmate of all and lowest rainfall. The
Murfatlar DOC has a reputatior:i for soft red
wines and luscious white ones, including
sweet Chardonnays, from exoept1onal ly ripe
grapes grown on ltmestone soils, tempered
by onshore breezes. The Danube Te rrace•
region has only one producer of real note:
BA NAT
UKIAINA
co RI
•.W.
..
-·..
..
..
..
.
•DNt'INO
-
'f'
"OMANIA
27t
Intel'l'l
l
llonal bound1ry
Wine reaton
DOC/O
O
P
Wine townlvllleae
Notable producer
Wine producine area
Landabove10
00
metres
Weather station CWS)
IULGAllA
Ahra, which shares investors with Bulgaria's
Sessa Val ley to the south
Hungarian influence is evident 1n western
Romania. Many of the red wines of Banat have
been made fr om Pinot No1r, Merlot, and
Cabernet Sauv1gnon but the introduction of
Feteasca Neagra and Shiraz promises well.
Cramele Rec&§ 1s the leading producer (and
Romania's most successful exporter, notably
of Pinot Gris), recently challenged by the
organic Petro Vase lo. Feteasca Regala, Pinot
Gris, and Sauv1gnon Blanc dominate white
wine production. To the north, the hills of the
Mini§ DOC 1n Crl9ana and Maramure9 have
almost si ngle- handedly been revived by Balla
Gaza, a Hungarian born In Romania. Hungarian
investors are also behind Carastelec Winery
with its emphasis on sparkhng wine, and
Ge1senhe1m-trained Edgar Brutler 1s foc using
on low· intervent1on wines at Nachb1I.
The Transylvanlan Plateau , meanwhile,
re mains like an island in the centre of the
country: 1 ,500ft- pl us (460 m) above sea level,
cool and relatively rai ny, fa vouring much
fr esher and crisper whites than are
prod uced in the rest of Romania. The giant
ROMANIA: BACAU
Latitude / Elevation of W
46.53° I 604ft (1 84m)
verage growing eas o n temperature at W
60.7 ° F (16"C)
Average annual rainfall at W
23in (587 mm)
Harve t month ra infall at W
August: 2in (52mm)
Principal \ 1ticultural hazards
Spring frost, drought, September rain,
winter fre eze
Principal grape arie tie
W: Feteascll. Regala, Feteasca Alba,
Welschrlesling, Sauvlgnon Blanc, Aligote; R :
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Feteascll. Neagra
J1dve1 operation owns Europe's largest single
vineyard at over 5,930 acres (2,400ha)
Recent investments, including L1liac m DOC
Lechmia and Villa Vinea m DOC Tlrnave,
more than hint at the potential here.
A
i
c
0
J
T
E
F
F
o

•
•
•
c
c
o
JI.
E
[
..
•
..
274
Bulgaria
Bulprla tod-.y Is no great fr iend of the
student of wine 1eography. The vast
majority of wines are labelled either
Thracian Lowlands or Danubian Plain,
accordln1 to whether the grapes were
grown south or north of the Stara Planlna
mountains that bisect the country.
In preparation fo r membership of the EU,
the author1t1es designated 52 geographical
appellations, but few are m use today
Presumably this makes life, and blendmg,
easier for the big companies, but 1t 1s the
smaller enterprises that are providing hope
that Bulgaria will once again be of serious
interest to foreign wine enth usiasts.
In the 1970s and '80s, Bulgarian Cabernet
Sauvignon was a byword fo r val ue. Massive
planti ngs of international varieties on fe rti le
land in the 1950s were or1gmally intended to
pump out a river of everyday wine for the
Soviet Union Bulgarian wine sc1ent1sts did
better than that In the late ;1970s, their
travels m France, Spam, and Italy spaw ned
research institutes and ex perimental
vineyards, and sohd fo undations for a workable
appellation system were also laid. And when
To urists ta the Vafley ofthe Roses,
fa mous fo r its damask roses grown fo r
their attar, or essential oils, can also
sample its perfumed wines: both Red
Misket and Muscat Ottonel as well as
some Cabernet Sauv1gnon.
ltEPUILIKA
H.llJA
ELLADA
(GHICI)
8ULGARIA'S WINE
Rl!GIONS
Grape• .,.
.
1rown virtually
lntern1tlonal bound1ry
-®-
everywhe,.
.
In Bulp.rla,
� Pr1nc1p.11 wine reaion
apart from In th• mountain•
• lltnM Wine town/\1111119
and around the "J)ltal,
Softa. Th- .,.
.
probably
· � Notable producer
I
lnte,.
.
•tln1 distinction•
- Qu1t1ty wlne restons
between different •ubzone1
- Land1bove100
0
metres
but they .,.
.
yettobe
oMcially promulpted .
"W..tl
ler
st.lion (WSl
•I•
PepsiCo arrived, so did California winemakmg
techniques For a while Bulgar1S:s welcoming.
well-made Cabernets were treasured as
cheap and palatable in the West .
But Gorbac hev's 1980s anti-alcohol purge
had a profound effect As the economy
foundered and the market for its produce
shrank, many of the country's vineyards
were simply abandoned. During the
communist era the government had required
vine-growers to belong to state-run
agricultural co-operatives. Once the Iron
Curtai n fe ll, land had to be restored to
whoever owned 1t before World War II, a
cumbersome and protracted process that
1250
0
,00
0
�o
�
��
i-
-�
��
�_.
..
._
_�
��
�-J
Mol.O
·
--
-
-
---
Co nslonto /
I
TURKIYE
BULGARIA: PLOVDIV
Lalitu<lc / E l evation ofWS
42.13° / 587ft (179m)
CHERNO
MORE
(BU.CK SEA}
vcrugc growmg !.ca,o n t(• tnpcrJl ur<' .1 1 \ S
64.9°F (18.3°C)
veragc annual ra mfolJ ut VI '
211n (541 mm)
lfarVl''>l month 1.1111f,d l at W!:>
September: 1 .31n (33mm)
Princ1p,d y1t1niltu1 ,d h,11.1nh
Fungal diseases, winter freeze, hail
Prll
l
t 1p,1I grapL' 1.mel 1c'
R Merl ot , Cabern t Sauv1gnon, Pam1d,
W: Rk tslt II, R d M1sket, Muse t Ottonel

typically re 1ulted in uneconomically small
plots of v1nes that had long been neglected .
Durrng the late 1990s, the wineries and
botthng plants that were once state - owned
were privatized, largely via underfunded local
management buyouts. A series of short
vintages drd not help. Wineries would pay for
grapes to be pic ked early simply to secure
1upphes, and some re sorted to oak ad ditives
rn a desperate atte mpt to distract from the
unripe fr urt The result was a sharp dechne in
wi ne quality, Just as New World producers
were offering serious compet1t1on
The turnaround came 1n the run- up to
Bulgaria's EU accession in 2007 Huge EU
subs1d1es flowed into the wine sector, and
wineries tracked down sometimes hundreds
of smallholders in order to assemble their
own vineyards. Today, most wineries own
theirown vines, and a number of smaller,
private estates have emerged so that
Bulgaria had more than 250 wine producers
by 2018 In 2016, the official total area of w1ne
grapevrnes was 155,469 acres (62,910 ha),
of wh1ch 80% was in commercial holdi ngs
rather than grown for private consumption,
but only 58% was actually harvested. The
many vineyards planted in the early years
ofthis century are now old enough to be
producing well- balanced wines for both
export and the growing domestic market,
where most of the prod uce of the newer
small estates is sold
Many ofthe new producers have serious
quahty (and price) amb1t1ons. They include an
ltahan textile magnate, Edoardo Miroglio,
whose new plantings of Pinot No1r on an
extensive estate at Elenovo in the hills near
Nova Zagora show promise. The French
distr1but1on company Belvedere was a major
force behind the Katarzyna estate near the
Tu rkish border, now privately owned, but the
company (renamed Marie Brizard in 2015)
still owns Domain Menada near Stara
Zagora. Most wineries and winemakers are
thoroughly Bulgarian, however, although
French consultant Marc Dworkin has been
influential, first at Damianitza and then
Sessa Valley in the southwest, while Michel
Rolland ofPomerol has consulted at Te lish's
Castra Rubra winery north of Ly ubrmets.
Wine quality has improved enormous ly.
"9d wine country
Summers are hot in Bulgaria, though a little
cooler m the east and southwest, thanks,
respectively, to influence from the Black Sea
and the Aegean. On the plain 1mmed1ately
-.outh of the Danube (Dunav), and Romanian
border, the climate is fiercely continental.
f:ew Bulgarian vineyards are above 1,000ft
(300m) elevation, except for some m the far
southwest, where the climate 1s much more
temperate than the rest of Bulgaria Winters
can be v1c1ously cold on the Danubian Plain,
whereas they are generally less harsh in the
Thrac ian Lowlands to the south
Bulgaria's most-planted red wme grape is
Meriot, with more than 26,000 acres
(10,500 ha), iust ahead of Cabernet
Sauv1gnon and a long way ahead of the lowly
local Pam 1d. There 1s now a conscious effort
to match variety with terrai n, and to stray
beyond the Bordeaux staples Indeed,
varietal Cabernet Sauvrgnon, the original
staple of Bulgaria's export drive in the 1970s,
is relatively rare today - blends, some
distinctly unusual, being much more popular.
Impressive exam ples of Syrah, Pinot Norr
(especially m the cool northwest), and
Cabernet Franc can be found, as can good
Chardonnay, Trammer, and occasionally
Sauv1gnon Blanc and Viogn rer among whites
Other popular non- native wh ite grapes
include Rkats1teh and Muscat Ottonel.
But apart from the Black Sea coast with
its milder climate, and the southern footh ills
ofthe Stara Plan ma, Bulgaria is real ly red
wine territory
Of the local grape varieties, Mavrud (with
3,366 acres/1 ,362 ha) has rec eived most
attention. This indigenous late-ripening
variety can prod uce strapping, dense reds
suitable for a long life, (m local folklore you
can carry Mavrud in a handkerchief), though
it rs arguably at its best imbuing top blends
(Santa Sarah Pr1vat and Rumeha's Ereha are
two exam ples) with some local personal ity.
Sh1roka Melnishka Loza ("broadleaved vine
of Melnik") 1s another southern special ity,
grown exclusively 1n the hot Stru ma Va lley
r<1ght on the Greek border ove r the Rhodope
aULQAl'U A
271
Bulgarian label nomenclature goes m for
grapes more than any geographical detail.
These Melnik grapes, owned by Orbella, are at
least nameda�er the place they come fr om.
and Prrin mountai ns (the Zapad ni Rodopi
and Pirm Plan r na) It makes scented, ro bust
wines, which can be rather tan mc, but are
sometimes pink and/or sparkling. Some of
rts earl ier- ripening progeny such as Ran na
Melmshka Loza, also known as Melnik 55,
make softer wine.
Rubin, a Bulgarian crossing of Nebb1olo
and Syrah, can also work well. There are
still 2,110 acres (855 ha) of Gamza in the
north of the country, where it 1s usually
produced as simple, fr uity wine for early
drinking Prod ucers such as Borov1tza
have been treating 1t with more re spect,
while others are researching various
Gamza clones
For white wines, the indigenous pink­
skinned Red M1sket (Misket Cherven in
Bulgarian) prod uces soft, lightly grapey
wines that should be drunk yo ung. D1m1at,
or D1myat, known as Smederevka elsewhere,
1s probably Bulgarian in origin and general ly
prod uces fa irly neutral, h1gher·ac1d wine
Producers such as Yalovo, Maryan, and
Karabunar have been experimenting with
extended skm contact and fu ll-blown orange
versions of both these var1et1es Few other
Bulgarian grapes show much potential for
wh ite wine greatness, though Misket
Sandanski, M1sket Vrachanski, Gergana,
and M1sket Va rnenski can yield simple
early dr1nk1ng whites

278
Black Sea and Caucasus
In the western half of this map is a fam ous
19th-century centre of fine wine production
that is an ethnopolitical hot potato today. In
the east is the cradleofviticulture, with an
unusually rich diversity ofgrape varieties.
Moldova
Lyi ng on the eastern border of Romania,
Moldova 1s the ex-Soviet republic with the
most vines, and has by far the greatest tal ly
of vines per capita of any country in the world.
Almost 4% of Moldova is vineyard and 10%
of the working population earn their living
from wine As with all the winelands mapped
here, the total vineyard area has shrunk
considerably since Gorbachev's putsch
against alcohol, and the aftermath of
privatization. Moldova's vineyard area reached
a peak of 593,000 acres (240,000ha) during
the Soviet era. But by 2017, the country had
Just over 200,000 acres (81,000 ha) of v1nifera
vineyards, plus a fu rther 23,700 acres
(9,600 ha) of the hybrid Isabella
H1stor1cally, the Kremlin cellars of the tsars
looked to what was then Moldavia (and once
Bessarab1a) for their finest table wines
Moldova's history has been a tug- of-war
between Russia and Romania Happily for
its (largely Romanian) people, neither side
prevailed and Moldova won the prize of
independence in 1991 Unlike Bulgaria and
Romania, land that had once been thoroughly
collectivized to supply the Soviet Union was
returned in equal parts to the worke rs. By
1999, Moldova had a million landowners,
almost a quarter of the population, with an
average holding of 3.5 acres (1 .4 ha) generally
including vines.
Russia continued to be by fa r the biggest
customer for cheap, sweetish Moldovan wine
but a succession ofdevastating import bans,
followed by an infl ux of foreign aid, weaned
Moldova's wine producers off dependence
on Russia and led to the creation ofthree
appellations (see map). In 2018, there were
more than 100 Moldovan wine producers,
mainly fam ily-run
Moldova has much go ing for it: ge ntle rolling
hills on the same latitude as Burgundy, varied
and vine-friendly topography, and a climate
tempered by the Black Sea. Winters are
occasionally cold enough to kill unprotected
vines, but long-established vineyards in the
best sites enjoy al m ost ideal cond1t1ons.
The great majority of vines are planted in
southern and central Moldova around the
capital Ch1�inau Its most prest1g1ous red,
then and now, 1s Negru de Purcar1, a
memorably striki ng blend of Cabernet
Sauv1gnon, Saperav1, and the Rara Neagra
(Romania's Babeasca Neagra) made
exclusively by the Purcar1 winery in the
$tefan Voda region in the southeast There
1s real potential here as well as in the
southwestern region of Val ul Lui Tra1an.
The most- planted var1et1es are Merlot,
Cabernet Sauv1gnon, Chardonnay, and
Sauv1gnon Blanc. While ind igenous grapes
are so far of minor importance, sparkling
wine has long been produced, aged in some
of the wo rld's most extensive and well­
stocked wine cellars
Ukrai ne
The second most important vine-grower
among the ex-Soviet republics is Moldova's
northeastern neighbour, Ukrame. Most of
Ukrai ne (and Russia) is too cold to ripen
grapes, but even the Phoenicians and ancient
Greeks recognized that the warming effect
of the Black and Azov seas was sufficient to
allow vi n e -growing on their shores. Ukraine
has significant vineyards arou nd the Black
Sea ports of Odessa and Kherson, as well as
in Transcarpath1a, iust 37 miles (60km)
from Hungary's To kaj, where the altitude
compensates for the latrtude. Historical
l
y, the
impo rtant var1et1es were vin1fera - Sauv1gnon
Blanc, Riesling, Welschrleslln&. Furmint, and
The main tower ofthe Mcu.andro
.
winery built
as a Crimean showca•• off#M deuert win•
production In 1894. Fit for a t941' inckH<J
Leanyka - but in the late 20th centllrY many
were replaced by the ubiquitous American
hybrid Isabella. For those involved in the
recently revitalized Ukrainian wine industrY,
the preferred varieties are usually
Chardonnay, Riesling, Aligote, Pinot Noir,
Merlot, Cabernet Sauv1gnon, and Rkats1teh.
Crimea
The Crimean Peninsula 1s the Black Sea wine
region with the most complex history. Crimea
(Krym) became part of the Russian Empire
under Catherine the Great at the end of the
18th centurY. The Mediterranean climate of
its south coast soon made 1t the natural
resort area for the more adventurous
aristocracy. It was developed by the fa mously
rich and cultured angloph1le Count Mikhail
Vorontsov in the 1820s. Vorontsov built a
winery, and later his palace, at Alupka and
founded a wine institute at Magarach nearby.
It continues to be the most important wine
research centre in the ex-Soviet republics,
and specializes in breeding cold-hardy grape
varieties, many of them hybrids
In a precise parallel with what was going on in
Australia atthe same time, Vorontsov began
by 1m1tating as closely as possible the great
wines of France. But his success was limited as
the south coast was too hot, while only 6 miles
(10 km) inland 1t was too cold. Later that
century, however, Prince Leo Golitsyn had
remarkable success making Russia's second­
favour1te drink, sparkling "s hampanskoye", at
his NOVY Svet (New World) estate, JUSt 30
miles (50km) along the coast from Tsar
Nicholas ll's summer palace at Llvad1a.
But the destiny of the Crimea clearly lay in
dessert wines. In 1894, the tsar built "the
world's finest winery" at Massandra, with
Gohtsyn in charge, to develop the potential
of the south coast, a narrow 80-mile
(130-km) belt between mountai ns and sea It
produced strong sweet wines ofall sorts,
which established a fab ulous reputation in
pre-revolutionary Russia They were ca.lied
"Port", "Madei ra", "Sherry", "Tokay", "Kagor"
(a wine named after the French Cahors with
historic status within the Russian Orthodox
church), or even "Yquem", as well as Muscats,
White, Pink, and Blac k . Century-old
Massandra bottli ngs are sttll occasionally
avat lable, and del ectable.
Russia
Most of Russia's vrnes are planted somewhere
on the map opposite, not too far from the
tempering influence of the Black and Caspian
seas on the country's harshly continental
climate. More than halfof them are planted 1n
Kuban (Krasnodar Kra1) in the west, where

IQO
1 t,00
0
.00
0
290
1/io
0z ernograd
ROSSIYA
•LACK SllA AND CAUCA8U8
MOLDOVA TO AZlflllAIJAN
The map 1how1 clearly how valuable maritime
Influence II to vltlcultu,.
.
on the 1hore1 of the
Black and Caspian aeu. It 11 hardly 1urpri1ln1
that vlnH In Ru11la'1 Inland Don re1lon
have to be banked up Heh year to
protect them from freezln1 In winter.
277
TAV ROl'OL
•
stavrof)()/
Budonnovsk
'(.
.
v'if>O Kochube1 0
t
(N
}
T
CHERNOE MORE
(Bl.ACK SEA}
CRIMEA: SIMFEROPOL
Latitude / Elevation ofWS
44.95° I 672ft (205ml
A erage growing ea on tempera ture at WS
61.7°F (16.5°C)
Ave rage annual rainfall at WS
20 in (501 mm)
Harvest month rainfall at WS
September: 1.4in (36mm)
Principal viticultural hazard
Winter fre eze
Principal grape varieties
W: Rkatsiteli, Aligote; R: Cabernet Sauvignon
maritime influence 1s such thatthey survive
most winters without protection. But vines
have to be buried to survive in the Don Valley
and rn Stavropol and Dagestan, where most
grapes are used for brandy.
Whtie the old industrial wineries ofthe
Soviet regi me were rapidly becoming too
obsolete even for reliable bottling, let alone
winemaking, there have been considerable
signs of rncreasrng interest rn modern wine
prod uction, with revam ped old enterprises
such as Kuban Vino and Fanagor1a, and
several new, foreign-infl uenced ones such
as Lefkad 1a and Gai -Kodzor.
The majority of new vines planted are
imported from France, but some growers
have thei r own nurseries where they are
exploring the potential of international
varieties and such indigenous Don Valley
specialities as Ts1mlyansky Cherny (Black
Tslmlyansky), Krasnostop (meaning "red
fo
ot
''), Sib1rkovy, and fre eze-resistant hybrids
$t1Ch as Dostoiny and Cltronny Magarac ha
Georgia's Saperavi also grows well in the
Russian south and 1s one ofthe country's
pnnc1pal red wme grapes, alongside Cabernet
Sauv1gnon and Merlot. The most-planted
white wine varieties are Chardonnay,
Sauv1gnon Blanc Ahgote, and Rkats 1teli.
International boundary
Disputed boundary
KAITLI Wine region
Wine region boundary (Georgia)
• Alusbta Leading wine town/village
Wine-producing area
Land above 150
0
metres
�
Area mapped at larger
�
scale on page shown
� Weather station (WS)
As was long the Soviet tradition, sem1-
rndustrial plants near the major cities process
wines and grape concentrate imported in bulk,
notably through the port ofNovorossiysk,
from all over the world. Unfortunately, both
the resulti ng blends and wines made from
Russian-grown grapes, which constitute about
40% of wines bottled in Russia, may be labelled
"Produced rn Russia". But an EU-hke system of
controlled origins 1s being instituted.
Much of what is imported in bulk caters
particularly to Russians' h1stor1c love of
sparkling and sweet wines Nevertheless,
traditional - method all- Russian exam ples
of fizz can still be found at the Abrau Durso
winery founded rn the 19th century near
Novoross1ysk, in Kras nodar, which has
become an extremely important tou rist
centre, and elsewhere.
In the past, a heavy dose of sweetening,
rn redsJUSt as much as whites, covered a
multitude of winemakrng srns, but as more
and more Russians are exposed to western
infl uences and tastes, not least via the
vibrant restaurant scene rn Moscow and
St Petersburg, Russian taste rn wine 1s
begi nning to favo ur drier styles.
Armenia and A:zerbaljan
The mountai nous former Soviet republic of
Armenia is sandwiched between Georgia,
Tu rkey, Iran, and Azerbaijan. Its population
1s J U St 3 mil hon people, though an estimated
8 m1lhon people worldwide claim Arme nian
descent, ensuring a certain international
114
Klz/f(lr.
,.
.
MORE
"'i
(CASPIAN SEA)
11 •l)erbt:nt
DAmTM' / '
\.
.._
_ �KALA
\HABRA�
fllR\\
\.
� Shamakbl _�
• r1amaxl}
Ba
1
AB HfRO� 0(8a )
K( RDAMIR
demand for Armenian wrne. At least 80% of
the grapes from the cou ntry's 42,750 acres
(17,300ha} of vrnes are still distilled into the
national drink, the grape brandy that was so
prized rn the Soviet Uni on. But this century
1s seeing a revival of the cou ntry's ancient
w1nemakrng culture, one of the world's oldest.
Of the country's 50 wineries in 2018, 30 had
been established within the last 10 years.
One of the most prominent on international
markets 1s the ltahan-Armenian Zorah estate,
rn the hilly Vayots Dzor region rn the southeast
ofthe country. It was the first to demonstrate
that Armenia and its dominant, promising,
indigenous Areni No1r grape can make fine
wr ne - rn this case harness mg trad1t1onal clay
jars known in Armenia as karases. Other
foreign investors have tended to fa vour
international varieties rather than Armenia's
rich heritage of more obscure ones. Te rrain
varies en ormou sly. Some vineyards here are
as high as 5,250ft (1,600 m}. lrr1gat1on 1s
usually a must, and burying vines against
winter freeze common.
Wine production was and 1s important to
Azerbaijan, so close to where Neolithic
evidence of wrne has been found in Armenia.
It 1s not surprising, therefore, that this
mountai nous country in the southern
Caucasus has hundreds of rndtgenous grape
var1et1es. Most widely planted today rn the
vineyards - currently esti mated at 24,700
acres (10,000ha) and increasing every year -
are Bayansh1ra, Madrasa, Sh1rvanshahy,
Kh1ndognr, Meley1, Gara lkeni, and Ag Shirey1.
A
I
D
T
'
T
'
..

278
Georgia
Two hundred years of generally unfr iendly
attention from Russia would be enough to
put most countries In conformist mood.
Not Georgia. Its pos1t1on south of the high
barrier of the Caucasus, a bridge from the
Black Sea to the Caspian and Iran, between
Europe and Asia, was never going to give the
Kartve h people (their proper name; Georgia
is currently considering changing its name
to Sakartvelo) a quiet life. It has forged an
extraord inary national identity, ready
repeatedly to challenge the big bear ac ross
the mountai ns. And a powerful part of th1s
1dent1ty 1s its claim to have invented wine.
Certai n ly, the earl iest archaeological
evidence of winemaking 1s here (or in Armenia,
it depends on the most recent discovery, and
on where Georgia then began and ended)
The date 1s around 6,000 ec. How do we know
the locals dran k wi ne? In traces left in
Neolithic pots decorated with grapes and
vintage scenes, the concentration and
proportions of tartaric and other wine ac ids
is JUSt what you WO Uid expect of v1mfera­
based wine (Noah's vineyard ·on Mount
Ararat, of course, was not far away. ) The clay
Jars are ancestors of the qvevr1 the Georgians
st ill use for fe rmentation today (see panel).
Georgians are notorious for their rehsh
and capacity for wine, seeing a natural
connection between their fa mously long
lives and the potency and nutr1t1onal value
The qvevrr JS ajar like a huge, p ot- bellie d amphora buned in the grou n d . t vint age time everything goes
into 1t mouth. trodden grape , k111 s , st alks, and all, the nmct ure known a chacha. In Kakheti, the usual
practice 1s to maximize both chacha and ageing, in Kartli and fu rther we t, le s o. Tra dit w n a lly, the wine
stays 11
1
the qvevri (or ch uri 111 western Georgia) until a celebratJOn call for s u p p l ies . The r es ult, whether
fe rmented dry or not, i seriou ly tan me, a Lasle to acqmre, but al best is remarkably good , ifd i stin c tive,
wine. Chacha, (grappa in Italian, mare in Fren h), is d1st1lled to make the h1gh - navoured spirit e ential to
a Georgian fe ast .
Qvevrr wine is a distant, particularly Georgian, co usin of the increasing amount of wine made around the
world todaywith prolonged sk111 ontact (for whites well as red ) and rel iance for fermentation and
ageing on a clay ves el rather than wood or sta1nle s tee!. But what di Lingui he qvevri from amphorae
and tin ajas i that fi rs lly the qvevr1 1 permanently buried underground, and econdly, the Georgians put
everyth ing 111to it, ea! 1t, somet ime with clay, when alcoholic fe rmentation and malolactic onver ion are
c o mplet e . This means that no temperature control i n eed ed , and the wine settles and clarifies nalurall .
Theycanbeassmalla 13 Sgal(50I)fordom sl1cconsumptionor a biga 1,000 Sgal(4,000I)11
1
one
of Georgia's bigger wrneries although such massive ve sels are more like! to be used fo r ageing than
fe rment al!on. Qvevri wine m ak11
1
g, on e r egarded as a qua int, fo lklor1 relic, ha become in rea ingly
practi ed and valued as a qu mlessential part of Georgian wine' d1 tm Lio n . The m aj ority of Georgian wine
may bemade mu h more coment1onall::,
,
, but so d1 lincllve is the pro e s that 11 was fo rmally recogn ized
by U E CO 111 2013 as an 111tang1ble heritage". The qvevri b low are near Telmi in Kakhet1,
of Saperav1, the1
1
r very own red wi ne grape.
Visitors to Georgia are routinely surprised
by the warmth, generosity, rrt:ual, and length
ofGeorgian fe asts, led by a tamada
(toastmaster) in which both wine and song
play such an important part
Modern winemaking came to Georgia with
Russian settlers early in the 19th centu ry.
Pushkin preferred the results to burgundy
and Georgian wine has commanded a
premium in Russia ever since. Estates such
as Ts inandali became fa mous. Under the
Soviets, decline was inevitable, but after
independence in 1991 progress was slow
until, ironically, Russia turned vicious and
imposed a ban on imports of Georgian wine
from 2006 until 2013.
International appeal
The collapse of its principal, if none-too­
d1scriminat1ng, market unintentionally
forced the Georgian wine industry to up its
ga me. It inspired a raising of standards
ac ross the board and greater focus, not just
on its d1stinct1ve qvevri winemaking in
wineries big and small but on Georgia's own
grapes: obviously Saperav1 but also pale­
skinned Mtsvane Kakhuri; the characterfu l,
reliably crisp Rkats1teli; and K1s1 for floral
wh ite wines The Georgians claim to have
1dent1fied no fe wer than 525 indigenous
varieties, including the rare Khikhvi of
Kakhet1 that makes fine whites, both dry
and sweet, and the recently rediscovered
Shavkap1to for promising reds. On export
markets the unique character of Georgian
wine has been difficult to ignore. It has played
its part in encouragi ng experimentation
around the globe, with extended skin contact
for white wines to produce wines called
amber in Georgia and orange elsewhere, and
ageing al l manner of wines in clay pots
(tma1as) and amphorae
Playing by the rules of the international
market forced Georgia to delineate regi ons
and subregi ons, and 18 appellations oforigin
are registered with the EU (see map on
p.277). Much the most important ofthe
10 main wine regi ons are Karth and Kakhet1,
both In the eastern halfofthe country
Kakheti, mapped opposite, grows about
70% of all vines and produces roughly 80% of
Georgian wine produced today Spanning the
easternmost foothills of the Caucasus, the
varied terrai n of Kakhet1 1s the home of qvevri
winemaking, and has been subd1v1ded into
three main subregions, with 13 appellations.
Alaverd 1 1s a particularly celebrated ancient
monastery, re habilitated in 2005, where the
monks make ty pical and trad 1t1onal qvevr1
wines Telav1 1s the capital of Kakhet 1, still i n
its ancient walls, and the home of a maior
eponymou cellar
Kartll ( h1 tor1cally known as Iberia) on
flatt r land around the capital, Tb1hs1, 1s

higher, cooler, and windier than Kakheti,
prod ucing fighter wines, some with some
natural spritz, others deliberately sp arkli ng.
This region is where the Neolithic clay
iars were unearthed, and Karth has a
particularly rich array of indigenous
grape var1et1es
Western G eorgia, where the qvevri has
tr•drt1onally been known as churl, fe els
the infl uence of the Black Sea with a less
extreme climate and higher rai nfall lmeretl
In the lowlands has its own grape var1 et1es:
Ts itska and Ts olikour1 are most common
(and are often blended with each other to
make a distinctive white wine). lmeret1an
wines tend to have lively ac 1d1ty and a playfu l
character, usually with less skin contact
than in Kakheti
In the higher Racha and Lechkhumi
regions, north of lmeret1, the growing season
is long and grapes are often picked late,
re sulting in naturally off-dry and semi-sweet
wines. Local var1et1es include Mujuretuh and
Aleksandrouli. In the historical region of
lnternattonal boundary
Region boundary
DIStnct boundary
• TBILVINO Notable producer
Ap
p
1ll1tlon
- Napareul1
� K1ndzmarauh
Ts 1nandah
-
Te han1
- Kvareh
c:
::
::J
Gul)aam
Vaz1subam
- Mukuzanl
4-
Akhashem
Kolekhl
Manav1
Kardenakh1
- libaam
-60
0-
Contour interval 150 metres
KAKHETl'S WINE REGIONS
Four·ftfth• ofall Georgian wine ls made
here in Kakheti, whose appellation
SY$tem Is surpr1emgly Intricate and
developed. All ef tiles• appellations are
registered with the EU, with an ey• to
increasing exports. For the rut of
Georgia, see the map on p 277
,,
Meakhetl (shown on the map as Samtskhe
Javakhet1), south of lmeret1, some vineyards
are as high as 2,950-5,580f't (900-1 ,700 m)
The humid, subtropical Black Sea coastal
areas of Adjara, Gu rla, and Samesrelo, and
Apkhazetl were hlstor1cally fa mous for their
wi nes, the produce of local grape varieties,
and are becoming increasingly significant
wine producers once more.
Saperav1 can make great red wines -
most of them dry nowadays, with lively
tannins and ac idity that keeps them fr esh
in the mouth whether aged in qvevr1 or not
Georgian winemakers are very self-aware,
and compete to ex hibit better and bette r
wines, in both the old style and the new
No one doubts that Georgia's grapes,
its climate, and its temperament have
extraord inary potential. The recent
restoration of the 18th-century princely
domain of Ts inandali by the Silk Road Group
is a significant step Its annual music
fe stival and luxury hotel sym boli ze
Georgia's new d1rect1on.
IOSSIYA
Kart/is Deda, the Mother of Georgia monument
comm1ss1oned to celebrate the coun try's 1, 500th
anniversary, holds a bowl ofwine to greet fr iends,
as well as a sword to meet enemies.
I 763,00
0
DEDOP�ISTSKARO
/
Ta nban.°
0
T
E
T
F
G"

280
Greece
The financial turmoil, wildfires, and
political haze suffered recently by Greece
have at least been good for the long-term
health of Its wine industry. Seeing their
principal, sometimes only, market
disappear has encouraged producers to
make their wines thoroughly exportable.
Greek script on labels has been re placed or
supplemented by the common Latin
alphabet And there 1s now much more
widespread awareness of how to make the
most of the unique attributes of Greek
vineyards and cellars.
Fortunately, Greece is particularly well
placed to offer just what the world's wme
enthusiasts now seek: intriguing indigenous
grape varieties, a wide variety of terro1rs,
refreshmg wines with a history and a story,
and art1sanal winemaking methods Greece
has been doing all this since ant1qu1ty.
Yet Greek wine 1s still widely misunderstood
Far from being too hot and dry to prod uce
good -quality wine, most of Greece (like much
of Italy) 1s mountainous and infe rtile, with only
a small percentage of low flatland with rich
soils, land routinely reserved for more
lucrative crops. The wine regions' combination
of h 1gh elevation, steep slopes, complex
topography, and unpredictable rainfall is
responsible for some fa sc inating, ifsometimes
demanding, natural conditions. In Naoussa
1n Macedonia m the north of Greece, some
vintages are cr1t1cally plagued by ram and rot,
while some of the many north-fac ing vineyards
can have trouble ripen ing the fruit at all
Some wines made m cooler vintages on the
Mant1nfa plateau m the Pe loponnese 1nter1or
(see p.283) have to be deacidified Most
Greek wme regions wou ld actually qualify by
most measu res as cool climate.
The new era for Greek wme began m the
m1d-1980s with the return of a handful of
agronomists and oenolog1sts from formal
training in France. An infl ux of fu nds from
both the EU and ambitious md1v1duals
allowed them to upgrade technology in some
of the larger negoc1ants (notably Boutari and
Kourtak1s) and to establish a host of new,
much smaller wineries in cooler areas where
land was relatively cheap Their successors,
m thoroughly modern wi neries, are JUSt as
likely to have learned their skills m Bordeaux
or California as in At hens and are making
wines that are aeo ns away from the oxidized
fe rments once typical of Greek wme And not
prod ucing much in the way of bulk wme has
helped Greece's reputation for wines with
real local character.
The revitalized Greek wme industry initially
focused on the then- buoyant domestic
market, fo r which imported grape var1et1es
had a certai n glamour. But the Cabernet
Sauv1gnon planted enthus1ast1cal ly at one
ti me 1s now seen as distinctly old hat - and
native var1et1es have been so enthusiastical ly
embraced that nowadays the wme trade is
lookmg, for exam ple, for the "new
Malagous1a" Only the wine-producing giants
ofSpam, Franee, and Italy have a greater
array of native grape var1et1es m production .
Mainland Greece
Northern Greece 1s the area with the most
unrealized pote ntial - and where the Greek
wine revolution was heralded prophetical ly
m the 1960s at Chateau Carras (now called
Domaine Porto Carras) Physically, the Greek
regi on of Macedonia (to the 1mmed1ate south
of North Macedon ia described on p.26TI
relates more to the Balkan land mas
s
than to
the Aegean limbs of Greece. This is red wine
country, dominated by one variety,
Xyn6mavro, whose name ("acid black")
denotes sourness, but whose slow-matur10f
wines are some of the most 1mpress1ve in the
co untry. Naoussa 1s the region's most
important appellat ion. With age, the best­
made Naoussa wines can acq uire a bouquet
as haunting as all but the finest Barolo - and
the wines tend, like Barolo, to be relattvely
pale. There is snow on the slopes of Mount
Ve rm10 in winter, but summers are so dry
that irrigation 1s essential . The land 1s
sufficiently varied and extensive for individual
crus to deserve ident1ficat 1on.
Goumenissa, lower on the slopes of Mount
Paiko, prod uces a slightly richer version of
Naou ssa. Amindeo on the northwest-facing
side of Mount Vermio 1s so cool that it can
produce aromatic whites, a denominated
Xyn6mavro rose, and good sparkling wi ne. In
the windy, lake- influenced region not far from
the border with North Macedonia, Alpha
Estate produces a fine, dense, consistent,
cool-climate Xyn6mavro blended successfully
with Syrah and Merlot, as well as excellent
aromatic whites.
An increasing number of international
var1et1es have been grown around Kavala
Biblia Chora makes super-zesty, mainly
white blends, and in Drama, in the far
northeast of the country, Lazar1di (both
Costa and N ico), Pavl1dis, and Wine Art are
exam ples of modern Greek confidence in
wine Gerovass11iou of Epanomi, JU St south
of Thessalonik1, originated the current
fas hion al l over Greece for the perfumed
white Malagousia and has more recently
experi mented with Mavrotragano and
Llmnio for deep-coloured, firm reds.
Zltsa is the only appellation in Ep1rus in
the northwest, with Debma the most­
planted white grape for still and fizzy dry
wi nes Ep1rus has Greece's highest vines at
Metsovo, at nearly 4,000ft (1,200 m), and
the oldest Cabernet Sauv1gnon, planted at
Katog1 Averoff m 1963.
Thessaly's potential 1s huge but sti ll not
fu lly realized The recently rescued dark­
skmned L1mniona 1s just one of the rare but
intriguing indigenous grapes grown here .
Rapsani 1s the area's fla1ship red appellation,
based on X1nomavro that tends to be riper
than in cooler Naoussa.
Central Greece IS dominated by negoclants
and co-ops The trad itional Athenian wine,
from the capital's backyard, Attica (Attlk1), 1s
Tr ained vines on th• windswept, volcanic
tourist magnet that I• the Island ofSantorml
.Assyrt1ko 1s th• obvlously noble domin ant
variety but local specialities Athlr1 and A1darn
have their own personal/tJH, too

SHQIPhlsKf
(
AUAN IA);
r
--
t
1
IONIOI
NISIA
®
I
GREECE: PATRAS
Latitude J Elevation of WS
38.25° / 3ft (1m)
Average gro11.ing sea on tempera ture at ·ws
70.1 °F (21.1 °C)
veragc annual rai nfall at WS
26in (658 mm)
Harvest month rn1nfoll at WS
August: 0. 2in (5mm)
Pt incipaJ vi lic ultur.i l hazard
Drou ght, sudden storms
Pri nupal grape vunct 1e�
W: Savatlano, Rodit1s; R : Aglorg1tiko
IULGA llA
.
QfHICI
281
I
i/TOIKIYI
(
5omothr6k1
Cll11/l(,FQR(,J0l
llM �O>
�f11111os
l IM\O\
()Ag1os Elstr6t1os
.
)
fl
VOREiO I • 'ldsvo
AIGAiO
MIT
T
llYMMJ �,)
Psor6
.'O
Aigoion
Pelogos
"
( lkaria
- • - International boundary
Prcw1nclal boundary
..li!.M.
.
Protected Deslanation of Origin :PDOl
• NnWa Wine town/village
•l.AIA
-
Not.able procluc,er
W1ne-procfucln8 area
Land above 100
0
metres
Weather station {WS)
cm:
::
:J
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
KmO
Mile.0
1 3,825,00
0
'°
100Km
'°Mo!.
.
m1KI
I Gl!OllGAS
5enfos C)
f'ti
ros
/:9
"
R
A
!Tl
CJ:.
P�RO�
1
,
Sifnos5t> �
�ro<0s
2ANASTASIAl'RAGOIJ
3PAPAG�
iGRE
EI
WINECE1.1ARS
N6r10 1 <9.Aio �morgos
'
-
;
I
f
{h_
M
O�l \IV AMA �)\L \\SI\
�
Kithir a
/
.Z
tl/
\.
..
.._
_/
GREECE'S WINE REGIONS
Pelagos
Notable wine producers cluster on Crete,
where there has been a quiet wine revo lution
recently; around At hens, for obvious reasons;
and In Naoussa, where the terrolr proved many
years ago so very propitious for top-quahty
reds worth ageing
•I•
los
�slip6/ea
AR, ROS
AIITEMIS KARA IOLEGOS
(,Al,\
ILll"l
l
DWS
1Eil
l'O&'CAN
A\A CHRYSSOU
--- -\,
\.
\
\.
l\\
0
R�
OOS
CAIR
=9
�
R
6dos
(
Rhodes)
Readers with an interest m archaeology
should v1s1t the remains of the Minoan
settlement at Vathjpetro, which include
a wine press that is more than 3,500
years old
E
r
'
o

282
GREECE
rets ina, the curious re sinated fe rment that
for so long dogged Greece's vinous
reputation In fact, fr esh, well-made retsina
can be as appetizing and 1diosyncrat1c as a
good ftno sherry, and goes perfectly with the
vivid flavou rs and text ures of Greek food oily
taramasalata, l ittle grilled squid, stuffed vine
leaves, and tzatziki Attica 1s the country's
single biggest wine region, with 14,800 acres
(6,000 ha) under vine, mostly on the arid,
infertile plain of Mesoge1a. An increasing
number of ftne unresinated wines are now
made in Attica, although Savat1ano, the base
for rets ina and the cou ntry's most widely
planted vine variety, ac counts for 90% of
plantings. Old Savat1ano vines can make
surprisingly good whites that can age for at
least ftve years, but the produce of you nger
plants 1s less inspiring.
Th• l•land•
Of the Greek islands the southernmost,
Crete (Krit1), Is much the biggest wine
producer, and the Island's once-moribund
wine industry has recently attracted
muc h - needed fu nds and enthusias m . The
best vineyards are re latively high, and many
growers have started investing In al most
ext inct varieties, the firm of Ly rarakis in
particular making fine varietal V1d1ano,
Plyto, and Dafnl. Way to the northwest of
the Greek mainland In the Ionian Sea,
Cephalonia (Kefallonia) and its neighbour
Zante (Zak1 nthos), with its own lively red
Avgoust1at1s grape, come next in
importance, especially for fresh wh ite
Robola and Tsaoussi, as well as for imported
grapes Corfu, though, 1s not an island for
wine connoisseurs .
In the Aegean, several islands make sweet
wines of Muscat Samoa 1s the best and
most fa mous, and the prime exporter,
with utterly clean yo ung wines and some
tempting oak-aged ones, virtually all made
from the small-berried Muscat Blanc.
Lemnoa (Um nos) makes both dry and
sweet M uscats . Paro• grows M onem vas1 a .
Mand1laria 1s another tough island red grape
found on Paros, Crete, and R h od es. Its
wines can lack con centrat ion. On Rhodes
(R6dos) white wine 1s more important than
red and even its sparkling white has built
something ofa name The med1um-bod1ed
white Ath 1r1 has recently made some
remarkably elegant whites, both still and
sparkling, grown at high altitudes By 2018,
Tl nos , an island on which not a single wine
was bottled at the turn ofthe century, had
s ix particularly interesting wineries, of
which T- Olnos 1s the best .
Of all the islands, however, Santorl nl , in
the southern Aegean, 1s the most original,
compelling, and best- k nown outside Greece.
Its potent, intense, and very dry wines,
Beautifully trained vmes at Alpha Estate m
Amindeo m winter, a scene that beltes Greece's
reputation as a warm-climate wme producer.
The wmes do, too.
white, scented with lemon and minerals, are
made mainly from ancient Assyrt1ko vines,
trained in little nests cro uching on the
windswept heights of th1s dormant volcano.
Rainfall is just 11 .8 in (300mm) in a good
year, so the grapes are small and thick­
skinned, all that character packed into thern
being leached out into the wine during
fe rmentation S1galas, the wines of the lab
Har1d1mos Hatzidak1s, and Gala's Thal assltia
are all fine exam ples that can age for at
least a decade. The island also produces •
particularly rich, fine Vinsanto, made mainly
from Assyrtlko, that deserves International
recogn ition. As the choice of the Russian
church for mass, and vital to the island's
livelihood, Its prod uction was even
permitted by the Ottomans, it en gend ered
usefu l taxes. The problem on Santor1nl 1s
not a shortage of winemaking enthusiasm
and ingenuity but that the thriving tourist
business has pushed up land prices, calling
into question the very survival of these
extraordinary vineyards, whose produce Is
so d istinctive and so obviously superior that
Assyrt1ko cutt1n1s have been planted as far
afield as Australia

QlltllCI Hi
Peloponnese
of the dry wines contrast wrth the region's
trad1t1onal sticky Muscat and Mavrodaphne
The northern half of the Peloponnese,
mapped here, Is rlvalled only by Macedonia
aa a hotbed of activity by a determined
new 1eneratlon of wine producers. It 1s
beautiful, fu ll of ancient sites, and easily
•cc essible from Athens . No wonder
Nemea, in the east, 1s the most important
appellation, making luscious red wines
exclusively from Ag1org1tiko (St George)
Jrapes grown in such varied terrai ns that
areas such as Kouts1, Aspr6kambos, G1mn6,
anc ient Nemea, and Psar1 have already
•arned their own reputation s. Nemea has
M.1lder winters and cooler summers than one
11'1
1
ght expect of this latitude, thanks to the
lflfluence of the sea (and rai ns that can
threaten the harvest). It can be roughly
divided into three zones. The fe rtile red clays
:ofthe Nemea valley floor produce perhaps
the least ageworthy wines. The mid-elevation
zone seems best-suited fo r the most
modern, richest, most dramatic styles,
although even here there 1s wide var1at1on in
character. And some vineyards inthe highest
zo ne, some as high as 2,950ft (900m), which
were oncethought fit only for rose production,
Kolpos
,,
are now prod ucing some fine, elegant,
refres hing, very 21 st- century reds. For the
moment, a single, all-encom pass ing
appellation seems far too capacious and
1mprec1se, however commercially al luring
The Mantlnla plateau in the centre ofthe
area mapped is only a 30- minute drive from
Nemea, yet 1s much cooler - a testament to
Greece's extreme topography. It 1s fa mous
as the home ofthe delicate, scented
Moschofi lero grape, which at its best makes
an ethereal ly floral wine. Sparkling versions,
notably from Ts elepos, can also be del icate
and convincing Like so many amb1t1ous
Greek producers, Ts elepos grows a range
of international grape var1et1es, too.
Patra, in the far north, is predomi nantly
a white wine region and source of the best
Rodit1s, the principal grape grown there.
A rich repository of indigenous var1et1es
promises much for the future. Antonopoulos
is already making an exciti ng mineral ­
scented white from the red iscovered
Lagorthi grape. Tetramythos' speciality 1s
Mavro Kalavr1tino, while Parparouss1s makes
fine S1derit1s. The restrai ned, precise styles
- which have the potential to be every bit as
fine as the fa mous Muscat of Samos, 1f made
with more care. Some very old Acha1a Clauss
bottlings can be sublime, wh ile more recently
Parparoussis is a re liable source oftop ­
quality Patras Muscat and Mavrodaphne.
Much is sti ll expected ofthe relatively new
Monemvula-Malvula appellation in the
south of the Peloponnese (see the map on
p.281 ), spearheaded by the Monemvas 1a
Winery. The aim 1s to re mind the world of
wine of past, sweet glories shipped from this
medieval port, thought to have inspired
the grape name "Malvas1a" (Malmsey 1s a
derivation). The main grapes are varying
proportions ofKydonitsa, mean ing "q uince
like'', Monemvas1a, and Assyrt1ko.
Although the Peloponnese has trad1t1onally
been focused on wines from the established
regions, this 1s slowly changi ng. Newer
prod ucers from less obvious corners of the
peninsula, such as Ilia or Messinia, are making
1mpress1ve wines from varieties such as
Assyrt1ko and Malagous1a that were made
fa mous in other parts of Greece. They are
also discovering and reviving local, almost
exti nct but promising varieties such as red
Mavrost1fo and white Tinaktorogos .
I 1 ,390.00
0
KmO
10
20
30
..0
50Km
•I•
i-
-
�--..
..
.
..
..
..
�..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
�..
..
..
.
Molo.O
10
20
30Molo
o
Il
ly
topradac11
11
•...
..
lNl!Ml!IO
N
mATI!
2L0
01Dl
lS
JSIMBU
�7AIJIAl
lLIS
5GAIA
6Wl
l
O'l1S
7�
•Dl
lOPI
9MITIAVBL
l5
10llAIWTIS
IIAIWJS
12OO
Ol'l
ll
lATM!
WINl!l
ll'
OPNl
lltl
l!A
13IVAIO.IN
NOl
l
Al'AIJVOS
Provincial boundary
PAl RA Protected OeslfJlabon ofOri&ln (PDOJ
• Ntmtltl Notable wine town/v1Jlage
•TSl
ll.BPOS
Notable producer
Land above 100
0
metres
A
I
D
T
E
T
f
o

A
•
0
'E
284
Cyprus
In the Middle Ages, Cyprus was fa mous
for producine the best of all sweet wines -
the ancestor of the ralslny Commandarla
that Cypriots claim is the oldest named
wine in continuous production. Recent
archaeological evidence proves that the island
was producing wine as long ago as 3500sc.
It was the crusaders' favo urite wine, but
the Ottoman Empire was not 1n fa vour EU
membership in 2004 provided Cyprus with
a new start . In place ofthe subsidies that used
to be paid for exporting vast quant1t1es of
nondescript wine in bulk to manufacturers of
cheap drinks, more than 6 million euros m EU
subs1d1es have gone on grubbing up the worst
vineyards, planting new ones, and establishing
wineries in the mountai nous interior. The total
area of vineyard has shrunk to under 20,000
acres (8,000ha), mainly on the southern
slopes ofthe Troodos Mountai ns, where
altitude can compensate for latitude, with
cooler nights making better quality viticulture
possible. The best vineyards he at elevations
of 1 ,980-4,950ft (600-1,500 m)
In the old days ofcheap Cyprus "sherry",
the island's wine industry was dominated by
four big wineries near the port of Umassol,
but all that has changed. Today, there are
around 60 small to med1um-s1zed wine
prod ucers and only one real ly large
enterprise, the grower-owned SODAP
co-operative, whose wines are now reliable
and inexpensive. The focus 1s firmly on
qual ity rather than quantity and the best
prod ucers, such as Vlassides, Zambartas,
Argyr1des, Kyperounda, Vo um Panayia,
Ts1akkas, Vas1hkon, and Aes Ambehs, are
making dry table wines with increasing
confidence from their own vineyards or from
growers with whom they work closely The
Cypriot wine scene 1s enlivened by the fact
that most winemakers are overseas trai ned,
open minded and, often, yo ung But 1t has
CYPRUS
To satisfy EU req uirements, a controlled appellation
scheme has been developed, althou1h It has so far been
little used . Wines carrying the name of one of the four PGI
re1ions - Pafos, Lemesos, Larnaka, and Lefkosla -
account for nearly half of production.
•Anor
Wine village
..lil2L PGl/reglonal wine
Il
ly
to PDDs
PDON/ine of Controlled
Appellation of Origin
Land above 100
0
metres
1 LAONAAIAMA
2 \IOIJNIPJINAYIA·AMPBUDS
3PITSILIA
4OOMMANl
lARIA
5DASOCl
lO
RIAUlME!IOUAPAMl!S
6 KIWOa!ORIALIMl
lSOV
-LAONA
7llWiOCl
lOl
lA
UlME!IOU
11,513,00
0
KmO
10
20
30Km
Mo'lo
o
O
10
20Ml
lo
o
been affected by Greece's financial cr1s1s and
its effect on tourism and land prices
Drought 1s another perennial problem.
Direct producers
Unusually, Cyprus has never been invaded by
phylloxera, and its ungrafted vines are still
protected by strict quarantine, which slowed
the introd uction of international var1et1es.
This 1s perhaps no bad thing, for there are
still many truly ancient vines in the island's
vineyards, among them some l ong-forgotten
grape var1et1es. Already red iscovered are
Yiannoud1, Morokanella, Promara, and
Spourtiko However, al most half of the
island's wine-grape vineyards re main planted
with the ind igenous and rather unexciting
grape Mavro, so common that its name
simply means " black". Zambartas has
demonstrated that centenarian Mavro vines
can produce fairly interesting wine, al beit
with very low yield s . The local, usefully
dro ught- resistant Xyn ister1, planted on a
fu rther quarter of the total, can make
reasonably crisp wh ites. Most ofthem are
best drunk in their youth but some more
complex examples are being made from more
prop1t1ous vineyards and/or h1gh-elevat1on
sites. Shiraz (sic) has overtaken Cabernet
Sauvignon (which 1s declining), Cabernet
Franc, and Carignan as the most significant
incomer for red wine, having proved
especially well-suited to the island's hot, dry
terrain . The indigenous Maratheftiko 1s
making quite impressive reds fro m better­
managed vineyards, while tan nic Lefkada can
ad d a touch of local spice to blends. Varietal
Lefkadas are also emergi ng.
Still the most individual of Cyprus wines
1s the hquorous Com mandaria, made of
sun-d ried Mavro and Xynister1 grapes.
The wine has a protected appellation, or
PDO, and 1s grown in 14 designated villages
on the lower slopes of the Troodos
Mountains. It must be aged for at least two
years in oak, although this no longer has to
take place w1th1n the PDO zone. Adding
sp1r1t 1s also optional now Ts iakkas,
Kyperounda, Aes Ambelis, and Anama
Concept have al l produced lighter, fre s h er,
more modern versions of Commandar1 a.
The age of Commandarias on the market
vari es enormously, but all of the best have
1 haunting, very 1ndiv1dual graplness that
� xplams their ancient reputation, and could
�.ve them a future Price• can be keen
Dark·skinned Mavro and Ught-skmned Xyn ister1
qrapes laid out to dry In th• aun at Karseras
winery tn Doroa, aouth Qf'Mount Olympus

Turkey
Despite onerous taxation, powerful
Muslim Influences, and lncreuln1
r.strlctlons on the aal• of alcohol, Turkey
has been fe rmentln1 a win• culture In
recent years. The country has always had
�of the world's most extensive areas of
vineyard, but the proportion of grapes made
Into wine 1s st ill only about 2% The rest are
eat en, fresh or more commonly dried, or find
their way into raki, the country's anrseed ­
flavou red sp1r1t that 1s at least as popular
with Tu rks as wine.
Ifthe wine industry today is hampered bythe
lack ofa flourishmg domestic market, 1t came
to Western Europe's rescue at the end ofthe
'19th century, when Tu rkish vineyards were
some of the last to be laid waste by phylloxera.
Kemal Ataturk, founder of the secular
republic, built state wineries in the 1920s in
the hope ofpersuading his people of the
virtues of w1ne, thereby ensuring the survival
of ind1genous Anatolian grape var1et1es. For
many years Tu rkish wine was undistinguished,
but tourism, the abolition of a ban on imports,
and the early 21st-century pr1vat1zat1on of the
state monopoly (whose wines were rebranded
Kayra and hugely improved) ushered in a new
era. A new generation of smaller wine
estates was established from the 1990s and
initially focused on international grapes, but
there has since been a re-evaluation of
indigenous varieties amongthe 164 wineries
registered m 2018.
Turkey 1s spht into the seven geographical
regions shown on the map. There are vast
differences m culture, climate, and geography
t
tntemat1onal boundary
AEGEAN Wme region (unoff1c1all
• B1azil Wme town/village
• DIREN Notable producer
Wine-producing area
C:
:J
Land aboYe 150
0
metres
TURKEY'S UNOFFICIAL
WINE REGIONS
URIA
One country, but vast variat ion in climate and
culture. The Thracian hinterland of Istan b ul Is
Mediterranean in both respects, while Eastern
Anatolia, close to the birthplace of viticulture, 1s
v1c1ously continental, and strictly Muslim - n ot
an obvi o us combination fo r wine production .
but most are suitable for vitic ulture More
than 40% of the country's wineries, but a
much smaller proportion of vineyards, are
based m Thrace- Marmara In the hinterland
of Istan bul. T his Is the most European part
of the cou ntry m every way, including its
varied, wine-fr iendly soils and warm coastal
Mediterranean climate, which are s1m1lar to
those of Bulgaria's Blac k Sea coast to the
north. International grapes are grown here,
but there 1s increasing interest m the local
Papazkaras1. The islands J U St south of here,
virtually within sight of what could have been
the ancient city of Troy, also have their own
vine varieties recovered by ambitious
producers such as Corvu s.
The part of Tu rkey that makes the most
wine is the Aegean region m the hinterland
of Izmir, so rich in classical relics and
remains . The country's first wine route 1s
based round the coastal resort ofUria, just
west of the port. White wines have tended
to be made from M1sket (small- be rried
Muscat) and Sultanlye (Sultana), grown
mainly for eating and drying but also vm1fied
into clean, fr esh, 1f rather neutral wines,
although Sevilen makes a fine, h1gh-alt1tude
Sauv1gnon Blanc Promising vineyard s for
the Pendore proiect, ad vised by Stephane
Derenoncourt of Bordeaux, have been
developed fu rther inland by Tu rkey's biggest
prod ucer, Kavaklidere.
L1kya pioneered wmemakmg near Antalya on
the south coast's Mediterranean region,
better known for tourism than wine. And
Diren 1s the only prod ucer of note 1n the
northeast near Tokat m the Black Sea region,
where the pale grape Narmce 1s a speciality.
The rest of Tu rkey's wine is grown in the
high -altitude vineyard s of Central Anatolia
(about 17% oftotal production), and
Eastern and Southeastern Anatolia, which
together grow around 1 2% ofall Tu rkish
wine, ty pically on smallholdings with iust a
few rows of vines . Kavakhdere has long had
its headquarters in the capital Ankara m
Central Anatolla, where there are now
several other wineries. Its new vineyard
area, called C6tes d 'Avanos, 1s in the
bizarre, bleak, vo lcanic landscape of
Cappadoc1a, where wine has been made,
at elevations up to 3,280ft (1,000 m), since
the time ofthe H1tt1tes The firm, fresh
Emir 1s the local white wine grape The town
of Kalec1k in north Central Anat olia gives
its name to the cherry-like, fr uity Kalec1k
Karas1 grape, one ofTu rkey's popular
fa vourites, grown at 2,300ft (700 m) ma
continental climate moderated by the long
KJZ1llrmak River
Eastern and the much less important
Southeastern Anatolia have few wineries
and suffer such harsh winters that vines
have to be banked up to protect them from
fat al subzero temperat ures. Kayra's large
red wine fac ility 1s m Elaz1�. Eastern Anatolia,
and m the depths of Southeastern Anatolia,
the Sh1luh winery, founded in 2003, makes
natural wines accordmg to 1,000-year-old
local traditions. But most of Anatolia's
characterful grapes are shipped west for
vinrficat1on - which can pose problems m the
heat of a Tu rkish summer. The most popular
fine red wine grapes, both probably from
Elaz1� m Eastern Anatolia original ly, are
Okuzgozu (meaning "bull's eye" ) and the
rather more tan nrc Bo�azkere They were
trad1t1onally blended together, but the
former 1s now grown all over Tu rkey and 1s
the country's most-planted grape variety.
1 9.85000
0
Km0
100
20
0
30
0
Km
i-
-
�� ----.�--��
..
..
.
Molo
o
0
100
20
0
Milo
o
KA RADEN/l (BLACK SEA)
Muso
,,
5.
-,
D
T

•
..
.
0
T
286
Lebanon
If pressed to name a wine from the Eastern
Mediterranean, many drinkers would cite
Chateau Musar of Lebanon, which, war
notwithstanding, somehow continued to
produce dry-farmed Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cinsault, and Carignan blended into an
extraordinarily aromatic red - like exotic
Bordeaux, long-aged before sale and
capable of ageing for decades after.
Musar, however, 1s an anomaly. Like the
ma1or1ty of Lebanese wines, Musar's red and
wh ite blends are powerful (perhaps too much
so for some tastes), concentrated, and iust
what you wou ld expect from a hot, dry
country whose vines are virtually disease-free
and which has around 300 days of sunshine a
year But with their high level of volatile
acidity, exceptionally late release dates (1t 1s
still possible to find Musars from the 1950s
for sale), and an apparent ab1hty to age almost
mfinrtely, Chateau Musar operates outside
today's wine norms
Virtually all other Lebanese wines are much
more conventional. While Musar, and its
unforgettably impish ow ner Serge Hochar,
who died m 2014, undoubted ly put Lebanon
on the map, a new wave of producers are
also winning ad mirers abroad They have
to . Arak, the local aniseed-flavoured sp1r1t,
rs the Lebanese drrnk of choice.
At the turn of the centu ry, there were 14
wine producers m Lebanon. By 2018, there
were 50, most making no more than 50,000
bottles a year but all of them iniecting
winemaking life into an unlikely location.
Chateaux Kefraya and Ksara are by fa r the
biggest producers and rt was Ksara, founded
by Jesuits rn 1857, that was the birthplace of
modern wine production rn Lebanon. C1nsau lt,
Grenache, and Carignan vrnes were imported
from Algeria and these warm-ch mate
varieties are now considered the true
signature grapes of the Bekaa Valley, where
most Lebanese vines are grown
In the 1990s, hke most other wrne regions,
Lebanon was in th ral l to a handful of
international vine varret1es - and the local
market has continued to val ue concentrated
Cabernets rn heavy bottles But among wine
WIH "'*" (un1fl
l
ol11)
Batroun
- Bekaa Valley
International boundary
-
Governorate boundary
•r.ull
ll
lW
Nol
l
ble producer
l.Jlnd above 100
0
metres
11100.00
0
Km0
2$
'°
Km
MlaD
��
�
���� -"�
�
���
25
�
Mlo
o
�--l
producers there Is a move towards more
transparent, refreshing, and "Lebanese"
old-vine Cinsault-based reds. Grenache and
Carignan will surely be re-evaluated, too.
Belle-Vue rn the mountain village of Bhamdoun.
H igher-elevation Chardonney, Sauvlgnon
Blanc, and V1ognler, in particular, can work,
and there is increasing interest in the
The Bekaa Valley, nowadays home notiust
to tribes of Bedouins but refugees from Syria
just across the border, continues to be the
epicentre of the modern wine industry, with
the ma1or1ty of the vineyards rou nd the
western Bekaa towns of Qab Elias, Aana,
Am1q, Kefraya, Mansoura, Deir El Ahmar, and
Khirb1t Qanafar There are also vineyards in
eastern Bekaa rn the hills above Zah le, where
vrnes are planted as high as 5,900ft (1 ,800m),
as well as in the even more arrd regions of
Baalbek (home to the fa mous, much- restored
Te mple of Bacchus) and Hermel. The elevation
of the Bekaa, generally above 3,280ft
(1,000 m), helps to cou nteract excessively
sun- baked flavours in the grapes grown there.
The extremely low rainfall means that most
vineyards are effectively grown organ ically.
And there rs certainly no labour shortage, so
all grapes are hand-prcked.
local Obe1deh and Merwah varieties that
have always featured in Chateau Musal"''s
esotel"'rcally long-hved, deep·coloul"'ed
w hites. Thel"'e are also plantings ofMuscat
d'Alexandr1e, Cla1 rette, and Semlllon.
Massaya (set up by an impressive
triumvirate from Bordeaux and the Rheine),
Domaine Wardy, and Chateau St Thomas are
all serious, second-genel"'ation enterprises.
They have been Joined by a resul"'gent
Domaines des To urelles (it was founded m
1868 but fe ll into decline during the wal"'), as
well as the newer Chateau Khoury, Domaine
de Baal, and Chateau Marsyas. The miracle is
not that they have flourished but that they
exist at all in the chronic state of uncertainty
in which they have to operate.
In war-torn Syl"'la itself is Domai ne de
Bargylus, located rn the Jabal an-Nu�ayriyah
mountai ns above the northern Syrian pol"'t
city of Latakia. The owners, the Saade
brothers who also own Chateau Marsyas in
Lebanon, have effectively to make wine by
telephone, but somehow manage to produce
an exceptional red and white.
A notable and extremely vigorous exception
is the d1str1ct of Batroun 1n the north ofthe
country Here, the shiny, eco -fr rendly IXSIR
wi nery has been ioi ned by other, even newer,
small wi neries, all with an ad mirable sense of
unrty. The wineries in the
Mount Lebanon region in
the west are rather
tDOMDEBARGYL� (Syn )
more disparate but
include the highly
regarded Chateau
oChekko
Kusba
0S1b'il
Amiouno
0
NORTH
LEBANON
I'
0 lhndin
)
Bchorre
/
�
o sio
'-.
..
.,-
-)·
,
'
o,.A lnoto
•01BARM
��
�
llU
llOM DES ciID
• COIJ\F.1
11'
ROl'G[
Dei r EIOl
l
CH !SMC
G!ortobo0 Al Aqurog
lbrah•m
'
"
.-J0
.
"
Ah mar
IW,\011 1
'
O
LUB N AN ,}.,'O BAALBEK-HER EL
(LEBAN0 N l ..../ "
01 MUMR •
• CH BYDUNE
•CllF/JG!A/,.. �'
Jounieh
•
Gii.BOO SIMO� MAS
SA.YA
•
(
\.
'
MOUN
('"
--..
.-.
L
�
0N
o·,- \_
Boolbeko
Antdyos
i!IJ\Uil • • SF.1'DIA\A
�y "'""
""
-
-
c
AD\AR • DOMAINE DES PR!l>CFS N;>
\.
._
,r'
<:,\
ll� uto
J
OI Vl�T OR�•CllOLM!>IYAV:;
K
Tl�y;
lRY
�i��\A
l
\,/
-''?
"o
(
l•y
r
•h
,
'
I/. Zahle
oRtyok
I
0
'
Hommono
�f.RTICAL���D•
"
a
•
DOM llD\
/·:Jfe.,__.
.
·
0
r
•co
IXlll llllA� ,,:.
.-
-
B
' obdo0
Alh--.
..
.._
_
l!iS
urnos• •1JOMor.sro1 LIL�
•
,'
ooy
•CIOS DE CANA � rwRJ rAGE• .C oChtouro
•
/\'
..,
HKA
M��H
'
\'"
Cl
l
BlU.
E
Y
rn' •
(
• oaab Elias
,
•
'
IRI DO�t
"
1
.
�
.
(>/W
'ntO'.iAS
/():
Al
l
lSE
,'
·
'
\
I
MTUllA.�·
'O/llOMSA
A
tl'
I'<:-0
I oDomour
(> : "'Am1q
v'
r'
..
.,
<-;,
/
/ ,- '> ,'VoAono
0 onsouro
,
'?' S0URIYA
Ke�o i" CA\I �OROL
I
(>t;:.
0Be1l ed
Dine
ll)�l'IL\\ A • UI MARS
,./
�
w QAN�
111t: 111,•1 rRJu JOL
BEKAA l� '-�
• K h1rb'I' OJoub
-.
..
.;:
•
Ul rCl�ll'IT
G!ono or Jennine
-.
.,.
,
\
_/
<I
··
�
)
bS01do
�exz1n"o '·
/
SOUTH KARAM
\•
LEBANON
!
_
)
,..
.J
·--;>
·v
---
--
--
"'(>
(I
• 1ArOI RB\
'>
Ov
,
/
o OorooO\Jn
___,
,,
,.,
oRosoyyo \
:
(SYRIA)
DimCJshq
{Oom(l1«.
.
u3:

Israe l
It's perhaps not that surprlsln1 that
th• fo od revolution In Israel has been
accompanied by a revolution In wine. What
m� aurpriH outsiders le how many Israeli
wineries today are non-kosher.
In 1990, there were iust 10 wineries In
Israel, with the oldest one Carmel (founded
In 1890 by the fa r-sighted Baron Edmond de
Rothschild of Chateau Lafite) still dominant.
The original winery at R1shon LeZ1on,
su pplied by nearby vineyard s on the
Coastal Plal n j ust south of Tel Aviv, was
the first commercial operat ion - and a
thoroughly amb1t1ous one at that as its
deep underground cellars, unused since
the 2010 vintage, testify.
Since the 1980s, when the first Israeli
winery ofthe modern age was founded with
vineyard s up to 3,940ft (1,200 m) in the
Golan Heights, Israel 's vines have moved
inland and upwards to cooler climes. The
Golan Heights winery may have chosen a
politically contentious name but, with its
importation of technical and marketing
expertise from Cal ifornia, it ignited the
modern Israeli wine industry. International
varieties were planted on volcan ic soil,
basalt, and tuff - resulting in a new wave of
modern, fresh wi nes. Their Varden brand
established a reputation abroad and was
hailed by many observant Jewish wine lovers
as a delightfully mainstream replacement for
the syrups that had until then seemed the
only kosher altern ative.
Golan Heights was followed by a positive
rash of small-scale wine producers, so
that by 2018 there were more than 300
wineries, many of them proudly classifying
themselves as "boutique" and often more
interested in satisfying Tel Aviv's lively
restaurant scene than kashrut (strict Jewish
dietary laws).
The most promising grape-growi n g areas
are Upper Galilee and the Golan Heights
in the far northeast and the Judean Hills
near Jerusalem, where sea breezes and
some mist help cool vineyards on shallow
terra rossa over limestone at elevations of
between 1,300 and 2,600ft (400 and 800 m).
The pioneer here is Eh Ben Zaken, who
founded Domaine du Castel in the image of
a fam ily-owned Bordeaux chateau The ftrst
vi n tage was 1992 and Castel has been joined
by more than 30 wineries in these wooded
hills. Relatively high vineyards have also
been planted in the Shomron Hiiis in the
northern part ofthe Central Mountai n s.
A more unlikely setting for fine wine
production 1s the Negev desert where Yat1r
manages to make really quite sophisticated
wines. In fac t, not iust desert vineyards but
IL
all Israe li vineyards need the water-savi ng
1rr1gation techniques for which Israel is
fa mous. The climate Is quite dry anou1h for
organic v1t1culture to be prevalent, but
leafroll virus is st ill too widespread to make
it a practical poss1b11ity
Domaine du Castel and Margal it
developed a cult following as long ago as
the 1990s, but they have been Joined by
m any more. Until recently, the most
ad mired Israe li wines have te nded to taste
like particularly intense copies of California
varietals, especially Cabernet Sauv1gnon .
But Israeli wine professionals have not
been unaffe cted by the worldwide
trend towards more fr eshness and
a recognizably local identity
As a result, some prod ucers are
deliberately seeking out old Carignan
bushvines, and are fa vouring var1et1es such
as Syrah, Mourvedre, Petite S1rah, and
Grenache when choosing what to plant.
A move to Mediterranean var1et1es 1s
1 2,380,00
0
�o
�
��
�
1o
o
0
t-
-
������..
..
.
��� �
..-
�
-
*
��
- Golan Heights
Galilee
t
Coastal Plain
Central Mountains
Judean Foothrlls
Negev
lnternatronal boundary
Wrne subregion
Notable producer
Land above 100
0
metres
ISRAEL'S NEW
WINE REGIONS
Official Israeli wine
regions are crudely
G ZG)
7
/
/
/
•
I
�\;
�·
�\
I
�·
\\�\
Beershebo 0
SedeBcqer
particularly evident in Israe l's new
competence in white wine production. There
1s no shortaie of technically accomplished
Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but
Grenache Blanc, V1ognier, Roussanne, and
Marsanne, often blended, are arguably much
more interesting
To answer calls for truly indigenous
character, an increasing number of wine
prod ucers, in both Israel and the West Bank,
are bottling exam ples oflocal grape varieties
such as Dabouki, Hamdani (also known as
Maraw1), and Jandali for white wines and
Bittuni for reds. These were long grown in
Palestine for local consumption as grapes,
wine, and sp1 r1ts. Perhaps inspired by the
commercial success of s1m1lar wines from
Crem1san, a wine-producing monastery on
the border between Jerusalem and the West
Bank, even Israe l's current biggest prod ucer
Barkan prod uces a varietal Maraw1, as does
the m1d-s1zed and highly respected Recanat1,
along with a red B1tturn.
YATIR •
Arad
YATIR 0
0Dimona
lrbid0
�
S6URIYA
�$YRIA)
oDor'a
Al Mcfrcqo
AL URDUN
(JORDAN)
0
Mcdcoo
0Kcrck
based on latitude and
date from far too long ago
to be useful. Our map
shows the geographically
defined wine regions that
provide a key to
'P' '\ NnGEV
..
.,
,
Neev
'\ \llGll�DS g
',
understanding Israel's wine
today even though they are not
(yet) officially recogni zed .
";l
0M1zpe Ramon
287
•
i
c
o
"
T
£
T
F
"G

NORTH
AMERICA

North America
American enthusiasm for wine has
been 1rowln1 enormously, but Is still
concentrated on the coa.u. The USA as
.a whole Is now the world's most Important
co nsumer of wine, and only France, Spain,
and Italy make more of It. Canada has
become a serious wine producer in recent
years, and even Mexico Is starting to
ft1ure in the statistics. Not just the long­
established West Coast, but scattered spots
all over North America hold at least local
interest for wine drinkers. Will the continent
one day catch up with Europe? Or will China
overtake it?
When the early colonists first landed in
'
North America, they were impressed by the
\ram pant grapevines whose fr uit fe stooned
"the forests. The grapes were sweet, 1f strange,
to taste. It was natural to assume that wine
Wo uld be one ofthe good things ofthe New
World Yet more than 300 years ofAmerican
history were a saga of the shattered hopes
ofwould-be wine-growers European vm1fera
vines planted 1n the new colonies withered
and died. The colonists did not give up. Having
no notion what was killing their vines, they
ass umed it was their fa ult and kept trying
different varieties and method s.
As late as the Revolution, Washington and
Jefferson (a great proponent of wine and one
ofFrance's early wine tourists) made
determined atte mpts, even employing a
Tuscan specialist. Nothing came of it. The
American soil was riddled with the European
vi ne's deadliest enemy, phylloxera. The hot,
humid summers of the south and east
ncouraged diseases unknown in Europe.
Jn the north, European vines died in the
harsh winters. Native American vines had
developed resistance to all of these h azards.
We now know of well over a dozen vine
species indigenous to North America, many
of them (and particularly Vltis labrusca)
producing wine so fe ral that it has long been
described as "foxy" - a flavour fam 1har today
In grape juice and jelly, but off-putting to
drinkers accustomed to Europe's only vine
-species, Vi tis vin ife ra .
Accidental hybrids
nee American and European vines coexisted
on this continent new to wine, their genes
co mmingled in random and spontaneous
combi nations from which various var1et1es
with less obvious fo xiness, such as Alexander,
Catawba, Dalaware, and Isabella, emerged
Norton is an all-American grape still producing
powerfully d1stmct1ve and not-at -all foxy reds.
Settlers tried vine -growing and winemakmg
wherever they were, especuilly in New York
(where winters WPre bitterly cold), Virginia
(where summers were sultry), and New Jersey
(somewhere in between) But it was at
Cmc1nnat1, Ohio, that the first commercially
successful American wine was born· Nicholas
Longworth's fa mous Sparkling Catawba. By
the m id -1850s, the wine was celebrated on
both sides ofthe Atlantic. Success was short­
lived, but the point was made By the time of
the Civil War, vine- breeding had become a
dehberate act1v1ty, resulting in scores of new
varieties adapted for American cond1t1ons,
including the al most rudely hardy but
extremely foxy Concord, introduced in 1854
and today the mainstay ofthe great grape belt
along the southern shore of Lake Erie through
northern Ohio, Pennsylvan ia, and New York,
which supplies America's grape iu1ce and Jelly
The vine In the West
Wmemaking reached the West Coast by
quite a diffe rent route. The earliest Spanish
settlers m Mexico had imported v1n1fera there
m the 16th century with tolerable success
Their pr1mit1ve vme, known as the M1ss1on
and 1dent1cal to Argentina's Cr1ollaChica and
Chile's Pals, flourished in Baia California But
not fo r 200 years did the Franciscan fa thers
move north up the coast of California. In 1769,
the Franciscan Junfpero Serra, founding a
mission in San Diego, 1s credited with having
planted California's first vineyard
There were none of the problems of the
East Coast here; only one new one: Pierce's
Disease (which wou ld remai n undiscovered
until 1892). V1tis vimfera had found its
Promised Land. The well- named Jean- LOUIS
V1gnes brought better vine varieties than the
Mission from Europe to southern California
The Gold Rush brought massive 1mm1gration
to the state. By the 1850s, northern Californ ia
had been well and truly conquered by the vine.
Thus, by the mid-19th century, America had
two wine industries, a continent apart
California enjoyed an early go lden age in the
1880s and 1890s, only to see its burgeo ning
wine industry curtai led by the scou rges of
mildew and phylloxera - iust like Europe.
Prohibition and repeal
But then came a blow greater than any of
these: the proh1blt1on of alcohol throughout
North America between 1919 and 1933. Both
western and eastern vine-growers limped
through, making supposedly sacramental
wine and shipping huge quantities of grapes,
juice, and concentrate to a n at ion that
suddenly discovered home winemaki ng, with
the warning: "Caution - do not add yeast or
the contents will ferment."
The lasting legacy of the culture that
spaw ned this outright ban on all things
alcoholic, long a�er the repeal of Prohib1t1on
in 1933, has been a wine Industry Iona
thwarted by unnecessarily complex
organization and obstructive legi slati on.
Despite this, wine 1s at last of real interest
to a substantial proportion of Americans,
even quite yo ung ones (though the official
minimum drinking age 11 21) This has
translated mto a flurry of ac t1v1ty and
exper1mentat1on on the part of would-be wme
producers all over the continent. Ever since
the development ofthe rai l roads, grapes and
wine have been shipped from v1ticulturally
well- endowed states, particularly Cal ifornia,
fo r blending and bottling in less fortunately
situated wineries, some of which grow
relatively few vines. All 50 states, including
Alaska and Hawai i, now produce wine,
although some re ly on fr uit other than
grapes for their fe rmentations, and many buy
in wine, grapes, and/or grape Juice either to
supplement what they grow themselves or
as their prime raw material. As the map
overleaf suggests, many of the states with
wineries lack much m the way of vmeyards
.
"
,-, ..�··" ·"'>"'��
.
. · � �, ·:-K'.:,·"'�1.iJdl
The first generation of hyb rids ofvinifera and
American vines bred 1n post-ph lloxera
Europe, uch as white Vidal, Seyval Blanc,
and Vignoles, and red Baco oir and
Chambo urcin, we re introduced to North
America (where they have enjoyed far more
ucce s) in the mid-20th century by Philip
Wagner of Boord Vineyards, M aryland.
The are stillpopular in regions with winters
too old fo r vi nifera, and have recently been
upplemented by a n ew generation of even
more cold-hardy hybrid . Mo t of the e
have been de eloped by the Univer ity of
Minne ota to prosper even in the tate' bitter
winters, and yet prod uce wines with familiar,
al mo t vinifera-l ike aromas and flavou rs.
White wine varieties relea ed 'O far are
Itasca, LaCrescent, and Fro n te n ac Gris,
wh ile reds are Marquette and Frontenac
The white Brianna and Prairie tar were
bred in neighbourmg Wi c ons111 . These new
varietie are now wideI planled throughout
the pper Pl, ins and a.re also being planted
in a n ada. The have proved quite acceptable
to wine drinkers, too.

•
c
c
o
0
T
E
T
f
"
290
NORTH AMERICA
San Diego
..
.
..
.
-
�
HAWAII
6
A
KmO20
0
..a.
.
o
United states of the vine
ulu
S)
«IOKm
20
0
..
..
.
The rapidly expanding wine industries of
Canada, Oregon, Washington, California,
Virginia, New York, the Southwest states, and
Mexico, in al l of wh1ch vinifera vines reign, are
considered in detail on the following pages,
in that geographically slightly illogical but
exped ient order. But the number of wineries
elsewhere has also been growing enormously
Even states such as Arizona, Indiana, Iowa,
and North Carolina, not exactly regarded as
wine country in the past, have more than 100
wi neries each today Kentucky, Pe nnsylvania,
and Vermont together produce more wine
than Barolo and Barbaresco combined, even
if lt 1s rather less val uable.
States east of the Rockies may produce
JU1ce, Jelly, or heavily flavoured drinks based on
the produce of American vines or, increasingly,
more subtle fe rments from either vinifera or
hy brids of v1nlfera and American vine species
(see panel on p. 289). And where the climate
permits, such as on the East Coast, growers
have recently been keen to plant var1et1es
other than the old 1nternat1onal favo urites.
Albar11'10, Gruner Veltliner, Cabernet Franc,
and V1ognler have all fo und new homes.
In the Midwest, MIHourl Is the only state
with a lone history of vine growi ng on any
•I•
1 2.(,00
0
,00
0
USA AND
CA NADA
The four different
sizes of symbols
for the vineyard
area and number
of wineries are
mislead ing in the
case of California -
its vineyard area
20
0
ACOMlloa
is 10 times that of
Washington, the
next largest grower.
scale, and was Ohio's only serious 19th­
century rival east ofthe Rockies. Augusta
in M1ssour1 made this point, when in 1980 it
became America's first American Viticultural
Area (AVA). These roughly 240 vine-growi ng
areas, often delineated with more regard
for political than natural boundaries, and
the sens1t1v1t1es of producers rather than
consumers, are the closest US wine gets to
a controlled appellation system . M1ssour1's
offi cial grape, Norton, was first discovered
1n Virginia in 1820, but Is particularly
well-suited to the torrid summers and
occasionally arctic winters of this part of
the Midwest, although French-American
hybrids predominate.
In Michigan, surrounded by the Great
Lakes, the lake-tempered Old M1ss1on and
Leelenau peninsulas prod uce fre sh, delicate
wh ites from varieties such as Pinot Gris,
Pinot Blanc, and Riesling, and even a few
worthwhile reds. Hybrids stlll dominate the
southwest of the state, however.
Of the states not considered in detail on the
fo llow ing pages, Pennsylvaniagrows the moat
vines, but most of the wine produced 1s cheap
stuff based on hybrids. For wines of note,
historic Ohio 1s more important. The New
England states, li ke many on the East Coast,
•I•
• "-1•
Country boundary
State/provincial boundary
State/provi ncial capital
Acres of Vineyard area per state/province
(over 1,00
0
acres) in 2016 (including American
vanetles and hybrids)
Number of wineries per state/province in 2016
depend on a mixture of v1nifera, hybrids, and
bought-in grapes. Small, fa mrly- run wine
operations predomrnate New Jersey's wine
industry has almost as long a history as
Virginia's but is much smaller; Maryland has
more vines. Both hedge bets between vinlfera
and French hybrids.
In the Carolinas and Georlla. high humidity
and high temperat ures challenge vine growers,
who also try hard with both v1nifera and hybrid
varieties The hmrted vineyard s of the rest of
the South from Florida to Arkansas once
depended on the slippery-fleshed grapes of
native muscadine vines, but hybrids are now
crown to produce more mainstream
flavours. Cooler, higher parts of the South
can have conditions very similar to V1rg1nia·s
All over this great continent, wi ne Is 1n
the ascendant - not JU St its consumpt.on,
but its production, too.

Canada
Canada, d•acrlbed by Voltalr. aa "a f•w
acres of snow," •nt.,.
.
d the world ofw1n•
with th• plaualbl• propC»eltlon, to It M•m•d,
of lc•wlne. But the last 30 years have seen
•wine revol ution, partly fu elled by climate
Change. This vast country has been finding
its Bordeaux and Burgu ndy in, respectively,
its two main wine-growing provinces· British
Col umbia and Ontario.
Wrne 1s now made in seven of the 10
provinces, with Quebec and Nova Scotia
tncreasingly significant producers. There is no
national wine law - the task being apparently
too hard - so each of the fo ur most important
provi nces has enacted its own. It matters,
because Canadian wine companies bottle so
much imported wine, and it is not always
clearly differentiated from native fe rments.
Exports (indeed total prod uction levels)
are still modest, but wine of some kind has
been made commercially in Canada since the
mtd-1800s. A small industry, relying mainly on
hybrid and American labrusca vine varieties,
had emerged in Ontario by the 1970s. The
modern industry began in the 1990s, after
the North American Free Trade Agreement
forced Canadian wineries to prepare for a
flood of Cahforma wines. Growers started
to plant more vin1fera varieties. In Ontario,
vineyards increased and the number of
wineries grew from a handful in the 1980s
to 60 in 2000 and more than 200 in 2018
(see p.293). Br1t1sh Columbia's wine industry,
based on vin1fera vines and examined overleaf
,
took off at the same time, wtth the number of
wineries reaching almost 300 by 2018.
Quebec
Today, there are about 150 wineries in the
province of Quebec, but almost all are very
small, and hardly any of their prod uce is sold
outside the provi nce. Winters are so cold
that producers have to bury their vines to
protect them from fa tal winter freeze. Even
lcewine grapes are affected, because the
snowfall can be so deep that 1t covers the
grape clusters. Quebec wine law therefore
controversially al lows lcewme producers to
pick the bunches and suspend them in nets
above the vines (as shown below), rather
than leaving them to freeze on the vine as in
the rest ofCanada (and Germany).
Most vines in Quebec are hybrids, such as
Baco Noir and Marechal Foch, although
v1mfera vines are gai ning ground, and
pred 1ct1ons of chmate change suggest that
areas m southern Quebec will be suitable
for early- ripenmg vm1fera varieties by the
2040s. Some prod ucers, such as Les Brome,
V1gnoble Caron, and Les Pervenches, already
make some very presentable Pinot No1r and
Chardonnay, and an lnd1cat1on Geograph1que
Protegee (IGP) Vm du Quebec certification
1s m the works.
Nova Scotia
Nova Scotia winters can be bitterly cold and
so vines, mainly winter-hardy hybrids such
as L'Acad ie Blanc, Seyval Blanc, and Vidal,
are planted m sheltered areas and near the
NOltTH AMUUCA
91
Atlantic and the Bay of Fundy, whose waters
moderate the climate to some extent.
There are fe wer than 20 wineries, but Nova
Scotia 1s gam ing a reputation for traditional
method sparkhng wine, especially those made
from the hybrid L'Acad 1e Blanc. Beniam1n
Bridge 1s the leading prod ucer, while others
of note include L'Acad 1e Vineyards , Doma1ne
de Grand Pre, and Blom1don Estate Nova
Scotia's lone appellation, Tidal Bay, refers
to a style - dry, aromatic, crisp, and fresh -
rather than a location. Wines made solely
from grapes grown 1n Nova Scotia can be
labelled Wine of Nova Scotia
Buyer beware
Many of the wines sold 1n Canada's hquor
stores (mainly run by prov1 nc1al monopolies)
are blends of Canadian wine with wines
imported m bulk, bottled by the bigger wine
prod ucers 1n British Columbia, Ontario,
and Nova Scotia. This 1s a common but
controversial practice because many
consumers are unaware of the diffe rence
between an all-Canadian wine (often labelled
VQA, for Vintners Quality Alhance) and one
described on the label (usually m small letters)
as an "international blend of imported and
domestic wines" - especially since some
wineries bottle both.
Grapes at L'Orpail/eur are picked and left
hanging m nets over the snow-covered ground
to fr eeze, concen trating the sugar to make
lcewine - a technique allowed exclusively
m Quebec.

A
I
B
c
c
o
D
T
292
NORTH AMERICA • CANADA
British
Columbia
British Columbia Is the big success story.
Twenty years ago, the province was a
distant second to Ontario in terms of wine
prod uction and reputation; today, it 1s at
least Ontario's equal. The number of wineries
has grown from a mere 17 in 1990 to almost
300 in 2018 Depending on vintage, British
Columbia (BC) prod uces about as much
wme as Ontario, and growing vo lumes of
1t are exported. But the great bulk of
BC wine is sold in the province, particularly
in Vancouver, where<:onsumers are
clearly keen
There are nine official wme regions, known
as Geographical Indications (see locator
map). Collectively they offer a spectrum
ofsoils and growing cond1t1ons, rangi ng from
very cool to very warm, and a correspondingly
wide range of grape var1et1es and wme styles,
with table wines al most equally d1v1ded
between red and wh ite. Sparkling wine,
especially traditional method, 1s on the rise
BC makes re latively little lcewme, on average
less than a quarter as much as Ontario
Okanagan Valley 1s by far BC's largest wine
region, having 8,620 acres (3,500 ha) of
vineyards of the province's total of 1 0,000
acres (4,050ha), and 182 of its 290 wineries
m 2018. A good 200 miles (320 km) east of
Vancouver, and east of a range of mountai ns
that creates a rain shadow, this 150- mile­
{240- km- ) long val ley spans a variety of
growing cond1t1ons that are cooler and
wetter m the north, and warmer and drier m
the south. All are influenced by bodies of
water, the most important being the long,
narrow, and deep Okanagan Lake, lined with
vineyards on both sides.
OKANAGAN VA LLEY:
SUMMERLAND
Lnt1tude/ Elevation ofWS:
49.61 °N / 1,424ft (434 m)
Average growing season t mperature at WS
61.7° F (16.5 °C)
verage ,rnnual rai nfall at WS:
11 in (279 mm)
llarv st month ramfall al W
Octobe r: 0.7in (19mm)
Pr1nupal v1tJCulturnl hazards
Winter freeze, spring frost
!' rim1pal grape var1ct1cs
W · P not Grla, Chardon nay; R : Morlot,
Plnot No r
The most- planted white wme grapes are
Pmot Gris, Chardon nay, and Gewurztram 1ner,
which 1n Okanagan Valley are made fresh
and crisp, while Merlot, Plnot Noir, and
Cabernet Sauv1gnon are the most common
red wine grapes. Robust, fu ll-bodied reds, both
varietals and blends (especially Bordeaux
blends), are made from vines growing in the
sandy soils ofthe warm, dry Osoyoos district
in the south of the val l� around Lake
Osoyoos, which straddles the US border. This
1s Canada's warmest area and only desert -
and the only significant Canadian region where
such wines can be made. Almost 40% of BC
wine comes from here.
Okanagan has two official sub-appellations:
Golden Mite Bench, m the south of the val ley,
created in 2015, and Okanagan Fal ls, on the
east side ofthe val ley, created in 2018.
The valley has several other clearly den ned
climatic subregions that could qualify as
sub-appellations with enough will and
cohesion among local producers
With 660 acres (270 ha) of vines,
Similkameen Valley is BC's second wme
region m size, but has only 15 wineries, many
organ ic. The val ley runs east-west and the
soils are predominantly gravel, and with a
range of mesochmates. The region's wines,
chiefly from both earlier- and later-ripening
varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling,
Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauv1gnon,
are gam ing ground.
Br1t1sh Columbia's other seven regions are
much less i mpo rtant. Fraser Valley, with
40 small wineries averagi ng only 5 acres
(2 ha) each, has the advantage of proximity to
Vancouver but the disadvantage of a coolish
maritime cli mate. Common varieties are
Siegerrebe, Pinot Gris, Pmot No1r, and
Bacc hus. Vancouver Island has more than
30 wineries, all very small. Most are located
at the southern end of the island in the
Cow1chan Valley, near V1ctor1a, the provincial
capital of BC. Coot (and often wet) conditions
OKANAGAN VALLEY
The glacial trench that Is the Okanagan Valley is
gorgeous in summer, as many a photographer
can attest, but this far north autumn can arrive
inconven iently early for some vine varieties.
t
Ok:ampnFal
ls
Subregion
•Hl
ll
lD
ll
l
..
.
Notable producer
Vineyards
Woods
Weather station (WS)
11.0
00
,00
0
1p
7P""'
10Mao
o
compel many producers to grow hybrids as
well as v1n1fera var1et1es . There are a dozen
wineries on several small Gulf l•lands
located between Vancouver Island and the
mainland. Varieties include Pmot No1r, Pmot
Gris, Ortega, and Marechal Foch.
The four remaining regions, LUlooet,
Thompson Valley, and Shuswap to the
north, and Kootenays in the east, were
given official status in 2018, but together
have fe wer than 25 wineries.
BC'S WINE REGIONS
This map is misleadingly precise. The only
regional name you are likely to find on a bottle
outside British Columbia is Okanagan.
•I

Ontario
Th• province of Ontario, Its climate
moderated by th• Qreat Lakes, produces
routhly halfof all Canadian wine, depending
on th• vintage, from more than 200
wineries In thre
e
Dealsnated Vltlcultural
Areas (DVAa). It was the discovery of the
potential for lcewine, pressed from grapes
frozen solid, their sugar concentrated to
fo rmidable intensity, that kick- started the
Industry in the 1970s. Most of Ontario's wine
1s sold in the province, although some table
wines are now exported, and the prodigious
quant1t1es of sweet and sour lcewine produced
each year have long been a lucrative export
commodity, especially to China and the US.
The Niagara Peninsula 1s still Ontario's
(and Canada's) most important wine region,
with 14,600 ac res (5,900ha) ofOntario's
total 17,000 ac res (6,900ha) of vineyard.
A combination of geographical quirks makes
v1t1culture possible in the semi -continental
climate here. This narrow mosaic of glacial
deposits 1s protected by Lake Ontario to the
north, Lake Erie to the south, and the deep
Niagara River to the east. These vast bodies
ofwater are so cold after winter that they
usefully delay budbreak, and prolong
ripening in autumn by storing summer heat.
Lake Ontario in particular moderates the
Lok•
fne
OHIO
PENNSYLVANIA
NIAGARA PENINSULA
The Niagara Peninsula (which
Is really an isthmus) has been
iflVlded into 10 sub-appellations,
-SOme of them grouped into two
regional appellations. Most
'\rineyards are located on the
.plam and benches between
�shore of Lake Ontario and
Nlap.ra Escarpment, the
foeal section of a long bluff that
l"Ui'ls from the US, around Lake
Superfor tn Canada, and back
Into the US.
12
t
CaHtnr
6Cenlre
effect of Arct ic air masses in winter, while
the temperat ure diffe rence between this
cooler lake and the warmer Lake Erle to the
south encourages cooling breezes in summer
Growing conditions in Niagara vary
s1gn iflcantly from year to year, but recent
summers have been increaslngly warm and
long, which has boosted the quality of 1ts dry
table wines cons iderably. Even so, Ontario
makes an average of 850,000 litres of
tinglingly sweet lcew1ne every year; most
from the luscious, curranty French hybrid
Vidal, whose wi nes tend to mature early,
followed by pal e - red lcewine made fro m
frozen Cabernet Franc grapes, with Riesling
lcewine a distant third in popul arity.
Riesling 1s arguably Niagara's strength for
bone-dry wines, although individual prod ucers
have shown occasional brilliance with
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc,
Gamay, and even Syrah. Almost 60% of
Ontario wine 1s white, with rose increasingly
common. The relatively short growing season
1s no disadvantage for trad1t1onal- method
sparkling wine; more and more 1s being made.
Most Niagara vines are grown on the plain
between Lake Ontario and the Escarpment,
but the well- protected benches, with their
calcareous soils, are particularly suitable
for delicate R1eshng and Pinot No1r. An
amb1t1ous series of 12 Niagara Peninsula
regional appellations and sub-appellations
was adopted in 2005 (see map below)
International boundary
NIAGARA-ON
THE-LAKE Regional appellation
Wine sub-appellation
Notable producer
Woods
Weather station (WS)
1 ,17,00
0
1p
1,5
'1(lKm
I
lOMd•
CANADA • NOftTH AMll'UCA
2ft
Ontario has two smaller appellations <•••
the smaller map). Lake Erle North Shore
depends solely on Lake Erie to te mper its
climate, has a longer crowing seuon than
Niagara Peninsula, and 11 often warm enough
to ripen Merlot and both Cabernets. The
appellation includes Pelee Island, Canada's
southernmost point, which has even warmer
conditions A sub-appellation, South Islands,
includes Pelee Island and several smaller
islands in Lake Erie
The most recent DVA, Prince Edward
County on Lake Ontario's north shore, has
recently shot to prom inence and now has
about 50 wi neries (there were none in 2000).
It 1s much cooler than Niagara, but its shallow
limestone soils are already clearly we ll suited
for fine Chardonnay and P1not No1r, even 1f
these less- hardy vin1fera vines have to be
buried to protect them in wi nter
NIAGARA PENINSULA:
ST CATHARI ES
Lati tude I Elevation ofW
43.18° / 259ft (79 m)
Ave rage growing sea on temperature at W
60.1 °F (15.6 'C)
Ave rage annual rainfall at W
29in (746 mm)
Harve t month rainfall at W
October: 2 .7 i n (69mm)
Principal viticultural hazards
Winter fr eeze, underripeness
Principal grape varieties
W : Chardonnay, Riesling; R: Cabernet Franc,
Merlat
•
I
•
;;-
c
o
0
T
E
T
F
G

294
NORTH AMERICA
Pacific
Northwest
Oregon and Washington, the two main
pl�rs In the Northwest, could hardly be
more dif
f
erent. Oregon's Willamette Valley,
its principal wine region, 1s damp, green, and
fe els remarkably Burgundian. All but a handful
ofWashington's vineyards are 1n the arid,
continental eastern part of the state m wide,
open terrain where 1rr1gat1on 1s essential .
Oregon has long been the home of the
craftsman winemaker, vm1fying grapes
grown m small, personally managed, main ly
estate vineyards, many of which are organ ic
- although a recent infl ux of French and
California investors has been polishing a
few of the rough edges so treasu red by
Oregon's wine pioneers.
The Coast Range forms a sheltering sea
wal l, as 1t does in California, but here the
ocean's cold North Pacific current brings rain
instead offog, creating a climate that is mild
for such northern latitudes. The Cascade
Range separates Willamette Valley from
the hot desert in Oregon's east, iust as 1t
separates wet western Washington from its
eastern desert. So, east of the Cascades, m a
continental climate, Oregon and Washington
are similar, except that vineyards are
comparatively rare m eastern Oregon, while
eastern Washington 1s where almost all of
the state's vines grow, even 1f much of the
grape harvest is shipped west to the wineries
clustered ro und Seattle.
About 100 acres (40ha) of vines have been
planted optim istically 1n the cool, ram -sodden
Puget Sound AVA around Seattle. They have
to be early- r1pening var1et1es such as Muller­
Thurgau, Madeleine Angevine, and Siegerrebe:
a very different roster from those m the east.
The Willamette Valley, with its fir trees
and gentle hills, grows almost three-quarters
of Oregon's vines, and also serves as the
agricultural epicentre for the state's other
crops, as 1t has done for more than a century.
The growing conditions between the two
no rth-south mountain ranges that border 1t
make 1t ideal for fa rming of al l sorts. Vineyards
did not appear here until the mid·1960s, but
then quite quickly took over the propitiously
sited slopes of the north of the valley, being
slipped piecemeal into the busy, wel l - worked,
agr1cultural landacape aouth of Portland.
If the Willamette Valley, described m detail
overleaf, suffera the aame sort ofcapricious
weather aa Burgundy, Southern Ore1on Is
much warmer and drier, and proves there 1s
more to the atate than P1not and its relatives.
In fac t, Oregon's first Pmot No1r waa planted,
at H1llCreat Vineyard In 1961, m the Umpqua
/
Valley. This AVA 1s the coolest and wettest
m Southern Oregon, but as far south as
Roseburg 1t benefits from much warmer
summers and drier autu mns. The dynamic
Abacela winery has shown that Spanish
varieties such as Albar1 iio and Te mpran illo
can fl ourish here. Red Hill Douglas County 1s
a single-vi neyard AVA in the northeast ofthe
Umpqua Valley. The Elkton Oregon AVA m the
valley's northwest was established in 2013.
South agai n, near the California border,
the slightly more densely planted Rogue
Valley 1s eve n warmer, and the annual rai nfall
(about 12 m/300 mm) in the east of the
region 1s almost as low as that offar eastern
Washington. Red Bordeaux grapes and Syrah
will usually ripen here (in contrast to the
Willamette Val ley). Applegate Valley is a
sub-AVA of the Rogue Val ley.
Crosslnc border•
The vine is no respecter of state lines
Was hington's improbably vast Columbia
Valley AVA also includes parts of Oregon.
The dramatic Columbia Gorge wine country
m the southwest of the Columbia Val ley
straddles the river and includes vineyards m
both Washington and O regon . The AVA is
known fo r Chardonnay, aromatic white wine
varieties, Pinot No1r, and Zlnfandel. Land
prices have been rising here, thanks in part
to more tourism. In the northwest corner of
the val ley 1s another tourist destination, the
Lake Chelan AVA This promising and pretty
area, pioneered by the Sandidge fa mily under
the label CRS, has proved capable of ripening
a much wider range of grape var1et1es than
had previously been assumed
There 1s more to Oregon than Willa mette
Valley. These autumnal vines are in a
Brandborg vineyard in Elkton Oregon,
a subregion ofthe Umpqua Valley.
The southernmost part of Washington's
Wal la Walla Valley actually crosses into
northeastern Oregon, too. The stony AVA,
The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, on
the flatland below and south of Washington's
wine town Walla Walla is actually m Oregon
(see map on p.300). This AVA was one ofthe
first in the US to be defined al most entirely
by soil, with 93% of it made up of a single
type of soil, the Freewater Series, sitting on
an al luvial fan of basalt cobbles, making 1t
one ofthe most uniform AVAs in the country.
Most ofthe AVA's grapes are driven north
iust across the border to be vmlfied In Wal la
Walla Such wines have to be labelled with
the Walla Walla AVA. As a result, very few
wineries other than Cayuse, which put the
Rocks District on the map initially, are able
to use the AVA on labels.
One of the more surprising wine regions I n
the US 1s the Snake River Valley, which 1s
mainly m Idaho but also encompasses a bit
ofeastern Oregon. As in eastern Washington,
the climate here 1 s continental , all the more
extreme for being fu rther south, and also
considerably higher at nearly 3,000f't
(900m) . Summer days can be very hot, the
nights usefully cool, but winter arrives early
Some 50 wineries now flourish In Idaho, and
there Is considerable c ross-border traffi in
grapes and wine with eastern Washington,
although Idaho's own vineyard area 1s over
1,200 acres (485ha)

Olympic
Moun t ains
,,
,'
PAC IFIC NORTHWEST • NO.. TH AMl.. ICA
2f
f
-�
llUW
.w.w:
•IOl
lS
.Cel
li
o
�"'"
"'
-
[]![]
tI 2,50
0
,00
0
'
,
__..
.
...
.
State boundary
AVA
Columb1c
Moses loko 801/n
0
..
.
v
US90
�­
/
/ usm
Oregon produces only 1% ofwme in the US,
but has about the same number of wineries
as Washington, even though Wa shington has
more than twice as much vineyard as Oregon
and is the second most important American
wine -producing state after California.
Notable producer
Noted vineyard
Vineyard areas
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
(
,
KmO
50
IOOKm
NORTH AMERICA'S PACIFIC NORTHWEST
The Pacific Northwest is defined by its mountains,
particularly the Cascade Range, dominated by Mount
Rai nier, which provides a dramatic divide between the
wet Washington coast around Seattle (where such a
high proportion of the state's wine is still made, or at
least aged) and the desert of eastern Washington.
�1-
o
�
..
..
..
..
..
..
,o..
..
..
..
..
..
�..
..
..
..
..
.
'°
.._
..
..
.,
<I0
,.
..
..
..
..
..
50
,.
..
..
Ml
lo
o
..
..
.,
..
..
•I•
In northern Oregon 1t Is the much lower Coastal
Range that plays such an important part in
determining the state's treasured neo-Burgundlan
identity. Southern Oregon has a dif
f
erent character
again. The small locator map shows how western
Canada's wine regions (apart from the very small-scale
Gulf Islands) flt Into the Paclftc Northwest . Se
e
also
p 292 for details ofCanada's contribution to Pacific
Northwest wine culture in British Columbia.
.,,
E
T
•
i

Willamette Valley
Climate is Oregon's main wine region's great
point of difference: difference from both
California to the south and Washington
State to the north.
Te rroir Mainly volcanic basalt soils, marine
sedimentary sandstone and siltstone, or
windblown loess.
Climate Summers can be cool, cloudy, and
damp but seem to be getting warmer and
drier. Winters are relatively mild, after
autumn rai ns.
Grapes R: Pinot Noir; W: Pinot Gris,
Chardonnay, Ries l ing
While Willamette Valley summers are cooler
and cloudier than those of sunny California
(see the key fa cts panels), its winters are
considerably milder than those of
Was hington's deeply continental wine
cou ntry. Pacific Ocean clouds and humidity
wash across Oregon's vineyard s, especially
the northern reaches of the Willamette
Va lley where most vineyards are to be
found. They are blown th rough breaks in
the Coast Range, making cool summers
and dam p autumns, rather than fr eez ing
winters, the perennial threats.
The discovery (or rather the invention)
ofthe Wiiiamette Valley as a modern wine
region was made In the mid 1960s at Dundee
1n Ya mhill County by Dav id Lett, when he
Htablt1hed h11 Eyr1e Vineyard s H11 Pinot
No1 r was an immediate success, and since
the mid-19701 Oregon and this grape have
been inextricably linked . Oregon Pinots are,
m ge neral, softer, more obviously fruity,
and earlier-maturing than their European
counterparts, but earthier and often more
complex than those grown in other New
Wo rld regions.
Almost as though this were the way Pmot
No1r liked to be grown, the Willamette Valley
has largely remained small-scale. The area
attracted a different type of would-be
winemaker from the h igh- rollers who headed
for Napa or Sonoma. In the early days of the
Willamette Valley, modest means and big
ideas produced a range of unpredictable
wines, from the mesmerizing to the seriously
flawed Most ofthe early wines were fragrant
but ethereal But by the mid-1980s, 1t was
obvious that some of the Pi nots had exciting
staying power and each new vintage nowadays
confirms Wi llamette's potential
In the early years, the Oregon wine industry
was run by small fa m i ly enterprises which,
priding themselves on the contrast with
California to the south, would grow their
own grapes and make their own wine. The
Burgu ndian model in fact - except that there
was a sp1r1t of co-operation right from the
start . In recent years the balance has shifted.
As Willamette Valley land has become more
expensive, 1t has become more common for
prod ucers to buy grapes Few new small
scale vintners can affo rd their own land in
the Willamette Val ley The area under vine
has grown enormously recently· by 50%
to 20,500 acres (8,300 ha) m the six years
to 2011, and to 23,000 ac res (9,300 ha) by
2016, making Oregon defl nitively the third
Mount Hood looms ovr t;he Of1
1'1cu
ltural
paradise that Is the Wi
it
� VCJ}ley, supplier
to Portland's vibrant foOd cu1
1;u
,.
.
.
most important vimfera-wine-producing
American state, with twice a.s much vineyard
today as New York.
The valley's sub-appellations
After considerable debate and degustation,
several sub-appellations have been officially
recogn ized within the 150-mlle- (240 - km-)
long Willamette Valley. The h ighest
concentration of vmeyards 1s m the Dundee
Hills, with their heavy, red-ti nged basalt loam
soils. The Red Hills of Dundee enjoy the
combination ofgood drai nage and propitious
exposu re to rainfall and ltght that is so crucial
to opti mum ripeness m cloudy Oregon.
Yam hill-Carlton District 1s very slightly
warmer but has more frost problems, so
vines are planted well above the val ley floor,
ideally on east-fac ing slopes on the west side
of the val ley at 200-700ft (60-210m). Soils
are dry, composed primarily of eroded
marine sedimentary sandstone or si ltstone.
Summer 1s usually coolest in the Eola-Amity
Hills and McMinnville and cooler still m the
state's newest AVA, the Van Duzer Corridor.
These AVAs are the most open to Pacific
incursion through the dip m the Coast Range
known as the Van Duzer Corridor - the new
AVA sits directly beside this low point. Pmot
No1r here tends to be earthy and ageworthy
rather than simply fru ity. McMinnville 1s
named for the university town that 1s a focus
for the Oregon wine industry, while both
Eola-Amity Hills and Chehalem Mountains
are named for their outcrops of hills.
Chehalem Mountai ns 1s the most diverse of
the AVAs. It includes the 1,629-ft - (497-m-)
high Bald Peak, and each of the region's three
major soil types (see above). Ribbon Ridge 1s
a small, pr1v1leged sandstone and siltstone
sub-AVA of Chehalem Mountains.
Successful grape-growing m the Willamette
Val ley 1s about r1penmg grapes fu lly and
navigating the inevitable autumn rams. The
valley's vintage pattern 1s as wllful as any in
France, and perhaps more wildly varied than
in any ot her American wine region Harvest
can vary fro m late August to a soggy early
November, although 2012 to 2016 inclusive
were con si stently warm, early years. Hot,
dry summers can stress yo unger vines on
windblown ioess and eroded sandstone and
siltstone. Some of these are Irrigated, but
most vineyards are d ry·fa rmed .
Root•tock9 and clone•
The early pioneers, o�en on shoestring
budgets, tended to plant vi neyards as cheaply
as possible, thus with wide-spaced vines but
now higher-density planting Is more common
Another relatively recent change to Oregon

Willamette Valley PACIFIC NORTHWEST NOftTH AMlftlCA
n7
St11te boundary
County boundary
•81
11'1
Not.bit producer
•=.
.a
Noted vineyard
Wiiiamette Valley AVA
Ya mh11f,Carlton Dlstrrct AVA
Chehalem Mountains AVA
Ribbon Ridge AVA
Dunde
e
Hills AVA
McMlnnvrlle AVA
Eofa,Amlty H�ls AVA
Van Duzer Corridor AVA
Vineyards
Wo
od
s
Contour interval 100
0
feet
• WNther station (WSl
1 710,00
0
Kl
l
t
,.
.
,
_
___ 1
._
,
o__..-__.'PKm
•�
i'
oMolo
o
I�
r
vineyard design is the use of rootstocks.
Phylloxera was first spotted here tn 1990,
sensible growers have planted grafted vines.
Yields 1n these vineyards therefore tend to
be more consistent and vines tend to ripen
ea;rlier, butthe most important tnfluence on
the conti nually improvt ng quality of Oregon
Pmot No1r and Chardonnay has been the
addingofclones other than the two that
il\
\itla
lly dominated: the Widenswil clone,
orfMtnaJly from Switzerland, and the clone, so
pq>ular 1n California, known as Pommard,
Burgund1an clones were popular in the 1990s
buttoday a mix, often a fleld blend, 1s tn favour.
Almost three-quarters of the regi on's
plantings are Pinot Noir, with Ptnot Gris,
introduced to North America by David Lett
of Eyrie, a distant second. More recently
some Chardon nay-focused prod ucers have
emerged , benefittng from the vogue for
leaner wines. Less common, but well worth
seekt ng out are Willamette Valley R1eshngs,
from steely dry essences to lusciously sweet .
To their credit, and despite the damp
climate, Oregon's v1t1e-growers have long been
d1st1ngu1shed by a widespread commitment
to sustainable, often organic and sometimes
b1odynam1c, practices. One 1nstitut1on that
has done much to put the Willamette Valley
on the tnternat1onal wine map and emphasize
Oregon's d1sttnct1on 1s the International
Ptnot Norr Celebration held every Ju ly. This
th ree-day Ptnotfest sees fa ns and producers
from al l over the world congregate 1n the town
of McMinnville to worship at the altar of Plnot,
and mutter about the 1mqu1tles of Cabernet.
,,
NOPITHl:PIN WILLAMETTE VA LLEY
Six sub-appellation• were carved out of th•
northern Willamette Valley AVA In th• early
21st century, then the Van Duzer Corridor wu
awarded AVA status In late 2018. Boundaries
are either stral1ht or almo1t impoHlbly wlgly
line1, tt wo uld sHm Th• number of noted
vineyards Is surely likely to Increase. Ore1on Is
a state of i nd1v1duall1t1.
--,,
,.
.
#- -·-·:
OREGON
)
I
">
I
I
,_,_,_,_l_,__
,i,
WILLAMETTE VA LLEY:
MCMI VILLE
Latitude I Elevation of WS
45.13° / 154ft (47 m)
Ave rage grow ing season tempera ture at W
so.s•F (15.9°C)
Ave rage annual rainfall at WS
41.7in (1,060 mm)
Harve l month ra111fall al WS
October: 3.1 i n (80mm)
Prmc1pal viticu lturul hazards
Fungal diseases , underr1peness
c
o
D
£
E
F
f
'

•
..
.
•
c
c
o
D
T
E
'
298
NORTH AMERICA • PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Washington
The rollinc semi-desert of eastern
Washington, where most of the state's
grapes are grown, is superficially unllkely,
but Increasingly important and reward ing,
wine country.
Te rroir Vineyards are mainly on fa st­
drai ning sandy soils on rolling hills.
Washington wine country, like Oregon, is a
repository for deposits from as far away
as Montana, thanks to the Missoula Floods
of the last ice age.
Climate Short growing season with hardly
any rai n, and sun shining re liably for up to
17 hours a day, but savagely cold winters.
Grapes R: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Syrah; W: Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris,
Sauvignon Blanc
I
I
!I
�--·�_,.
.
- -·\
Portland OREGON j
State boundary
County boundary
� AVA
ll
ll
llil
lD
•mrm
Notable producer
·=-
-
Noted vineyard
c=i Vineyards
Woods
°'
Contour interval 40
0
feet
Ofil Area mapped at larger scale
y Weather station (WSJ
11
21•
Most visitors reach eastern Washington
from the city ofSeattle, around which so
many of the state's wineries still c luster.
(And where every autu mn the great
maior1ty of the state's grapes arrive to be
vin1fted. ) Washington's wine to urists drive
through damp Douglas ftr and ponderosa
pine fo rests, over the mighty Cascades,
and descend suddenly Into the fe rt ile
fa rmland ofthe Ya kima.Valley and
the rolling wheat fields aroun� Wal la
Wal la, punctuated by oases of green
vines alongside the apples, cherries,
hops, and Concord grapes for Juice
and jelly. The conti nental climate
has proved exce llent for ripening
fine wine grapes, on a latitude
between that ofBordeaux and
Burgundy, with the very important
proviso that there 1s access to
irrigat ion water - from rivers,
reservoirs, or from much
more expensive we lls.
At 2, 800 acre• (1, 130ha),
McKinley Springs i• th•
largeat contiguous
vineyard In th• US.
l 179,00
0
•I•
Washingto n's ma1or early plantings of
vin1fera vines, from the 1970s, were all
1 n specific areas close enough to the
Columbia, Yaki m a, and Snake rivers.
.,

This 1s low cost fa rmland (far cheaper than
Calrforma, for example) and the ad vent of
drip 1rr1gatlon, and the ability to pipe water
throughout the state, means that the total
area of vin1fera vines has been ex panding
11lst, surpassing Sei,000 acres (22,260 ha)
ln 2017, establishing whole new wine regions
Washington has long been the USA's second
biggest vine-grower; now its production
ofvin1fera wine has reached more than 10%
of Cahforn1a's vast output
Rai nless summers and autu mns m1mm1ze
disease problems The hot days and cold
nights of the desert induce good colour and
singularly well-defined flavours . Winters may
be cold and dry but at least they help keep
phylloxera at bay (virtually all vines are planted
on their own roots), as do the fa st-draining,
relatively uniform sandy soils But some
winters are so cold that they can fatal ly freeze
exposed vines, so many growers bury a cane
under a layer of topsoil as insurance.
The trend is to blend
Vine-growing here was in1t1ally even more
distinct from winemaking than in most
American states, but this has been changing.
For exam ple, the dominant wine company,
which owns Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia
Crest, Snoqual mie, and many other labels,
now grows and/or controls almost two -thi rds
ofthe grapes it needs.
There were more than 940 smaller
wineries by 2018 - three times the number
of grape-growers - so the great majority
of wineries buy in grapes, often trucking
1 710,0
00
Ko.O
10
llOKm
M1
1o
o
E
�-- --..
..
..
-·
.._
_
--�
,�
-
Mlo
o
__,
.
300 I
Wash1ngto"I PACIF-IC "JCRT�WE:.Sf · NO.. TH AMUUCA
291
them west over the Cascades. They also tend
to buy from a wide range ofgrowers and blend
heavily, so where the wi nery is rarely gives
much of a clue as to where the grapes were
grown . But things are changi ng fa st, and
artisan operations with as much emphasis on
growing, or at least finding, superior grapes as
on making wine are becoming more common.
It is sti ll relatively rare for Washington
vintners to grow all their own grapes (in
contrast tothetrad1t1onal Oregon model).
Partly so as to keep all blending options
open, the giant Columbia Valley AVA
You can see quite easily in this picture of
Ginkgo Wi nery's "information hut" in the
Wah/uke Slope AVA just how uninhabited,
and sunny in summer, Wa shington wine
coun try is.
(encompass ing eastern Was hington's
more specific AVAs mapped here) and the
ultra-flexible term "Washington State" are
widely used in preference to more specific
appellations - although single-vi neyard
wi nes are slowly becom ing more evident,
especial ly from the Wal la Walla Valley.
COLUMBIA VALLEY
The Columbia Valley has been sprouting AVAs in the north - see
Ancient Lakes opposite and Lake Chelan mapped on p.295. Red
Mountain, mapped m detail bottom left, is virtually m Richland.
WASHINGTO N: PROSSER �
Latitude / Elevation of W
46.2° I 830ft (253ml
A growing eason temp at W
64.0 " F cn.a •c)
Average annual ramfall at WS
8.9in (227mm)
Harvest month rainfall at WS
October: a.Sin (19mm)
Pr11
1
tpal viticultur.il h<lzard
Winter freeze
•I•
c
o
0
T
E
"'f
'
'G

A
il
.!.
c
o
0
T
300
NORTH AMERICA · PAC IFIC NORTHWEST Washington
WALLA WALLA VA LLEY
Walla Walla has the greatest concentration of
fam ous Washi ngton wineries, but a substantial
proportion of the grapes they vlnify are grown
across the border in Oregon . The Walla Walla
Valley AVA straddles the state line
I
. ____,.--
--·\
Portland OREGON /
State boundary
- AVA
•.l
ll
lVA
Notable producer
· � Noted vineyard
Vineyards
Woods
-20
00
-
Contour interval 40
0
feet
The Yakima Valley 1s Washington's
oldest designated wine region, carved by
the Yak ima River on its way east to join the
Columbia, its fe rti le far mland and cattle
ranches overlooked by snowy Mount Adams .
Syrah has shown potential here as a savoury
but fru ity ad dition to Washington's more
trad itional roster of grapes. Red Willow
Vineyard in the northwest of the val ley was
one of the first to plant 1t, and now it is
grown throughout the state. Rattlesnake
H iiia within the Yak ima Valley makes the
state's most Bordeaux-like reds Snipes
Mountain, a hill to the south, has some of
the state's oldest vi nes, and 1s another
relatively recent, and tmy, AVA In the far
southeast of the Yakima Valley, the town of
Prosser, site of the new Walter Clore Wme
and Culinary Center, has provided a focus
for the wine industry
Between the Yakima Valley and the
Columbia River, the HorH Heaven Hiiia
boast some ofthe state's largest and most
important vineyard s. The extensive
vineyards on the bluffs above the river, and
those clustered around Champoux, are
especially noteworthy
To the north and eut of the Ya kima Valley
are some ofthe state's warmest vineyards
of all, including the fa mous Wa hluke llope,
which runs down from the Saddle Mountains
to the Columbia River, tilting vines southwards
towards the summer sun, and allowing cold
II
See the introduction to the
Pacific Northwest on p.294
fo r more information about
this Oregon AVA.
1 Q6,00
0
KmO
10
20Km
1-
-
����,.
..
..
.._���..
..
..
�-
Milo
o
O
10Milo
o
air to dram away m winter. Merlot and
Syrah are widely planted here but the
small, wate r-limited Red Mountain AVA
merits its reputation for supple, long-lived
Cabernet Sauv1gnon The Naches Heights
AVA, northwest ofthe city of Ya kima, has
unique soils and claims the potential to
prod uce d1stmct1ve wines from its very
limited plantings.
Summers as far inland as Walla Walla Valley
are also warm, even hot; winters are sunny
but can turn dangerously cold, and rainfall on
the slopes around the genteel college town of
Wal la Wal la 1s high enough for some vineyards
to be dry-fa rmed. Walla Walla 1s still where
many of the state's most sought-after reds
are made, 1f not grown . The AVA, pioneered
m the early 1980s by Leonetti and Woodward
Canyon, spills south mto Oregon on the
northern flanks of the Blue Mountains, to
include hundreds of acres ofvmes around
the original Seven Hills Vineyard
Th• rlsht direction
The Washington wine scene has grown so
rapidly that most of its vines are still young.
They are planted on young, light soils, often
from single clones. In the very early days,
most vines were grown, and crops boosted,
by fruit far mers rather than winemakers.
Now most of the state's best producers buy
grapes by the acre, not the ton, and manage
their own rows co-operatively with the
grower. Yields are down, quality is up, with
the best wines sharing the deep colour, crts�
acidity, and bright, frank flavours that typify
Washington wme, as well as having ad mirable
intensity of rich, soft fr uit.
Only certai n sites m this continental
climate will ripen Cabernet Sauv1gnon fully,
while Merlot has a much clearer 1dent1ty
here than in California, but is inconveniently
susceptible to winter freeze. Cabernet Franc
has its followers, and not iust because 1t is
hard ier. Petit Verdot, Malbec, Mourvedre,
Tem pranillo, and Sangiovese are al l grown
successfu lly, albeit m small quant1t1es, and
are mostly used m blends . There are even
small plantings of Pmot No1r
Riesling was widely planted m1t1ally and
then fe ll out offavour, only to find new
popularity as a crisp, aromatic alternat!Vlt
to Chardonnay Indeed Ste. M ichelle Wine
Estates 1s now the world's largest Riesl ing
producer and has aiomt ve nture, the Erolca
brand, with Ernl Loosen of Bernkastel
Ancient LakH (north of Wahluke Slope},
which has long grown many of the state's
finest aromatic white wme grapes Plnot
Gris and Gewurztrammer as well as
Riesling has its own AVA, and many
established vineyard s, 1f very few wineries.
Its Sauv1gnon Blanc can be truly bracing
Sem illons such as L' Ecole No 41 's show that
the grape can really shme when given the
chance, which 1t rarely 1s

towat riswhat
tat vin ya rd ctr typica lly
tho e who were th first
Wuh•l"'gton PACIFIC NOR THWE<;T • NO.. TH AMl.. ICA
301

302
NORTH AMERICA
California
Over eighty per cent of all North American
wine is grown in California: more wine than
in any country outside Europe. And the
Pacific Ocean 1s the dominant I nfluence.
California's wine geography presents a series
of surprises, and much more variety than
outsiders give 1t credit for The pote ntial of
a vineyard site 1s linked hardly at all to
latitude but 1s crucially determined by what
hes between it and the ocean. The more
mountains there are between the site and the
sea, the less chance there 1s of marine air,
often fog, reach mg 1t to moderate the chmate .
The inshore water of the Pacific here 1s so
cold that 1t causes a perpetual fog bank all
summer just off the coast. Each day that the
temperatures approach 90°F (32°CJ inland,
the r1smg hot air draws the fog inland to fill
its space. The Golden Gate Bridge m San
Francisco straddles its most fa mous pathway,
but everywhere up and down the coast where
the Coast Ranges dip below about 1,500ft
(460m), cold Pacific air spills over and cools
the land. Certain valleys that lie end-on to the
ocean, particularly In Santa Barbara County,
act as fu nnels that allow sea air to invade as
far as 75 miles (120km) Inl and.
So effe ctively are cool winds sucked off
the Pacific over San Francisco Bay that they
even have an effect on the climate m the
Sierra Foothills, nearly 150 miles (240 km)
inland Smee foggy San Francisco Bay 1s
northern Californ ia's ch1ef air-condit1oning
unit, vineyards close to its WB:ters can be
rather cool, too - such as those of Carneros,
skirting the south of Napa and Sonoma
counties. W1thm the inland Napa Valley,
sheltered from Pacific infl uence by its al m ost
unbroken ridge of western hills, 1t is the most
southerly vineyards surroundmg the town of
Napa that are the coolest . Thanks to cooling
Pacific infl uence via Knight's Val ley m eastern
Sonoma, the northern hm1t of Napa Valley 1s
not its hottest overal l That dubious honour
goes to St Helena, two -thirds ofthe way up
the val ley - a fine exam ple ofthe complexity
of Cahforn ia geography.
The Central (or San Joaquin) Valley, the
flat far mland that still makes ag riculture a
powerful force w1thm California's economy
Thebe t-known climale clas ifi ation schemefor
v1t1culture wa develop ed for California by
professors Amerine and Wi n kle r of UC Davis (the
agricultural campu of the University of California)
on thebasis ofdata available in the 1940 . Wine
region were l assed on a scale of "growing degree
days", which measures the heat ac umulated over
50°F (l 0°C) between J Ap ril and 31 October
(northern hem isphere). The la ses broadly define
grape-variety suitability (cool to hot) and wine tyle
polentrnl (light Lo full -bodied andfortified wines) .
For example, ac ording towhat became known as the
Win kle r climate cla sification, in Region I o nly
very early- ri p ening varietie , mostly hybrid , will
produce high-quality, light-bodied tablewines.
Heglon IIIis uited to theproduttion ofhigh-quality,
full-bodied wine, and Hegion Vis ty pically uited to
high-volume production, fortified wines, and table
grapes. Since theclass fi ntion was devised, average
temperat ures have risen, so that growing degree days
in each wine -produc ing area have probably ri 'CJ\ by
between 200 and 500, whi h may well have
implications for what ea h area is best suited to, and
is now be mg studied by scientist to under tand
t h ese changes b ette r. Climatologi t Dr Gregory
Jones has also adapted the Winkler mdex to
w ine -growi ng co nditions ou tsid California, as
bhown here for the Pa Ifie orthwest.
- Too cool
Region la J 50
0
lo 2,00
0
degree day;
0R•g1onlb 200
0
lo 2.50
0
degree days
Region II 2 50
0
to 3.00
0
degree days
- Region Ill 3,00
0
lo 3,50
0
degree day<
LJRg1onIV350
0
lo400
0
degree days
RegionV�00
0
to500
0
degree days
-Toohot
(and grows three-quarters of the state's
wme grapes), is too far inland to be directly
influenced by the Pacific. It is one of the
world's sunniest wine regions, with a hotter'
drier climate than almost anywhere el$s in
this At l as. Irrigation, although 1ncrea$1ng(y
expensive and controversial, is essentia.t,
D ry-fa rming is the dream of ambitlOus
wine-growers everywhere; it is a distant Ol'le
m most of California. Only m certain part&of
the North Coast is there enough rain and
avai lable water to make 1t possible to do
without irrigation .
The key facts panels show that summers
are very much drier than those of most
European wine regions. Total annual rainfall
1s not exceptionally low but it does tend
to be concentrated in the first few months
of the year, topping up the reservoirs used
throughout the summer fo r 1rr1gation.
In the ty pically warm California Septembers,
atypical rain can wreak havoc. Autumn rams
are very unusual, however, a fa ct that allows
growers to prolong the grapes' "hang time•
al most as long as they like, or are asked to by
the wine producers to whom they sell. ThlS 1s
just one important reason why California
wines tend to be especially potent.
The most important of California's 120-plus
AVAs are mapped opposite and on the
following pages. Some of the v1t1cultu ral
areas are so small that they affect only one
winery, while the capacious North Coast AVA,
for exam ple, encompasses much of Lake,
Mendocino, Napa, and Sonoma counties
Looking beyond the brand
A few excellent winemakers ignore AVAs,
preferring to use good grapes from wherever
they can get them, but many others are as
precise about md1v1dual sites as they can be.
Hundreds of md1v1dual vineyard names are
now m use on labels - powerful confirmation
that California 1s moving on from the stage
where 1t was only the grape variety and the
brand name that counted. Geography has
definitively entered the picture, although
many producers use custom crush fac 1lit1es
and own little other than a label and the
barrels they store there.
Fashion has always been important m
California. The infl uence of critics, scores,
and near-instant pubhc commentary mean
that producers and consumers tend to act
more uniformly than you would normally
expect mageographical unit roughly halfthe
size of France. Recent vineyard trends have
included better match mg of grape variety
to a specific site, more densely planted vines
from a wider variety of clones, with much
more controlled, less den se foliage, more
precise 1rr1gation, increased awaren ess
of the concept of sustai nab1hty, and, above
all, m this centu ry, a new appreciation of
freshness as opposed to super-ripeness

fort Brogg g
State boundary
County boundary
AVA boundaries not shown or not completed
on larger-scale maps are d1sbngu1shed by
coloured lines
MADERA AVA
•HJ GAU.Ct Notable producer (not mapped elsewhere)
� Area mapped at larger scale on page shown
1 2,63 1,578
One of the few benign effect of Prohibition
in the US was that when there was no point in
making wine, many vineyard were imply
abandoned. Itwas not worth the cost ofpulling
out vines. The res ult isthat Califorma, where o
many vi ne were planted in the late 19th ce ntury,
has a ri ch heritage of ancient vu1e . The Historic
Vi n eyard Society was formed in 201 1 to keep a
record of these and to protect them. Th eir registry
of m o re than 1,800 acres (730 ha) of vine more
than 50 yea rs old include many vmeyard that
date from the 1880s
112
,.I
'
,'
)
II
PLUMAS
I
I
CALIFORNIA • NO.. TH AMllUCA
aot
CAL.,OlltNIA'I MAJO!lt
WINll lltllGIONS
,,
0P ortolo
'-
-
-------
� North Coast Is a pretty extensive portion
of a vast state. But an even larpr area -
from San Francisco all the way down to
Santa Barbara - qualifies u Central Coast,
and more and more ofIt hube
en
planted
with Callfornla's most valuable crop (after
cannab is): grapH.
SIERRA
.
1
,,.,.
.-
-.
_,
\_______.
.
ll' Truckee J
,- ---0-�
(I)'
'
"'
.J. '/Morkl�olle ,
I
Q
'
'
\,,.\
('-
--
,
'
'"'\o-'
"'
,
CJ
Mono
'
'
�
1Dke
�"'
•"--
""'"\
•
M0N0
--'\.__./'
').)
..
..-
--
,
/
,
.
c:<)l
�--.
._
INY0
'
.
\
L.
'
_
___
,_
�depe'!,clence
:
,'
r
KINGS :
LI
'
'-
-
-
'
L.
'
L.
..
'
I
--�
I
TULARE
0Deiono
__,_ ,,./5 akersfield
C
KERN
f ( Bueno
\-.
..
..,
,
Vista Lake
"
\_
\0-
..
..
._
__
..
._
__
_
ll'- -
-
'L
;;',..
-
-
-
,-�
--
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
\
\ LOS ANGELES
VENTURA
\
I
c
'
T

•
..
•
c
c
o
0
T
304
NORTH AMERICA • CALIFORNIA
Mendocino and Lake
Mendocino County is California's
northernmost outpost of the vine. Its
most distinctive wine region is the
Anderson Valley, where ocean fogs drift
In without hindrance between the coastal
hills to hang thick and low.
The Navarro River tumbles down the val ley
through resin-scented redwoods Long ago a
few rec lusive Ital ian fam ilies discovered that
Zmfan del ripens splendidly here on hillsides
we ll above the fog hne, but most of
Anderson Valley has a super-cool ripening
season - particularly in its lower reaches
below the town of Philo. As Navarro
Vineyards continues to prove, Riesling and
Gewurztrammer are perfectly in tune with
the climate Roederer of Cham pagne has
shown, from 1982, that the Anderson Valley
can also yield fine fizz, while worthy Pinot
Noir 1s emerging from a plethora
of smal ler producers such as Drew
and Handley, as well as the more
established Duckhorn's Goldeneye
winery at Philo.
MENDOCINO: UKJAH
Lat itude ElcvatJon of WS
39 15' / 633ft (193m)
Av<: 1 age )lrow1ng �caso n tem pcru turc ut W
65.B'F (18.8°C)
hl'rngt• annunl rainfoll al WS
3 9.91n (1,014mm)
Il.11 H''t month rainfall atWS
Septe mber: 0.4in (11mm)
1'1 1n( l(Jdl >ilJcu llural lw zanJs
Ove r · wlnt r drought, rain at harvest
1'1 lilt lpaJ gr.ipe vm 1elle'
W S uvlgnon Blanc, Chardonnay;
R Zlnf nd I, Cabornet Sauvlgnon, Merlot
t•
There 1s good natural ac 1d1ty, too, In wines
from Yorkville Highlands to the southeast,
but the bulk of Mendocino's plantings are to
be found In much warmer, drier cond itions,
we ll tucked In behind tbe coastal hills that
rear up to 3,000ft {900 m) north of
Cloverdale and the Sonoma county line,
protected from Pac ific fogs . The fogs do not
reach Ukiah, nor very often Redwood Valley,
and their wines {from some deep alluvial soils)
are ty pically fu ll-bodied, often rather soft,
reds made from Cabernet, Petite Sirah, or,
from ancient vines above Ukiah, spicy
Zmfan del The distinctly cooler Potter Valley
1s good for aromatic varieties and can make
fine botryt1zed wines.
County boundary
� AVA
UIU!Y
Notable producer
·=- Noted vineyard
Vlney1rds
Woods and chlpirral
bJQ
Contour Interval 50
0
feet
..
.
Weather sta!IOl1 (WS)
•I•
The oldest winery in Mendocino is Parducc1,
now owned by the Thornhtl
l
family. It was
fo unded in 1932, a date that proclaims a
v1s1onary, for Proh1bit1on was stlll rn force
Fetzer set down roots m 1968 to become
iustly celebrated as a source ofdependable
value and as one clear, confident, early
advocate of organic wine production in a ste
so well suited to 1t Growers here have begum
to experiment with Ital ian varieties such as
Cortese and Nebb1olo outside Hopland.
Lake County to the east 1s as warm as the
head of the Napa Valley 40 miles {64km) to
the south and valued for its fruity Cabernet
Sauvignon, Z1nfan del, and, unexpectedly,
Sauv1gnon Blanc at attractive prices. It grows
10,000 acres (4,000 ha) of vines but has only
40 wineries, of which Brassfield, Hawk &
Horse, Obsidian Ridge, Steele, and Wildhurst
are some of the more successful. Rather than
filling bottles labelled Clear Lake {the local
AVA) much of 1ts prod uce goes to bulk out
wines labelled Napa and even more distant
AVAs (15% of any California wine may come
from outside the region cited on the label).
<I
1 575,00
0
KmO
10
2011
11
i-
-
���..
.-
..
..
..
��..
.-
�-
Molo
o
O
N

Northern Sonoma
Sonoma County grows far more grapes
than Napa Cou nty in more varied
conditions, with more potential for
planting in cooler areas, notably those on
the coast. Sonoma is also where fine wine
started In California, early in the 19th
century, even if in the late 20th century It
was eclipsed by Napa's seminal role In the
state's wine renaissance.
Te rroir With the Coast Ranges in the west,
the Mayacamas in the east, and rolling hills
between, vineyards range from sea level to
2,SOOft (850 m) in elevation with profoundly
varied soils and aspects.
Climate A mix of cool, maritime exposure
on the coast and in the western areas of
the Russian River Valley and Petaluma Gap,
and hot inland areas in the Dry Creek and
Alexander val l eys.
Grapes W: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc;
R· Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Zlnfandel, Merlot
As ever in Cal ifornia, climate 1s a fu nction of
the penetration of Pacific breezes, fogs, and
the resu ltant cloud cover. Just south of the
area mapped overleaf 1s the wide dip in the
Coast Ranges known as the Petal uma Gap
(see panel overleaf). Thanks to this opening,
the vineyards 1n the south (and off the main
map) are the coolest - often being shrouded
in mist until 11 in the morning and from 4 in
the afte rnoon.
Russian River Valley, for instance, is one
of Sonoma's cooler AVAs. Its bou ndary was
exte nded southwards in 2005 to incorporate
al l those vineyards sq uth of Sebastopol,
but north ofthe Petal uma Gap AVA, within
t he fog zone. (In 2011, the AVA grew yet
agai n, at the behest of Gallo, to include the
behemoth's Two Rock Vineyard shown in
the far southeast corn e r. ) The Sebastopol
Hills area, sometimes called southern
Sebastopol, I s slap-bang in the path of the
fog that swirls in th rough the Petal uma Gap,
although the Sebastopol Hills are above the
most direct impact ofthe wind that deflnes
the Petal uma Gap. Even so, It can be a
CALIFORNIA • NOlitTH AMllitlCA
IOI
Pac1nc fog drifts In the background a• Plnot
No1r grapes are harvested by Hinch Vineyard•
on the Sonoma Coast In a location that must
have seemed extraordinarily riskyIn th• 1PBO•,
when the nrs t vinH were planted
struggle to ripen a commercial crop in the
ch1lhest nooks of the Petal uma Gap, and the
coolest parts of Russian River Val ley,
particularly in its GrHn Valley sub-AVA ,
where Mar1 mar Estate, Iron Horse, and
Joseph Phelps' (of Napa Val ley) Freesto ne
winery are leading producers The res ult
can, however, be brilliantly lively wine Both
the Sebastopol Hills and Green Val ley are on
sandy Goldr1dge soil, while Laguna Ridge
JUSt east of Green Val ley has the sandiest,
fastest-d rai ning soil of all.
Away from the Petal uma Gap, the Russian
River Val ley gradually warms up. Williams
Selyem, Roch1oh, and Gary Farrell, some of
the first to draw atte ntion to this characterful
regi on, are clustered on Westside Road, on
the heav ier soils of the banks of the Russian
River itself, in much warmer cond1t1ons than
many ofthe newcomers. Grapes only replaced
apples as the principal crop here, along the
winding roads of the val ley's fa rming country
with its old oaks and banks of flowers, as
recently as the 1990s
Chard onnay was initially the most
celebrated grape variety, but it was the
richness of Russian River Pinot No1r, with
its red -berry flavours, that drew cr1t1cal
at tention to the region Thanks to the
regu lar fog shroud, the levels of ac idity
usually remai n notably and refreshingly
high here - unless heat spikes in August
and September rush ripening. The lowest,
sometimes frost-prone, vineyards tend to
be the coolest, because this 1s where the
fog hangs longest. Vineyards above the fog
line such as Martinelli's Jackass Hill and
Dutton's Morelli Lane have long provided
notable Zinfan del from vines origi nally
planted by Italians who settled here after
the Gold Rush. Higher-elevation vi neyards
are also showing promise with Syrah
Some of the finest fr uit in the Russian River
Val ley inland comes from east-fac ing
vineyard s where the risk of ra1sining is
minimal; south-fac ing sites, on the other
hand, help to maximize ripening in the
coolest local conditions.
Chalk Hill to the northeast , southeast
of Healdsburg, has its own AVA and is also
somewhat anomalously included in Russian
River Val ley, being much warmer and having
volcanic soils. The most important
producer 1s also called Chalk Hill. The most
significant grape, so fa r, 1s Pmot Noir,
although as temperat ures rise, Cabernet
Sau v1gnon and Merlot are increasingly
planted instead The Inclusion in the
Russian River AVA ofthe northern loop of

306
NORTH AMERICA · CALIFORNIA Northern Sonoma
the Russian River around Healdsburg, far
from the cooling influence of fog, is equally
difficult to justify climatologically.
The cool coast
Between Russian River Valley and the ocean
are some ofthe most exciting producers
in the coolest reaches of the absurdly
extensive Sonoma Coast AVA, which
incorporates a total of halfa million acres
from Mendocino down to San Pablo Bay.
There 1s now strong pressure to develop
more geographically specific AVAs within it.
The first, Fort Ross-Seavlew AVA, was
approved in 2012, encompassing the highest
section ofthe coastal mountai ns well above
the fog line Thanks to a combination of the
elevation and proximity to the ocean, daytime
temperatures can vary enormously, from
100°F (37.8°C) down to positively chilly in the
coastal fog. Pinot No1r dominates plantings
in Fort Ross-Seaview, but limited plantings of
Syrah are showing real potential, and warmer
sites on the eastern side ofthe AVA can yield
convincing, if re latively fresh, Cabernet
Sauvignon. Because the San Andreas Fa ult
runs directly through the middle of the AVA,
there 1s an extraord inary mix of soils, from
the sandy Goldr1dge of Russian River to a mix
of sedimentary, volcanic, and metamorphic
rocks The wide variation of soils, elevations,
marine exposures, and or1entat1ons means
that with care you can find a good site for
many different grapes.
North of the Russian River
The densely planted AVAs to the north of
Russian River Val ley are perceptibly warmer,
although, as in Chalk Hill, the floor of Dry
DEFINED BY THE WIND
The Petaluma Gap was granted its own AVA ,
out lined on the map in orange, in 2017, the
first ever tobe definedbywind and its effects.
Afternoon breezes throughout the AVA r egula rly
reach 8 mph (l3 km/h) and more, slowing fruit
dcv lopmenlduringthegrowingsea on.This
tends to result in mailer berries and wine with
marked ac idity and phe nolics, including tannins.
Fas hionable Pinot OIT dominates p l a ntings,
although Syrah •hows promise. hardonnay 1s
widelyplanted
Clay is comm on near the coa'>l while inland so 1b
arc more gravelly, withquite a mix in between
As a rc sull, large portion� of t he A
wher 01ls
are poor and wa ler 1s lrmiled are unlikely lo be
planted with vin es.
As the inland valley air warms up, cool
coastal air 1s pulled through the 15- m1/e -
l(24 km - ) wide gap m the Coast Ranges
at Bodega Bay
--
-J
Creek Valley 1s cooler than the hills ides. It
can be pos1t1vely dam p at times, particularly
at the southern end - com pare Healdsburg's
annual rainfall with that of somewhere as
close as the town of Sonoma (see p.309)
As in Russian River Valley, this encouraged
19th-century Italian settlers to plant the
rot- prone Zinfandel above the fog line and
fa rm 1t without irrigation. Dry Creek Valley
still has a re putation for some of the finest
examples of th1s finicky0
var1 ety. Throughout
these northern California valleys, the east
side, kept hotter for longer by the glow of
the setting sun, tends to make fu ller wines
than the west . The best benchland sites
in the canyon enclosing Dry Creek Valley
benefit from a well-drained mixture of gravel
and red clays known as Dry Creek Valley
conglomerate . Zinfandel and Cabernet thrive
here, while the val ley floor is left to white
wine var1et1es, particularly Sauv1gnon Blanc.
Dry Creek Vineyard showed the way as early
as 1972, while more recently Qu1v1ra, an early
convert to biodynamics, makes both good
Sauv1gnon Blanc from the val ley floor and
fine hillside Zinfandel. Rhone varieties have
also been added to the mix, with Preston
Vineyards leading the way Some interesti ng
Cabernet Sauvignon is made on the h1lls1des,
too, particularly by A Rafan elli.
The broader, more open Alexander
Valley north of Healdsburg 1s warmer still.
Quite low hills shelter it from ocean
influence. On its al luvial soils Cabernet 1s
consistently ri pened to distinctive, almost
chocolatey richness, while lower ground
near the river can yield some appetizing, 1f
fa irly rich, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.
There are eve n some old Zinfandel vines -
NORTHERN SONOMA:
HEALDSBURG
Lati tude / Elevation of WS
38.62° / 108ft (33m)
Ave rage growi ng season temperature at W
67.1 °F (19. 5°C)
Ave rage annual rai nfall at WS
44in (1,116mm)
Harvest month rai nfall at WS
September: 0.31n (8mm)
Pri ncipal v1ticultural hazards
Autu mn rain
including Ridge's fam ously ancient, m1xed­
variety Geyserville vineyard .
Stonestreet's Alexander Mountain Estate
supplies some of Cahforma's most
celebrated Chardonnay in quite different,
cooler conditions than the val ley floor
450ft (140 m) below. Also at high elevations,
Cabernet Sauv1gnon fro m the mountain can
yield recognizably cool-climate wi ne. Local
knowledge 1s everything in Cal ifornia; the
complexity and specificity ofits terro1rs
can eas ily baffle outsiders.
Knights Valley, southeast of Alexander
Val ley, and al m ost an extension ofthe head
of the Napa Valley, 1s warmer than Dry Creek
Val ley but cooler (because 1t 1s higher) than
Alexander Val ley. Peter Michael, owned by
and named after an Englishman, prod uces
fine Chardonnay and Cabernet from the
estate's volcanic soils up to 2,000ft (600 m)
and 1,500ft (450m) above sea level,
respectively. Syrah can also prosper here

High-profile Sonoma Coast
pioneers include Flowers and
Marcassin, with Hirsch both
$Upplying fr uit and making its
qwn almost burgundian wines.
1 280,00
0
KmO
10Km
1-�
��
�-
--
-�
�-.-�-'
-0
---
County boundary
Vineyards
- AVA
Woods and chaparral
Contour Interval 40
0
fe
e
t
...
..
Notable produc.r
..
.
Weather station (WS)
·= Noted vineyard
Northern Sonoma CALIFORNIA · NOlltTH AMllUCA
"1
1
NORTHERN SONOMA AVA
The vast Northern Sonoma AVA, which covers most of this map,
was created so that Gallo, whose Sonoma estate repreeented
the company's first Cahforma sortie out of the Central Valley,
could use a more specific appellation than Sonoma County for
Its estate brands.
D
£

I08
Southern Sonoma and Carneros
This is where fine wine, or the first
atte mpt at it, began in California, around
the former mission, garrison town, and,
briefly, state capital ofSonoma. It was at
M1ss1on San Francisco de Solano, founded in
1823, that the Franciscan monks, moving up
the Pacific coast, planted their last and most
northerly vineyard, introducing the vine to
one of its friendliest environments on earth.
The town of Sonoma has all the at mosphere
of a little wine capital - in fa ct, of the capital
of a very little republic: the original, if
short-lived, Bear Flag Republic of California.
Sonoma's tree-shaded square, with its old
mission buildings and barracks, its stone­
built city hall, and ornate Sebast1ani Theatre,
is thickly layered with history.
The hills overlooking the town were the site
of Agoston Haraszthy's fa mous pioneer estate
of the 1850s and '60s. Part of his Buena Vista
cellars stlll stands in the side-valley to the
east, and has been restored by its new owner,
Burgundian Jean Charles Bo1sset
Like the Napa Valley, but in a smaller
compass, the Sonoma Valley 1s cooled in the
south by Pac ific fogs and wind and 1s
progressively warmer towards the north, in
this case intothe lee ofSonoma Mountain,
which shelters the valley from weste rn
storms and cool ing ocean breezes The
Mayacamas Mountains, Napa Va lley's
western edge, constitute the eastern
boundary There 11 plenty of evidence that
this AVA can &row excellent Chard onnay,
1tartln1 with Hanzell in the 19501. Landmark
Vineyard's local output, K1stler's Durell
bottling, Durell Vineyard owner Bill Price's
own wi nes, and Sonoma- Cutrer's Les P1erres
vineyard (Just west of Sonoma town) confirm
it. On the slopes ove rlooking Sonoma Valley,
Hanzell also pioneered Pinot No1r, an
increasingly popular choice with growers.
Even more importantly, Hanzell pioneered
the use of French oak barrels and started
a revolution. On the val ley floor, daytime
warmth leads to a richer, riper style of Pinot.
Some old-vine Z1nfandels such as those in
Kunde's Shaw Vineyard, the Old Hill Vineyard,
and Pagani Ranch, were all planted in the
1880s and are, astoundingly, still produci ng.
Ly ing within the eastern side of Sonoma
Vall ey, Moon Mountain was officially
accorded its own AVA In 2013. Syrah, Merlot,
and Cabernet Sauv1gnon do well here at
higher elevations, with Cotu rri and Kamen
two of the better- known producers
Cabernet hl•tory
Ev1dence of excellent Cabernet Sauv1gnon
first came in the 1940s from Lou is Martini's
fa mous Monte Rosso vineyard (now owned
by industry giant Gallo) about 1,100ft (335 m)
up in the eastern hills, and more re cently
fr om the outstanding Laurel Glen Cabernets
from Sonoma Mountain on the opposite
side of the valley This 1s a significant upland
appellation whose best wines seem to
benefit from unusually thin, rocky soil,
altitude, and long sunshine hours. The key
to Cabernet and Zinfandel quality here 1s to
be above the fog line. Benziger is making a
sti r I n Sonoma Mountai n with its enthu•1aam
Benziger has been a true b1odynamic pioneer
m Sonoma. With a steep vineyard m the
background, this is its "in sectary garden ".
for b1odynam1c viticulture, and the nearby
Richard Dinner Vineyard 1s the source of
Pau l Hobbs' opulent Chardonnays
Adjoining the northwest boundary of
Sonoma Mountain, the Bennet
t
Valley AVA,
whose best-known winery 1s Matanzas Creek,
has similar soils to Sonoma Valley but much
more cooling marine influence. The Crane
Canyon wind gap (west ofth1s map) 1s the
secret. The area Is too cool to ripen Cabernet
Sauv1gnon reliably and Merlot has been the
dominant variety, although the fu ture may
well he with Syrah and Sauv1gnon Blanc.
At the southern end of Sonoma Valley, and
included in the AVA, 1s part of the relatively
cool Loa Carnero• d1str1ct (commonly
known as Carneros). Politically, Carneros
straddles the Napa-Sonoma county line
Both Sonoma Carneros and Napa Carneros
are mapped here as they have so much more
In common with each other than with the
rest of eac h cou nty to the north.
On the low, rol ling hills north ofSan Pablo
Bay, Los Carneros (literal ly "the ram s") 1s
dai ry cou ntry that was rapidly colonized by the
vine in the late 1980s and '90s. Winemakers
Louis Martini and Andre Tc hehstcheff had
bought Carneros fru it as early as the 1930s,
and Martini first planted P1not No1r and
Chardonnay there in the late 1940s Shallow
clay-loam soils, much less fe rtile than, for
ell&mple, the Napa Valley and Sonol'TNl Valley

1177,00
0
"
5Km
JMoi.
.
floors, help to regulate vine
vigour and product1v1ty.
Strong winds off the ocean
through the Petaluma Gap (see
p.306) rattle the vine leaves when
hot
t
er weather to the north sucks in
cool air, particularly in the afternoons.
They slow the ripening process to such
an extent that Carneros produces some of
Callfornifts most delicate wines, making them
good base wines for sparkling wine blends.
Much hope and capital were invested here,
particularly by Rene de Rosa m his Winery
Lake vineyard in the 1960s. With sparkling
Wine originally m mmd, P mot No1r and,
especially, Chardonnay are the dominant
varret1es in vineyards regularly plundered
by wineries in warmer cou ntry to the north.
locally, Gloria Ferrer m Sonoma County
and Domaine Carneros on the Napa side,
respectively owned by giants of Cava and
champagne, both make sparkling wine fro m
estate-grown fr uit.
But growers colonized Carneros long
befo re wineries were built. Some of the
most celebnted vineyards, whose names
can be fou nd on labels fr om top producers
throughout Napa and Sonoma, are Hyde,
Hudson, Sangiacomo, and Truch ard - all
Southern Sonoma and Carneros CALIFORNIA • NOlltTH AMllltlCA
30t
SOUTHERN SO NOMA, NAPA,
AND CAPtNl!FtOS
The vine conquered th• low hllls at th• southern
end of both Sonoma and Napa Valleys In th• late
1980s and '90s, and now It continues Its
conquest of southern Napa country, wel l 1outh
of th• city of Napa almo1t to the Vallejo city
limit. The Napa name ls hu1ely valuable.
�
.w.i.t:X
•IF.NWO
OD
•�fl'rd
of them now wine producers themselves.
The best st ill wines from Carneros can be
delicious, the Chardonnays having more
ageing potential than most in California with
their crisp acidity and stone- fr uit flavo urs.
Carneros P1 not Noir, planted both with the old
Martini and Swan clones and clones imported
SONOMA VA LLEY: ' 0 OM
Ln t1lude / Eleval10n of WS
38.3• / 98h (30ml
Average g row i ng season temperature al \\ S
64.9•F (18.3'Cl
Average an nual ra infall at WS
31.41n (798mm)
Harvest mon th rainfall at WS
Septembe r: 0. 21n (6 mm)
Principal viticu ltural hazards
Over·wl nte r drought, spring frost,
rai n at harvest
Principal grape variellcs
W: Chardonnay; R : Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot
County boundary
c:
::J
Vineyards
AVA
c=i Woods and chaparral
")0
0
Contour interval 40
0
feet
Notable producer
T Weather station (WS)
Noted vineyard
from Burgundy, 1s more transparent than that
of Russian River Valley, tasting of herbs and
c herries. Saintsbury made a name for itself
with Pinot Noir from its Napa Carneros
vineyards. Syrah, Merlot, ll
l
d Cabernet Franc
can also shine here when grown m the warmer
areas In the north ofCarneros.

310
NORTH AMERICA · CALIFORNIA
Napa Va lley
Twenty per cent of the value of all
California's wine comes from the Napa
Valley - from only 4% of Its volume. Such
Is the reputation of the world's most
clamorous, most visited, and most heavily
capitalized wine region.
Te rroir Growers pride themselves on the
valley's rich diversity of soil$, some volcanic,
some marine deposits. The region's fa mous
earthquakes have stirred the m ixture. The
two mountain ranges, generally east or west
exposures, mid-elevation foothills, and fe rtile
valley floor contribute tothe diversity.
Climate Te mperate, Mediterranean
climate with warm days and reliably cool
n ights. Nightly fog helps cool the val ley
floor from both north and south so that
St Helena is the warmest part of the val ley.
Grapes R: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot;
W: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
Napa's history starts in the 1830s, its modern
history in 1966, with the construction ofthe
Robert Mondav1 Winery. The mission-style
adobe arch and global am bitions of th1s iconic
cellar signalled the start ofthe transformation
of a sleepy far ming community of wal nut and
prune orchards into a monoculture of 44,400
acres (17,970 ha) of vines that 1s far more
varied than most outsiders realize. But
outsiders are now a big issue. Around 5 million
tourists a year use the val ley roads (there
are only two main ones). Most wineries open
to them for their most profitable sales.
Bizarre buildings are part of the picture,
too, as wineries com pete to be the most
memorable. Related development 1s out of
hand; suffocation is not far off.
The soil that produces these spectacular
re sults can vary by the yard . In broad terms
the val ley 1s the res ult of the Napa River
eroding its way between the Mayacamas
Mountai ns on the west and the Vaca range
on the east Their respective peaks are the
vo lcanic outflows of Mount Veeder in the west
and Atlas Peak and Mount George (east of the
city of Napa and off our map), responsible at
various times for a wide range of mineral
deposits, enriched in terms of soil diversity
by a series of smaller fa ult lines throughout
the valley. Solls are thinnest, oldest, and
least fe rtile on the sides of the valley, while
the val ley floor 1 s dominated by deep, fe rtile
al luvial clays and gravels, particularly on the
west side below the Mayacamas. The fo llowing
page& give more detai ls.
As for climate, as elsewhere in nortl'lern
California, the open (1n th11 case southern)
end of th1s narrow val ley 1s much cooler than
the northern end, by an average of about
10°F (6.3°C) during the summer In fa ct,
Carneros (see previous page) 1s almost at
the coolest limit of fine wine prod uction, with
the new (2012) Coombsville AVA JUSt 3 miles
(5km) east of Napa city a close second.
Coombsvi l le's vines - both Bordeaux and
Burgundy varieties - are planted as high as
1,200ft (370 m), and, like those of Oak Knoll
District, are cooled by Pacific incursions
through the Petal uma Gap (see p.306) that
are fu nnelled northwards.
Parts of the northern end of the valley are
as hot as any fine wine prod ucer wo uld care
fo r, but much of the land 1s just right,
especially for the late-ripening Cabernet
Sauvignon As the air heated by the long
summer rises, 1t draws in cooling draughts
of ocean air from Russian River Val ley m
Sonoma, through Knights Valley (see p.307),
and around Diamond Mountai n and Spring
Mountain . N1ght-t1me fogs are common,
especially in the south ofthe val ley, add ing
a fu rther cooling ingredient to the mix.
In very general terms then, wines tend to
taste progressively richer with riper tan nins
the fu rther north they are grown (though see
p.302) Hillside wines have more structure
and concentrat ion than their val ley floor
counterparts. The less fe rt ile hillsides are
slowly being colonized by the vme, despite
problems, particularly at higher elevations,
with erosion and persistent land -use disputes.
Hillside vineyards both east and, particularly,
west ofthe valley benefit from strong morning
sunshine above a val ley floor shrouded m fog.
Then cool breezes bathe the mountai ntops
m the late afte rnoon while the val ley floor
radiates heat trapped below an 1nvers1on
l aye r. The grapes love 1t
But it can be difficult for the consumer to
know exactly where a Napa Valley wme was
grown . In reality, many, 1f not most, wines
contai n fr uit fr om a variety ofsites all over
the valley and carry the potent, 1f vague,
Napa Val ley appellation rather than one of
the more spec11'1c sub-appellations mapped
opposite There are 420 wine ries (almost
95% of them fa mily owned, despite an
The Napa Valley wine train solves the drinking
problem on a round trip between Napa and
St Helena, stopping at wineries along the way.
increase m outside investment) and around
700 grape growers More than in many other
fine wi ne regions there has been a separation
between those who look after the vines and
those who buy their fr uit to make wme.
Recently, however, there have been some
moves toward estate-grown and even
s i ngle-vineyard wines labelled with one of
the su b-appellations.
Napa•s own ..-.pe
As anyone who has enjoyed one of the val ley's
rich, smooth, but fr esh examples can testify,
Cabernet Sauv1gnon is the Napa Valley's
grape. Until the 1990s a real mix of varieties
was planted, and m the middle of the 20th
century Zinfandel and Petite S1rah were fa r
more common than Cabernet. But m the
1980s and '90s there was a severe phylloxera
crisis; a rootstock (AX- R1) widely accepted u
phylloxera-resistant succumbed to the
devastating aphid. A huge area of vines had
to be torn out and re planted . One result was
a massive increase m the area devoted to
Cabernet Sauv1gnon. And no wonder. Napa's
best Cabernets are incontrovertibly some of
the world's most successful. They have
unparalleled opulence and exuberance, yet
the best have fine structure, too.
The warmer temperatures and drier
cond1t1ons (than, for exam ple, Bordeaux)
also make 1t possible to bottle Cabernet
Sauv1gnon unblended (with, for exam ple,
Merlot). and the riper wines from the valley
floor can be enjoyed when only thl"ee OI" four
years old. Historic sites from the celebrated
benchland soils of the valley, such as those
of Beaulieu, Inglenook, and the To KaJon
vineyard, have also shown that their
Cabernet can age beautifully for 50 years.
Mountain Cabernet proves to be one of
California's unique contl"i but1ons to the
world of wine. Nowhere else Is so much of th•
variety produced at high el evation . Since the
most Interesting and affordable land on the
valley floor was occupied, you nger produc rs

Calistoga
and Diamond
Mountain
border Knights
Valley in
Northern
Sonoma.
NAPA VALLEY: ST HELE A
Lat itude / Elevation of WS
38.5° / 226ft (69mJ
Ave rage growing season temperature at WS
66.8 °F (19.3 °C)
Ave rage annual rai nfall at WS
36.6in (931mm)
Harv est month rai nfall at WS
September: 0.3in (7mm)
Principal viticultural hazards
Over�winter drought, spring frost, heat
spikes, autumn rain
PrincipaI grape varieties
R: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel;
W: Chardonnay
rn the 1970s moved mto the mountai ns.
Wines from this era such as Chappellet,
Dunn, Sm1th-Madrone, and also Mayacamas
have also proved wonderfully durable. Some
ofthem positively demand cellar time
Most Napa-labelled Chardonnay now comes
from the cooler climes ofCarneros, but some
goodSauv1gnon Blanc is produced just north
ofYountvi lle. Syrah is berng planted on some
h!Uside sites, notably Mount Veeder, and some
ftne Zmfandel 1s produced m various Napa
vineyards, particularly around Cal i stoga and
on Mount Veeder. But despite Zmfandel's
long history m the valley, commemorated
m St Helena by Zinfandel Lane, little of 1t
rem ains today in what 1s some of the most
12
----
Cciunty boundary
NM'AWJ.l!Y AVA
•LONG
Notable producer
e = Noted vineyard
r=
=J
Vineyards
Woods and chaparral
-1@- Contour Intervals
below 100feetevery20 fe
e
t
above100fe
e
tevery20
0
fe
e
t
�
313 Area mapped atil
l
rger
�
scale on paae shown
Weather station (WSJ
!14
Napa Valley CALIFORNIA • NO .. TH AMl.. ICA
311
I 175,00
0
ICmO
I---_._-
_,.
__.
..
..
.
___.
•
..
..,
""'
MINO
4-
The Sf/verado Tr ail I• th• winding
emter/y rout• up and down th•
valley that the locals u.. when, m
•
T
E
f
f
..

312
NORTH AMERICA • CALIFORNIA Napa Val ley
expensive vineyard land in the world (see
p.47). What rs planted has to be what pays .
Whether they are used or not, Napa
County has one of the more highly developed
and cogent sets ofAVAs in California -
certainly more logical than Sonoma's . Napa
Valley is the popular general AVA and
includes not just the world-famous main
valley, with its extraord inary concentration
of am bitious restau rants, art galleries, and
gift shops as well as wineries, but also a
considerable area of quite separate land.
The very warm Pope Valley to the northeast
will surely be colonized by wo uld-be
vrgnerons, as the Chiles Valley AVA and
American Canyon, southeast of Napa city,
already have been. This southern territory
towards the town of Val lejo haSJUSt about
proved warm enough for vineyards, too.
The valley floor
St Helena, Rutherfo rd, Oakville, and Stags
Leap in the middle stretch ofthe valley are
considered in detail overleaf. The Oak Knoll
District AVA in the south is cooler than any of
these and has the distinction of being able to
prod uce fine exam ples ofboth Riesling and
long- lived Cabernet - as long-established
Trefet hen Vineyards can attest Yountville
immediately north of here rs slightly warmer
and, even rf Domrnus owes rts fa me to
Cabernet, has a particular affinity with Merlot.
This grape thrrves on some of the clay- rrch
alluvral fa ns found rn thrs AVA, characterrzed
TEMPERATURE VARIATION 11\1 Tf.olit
by massive blocks of u neroded rock that form
the area's highly d1sti nct1ve knolls.
At the northern end of the valley, Calistoga,
now with its own AVA, rs all but surrounded by
mountai ns - Mount St Helena to the north and
the Mayacamas range to the west and east
- which capture cold wi nter arr at night and
bring spring fr osts, a perennial threat to all
valleyfloor vineyards. Sprinkler systems and
tal l wind machines are ari eye -catching local
feat ure ofthe vineyards on the.volcanic soils
around the town . Here, Chateau Montelena
and the Eisele Vineyard (previously Araujo, a
b1odynam1c pioneer bought by the owner of
Chateau Lato ur in Bordeaux) are the best­
known estates Diamond Mountain District,
JUSt southwest of the town, 1s best known for
Diamond Creek Vineyard, an early exponent of
ad mirably vineyard-designated bottlings from
its several different soil types.
Hillside vineyards
Mountain vineyards have become increasingly
important in Napa Valley. All along the western
ridge are single- minded ind1v1duals perceived,
not least by themselves, as very different
creatures from those on the valley floor below.
Spring Mountain District benefits not just
from elevation but from cool Pacific ar r Stony
Hill became the prototype for Napa Valley cult
wines with its long-lived Chardonnays and
Rieslings back rn the 1960s and rs still go ing
strong Today, many ofthe AVNs most supple
wines carry the Pride Mountain label.
Mount Veeder to the south produces
altogether tougher but highly distinctive wine
from very thin, acid soils with a strong volcanic
element not dissimilar to those fo und over
the ridge in the Sonoma Valley (Monte Rosso
1s an exam ple). The Hess Collectron, with lts
exceptional art gal lery, is Mount Veeder's
most-v isited winery. On the east side of the
valley, Dunn, O'Shaughnessy, and Robert Craig
are some of the highest achievers on the cool,
quiet, ge nerally fog-free uplands of Howell
Mountain. Just a few yards outside the
Howell Mountai n AVA, Delia Viader makes
superb exam ples of Napa mountai n Cabernet,
Franc as well as Sauvignon.
The sheltered Conn Val ley benefits from
benchland soils and 1s clearly well suited
to Cabernet Sauv1gnon Pritchard Hill,
pioneered in 1967 by Donn Chappellet, is
home to the profound, long-maturing
Cabernets of C happellet, Colgin (part-owned
by LV MH), Bryant, Ovid, and Conti nuum.
Atlas Peak hes to the south, beyond Lake
Hennessy and Pritchard Hill, on the heights
above Stags Leap, relatively high and cool,
with breezes straight fr om the San Pablo
Bay. Its thin soils were planted with a slew of
Ital ian grape var1et1es when Antinorr of Italy
arrived here in the 1990s Cabernet,
however, with particularly bright fruit and
good natural acidity, rs now the Atlas Peak
speciality, with Ant1nor1's Antica the notable
producer. Fro m edge to edge, Cabernet
Sauvrgnon 1s Napa's own grape.
The two diagra ms below left and entre, uppli ed by aliforn1a vit1cultural
consultants Te rra Sp ase, show act ual m orni n g and afternoon temperatures
on one parti cular day, dluslraling Lhe typical variance between the two ides I
of the apaValley. Note how the south of the valley i con 1stentJycool er
than the north, and the land above the fog line is much warm r th, n the
valley floor 111 the early morni ng.
EARLY MORNING TEMPERATURE
LATE AFTERNOON TEMPERATURE
CUMULATIVE GROWINr. DEGREE DAYS
�
Q St Helena
-
c
F
..
..
._,
�
40
105
'j
I
39
'
38
'
'\,
37 100
'\,
'Oyountv1llt
36
'
-
>
)
35
95
'
\.
"
""
""
.)--
�J______,

St Helena
Napa Valley•• 1reatest concentration
of fa mous wineries and ftne Cabernet
Sau vl1non vln•yards la aqueezed into the
narrow St Helena AVA, fo cused on the
only town of any •lze In the valley apart
from Napa.
Until well into the 1980s, the sidewal ks of
St Helena were patrolled only by a few local
fa rmers and their fam ilies. To day, they are
thronged by tourists, lured by art galleries,
tasting rooms, go urmet food shops, edgy
bars, fa rm-to-table restau rants, and the
inevitable gift shops. One of the most
distinctive vineyard s m California re mains
today right in the middle oftown - the h1stor1c
Library Vineyard hes alongside the St Helena
public library. It was planted between 1880
and 1920, made up of a field blend of 26
different varieties, and now provides cutti ngs
of several varieties not previously known to
have survived m California.
On many summer days Calistoga to the
northwest of St Helena 1s the vall ey's
hottest s pot. It quickly cools off, though,
thanks to breezes from the Pacific via
Kn ights Valley that lower its average
temperat ures. It 1s St Helena that 1s the
hottest sector of Napa Valley overal l, partly
because of the hourglass shape of the valley
here, formed by the proximity of the
Mayacamas and Vaca mountai ns. This
effectively locks m the daytime warmth from
the hillsides, but also helps to fu nnel cooling
breezes in the evening As a result, the
diurnal temperature variation m St Helena 1s
one of Napa Val ley's most dramatic. Summer
days may well reach 100°F (37 8°C) but at
night tempe ratures can drop towards 40°F
(4.4°C), helping keep ac id levels refreshingly
high. This means that its Cabernet
Sauvignon can ac hieve balance and nuance
without help from other var1et1es
Of course soils also shape wine quality.
A higher proportion of vineyards than m
the other Napa AVAs are on foothills or
benchlands The St Helena Bench on the
west side, initially identified by Napa's first
celebrated oenologist Andre Tc hehstcheff,
Is made up of grave lly Bale loam soils. Its
&ravels and cobbles ensure drainage and
l"etam heat, while the loam arou nd them can
retain enough water forgrowth all summer,
making irrigation optional. Historic vineyard s
l'lere mclude Spottswoode, Chase Cellars'
Hayne Vmeyard, Beckstoffer's Dr Crane, and
Su nbasket and Kronos - the last two being
Cor1son specialities.
East of Highway 29, closer to the Vaca range,
temperatures are generally even higher and
grapes even riper, while soils are more varied .
some volcanic, eroded from the Vaca
Mountai ns, some alluvial from the Napa River
The St Helena AVA 1s inevitably inconsistent,
with all its hills, knolls, twists, and turns, but
some iconic prod ucers, such as Charles Krug
and Ehlers, are based here.
St Helena 1s not iust the largest and busiest
of the valley's wine towns, it 1s also the address
of many of 1ts biggest wineries. Many ship in
wine or grapes from we ll outside the area The
fo rtunes ofSutter Home, now Tr1nchero, were
built on palest pink "White" Zmfandel bought
m from the Central Valley and Sierra Foothills
V Sattu1 1s iust one ofthe earlier examples
1-
/\
-
\
[.Calistoga � \
,.,.
r
\'
Napa.
-
\
\
1 85,00
0
KmO
2Km
______..
..
..
.
Ml
lo
o
O
lMilo
,,,
Larry Turley's vines m StHelena's fa mous
Library Vineyard look as though they could do
with a drmk, but it would be madness to uproot
such historic plants.
of a winery designed specifically for tou rists.
St Helena also boasts the vineyards of some of
the val ley's smallest, most cult1sh labels, such
as Grace Family, Vineyard 29, and Colgin Herb
Lamb, while Spottswoode and Cor1son are just
two of those that prove that, however warm,
St Helena can produce wines with real
restraint and subtlety.
County boundary
� AVA
•MAl
ll
llAM
Notable producer
·-
Vlne,anl Noted vineyard
[:=J Vineyards
c=J Woods and chaparral
100
0
Contour interval 20
0
feet
•
N)-
•I
c
ii'
D
T
E
r

314
NORTH AMERICA · CA LIFORNIA
Rutherford and Oakville
•
i
.!.
To explain Rutherford to a visitor schooled
in French wine, you might describe it as
the Pauillac of California. This 1s fu ll-
throttle Cabernet cou ntry Nearly two ­
thirds of the 3,528 acres (1,428ha) of vines
here are Cabernet Sauv1gnon and most of
the rest are other Bordeaux red grapes
grown to complement 1t
Rutherford has been prod ucing some of
California's longest-living wines since at least
the 1940s Wines of th1s era from the original
Beau lieu Vineyard and the Inglenook estate,
now owned by film director Francis Ford
Coppola, are icons. Both of these are on the
so-called Rutherford Bench on the west side
ofthe valley, a slightly elevated stretch of
sed imentary grave lly sand and alluvial fa ns
carved out by the Napa River Soils are
extremely well-drained, so conducive to
lower crops, earl ier ripening, and greater
intensity of flavour than the val ley norm
Many tasters detect a mineral element in
D
wi nes produced here, known in shorthand
as "Rutherford dust"
D
'
•
f
However, the Rutherford AVA is one of the
widest, so quality varies The many newer
vineyards in the middle of the val ley floor
are less we ll-drained and their wines tend
to age much more rapidly. The fas hion for
prolonged ripening or "hang time" has also
tended to blur Rutherford's distinction.
The other notably successful area within
the AVA 1s across the Napa River, between 1t
and Conn Creek, which gets more afte rnoon
sun. Gravelly deposits washed down from the
hills to the east res ult in another cluster of
wel l-drained vineyards. And a litt le cooling
marine influence reac hes through the
Petaluma Gap (see p.306) even as far north
as this Frog's Leap and Quintessa are two
of the outstanding wi neries here
Oakville
About halfway up the valley, Oakville benefits
from these cool breezes (directed by the
knoll marked Yountville Hills on the map),
as we ll as cooler nights. This means its
fa mous Cabernets from the we ll-drained
benchland soils on the alluvial fa ns at the
base ofthe Mayacamas tend to be a little
fr esher and ftne· boned than those of
Rutherford to the north.
Vine Hill Ranch, Harlan, and especially the
Harlan fam ily's much younger Promontory
plantings al l benefit from relatively h igh
elevations on the western side. Closer to
the valley floor, the richer Bale loams
predominate, their rockiness helping
drarnqe and moderati ng the richness
typical of the middle of the valley. The
Ulyase1 project of Chr1st1an Moue1x'1
Dominus of Yo untville 1s here, as Is the
h1stor1c To Kalon vineyard, first planted in
1868 and made fa mous by Robert Mondav1,
who located his seminal wi nery on the edge
of 1t. Such 1s the sheer, exuberant qual ity
of To Kalon Cabernet that its precise
boundaries, own ership, and name have
been much fought over. It is shared between
several owners, including Napa's dominant
vineyard owner Andy Beckstoffer and the
MacDonald fam ily.
Just south of To Kalon 1s the first Napa
vineyard to ac hieve international fa me in the
modern era. Martha's Vineyard Cabernet
was put on the map in the 1970s by the late
Joe Heitz, who consistently denied that its
minty overlay had anything to do with the
eucalyptus trees planted on its edge.
Wii
i
, son ofBil
l
Harlan
of Harlan Es tate, has
branched out, upwards,
with Promontory, part
ofa 200-year plan,
apparen tly
1 85,00
0
KmO
2Km
___..
..
.,
____
Mde.O
I,.
.
•I•
But, as 1n Rutherford, there ia a marked
diffe rence between the west and east sides
of Oakville In the east, the warmth of
afte rnoon sunshine on the lower slopes of
the Vaca range can be a th reat to freshnes
s
offru1t (The AVA boundary goes up to t!W
600ft/180m contour line, whereas mueb-:Of
the val ley floor IS below 200ft/6Qm.) $Oft$
here are rather heavier and have more
volcanic influence than in the west.
Scream ing Eagle, which now shares an
owner with Bonneau de Martray of Burgundy
and fe tches near- incredible prices, i$ the
best-known name here. Dalla Valle
counteracts the warmth of 1ts location with
careful canopy management and a h1gher­
than- usual proportion of aromatic Cabernet
Franc. As rn Rutherford, Cabernet Sauv1gnon
dominates but Oakville can also produce
some beautrful Chardonnay and Sauv1gnon
Blanc. This 1s the birthplace of Mondav1's
groundbreaking Fume Blanc.
•I
�
•MAYl
lACl
l
•Madha's
\'lneyan
l
r=
=J
-
50
0
-
�
N
AVA
Notable producer
Noted vineyard
Vineyards
Woods and chapanal
Contour interval 100 fe
et

�� AVA
• SHAPER Notable producer
e � Noted vineyard
Vineyards
Woods and chaparral
Contour interval 100 fe
e
t
Stags Leap
Stags Leap District sits immediately east
of Yo untville, a distinct and distinctive
AVA bounded in the west by a wooded
knoll and nudging up and eastwards into
the hills of the Vaca range. One of the
smallest AVAs in the Napa Valley, 1t enioys a
reputation that suggests something more
imposing or extensive.
Fame came overnight in 1976, when a
debut Cabernet from Warren W1marsk1's
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars came first in a
Paris tasting that still makes news four
decades later. It pitted some of what were
then California's better-known wines
a&ainst some ofthe best of Bordeaux.
Much to everyone's surprise - including
the authors of this book, who were on the
panel ofJudges - the California wines
repeated the performance In a rerun
•xactly 30 years later.
Of all Napa Cabernet1, those of Stags
Leap have arguably the most recognizable
I,
I•
1 6lJ,6A7
character: a silky texture, a certai n aroma of
violets or cherries, tannins that have always
been supple, and power with more del icacy
than is usual in Napa Cabernet.
The district, barely three miles by one,
takes its name from a run of bare rocks, a
basalt pali sade, on the eastern edge of the
val l ey, an afte rnoon suntrap from which
warm air rad iates. The heat 1s moderated
by marine breezes, another afte rnoon
phenomenon, which are fu nnelled through
the Golden Gate, over San Pablo Bay and
turned by the hills behind Berkeley straight
up toward s C h imney Rock and Clos du Val
The knoll above Stag's Leap Wine Cellars
(not to be confused with the diffe rently
punctuated Stags' Leap Winery) protects
some vineyards from this cooling infl uence,
sometimes inconveniently Indeed, the
AVA's rumpled series of hills and ridges
makes ge neralizations even more difficult
than elsewhere in the Napa Val l ey. But the
area 1s warm enough to see the vines start
leafl ng a good two weeks ahead of more
northerly areas, even though the ripening
process is slower, with the result that
•I•
CALIFOANIA
·
NO.. TH AMl.. ICA
311
Fay and SLV vineyards seen fr om above are
crucial elements in the success ofStag's Leap
Wine Cellars, now owned1omtly by Chateau
Ste Michelle of Washmgton state andAntinor1
of Tu scany.
harvest tends to be at about the same
time as, say, Rutherford's
Soils are moderately fe rti le volcanic,
grave l-loams on the val ley floor, with
roc kier, particularly wel l-drained terrain
on the heavily protected hillsides.
Shafer, another one of the district's top
performers, benefits from its highly
regarded hillside vineyard on a steep
am phitheatre that was carved out of
the eastern slopes before extremely
contentious restrictions on the
development of the slopes on both sides
of the valley were put in place. Shafer
wines are particularly potent
Nearby at slightly lower elevation, Cliff
Lede and Robert Sinskey are well-known
Stags Leap producers, too. The d1str1ct
does better with Merlot thao most , but the
area 1s ge nerally too hot for Chardonnay.
I•
T
'
o

316
NORTH AMERICA · CALIFORNIA
South of the Bay
The many wine districts mapped here are
quite different from the Napa and Sonoma
valleys, both In terms of the wines they
produce and their social history.
To the east, the windswept, dry gravels of
the Livermore Valley have been fa mous for
wh ite wine, especially Sauvignon Blanc, with
perhaps the most individual style in the state,
ever since they were planted with cutti ngs
from Chateau d'Yquem in 1869. Many
generations of the creative Wente fa mily
have dominated the more than 5,000 acres
(2,000ha} of vines, which are under constant
threat from urban development The majority
of Chardonnay vines in California can be
traced to the original Wente clone
The grey urban sprawl on the map has
spread rapidly south of the Bay as Silicon
Valley, whose original heart was Santa Clara,
has fl ourished - with a direct impact on
sustaining the demand for Cal ifornia wine.
High above it, the Santa Cruz Mountains
AVA seems incongruous wine country,
although 1t 1s older than Napa. Its isolated
wineries are far fe wer, and vineyards fe wer
still (apart from small plantings in the
gardens of Silicon Valley mllhona1 res}, but
several of them are among California's most
famous names The AVA was the first to be
defined by its topography, from the fog line
up to ridges at 2,600ft (790 m}.
In the 1950s, Martin Ray of Mount Eden was
the first winemaker of the modern era to
bring renown to these beautiful forested
mountai ns - and the first to label a varietal
Chardonnay. His eccentric, expensive wines,
like those of his ex-cellarhand David Bruce,
caused argu ments and amusement in exactly
the opposite proportion to those caused by
their spi ritual successor, Randal l Grah m of
Bonny Doon. Sadly his ocean - cooled vi neyards
JUSt northwest of the "alternative" town of
Santa Cruz succumbed to Pierce's Disease in
1994. Today, Grahm 1s slowly planting a new
site in San Juan Bautista due west of Hollister,
eccentrically growing vines from seeds.
The leading producer i n the Santa Cruz
Mountai ns is Ridge Vineyards; high above the
fog line on a ridge overlooking the ocean one
way, and the Bay (and the San Andreas Fault}
the other Cabernet from the highest patch,
Monte Bello vineyard, 1s one of the world's
very finest and longest- lived reds, thanks to
old vine stock, infe rtile soils on steep slopes,
and the insp1rat1onal conservatism of recently
retired winemaker Pau l Draper. Aged almost
exc lusively in seasoned American oak, with
the bottle-age it demands, 1t can taste like
top-quality Bordeaux. Within sight of Ridge,
but very much more exposed to Pacific
influence, Rhys has led a revival of refi ned,
mountai n -grown Pinot Noir aged in specially
excavated caves .
Monterey County prod uces huge
quantities of wine, mostly from vineyards
on the val ley floor that are a monument to
1970s corporate madness. The then large
companies (several now defunct} and private
investors pursuing tax breaks were
encouraged by UC Davis, preoccupied, if not
obsessed, with its measu re of degree days,
to plant in what promised to be a wonderfully
cool-climate zone. The Sal inas Valley, with its
mouth open to the ocean on Monterey Bay,
forms a highly effi cient fu nnel for a regu lar
afternoon visitation ofcold ocean air. The
valley, with its short history of salad and
vegetable growing and long history of
explo1tat1on (remember Steinbeck?}, was
enthus1ast1cally turned over to vines in a
planting spree that at one stage res ulted in
70,000 acres (28,330 ha} ofvineyard - far
more than Napa Valley's . By 2017, however,
Monterey's vineyards had fal len to around
40,000 acres (16,200 ha}. Unfortunately, the
fu nnel proved al l too efficient. On a hot day
i nland, clammy coastal ai r comes rushing up
the valley wrth such force that 1t actually
tears off vme shoots. The va lley 1s el<tremebt
dry (with irrigat ion water aplenty fro m thlo
underground Salinas River) but fiendishly
cold. Vmes regu larly bud two weeks earlier
than the California norm and are picked at
least two weeks later, g1vmg the Salinas
Valley, along with Santa Maria Valley to the
south (see p.320}, one of the longest growing
seasons m the world of wine.
The excessively herbaceous wines that
initially res ulted after the big companies
moved in, particularly Cabernets, sullied the
name and reputation of Monterey. Even today.
with v1ticultural practices much improved,
much of the Salinas production 1s sold m bulk,
blended with wme from warmer regions and
sold under the basic California appellation.
However, the 15-mile (24-km) strip of the
Santa LuciaHighlands along the east-fac ing
slopes ofSalinas Valley, has emerged as a
grower of ad mirable Chardonnay and Pinot
Noir. Its terraces sit well above the valley floor,
with vines planted on well-drained, relatively
homogeneous gran itic soils. The predictable
daily winds keep the vme canopy well under
control, but ac id levels are so high that some
of the fr uit 1s used for sparkling wme.
Arroyo Seco also has an impressively long
growing season, thanks to its notably low
average daytime temperatures Its western
section is more sheltered from the w i nd.
Riesling and Gewurztram iner from its pebbly
vineyards can be fine dry to off-dry wmes, or
The view fr om outside and Inside the Rhys
wmemakmg operation m the Santa Cruz
Mountains Exc avation has been the answer
for countless producers throughout the state
seeking reliably low temperatures.

The Monte Bello
vmeyard, origin ally
t
planted in 1886, on the
San Andreas Fault, is so
high on a ridge above the
Pacific - up to 2, 700ft
(820m) - that there are
views ofboth the ocean
and SiHcon Valley.
ft
ttgh
wey 1 along the Pacific
oQSt mey not be a direct link
Qtween win eries, but it cannot
.e beaten for views, and
�po$ure to the prin cipal
.Jlmato/ogica/ influence on
allfornla wine.
floRTH CENTRAL COAST
Boy
Note that there l$ a small pp between the
southern limit ofthts map and the northern
Amit of the South Cenitral Cout map on p.320.
San Lucas, San Antonio- Valley, and Hames Valley
are mapped on p.303.
South of the Bay CALIFORNIA • NO.. TH AMl.. ICA
'11
indeed botryt1zed, sti ll
with good acidity.
Chalone Vineyard,
with its own AVA, lies
on a sun- scorched
2,000ft (600m)
limestone hilltop on the
road from Soledad to nowhere
- except the Pinnacles National
Monument Chalone's founder
made Chardonnay and P1not No1r
with the conv1ct1on that
Burgundy's Corton had
somehow migrated west .
Burgundy, or more precisely
limestone, was the
inspiration for Josh
Jensen's Calera,
fo unded m equally
splendid, even
more arid
1solat1on to
grow
Plnot No1r m Mount Harlan (it wu sold to
Duckhorn of Napa Valley in 2018). The soil is
right; the rainfall almost ruinously low. Calera's
estate wines are named by vineyard . It also
buys fr uit from Central Coast growers to the
south. And since Chalone was acquired by the
multinational Diageo 1n 2005 it has leaned
heavily on cheaper fr uit from Monterey
Huge vine fa rms stretch for miles between
the bottom of the map opposite and the top
of the Central Coast one on p.320 The most
notable 1s the vast 3,000·acre (1,200-ha)
San Bernabe Valley property, of which nearly
2,000 acres (800ha) are planted Its owner,
Dehcato Fam ily Vineyards, successfully
lobbied for a San Bernabe AVA . Scheid and
Lockwood are two other monster vineyards
There are vines as far south as hot Hames
Valley near the San Luis Obispo county line
(see p.303). The Mer Sole1I Chardon nay
vineyard of Caymus of Napa Valley is here,
but this 1s mai nly vine-farming, not
winemaking, country
1 710,00
0
�o
w
21
1
��
1-
-
���..
..
..
�--..-
-
..
..
..
���--
-'
--.
Ml
lo
o
0
10
2IJMila
County boundary
uwn AVA
• 00.l!ltA Notable producer
·=.
..
Noted vineyard
c=i Vineyards
Woods and chaparral
·� Contour interval 10
00
feet
c
o
D
T

318
NORTH AMERICA CALIFORNIA
Sierra Fo oth ills, Lodi, and the Delta
.
..
KmO
10
1 925,926
20
30
1-
-
��..
..
.
�..
..
..
..
..
..
��..
..
..
..
..
.
��
Mao.O
D
T
10
20Molo
o
The Central Valley is a vast, flat, extremely
fe rtile, heavily lrrl1ated tract of Industrial
farmland. At its northern end 1s Lod i, cooled
by the Sacramento River Delta. In the
northwest portion of this inland waterway,
Clarksburg manages to produce some good
honeyed Chenin Blanc and Albar11'10.
Lodi hes on higher land, on soils was hed
down from the Sierras, both promising
fac tors Growers, many with a century-old
history, have worked so hard on researc hing
which d1str1ct 1s best suited to which variety
that no fe wer than seven AVAs within Lodi
were approved in 2006. Su rely overkill for
the confused wme buyer Lod i is as hot as
St Helena in Napa Valley in daytime but much
warmer at night. As a result, Lodi Cabernet
1s flavo ur-packed but is not for l o ng keeping
Old-vme Zinfandel 1s the region's strength,
but growers here are trying all sorts of
things, including an array of German,
Austrian, and Portuguese vines.
Bemg coolish, frqmented, and distinctive,
the &Mr
r
a Foothllla AVA 1s prec 11ely the
oppo 1te of the Central Valley. In the fo othills
ofthe Sierra, where the Gold Rus h put
Californi a on the map, the wine lnduatry
that slaked the miners' thirst 1s quietly and
determinedly being revived . This 1s California's
treas ure trove of ancient Zmfandel stumps,
with Larry Turley as a leading proponent
Other newcomers are successfully planting
Rhone varieties. Grapes from El Dorado
Cou nty, opt1m1st1cally named by prospectors
for its most desirable natural resource, share
a streak of natural ac idity; its expandmg
vineyards, at above 2,400ft (730 m),
are among the highest in California Ram, and
even snow, 1s commonplace, and the wines
from the thin soils tend to be re latively
(mercifully, some think) light.
The vineyards of Amador County are at
disti nctly warmer, lower elevations of
1,000-1,600ft: (300· 490 m) on a plateau
where there is little chance of tempering the
heat This Is especially true ofShenandoah
Valley, west of Amador's other AVA,
Flddletown About three-quarters of the
county's vi nes are Zmfandel, some of them
planted pre · Proh1blt1on. Old or yo ung, dry
or rich, almost chewable, Amador Zmfandel
tends to taste as rugged as the miners who
made this region famous. A valid quality, you
may think Syrah al so works well here, as does
AMADOR
OVoko
oo
1 462,963
KmO
20
AO
60
.:llW
i-
-
��.._�.,.
..
.
..
..
..
.
��--..
..
.
�..
..
.
MoleoO
20
County boundary
�
AVA
Jahant
Lodi sub-AVA
•MADllONA
Notable producer
• =Rldi!e Noted vineyard
Vineyards
Woods and chaparral
-20
00-
-
Contour interval 50
0
fe
e
t
LODI: LODI
Weather station (WS)
Area mapped at larger
scale
Latitude / Elevation of WS
38.11° / 39ft (12m)
Average growing eason temperat ure at WS
68.7°F (20.4°C)
Av erage annual rai nfall at WS
19in (483 mm)
Harvesl month rni nfnll at WS
September: 0.3 in (Bmm)
Principal v1l1cu ltural haturdh
Botrytls, powdery mildew
Prin ipal grn p ' var lell<'S
R : Zlnfandel, Cabernet Sauv1 gnon; W· Chardonnay
Sang1ovese and the occasional Sauv1gnon
Blanc. Calaveras County vineyards to the
south have an elevation, and therefore
c l imate, somewhere m between those of El
Dorado and Amador, although 1n some placet
1ta sods are more fe rtile than 1n either Some
of the few growers here are rev1v•ng Californie
history with var1etie& such as Trousseau Noir
and Green Huniarian .

Central Coast
Thi• vut and varied re1lon alon1 more
than 100 mllH (1 80 km) of Paclftc Cout
Include• some of California'• mo•t
fuhlonabl• AVA•, Invariably where coolln1
ocean Influence• are mo•t pronounced.
The map overleaf •how• the far •outh of
the r91lon - for It• full extent, ••• p.303.
Te rrolr The San Andreas Fau lt runs right
through the eastern part of the Central
Coast In San Luis Obispo, western soils
are much varied and less fe rtile than in
the east. Santa Barbara bedroc k 1s marine
sediments with layers of d1atomaceous
earth in the west and limestone and chalk
fu rther inland.
Climate Rainfall is fa irly low throughout
the Central Coast. Inland areas of San Luis
Obispo such as Pa•o RoblH, are relatively
warm Santa Barbara County Is primarily
maritime, with mild winters (vines may not
always get the chance of a restorative
sleep) and summers much cooler than the
California norm.
Grapes San Luis Obispo R: Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot; W: Chardonnay
Santa Barbara W: Chardonnay;
R: Pinot Noir
The northern limit ofthe section ofthe
Central Coast mapped overleaf Is about
20 miles (30 km) south of the southern
limit of the map on p.317, and the march of
the vine south from San Francisco almost
to the l1m1ts of Los Angeles co ntinues
Vineyard s vie with scrub oaks, cattle
CALIFORNIA NO.. TH AMl.. ICA
319
grazing, and fruit and vegetables for land
and, most importantly, water
The entire Ce ntral Cout Is essentially
desert, and the great majority of vineyards,
especially the young ones that predominate,
therefore depend almost entirely on
irrigation, with the exception of some older
plantings of ro bust, dry fa rmed Zmfandel
Things have reached crisis point in some
areas, particularly the most heavily
populated or enthus1ast1cally v1s1ted, and
state controls on water use 1n re sponse to
persistent drought are threatening wine
prod uction 1n some pl aces .
This 1s particularly marked in areas as
warm and dry as Paso RoblH in San Luis
Obispo Cou nty The coastal mou ntains that
The white in the dis tance 1s d1atomaceous
earth, the bright green row crops. The vmes m
this Bentrock vmeyard m Sta. Rita Hiiis belong
to Stan Kronke, owner ofScreammg Eagle and
Bonneau de Martray

•
i"
D
'
!.'
320
NORTH AMERICA · CALIFORNIA Central Coast
NfVADA
Poml
Corn;op<lon
SOUTH CKNTftAL COAST
County boundary
ll
l.l
ll
AVA
l4W!J4Uj
•SAXIJM
Notable producer
•llenllODusl
\'laeimd Noted vineyard
C:=J Vineyards
l=
=:J
Woods and chaparral
'50
0
Contour Interval 50
0
fe
et
[il
l]
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
Weather stahon (WS)
1 725,00
0
�1
�- -..
..
..
_.
1,
._
o
__
1�
_
-
_;,
2:<>K1n
Note that thla I•juet one MCtlon of the Central Cout.
SHthelocatorrnai
i
forItsful
l
extent And '" p.326 fo r
moreonwinec:ountr)
'
south of the area mapped here.
I•
run the fu ll length of California define the
sorts ofwines grown totheu· east . Much of
the vast Paso Robles AVA, with its somewhat
arresting boundaries, is warm to hot, thanks
to a mountai n barrier penetrated by only a
few canyo ns and valleys.
The rolhng grassland east of H1ghway 101
is decidedly hot, with no direct access for
cooling ocean breezes. Its deep, fertile soils
prod uce supple, fr uity, though hardly
demanding varietals, typically mainstream
Cabernet and Chardonnay, much of which
goes to North Coast wineries and contract
bottlers to be blended with much more
expensive northern w i ne. The big companies
Constellation (wh ich includes Mondavi) and
Treasury (which includes Beringer), as well
as the locally based J Lohr, are major players
in the d istrict. Treas ury's Mer1d1an wi nery
stands out fo r its hilltop site, a vantage point
that dominates the vineyard landscape that
now stretches far to the southeast
Since the financial cr1s1s of 2008 wineries
have increasingly followed the Napa Valley
model of selling direct to the consumer
rather than through one ofthe diminishing
number of wine d1stribut1on companies. As a
result, Paso Robles in particular has seen a
mushrooming oftasting roo ms for smaller
wine producers and the region has become
a major tourist destination.
The wooded, hilly terrai n of the section of
Paso Robles west of the highway has much
more interesting soil - in some cases
calcareous - and parts of 1t are usefully
cooled by such ocean air as 1s able to sneak
into the area. The oldest Pinot Noir in the
Central Coast, planted in Adelaida in 1964,
grows in one such area at the fo ot of the
mountai ns. The historic fa me of Paso Robles,
such as 1t is, came originally from potent
Zinfandels, many dry-farmed, following ltallan
immigrant trad1t1on and taste - not unhke
Amador Foothill Zinfandel (see p.318)
More recently, Rh6ne var1et1es have fo und
a home here. This was the area chosen by
the Pe rrin fa mily of Chateau de Beaucastel in
CMteauneuf-du- Pape to plant a wide range
CENTRAL COAST:
SANTA MA RlA
Lalitu<lc Elev ation of WS
34.55' / 253ft (77m)
,\vt•r.igc gro\, 11Jl( ,l n,011 lt•m1w1 ature at \AS
60 7' F (16.0'C)
A\cr,1�1! annu.ll r.11nf,1 It 111 \\ ..
.,
141n (354mm)
Jlun�'t mon th 1 .1111i,11l . 1t \,\:;
Septemb r 0 1In (4mm)
1'1 111up.d \1l1t 11lt u1·al h.1 1.11cl
Lack of wat ,.
,,

of French clones of Rh6ne grapes at Its
Tablas Creek nursery and winery with
considerable success. Ta blas Creek has
beco me the leader of a movement once
known as the Rh6ne Rangers in the US, and
1s the source of most of the best cutti ngs of
Rhone var1et1es in Cahforma, and the sole
grower of some ofthe more obscure ones.
Paso Robles has earned a reputation fo r Its
array of blended reds and blends of Rh6ne-ish
whites (which are val ued more highly than
varietals such as Syrah and Vlogn1er).
During California wine's early years, when
the Mission grape predominated, San Luis
Obispo was regarded as producing the best
wine on the west coast . Vin1fera vines arrived
in the 19th century but the area was then
too isolated for them to succeed The wine
industry took off agai n in the 1970s and Edna
Va lley Vineyard was planted soon afterwards.
Edna Valley, over the Cuesta Pass to the
south, 1s different agai n Sea air swirls in from
Morro Bay, making the val ley as cool as any
Cahforma wine region. It produces some quite
luscious Chard onnays, albeit with a fine streak
of hme to keep them hvely. Alban, one ofthe
Central Coast's most proficient exponents
of red and white Rhone var1et1es, 1s a leader
here, and manages, despite the sea air, to
coax Syrah to ripeness levels unimagi nable in
the Rhone Valley. Water, andthe market for
second homes here, limits new plantings.
Unfortunately, one ofthe two major vineyard
ow ners here sold the Edna Valley Vineyard
brand, which is now used for some wines
made from fr uit grown elsewhere.
To the 1mmed1ate southeast, the more
varied but generally even cooler Arroyo
Grande Valley has made a name for its fine
Pinot No1r and Chardonnay from such
producers as Talley and Laet1t1a.
California's coolest county
Across the county line, Santa Barbara 1s
home to the state's coolest wine regions. The
shape ofthe continental plate means that the
coastal mountai ns run east-west here rather
than the usual north- south In fa ct, the
county 1s the only section ofthe west coast
of either North or South America where the
mountains do not completely border the
edge ofthe conti nent. As a res ult, the county
1s directly exposed to the ocean, its cold
afternoon wi nds, and chilly mght-t1me fog.
1n contrast to Sonoma's Pmot country, for
Instance, Santa Barbara experiences
exceptional
l
y low rainfall (as the key fa cts
panel suggests). This means that there Is
generally no hurry to harvest before autu mn
rams, so Santa Barbara's grapes, like those
grown further north m Monterey and San
Luis Obispo counties, benefitfrom an
extremely long growing season, with flavour
and phenolic ripeness accumulating over
months and m onths.
Central Coast CALIFORNIA • NO.. TH AMl.. ICA
321
County boundary
vNIA
•ll
lJSACX
Notable producer
· = Noted vineyard
Vineyards
Woods and chaparral
150
0
-
Contour interval 50
0
feet
The Bentrock vineyard shown
on p.319 1s north -fac ing and
bears the brunt ofthe cold
marine blasts fr om the Pacific.
It onlyjust ripens its bracing
Chardonnay.
NORTHWEST OF SANTA BARBARA
•
N
(/v
137.ol00
0
KmO
10
20Km
1-�����..
..
..
.
�����--.���
Mole.0
10,.,._
The potential of Sta. Rita Hills was clear in the early 1970s when
the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard produced its first wines, even
though the AVA was created as recently as 2001. And who could
resist the 2009 AVA, Happy Canyon ofSanta Barbara'? This map
will probably have to be extended west for a fu ture edition.
Los Ange es
The two valleys that define the wine-growing
area of Santa Barbara County are quite
different from the stereotype of southern
California - and, indeed, from the bal my,
pal my university town of Santa Barbara
itself. The town hes m the lee of the crucial
mountai ns that run off the southeast corner
of the map shown here, helping to lessen the
cold ocean fogs that invade the Santa Maria
and Santa Ynez·valleys.
In the north of Sant� Barbara County, the
wide Santa Marla Valley boasts the state's
longest growing season, thanks to bemg
completely open to the Pac ific. The persistent
marme infl uence bri ngs a chilly wind every
aft ernoon, and an extended period of fog late
mto most mornings. In cooler vintages, some
Santa Maria vineyard sites can struggle to
ripen Even in warmer vintages wines from
the area tend to hav e acid levels re miniscent
of Burgundy in a cool yea!'.
Most of the thousands of acres of grapes m
Santa Maria Valley are owned by far mers
rather than wmer1es, making vineyard names
unusually prominent Bien Nacido, for one,
crops 1.1p on a range of different winery
labels, while many of the region's wineries
also buy grapes up and down the Central
Coast . Cambria 1s notably warmer than Bien
Nac1do being fu rther from coastal influence
Rancho Sisquoc 1s the most sheltered,
except for the positively secluded Foxen,
which occupies its own canyon. Cambria,
along with nearby Byron, 1s owned by
Jackson Fam ily Wines, while Gallo's extensive
holdings m the Central Coast include
Br1dlewood winery in Santa Ynez Val ley to
the 1mmed1ate south. By far the maior1ty of
Central Coast grapes are shipped north
either as must or wine.
The best of them, Pinot No1r and
Chardonnay m the main but Syrah, too, are
grown on slopes high enough - 600ft-plus
(180 m) - above the val ley floor to be on the
fr inge ofthe fog belt Their naturally high
ac 1d1ty 1s offset by extremely intense fr uit.
•I
D
T
E
T
F
'G

122
They can be 1mpress1vely long-lived. Much
the most exc iting winery m Santa Maria 1s
Au Bon Climat and its partner m the same
modest premises, Lindquist Fam ily. Heavily
infl uenced by Burgundy, Jim Clendenen of
Au Bon Chmat has from 1982 made a wide
range of different styles of Chardonnay and
Pmot No1r, and also Pinot Blanc, Pmot Gris,
V1ogn ier, Barbera, and Nebb1olo under the
Clendenen Fam ily label.
Just south of Santa Maria, m similarly cool,
intensely rural conditions, is the (unofficial)
Los Alamos region, where several thousand
acres of vineyards produce l ively Chardonnay
around the to ur1st-fr 1endly little town.
Cond1t1ons are a bit warmer and more stable
over the Solomon Hills, particularly (as m
Paso Robles) east of Highway 101
In the southern half ofSanta Barbara
County 1s the Santa Ynez Valley, also
fu lly exposed to the ocean, thanks to the
orientation of the mountains . But this valley
11 more ro lling than the flatter, wide · open
Santa Maria Va lley, its vineyard s sprawling
over oak dotted hills around and to the
north of Solvang (a town as peculiarly Dan ish
as 1t1 name) Th11 variation 1n growi ng
cond1t1on1 has led to an Increasing number
of distinct AVAs within Santa Ynez Va lley •
not surprlsln& since eac h eastward mile from
the coast 11 said locally to represent
at least one more degree Fahrenheit In the
am bient temperature On a summer's day
1t can be 70"F (21°C ) In Lompoc and 1oo•F
(38°Cl 1n Los Olivos
The coolest of!'lc lal appellation in the Santa
YnezValley11theSta.ftltaHiilsAVAH'1a
series of hills, some quite steep, 1n the far
west of the Santa Ynez Va lley between
Lompoc and Buellton, where a bend in the
Santa Ynez River marks the end of intense
ocean infl uence Soils 1n the Sta. Rita Hills (so
written in deference to Chilean prod ucer
Santa Rita) are a patc hwork of sand, silt, and
clay Pinot No1r, with Chardonnay as support,
1s the principal grape variety here and can be
pos1t1vely Burgundian The AVA boundaries
were established with Pinot No1r in mind, but
the Babcock Winery showed that the high
ac1d1t1es that are common here suit Sauv1gnon
Blanc, Riesling, and Gewurztram1ner, too
It was the Sanford & Benedict vineyard that
flrst drew attention to the Sta. Rita Hills in
the early 1970s. It lies in a sheltered north
fac ing niche that suits Pinot Noir perfectly.
The Richard Sanford who lent 1t his name,
a screw- cap pioneer, now grows the
Burgu ndian varieties organ ically at Alma
Rosa nearby The eastern Sta. Rita Hiiis are
warm enough to ripen Grenache and Syrah
and the celebrated Sine Qua Non in Ve ntura
County (see map on p.326) produces quite
ro bust Rh6ne-style wines from its estate
vineyards here
Pinot No1r and Chardonnay vines have also
been planted west of the boundaries ofthe
Santa Ynez Val ley and Sta. Rita Hiiis AVAs,
even closer to the ocean . It was fo rmerly
believed this area, whose wines must be
sold simply as Santa aarbara County, was
too cold to ripen grapes, but there Is
considerable local excitement about the
potential for this area It Is known popularly
as the Lompoc Hl&hlands, as It looka
The Lucky Penny 1s a popular fu el/mg station
for tourists on Santa Barbara 's Urban Wme
Tr ail with its many tasting rooms, thanks to the
strict curbs on wme tourism m the coun tryside.
westwards over the city of Lompoc, where a
number of quirky winemakers are based in an
industrial space known as the Wine Ghetto.
Just east of Highway 101 is the Ballard
Canyon AVA, approved in 2013 and
specializing in various Rhone var1et1es. Here
1t ts defi nitely warmer than Sta. Rita Hills,
although nights can be cool In the hottest,
far east of the Santa Ynez Val ley AVA Is the
memorably named Happy Canyon of Santa
Barbara AVA, warm enough to grow
Bordeaux var1et1es
Between the two sits the newest AVA In the
region, the Los Ollvos District, approved In
201 6. It grows a mix of both Rhone and
Bordeaux grapes and has produced some
flne Sauv1gnon Bl anc. Los Olivos takes its
name from the small town 1n the middle -
In whose cafe Sideways anti hero Miies
fa mously declared his hatred of Merlot Many
of the county's tastln1 rooms can be fo und
here, and In an old industrial ne11hbourhood
of downtown Santa Barbara now known u
the Fu nk Zone. Santa Barbara tasting rooms
are often fa r from their owners' vineyards
as there are strict controls here on the
development ofwine tourism

Virgi nia
..tween the Appalachians and Cheupeake
ltay, lta whlt..
.
fenced trasalanda In the
JM of the Blue fUdp Mountains devoted
to blue•blooded horHa and dotted with
fit"•�Clvll War settlements, the sleepy
�thern •tat• of Virginia seems fa r away
rr-om
tht politics of Washington DC. Yet its
� h ernmost vineyards are a mere hour's
rd'l"ive fro m Capitol Hill, and Virginia's almost
lO
O
wineries rival battlefields and colonial
il!l,ndmarks a.s tou rist destinations.
Wine had an unpromising start here, as
!t:homas Jefferson found to his cost at
onticello Wine was a crusading issue for
: he wrote that "wine... 1s m truth the only
tidote to the bane of whiskey". America
�ded a wine industry. But no one knew
f:htn that European vines need American
otstocks to protect them from the
l('Eldati-Ons of phylloxera. Nor is Virginia's
�Qllmate ideal . Even today, the state's vm1fera
l\ftnes, which constitute about 80% ofthe
total, have to battle the vagaries ofthe
continental climate : a relatively short
growing season and a hot, humid, o�en
stormy summer, with few cool nights before
Septem ber Winters can be so cold that the
soils take their time to warm up, and buds
are rarely seen before late April, even in this
era of climate change.
Most of Virginia's 3,000 acres (1,200 ha) or
so of vineyards are in a belt about 30 miles
(50 km) east ofthe Blue Ridge Mountains,
although the much less accessible
Shenandoah Valley AVA on the west side
ofthe mountains 1s also attract ing interest.
V1rginra produces only a tiny proportion
ofall the wine drunk 1n the state, but the
number of prod ucers genuinely driven by
a desire to make fine wine 1s growing fast
Vineyards, such as RdV's, ad vised by
VIRGINIA: CHARI�OTTESVI LLE
La titude / Elevation of WS
38.13° / 623ft (190m)
Average growi ng sea on temperature at WS
66.1 °F (18.9°CJ
Average annual rai nfall at WS
42.7in (1,0B5mm)
Harvest month rainfall at W.
September: 4.Sin (114mm)
Pr111cipal viticulluraJ hazard>
High summer rainfall
Prm ipal grape vnri etie
R: Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot,
Cabernet Sauvignon; W : Chardonnay,
Viognier, Petit Manseng
Eric 801ssenot ofthe Medoc, are
mcreuinlfy being sited on higher slopes
with rocky so ils that dram usefully fa st
after summer downpours
Virginia's •l•nature srape
Barboursville, owned by Zonm of Italy, put
down roots as long ago as the late 1970s.
As one might expect, it has persevered
(successfully) with such grape varieties as
Nebb1olo and Vermentmo as wel l as the more
usual range of var1et1es grown m Virginia
Its sweet Malvax1a Paxxito 1s a true original
Cabernet Franc has shown the most afflnity
fo r the vineyards of northern and central
Virginia - generally blended with various
proportions ofother Bordeaux grapes.
Less pred ictably, and led by Horton
Vineyards m the 1980s, V1rgm1a's growers
decided that V1ogn1er would be their
signature grape, m part because its thick
skins and loose bunches withstand humid
summers better than most var1et1es.
Petit Verdot and Petit Manseng are more
recent V1rgm1a spec1aht1es, the latter with
particular success. But Horton also
pioneered the all-American Norton grape
that can make seriously appealing fr uity
red wine with no hmt of the foxiness that
puts so many noses off other American
N09'TH AMl9'1CA
ata
grapes. The Norton torch 1s now carried
with particular enthusiasm by Jennifer
McCloud at Chrysalis
Virginia has seven AVAs, three ofwhich, 1n
northern and central Virginia, are mapped
here. Both Donald Trump and Jean and Steve
Case of AOL ac quired wmer1ea In central
Virginia m 2011; the Cases' Early Mountai n
Vineyards is exemplary.
Notable wineries outside the area mapped
here include the substantial Chateau
Morrisette 1n the Rocky Knob AVA of the
Blue Ridge region, which was established m
the 1980s; Chatham, a 17th · century fa rm on
a spit of land between Chesapeake Bay and
the Atlantic; Rosemont m the warm far
south of the state; and
Ankida Ridge, which
manages to prod uce
delicate, perfumed
Pmot No1r from a
slope at 1,800ft
(550 m)
MONTICEL
LO
•QIJIYSAL
IS
-..l!1Q9.-
�
11163,00
0
State boundary
County boundary
AVA
Notable producer
Woods
Contour interval 10
00
feet
Weather sl
ll
bon<WSJ
KmO
10
20Km
Molot0
5
10Milot
,,
•
r
E
r
•
"G

•
i"
•
t
c
o
D
T
324
NORTH AMERICA
New Yo rk
New Yorkers are just beginning to discover
their local wines, although the state of New
York Is America's fo urth most Important
wine producer. Vlnlfera varieties are still
in a minority, but there are fine wines
here, and more on the W8Y.
Terrolr Glacial deposits underground,
but very different conditions above ground
between upstate wine regions and
Long Island.
Climate The Finger Lakes are extremely
continental, with fierce wint-ers mitigated
to a certai n extent by the lake effect, while
Long Island is temperate and maritime,
not unlike Bordeaux.
Grapes R: Concord, Cabernet Franc;
W: Riesling, Chardonnay
Thanks to the savagely cold winters of
upstate New Yo rk, the typical vine here has
been a hardy labrusca, such as Concord,
prod ucing grapes for juice and jelly - the
raison d'etre of the important "grape belt"
along the south shore of Lake Erle Climate
change has provided growers with the
confidence to try out some European
vin1fera plantings, but most of the grapes
grown in the belt so far have been the sort
of French American hybrids described on
p.289. Only about 20 of the state's more
than 450 wineries are found here.
Like Ontario across the border, the rest
of New York State rs busy rei nventing itself
as a serious wine prod';Jcer, and al most al l of
the state's new plantings are of v1nrfe ra. The
majority of New York wineries are relatively
yo ung, al l of them small but ambitious
operations, sprouting most noticeably in the
Finger Lakes (over 100 wineries), Long Island
(more than 80), and the Hudson River
Region (more than 50)
Long Island, a1r-cond1t1oned and
occasionally battered by the Atlantic, 1s
New York's exception. With the temperate
mar1t1me cirmate meaning there 1s no danger
of winter freeze, Its nascent wine industry
has always been based on vinifera (mainly
Chardonnay, Merlot, and the Cabern ets).
The few sparkling wines are worth watching.
The ocean influence blurs the seasons and
maintai ns the mild weather for so long that
the growing season here 1s much longer than
inland The we ll-drained glacial soils have
encou raged wel l-balanced vines and slow,
steady ripening. There are three AVAs: the
origi nal, most obviously agricultural, and
quant1tat1vely most s1gnrficant North Fork;
•rm
North Fork ol Long Island AVA
The Hamptons, Long Island AVA
Notable producer
�b
_/?"'
S0"
GJ.Pfu
m
•
•
Is
l
and
Block
Island
Sound
LONG ISLAND
1.616,475
KmO
10
Mlo
o
O
The map ahowa clearly how much more
Important th• North Fork la for viticulture and
winemakin1 Land ia much cheaper on the North
Fork no modiah Hampton• here and It I• al•o
more ahaltered from Atlantic batterln&•
I•
JOKm
IOIAl
lo
o
Channing Daughters Is one
of very fe w wineries on the
South Fork, the most
popular, and extremely
expensive, plczygro und fo r
well-heeled Manhattanltes.
•1•
the cooler (and smaller) Hamptons or South
Fork; and the overarching Long Island
The lake effect
By contrast, vines have been grown
commercially in upper New York State
around the Finger Lakes - deep glacial
trenches carved by glaciers retreating from
the great inland sea of Lake Ontario - since
the 1850s. Indeed, the bucolic landscape,
with its heavily wooded, low hills and
boat-studded lakes, still looks remarkably
lrke the V1ctor1an playgro und rt became once
the colonizers managed to wrest this pretty
region from the native I roquois.
The lakes of Ontario and particularly the
"fingers" of Seneca (the deepest, at
618ft/188m), Cayuga, and Keuka are crucial
in moderating the climate, softening the
sometimes fatal harshness of winter and
storing the summer warmth. Butthe climate
here 1s still extreme. In many parts ofthe
region fe wer than 200 days are frost-free.
Winters are long, with temperatures down to
- 4°F (-20°C). As recently as the 2015 vintage
many growers lost up to 50% oftheir
potential crop to winter freeze. Such harsh
winters meant that American vines were the
obvious choice initially, and even today vintfera
varieties represent only about 22% of
plantings. French hybrids such as Seyval Blanc
and Vignoles were introduced in the late 1940s
and, hke the American labrusca var1et1es,
produced sweet, rather bland wines armed at
tourists. Increasing efforts are being made to
produce mainstream, often dry wines from
these hybrids. But the fu ture of the region
surely lies with European vinrfera vines.
It was as long ago as 1957 that Dr Konstantin
Fran k, a v1t1cultur1st from Ukraine and no
stranger to cold winters, proved that
relatively early- ripening vinrfera vines such as
Rreslrng and Chardonnay could thrive in the
Finger Lakes, provided they were grafted
onto the right rootstocks, burred every
autumn, and often trai ned into multiple thin
trunks since thicker ones are more likely to
explode on freezing. Today, the Finger Lakes
are slowly carving out a reputation fo r
particularly flne, al most Saar· like dry,
ageworthy Rieslings made by established
producers such as Red Newt, Standing Stone,
Herman n J Wiemer, and Dr Konstantin Frank.
More recently they have been jOmed by
producers with experience elsewhere, such u
Heart & Handa and Ravines, and have been
paid the compliment of outside investment,
such as that of Lo urs Barruol or G1gondas with
the Forge Cellars project and Californian Paul
Hobbs' Hlllick & Hobbs joint venture with
Johannes Sel bach of the Mosel.
Riesling, which has relatively hard wood, can
withstand low temperatures well and has
proved a better fit than Chardonnay Some
red wines are produced, with Cabernet Franc.
••

THI: ,INQIR LAKIS AVA
Th• Cayuga Lak• AVA la the reclon'a old9St
sub AVA, havin1 been established in 1988.
SenKa Lake wa1 awarded itl AVA in 2003.
Th1s 11 prime vacation and tourinc country,
10 many wineries have depended on
cellar- door 1ales of 1weeti1h win•• based
on the productive hybrid• and American
vines that still proliferate.
County boundary
It AVA
Hl
lD
NEWT Notable producer
Vineyards
l 1,00
0
,00
0
looking the best bet so far. The research
station at Geneva, the "fi ngertip" of Seneca
Lake, 1s known internationally for its work on
vine-trai ning and winter- hardy varieties, and
the Finger Lakes remain the commercial hub
ofthe New York industry, partly due to the
presence, fr om 1945, ofthe headquarters of
the behemoth Constellation Brands.
The Hudson River Region, where New
York's first recorded commercial vintage
took place in 1839 at what is now the
Brotherhood Winery, 1s another area of small
wmer1es. Vinifera vines are vulnerable here in
a climate moderated only by the Hudson
River, and until recently most ofthe vines
were French hybrids. Operations such as
Millbrook, however, have demonstrated that
Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and even
Fr1ulano can thrive in this pretty upstate
regio n, too, while Clinton Vineyards has
proved that diversification into other fr uit
wines can also pay.
North of here is the extensive 201 6 AVA
Ohamplain Valley of New Yo rk, where
the cold-hardy varieties developed at the
Umvers1ty ofMinnesota (see p.289)
predominate, as they do in the Upper
Hudson, which gai ned its own AVA in 201 8.
loewine made from the French hybrid Vidal
is the most characteristic, and garlanded,
produce of the eight wi neries based in the
Niagara Escarpment AVA, just over the
border from Ontario's principal wine region
(see p.293).
,,
21•
Ffft
0
100
200
300
400
600
600
700
"
"'
•
�
"
"
_J
�
"'
"'
.,
.,
.,
•
:l
_J
..J
..J
_J
�
"'
"'
2l"
:l
u
�'tl
"'
0
-g
c
.,
E
"
..
c
c
c
c
0
.,
..
0
•
(.)
J:
(.)
J:
(.)
301't
(9m)
661't
(20ml
911't
951't
(28ml (29m)
(84m)
FINGIR LAKES DEPTHS
The deepest lakes retain the
most warmth and offer the most
effective protection agalnst
winter freeze.
,,.
"
"'
•
_J
.,
"'
:l
"
lr:
:
•I•
NEW YORK • NO..TH AMUUCA
n1
.rv
t
�..
.
Wolcott
r
10• JJ
__,
�Coto
,,
"
"'
•
"
_J
"
.,
"'
"'
.,
"'
"'
•
.,
"'
.,
•
..J
..J
..J
Gi
•
..
..
0
t;
;
..J
u
'°
u
"
0
.,
:l
�iu
c
�
"'
.,
"'
;:;
Metres (m)
en
(.)
0
en
0
0
20
761't
(23 m)
40
60
80
100
(96m)
120
(133ml
140
160
180
6181't
(188m)
200
•I•
D
T
E
r
'
'G

•
..
.
8
"
c
o
D
T
326
NORTH AMERICA
Southwest
States
Since 1650, and more
than 100 years before
the Mission grape
reached California, its juice
was being fe rmented by
BokersHeld
0
Spanish fr iars in Arizona, New
Mexico, and near El Paso in Texas .
Texas has a special place in the
history ofthe vine, 1f not ofwine. It 1s
the botanical heart ofAmerica - and
can boast more indigenous grapevine
species than any other region on
earth. Of the 65-70 species of the
genus Vttis scattered around the
wo rld, no fe wer than 15 are Texas
natives - a fa ct that was turned to
important use during the phylloxera
ep1dem1c. Thomas V Munson of Denison,
Texas, made hundreds of hybrids between
V1t1s vm1fera and indigenous vines in his
eventually successfu l search for immune
rootstock. It was a Texan who saved not only
France's but the whole world's wine industry
That of Texas itself was almost killed by
Proh1b1t1on In the early 1970s, a new start
was made with experimental plantings of
vin1fera and hybrid vines in the High Plains
region at nearly 4,000ft (1 ,200 m) near
Lubbock, at what would become Llano
Estacado and Pheasant Ridge wineries. They
chose we ll Despite the extreme exposure of
this flat region, its soil 1s deep, calcareous,
and fe rt ile, its sunshine brilliant, its nights
cool (and its winters very cold) Constant
wind keeps disease at bay and at night helps
cool the vi nes, which have to combat frost,
hail, and high temperatures. The Ogal lala
Aquifer, once so useful for drip 1rr1gat1on,
has been drying up, so growers are having to
fa rm much more JUd1c1ously Tec hniques and
the bright-fr uited wines can be remarkably
similar to Was hington state, although
Med iterranean varieties such as Roussanne,
Cinsault, and Te mpranillo are increasingly
fa vou red in Texas.
As much as 80% of all Texas wine grapes
are grown in the High Plains, but about
three-quarters of them are shipped to one
ofthe 50 or so wineries In the Hill Country
of Central Texas , west of Austin. The vast
Texas Hill Country AVA 1s the second most
exte nsive In the US, and includes both the
Fredericksburg and Bell Mountain AVAs
w1th1n It The total area of these three AVAs
1s 9 m1ll1on ac res (3.6 million ha), but a mere
800 acres (324ha) are planted with vi nes.
Humidity and Pierce's Disease plague many
Texu vineyards, but new wineries continue to
{�
1
IC1IWl
llON
VINl!YAI
D
zll
lJl
ll
Ml
lMOILIL
VINl!YAI
D
3�VINl!YAI
D
4&l
ll
l
ll
llOIDNl
ll
l
5SAl
l:l
lWM
Cl
lUAl
lSl
llO
Dl
lG.\
Pl1l
llC!
1 15,60
0
.0
00
fqoI?l}O¥!'(/O51/0
Km
100
20
0
JOo
Ml
lo
o
lntemal
lO
nal boundary
State boundary
SONOITA /!NA
• OJAI Notable producer
'303'
Areamap
ped
atlarger
�
scaleonpageshown
';?!""
MEX
c0
����
�
�
open apace. There are around 400, many near
c1t1es and trucking 1n grapes grown far away.
Some interesting producers, such as Brennan
(for Viognier) and Haak (for a Texan take on
madeira), are located outside any AVA.
It is the Rockies that allow New Mexico
(and Arizona and Colorado) even to think of
growing wine: elevation cools the chmate to
the poi nt where, 1n the north of the state,
only French hybrid vines will survive. The Rio
Grande Valley provides almost the only
agricultural land, fal hng fr om over 7,000ft
(2,000 m) at Santa Fe to 4,500ft (1,300 m)
at Truth or Consequences Insofar as New
Mexico has any national reputation for wine,
1t 1s surprisingly (but quite iust1fiably) for the
fine sparkling wine made by the Gruet Winery.
Southeast Arizona, with its two AVAs,
Sono1ta and Willcox, where vines grow at
around 5,000ft (1,520 m), shares much of
the character of southern New Mexico. The
old-timer Callaghan winery in Sonoita started
out with red Bordeaux var1et1es but, hke most
Arizona growers, they have found Spanish and
RhOne varieties and Malvas1a more suitable.
The same 1s true of Willcox, where the most
promising producers include Sand-Reckoner,
and Saec ulum Cellars. A wine industry 1s also
fast developing in the Verde Valley of central
Arizona north of Phoenix, near the charming
town ofJerome. Here vineyards are rather
lower, between 3,500ft (1,070 m) and 5,000ft
(1,520 m) Caduceus and Merkin Vineyards
have been the most promising names here so
far. Arizona now has more than 100 wineries.
The first vine cutt ings were brought to
Colorado in the 19th century by miners
working 1n the south of the state. The vine
slowly travelled north, with the first known
vineyard of any size in the Pali sades area
near Grand Junction. As elsewhere in the
southwest, phylloxera put paid to serious
3 WlLUMIOlRI>Vl\Et
4 SPICl:.TOOD \1\l.1.ARD
)
sKI.
.
1U.
.
\tAJ.\'Cl
llARS
6 Ol'CHIM.
.
� FA.\tl
ll
wine production - until the 1960s when
Warren Winiarski, who went on to found
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, helped establish the
lvanc1e Winery. Although 1t lasted only until
1974, it inspired today's Colorado producers
who now number about 150. Vineyards range
from around 4,000ft (1,220 m) in the Grand
Valley AVA along the Colorado River to
7,000ft (2,130m) in the West Elks AVA along
the North Fork of the Gunnison River V1nifera
predominates, notably Riesling, Cabernet
Sauv1gnon, and Syrah, but fierce winters have
encouraged some plant1ng of hybr1ds, too.
Meanwhile, in southern California the vine
has also been under threat from Pierce's
Disease, although most re ma1mng growers
have upgraded clones and vineyard design
to combat 1t. Notable prod ucers in Ventura
County such as Oia1 and Sine Qua Non source
most of their grapes from Santa Barbara
County, a short drive north. The most
sigmficant AVA, Te mecula Val ley, rises in
bumps and hillocks to elevations ofup to
1,500ft (450 m) a m ere 20- odd miles (32km)
from the ocean, and linked to 1t by the
vital corridor known as Rai n bow Gap.
Every afternoon, ocean breezes cool this
essentially subtropical area to temperaturea
no hotter than the u pper Napa Val ley. The
cool mghts help, too. Many a winery here 1s
basically aimed at tourists fro m Los Angales.
In the far south, Ve sper Vineyards has been
helping to resuscitate some ofthe older
vineyards In the valleys just north of San
Diego, as well as planting newer sites with
varieties such as Mourvedre, Syrah,
Roussan ne, and Grenache Blanc that seem
well suited to the desert cond1t1ons

Mexico
Mexico has th• oldest wine Industry
out•ld• Europe, fo unded In the 1530•
when the Spanish conquistador Hern•n
Cort•• decreed that all fa rmers plant
10 vapevln•• a year for every lndlan
slav• on their estate. Its modern wine era,
though, has only just started . In 1595, to
protect the Spanish wine industry, the king
ofSpain ban ned new vrneyards and ordered
wldescale uprooting of Mexican vrnes, thus
setting back the development ofa wrne
culture tn Mexico for three centuries.
The first vines were planted tn what 1s today
the state of Puebla, but 1t proved too wet
fo r long-term viticulture, hke many of the
higher-altitude sites assayed later. In Parras
Valley 1n Coahuila state in north -central
Mexico, however, there were indigenous
vrnes in abundance, and here Casa Madero
(once San Lorenzo), built as a Jesuit mission
before 1597, can claim to be the oldest
wrnery of the Americas. Today, 1t makes
thoroughly modern Bordeaux- and Rhone­
like reds and fresh white wines. But 1t is an
exception Less than 20% of Mexico's 83,300
acres (33,700 ha) of vrnes are dedicated
to table wine1 the great majority produces
table grapes, ra1srns, and some brandy.
Baja California 1s responsible for 85% of
all Mexican wrne, produced by 57 wi neries .
Although the first modern winery tn Baja
Cal ifornia was Santo To mas, established rn
1888, the pioneer ofmodern Mexican table
wine, and by far the dominant producer today,
is LA Getto Fo unded by immigrants from
Trentrno, Italy, tn 1928, LA Cetto now owns a
total of 3,460 acres (1,400ha) of vines in the
Guadalupe Valley, San Antonio de las Mrnas,
and the San Vicente Valley, and 200 acres
(80ha) of dry-farmed Ztnfandel in Tecate, j ust
south of the US border. LA Cetto's Nebb1olo
1s widely exported - longstanding oenolog1st
Camrlo Magoni played a major part in
encouraging Italian var1et1es in Baja California
and now has his own winery, Casa Magoni.
In the Ensenada Valleys, the Guadalupe
Valley, just 60 miles (1 00km) south ofthe
border town of Tijuana, has the greatest
concentration of Mexico's new wave of
ambitious vintners - and restaurants,
boutique hotels, and wine museums aimed
at the many tourists. Water is in very short
supply, so the wines from the valley's generally
well-estabhshed vines, rarely troubled by
pests and diseases, are remarkably rntense.
Baja's vineyards are regu larly cooled at
night by Pacific fog and breezes blowing
through the state's southwest- northeast
valleys, Ojos Negros, Santo Tomas, and
San Vicente, gorng south from Guadalupe
Relatively sandy soils help to keep phylloxera
II
,,
at bay on the val ley floors, where low-vigour
varieties such as Cabernet Sauv11non thrive
An important new direction wu taken in
1987, when Monte Xamc was fo unded
exclusively to produce premium wi nes. Its
success was to rnapire many a grape-grower
to start producrng their own wrne. Many of
Baja's newer producers were encouraged
and trarned by Montpellier-educated
Mexican agronomist Hugo D'Acosta, who
established La Escuehta in Porvenir tn 2004,
a small-lot educational winery built of artfully
assembled upcycled material s . He also
oversaw the design and construction of
Paralelo, Mexico's first gravity-fed wrnery.
In the old, brandy-domrnated days, the
Spamsh company Domecq invested heavily in
Mexi co. Today, rnterest has come from such
foreign wrne producers as Henri Lurton of
ChA.teau Brane-Cantenac, and Gonzalez
Byass, which has taken over the old Domecq
bodega in Guad alupe. The industry 1s
begrnning to embrace such international
trends as an rncreas1ngly broad range of grape
varieties, b1odynamic viticulture, less oak, and
natural wrnes. Baja California's emphatic wi nes
longtasted rather salty to outsiders,
probably because of the low rainfal l,
relatively saline sods, and deliberate
stressrng of the vines. Growers
have recently become more
sophisticated by watering
little and often right up to
harvest, and saltrness
seems to be rn
retreat .
W1ne 1s also
produced 1n
NOtltTH AMllUCA
H1
Chihuahua, the northeastern state acrou
the border fr om Texas, and the states of
A1uucallentn (at up to 6,560ft/2,000 m
elevation), dynamic and sometimes rarny
Guan�uato, QueNt&ro (famous for sparkling
wines), San Luis Potosf, and Zac:atecas
I 225,00
0
�o
��
������__
_.
���--.
.
��..
..
.
Mol.O
The owner of
this plot would
like to develop it
commerciaHy, a
sign ofjust how
valuable land
here has become
• PAIWJ!LO Notable producer
El Porverur
Wtne centre
Vineyards
50
0
Contour interval
100 metres
GUADALUPE VA LLEY
The narrowness ofthe valley's
opemng to the ocean, chilled
by the Humboldt Current, 1s
important because it helps to
fu nnel the cold air uphill every
af'te rnoon. Most vines are
planted on the valley floor at
660-1 ,650f't (200-500 m)
althoulh some producers
are experimenting with
higher plantings
D
T
E
T
F
G"

The sl/v rp aks oflho C rro Platain
tho High And � turn ro•y pink a t/1e un
r1 es over vineyards noar Tup ungato ,
in Argen tina 's Mendoza ro<)lon

•
I
•
c
330
South America
Grande in Santa Cruz province show
promis e. And the canyon of Cmt1, north
of Tarija, has the most extraordi nary 100-
to 200-year-old vin es growi ng up trees,
including pepper trees, as they did in the
conquistadors' time. For now, there only
about 8,650 ac res (3,500ha) ofvines are
dedicated to (mainly red) wine production.
Tan nat does well.
South America was growing vines and
making wine long before missionaries took
them north to California. The continent's
settlers came In the main from countries
with strong wine cultures - Spain,
Portugal, and Italy - to lands where the
vine is a perfect fit.
They imported some first-class vine
var1et1es, made large quant1t1es of wme,
and even exported some to make up the
shortfall when phylloxera shrank European
wine prod uction in the 19th century.
Despite this history, for much of the
20th century quality was rarely up to
international standards - until the 1980s,
when modern wmemakmg techniques
such as sensible yields, cellar hygiene,
temperat ure control, and small oak
barrels, were introduced.
In the modern era, Argentina makes the
most wine, although Chile was the first to
ex port significant quant1t1es and 1s now
firmly setting its cap at Ch ina Uruguay
and, increasingly, Brazil have their own
specialities.
Peru and Bolivia
The Spanish conquistadors brought the
vine to Peru in the 16th century, and at one
time there were as many as 100,000 acres
(40,000ha) of vineyards, supplying the rest
of South America and even shipping wine
bac k to Spam, until a protectionist
proh1b1tion on this transatlantic trade.
Peru's vineyard s were then switched to
supplying the grape sp1r1t now known as
pisco. Phylloxera arrived m 1888 and
virtually wiped them out.
Today, there are about 27,000 ac res
(11,000 ha) of vmes m Pe ru, mainly in the
provinces of Lima, lea, and Tac na, and the
region of Moquegua, with lea benefiting
most from cool nights, thanks to the
influence of the Humboldt Current (see
p 336) and not too much rai nfall. Some
believe that there 1s greater pote ntial at
higher altitudes m the val leys close to
Areq uipa, where the vines today, like so
many m Pe ru, are currently grown for p1sco .
Tacama, with a pleasant sparkling wine, and
Santiago Que1rolo, with its lnt1palka brand,
both fa mily- owned, are the most prominent
wine companies.
Bolivia has also been 1rowmg grapes
since the 16th century, mainly Muscat of
Alexandria for singani, 1ts own answer
to p1sco, and for eating But recently,
international wine var1et1es h ave been
introd uced to some of the world's h11heat
vineyard s (up to 10,500ft/3,200 m in
Cotaga1ta) Summer rai nstorms are a
••
problem Wine production is concentrated
m Ta r1Ja, high m the Andes In the south of
the country, at elevations of between
(5, 250- 8 , 200ft/1 ,600-2 ,500 m), but the
slightly lower val leys of.Sama1 pata and Val le
PA CIFIC
OCEAN
lntern1bonal boundary
llBND01A 'Nine reglon
- W1ne-produc1ng arus
Land above 20
00
metres
D![] ArN mapped at laraer
�leonPil&eshown
.'
ICM
ii-
----
;
_
,.
ICM
M..
.
O
11
1
-
SOUTH AMERICA'S WINE REGlONS
Ar1entlna makH far more wine than any other South
American country, but Chile Is catc:hln1 up fa st, and
there are now serious wine industries in Uru1uay,
Brazil, Peru, and BoUvla.

Brazil
For many years, Brazilian wine was grown in
the wrong places, where rainfall was too
high, on fe rtile soils that were slow to drain.
No wonder Isabel, a hardy American variety,
was so popular with the smallholders who
grew most of the vines. Today, wine
production, producers, and consumers,
are becoming more sophisticated.
Traditionally, vine-growi ng was m the hands
of thousands of small-scale far mers, mainly
m the humid and mountainous Serra Gaucha
region m the southern state of Rio Grande
do Sul, which has an average total rainfall of
almost 69 m (1,750 mm) throughout the year.
Isabel (known as Isabella elsewhere). was the
common choice, for its resistance to rot and
mildew, and still comprises over 80% of all
Brazil's grapevines Yields here are too high
for exportable qual ity, and the grapes
struggle to ripen fu lly Light, sweetish,
Italianate, often fizzy reds were the norm.
The greatest spur to produce better
quality came m the early 1990s, when Brazil
opened its market to imported wines. It was
immediately obvious, even to less discerning
consumers, that many, though not all, the
imports were of higher quality and better
val ue. Producers have since been investing
in new vineyard areas and wineries and
have brought in fo reign experts. And an
increasing proportion ofIsabel 1s now
turned into grape juice.
Four areas in Rro Grande do Sul produce
wine: Campos de Cima da Serra, Serra
Gaucha, Serra do Sudeste, and Campan ha
(also known as Fro ntelra) on the border with
Uruguay The firsttwo are responsible for
about 85% ofthe Braz1llan wine production
The Vale dos Vlnltedos - "vi neyard valley" -
subregion of Serra G&Ucha was the first to be
rewarded with its own DO (Oenomina�io de
Or1gem) for Merlot and Chardonnay. They
>12
usually ripen early enough to be harvested
before the rai ns arrive at the end of March.
Other subregions (see map) have since been
officially recognized as IPs (lnd icafioes de
Procedenc1a) Pi nto Bande1ra can produce
some more than acceptable trad1t1onal­
method sparkling wines, as Cave Ge1sse has
proved, leading to a proposed new DO fo r
higher parts of the subregion Farrou p1lha 1s
making some pretty respectable grapey fizz
from local Moscatel m the image of Italy's Asti.
Moving south
The most promising new wine region 1s
probably Campanha, where the country's
most important producers, such as the
M1olo Wine Group, Casa Valduga, and Salton,
have been branchmg out from their bases m
SERRA GAUCHA
This is the first Brazlllan wine re1ion to
delineate off'lcial subre1lona, a step on the
path to Identifying and enc:ouraafng the best
combinations of site, varlsty, and wine style.
I•
aoUTH AMUllCA
U1
Th is wmery m th• we/I-named Va,. clot
Vinhedos belong• to Mlolo, one ofth• country'•
leading producers. Clout/I are never far away
in Serra Gaucha.
Serra Gau cha. The much drier climate,
longer days, and less fe rtile granite and
limestone soi ls provide a more natural
setting for wine production. Some decent
red wine can be made here, although wh ites,
particularly classic sparkling, will probably be
even more successful Particular atte ntion 1s
now being paid to matching vine variety and
soil type. The usual international varieties
have proliferated, but some Portuguese
grapes are also showing fo rm.
The cool, high plateau of Pianalto
Catarmense m the state of Santa Catarina,
1mmed 1ately north of R10 Grande do Sul, hes
as high as 2,950-4,600ft (900-1 ,400 m)
above sea level Its basalt-based soi ls seem
we ll suited to Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir,
Montepuiciano, and Sangiovese. Some wine
1s also produced just north of Santa
Catarina, and m the hinterland of Sao Pau lo,
notably by Guas par1
The most remarkable of Brazil's newer
wme regi ons, however, is less than 10
degrees south of the equator m the hot, dry
Val e do Sao Francisco m the northeast (see
locator map opposite). It needs 1rr1gation
from the river and the fu ll battery of tropical
viticulture techniques, but produces at least
two harvests a year, delivering plentiful,
low-priced, 1f not exactly subtle, Cabernet,
Shiraz, and Moscatel.
�
•Is
I
I
Serra Gaucha wme region
Altos Montes IP/PGI
Pmto Bande1ra IP/PGI
Farroup1lha IP/PGI
Monte Belo IP/PGI
Vale dos V1nhedos DO/POO
Notable producer
Vineyards
•Oo Contour mterval 20
0
metres
I 1.011,00
0
10
ip
30
1'KM
10
lOMlo
o
,,,
•
i
E
'
'
o

•
I
332
SOUTH AMERICA
Uruguay
Unlike Brazilians, the people of Uruguay
are South America's most dedicated wine
drinkers, making the country's Atlantic­
influencad wine industry the fo urth
largest on the continent.
The modern era began m 1870 with Basque
1mm1gration and the import of superior
European grape varieties such as Tannat,
here called Harr1ague after its original
promulgator (The exact chronology and
route ofTannat's path m South America 1s
disp uted.) In a direct paral lel to Malbec's
apparent transformation under the sunny
skies of Argentina, the Tannat prod uced in
Uruguay 1s much plumper and more velvety
than m its homeland m southwest France
and can often be drunk when only a year or
two old - most unlike the prototype Mad1ran
Not that Uruguay's climate and topography
have much in common with those of
Argentina's wme regions It 1s sunny but
much wetter (making organ ic viticulture
difficult). In fac t, both average temperat ures
and annual rainfall (35.4 -49.2m/900 -
1,250 mm) are more comparable to those of
relatively humid Bordeaux Nights m the
southern, most important wine d1str1cts of
Uruguay are cooled by the infl uence, not of
altitude - 1t 1s not a mountai nous country -
but by Antarctic currents m the south
Atlantic. Evenings are often breezy and cool,
ripening slow and grad ual. Except m years
when the autumn rams arrive early, ac 1d1ty
SOUTHERN URUGUAY
Most of Uruguay' wine regions hug the coast,
but note the northerly wine regions of historic
Importance on the locator map to the right.
IJ
levels are attractively refreshing. This
freshness has long been one ofthe welcome
d1stmct1ons of well- balanced Uruguayan
wines of all hues.
The cooled coast
About 90% of Uruguay's wine 1s grown m the
mar1t1me climate of the southern coastal
departments of Canelones, San Jose (m both
of which there has been some French
investment), and Montevideo, whose low hills
offe r a wide variety ofdiffe rent terro1rs . Soils
are generally loamy on various configurations
of clay and limestone. Promising new
plantings around the popular resort of Punta
del Este are heavily infl uenced by the
Atlantic . Bodega Garz6 n , in Maldonado on
granite and quartz, is one of a number oflarge·
scale foreign investments trialli ng a wide
range ofvar1et1es m this southeastern region.
In the developing Coloma department in the
southwest of the country, across the Rio de la
Plata (River Plate) estuary from Buenos Aires,
the alluvial soils are too fertile. Vines are too
vigorous to fu lly ripen their grapes.
International consultants have been hired to
address this problem . A significant proportion
of Uruguayan vineyards use the lyre trellis
system to let the grapes see the sun, keeping
the canopy open vital in such a damp climate
but time- and labou r-cons umi ng.
The original Harr1ague vines eventually
succumbed to viruses. Virtually all have been
replaced by vines imported from France,
called Tan nat to d1stingu 1sh them. However,
Gabriel Pisano, a member of the youngest
ge neration of this winemakmg fam ily, has
developed a liqueur Ta nnat of rare intensity
from surviving old-vine Harr1ague. Tannat is
still by far the most- planted variety, on 4,277
acres (1,731 ha) out of a national total w1ne­
grape vineyard area in 201 6 of15,926 acres
(6,445ha). Muscat of Hamburg apart., red
wme grapes dominate Uruguayan vineyards.
The second most-planted grape is Merlot,
a usefullyjuicy blendIng partner for the
notoriously tan nic Tannat. Both Cabernets,
Petit Ve rdot, Zinfandel, and now Marselan
are also popular. There is also Chardonnay,
Sauv1gnon Blanc, V1ogrner, Trebbiano,
To rrontes, and, more recently, Albar1 i'lo.
The Rivera department in the northeast 1s
v1t1cultural ly ind1stingu1shable from Brazi l's
promising Campan ha/Fro nte1ra on the other
side of the border. Soils in Rivera's Cerro
Chapeu region were identified as
encouragi ng deep-rooted vi nes. A wide
range of varieties has been trialled. In the
hotter, drier, and less mar1t1me climate of
the department of Saito m the northwest,
where Harriague was first planted on a
commercial scale, H Stagnar1 1s notable for
its rich, rounded style ofTan nat .
Wine companies of all sizes - mostly small
and med1um-s1zed including a host of new
enterprises, but also one of the biggest
producers, Juanic6 - are now beginningto
focus on raising quality, with the aim of
increasing the proportion of wine exported
from a mere 5%
International boundary
Departmento boundary
• llOIJZA Notable producer
C:
::
::J
Area with vines
1 2,00
0
.00
0
�D
�
��
i-
-�
��
�_.
.�
��.
.-�·
�o
ROCHA
tagunaQ
N.g10
Laguna
cie
ts'
'°'
.
L.

Chile
lmaatn• a sln1l• country In which
vineyard• extend 870 mll•• (1,400km)
from th• southern hemisphere latltudlnal
•qulvalent of Bordeaux to Timbuktu. That
country Is Chll•, where the vlne·1row lng
conditions are u varied u those of the
Atacama Desert and chilly Patqo nla.
Chile's geograp hy is decidedly unfriendly to
those assembling a collection of maps on a
north -south axis. Which 1s why our map of
the main regions runs west-east, and why
we have no room to map 1n detail thefa rflung
northernmost and southernmost wine
regions as they stand today - but probably
not tomorrow, to Judge fr om the recent
march ofthe vine.
Chile made its reputation as a producer of
low- cost, re liably fruity Cabernet and Merlot
grown with enviable ease in the vine paradise
that 1s the Central Val ley, but v1t1cultural
llm1ts are being tested in all direction s. Its
wines are becoming more refi ned, and more
regi onally distinct.
Origi nal ly, the official Chilean wine map
simply sliced this uniquely long, thin country
- bounded by the cold Pacific to the west and
the soaring Andes to the east - horizontally
into geopolitical val leys. But, in recognition
of the huge significance of these two
geographical infl uences (see panel on p.336),
1t is now sliced vertically, too. Chilean wine
producers may use the terms "Costa"
(coast}, "Entre Cordilleras" (between the
Coastal Range and the Andes}, and "A ndes"
on their labels to indicate wines grown in
these three very different environments
Even within the fa shionable coastal strip,
though, there can be quite a diffe rence
between vine-growi ng cond1t1ons on the sites
most exposed to the ocean and those on the
east-facing slopes of the Coastal Range.
And it is not just the climate that varies,
both laterally and longitudinal ly, but the soils
and underlying rocks, the special interest of
Chile's widely travelled terro1r consultant
Pedro Parra (pictured on p.25). Ancient
granite and, in some places, schist and slate
are fo und in the west of the country, while
deep clay, loam, silt, and sand deposits are
more common in the central plain between
the Coastal Range and the Andes, where soils
t11 nd to be conuv1al or alluvial, presenting the
wo uld-be vine-grower with an extraord inary
matrix of possible terro1rs.
A vln•·•rower'• paradise
Chile 1s exceptionally well suited to vtne­
growmg. Its reliable Mediterranean climate
res ults in day after day of cloudless sunlight
in a dry, generally unpolluted (though not
around Santiago) atmosphere. lftradlt1onal
11
J3
Chilean wi ne country has any natural
agricultural disadvantaae 1t Is that the
summers are virtually rai nless Even
Inca fa rmers laboriously dug an
astonishmg network of canals and
gu llies to flood the land with water
from the snow that melts each year
in the Andes (albeit less plentifully
nowadays}. This ad mirable, if
1mprec1se, sort of irr1gat1on has been
re placed in newer vineyards by drip
irrigation, which can both applyfe rtilizer
(often needed m Chile's sandier soils} and
respond more sensitively to the needs of
each vine row. With light but generally
fe rt ile soil and complete control ofthe
water supply, grape-growing 1s absurdly
easy. Indeed, the most qual ity-consc ious
producers are now actively seeking poorer
soils for their best wines.
Some of the older vineyards in the south
have always been dry-fa rmed. In some
newer wine regi ons expensive boreholes
are needed, occasionally involving the
politics of water rights. Rot and mildew are
not unknown, but are much rarer than they
are in most of Europe or even in Argentina
just ac ross the Andes.
Chile has one more distinctive attri bute as
a wine producer that may well be a result of
its geographical 1solat1on: fre edom from the
predations of phylloxera. Vines can safely
grow on their own roots, which means that
a new vineyard can be planted simply by
-
-
-
-
-
-
Cop1ap6
Huasco
Elqu1
L1marl
Intemabonal boundary
Regional boundary
� Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
Choapa
Aconcagua
Ma1po
Casablanca
Lo Abarca
San Antonio
Leyda
Cachapoal (within Rapel)
Colchagua (within Rapel)
Los Lingues
Apalta '
Cunc6
Llcant6n
Maule
ltata
Bio Bio
Malleco
Cautfn
Osorno
50
1 5,263,00
0
100
50
t
Concepc1 '
Punta Lengua
de Vaca
r·
IOUTH AMl:.. ICA
IH
30s
COQUIMBO
fftvalle
ARGENTINA
f
o

c
o
'
T
334
SOUTH AMERICA · CHILE
sticking cutti ngs straight into the ground,
without the time and expense of grafti ng
onto resistant rootstock - although selected
rootstocks are much more prevalent
nowadays. They can be used to encourage
even ripening, to adapt varieties to specific
sites, fo r resistance to local problems such
as nematodes, and iust in case the recent
influx of v1s1tors from ot her wine regions
should unwittingly import phylloxera.
Until the late 1990s, the most widely
planted grape in Chile was the common
Regional boundary
Aconcagua
Malpo
Casablanca
San Antonio
Lo Abarca
Leyda
Cachapo1
1
I (within Rape!)
Colchagua (within Rape!)
Los Lln11ues
Apalta
Curic6
L1cant6n
Maule
ltata
Lolol Wine 5Ubr91K>n
• ANADNA Notable producer
}()(
Contour Interval 40
0
metres
.. Wuther stat10n (WS)
Pals (Crlolla Chica in Argentina, M1ss1on in
California), and It 1s st ill exte nsively grown
for the tetrapak wine so popular within
the co untry But a growing number of
prod ucers, both big and art1sanal, are now
taking the variety seriously, particularly
from the old bushvines of Maule and ltata.
Chile 1s also a rich repository of long­
adapted Bordeaux grape varieties - from
cutti ngs imported directly from Bordeaux
before phylloxera ravaged the vi neyards
of Europe.
CHILE: CURICO
Latitude / Elevation ofW
· 34.97' / 748ft (228 m)
Average grow ing ;cason temperature at WS
63.4°F (17.4°C)
Ave rnge annual ra infall at WS
28in (724 mm)
1 lar;e,l mon lh ra infall at WS
March: 0.61n (14 mm)
Prrnci pJI vil1Lullural h.izards
Nematodes
l'ri ndp.i l g rapl' v 1 il'ltt' '
R . C bernet Sauv1goon, Merlot, Carmenere,
Pals, Syrnh, W: Sauvlgnon Blanc,
Chardonn y
>I•
For at least a centu ry, Chilean vineyards
were dominated by Pafs, Cabernet Sauvignon,
"Sauvignon Blancn (much ofwhich was actually
Sauv1gnon Vert/Sauvignona.sse), and "Merlot"
(much of which turned out to be Carmenere,
a vigorous h1stor1c Bordeaux variety that can
yield grapes with a somewhat gre
e
n streak,
and may be better as an ingredient in blends
than in varietal form).
But a late 20th- and early 21st-century
whirl of plantings of superior clones and new
var1et1es dramatically widened the range of
flavours avai lable from these wonderfully
healthy vineyards - not least
11100,00
0
10
20
10
CENTRAL CHILI
Turned on Its aide to lfve maximum cove,.
.,.
(north It left:), this map lnclude1 all four of the
Central Valley'• wine re1lon1 from the hlllald•
vineyards of Malpo around Santla&O to the
1trlklnstY flat plain of Maule - topther with aom•
of the newer, cooler, mainly coattal recton1, and
once-acomed wetter Maule and (part of) ltata

becau se almost all of the new regions are
cooler than the old. Tod ay, Cabernet still
predominates, but Chile produces
cred1tabl• examples of Syrah, Pinot No1r,
Malbec, Sauv1gnons Blanc and Gris,
V1ognier, Chardonnay, G ewurztraminer,
and even Riesling.
The far north
The rash of new wine regions are cooler than
the Central Valley either because they are
closer to the ocean, closer to Antarctica,
and/or closer to heaven. Possibly the most
dramatic current extension of the Chilean
wine map has been in the far north (see
p.333), although up there lrr1gat 1on 1s
essential, and not always easy Vines have
been planted at more than 8,200ft (2,500 m)
above the Pac ific in the middle of the
the border with
Bolivia. The
wine from these vineyards 1s called Ayllu, or
"community", and IS a blend ofSyrah, Malbec,
Pinot No1r, and Pals The northernmost
vineyard 1s 217 m iles (350 km) fu rther north at
20"5, southwest of lquique (see map on p.330).
These outposts are well north of Elqul and
Limari, which themselves are too far north
to flt on the detai led map. The steep- sided
Elqul Valley has been home to table grapes
and grapes for p1sco, Chile's curiously
ad dictive Moscatel -based spirit, for years,
but the Italian -owned Vina Falern1a wi nery
there has proved that the region 1s capable
of prod ucing award -win ning wi nes, notably
some particularly gutsy Syrah, at altitudes
of over 6,600ft (2,000 m). Even higher up
in the Elqu1 mountains, Marcelo Retamal,
celebrated winemaker for the innovative
producers De Martino, has planted Syrah
and other Mediterranean var1et1es at 7,237ft
(2,206 m) to create Vinedos de Alcohuaz.
The steep h1lls1de vineyards on granite here
bring to mind the northern Rhone - at the
h1ghest-poss1ble vo lume of flavour
Limarf to the south 1s a much more open
val ley Its vineyards are planted closer to the
Punta Carranza
Treg uale
CHILE • IOUTH AMlftlCA
.a
coast and are effi ciently cooled by the Pac1fk
because h ere, unusually for Chile, there Is no
Coastal Range to block the cold marine ai r
As a re sult, Tabalf, which haa planted vines
iust 7.5 miles (1 2km) fr om the coast, has
al ready shown that 1t can make world -class
Sauv1gnon Blanc, Chardonnay, and some
Increasingly fine Pinot Nolr. Like Elqui, this
was originally p1sco country, with an offshoot
of the local p1sco co-op being the one and
only winery for many years. It is a sign of
national confidence in the region that,
despite water shortages, the cou ntry's
biggest wine prod ucer by far, Concha y Toro,
bought the winery m 2005 and renamed it
Vina Maycas del Limari.
Aconcqua and the Pacific
The northernmost (so leftmost) wine region
that we map in detai l 1s Aconcagua (named
after the highest peak of the Andes, at
23,000ft/7,000 m). It 1s made up of three
contrasting subregions: the warm
Aconcagua Valley itself and the notably
cooler Casablanca and San Antonio valleys
The warmth of the broad, open Aconcagua
Valley 1s tem pered by winds that regularly
sweep cool mountain air coastward 1n the
early afte rnoons and fu nnel ocean air up
•I
from the river mouth most evenings, to
cool the west-fac ing footh ills of
the Andes In the late 19th
century, the Errazur1z
fam ily's
.!.
0
E
E
f
F
"

336
SOUTH AMERICA · CHILE
property at Panquehue was re puted to be the
single biggest wme estate m the world To day,
about 2,500 acres (1,000ha) of wine grapes
are grown in the Aconcagua Valley, and many a
hillside has been converted to vineyard Vines
are also being planted closer and closer to
the coast. Vineyards west of Colmo, 10 miles
(1 6km) from the ocean, enjoy cond1t1ons
about as cool as Marlborough 1n New Zealand,
and some of Chile's finest Pinot No1r and
Chardonnay 1s made by Errazuriz's winemaker
Francisco Baettig from vines planted in 2005
just 75 miles (1 2km) fr om the coast.
The Casablanca Valley, developed
fe verishly in the 1990s when 1t was the
first coastal -influenced wine region of the
modern era, ad ded fresh Sauvignon Blanc,
Chardonnay, and Pinot No1r to the �ountry's
wine palette. Dozens of bodegas, and al m ost
all of the big ones, buy or grow fruit here.
The val ley 1s too far from the Andes for the
regular evening dose of cooling mountai n air
that refreshes vines fu rther inland, or even
for access to meltwater for 1rrigat1on. But
although the far east of the valley is warmer,
much of Casablanca 1s so close to the sea
that cool breezes can be relied upon to lower
afte rnoon temperat ures by as much as 18°F
(1 0°C), which, with the valley's mild winters,
makes Casablanca's growing season up to
a month longer than that of most Central
Val ley vineyards. Spring frost 1s a perennial
and inconvenient threat, and 1t 1s not
unknown for vineyards on the frost- prone
open val ley floor to suffer frost a week
before harvest . The water shortage makes
anti-frost sprinklers a luxury, however. The
naturally low-vigour vines are also prey to
nematodes, so vines have to be grafted on
to resistant rootstocks. Growing costs are
higher here than elsewh ere.
The success of Casablanca encouraged the
development of the rol ling coastal hills of the
San Antonio Valley, ftrst planted in 1997 by
V11'1a Leyda and offi cially recogn ized in 2002.
The varied topography makes San Antonio
even more subject to cool, damp ocean
influence than western Casablanca Along
with Vina Leyda, the most important
pioneers were Casa Mari n, Matetic, and
Amayna, but many ot her producers source
grapes here, particularly Sauv1gnon Blanc,
Chardonnay, Pinot No1r, and more recently
Syrah, which has emerged as one of modern
Chile's strongest suits. In 2018, Casa Marin
won its campaign for a separate appellation,
Lo Abarca, for its exceptionally cool
environmentjust 2.5 miles (4 km) from the
Pacific. The infertile soils of San Antonio
consist mainly ofthin layers of red clay
on granite, as in the westernmost part of
Casablanca, with some limestone in
Lo Abarca. lrr1gat 1on water is just as scarce.
The Leyda Valley 1s an officially recognized
zo ne in the south of the San Antonio Val ley.
The Central Valley
Our map shows the Central Val ley's four
subregions. Cur1c6, and the three named
after the Ma1po, Rapel, and Maule rivers that
The 870- m ile (l,400-km) pine of
v111cyard in the Central Va lley i ooled
by the cold influence of lhe Humboldt
Curre nt, com111g from th e Antarct ic, with
..
.,
waters much colder tha n , ay, California'.
��
�-6;�
��
al the same lal it udc Anotherimportant
li
il
l"�':!
!J'
"
cool 1ng 111flu nee on the vine ards of
hilc , pa rti ularl 111.1 rked on the ca�t ern
half of the Ccntr.1 1 Va lley, is the nightly
de t ntofcool airfrom the ndcs.
Chilean w111emakcr s need ;wcatcrs at
nigh t even U10ugh theirgrape ripen
much more re liably t h a n their
< ounterpart> Ill , for cx.1111plc, Fran ce.
lold air from the A. ndc;
Od'>ttil marine breeze' fo rm low- I ing
tlouds and log ovc1 the valley
�
'i
i:
�
"i
il
�
llfl
l
c-.
:.
"'1--
(ol d hunud JJr f1 om the I I umboldt
Cun cnt nH•c t � th Co.1,t,ll Hangc
ll umboldt Cun cnt
cross the central plain to prerae the low
Coastal Range and ftnd the sea.
Maipo rs fa irly hot and nowadays suff&f'S
pollution from the smogs of Santiago.
It has the smallest vineyard area ofthe
Central Valley's regions, and vmeyard.s a,.
threate ned by soaring land values as
Santiago expands. Originally, its proxlrNtf
to the capital spaw ned a tradition of grand
plantations and extensive homesteads
belonging to Chile's 19th-century
gentlemen-farmers, some of whom
established the grant wine companies that
st rll dominate the Chilean wm e scene:
Concha y Toro, Santa Rrta, and Santa
Carolina. It was here that Chile's ftrst
generation of serious wine was made.
Ma1po is essentially red wine country and
when yields are restricted, the Bordeaux
var1et1es can produce world-class wines
vaguely re miniscent of Napa Valley
Cabernets, wrth an earthy undertone that 1s
distinctively Chilean. Puente Alto rs where
vineyards creep up the Andean foothills and
the mountain infl uence rs most keenly fe lt.
Its relatively chilly mornings and poor soils
have already resulted in some of Chile's
most ad mired Cabernets such as Almavrva,
Domus Aurea, Casa Real (Santa Rita's top
bottling), and those of Haras de Pirque and
V1nedo Chad wick. Vines are being planted
at higher elevations throughout the long
Central Valley in fac t, both towards the
Coastal Range in the west and on the drier,
cooler eastern slopes of the foothills of the
Andes wrth their long hours of sunshine.
The burgeoning and varied regi on of
Rapel to the rm med rate south of Mai po
encompasses the val leys of Cachapoal in its
north (including the Rancagua, Requinoa, and
Rengo areas - al l names occasionally found
on labels), and fashionable Colchagua to the
south, including San Fe rnando, Nancagua,
Chrmbarongo, and March1gue ( March1hue)
Los Lingues in the Andean foothills just
north of San Fe rnando rs another of the
new DOs created in 2018, as 1s Apalta, a
d1stinct1ve south-fac ing horseshoe-shaped
val ley where Montes and Lapostolle produce
ftne hrllsrde wines Cachapoal and, especially,
Colchagua and Apalta are names more ofte n
found on labels than Rape!, whrch te nds to be
reserved for blends from both subregions.
Colchagua, where Lurs Fe lipe Edwards has
planted vines as high as 3,300ft (1,000m).
has earned itselfa reputation for Chile's
most succulent Carmenere. At the other
extreme, towards the west, the new
Paredones area, close to the Pacific and very
hke San A ntonio In many respects, 1s the
source of fa r more refre shing whites than
are possible in inland Col c hagua As
throughout Chile, so ils vary enormously,
even within small zones, but there 1s some
of Merlot's classic partner clav here as

we ll as the usual Chilean cocktai l of silty loam
and sand, and some volcanic soils.
Quite a way down the Pan -American
Highway, with its ancient trucks and
unpredictable fau na, are the vineyards of
Curico, including the Lontue zone, which 1s
also often specified on wine labels. Here the
chmate becomes slightly more te mperate
and 1rr1gat1on is less hkely to be a necessity
Average rai nfal l is 10 times higher than in
the Elqu1 Valley, thefrost risk 1s very much
higher, and the Coastal Range extends far
enough east effectively to block any Pac ific
influence Miguel Torres of Catal unya
famously invested in a winery here in 1979
(the same year that Baron Philippe de
Rothschild struck another seminal
transatlantic deal with Robert Mondav1 of
California), and this act of fa ith in wine
country once thought ofas being impossibly
far south was followed by many others
Miguel Torres' Manso de Velasco 1s one of
Chile's most delicate Cabern ets.
The San Pedro winery at Mohna is
surrounded bySouth America's largest block
ofvines (3,000 acres/1,200ha), which 1s run,
like much 1n the Chilean wine industry, with
a technical prec1s1on fa r from any Latin
American stereotype One of the newest
official wine zones 1s the L1canten DO, again
cooled by the nearby Pac ific.
The southernmost subregion ofthe
Central Val ley and one ofChile's oldest wine
regions, Maule has twice the rainfall of
Santiago (although the same dry summers)
and Chile's greatest area ofvi nes on
substantial ly volcan ic soils Many of them are
basic Pais, and mixed plantings of var1et1es
such as Malbec and Carmenere. Cabernet
Sauv1gnon has been widely plan ted, but
the old Carignan vines dry-fa rmed on
smallholdings in the west of the region are
increasingly val ued Until recently, most
Maule grapes disappeared into big company
blends labelled Central Valley, but V1gno 1s an
ad mirable 1nit1at1 ve. Established in 2010, this
is an informal voluntary grouping designed
to showcase old-vine Maule Carignan. Its
members vary from big players such as
Undurraga and Concha y Toro to small ones
such as Gillmore and Mell
Miguel Torres has invested heavily in Pinot
No1r planted on slate-dominated terroir in
Empedrado in western Maule and the first
commercial vintages have shown real
potential . This Catalan incomer also
pioneered an amb1t1ous sparkhng wine that
shows Pais in a whole new light
Southern Chile ·
The three subregions of the Sur (Spanish
for South), ltata, Bio B io, and M alleco , have
less protection from the Coastal Range and
even cooler, wetter conditions than Maule
Grapes such as Riesli ng, Gewurztram iner,
Sauv1gnon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot
No1r are choices for those planting these
new vineyard s Older vineyards are still
dominated by Pals and (especially in ltata)
Moscatel. ltata was Chile's flrst coastal
The Fr ench -owned Casa Lapostolle has always
been innovative a pioneer of Colch agua's
well-favoured Apa/ta zone and unfettered by
tradition m the design ofits Clos Apa/ta wmery.
region to be planted with vines, soon after
the conquistadors arrived. Even today
there are wonderfully wild- looking but
thriving ancient Moscatel vineyard s in
Guarihhue 9 miles (1 6km) from the ocean,
their fr uit often sought by Chile's new wave
of wine producers.
The quality of Vina Aqu1tan ia's Sol de Sol
Chardonnay from Malleco was the first
internationally recognized wine that
encouraged others to extend the Chilean
wine map even fu rther south. Now a range
of explorers including, perhaps inevitably,
Miguel Torres continues to stretch the wine
map. The cold, wet Osorno region, for
instance, 575 miles (980km) south of Santiago,
now has a few small vineyards amid native
forests, lakes, and mountai n wildernesses.
Monkey puzzle trees grow here high among
the snows. Wines produced here, including
Pinot No1r and still and sparkhng wines from
Sauv1gnon Blanc and Riesling, are quite
different from the Chilean norm.
Montes has experimental plantings of five
var1et1es, including Riesli ng and Pinot No1r,
on the small, wild island of Mechuque and,
fu rt her south still, 1s the local v1t1cultural
research station 1n Chile Chico in Patagonia
The wine map continues its southward
extension
1l1

338
SOUTH AMERICA
Argentina
It took Argentina even longer than Chile to
catch up with modern wine. It has a huge
domestic market, which was happy with
old-fashioned standards largely derived
from Italy; whites were flat; reds brown
from too long In store, and sold in straw­
covered fiaschi. It fe lt so remote that
Moet & Chandon happily sold Its wine
there as "Champagne" - perhaps thinking
that no one would notice. Then, in the
early 1990s, someone did notice how juicy,
avai lable, and cheap Argentine Malbec
could be. From then on the story is simple.
Not even the cou ntry's chrome eco nomic
and pol itical troubles have held back its wine
industry's rise . in as p1rat1on, 1n qual ity,
and in altitude
Old cellars have been reiuvenated,
glamorous new ones built by investors from
all over the world, and new vineyards have
been planted ever· higher in the Andes
Argentines themselves began to drink less
but fruitier wine (though they still drink 75%
of their cou ntry's output), while Argentina's
intensely flavo ured, fu ll-bodied reds, and
some whites, became first more fam iliar
abroad, and then actively ad mired, particularly
in North America
Up in the Andes
The vibrant, tree-shaded city of Mendoza,
capital of Argentina's mai n wine region, is only
50 minutes by ai r from the Chilean capital
Santiago - so close that shopping bags are
a common sight on the crowded flights. Yet
the plane has to clear the highest ridge of the
Andes, a 20,000ft (6,000 m) serrated blade
ofrock and ice. The centres of Argentine and
Chilean wine may be cheek by JOWi, yet they
are poles apart in terms of natural conditions.
Both he in the low latitudes for wine-growing,
but while Chile's wine regions owe their ideal
growing cond1t1ons to their 1solat1on (they are
sandwiched between the cold Andes and the
cold Pacific), Argentina's most fa mous
vineyards, typically oases ofgreen set 1n
uncompromisingly arid semi-desert, exist
because of altitude.
At the heights that have characterized
Argentine wine-growing, overnight
temperatures are low enough to give well·
flavoured, deeply coloured grapes fo r red wine,
and 1n the cooler areas, crisp, aromatic wh ites.
With httle or no disease 1n the dry mountai n
air, and plentiful water supply, crops could
reachyields virtually unknown elsewhere, but
most of today's wine producers put quality
before quantity Trad itional vineyard s and
1rr1gat1on channels were sited so that the
v1net were routinely flooded with meltwater
of
f
the Andes Today, as snowfalls diminish, and
so many vineyards are sited in completely
new d1str1cts, supplies ofwater are much
more restricted Drip 1rr1gat 1on 1s
1ncreas 1ngly common Wine regions such as
Rio Negro and Juiuy can get enough water
from nearby rivers Ram does the trick in the
vineyards of southern Patago nia and the new
ones 1n Buenos Aires province. Some of the
most recently planted parts of the high Uco
Valley, such as Los Arboles, San Pablo, and La
Carrera, can also be dry-fa rmed As elsewhere,
water supply is becoming a key fac tor in the
economics, even v1ab1hty, ofa wine operation.
New plantings of the more nematode­
senslt1ve var1et1es such as Chardonnay may
be grafted onto rootstocks, but phylloxera
has so far posed no great threat . That flood
1rr1gat 1on was so common and soils are
relatively sandy may be perti nent. Argentine
vines are re markably healthy
At these altitudes, winters are cold, but
frosts present real danger. Summers in some
ofthe lower-altitude, lower- latitud e regions
can be iust too hot for fine wine prod uction .
And as the key fa cts panel on p.340 shows,
Argentina's annual precip1tat1on may be very
low (even in El Nino years) but 1s concentrated
in the growing season. In some areas,
particularly in the province of Mendoza,
where almost 70% of the country's vines are
planted, 1t has a nasty tendency to fa ll as
very local ized hail, which can devastate an
entire year's c rop. Special hail nets are a
common sight and can also usefully reduce
the risk of sunburn in the intense sunlight
The zonda, a fe arsome hot, dry wind from
the west, 1s another hab1hty
Most soils are al l uvial and re latively young,
with lots of big stones at high elevations .
A neatly trelltsed vineyard in the Uco Valley's
San Carlos, its southernmost department,
where fr ost can threaten. Snow cover on the
Andes is lessening, and with 1t supplies of
irrigation water.
Many a soil pit has been dug in recent years,
with a view to siting vineyards on basalt,
granite, limestone, and other calcareous
soils But the intensity offlavour that the
best wines demonstrate comes not only
from below but from above, fro m the Intense
sunlight, the dry air, and the day-night
temperature differences. At up to 36•F
(20°C) the diurnal temperature variation Is
higher than practically anywhere else in the
world. This is often because of altitude,
but in Patagonia in the south it is because
ofthe high latitude.
Apart from in the most southerly vineyards
of Patagoma 1n Chu but, or in the highest,
ripening grapes 1s all too easy Argentina's
high temperatures can be tasted in so�
tannins and high alcohols, although dedicated
growers fight this by managing the canopy,
carefully timing irr1gat1on, and cunning use of
hail nets to slow ripening. Alcohol in white
wines may also be moderated by picking on
different dates Adding acid used to be
routine but some newer sites are so cool that
the grapes' natural ac idity is enough
Dark and pale
The country's reputation abroad was built
largely on its most-planted red grape,
Malbec, introduced in 1853, together with
other French var1et1es such as Cabernet
Sau vignon and Pmot No1r. Malbec grown
today in Arge ntina is baffd on this mass

se l ection It not only tastes very different
from the selected clones that dominate
the vineyards of its l'lomeland, Cahors In
southwest France, 1t also looks different,
with much smaller, tighter bunches and
smaller berries. To keep its freshness and
l.nte ns1ty, Malbec Is best grown at slightly
higher altitudes than, say, Cabernet Sauv1gn on .
Deep-col o u red Bonarda, unrelated to any
Italian Bonarda but the variety called
Charbono in California, 1s arguably the
country's most underdeveloped wine
resource. Other red wine grapes, in declining
order of acreage, are Cabernet Sauv1gnon,
Syrah, Te mprarnllo, Merlot, Sang1ovese,
Plnot No1r (best in Patago nia and Mendoza's
highest vineyards), Tannat, Cabernet Franc,
Petit Ve rdot, Ancellota, Barbera, and Criolla
Chica (known as Pars in Chile, Mission in the
US). There 1s a little Cordisco (Montepulc1ano),
Aghanico, Nebb1olo, Garnacha, Corvma,
Tour1ga Nacional , Mourvedre, and even
Trousseau More and more producers, in a
movement pioneered by Alta Vista and
Achaval Fe rrer, and continued notably by
Catena Zapata, Trap1che, and Zuccardi, are
proving, usually in the highest vineyards, that
Malbec can also be playful, transparent and a
fine exponent of terro1r. Parallels are even
drawn with Pmot Noi r.
Cr1olla Grande, Cr1olla Chica, Cereza, and
Pedro Gimenez (Ximenez) were long widely
grown for the most basic wines, and rather
despised because of 1t But there have been
att empts to rehabilitate Ped ro Gimenez and,
mirroring Chile's new wave Pais, Criolla Chica.
The country's most distinctive white wine
is To rrontes. The name 1s applied to three
distinct vine varieties. To rrontes R10Jano,
a cross of Cr1olla Chica and Muscat of
Alexandria behaved to have originated in
LaR1oja province, is the finest. It reaches its
aromatic apogee in the high vineyards of
Salta province, notably around Cafayate.
Other widely grown wh ite grapes are
Chardonnay (planted with considerable
success), Chenin Blanc, Muscats, Pinot Gris,
and an increasing acreage of Sauv1gnon Blanc
- as1gn perhaps ofJust how high, and
therefore cool, some of the new plantings
are. The odd V1ognier has also emerged, and
Sem 1llon (pronounced Seml}on), Mendoza's
relatively common and emblematic white, 1s
enjoying a renaissance.
North and Central Argentina
Argentina's most northerly - and some of
the world's highest - vines are grown by
Claudio Zucchino close to the Bolivian
border i n Jujuy province at Chucalezna in
the narrow Quebrada de H u mahuaca Valley
at 10,922ft (3,329 m). And most vineyards in
this area are as high as 7,875-8860ft
(2,400-2 ,700 m). Rather lower, between
5,250 and 6,890ft (1,600 and 2,1 00 m),
t�
CALCHAQUI VA LLEY
..
.
1,i
_[
'
,,
0
'
\
\
Mol1
0
::>
This valley in Salta province is the world's
epicentre of the growing and making of
Argentina's characteristic white wine grapes,
the various Torrontes, although some fine red is
made here, too. Wine is one of the attractions of
the resort town of Cafayate.
vineyards ro und the holiday resort of
Cafayate in Salta have a reputation not Just
for their To rrontes but also fu ll-bodied,
peppery Cabernet and, increasingly, for
Tannat. Producers San Ped ro de Yacochuya
and El Esteco have shown that careful
vineyard management, old vines, and small
crops are the answer here Fine wine 1s also
now being made in Tu cuman very near the
border with Salta. Just to the south, in
Catamarca province, Chanar Punco In Santa
Maria produces some very respectable wine,
somewhat mislead ingly labelled Val les
Calchaqufes La Rioja province is best known
for, logically, Torrontes R10Jano, which 1s
typically trai ned on pergolas and vin1fled by
La R10Jana, the local co-op In C h 1 l ecito. The
dry, windy, higher Famat1na Valley is the
province's best- known wine region, with
,.
ARGENTINA • IOUTH AMllUCA
nl
-•-
Province boundary
MOUNOS Wine subregion (department)
•l!TCl
lAIU
Notable producer
-
Vineyards
C=:J Woods
-20
00
Contour interval 40
0
metres
Malbec, Syrah, and Bonarda the most
important red vari eties.
The only province that makes wine in any
quantity to rival that of Mendoza 1s San
Juan , to its north, which 1s mostly lower and
therefore even hotter and drier (hardly
4in/100mm of rai n fa lls in an average year).
Almost a quarter of all Argentine wine is
made here, much of 1t based on Moscatel de
Aleiandrfa, Argentina's main Muscat. They
grow Syrah here, too, though the climate is
too hot to offer much varietal flavour There
is also a little promising V1ognier, Chardonnay,
Petit Verdot, and Tannat. Just as in
Mendoza, aspiring producers are gomg
higher, into the Zonda, Calingasta, and
Pedernal valleys, where Cr1olla, Bonarda,
Malbec, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Gris, and
Viogn ier are grown.
•I•
c
0
0
T
E
f'
F
'G

•
•
•
c
340
SOUTH AMERICA · ARGENTINA
I
\
\
'
•
-®-
I
\
\
\
\
•SonRofoel
K1y to produc1rs
1Bl!Nl!GA
SIKAO
O!
2 CHB'IALDESANDES
MATIAsRla:ITl!L
LI
3AOIAVALFBR
RER
4LAGARDE
5V!A
A
AUCJA
6MENDEL
7UJIGIBOSCA
8MOSQUITAMUBRTA
NAVAR
RO
CO�
9 NORl'ON
1O MARCHIORII:IWUIAIJD
samMA
11Tl!R
RA7AS
DBLO
O
ANDES
12 MEIJPAL
13OOMINIODELPIAfA
International boundary
Province boundary
CBNl'RO oasis
ZONDA Wine region (department)
Ullum
Wine subregion (district)
Department boundary
CENTRO Oasis
Tll'L�<. r Wine subrel
lo
n (department)
Aj(relo Wine subflilon (dlstrtct and subdlstncts)
• TAPIZ Notable producer
Vineyards
Contour interval 40
0
metres
Weather stlbon <WSJ
CENTRAL MENDOZA AND
THE UCO VA LLEY
Most ofthe thousands ofhectares of vines
that now thrive in the high country of the
Valle de Uco m the southern half ofth1s map
have been planted relatively recently;
54,400 (22,000) of the valley's 74,000 acres
(30,000ha) - about 15% of the national total
- have been planted since 1990•
1 395,055
Km
?
._
____..
.;
1
,;,
,
,
o
___,.-
-
--"
'P
Km
Molo
o
0
10Milo
o
MENDOZA'S WINE REGIONS
11
<'
,Jr�
'
i
ARGENTINA: MENDOZA
Lallludc / Eleva tio n ufW
- 32 .83° I 2,312ft (705m)
Av erage growing ,cn�on l cmpcl'ul u r<• nt \\..
n.a°F <22°c>
Avt• ragc annual ra1nl:tll al V.' S
Bin (207 mm)
llarve!>l month 1aint.dl nl \\ S
March: 1in (26 mm)
Pri11c1p.1l v1lluiltu1 al h.11.1nl'
Summe,.
.
hail, zonda wmd, nernatod s, frost
Pn 1w1p.1l gr,1pt ,,mllit '
R: M albec, Bonarda, C bern t Sauv1 gnon.
Syrah; W ; Cereza, Cr1olla Gr nd , Pedro
Gimenez, To rronte• R101 no

Mendoza 1s by far the dominant Argentine
wine province, embrac ing many very
different regions within 1t Central Mendoza
has the longest trad1t1on of fine wine, and a
high proportion of Argentina's most fa mous
prod ucers are based here. Vineyards on
either side ofthe avenues that rad iate
southwest from the city, in the Lu1an de Cuyo
department, have developed a reputation for
especially fine Malbec Vineyard d1str1cts
within this area with their own reputations
for Malbec include Vistalba, Perdr1el, Agrelo,
and Las Compuertas, where soils are
particularly poor. The high average age of
vines here, many of which escaped being
pulled out in favour of house-building in the
1970s and 1980s, has contributed to wine
quality. The relatively warm department of
Ma1 pu may be better for Cabernet Sauvignon
and Syrah than Malbec.
Central Mendoza's climate 1s temperate
(almost cool in Vistalba and Las Compuertas)
and the soils unusually gravelly for Argentina
(especially in Ma1pu) when elsewhere in
Mendoza soils are more al luvial, stony, and
sandy. East and north Mendoza, where
vineyards are at lower altitudes and the
coohng infl uence ofthe Andes 1s at its
weakest, churn out oceans of table wine
fr om the workhorse grapes.
About 130 miles (235 km) southeast of
Mendoza city, San Rafael 1s lower, with its
vineyards between the Diamante and At uel
rivers generally ranging between 1,475 and
2,625ft (450-800 m) above sea level It has
the <:ountry's most extensive plantings of
Chanin Blanc and Sauv1gnonasse (called
Toca1 Friulano here) as well as substantial
plantings of Malbee, Cabernet Sauv1gnon,
Sonarda, Sauv1gnon Blanc, and Chardonnay.
San Rafael would make even more good wine
were 1t not so prone to hail
The most exerting part of Mendoza from the
'fine wine lover's poi nt of v1ew Is the Uco Valley,
named not after a river but after a.pre ­
Columb1an Indian chief reputed to have
introd uced 1rr1gation here. There are now
68,570 ac res (27,750 ha) of vineyard, over
twice as much as was planted m 2000, at
elevations of 2,950-6 ,560 ft (900-2,000 m)
Most ofthe highest vineyards ofMendoza are
here, on poor, mostly stony and limestone
soils, in three departments Tu pungato in the
north, Tu nuyan m the middle, and San Carlos
1n the south. Nights are cool enough to result
in delicate fruit flavours, and natural ac 1d1ties
are so high that the softening "malo" is
welcome. Much of Argentina's surprisingly
fine Chardonnay 1s grown in Tu pungato,
generally on calcareous soils. The most
important winemaking d1str1cts are
Gualtall ary and La Carrera, both with
plantings around 6,560ft (2,000 m).
Although it is not the highest part of the
Uco Valley, Tu n uyan has some of the most
dramatic landscapes. Here the Andes rise
directly from the vineyards. Tip-top Bordeaux
producers who have invested m Argentina
cluster in this spectacular setting: Michel
Rolland, Fran�o1s Lurton, the Bonnie fa mily
of Chateau Malart1c- Lagrav1ere, the Cuvelier
fa mily of Chateau Leov1lle Poyferre, Baron
Ben1amin de Rothschild of Chateau Clarke,
Laurent Dassault of Chateau Dassault, and
Henri Parent of Chateau La Violette The
main wine-producing districts m Tu nuyan are
Los Arboles and San Pablo, which are wet
enough to allow dry far ming, as well as Los
Chacayes, Campo de los Andes, Vista Flores,
and Villa Seca
San Carlos 'has some of the region's oldest
vineyards It 1s a bit more fro st- prone than the
valley's more northerly areas but can make
stunningly refreshing wines m districts such
as La Consulta, El Ceplllo, Los Indios, and
Eugenio Bustos, as well as Paraje Altam1ra,
a sub-appellation of La Consulta defined by
the alluvial fan of the Tu nuyan R i ver.
The u pper limits of v1ne cultivation In
Mendoza are st ill being tested, but a shortage
of irrigation water is no hel p. On the other
hand, the intensity of sunhght up here acts as
a spur to photosynthesis, phenolics such as
colour, flavour, and tannins ripen easily. It 1s a
Overhead trellises, called parral in Argentina,
were even quite recently thought impossibly
old-fashioned but are coming into their own
again as summers get hotter
rare Argentine wine, however young, that 1s
uncomfortably astringent The prevai ling
texture of Mendoza red 1s velvet
The most promising of several new wine
regions popping up m the eastern Buenos
Aires province 1s Chapad malal. Pinot No1r,
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling,
Gewurztram iner, and, especial ly, Albar1iio
can do well in its re latively cool, wet, and
windy conditions.
Patagonia
The vineyards ofPatagonia, in the south of
the country, lie in the provinces of Neuquen
and especially Rro Negro These were once
vast 1rr1gated apple and pear orchards with
their own rai lway to the coast. As vineyards,
they have a d1stinct1ve character Despite
benefiting from a much more plentiful water
supply than most Argentine wine regions,
Patago nian wines tend to be chewier and
drier, if no less intense, than Mendoza's wines
Antarctic infl uences keep temperatures
down. Low rainfall and persistent winds keep
vine disease at bay and crops small. These are
bright, d1stinct1vely sculpted wines, strong on
structure and character. White wines, Merlot,
and Pinot Noir are the local specialities, with
old Pinot vines indicating exceptionally high
potential The lncisa della Rocchetta fa mily,
better known for Sass1ca1a, are among
prominent Italians who have invested here.
Early offerings from the southernmost
vineyards in the province of Chubut manage
to combine razor-sharp natural ac idity with
alcohol levels of only 11 to 12% - a rarity
these days. In the south of Chubut, around
Trevelin, frost can threaten 20 or even 30
times maseason Grape-guzzling Patago nian
maras (also known as hares) are a major
problem, too.
Argentina keeps on surprising us.
141

344
•
•
c
0
Austral ia
In 1788, the ftrst governor of New South
Wales planted vine cuttings at Farm Cove
on Sydney Harbour. "In a climate so
favourable," he wrote, "the cultivation of
the vine may be carried to any degree of
perfection." He was right, and by the late
19th century Australia was sending vast
quantities of strapping, sun-ripened wine
to Britain, where it was sold as "tonic"
and routinely treated with disdain.
Most of 1t was fortified and called "port" or
"sherry", there were few ambitious makers
of anything less alcoholic. A small coterie,
though, scattered around Victoria, South
Australia, and New South Wales, made
table wines that earned an almost mystical
reputation for their original character and
legendary lasting power
The 1970s saw a rad ical change. Fortified
wine sales slumped; table wines took off -
and found eager export markets m Europe.
Such thrusting salesmen as Wolf Blass
formulated sweet, oaky, concentrated wines
SOUTH EASTERN
AUSTRALIA'S QI•
There 11 a marked
contrut betwffn moat
of th•H wine re1ion1 and
the heavily and
incr..
.
lnlly expensively
irrlpted Inland re1lon1
on the Murr-,y, Darline.
Murrumbk:lpe, and
Lachlan river•
that collected go ld medals and prai se.
More sens1t1ve wine-growers (there were a
growing number) made less money and were
soon go bbled u p by big breweries.
In the 1990s and early !?OOOs, Australian
wine exports soared, but this encouraged a
frenzy of planting, some of 1t rrl1sgu1dedly
encouraged by tax breaks, and a large part
depending on 1rr1gat1on from the Murray­
Darl ing River A grape glut, perhaps inevitably,
followed, exacerbated by deep discou nting on
the domestic market and extreme weather
inflicted by El N11'io then La Nina Drought
plagued many wine regions between 2007 and
2010, with grapes picked weeks earlier than
usual. Then, from 2011, La Nina infl icted some
ofthe wettest growing seasons ever on South
Eastern Australian fa rmers. (Meanwhile
Western Australian vineyards experienced
a sublime run ofvintages from 2006 - which
emphasizes just how enormous Australia
is: Perth to Brisbane by road 1s as far as
Madrid to Moscow. )
359
ICTO
._
_
_
_
_
__.:
:.
Ca
=-. O�
The world's largest island ts very far from
any but its domestic cons umers. They do
their best, drinking more thanfive times as
much wine per head as they dtd 10 1960 - with,
in many cases, exceptional discrimination. But
they soak up only about 40% ofthe winetheir
country produces, so Austrahan wine has to
be exported to survive. Imports, hel ped by
the mighty Austrahan dollar, provide stiff
competition, and two-thirds of it by value
comes from ac ross the Tas man Sea. A glot
of New Zealand's most fa mous wme from the
mld-2000s on resulted in such a flood of
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that 1t was
nicknamed a "Savalanche".
Around the same time, Australia's two
most important export markets wobbled
The capr1c1ous American market decided
that Australian wi ne, too often represented
by cheap, sweet, so-called "critter brands",
was out of fas hion And at more or less the
same time the handful of supermarket
retai lers that rule the Br1t1sh mass market
decided that Australian brands in bottle
were becoming too expensrve and switched
to importing bulk wine bought to a price fo r
their own- label brands.

0 Gymp111
1
0Coproy
0 Dolby
Q EENSLA ND\
Toc\woomba0
Ipswich
t
State boundary
• Penola Notable wine town
Geographical Indication (G il
C=3 Land50
0-
100
0
metres
Land above 100
0
metres
[J!
!:J
Area mapped at larger scale
on page shown
Western Australia map p 347
Tasma nia map p.366
1 5,30
0
,00
0
KmO
SO
100
lSOKm
to-�-
-'�-.-
--�
��
•o
SO
lOOM>t.
21
It has been Chinathat came to
the rescue Thanks to China's
enthusiasm for Australian wine,
optimism has returned to
Australia's wrne producers
Exports to China have surged so
that they are now worth more
than those to the UK and US
combined Only France sends
more wine to Chinathan Australia.
The sort of wrne ad mired by
the Chinese - fu ll-bodied reds,
preferably expensively packaged
- 1s very different from the
deftantly fre sh, often pale,
irght- bod1ed wines currently
sought by younger Australians
back home. But, happily, Austral ia
can do both.
Hot, hot, hot
As the surface temperature map on
p.346 shows, most of th1s vast country
is too hot and/or too dry even fo r the
hardy vine, and most wrne regions hug
the coast, mainly the coolest, most
heavily populated southeast coast, plus
Tas mania and the far southwest.
There are two paths to cooler
cond1t1ons: fu rther south or uphill. The
Great D1v1drng Range 1s flan ked by wine
regions all the way At its northern irm1t 1s
the wine country of Queensland, focused on
two relatively h1gh-elevat1on, and therefore
cooler, wine regions (known as Geographical
Indicat ions or G ls): the Granite Belt and
South Bu rnett. The Granite Belt,
responsible for two -third s of al l Queensland
wines, has one ofthe cou ntry's most
dramatic landscapes, scattered with giant
gran ite boulders. It cleverly differentiated
itselfas early as 2007 by specializing rn
grapes other than the usual s uspects.
Known in Austrai ra as "alternative var1et1es",
one of the most obvious changes to the
Austrairan wrne scene has been their rise.
The ftrst to ac hieve commercial success was
Prnot Gris/Gr1g10, pioneered on V1ctor1a's
Mornington Pen insula. It now produces more
wine than Riesling, Austraira's classic wh ite
grape, and was outlawed from the annual
Austrairan Alternative Variety Show in 2010
on the basis that 1t made up 2 4% of the total
national crush . It Is surpassed in premium
whites only by Chardonnay and the
increasingly popular Sauvignon Blanc.
Although slowed by Australia's pai nstaking
plant quarantine, the range ofvarieties has
been growing ra pidly. By 2015, there was
more Tempranillo In the ground than the
h1stor1cally Important Malbec, and nearly as
much Te mpran lllo as Me.taro (Mourvedre)
Nebb1olo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Montepulc1ano,
and Nero d'Avola al l featu red i n the 20
most- planted red wine grapes, just as Arne1s,
I•
F1ano, Ve rmentlno, Savqn in, and Giera (the
Prosecco grape) did 1n the top 20 whites
(The relevance of Italy 1s obvious. )
As for the major varieties, Shiraz continues
to be the signature grape ofAustralia:
almost one vine 1n every three . Its wines vary
enormously but, m1rro r1ng a general trend,
there has been a swing away from su per­
concentrated, heavily oaked wines made
from often overripe grapes to styles that
speak more of the vineyard than wi zardry 1n
the cellar. A fas hion for co-fermenting Shiraz
with V1ognier (aping Cote-Rot1e) has waned ,
and some of the fr esher wines are labelled
"Syrah" rather than "Shiraz" as a nod to
France. Even Australia's agenda-setti ng wine
shows have been changi ng, garl and ing wine
styles that wo uld have been unthinkable a
decade previously
But 1f Shiraz has evolved, Chardonnay (the
country's second most-planted variety) has
had a complete personality change. It was
sweet, rich oak rness that ftrst sold Australian
Chardonnay in the 1990s But the minute
Australian exporters sensed that their maior
markets, the UK and US, were tiring of th1s
style, winemakers throughout Austral ia put
their Chardonnays on the strictest of diets.
In the 2000s, they went through a lean,
mean phase but today, a typical Australian
Chardonnay 1s a hugely appetizing, wel l­
balanced, we ll-made, generally we ll-priced
answer to wh ite burgundy
For al l va rieties, and the increasing number
of blends, there has been a real shift away
from pride in technical prowess towards
more art1sanal methods. Prod ucers are now
more interested in expressing geography
than technique
The wine fact ories
Much of the wine exported in bulk, indeed
60% of the country's entire crop, comes
from Australia's vast inland vineyard, in
declining order of the amount of wine
produced: Riverland in South Australia,
Murray Darling straddling the V1ctor1a- New
South Wal es border, and Riverina in New
South Wales. R1verina 1s not all about bulk,
there 1s some rich botryt1zed Sem1llon from
Griffith These are regi ons that wo uld not
exist without 1rr1gat1on from the Murray,
Darling, or Murrumbidgee rivers and are ru n
with stagge ring efficiency, 1f on dangerously
depleting reserves of water
Some of the red wines need bolstering with
ingredients from cooler regions, and these
vast wine fact ories rn the desert wi ll
undoubtedly shrink fu rther ifthere is another
run of drought years. (One of the few beneftts
of the drought years was to impose much
greater d1sc 1phne on water use and re-use.)
Australia's total area under vine had shrunk
from a high of429,454 acres (173,794ha) in
2007 to barely 333,000 acres (135,000ha) by
I•
c
0
D
'
T
f
o

346
AUSTRALIA
2015, when the last vineyard census was
conducted. Grape prices had plummeted,
especially in the 1rr1gated inland regions, but
are slowly recovering, helped by the newfound
enthusiasm for Mediterranean var1et1es
better able to withstand hot, dry weather
Wines from the inland river regions are
labelled South Eastern Australia, a GI used
liberally for many a wine made from the
blended produce of virtually anywhere other
than Western Australia. Australia has a long
tradition of blending between different
regions. Indeed, some of the greatest
Australian wines the authors have ever
tasted qualified as "inter- regional blends",
exh1b1ting a uniquely Australian approac h
to winemaking. They persist, however
unfashionable they may be currently with
geographical purists looking for "terro 1 r".
Australia was the first major wine country
to embrace screw caps, for red wines as
well as whites, spurred on initially by the
much smaller New Zealand wine industry
Exporters may offer the choice of trad1t1onal
cork or sc rew cap, especially to Chinese
customers, but the great ma1or1ty of
Austral ian producers, and the al l-important
show Judges, are completely converted to
1nc.hes rmmJ
- <98!2501
- 98197(250 50
0
)
ll 295(50
0
750)
- )�J941750lCX
Xl
)
- rl 449.ll CX
Xl
12501
- 49 "9111250- 150
0
)
->501 ]?()())
AV ERAGE ANNUAL PRECIPITATION
the virtues of Stelvin, referring to 1t by the
name ofthe dominant brand . Some ofthe
new wave smaller prod ucers, however, wear
their cork closures as a mark of d1stinct1on
from big company techniques
Limestone Coast
One significant wine region not mapped in
detai l on the following p�es Is South
Aust ralia's Limestone Coast. The most
important of the official regions within this
geometrically drawn GI are Coonawarra
(once fa mous and considered in detail on
p.357). then Padthaway and Wrattonbully,
with Mount Benson, Robe, and Mount
Gambier much smaller, and Bordertown yet
to seek ind1v1dual recogn ition.
Padthaw&¥ was the first l i mestone-rich
alternative to Coonawarra to be scouted out
in this remote corner of Australia's wine
state. While the soils are not d1ss1milar to
Coonawarra's, the climate 1s usefully warmer,
although 1t took the big companies that
dominated vineyard ownership here some
time to work out that the regi on 1s best at
Chardonnay and Shiraz. Most of the grapes
are shipped north to be vinified in big
com pany cellars .
F ("CJ
- <�5(13)
-55590315) looco
ol
)
59 63 05-171 l<ooll
CJ 63 6607 19 l•nlermed,.Je)
66 70 119 21J lwarm)
- 70 75 (2l 24J (ho11
- >75 124Jlto
o
h'U
Wrattonbully, iust n o rth ofCoonawarra,
1s cooler and more homogeneous than
Padthaway and, not least thanks to its terra
rossa soils, 1s likely to prove the most
interesting, although it has only about a third
the vineyard area of Coonawarra and half
that of the more established Padthaway.
Several high- profile fam ily companies have
invested here, including Yalumba, Tapanappa,
Terre a Te rre, and Pepper Tree. A few
plantings around Mount Gambler suggest
that this southern outpost of mixed fa rmrng
1s too cool to ripen Bordeaux grapes but
shows potential for Pinot Noir
Mount Benson has al most a score of
ind1v1dual growers, while Robe, a remarkably
similar region to the south, has been
virtually colonized by the giant multrnat1onal
Treas ury Wrne Estates . Wine made from
grapes grown right on the coast here 1s
1u1cier, less concentrated, than the sinewy
fe rments of Coonawarra. Sea breezes cool
the vineyards al most constantly, although
they can be dangerously salty At least the
underground water table 1s free of salinity
(a common problem in parts of Australia),
and the prospects, give or take a frost or
two, look good.
GROWING SEASON AVERAGE TEMPERATURE
\1o'>t of \u•.trailn\ prec1p1tat1on fa lls a ram heuvy ram In the tropical
fm north, lhl' ea•t coast , and on Ta • ma111J'b we�t coa o,t But overall the
muntr} " cxt renwly -. horl of \\ ,1tc1 \'l t1tulture tend• to com()de w1lh the
d.1mpg1 1·1•n,nd yl'ilow area., on th1 map 111 the outh oJ the rnuntry,
\\h1· n aH·rngc ,1 111
1
u.il prcup1l<1t10n , ., at lca<,l 197 111 (500 mm), the
1111111mum g1· n tra ll decnwd nue.,.,ar} without .,uppkmcntary irril(at1on
The e Jvcrag tc mperaturcs, lrom I Ol tohcr to :lo o\pnl. broadly con el.i1 <'
lo the 111Jt t1r1 ty pot cnli,11 for \\ 111c gr, 1p \,1 rit' l JL"' Tht' rnol l11rnt lo1
v1t1Lulturc h, fou nd 111 111 ud1 ofT;b111.1111a , 111 1 ht' i-<>UIhot\1ctor1 .1 , und 111
eleval d parh of cJ>lt' rn cw South W.1Je,, 111aktng them tlw fot u 101
cool -c hm, 1le \.Jllrnltuie Th uppe1 lim1t 1, rough ly 70' I
'
(21 ·c ') o th.11
most of U>li ulia I'> un;u1tcd to Wlllt gro.,.11
1
g

Weste r n Australia
Thia Atlas reads west to east, left to right,
on each continent, so "WA" la our landfall.
Not th• first In Importance ofAustralia's
wine rellons, with just 5% of the country's
win• output, but in quality terms very
near the top, with a distinctive lightness
I 2,250,00
0
,,
of touch combined with rlpeneaa of fruit
- an unusual combination In Australia.
Margaret River, WA's single most important
regi on, is mapped on p.349.
The ftrst colonists of Western Austral ia
were al most as quick to start winemaking as
those of New South Wales. The Swan Val ley,
iust upstream from the state capital , Perth,
saw its first vintage in 1 834. Because ofthe
searing heat of the summer, with dry winds
from the interior ke eping temperatures
close to 100°F (38°C) for weeks, the
l!l
l!lL
Wine region (Gil
�Y'l
ll
ly
. Wine subregion (GI)
• PICARDY Natable producer
•Forest HW Noted vineyard
·40
0
-
Contour interval 20
0
metres
�
Area mapped at larger
�
scale on page shown
FROM PERTH TO ALBANY
Western Australian wine production started
close to Perth in the Swan Valley, from which
came Houghton's "White Burgundy", a dry
white blend that was a national hit. But, from
the 1960s, after a certain amount ofCahfornian
prodding, would-be vine-growers set up shop
much further south.
,.,
AUITIULIA
M7
early vintners realized that their fo rte for
many decades would be dessert wines. It
says much fo r their skill and inge nuity that
the pioneer, Houghton, nonetheless made
what for years was the whole cou ntry's
bestselling dry white, long called "White
Burgundy" (now White Classic), based on
Chanin Blanc and perfumed with who- knows ­
what, from the baking-hot vi neyards around
Perth . It was not until the late 1960s that
Western Austral ians realized that the real
potential lay fu rt her south, in the cooler
parts ofth1s vast, almost em pty, state, where
Antarctic currents and onshore weste rlies
cool things down con siderably.
Moving south
The Great Southern region, ftrst staked
out at Mount Barker in the 1960s and
progressively extended, offers some of the
coolest, wettest terrain in Australia with
some grapes still on the vine we ll into May
Forest Hill and Plantagenet were the
pioneers, but the region has since been
invaded by an army of small growers. Some
ofthem rely on one of several sizeable
contract winemaking operations, but more
and more of them are pursuing thei r own
small -scale independent proiects and
planting an ever wider range of varieties.
Great Southern was one of the earliest
regions to be d1v1ded into subregions.
Fran kland River, Denmark, Mount Barker,
Albany, and Porongurup, go ing eastwards
The most obvious strengths of Mount
Barker (not to be confused with the Mount
Barker of Adelaide Hills) have so far been fine
Riesling, Cabernet Sauv1gnon, and some
attractively peppery Shiraz . Forest Hill
vineyard, planted in 1965, recently revived,
and supplying the winery of the same name in
Den mark, qual ifies as one of the Western
Austral ian wine industry's historic
landmarks. Denmark on the coast 1s even
wett-er but often warmer. It can be a
challenge to ripen Bordeaux var1et1es and
keep thinner-skinned Shiraz healthy, so
early- maturing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
work best Vineyards are widely scattered
here so Den mark, like the towns of Albany
and Mount Barker, has emerged as a focal
poi nt for what Australians cal l "ce llar doors",
the local wineries' retail operations.
Albany 1s the region's princi pal population
centre, and Western Australia's first
European settlement. Shiraz and Pinot No1r
both seem at home here. Higher and
fu rther inland, a st ring of vineyards along
Porongurup's striking gran ite hills prod uce
fine, particularly mineral , taut Riesling,
while Chardonnay and Pinot No1r go from
strength to strength.
Boom -time arrived at Frankland River
in the late 1990s, largely driven by tax
1ncent1ves. This subregion, inland and west
•I
c
o
0
'
E
T

348
of Mount Barker, now has Great Southern's
greatest concentration of vineyard s (and a
1,000-acre/400 ha olive estate), though few
wineries Fe rngrove 1s by far the biggest
operation, Alkoom1 has an established
reputation for Sauv1gnon Blanc (and olive 011).
Frankland Estate's strength 1s single·
vineyard Riesling and a Bordeaux blend
known as Olmo's Reward 1n recogn ition of
the California wine professor, Harold Olmo,
who first suggested planting vines here
back in the 1950s. The Justin vineyard was
planted on the Westfield estate around 1970
and has long provided fruit for Houghton's
superlative red blend, named after its
legendary winemaker, Jack Mann.
V1t1cultural academic John Gladstones
predicted 20 years ago that the war mer,
drier ro lling landscape here would be perfect
for cool ·climate styles of Shiraz Larry
Cherubino at his Riversdale estate, with
clones that include some from the northern
Rhone, has proved him right.
To wards the lndlan Ocean
Most significant of the many vineyards
between here and the Indian Ocean coast
are the plantings in Mani1mup (also known as
Austral ia's truffle capital) and Pemberton
Being fu rther from the cooling influence of
Antarctic currents on the coast, Manjimup
has a slightly more continental climate, and
a higher proportion of grave lly loam soi ls
But although Mani1mup's potential shine
through in Batista Pinot No1rs, Pemberton
has the higher prof'r le Producers uch as
Gilbert WinH of Mount Barker Is a more typical
Wes tern Austral/an winfN'y Ho we ve r humble,
they all tend to have cellar doors open to the
many visitors to this beau tiful corner
of th• wine world.
P1cardy are concentrating on Burgundy
var1et1es with some fine re sults, and
Pembe rton's Sauv1gnon Blanc 1s among
the state's best Pe mberley Farms grows
fr uit for many of the state's benchmark
exam ples Bellarm1ne's German founders
make great Riesling, while Leeuwin Estate's
former vit1cultur1st John Brocksopp has a
winning way with white Rhone varieties at
Lillian Estate
As in Margaret River to the southwest, it
was men of medicine - Dr Peter Pratten
(of Capel Vale) and Dr Barry K1llerby - who,
m the 1970s, established the Geographe
wine region. Both planted vineyards on the
southern coastal stri p between Sunbury
and Busselton known as Capel. Geographe's
climate, like Margaret River's, 1s thoroughly
infl uenced by the Indian Ocean, but the soils
are diffe re nt, rangi ng from sandy coastal
plains (the so- called Tuart Sands) to alluvial
soils and, 1n the hillier cou ntry away from
Perhaps the most sophisticated winery
in WA 1s Leeuwin Es tate, whose concert series
has attracted the London Philharmonic,
Staatskape/le Berlin, Dame K1r1 Te Kanawa,
Ray Charles, Diana Ross, and To m Jones.
The wines aren't bad either (s ee opposite).
the coast, granite. Vines have been planted
enthusiastically, especially inland in the
Ferguson Valley, Donnybrook, and Harvey
A wide range of grape var1et1es can thrive
here In addition to traditional-strength
Chardonnay and the Bordeaux var1et1es,
Te mpranillo and other Iberian grapes
show promise, especial ly at Mazza. Italian
varieties and Rhone-ish red blends are
gam ing importance in the Ferguson Valley.
Blackwood Valley 1s essentially the
particularly beautiful land between Geographe
and Manji mup. The region has grown
significantly this century, but has been slower
than its neighbours to raise its profile

WESTERN AUSTRALIA • AUSTl'IALIA
Ml
Margaret Rive r
of grapefruit peel PronHrt Leeuwin Estate
have been joined by many equally reliable
producers offtne Chardonnay, the most
notable of whrch are Cape Mentelle, Cullen,
Flametree, Fraser Gallop, Pierro, Vasse Felix,
Voyager Estate, and Xanadu. The region
Wine tourlats and surfers mJnste alon1
thla fertile, windswept coast. Australla
ha• few landscapes as 1reen or trees as
splendid as In Its soarinl karri and jarrah
fo rest, dotted with brilliantly coloured
birds and hopping kanaaroos. Margaret
River's surf 1s world- re nowned, surging in
from the west to break on its lonely, rocky
shores The land was settled by veterans
after World War II and saw vines only in the
1960s When the vines arrived, pioneered in
the classic Austral ian fa shion by doctors,
they tilted the whole package slap- bang into
paradise. Today, tourists can choose from
no fe wer than 90 cellar doors to encourage
the illusion.
The first vines were planted here in 1967
and the first wines emerged in the early
1970s, from Vasse Felix, followed by Moss
Wood and then Cullen - all of them created
by doctors. Cr1t1cs 1mmed1ately recognized
a quite re markable quality in the wines,
particularly in the Cabernets Sandalford,
Houghton's neighbour and rival in the
Swan Valley, rapidly moved in with a large
plantation. In 1972, Robert Mondavi of
California became enthused and encouraged
Denis Horgan to develop the ambitious
Leeuwin Estate, which rapidly became as
fa mous for its creamily author1tat1ve Art
Series Chardonnay as for its world-class
outdoor concerts.
Soil variation
Today, Margaret Rrver has more than 160
prod ucers, on wildly varying soils, of wh1ch
free -draining ironstone gravels are most
prized for the region's exceptionally fine
reds. Springcan be so windy as to affect
flowering and reduce the crop, especially of
the tiny-berried Gingin clone of Chardonnay,
prone to m1llerandage (see p.31), which
predominates here. Yet this is one of the
reasons for the concentration of flavour in
many wines from the heartland of Margaret
R iver. Summers are dry and warm and,
because the region 1s less than 19 miles
(30 km) wide, rt 1s tempered by reliably cool
afte rnoon wi nds off the ocean. Grapes are
often picked as early as January.
The Cabernet heartland of W1lyabrup 1s
most heavily planted, but the vine extends
the whole length of the Margaret River
region - from milder Ya llingup in the north
(which benefits from the tempering
i nfl uence of Geographe Bay) all the way to
Augusta on the Southern Ocean coast
Here, the dominant influence 1s Antarctica
rather than the Indian Ocean This is classic
white wine country, although Stella Bella,
McHenry Hohnen , and others have
11
demonstrated that fine reds can also be
prod uced In the southern half of th1s map
Margaret River's reputation has been built
on Cabernet Sauv1gnon with usefully ripe
tannins and, often, a hint of something
marine - oyster shells? It Joins such other
west coast wine regions as Bordeaux,
Bolgher1, Napa/Sonoma, and the Limestone
Coast (see p.346) in its propensity to turn
the rays of the setting sun into some of the
most sat1sfying, itnd ageworthy, red wine in
the world There 1s both finesse and ripeness
in Margaret River's best Cabernets, although
most producers also make a Bordeaux
blend, usually Cabernet/Merlot (of which
Cullen 1s the prime exponent). Malbec and
Petit Verdot are increasingly grown as
components in blends, too.
Nor has the region's obvious affi n ity with
Cabernet hindered plantings of Shiraz,
which reach an appetizing halfway house of
ripeness between Barossa heft and Rhone- r sh
white pepper. Chardonnay is outstanding
here, too, and often characterized by a note
Porth
rgoret
'""'
Alben
WUy.ibrup
•Cl.JUEN
_ roo-
�
KmO
Mor.o
Unofficial wine subregion
Notable producer
Vineyards
Contour interval
50 metres
Weather station (WS)
1 350,00
0
IOKm
5Mor.
has also establrshed a national, ifnot
international reputation for its own vibrant,
tropical -fruit-flavoured blend of Sauvignon
Blanc and Sem1llon. The range of grape
varieties planted and taken seriously has
been expanding as rapidly in Margaret River
as elsewhere.
J
(N
Cape
Cla11oult
The great concentration offa mous, well-established
names is here in Wilyabrup, where tourists can
practically walk between wineries. This is the
first ofMargaret River 's subregions to establish
a claim to official recognition.
MARGARET RIVER:
MARGARET RIVE R
La titude / Elevation of WS
· 33.53° / 358ft (109m)
Average growing season temperature at WS
66.2°F (19.0°C)
Average annual ra infall at W
30in (759 mm)
Harve t mon th rainfall at WS
March: 1.41n (21mm)
Principal vi ticulturnl hn�a rd
W ind, birds
l'rin ipnl grape vn rielie
R: Cabernet Sauvignon, Shirazi W : Sauvignon
Blanc, Chardonnay, Scmillon
I•
•I
'
o

350
AUSTRALIA
South Australia: Barossa Valley
South Australia Is to Australia what
California is to the USA: the wine state. It
crushes just over half of the nation's wine
grapes, and houses all the most Important
wine and vine research organ izations.
Adelaide, the state capital, 1s fittingly
surrounded by vineyard s The landscape
on the 35-mile (55- km) drive northeast to
South Australia's answer to the Napa Valley
1s filled with vines The Barossa Va lley was
founded by German-speaking 1mm1grants
from Silesia in what 1s now Poland, and
even today much in the val ley 1s Germanic,
including a sense of community, an
appetite for hard work, and a taste for
Wurst and Riesling.
Barossa 1s Australia's biggest quality wine
d1str1ct It follows the North Para River for
almost 20 closely planted miles (nearly
30km), and spreads eastwards into the next
val l ey, Eden Valley, fro m the 750ft (230 m)
elevation of lyndoch to over 1,800ft (550 m)
in the east Barossa Ranges. The Barossa
Zone encompasses these two contiguous
wine regions, so a wine labelled iust
"Barossa" may be made from a blend of Eden
Val ley and Barossa Va lley grapes
Although nights are cool (much cooler
than Mclaren Val e, fo r Instance), Barossa
summers are hot and dry But the region's
rich legacy of mature, deep- rooted,
unlrr1gated bushvines - ofwhich around
200 acres (80 ha) are ov.er 100 years old -
are we ll-adapted to this climate Because
there 1s a st ringently imposed quarantine,
South Australia 1s yet to be invaded by
phylloxera, so most vines are ungrafted and
are planted directly into the soil, many of
them cutti ngs from older vines.
Such vines can produce the most
concentrated form of what has become one
ofthe world's most d1stinct1ve wine styles,
Barossa Shiraz. Rich and chocolatey, spicy
and never shy, these wines can range from
unctuously alcoholic elixirs to a more
modern idea: earlier picked wi nes designed
to showcase the valley's many different
terro1rs . Some Barossa winemakers add
tannins as well as ac id, however, so the
typical Barossa Shiraz 1s a demanding
mouthful, especially m youth Instead of the
long post-fermentation maceration that
Bordeaux producers give their wi nes while
extract ing colour and tan nins, Barossa reds
are typical ly encouraged to finish their
fe rmentation m American oak barrels,
imbuing them with a heady bourbon
sweetness and smoothness. Although here
agai n, the Australian winemaker's constant
quest for evolution can be seen m the
increasing use of more carefully coopered
barrels of both American and, in some cases,
French oak. Blends, whether inspired by the
Rhone or Iberia, are increasingly popular
Big business
In sheer volume, Barossa is dominated by
the large subs1d1ar1es of even larger global
corporation s . Treasury Wine Estates, for
example, owns Penfolds (which blends its
flagship Grange here from wi nes produced
al l over South Australia), Wolf Blass, and a
host of other brand s . French pastis maker
Pernod Ricard owns the old Orlando, whose
most fa mous brand by far is Jacob's Creek,
named after a trickle near Rowland Flat The
biggest fa mily-owned company, Yal umba, 1s
based m Angaston on the border between
Barossa and Eden valleys, but there are
many others, of varymg sizes These range
from Peter Lehmann, who virtually rescued
the reputation of old-vine Barossa Shiraz
single- handedly m the late 1980s, when
Cabernet was much more fas hionable, down
to a host of ambitious new wave winemakers
keen to exploit the region's pockets of old
vines (Lehmann's company is now part of
the same R1verma-based group as the
extraordinary Yellow Ta ll "value" brand ) The
new guns also love to play with alternative
grape var1et1es. Sp1nifex, Schwarz Wine Co,
and Massena are three particularly notable
members ofa group calling themselves the
Artisans of Barossa, which has a tasting
room at Ta nunda.
There are old Grenache vi nes, too (capable
of even higher alcohols than the Shiraz), and
old Mourvedre, long cal led Mataro "GSM"
blends of both grapes with the ub1qu1tous
Shiraz are popular Sem1llon, some of it
Barossa's unique pink-skinned mutation,
was until recently more common than
Chardonnay and can prod uce stunningly
rich white wines Cabernet Sauvignon can
shine when planted on the most favo ured
dark grey brown soils, but Shiraz Is more
dependable, summer in and summer out,
especially on the clay and limestone soils
of the val ley
The Barossa Grounds proje ct 1• well ab/• to
demonstrate d1fferencN In •01/ between the
valley's variou• •ubreglons, which we can •ure/y
expect to become off
f
clally registered a•
Geographical Indication• before too long

Seppeltsfleld, built of course by the Seppelt
fa mily, was Australia's biggest wmery in
1900. It has been restored as the home of
Barossa Valley's leading collection of
fortified wines, many of them delicious
antiques. This Is the only producer in the
world able to release a 100-year- old wme
every year - albeit by the individual
thimbleful.
Baros
sa
Valley
Eden Valley
Moppa Unof
f
icial subregion
•ll
l!Rr
rAGI!
Notable producer
.lalbum Noted vineyard
� Vineyards
30
0
-
Contour interval 75 metres
T Weather station CWSl
Some of the most ad mired Sh1razes come
from the valley's northwest and central
reaches around Ebenezer, Tan unda, Moppa,
Kalimna, Greenocl<, Marananga, and
Stonewell, where ancient stocks of dry­
fa rmed Shiraz can yield wmes of real
complexity. However; euch a high proportion
of vines is owned by growers, rather than
winemakers, that there is a delicate tension
11
Barossa Valley SOUTH AUSTRALIA • AUST .. ALIA
11
1
1163,50
0
,.--
I
,,/
••.If.
between grape prices and quality. Most of
these ancient vines have been far med all
their hves by the same fa mily, and tend to be
hidden from view of the thousands of
to urists who flood the val l ey every week.
Increas ingly, the names of d1str1cts or
subregions, vineyards, and even growers are
cited on labels as prod ucers seek to tease
out the geographical distinctions within the
·"i
�
wo
;n-
--
11ote
..
.
v.uey
//.
DANDl!IJON
BAROSSA VA LLEY:
URIOOTPA
Latitude / Elevation of WS
- 34.55° / 380ft (116m)
l!Dl!NHAU
J!DENVAWY'IVIN!S
ll
l!ATl
lV
AIJ!
llENSCHl
l!
llUl'l'O
N
VALE
UMNE
PO
O
NAWATrA
llADfOllD
TORZIMAlTl
lEWS
verage growi ng sea on temperature at W
s1.s °F (19.a •ci
verage annual rainfall at WS
19in (484mm)
Harvest month rainf, II al WS
March: 1.4in (25mm)
Principal viticultural hazards
Drought
Principal grape varietie
R : Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvlgnon, Grenache
Noir; W : Chardonnay, Semillon
val ley and articulate its history and heritage
In time, the Barossa Grape and Wine
Assoc1at1on's Barossa Grounds proiect may
result 1n these distinctions being formally
recogn ized as subregions, as High Eden m
the Eden Val ley already is (see overleaf) The
mystery, given the d1vers1ty of wines grown
m the various corners of the valley, 1s why
this has not happened already.
•I•
I•

352
AUSTRALIA • SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Eden Va lley
The Eden Valley Is higher and greener than
Barossa and makes prettier pictures. Its
t
vineyards, planted up to 1,640f't (500 m)
but much more sporadically than on the
valley floor, are scattered among rocky
hills, dusty lanes, country estates, and
eucalyptus groves.
H1stor1cally, though, 1t 1s an eastern
exte nsion of the Barossa Valley. Captain
Joseph Gilbert established the Pewsey Vale
vineyard as early as 1847; the site now belongs
to Yal umba ofAngaston, the fam ily company
f
that has played such an important part 1n
developing Eden Valley's potential for Riesling
D
'
When modern times cal led for table wines
rather than fortified dessert wines, 1t was
Riesling, strangely enough, that Barossa did
best With the Silesian settlers came a
fond ness for the grape, and growers found
that the higher they went into the hills to the
east, the finer and more crisply fruitythe
wine became. In the early 1960s, Colin Gramp
(whose fam ily owned Orlando until 1971) was
inspired by a trip to Germany to devote a
patch of schistous hilltop, which a sheep
wo uld scarcely pause on, to Riesling, he called
1t Steingarten, thereby giving Australian
Riesling a new dimension and proving its
longevity. It 1s now known as Jacob's Creek
Steingarten and can be rivalled by Henschke's
Julius and Peter Lehmann's Wigan Rieslings,
as well as those from Ya lumba's Pewsey Vale.
Eden Valley Riesling at its best has a floral,
sometimes mineral top note to it when
yo ung. Like the Clare Valley Riesling with
which 1t 1s inevitably compared, 1t becomes
increasingly toasty after quite a short time
in the bottle. Eden Valley Riesling loses its
ac 1d1ty fa ster and te nds towards dried
flowers, whereas Clare Val ley Riesling is
characterized more by piercing lime.
Riesling may be important, but Shiraz is
the region's most-planted grape, and the
Henschke fam ily grows some of Australia's
very best examples Mount Edelstone, we ll up
1n the hills, and above all from the Hill ofGrace
vineyard originally planted in 1860. The first
single-vi neyard bottling from the Shiraz vines
grown on halfofthis historic (actually rather
flat) 19-acre (8-ha) site was the 1958 vi ntage
Today, its price can rival that of the iconic, and
notably more concentrated South Australian
blend Penfolds Grange
A new generation - Hobbs, Radford,
Shobbrook, To rzi Matthews, Tin Shed, and
the hke are demonstrating the finesse of
which this high country 1s capable in single­
v1 neyard wines, while many a wine labelled
simply "Baro11a'' (as opposed to "Baroa
a
a
Va lley") owes its vivaciousness to the
add1t1on of an Eden Valley component.
1 217,50
0
KmO
5Km
--
--
--
-.�
Milo
o
O
3Mo1o
o
'IMlelldel
l
\ld���
��
��-
-'•�atA
DANDBUON
l!Dl!NHAL
L
l!Dl!NVJIWIYWINP.S
ll
l!A1
1l\1W!
ll
l!NSCIO
O!
llUITON11\U!
llMNE
PO
ONA1l
l1TA
llADl'ORD
TOIZIMATl'l
ll!WS
I
/
/
.
I.
I
�-·
••
i4:/
�
..
1���v
·
CINTRAL EDEN VA LLIY
This map dovetails with th• Barossa
Val
l
ey map on the previous P&I•
and includes an uncommonly hleh
proportion of noted vineyards, with
1reat red wines made In the north
and 1reat Rleslln1 In the south.
/
'
"'�
\
/
l
I
.J:CTLR >rr ph
•
t�J.
.
Jali:le
."'.
'
..
.
One ofthe "g randfather
vines" lovmgly tended by
the Henschke fa mily in
their fa mous Ht/
/
of
Grace vineyard They
were brought fr om
Europe in the 1860s.
t
--
-
Baros.a V.ll
lly
- Eden YaHey
EHl
l
YllllJ ll
l
llrl
llf
f
H11h Eden
•IRYl
ll
l!
Nol.Ible produc.
•=-" Notedvineyard
V'.neyar
ds
Contour ll'tervel 75 melrll'

Clare Valley
Rlealln1 la even bett•r entrenched In the
prettily pastoral Clare Valley than In th•
Eden Valley. Clare hes well north of the
northernmost limit of Barossa, isolated and
rural but multitalented It has the unique
d1stmct1on ofmaking excellent Shiraz and
Cabernet as well as one of Riesling's great
arc hetypes.
Clare Val ley 1s m fact a series of narrow,
mainly north- south val l eys on an elevated
plateau with very different soil types m
I 250,00
0
�o
w�
i-
-�
��
��i.
..
..�
�-
-�-
-'
Mdo
o
O
• GRC>Sm' Notable pltlductr
ea..
.
Clat
t
NotedVineyard
Vineyards
5Milo
o
�- Con1Durlrtertlj7$11
11*15
NORTHERN AiN9 C•NTRAL
CLARE VALLllV
Given Its lat� :bhla �dn't real ly
make some of1'hll
l
WQ1"fililt
�rl ll ing Riesling
- but it does. Alt� 1'1
11
11ft
tt
�
ll'lneyard
s
are at
1,300-1 ,870f't (400..
..
..
ti).
�
do breezes
off the gulfs to th• we.i:.m IOW'th
each, as revealed by the Clare Valley Rocka
project designed to high light the geological
history of the valley. In the southern
heartland of the region between Watervale
and Auburn, considered classic Riesling
country, 1s some ofthe fa mous limestone­
based terra rossa (see p.357), which yields
perfumed, highly expressive R1eshngs. A few
miles north around Polish Hiii River, notably
m Jeffrey Grosset's reve red Pohsh Hill
vineyard , vines struggle m the hard slate
soils and the wines are more austere and
l o n g- lived . The northern, more open part
of the Clare Val ley fe els warm westerlies
blowing m from the Spencer Gulf, whereas
the southern part, from Watervale south,
enjoys cooler breezes from Gulf St Vincent.
Clare 1s only about a third of the size of
Barossa Val ley, but with its higher altitude
has a more extreme climate. The cool
nights help to preserve ac 1d1ty, m many
vintages ad ding ac id, routine elsewhere,
1s unnecessary. Other specific vineyards
of note are Jim Barry's Fiorita and
Petal uma's Hanlin Hill.
Clare fe els remote. Its prod ucers are proud
to be distant from the infl uence of fas hion
and big company politics. Only Knappstem
and Petal uma, part of Accolade Wines, and
Treasury Wine Estates' Leo Burmg have any
connection with large corporations, which
have tended to close down their Clare
wineries 1n recent years to save money, and
vinify the grapes elsewhe re .
This 1s farm mg country, mostly 1n the hands
of small fa rmers, who form an unusually
SOUTH AUSTRALIA • AUSTIULIA
Il
l
cohesive group. They were the first 1n
Australia to agree to move to screw cap1 to
preserve the steely purity of their R1eshngs
I n the hands of literally dozens of R1eshng
prod ucers as capable as Grosset,
Kllikanoon, and Jim Barry, Clare R1eshng
has established itselfas Austral ia's most
distinctive: firm and dry, sometimes
eye -watering m yo uth, but usually with a
rich undertow of lime that can mature to
toastiness after years in bottle These are
the wines for which Austral ia's fa mous
fu sion food has surely been designed. More
rec ently, a trickle of slightly sweeter styles
of Riesling has emerged to please those
with less masoch1st1c te n dencies.
Great, plummy reds with excellent ac idity
and structure are also made, provoking
discussion as to whether Shiraz or Cabernet
1s Clare's most eloquent dark express ion.
Particularly smooth-talking Cabernets and
Shirazes come from Jim Barry, Kilikanoon,
Ta:ylors, and Tim Adams. From the region's
highest vineyard (at 1,870ft/570 m),
Grosset's perfumed Gaia Bordeaux blend
is a litt le more elegant than most, while the
reds of cult pioneer Wendouree continue
to be pos1t1vely and dist1nct1vely chewable.
One might almost say indestructible.
Early-morning harvest at Pike's Polish Hil
l
.
Machines make sense in parts ofthe world
without a substantial and willing vineyard
labour force, and the timing makes sense
when days are so hot

354
AUSTRALIA • SOUTH AUSTRALIA
McLare n Vale and Beyond
"The Vale" on Adelalde's southern
outskirts has been transformin1 Itself
from semi-industrial viticulture to the
source of some of Australia's finest reds.
Terrolr Extremely varied and particu larly
well-mapped soils, which vary fro m black
clays on the flats near the sea to sandier
soils at the highest point, with clay loams
and sandy loams in the gently hilly districts
in between.
Climate Warm and dry, getting noticeably
warmer and drier. Ocean breezes help.
Grapes R: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon
The Fleurieu Zone, named after the Fleurieu
Peninsula, poi nts southwest from Adelaide,
through Mclaren Vale and Southern Fleur1eu
to Kangaroo Island, now a fas hionable resort
It also extends east to include Langhorne
Creek and Currency Creek (see map, p.344).
Some of the most exciting wines are coming
from its extrem1t1es Jacques Lurton from
Bordeaux has reve rsed the established
flying-wi nemaker pattern here, commuti ng
to Kangaroo Island. And at the highest point
in Southern Fleurieu, Brian Croser, founder
of Petaluma, 1s making some 1mpress1ve
Foggy Hill Pinot No1r at Parawa
But for the moment, by far the most
prominent and h1stor1c wine region in the
Fleurleu Zone 1s McLaren Vale, a popular
tourist destination, but unfortu nately a
v1ct1 m of Adelaide's urban spraw l. John
Raynell, celebrated tod�y by the Reynella
brand, planted South Austral ia's ftrst vines
in 1838 in the Stony Hill vineyard (sold for
housing in 2009) Mclaren Vale can still
boast many old vines, however, some more
than 100 years old. Tintara was bought by
the original Thomas Hardy in 1876, and 1s
today the h1stor1c but much- modernized
showplace winery for Hardys, one of
Australia's biggest wine companies and part
of Accolade Wines . Grapes and must are
shipped in fro m as far away as Tas mania.
Getting warmer
The local climate could hardly be better for
the vine than in this coastal region, a narrow
band between the heights of the Sellicks Hill
Range andthe temperate ocean . Thanks to
warm nights and even warmer days, tannins
here tend to be notably soft.
During the long, warm growing season
proximity to the sea provides the region's
greatest asset : zero frost risk. About 20%
of vineyards survive without the irrigation
water that 1s in increasingly short supply.
The ocean supplies some cooling infl uence,
in the form of afternoon breezes that keep
the wines reasonably fresh, even 1fthe
diurnal temperat ure var1at1on 1s minimal.
In the highest northern part of Mclaren
Va le around Blewitt Sprmgs, d eep sandy
soils over clay can produce sophisticated,
aro matic, spicy Grenache and Shiraz. With
its greater diurnal temperature range,
Kangar1lla to the east produces rather
more delicate Shiraz than the Mclaren
Vale norm. The area north of the township
ofMclaren Vale 1tself has some ofthe
thinnest topsoil, resulting in low yields and
intense flavours . Willunga, lying to the
south ofthe town, fe els less ofthe ocean
and ripens its grapes later. Overal l,
harvesting begms in February and may
contmue well into April for some of the
classic Grenache and Mourvedre vines,
although picking dates have been gett mg
earlier and earlier
Mclaren Vale was always a red wine
region and 1s definitively so today, although
a couple of white wine grapes, F1ano and
Vermentino, are thriving here as part of a
determined move to experiment with
Densely purple Nero d'Avolajwce flows through
the slats ofKay Brothers ' ancient Celestial &
Coq basket press, first used for the 1928
vintage m a press house that dates fr om 1912.

Italian var1et1es that retain their ac 1d1ty
well in hot climates. As fo r Chardon nay and
Sauvlgnon Blanc, the cooler neighbouring
Adelaide Hills 1s much more suitable.
There 1s a confidence in McLaren Vale's
glossily seductive reds, with old-v ine Shiraz,
Cabernet Sauv1gnon, and then increas ingly
fa shionable Grenache its clear stre ngths
Chapel Hill, d'Arenberg, Hugh Hamilton,
Paxton, Sam uel's Gorge, SC Pannell,
Uhthorne, Wlrra W1rra, and Jackson Fam ily
Wines' organic Yangarra Estate all make
good exam ples Cor1ole, Kangar1lla Road, and
Primo Estate demonstrated quite some time
ago that the palette of var1et1es could be
widened to include at least Sang1ovese,
Nebb1olo, and Pr1mit1vo (also known as
Zmfan del). Iberian grapes are showing great
promise, too, especially Te mpranillo at
Sam uel's Gorge, W1llunga 100, and Gemtree
Estate, while Georgia's Saperav1 and Italy's
Sagranti no are especially val ued for their
high ac 1d 1ty. Far- sighted producers such as
Stephen Pannell, who at Tmhns winery makes
vast quant1t1es of commercial wines sold m
bu lk to big companies m add1t1on to his own
handcrafted botthngs, believe the future hes
in vine varieties that have already proved
we ll-suited to a Mediterranean c limate.
At least 80 wineries are based here,
although some of the fruit is plundered by
others - some even as far afield as the
Hunter Val ley - to add plump ballast to
blends. In the past, when Austral ia's
inter-regional blends were even more
common than today, blenders used to call
McLaren Vale "the middle palate of
Australian wine" . Its Shiraz 1s said to
contribute a mocha and warm- earth
character; others detect savoury black
olive and leather notes.
Soft and succulent
It could easily be argued that Langhorne
Creek 1s South Australian wine's big
secret . Less than a fifth of the wine made
here 1s sold with the region's name on the
label, even though 1t 1s as prod uctive as
McLare n Vale. Most of its wine disappears
into the blends put together by the big
companies keen to take ad vantage of the
region's strengt hs. soft, gentle, m outh ­
filling Shiraz and succulent Cabe rnet
Sauv1gnon . Original ly, this fe rtile bed of
deep al luvium was 1rr1gated by deliberate
late -winter flooding from the diverted
Bremer and Angas rivers, an unreliable
water supply that limited expansion It has
only been since the early 1990s, when
licences were granted to transport
irr1gat1on water fr om Lake Alexandrina, at
the mouth of the mighty Murray River, that
Langhorne Creek has seen rapid developme nt.
The older vines tend to be close to the
riverbanks. They includethe fam ous Metala
Mclaren Va le and Beyond SOUTH AUSTRALIA • AUST.. ALIA
HI
•
(N;r
I
.
.
I�
,�'
I
Mclaren Vale
Adelaide Hills
Southern Fleurieu
• MITOW Notable producer
Vineyards
-� - Contour Interval
75 metres
vineyard , owned by the Adams fam ily of
Brothers m Arms since 1891, and those
planted by Frank Potts at Bleasdale once he
had fe lled the titan ic red gums growing by
the Bremer River. But ambitious new
plantings such as those of Angas Vineyards
pipe water to their high -tech 1rr1gat 1on
systems via a complex network of ditches on
the pancake-flat land
The so called Lake Doctor, a reliably
cooling afte rnoon breeze off the lake, slows
ripening here so that grapes are usually
I•
MCLAREN VALIE
Soil types and topo1raphy vary
enormously, and with them wine quality
and style Producers here are makin1 a
concerted ef'fort to explore th81e differencH
throu1h their Scarce Earth project,
highlighting the 1eographical variability
of Mclaren Vale Shiraz
(
The Kay
fa mily have
been on the
Amery property
continuously smce
1891 and have
meticulous records
that show them
planting Shiraz,
Riesling, and Cabernet
later thatyear
Australian wine
tradition at its best.
1 237,00
0
�o
w�
1- �����..
..
..
���..-�-'
Mi
i.
0
picked two weeks later than those of
McLaren Vale.
Most of Currency Creek to the
1mmed1ate west is sandy and fl at ,
dependent on 1rr1gat1on from Lake
Alexandrina Slightly warmer than
Langhorne Creek, but even more mar1t1me,
it is so far the domain of small, re latively
low- p rofi le wineries. Withm 1t 1s the hilly
unofficial subregion Finmss River, where
the Austrian-based Salomon fam ily are
making some fine reds .
•I
c
o

358
AUSTRALIA • SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide Hills
When Adelaide warms up in the summer
there is always somewhere nearby to cool
f
off: the Mount Lofty Ranges just east of
the city. Clouds from the west collect here
over green hills The southern tip of the
Adelaide Hills region may skirt the
northeastern boundary of McLaren Vale but
they are worlds apart. Adelaide Hills is one
ofAustralia's liveliest wine regions and a hub
of natural wmemakmg, especially around the
town of Basket Range. It was the first
Australian region to establish a reputation
t
for re liably citrus-fre sh Sauv1gnon Blanc -
now the area's lead variety, closely followed
by Chardonnay The 1,300ft (400 m) contour
line provides the boundary ofthe
appellation, except to the north. At
elevations above this, grey mist 1s
c
0
D
l
common, as is spring fro st, and chilly
nights, even in summer Rainfall is
relatively high, but concentrated in
wi nter Generalizations are difficult,
however, about a wine region that
stretches 50 miles (80 km) from
northeast to southwest.
The Piccadilly Valley on
Mount Lofty was origi nally
staked out in the 1970s by Brian
Croser, founder of Petal uma,
as a defiantly cool area for
Chardonnay vines, then a novelty
in Australia. These days, the region
has around 90 wi neries, and many
more growers who supply prod ucers
big and small
Pinot Noir is the lead red variety in the
Adelaide Hills, and producers such as
Ashton Hills, Grosset, Henschke, Lucy
Margaux, Penfolds, and Shaw + Smith have
made competent examples. Te mpran illo
and Italian var1et1es, especially Nebbiolo,
show promise.
Chardonnays fr om Bird in Hand, Shaw +
Smith, Sidewood, and Ta panappa, can
demonstrate brisk nectarine flavours and
real prec ision. Producers such as Henschke,
Pike & Joyce, and The Lane make equally
precise aromatic wines from Vlognier and
P1not Gris. Pioneered by Hahndorf H1ll,
Gruner Veltl iner has made its Austral ian
home in the Hills, where there are as many
as 30 prod ucers. Riesling clearly thrives
here, too.
Piccadilly Valley and Lenawood are the only
two 01'1'1c 1al subregions to date, but many
locals consider that Basket Range,
B1rdwood, Charleston, Echunga, Hahndorf,
Kultpo, Macc lesfield, Mount Barker,
Paracombe, and Woodside all have
d11cern lble and dlst1nct1ve characteristics.
Hold on for more.
•I•
I 237,00
0
�o
��
,_
_�
��
��"
"-�
��.
..
..
.-�
�
Ml
lo
o
O
SOUTHWEST ADELAIDE HILLS
Only th• 1outhwe1tern corner of the Adelaide
Hills 11 mapped in detail here. To the north,
vineyards around Gurner.cha are warm enou1h
to ripen Cabernet Sauvlgnon, and some
particularly Rh6ne-flk• Shiraz comes from
Mount Barker, southeast of Stirlln1.
•I•
--
-
Adelaide Hiiis
--
-
Mclaren Vale
Ad1l1ld1 Hiils subrqions
Plccadllly Valley
Lenswo
ocl
•Ti
ii!
LANI! Notable producer
e ners Noted vineyard
Vineyards
JO
O
Contour interval
75 metres
..
.
Weather station (WS)
ADELAIDE HILLS: LENSWOOD l'
La titude / Elevation ofWS
· 35.06° / 1,191ft (363m)
Ave rage grow ing seaso n temp rat un• ,11 W '
63.2'F (17.3°C)
Ave rage annual ra infall nl WS
28 111 (717mm)
Hm-vcbt month ru111 fall at \ S
April: 1.9in (49 mm)
J'rin 1pal v1 t1 ulturnl hdlard�
Poor fruit sot, spr ng frost
Principal l/:t :l[1C' \llfl<'lll''>
R: Ponot Noor, Sh iraz; W• Sauvognon Bl nc,
Chard onnay, Ponot Gris/Gr1g10, Rio long

Coonawarra
Th• story ofCo
on
awarralatoa,.,.,.
extent th• story oft•rra ro•••· Indeed, thla
soiltypehascleftnedthe,.
..i
on•• hotly
contested bordera. As fa r back as the 1860s,
early settlers became aware of a very odd
patch of ground 250 miles (400 km) south of
Adelaide Just north of the village of Pe nola,
a long, narrow rectangle, only 9 miles by less
than one (15 by 1.5km), of completely level soil
1s d1stinct1vely red m colour and crumbly to
touc h . Below hes pure, free-draining limestone
and, beneath that, a permanent table of
relatively pure water. No land could be better
designed fo r fruit-growing. The entrepreneur
John R1ddoch started the PenolaFruit Colony,
and by 1900 the area, under the name of
Coonawarra, was prod ucing large quant1t1es of
an unfamiliar kind of wme, largely Shiraz, but
brisk and fru ity with moderate alcoh ol: not
unlike Bordeaux, in fa ct
This great resource, an Austral ian vineyard
prod ucing wines with a structure quite
dlfferent from most, was for a long time
appreciated by very few. Only with the table
wi ne boom m the 1960s was its potential fu lly
realized, and the big names ofthe wine
Industry began to move m . Wynnsis by far
the largest single winemaking landowner,
although the conglomerate that owns 1t,
Treasury Wine Estates, controls a good half
ofall the vineyard through its other labels,
Pe nfolds and Lmdeman's . Partly as a result,
considerable amounts ofCoonawarra fruit
end up m wines blended and bottled many
miles away. Such producers as Balnaves,
Bowen, Holhck, Katnook, Leconfleld, MaJella,
Parker, Penley, Petal uma, Rym ill, and Zema
on the other hand offer something much
closer to the estate model.
A wi nning combination
Shiraz may have been the original Coonawarra
spec1ahty, but since M1ldara demonstrated m
the early 1960s that cond1t1ons were close to
ideal for Cabernet Sauv1gnon, Coonawarra
'
SOUTHI
Notlble
•ll\'MIU. producer
AUSTRALIA •
!3
I�
•::-i.e::=rd
COOA
WRA
.
I
1100,00
0
60
Vineyards
Contour lntel'Vl
l
l
10 metres
Limit of terra
rosu soil
Weather station
(WSJ
COONAWARRA: COONAWARRA T
La titude / Elevnt:ion ofWS
- 37.75° / 207ft (63m)
Ave rage grow ing season t e mpera ture at WS
61.9°F (16.6°C)
Average annual rainfall at WS
23in (576 mm)
Harvest month rainfall at WS
April: 1.4in (35mm)
Principal viticultural hazards
Underrlpeness, spring fr ost, harvest rainfall
Principal grape varieties
R: Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot;
W : Chardonnay
Cabernet has been one ofAustralia's
remarkably few touchstone combinations
of variety and place. Smee almost six vines
in every 10 m Coonawarra are Cabernet
Sauvignon, the fo rtunes ofCoonawarra have
tended to rise and more recently fa ll with the
popularity ofthe grape
Coonawarra's soil was not the only reason
for this marriage apparently made in heaven.
The area is considerably fu rther south, hence
cooler, than any other South Australian wine
region, and only 50 miles (80km) from an
exposed coast, washed by the Antarctic
cu rrents and fa nned by westerlies all summer.
Frost 1s a problem m spring and rai n at
SOUTH AUSTRALIA • AUSTftALIA
HT
vintage time - enough to make a French
grower quite nostalgic. Indeed, Coonawarra is
cooler than Bordeaux, and sprinkler irrigat ion
is used to counter the threat offrost. That
said, tn the recent run of dry seasons most
producers have had to introd uce some form
of supplementary irr1gat1on. lfthe will is there,
vigour can be fine-tuned on terra rossa, unhke
the damper rendzma soils to the west
In the 1990s, at the height of Cabernet
worship, Coonawarra's total vineyard area
more than doubled and the region's isolation
and sparse population meant that many vines
were pruned, or at least pre-pruned, and
picked mechanically. But in recent years,
teams ofvmeyard workers, often Asian, are a
much more common sight, and the wines have
improved as a result. At least 22 cellar doors
are val iantly aimed at such tourists as make it
this far south.
Wy nns is the b.st-known ofthe region's
wineries, of which there are a mere 18 - four
fe wer than the number ofcellar doors.•
E
T
f
..

Victoria
In many ways Victoria is the most
interesting, the most dynamic, and
certainly the most varied of Australia's
wine states. In the 19th century, it was
also the country's most important source
of wine - it had as much vineyard as New
South Wales and South Australia combined.
The gold rush of the 1850s and '60s
doubled the population of Australia In 10
years and spurred on its infant wine industry
(Just as 1t had done in Cal ifornia) But then
phylloxera arrived in the 1870s and was
fa tal ly destructive. Today, V1ctor1a prod uces
less than half as much wine as South
Australia (which has never known phylloxera),
even 1f V1ctor1a has almost twice as many
w1ner1es - 800 of them scattered
throughout its 20 official regions. Most are
pretty small; as many as 600 sell direct to
the public from their cellar doors.
The state 1s the smallest and coolest on the
Austral ian mainland, but 1t can boast the
most diverse cond1t1ons for vine growing.
They range from the arid, heavily 1rr1gated
Inland Murray Darling region around M1ldura,
which straddles the V1ctor1a New South
Wales border and grows 75% of all Victorian
grapH by vo lume, to the mainland's coolest
wine re11on 1
North East Victoria
The most important survivor of phylloxera,
however, was the incontrove rtibly hot
North East V1cto r1a Zone. Rutherglen and,
to a lesser extent, Glenrowan continue
to specialize in fortified dessert wines
(see panel on p 360), but they also produce
some truly boot- strappi ng reds, with
the Rhone vine variety Dur1f a spec1ahty
of Rutherglen.
Also in this corner of the state are three
much higher, cooler wine regions - King
Valley, Alpine Va lleys, and Beechworth -
all of potential interest to skiers as they
head hopefully towards the snowfi elds of
the Great D1v1ding Range. The fa mily owned
Brown Brothers of Milawa 1s by far the
dominant company of Kini Valley
Its flags hip sparkling wine, Patr1c1a, 1s
a blend of Pinot No1r and Chardonnay
sourced from vineyards on the cool - climate
Wh1tlands high plateau Brown Brothers
was also one of the first 1n Au stralia to
experiment with alternative grape varieties.
Italian grapes have become a particular
spec1ahty here, largely thanks to the
p1oneer1ng work of the P1zzin1 fa mily
Prosecco pioneer Dal Zotto has a s1m1lar
Italian heritage, as does R1ve rina based
De Bortoh, which sources its Bella Riva
wines from a s i ngle vineyard here
Many of the e prod ucers source grapes in
the Alpine Valleys region, whose vineyards
The conical hats on pickers at Pmot and
Chardonnay spec1al1st Bmd1 in the cool
Macedon Ranges are typical of vmeyard
workers m Australia today. the tm shed more
typical ofAustralia yesterday.
range from 590 to 1,970ft (180 to 600 m)
It, too, has more than a smattering of ltahan
and other alternative var1et1es. Gapsted
1s the label of the V1ctor1an Alps Wine
Company, a contract winery much used
by companies outside the region - not
least because this region 1s still plagued
by phylloxera.
At rather lower altitudes, around the
h1stor1c gold- m i ning town of Beechworth,
some renowned Chardonnay 1s made by
G1ac onda, fa mous also for Shiraz and Pinot
No1r Castagna spec1ahzes in the popular
Australi an combination of Shiraz with
V1ogn ier seasoning and exotic- tasting Italian
var1et1es Some gloriously intense grapes,
including some unusual Gamay, are irown at
Sorrenberg, one of the first of the modern
wave of vineyards that still cover only a tiny
frac tion of the area planted in the early 19th
century Newer producers of special note
are Fighting Gully Road, run by ex·Brown
Bros v1t1culturlst Mark Walpole, Domenica,
V1gnerons Sc hmol zer & Brown, and A Rodda
run by Chardonnay spec1ahst Adri an Rodda
who used to make the wine at Oakridge 1n
Yarra Valley Beechworth a obvious virtues

1 2,00
0
00
0
�o
"
�
n
��
i-
-
�
�
..
..
.
..
..
..
�
..
..
..
..
..
.
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
.
..
..
..
�__.
MAlo
o
0
The fam ous Seppelt cellars - a mile long and
excavated by out-of-work gold miners over a
century ago - have sadly been mothballed by
their new corporate owner. Now there's only
a cellar door.
have also attracted Brokenwood of the
Hunter VaUey and Gary Mills of Yarra
Valley-based Jamsheed.
Wutern Victoria
l.tke the North East wme country, Great
Western, the district made fam ous by
Sel)pelt's "champagne", neve r gave up. It 1s
now a subregion within the Grampians
region, which lies 1,100ft (335 m) up at the
westernmost end ofthe Great Dividing
Range, on granite- rich soil. Seppelt and
Best's, a miniature by comparison, each
have a long record of producing spicy,
I•
»­
Pyramid
Hill
j
�1omo
�
•TAHBl
lJ[
.Milda
c:
::
::=J
C=:
:J
Oil]
361
State boundary
Geographical lnd1catton (GI)
Notable producer
Noted vineyard
Area with vines
Landabove60
0
metres
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
long-ageing S,h1raz. The Seppelt wmery has
been closed by its new owners, Treas ury
Wine Estates, so t�e classic stlll and
sparkling Sh1razes grown on the original
vmeyards have to be vinified elsewhere
Mount Langi Gh1ran's authoritatively
peppery Shiraz eloquently explains why the
trad ition 1s worth carrying on.
PyreneH is the (ironic?) name of the rol ling
landscape to the east of the Grampians.
This region is not notably cool (except
sometimes at night) and its showpiece wi nes
are b ig reds from Ta ltarnl and Dalwhmme,
which has also made a fine Chardonnay.
I•
VICTORIA AUITNALIA
Mt
Il
ly
loproHclrs
Be
ec
hv.orlh
1 FIGHTINGGUW'ROAD
2 VIGNl!l
lONS
SCHMOIZEI
ABROWN
Htol
lh
COle
1MUNARI
2PAVLOSiaA
3jASl'l!l
l
HDJ.IOC
CAM
'S llAWR
•DOWNINGl!STA1'l
l
"
t
(ty
i�1VIN!IY
Ii
CENTRAL VICTORIA
7HEA1
1
1COTBl!STA1'l
l
I'l
l'IU>
DUaCRl!l!I
'll
l!Dl
l5DALI!
l!STA1'l
l
Just the look of all these wine regions is
exciting enough. This 1s clearly a state with
great variation today, but 1t also has a
glorious wine-producing past . Partly thanks
to the 19th-century gold rush, 1t was at one
time Australia's leading wine state. Then
came phylloxera...
Henty, the third region ofthe Western
Victoria zone, has forged its reputation on
wines from the cool, maritime, marginal
south. Seppelt pioneered the region, calhng
1t Drumborg, and was attimes tempted to
give up, but chmate change has worked m
Henty's fa vour Crawford River, planted in
1975 by a grazier, adds to Seppelt Drumborg
Riesling's claim to providmg some of the
country's finest, most ageworthy Rieslings.
Further north and warmer - 60 miles
(100km) inland around Hamilton/Tarrington
- is a cluste r of boutique wineries p roducing
mamly cool-climate Shiraz, although
D
T
E
T
F
o

380
AUST.. ALIA · VICT ORIA
Ta rrington Vineyards has demonstrated
extraordinary devotion to burgu nd1an
var1et1es .
Central Victoria
Inland, Bendl&o in the Central V1ctor1a Zone
1s even warmer. Balgownie's sumptuous re ds
launched the region in the 1970s Then
Jasper Hill and others showed what could be
done in fas hionable Heathcote's slightly
cooler country to the east, especially on its
own special red Cambrian soi ls. The region
1s re nowned for hauntingly rich but iu1cy
Shiraz, although Greenstone, based in the
Yarra Val l ey, has shown that Heathcote
Sang1ovese, using selected Tuscan clones,
can be remarkably refi ned. Also in this zone
is the extensive and long-established
Goulburn Valley, where Box Grove,
M1tchelton, and Tah bilk, once the sole
survivor of the region, cluster in the fa r
south The special qualities here have earned
1t the status of a subregion called Nagamb1e
Lakes, where, belying its name, a shortage of
water 1s perennial Rhone grapes (Marsan ne
in particular) thrive at Mitchelton and at
Tah b1lk, a fa mily fa rm old enough to be classed
as a national monument. It still has Shiraz
that was planted in 1860 and what are
reputedly the world's oldest Marsanne vines.
The memorably named Strathbogie
Ranges makes fine, taut Rieslings such as
those of Fo wles and Yarra Val ley-based Mac
Forbes. The region includes some extensive
vineyard s at up to 1,970ft (600m), where
ac 1d1t1es are so high that Domaine Chandon
grows Pinot No1r and Chardonnay here as
base wines for fizz.
Port Phillip and Glppsland
The Port Phillip Zone is now the name for the
regi ons clustered around the epicurean city
of Melbourne. The Mornington Peninsula to
the south and Yarra Val ley to the east are
considered separately overleaf, but the
long-established Sunbury, on the plains just
north of Melbourne ai rport, 1s even closer
to the city centre than either. Its standard­
bearer has long been Cra1glee, whose
particular style of defiantly dry Shiraz has
for decades remained ad mirably constant,
savoury, and long- lived .
North of Sunbury, towards Bendigo, hes the
Macedon Ranges, which encompasses some
of Australia's coolest, not to say pos1t1vely
chilly, vine-growing cond1t1ons. Bind1's efforts
near G1sborne and Curly Flat's near
Lancefield show that this 1s seriously fine
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir country
Pinot No1r 1s also the grape of choice
for many growers in Victoria's new coastal
wine regions, particularly in the barren,
wi ndy wine country of Geelong, where
mar1t1me infl uence 1s param ount. By Farr,
Bannockburn, Lethbr1dge, and Clyde Park
ripen hefty P1 not northwest of the town of
Geelong in the Moorabool Valley. The
Bellarine Peninsula, south of Geelong,
TRULY IT ICKV
The exceptionally sweet , s t ron g, wood- aged wine>
of Ruthcrglen nrc quite unlike anything produced
Jnyw herc c l&e , exLepl fo1 lhO>C made in
neighbouring Glcn1owa11 l o n g with Hunter
c111 1llon , lhey cons l1t ut c one ofAu>lruha's most
orig11
1
a l gift -; lo the world of wine, although they
arc not al w,1y;, ,1pprccwtcd a� such byAu<,lralian
w1nl' drtnkc1 '
Mai keel ddfcrcnce., between day - and 11 1 1-(h t time
lt· mpl• rn t ure and Joni!. dr autumn;, a1 e the
'cc1 cl to the-;c f,11nou;, u.,traliun " l 1t k1c;",
wh1th hl• 1w l1l fmm lhc w untr; ' l ongest hnrvc!.L
Tht ll1 '1J Ofll;y are h:t<;l·d on n11,i ucd <lu rk !.k inne<l
1 u'l•tl g1 .ipc•., gro\� 11 111 bak111g ..,u nsh 1 ne St1tk1c'
l,1bl lkd To p,1quc an• ln1.,cd on the Mu,t.idellc
gr,1pt ol <.,,n1l�rnc., und Jk 1 gerac After e.ir� of
Sulphur-crested cockatoos presumably pose a
threat to ripe Ries/mg grapes on vmes planted
as long ago as 1975 at Mount Langi Gh1ran. The
vines in the background comprise the vm eyard's
Old Block Cabernet - Rteslmg and Cabernet
bemg unlikely neighbours outside Australia.
is much more maritime than the Moorabool,
although also on limestone and basalt. Leura
Park, Oakdene, and Scotchmans Hill are its
leading exponents. Shadowfax is another
amb1t1ous winery on the western edge of
Melbourne which buys fr uit in this region and
from Macedon Ranges.
Finally, Gippsland , so big 1t is both a zone
and a region that stretches far offthe map
to the east (see p.344), contains another
vast array of different environments - so
many that the region 1s ripe for subd1v1slon.
The wine with the longest track record 1s
Bass Phillip's 1diosyncrat 1c Pinot No1r, grown
iust south of Leongat ha, but Wilham (Bill)
Downie 1s also proving definitively that this
1s Pinot country
ageing in old woo den a'ks under hot Lin roofs.
they can acl11eve asloni hingly silky richnc s<,
Rutherglen Muscat� labelled la»K should t.i.ll'
about 10 years o ld, Rnre more than 20 y ear, , with
G1and about halfway Il
l
bet wc<'n . Some prod111 c• r .,
opera! n olera s ., t cm, topping up the uncient
bJrrels with oungcr wine, w l11lc other� 111.1ke u
frc'h blend ver <' ar
These arc wines to drmk lightly chilled !h ,oon
after bolll111g n po.,.,iblc lo keep ' 01m• ln•,hne.,,
to cou nteract the sugai tl1.1l 111ay 111Jk up ,1, lll lll h
ns a quart<•r ofthevolume E\enexampit.., h• .,
sweet llwn tl11s c 1n unu,,uall . .. 1.111d up tu
t hoLol .t tt• if not till' <:ontt'rI1' of dlnll'l

Morn1n1ton Pen insula VICT ORIA • AUIT.. ALIA
M1
Morn i ngton Peninsula
Soils vary considerably and Include the red
vo lcanic soils of Red Hill, the sedimentary
yellow duplex of Tu erong, brown duplex
In alt•rnat• y•ars (201 9 is on•) th•
Mornlncton Pe ninsula, In lush stud
country south of Melbourn•, hosts a Plnot
Celebration. For obvious reasons, several
of Burgundy's better wine producers are
usually invited . They tend to arrive in
Australia's greatest concentration of
Pinot Noir vineyard s sceptical and leave
impressed.
It 1s difficult to think of any of the world's
mushroommg hotbeds of Pinot Noir
production that are quite as mar1t1me as
the Mornington Pen insula. It enjoys almost
constant breezes, whether from the
northwest over Port Ph1lhp Bay or cooler
winds from the southeast offthe Southern
Ocean But these seem to serve merely as
heat moderators rather than 1mbu1ng the
wines with any obviously marine flavours
Indeed, the locals say that what determines
ripeness and p1ckmg dates 1s much less likely
to be the elevation of a specific vineyard than
its preva1hng winds
Summers are (usually) mild with mean
January temperat ures less than 68°F (20°C)
- cooler than mean July temperat ures m
Burgundy - although there are occasional
heat spikes that can mfhct sunburn on the
delicate Pinot grapes. And Morningto n
Peninsula 1s far from immune from climate
change; harvest, generally m early March, 1s
a fu ll four weeks earl ier than it used to be.
Some locals worry that even this region may
eventually become too hot for the red
burgundy grape.
Fine fo od, fine art, fine wine
Vines have been grown on the peninsula
since 1886, and in 1891, 14 grape-growers
were mentioned maroyal commission into
the fruit and vegetable industry. The modern
wine scene dates from the early 1970s and
the modern pioneers include Mam Ridge,
Moorooduc, Paringa, and Stonier, now part
of Accolade Wines . Other old hands, al l
intensely involved in improving quality and
promoting the region, include Eldridge,
Kooyong, and Ten Minutes by Tractor, but
there has been no shortage of newer talent
such as Tom Carson's highly regarded Yabby
Lake and Sam Coverdale's Polperro.
Unusually for Australia, there Is no
contract winery m this lush pastoral
landscape, dotted with grand houses and
estates built by well-heeled M elbournites.
Instead, a good 60 of the 200-p lus growers
follow the Burgundy model of growi ng their
own vines and making their own wme An
intense level of hands-on involvement 1s
encouraged by the fact that two-thirds of
wine estates are less than 10 acres (4 ha)
ll
Because the area 1s so close to Melbourne,
there are more than 50 cellar doors and, this
being Melbourne, many ofthese wineries
have fine restaurants and/or art gal leries
attac hed - most notably Pt Leo's sculpture
park, which rivals TarraWarra's outstanding
art gal lery m the Yarra. About a third of all
Mornmgton Peninsula wme 1s sold at the
cellar door Too little of 1t is exported .
Mornlngton•s signature 1rape
Total vineyard plantings doubled between
1996 and 2008 but fu rther expansion has
been curtai led by the high cost of land so
close to Melbourne. This has deterred
Austral ia's determinedly experimental new
wave winemakers from moving m, so
Mornington remai ns devoted to a handful
ofclassic grape varieti es . Pmot No1r has
definitively been crowned the signature
grape, and accounts for almost half of its
vines. Chard onnay (some of which 1s very
fine) accounts for about 25%, while
fa shionable Pmot Gr1s/Gr1g10 makes up
al most 20% of plantmgs. (The Yarra Valley
produces three times as much Pinot No1r as
Mornington, even 1f in the much larger - and
cheaper - Yarra, Pmot 1s not as dominant.)
• PARINGA Notable producer
L=
=i
Vineyards
-2:;o- Contour interval 50 metres
VICTORIA
Port Phillip
Bay
Cape Schanck
of Merr1cks, and the sandier clay loam of
Moorooduc
The MV6 clone of Pmot No1r, Australia's
most common, is a selection of vines
Imported by James Busby, which are
believed to have been sourced from Clos de
Vougeot MV6 has played an important part
1n the Mornington Peninsula, although newer
burgu nd1an clones are now increasingly
planted, too.
The most notable feat ure of Mornington
Peninsula Pmot Noir is its refreshing ac idity
and purity. Very few wines are especially
deep-coloured nor particularly potent, but
they are ge nerally very pretty without being
light. Wines, whether Pmot No1r, Pinot Gris
(which T'Gallant pioneered m Australia here),
or Chardonnay, have crystalline, well-defined
structure and no excess of body· just the
sort of wme fas hion 1s favo uring. For much of
the late 20th century, Mornington Peninsula
was a sort of playground for Melbournites
who liked to get their fingers sticky with
grape Juice, but as vines have matu red and
the people growing them have been sucked
into the absorbing minutiae of wine culture,
qual ity has perceptibly risen Now this 1s one
of Austral ia's most reward ing sou rces of
handcrafted wine
1 440,00
0
elbourne
•
-<0
I
KmO
l-----
..
.,.
..
.
--'
10
_
__
__,
""
""
"'.
__
_.
20Km
Milo
o
O
10-
I
ii•
•I•
c
0
F
o

Ya rra Valley
One of the few possible generalizations
about Victoria's most important quality
wine region is that generalizations don't
work. Some vineyards are close to sea
level, others, particularly some of the
more recently planted ones, are at almost
1,640ft (500m). The landscape with its
gu llies, fo lds, hillsides, and valley floors
undulates so unpredictably that vineyards
face all points of the compass.
Te rrolr Wildly varied but very generally
poor, we ll·drained grey loams with sand
and clay In the north and deep, fe rt ile, red
volcanic soils in the south with extreme
var1at1on in aspect and elevation.
Cllmate War mer than Burgundy, cooler
than Bordeaux and the Australian norm
overall, with wet winters and fa irly dry,
re latively cool summers and moderate
diurnal temperature variation.
Grape varieties R: Pinot Nolr, Shiraz,
Cabernet Sauvl1non; W· Chardonnay,
Plnot Gr1s/Gr11lo
V1ctor1a'1 first vineyard was planted at Ye rlng
Station In 1838 (in the centre ofthe map
opposite) A ne11hbour1ng sheep and cattle
1tation, Yer1n1ber1, run from an atmospheric
homestead that has been in the de Pury
fa mily for five ge nerations, boasts a 150-year
history of winemaking But phylloxera and
the fa shion fo r fortified rather than table
wines extinguished vine-grow ing and wine
prod uction for much ofthe 20th century.
The rebi rth of the val ley as a wine region
dates from the 1960s, when the customary
clutch of doctors fa natical about wine
arrived Drs Carrod us at Yarra Ye ri ng,
Middleton at Mount Mary, and McMahon at
Seville Estate set impeccable standards,
albe it on a tiny scale, and until the 1980s
the valley's reputation rested on its
deceptively si lky, ageworthy Bordeaux
blends and, in the case of Yar ra Ye ring, a
firm, long-lasting RhOne- like blend called
prosaical ly Dry Red No 2, to d1st1ngu1sh
1t from the Bordela1s No 1
Those who followed included David Lance
at Diamond Val ley (whose vineyard i s now
run by his son James under the name
PUNCH) and the wine writer J am es
Halliday at Coldstream Hills (now owned
by Treas ury Wine Estate s), both fired w ith
the desire to grow Austral ia's first great
Pinot No1r Tod ay, the region is most read ily
associated with Pinot No1r and Chardonnay
That Coldstream Hills, practical ly next
door to Yarra Ye ring but ove rlooking It,
produces such fi n e versions of the
Wme tourists fr om nearby Melbourne doorstep
enjoy a bird's-eye view of an atypically wet and
green Ya rra Valley.
Burgundy grapes 1s iust one example
ofthe extre me variabil ity of conditions
in the valley.
Burgu ndian grapes
Pinot Noir 1s clearly one of the Yarra Val ley's
strongest suits, and now accounts fo r about
a third of all plantings . However, the valley
1s arguably even better known for its
Chard onnays, planted on about a quarter
of the total vineyard area, having pioneered
Australia's more refi ned, occasionally
austere style, thanks to the naturally cool
cond1t1ons in the elevated, southern end of
the valley south of "the Warb1ep (the B380
Warburton Highway that runs east through
Yarra Junction)
Sites above the highway, such as Lusatla
Park, can even produce particularly nervy,
ageworthy Sauvigno n Blanc These u pper
slopes are certai nly cool, especially at ni&ht,
and most of the valley enjoys fairly cool
nights, while the influence of the nearby
Southern Ocean tends to even out the
differences between day and night
temperat ures
Most of the oldest vineyards were planted
on the grey sandy and clay loams of the valley
fl oor on either side of the B360 hl&hway
through Healesvl lle where su mmers can be
relatively warm althou1h there are pockets

of cooler terrain, particularly at higher
altitudes Vinea have also been planted
arou nd Yarra Glen and Dixons Creek, but the
coo lest spots tend to be In the Upper Yarra
In the south around Seville and Hoddles
Creek. The vivid red vo lcanic earth here is
so fe rt ile that enormous mountain ashes
(Eucalyptus regnans) tower above the
blue- leaved wattle along the creeks
Annual rai nfall ls relatively high (see the key
fa cts panel below) but most of 1t fa lls in the
winter and s pring. On the rapidly drai ning
loams 1rr1gat 1on can be essential 1n summer,
and a recent run of drought years has been
drier than the figures suggest - the Yarra
Valley has been affected by serious
drought as much as any other
Austral ian wine region. In February
2009, the undergrowth in the valley
was so dry that the valley was
devastated by bushfires on
so-called Black Saturday, with
considerable loss of hfe and
damage to vineyard s. Australian
wine scientists have become
experts on the effects of smoke
tai nt on grapes and wine.
New wavers
The Yarra Val ley may be on
Melbourne's northeastern
doorstep but land prices are
much friendlier than those of
Mornington Peninsula to the
south ofthe city, so the Yarra has
become quite a playground for
yo ung wine producers. "Alternative"
varieties, amphorae, skin-contact
wh ites, natural and not-so- natural
wines, and southern hemisphere ripostes
to a wealth of European archetypes
abou nd. Many of their makers are
determined to express the particular
character1st1cs of the vineyard responsible
for them, whether they own the vines or
not. Ya rra Shiraz, sometimes labelled
Syrah, has benefited from the Austrahans'
newfound enthusiasm for cooler- cli mate
Shiraz (though, hke Cabernet, 1t tends
to be grown on the warmer val ley fl oor),
and the use of burgu ndian wmemaking
techniques has opened a new chapter for 1t.
Such are the attractions of the Yarra
Valley, seen as cooler than so many
Australian wine regi ons, that, despite a
serious 21st-century problem with
phylloxera, virtually all of the big companies
have bought a shce of it, with fa mily-owned
De Bortolt of R1verina widely ac knowledged
as a seedbed of new talent.
When Moat & Chandon decided to make
a fa ir copy of champagne rn Australia, 1t
chose to establish Domaine Chandon here
Chandon also produces still wine, but the
focus re mains on fizz, more than a dozen
Yarra Valley VICTORIA • AUSTl'tALIA
Ht
WESTERN YA ARA
Our map 1how1 only part ofthe valley (aee the locator
map), the weatern half where moat of the wlneriea are
to be fo und.
I 250,00
0
KmO
5
10Km
i-
-�
��
��-
-�
�-.-�-
-'
Mlln O
cuvees of it . However, as summers have
become warmer and drier, the proportion
of Ya rra Valley fr uit that goes into Domaine
C handon's sparkhng wines has dropped
from the initial 70% to 36%. Strathbog1e,
Macedon Ranges, and the Kmg and Alpine
val leys, especially the Whltlands Plateau,
are usefu lly cooler sources . The start of
the Ya rra harvest 1s no longer reliably as
late as mid- Fe bruary.
• Oo\DIDGI Notable producer
•'-
-
's
�Not.clvmeyard
Vineyards
i:o
o
Contour Interval 100 metres
"We
e
ther station (WSJ
VICTORIA
Fo unded by wine writer
James and Suzanne Halliday
in 1985, Coldstream Hills
helped to put Yarra Valley
Pinot Noir on the map.
YA RRA VA LLEY:
HEALESVI LLE
La titude / Eleva tion of\¥
-37.81 ° / 426ft (130mJ
Average growing caso n temperature at WS
65.5 °F (18.6 °C)
Ave rage annual rainfall at WS
24in (603mm)
Harvest month ral!lfall at W ·
M arch: 2in (41 mm)
Princip. l vit1 ultural hazards
Phylloxera, fu ngal diseases, poor weather
at flowering
I•
c
o
0
[
E
T
F
o

384
AUSTRALIA
New South Wales
New South Wales, Australian wine's
birthplace, has long since been overtaken
by South Australia as the powerhouse of
the industry. But there remai ns one d1str1ct
100 miles (160km) north of Sydney as fam ous
as any m the country, even 1f 1t prod uces less
than 1% of the nation's wine The Hunter
Val ley's total area of vineyard has shrunk by
30% from its peak in the 1980s, some less
suitable sites for vines having been converted
to more 1mmed1ate tou rist d1stract1ons.
Vineyards, and therefore grapes, are much
cheaper m, for instance, McLaren Vale.
The Lower Hunter Val ley between
Branxton and the coal-mining town of
Cessnock represent a triumph of proximity
over suitability. The Hunter, as it 1s known,
is a fa r from ideal place to grow grapes. It 1s
subtropical, the most northerly ofAustralia's
traditional wine regions. Summers are
invariably very hot, and autumns can be
vexmgly wet . The prevailing northeast winds
from the Pacific counter the extreme heat
to some extent and summer skies are often
cloud-covered so the direct sunlight is
diffused. More than two -thirds ofthe
region's re latively high an nual rai nfall of 29 m
(750 mm) falls m the crucial first four months
of the year that include harvest time. There
1s plenty for the farmer to curse, vintages
are as uneven as they are m France
The reason for the rash of w1ner1es on the
map 1s not so much a natu ral affi nity with the
vine as the fact that they are JUSt two hours'
drive fr om Syd ney and a mecca for wine
tourists and investors. No other Australian
wine region sets its cap so obviously at the
casual visitor Restaurants, guesthouses,
go lf courses, and, of course, cellar doors
proliferate.
The soil that gave the Hunter Valley its
reputation 1s found to the sout
.
hmthe
foothills ofthe Brokenback Range. Around
the east side ofthe hills there 1s a stri p of
weathered basalt, the sign of ancient volcanic
act1v1ty, that restricts vine vigour and
concentrates often distinctly "mineral"
flavour into the grapes. The red volcanic soils
on higher ground, such as those of the
Pokolbin subregion, are particularly suitable
for Shiraz, the classic red grape ofthe Hunter,
based on historic vines from some of the first
cuttings to arrive in Australia. Semillon grown
on the white sands and loams - alluvial creek
beds - on lower grou nd 1s the trad 1t1onal
white, even 1f 1t has been decisively overtaken
quantitatively by Chardonnay. Hunter Shiraz
1s naturally rarely more than medium - bodied .
In the past, some was beefed up with stronger
stuff imported from South Australia, but the
current generation of winemakers 1s much
more interested in showing offthe Hunter's
uniquely "burgundian" style. Soft and earthy
but long and spicy, Hunter Shiraz from a
successful vintage may ripen relatively early
but lasts well and grows complex and leathery
with time - though the days when a whiff of
"sweaty saddle" (a hallmark of the potentially
putrid brettanomyces yeast) was ad mired
are long gone.
Hunter Sem1llon Is one of Australia's classic,
1f underapprec1ated, wine styles. The grapes
are picked at low sugar levels, fe rmented and
bottled fa irly early at around 11% alcohol
without any softening (and accelerati ng)
malolact1c conversion. These grassy or
c1trussy, austere young wines age in bottle
quite alarmingly, metamorphosing into
green-go ld, toasty, mineral-edged bombs
packed with explosive layers offlavou r, though
nowadays there 1s an attempt to make them
more approachable in youth by picking a little
later and abandoning ro utine ac id additions.
Verdelho also has a long history in the regron
The Hunter was m the forefront of
Australia's love affair with imported French
grapes. In the early 1970s, Murray Tyrrell,
inspired by Len Evans, the impresario not
only of the Hunter but of modern Australian
wine in general, did with Chardonnay what
Max Lake had done in the 1960s with
Cabernet: put down a marker no winemaker
could ignore, his Vat 47. It launched a
thousand - make that a m1lhon? - Australian
Chardonnays. Cabernet has never taken off
here to anything hke the same extent.
Chardonnay is also by far the principal,
some might say only, grape variety in the
Upper Hunter subregion put on the map m
the 1970s by Rosemount. It hes 40 miles
(60km) to the northwest on higher ground
around Denman and Muswellbrook. Rainfall
is lower and 1rr1gat 1on freely practised
The good supp/Jes of water are evident m this
aerial view of Pokolbm, the name of the official
Hunter Valley subregion mapped m detail
opposite and where most ofthe wme and
tourist act1v1ty 1s to be found.

The Broke Fordwich subregion, halfan hour's
drive west of the area mapped here, Is
currently much more dynamic, prod ucing
d1st1nct1ve Semillons on sandy, alluvial soils .
To the west of the Hunter, about 1,500f't
(450 m) up on the western slopes of the
Great Dividing Range, Mud1•• has also
made its mark since the 1970s (see pp.344-
345 for the location of all New So uth Wales
wine regio n s) Its origins are almost as old as
those ofthe Hunter Va lley, but Mudgee
dwelt in obscu rity until the hunt began for
cooler distri cts . Intense, long-established
Chardonnay and Cabernet (especially from
Huntington Estate) are its trad1t1onal
strengths; Riesling (notably from Robert
Stein) and Shiraz can be very good, too.
Robert Oatley Vineyards, named after the
late yac htsman and Rosemount fo under,
now al so owns historic Cra1gmoor and
1s the region's dominant force by far.
The Rest of New South Wales
New South Wales has seen a sustained and
vigorous quest for new wine regions, all of
them in cooler, often higher, pockets of the
state. New England is Australia's highest
wine region at up to 4,330ft (1,320 m).
Orange, on the slopes of the extinct
volcano Mount Canobolas, is defined by
elevation. Its vineyards, between 1,970
and 3,280ft (600 and 1,000 m) are
distinguished from the rolling hills ofthe
Central Ranges wine zone. The range of
var1et1es that can be grown at such heights
is wide, but a common thread of Orange
wi nes is notably pure natural ac idity. R1eshng,
Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay th rive.
In the higher reaches, beneficial aspect,
rigorous canopy management, and ruthlessly
low yields are hallmarks of the best reds.
Cowra has a much longer history for lush,
fu lsome, exuberant Chardonnays grown at
fai rly high yields and much lower altitudes: on
average only about 1,150ft (350m). Hilltops, a
little to the south, around the town of Young,
and higher than Cowra, 1s much more recent
and, like most of these relatively obscure New
South Wales wine regions, tends to grow fr uit
- notably red grapes, Chardonnay, and Pinot
Gr1s/Gr1g10 - fo r wineries outside the region.
There are half a dozen small enterprises, by
fa r the most important being McWilliam's
Barwang Vineyard and Freeman Vineyards, a
specialist in Italian var1et1es.
The great surprise about Canberra
District, the cluster of vineyards around the
nation's capital, 1s firstly that there are so
many ofthem, secondly that almost all are
actually in New South Wales, and thirdly that
they have been in existence for so long.
Research doctors John Kirk of Clonak1lla and
Edgar Riek of Lake George planted the first
vines as long ago as 1971 The fo rmer's son
Trm virtually pioneered Australia's popular
HUNTIR VA LLIY
The part ofth• Hunter Valley
mapped In detail here Includes th•
nucleus of winer••• and vineyards
that constituted such a vibrant
part of Australian wine culture In
the m id-20th century.
� Wine subregion !Gil
Lovcdalc Unofflc1al wine subregion
• ADINA Notable producer
• Mount
\'lew Noted vineyard
Vineyards
Contour Interval 75 metres
'Y Weather station (WS)
Il
ly
to producers
l HONEYTIU!I
!
2TYR
RBU
'S
3GIJ!NGUIN
4 McGUIGAN
5TBMPUSTWO
6WINI!HOUSI!HUNTBRVAL
LEY
7TAMl
llJRLAIN
E
8Pl
lP
PBR
TRHI!
9TOWERl!STATB
10HUNGBRFORDHDJ.
0
0
Sh1raz/V1ogn rer blend modelled on Cote­
Rotre. The highest vineyards such as Lark
Hill's, now b1odynamic, are not JUSt cool but
cold (frost can strike), and the result can be
some of Australia's most delicate Pinot Norr,
R1eshng, and even Gruner Velthne r.
Shoalhaven Coqt rs also developing fa st,
although, hke Hastings River around Port
Macquarie to the north, rt suffers from hrgh
hum1d1ty. Hybrids such as the red - skinned
Chambourcin offer a solution of a sort.
Tu mbarumba Is another extremely cool,
hrgh -altrtude region, of particular interest
to blenders of refi ned Chardonnays and
sparkling w ine. An increasing number of
Tu mbarumba- labelled whites are being
bottled by producers In nearby Hilltops and
Canberra Distric t.
•I•
•I
NEW SOUTH WALES • AUITRALIA
..
(�)
r
•t.
.
•
7
_,I
I Bhli_ops H1l/ I
��
Gull� �t
� r:;."\a
I
ck
1 250,00
0
�o
w�
1-�����..
..
..
��--.-� --
-
Mor.
.
o
LOW ER HUNTER: CESS OOK T
Lat itude / Elevation of W
· 32.50° / 295ft (90m)
Average growing season temperature at WS
71°F (21.7 °C)
A
I
c
o
E
T
F
Ave rage annual rainfall at W
271n (678 mm)
0
Harve t month rainfall at W
Febru ry: 3.4in (87mm)
Principal v1ticulturnl hazards
Harvest rainfall, fu ngal disease
Princi p'll grape arietlcs
R: Shiraz; W: Semillon, Chardonnay, Verdelho

A
..
.
.!
c
i)
366
AUSTRALIA
I'
. ·"'
Ta s mania
Climate change is pushing Australian
wine-srowers south. Tas mania, the little
Island state 260 miles (420 km) across the
Baas Strait from Melbourne, has been the
logical next step. Its high latitudes (the same
as New Zealand's South Island) have made 1t
the envy of many mainland winemakers.
Hardys relies on Tas mania for fruit for its
top Arras fizz. Yal umba does the same for
Jansz and acq uired the ad mired Dal rymple
vineyards Goelet Wine Estates, owner of
Taltarni in Victoria, now depends on
Tasmania for its Clover Hill wines.
But the island makes some extremely
accomplished still wines, too. Shaw + Smith's
acq u1s1t1on of the renowned To lpuddle
vineyard was its first foray outside the
Adelaide Hills Its Pmot Noir m particular
demonstrates Just how well it was planned
and planted Brown Bros of Victoria made
Bass Stra it
..
.
l
Str�g �1 a!',t,
,
the boldest move into Tas mania of all: having
ac quired interests Including Tamar Ridge,
Pirie, and Devil's Corner, it is now the Island's
leading producer, attracted by the quality of
its unusually fresh, we ll- bal anced still Pinots.
Brown Bros' nearest rival , making Pipers
Brook and Ninth Island wines, 1s Flem1s h ­
owned Kreglinge r Wine Estates .
Strictly llmlted
Even as recently as 2017 the Island's grand
total of 230 vineyards ac counted for a mere
4,940 acres (2,000ha), hm1ted in many cases
by the avai lability of 1 rrigat1on water For
although the island's west coast 1s one of
Austral ia's wettest areas, complete with
rai nforests, Hobart vies with Adelaide as the
driest state capital. So fa r, vineyards are
confined to the eastern third of the island, in
unofficial regions (al l wines are labelled simply
Tas mania) with very distinct characters
The sheltered Tamar Valley and the wooded,
wetter, later-ripening Pipers River regions in
the northeast of the island are reckoned to
arys
t
Ta mar Valley is the
island's most important
wine region, producing
about 40% ofall
Ta smanian wine.
'
.
To smorno�
:l:t Unofficial wine region
• JANSZ Notable producer
eTolpud
dle
Noted vineyard
Contour Interval 50
0
metres
supplementary contour 20
0
m
Wuther staitlon (WS)
be so me of Australia's moat proPltious areas
for cool-climate wine production. The river
helps moderate temperatures, and valley
slopes ward off dangerous frosts . But there
are sites on the southeast coa$t so sheltered
by the principal mountains thatthe fact that
there Is no land between them and the
Antarctic seems hardly relevant. The natul"fl
l
amphitheatre around Freycinet seems
pre-ordai ned for viticulture and has yielded
some exceptionally pretty Pinot Noir when
summers are not too hot.
Even Huon Valley, Australia's southernmost
wine region, has produced some fu lly ripe
medal-w i n ners. Derwent Valley and Coal
River, to the north and northeast of Hobart,
respectively, are notably dry, being tn the
ram shadow of Mount Welhngton, although
Coal River at least now has good access
to 1rr1gat1on water. They are probably best
at Chardonnay, Pinot No1r, and Riesling
(dry to very sweet), but carefully chosen
and managed sites can be warm enough to
ripen Cabernet Sauv1gnon, as Domaine A,
now owned by pioneer Moorilla Estate,
has proved.
It's an ill wind
Tasmania is an increasingly important
hunting ground for Australia's biggest wine
companies All of the Pinot No1r and a great
deal of the Chardonnay that goes into
Hardys' top Eileen Hardy wines 1s Tas manian.
Penfolds has been steadily increasing the
Tasmanian proportion in its "icon"
Chardonnay, Yattarna. The island's history
as a supplier of base wine for fizz means that
Pinot Noir, then Chardonnay, are the most
important var1et1es by far with 44% and 23%
respectively of the total vineyard
The coastal winds provide a natural limit
to yields in the vineyards carved out of
Tasmania's rich and ftor1ferous bush. Screens
are necessary in some places to preserve the
vine leaves on the seaward slope But ripening
1s as slow and sure asany vintner could hope
for, and flavour correspondingly intense.
TASMANIA: LAUNCESTON 'f
Latitude / Ele ation ofWS
- 41.54• / 544ft (166m)
Ave rage grnwing oca�on tcmpcrnt 11rc ut WS
58.0 °F (14.4°C)
Ave rage annual ralnft1 1l at WS
241n (620 mm)
I Iarvc�t month rnrnfoll nt V.'S
April: 1 .9in (47mm)
Pnnc1p,t l '1ticultural ha;:,1rdo
Botrytls, couture
P1 1 nup,1I !!r,1 pe v,1 riC'lH'>
R: Plnot Noor; W: Chardonn y, Sauvlgnon
Blanc, Ptnot Gr1s/Grlg10, R1 5Jlng

New Zealand
F•w wine oountrlff hav• quite ao sharp an
Im..
.
u New Zealand. Th• word "sharp" I•
apt, for the wines speak In a Kiwi accent
that Is hard to mistake, characterized by
plerclnlly crystalline flavours and bracln1
acidity. New Zealand 1s not JUSt one of the
most isolated countries on earth (more than
three hours' flight fr om its nearest neighbour,
Australia), but 1t 1s a relative newcomer to
wine. And 1t 1s small, producing only 1% ofthe
world's wme. New Zealand has colonized as
much space m this book as it has because 1t
is a serious exporter - almost 90% of its
wine 1s now sold abroad - and because so
many ofthose who try the wines, even
mcludmg Australians, fa ll madly m love with
their unusually intense, direct flavours.
The first (1971) ed1t1on of th1s book hardly
mentioned New Zealand. It had few vmes,
too many of them hybrids. Vmes were first
planted m Marlborough, the modern
powerhouse ofthe wme industry, as recently
as 1973. By 1980 the region had 2,000 acres
(800 ha) of the country's total of 14,000
acres (5,600 ha) of vineyard.
Smee the 1990s it seemed as though
anyone m the country with a few acres has
tried their hand at vme-growmg. By 2018,
New Zealand had almost 94,000 ac res
(38,000ha) in production
An extraord inary bumper crop in 2008
JOited the ind ustry, however. For the first time
m the modern era wine firms had to grapple
with a serious glut of grapes: many
remained unpicked on the vines. The
number of grape-growers fe ll fr om
1,060 in 2008 to 1ust over 700 in 2018,
as small -scale vineyards, however
alluring, have proved barely profitable.
Meanwhile, the number ofwmer1es has
grown steadily to 697 in 2018, many of
them owning their own vineyards. Thanks
to economies of scale, contract winemakmg
rs big business; a high proportion ofgrowers
have a label but no winery oftheir own.
New Zealand had some natural problems
to contend with before its wine-mania could
take practical and fruitful fo rm . Only 150
years ago much of th1s long, thin country
was covered with rainforest. Soils here can
be so rich in nutrients that vines, like
everythJng else, grow too vigorously for
their own good, a phenomenon exacerbated
by the country's generous rainfal l, especially
in the west and the North Islan d. On both
islands, v1t1cultu re is concentrated on the
east coast; in the South Island, the
Southern Alps provide a useful ram s hadow.
Canopy management techniques were
sorely needed, and were introduced in
the1980s, most notably by the state
l2
21•
11,195,00
0
""'�
f----
•
..
.
20
..
._
_
,
_390
..
..
..
..
__-'"'
390
""
"
':"'
Milo
o
0
100
:JO
O
Milot
Wine re1lona
- Northland
- "uckland
Kumeu
Glsborne
Hawke's Bay
Wa1rarapa (includ1na Martlnborou11hl
Nelson
Marlborouah
canterbul)'
Central OtaSo
Waltak1 Valley
Region boundal)'
Wine subregion not
mapped elsewhere
Area mapped at larger
scale on page shown
South Island
Ta sman
Sea
viticulturist Dr Richard Smart, allowing light
to shine both literally and flgu rat1vely on
New Zealand's unique style of wme
New Zealand's cal llng card
It was Sauvignon B!anc that made the world
take notice of New Zealand. A cool climate 1s
needed ifthe wine 1s to be lively, and the cool,
bright, sunny, and windy northern tip of the
South Island seems to have been designed
to Intensify Its scarcely subtle twang. Early
exam p les of Marlborough Sauvignon in the
1980s opened a Pandora's box of flavour that
no one could ignore and, most importantly,
no other part of the world seemed able to
replicate. Today, Sauv1gnon Blanc 1s the
country's most important grape by far,
No rth
PA CIFIC OCEAN
NEW ZEALAND'S WINE REGIONS
Most ofthe west and south coast 1s too wet
for wine prod uction, and the far north of
Northland is almost tropical, but much of the
rest of the country Is suitable for viticulture
Subregions marked are the most significant
and are slowly bemg acknowledged m a system
of official geographical indications (Gls)
instituted from 2017
accounting for 60% of total vineyard area,
making New Zealand more reliant on a single
grape variety than any other country (see
panel overleaf)
It's easy to see why In 2018, Sauv1gnon
Blanc accou nted fo r a staggering 86% of
New Zealand's thriving wine exports - and
since this is a wine that can be shipped early,
without any oak agemg, it 1s quite a feat that
New Zealand has one ofthe highest average
prices per bottle m its many export markets
So popular has Sauv1gnon, particularly that
from M arlborough, proved that the country's
wine industry, hke its landscape, has attracted
many a foreign investor The first important
one was the French-based multinational
Pernod Ricard corporation that bought the
16
at7
lll
D
I
E
T

38
8
NEW ZEALAND
country's dominant producer, now known as
Brancott Estate, back in 2005.
All of them put most of their eggs in the
Sauv1gnon Blanc basket, but there are signs
that New Zealand's Pmot Noir producers are
also capable of luring foreigners. Pmot No1r
1s the country's other big success story -
again thanks to the relatively cool climate.
It represents al m ost as high a proportion of
red wme grapes (72%) as Sauvignon does
of white (76%). The four mam Pinot regions
- Marlborough, Martmborough, Central
Otago, and Canterbury - each have their own
styles, but New Zealand's Pinot 1s ge nerally
as easy to appreciate as its Sauv1gnon.
Among other reds, Merlot 1s much more
popular with growers than the inconveniently
late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, which has
been overtaken by Syrah (1,075 acres/435ha
1n 2018), a Hawke's Bay speciality.
Among white wme grape varieties, New
Zealand Chardonnay can be world-class,
thanks to the country's combination of a cool
climate and bright sun. But growers find
Sauvignon more profitable The total area of
Chardonnay has been shrmkmg. Meanwhile,
usefully unoaked (hence cheaper to make)
Pmot Gris has been catc hing up Rieslings,
both dry and sweet, can be very fine.
Isolation has kept some vine pests and
diseases at bay, but most vines are grafted
THE FALL AND RISE :QJI' J«#.;
onto phylloxera- res1 stant rootstocks .
Sustamab1hty 1s a Kiwi buzzword, but cr1ter1a
fo r official approval are relatively lenient .
North Island
New Zealand wme has come a long way since 1t
was known local ly as "Dally plonk", a reference
to settlers from Dalmatia, lured from the kaur1
pme forests ofthe far north to plant vineyards
near Auckland in the early 20th century. They
persisted, despite a rainy subtrpp1cal climate;
several fa mous wme fam ilies have Croatian
names - most notably the Bra1kov1ches of
Kumeu River, who make Chardonnays that can
withstand comparison with the best white
burgundies. As 1n Australia's Hunter Valley,
cloud cover moderates what could be too
much sunshine and, with afte rnoon ocean
breezes, gives steady ripening conditions.
Vintage-time ram and rot can be problematic,
although Waiheke Island to the east misses
some ofthe mainland rain Stonyr1dge long ago
showed the island's potential with Bordeaux
grapes, but prospects for Syrah look even
brighter 1f anything. In the subtropical far
north, Northland growers prod uce a trickle of
impressive Syrah, Pmot Gris, and Chardonnay
m drier seasons.
Glsborne, on the east coast of the North
Island, with its relatively few wineries, 1s a
good exam ple of a region plundered and now
Back 111 1990, ew Z e ala nd' mo t common grape variety was
19%
abandoned by blenders and bottlers. Its
signature variety, Chardonnay, however good,
rs now less sought after than Sauvrgnon Blanc
and Pinot Gris grown rn cooler regions to the
south. Warmer but wetter than Hawke's Bay,
especially m autumn, cyclone-prone Grsborne
grows al most exclusively white grapes on
relatively fe rtile loamy soils, ge nerally prcked
two to three weeks before Hawke's Bay and
M arlborough.
Ohau , a new wrne-growing subregion on the
west coast, north of Wellrngton, is y1eldrng
crrsp, punchy Sauvrgnon Blanc and Prnot Gris.
South Island
Just across the notoriously windy Cook Strait
on the South Island and to the west of
Marlborough, Nelson has about the same area
of vrnes planted as Wairarapa m the North
Island (see p 370), but 1t has a higher rarnfall,
and hard ly any brg company i nfluence. The
vrneyards are clustered on the southwest
coast of Tasman Bay, both on the gravel­
threaded clay sorls ofthe rolling Moutere Hills
and on the stony alluvial soils ofthe Warmea
Plarns, more open to mar1t1 me i nfl uence. A
versatile region, producing freshly herbaceous
Sauv1gnon and sturdy, rich Chardonnay and
Prnot No1r, rt also has a strong reputation for
aromatic whites, especially Riesling and the
increasrngly popular Prnot Grrs.
M uller- Thurgau, which has now virtually disappeared (in 2018,
there were only 5 acre /2 ha of the vanety o 1t i s included 111 the
other grape c atego ry) . The country's varietal pro 1le ha hanged
e n ormous l y, with the mo t - plant ed variety, auvignon Blan 111
th1� ca e, dom111at111g it more definitively than in any other
country. Pinots oir and Gris have been on the ri e, t oo, while the
Iota) area devoted to the vrne has grown almost eightfold
1,814 acres
0,7%
4%
• Sauv1gnon Blanc
• Pmot N01r
Chardonnay
Pmot Gr1s
• Merlot
. Riesling
• Cabernet Sauv1gnon
Muller Thurga u
Other grapes
30 7%
3 692 acres
(1 ,494 hal
269%/
J 227 1cre1
(1 306hal
8. 8%
l ,055 ac res
(427 ha)
3.6%
�
4
�
� :��
·
14.lo/.
1703 acres
{689ha)
1990
v
--
i!
!!W-
237
2�
,..
�
{96ha)
5
8%
697
acrH
81
3
(282 ha)
979 acres
(39 ha)
TOTAL VINEYARD AREA IN 1990
= 12,058 AC RES (4,880 HA)
8.6%
67%
6,304 acres
12,551ha)
8 016 acres
{3,244ha)
15%
14 080 r-•
{�.69A h1J
t7341\al
633 acres
(256 ha)
3.2%
TOTAL VINEYARD AREA IN 2018 = 93,692 AC RE (37,917 HA)

Hawke's Bay
In New Z.aland t•rms, Hawkt
t'
1B�Is
historic, havln1 bMn plan� by Marlst
ml1slonarle1 In the 1880.. But It wu
Cabernet• made here In the 1940s by a
local, Tom McDonald, that lured Australian
company McWllllam's to start developln1
what 11 now the country'• second·
blgest wine region. McDonald's
1949 Cabernet blend was New
Zealand's first great red wine.
When the country's serious
planting began 1n the 1970s,
Hawke's Bay was a logical place to
expand. Although the leading
mountai ns to greener pastures, produced
wines that were obviously made from fu lly ripe
grapes, even Cabernet Sauv1gnon, and had the
gentle but insistent tannins to suggest a
serious fu ture. Subsequent vintages have
shown that the region's red blends can stand
comparison with the archetypes, even 1fthe1r
varietal make-up has evolved. They may
mature more rapidly but cost very much less.
It had long been obvious that the mar1t1me
climate of th1s wide bay on the east coast
of the North Island, sheltered from the
westerlies by the Ruahine and Kaweka
ranges, could offer one of the country's most
favo urable combinations of relatively low
rar nfal l and high temperatures (albeit lower
than Bordeaux's). What happens underground
took longer to understand.
Poorest soils, ripest grapes
An aerial view of Hawke's Bay shows the
remarkable variety of rich al luvial and less
fe rtile, gravelly soils and their dist ribution
in a pattern flowrng from mountarn to sea.
Slit, loams, and gravel have very different
water-holding capac1t1es; one vrneyard can be
atsaturation point, shootrngforth vegetation
at a furious rate, while another will perish 1f
'not Irrigated. It became clear that the ripest
grapes were grown on the poorest sorls,
wMch llmited vine growth, and on which
IY>riget
ion
could control how much water each
vme recetVed. There are no soils poorer than
the 2,000 acres (BOOha) ofdeep, warm
shingle that remain where the G1mblett Road
now runs. northwest of Hastings, along what
was the course ofthe Ngaruroro River until a
dramatic flood 1n 1870 The late 1990s saw a
vrtlcultural lanCl grab on this.area craftily
labelled Gimblett Gravels, a catchy,
trademarked name - a frenzy during which
11
AROUND THE BAY
The weather station in Napier is hkely to be a
little more temperate than some of Hawke's
Bay's most fa mous vineyards fu rther from the
coast. Note the principal subregions, of which
Glmblett Gravels has made the most noise
1 357,150
Km�
i
I
1,01<m
Milo
o
o
5Ml
lo
o
EskVal
l
ey Wine subregion
t
• UNISON Notable producer
Vineyards
--20
0
Contour interval 100 metres
T Weather station (WS)
the last three-quarters of avai lable land was
bought and pl&;nted rn readrness for what
practically amounts to hydroponic cult1vat1on.
Other good areas for ripening red grapes
rnclude the Bridge Pa Triangle JUSt south of
and slightly cooler than here; selected sites
on the limestone hills of Havelock North,
such as that colonized by Te Mata many
years earlier; as well as a cool, late-r1penrng
st rip of shingle alongthe coast between
Haumoan a and Te Awanga.
Like everywher& else, New Zeal and suffered
excessive Cabernet Sauvtgnon worship rn the
1980s. Even rn the warmth of Gimblett
Gravels this variety has d11'f'iculty ripening
Nl:W Zl:ALAND
219
HAWKE'S BAY: API ER
Latitude Eleva tion of WS
· 39.50° / 7ft (2m)
Ave rage growing season temperature at WS
62.9°F (17.2 °C)
verage annual rainfall at WS
31 in (786 mm)
Harve t month rainfall at WS
March: 2 .6 i n (67mm)
Principal viticultural hazard
Autumn rai n, summer cyclones, fu ngal
diseases
Principal grape varietie
R: Merlot, Syrah, Plnot Noir, Cabernet
Sauvignon; W : Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
fu lly, and the much more reliable, earher­
r1pening Merlot 1s now by far the most­
planted red wine variety m Hawke's Bay five
times more than Cabernet And many
Cabernet vines have been grafted over to
Syrah . Th ree-quarters of all the country's
Syrah vines are planted rn Hawke's Bay's
poor soils, r1penrng sat1sfactor1ly most years.
Early- ripenrng Malbec also thrives here and
1s popular rn blends, although it is prone to
poor fruit set . And even warmish Hawke's
Bay is not immune to Sauvignon Blanc fe ver.
There can be considerable vintage
var1at1on, though. Cyclones have been known
to wreak havoc here
c
0
E
'

A
..
.
D
E'
[
f
370
NEW ZEALAND
Wairarapa
The North Island's most promising area for
Pinot Nolr, and the first in New Zealand to
establish a reputation for It, is Wairarapa.
It includes Martlnborough, the southern
subregion named after Wairarapa's wine
capital, a small town apparently devoted to
food and wine, and Gladstone and Masterton,
off our map to the north
The region 1s closely associated with
Wellington, the country's capital. An hour's
drive northeast over the mountains and into
the island's eastern ram shadow, Wa1rarapa
has such low temperatures that former
research scientist Dr Neil McCallum, the
founder of Dry River, was able to observe
drily· "In terms of our heat summation we're
very hke Edinburgh." Thanks to the mountai ns
to the west, however, Martmborough's
autumns are the North Island's driest, giving
Wairarapa's 60-plus wineries the chance to
make some ofthe most v1v1d and Burgundian
Pmot No1r, which is their dommant vine.
It ranges from potently plummy to, more
commonly nowadays, lean, dry, and earthy
- but then so does burgundy.
The Burgundian parallel extends to the
structure of the wine business here, with
wines typically made by the same people who
grew the grapes Yields are much lower than
in, for instance, Marlborough across the Cook
Strait - barely 2 tonnes/acre on average. The
region has thin, poor soils on free -draining
deep gravels, silts, and clay, and the prevailing
westerlies in this windy area are particularly
persistent at flowering time, generally after a
cool spring, during which frosts are a perennial
threat. Grapes are routinely helped by a long
growing season, however, and by the fact that
Martinborough en1oys one of New Zealand's
greatest diurnal temperature variations
Many ofthe leading wineries, such as Ata
Rang1, Martinborough Vineyard, and Dry
River, were established m the early 1980s, so
have the beneflt of mature vines, many of
them a local special ity, the "Abel" clone of
Pmot Noir. The region has also shown real
proflc1ency in New Zealand's current varietal
darli ng, Plnot Gris An excel lent clone was
imported fo r the Mission winery of Hawke's
Bay m the 1880s Sauvignon Blanc 1s
Wairarapa's second most- planted variety
In the hugely self- conscious world of New
Zealand Pmot Noir, there 1s considerable
rival ry between Martinborough and Central
Otago, each organ izing ma1or international
events to celebrate the variety.
The American-owned Craggy Range 11 baffd In
Hawk•'• Sqy but own1 thete Immaculately
managed Plnot Nolr and Sauvlgnon vineyard•
on the fa mou1 Te Muna Te rrace•.
Pinnoa
ta:
:
u1o
\
a
1e
�
r
Pukl0'6
1180,00
0
KmO
4
6Km
i-
-
��--� ..
..
..
-'-��--'-.
twl.O
4Milo
o
MARTINBOROUGH
Over the mountains from Welllngton , and In the lee of'the hills
to the east, Martlnborough's tight cl uster ofw1nerfa and
vineyards enjoys a relatively cool, dry growing season most
years - p ro piti ous for Plnot Nol r.
474.
I
• ATA RANGI Notable producer
C=:J Vineyards
50
0
Contour Interval 100 metres

Canterbury
Canterbury is the name given to the
hinterland of South Island's capital,
Christchurch. As a wine region it has
followed a different course from most of New
Zealand, making some of the most burgu nd1an
of the country's Pinots and Chardonnays.
Vines were first planted here in the
mid-19th century, on the Banks Peninsula,
but commercial wine production waited well
over a century. The whole region 1s cool· too
cool to ripen red Bordeaux grapes. Long, dry
su mmers and fa irly constant winds -
whether the hot, dry nor'wester that can be
so strong 1t can damage vines, or the much
cooler wrnd from the south - are its
advantages Wind, within limits, keeps grapes
healthy Frost 1s a perennial threat between
late September and early November and
crops tend to be relatively small. Water 1s
scarce Irrigat ion, fr om artesian wells, is
ge nerally essential
The plains around and to the south of
Christchurch, generally silty over gravel,
sometimes covered with thin loess, are
extremely wrndy and exposed, but the more
undulating terrain of Walpara, an hour's
drive north of the city, 1s protected from east
winds by the low range of the Tev 1otdale Hills.
The Southern Alps to the west contribute
their shelter, too. Wa1 para's so1l 1s calcareous
NllW ZllALAND
271
Ye s, Waipara winters can be pretty cold, as
witness this vineyard belong/� to Tiki, named
after the Maori tall.man ofgood luck and
fertll
l
ty. Some win• operations In New Zealand
now are Maori-o wned.
loam with clay and limestone depos its. The
Wai para pioneer Pegasus Bay, founded by
Ivan Donaldson, a Christchurch doctor, soon
built a reputation fo r fine R1eshngs - excellent
dry, easier sweet But in recent years some
of the big companies, taking advantage of
lower land costs, planted Sauvignon Blanc so
enthus1ast1cally that 1t has become the
most-planted variety here. The plan was
that cheaper fr uit would be used for the 15%
ad d1t1on of Sauv1gnon Blanc fr om another
region allowed in Marlborough Sauvignon.
Frosts and cool weather at flowering have
rather put paid to this by curbing yields, as
they do with the early-budding Chardonnay
Pinot Noir 1s al m ost the only red wine variety
planted , on about a third of the total
vineyard The resultrng wines vary from
disappointingly herbal to extremely
promising homages to red burgundy.
The best have real subtlety
Wineries cluster along the main road
northwest of Amberley, but this is not a
densely planted region . The 1solat1on of most
vineyards, the reasonably dry chmate, and
persistent winds make organic viticulture
relatively easy here
Two of New Zealand's most significant
prod ucers struck out west of Wa1 para, over
the Weka Pass in North Canterbury Both
Bell Hill, established in 1997, and Pyramid
Valley, from 2000, scouted out limestone,
and the burgu ndian connection 1s evident in
their best bottles - both red and white.
I 217.00
0
• MOUNl'l'ORD Notable producer
Vineyards
50
0
·
Contour interval
100 metres
KmO
10Km
������
--
���-.
..
.
,.-
-
�..
..
.
M.lo
o
O
WAIPA RA
Canterbury's biggest concentration of wineries
and vineyards, just north of earthquake-damaged
Christchurch , 1s in Waipara, an enclave within
North Canterbury. Cellar-door sales are
important, Judging by their roadside locations,
particularly since the 2011 earthquake that cut off
the coast road to Ka1koura. The alternative
Blenheim- Canterbury road emerged at Waipara.
I•
c
o
E
r
f
o

372
NEW ZEALAND
Marlborough
By 2018, Marlborough had over 64,000
acres (26,000ha) under vine, more than five
- yes, five - times the area planted at the
turn of the century, and yet more plantings
are expected. The number of growers and
wine producers slightly declined, to 2018
totals of 510 and 141, respectively, from a
peak five years earl i er But a high proportion
of these prod ucers have their wines made
at one ofthe region's extremely busy
contract wineries.
The fe verish rate of vine planting In
Marlborough in recent years has seen it
pull so far ahead of all other New Zealand
wine regions that it Is New Zealand wi ne.
Almost 70% of the country's vineyards lie
in this very particular corner ofthe wine
world. And thanks to the yields of the
Sauv1gnon Blanc that 1s grown on more than
85% of all vineyard land here, Marlborough 1s
responsible for almost 80% of the country's
grape crop. This 1s quite an ac hievement
given that, apart from one settler who
planted vines at Meadowban k Farm (today
the site of Auntsfield Estate) around 1873,
the vine was almost unknown here until 1973,
the year the country's dominant wine
Coasldl Wa1rau Sill loams
Inland WJirau loams
Sout hern Vall ys Cla
Awai err Mal nx
producer, Brancott (then known as
Montana), planted the first commercial
vineyard of 500 acres (200 ha).
Lack of 1rr1gat1on caused teething problems,
but in 1975 the first Sauv�gnon Blanc vines
were planted . By 1979, the first vintage of
Montana Marlborough Sauv1grron Blanc was
bottled and the special intensity from this
region was too obvious to ignore. Such an
ex hilarating, easy-to- understand wine clearly
had extraordinary potential, and this was
rapidly realized by, among others, David
Hohnen ofCape Mentelle in Western Australia.
In 1985, he launched Cloudy Bay, whose name,
evocative label, and smoky, almost chokingly
pungent flavour have since become legendary
Inland \Va irau Loa ms
What makes Marlborough special
The wide, flat Walrau Valley continues to
be a magnet for investors, particularly but
by no means exclusively for Asian wine
importers keen to secure their own supply
and trim their costs, and those who simply
l i ke the idea of making wine their hfe The
economics of Marlborough wh ite wine
( ompri 5u1g !he ppc>r Wa irau and the 11101 grnvell H.11 ang1 '>ubn' !(Ion�.
\\ 1lh shallow s 1lly and and l oJ m 'i auv 1gnon llla11t 1> mo't co111111011l
planled here, Loo, although Ml111e ulhe1 wh1lc> w111c> gro pc>» Jr<• gro\' il on LIH
le'>S\ 1gorous>ile .
l\!Jrlborouph h,1' <,Onl l" of !he )'Oongt '>l '-Oil'> in the wo1 lei , and almo'>l 90
d1ff1· 1tnt t}pcs Thi� u111 qur mnp, rn m p i l ecl with th1• a%1>ta11cc of lut UI w1nr
1ndu Ir} exp<·1 ts .rnd '>Oil .,ur1111.,1.,, hows thefou1 m.iJUI soilgroup., Ill
outhern ullt' s In s
Comprising LheWrnhopm, 0111.ika, 13rnncott, fl<>n MorH'll, nml 'l'.1} lor Pao,,
&ubreg1011 Thetop•uil 1 lwllow lonm buttht• lo\\ \ 1gou1 Lia hn" eJH uu1Ji.(< cl
pla11trngs oJ' P1 11ol 01r 011d Ch,11 don n av Wa l h opJt hJ, "'me ,1 lluv1nl >iih bu t i­
lowcr in vigourthan Wa1rau P111ol 'olr y1eJd,1h mo'>tllorJ) 11th rnd !.11ppl1•
w1111• ., 111 e levat ed. du ba; ecl !le'> 011 llw, •ou thern 'Ide
r J,1l1ontuthew1111• gro\\o111g,1re.i , but 11 may bea whilebrforethe world\
ar m} of \1 arlborough Su11v1gnon drinker; ore given 1•xamplr' of W llll' llrnt
tJn ht d11 tc l l) l111k1•cl lo thrm Th<• mgle v 111ey .11 d bot l1111gs t hat are tartrng
to 1 nw rg1 may glH• clur., to tho'>!.' 1rmed with llll'• A lln i..
Cou<,l11l W iruu Silt Loa m
(om pr 1 111v t ht Lo\\ l r 'v\n1rau 11d l)il)(>11� Po llll ;ubreg1on• Dt 1• p 'Ill) ,1 11d
ndJo11
1
high 111 ,,rltand n111wrul> thal an• mainly pl,111t1:d w1lh\J).loruu'
S II\1gnonBl rn \IJH
walcre Mut rix
Th wu ll'1 c ull1• h.i� 111uli1 11101 e tom pil'x "lib th,rn lh1 'v\ ',11r.iu ,1 11d
Southernvalle\s lothe north J'htv makt• upJ 11
1.1
tnx of ,iJ.Jllcm tu mndt 1 . 111 I)
deep.,Jil)loam' \\ollhpotkt•h of'.ind l(r 1\l I .md<Iiv onlh< h11(h<·1 II 1 r u ''
lhJl t' ll UJUIDl(l' l l 1" 1 llll(l' of Ulfft 11 Il l \ Jrlt"lJ) p)Jlllill)h

1 250.00
0
KMO
5
10Km
,._
�����..
..
..
��..
..
.
�--
WAIRAU
VAl
l.EY
Rapaura
· �UDY
C=:J
Milo<0
Wine region
Wine subregion
Notable producer
Vineyards
=-m- Contour interval 100 metres
'Y Weather station CWSl
production are attractive to say the least:
a prohftc grape variety with a worldwide
re putation that needs no expensive oak
ageing and can be bottled and sold before
the year 1s out
The big companies have been planting
fu rther and fu rther west in the Wairau
Valley, where land 1s much cheaper than in
the origi nal nucleus ofthe Lower Wa1 rau
mapped here, where the easterhes that blow
1n offthe ocean at night ward off frost most
years. Some form of frost protection 1s
essential further inland, however, especially
towards the Wai rau Val ley township. Some
plantings have been so far west that grapes
don't ripen every year, and on land where the
valley's precious water supply 1s scarce.
What makes Marlborough special as a
wme region is its unusual combination of
Jong days, cold nights, bright sunshine, and,
m good years, dryish autumns. In such
l'elat1vely low temperatures (see the key
fac ts panel above), rai ny autumns such
as in 2017can be fatal, but here grapes
can usually- but not always - be left on the
vine to ripen slowly, building high sugars
without (thanks to the col d nights)
sacrificing the acidity that characterizes
New Zealand's wines.
r
Blenheim, once a sleepy fa rming
community, has had wine tourism
fo isted on it by the global
popularity ofMarlborough
Sauvig non Blanc.
This diurnal temperature var1at1on is most
marked in the slightly drier, cooler, and
windier Awatere Valley to the south (see
map overleaf). It was pioneered by Vavasour
in 1986 and has expanded enormously in
recent years, thanks to irr1gat 1on schemes
and the enthus1ast1c vineyard planting of, in
particular, Ye alands Estate.
If the Awatere Valley were treated as a
region in its own right - rather than as part
of Marlborough - 1t would ran k as the
second- largest in the country, behind only
the Wa1 rau Valley and ahead of Hawke's Bay
Both budbreak and harvest tend to be later
in the Awatere Val ley than on the Wa1 rau
Valley floor, but summers are long and hot
- certai nly '
warm enough to ripen most white
wine varieties (especially Sauv1gnon Blanc,
Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris) and
Pinot Noir Vi nes have also been planted with
some success in the Wa1 ma (Ure) Valley and
at Kekerengu, we ll south of the Awatere
Val ley But perhaps the most s1gn 1ftcant
var1at1on in Marlborough 1s that of soils (see
panel opposite).
North of highways 6 and 63 which run
east- west through the Wa1rau Valley, with a
few exceptions around Woodbourne, soils
are very much you nger than those to the
MARLBOROUGH • NEW ZEALAND
an
MARLBOROUGH: BLE fl b IM 'Y
Lat1tud E](•va t ion ofWS
- 41.so• / 115ft (35ml
Avc 1 age growing .,ca�on tempcrntur(' at WS
59.7•F (15.4°C)
Average anmrnl rai nf.ill at WS
28in (711mm)
Harvest month rai nfall at WS
April: 2 .1in (53mm)
Pr111cipul viti ultural ha 1ard�
Autumn rain
Pri ncipal grape varict1c
W: Sauvlgnon Blanc, Pinot Gris; R : Plnot Noir
..
.
r
WAIRAU VA LLEY
What a ro llercoaster this small valley and the
quiet town of Blenheim has known: from sheep
to vine bonanza to embryonic appellation
system in just three decades. The potential is
indubitable but is not unlimited . V1t1cultural
details and evolving subregions can make all the
difference to wine quality.
south. In places, the water table can be
dangerously high and the best vineyards on
these young, stony soils are the best-drained
on light loams over the shingle that was
once the riverbed. Mature vines develop
deep root systems, although yo ung vines
need irrigat ion to survive the dry summers.
South of Highway 63 in the Southern
Valleys, the lowest-lying older soils can be
too poorly drained for ftne wine prod uction,
but there are some decent vineyard sites
in the Brancott, Omaka, and Waihopai
subregions Better- drained, h1gher- alt1tude
vineyard s on the exposed, barren southern
edge of the val ley are more likely to
produce interesting fr uit from much drier
soils, however
Standing out from the crowd
The bigger producers of Sauv1gnon Blanc
ty pically blend fr uit grown on diffe rent soils
in slightly diffe rent climatic conditions in an
attempt to differentiate their produce in
what risks being a rather monotone
category. Restrai ned use of French oak and
malolact1c fe rmentation can help. A growing
number ofsingle-vineyard Sauv1gnons and
examples labelled with a particular subregion
are emerging, however, as are seriously
E
f'
F
o

Woo lly lawnmowers ? Babydoll sheep keep cover
crops under control in the extensive vineyards
of Ye a/ands Estate in the Awatere Valley. New
Zealand has made much of1ts wine industry's
commitment to sustainab1/1ty.
amb1t1ous wines from hand- picked, relatively
low-yielding fruit, perhaps barrel -fermented
with no added yeast, and aged on lees as
classic white burgundy is
In 2018, the locally controlled Appellation
Marlborough Wine scheme was launched by
36 ofthe region's most respected wineries,
1nit1ally concentrat ing fo r obvious reasons
on Sauv1gnon Blanc. They ad minister
cert1flcat1on in a system remarkably hke a
European appellation, the first such instance
outside Europe
Marlborough does grow other grape
varieties. The most important other white
wine grapes are Pmot Gris and Riesli ng,
including some Inspiring late-harvest
examples from Fram ingham Pmot No1r 1s
quantitatively more important, though, and
Marlborough's best Pinots have gai ned
considerably m complexity as the vines have
aged Like Sauv1gnon, Pmot is increasingly
sold with some geographical at tribute.
AWAl ERE Wine rea1on
v�un
..
�""'' w Wine subrea1on
• llWAM>l.11 Notable prod t.
.
cer
Vineyards
!CO
Contour interval 100 metres
•I•
1 250,00
0
AWATERI VA LLEY
Awatere Valley 12 mllH (20km) s.outh ofthe Wa1rau Valley,
1s much cooler and harvest 1s 2· 3 weeks later than tn
Marlborou1h proper, and In Upper Awatere even later,
althoUlh budbt-eak 1s about the aame

Central Otago
The tourist mecca Queenstown can offer
some of the beat southern hemisphere
akllnl In the world, and spectacular
scenery all year round. Many a fo reigner,
particularly Asians and Americans, has
been moved to Invest here, some of them
attracted by the relative l1olatlon -
private jet1 are commonplace at
Queenstown airport. And wine Is very
much one of the attractions.
Te rrolr Glacial terraces with light,
fast-d raining loess and some gravel,
typically over weathered schist with
varying amounts of lime and clay.
Slopes are the norm.
Climate Semi-arid and, unlike the rest of
the country, extremely continental with
particularly sunny, but fa irly short
summers.
Grapes R: Pinot Noir; W: Pinot Gris
In 1997, there were JUSt 14 wine producers and
fe wer than 500 acres (200 ha) of vines in
Central Otago . By 2018, official figures put
the number of registered vineyards at 211,
drawing on 4,705 acres (1,904ha) of vineyards.
Four out of five vines are Pinet No1r, most of
them relatively youthful and a great deal of
their Juice vin1fied at contract wineries.
Frosts are a threat throughout the year,
and in cooler areas, such as G1bbston, even
the early- ripening Pinot occasionally has
difficulty ripening before winter sets in.
On the other hand, the summer sunlight 1s
blinding, but reliably cold nights preserve
the acidity the grapes need fo r quality. The
result 1s dazzlingly bright fr uit flavo urs, and
so much ripeness that wines with less
than 14% alcohol are relatively rare.
Central Otago Pinet No1r, like Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc, may not be the subtlest
wine in the world but 1t 1s easy to like almost
as soon as it 1s bottled.
The region's summers and early autu mns
are so dry that even the rot- prone Pinet No1r
rare ly suffers fungal diseases, and there is no
shortage of 1rr1gat1on water -although the
soils' water-holding capacity 1s very limited.
A golden past
The southernmost and most continental
subregion 1s Alexandra, without any large
body of water to moderate temperatures.
Summers are hot, winters very cold It was
originally planted in the 1860s, in the days of
the New Zealand gold rush, and then again in
1973, G1bbston, northwest ofhere, is even
cooler and sunlight hours are limited, thanks
C.1bb�1on Wine subregion
•PERl!GRI
N
E Notable producer
Vineyards
60
0
300 metres
-®-I
to the narrowness of the east-west val ley,
but the vines are planted on north -fac ing
slopes ofthe awesome Kawarau Gorge, site
of the world's first commercial bungee Jump.
In longer growing seasons wines from here
can have some ofthe most complex flavours
of al l Almost 70% of the region's vineyards
are in the Cromwell Basin whose climate 1s
moderated
0
by Lake Dunstan and includes
Bannockburn, Lowburn, Pisa, and Ben d igo.
Bannockburn, where the gorge meets the
Cromwell Basin, Is one of the most
intensively planted sub regions. Like so many
fine wine areas, this was once gold- mining
country Be ndigo to the north, also re latively
warm , is rapidly being planted with vines, but
cellar doors are much more common than
wineries here There is also great potential
at Lowburn, on the warm western shore of
the lake, and at Pisa, where north-fac ing
slopes ascend into the fo othills .
,,.
Nl'.W ZEALAND
371
The most northerly subregion ofall, Wanaka,
was one of the first to be developed, in the
1980s. Rippon's vineyards (now biodyamic) are
right on the lake, which usefully reduces the
risk of frost and moderates any extremes of
weather Vines, blue water, golden autu mn
trees, and distant snow add up to a picture
photographers don't try to resist.
North Otago
North Otago now has its own wine region,
Waltakl Valley, where prospectors are
banking on the limestone, unknown in
"Central", to match Burgundy's - although
they, too, have to cope with the perennial
risk of frost, cold winds during flowering. and,
of course, young vines. So far only 136 acres
(55 ha) have been planted, by 13 growers,
including a few from Central, mainly with
Pinot No1r and Pinet Gris, and some Ri esling
and Chardonnay
'.
E
T

378
South Africa
The finalists in the world's Vineyard Beauty
Contest include the Douro, the Mosel, a
Gre
e
k island - and the Cape. It is the white
Dutch-gabled far msteads in a sea of
vineyard green under the Slmonsberg;
blue-shadowed stacks of granite against
the azure sky that tips the scales; an
irresistible image of timelessness - which,
like so much that seems immutable in this
book, conceals tectonic change. In reality
South Africa's people, its vineyards, its cellars,
its wine map, and its wines have changed m
the past 25 years out of all recogn ition.
South African vines thrive m a climate cooler
than latitudes suggest The Cape benefits
from the cold Benguela Current from
Antarctica that was hes its Atlantic coast.
Rain here 1s usually concentrated in the
winter months; just where and how it fa lls
depends on the Cape's extremely diverse
topography Prevai ling winter westerlies
temper the climate; the fu rther south and
west, and nearer the sea, the cooler and
better the supply ofthe rain that has been
so precious here, too, in recent years. Rai nfall
can be (relatively) heavy on either side of
such mountain chains as the Drakenstein,
Hottentots Holland, and Langeberg ranges,
yet dwindle to as little as Sin (200 mm) a year
within only a fe w miles The mountains also
play a part m fu nnelling the Cape Doctor, a
powerful southeaster that can ward off rot
and mildew but can also batter young vines.
Ancient soils
Cape wine prod ucers like to boast that
theirs 1s the oldest geology m the wme­
growmg world: ancient weathered soils,
typically based on gran ite, Table Mountain
sandstone, or shale, which naturally curtail
OLD VINES
the vigour of the wines. Much Is now also
made ofthe fa ct that these soils nurture
the richest floral kingdom on the planet;
b1od 1versity has become the mantra of the
South African wine industry. Wine producers
are encouraged to preseiove natu ral
vegetat ion and add fe at ures to
,
their land
to attract ecotour1sts Reg1strat1on of single
vineyards, which must be smaller than
15 acres (6 ha) and planted with a single
vine variety, 1s encouraged, their names
appearing on wine labels from 2005.
Lacking the equivalent of, for exam ple,
Australia's vast mechanized inland wine
regions, South African wine producers are all
too aware of the need to deliver something
more val uable than low prices to survive.
About 80% of the South African grape harvest
1s now sold as wine, the rest being either made
into grape-1 u1ce concentrate, of which South
Africa 1s a major prod ucer, or distilled.
The structu re of the South African wine
industry today 1s very different from the
stifling regi me that governed wine-growers
for most of the 20th century, although
co-ops and former co-ops are still extremely
important, processing almost 80% of the
country's grapes.
As soon as apartheid and 1solat1onism were
abandoned m 1994, a new generation of young
wine prod ucers trave lled the world, soaking
up techniques and inspirat ion. Freedom was
celebrated by a rash of experimental planti ngs
m new, typically cooler, regions Just as
sign ificantly, some of the older wine regions
have been re -evaluated , notably Swartland (see
p.381), and Ohfants River even fu rther north.
Considerable new capital has been invested
m the Cape's wine industry, but profitab1hty
has been so elusive - recent droughts have
G
\i
=
)
l :7.:";J
One of the more benign legacies of the KWV organization that used to rule South
African wtnc production with u h an iron grip is l h e vineyard regi;,tcr, with ils details
of var1et1e' pla nted , dale of plan ting, pre ise area, and so on.
PLANTED
lljUI
Tlu. , t oget her with the zeal of v1lteultunst Rosa Kruger, who ha. done so much Lo put
farmcn, of old vmcs t oge t her with a m bitio us oung Cape winemakers, particu larly but
hy no nw ans cxclt1'>1vely In wa rtland and poi nts nort h , has resu lted in the Old Vine
PiOJc•ct, Jaund1cd 1n 2017 More than2,500ha(6,180 acre ) ofvines are more than
:JS year<, old and a good lllll d oflhc. e have potential for fi ne w111e. slgniflcanl
proport ion 1s Chc1111 1 Blanc on lhe west coJ�l Te n Cape vineyurds are more than
!00 years old The proJecl 1 ; dc>i!(ncd lo preserv e !'hr> h eri tage .
Once <1 v m eyanl t'> offluully ccrt illed, wine made from it may carry an Old incs sc:il
with Llw year of pln nlmg, J much mort• rigorous ,y.,tcm than that 111 Euro pe , where
.,o for tlw1 e ore nu control' on what may be deo,tr1bcd :1 > vtetl/es v1gne1o (In Fre n t h), a//1•
R<'l>en ((,u m.t11) vecchie 111gn e (ltJ ltan) , v111a rie1a.� (Spmu sh), vrnya .1 vel/a• (Culala n ) ,
01 1•111flw; ve/h11
1
(Po1 lul(U t''t')
not helped - that the total vineyard area has
been steadily s hrinki ng. The official total had
fa llen to 236,665 acres (96,775ha) by 2016,
with crops such as wheat and citrus planted
instead. In some particularly dry areas,
vineyards have simply been abandoned
The total number of wmer1es has remained
fa irly constant at around 570, but acquiring
land on the Cape 1s so complicated that
many of the constantly changing roster of
prod ucers share premises.
Regions, districts, and wards
The Wine of Origin (WO) scheme first gave
official recognition to regions, d1str1cts, and
wards (the smallest geographical entities) m
1973, and new names conti nue to be added as
the vine conquers cooler, higher land. The
most important are mapped here and on the
following pages. But so many producers
vm1fy fr uit from scattered vineyards, o�en
blend mg widely, that the WO Coastal region
(the southern hinterland ofthe Atlantic
coast) and the even vaguer Western Cape
appellation (for virtually anywhere in Cape
wmelands) are common on labels, especially
m export markets.
Tu lbagh, to the 1mmed1ate east of
Swartland, hemmed m on three sides by
the Winterhoek Mountai ns, 1s another
red iscovered wine district Its soils as well as
exposures and elevations vary enormously,
but diurnal tem perature var1at1on 1s reliably
high; mornings can be exceptionally cool
as cold overnight air sits trapped m the
amphitheatre formed by the mountains.
Further north, Namaqua at Vredendal, with
nearly 12,400 acres (5,000 ha) of vines, has
shown that lower latitude need not mean
lower quality. Much of the crisp Chenin and
Colombard that can make South Africa seem
the world's best source of bargain white wines
comes fr om up here m the Olifants River
region, especially its Lutzv1lle and C1trusdal
d1str1cts, where there are some old vines with
considerable potential. Bamboes Bay, a ward
on the west coast, produces much finer
Sauv1gnon Blanc than might be expected
at this latitude Altitude 1s the advantage of
the separate Cederberg ward, Just east
of Ohfants River, as it 1s of one of the most
interesti ng recent expansions: vineyards m
the Sutherl and - Karoo d1str1ct off the map
to the north. These new vineyards, in the
Northern Cape rather than Western Cape
Province, are the h ighest and most
continental m all of South Afri ca. Lowe r
Orange, also off the map to the north, is even
hotter m summer and depends heavi ly on
1rr1gation from the Orange River, Much work
has gone into vine trellising to protect the
grapes here from the relentless ·unhght.
Summer temperat ures 1n Klein Karoo th<
great eastern sweep of arid ml .nd rub, re
so high that fortified wines, mad e possible

only by 1 rrlgat1on, are the local spec1al1ty,
along with some red table wines, and
ostriches (for their meat and fe athers)
Musc ats and Douro Valley grapes such as
Tinta Barocca (Barroca 1n Portugal), To ur1ga
Nac1on&I, and Souzio thrive he re. Portugal 's
port producers have been keeping a wary
but respectful eye on developments, notably
1n the Calitzdorp district, which routinely
produces the trophy- w inners in South
Africa's fortified wine classes.
A litt le closer to the gentle infl uence of the
At lantic, but still so warm and dry that
irrigat ion 1s de r1gueur, are Worcester and
Breedekloof in the Breede River Valley
region. More wine is made here than in any
other Cape region: more than a quarter of the
country's entire wine output Much of 1t ends
up as brandy, but this 1s the source ofsome
well- made com mercial wines, too
THE CAPE'S WINE REGIONS
Only the most important wards not shown
on the detailed maps are mapped here
Robertson, fu rther down the Breede River
Valley towards the Indian Ocean, can boast
good co-op wines and one or two fine estates.
Add to this enough limestone to support a
stud fa rmmg industry and you have a district
good at white wine, particularly JUICY
Chardonnay that is useful for some of the
best Cape sparkling wines and m blends.
Robertson reds have a growing reputation.
Rainfall is always low, summers are hot, but
southeasterlies help to fu nnel cooling marine
air offthe Indian Ocean into the valley
Cape grapes
South Africa's default grape until the late
20th century was Chenin Blanc (often called
Steen). The new wave was all about red ,
often re placing 1t But Chenin, especially old
bushvme Chenm, has been reassessed . It 1s
still the m ost-planted variety, even 1f 1t now
represents fe wer than one vine m five.
The second most- pl anted variety 1s also a
wh ite wine (and brandy) grape, Colombard .
But much more often seen on labels are
Sauv1gnon Blanc and Chardonnay. Both can
make fine wine 1n the Cape's cooler vineyard s.
Shiraz, increasingly cal led Syrah, 1s
challenging Cabernet Sauv1gnon as the most
planted red There has also been a reappraisal
of the Languedoc variety Cinsaut, once
widely planted Today, the mantra among
KmO
Mtlo.O
1 2. 175,00
0
25
50Km
25Mtlo.
'
/''
l_f' --/ J
) Johannesbur;
/°"'
v
Cape vine growers 1s d1vers1ty, ai ming for
sustai nability In a drying, wa rming climate -
hence more varieties regarded as
Med iterranean . The pungent Plnotage,
South Africa's own crossing of Pmot No1r
and Cmsaut, can be found either as an
answer to Beaujolais or as a more serious,
1f sti ll fleshy, mouthful Both have their
advocates. Red wine prod uction here has
long been plagued by leafroll viru s, which
stops grapes ripening fu lly. One of the
greatest challenges 1s to ensure that the
heavily quarantined plant material proves
ro bust and healthy
But without doubt the potentially greatest
evolutionary step 1n South Africa 1s social It
has not proved easy to share more eq u itably
ownership and management of an industry
run for so long by the white minority There
have been plenty of setbacks, but the
introd uction of an et hical bottle seal
(encouraged by some major importers,
notably the Scandinavian monopolies) may
help. Some people hope that eventually the
country's black majority will become a
significant market for its wine. Black
empowerment schemes, Joint ve ntures,
better wages and housing, and "soc ial
upliftment" have all been undertaken, by
some more than others. Nevertheless,
impatience 1s - sti ll - understandable.
COASTAL REGION Wine of Origin region
SWARTLANP
�nUvi.ti•
CAPE:OINT
-
Wine of Ongin d1stnct
Wine of Origin ward
Notable producer
Wine producing area
Land above 1 00
0
metres
Area mapped at larger scale on page shown
IND/A N
OCEA N
The Cape 's most southerly
vineyards are fo und in Elim ward.
Cape Agulhas
I•
E
;-

•
•
380
SOUTH AFRICA
Cape To wn
For virtually al
l
fo reign visitors Cape To wn,
in the IH ofTable Mountain, is the gateway
to the wine country. In 2017, 1t became an
official wine d1str1ct (see map on previous
page). Along with many an ambitious
restaurant, a handful ofwineries are located
within the city itself. Two notable ones are
Dorrance and Savage.
Of the four previously established wards
within the Cape Town district, Philadelphia,
extending north towards Swartland, 1s, at
least currently, of least importance
..!
!.
Durbanvllle to the immediate south 1s
c_
practically m the Cape Town subu rbs and
can easily be underest1mated, but the nearby
At lantic bri ngs nights cool enough to yield
truly refreshing whites and wel l-defined
Cabernet and Merlot. Hout Bay, around the
wind-lashed bay on the west coast, 1s best
known for the Ambeloui sparkling wines
Le1endary sweetness
The best-known and most prolific of these
wine-prod ucing wards 1s Constantia, a name
revered throughout the world m the late 18th
and early 19th century for its dessert wine.
The core of the original vast estate, known as
Groot Constantia since 1714, went insolvent
and became a state-owned model fa rm m the
late 19th century. In the 1980s, its neighbou r
Klem Constantia planted small-berried
Muscat Blanc with the express purpose of
producing, m d1stmct1ve half-litre bottles
rem iniscent of the old Constantia, a sweet
Vin de Constance, made from dried, not
botryt1zed, grapes A similar wine, Grand
Constance, 1s now made on the restored
Groot Constantia estate
Today, Constantia 1s a particularly pretty
southern suburb of Cape Town Land prices
are consequently high . Vineyard expansion 1s
limited and has been confined to the steeper
Constantia Wine of
Origin ward
•Sl1l
lNl
ll
ll
lG
Notable producer
Vineyards
Woods
-50
0-
-
Contour Interval 100 metres
National Park boundary
t
Soils in Constantia are
deeply weathered, acid,
and reddish brown with a
high clay content, except
here around Uitsig, where
sand predominates. It 1s
vines In these soils, the
warmest and lowest in
Constantia, that ripen
their grapes first
177,AO
O
KmO
l
2Km
�-
--
-'-
-.,.
..
.._.
INlo
o
0
lMilo
eastern, southeastern, and northeastern
slopes of Constant1aberg, which is effect ively
the eastern tai l of Table Mountain.
But this corner of the Cape, effectively a
mountai n amphitheatre that opens directly
on to False Bay, produces some of its most
d1stmct1ve dry wi nes. It 1s constantly cooled
by the Cape Doctor, the southeaster that
blows in from the ocean, although the
hum1d1ty means that fu ngal disease 1s a
c o mmo n threat The Doctor helps
The grape ofchoice today m Constantia's
1,040 acres (420ha) of vineyard is Sauv1gnon
Blanc. It represents a third of all the region's
vines, with Cabernet Sauv1gnon, Merlot, and
Chardonnay a long way behind. The relative
cool helps retain pyrazme, responsible for the
grassy aromas typical ofSauvlgnon. Perhaps
the most dramatic examples are the smgle­
vmeyard bottlings of Klem Constantia.
Sem1llon, m the early 19th century the
most-planted grape in South Africa, can also
be outstanding. Excellent exam ples of both
have also been made by Constantia U1ts 1g.
Despite the pressures of urban development
(and the occasional marauding baboon from
the mountai nous nature reserves nearby),
several new w1ner1es opened In Constantia 1n
the early 21st centu ry, bringing the total to 11,
some ofthem tiny
Two more producers ofexcellent Sauv1gnon
Blanc and Sem1llon he either side of the
Constantia ward boundary In even cooler,
w1nd1er conditions Steenberg is now a thriving
re<;ort with spa and 1olfcourse, while Cape
Point Vineyards has earned a reputation for
ome of South Afr1ce!s f\nfft whites
Oc e an, mountain, and •"-n a ready supply of
wa ter No wonder Cape Poin t Vin ey ards on
c.
..
'hapman's Bay has done ao -11

Swartland
On the decidedly fluid South African wine
scene, It Is Swartland that has under1one
th• most dramatic transformation of all.
Climate Hot and dry, cooled by breezes off
the Atlantic to the west .
Te rrolr Mainly granite and shale under
Oakleaf, Tukulu, and Klapmuts soils.
Grapes W: Chemn Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc;
R: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage
For years Swartland was a name visitors to
the Cape seldom heard, and locally was
associated with mere ingredients fo r the
c o -o p s . The bigger operations here still
prod uce plenty ofthat, but in this century
this swathe of land north of Cape Town has
become the source of some of South Africa's
best wines from a new wave of eager
winemakers. Most of th1s vast area 1s
undulating wheatland, green in winter and
burmshed gold in summer. But in certai n key
areas the ochre 1s punctuated by the green
of vines, typically unirr1gated old Chenin
bushvines planted in the 1960s to fe ed the
white wine boom, but also red wine vines.
Cabernet for quantity, Sh1raz/Syrah for
some stu nning qual ity. Old vines and dry
fa rming are the signatures ofthe d1str1ct.
Re-evaluation of Swartland began in the late
1990s, when Charles Back of Fairview set up
the Spice Route estate. Its first winemaker,
Eben Sadie, was quick to real ize its potential
and in 2000 produced his groundbreaking
Syrah -based blend, Columella This was
followed in 2002 by Pal ladius, based on Chenin
Blanc. Both blends, derived from several
different vineyards managed but not owned,
have been much emulated, and Syrah and
Chenin continue to demonstrate their affi nity
with Swartland, with Pinotage, Cinsaut, and
Grenache showing good potential, too.
Supply and demand
At first, attention was fo cused on the foothills
ofthe granitic Perdeberg (Afrikaans), which
receives more cooling Atlantic air than most
of Swartland. Vo or Paardeberg (Dutch),
the eastward extension of Perdeberg, is
technically a ward of Paarl but is more like
Swartland in character. The shale and clay
mountains above R1ebeek-Kasteel have
since been planted, and the pretty little
town has become an unofficial wi ne capital
Johann Rupert of Franschhoek-based
AnthonlJ Rupert bought vineyards here
Boekenhoutskloof of Franschhoek developed
Porselemberg, a wine fa rm on a R1e beek
h1lls1de, to supply it with fine Syrah. Mullineux
{
i trree burg
"
'"�
(
(
�
Mal
lne
sbu<y
t
THE HEART OF SWARTLAND
s� RT
l
I
0
)
)"
SOUTH Af'llUCA
H1
'
..
.
..
.
(
Herma ;.
"
c;uc/
it
LANDjJ)
K�nonkop
(
..+�
)
("1("
-1
r1-"?i
I
I
I
"'-
(/
I<'cl:�
I
(
I
'°
\
l\r:
\
�\ 2(. .io PORSELEl,�d RG
�\
))I
\
\
,;,)1
I
I
R4s
l\
\-,,.
..
--/ �
?�
I 18500
0
�
The map on p.379 shows just how small a proportion of
Swartland 1s mapped here, but for the moment this is where
most of the new wave of ambitious producers are clustered.
Many of them buy grapes from land further west and north in
the Olifants River region, particularly in Citrusdal Mountai n ,
where Piekenierskloof 1s a popular source of fine Grenache.
MALMESBURY Wine of Origin ward
•Ml
lWNl
ll.IX
Notable producer
[=
=:J
Vineyards
Woods
so
o
-
Contour interval 100 metres
Fam ily Wines of R1ebeek-Kasteel meanwhile
created a stir with their single-terro1r Syrahs
grown on granite
.
and schist The Mullineux
winery 1s on the same hillside as the Rupert
vineyards and Boekenhoutskloof's second
Swartland fa rm, Goldmine.
Many of the young bloods of Swartland
are drawn to "natural" winemaking and
have formed the Swartland Independent
Producers organ ization, which imposes
AOC-like rules on production and has its own
seal To qualify for the seal, wines have to be
vm1fied m Swartland, which rules out several
prom inent prod ucers Many less well-fu nded
prod ucers throughout the Cape, but
particularly in Swartland, share premises
and may not own a single vine Vine-growing
tends to be in the hands ofAfrikaans fa rmers
who have been in the region for ge nerations,
and many a young winemaker has to depend
on a handshake for their grape supply.
The Darling wine d1str1ct is offthis map
to the southwest but 1s an enclave within
Swartland Its ward, Groenekloof, 1s also wel l
exposed to cool sea breezes and has built up
quite a reputation fo r its crystalline
Sauv1gnon Blanc, pioneered by Neil Ellis.
Darli ng 1s virtually on Cape Town's doorstep,
making this pretty part of South Africa an
easy trip for wine tou rists.
•I
0
T
E
'

382
SOUTH AFRICA
The Stellenbosch Area
South African wine has historically been
foc used on the area mapped opposite, its
centre Stellenbosch - a leafy university
town surrounded by Arcadian
countryside, whose curling white Cape
Dutch gables are the beautiful clichli
of the Cape. Along with the important
Agricultural Research Centre at N1etvoorb1J,
South African wine academe 1s based here,
too, now with students of all backgrounds,
mcludmg the least privileged
Virtually all of the Cape's most fa mous wme
estates are m the Stellenbosch district, as
well as the maior1ty of the finest wmes and
the lion's share offoreign investment A new
generation, much more fam iliar with the wider
world of wme than their parents, seems
determined to maintain the area's reputation
for fine reds of all sorts and commendably
fresh, sometimes ageworthy, Sauv1gnon
Blanc, Chardonnay, and Chenm Blanc. Their
fa mily legacies are still delightfully apparent,
though, m such historic estates as the
8th-generation Myburgh's Meerlust, the first,
1n 1980, to bottle a Cabernet blend, Rubicon,
and Vergelegen, the mansion of the second
Governor ofthe Cape, Willem Adr1aan van der
Stel, nearer the sea at Somerset West and
now Anglo-American's showpiece winery
The soils of Stellenbosch vary from light and
sandy on the western val ley floor (historically
Chenin Blanc country) to heavier soils on
mountai n slopes and decom posed granite at
the foot of the S1monsberg, Stellenbosch,
Drakenstem, and Franschhoek mountai ns
1n the east (the last two ranges bemg in
the district ofFranschhoek rather than
Stellenbosch). The contour Imes on the map
opposite are enough to hmt at its varied
range ofterro1rs In the north, further fr om
the sea, temperatures tend to be higher, but
the climate 1s in general pretty perfect fo r
wme grapes. Ramfall 1s just about right, and
concentrated m the winter months, summers
are only slightly warmer than Bordeaux.
Chenin Blanc, once overwhelmingly
dominant, was long ago overtaken in acreage
by Cabernet Sauv1gnon, Shiraz, Merlot, and
Sauv1gnon Blanc Blends have long been
important, too, whites as well as reds, with
Cape blends, conventionally including at least
30% Pmotage, bemg particularly distinctive.
Kanonkop was long regarded as the star
of Stellenbosch and the king of Pmotage,
although there are now countless young
pretenders, of which diamond-financed
Dela1re Graff(w1th a luxurious hotel and
restaurant), DeMorge nzon, and b1odynamic
Reyneke are among the most accom plished
Glenelly 1s the retirement enterprise of
May-Eliane de Lencquesamg, former
chatelaine of Chateau Pichon-Lalande
The secret seven
So established and so varied are the
vineyards ofStellenbosch that there has been
time to analyse its soils and climates minutely
and subdivide what 1s offic ially a single d1str1ct
m the Coastal Region into seven wards. The
first ward to gain official recognition was
S1monsberg-Stellenbosch, i ncluding aU the
cooler, well-drained southern flanks of
the imposing Simonsberg Mountain . (The
heavy-hitti ng Thelema estate, not a wine fa rm
when the boundaries were drawn u p in 1980,
Is excluded) Jonkershoek Valley ts a small but
long- recognized area m the mountains ofthat
area east of Stellenbosch, while the equally
minute Papegaalberg sits on the opposite side
of the town, buffering it from the thrtvmg
ward based on the sheltered Devon Valley.
The much larger, flatter, and more recent
Bottelary ward to the north takes its name
from the hills m its far southwest corner.
Banghoek and Polkadraa1 Hills to the west
completed the carve- up. For the moment,
these names are rarely seen on labels.
Producers see the simple name of
Stellenbosch as more marketable (in a paral lel
with Napa Valley's and its sub-AVAs).
On the whole the best wmes come from
estates on land open to southerly breezes
from False Bay, and/or high enough in the
hills for altitude to slow down ripeni ng.
The imposing Helderberg mountai n running
northeast of Somerset West is an obvious
fac tor m local wine geography, for exam ple,
and on its western flanks are many
winemakmg high-flyers. Br1t1sh-owned
Waterkloof lies at the southeastern fo ot
ofthe range, spectacularly sited above
Somerset West and providing a rare
combination of b1odynam1c fa rming and
ambitious restau rant.
Once the hub
The d1str1ct ofPaarl, fu rther from the cooling
influence of False Bay, 1s no longer the fo cus of
the Cape wme scene that it was in the fortified
wme era, but 1t 1s where the once-omnipotent
KWV and Nederburg, the latter fa mous fo r its
annual wine auction, have their headquarters
Some fine table wines are made here by
producers such as Fairview, Glen Carlou and
Rupert & Rothschild. V1lafo nte, an ambitious
Ame rican -owned winery in Stellenbosch, also
grows its grapes 1n Paarl.
The Franschhoek Valley to the east (only
partly mapped here) is also recognized as
a wme d1str1ct in its own right. It was once
fa rmed by Huguenots and Is still distinguished
by its French place names It 1s In lovely
country, a tourist magnet th robbing with
hotels and restau rants, enclosed on three
To th e delight of vla1tors, more than 1,000
Indian runner ducks - natural peat control -
parade dally In the Stellenbosch vineyards of
Vergenoegd L6w, now German -owned

Cap Class1que sparkling wine such as Le Lude
and Col mant Boekenhoutskloof has long
been one of Fran&chhoek's most outstand ing
wineries, with some ofthe area's oldest vines.
It now has sister operations m Swartland and
Heme! en ·Aarde. Leeu Pas sant 1s an important
new lndlan -ftnanced wine and hospitality
enterprise with wlnemakmg expertise
provided by Mulhneux of Swartland.
Welllniton, with greater diurnal temperature
variation than areas closer to the coast, 1s
made up of a varied mixture of alluvial terraces,
stretching towards Swartland's ro l l i ng cereal
country, and some more dramatic sites in the
foothills of the Hawequa Mountai ns
Cape To .\J
+
\N'
I
..
•
NlllllO�KI OOI
TH"" STf�LENBOSCH AREA • SOUTH Afl'llUCA
IH
W•ll1ngt�
•
flOI 1\1>
lMfil. Wine of Origin dlstroct
J&al.P.
.
\Jl
l
t.:Y Wine of Origin ward
UANONIOP Notable producer
Vineyards
Woods
50
0
Contour interval 100 metres
Weather station (WSJ
ST ELLENBOSCH, FRANSCHHOEK, AND PA ARL
Virtually all ofStellenbosch and Franschhoek's wine country 1s
mapped here, but Paarl's extends much fu rther north than this
map and even, in the case ofVoor Paardeberg ward, as far
northwest as the southern edge of our Swart land map
STELLENBOSCH: IETVOORBIJ 'Y
Latitude Elevation of W
· 33.9° I 479ft (146ml
Ave rage grow ing •ca on temper.turc at \V
67.5°F (19.7°C)
,\1 crage annual rarnfall at WS
29in (736 mm)
aV m(,l llGI �
MOllGI �� l[R
1 19.5,0
00
Harve�t month ra mfoll at W
March: 1.1ln (29mm)
Principal >1l1cultural hazard;
Leafroll virus
Prinu1i.1I p;rap v,met 1es
t-
-
�������-'
i-.
����
..
..
.
��
�
10Km
R : Cabernet Sauvignon, Shlraz/Syrah, M orlot,
Pinotage; W : Sauvignon B l anc, Chenin Blanc,
Chardonnay
MhoO
•I

D
£
384
SOUTH AFRICA
Cape
South
Coast
Cooler climates beckon winemakers around
the world. It is hardly surprising that
Africa's southern tip, with its cool Antarctic
influence, has been colonized by the vine.
In 1975, a ret ired advertising man, Tim
Hami lton Russell, took a chance with Pinot
No1r in the Hemel- en -Aarde Val ley above the
whale watc hing resort of Hermanus. Now,
the Walker Bay district has a dozen wineries
and has sprouted six wards, the three most
important having Hemel- en -Aarde 1n their
name. Bouchard-Finlayson and Newton
Johnson in the Hemel-en-Aarde Val ley
followed Ham ilton Russell's lead . The
aromatic, balanced wi nes grown here and 1n
neighbouring districts on the south coast
(see p.379) make a distinct and exciting
contr1but1on to the Cape wine scene.
The chain of Hemel-en-Aarde val leys,
cooled by the Atlantic, still feels remote
and wild. Its climate grows more continental
as one ventures inland, with some of the
vineyards north of the mapped area
regularly seeing snow in winter In the area
mapped, summers are hottest and winters
coldest 1n Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. Although
average rainfall is 29.5 in (750 mm) a year,
supplementary 1rrigat1on 1s needed in some
inland sites, especially those on weathered
shale and sandstone Fortunately there 1s
enough clay in places to allow dry-fa rming of
Burgundy's grapes. The area was the pioneer
and sti ll has the Cape's highest proportion of
Pinot Noir and grows excellent Chardonnay,
but the consumers' favo urite, Sauv1gnon
Blanc, has also become increasingly popular
with growers.
Between here and Stellenbosch to the
northwest, the old apple-growi ng district
of Elcln has had experimental vine plantings
since the 1980s, but at the turn of the
century the Pau l Cluver estate was the only
wi nery The debut 2001 vintage ofAndrew
Gunn's Iona Elgin Sauv1gnon Blanc inspired a
wave of investment Longstanding grape­
growe r Oak Val ley 1s now an established wine
prod ucer, too, and many other apple-growers
planted vines albeit some of them reverting
to orchards because they are more
profitable. Prod ucers such as Tokara and
Thelema vmify their Elgin grapes at tti.1r
Stellenbosch w1ner1es, while other incomers
have built their own cellars
Vineyards are as high as 650-1,380f't
(200- 420 m) and, thanks to prevai ling winds
I•
offthe At lantic, the average Fe bruary
temperature is below 68°F (20°C) Harvest
here 1s one of the latest on the Cape Annual
rainfall can be as high as 39 1n (1,000 mm),
but low-vigour shale and sandstone soils
help ward off fu ngal diseases. Racy whites,
including especially crystal line Chardonnays,
are Elgi n's speciality, but some fine Pinots
have been made, and Richard Kershaw has
shown JUSt how successful and refi ned Elgin
Syrah can be.
�
m
ooc
()()i
<:fi'
50
0
t •IOM
Mf
tc/re b
c:t>
4fl
JlJ.lil
li
District boundary
IJQll!lm:
Ward boundary
•IONA
Notable producer
Vineyards
�
50
0
Contour interval 100 metres
P'ROM IELQIN TO WALKER 8AY
Th• dynamic Wal ker Bay dl1tr1ct has been divided
Into 11x wards, three of which are shown here.
Warmly dressed grape -pickers at Iona show
1ust how cool this high, windy site m £/g m 1s -
one of the coolest m South Afr ica .
Other opt1m1sts planted the Cape's most
southerly vineyard s, in the teeth of salt­
laden winds east ofthe village of Elim in the
hinterland of Cape Agulhas , the very ti p of
Africa. Bracing Sauv1gnon Blanc was Elim's
original calling card, but the Cape's other
fas hionable variety, Shiraz, is also promising.
I 251,fX
XJ
Km
s
101(m
t-����--
-
���..
..
..
�..
..
.
Mlo
o
O
SMlo
o
l.Alflll . - -
It!111I<l
l
�"'
\Jrd\ \.illt ')-,.�
.42
tj/
Hermanus

Asia
Asia, not long qo r•1arded as th• on•
continent of no relevance to the world of
wine, has become pivotal to Its futu re.
Chrna, discussed in detail subseq uently, on
an increasing number of pages fo r each
ed 1t1on of thrs At las, has not only become a
significant wine producer, rt is also seen as a
market wrth vast and irresistible potential by
wine producers the world over. But they
have also been encouraged by how quickly
wrne consumption has established rtself in so
much ofthe rest of Asra as a cultural signifier
and ge neral marker of western ization.
Japan, considered in detai l overleaf, was the
first Asian country to develop a wine culture,
including sometimes hrstorrc vineyards and
wines of rts own. But today, wine rs produced
not JUSt in the Central Asian republics, the
" -stans", which have a long history of growing
vines and making (traditionally rather syru py
though now improving) wines, but in such
unlikely countries as Indra, Thar land, Vietnam,
Taiwan, Indonesia (Bali), Myanmar/Burma,
and Korea. Each ofthese has a fledgling wine
industry, and there are individual fa rms
wrth vineyards rn each ofCambodia (near
Battambang), Srr Lanka, Bhutan, and Nepal.
Vines here would naturally prod uce several
rather vapid crops of grapes a year, but in
most cases are persuaded to produce less
often but better quality by judicious
pruning, trimming, watering, withholding
water, and/or the application of various
chemicals and hormones .
A tricky home market
India's swelling, increasingly westernized,
and prosperous middle class has inspired a
domestic wine industry which, unlike most
Asian ones, rs almost wholly dependent on
locally grown grapes. Producers have to
battle cumbersome regulatory and fiscal
regimes which vary from state to state, as
well as major problems wrth transport and
storage rn a hot climate. But the imposrtron of
particularly heavy duties on imported wines in
2005 encouraged Indian producers ofgrape
wine, which, in 2018, numbered 56 (some exist
Si"mp ly to sell fruit to other producers). Some
states are lega lly dry, but both Maharashtra,
fr om 2001, and now Karnataka, offer
lncent1ve.s to local wrne producers. A
sub&tantral proportion of Maharashtra's
wlAerUls- are tnt-he undulating country around
the holycity of'Naehlk, where relatively high
eleva:tiOns of
f
•et the low lat itude.
Wine has became a ser10us interest
fo r many well-heeled, younger Ind rans,
part1C\JI� (but not exclusrvely) those wrth
experience of western -cultuf"es. RaJeev
Samant, for instance, retur0$d to Indra from
Silicon Valley rn the mrd-1990s with California
wine sensibilities and set about making frnh,
fruity, dry white wines, most notably Sula
Sauvrgnon Blanc. Sula's debut vintage was
2000, producing 5,000 cases, but by 2017
annual production was 10 mrllton bottles -
half the country's total production. Samant
claims that hrs Nashik winery is the single
place on earth where most people have their
first-ever taste ofwine
The Grover fa mily's highly successful wine
operation rs older and was established in the
Nandr Hills above Bangalore in Karnataka
The company, known as Grover Zampa
Vineyards after amalgamating wrth Va llee de
Vin in Nashrk Valley, is now In the hands of
an extremely am bitious outside investor
Another impressive Indian wine operation is
the heavily Italian- infl uenced Fratellt in Pune.
The Sangrovese-Cabernet blend Sette is
rts flagship.
The vines are never dormant in Indra, but a
rough prune before the summer monsoons
and then a more careful one rn September
result in Just one harvest each year in March
or April. Dams fo r 1rr1gat1on are a necessity
Outside the subcontinent
To urism and altitude have encouraged the
establishment of two wine producers, both
growers of international vinrfera varieties,
in Myanmar/Burma, in Shan state.
Myanmar Vineyard s started in the late
1990s and the French - influenced Red
Mountain Estate in 2003.
Thailand's wine industry rs older and
bigger, though much smaller than Indra's,
wrth eight wineries armed more at tourists
than locals. Its roots go back to the 1960s,
when vines were planted mainly for table
grapes in the Chao Praya DeltaJust west of
Bangkok. Today, the greatest concentration
of vi neyards, most of them growing
international varretres, rs in the Khao Var
region northeast of Bangkok at altitudes up
to 1,800ft (550 m). The biggest producer,
Siam Winery, also has some vineyard s and an
ambrtrous tourist centre in the hinterland of
the resort of Hua Hin on the southweste rn
Gulf of Thailand, only 10 degrees north of the
equator Srlverlake Winery lies ac ross the
gulf near the popular resort of Pattaya.
Wines are at I.east competently made, and
the most conscrentrous producers try to
harvest just once every 12 months, even
though rt rs quite possible to prck five crops
every two years.
The srx winery members of the Thai Wine
Association in three Thai regions form an
ad mirably cohesive whole - as well they
Sula ofNa.•hik, we•tern Ind/a i• one ofthe most
outward-facing wmerle• anywhere m the world.
The viaual value ofbr1ght/y co/ow-.d saris to
fore ign vls ttors Is not undereatlm ated.
might rn a country wrth some powerful
forces dedicated to ban ning alcohol
altogether It rs common practice
throughout Asra to supplement local ly
grown grapes wrth imported wine or grape
concentrate, but the Thar Wine Association
1ns1sts that rts members label wines clearly
as non Thar rf the imported component
Is above 10% welcome rigour in wi ne's
newest territory
French colonists introduced viticulture to
the highlands of southern Vietnam and near
Hanoi in the north more than a century ago .
Chateau Dalat, owned by a large food ­
processing company, rs cu rrently the most
successful grape wine, based on vineyards
around Dalat and on the coastal plain i n
Ninh Thuan
Just eight degrees south of the equator,
the rsland of Bait in Indonesia grows more
than 250 acres (100 ha) of vi nes, mainly but
not al l table grape varieties, for wine Trained
on pergolas to combat the humidity, they
typically prod uce a harvest every three
months. Hatten was the pioneer but five
wineries now operate, three of them vinifying
locally grown grapes in ad drtron to imports.
Since 2002, when the government in
Taiwan disbanded its alcohol monopoly, a
local wine industry has been established
Japanese hybrid Black Queen and Golden
Muscat are commonly planted in the west
of the country, often for sweet wines
The 60 wi neries in the south ofSouth
Korea tend to be very small, and often
process fruits other than grapes. Thanks
to the severe winters, the most common
varieties so far are Japanese hybrids Muscat
Bailey A and Campbell Early.

c
0
0
'
Japan
The Japanese palate is fa mously refined.
No other country has an association of
sommeliers thousands-strong. Japanese
sake in all its nuances is becoming fas hionable
and appreciated aro und the globe. Japanese
winemaking is now al most as polished But in
constructing Japan, nature seems to have had
almost every form of pleasure and enterprise
1n view except wine. Although the latitude
of Honshu, the main island ofthe Japanese
archipelago, coincides with that of the
Mediterranean, its climate does not Like the
eastern US and indeed northern China (lying
in the same latitudes), 1t suffers from having a
vast continent to the west. Caught between
Asia and the Pacific, the greatest land and sea
masses in the world, its predictably extreme
climate is peculiar to itself. Winds from Siberia
freeze its winters, monsoons from the Pacific
and the Sea of Japan drench its springs and
summers. At the precise moments when the
vines most need sunshine they are often
lashed by typhoons. V1t1culture 1s a continuous
struggle agai nst high humidity during the
growing season, with the rai ny season in June
and July, and typhoons that make landfall
between July and October
The land the typhoons lash 1s hard-boned
and mountai nous, almost two -thirds of1t
so steep that only the forests prevent the
vo lcanic, ac id soil from being washed into
the short, turbulent rivers. The plains have
all uvial soils, washed fro m the hllls, poor­
draining and good fo r rice, not vines. Such
little ge ntly sloping arable land as exists 1s
consequently extremely val uable (for tea,
inter aha) and demands a high return
It 1a not surprising, therefore, that Japan
has hesitated about wine, he11tated, that
Is, for about 1,300 years . History is exact .
Grapes were srown in the 8th century AD
at the court of Nara. Buddhist mlselonaries
spread the grapevine around the coontry
althouih not necessarily with wine In mtnd.
Merlot vines trained on traditionalpergola• in
Choteau Merc1an's Kikyogahara vineyard in
Nagano at 2,300� (700m) are protected from
the cold in winter by sheaves of rice atraw.
1 10,700,00
0
Km91-
-
--1
..,90
..
._
_
_
20
0
___ _i!09
..
..,.
Km
Moleo O
100
:zcio
Mlto
o
•TSUNO
WINE
Notable producer
Land above 10
00
metres
Nol
llb
leprod"
""
"
InNl
lpn
o
CHMl!l
lCIAN
(MARIKO) OllUSI!WINl!RY
llAYASl
ll
5rCOUSAIR
IZUl'SU
Sl
ll
ll'O
RY (SIUOJIRI)
KI
IlO
VIL
LA
D'lm
MNfolS (lOMORO)
•
•o_sum1 Ko,%
6sum�Shot6'/)ra ne-
-ga
- Slumo
Ya ku sn,moO
..
0•
..
A wine industry, inthe modern sense, has
existed since 1874: much longer than any
other m Asia. Japan's first outward - looking
government sent researchers to Europe in
the 1870s to study methods andto brmg
back vines. The roots of the country's biggest
wine producers, Mercian and Suntory, date
back to 1877 and 1909, respectively. And they
are far from the only wineries in Yamanashi
prefecture, the most important for wine
prod uction, with such long histories.
Unusual sr•P••
Ta ble grapes are important In Japan, and
the most widely planted vine variety is the
hardy Japanese Kyoho, fo llowed by American
hybrid Delaware Indeed, Kyoho ac cou nts for
31% of the total area ofJapanese vineyard,
but for wine production, Koshu, then Muscat
Bai ley A followed by Niagara account for
43% of the total.
Muscat Bailey A, a Japanese- bred hybrid,
can make some quite decent red wine, but
JAPAN'S WINE PRODUCERS
Japan's thousands of islands extend from
latitude 24 to 46 degrees north, so local
conditions for vine-growing vary enormously,
but the main challenges in the central
prefectures, which have the most vineyards,
are humidity and fu ngal diseases In summer.
the most distinctive grape used for wine
and the one most read ily as sociated with
Japan by foreigners, 1s the pink-skinned
Koshu. This mostly vinifera variety of
mysterious origi n seems to have been
grown in Japan for several centuries .
It was or1g1nally a table grape but is
well-suited to winemakmg in Japanese
condition s . Its thick skins withstand damp
well and 1t can make confident, delicate,
subtle but well-balanced whites, both oaked
and non-oaked, s weet and dry With each
succeeding vintage Koshu prod ucers seem
to become more fam iliar with the variety
and more accomplished at turning It into
interesting wine, although chaptahzat1on
11 often necessary.
Grape-growing tends to be in the hands of
contract growers, in vineyards that are often
meticulously maintai ned but are small by
International stand ards, so grape pricos are
high Only about 13% of Japan's vineyards are
owned by wine producers.

YAMANASHI
Yamanashi prefecture i. the cradle of
the modern Japanne wine lnduatry
It 11 conveniently cloH to major cltiea,
Inconveniently denHly populated - so
many vineyards are relatively small,
and 1hoehorned Into the basin.
1 700,00
0
KmO
10
201Cm
1-
-
..-..-..
.,.
..
..
..
.
..-__,,.
._
..
..
Milot0
10Mi
iot
---
Prefecture boundary
• ll!JUN Noted vineyard
Vineyards
Contour interval 30
0
metres
'f' Weather station (WS)
t
Today, the Japanese wine market, which 1s
blessed by considerable expertise and some
refi ned palates, 1s dominated by Mercian,
Suntory (which has wine holdings elsewhere,
notably the Medoc classed growth Chateau
Lagrange), Sapporo, Asahi, and Alps Wine.
These ftve account for 85% of all wine
prod uced in Japan.
Wine described in Japan as "domestically
produced" is bottled in Japan but has long
relied on the add1t1on of imported bulk wine
and grape concentrate, often from South
Ameri ca. The average proportion of local
grapes 1n this wine has been rising, however,
and reached 25% in 2018.
Interest in genuinely Japanese wine
production is unprecedented, so that in 2018
there were 303 wineries - many of them
ad m ittedly tiny - and wine is now being
produced in 45 of Japan's 47 prefect u res.
The most important ofthem being those
with lowest rai nfall - not just Yamanashi but
also Nagano, Hokkaido, and Yamagata.
The historic heart
The wine industry was based from the
start in the hills around the KOfu Basin 1n
Yamanashi prefectu re - overlooked on all
the postcards by Mount Fuji and convenient
for the capital. Yam anashi remains the
I•
centre of Japanese wine prod uction with 81
wineries, many of them with historic roots
Yamanashi also has Japan's highest average
temperatures and the earliest budbreak,
fl owering, and vintage But Nagano has been
catching up. It 1s as sunny as Yam anashi, with
an an n ual average of about 2,200 hours of
sunshine, and 1s less prone to monsoons .
Nagano grows some of the finest Japanese
wine, and can now boast 35 wineries The
cool, high Sh1011r1 district, at 2,300ft (700m)
1s known fo r its Merlot Northern Nagano,
known as Hokushin, flanking the Chikuma
River, has established a reputation for its
Chardonnay and both regions are prod ucing
fragrant Merlot. The high land around Ueda
has managed to grow both Syrah and
Cabernet �ranc s uccessfu lly. A httle Albarino
grown on sandy soil In Nllgata prefecture has
created waves 1n Japan
In recent years, Hokkald6, the coolest,
northernmost island, rarely infl uenced by
rai ny seasons or ty phoons and perhaps
helped by global warming, has as many
wineries as Nagano, even though its average
annual hours of sunshine are hardly more
than 1 ,500. It first made its mark with Kerner
grapes, but its Pinot No1r has been interesting
enough to attract investment from Etienne
de Montilla of Burgu ndy, no less. Yamagata
I•
JAPAN • AllA
.-7
The snowy summit of
Mount Fup rises above the
Kofu Basin.
YA MANASHI: KO FU
Latitude / Elevation ofW
35.67° / 922ft (281 m)
Ave rage growi ng sea on temperature at W
69.3 °F c20.1 ·ci
Av erage annual rainfall at WS
45in (1,136mm)
Harves t month rainfall at W
September: 7. 2in (183mm)
Principal viticultural hazards
Rain, summer typhoons, fu ngal diseases
Principal grape varieties
W: Koshu, Delaware, Chardonnay;
R: Muscat Bailey A, Kyoho, Merlot
prefecture, also in northern Japan, has made
some promising Merlot and Chardonnay
In the south of Japan, Kyushu 1s known for
refi ned Chardonnays and light, sweetish rose
made from Campbell Early grapes.
Attempts to promote and export ftne
Japanese wine are being supported by
the Japanese government. Wine laws
are being rewritten with the hope, even
expectation, that the Japanese wme
boom will be heard abroad
•<
E
..
F
o

38
8
ASIA
China
In a fast-changing world of wine, no country
has evolved as rapidly and dramatically as
�
China. Grape wine was virtually unknown In
China in the 1980s but tod� the fa mously
numerous Chinese constitute the world's
fifth most-important consumers of wine.
I
c
So efficiently have vines been go ing into the
ground that between 2006 and 2016 China
more than doubled its total vineyard area to
over 2 milhon acres (847,000ha) - more than
any country other than Spain However, the
vast ma1or1ty of v1nes, as much as 90%
accord ing to some estimates, 1s devoted to
table grapes with some for drying into raisins
Among those who can affo rd 1t, including a
burgeoning urban middle class, wine has
been one of the most potent s1gn ifiers of
the westernizat ion of China. Average wine
consumption in the Chinese population may
be only 2 .1 US pints (1 .4 litres a year) but, until
the economic slowdown ofthe late 2010s, it
rose at such a rate - almost 10% a year - that
Shanghai and Beijing became even more
popular destinations for wine exporters than
New York and London. The first wave of
hopefuls came from Bordeaux Red Bordeaux,
or wines purporting to be red Bordeaux (fakes
were rife), dominated wine sales in China in
the 2000s. But Chinese wine drinkers are
very much more knowledgeable (wine courses
abound) and experimental today. Burgundy
mama replaced Bordeaux mania but, thanks
to cunning free trade agreements, Austral ia
and Chile dominate the mass market.
Until capital controls were imposed, many
Chinese entrepreneurs invested in Bordeaux
petits chdteaux - over 100 of them . China
supphes the biggest cohort ofwine students
at Bordeaux University other than the
Fre nch. The Chinese are also major investors
in the Austral ian wine indu stry.
Ancient orlslns
The vine was known to gardeners in far
western China at least as early as the 2nd
century AD when wine, very possibly grape
wine, was certainly made and consu med.
European grape varieties were introduced to
eastern China at the end of the 19th century,
but 1t was only in the late 20th century that
grape-based wine Insinuated 1tself into
Chinese (urban) society.
BHARATA
(INDIA)
International boundary
Provincial boundary
t:!.fil! Wine-growing province
•LO
O
LAN
C=:J
Notable producer
Land above 100
0
metres
Area mapped at larger
scale
Bo Ha1
1.ol000
0
,00
0
�
KmO
m
IOO
O
Km
Mo'lo
o
O
250
mMa.
<f,'¥,'/fto,Jf1a
p
..
We ihai
"'?
0
()
on� eng
y1Jfun
•
N
CHINA
�
'1'si<Jlf
'
./
J;,bonan
.
("
le Ing
."'""
HEBEi AND aHANDONQ
The modern eraofChin••• wine began here.
There are now dozens of wlnerlH, including
those owned by auoh 1ianta u Chantyu and the
1overnment-owned COFCO, aa well aa wi ne
fac toriH around Yantal proceaaln1 va1t
amounts of import9d bulk wine
1 5,128,00
0
KmO
.!JO
100
1.!JOKm
Ml
lo
o
D
l-
-
�--'�-
.!J0
--"-��..
.
100"4ilot
•I•
izhoo
Provlnc'al bot.ndary
•ll
llAIJONI
)
Notable prodU<.er
- Area with vines
J'J r Gredt Wall

China's love affair with grape wme - putaopu
as opposed to merepu, meaning any alcoholic
drink - was encouraged by the state, partly m
an effort to red uce cereal imports. According
to the most recent OIV ftgures, China has
been the world's sixth most · Important wme
producer since the turn of the century,
makmg1 14 billion litres of wme m 2016. But
independently verified Chinese stat1st1cs are
hard to come by, and Chinese wme bottlers
have notoriously bumped up prod uction
with imported wine, grape must, grape
concentrate, and even liquids completely
unrelated to grapes Things are changing,
however, as an mcreas mg proportion of
consumers know what wme ought to taste
like The days of soda being added to ftne
wme to make 1t palatable are long go ne.
In the early years of th1s century, 1t was
difficult to ftnd wines labelled as Chinese of
any real qual ity. So fa shionable was anything
presented to Chinese consumers as a fa ir
copy ofred Bordeaux that there was little
incentive to try very hard (For lingu1st1c
and cultural reasons, the average Chinese
consumer has strongly favoured still red
wme; very little wme sold m China sparkles)
Until President Xi's crackdown m 2012, wme
was a popular "gi�" In bu•mess circles,
which encouraged many produ cers to put
more effort and money m the packaging
than the liau1d
In the vineyard, thanks to early Bordeaux
infl uence, Cabernet Sauv1gnon, and to a
lesser extent Merlot and Cabernet
Gernischt (Carmenere), dominated and sti ll
dominate planti ngs, but 1n the early days,
wines were typically underr1pe and over·
oaked By about 2010, however, an elite of
carefully made, truly Chinese· grown wines
began to emerge and continues to expand.
Marselan, the modern crossing ofCabernet
and Grenache, has ac hieved a qual ity
deserving a following, and the varietal range
1s slowing broadening, with the thick skinned
Petit Manseng val ued for sweet whites.
Long-yan , a table grape, 1s vm1fted, even
val ued, by some prod ucers and results m a
light, inconsequential wh ite. Ital ian Riesling
and Chard onnay are widely planted .
Extreme weather
Chma's vastness
0
offers an mftnite range of
soils, altitudes, and lat itudes. Climate 1s
more ofa problem. Inland Chma suffers
continental extremes so most vines have to
be ban ked up palnstakmgly every autumn
to protect them from fatal ly free zing
temperatures. This ad ds considerably to
production costs, not least because a
certain proportion of vines are lost each
year from being manhandled, but 1s currently
just about affordable The conti nued
move ment of the Chinese fro m countrvs1de
Chateau Changyu Moser XV 1s typical ofthe
grandiose bwldmgs erected as part ofambitious
wine estates in Chma . In this Joint venture the
Moser 1s Austrian winemaker Lenz Moser.
to c1t1es, however, means that mechanization
of th1s laborious operat ion is increasing. The
earlier vines can be uncovered , the less likely
they will have sprouted vulnerable buds.
The Chinese soils that are so painstaki ngly
shovelled onto the vines every November
and unbanked every spring are ge neral ly
dangerously low 1n ac 1d 1ty.
Meanwhile, much of the coast, especially
m southern and central areas, 1s subject to
monsoonal rams m July and early August
alter very dry winters and springs With a
mariti me climate that requires no winter
protection of vines, Shandong offers
we ll-drained, south-fac ing slopes. The ftrst
wineries and vineyards of the modern era
were established there.
This 1s where about a quarter of China's
hundreds of wmer1es are now based, but
fu ngal diseases are a threat most summers
Average yields are as high as 135 hl/ha here,
much higher than m the drier inland wme
regions. Changyu was the pioneer, founding
a winery here as early as 1892, and Is still by
far the dominant prod ucer.
Amb1t1ous wme to urism projects are the
norm. When, 1n 2009, the owner of Chateau

A
•
•
c
390
ASIA · CHINA
Lafite decided to establish a serious winery
in China, rather to the surprise of industry
observers, 1t chose a hilly site in Penglai that
has since been surrounded by other
enterprises designed to lure wi ne tou rists.
Lafite's first wine, mainly Cabernet, was
released in 2019.
Further inland, Hebei province is second
only to Shandong in terms of wme output
(though 1t can be difficult to track the origin
ofeverything bottled there) It has the
advantage of being even closer to Beijing,
and on the tourist trai l to the Great Wal l.
With less rainfall than Shandong but more
than Nmgx 1a, 1t benefits from a fa irly long
growing season for vines that have to be
buried during the worst months ofwinter.
Some particularly amb1t1ous wine "chateaus"
cluster around HuaHai.
The far northeast of China, Dongbei
(Inner Manchuria) has proved suitable for
lcewine prod uction, from Vidal, R1eshng,
and some dark-skinned hybrids of the local
vine fa mily, V1tis amurens1s, such as the
Beibinghong grape
Grace Vineyard was established in Shanxi
o
province 1n 1997 by a fa mily based in Hong
Kong. By 2004, it was producing some ofthe
best wines in China, including a sparkling
wine and China's first Aglianico, on an estate
in Taigu on loess-dominated soils. Monsoons
can reach as far inland as here but
temperat ures are ge nerally moderate. The
Grace team has, like many others, been
exploring other provinces fu rther west.
D
'
Gans u , whose Hex1 Corridor has one of
China's oldest v1t1cultural traditions, has also
attracted foreign investment - in this case
from Mihalis Boutar1s from Greece, who has
been making a creditable Pinot Noir at his
Gansu Moen estate in Tianshui. Mogao, the
largest winery in this area, began life as a
medical opioid producer but d1vers1fied into
wine - of variable quality. Soils can be rather
heavy in Gansu, while a lack ofboth labour
and warmth has dogged some Shaanxl trial s.
Between Shanxi, Shaanx1, and Gansu 1s
N lnpla, the most wine - minded province of
all Ningx1a's local gove rnment was
determined to make its reclaimed land - at
arou nd 3,300ft (1,000 m) altitude on the
gravelly east-fac ing banks ofthe Ye llow River
- China's most important wine province,
although the likely effects of a recent regi me
change are as yet unknown. Irrigation from
the river 1s vital because annual rainfall
averages 9.8-11 .8 1n (250-300 mm), which,
u nfortunately, tends to fa ll in late s ummer
Vines are buried every autumn (see p.18)
Vineyard s, and wineries, now ski rt the fo ot of
the Helan mountain range, most of the best
above the Ye llow River's alluvial flat s .
Pernod Ricard and LV MH (for Chandon
sparkling wine production) were some ofthe
first to be lured to set down roots here, and
II
both the tentacular giant, state - owned
COFCO and Changyu, originally based in
Shandong, have JOined the many significant
prod ucers of all sizes in Nmgx1a Smaller
producers ofnote include Silver Heights,
Kanaan, and Helan Qmgxue, all of whom make
some of China's best red Bordeaux blends
The wlld west
In extremely arid Xlnjiang province 1n the far
northwest, ingenious 1rr1gat 1on systems
harness meltwater from some ofthe highest
mountai ns in the world . But the growing
season is short - sometimes too short for
wine grapes to ripen properly - and the
vineyards are thousands ofmiles from
most consumers
The Tien Shan (Heaven Mountai n) range
divides the massive region into northern
and southern parts, with the Turpan-Ham1
Basin tothe east. Annual rainfall is as low
as 2.8 -3 .1in (70-80mm) and there can be
massive temperat ure differences between
day and night.
When LV MH sent Australian wine
consultant Dr Tony Jordan to find the
perfect place fo r red wine production 1n
China, he eventually settled, after fou r years'
research, on a clutch of tiny mountain villages
on the Tibetan border in Yunnan, in the
upper val leys (at al most 9,800ft/3,000 m) of
the Mekong and Yangtze rivers, where French
missionaries had planted vines much earl ier
Winters are warm enough to obviate the
need to bury vines, and monsoons do not
reach this far inland. The resulting wine,
-
Provincial boundary
Eastern Side of Helan
Mountain wtne region
Notable producer
Vlneyar.ds
="20
00
Contour interval 50
0m
• Weather stabon (WS)
11.333,0
00
KmO
20
AOKm
1-���..
..
..
��-r-�
Milo.0
NORTHERN NINGXIA
Ningx1a authorities actively
encou raged investment from both
Chinese and foreign wine companies
on the all-too-well-drained slopes
between the Helan Mountai ns and
the Ye llow River. Sheep fa rmers
from less hospitable terrain in the
south of the province were shipped
m for vineyard labour and re housed .
NINGXIA: YINCHUAN
Latitude / Elevation of WS
WS 38.28" / 339� (1,111 m)
Average growing season tempera ture at WS
63.9°F (17.7°C)
Av erage an nual rainfall at WS
7.2in (183mm)
Harve t month rainfall al WS
October: 0.96in (24.5 mm)
Principal viticu ltural hazard
Drought, winter fr eeze
Principal grape varieties
R : Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet
Gernischt (Carmenere), Marselan; W: Ital ian
Riesling, Chardonnay
Ao Yun, 1s not underpr1ced but confi rms his
choice. Other wine producers have followed
his lead.
All in al l, things have evolved enormously
since the 1970s when the Chinese drank beer
and sp1r1ts Tak ing advantage ofth1s change
in drinking habits, the Hong Kong government
craftily reduced duty on wine to zero in
2008. (Duties are stlfl punitive over the
order in mainland C hina. ) Since then Hong
Kong has become Asia's fine wine hub, not
Just where well-h eeled Chinese buy their
wine, but where huge quantities of the
world's flnest bottles are u ncorked . The
world's fine wi ne trade buzzes around this
honeypot like no other
•I

Index
Ch•t.aux, domalnn, 9tc apl)Mr under their tndJYtdual nam
fh• prlnctpal ret.r.nc. to • topic a,.
.
lndteat.ed In botd
Pap number• in ltollc.t ret.r to IHustratlon caption•
�HA 113
A Dom 3ee
Aalto 1115
Aof'l
ll
u21!1
A-• 294
1'bldal 200
Abldtl do Poblot 200
Abadi• R.tuorta 1115
Abboccato (doftnltlonl 155
Abourlou &rap• 114
Abrau Durso winery 277
Abtaber1 227
AbymH 162
Accolade W•nH 353, 354,
381
AcM!a Clau11 283
Achaval Ferrer 339
Ach1, Paul 281
Ackarman'1 cellars 119
Aconcqu1 336-336
Ackerman N9
Adema, Tim 353
Adorns fomlly 355
Ad1ntl 181
Adep (det'ln1tlonl 207
Adelaida 320
Adelaide 22
Adel1lde Hiiis 355, 3S8
Adeneuer famlly 226
Adjll'I 279
..
._.,
,
285
A�lan Islands 184, 185
..
..
... 186
AosAmbells 284
A! Shirey! grope 277
A1e1ng wine 38-39 43. 1n
barrels 38, 36, 187
""orglt1kogrape 281, 283
Aghanlco del Vulture 183
Aghamco del Vulture
Super1ore 183
Aghamco grape 39,
Argentrna 339. China 390,
Italy 165, 182, 183
Agrelo 341
Aguascalientes 327
Ahr228226
Aidanl grape 280
AlllUtlhe, Ch d' 106
Alie d'Argent 95
..
.
...
.,
,
grape 17,20.189
Alary fam ily 136
AJaverd1 278
Alba 188
Alban 321
Albana d1 Romagna 165
Albania 267
Albany 347
Albaret, Condos de 183
Albar1fto grape Argentina
341, Japan 387.
North America 290, 294,
318, Spain 192, 193, 209'.
Uru1uo,y 332
Albarolall'lPO 167
Alberollo (definition) 165
Albosanl 1151
Albtllo Roal grape 189
Alblno Roc
c
a vlnoyord 161
Aldln1er 246
Aleatlcu grape 149
Alokl
ll1
droul1 11rope 279
Alolla 200
Alenquer 216
Alonteio 37, 207, 218-2111
Alexander grape 289
Alexander MountaJn E1tate
306
Alexander Valley 306
Al-.
.
dro 376
A1froche1ro grape 1811, 191
Alprve 208
Alprla 46
Al1blba 100
Allcanto 1SO
AJtcanto Souochot It'l
l*
Italy 175. Portupl 207,
213. 218. 219, Spoln 1112
Ah..,Ul"lPOCrimu277,
DNA analyai1 14, France
i;i;,56.ee.Romani• 212
273: Ruui& 277, Ukrmne
276
AhOn 194
Abra 273
Alkooml 348
Allemand, Th1•rry 128
Allende 198
Alllance Vlnum 180
Alber 123
Alm1 ROH 322
Alman1a 190
Almo•I•• 33e
Alme1d1. Jolo Nw:olau de 212
AlmlJort 203
AIOll 182
Alon·Corton es
1'lph1 Eotato 280, 282
Alplno Volley• 3e8, 3e3
Alps Wino 387
AIHCO 124-117
Alto Llnp 158
Alta Mora Mtate 184
Alta Vlota 3311
Altare, Ello 167, 163
Alt• Reben (deftnltlonl 13
Alton1hr 227
Altent>or1 (Bor1holml 127
Altenber& de Bergbleten 125
Altenburger. Marku1 281
AltoBIO IP'•P" 162
Alto Ad110 47, 165, 1M-1117
Alto Piemonte 156
Alupka 276
Alv1rlnho IP'IPI 207, 209,
219
Alvear 206
Alzlnpr, Leo 256
Amabile (deftnlt1on) 156
Amll'ante 209
Amorono 155, 169
Amarz•m (deftnlt1on) 207
Amayna 336
Amboise 120
American Canyon 312
Amertean Vlttcultural Area
sea AVA
AmoroJlhl, Stefano 172
Amery 355
Amlgne grape 250, 262
Am1ndeo 280, 282
Amp811o. Ch 106
Ampuis 130
Ampuls Ch d' 130
Amsfelder 267
AmtHche Prufungsnummer
(AP Nr) (dofinlt1on) 225
Anatolia 285
Anc:1ont Lal<os 299. 30
0
Anama Concept 284
Ancellota grape 339
Andalucf1 19, 203-20&
Anderson Valley 304
Andlka Rodge 323
Angas Vineyard 356
Anplus. Ch 106. 110
AngerhofTsch1da 260
Angludot, Ch d' 98
Af1l1Uerl, Joon d' 200
Angulx 195
Anheuserfamily 236
Aniana 142
Anina 204
Anjou 116, 118
Anjou Blanc 118
AnJOU Roup 118
Anjou.Yillaps 118
Anjou·Vlll..
.
• Brlosoc 118
Annita (definition) 156
Ano (definition) 191
Annlml 168
Anap.r CIUHerath 230
Ansonlca &rllP9' 185
Antlo Vuarope 218. 219
Antic& 312
Antlnort 174, 178, 180, 181.
186. 272 . 312
Antlnorl, Lodovico 174. 175
Antlnorl , P1ero 174
Antonlolo 166
Antoniotti 166
Antonopouloa 283
AoYun 390
1'0C (Appoll1tlon d'Orllin•
Contr61Ml Fronce 40, 41 ,
620 Swltzorlond 251
AOP (Appellation d'Orlatn•
Protolf
f
)40,52
AP Nr ... Amtllcho
PttMunpnummer
Apalta 336
1'Plltl. Cloo 337
Apkhaatl 2711
Apotheko vtnoylrd 230
App&1
1
lmento (deftnlt1on)
166
Appollltlon d'Orllin•
Contr61oio '"" ADC
Appollotlon d'Orlatno
Proto..
.
_ AOP
APPoilltlono ..o
Ap!J91
1a
•ion Merlboroulfl
Wine sc:heme 40, 37�
Apponhe!m 231
1
Applepte Volley 294
Apr9m01
1
t112
Ar..
..
.
.,._ 16, 209, 21&,
21a.21•
Areujo 312
Arbtnatl 100
Arbln 152
Arblnano 188
Arbolo 150, 181
Arch1m-... Ch d' 100
Arcln1 98
Arcino, Ch d' 9e
Arenl Nolr v•po 277
Arpntln1 330, 338-341
chmate 21, 28, vineyard•
48, wine production 49
Arttolu 1ee
Arl)'rldn 284
Arlnto do1 A�ore1 207
Artnto FIPI 207, 208, 209
216, 218, 219
Arrnzano 197
Arlone 183
Arizona 328
Arkanaa1 2QO
Arlanza 189
Arlot. Clo1 de I' C54
Armacnac 115
Armallhac:, Ch d' 113
Armand, Comte 82
Armenia 277
Arnauld, Ch S.8
Arnols 1rope 158, 188, 345
Arou1ana 193
ARPEPE 156
Arras 386
Arnboa 1811
Arroyo Grande Valley 321
Arroyo Soc:o 316
Arruda 216
Arruflac vape 116
Arsac 98
Artadt 1110, 197
A�m11 Domalnes 131
ArtoSI do Segre 200
Artuke 199
Arvlno l"IPO 260, 252
Asaht 387
Ashton Hilla 356
Aoll 386-31
1
0
Aslll vlnoyord 160, 161
Asolo Proaec
c
o 164
Aspr6kambos 283
Assmannshluser
Sp&tburgunder 23C5
1'ssyrt1ko l"lPO 280. 282,
283
Astor 195
Aotl 158
Astlano 158
Aszu, Tokaj1 264
At& Rlngt 370
Atacama Desert 335
Atoturk, Kemal 286
Atauta 195
Athens 280, 281
Athlrl 1rape 280, 282
Atlas Peek 312
Attlc1 280, 281 , 282
Attmann, Stephan 242
Au Bon Cllmat 322
Auckland 368
Aufrlcht 245
Augusta 21
1
0
Auntaftald Esta.to 372
Aual••• (definition) 225
Ausone. Ch 25, 110. 112
Australla 34
4-31
1 climate
22. 23, 28, 346, lrrflatton
20, 23, New South Wales
3114-311
11
, phylloxera 27,
screw caps 37i South
Au1tralla 27, 360-367
Tumanla 3H terrolr 31,
Vlctorl1 19, 27, 361-383,
vineyard land pr1cH 47,
vineyard• 48, Western
Au1tral1a 347-341, wine
productlon 49
Auatrl1 284-281
Burpnlond 280-111 ,
Krematal and Kamptal
21
18
-HI, phylloxoro 27;
vineyard• 48, Wachau
218-257 win• production
49
Auxerrol1 &raP• 14, 1e, 227,
245
Auxey-DureHH 81
AVA (American Vltlcultural
1'reol 40,2llO
1'vallno V• 11
1
190
Aven1&n 90
Avu10 1rape 20Q
Av1ou1tlltl• Fll>O 282
Av11non 136
AvlgnonHI 180
Avila 196
A'llf'ICIS 273
llorHCle,1(14--
A111H 81, 82
Barton, Anthony 14
AwateN Valley 372, 373, 174
..rton. Lltlon IMS
AXA 112, 104 2116
ll•rwent 386
1'urquf1 203
llulllcet& 1113
A� 82
-etR1np 3&e
A)l
l
228
Bu• ll8
Ayze 162
El
l
H Phllhpa 30
0
1'Z11FlPO 209
Ba
aaerman
n·Jordan, von
Azoy·lo ·RldHU 120
242
Azo-lj1n 277
Ellatardo FlPO 1112. 213. '.2
2
1
Azlond1 OFlcOll (doftnltlonl
ll
l
•tl• 149
155
Buto 209
Azor•• 207, 207, 221
&tallloy, Ch 113
Azores Wine Company 207
Bltard Montrochet 00
Batlotl 348
BA,.
.
8Mrenau1IH•
Batroun 28
8
Bui. Dom do 2ee
EllttonfoldSponlor 23Q
81bcock winery 322
El
l
vorotock, David 218
Blboucl Noll!'l Flf>O 272, Bayonohlro FlPO 277
276
Bayonn• 114
Babttvope 211
eearn 114
llabo
o
oNoVoFIPI 1111
Beau 5'jour Bl
lcot,
Ch 108
Boc1lh6l Vlnho• 215
BuuSita,ChSO
BICIU 273
Beaucutel , Ch de 134, 138,
Bocchu1 F•PI 224, 24e,
320
2411, 2112
Buujolalo 54, 55, 72-Ta
Blch1rach 226
tp1n1 31
1
, Cruo 74-76;
Back, CharlH 381
Hrvln& -M, vineyard
Baco Nolr arape 2891 291
PMCff '47
Bid Durkheim 22
2
,243
BoouJol"'• v111.,.. 72, 73
Bld K..uzn1Ch 236
Booullou Vineyard 310, 314
Bld Krozl npn ·Schl1tt 245
Botumo 132
Bldocoony 2e3
Beaume1-deVen •H 138
Bidon 224, 226, 24
4-
241
1
Booumont, Ch lie
Baden, Mark&rafvon 245
Bea.une 82
Bldlt 1 Coltlbuono 778
Booureprd. Ch do 70
Bad11eh• Berptruse 245
Boblonholm 126
Badlacher Wlnzerkeller 244
Bechtholm 239
Baett11, Francleco 338
Beckor, Friedrich 242
Bap Fr1end1 218
Bockotoffor 313
B11•FlPO 201, 21e
Bockatof
f
or, Andy 314
Bactlo et..lna vineyard 184
Boochworth 358
Bagnoh FNularo 185
BHNO&UllHe (BA)
Boertn11rope 267
(doftnlt•onl 225
Bailo 209
B•pdan 88
E1
1
1rrld1 39, 207, 211 217
Bok&o Valley 28
8
B11x·Penad•s 200
Be1bln&hon1 &rape 390
Babco CorlO 211. 212
Be1ra lnter1or 208
Bo,i1 C1llfornl1 327
BolOrmo Tronquoy do
Baja Montaf\a 197
Lalonde, Ch �1
Blkator ll'lPO 262
Bola, Ch 2e6
Balotonbo&llr 263
Bela KraJ1na 289
llalaton fl
l
red Coopak 283
Belair. Ch no
Balbalna 204
e•1a1r-Monanp, Ch 110
BaJ1own1e 360
Boll!'lve. Ch 94
Bah 386
BollH1ll 371
Balkans, Western 287
Bell Mountain 326
llalllrd County 322
Belt&Rtva 358
Balmes Oauph1no1ses 152
Bellar1ne Peninsula 380
Balnavea 367
Bellarm•n• 348
Batt... Benedikt 247
Belle 133
BamboN Boy 378
Bolll Olmo 122
Bonat 273
Belle Vue, Ch 28e
Bondol 1e 148
Bel••. Francesco 164
Banft 179
Bellet 146
B1nJlhook 382
Bollulrd, Dom 152
Bannockburn (Australia) 380 Belvedere 276
Bannockburn (New Zealand)
Betvedera e1tate (ltajy) 174
375
Ben Zaken , Ell 287
Banyuls 144
Benanti famlly 1EM, 185
Saracco, Nino 186
Bendl&o (Austraha) 360
BaronJ1 270
Bendl10 (New Zealand) 376
B1rborosco 39, 47. 188, 160,
Benedictines 10, 67, 102
180-181
Bennett Valley 308
Barbaresco, Produttorl del
Bentomlz 203
161
Bontrock vtneylrd 319, 321
Barbera dAlbl 188
Banzipr 308,3QB.
BIJ'borad'Astl 188
Bercher 244
Barbera del Monferrato 158
Berelch Bernkastel 230
Barbera grape- Argentina
S.rprac 113
339 Australl1 345. Italy
Berlnpr 320
156, 188, 160, North
Borllquet, Ch 110
Amartca 322
Borlucchl fom lly 164
Barberam Htate 181
Borm�uol•FlPO 191
Barbier A•M 200, 202
Bornlrd ro mlly 102
Barboursvllle 323
Bornhort 242
Barca Velha 211
Bemkutel 32
2-
--323
Bardollno 164
Bernkaateler Alna 2�
El
lN
t, Ch 102
Berrouet, JHn · Claude 108
Bara• 130
BeN'Ouet , Olivier 108
Sarp. QlllH 130
Bortanl 1e9
Bar&Ylu1, Dom de 286
Bortrond·El
l
r1•. Dom 140
BIJ'kan 297
Bou0 Vall&1
1
275
Borolo 168 180, 161-1113,
Boull'da 132, 133
179, aaeln• 39. ..rv1n1 46, Be11u 132
value 47
Be1t'1 359
Boron• di Vlll1Flr1d• 186
Botaok 266
Boroquo 1rope 114
Beulwttz, von 227
Baro11a Ground• project
8'vy 58
350, 351
Beyohevell• 94
Boro
o
u Valley :15, 47,
l!loychovollo. Ch 114. 94
380-311
Beyer 1215
Barqufn, Je1U1 204
B•z•. Cloa do ee, er
Barranco 01euro 20�
B•ztoro 141
Barraud, Jullen 70
Bl1nco (do"nltton) 168
Barrel• 10, 35, 31
1
,36,187
Blanco di Cu1toza 184
Barreyre1, Ch s.e
Bloncu Gontlle lf'OPI 149
Barrua 186
Blbllt Chore 280
Barruol Lou11 324
Bleat .,._ 201, 21e
Barry, Jim 353
Blchot 55
Biel 261
ll
l
onNocldo 321
11
1
..
..
..
..
..
.
00
ll
l
orzo 1111, 1112
llli<Mr 293
IHlon 130
llndl 31lB, 30
0
11tnaon 240
91n1
11
Hlem 191
llollo337
Blodynomlc vltlculture 21
1
,
211,30,308,3C»
Biondi S1ntl 1711
91rd In Hind 3e
e
Blrkwe1ler 2-41
l!llrlcwollor Mondolber1
1
242
Blrdwo
od
3&e
Blll
l
mborl 254
!laerno eatate 1715
l!llttunl lf'IP• 217
B11oljt1n 2e11
Blzoljoko Sromkl 2811
Blzkalko 7>eakolln1 1811
Block Muoc:ot F•PI 297
Block Quoen 1rope 38li
Block Soi 279-27
7
Black S.
..
re11on (Turkey)
286
Black T1lmlyan1ky &rape '"
Tolmlyonaky Chomy FlPO
Blockwo
od
Volley 348
Bloeny eo
Blal1nan 88
Blanc (doftnltlonl 62
Blanc do bloncs (doftnltton)
80
Blanc d• Lynch Boen 116
Blanc d• Morpx et de la Salle
168
Blanc de noirs (deftntbon) 80
Blanchot 78
Blanck, Poul 127
Blanco (doftnltlon) 191
Blanco N•va lie
Blondy'• 221
Blanquette 141
Blus, Wolf 34
4
Slater• arape 167
Bllt1na ll'lPO 267, 270
Blatnlc• 28
8
Blaubura:under &rape 251
Blauw Wtldbacher &rape
265
Blaufrlnk1sch 1rape Auatr1a
254, 260, 261, 262, 26
6
,
Czech1a 266 , Sk>Yak1a
266, Slovenia 289
Bloye 86
Blaye C6tes de Bordeaux
100
Bleasdale 355
Bl•nhe1m 373
Blomldan Ettate 291
Blot, Jacky 121
Blue Mountain vineyard 24
Boalarapo191,210.220,221
Bobal FIPI 17, 1811, 190
Boca 158
Bock, J6ZMf 262
Bockenau 234
Bocksboutol 246, .247
Bod-(doftnlt10
0
) 191
Bod-GorzOn 28, 332
Bodep Plraneos 190
Bodopa Atal&1
1
1 191
Bodopa Fontlnl 191
Bod..
..
Frontonk> 190
Bod..
..
Gomll'l 203
Bodopo Hlbla 191
Bodep.a Lalanne 190
Bod.,.
.
Mjjop Vlra•n 203
Bodaps MonJ• 190
Bodeps Trw:ilctOn 204
BodNn 270
Bodro&keruztUr 265
Bookonhoutakloor 381, 383
Boiuk•ro lf'OPI 285
Boldonula FlPO 271
Bohemia 266
BOhll1 243
Bo1ssenot, Enc 96. 323
Bolsset 55
Bolsaet, JMn -Charlea 308
BolJlh•rl 174
BohVI& 330
Boll• 174
Bolllnpr 00 83
Bolzano 167
Bombino FIPI 182
Bol\l
l'da
ll'lPO (Arpntmol
339, 340, 341
Bonord• arope (ltalyl 166
Bondol&FlPO 251
Bonneau d• Martray 314
Bonnefond1 130
Bonn•• Mare& 85. e6
Bonnot, Ch 100
SonnuRUX 118
BonnlO fomlly 102. 341
Bonny Do
o
n31e
Boordy Vlnoyorda 281
1
INDIX
llop
p.tl'der
Hom
m
'.2
2
7
-N
lora-u• M-11
1,
-
-'ns31,311:CIUduVin
117,cllrnete 111, 22 M.Cru
Artlun • Cru loul"9'0l1
a. lmtory of Wlnemak1n1
10,11,14,leltbank 84.KM!,
Qvalde
e
Chartrono 102'
qualityInd- 48,
M-87, rllht bank 84,
1Clt-107 torrolr 25, 1M1
vtnoy1rd lond l)l"lC•• 47
yield• 211
Bordeaux SUptir190r &4, 100
Bordortown 34e
Sor•. Bruno 93, a4
llorle, F-0!1 Xlvlor 113
Borovltu 276
Borr..;al FlPO 1112
Borooo 11111
Boocorolll 180
llo
oco
ll'lP0167
Bo1n1a 2C57
Botrytl• (noble rot) 12, 27,
Auatrla 280; France 104,
118, 121, 125, Germany 226,
228, 238.231,240,
Hunpry 284; Italy 181,
Romania 272, Slovakia
288, Slovenia �
Bottolory 382
BoOlrd, Hubert do 110
Bouchlrd F1nl1yoon 384
Bouchlrd PltN et Filo 56. 62
Bourboulenc 1rape 138, 138,
140, 142, 148, 148
Bourg, Clo• du 121
eouvo
o
78
Bourpo 117
Bourpola, Henri 123
Bour_,. 65, 58
Bou- AlllQU 55
Bourao"'" Blanc 61
1
Bour_,. Ch1try 77
Bour10sno·COto Chaton,,.
..
.
88
Boul"IOI"• Cbte d'Auurre
77
eou.._,.c6tod'Or 56
Bou� Coulanps - la-
Vlneuse 77
Boursotne Eplneutl n
BourlOIM Paa
aetoutcr
aina
55
Bour1oen• Tonnerre 77
Bour1ue1I 120
Bournac, Ch 88
Bouscaut. Ch 102
Bousffd'Or 61
Boutar1 280
Bouta1r, M1hal11 :WO
Boutenac 140
Bouvier arapo 269
BouYltJes, Marbn and OhVMtr
S0, 119
Bouzeron 88
Bouzy 82
Bovalo Grondo 1r1po 1Be
BovaloSl
l'd
oll'lPO186
8- 367
BoxGrove360
Boyd·Cantonoc, Ch 98
Brit 270
Brac:hotto d'Acqul 188
Brachetto &rllPe 168
Bnjkovlch family 368
Bramaterra 156
Brana 114
Branalre-Oucru, Ch 94
Brenu Grond Poujaoux Ch
96
Bronco (definition) 207
Broncott 372, 373
Brancott E1tat11 38
8
Brond 127
llrtndboravtnoyord 2!U
Brano-Cant
o
noc,Ch 118,327
Bf'on
no
100
Branon, Ch 102
Bf'Ultlold 304
Brai.te01 1rapo 114
Bf'ouno Kupp vtnoyard 221
1
Braunetein, Bif'lft 261
B..
..
11 20.46,46,330,331
Brdoln,21
18
Bro
od
•RlwrValley 379
Bro
odo
klo
o
f3711
.,
,._,
,
..1&4
Breiaoch 244
B..
.._,
24
4
,�
Bremm 23
3
Bro
ooan
321
1
Brouy, JW0ma 131
1
BretBrothof'
s
70
llrouor231
1
Brouor.Go
ora
231
1,
237
B..
..
..
.,.
129
BriannaFIPI21
11
1
Brtce:o Bo&ch•• 162
Br1ctce. e.n1am1n 291
..
.

392
INDEX
Brldt• Pa Triancte 369
Brtd6ewo
od
Winery 321
Bnnch&I 113
Brtt1sh Cotumb•a 291, 112
Brochon 66
Brocksopp, John 348
Broke Fordwl<:h 365
Srokenwood 359
Brotherho
od
Winery 325
SrotMrs in Arms 355
Brouilly 75
Brov1a 162
Brown, Ch 102
Brown Brothers 358, 36
6
Brown Muscat arape 17
Bruce. David 316
Br\lderi>el'I 227
Brudersberc vineyard 239
Bruderschaft vineyard 230
Bruftal vaJ>e 189
Brunate 111neyard 162
Brundlma,yier 258
BNndelmayer, W1lh 258
Brunello d1 Montalc1no 16,
39, 44. 179
Bruno Roc
c
aVineyard161
Brunor1 172
Brusset famlly 136
Brust1anu grape 149
Brut (definition) 80
Brut nature (definition} 80
Brutler, Edgar 273
Bryant 312
8U4f:ACO 217
Bucelas 215
Budafok 263
8ud1.1 ZOld grape 262
Bue 122
Buena Vista 308
Buenos Aires 341
Bugey 150, 112
Buhl, von 225, 242, 243
Bulgarra 48, 49 274-271
Bull's Blood 262
Bullas 191
Bundner Herrsc:haft 261
Burs Layen 234
Bul"laud. Bernard 130
Burgenland 290-291 266
Burgerspctal estate 246
Burges 132
Buruarten 226
Burgundy 14-79 ageing 39,
43-, r.hmate 22. history of
w1nemak1nc 11, p,.
.
1ces 47,
terro1r 25, vineyard l1nd
prices 47, yields 29
Burgwe1 243
Surina. Leo 363
Burkhn Wolf 242 , 243, 243
Burlotto, Comm GB 162
Burma se
e
Myanma1/B urma
Busby 361
Buach, Clemens 30, 227, 233
Bussay family 283
BuHla v�ney1rd 162
Bustos, Eugenio 341
Bueu1oeci de Bohotm grape
272
Buxy 88
Buzet 114
Br ea
re. 121
Ca· .l•i Frati 164
:a' d�1 801co 164
>J••1&4
(.
.
abard•• 141
Cab111aou 148
Cabernet d'AnJou 118
Cabernet Franc ,,.
.
ape
Ar1ent1na 339, Bulp.rl1
2715, character11t1e1 11
Cypru1 284, Czeehla 28e,
ONA an1lys11 1'4, France
84 86, 108, 110. 113, 114,
118. 117. 118. 119, 123, 141.
Ht npry 262, Italy UM,
167 170, 171. 17&, Japan
387 North America 292,
2113, 290, 300, 30SI, 312,
3· 4 323, 324 32&,
.Jru1uay J32
r at-ternet Gern11el"tt 1rapt1
189 lllC'
cabernet Mlf'IVll lf"aP9 288
Cabernet Sauv11non vape
a.pin& �. Mt. 43'
Ar.. nt.n.t !38, J38. 340,
341. Au1tr1lla 22, JQ, 347.
i4'r M9. )e.Q, 361. �&3
J5'1. 3&� 358 3&7 l62
:H5f. J8& Auetr1a 291
Brazil _Jl Bu11ar1a 2"14
27�. c.t\aracter11uc:1 14
C.h1.• JJJ 136 ..J7. C.:hlnf.
�a� 'KtO, ("llT'IN 211
l yprua ..:'.84 DNA anaty111
14Fa�a.tle.ti
it
200
11.14101llt113.1M. I
14. 148 141 �.,
,.,.
.
r
224 241. 243. Gl'f
fC
o 280,
harvesting S2. Hunpf")'
262, Ind•• 386. larul 287,
Italy 15'1 161, 1�. 165. 167,
170 172. 174. 11e, Lebanon
286. Moldo\la 276, New
Zoaland 368. 369, North
Amerlu 39, 292, 298.
300 304 30� 306. 309,
310. 311, 312, 313, 314, 315,
316. 319. 319, 320 323, 324
326, 327, Portupl 208.
219, Romania 272 273
Ru111a 277, Serbia 267,
servm& temperature 44,
Slovenia 268, South Africa
379, 390, 381 , 382, Spa>n
190, 191. 197, 198, 200, 201.
Ukraine 276, Uruguay 332
Cabr1•res 143
C•ceres. Marqu•s de 198
Cachapoal 336
CadUlac 100
Cadillac COtes de Bordeaux
86, 100, 101
Ctd1z 204
Caduceus 326
Cafayate 339
Cahors 113
C1.1aroasa 175
Calllerets 61
Ca1/lou Blanc 95
Cafrlo Tinto grape 192
Ca.rranne 136
Cal Batllet 202
Calabrese, Giuseppe 183
Calabria 183
Caladoc srape 215
Calamm 252. 253
Calatayud 189
Calchaqu1 Valley 339
Calera 317
California 289,301 322
Central Coast 303, 317,
31•-322 Central Valley
302, 31e Southern 326,
chmate 19, 28, 312 ,
1rrrp.tlon 20, 28
phyUoxera 27. Pierce's
01seue 27, sun protecbon
23, terroir 24, 29, wine
CharacteMltlCS 39 wine
trade 11
Cahstop 311. 312. 313
Cahtzdorp 379
Callqhan winery 326
Gallet 1rape 191
Calmont 23
3
Calon 5'1ur, Ch 90
Caluso Pass1to 158
Calvi 149
Cambria 321
Camensac. Ch 94
Campanha 331
Campanla 182
Campbell Early ,,.
.
pe385,
387
Campi Fle1r1 182
Campo de Borja 189
Campo de los Andes 341
Campo Ehseo 196
Campovande 157, 186
Campolargo 21e
Campc1 de Cima da Serra
331
Canada 22, 291-293
Canalolo Nero 1rape 176
Canary 11/ands 191
Canberra Dl1tr1ct 385
Canelone1 332
Cannan. Chrl1topher 200
Cannonau d1 Sarde&na 188
Cannonau 1rape 15, 18e
Cannubl vineyard 1 615, 162
Canon, Ch 110
Canon·Fron1ac 108
Canon la·Gatrel�. Ch 108
Canopy man.,ement 23, 29
Cantely1, Ch 102
Contemorlo, Ch 91
Cantenac 91
Cantenac· Brown. Ch 98
Canterbury 38
8
,171
Cantin• (d9ftnlt1on) 1615
Can�na ct.Ila Volta 1M
vantlna di Castello 101
Cantma T1rl1no 187
Cantina 10C1al1/eo
ope
ratlve
(deftnltlon) 16&
Cap do Fau..,.
.
a,Ch 10fl
C1pbe,.n, Ch QC
Cape Aaulhu 3&4
Capo Montello 341
1
. 372
Cape Potnt Vineyard �.
380
Cape So..ch ;°" 114
Cape Towt llO
(.
.ape
t Val 14l
C.splt•I F"
C.1pr11 Marco 111
Capr 182
Capuchlna 203
Capuc1n1, Clo. dea 127
Carabuft11r11rape 192
Caramany 144
Cara1telec Winery 273
C&rbonnleux. Ch 102
CarcqhJOIU 1rape 149
Cal"Cqhjolu B11ncu 1rape
1�9
Carcaveloa 215
Carema 166
Car11nan/Cartnena1rap1 17,
Chile 337, Cyprus 284,
Franc:
:
• 140, 142, 143. 144,
146, 147, Israel 287, Italy
186, Lebanon 2se. Spain
196, 189, 198, 200, 202
C1rlgnano d� Sulci1 186
Car1nyena grape 202
Carmel 287
Carmen•re g,.ape 14,
Ch>ie 334. 336. 337,
China 399. 390. Italy 170
Carm11nano 176
CARMIM 218
Carmlnoir 1rape 250
Carneros 302. 308-309, 310
Carnaros Dom 309
Carnuntum 254, 258
Carohnas'{Nor'th and South)
290
Caronne Ste·Gemme, Ch 96
Carras, Ch 280
Carrascal 204
Carr1cante grape 184 186
Carrodus, Or 362
Carruades 92
C&r'SO 171
Carson, Tom 361
Carthua1ans 202
Cartizze 1841
Casa Cutlllo 190
Casa da Passarena 217
Cua de Vlnurl Cotna,.I 272
Casa Lapostolle 337
Cua Madero 327
Casa Mqonl 327
Cua Marin 336
Cua Real 336
Casa Valduca 331
Casa vmlcola (deftmt.Jon) 155
Casablanca Valley 28, 336
Casavec
c
h1a d1 Pontelatone
182
Casaveochla 1rape 182
Case, Joan 323
Cue. Steve 323
Cue BasH 179
Cassis 147
Cutaan• 358
Castel. Dom du 287
Castel del Monte 183
Cutel family 96
Cutallo rape 208, 215, 218
Castell d'Encu1 200
Castell estate 247
Castilla. Camilo 197
Casblla, Fernando de 204
Cut>lla y L.On 188 1911, 1115
Cutelhna 178
Castelhl della Sala Htate
181
Castello d1 Nolve 161
Castello d1 Verduno 1e2
CUtelnuova Berardenp 178
Cu�ra, Ch 88
Cut11llono Fal lot
to
192
Cutlllon C6te1 de Sorduux
100. 101
1
, 107
Castra Rubra 2715
Caatres Gironda 100
Cutro, Alvaro 2145, 217
Catalol\ia •II Catllunya
Catalunya 20
0
-201
Cataman:a 339
Catarratto &rape 1784, 185
Catawba &rape 289
Catena Zapata 339
Cath1ard fa mily 102
Caucuu1 277-271
C.va (definition) 191 . 200
Cavallotto 162
Cave (deflnltlOn) 152, 207
Cave de Gen•ve 253
Cave de Ruoms 134
Cave de Taln 133
Cave Ge111e 331
C.vour Camillo BenlO,
Count or 180, 182. 183
Caymus 317
Cayup Lake 324
CayuH 294
Cue1 family 92
Cuotlort lllS
Codorbora J71
ColHta 196
Colootlal l Coq 354
c.lm,. Traeker 4�'J
Colier do Ca�noa 200
ConlOoro lli
i
ConciMlrape 15 111
1
Central Cout (California)
303, 317, 31• -322
Central Ota
ao
3111, 371
Central Valley (California)
302, 311
Central Volley (Chdo) 333,
334336
Cephalonla 282
Ceruuolo d'Abruzzo 172
Cerasuolo d1 Vittoria 184
Cerceal 1rap• 216
Cerequ10 vineyard 1e2
Corotto 768. 191
Ceroza rape 339, 340
c•ron• 100
C•rono, Ch do 100 •
Certan Giraud Ch 108
Cesaneae srape 166, 172
Cessnock 365
Cotto, LA 327
Chabla>S 252
Chabhs 54. 77-78 age1n1 39,
fl"Ost protection 18, 79 . 28.
78
Chacoll de Guetarla 189
Chacoll de Vizcaya 189
Chalk Hill 305
Chalone 317
Chambert Marbuzet . Ch
Chambortln 57,66
Chambory 162
Chambolle 66
Chambolle·Mu11sny 58, 65,
66
Chambourc1n vape 289,
365
Champ de Cour 74
Champaane 22, 40, 47,
I0-13 qein1 38. hlstof")'
ofwtne pl"Oduct1on 11
Hrv1nc 45. 1torln1 39
Champana 61
Champlain Valley of New York
326
Champoux 300
Chandon, Dom 360, 363
Chal\ar Punco 339
Chanel 110
Chlnos 69
Chan1Yu 388. 389, 390
Changyu Mose,. XV, Ch 389
Channln& Oauahters 324
Chonoon (Buraundy) 55, 62
Chanson (Rh6ne) 131
Chantegr1ve, Ch de 100
Chapadmalal 341
Chapel Down 249
Chapel Hill (Australia) 365
Chapel H•ll (Hunpry) 263
Chapelle 66
Chapelle des Bois 74
Chapttres, Clos du 66
Chapout1er 128. 130, 132.
133
Chappellet , Donn 312
Charbono vape 339
Chardonnay 69
Cherdonnay del Salento 183
Chardonney vape 76,
•l•ln1 38, 39, 43;
Ar1entlna 338, 341.
Australia 22, 346, 346 ,
347. 349. 349, 351, 355,
361
1
, 357, 368, 390, 361,
362, 3&4 , 3115. 311
11
, Austrlo
2&4, 256, 290, Brazil 331 ,
Bulprla 275, Canada 291,
292, 293, characteN1tica
11 28, Chilo 335, �. 337,
China 381, 3llO,
Croatia 270, C-hla 2611,
DNA analysis 14, Enliond
249, Franco 511, 1111. 57, 59.
eo,ee.159,10.12.rs.77.
80, 92, 1111, 119, 129, 141,
143, 150, 151, 1&2. Germany
225. 239, 241, 242 . 243,
244 , 246, Hunpry 282,
263, lorul 287. Italy 1&4,
1611, 159. 166, 187 189, 171,
172, 181. Japan 387,
Lebanon 28e, Moldova
2711, Now Zealand 38
8
,
371, 373, 376, North
Amorlu 294. 211
11
, 297.
291. 304, 30&. 308, 309,
309. 310, 311, 312. 314, 318.
317, 318, 3111, 320, 321, 322.
323, 32�. 3211, Portupl
208, 219, Romania 273,
Ru111a 277. Serbia 2e7.
SIOYOnia 2el, 289, South
Aft-1<:1
1
379, 31
1
0,382,384.
Spain 1111. 197, 1911, 200,
201. Swltarland 251, 252,
253, Ur\llUa.I' 332. wino
Production 32
Charl..ton 3&e
Charlottnvllle 323
Charme1 ee
Lharmolue f1 mllr 90
Chu• Cellaf'1 313
Chuaa1n• 58, llO
ChuN&f1•Montrachet 58,
&9
ChuH�Splnn, Ch 91
1
Chuo
o
lu 69
Chu1elu &raP• France 122,
124, 162, Germany 246,
Switzerland 2llO, 251, 252
Chualn 3e
Chat S.Uvaao 236
Ch,teau (deftnltion) 52
ChltNu Chalon lllO
Chlteau ·Gr1llet 131
Chlteauma11tant 123
Chlteaunoufdu Pape 23,
26, 39, 40. 131-1311
Chatham 323
Chatonnet, Pascal 106
Chautq:ne 162
Cha\lanay 128, 131
Chave. Gilrard 133
Chaw, Jean·Lou1e 128. 133
Chave, Yann 133
Chavlllflol 122, 123
Chehalem Mounta.rns 296
Ch9nas 74
Chane Mal"Chand 122
Chines, Clos des 61
Chenin Blanc grape 1T,
ageing 38, 39 Argentrna
339. 341. Auotralla 347,
Franco 116, 117, 118. 119, 121,
North Amenca 318. South
Africa 378, 379. 381 . 382
Chenonceau>C 120
Chen6ve 67
Cherubino, Larry 348
Chery 131
Choval Blanc, Ch 2-3. 100,
109. 110, 112
Cheval ier. Dom de 102, 106
Chevaher Montrachet 58,
60
Cheval11•1"8s 58
Cheverny 116
Chianti 1� 176 186
Chianti Clas
s
ico 40, 47,
178-179
Ch1ant1 Class1co Gran
Selez1one 176
Ch1ant1 Classk:o Rlserva 39,
176
Chianti Colll Aret"'1 176
Chianti Colll F1orentln1 176
Chianti Colh Senes1 176
Chianti Colhna P1sane 176
Ch1ant1 Montalbano 176
Chianti Ruftna 176
Chlaretto (deftnit1on) 155
Ch1a.ret
t
o 164
Ch1avennasca 156
Chtdal ne. Fran9011 121
Ch11mn 152
Chisnin B•rs:•ron 162
Chihuahua 327
Ch>lo 19. 48. 49, 330,
33
3
-337
Chile Chico 337
Chiles Valley 312
Chiletlco 339
Chlmbarongo 336
China 10, 48, 49, 346,
319-390
Chmon 1e. 120
Chiroubl•• 74
Ch1vlte 197
Choroy 63
Chri1totfel , Joa, Jr 232
Chryoallo 323
Chubut 338, 341
Chucalezna 339
Chusclan 134
Clples 189
Clattut1 vineyard 1e1
C11ie&1olo 1rape 181
Cimo Corao 211, 212
C1m1 de Porrera 202
C1nc1nnat1 289
Cinque Ter,.
.
167
Clnaault/Ctnaaut arape-
character11t1ca H France
134, 138, 142, 144, 148, 147,
148, Lebanon 21e; North
Amerrca 328, South Africa
379. 381
Clnt1 330
Ciolli, Damiano 172
Clr0 183
Cloaac 91
Cl1terc1ane 10, 11, 57, 456. 237,
262, 263
CtU dt.1 Vin, lorde&Ult 87
C'1t,.
..,
,
Ch91!
C1tronny Mqaracha ,.
.._.
277
Citruldal 378
C1vrac:·en Medoc at
Clalrett• 91anche .,._ 131
c lalrft
te
de Di• TradrtiOn
128
Clalrette du Lan1uedoc 143
Clalrot
to
vape Franca 121.
134, 136, 140, 142. 148. 147
148, 201, Lebanon 2Jl6
Cla1ret
t
e Rose &rape 138
Clapoa 128
Claro Valley 352. 3li3
Clare Valley Roc:ks project
353
Claret tff Bordeaux
Cla..
.,
,.
(do1
1
nltlon) 191
Clarke, Ch 95, 96, 1QQ, 341
Clarksbura 318
Clualc (d•"nltlon) 226
Clu1lco (def\nltlon) 156
Clauzat, Ch 90
Clear Lake 304
Clendenen, Jim 322
Clendenen Family 322
Clerc Miion, Ch 93
Closn 89
Climate and wine 18-21
Climate chanse 18, 22-23
Cllmats 54
Cl1mens, Ch 104
Cllnet, Ch 108
Clinton Vineyards 326
Clisson 116
Clonakllla 365
Cloudy Bay 372
Clover Hill 368
Clusal Roch 130
Cluver Paul 384
Clyde Br>dge 360
CM (coo�rat1ve da
manipulation) (definition)
80
Coahu1ta 327
Coal Rrvar 36
6
Coastal (South Aft->ca) 378
Coastal Plain (Israel) 287
C6dax, Martin 193
C�dep de Lar1nho l"P8
207, 213
C6dep VAP• 210
Codorntu 200
Co!fele 168
COFCO 38
8,
390
Coano. Etvlo 159
Colares 215
Colchacua 336
Cold-hardy hybrids 22, 289
Coldstream Hills 362. 363
Colet 200
Co111n 312
Col11n Herb Lamb 313
Colhe1ta (daflntt1on) 207
Colle/colb (deftn1t1on) 155
Colle Stefano 172
Colli Astlam 158
Colli Berlc1 164
Colh BOlollflMi 165
Colh Eup.ne1 164
Colli Euaanel F1or d'Aranc10
164
Coll! Orlentall del Frlull 170,
171
Colh P1acenbnl 156
Colline del Cratl 183
Collme Novares1 156
Colhnes Rhodan1ennes 128
Colllo Bianco 171
Colllo Gonz1ano 170, 171
Colllo/Brda 170
Collloure 145
Colmant 383
Colmar 127
Colombard grape 116, 378,
379
Colomb1er 131
Colomb1er, Dom du 133
Colonla 332
Colorado 328
Colorina crapa 178
Columbia C,.
..
t 299
Columbia Gora• 294
Columbia Valley 294, 2ga
Columella 381
Combe de Savoie 162
Combler, Dom 133
Commandarla 284
CommareJne1, Clos de la 62
Completer 1rape 2&0. 2151
Conca d'Oro 178
Conce de Barbert 200
Conc•del Rlu Ano1a �00. 201
Conch• y Toro 336, 336, 337
Concord rape 14. 28Q, 299
324
Condado do TN
Condoleo 183
-Condr•eu 38. 128. 111
cooq11ano Valdobb1 d
7�3. 184. f..
.
Confrenec;t.e Chev&kert: du
Tut.ev1n 66
Conr C.reek 314
Cot>n Val
l
oy 312
VQl'\IOf"ZIO (dt't\mtJonJ 1&5
�onatant.ia 1 '380
�...,
,.
.
ata1 t1a U1ta11 llO
con..
.
11at1on 320. 325
Contarno, Gtacomo 158, 182
183
Conti,l.ucde113
Contino 198
Continuum 312
Cont,.
.
Soerda 1114
Contuc
c
•180
Convito d1 Aomaana 186
Coombavtlle 310
Co
onawar
r
a341
1
.3157
Coos>'ratlve de rnarNpulat1on
(CM) (dofln.tion) BO
Cc>pt, Nonnl 182
Copertlno 183
Coppola. Francl1 Ford 314
Corb�re1 140
Corcolette 75
Corcova 273
Corde1tlan- Baces. Ch 92
Cord•SCO gape 339
Corella 197
Corio!• 36
6
Cor1son 313
Cork oak 37, 37
Cork taint 37, 38
Cork$, stoppennc W1ne
bottles 11, 37, 37, 38, 45
Corkscrews 11, 46. 46
Cornal1n (l
l'OP
• 260, 252
Cornas 128, 128
Cornelissen, Franc 185
Corntfesto gape 213
Coroane1 Segarcea. Dom
273
Corsica 149
Corte Sant'Alda 169
CortM, Hernan 327
Cortes de Cima 219
Cortese 11"1>'1 156. 168. 304
Corton 57, 58, 62. 63, 64
Corton-Charlamqne 67, 63
Cortona 172
Corv1nagrape 184, 168. 189,
339
Corvlnone grape 169
Corvus 286
Cos d'Estournel, Ch 88. 90,
90
Cos Labory. Ch 90
Cosecha (deflnlbon) 191
Costa d'Amal
ll
182
CostaGra1a 172
Costa Russi 161
Costa Toacana 175
Costa della S.saa 156
Coaters del Segre 200
Cost1•res de Nlmas 135
COtgrape 14, 16. 113,120, 141
Cotat. Fran'i:o1s 123
C6te Blonde 130
C6teBonnette 131
C6te Bouguel"Ots 78
C6te Bruna 130
C6te Chalonnalse 54, U
C6te Chlt1llon 131
C6te d'Or 16, 25. 26, 39, 47,
64,11
11
-lil
l
Cbte de Baauna 54, 57, 68
Central 10-81 . Northern
82-83, Southom liQ
C6te de Bl"Oullly 75
COte de OIJOn es
C6to do Nults 11, 64. 67, 58,
No,.thern 81-97
Southern ..
._.
,,
C6te de N uits·V•llllH 84, 6e
elite d• �zanne 82
C6te dee Bar 80, 81
C�te dH Slencs 80. 82
C6teduPy 74
C6t. Roanna••• 73
C6to R6tlo 39, 128 730.
130 131
Coteau du Vernon 131
Coteaux Bour1u11no"1 56
Coteaux Ch&mpenola 82
CotM.ux d'Alx ·en Prownce
147
Coteau• do (doftnttlonl !i2
Coteaux de l'AtJbanea 118
Coteaux du Cap Corte 148
Coteaux du G1enn04• 123
Cotaaux du Layon 118
CoteauK du Lo1r 11&
Cot.aux du Tr-tea.tin 13'4
Cotf
f
U)I du Vend6m0t1 tlli
Coteaux dll Verdon 147
Coleau.w. Varo1' 'M7
COtoo Catalano• 146
C6tes d'Au .,
,.
ran• 7..
Ct>toa d'Avanoa 286
C6tM d• (Gaflnitlon) 62
Cotoa'lo..
..
.
124
Cbt:Mi de llordNlJ� 100
r. btN de GUtl)IN 110
r..6tff de Pruvenct 146
-)t.e• 0.
.
Dures 11J
..Ote• u Fll..I �1
6t•• ou Jura 1"!iO
c;tH du Ma1·manda1 • H4

L6l•t:. du RhOnei 128_ 129,
Oamoy, Pt.r ,.
.
-, Dom
DO (Denomlr1ac10n de
DW.a (0.
.
1.-
134, 138
Danube Terrace
Ori-I 40, 1111
Vltlcultural Arua) 293
CMoodul'IMnt1VJflopa134. Dl
l
o 3t, 207 21a-!1
1
7
DO Pqo !O.nom1rw:
:
1on de
Dworkin, More 276
"de. 137
Drdqny 263
Or1pn ,..,.,, 191
cM•• du "'®&1llton 1�
°"'""' 381
Dobro- Hiiia 273
Early Mountain V1neyard1
COtes du AouHlllcm Vll1aa:••
O.rnaud. Emman1J91 133
DOC Italy (0.nomlnuoo"" di
12:
144
Ouuutt. Ch 341
Orl&ln• Co1
1
trollata) 40.
East Mallln1 2411
CM•• du V1varal• 13-4
Dassault, Laurent 341
16'1, 166, l'ortupl
Ebanthal 26'1
Cbte1 St E.mKton 110
Dauphln•· Rondllton Ch 100
(09nomln�lo de Ort11m
Ebert. Chrtotlan 228
Cotettl 272
Doutol 245
Controtodol 40, 207, 208,
Ebner· Ebernauer 264
Cotnar"I 272
Dautenpfll.nzer vineyard 236
Romanla(Denumlre d•
Echevronn• 68
Cotul"f'I 308
Oauuc, Ch 98
Orlclne Controlatl) 272
Ech•zeaux 84
Couehey 87
Davoy• 811
DOCa (Oenomln1cl6n d1
Echunp 368
Coufran . Ch '11
Dovtno 272
Or1pn Callflcada) 191
Eden Valley 360, 312
Couhlna Lur'ton Ch 102
Dovl1, UC 310
Doce (doftntttonl 207
Edotirla 200
COulH d• Serr&nt 118
Do Bartoli 186
OOCG (Denomlnazlon1 di
Edna Valley 321
Couno\H grape 138. 147
Do Bortoil 368, 3&3
Or11ine Controllata 1
Edno Volley Vineyard 321
COUQU�Uff SB
De Grazia, Marc 1815
Garantlta) 154 165
Edwards, Lule Fellpe 33e
Cour · Cheverny 11e
0. Martino 336
Doctor vineyard 232. 233
Efrln11n Kirchen 246
Courbto 128
Dealu Mare Z72
Do1hanl 158
E1or 282
Courbl1 brothers 128
O.bina 1rape 280
Ooley Oa6n1 , Ch 104
E1r1 282
Courc•I 62
Oebme 1rap9 267
Dotay Dubroco. Ch 104
E1ul1helm 126, 127
Couraelle 100
Debit 1rope 270
Dolce (definition} 156
Eaypt 10, 40
Cour1odon 128
Dacant1n1 wine 45
Dolcetto 1rape 38, Au1tralla
Ehloro 313
Courth•zon 139
Dot 180
345, Italy 156, 158, 160, 182 Ehrhordt. Cort 23&
Coutet. Ch 104
O.lde&hetm 242, 243
D61o 262
Etohbef'I 127
Cover&dale. S.m 361
Delnhard, Dr-, estate 242
Dolenj1ka 26Q
Elrel. Franz·Joe•f 230
Cowta 366
Oel11, Marcel 127
Dolomltlcl , I 167
Elnzoll..
.
n 224
Crabotey, Ch 100
Oala!reGraft' 382
Dom P'rlsnon 82
El1acktal IH Valle laarco
Craay Rance 370
Detu 128, 130, 133
Domaine (definition) 52
Et1ele Vineyard 312
Croll Robert 312
Delaware grape 289, 386,
Domdechaney 237
EIHnber1 26'1, 2151
1
, 281
Crqloo 380
387
Oomdechant Werner 237
E11wetn (definition) 226
Cre.ltmoor 365
Dehcato Family Vineyards
Domocq 327
Eltelsbach 227
Crama Bauer 273
317
Domenica 358
Et Ceplllo 341
Crama Oprltor 273
Delon family 94
Domina iv•P• 246
El Dorado 318
Cramant 92
Demi sec {d�nltlon} 80
Dom1nu1 312. 314
El E1teco 339
Cramele Recao 273
DeMorcenzon 382
Domus Aurea 336
El Hierro 191
Crlmpo9I• Selec\1onatl
Demptos 36
Don Valley 277
El Milagro vlneyord 20
..
.
-272, 273
Denbles 248
Oona Maria 219
El Puerto 204
Crane. Or, vmayard 313
Denic' 72
Donabaum. Johann 256
E1 Sequ6 190
eras 65
Denmark 347
Donaldson, Ivan 371
Etozot 286
Crawford River 359
Denomlna�io de Or1gem
Donilt, Szent 263
Etbt1n1 er- 227, 250
Cremade, Ch 148
Controlada see DOC
Donat.ch 251
Eldrld1e 381
Cr9mant de Bour1ogne 68
01nom1nacl6n de Or11en see
Donlb•• 390
Etopnte grope 149
Cremant de Die 128
DO
Donnu 156
Eleva 169
Cr9mant de Llmoux 141
Denom1nae16n de OM1en
Donnersk1rchen 261
El11tn 384,384
C'"'mant de Loire 119
Collftcado se
e
DOC
06nnhof 236
Ehm 378, 384
Cri
i
mant de Savoie 152
Denom1nac'6n de Or1gen
DOnnhof. H9'mut 234
Elkton Ore1on 294, 294
Cr9mant du Jura 151
Pago see DO Pago
Oonnhof. Hermann, estate
Ellis, Neil 381
Cremtsan 287
0.nomtnA96es de Or1gem
234
Ellwanger, Bernhard and
Creon 100
Protegtdas see DOP
Oonnlc1 183
Jurgen 245
C-'py 152
Denom1nazt0ne di Orlgme
Donnybro
o
k348
Eloro 184
Crete 282
Controllata se
e
DOC
Doosberg 237
Elqu1 Valley 335
Cr1anza (deftn1bon) 191
Denommaz1one d1 Or1gine
OOP (Oenom1nA90es de
Embotellado (de or1gen)
Crimea 276
Controllata • Garantrta
Ort1em Protegodas) 207,
(deftnltlonl 191
Croollo Chica grape 289. 334.
s<>e DOCG
208
Emtdlo Pepe 172
339
Denumlre de Orlgme
Doplf 126
Em1r grape 285
Cnolla. Grande grape 339,
Controlatl se
e
DOC
Oordogne 113
Empedrado 337
340
Derenoncourt, St•phane
Dornfelder grape 38, 223.
Empordl 201
Crtp.na 273
106, 110, 286
224. 234. 236, 241, 246
Emrich SchOnleb1r 235
Crljenak Kaitelanskl grape
Dereszla. Ch 265
Dorrance 380
Eneruzado grape 207 217
271
Dernauer Pfarrwlnprt 226
Oorshelm 235
Enderle & Moll 246
Croatia 27, 270-271
Derwent Valley 366
Oosto1ny grape 277
Endlngen 244
Croatian Uplands 270
Designated Vitlcultural
Douro 207, 208, 210, 213, 214 Enfer d'Arvler 156
Croatina grape 156
Areas SM DVAa
Douro Superior 212
Engarral'ado (na or1pm)
Croozet Bagu. Ch 93
Desmlrall, Ch 98
Douro Valley 40, 40. 47,
(dennlt1on) 207
Croser, Brian 354, 35e
Oespqnes fam ily 100
!1
1
0-214
Engelsteln 225
Crozes Herm1tap 26. 133
Deutsch Schutzen Eisenberg Dourthe 94
Engtond 22, 27, 249
CRS 294
281
Doux (deflnitlon) BO
Enk1rcher Ellerarub 233
Cru (deftmt1on) 52
Deutsche We1nstrasse 240
Downie. Wiiham 360
Ente, Arnaud 36
Cru classe (deflmtton) 52
Deutscher Prt.dlkatswe1n
Dril
lfa
n1 272
Entr�es L• Fel 114
Crus1vs, Dr Peter 234, 236
{d•fin1t1on) 225
Drimo 280
Entre Deux Mars 84, 86.
Cruzeau, Ch de 102
Deutscher Quahtitswaln
Draper. Paul 316
100-101
CsoniP'Od 2132
(definition) 40, 225
Ore1ss1gacker. Jochen 239
Entrefaux. Dom dn 133
Csopak Kodex. 263
Deutscher Sekt 225
Dresden 225
Envlnat• 191
CuaJtacclugrapti 149
Deutscher' Wein (deflnlt1on)
Drew 304
Eola Amlty Hills 296
Cullleron, Yves 131
226
Dried grape wines 169, 180.
Epanom1 280
Cullen 349
Deutschschwelz 261
204, 284, 284
Epenots (Epeneaux) 62
Cuomo. Marisa 182
Deutzerhof 226
Orouhm 62
Epesses 263
Curlc6 334, 336, 337
Devil's Corner 366
Drouhm, Joseph 55
Epftg 124
Curly Flat 380
Dtvfn grape 266
Orumborg 369
Ep1rus 280
Currency Creak 355
Dozoloy 252, 263
Dry Creek Volley 306
Equipa Navazos 204
Cussac �
DI Ml.Jo Norante 183
Ory Rrv•r 370
Erasmus. Clos 202
Cu11n .. Tomb 20
0
Diageo 317
Dubourdleu fa mily 104
Erboch 237
Cuwmano 184
Diam (agglomerate} closures
Ducho d'Uz•s 135
Erbaluc• di Caluso 158
CuvH (definition) 80
'.!7,37
Ouclaux 130
Erden 232
Cuveller family 341
Diamond Creek Vineyard 312 Dues. Clos des 61
Erd�bonyo 285
Cvitek 289
Diamond MountaJn District
Duckhorn 304 317
Erello 275
CVNE 195
312
Ducru Beaucalllou . Ch 93,
Ermltqe 262
Cyprus 284
Diamond Valley 382
94
Erolco 300
Czech1a 2H
Diano d'Atba 158, 1112
Duemanl 175
Err.U
U
rtz tunlly 335-338
Olel Arrmn 234
Duero Vall.y 189
Erste Lq;en (deftnltlon) 225
DAcoeto, Hugo 327
Dtol, Corolln• 236
Duhort Milon, Ch g3
Erzeu11rabfOllun1
D'Arenbef'I 365
Diet Schloucut 235
Dukogjtnt 287
!definition) 226
O'Arenber& Cube winery
Dgon 65
Dulce (definition) 191
EHro 183
342-343
Dlllonf'an111y 110
Dunaj cropo 288
Esco 27, 27
Dobouk1vaPO287
Dlmlot (Dlmyot) crope 21!7,
Dundee Hiiis 296
E1eherndorf 248
DAC (Dolt
t'lctu
• AustrlM
275
Dunn 312
E1clan1, Ch d 14e
Controllotusl 264
Dlnutta de Vivenco 199
Durand, Eric and J�I 128
Escurac, Ch d' 88
Dafn1 grope 282
Dlnpt 271
Durantou, Deni• 108
E1pno Clo IPOPe 221
D..
..
tan 211
Dloltnolr .,._ 260
Duru sr•P• 114
Eapoctocle vtneyord 200
Dqueneau. Didier 123
D...n 286
DurbOCh 244
E1pumoao (definition) 191
Dal Forno 189
Dlrmeteln 243
Durbanvllle 380
Eot!EatllEstlt< 181
Dot Zot
t
o368
Dorupl 15\!
Ourt1ll Vineyard 308
E1totn1 114
Dll
l
tollalle 314
Dlaeu" ofvlnH Z1 29, 30
Ourfort Vlvena, Ch g9
Eatremadura ..
.
Llabo«
o.i.t.Ch386
DtWI Tromtnec crope 289
Ouriense 208, 210
Etno 164-186
Dotmatta 270, 271
Dlozn6k6 298
Ourlf grape 358
E.tna Blanco Super1ore 116
Dolrympte 38
8
D11trlctu1 Auatrlu
DOrnateln 268
Et yek·Budo 283
Oafwtunnre 359
Contoltatus ••• OAC
Outruch Grand Poujeaux, Ch Eutypa dieboek 27, 27
oam.. de la Char-lt6 62
Dtt
t
eloholm 238
Q8
Evans, Len 384
Oam1anltza 775
Dt.on'a Cre
e
k363
Dutton 306
Evora 218, 219
Ex-Voto 133
E•opto 111
11
EJCtra (deftnttton) 90
Extra bl'Ut (deftnit1on) 80
Extremt.dura 191
EyMo Vineyard 211t, 2117
Ezerj6 crape 262. 203
Fatrvtow 381. 382
fotwtey 66, 81
Folonll
l
tno arope 182. 183
Falerlo 172
Faleaco 181
FolHt 200
Fomantlno Volley 338
Fanqorto 217
Fara 158
Farsue1, Ch de 104
faro 186
Farr 360
Farrall, Gary 306
Farroupllh& 331
Fattorla (deftnltlon) 165
Fou..
..
.
1 142
Faustino 11H5
Favorito crepe 158, 1811
Foy 160
Foy vineyard 315
foyolle 133
Folc:hy 263
F1iler·Artin1•r 261
Felnherb (deftnltjon) 225
Foldmorocholt 187
Fellbacher Llmmler 246
FelHnber1 236
Felseneck vineyard 234. 235
Fend•nt crape 252
Fer Servlldou lf"ape 113, 114
Ferd . M°" 231, 232
Fer1uson Valley 348
Fermentation 12, 33 -36, 36
Fernl.ndez. Alejandro 194
Fernlo Pires 1rape 208, 215,
218
Ferncrove 348
Ferrando 156
Ferrari 166
FerrllM, Nteola 189
Ferraton 133
Ferrer. Gloria 309
Ferret. J·A 10
Ferr1•re. Ch 98
Ferroc1nto 183
Feteucl Albi ..
..
..,.
272.
273
Foteucl N-rlv- 272
273
Feteucl Repll 1rape 272,
273
Fetzer 3CM
Feuerlay 226
Feuersbrunn 254
F•vre, Wilham 78
Flano di Avellino 182, 183
Ftano I"- 156, 162, 183,
345, 354
F1ddlatown 318
fleuzal, Ch do 102
F1pri 149
Flgooc, Ch 109, 110, 112
F1&ht1n1 Gully Road 358
F1gula. Mihaly 263
F1hpp1 168
Frltrat1on 35
F1nea Doff 202
Fmea Sandoval 190
F1ndhn1 veP• 253
Flngor Lakes 19, 324-326
F1nkenauer. Carl 235
Flnmss River 355
Fr orenzo Nada vineyard 161
Firenze 176
Flt&, Marla 140
Frt:ero 197
Fltou 140
F1x1n 66
Flogoy 64
Ftometre
e
349
Flaviac 129
Fleurle 74
Florido 290
Flortd.,
,
e, Cloa 100
Fiorita 353
FIOl"lhelm·Dahlahelm 238,
239
Flowers 307
Foqy Hlll 364
Foll• Blanehe 1rape 117
Folto Noireer- 146
Fondlllon 1go
Fond,.
.
che 134
FonrMUd, Ch 95, 96
fonsolette. Ch de 134
Fon1eca. Jod Marla da
216
Fontanofredda 1112
Fontodl ..tata 156
Foradori, Elloabetta 186
Foreat Hiii 347
Forp project 324
Form1ntera 191
Forre1tef' JoHph J1met 40,
211
Foret 243
Fort RoH· Seavlew 106
Fortla, Ch 13S
Foeter. Norman 91
Foti. Salvo 184, 116
Fouc�t ra mlly 119
Fourca1-Borie, Ch ee
fourcu Dup-'. Ch 88, lie
Fourcaa Ho1tan, Ch 96, ie
Fourchaume 78
Foxen 321
Fowl11 3eO
Framln&ham 37•
Franc Mayne, Ch 11'2
Frenc. I0-111 Alsace
124-117 Bondol 14S
Bordeaux 14-111,
Burt1
1J
ndy M-7t
Chompocn• ao-u
climate 22. Corelca 149
Jura, Savoie, and Bupy
160-112 Lan1uedoc
140-143, Lotro Volley
11e-123 oak treH 3e,
phylloxera 27, Provence
149-147 l'lh6ne 1U-139
Aou111llon 144-14a
Southweat 111-11•
vineyard land pr1cH '47.
vineyards 48. wme label1
52, 80, w1n1 production
10, 4Q
France, Ch de 102
Franch.tt1, Andrea 185
Francia 162
Franclacorta 164
Franciscans 289, 308, 326
Franc;ol1 Frha 36
Francs C6tea de Borde&ux
100, 100
frlncutl VoPO 272
Frano 152
Frank, Dr Konstantin 324
Frank & Frer 246
Frankin 224. 24S-247
Frankland Estate 348
Frankland River 347-348
Frankovka grape 266
Franschhoek Valley 381 .
382-383
Franzen 233
Frappato arape 184
Frascat1 172
Fraser Gallop 349
Fraser VaJley 292
Fratelh 385
Fratelh Alessandr1a 162
FrederK:ksburg 326
Freeman 365
Freestone winery 305
Frelburger grape 251
Frelnsh11m 243
frelHF- 158
Fre1samer vape 261
frelxenot 195, 200
Frescobaldi 174
FreundestUek vineyard 2-43
Freybuf'I 225
Fricke. Eva 236
Fritsch, Karl 254
Frrttmann TestWrek 262
Frtulano grape 164, 170, 171,
268. 325
Frtuh 165. 170-171, 268
'Fnuri lsonzo 1n
Frrzzante {definition) 155
froll's LHP 314
Fronsae 106. 112
Front.Ira 331
Frontenac grape 289
Frontenac Gris vape 289
Fronton 114
Frost protection 18, 19, 28,
30, 78
Fuffs 86
Fuell• lf"AP• 146
FrUhburcunder vape 226,
247
Fruhhn&splltzchen 2:M, 236
Fu1sse 70
Fum' Blane 31•
Fumm 1rape 156
Funchal 221
FunrFreund• 241
Furmmt vape Austria 261.
Croatia 270. Hunpry
262. 283, 264, 286
Slovenia 269. Ukraine 276
Furore 182
Furst, Rudolf' 2�7
Goattoppo crape 165. 182,
183
Gal-Kodzor 277
Ga1a 282
Gaillae 114
Gaillard. Ch 75
Ga+ole vineyard 178
Ga11bOhl 242
INOIX
Ha
Gajo 174 176
Gojo. Anplo 180. 81 16
Gai-, Go.a 181
G&l. Tibor 2113
Galqo Dourado IJ"ape ZU5
Galett 131!1, 138
Gallety, Dom 134
Gallo 306, 101, 30I, 321
Gamaret ar- �. 263
Gamay gape AustraUa .368;
chareci.rl1tlc1 N ONA
analysl1 14. France 515 58,
ao. 1111. 12. 73. 74, 114. 118.
120, 123, 182, North
America 283; Serbia 2fff
Switzerland 2152, 263
Gambellara 1M
Gamza arape 276
Gon1tolf 130
Gan1lof
f.
YvH 131
Gina 233
Gansu 390
Ganttinbeln 251
Gopated 368
Gara lkenl &rap• 277
Garamv6ri Ht.ate 263
Garamv'1'1, Vencel 263
Garanolr 1rap1 260
Garcia, Mariano 1Q5
Garda 184
Garganega grape 164, 168.
189
Girkammer 226
Garnache (T1nta) crape SH
Grenache (No1r)/Garnacha
(Tlnta) 1rape
Gllmach& Blanca 1rape •••
Grenache Blanc/Gamacha
Blancaarape
Garnacha Tintorert grape
191
Garnaxta vape 202
Garon 130
Garrafetra (defin1bon) 207
Garrl1uos 200
Garrus 146
Garrut grape 200
Gasqueton, DeniH 90
Gatt1nara 156
Gau ·Alg1she1m 238
Gouby 145
Gaul 243
Gav1 158
Gazm Roquencourt. Ch 102
GHlon1 360
Ge1senhe1m 237
Gem1sc:hter Satz 254
Gemt,.
.
e Estate 355
Generation Pfalz 241
Geneva 250, 251, 253
Geographe 348
Geographical Ind.cations see
Gts
Georgoo 10, 48, 49 179-279
290
Geraci, Salvatore 185
Gere. Attala 262
Gerpna lf'&pe 275
G•nn, Jean Michel 130
Gllnnan Switzerland 251
Germany 22
2
-247, Ahr 229-
Baden and WUrttemberg
24
4-
248 climate 19, 22,
Franken 241-247 Middle
Mosel (M1ttelmosel)
230-23
3
Mosel 227 Naho
234-236 Pfolz 241-1
143
phylloxera 27, Rhe1ngau
231-237 Rhemhessen 47
23S-240 Sa
ar
22a-22t
vineyard land priees •7,
vineyards 48, wine labels
225, wine production 49
Gerovas611iou 280
Gerilmpel vineyard 243
Gesellmann, Albert 261
Getarlako Txakohna 189
Gevrey 58
Gevrey-Chl
lm
bertin 57. 58,
65
Gewurztram1ner/
GewQrztram1ner arape
Ara;enbna 341, Chile 335,
337, France 124, 125, 127.
Germany 242, Italy 187
North Amertea 292, 30
0
.
304. 318, 322, Slownta
28Q; Switzertond 251
G_.i.of 268
Geyoervilte V1noyerd 308
�lalto 273
Ghemme 156
GI IGooaraphtcat Indication)
40,346
Glocondo 358
G1acoa
a.
Bruno 161
Gloid1 261
Gtbbston 375
G11Qndu 136
Gil Family 189
Gilbert, Capt Joseph J52

394
INDEX
Gilbert W1n91 :US
Gltette Ch 104
Gmes, Gulllaume 128
Gillmore 337
Glmblet
t
Gravel• 2&. 389
G1mn6 283
G1ne1tra v1neyvd 182
G1nkao Winery 29
9
G1nl 188
GIOla del Colle 183
G1ppsland 380
GtrO &rape 186
G1sborn• 368
G1scours, Ch 98
Giuseppe Cortese Vineyard
161
G1vry 68
Gladstone 370
Gladstone$, John 348
Glen Carlou 382
Gioneily 382
Glenrowan 358, 360
Giera 1rape 1&4, 345
Global Wines 216
Gloria. Ch 94
Glor1an. Daphne 202
Glun 128
Gobelsbu"I 258
Godello vape 192, 207
Goelet Wine Estates 368
Golan Heights 287
Golan He1shts winery 287
Goldberc vineyard 258
Golden M1� Bench 292
Golden Muscat 9rape 385
Goldeneye winery 304
Goldert 127
Goldmine 381
Gohtsyn, Leo. Prrnee 276
Gals 260, 261
Gondorf 23
3
Gonon 128
Gonz'1ez Byus 327
Gordo Blanco grape 17
Gorges 116
G6ttlesbrunn 254
Goua1s Blanc 1rape 14, 252
Goulburn VaUey 360
Goum9msu. 280
Gourt de Mautens 136
Gouttes d'Or 60
Gouveto grape 207, 213
Graach 232
Gracc1ano dells Seta 180
Grace Valley 313
Grace Vineyard 390
Graci, Alberto 185
Graciano arape 146, 186, 197
198, 203
Grad1 (alcool) (deftnttlon) 155
Graf Ne1pperg 245
Groft1n1 11, 13, 23, 27, 28
Graham'• 213
Graham's Stone Terraces
vineyard 213
Grahm, R81
1
dall 316
GraHlot 133
Gralllot, Al&.1n 133
GramhUbel 242
Gramenon, Dom 134
Gramp, Colin 362
Gramp1an1 359
Gran Canarla 191
Gran Renrva 191
Grand Corbin Deapasne 108
Grand Cru (def'nrtlon) 52 58
Grand Enclo1 94
Grand Enclo1 du Chltea.u du
c•ron1 100
Grand Mayne , Ch 112
Grand POUJHU>C 98
Grand P'°'· Dom de 291
Grind· Puy OucaHe, Ch 93
Grand Puy Laco1te, Ch 93
Grand Volley 321!1
Grandt EcMz..ux 84
Gran1e d• P•re• 142
Gf'an•te Belt 34&
Granja Ama,.
..
eja 218
Gran• Fua1an 230
Grant Murall11 200, 201
Grape 12 13, cllrnat4t 11 18,
22 28 cold hardy hybrid•
22 2811 dried 189. 180,
204 284 284, horveotln1
3C 31 32,130 1114,2!/fl
306 341, 163 3114, JUie
e
12 r1pen9H 30, lktn 12
1muke taint 23 1ort1n1
174, va11et1H 14-17
bratl srai>e 272
GrdAc raP• 287
Grdevlna arape 17 270
1iiratallop1 202
:traubt.1nd•n 2e1
..
.
raubur1under 1repe 223
224 128 227 231, 241
2'42 244 �11
'Jrav• 0.1 F r1ul1 l71
Gra..,e1 M11 10
0
19'1
arAv•• iiuP*'1eurM 100
Gravner 165. 171
Gravner Jo&ko 170, 170, 2e8
Great Southern 347
Grtiat WHtern 369
Gr«:hetto (6'anco) F-
180 181
Gr.
..:
o di Blanco 183
Greco d1 Tufb 182, 183
Greco F- 155, 183
Gredo
o
191
Gre
ec
e H0-213 hlatory of
wine production 10,
P9-loponnese 283
phyltoxera 27, vineyards
48, wine production 49
Gre
e
n Hunprtan 1rape 318
Gre
e
n Valley 306
Gre
e
nstone 360
G�eux 132
Grenache (Nolr)/Garnacha
(T1nta) 1rape1 Arpnt1na
339, Austraha 350, 351 ,
364, 355, characteristics
1& Corsica 149 France
136. 136, 140, 141, 142, 145,
147, 14'8. Israel 287 ttaly
184, Lebanon 286, North
America 322, South Africa
381, Spain 186. 189, 189,
190, 191, 197, 198, 200, 202
Grenache Blanc/Garnacha.
!Manca srape
character1sbcs 11 France
134, 135, 136, 136, 140, 142,
144, 145, 146, 147, ,.,,.
.
,
287, North America 326,
Spain 199. 200
Grenache Grla 1rape 15. 144,
146
Grenoullles 78
Gres de Montpelher 143
Gre11vaudan 152
Gressler-Grand -PouJ ..ux,
Ch96
Gresy, Marchesi di 16'1
Greve 178
Greyoac, Ch 88
Grezllloc 21. 100
Grp:h, Mike 271
Gr&lch Hills 271
Gnesel &. Compacnle 225
Gr1tnth MS
Gr1anan lea Adh•ma.r 134
Gn1nohno l"&pe 168
Gr1Uo 1rape 184, 185
Grimentz 252
Gr1ncet vape 152
Gnfton, Marq..,.s de 191
Grrnzane Cavour 162
Gnotte 66
Grtpa 128
Grison1 261
Grk grape 271
Groenekloof 381
Gro
o
t Constantia 380
Gros Mansen vape 113, 114
Gros Plant Nanta.11 srape 117
Groas 25
5
Gron, Alots 266
Gro... Lapn 225
Grosses Gewlchs C"-"nltlon)
224, 225
Gro11et 356
Grosut, Jeffrey 353
Gro11h6fle1n 281
GroNkarlbach 2'43
Groul..
.
n 224
Grover fa mlly 385
Grover Zampa Vineyard 385
Gruall 185
Gruaud LaroH, Ch 94
Gruber fa mily 264
Gru.t Winery 328
Grumello 1&6
GrUner Vettllner arape
Auotrolla 388, 31!16,
Auotrla 254. 251!1. 258,
289. Ciechlo 2118,
North America 290
Slovakia 2116
GrOnhaua, Maxlmln 227
GrOnotadt 243
Guoclalupe Volley 327
Gutido al Taeao 17'4
Gual 1rape 191
Guoltellary 341
Guanojuato 327
Guarlllhue 337
Guuparl 331
Guden lirtok 2113
Gu•bwlHer 127
Gutlrord, Miehe! 1111
Guiraud, Ch 104
Gufreno Heynen 70
Gu!pl 128, 130. 131, 133
Guipl Marcel 130
Gulfteland1 292
Gundarloch 236. 240
Gunn Andrew 314
tauo11n•re 132
Gurla 27&
GuHek 226
H•Hl.ch• lil•l"ptralH 223,
Gut Hermannlb•r& e1tat•
228, 244
234,235
HH1l1che Stuttwt1ln10tar
Gutedel INpe 245
AHmann1hauMn 23e
Gutaab!Ollun1 (definition) 225 Heurlpn 264
Gutaweln• (deftnlt1on) 225.
Heydenreich vineyard 242
238
Heyl zu H1rrn1halm 231
Gutturnlo 156
H1ymann - L6wen1taln 227,
Gutzler 239
233
Gwlsa 1rape 252
Hiii of Grae• vineyard 352,
352
H..
..
Frltz 231
HlllCreot Vineyard 2114
Haq, Thomu 232
Hllllck & Hobbs 324
Huk 326
Hllltopo 365
Hurt . Julian 231
Hlmbertscha 1rape 2t52
Hurt, Reinhold 231
Hlpp1n1 vineyard 239, 240
Hau, Franz 187
Hlroch 307
Hahn 225
Hirsch, JohannH 268
Hahndorf Hiii 356
Hlroch, Welnsut 268
Haldle 246
Hirsch Vineyards 305
Hall dam- 20, 21
H1rtzbera:er 256
Hain 231
Historic Vineyard Society
Halnfelder Let
t.e
n 242
303
Halama. Mark 129
Hobbs 352
Hojos Beia 262
Hobbs, Paul 308, 324
Halbtrocken (deftnrt.lon) 225
Hochar, Ser•e 286
Halenber1 234, 235
Hochhelm 236, 237
Halliday, James and Suzanne
Hoddles Creek 363
362 , 363
Hoflut Falkenstein 228
Hamdam 1rape 287
HOfleln 254
Hames \latl� 317
HofsUtter 167
Hamilton, Hugh 356
Hohen Sillzen 239
Hamilton Russell, Tim 384
Hohenmorgen 242
Hamptons 324
Hohnen , David 372
Handley 304
Hokko1dO 387
Hanhn Hlll 363
Hokush1n 387
Hanzel! 308
H611berg vineyard 238
Happy Canyon of Santa
HOiie 237
Barbara 321 , 322
Holllck 357
Haras de Ptrque 336
Hombu,.
.
er Kallmuth 247
Haraszthy, Aaoston 308
Hondarrlbl FOP" 189
Hardy. Thomu 354
Ho"' Kon1 390
Hordyo354,36
6
Horgan, Denis 349
Harkamp 255
Horse Heaven Hills 300
Harlan 314
Horton Vineyards 323
Haro 198
Hosanna. Ch 108
Harr1que1rape 332
Hoeplces de Beaune 62. 83
H•ro1evo1a ,._ 262. 263,
Houghton 347
264, 265
Hout Boy 360
Harvemnc 31, 32. 730, 784
H6vel, von 228
229, 305 . 341, 353, 3114.
Howell Mountain 312
..
..
..
.,
30
Hua Hin 385
Harvey 348
Huber, Bernhard 24
4
Hastings River 36&
Huber. Markus 264
Hat1chbour& 127
Huber, Juhan 244
Hatten 386
Hud.an 309
Hat
t
enheim 237
Hudson River Re1lon 324
Hatz1dakla, Har1d1moa 282
326
Hauner Carlo. sr 185
Huet 121
Hau1erer, Clo. 127
Hupl 128, 126
Haut B..
.
. L1b9ral, Ch 93
Humqne Blanc araP• 250,
Haut Bailly, Ch 102
282
Haut 81ta1lley Ch 93
Humaane Rouae 1rape 250,
Haut Berpy, Ch 102
252
Haut Brion, Ch 11, 22, 14, 88, Humbrecht 126
102, 103, 110
Humidity Z1
Haut-Brion Blanc, Ch 102
Hunawthr 127
Haut Chall"UU, Ch 109
Hunpry 48, 48, 21
12
-291
1
Haut·CondlHU. Ch 88
Hunter Valley 364
Haut Marbuzet . Ch 90
Huntington Estate 386
HoutM*loc 88,96,91
1
Huon Valley 36e
Hayt Peyrquey, Cloo 104
Hvar 271
HautH ·C6tes 88, 57
Hyde 309
Hawk &. Horse 304
Hawke'1 BOi
i
sea, H•
Ibiza 101
H11
11
ne Vineyard 313
lea330
Heald1bur1 30l
l
lcewlne/Eloweln 12, China
HNl..vllle 38 3
390; Germany 223, 232,
Hell't & Hand• 324
North America 2111, 2111
Heathcote 3eO
21
1
2, 2113, 324, Slovakia
Hebe1 368, 380
28e, Slovenl• 289
HHrkr•tz vineyard 231
Idaho 28'4
He,.r, Dr 244
Iller Hano 201
Held• IJ'ape 2eo. 282
IGT (lndlcazlone Geo1r9ftca
Helh1•n1teln vineyard 258
Tlplca) 164, 186
Heimann 262
IGP. canada (Indication
Helnr1ch, Gernot 261
G•o1raph1que Prot..••>
Heitz. Joe 314
291; Franc• (Indication
Helen Qlnpue 390
G'°1rapl
l
lc P�lf
f
) 52,
Helenenkloater vineyard 232
Italy (lndlcazlone
H•m•I en Aarde 383, 384
GeotJraftca Protet
t
a) 164,
Hen11t 127
168, Portulal (lndlc"'lao
Henkel! 200
GeoF&rlca Protqklal
Henochke 382. 362 388
207, 208, Spain (lndlcacl6n
Henty 369
G-r&�ca Protqkla) 191
Heppln&en 228
IKON 21
1
3
Herded• (deftnttlon) 207
llbe-lmer Kalmlt 241
Herdadt do E1porlo 218
lle de a.uW 149
Herdade do Moucht.6 21g
Illa 2'3
H.rdade do Floclm 218
lllats 100
Herded• Outelros Attoa 21a
Hok 270
H•rmanu1 378-377
lmbot
t
lJl
lla
ta (all'orllinel
Her
rn
ltep 19, 128, l:Ja,
(definition) 168
1H-1U
lm-1 271
HermannDr232
lnema 181
Hermannaber1 vineyard 236 Incl•• aft• Aocohet
ta.
family
Herman
no
h6hlo 238
341
Her
ren1>e
r1lM0Mi) 227
India 41, S95
Herren-•r1 (Pfalzl 243
lndoc� G-"1\c•
H�1na 2e7
Prot91ldailndlc-
HM• CoJ1ect1on 112
Geo1rt1
1c
a,._.
.,.
..,
lndlcazlon• Geoaraftca
Protet
ta
ltndlcatton
G"'1raphlque Prot'lf
f
JH IGP
lndlcaQatl• di Proc11dlncla
aH IPa
lndlcaz1on1 G&Olf'&ftca Tlpk:a
a11 IGT
lndonffl& 386
Inferno 168
lnJl
l
enook 310, 314
lnnere L•late �
lnstltut dH Sclencea d• la
Vll"..t du Vin 103
lnt1palka 330
lnzolla sr� 186
Iona 3IM
lphofen 247
IP1 (lndlc"'l5e• de
Procedtncla) 331
Iran 48
lrancy 77
Iron Horse 305
lroul4guy 114, 774
lrrlptlon 20, 20, 23
lrsal Ollv4r F1
1P9
282
Isabella/Isabel 1rape 276,
289, 331
lschla 182
Islas Canar1a1 191
Israel 217
Jssan, Ch d' 98
lstrta 270 -271
ltahen R1Hltng/Rlealing
ltahcogrape 17 171, 270,
389 390
ltely 1113-188 Central
172-1SI climate 25
history ofwlnemakln& 11.
North- 184-171
North'"
"
at 111
1
-1113
phylloxera 25, 27, Sardinia
189 Sicily 184-186
Southem 182-183 terro1r
31, vineyard land prtees 47
vineyards 48 wine labels
156, wme production 10,
49
ltuca 1rape 289
ltata 334, 337
lvanc.. Winery 326
IXSIR 286
Jaboulet 130, 132, 133
Ja.boulet Atnii§. Paul 98, 133
Jeckoss Hill 306
Jackson Family Wines 321,
356
Jocob's Cre
e
k 350, 352
Jacqu•re 1rspe 151. 152
Jadot 62
Jadot, LOUIS 56
Jaen 1rape 217
Jamdal1 &rape 287
Jamot 130
Jamah- 359
Jansz 366
Japan 388-387
Jarel 203
J'sdl, lstv•n 283
Jasmin 130
JaonltrH 118
Jasper Hiii 360
Jeboal , Clos 127
Jefferson , Thomas 59, 289,
323
Jen1en, Jo1h 317
Jerez 47, 204
Jerez de la Frontera 204
205
Jeaultenprten vineyard 243
Jlclvel 273
Joanln Becot. Ch 1011
Joch1n1 268
Johann1sb•r& 252
John1on. Hu&h 265
JonH, Dom 140
JonH, Dr Gre1ory 21
Jon1teux 152
Jonker1hoek Valley 382
Jordan, Dr Tony 390
Jordan family 242
Joat. Toni 226
Joven 191
Juanlc6 332
Juclaan Hill• 287
Jutrer vln1yard 231
Juffer·6onnenuhr vineyard
231
Juhfark 1rap• 282, 283
Jujuy 338. !39
Jul·Plantoie 267
JQlc 242
Jul�nu 74
Jullu.. P'ta' Htate 24e
JuliMln Andre 132 13'1
Jumtlla 190
Jun.. �Wei Neue Winzer
21
Jura 110-111
Jur
Jurl• 281
Jurtachltach, Alwin 258
Jui. Cloe 88
Ju1tln vineyard 348
Kablnett (definition) 225
Kadarka IJ'ape 21
1
2,283
Kalurotuhl 24'4, 246
Kakhetl 278, 279
Kalecik Kll'UI 1rope 285
Kalkofen 242
Kallmet 1r- 287
Kallotadt 243
Kamen 308
Kammerber1 vineyard 242
Kamptel 254, 21
18-
261
1
Kanun 390
Kanprllla 354
Kanprilla Road 355
Kangaroo Island 354
Kanonkop 382
Kanzem 228
Karabunar 275
Karnataka 385
Korpetski. Perla 21
1
6
Karseru winery 284
Karthlunrhof 227
Kartll 278-279
Kartll• Deda monument 279
Kaitela 271
Katerzyna eotate 275
Katnook 357
Koto11 Averoff 280
Kauffmann, Mathieu 242
Kavaklldere 285
Kavala 280
� Brothoro 354
�family 356
K9.)'ra 285
Ketr11
11
a, Ch 288
Kekerengu 373
K4kfronkOl 1"8P9 262, 283
�knyelu grope 262, 263
Kakoporto gropo 262
Kollor 236, 239
Keller Frttz 244
Keller. Hedw11 238
Keller Klaus Peter 2381 239,
240
Kerner vape Germany
224. 228, 236, ltely 167.
Japan 387 Switzerland
253
K81"SChbaum 261
Kershaw, Richard 384
Kesseler, August 236
Kesselstatt. Re1chsgraf von
227, 232
KEY FACTS PANELS
21, Argenttna 340,
Austraha.. Barossa Valley
351, Coonwarra 357,
Healesv11Je 363,
Launceston 366 ,
Lenswood 356, Lower
Hunter 365, Margaret
River 349,
Austria 259
Bulgaria 274
Canada Okanagan Valley 292,
Niagara Peninsula 293,
Chlle 334
China. 390
Crimea 277
England 249
France Alsace 127 Bordeaux
84, Burgundy 56,
Champagne 82,
Languedoc 141 Lolre 117,
Rh6ne 128, 135. Rouss1llon
145
Germany Baden 245,
Rhemgau 217
Greece 281
Hungary 265
Italy Alto Ad1ge 157,
Fr1ullNenez1a G1uha 171,
Northwest 157, Southern
183, Tuscany 176, Umbrta
181, Veron"D. 168
,Japan 387
New Zealan d Blenheim '173
N.\p1er 369
Portugal Ah.mteJO 21 9,
0001 o 211 l tsboa 215,
Mada•r• ?21
Romania 213
South Af'r1r.:a '38�
":.pa1r1 CAt.&1unyll 200 Je1 oz
2Qi:,, l ,J fl. r"OO() 198, Alas
Aaixf\& 193 AHJ8fa del
Du1c ro 1qo
bw1tzE1rlancJ 252
KhooYal 38e
Khlkhvl 11'""9 278
KhlndOl"l F- 2T
T
Khoury, Ch 2ee
Klodrlch 237
Klentzhetm 129, 127
Klnelberg 242
Klkjlophll'& vlneyll'd 386
K1Ukanoan 353
Kill�. Dr Barry 348
Klncoem Vi,,_rd 284
KJndenhe1m 243
Kini Valley 358, 363
Kirily 286
KiriJyle'"yka FOpe 262
KlrchonotUck(Rhelnpu) 237
KlrchenotUck (Pfalz) 243
Kirk. Dr John 386
Kirk. Tim 366
Klrochprten 243
Kirsten 230
Kirwan. Ch SIS
K1sl e;rape 278
Kistler 308
Krtter1' 127
Klein Constanba 380
Klein Karo
o
19, 378
Kloster am Sprtz 261
Kloster Eberb&ch 10 17, 2Z1
Klosterneubura: 2M
Klusserath 230
Knappstem 353
Knebel 23
3
Knewttz 239
Knights Valley 306
Kn1paer brothers 243
Knoll, Emerteh 258
Knoll, Ludwig 8, 246
Koch, BernMtd 242
Koehler-Ruprecht 243
Ko!U 387
Kollwent:z. Andi 261
Kolonlcs 263
KOfll& Robert 236
Kon)VI, Ji.nos 263
Konz- Nledermennlg 228
Kooten� 292
Kooyong 361
Kopfenste1ner 261
Korfula 271
Korea 385
Koshu &"- 386. 387
Kosovo 267
Kourtakls 280
Kouts1 283
KoWc8 Nlmr6d 263
K6vaao 265
Kbv1dinka grape 262
Kracher. Alo1s 260
Kracher. Gerhard 260
Kra1chgau 245
Kranz, Boris 241
Kras 268
Krasnostop vape 277
Kratot1Ja grape 267. 271
Kri.uterberg 226
Krav•k vtneyard 266
Kregllnger Wine Estatea 386
Krelnbacher 263
Krems 259
Kremstal 254, Ul-211
Kreuzberl family 2211
Kr1echal, Peter 228
Krone, Wein1ut 236
Kronke, Stan 319
Krono1 vlnityard 313
Krug 82, 83
Krua. Charles 313
Kruger, Roll 378
Kruger Rumpfeatate 23&
Krutzler, Erich 25&
Krutzler, Hermann and
Reinhold 280
Krutzler fa rntly 2e1
Ksara, Ch 286
Kuban 276
Kuban Vino 277
Kuentz Bu 12e
Kuhlln1 Gillot 240
Kuhn Peter Jakob 2:37
Kuhn Philipp 243
Ku1tpo 356
Kujundlul1t 1rape 270
Kunde 308
Kuns&a 2112
Kunttler 237
KutJevo 270
Kvarnar 270, 271
Kydonltaa lrai>e 21$
Kyol
l
o1r-31
11
1
317
Kyperounda 214
Kyu5hQ 387
LADomdo10tl
l A�•ct•• Blanc .,...
..
;.191
L A &die Yu'•)'W• !19'1
An&1<>1"9 Dom 137
A.rroM.. C.:h 110
Aur..• 108
Ee.Me� 4'1-'0
0
a1111
1
e Clu. 1ot

£111ae ,. ..
.t
Ch1oe1oa
!.Mr.ta 202
ENn•t• 133
E'toil• 1!10
L'hllftltl•. Ch 10I
L'Hermtu 132, 133
LHttro 108
L'Horlron. Oom d4o 145
L Oboe C•o• da 202
L'Orpa1Heur 2g1
LaMl\lda Domda 141
1
La Soudriott• 89
La Braconca 180
La Cappue1;1na 188
La Cardonnt, Ch 81
La CarNra 338, 341
La Ch-il• 132
La Chapeilo· Houlln 118
La Chenada, Ch 108, 109
La Clapa 140
La CloHrl• du
Grand · Pouj•aux , Ch 9e
LaComme 69
La Contelllant•. Ch 108
La Con1ulta 341
La C6t• 21
13
La Dorian• 131
La Eacuellta 327
La Fleur de Bouard, Ch 108
La Flour do Go.y Ch 108
La Fl•ur- P'1;ru1, Ch 108
La Ger1a vineyard 24
La Gom•ra 191
la Grande C6te 122
La Grand• Au1 64, 65
La H�o. Ch 90
La Horra 195
La Lqun•. Ch 98, 99
La Landonne 130
La Llv1n1•re 140
La Louvltra, Ch 102
La Mad•9'ne, Clos 110
La Madone 74
La Mancha 191
La Marca d1 San Michele 172
La M8]anelle 143
La Mia.Ion Haut·Brion, Ch
102. 103
La Mission Haut-Bnon Blanc,
Ch 102
La Mondotte, Ch 110
La. Morra 162
La Moubne 130. 131
La Mouu1We 122
Lo. Palma 191
La Perrl9re 66
La Plneta 175
La Pousste 122
La R1v1•ra. Ch de 106
La Rame. Ch 100
La RtOJ& 339
La RloJa Alta 195
LaRloJl
ll
l&
339
La Aoehe Vmeuse 70
La Rochoile 74
La Rochopot 58
La Aoflette 74
L&Romanee 84
La Romanh·Conb 64
L& S.rgue 106
La TAche 64, 65
La Tour Blanche, Ch 104
LaTourcarnet. Ch 94
LaTourdeBy,Ch 88
LaTourde Mona, Ch 96
La Tour Haut Brion, Ch 102
La Turque 130
La Vlalileres 131
La Violette, Ch 108, 341
Labegorco. Ch 98
Labegorc:•·Zod• 98
Laccento 158
LacertA 272
Lackner-Tinnacher 255
L&Croacant 1rape 289
Lacryma Chrlatl 182
Ladolx63
Ladoucette, de 123
Lutltia 321
Laraurie Payrquey. Ch 104
L.al
lta
. Ch 88.90,82,390
Laflour, Ch 109
Lafnet1ch& .,.
.
,,.252
Lafon 69
Lafon , Oom1n1qu1 89
Lafon Roctiot. Ch 90
L&Fou 200
Lagenw•1n 239
Lqorthl rape 283
Lqranp. Cb 94 95, '3I
I1
La
ara
1nrape1511,187
L..,-.1n-Ounkel 167
Laarain-� 187
Lalbl•. AndroM 244, 24�
Laka, Max 384
Lake Cholan 294, 2911
Laka County 304
Laka Erl• 324
Lake EMe North Shore 293
Lake Gaorp 385
Lake Mendocino 302
Lalande-
-
8orte. Cl'I 84
Lalande de·Pomilf'OI 1oe.
108. 109
Lamarque, Ch de -9
9
Lam� Cloe dH Ml
Lambrueo
o
1&1, 1«M
Lambntaco ,vape 38. 184
Lance, David 392
Lane•, Jemea 1e2
Landlru 100
Landmark Vll'layard 308
Landwaln ldal
l
nltlon) 225
LanHNn , Ch 98
Lana•nlol• 2&8, 2611
Lanaho 158, 180. 182
Lanah• Nebblolo 168. 181
Lanthorna C-k 31
16
Lanaoa !larton, Ch 114
Lanauna llldl• 306
Lantlan" 72
Lanzarota 24. 101
Lapoaa. !lanco 283
Lapoatoil• 338
Larcl1 DuCUM. Ch 110
Lark Hiii 388
Lornaka 284
L&ro&e-Trlntaudon, Ch 94
Larrlvet Haut-Brion, Ch 102
Lu Compu1rtu 341
Laacombe1, Ch 98
Ldkl Rlzllna F&P• 289, 270
Latour, Ch 88. 90. 92. 92, 113,
108.131. 312
Latour, Louis 56,62,68, 129.
147
Latour • Pomerol, Ch 108
Latour de-France 144
Latou r- Mart1llac, Ch 102
Latrtci9r11 66
Lauds 132
Laudun 134
Lauer, Ftortan 228
Lauer, Peter 228
Laulan Ducos, Ch 88
Laumershelm 243
Launceston 366
Laure- M1nervo1s 140
Laurel Glen 308
Laurent-Perrier 80
Laurent.us� 230
Lavaut St·Jacquea 66
Lavaux 253
Lav1lle Haut Brion. Ch 102
Lazartd1, Coata and Nico 280
Lazio 172
Le Boscq, Ch 90
L1 Callleret 60
Le Carquehn 74
Le Clos 74
Le Clos du Roi 63
Le Corton 63
Le Crock, Ch 90
Le Cul de Beau1•u 122
Le Galla1a estate 228
LI Huet Lieu 121
Le Lude 383
La Meal 132. 133
Le M1&nll 82
Le Mont 121
Le Montrachet 69
Le Pallet 11e
Le Pape, Ch 102
Lo Petit Mouton 92
La Pin 106, 108
Le Pouyalet 93
La Pupllle ..uta 175
La Reverdy 133
Le Rlchebourg 68. 64
Le Roy. Baron 40, 138
Le Soula 146
Le Strotte 1511
LaTMCh102
Le4nyka gr- 282. 276
Lebanon 10, 211e
Lach1nta 273
Lechkhuml 279
Leconfield 367
Leda, Clllf 315
Leeu Puaant 383
LMUWen. Cornell& van 87. 112
LHUWln Estata 348, 349
Lllkoda F•P• 284
Lalkadia 2n
Lllkoola 284
Lel
l
alvo 89
Lef\awe, Anne-Claude 69
Lell�Gm 283
L•lll. Ot
tO
21!13
Lohmann, P-r 360, 362
Lo1nh6hl• 242
LolthabOf'I 284. 280, 281
Laitz 238
Ltlwan 230
Lembarpr F•J>O 248
Le,,
,_
.284
LemnOli 2a2
L•mpe lU
Londo l'El ..
.
pe 114
L•nchon 237
LancquoMlna. Mo,v Ellane de
382
l.tln--
l.
.j
utomrOrmot2e8
IAo_., 102
Llodoner ,.
..
utF-1"'4
L.On.JeAI\20
0
Llano Eatac•do wfnery 32CS
Leonetti 30
0
Lo Abarca 338
L'c>vllle llarton, Ch SM. 88
LOICl<ar 174
L""'"'"LuCuff.Ch••114 Loche88
L'°"lll• Poyter..
.
. Ch114.341
Lockwo
od
317
Laroy, Dom 84
Lodi 111
Le• Amoureuu1 68, 66
Loowan. CArl 230
LH .A.tPf'\9• 111M
Locrono 1ue
Laa Baux.- da - Provenea 147
Lohr, J 320
LH Bre11andH 83
Lolmer 261
L•• Brorne1 291
Lolmer, Fred �58
Lal !ruy•re1, Dom 133
Lolra Vailoy 111-113
LH C1plt1n1 74
Lol1lum Hotel, Lan1enlot1
Les Carmel Haut-Brion, Ch
258
102
Lombardy 166
Lei Charm .. (Ch1mboUe1·
Lona l•land 19, 324
Muol1nyl 80. 8e
Loni yan FOPA 388
Loa Charm" lMoraonl 76
Lonswcrth, Nlcholu 289
LH Charme1 Godard, Ch
LOOMn, (Or) Ernl 232, 30
0
108
L6pe1 de Heredia bodep.
LHCl01 78
IS7. 1UU
LH C�ombettea 80
Lorch 231
1
Lea Cornuda 136
Loreto Aprutlno 172
L.. Cr1ot& 80
Loi Alamoa 322
LH Cruzellea, Ch 108, 108
Loi Arbole1 331, 341
Las Ey1uot1 131
Loa Carnero• ... carn.ro1
LH Folatl•re;a 80
Lol C� 341
Lea Forti di Latour 92, 93
Loa lndloo 341
LH Garanti 74
Loa Llnaue• 33e
Lea GaudichOU 84, 65
LOI Olivo• District 322
Lea Gitnevrl•rea 80
Loubena, Ch 100
Lea Grande• Plac11 131
Loud1nn1, Ch 88
L•a Grands Ch6nea, Ch 88
Loul•, Cloo 108
Lea Grands Cru 75
Louptac 100
LH Gravl•res 59, 62
Louplac-Gaudlet, Ch 100
Les GNchona 63
Lou ,.
.
lra Blanca 1rape 193
Les Gr9tneux 132
Lourelro/Louretra Ff.Pe
Lea Hauta de Jullen 138
192, 208
Lu Herveleta 66
Lauren�, LUIS 217
Lea Joyeuses 83
Lowburn 376
Les Monts Damn•• 122
Lower Hunter 384
LH Moriers 74
Lower Oranp 378
Les Mou1lle1 74
Lubent1ushof 233
L•• Ormes de Pez. Ch 90
Luberon 134
Les Ormaa Sorbet , Ch 88
Lupna 1rape 164
Les Perrl9res 60
Luany 69
Les Pervenches 291
Luk& 263
Lei P1erre1 vmeyard 308
Lump vtneyard 246
Laa Pucelles 60
Lunellea, Clos 106
LH Quatre Vents 74
Lunes, Cloa dM 106
Les Aenardes 63
Lungarottl, Dr Giorgio 181
Les Aocoulea 133
Lup1er, Dom 197
Les Romain& 122
Lur-Saluces family 104
Les Augiens 62
Lurton, And,.
.
102
Les St-Georges 64
Lurton, B•'"
"1
1ce 104
Laa Thonns 74
Lurton. Fr&n!SOll 196, 341
Les Vaucrlns 94
Lurton, Henri 327
Las V'rlllats 74
Lurton . Jacques 364
Leapault Martdlac, Ch 102
Lurton , Pierre 100
Lasquerd1 144
Lurton, Sophie 102
Lessona 156
Lurton family 98. 100
Las-, Ch 96
Lusatta Park 362
Lethbr1d1e 380
Lussac 106
Lett. Dov1d 29e. 297
Lutomer 268, 289
Leura Park 380
Lutzv1lle 378
Lovet 130
LuKembourg 53. 227
L.exla vapa 17
LVMH 66, 104. 191
1
,312.390
Leyda Valley 336
Lynch Bq;as, Ch 90, 92, 93
Loynes 69, 72
Lynch Moussas. Ch 93
Llbourne 106
4froral<ls 282
Librandi 183
Library Vineyard 313, 373
MA (marqu• d'ochoteur)
Llcan�n 337
(deftn1tlon) BO
L1ehlne, Alexis 98
Mac Forbes 360
Llch1n1, Sacha 146
Macabeo/Maccabeu lf'IPI
Llchtenberpr Gonzalez 261
17, France 140, 144. Spain
L1corna W1nehousa 272
189. 198, 199, 20
0
Llcoroso Saga 216
Macan 198. 199
Llef'rauensttft Klrchenstuck
McCallum, Dr Nell 370
vineyard 239
Maccleafteld 356
Llebfrau mlich 224, 238, 239
McCloud, Jennifer 323
Lieser 232
McOonaJd. Tom 389
Llgurla 157
MacDonald family 314
Llkya 285
Macodon Ranlf
f
380, 363
L1llac 273
Macedonia 280
Lilian Ladouy,, Ch 90
Macharnudo 204
Lillian Eatat• 348
McHenry Hohnen 3-49
Lliloo
o
t 292
McKinley Sprlnp 298
Lima CP•ru) 330
McLaren VaJ• 384-31
1
Lima (Portupl) 209
McMal>on, Dr 382
Llmarl 336
McMlnnvlll1 2118, 21
1
7
LlmHtone Coast 346
MAcon 88
Llmnlo 1rape 280
Mlcon - PrlH' eg
Umn1ona trAPI 280
Mtcon VIII-• 69
Llmoux 140
Mlconnala 64, n
Lindeman'• 357
Maculan, Fautto 184
Lindquist Family 322
Macvln du Jura 161
Lin11nbu1ch 243
McWililam·1 3115, 369
Llquoro10 (dlf'nltlon) 155
Mad 40, 286
Llroc 138
Mad1lra 11 , 18, Se, 207, 220,
Ll1boo ll11
11
11
0-221
Llabon 216
Madeira, Ant6nlo 216
Lie... Dom d•• 133
Madelren1• 221
Lleon 1&4
Madeleine Anpvlne sraPtl
Llson Pramaulore 184, 171
2114
U•tan Blanco 1rapo 1111
Mod•l•lno Floyalo ll'&PA 260
Ll1ttn NoFO 1rapa 181
Madlran 38 114. 1111
L11trac 115, US. 87
Madra1a1rape 277
Livermore Valley 316
Maduro (deftnitlon) 207
M1Proch 278
Mqd.lalne, Ch 110
Mq11oc:co Canino Fai>e 113
Mq11ocoo Dole• ,,_ 182.
113
M""'y lh Vlllarl 81
Mqonl, Camilo 327
Maaraz. !larnard 102
Maharuhtra 316
M..er, llH 2ISI
M•llbarl 264
Main l'lld10 381
MaJnd,.
.
lock 248
Malnvlorack 247
Malpo 26, 334, 33e
Ma1pU 341
Mljalla 387
MMIP 11. 203
Malqou1la 1rape 280. 213
Malart1c Lqrovltro. Ch 102.
341
MaJat 28
8
Malat1nozky 282
Malboc .,._ .,.'"' au.
Arpnt1na 38, 338-338,
340,341; Au1tralla 346.
34Q; charac:terl1tlc1 1e
Chilo 336. 337, DNA
analyal1 14, Fronce 82, 113,
120. 141, Naw Zaaland 388;
North America 30
0
Malconaorta 84
Maldonodo 332
Malopira 141
MolalCUM, Ch U8
Maloacot St Exui>'ry. Ch 98
Mallaco 337
M.,lorca 191
Malmsay 283
Malolectlc converston 35
Malterdlnpn 244
Malvu1a Bianca V&P9 180
Malvula Branca de Slo
Jol'l• FOJ>O 221
Malvu..
.
de Colarea vaPI
216
Malvu6a dell• L1par1 184, 185,
271
M.,vuta d1 Bou. 1se
MalVUta d1 Cuorzo d'Astl
158
Malvuia Fina srape 210, 221
Malvaslavape Croatia 271.
Graec• 283, Italy 155, 157,
176. 271, North Am1r1ca
32e. Portugal 213, 220 .
Spain 198
Matvula latrtana &rape 171
M.,vas1a Nera vape 182, 183
Malvu1a Preta vape 213
M.,vufa Alo,.na. &rape 199
Malvaxia Paxx1to 323
Malvu1]a Dubrovack& arape
271
Malvazl1a lstarska srape 2"8,
270
Malvo1s1e 252
Molvolsie ..- 158. 186
Malvolat• de Corse vape
149
Malvoi ... du Aousa1llon lf'&pe
144
Mamertlno 185
Mammolo vape 149
Manchuela 190
Maney B2
Mandolpfad 243
Mandelsteln 225
Mandement 253
Mandilorla .,._ 282
Mandurla 183
Manett1 family 755
Man1lva 203
Manj1mup 348
Mann, Albert 127
Mann, Jack 348
Manou, Cloe 88
Man..
..
..
201
Manso de Vetasco 337
Mantinia 283
Manto Naaro F- 191
Maori 371
Maramuret 273
Maranp1 58
Moraltlna F- 270. 271
Marathertlko 1rape 284
Marathon du M�oc 92, 96
Marcualn 307
March• 172
March110. (Marchlhu•l 336
Marcllloc 114
Marcobrunn 237
Ma.
.e
chal Foch ar- 22, 2g1.
282
Ma.
.ec
hale, Clo• do la 64
Maremma 174-171
Maremma Totcan1 174
MIU'f
fta
l Yin-rd 1112
Moray 1•1-Fuasay 51
1
Marpllt 287
Marpret River 341
Mar-• M,92,lie,07
te-M 101
1
1 2e.ee.e1
Marpux ,Ch 915, 11
1
Marp11
1<
,Lucy 311
11
MarlaGomMFAPA 21e
Marlbor 211
1
,288
Marie lrizard 776
Ml:Manbur1 vtneyard 30
Marlanthal 228
Martsnan 182
Martmar Eatat• 3015
Marin 162
Marino 172
Morjo.... Ch 100
Markarl.flerland 245
Markow1tach. a.mard 2'5"4
Morlboroulh 387, 38
8
, 370,
172-374 cllmata 22,
vineyard land prlcH 47
Mormojualo F- 1111
Marque d 'acheteur (MA)
ld•ftn1tlon) 10
Marquatta .._ 288
Marqula d'Aleame, Ch 91, 98
Marqula d• Terme , Ch 91
Moroala 11, 181
1
Marun11&1
1
87
Mar1&nne 1rape1 Auatr.,la
380, Fronce 128. 121
1
, 131,
133. 134, 138, 140. 142, 1"'4.
larul 217, Switzerland
262
MarHlan rape 216. 389,
380, 332
Moroyu, Ch 288
Martha'a Vineyard 314
Mortial 132
MartillK 102
Martlnbof'OUlh 368. 370
Mart1nborouati Vineyard 370
Martinelli 305
Martinenp vineyard 180
Martini, Lou•• 308
Maryan 275
Maryland 290
Marzemino vaP9 166, 166
Mas Am1el 144
Mas de Daumas Guaac 142
MuDox202
Mu La Plana 200
Mas Martinet 202
Mascarello 182
Mui 169
Maasandra winery 276, 276
Musaya 286
Mass.na 350
Masterton 370
Mutrob1rarchno. Antonio
182
Matanzas Creek 308
Mataro F- 16. 345, 360
Matasaa 145
MatetlC 336
Matro 2e2, 263
Matras, Ch 110
Maucatllou, Ch 98
Mauer 254
Maule 334. 338, 337
Maul.. An11ollno 164
Maurer Bera 254
Mouro 195. 196
Moury 1"'4
M&ushOhl• 242
Mautern 257
Mauves 128
Mauvesln Barton , Ch 9e
Mauzac grape TI4, 141
MavroF&Pe 284,284
Mavro Kalavritlno 1rape 283
Mavrodaphn• .,._ 283
Mavroabfo vape 283
Mavrotracno Fl.P9 280
Mavrud F- 275
Maxim• Herkuntt
Rhllnhessen 238
Mo.vach..
.
.r 226
M11¥5Chosaer Wlnzerverem
228
Mazeyre1 . Ch 29
Maz1s G6
Mazo� 167
Mazoyiirea 86
Mazu•lo ar- 17, 186, 198
Mazza srape 348
Muzllh, Au.,.ro 165
MeodowbankForm 372
M•aJ 132
Mechuque 337
Medlmurje 270
Mediterranean 285
M•doc 25, 84. 87, ContraJ
H-87 Northern •-•
Southern H-H
Mffrluat 382
M..raburt: Stetten �
Mel)'lr vineyard 2&4
Melaaen 227
Me111y11r-2n
Molpc;o 209
Moll 337
Mellot, Alphonse 123
INDIX
HI
Mtlnlk 211e
Melnik M .,._. 218, 278
M•1o11ey ea
Melon d• l!SourSQln• .,..,.
14, 118. 117
Me�Mlmer. Thoraten 227.
233
Manada, Dom
Mencia 1r9PI 102, 1
Mandoc:lno 304
Mendoza 2� 138. .'!I
I
.340.
341
M•ndoza, Abel 181, '99
M•ndoza, Enrtque 190
M4tndrl110 261
Menetou· Salon 123
�n'1:r9ol sou1 Sancerre
122, 123
Menti, Giovanni 184
�ntrlda 188. 181
Mentz.klpouloa family 9&, 98
Mer Sol•il Chardonnay
Yl""lfard 317
Merawl 1rape 287
M•rc1an. Ch 388, 31
1
8. 387
Mercurey 88
Mer1nzao 1rape 192
Meridian winery 320
Morlanoc 84
Merlun Vlneyll
l'd
a 32e
M•rt&ut ram1ly 94. 9e
M1rlln, OUvl•r 70
Mertot Bianco 261
Merlot VAP• &1•m1 39,
Ar1entlna 339, 341.
Au1traha 341it, 367, Austria
261, Brazil 331 , Bul1ar1a
274, 275, character11tics
14 Chll• 333, 334, China
389, 390. Croatia 271,
Franc• 84, 88, 98, 98. 108,
110, 113, 141. Germany 224,
GrHC1 280; harvest1n1
32, Hungary 282, Italy
166. 161. 184. 167, 168, 170,
171, 172, 174, 176, 180,
Japan 386, 387, Moldova
276, Naw Zaaland 368.
389; North AmeNca 292,
293, 298, 30
0
, 304, 305,
308 309, 310, 311. 312, 315,
319. 323, 324, Portugal
208, Romania 272, 273,
Russia 2n, Slov1n1a 268,
South Afr1ea 380, 382,
Spain 190, 1111, 197.
Switzerland 251, 263.
Ukraine 276, Uruguay 332
Meroni 169
M1rrk:ks 361
Mertasdorf 227
Merwal
l
F- 286
Meskhet1 279
Mesland 120
Messaae in a Bottle 238
Mess1n1a 283
Motola vineyard 365
M� clau1que/met.hode
tradition.He (deftn1tion) 52
Metlllka tmina 269
Metodo clus1colmltodo
_,_ 156
Motoh1J& 267
Metsovo 280
Meursautt 57. 58, 60, 61
M..
.,.
..
..
.
lt Blqny 80
Mmuco 48. 327
Moyor-Nlkal 228
Maynoy, Ch 90
�zes Feh,r arape 282
M•zos Mtly 265
Maz6zombor 285
Mlchael, Peter 306
Mlchelab
ers
(Mt
ttelmoMI
)231
Michol•barl (Pfalr) 243
Mlch1pn 290
Mlcro·o>eypnat1on 36
Mlddla Molal (M1ttalmoMI)
227, 230-23
3
M1ddlaton, Dr 382
Mlalbauar, Frttz 258
M1kulovako 26
6
Mllawa 368
Mltdara 357
Mtkiew 77, 29
MIUbro
ok
325
Mdl'91me 62
Mills, Gary 359
Mllrnanda 20
0
Milo 186
M1naral
lty
26
Minervo.a 140
MinervotS·La Llv.nlh 140
M1nlt 273
M1nu1tlllu ..
..
.,
,.
149
Mlnutok> srape 183
M1olo Wine Group 331, 331
MlroaJio, E- 275
Mis (en bouterllel au chltNu/
domain•/• la propnet•
(deftn1tion) 52

396
INDEX
M�sket Chevren INPli ..
.
Red MooketV­
M11ket l"ape 285
M1eket Sandansk• � 275
M1sket Varnensk1 arape 275
Miaket Vr.chan1kl 1.-.P• 275
Mission &rape 289, 321. 334
331
1
M1ss100 San Frarte1sco de
Solono308
M1Mt0n winery 370
Missouri 290
M1tchet
t
on360
Mlt1&Vde. Fr•�·· 106
MrtJaYIJe, Loi.
.n
a106
Mtttetbach fomlly 256
Mlttelbur1onland 2� 260,
261
Mlt
tO
lhurdt 241. 242-243
Mrt
t
elheim 237
Mttt1lrheln 224. 225
MOa 217
Mocc..
.
tta vineyard 161
Modra Frank1n1a grape 269
Mod�Hory 26
6
ModryPortup.l..
..
pe
268
Mott & Chandon 338, 363
Mocador, Clos 202
Mopo 390
M�dO\I& 48, 49, 276
�dovan Hills 272
Molett11rape 152
Mohna 337
Mollnara grape 169
Mohno Real 203
Mohs• 183
Molitor, Markus 227, 228,
232
MonastreU grape 16, 190.
20
0
Monbazlllac 113
Mon�io 209
M6nchbors 226
Mondav1 320
Mondav1. Robert 310 314,
349
Mond•iar 191
MondeUH lf"aPl
l
151, 152
Monemvas1a grape 282, 283
Monemvas1a Malvas1a 283
Monemvas1a Winery 283
Monferrato 159
Monferrato Casalese 158
Monforte d'Alba 162
Monica arape 186
Mon11r·Perrtiol 128
Monopoles 54
Monprtvato vineyard 162
Monsordo Bernardina estate
158
Mont, Ch du 100
Mont de M!lleu 78
Mont Granier 153
Mont- sur Rolle 253
Mont Taueh 140
Mont Ventoux 134
Montq;ne (Bordeaux) 106
Montaane de Re1m1 BO. 82
Montqny 68
Montalbera 158
Montalcmo 47. 171
Montana 372
Mont• 8_.I< 1neyard 31e,
317
Monte da Aavuque1ra 21Q
Monte dall Ora 16Q
Monte de1 Rqnl 189
Monte Ao110 vineyard 308
Monte Santocclo 16Q
Monte Xanlc 327
Montecucco 174
Montecucco San&1ov1u 174
Mont.f
f
de Tonnerre 78. 7'f)
Montefalco Sqrant1no 181
Montelena, Ch 312
Mont•n•vo 267
Montepulc1ano 16. 180
Montepulc1ano d'Abruuo 172
Montepuk:lano d'Abruzzo
r.
.o
mne Teraman• 172
Montepulclano 1rape 172,
11J, 131, 338. 346
Montere110 di MUN
Marttt1ma 174
Montoroy 316, 317
Monterret 1�2
MontH (Chtlel 336, 337
MontH lSp«JnJ 203
Mont.Mcuda10 176
Montev1d.o �32
Montez, StAphane 128
Mont1ueux 81
Montrte'.. e1
Mol'ticello l2'1
M01 ttn1. Mor1IH :204 �04.
205
Montn�• d• t'2
MonUI.. Etianne :le 381
Mont.landna Ci"' 108
Montlc.w.111 ..
..
.
M<lntpe�r.xi• 144
Montrachet e,&, 60
Montravel 113
Montro.._ Ch go, 91, 119
Monts Lulaants es
Montunt 200. 202
Monv11Hero vlr'91yard 162
Monnrnhelm 239
Monzln1en 234, 235
Moon Mountain 308
Moorabo
o
l Volley 380
Moordla Estate 366
Mooro
od
uc 3«51
Mooabruuer, Mlchael 268
Moququa 330
MO. 262. 263
Mora, Fem.ndo 190
Morava ,.
..
pe 267
Moravia 26
6
Moravta Aar1a V*PI 190
Moravian Muscat grape 266
M6rblsch 261
Moreira. Jori• 217
Morelli Lane 305
Morellino d1 Scansano 16, 175
Moreacon• crape 149
Moreto grape 219
Morey 66
Morey St· Denis 66
Morpot 69
Morps 253
Morcon 74
Mot"'tC 260, 261
Mor1llon grape 255
Mor1stel ll"l.P9 190
Mornlngton Peninsula 22,
391
Morocco 48
Morokanella grape 21M
Morrutel srape 198
Mornsette, Ch 323
Morschetd 227
Morsteln 239
Mosbacher, Georg 243
Moscadello d1 Montalc1no 179
Ma&eatel de Ale]andr1a 339
Moscatel de Grano Menudo
srapo 197
Moacatel de Setubal 215
Moscatel crape 17, Brazil
331, Chile 335, 337,
Portup.I 213, SpOJn 203.
204. 205
Moscatel Roxo 1rap1
1
215
Moscato Bianco 1rape
17, 156, 185
Moscatod'Asti 158
Mose.to d1 Noto 185
Moscato d1 Pantellerfl
l
185
Moacata d1 Siracusa 185
Moscato Gtallo rape 164
Moseoto v- 158. 180
MoschoftJero gape 283
Mosel 24 , 224, 227
Moooltor 227
Moaer, Lenz 389
Moser, S.pp 258
MoH Wood 349
Most 2ee
Mouches. Clo1 d•• 62
Moue1x. Chnst1an 108, 3l4
Mouelx, Edouard 108
Moue1x, Jun- Fr�o11 108
Moue1x. Jean· Pierre 108, 108
Mouhn • Vent 74
Moulln Riche, Ch 94
Moull1 on· M'®c 96, 97
Mount Barker (SA) 368
Mount Barker (WA) 3'47
Mount Benson 348
Mount Edelatone 352
Mount Eden 318
Mount Etna 1H Etna
Mount Gambler 34e
Mount Harlan 317
Mount Hood 296
Mount Lan11 Ghlran 369
359
Mount Mary 362
Mount VedHr 312
Moura 218
MourWdre arape A.rpntlna
339, Au1tralla 346. 360,
354. eharacterl1tk:1 11
Fronce 134. 13fl, 138. 1'40,
142, 144, 146, 146, 147, 148,
l1r..1 217, North America
30
0
, 328, Spain 190
Mouton · Codot 112
Mooton Flothochild Ch 112,
116
Mt•vaN Kakhuf'I rape 211
Mudpo 31
16
Muhr-van d•r N6epo
o
rt2i4
MuJuretuh 1rape 27Q
Mulho1m 232
Mullen. Martin 232
Mullor Eaon 221
1
, 229,21
18
Mutter Matthl• 226
Muller Thurpu arape
character11tto1 14
< ar:h1a 268. fnatand 248:
Germany 223, 224, 227.
228, 238. 241, 244, 246,
24e, ttaly 1e1, Luxemboura:
G3. 227, Now Zooland 3e8,
North Ame rtca 294,
Switzerland 260
Mullineux Family Wines 381,
383
Mundln..n 246
Munaon, Thomas V 326
Monster Sarm•helm 234,
236
Muntenla 272
MurO 126, 127
Murat 132
Murfatlar 273
Murray O.rhn1 345
Murten 251
Musar, Ch 2Be
Muscadelle grape 95, 104,
113,360
Muscadet 43, 116
Mu1cadet C6te
e.u
xdela
Loire 116
Muscadet COtes de
Grandlieu 116
Muscadme vape 290
Muscarchn &rape 138
Muscat Balley A 1ra.pe 385.
366, 387
Mu9Cat (8'anc i. Petits
Grams) grape Albania
267, Ara:entlna 339-,
Australia 360,
characteristics 17
Corsica 149, France 124,
127, 128, 136. 142, Groeco
282, 283 , Hungary 2&4,
Romania 272, 273
Slovenia 268, 289
South Africa 379. 380.
Spain 197 Turkey 286
Mu1cat Bouschet grape 26e
Muscat de R1..
..
aaJte1 ,..
Muscat de St-Jeen de
Mtnervols 140
Musc:at ofAlexandrta crape
17, 185, 215, 286. 330
Muscat ofHambura srape
332
Muscat Ottonel grape 260,
266. 272. 274 275
Musella 169
Mu11sny 58, 65
Muskatelt.r lf'Ape 260
Must 33
Mu1t1cu1110 1go
Muatoul de: Mlderat 1rape
272
Muthenthaler, Martin 266
Myanmar/Burma 385
Myanmar Vineyards 386
Mybursh 382
Nachbll 273
Naches Heishtl 30
0
Nackenhe1m 240
Nqamb1e Lakes 360
Nopno 387
Noho 22� . 234-231
Nahe Sta
a
t1we1n1ut 236
Namaqua 378
Nancq:ua 336
Nantes 117
N1ntoux 68
N'°"a.. 280. 281
N-3CM
Napa Carnero1 309
Nopa Volley 302, 309,
310-312, climate 22,
terrolr 26, 29, vineyard
land prices 47
Napier 3eg
Narine• &rape 285
Narvaux 80
Nucetta 158
Nucetta 1rape 1&9
Nuco 1rape 186
Nuhlk 385
Naumbura 225
Navarra 197
Navarro Vineyard 304
Niac 106
Nebblolo d'Alba 168
Nebb.lolo 1rape Ar1entlna
33". Australia 34e, 355,
35'1, 8ulprl1 27&,
Germany 226, Italy 158
158. 180. 1e2, 1e3, Nol'th
Amork:a 304, 322. 323,
327
Nederbur1 382
No1ovc1oeort 281
�octant (deftnltionl 52
�1oclant · monlpulont INMI
(doftnltlon) 80
Nolotlnoktl Krajono 287
N.,
,._
tto ,,.,.
.
114
Nqroamor
O
vape 155, 1s2,
183
Novu do Or1aA9on1 272 273
Ne1ru de Purcarl 279
No1ru V1rto1 1rapo 272
Nol11 24 3
Nolvo 160
Nollo1 fomlly 228
Nelson 389
Nomh. 283
Neoplanta 1rap• 267
Nerello Cappucclo srape
184, 185
Nerello MucalHe 1rap1 16&,
184, 186
Nero d'Avola 1rap1 166, UM,
346, 354
Nero di Trolaar•P• 192, 183
Nervl 1156
Nesz:m"y 263
Neubura•r srape 254, 2eo
Neuchltel 251
Neumaa•n Dhron 230
Neuqu6n 341
Neu11edlersee 260, 261
Neusledlersee 254
Neustadt 241
New England (Austrahal 366
New Jersey 290
New Mexico 326
New South Wales 384-381
New York 289, 324-328
New Zealand 34
4
, 397..
.
375
Canterbury 371 Central
Qt.ago 376 climate 19.
Hawke's Bay HI
Marlborough 372-374
phylloxera 29 screw caps
37, soils ZT, 29. vineyard
land prices 47, vineyards
48, W11rarapa 370 wine
production 49
Newton Johnson 384
Neyret Gachet family 13'1
Nl•r• Escarpment 325
Nl..
..
..
srapo 386
NlapraPeninsula 293
Nice 146
N1ederberg Heiden vineyard
232,232
N1ederfoll 233
Nlederhausen 235
Niederhauser
Hermannsh6hle 236
N1eder6sterre1ch 254
N11llucc1u grape 149
Niepoort, Dirk 213, 214 216,
217
N1ero, R•m• and Robert 131
N1erste1n 239. 240
N1erste1ner Gutes Domtal
224 238. 2'40
N11tvoorblJ 383
N1ewodn1czansk1 Roman
227,228
N111 258
N11gata 387
Nlkol11hof 257, 268
Nlnpla 18 390
Nino Ne1r1 156
Ninth loland 366
Nlttnaua, Hans and Anita
2eo. 261
N1zza 158
NM Cn•1oc1ant manlpulant)
(deflnlt1on) 80
Noble rot SH botrytl1
Nocera lf'ape 185
Non·vlntqe {NV) (def'in1tlon)
80
Norhelmer Dellchen 236
NOl'to 203
North America Hl-317
California 301-112,
Canada ff1-2ta Mexico
827, NowYork 314-IU
Paclftc Northwe1t
214-801 Souttiw.ot
StotOI 321 vineyard land
prices 47 vineyard• 48.
Vlr11nla 313 wine
production 49
North Canterbury 371
North Cout 302, 303
North Fork 324
North Macedonia 287
North Otqo 375
Northern Cape 378
Northern Sonoma aot-307
Northland 3ea
Nol'ton 1r- 288, 290, 323
Noalola 1rape 161. 1M
NovaScotia 291
Novoc 1•- 272. J1
1
2, 273
Novartl• 196
Novello 1&8
Novy Svet ••tat. 276
Nozet. Ch de 123
Nu1ta·St·Geor..1 &4
Numanthla 11MJ
Nur.,us Fape 181
Nuriootpa 361
NuHlHtl'« ?IW
Nu1Hrhof 167
NV (non vlntoeol (doftnltlon)
ao
NyetlMber 248
Nyul6oz0 2e&
O Roool 183
O.k 31 barrolo 10, 35, 36,
36. 167, cork oak 37, 87,
206
Oak Knoll 01atrlct 310, 312
Oak Volley 384
Oakden• 360
Oakrld10 35e
Oakvlllo 312, 314
Oboldoh crape 286
Oborom mol 228
OberhauHn 234
Oberhluser BrUck• vineyard
235, 236
Oberloiben 256
Obermoeel 227
Oberrotwell 244
Oborstockstoll 254
Obsidian Ridge 304
Occh10 di Pernice 180
Occh1p1ntl 184
Ochoa 197
Oell de Perdrlx 251
Oestr1ch 237
Ot!lda 172
O..er, St,phane 130
Ohau 368
Ohio 290
Ohhpbors 231
Otdlum 220
Olsly 120
Ojai 326
Ojeda, Eduardo 204
Okanogan Foils 292
Okanogan Valley 24, 291
Okuzg6zu &rope 285
Olaszllszka 265
Olaszr.zlm& vape 262, 263
Olazabal, Francisco 217
Old Block Cabernet 360
Old Hill Vineyard 308
Old Vine Project 378
Ollfantl River 378
Ollv1er, Ch 102
Olmo, Harold 348
Olmo·a Reward 348
Oltenia 272
OltrepO PaveH 156
Omaka 373
Ondenc srape 114
Ontario 19. 28 2.91. 213
Opol'to 214. 214
Oppenheim 240
Oranp 365
Orange wine 33. 266, 268,
275, 278
Orbeha 275
Ord6'1ez. Jore• 203
Ord6"ez fa mily 190. 196
Ordonnac 88
Oregon 27, 2�. 296,
296-297
Oremus 264
Orpnlc viticulture 29, 30
Orlando 350, 362
Orlh.n1 116. 123
Orlh.n1 Cl•ry 116 123
Ornallala estate 174, 174
Orto1a 1r- 292
Ortenau 246
Ortsweln 265
Ort1weln• (deftnltlon) 225,
238
Orv1eto 181
Orvleto Clu1lco Secco 181
Orvleto Superlore 181
01oloto crape 1tl9
O'Shaulhneuy 312
01orno 337
01oyoo1 292
0111an 196
Oatortoc, Dom 124
Oltrolovl6 286
Othavaven 228
Ott , l!lornhard 254
OTW COsterrelch1tcih•n
Tradltlon1we1n&0ter)
208
Ovada 158
Ovid 312
Oxidation 32. 33, 34, 31
1
,38
Purt 382. 313
Pachoronc du Vic ..llh 115
Poc11
1c
Northwoot 114-301
Paco " Lola 193
Paddou 1ae
Padtha- 3"'tl
Pafoo 284
Popnl Flanoh 30e
PalOteolRoy 196
PaJon '"°"
"
260, 262
Pal• - 2118, 334, 335.
137 139
o.. ..
.
.'](lQ
Pa)Ori 180
Pajzo1 v1neyan;j 2&4
Palaclot, AJvaro 192, 202
Palac101, Descendlentft• de J
192
Palaclo1, Raful 192
Poilava •r- 286
Polet
to
148
Polhoto (definition) 207
Pallldlua 381
Pall..rollo arapo 182
Pollara 200
Polmola 216
Polmor, Ch 88
Palomino F1noarape 191 . 1Q2,
204 205
Paltrlnlerl 1&4
Pam1d 1rape 274, 275
Pannell. SC 365
Pannob1le aroup 280
Panquehue 336
Panu. Blanca 1"8P8 201
Panzano 178
Papazkarul grape 286
Pape C"ment, Ch 102
Popeaaalborg 382
Papas. Clos des 138
Paracombe 366
Paraje Altam1ra 341
Paralelo 327
Parawa 354
Parduccl 304
Paredones 336
Porollada crape 200
Parent, Henrr 341
Parlnp 361
Parl1, Vincent 128
Parker 367
P&ros 282
Parparouasis 283
Perra, Pedro 25, 25, 333
Parraleta &rape 190
Parr1na 175
Pua•deMol
laga
203
Pasler, Franz 261
Pasler, Mlchael 281
Paso Robles 319. 320, 321
Puserlna grape 172
Pau1to (deftnltlon) 155
Paasop11e1aro 185
Pastrana, C&rles 202
Pat.ache d'Aux, Ch 88
Patqonla 338. 341
Pato, Frhpa 216
Pato, LUIS 216
P6tra 283
Patras 281
Patrlmon10 149
Pautllac 47, 88. 92-93 97
Paulllac d• Chl.teau Latour
93
Pavell de Luze, Ch 96
Pavelka 26
6
Pav1e. Ch 106, 110
Pav1llon Blanc du Chlteau
Morpux 95. 98
Pavlld1s 280
Pawls 226
Paxton 365
Pl\YS d'Oc 1'40, 143
PayeNantals 116
PDOs (Protected
0.slgnatK>ns of Origin) 40
Pi6charmant 113
Pech:eteln vineyard 243
Pecorlno lf"&pe 166, 172
Pees 262
Podornl srapa 209
Ped•claux, Ch Q3
Pedro Xlmtn•z/Glm•nez
arope 204, 205, 339, 340
Po..
.
u1 Boy 371
Pelaverp arape 158
Pelh.t 132
PolH l1land 283
Peloponn..
.
283
Pemberley Farm• 348
Pemberton 348
Po�al
l
al 194
Pondoro project 286
Pono� 200
Ponfolda 350, 3G2. 308, 357
36
6
PonllaJ 390
Panln1ula de SetUbal 211
Ponloy 367
Penneylvania 2QO
Penola Fruit Colon,v 367
Popper Tro
o
348
Porolada 197
�rez, JoH Lu11 20�
""'91, llaUl 192
Nroz, Ricardo 192
Perez ISarqueJ"O 20f!i
Pormot 202
P9mand.Veraeleuea 63
PemGG Rice.rd 36{ �7 390
P'ti•'pt&!..,
,
l4f\
Per,.
.
tAnd,.
.
12e
P..-rtcone V9P9 '-"'f.i
Per,.1•r9i �
Perrin fam ily 134. 138, 320
Porrodo f'amlly 98
Peroon vope 151, 1 52
Pel"u, <Urard 106
Peru 48.330
P°"'llo 111
1
Peaquera 194
Pordrlll 341
Porwolff28T
"-ul6 134
Po•ooc-LAosnan 84, ee.
102-103
Pett9 ofv1n.. 27 30, 30,
31
1
0, 3112
Potoluma363,354.356,367
Potolumo Gap 306
Petit Boeq, c� 90
Petit Chabh1 77, 78
Petit Courbu jr"&J» 113, 114,
115
Petit Mansen• grape 113, 114,
323,389
Petit Fl°"ge ..
..
pe 158
Petit Vordot .._
Argentina 339, Auatrak
349; North AmeMCa 30
0
,
323; Portugal 219: Spain
191, Urucuoy 332
Petite Arvine &rape 156,
,
260
252
Petite Strah grope 287, 304.
310
PetrUty1 253
Petrus 26. ffT. 108, 109
Pettenthal vineyard 239.
2'40
Pettinella 172
Pewsey \loleVineyard 352
Pez, Chde 90
P•zenu 143
Pfaf
f
enbors vineyard 258
pfoJz 224. 241-2.43
Pfeffincen estate 243
Pfne1szl 263
Pfi
i
lbon 246
PGls (Protected
Go
ograp
hlcol lndlcabons)
40
Pheasant Ridge winery 326
Ph81an 8'gur, Ch 90
Phelps, Joseph 305
Phlladelph1a (South Africa)
380
Philtpp1, Bernd 243
Philo 304
Phoenicians 10
Photosynthesis 28
Phylloxera 11, 27, 330 ,
Australia 358, 363,
Croatia 270, France 114
150. 151, 198, ltoly 156,
.
North Amenca 289. 297.
310, 323, 326 Peru 330
Portugal 211, 220.
Slovakia 266, Spain 189
192. Switzerland 251
Turkey 285
Plave 164
P1av• Malanotte 165
P1barnon, Ch de 148
Pie St· Loup 143
Plcapoll 1rape 201
P1cardan grape 138
P1cardy S.
.S
P1ccachlly Valley 356
Pichlor, FX 256
Pichler, Rudi 266
P1chler- Krutzter 2&6
Pichon Baron, Ch 512
Pichon Laland•. Ch 90, 92,
382
PICO 207
Plcoltt 171
Plcpoul d• Pinet 142
P1cpoul 1r1pe 140. 142
Picpo1.1I Noire crape 138
Plcque Cl.Jllou, Ch 102
Plcutonor lr&po 161
1
P11d�roeao 11"1.P• 18�
P1emonte 1�e. 111-111
P1erc•'1 DI eaq 27 2&I
328
Piet"Opan 1ee
PlerN Dorf
f
7!
Pie rro t49
PtHpcr 280-111
P1Hpor
)IC
ltr >pft;Nn
no.
Pletroa.. 212
Pievaltl T2
P1..to 1r- �7 86
Plano 1""2
P11nnlet. o l"&l>lt 181
PlgnolO ir•pe 71')
Pli<eloJoyco 161
1
P•nard, V1nc.nt �3
p.na1 t. Frant;oi• 1J1
Pi'\Ault fAIT"llJ� fir�
F ••udAul"UI '1tl
p1Me1 11 I.LI• J1'4
P1•I•Qr-e1I# .,C:,

flfir'lgv• ">om dti 19r;
Pomm•rd •ripe 297
Prun1n1 vln•• aM vt,our 13,
RC ("'°oltant c�r)
Ptnhao 21·
Ponr.t 190
13, 30 .111
(doftnltlon) IO
P1not Blanc/81.anc-- •r•pe
Poncle 74
Pian 283
RdV 323
Au•tfll 2!!4 !Il
l<�
2e'
Pontoc 90
PWJ2el
l
Rebholz 242
France 1� Gerl'tll"Y 223, Pontat-C1net, Ch 92, g3
l"uoch-�. Ch 143
Rebholz, Holn1J61'1 241
294 228, 227 238. 241,
Popo \11lloy 312
l"uonto Alto 331
1
Plobula1.._ 2e8
� 245. ltoly 111
11
, lei!,
P?f"OnllJNP 3'47
Pupt Sound 284
Ploc1not1 287
tee, 1e1, 169, 110. 11
1
p.,r- 101nbef'I 381
Pu1111 189
Plochblchol vlnoyard 243
LUHMbout'I !t3, North
Port 1110-218 ..
.
,"' 38.31
1
.
Puidoux 253
l'techer Herrenbert 22e
America 211(), 322· Serbia
h1ttory 11, lod&e• 214,
PulaHsuln 108
l'technttz 281
'167 SIOV.nta 288.
1ty1ea 214
Pu1ol1· 1ur.C1ron 100
llocloto (do�nltlon) 166
Swt
t
l*rland �1
Port Phillip 380
PulH FO!lO 2117
Rectoto d•ll• VaJpclleella 18Q
Plnot Grtt/Gr-.110 rape
Portote.,.
.
218. 219
Pull,ny Montrachet 54, 80
Raoioto di Soavo 1118
Ar1e nt1na 339, Auatr"'alla
Portets 100
PUNCH 3112
RKottant (deftnltlon) &2
3�. 3&&. 36&, 361 31
1
2,
Porto Carroo, Dom 280
Pun• 38 6
R�oltant·coop,rateur (RC)
966. 36e, characterrat1c1
Porto Santo 220. 221
Pundorlch 227, 233
(deftnltlon) ao
,.. Franco 120. 123, 124.
Porto·Vec:ch10 149
Pupllhn 1&0
Rkoltant manlpulant (flMJ
125, 121, Germ""y 223.
Portupl IOl-1
121
Alontojo
Purbach 261
(doftnlt1on) 80
224. 226, 227 231, 241.
218-211 ISalrrada and Dlo Purcarl winery 278
R'colt• (deftn1t1on) 62
242, 244. 246. Hu•pry
211-217 cllmato 20, cork
Pury, de 362
Rod Hiii 361
2Cl2. 283, Italy 158, 185,
oaJc 37, 20/j, 208, Douro
Puilpol 1rape 270
Rod Hiii Doustao County 2g4
188, 187. 188, 170, 171,
\/allay 210-214' Lloboa
Puy Arnaud. Clos 108
Red Mlokat 1rapo 274, 275
Luxemboura S3; New
and �nln1ula d• Setubal
Puyaubert, Tom 19g
Red Mountain 21W, 300
Zeeland 3e8, 369, 370,
1111 Madeira 1120 -1121
Pu)'IUeraud. Ch 108
Rod Nowt 324
373, 314, 375, North
phylloxera 27, vineyard
Pyramid \/alloy 371
Rod Wiiiow \llnoyarcl 300
Amorica 290. 2112, :lge,
land prices 47, vineyard•
PyrenMI 369
Rod wino ..
.
ln138,38,3g,
297, 2111, 300, 322,
48, Vinho Verde 209 wine
makln1 12, 33. 34-3&.
AomlJ'lia 272, 273, Serbia
labels 207, wine
Qualltltsweln 40, 225
Hrvln1 temperatur. 44,
287, Slovenia :2t5B, 269
production 48
Quarts de Chaume 118
45, to1tln1 42, 43
Sw1tiorland 251. 252. 253
Portupl Ramos, Jolo 218
Qu1boc 291
Redondo 218
Plnot Meunier 1rape 16, 80,
PortugJHer grape Czech••
Qu•r9tano 327
Redwood \/alloy 304
82, 120, 249
266, Germany 223. 224 ,
Quincy 123
Rofooco vapo 161, 170, 171,
Plnot No1r/Nero crape
238, 241. Hungary :262.
Quinto (doftnltion) 207
288, 271
..
.
1n1 39 Argentina 338,
Slovak.la 266
Quinta da Fonte Souto Zl9
Rllfoik FoPO 271
339, 341. Australia 22. 346, Porusot 60
Quinta da Ga1vosa 213
Ro1ont vapa 224, 250
347. 354, 356, 358, 360,
PoHVJ9 268, 269
Quinta da Lomba 217
R..nory, F J 230
361. 382, 365, 366, Austria
Pol1p 271
Quinta da Muradalla 192
Rosn" 75
261, Brazil 331. Bulgaria
Postup 271
Quinta da Pellada 217
Reguenaos 218
275, charactar1stlc1 16, 28, Potenuc, Ch 88
Quinta das 8'p1ru 216
Re1u1np Rul 2111
38, Chilo 335, 336. 337
Potter Valley 304
Quinta du Malas 217
Reh, Cal"I 273
China 390, Czechla 266,
Potts Frank 356
Quinta de Ba1xo 216
R..cheneta1ner 1rape 249
ONA analysis 14 England
Pou1et. Ch 98
Quinto do Cabrtz 216
Re1chagrafvon Keanlstatt
249, Franca 65. 56, 57, 64
Pou1lly 70
Quinta de Chocapalha 215
227
67, 68, 89, 71, 90, 82, 117,
Pou1lly-Fu1ss8 70-TI
Quinta de Saes :217
Re1ch1grafvon Plettenbera:
120, 122, 123, 124, 125. 141
Pou1lly-Fum' 122 , 1112-123
Quinta de Vara:allu 213
235
150, 152, Germany 223,
Poullly-Locho 69
Quinta do Aral Vineyard 216
Re1gnac, Ch d• 100
224. 225, 226. 227, 230,
Pourlly 1ur-Lo1re 1 16, 122,
Quinta do Centro 219
Relhbuf'I Blaufrlnk11ch 261
234 235,236.231,238
122
Quinta do CoruJlo 217
Reil 227, 23
3
239, 241 242. 243, 244
Pourlly Vinzelles 69
Quinta do Crasto 212
Aalms 82
245, 246, 247, history or
PouJeaux, Ch 96
Quinta do Monte d'01ro 215
Reitorprod 243
w1nemaking 11. Hungary
Poulsard grape 150. 151
Qumta do NovaJ 213. 214
Ramellurl 198
263, ltoly 156. 159, 166, 167, Povardane 267
Qu1ntad0 Vesuvto 211. 212
Ramlzll!lres. Dom des 133
Japan 387, Luxembourg
Poysdorr 254
Quinta dos Carv&lha1s 216
Rengo 336
53, New Zealand 388, 370,
Pri. 168, 169
Quinta dos Roques 217
Renskl Rlzllng grape 269
371, 373, 374, 375, North
Prachtraube grape 266
Quinta dos Malvedos 213, 213 Requinoa 336
America 291, 292, 293,
Prldlkatswetn (denn1t1on)
Qu1ntarelll, Giuseppe 169
Reserva (deftnltion) 191
294, 296 297, 300, 304,
225
Qumteasa 314
Reserve (deftnttton) 80
305, 306, 309, 309, 316,
Praes1d1um 172
Quintus, Ch 110
Retamal, Marcelo 335
317, 319, 320. 321, 322,
Prager 256
Quirion, Yvan 19
Retsina 282
Portupl 219, Romania
Pra1ne Star grape 289
Qvevrt 279, Z78
Roullly 123
272, 273; Serbia 267,
Prllat 232
Reus 200
serving tempet'ature 44.
Prats fa mily 90
Ra1>t1
1
i. vineyard 160
Reybier, Mlchel 90
Slovenia 268, 269. South
Pratten, Dr Peter 348
Rablgato vape 207. 210, 213
Reynaud, Alam 110
Africa 384, Spa.in 200,
Pre1gnac 104
Raboso grape 164, 166
Reyneke 382
203, SMtzerland 261 , 252.
Prekmurje 269
Racha 279
Raynell, John 364
253, Ukraine 276
Prellenklrchen 264
Rack1n1 36. 36
Raynella 354
P1notage grape 379, 381 , 382 P�meaux 64
Rodebeul 227
Reynolds family 219
Pintos 213
Premier Cru (deftntbon) 62,
Redford 352
R•ze grape 250, 252
Pintea VAP9 262
58
Radgona 288, 269
Rhalnfront 238, 239 -240
Pmto Bandeil"a 331
Premieres C6tes de
Rldhn1 242
Rholnpu 224, 23&-237
Pipers Bro
o
k 368
Bordeaux 86, 100, 101
Aadoux 36
Rha1nhessen 47, 224,
Pipers Rwer 366
Presbga da Loire 119
Rafanolh, A 306
1181-1140
Prquepoul gr-ape see P1cpaul
Preston Vineyards 306
Aahoul, Ch 100
Aha1nhessen Five 238
grape
Preu1llac. Ch 88
Aa1mat estate 200
Rhodes 282
Pine 368
Preuses 78
RainfaJI 20
Ah6ne history ofw1nemak1ng
f>taa (NZ) 315
Price, BUI 308
Ratnoldi 156
10, Northern 128-133,
Piuno, Gabriel 332
Pride Mountain 312
R&l<Ocz1 family 264
Southern 134-139, mistral
Plt
ta
rsberg vineyard 235
Pr1eler 261
Ramandolo 170
21
Pizzini family 358
Prieto P1cudo grape 189
Raml1co grape 215
Rh6ne Rangers 321
PiadeBagea 201
Prlauri·Llchlne, Ch 98
Ramos Pinto Rosas. Josit
Rhys \11nayarcls 185, 316, 316
Pia I Uevant 191
Pr1mtt1vo er-ape 17, Australia
212
Rfas Ba1xas 113
Pialmont 116
355, Italy 165, 182, 183, 271
Rancqua 336
Ribbon Ridge 296
Plan de D1eu 137
Primo Estate 366
Rancho Sisquoc 321
R1be1ra Sacra 192
Planeta 185
Pr1morska 170. 268-269
Aandersacker 246
Ribeiro 192
Plant Robert grape 263
Prince Edward County 293
Rangen vineyard 125. 127
Ribera Alta 197
Plantqen.t 347
Pnnce $t1rbay vineyard 272
Aanlna grap• 269
Ribera Ba1a 197
Plavac Malt grape 271
Priorat 17, 188, 191, 192, 202
Ranna Meln1shka Loza grape
Ribera del Ouero 39, 194-196
Plettenberg, Relchsgraf von
SOllS 25,26
275
Rrbera del Guadiana 191
235
Pr1sse 69
Rapal 338
Rlbolla Glalla &rapa 156, 171 ,
Ploussard � 150
Pritchard Hill 312
Rappu 149
288
Plovdlv 274
Probus grape 267
Raps4nl 280
Ricasole, Barone 11e
Plyto vape 282
Procanlco grape 181
Aarl Neagrl 1rape 276
Ricaud, Ch do 100
Pochon, Dom 133
Prohlb1t1on 289. 303
Raspall Ay, Dom 136
Richard Dlnnar Vln•yard 308
Podenaoc 100
Prokupaccrape 287
R•spl 263
A1chaud, Marcel 138
Pod•re (deftnftlon) 166
Promara lf'ape 284
Ruteau 136
Rlchaaume, Dom 147
Podravie 288, 289
Promontory 314
Ratlnho 1rape 215
Rlchebourc vineyard
ptloo361
ProprMka.lre "*eoltant
Ritko 265
owner1h1p 58
PoJepostato 169
(doftnltlon) 52
RattlHnake Hiiis 300
Rlchollou, Ch 1oe
Pokolbln 364, 364
Pro
o
eoeo 753, 1e4, 764
Ratzenber1•r 226
Richter 231, 232
Pol Roger 82
Proaec
co
Superlore 164
Raucoul• 132. 133
Rlddoch, John 357
Polish Hill vlnayarcl 363, 353 Pro
o
H<'299,:jQO
Rauenthal 237
Rld10 \llnoyarcl1 31 &
PollZWIO 180
Protect8d De1J1nabon1 or
Raumland 226
R..beek Ka1teel 381
Polkadrut Hilla 382
Clrlstn soe PDO.
Rluochlln11rapo 260. 251
Riedel 45
PollinO 183
Protaotod Go
ot;
raphlcal
Rauzan -Gu1le1, Ch as
Rledenweln 268
Polparro 361
lndlcattono HO PGl1
Rauzan- Se1ta, Ch 98, 110
Riek, Dr Edcar 3e6
Potz 256
Proto
o
1114
Ravant6s tl.mlly 200
RIHlaner 1rapti 246
PoMbal, Mar<qu1a de 40
Provonoo 141-o'14T
Ravent6a I Blanc 201
Rloalln11rapo, ..1ln1 38, 39,
PomerOI 84, 108. 108-109
Prcwlna 262
Ravine• 324
43; Argentina 341 ,
church 108; llmate 86.
Pru11
1
010Genble 1rape 18.
Ray, Martin 318
Au1tralla 345, 347, 348,
sott• 2&, 87
180
Rsyu, Ch 134. 138, 139
352, 353, 355, 358, 359,
Pommarcl 58, 62
Prum.JJ 232
Raymond Lafond, Ch 104
160, 365. Jee. Au1tr1a
26-4. 264, 26'
RoHh• 2&4, 2e1
chliracterl1tlc• 19, 21, 30:
Roaato (deftnltlon) t&5
Chlle 336, 317, Croatl&
Plooch, Jo11r 230
270, Czechla 298; franc;•
ROochltr 1154
124, 12e, 128, 127, Germany
Ao•• (doftnltlon) �2
223, 224 22&, 228, 227,
PION d'AnjO<J 118
221, 230, 232. 234, 238,
Roo• do Loire 118
231, 231, 2311. 2'40, 241,
RoHmont 323
242. 243, 246, 24e, hl•tory
PloMmount 384. 386
ofwlnemak1n1 11, Hunpry Pl
l
otenthal 228
263, Italy 167, N-
Ao1I, Eupnlo 1ee
ZHland 388, 371, 313, 374. Aoa1er1, Dom de 130
376, North America 290,
ROHH• &rAP9 147, 168
202, 293, :ig&, 297, 2g1,
AoHHM dl Ook:eacqua 1&7
300, 304. 312, 31&, 322,
ROHO(doftnltlon) 166
324, 32&. Portupl 208,
Rollo, Giovanni 184
Serbia 287, stovalcla 2ee.
Ro110 Conero 17:2
Slovenia 288, 2e9,
Ro110 dt Montalclno 17Q
Swttzerland 250, Ukraine
RoHo di Montefalco 181
278 wine production 32
Rono di Montepulclano 180
RIHlln& ltallco vape lff
RoHo Piceno 172, 172
Italian A1Hhn& &rape
Ro1taln1 130
Rleu1Hc, Ch 104
Ro1taln1, A•n' 130
Rlnp 243
Rotonbef'I 272
Rio N11ro 338, 341
Rot•r Han1 2�. 240
Plloja 31
1
, 47, 188. 1g1, 1H-1H Aoter Tramlner rape 28
8
RloJa Ala.-.. 1ge
Roter Veltllner 1rape 254,
Rloja Alta 1ga
261
1
Plloja Soja 11
11
1
Aothenber& vlneyal"d 240
Rloja Oriental 1ga
Aothtchild, Benjamin de,
Fllpalll• 152
Baron 199, 341
FUpa110 della Valpchcella 18Q Rothochlld, Edmond do,
Ripoll, Marc 202
Baron �. 287
Rippon 376
Rothochlld fam ily 93, 104,
Rlquowlhr 126, 127
108
R1scal, Marqu•s de HHS, 196
Rottpn 233
R1serva (deftntt1on) 166
Roudnlce 288
R11hon LeZlon 287
Roup (doftnltlonJ 52
Ritsch vineyard 230
Rou1e du Pays &raPtl 250
Rlvaner 1rape 63, 227
252
Rivera 332
Rou1eard. Clos 119
R1venna 345
Rougier fa mily 148
Rtverland 346
Roupe1ro VoPO 210, 218, 219
Rrversdale estate 348
Rouasanne vaP9 France
R1vesalte1 140, 144
128. 129, 131, 133, 135, 138.
R1vt•re. Ohv1er 199
138. 1'40, 142. 144, 152,
Rluard1, Guerrieri 169
Israel 287, North America
RIZZI vineyard 161
326
Rkats1teh &rape 17, Bulgaria
Rousseau , Armand, Dom 66
274, 275, Crimoo 277,
Roussette de Bu1•Y 152
Georgia 278, Russia 277;
Rousaette de Savoie 152
Ukraine 276
Roussette grape 152
RM (r9coltant-man1pulant)
Rouss1llon 144-14&
(definition) 80
Roy, Clos du 67
Robe 346
Royal Tokaj1 265
Robert Oatley Vlneyal"d 365
Rubin arape 275
Robert . St•phane 128
Auch• d1 Casta1nole d1
Aobert-Oenopnt 70
Monferrato 158
Robertson 379
Ruche grape 158
Robertson , Norrel 189
Ruchottes 66
Robin, Giiies 133
Ruck. Johann 247
Aobola vape 282
Rudeshe1m '236
Roe du Anps 145
Rueda 1H
Roca, AT 200
Aufete grape 189
Roca, Bernardo 20
Ruffino 174
Rocch• dell'Annunzlata 162
Au11en1 58, 62
Aocchetta, lnc1sa d•ll•,
Rully 68
Marchese 174
Rumella 275
Roche, Clos de la 66
Rumenl Muscat va,pe 269
Rocha aux Moines 118
Rumem Piav.c 1rape 269
Rochogres 14
Rumpf. Stllfan 234, 235
Rochemor1n, Ch de 102
Runk vineyard 170
Aochloh 305
Rupert, Anthonlj 381
Rocks 01str1ct of
Rupert, Johann 381
Miiton Freewatar The
Rupert & Rothschild 382
294
Ruppartsbera: 242
Rocky Knob 323
Russia 48, 49, 278�277
Rodda. Adrian 35e
l'las11"" Rl.-r \lllloy 305
R6delsee 247
Rust 260, 261, 261
Rodriguez, Talmo 196, 203
Auster Au1bruch 281
Roederar 304
Rutherrord 312, 314
Roederer. LOUIS 90, 92
Ruthef"llen 358, 360
Roederer Cristal 82
Ruwer 227
Rodern 124
Rymill 357
Rod1tls ,..
..,.
281, 283
Ryzllnk A.ynaky ,,.
..,.
266
Aoaro 158
A.yzllnk \llaioky vapa 268
Ro1ue Valley 294
Rollan d1 By, Ch 88
Saade brothers 286
Rolland, Deny 196
Suhs . Christin• 258
Rolland, Michel 110, 196, 276.
Sule Unstrut 224-225
341
Saar 228-221
Rollo grapa 134, 142, 146. 147, SurbUf'I 228
186
Saarburpr Rausch vineyard
Romane..
.
Contl, Dom de la
228, 229
21
1
, 43,114,65,65
Sabar 263
RomanM-St-Vlvant 64
Sabath1, Hannes 255
Romania 48. 48, 272..273
Sablot 137
Romans, ancient 10, 10
Sachsen 224 -25
Rom•1rapo 203
Sacramento Delta 318
ROmerhof estate 261
Sadie. Eben 381
Romorantln grape 116
Saeculum Cellars 328
Roncqllette 160
Sall
l"e
dl 176
Ronchl di Clalla 170
Sq;rantlno crape 181, 355
Ronda 203
Salllon 253
Aondlnella lf'ape '1459
St-Amour 74
Rondo 1rape 22, 2411
St Andrea 263
Aoquette, Joa• 218
St Antony 240
Roi, Ellan de 114
St-Aubin 66
Rosa, Rene de 309
St- Sn• n
Rosacker 127
St Catharlnff 293
Ro1ado Cdaftnltlon) 1�1. 207
St-Ch1n1an 140
INDIX 'Ml7
St Chtnlan lert°" 1'40
St·Chlnlard•oquebrun 140
St-ChrtatOI 143
St Chr1ttoly-l'Mdoc 18
St Co..
..
.
. Chdo '�
St Cyr-en- 8our1 119
St- o.n11. Clot ee
'lt-Dr•wy 143
::Jt- Em111,m a., 109, 107.
110..
.
111. climate
18.
terr- ir 2e. 1e 11'
StE1t•phoII.IO ltl
St Flacro 11&
St-<iayan 1' 8
St Qeor.. vape ,..
A1ior1lt1ko 1rapo
St·Goorpo 108
St·Geor..1 d'Orque1 143
St·Germ&ln - d 'E1teull 88
St-Gotthord Mu11f 260, 280
St Holona 302, 311, 312. 111
St JacquH, c101 e•. ee
St·J&cque1, Dom 1�
St· Jean, Cloa &9
St·Jean de Mu1ol1 128
St · Joooph 121, 130, 131
St Julio• 88,113, t4-H
St Lambert 113
St· Landehn, Clo• 127
St Laurent 94
St Loub .. 100
St·Mont 116
St Nlcolu·d• Bourgu"I ng
St Nlkolaua 237
St Paul vineyard :242
St P•ray 128
St Pierro, Ch 94
St-Pierre ·de· Mon1 100
St Pou�aln 123
St Quentin de-Baron 100
St Romain 81
St Satur 122
St·Saturnin 143
St·S.Urln-de· Cadourne 88,
90
St Thomu, Ch 286
St Urbain, Clos 127
St Urbons - Hor 230, 231
St-Verand 69
St·Yzans "de· M6doc 88
Ste·Cro1x du· Mont 100
Ste-Foy C6tes de Bordeaux
100
Ste· Hune. CIO$ 127
Ste Mtchelle. Ch 29
9
Ste MtcheUe Wine Estates
300
Ste-Victolre 147
Sa1ntsbury 309
Sa1ntsbury, Prof Geor1e 132
Salchetto 180
Sallee Salent1no 183
Sahna 185
Sahnu Valley 21. 316
Salomon fa mily 35
5
Salomon · Undhof 258
Salon 82
Saito 24. 339
Saito 332
Satton 331
SaJvqnm 253
Salwoy 244
Samll
l
pato 330
Samant, RajHY 385
s&mbureftl 273
SamoFOlo 279
5'mhn188 grape 250
s•mos 282
Sampedro. David 199
Samso FoPO 200
Samtskh•Javakhat1 see
Meskhet1
Samuel's Gorge 35
5
San Antonio Valley 336
San Bernabe 317
San Carlos 338, 341
San Cr1st6bal, Conde de 195
SanDl•IO289
San Fernando 336
San Gro1or10 189
San Guido estate 174
San Joaquin Valley see
Central Valtey (California)
San.Jou332
San Juan 339
San Juan Baubsta 316
San Leonardo 166
San Lorenzo He Casa
Madero
San Lw1 Ob1spa 319, 321
SanLul1Poto
o
l327
San Mortin 197
San Michele 1118
SanPablo338,341
San Pedro de Yecochuya 339
San Pedro wtnvy 337
San Flaful 341
SanSovoro183
San Vicente 198
San Vito di LUZZI 183
Sancerre 47, 116, 121-122

398
INDEX
Sand Rec- 328
Sandalford 349
Sand.de• family 294
Sanford, Richard 32
2
SanfOl'd&-tVl,,_rd
321,32
2
Sa""8Como 309
Sanato- dl Romqna 166
San�ovue srape Are-ntlna
339, Au1traha 356. 360,
Brull 331, chwacterLsttca
18 Coroica 149; lndoa 385,
Italy 164, 172. 174, 176, 1711,
179, 160, 181, 183. North
Ameroca 30
0
,318
Sankt Loursnt arape 264.
281,286
SanlUcar de Barramlda 203,
204
5ant'Anpk3 1n Colle 17�
Sant'An&•k> Scale 1�
Sant'Ant1mo 179
Sant Sadurnl d'Anota 20
0
Santa Barbara 47, 319. 321
Santa B&l"bara County 322
Santa Carolina 336
Santa Cruz de Artazu 197
Santa Cruz Mountams 316
Santa Due, Dom 136
Santa. Luc1a Hilf'llands 316
Santa Marla (A1"1ent1na> 339
Santa Maroa (Speln) 204
Santa Mana Valley 316 320,
321
Santa Qu1nteMa 1g1
Santa. Rita 336
Sta. Rita Hills 319 321, 322
Santa Sarah Pr1Y&t 276
Santa Ynez Valley 321, 32
2
Santad1 186
Santenay 69
Sanb, Clemente 179
Sant11.10 Quetrok> 330
Santo Stefano vineyard 161
Santo Tomois 327
Santor1m 280, 282
Slo M11uel 218
Saperav1 crape Australia
355, Geo..
.,
. 39, 276, 279,
Moldova 276, Romania
272-. Russia 277
Sapporo 387
Saranaot OupN, Ch 95
i;
;
arbi VoP9 272
Sarchn1a 1M
Sard6n de Ouero 195
5'rfeh•r grape 262
Si.rp Muakot&ly 1rape 17,
264, 266
5'roapatak 264
Sart•ne 149
Susella 156
Su11ca1a 174, 341
Sat11ny 263
Sattlarhof 266
Sattu1. V 313
Sauer, Rainer 248
Sauer, Horst 246
Saumqen 24:
Saumur 111
Saumur Srut 118
Saumur· Champ11ny 118
Saumur Puy-Notre Dame 119
Sauska 262
iauul1nac 113
.Jtern•• 84, ee. 87,
104-10I ....n. 38, 3�
;auv1anon Blanc &rai>e
Art•nt1na 338, 341,
Au1tr1ha 346, 348. 348,
366, 361
1
, 3112,31
1
5, 368,
Austria 265, Brull 331,
Bul1arl1 27fl,
characterl1tlc• 11. Chll•
334, 336, 331
1
, 337. c-tla
270, CMOh1a 211
11
, DNA
1n1lya11 14, France 77, 84,
96, 102, 113, 114, 1111, 117,
120, 122, 123, Germany
239 243, Hungary 2112,
India 386. Israel 217, ttely
1117. 170, 171, 172, Japan
387. Lebanon 218,
Moldova 2711, New ZMlend
31
17
388, 370, 371. 372,
'J73, 374, North America
21
11
.30
0
. l04.305,308,
308. 310 314 318, 322.
Portupl 208, 2111,
Romania 272. 273, fltuaa11
2"7. Slovenia 288, �;
South ""'le• 3711, 380. 311
312.aundim..
.
23, Spain
��1. 18e 199, Switzerland
213. T ri1rkey 216 Ukraine
21e, Vrucuay 132 wona
produot-on 'l2
�n Gr11 F&Pe 96,
136
liauVill
l'O"
Vert ,,._ 10,
l:M
Sauv1CnOnu1e 1rape 170,
Serlidlo eor,.
.
, Jorp 217
21
18
, 334. 341
Serra. JunlJMro 2ag
Savap 3BO
Serra do SudHte 331
Savqnon 1rape lllO, 161, 262, Serra Gauch• 331
346
S.rracavallo 183
Savatlano arape 281, 282
Serralun.. d'A.lba 11S2
Savenn1"'9s 118
Serrl& 228
Savl_,iy 83
S.rvqntn Cr'l.i>e 253
Savoie 150, 757, 111-112
SERVE 272
Sc:
:
acc1ad1avoll 181
S.rvlnt wine 44-41
1
Scarce Earth project 356
Setta 3116
Scha.ter, Willi 232
Setlibel 216
Sctllfv- Fr6hhch estate 234 Seull, Ch du 100
235
Seven Hiiia vineyard 300
Schaffhausen 251
Savllen 286
Scharlachber1 240
Sevlll• (Au1tral11.) 393
Scharzhof 228
Seville Estate 3112
Scharzhotbera; vineyard 228, �vres et Maine 118
221
1
Say1HI 162
Schatzel 240
Seyssu11 129
Scheid 317
Seyval Blanc 1rape 249, 289
Schaureb.a1rape 224. 239.
291, 324
243, 253, 260
Sf\Jrzat 155, 156
Sch1ava lf'aPl
l
167, 245
Shaanxl 390
Schiefer, Uwe 260, 281
Shadowf'ax 3llO
Schlicher 255
Shafer 315
Sch1oppett1no 1rape 170
Shandon1 368, 369
Schloss Gobelsbura 268
Shanxi 390
Schlo.. Johannlsbers 237
Shavkaplto 1rape 278
Schlo11 LleHf" 231. 232 , 232
Sb&w+Srnltlt381
1.
386
Schtoa1 Neuwet•r 2�6
Shaw Vineyard 308
Schlau Proschwitz 225
ShW1andoah Valley
Schlon Saarstem 228
(California) 316
Schloss Salem 245
Shenandoah Valley (Virginia)
Schloss Sch6nbom 237
323
Schloss Vaux 225
Sherry 39, 203-201 , styl..
Schloss Voltrada 237
203
Schlau Wackerbarth 225
Shesh 1 Bardhl grape 287
Schlotsbera 127
ShHh I Z1 gape 267
Schtou1ut Ole\ 235
Shlluh winery 285
Schlumberaer 127
Sh10l"IJI 387
Schmelz, Johann 256
Shiraz ..
..,.
_Syrahsrape
Schmit
t
's Kinder e.tate 246 Shlroka Melnl1hka Loza
Schna1tmann, Rainer 2'46
lt'&pe 275
Schnelder, Jakob. estate 234 Shlrvan1hahy vape 277
Schneider fa mily 244
Shoathaven Cout 366
Schoenenbourc vineyard
Shobbro
o
k 352
124, 126
Shomron Hills 287
Schofl
l
t 125
Shuswtip 292
SchOnberpr 261
Siam Winery 386
SchOnborn, von , family 237
Siaurec. Ch 106
Sch6nleber, Werner 234
Siborkovygrape 277
SchrOck, H..dl 281
Stchel fa mily 98
Schubert, von, fa mily 227
Slc1ha 164. 184
Schumacher, P.u1 226
Sicily 23, 184-111
11
Schwtirz. Hans-Gunter 241
Siderttls 1rape 283
Schwarz, Martin 226
Sodawaod 356
Schw&l"z Wine Co 350
Sid6noade Souae 2111
Schwarzes Kreuz 243
S1ebeldm.-n 241
Schwe1- 241 , 242
Slef'ershetm 238, 239
Scoac
carel
lu crape 1411
Siege..-. &rape 292, 294
Sciacchetr* 157
Sierra de Gredoa 188, 189,
Scotchman• Hill 380
189
Scream1n1 Eaal• 314
Sierra de la Demand& 1�8
Screw caps 37, 37, 237, 346
Sierra de Salamanca 189
S.
.
ra Nova arape 215
Sierra Footh11lt 311
S..ttl• 295, 298
S1eN"u de M'laca 203
Seba
at
opol H1H1 306
Sigalal 282
S.be
e
t1'n 2&2
Silk Road Group 2711
Sec (deftmtlon) 80
Sllvaner/Sylvaner arapw
Secca (dellnltlon) 155
Franca 124', 1215, Germany
Seca (deftnltlon) 11
11
, 207
223, 224, 236, 231
1
, 246,
Sedella 203
Italy 1117, Swlt1erlend 252
SedllHU 18e
Sliver Hel&hto 390
Sechment 38
Sllverlaka Winery 385
Sedula 1rape 2117
Simferos>c>' '177
Seqer Htata 246
Simllkamaen Valley 2112
Saeweln 245
Simone, Ch 149
S.&uln. Or G•r•rd 26. 87
S1mon1ber1··Stellenboech
Se1uln Moreau 36
362
Maur, Marqul1 de iO
Sine Qua Non 32
2.
328
5'1ure
e
1311
Sln1key, Robert 316
Sekt 225, 268
Slon 262
Sekthau1 R&umland 239
S1pon crape 21111
Sekthauo Soltar 225
S1ran, Ch 98
S.lbach, Johannea 324
Slrla1rape 210
Selb.ach Ootar 232
S111eck, Peter 1�6
5'1ectlon de Graln1 NoblH
Sovl Plnot 1rape 2&9
125
Sluano 166
Sella I. Mosca 1811
Stavonla Md the Danube 270
SeloHe, AnNlme 81
SlovKko 21
16
S•lvaplana e1tat• 11e
Stovakla 2M
S.mldano arape 1ae
Slovenia 170, 171, llU-2"
Semlllon/Semlllon 1rape-
Sloveneka t1tra 2118
"9tn1 39. Ara.nt1na 331, SLV vineyard 31e
Auotralla 345, 3411, 11
10,
Smart, Dr Richard 3117
361, 31
14
,31
1
6,
Stnederevka 1rape 2117, 275
chal"Gterl1tk:1 17 France
Smith Haut Lafttte, Ch 102
14,116,100,102,104,11 '
Smit� WoodhouH 214
149. Lebanon 218, North
Snaka River Vallay 294
America 30
0
.
Snt�• Mountaln 300
South Mrtca 380
lnoqual- 29
9
Saneca Lake 324. 328
IMYO196,11)4,168
Seppelt 3611
-YO Cl..
.
lco 111
1
Sep
pe
lt fa mily 361
loAve Colli Sc.,tlerl 111
1
Sa-lt•flald 361
-Yeluperlar
e
168
S.l"bll 2e"
Soc-Malt.t,Ch11
1
S.rcial 1rape 220, 221
SO
OAP
ilM
&Milhan, Ch 90
..,.
.._
21e. 2'9
hr•na 1rape 287
&Gil lf-18 fertility 26. 211,
Ser-nann 22&
21
1
,,.,.
..il
hnl 26, 26
SoldeSol337
�taJ..
..
ka StovenlJ• 21111
Solala 1711
St&ndln1 Stone 324
Solarll vape 22, 2'111, 2llO
Stapleton·Sprln1•r 2ee
Solcchlata 186
Stavropol 277
Soldera, Gtanfranco 179
StMI• 304
Soll1, F•llx 111
1
, 196
Steenvape 17, 3711
Solitude, Dom d• I• 102
Staenbera 3BO
Solut-'. rock of 70, 71
�t.tln•ttl 273
Solut-' Poullly 70
Stalermark 2M, 266
Somerset Weat 382
Stelprw.Jd 247
Somlo 2112, 2113
Stein, Robert 366
Soml61 Aptiuq1 Pince 263
St.In, Weln,sut am 248
Soml61 Vindor 263
Stein vineyard 248, 247
Sommer, Leo 281
SU11nack1r 243
Somml•re• 143
Stelnberc vln1yard 10, 237
Somontano 190
Steinbuck1I 243
Sonnenbera (Ahr) 2211
Staln1arten 362
Sonn1nb1r1 (Al1ace) 242
Stelnklatz 126
Sono1ta 326
Stel , Wlllitm Adrlun van d1r
Sonoma 302, 309, Northern
362
Sonoma 301-307,
Stella Bella 349
Southern Sonoma
Stellenbosch Area, The 47,
308-309
382-383
Sonoma Coast 47. 306, 307
St•phan, Jean Mlchel 130
Sonoma Cutrer 308
Stattan 246
Sonoma Mountain 308
Stma �70
Sonoma Valley 308
i;
;
torbey family 273
Sapron 282 , 263
Stlxneuti.dl 264
Sorbare 164
Stodden, Jeon 226
Sort San Lorenzo 161
Stone C.atle winery 267
Sor1 T1ld1n 16'1
StonHtreet 306
Sorrsl, Marc 133
Stonier 361
SoM"enberc 368
Stony Holl (USA) 312
Sott1mano vineyard 161
Stony Hill vineyard
Sours. Ch de 100
(Australia) 364
Sous Fr9tllle 63
Stonyrldp 368
Souslo FIPO 209, 210, 212
Stoppering wine 37, corks
Sou16n grape 192
37, 37. Diam (aglomerate)
Sou1san1 96
eloaura 37, 37, screw
SouthAfrica378-384Cape
capo 37, 37. 237, 346,
South Cout 384 C&pe
synthetic cork& 37, 37
Town 380 Irrigation 20,
Vinolok alut stoppers 37.
Steillenboach Area, Th•
37
312-3&3, Swartland 311 ;
Storing wine 39, 39, 119
terrcMr 31, vineyard land
Straw wtne Cvin de pallle) 133.
prices 47, vtneyards 48,
151, 288
wtne production 49
Strathbogoe Ranps 360,
South America 328-341
3113
387, Ar1enttna 338-341
Stromberg vineyard 234
Brazil 331, Chlle 338-337 Studach 251
Uru1uay 332
Styrta 25'4, 255, 269
South AustraJla 27, 350-317 Suavla 188
South Eutern Australia 346 Subottca 267
South Fork 324
Sudbursenland 261
South l1land1 293
Sudoststel•rmark 256
South of th• Bay 318-317
Sudpfalz Connexion 241
Southern Fteuneu 364
Sudltelermark 256
Southern Oreson 294 , 296
Sudu1raut Ch 104
Southern SOnoma 308-301 Suharaka Verarl 267
Southern Valleys (New
Sula 386, 385
Zealand) 373
Sulphites 33. 35
Southwest Statea (USA) 328 Sultaniye (Sultana) &rape
Souzlo 379
265
Spain 117-201 Andaluc'•
SiJlzfold 247
203-206 C&tatunya
Summertand 292
200-20! chmate 20, 26,
Sumoll 1rape 191
1QO, Navarra 111
Sun protKtlon 23
Northwaat Spoon 182
Sunbeakat vineyard 313
phyllOJ1;era 27, PNol"&t
Sunbury 360
202, Alu Belxu 183
Sunhatit 111
Ribera del Ouero 1M-1H SiJntory 94, 237, 366, 387
RioJa 111
11-l
ff Taro and
Super Tuscans 40, 1761 178
Rueda 111 vineyard land
Suptlrleur (deftnltlon) 52
prlcH 47. vineyards 48,
Supartore (deftnltlon) 156
wine productk>n 4G, wine
Sutherland ·Ka ro
o
378
label• 191, win• trade 11
Sutter Home 313
Spanier, Oliver 2311
Suvereto 174
Sparklln& wine ..eln1 38
Svatovavl't neck• 1rape 296
makln1 12, 32. 33, openln1
Swan Vallity 347
4'5, Hrvln1 temperature
Swartland 376, 31
1
44. itortna 311
SwlH Win. F>romotlon 260
Spltbursunder crap• 223,
Swltz•riand 210-213,
224, 226. 229 , 227, 230.
phytloxera 27. Val&11, Vaud,
234, 236, 2311, 237, 236,
and Geneva 212-213
2311, 241, 242, 243, 244,
Sytvaner &rape SH Sllvaner
246, 241
1
, 247
..-
Spltleaa (deftnltlonl 226
Germany 223, 224, 238, 239,
Spay 225
248, Switzerland 262
Spice Route e1tate 381
Sym1nston f'am1ly 219
Spl...tbers 2113
Synthetic corkl 37, 37
Sp1e1bara 243
Syrah/Shlraz 1repe ... 1n1
SpiHI 243
39, 43: Ar1ontlna 3311,
Splnlfox 31
10
340, 341, Au1tratla 31
1
,
Spitz 2611
346, 341
1
, 347, 3411, 360,
Spltarbar1 25'4
361, 3152, 363, 364, 356,
Sporen 127
3611, 387, 366, 369, 31
10
,
Spottowoode 313
3112, 3113, 31
1
4, 3S6, Brazil
Spourtlko arape 284
331, Bulgaria 276,
Sp<'Oltzer brothere 237
characterlst1c& 1a Chll•
Sprln& Mountain Dlotrlct 312
336. 331
1
, Cyprus 284,
Spumante (daftnltlon) 165
DNA analylil 14, Frano•
SQulnzano 113
114. 128, 129, 131, 132, 134,
Steatttoha Halkelt.r
136. 131, 140, 141, 142, 143,
(WOrzburl) 241
1
,247
144. 145, 1411. 147, Germany
Stadt Krome winery 258
:n4, 243, Gre
ec
e 2IO.
Stqueno, P8ioto Franceac:o
lsrul 217, Italy 166, ltl,
113
'72.180:Japen317-
Stqnart, H
Z� 398, Nor1h
St..1 Leap 312, 11
11
America 21
13
, 294,28
8
Staa'• Leap Wine ·•Har
30
0
, 306,309.308.308.
316,316. : :ie
319, 321. 322, 3211.
PortupJ 207, 208, 216,
218, 219. Romeno• 272.
273, Nrvln• temperature
44. South Africa 3711, 381,
382, 384, Sptin 111
1
,202,
Switzerland 252
Syria 28
8
Srarv11 215&
Szuz1, Endre 2113
Szeatlon1 266
Szek1Urd 262
Szante1I , JOz..r 263
Szep1y Istvan 265
Szop1y U.:ko M'" 264
Szt Tamh 286
Sz1remley 283
SzOrkab.al'At VoP9 2&2, 263
T·Gallant 3111
T·Olno1 282
Tabal1 336
Tablu Creek 321
Tacama 330
Tach1s, Giacomo 174 176, 186
Tacna 330
Tahbllk 3l
lO
Tai Blanco grape 164, 170
T&llU 390
Tallle P1ed1 61
Taln l'Hermotap 132
Talttln&•r 82, 249
Taiwan 385
Taj ikistan 46
Takler 262
Talbot, Ch ll4 95
Talha wine see V1nho de Talha
Talley 321
T'11ya 265
Taltarn1 369. 36
6
Tlmlloul Romlneucf.
grape272
Tamar Rldp 36
6
Tamar Valley 36
6
Tamelllnl 188
TomJaml<a grape 267
Tannat arepe 113, 114, 330.
332.339
Tannins 12, 36. 38. 44
Tanunda 360
Tapada do Chaves 219
Tapanappa 346, 356
Taransaud 36
TardJeu , Michel 135
Ta rd1eu Laurent 133
TOl'lja 330
Tlrnave 273
Tarragon• 200
Tamnaton Vineyards 360
Tart, Cloa de 66
Tartaric acid 23
Tuca d'Alm•Mta 184
Tasmania Ml
Tutln& wine 42-43
Ta.
.
rul 182, 163
Tautavel 144
Tavannea, Clos de 69
Tavel 136, 137
Taylor's (Port-I) 213, 214
Taylors (Australia) 363
TBA IM
Trockent>Mrenausleee
TCA (tr1chloroanlaole) 37, 38
42
Tcholtatcheff And-' 306, 313
Te Mata 369
Te Muna Terraces 370
Te1. m...rhofwtnery 268
Teja 208
Telavt 278, 278
Tell1h 276
Te mecula Valley 326
Tement 256
Temjan1ka &rape 287
Temperature. climate 11-11
28, t• rm•ntatlon 34,
ha�tln1 31, 1011 25,
Mf'Vln1 wine 4'-4, 1torm1
Win& 39
Templer. Dom 148
Tempranfflo 1rai>e Araentlna
3311, Australia 345, 349,
366, 368, characterl1t1C1
1• North America 2114,
JOO, 328. Spain 1811, 1111.
192, 1114, 196, 1116. 197, 198,
20
0
Ten Mlnutea by T�r 381
Tenertfo 1111
Tenlment1 L.u111 d'At..aa.ndro
172
Tenuta (deftnltlon) 155
Taren lr&P• 28
8
, 271
T9"zla 2115
Terolde.. 11'&P9 165, lefl
TerofdeCO Plotahano 168
T..
.,.
.
Alta 20
0
T.rrano srape 1T1
T.,.
.-at1
tHdoP11> '207
ror
r
onw crape 221
T.,.,.aa Madok"enaH 221
Terranenmo&el 227 233
Terruu. du L.arzac 143
TeN"at1co-d !lbbOna 17!5
TerN &TerN 346
Te rre dot Principe 182
T_.,.
.
del Voltumo 112
Ter ,.
.
d1 ChtetJ 112
TerrediCoe
e
nza 183
Terre Nore 115
Ter
ren
u1 Vln"hadeS.rra
Vineyard 219
Tef'Nt:Notr -1$
Ter
rot
r 24.28
Ter
ro
lr al Limit 202
Tortre, Cl
l
du 96
Torte 0.UP!>', Ch 110
T- Roteboallf 108,110
111
Teschka. Mlchul 238
Teason1 &8
Tltromythao 283
Tevfel1keH1r vmeyarct 246
Texu 328
Texu Hill Country 328
Thal Wine Assoc:1at
t
on 386
Thallend 385
Thalabert, Dom de 133
Thalulltl1 282
Thenn 127
ThaLane 366
Thelema estate 382. 384
Tharmenreston 264
ThJenpont. Jacques 108
Thlenpant fam ily 106
Thleuley, Ch 100
Thompson Val
le
y292
Thornoch 230
Thornhill family 304
Thrace-Marmara 286
Thre
e
l.akea 261
Thummerer 263
Thunevm, JMn-LUC 110
ThUf'PU 250, 251
r
1
anshu1 390
Tiberio 172
Tlbouran grape 146, 147
Ticono 250, 251
Tidal Bey 291
Ttef'enbrunner 167
Tierra de Le6n 189
Tierra Estella 197
rllr,n , Ede 262
Tignenallo 176
Tok1 3n
Tokvat 267
Tlllets llO
Tin Shed 362
Tinlljas 189
TlnaktOl"OIOS 283
Tlnella 168
Tlnhns Winery 356
T1non, Samuel 266
Tinos 282
Tint& Baroc
c
a/Barroca
.,._ 210, 212. 379
Tlnta Clo &rape 212
Ttntade Toro arape 196
Tlntadel Pali arape 194, 195
Tint& M1Udasrape 198
Tonta Nearaarape 220, 221
Tlnta Ronz &rape 16, 207,
210, 212, 217
Tlntara 354
TintlMa de Rotaarapa 203
Tonto (deftnltlon) 191, 207
Tinto del Pa11 1rape 16
Tinto Flno arape 16, 194, 195
TiNCul La Gravt•res, Ch 113
Toaa 2117
Tix, Dom du 134
Ta Kalon vineyard 310. 314
Tocal Frlulano trap• 341
Tokaj 2112, 11
1
4-281, 2116,
...ln1 36, 31
1
, otyles of
214
Tokaj-He�al)a 264
Tokaj Macok 211
11
Tokajt 11, 40, 40, 294
Tot<ara 384
Tolc•va 264
Taina 2112
Tolpuddl• vineyard 3H
Topaqua 3l
lO
Torbeto .,.
..
..
189
TOf'l'ano 181
Torino 107
Tornao 28S
Toro 1"
TOl'O Alb.alt :206
TON"e& 108
Tor
re
s. MllU•I 200, 337
Torrufam�y 20
0
.201
Tor
re
e
VOdrH:1
1
6
T.,.
._
106
T0<ronU1crape 1w.! 33'2
•311
rorrontM l'llOj&nO ,.._
338.J.40
TOl'JI Ma.tthew9 &
Tosu.na lM, •Tl
rourdeMarbuntC'h 110
Tnur rim Mif"&IT'lha
a
11rnlfVi

Tour-dM�.C'.h 1f.j
U'"' !Jlanc INpe 17.116, I'l
l!.
Veltllne!' -1117
tourduHautMoutm.ChSJie
148
Yeltl
ln
tMZ-l"OlM21
11
1
Tour H1ut-C.�� Ch 88
Uhlon 231
Vendlmla (dol
l
nltlon) 101
Toura1nw 120
Ultlan 304
Vondemmlo (c19ftnltl0n) 166
Tour1tn• Noble Jou' 120
Ukr- 41, 271
1
Vendemm11 ttrdtva
Tourt>ot ar- 144. -
Ullthomo 386
(doftnltlonl 1tl
ll
Tour9hl, Domdes ge
e
UltdoLtobre1rape 16
Voneto 1tll
Tour'I• Franc..-ape 207,
Utlop 3e
Vontoux 134
2'10. 212. 21g
Ulyuoo 314
Vorband Doutoenor
T"ourtp Ntick>nll vape
umont l'loncnt 112
Prldlkatowoln'1)tor lf
f
Ar11nt1no 339: Port""'I
Umortnum 281
VOP
'92 207, 208, 210. 212. 216, Umbrio 1&4, 111
Verblcaro 183
2'17. 218 210, Soutn llrrle&
Umpqua Volley 294
VordOjo lr&P9 11MI, lit!, 1811
37G
Undurrop 337
Vordolho 207
Tournan 128
Unphouor Ylnoyard 243
Vordelho 1rapo 2111, 220, 221,
Touro 117, 120
Unlotoin 243
3&43158
Toutou ndjl, SMt>hone 110
UnleO 1G4
V.rdlcchlO 165
Trobon Trarbueh 233
Untorhurdt 243
Vordlcchto dol CUtolll di JOii
Trabucoht 189
Unterlo6ben 2ae
172
Trei- 234
Upland vineyard 21J8
Verdk:chlo di Matellca 172
Trot-I 264, 2e8
Upper Gallloo 287
Vord1ccn10 ar•pe 184. 11111,
Treioor !Jaatoi 236
Uppar Hudoon 326
172
Trojaduro F- 209
Upper Hunter 3M
V1rdl1nan, Ch 91
Tramm (Term1no> 187
Urqya 2e5
V1rdl10 lf'&pe 184
Tramlnec arapo 270
Urlo 28&
Vorduno 168, 1112
Tramtner Aromatlco 1rape
Uruauoy 330, 332
Verduzzo 1rape 164. 170, 171
171
Urzt1 232
Vor1onoo1d L6w 382
Tram l ner &repe 8ulp.rla
USA SH North America
Verment1no d1 Gallura 188
27'5, Czechla 2ee. France
Utilll ,Roquona 1llO
Vermentlno di Sard..na 18e
160, Italy 167, Slovenia
Uva Aara VAP4t 158
Vermentlno srape Australia
2e8, Switzerland 261
Uzbekletan 48
346, 364. Franco 134, 140,
Tramlnl 1rape 263
VacearWao grape 138
142, 144. ltoly 155, 15'1, 167,
TN.naytvanlan Plateau 273
158, 172, 1711, 188, North
Traplche 33V
Vacheron, Dom 123
America 323
Trapl , JohannOI 264
Vacqueyru 136
Verment1nu aras>e 1•G
TrU·os Montes 208
Val d'Oreia 179
Vernaccla di Orlatano 188
Travqlln1 156
Val di Cornia 174
Vernaccla di San Glmignano
Treasury Wine Eatates 3�
Vol do Sain•• 193
176
348. 350, 353, 367, 382
VoJ11s 250, 251. 2112 263
Vernatsch arape 167
Trebblano d'Abruzzo 172, 181 Volandraud, Ch 110
Vern-.y, Georps 131
Trobblano di Romagna 165
Valbuena 194
Verona 181-181
Tr1
1
bbtanodtSo.vearaPe
Voldejol6n 1 88, 190
Verro1lles 58
169
Valdoorras 192
Vertheull 91
Trebb1ano (Toscano) arape
Voldopoftu 191
Vertou 116
17, ltoly 18, 172, 176, 180,
Valdopusa, Dom de 191
Verzen� 82
181 183; uruau� 332
Valdlptata 180
Verzy 82
Trebblano Spoletino srape
Vold1zarbe 197
Veepaiola vas>e 164
181
Valdub6n 196
Vesper V1neyard1 326
Trefethen Vineyards 312
Vale do Slo Francisco 331
Vespohna grape 166
Tre1so 160
Vale dos Vlnhedos 331
Vest1nl Campagnano 1rape
Trotxadurol!'AP<l 192, 193,
Valen� 116
182
209
Valence 128
Vesrtera:omb1 262
T,.
.
loar.Dom145
Valencia 190
v"roz 262
T,.
.
ntlno 156. 188-187
Valentin!, Eduardo 172
Veyder· Malbor& Peter 256
Trento 166
Valerto. Em1ho 197
Veyry, en 106
Tropatgrope 20
0
Volette, Thier
ry
106
Vi da Flnca 201
TroppcnonYinoyord 232
Yaloyrac 88
VideV11a 191
TnWallon , Dom de 147
Volgella 158
Vtader. Della 312
Trevehn 341
Vll
l
t, F'8ter283
Victoria 1Q, 27, 31
1
-383
Trtb1drag grope 271
Voll dol Rtucorb 200
Victorian Alps Wine
Trtehloroanlsole se
e
TCA
Volladolld 195
Company 368
Tnebaumer, Ernst 281
Vollano 158
Vida 262
Tnmbach 1211, 127
Valle d'Aosta 158
Vidal Fleury 130
Trlncade1ra grape 208, 218,
Volle dOI Lqtn 166
Vldol grapo 289, 291 293,
219
Valle Grande 330
326, 390
Trlnchero 313
Volle lsarco (E'ISACl<tal) 167
Vtdlano ,..,
,.
282
Trit
tenho
tm230
Valle Vonoota (Vlnocnpul
Vid1aue1ra 218
Trocken (dol
l
mt1on) 225
167
V1e d1 Romana 171
Trockonbe
e
ronausteeo (TBA) Vallff de Vin 385
Vle1lle Ferm• 134
(deftnlbon) 225
VollH Noble 124
Vlellles vignes (deftnltlon) 13,
TrotsLacsse
e
Thre
e
Lakes
Vollet 116
52
Trotllngor grapo 245
Valmo1ss1ne, Dom de 147
Vienna 268
Tronquoy uolande. en 90
Valmur 78
V
i
er Jahresze1ten 243
Trotanoy, Ch 108
Valpantena 169
Vietnam 386
Trouoseau grape 150, 339
Valpledra 198
Viet
t
i 169, 162
Trousseau Now grape 318
Volpollcella 164. 169
VI OUK Chltoau Corton (VCC)
Truchard 309
Volpollcolla Closoleo 169
106, 108
Trul!les 162, 162
Vapollcella Superlo,.
.
169
Vieux Cuuac 98
Trump, Doneld 323
Valrlas 134
Vieux Robin, Ch 88
Trunkchseases 'ZT,21
Voltolllna 166
Vllfla/vlgneto (deftn1tlon)
Tl80US
SI
grape 282
Valtelhna Super1ore 166
156
THlopo
o
283
Van Duzer Corridor 296
Vigna San G1u1eppe vineyard
T11akka
a
284
Van Volxem 227, 228
182
Tsimtyansky Cllemy .,..,.
.
Vancouver lll
l
and 292
Vl&nalolo (deftn1t1on) 165
'I17
Vaquer 145
Vlsn• • Farlnet vineyard 253
Ts lnandol1 278, 2711
Varp.o. Marqu•s do 195
Vl&ne de l'Enfant J•aua 62
Tsltoka,._ Z7S
Varo1lles 86
v11,,.r1, I 184
Tsot1k0Uri ...,
,.
279
Vuolo, Petro 273
Vllftoron (dol
l
nltlon) 62
Tucum'" 331
1
Vudlkon 284
Vltnerona Schmotzer &
Tudela 196
VuaeFelbc 349
Brown 3158
Tudoillla 198
Vat47364
Vlgne1, Jean Louie 219
Tuoron1 31
11
Vatelot , Yvn 100
Vl1netl doll• Dolom1tl 11111
Tul.,.,n 378
Vathypetro 281
V11neto La Rocca 18Q
TumWumba 3e6
Vaud 250, 261 llH-2&3
V11no 337
Tunlbol'l 244
VaudHlr 78
Vl&nOblH du C.ntre 123
Tunnel, Dom de 128
Vaulorent 79
v11noblH Caron 21i11
Tun"Y'° 341
Vavuour 373
Vll"OIH grape 289, 324
Tupunpto 3Z9-329. 341
VC Mno do Colldad con
V•IO 1113
Tureklleim 128, 127
lndicoc16n Goo1rtftea) 1111
Vlllo Motomort'oolO 272
Turk9y 27, 48, 2lt
VCC oH Vieux Cnltoau
VIJorlo10 N1aro F&PO 1111
Turley, Lar
ry
313. 318
Corton
Vita Novo do Gal• 211, 214
Turan 114, TIS
VON sn Vint Doux Naturel1
Vllafont• 382
Tuoeany 174-180
VDP (Vorband Doutocnor
VIila l!luccl 172
Twardow1k/, Dan� 230
Prldlkatlwoln,utor) 224
VIII• Sandohl 288
Two lloclc Vineyord 306
22e, 23B
vmaseca 341
Tyrrot� Murro,y 364
Voochlo vllftU (dol
l
nlt1on) 13 VIII• Toln� 2113
V-Slcllla 1114, 1116. 1118, 1911. VIII& Vint& 273
Ucnizy e11
284
v111.,.. (del
l
nltlon) 62
Uc1" 111
1
Voilch, Roland 2t10
Vlllame. A and P, Dom 88
Uco Yalley 340. 341
Vol� t.rnoeoicl
<'
286
V1ll'"y 262
Ud1ne 171
VolkopaYIOVloko 211
1!
Vllla,.
.
�Fontalne 68
VI
I
'-,Ch91
1
Vlon 121
Vlllero Vineyard 1112
Vloolnho ar•pe 207, 213
Von (cMflnltiOnl 52
Vl_.Valloy 2M
Vin eu lndlc•�• GOC>FOftel
Vlrl 80
2'72
Vlr9-Clo... tli
Vtn do Conotanco 380
Vlratn•• 210 -
Vin do Frano
o
(dollnltlen) 62
Vlo 271
Vin do palllo 133. 161
Vloon 134
Vin do P�• do l'Atlontlque
v1,1nooeu, Aurol il
l
2'72
14
Vlota Flore• 341
Vin do Savolo 161
Vlotol.,_ 341
Vin du Glaclor 262
Vito11ri1po 21&
Vin Jouno 160
Vltlcoltoro (dol
l
nltlonl 166
Vin Santo 178, 180
Vttloutteur (deftn1tlon) 152
VU\a Aqultanla 337
Viti• amuren•I• 390
VIP\a F&lern1a 336
Vitll la/Jl'uoea 14, 2811
Vlfto Loyda 336
Viti• vinlfera 289, varletl••
Vlfta M�u doi Umarl 336
14-17
V1r.& Tondonla 199
Vlura&rapt 17, 1811, 11
1
8, 111
11
VIiia Zorzol 1117
VIVlno 43
Vlnarte 272
Vla..lde1 284
V1ftu vl1ju (d•ftnltlon) 13
Vlooh F•P' 267
Vino Hiil l'lancn 314
Voqtllnonoron 127
Vlnea Waonau 21511
Voerzlo, Robrto 183
Vlftodo Chadwick 331
1
Voll1nweld1r, Oan11I 232
V1t\edo• d• Alcohuaz 336
Votn� 81
Vin•• 18, canopy
Volnay Santenot1 el
man•m•nt 23, 29,
Voor-bor1 313
ellmato 11-111, 22, 21,
Vorboul'I vineyard 127
cold ,hardy hybrid• 22,
Vorontlol
l
, Mikhail, Count
2811, !toot protection 18,
278
19, 28, 30, 78, 1rattln1 11,
Voane 51
13, 23, 27, 28, 1rowln1
Voane · Roman'9 84
oouon 30-31. 31, hall
Voupot 67, ti&
dam.,. 20, 21; harveat1n1 Voupot, Clos do 10, M, 57,
30, 31, 32, 130. 16<1, 229 ,
68,M,361
308, 3<11, 363, 38<1,
Voulllamoz, Joa• 263
Irrigation 20, 20, 23, pas to Vounl Panayla 284
and dlHUes of 27. 27. 29,
Vouvr� 17, 121
30, 30, 350, 382; plant1n1
VoyaprEstate 349
denelty 29, prunln& of 13,
VQA (Vintners Quality
13, 30, 51. soils 26-26
Alllanco) 291
vanattea 14-17 vtgour of
VR (Vlnho Regional) 207, 208
29, 30, water at,.
.
u 26,
Vranac &rape 287
wlldftrea and smoke taint
Vupvaarapa 271
23, 23; winter protection
Vulkanland Stelermll
l'
k 255
18, 18, 19, 30, 291 390,
Vully 251
yields 29
Vylyan 262
Vlnoyard 29 313
Vineyards annual
Wacnau 2H-H7
man.,.ment 30-31
Wachau , Dom 256
creation of 28-28, land
Wachenhe1m 2413
prices 47
Waehtbor1 vineyard 268
Vlnna (dellnltlon) 207
Wachter-'Mester 280, 261
Vlnhlo ll'•P" 192, 209
Wachtstetter 246
Vinhas velhu (defln1t1on) 13,
Wlden&wll &rape 297
207
Wagner. Philip 289
Vmho de Portup.I 207
Wagner Stempel 238
V1nho do Taina 218, 218
Wqner Stempel , Daniel
Vinho Re11onal see VR
239
V1nho Re11on&1 Alent•Jano
Wqram 264,258
218
Wahluko Slope 30
0
Vinho Verde 207, 209
Wlllhopal 373
Vino (deftn1tlon) 155, 191
Wolma (Ure) Volley 373
Vino d'ltaha (Vino da Tavola)
Waipara 371
164, 156
W&1rarapa 370
Vino de Cal1de.d con
Wlllrau Volley 372-373
lndlcacl6n Geoar'ftca SH
Woltok1 Volley 376
vc
Wales 249
Vino de Espafta 191
Walker B� 384
Vino de la Tierra de Cut1lla y Wallo Walla Volley 294. 299
Lo6n 189, 196
300
Vino da la Tierra de
Walpole, Mark 358
Extremadura 191
Walporzhe1m 226
Vino de Puebla 191
Wanaka 376
Vino pneroso (deftn1tJon)
Wordy, Dom 286
191
Warre 214
Vino N1chta 266
Wuntnaton 19, 294, 296,
Vino Nobile d1 Montepulc1ano
21
11
-aor. 301
180
Wusmer, Fritz 246
Vino Nobile d1 Montepulc1ano
Wusmer. Martin 245
R1serva 180
Water 20-21 , 28
Vino Santo 166
Watorkloof 382
Vlnolok lfus stoppers 37, 37 Weather 20-21
Vinos de Cahdad 188
Woodenbom 239
Vinos de la Tierra 188
Wegeler 236
Vinos de Madrid 189, 1Q1
Wohlon 228 232
Vinos da Pago 188
Wehrheim, Dr 242
Vlnovatlon 238
Wehrheim, Karl· Heinz 2•1
1 Vina de Corse 149
Woll. Robert 237
Vina Doux Naturel1 (VON) 16
Well. Wiiheim 237
136, 1f(l, 142. 144 149
Weilber1 243
V1naanto 282
Wein vom Roten Hane 240
Vlnach1au &ff Valle Veno1ta
Weinbach, Dom 127
Vlnaobre 136
Wolnprt 226
Vlntace(doftnltlon) 80
Wolnaut (doftnltlonl 225
Vlnto,nju 1rapo 1411
Wolnkollorol (dollnltlon) 226
Vintners Quality Alliance .lff
Wolnvtortol 264, 258
VQA
Wois, Nlk 230
Vlnya dols F6oallo 201
Welser-KOnttJ•r 233
Vlnyu vollu (doftnltton) 13
WelHbUl"1Under grape
Vloanl1r 1rape Ar1entlna
Austria 280, Germany
3311, Australia 341!. 366,
223, 224, 221!. 227, 238,
368. 36&, Bulprla 276,
241. 244. 24&
characterl1tlc1 3a, Chile
Wel11enklrchen 266, 267
33&, Franco 128, 129, 131,
Wolllnaton 383
136. 142, 147, lorHI 287
Wolachrlullna lr&l>O 17;
Lebanon 288, North
Auotrla 264, 256, 2110, 261,
America 290, 32.1, 322,
Croatia 270, CNChla 269,
323. 32e. Portupl 208,
Hunpry 282, ltoly 171,
219. Uruauoy 332
Romania 272. 273, S.rbla
21
1
7 Slovokla 21
11
1
, Slovon1a
291; Ukra1nt1 278
W.ltnOI', Paul 247
Wondou no
o
31
13
Wenlnpr 28'1
W.ntnl*'. Fran1 293
wem:. ramtty 3'1t1
WenNI, M�hael 291
WOlt Elko 3211
We1tern Au1tralla 147-149
WHtern Cape 371
WHtfteld Htate 341
Woothatton 121
1
, 127
Wootnol'on 239
We1t1te1ermart< 2&ei
Wnloperln1 An111 141
1
Whit• wino ..
.
1n1 38. 38,
39, docantln& 4e, makln1
12, 32-33, 3&, 38, oorv1n1
temperatur'9 44, tutm1
42, 43
Wiemer. Hermann J 324
Wion 2M
Wiener G1mlacht1r S.
.
tz2M
Wlldftre1 and amokli taint 23,
23
Wlldhurot 304
Wiiiamette Valley 47, 294,
296. -291
Willcox 326
Wiiiiama S.lyem 306
Wlllunp 364
W1llunp 100 315&
Wlltlnpn 228
W1lyabrup 341
W1nd ol
l'oc
to21
Wlndobunt, Cloo 127
WineArt280
Wine bottlH 11, 37, 38,
Bocksboutol 247, 2<17
opernnaof 46
Wine Ghetto 322
Wino 1lu001 46. 269
W1ne labe-ls 41
Wine prices 4S-47
Wine production 48-49
Wine trade 11
W1nechanps 241
W1nemakln1 8. 32-M
history or 10-11
Winery Lake Vineyard 309
Win1arsk1, War
re
n 316, 326
Winkler index 302
Wtnnlna, von. estate 242
W1nn1n11en 227, 23
3
Winter, Stefan 239
Wlnter protection 18. 18, 19,
30, 291, 390
WinUenhe1m 127
W1nzer1enossenschaft/
Wlnzerverwn (deftn1t1on)
226
Wlrra Wlrra 36'5
Wlrsch1n&, Hans 247
WlaHlbrunnen 237
Wittmann 239
Wittmann, Philipp 239
Wohlmutn 256
Wolf 232
WolfBlua 360
WolfshOhle vineyard 224,
22&
Wonnepu 238. 239
Woodside 356
Woodward Canyon 30
0
Worcester 379
Worms 238
W6o
o
ndort'258
WNttonbully 346
Wurttemberg 241
Wurzbul'I 2411, 246
Wynns 357, 357
Xanadu 349
Xaroi to F•P' 200, 201
X1au Moen 390
XlnJ1&ng 390
Xlnomavro 1rape 280
Xynl1tor1 arapo 284. 284
Yobby Lake 361
Yok1mll Volley 300
Yalovo 275
Yolum.,_ 348, 360, 362. 36
6
Yam-ta 387
Yamanuhl 387
Yamhill Carlton 0-lct 296
Yanprra Eat«te 366
Yardon 267
Yarra Glen 383
Yarra Valley 27. 360, 361,
/lts2381-3U
Yarra Yerin1 362
Yatlr 287
Yattarn a 366
Yoalonds Eatato 373. 37<1
Y-1 33-34
Yee.I& 1Gl
Yellow Muscat &rape 17. 29
9
YellowT� 360
Verine Stati on 3'52
INDIX
ae9
Yerlnper1 31
12
v-. AlonlC> do! 111
11
Ylnahuan 30
0
YlnnollOll ,.
._
214
Yort<Yllle Hl.,
,.
.
ndo'!04
Yountville 312
Yquom,end' IJO." 100.
104, 106, 3111
Yunnar'I 380
Zoeatocao 327
z.tlnak ,.
.
,.
.
287
zaaorie210
Zala 283
Zambartu 214
2:am•tovka 1rap• 28'1
z.nto 282
ZonntnorLuckart 247
Zolen vape 2ee
Zoll 233
Zolt 243
Z1ttinpn 232
Zema 367
Zerbfna 1e6
Z1ro do..
..
(deftn1tlon) 80
Zlbblbo 1rape 18&
Zick, JohannH 248
Zle,.
.
1Hn, Hanapeter 24'5
Zllovka FIP9 287
Zllllkon 228
Zilllken, Dorothea 228
Zllllken, Han1 ·Joach1m
(Hanno) 228
Z11Unpr. Herbert 254
Zlmrnerhng 226
Zlnd Humbrocht 126. 127
Zlnfandel vape 11e•n1 39,
Albania 267, Australia
365. character1st1cs 17
Croatia 2n. North
America 294, 304. 305,
306, 308 . 310, 311, 313, 316,
3'19, 320, Uru1uay 332
Zlnquest 271
Zltsa 280
�laht1na vapo 2'71
Zlatarica arape 270
Znojem1ko 268
Z6bm1 258
Zon1n 174. 323
Zonmc 24
Zorah estate 'I77
Zotzenberl( 125
Zuccard1 339
Zucchlno, Claucho 339
Zuc•r fa mily 98
Zunch 251
Zwe1plt arape 38, Au1tr1a
254, 259. 260, 261, Czech1a
286, Hunpry 262

40
0
GAZETTEER
Gaz etteer
Thia pzette
e
r lists map references for producers, vineyard•, chltMux, qulntas, 1eneral win•
areas. and other 1nformet1on on the maps rn the Atlu, with th• u:cept1on of those minor place
names and 1eovaphtcal featurea that are marked on maps 1n sans Hrlftype All Bordeau>c
chkeaux are grouped together and hsted under C and all qu1ntas under Q All other chlteaux,
doma1nes. wtnerl•&- etc appear under their Individual name (eg Agel, d', Ch) Vlneyard1, etc are
1ndex.ed under their ma.in name (•I PeN"1•res. lu) ldentlcal names are dlst1nau1shed by either
their country or reg.on 1n ital1e type Alternative names are shown In brackets. Praha (Pr..ue),
etc. Wine producers whoH names 1.p
p9a
r on tt. maps are also listed The 1Jphanumer1c after
the p..e number refers to the arid reference system on th• map paaes
3Drops 347 G4
A1gle, Dom de I' 140 E6
Alpha Om..
.
314 E4
<40Cellars326C5
A1•refeullle-sur Maine
Alphonae Meflot 123 B4
10R (Toeru) 386 A6
116 C3117 G3
AlplllH 53 F6
60�s.Closd..61F3
A1grots, les 62 C3
Alpine V•lloYS 344 FS 359 BIS
98 Wines 387 B4
A1au.i1tre Dom I' 142 D3
Alps 387 B4
1000 E1merber&: 266 06
AlrH Hautes, Dom des 141 B2
Alqu ..r, Dom 142 E2
Alrfleld Estates 296 FS
Al1he1m 238 F4
AtoZ297 C4
A1ud 274 B3
Alto Alolla 201 E5
Aaldermg 383 02
A1valls 283 F6
Altaump157F4
Aalto 196 C3
A1x·en Provence 140 B6
Alta Mesa 318 C2
Aarau 2S1 A4
AJaccio 149 F3
Alto Vista 340 B2
..
..
rgau 251 A4
AJdovlt1na 286 E3
Altair 334 ca
Abaceta 295 F2
AJ1mu Budoushu K.oubou
Altanza 199 B2
Abadia de Poblet 201 E2
386 D3
111tarch•n 231 F2 G3
Abad1a Retuerta 195 C2
Akaru• 37S DS
Alte Badstube am
Abau1szAnt6 265 01
Akhashenl 279 E1
Dot<torber& 23
3
F4
A�doMorgootS9F5
Akhmeta Wine House 279 E3 Alto Burg 245 B5 B5
Abt>oye de Valm"'"° 142 F4
Alabama 290 C4
Alto Loy 226 F3
Abba.ye Notre Dame de
Alaln CaUbourc:hn 123 B5
A�e Point 267 BS 259 El
L•r1ns 147 C5
Alain Chabanon, Dom 142 D3
Altee lllotto 185 DS
AbeJ• 30
0
BS
Alain Roy Thevenin, Dom
Attenbamberg 234 F3
Abel Mendoza Monp 199 F4
68G4
Altenberg de Ber&b1eten
Abona 191 G2
Alan McCorklndale 371 E3
12S A4
Abob.. Dom 114G6
Alan, Dom de Clos d' 1'47 C3
Attenberc de Berghe1m 127
Abrau Ourso 277 83
Alaaka 290 01
C5 05
Abreu 313 F4
Alaverd1 Monastery 279 E3
Altenber& de Wolxhe1m 125 A5
Absheron 277 C6
Alba luha 273 C2 C3
Altenberc Lelthaberg
Absterde 239 B3
Alba 167 F3 169 E3 161 F2
260E3F3G3
Abtsborg 233 E4 F4
Albamar 193 C3
Altont>orc. Nousled-
Abtsfro nhof242 C2
Alban 320 C2
260 E5
Abymes 151 C5
Albany 347 G-4
Altenber&, Saar 229 A'4 A5
Acocl• 309 E4 311 G5
Alb•rolla 163 D3
B2B5C5
Ac01bo 307 CS
Albert Sounrt 68 A6
Altenburc. Alsace 127 B3
Ac
c
endo 313 GS
Albesan1 181 83
Altenburg, Kremstal 257 B5
AchAJa Clauss 283 E2
Albot y Noyo 201 E4
Attenburc. P{a/z 2'4-2 E2
Ach•val Ferrer 340 B2
Albuquerque 326 84
Altenwo1 256 E6
Achkar
ro
n244E3245D2
Albury 359 AS 344 F6
Alter Bora 260 E3
Achle1ten 257 B2
Alcamo 184 E3
Altes Woinpblrp 281 C5 C6
Ac1 ,.
..
1e 185 De
Alder R1ctse Vineyard 298 GS
Alteslno 179 AS
Aconcacua 33'4 E2 333 05
AIMnna el Eneml&o
Alto 383 F3
Acustlc 202 E4
340B3C3
Alto Adlp 185 C2
Adomcllsl 273 DS
AJea.bco d1 Gradolt 181 F3
Alto Adlp Vallo lsarco 165 B3
Adanti 181 E6
Alolla 1B6 06
Alto Adlp Vallo Venosta
Adep Cooperat1va de
Alella Vinfcola 201 E6
185 B2 C2
Col•re• 215 C1
Alemany 1 Corrio 201 F4
Alto de lo Ballena 332 G4
Adep Cooperatlva de
AJenquor 208 04 216 B5
Alto Mora 185 A6
Monc;lo 209 G2
AJontoJonc 206 E5 219 F4 F5
Altocedro 340 F1
Adep Coopetat1va de
AlontejO20605E5219F6FO
Altos Lu Horm1pa 340 C3
Palmela 2"16 E6
Al•••nd•r Mountain Estate
Altupolka 339 1!14
Adep do Moucho 192 G1
Vlnoyard 307 B5
Altura Vineyard, lu 317 F4
Adep Joae de Sousa
Aloxondor Valley 307 B4
Alupka 27
7
B2
219 F5
304 F4
Alu1ht• 277 B3
Ad•p Mu 215 B4
Alexander Vajley V1neyrds
Alvarez. y °'ez 198 G4
Adep Mayor 219 06
307 CS
Alvaro PaJaclos 202 C4
Adelaida 320 81
Alexandra 375 Ee
Al•lml• 327 F4
Ad•l&Jd• 34
4
E1 358 B3
Alexandra BMdl• 347 F1
Alyalan 307 D5
Adal.,d• Hills 34
4
E2 355 CS Alexandr• Estote 274 E4
Alzoy238 F3
35e C4 C5
Alu:eU Vineyard & Winery
Amodl•u. Dom dos 137 B4
Adelaide Plalna 3'4'4- E1
297 04
Am-r Focthlll 311 116
Adollne 353 C2
Alf2ZI B5
Amaloy• 331
1
C4
Adel1he1m 297 C3
Alforo 199 C8
Amand•le, Cloa do I' 142 E4
Ad1na 386 C5
Alfred EOlnff C•ll•ra 328 A4
Amenl 383 E1
AdJ•r• 277 C4
Alprrobo 204 B8
Am•pola Cl'Hk 309 C3
Adobe Guadalu� 327 E'4
Alprv• 208 F4
Amore Winery 328 B4
Adobe F\oad 307 G6
Alchorc 1815 B4
Amaur1ce C.llars 30
0
PJ6
Adolfo Lona 331 F4
Alcuolra 192 G3
Amavl Cellars 300 8'4
Adr•no 185 C3
Alholt 383 F8
Amoyn• 334 E4
Adyar 2815 F4
Allanc;o 217 B2
Ambolou1 379 F1 F2
Aepan 286 F3
Allcanto 188 F5
AmbolH 117 B1
Aerli 1815 B6
AUce Bonac
c
orel 186 A4
Ambonnoy 83 D5
A•tna Spr1np 311 A3
Allon 196 C3
Ambonnay, Clos d' 83 06
Alronbor1 231> D3 04
Allr• 273 E5
Ambroafa 340 01
Aftano1 231 D5
Alkooml 247 G3
Amelia Park 347 C9
Aftp 388 04
All Saints 359 Atl
Americana 326 C6
Aftpa Valley 277 114
Allen Scot
t
373 82
Am9zola de La Mora 199 81
Afton Mountain 323 F3
All.. llelJ•313 C4
Ameztia. Dom 114 G5
Apl (;�d'141113
Allovaooro 115A4
Amlau Vineyard, laa
Apna11 63 F2
All•Crot•. Dom lta 113 E4
309E6311GS
Aa:l1an1co 091 Taburno
Alle1verloren 31
1
Al
Amlndeo 281 B2
112 A2 183 A3
AH1nda 383 C4
Amirault, Y 120 C2
Acl•aotco IHI Vultur•
Allot
t
,ou• f4Ftl
Aml•ftold 376 D3
112 83 84
Al,,
,.
4a.40154
Amlty 2� D3
..
..
rolo'!40C2
Alma "- 321 C4
Amlzotto 311 C4
A,�ola Punic& 1ee 06
AlmanM 1U [l4
Ammer.chwlhr 126 04 127 B2
..
.,
,.
1t.u1bor1 229 14
Almavlva 334 C'4
Amoureu..a lea e6 F•
""°d•lloun'93B3
Almonkork 3'4 E3
Amourtert, Dom de• 137 £4
..
..
..
.,_
na 271 Al
Almocadon 205 156 ISO
Ampol°"'" 281 A4
"'ult Torollo 201 E4
Aloi• 112 "2
Am..-loa 320 F2
..
..
.
..286f1
Aloneo Ml Verro 196 83
Amphorae 287 CM
Ahlar9n :.P C2
Alo.<eCortOt'11606Oi
i
67C3 Amt
ta
rt•n 233 G1
Ahr 221 £2
Alpamanto 340 C2
Anadl•208114217 C2
A1dar1n11 '281 A
AlphaBu•I<Die.3e&04
Anaforat 20!I E5
AletUI1"�116
Alph• Oomus 39Q C'4
A-334C8
A1"41:l!JF'Fl
Alpt\a Eet.ate 281 A2
Makot& Ver1te 307 C6
Anam Cara 2i7 C4
Anapa 277 B3
Anutul• Frll
lDU
281 De
Anc•nla 118 B3
Anclenn• Cure, Dom d• I'
113 Ee
Ancient Lakt a 295 A6 86
290 B5
Ancre Hiil 249 F3
Andau 255 C8
Andaluna Cellars 340 01
Anderson Valley 304 02
Anderson'• Conn Valley
311 83 84
Andlau 125 C4
And"' Bonhomme, Dom
69 C5
Andr-9 et Michel Quenard
162 C4
Andrew Murray 321 B6
Andrew Will 296 A3
Anpston 351 C5 352 04
Ana:el Lorenzo Cachazo,
Martivllll 196 G6
Angal's Estate 274 E4
Angolo. d 182 B3
Angl6s, Ch d' 141 C5
Anates. l•s 61 F5
An1tore, Dom I' 138 GS
An1ov• 355 04
A"IUIX 195 B3
Anhel, Cloa de I 141 D2
Anh1alos 281 83
A"•na 205 C4
An1ou-V1llaces Br1uac 118 83
Ankara 286 F4
Annaberg 242 A1
Anne Amie 297 D3
Anne Gros & Jean Paul
Tollot. Dom 141 B3
Annex Kloof 381 C4
Anaontca Costa
doll'Araentorlo 173 D2
Antadzo 279 F3
Antech 140 DS
Anthonlj Rupert 383 D4 D5
Anthony Road 32S B4 C4
Ant1ca 311 D6
Ant1ca Tenuta del Nanfro
184 G5
Antich! Poderi Jerzu 186 C6
Ant1sua Bodega 332 G3
Ant1nor1 177 D3
Ant1oche 286 G6
Ant1yal 334 C4
Antonin Rodet 68 B5
Antonio Cagiano 183 AS
Ant6mo Madeira 217 C6
Antonio MU 340 02
Antoruolo 156 F3
Antonius Brunnen 229 E1 Fl
Antomusberg 229 G3
Antonopoulos 283 E2
Antucura 340 F1 F2
Anure 383 C3
AoYun38
8
84
Apalto 335 D1 33
3
Ee
Apetlon 25S C5
Apkhaz•tl 277 B4
Apotheko 231 F3 G3
Appenhe1m 238 02
Applopto Valley 295 G2
Apremont 162 C6
Ap11oy Gor&o vtnoyord aee E3
Aqu•rl•, Ch d' 138 GO
Aqultanla 334 C3
Arabe.ko Txakollna 188 C3
Aranda de Duero 196 C4
Aranyoa 286 G4
Ararat 34
4
G3 359 C1
Arbln 152 C5
Arbol1 151 04
Arbols, Fruitier& Vinlcole d'
151 D5
Arboleda 334 E2
Arbol•d.. la 340 D2
Arborlna 183 C4
Arcadia 285 E3
Arcanpll 384 E5
Archance1 375 B5
Archie• Kleonea 283 E4
Archery Summit 297 D3
Arcurla 1815 Al5
Ardlll•ta, lu 73 C4
Ardolal..
..,
1,Dom1&2C&
Aronborl. d' 355 04
Arettl 335 02
Arozzo 173 B4
Ar'"'1tlero 175 C4
Arpnt1ne 330 04
Aratano 179 04
Ara<llat, I' 61 A2
Ar1.Uat1, aux 114 Ftl
Ar1t11at1 , too M Ee
A'11U1•ro
o
,tea.
a•.,.
..,
Chaml»rtln Sil F4
Ar&Hllna, lea,
NuJtr St�·64F2
Ar&lolH lie 06
A'lo• 291 D3 283 F4
Arm<I• 2g7 03
Ar�roa 281 E5
AUH)', lie1 81 F�
Arh6nta 281 F4
Auatln 326 C8
ArhN 283 E4
Auxey-Du,.
.
1ns6606e101
Ar..nna Occhipinti 184 G6
Avancla 192 G-4
Arfnzano 181 E5
Avantla 281 C3
Arlone 183 Fe
Avaux. Cloe des 82 C3
Arliona 290 C2
Avaux, lea 82 C3
Arizona Stronstiold 326 B3
Avonoy 83 04
Arjollo, Dom de r 142 F2
Avenlr, I ' 383 02
Arkan ..
.
290 C4
A.venture I 320 81
Arlanza 188 C3
Avl,1noneat 180 A6
Ari•�" Ch d' 151 E4
Avtncl1 273 03
Arlowood 34SI G5
Avlzo 83 F3
Arlot, Cloe de I' 64 F1
Avoca 344 G4
Arman Franc 271 A1
Avoinea, aux 67 C3
Armld• 307 D6
Avondale 383 B4 B6
Armus•rlH, les 121 B2
Avontuur 393 F2
Arnaldo Caprai 181 E6 F6
Awatere River Wine Co
Arnedo 199 C4
374 E5
Arnulfo 163 E3
Awatere Valley 374 F4
Aroma Ch 388 A3
Awatere Lower 374 E6
Aroma&, dom des 390 B3
Axe Hlll 37Q F6
Aromo. El 33S E3
Axpomt 266 06
Arp4dhogy 265 F1
Ay83D3
Arretxea , Dom 114 G6 G6
Aydle. Ch d 116 F2
Arr1bes 188 02
AyrN 186 E5
Arrowo
od
309 C2
Ayzo 162 A6
Arroyo Grande Valley 320 D2 Azalea Sprlnga 311 82
Arroyo Seco 317 G4
Any lo Rideau 116 06
Arruda 208 D4 216 C4 C5
Az• 69 C4
Arsos 284 C6
Azerbaycan (Azerba1j-.n)
Artadl 199 F6
Z77 CS C5
Artazu (Artadl) 197 A4 AS
Azucca e Azucco 386 06
Artemis Karamolecos 281 E6 Azul y Granza 197 86
Artem1ss10 283 F3
Artes• 309 04 311 F5
B Vinters 383 E1
Artesana 332 G3
Babadag 273 DS
Artlps 330 ES 332 E3
Babcock 321 B3
Artisan• of Baroasa 351 C4
Bab1ll..
..
..
. los65F6
Artuke 199 GS
Bablut, Dom de 118 B6
Arvalets, IH, Pommard
Babylon's Peal< 381 04
61E662B1
Babytonstoren 383 C3
Arvolets, les Gev,.
.,y-
Bacalhba Vinhos, AlenteJO
Chambertin 67 B2
219 ES
Arzuasa Navorro 195 C1
Bacalh& Vlnhos, Setubal
Asara 383 E2
215 E4 E5
Aschatfenbur1247 B1
Becchus. Ch 390 C3
Ascol/ Piceno 173 E6
Bachen, Ch de 115 El
AsenovlJ'ad 274 E3
Elotka 257 E5
Asenovgrad (Assenovgrad)
Backsbof'I 383 C3
274 E3
Bad 8orpaborn 241 E3
Ash Ridge 369 C4
Bad 0Urkha1m 2:41 B4 243 C1
Ashbourne 384 G5
Bad Kreuznach 234 E3
Ashbro
o
kEstate348ES
Bad Kroz1n1 24
4
E3
Ashes & Diamonds 311 ES F5
Bad Munsteram Stem 235 F6
Ashton Hills 356C4
Bad Munster-Ebernbur1
Asllt161 C2
234 F3
Asolo Prosecco 165 D3 04
Bad Neuenahr 223 E2
Aaprokamboa 283 E3
226F4F5
Aulsl 173 D4 181 E6
Bad Sobomhelm 234 F2
Astolla 292 G6
Bad VOSl•u 255 C4
Aster 195 B3
Badocsony 263 C2
Aab 1S7 E3
BadacsonytomlJ 263 C2
Astley 249 F3
Bad..on1 279 E3
Astrales 196 B3
Baden. Austrta 265 C4 C5
Astrolabe 373 B2
Baden, Germany 223 F2 G3
Aaunc16n 330 05
Badenhorst Family Wines, A
At Roca 201 E4
A381 04 05
Ato Ra"ll 370 C4 84
Badia a Co�lbuono in E5
Atalde da Costa Martins
Badische B•t"lst rasse
SemodQ 217 C2
244 85
At•1"1tl 281 C3
Badoz, Dom 151 E5
Atalaya 205 81
Bagatelle. Clos 141 84
Atamlaque 340 01
Bqdad Hiiia 366 F2
Atara.x1a 384 F6
Elqloo Hopps 164 F2
Atascadero 320 B1 82
Baanol . Dom du 146 06
Atoller d• Bt
t
u Poy-. 1'
Ba
a
not1 Frtularo 1e5 E4
387 "4
Bahltn&•n 245 84
Aten1 277 CS
Ba11orrl 199 F5
Athffa, aux M Ge
Ba1kon 237 E3 F3
Athots , lta 65 G5
Ball•yan• 320 C2
Athlna 281 D3
B.,l•y1 359 B5
Atlbal• 286 E4
Ba1llat. Dom 1�1 02
Atlantlquo 53 E2
8alnbrlctse l1land 295 A3
Atlu Peal< 311 D6 De
Balrrada 208 B4 217 C1
AUuahl Suzuki, Dom 3815 A6
Balxada Finca Don. la 202 D4
Attia Bodo..
.
193 C3
Balxo Corio 211 E4 212 D6
Atwater 325 CS
8&khchy11ra1 277 B2
Atzt>orc 25tl oe
Bakl {Baku) 277 CS
Au Bon Cllmot 320 03
Balaton-felvld•k 283 82 C2
AubercUro, I' 121 B3
Balatonbo&I"' 2tl3 C2
Aubue1, IH 60 G3
B•l•tonfOrod 283 C2
Aubu•s, lea 120 F3
BalatonfOred ·Ctopak
Aubu19tha, Dom dQ 121 1!13
283 B2 C2
Auckland 3e7 86
Balbaln• Alta 206 04
Audob1rt I< Flis 120 02
Balbtln• BaJ• 206 D:<
Audll"ac, Clot d' 11 F4
Balboe 300 B4
Audrey Wllklnaon 3e5 04
Balcon de l'Herm1tqe , I•
AuorothaJ 286 B5
133"4A6
Auf dar Heide 23
3
Bl
Bald Hills 376 D5
AJ
Jf
der Wtlvn..,. Kupp
Baldaoc: 316 B2
229 A3
..,_nl• 16UB3
Aulolthon 25e Oi
i
BallaGer&273(1C2
Aulorcla 23Q B3 B4
Ballarat 344 G<4 35U CJ
Auntatlold 373 C2
!lallardCanyon 320 El F1
Aupdhac Dom d' 142 03
a21 14�4
Aureha Vlf�neaeu 273 C4 Ce
aa1na"" 16" oe
Aurora 284' 04
BamboNBe.)'179\.
.
1
Aurum :'J750&
f!anatRom�a.271 L
Au1Ntl, Dom de I' lA.6 03
li
il
anat C:.erOJa itft1 £�
Aus••.,._• 'lomd' 1"1 C.4
Ba.l'M.
.
le60 >I
Bem:rof\ Ranch Vlnoyard
3nB4
Bll
lldl<
rtftn260F3
llan1J10ek 383 D•
Bannoc�M'I. Auat:ro11a
369D3
Bannockburn, NMV ZeaJand
375 D5
8'nybz 265 E2
BAny1h•I)' 265 ce
BaraquH ee C5 ce
l!larbabocehl 185/'5
8arbadUlo 204 Ae
Berbanou Ch14606
BarbaraForta200G6
Barbero21!5F3
Barbareooo 157 F3159 03
161 C2
Barberto 221 C3
Barbare d'Alba 167 E3
Barberad'A&t r 159 04 05
Barbare dot Monferrato
167 E4
Barbaran1 181 F4
Barbieres. los 61 E3
BarbourSVllle 323 F4
Barcelona 188 06 201 E5
Bardanna 163 E5
Bardotlno 185 E2168 E5
Batdohno Cluslco 186 E2
168 FS
Barol 285 F3
Berptto 317 D2 D3
Bargu1ns. les 121 83
Bargylus Dom De 286 04
Ban 182 A5
Bancc1 179 85
Bark&.Ch286E6
Barkan 287 E4
Barlet
ta
182 A4
Barnard Griffin 29
9
El
Barnet
t
311 B2
Barolo 1S7 F3 159 E2 E3
163 D2
Baron 8aJboo 38
8
A4
BarOn Balch'• 327 04
Bar0ndeLey199B3
Baron Widmann 167 F6
Baronarquee, Dom de 'MO 06
Barone d1 Vlllagranda,
Aeo/IOIJ lstands 184 05
Barone d1 V1ll.,
,.
..,
de. SlcHy
165BSC6
Baronne, Ch la 141 C2
Baroasa Valley 34
4
E2351C3
352 D3 04
Baros
sa
Valley Estate 351 83
Barot
t
es,las65F5
Barr 126 B4
Barra 304 03
Barraco 184 F2
Bar
r
encu340C2
Barratt Wines 356 C4
Barraud Dom 70 83
Barre Desaus, la 61 F2
Barre, Clos de • 61 F2
Barre, en la 61 F2
Barre, la. Volnczy 61 F4
Barre, la, Vouvr<zy 121 B3 C6
Barres, es 87 C3
Barres. IH 63 06
Barrl•res, aux 65 Fl
Barroche, Dom la 139 E3
Barros, Artur de & Sousa
221 D3
Barroublo, Dom de 141 93
8aruc 8S E4105A3
8arto 285 F2
B•rtfal 285 E2
Bartha Ek•tun 384 G5
Bartholomew Park 309 03
Bartinney 383 04
B•rtofi. do 184 F2
Barton 384 ES
Barwick Estate 341> 05
Bai Chenev•ry ee C2
l!la•doCombe,ou86F1
BHd•Gomoy•l'Eat.lo60E3
Baad•Mon+n,le80D2
Bas d• Poollanp, au 80 Btl
BH dea DurH&H 11 E2
8&1 dea SauHlllea, I• 6212
Bude•Teurona le82C4
Bas Oolx., let 85 F4
Su L1•rd1, les 93 Bl
Bu M areonneta ti3 Cl
BuVala<t 253 F1
BH,Ch14ell6
8Har1n 1451 03
BaMl 261 A3
S.Hlblet2&1 A3
l!la1ket �Ut1C4
Bau Phillip 359 06
Bauea ChetHe�rM I••
er 1C2
8aa.H Mourott.. 8:.J '"fJ
8HtM VeraeleaMI 03 82
BUM1 v..-..
..
..
..
.
te1&:Ba
e.
.q.
.
p24"C2C°*
Bast-9, Clot 1'F.1
5il.a•t- )'Ul, ,:K

Baattarueh 171 BS
l!lofl•llrdO. Dom 115 Q1
l!oyHaQ,Domdo115�
81.tt1d• ai.nch•, Dom la
BeHaa ,.
.
1.,.,.
.
., Dom ffs
8'zanne1 83 A3
141
1
D4
142 n
Bt10,Cloodoefl1MC4
13utlde du Claux 135 u;
Bollot, Ch do 147 Ae
ll
l
onchotlo dol t.4etauro 173
Bit.rd Montrochot !IO G3
Bellevue la Fortt, Ch 115 El!
C& CI
Batlt288 �2
8•11evue, Ch d• 74 04
ll
l
anco di Cuotoza 186 £2
8tt.1sta 3-47 F2
llollovuo, Dom le Cloe do
1l
l8
GI!
Batroun 2efl GI
14a D1
Blanco di PltlCllono 173 C3 03
B•troun Mountain• 281 04
llollln1ham 383 oe
Blboyofr 327 E4
81.ttaodea, le• 69 G5
Bellmunt d•t Pr'lorat 202 D4
Blblch 271 C3
!11.tter1•Mir& 233 ce
Bolluard, Dom 162 All
Blbll• Chora 281 A4
Battle of Bosworth 36
6
06 ES Bollvolo aee D6
lllchofpomt 259 Fl
9aud P•re et Fii&, Dom 151 F4 llollwothor 357 A6
Bldoudo. lo 86 92
S.udona 183 C4
Belmont 3efl F2
BldoudJ',.
..
, IOI121B4
B1ud1ro, Ch 115 E5
Bolondroda 11
11
1
F5
Blddendon 249 G4 G5
S.Udea, lea 86 Fe ee c1
a•touve {Dom Bunan), Dom
Bloboloholm 239 E2
B1ucl
ln
o1,IOI51
1
El! F6
148 04
BlelerHe 251 82
S.Udry-Dutour 120 F&
Bolz 242 E2
Blon Nocldo Vineyard• 320 E3
Baulo 117 Aa
Bombor1 Estate 340 01
Blononbor1 246 AB
Boulet Cloo efl C2
Bon Morven 373 C3
81envenlda de Vinos 19t!I F3
kumard, Dom dH 118 B2
Benanti 185 C5
B1envenues Bltard
Boumo.Domdola142Fa
BenchH at Wallula Gap. The
Montrachet 60 G3
Bly offlro1 3efl D2
299 Gl
Blorzo 188 C2 182 F6
Boamovlllo Bench 2113 F3
BendllO, Au1tra/1a 3« F4
Blovaux 69 Da Ea
Beatoa, Dom dos 146 BS
a59 B3
Blferno 173 Ge 182 Aa
Beatty Ranch Vineyard 311 A3
Bondlgo, ,.,.,. Zoaland 376 C6 Bl16 265 Ga
Beau Con1tant1a 380
Bonopo 340 B2
Bila Haut, Dom du 146 D3
A4B4B6
Beneaaere 313 E4
Bllanclo 3811 C4
Beau P•ro, Cloo du 109 D2
Ben1uela Cove 3&4 F4
Bllboo 188 C3
BHU Puy 120 C2
Benito Dusi Vineyard 320 82
Bildatock 240 F3 F4
Beaucastel. Ch de 139 A4
Benito Ferrara 183 A4
Bllhorod Dnl1trov1ky 270 Al
Bnuder, Clos 61 E6 F6
Benjamin Romeo 199 F4
Blllard 66 C6
Boaujeu. 73 C4
Benmore Valley 304 E4
Bllh&h•lm lntenhelm 241 04
Beaulieu 314 E4
Benn 239 83
B1ll1boro a25 B4
Bee.ulleu-sur· Layon 116 B4
Bennett Lane 311 A1
Biiiy lo·Grond 83 C6
118 C3
Bennett Valley 309 B1
Blmbod1on 366 CS
Beaulieu, Ch de 115 C2
Bennw1hr 125 04 127 C3
Blndl 359C3
Beaume 133 C4
Beno1tes, las 59 GS
B1n1on 234 04 2a6 Gl 2a8 Dl
Beaumas de-Venlae 135 C3
Benov1a 307 ES
Bingham Family Vineyards
137 DS
Bonton City 290 F6 Gl
326 85
Beaumont 384 ES
Benton Lane 29S E2
B1nlssalem 188 GS
Beaumont Cellars 298 85
Benvenuti 271 Al
B1nyamma 287 E5
Beaumont-sur·Vesle 83 B6
Benz1cer 309 C2
BooBio330E433aFS
Beaumonts, les 63 02
Boograd 267 FS
335FSF6
Boauno56 D556E562E4
Boograd (Bolgrode) 267 ES
B1ond1 185 CS
Booureprd S9 F4
B•rangerare, Dom de la 115 C4 B1ond1 Santi 179 C&
Boaureprd, Ch de 70 C4
Berdtot 79 D6
Bird In Hand a66 CS
Beaureprds. les 79 G2
B•ros 265 Ea
BirdonaWire363C5
Beaurenard; Dom de 139 F3
Berg Kaiswatelnfela 236 F1
B1rkweller 241 D3
Boourepalre 59 E3
Bera Roseneck 236 F2
81schofpo1nt 257 C6 C6
Boouroy 79 02 03
Bers Rottland 236 F2 G2
2S9 Fl
Beauvais 120 C3
Berg Schloesber& 236 F1
Boschofsbors 236 F2
Beaux Bruns, aux 65 F5
Borg22B FS
81&ehofsgartan 242 D3 E3
Beaux Fougets, les 62 02
Borsboldstock 2a7 F4
B1squertt 334 06
Beaux F..
.,.
.
s297C3
Berge1sa 163 D3
Blsseull 83 04 D6
Beaux Monts Bu. les 65 F3
Ber1era�Pez
zole
163 E2
81ssy·la Milconnai• 69 84 B6
Beaux Monts Hauts
a.,.
..
roc 113 E5
Bltolo 267 G5
Rougeots 65 E3
Bo.Pres losN<irtus 83 Ga
B1zlwko Txakollna 188 C4
Beaux Monts Hauts . lea
Bergene, Domde la 118 E3
B1ana 1n cs
6SE3F3
Berger1e, la 80 G2
B1ornstad 307 E6
Beblenhetm 125 04 127 C3
Ber1ev1n Lane 30
0
84
Bk Wines 36
6
C4
Bochtholm 236 F4
Bergheom 125 04 127 06
Blaauwldlppon a63 Ea
S.Ck,Chde134F6
Bersholtz 125 FS126 Al
Blact 73 ES
Becker Vineyards 326 C5
Bergholtz Zel 126 A2
Black Barn 369 C5
Bocketts, A' 249 G3
Bergkelder 383 02
Black Estate a11 F3
Beckmon 321 C5
Borporche 240 DS
Black Hiiis 292 GS
Beckstof
fe
rToKaJon314F4
Bergschl6sschen 229 El
Block Mesa 326 A4 B4
Bock9tolfor Vineyard 304 F5 Bergschmallloter 260 Ea
Black Oystorcatchor 379 Ga
Beckstof
f
er Vineyard
Berptrom 297 C3
Black Rids• 375 ES
Geor- 111 314 E4
Bergweinprten 260 E2
Block Sea 286 F6
Bedell 324 E2
Beringer 313 F4
Block Sea Gold 274 ES
Bedford 320 Ea
Beringer Vineyards 307 C6
Black Sheep 318 04
Bedrock Vineyard 309 C2
Berlou Co op 141 A4
Blackbird 311 DS
Bee, Dom ofthe 146 D2 D3
Sermersheim 238 G3
Blackbird Vineyard 311 E5
Beochworth 344 F6 F6
239 B2 B3
Black1ack 359 B3
359 B6
Bern 251 B3
Blackstone 309 B2
Beil\lns 252 E4
Bernadot 161 E2
Blackwater 383 C2
Besudo, Dom 140 oe
Barnard Baudry 120 FS
Blackwood Valley 347 F2
8'1UdO. Dom do la 148 C3
Bernardina, Dom des 137 06
Blaany, Hameau de 60 F4
!Mguonoa,le183A2
Bernardua 317 F3
Blqoovgrod 274 E2
Behrens Family 311 C2 ca
B8rne, le 180 C4
Bla1 273C3
eo1
1
1nc 38
8
AS
Bernkutel -Kues 227 C5
Blanc, Cloa 61 F6 62 C1
Bet1on1Bolonlbo<>388 E3
23a F4
Blanc, le Clos 6S F4
Boln 383E1
Berriot, Cloa eo Gl
Blancharde, la 63 C6
Belro At<lntlco 208 C4
Borr1 34
4
E2
Blanchards, lea 66 C2
BeOJ'& lntof'lor 208 85 C6
Berrio, Tho 379 G3
Blanches Fleurs 62 C6
Beirut (Boyrouthl 286 F3
Berry's Brldp a59 B2
Blanches, ez 61 E4
Baku Valley286 GI
Borthot-Bondot, Dom 161 F4
Blanchl10orlo, la 62 C4 04
Bokocs 28S GI
Berthot, Clos 63 84
Blanchot 79 E4
Bekli11 285 F3
Berthoum1eu, Dom 115 F2
Blanchot Oosoous 60 G2
Sokkers 35S 04
Bertina, "'1
1
61 F5
Bl•nchot 0.HUI eo G2
Bef -Atr, G�Chambertm
Bertrand Berp, Dom 141 F3
Blonk Canvu 373 Ca
88114
Bertranoux,, Dom dH 113 Ee
Blanvllle, Dom 142 E3
Bol Air. Vowray 121 83
Boryolav 277 A2
Blatnlce 268 G3 G4
Belftold 384 03
Som·I• VIII• es E3
Bloye86C386D4
Bof
f'
ord365S6
eo,.
..
.
1. Chltol 89 D3
Blatl� 171 CS
Bolhurot 325 B4
80110 Valley 274 E3
Blenheim, New Zealand 387
B•hnprd. Ch 113 ES
Bouarda, los 133 C6
C5 373 C3
aerocoonc1 62 D3
Boat'1 3611 C2
Blonholm, Vll'fllnla 323 G4
Boll Hiil 371 E2
Bothany 3&1 C4
Bl...
.
117 82
Bol
l
Mountoin 326 86
Bothoi Hol1hts 2117 Ea
Bllonachwlllor 12S C4
Bolla307B4C4
Botaok 285 F3
Blind River 374 F5
llello Oaks Vineyard
Bot
to
lhaua 242 Ba
Bloemondol a79 F1
314 E3
Bet
to
r Half Dom Monoda
Bloomer Creek 325 ca
Bollarla Alta17S A5
274 E4
Blottl•ro•, IOI 120 C4
Bollarmlno 347 F2
Betz Pomlly 286 A3
Bloy, Ch du 113 E4
Bollbird Sprln1371 F2
Bousnona711F2
B!Ochorpfod 2a9 Cl C2
Boile Croix 64 F4 FS
Beut
toa
,leal!OG2
Blue Pyronoo1 359 C2
BelloDsme123C4
Bovan 309al
Bluoboll 249 G4
Bolio Vue. Ch 288 F4
Bo• 263F2
Blume 228 G2
Bollllfon 59 Fa
Boyorckloot aes 02
Boa 1 Qulntu Z17 C3
Bou1118F31&704
Boeco Eltco
o
1116F3F4
llockonau 234 E2
173 A6 A8
l!loekonholm 241 M
lloHnholm 234 E4
l!lookftlo
o
o26686
loolnek11 213 F3
Bockololn !129 E3
llolklnoc 271 B2
BodepGar.On332G4G&
lloaman 3711 F2
Bodop OcHn•ca JoM
9oana 1 Hercqovlna 287 F4
11noc10 332 GI!
llo
o
quot doo Papoo 13'1 E3
Bodop. Plorco 326 83
lloHliro, lo !f
f!
A1
l!lodopo do Santo Toma.
BoHl..
..
o66F2G2
327 G4
Boaw.11, Ch 313 E4
Bodop1 Ro 334 E3
Bot River 3711 G2 314 E4
Bod- Roojanu 1119 Bl
Botalcuro 335 E2
BodolU San Mortin 1117 Bl!
Botanic• 383 02
Bodenh•lm 238 04
Botaveau 159 E2
Boden1n 244 F4 F6
Bothy 24i F4
Bodro1kere1ztUr 28& F3
Botromqno 182 B4
Bodro1kl1falud 266 F3
Bott 266 F3
BodrosolHzl 266 DS
Bottolory 383 DI
Boo1or 318 B3
Bou 117 A4
Boekenhoutakloof 383 E6
Bouaye 116 C2
Bopc1 283 B4 B6
Boucaud&, �& 123 83
Bolio 318 Cl C2
Boucha•n• 3011 E5 31
1
GS
Bollyoako 2116 C6
Bouchard Flnlayaon 384 F&
B6hll1242 E2
Boucharoy 131 B4
Boho'"'J 266 E2
Bouche, Cloa 131 D3
Bohorca 204 1!6
Bouc�ro. la 61 E4
Bohotln 273 116
Bouchma, IH eO Fe
Bolchea, IH 82 C6 D6
BoucherottM, lea e2 C2
Bolchot, on 51
1
F3
Bouchon, J 336 E3
Bolrottoo, 101 S9 Fl!
Bouchola, loa efl B2
Bolron, Dom du ms D3
Boudou, Dom 145 D4
Bolo d'Hort!uoa, IH !13 Cl!
Bouc11•rn. I•• e1 Bl
Bola do Blqny, lo l!O ES
Boudota, aux ee; Fl
Bo11 de Chusaane 59 F5
Boudru
ux
Colloro 295 A4
Bois doToppoo 83 C8
Boudrl'1-91, IH 80 G4
Bots dH M..
..
.Domdu
Boudrlotto. la 59 F6
1a7 c4
Souro• 79 03 04
Bois Glbault 123 C4 C6
Boui111h, Dom de la 137 C5
8011 Roussot 63 CS
Boulay, le 117 A1
8011 -Rideau, le 121 B3
Boulevard Naplo9on 141 B2
801&, Clos du 307 B4 C4
Boulmuu e3 ca
Bo1ssey 131 F2
Boulotla, la ea ca
Soisson, Dom 137 B4
Boundary Breaks 326 C5
Bolvm, le 67 84
Bourclonnerie, la 131 02
Bok11ch 318 D3
Bourg85C38604
Boland 383 A4
eou,.
.,
LoClosdu121B3
Boldoa, Ch Loo a34 C6
Sourpots, le& 83 C1
Bolshorl 173 B2 176 B5 CS
Bourtea 117 C4
Bolprl Sualcala 176 B4 B5
Bourgneuf-en-Retz 11e C2
Bolhrod 277 A1
Bourco1n• Ch1try 77 C4
Bol1Yfa 330C4
Bou,.
.0
1ne C6tea d'Auxel"N
Bollenber1126 B2
77 Ca
Bolney 249 G4
Bouraoane Coulanp1-1a
Bologna 166 G3
Vlneuee 77 C3
Balzano, Bozen 165 C3
Bouf'IOIJMI Ep1neu1l n 86
167 C6
Bourao1n• Tonnerre n A6
Bomboly 286 F2
Bouf'IUOll 116 El6 120 02 D3
Bon Cllmat , I• 320 E3
Bounllon dOrl..ns, Dom
Bon Courap 379 F3
121 B2
Bonavita 184 E6
Boura
an
, Boisde139F3
Bonc1e. le 1n F6
BouscasN, Ch 116 F2
Bond 314 F4
Boushey Vineyard 298 E5
Bondar 365 04 D6
Bou&se d'Or 61 F4
Bondues. les 60 G2
Bouaulots, aux 64 F6
Bongran , Dom de la 89 CS
BoutduMonde,Domdu
Bonheur, le 383 C3
145 02
Bon1pert1 166 G4
Boularo 281 A3 B2 E4 F4
Bonnellere, Dom la 11Q F4
Bouthi•res, awe 70 C4
Bonnes Mares, lee 65 F8
Bout••res, aux 83 C2
66 C1
Bout1•res, lea 63 C2 C3 03
Bonnet. Dom 116 C2
BoutodlottH, aux 67 Cl
Bonneville-et St Avlt"de
Boutonn1ers, le• 81 E2
Fumact1•res 113 E3
Bouvet-Ladubay 119 E3
Bonnezeaux 116 EM BS 118
Bouza 332 G3
D4 05
Bouzeron 55 05 68 A5
BOnm&he1m 244 C6
Bouzy 83D6
Bonny Doon Vineyard 317 02 BOWOft Eatat9:357 06
Bonny-sur Loire 117 85
BoxGrove359B4
Bon& Feuvres. les 62 D2
Boxwood 32a De
Bonterra 304 E4
Braccesca, la 180 84
Bonvollars 2Sl B2
Brac
c
oBooca332G3G4
Bonyhad 263 ca
Brachetto d'Acqu1 157 F3 F4
Bookchtr 326 A4
159 ES
Bookwoltor 299 El E2
Br&1n- aur-Allonnes 118 86
Booth's Tam1nlck Cellars
Bramaterra 156 F2 167 03
aS9 AS
Brana, Dom 114 G6
Boplaas 379 F6
Brancala 177 F3
• Borba 219 05
Brancott Estate 373 C2
Borden Ranch 318 C3
Brancott Valley a73 C2
Bord•n,ve , Dom 116 Gl
Brand 127 B1
Bordlnl 161 B3 84
Brand'• Lair& 357 B5
Boi'etlco 286 G3
Brand's Lalra Stent1ford
Bor1011, HM 221 D3
3S7 85B6
Borio dol Tl1llo 171 04
Brondbors 295 F2
Borio San Danlele 171 04
Brander 321 B5
Borle de Maurel, Dom 141 92
Brandlln 311 B2
Borio la Vila..
.
lo 141 A4
Brosh Vineyard 3411 D5
Borkut 266 F2
BrHll 330 C6
Bornord, Phlllppo 151 D5
Braalha 330 03
BornlquH, IH 66 F4
Bru1ftold 304 E5
Borovltza 274 Cl
Bratanov 274 E4
Borthwick a70 l!l!l
Bratenhoft;hen 233 F4
l!lortoll, do 36a B4 a6S D5
Bratl1i•v• 286 G3
Borzone 183 84 85
Brau, Ch do 141 C1
Boscorolll 180 C5
Braune Kupp 229 B3
Bo1careto 1e:a £4 El5
Brounobor1 231 B!l 233 G1
Boach• Vineyard 314 E3
l!lraunfol1 221
1
C3
Bo1chendal 383 04-
Bravo. JC327 E4
Bo1chottl 163 D3 E3
Brozoy, loo !Ii
i
F!l66Cl
Boschktoof 383 E2
Brea 1e3 06
llreaJ<ylloltom24CIG4
llroem C.-k 3MF3
..
._
._ce
Bi'eclav 2'6Q3
lrHdo lllvor Valloy 3711 F3
Bro
odo
klo
of
3711F2F!
Bropnzo 166 D3
a._ 304E2
B""IOYlt• H rvotoko 287 E4
9relapu 244 E3
11,.
.
ltor Roln 269 D3
B..
.io
ncol!OCil4
BreleuK, IH 87 1'4 B6
Bromm 227 86
llronnan Vlnoy1rd1 326 BB
Brooeul on 82 82
Bro11 3511 S3
Bro11&n 171 E5
BrHHndH, IH e2 16 83 C.4
9NHla 340 C2
Bret Brother• 70 El!
Br�rin1, t.1 81 02
BreUenhetm 234 E4
Brouol, Ch du 118 C2
Brower Chlton a20 F2
Br•z• 118 C5 119 G6
Br91', Ch do 1111 G4
Brl, lo 383 De
Brian Carter Cellara 2� A.3
Briar Rldp 366 D5
Bric Mice• 161 04
Brlcco San Pietro 183 F3
Br1cco Ambrojk> 183 83
Brlcco 8o1Chi1 183 C4
Br1cco de Naive 1e1 06
Brlcco de Tre110 161 E2
Brlcco delle Viole 163 02
Br1cco ManelCotto 183 83 84
Bricco Manzonl 163 C3
Br1cco Roc
c
he163D4
Brtcco San B1aaio 163 83
BMCcol1na 183 E4 E5
Br.ck Houae 297 C3
Bride Valley 249 Ga
Brodi• Pa TroanClo 369 C4
BrKtpv1ew 2Q6 G2
Br1dpwater, SouthAuatraha
34
4
E2351
1
04
Br1dpwater, Victoria 344 F4
Brldlewood Eat.ate 321 86 C5
Br1e271 D5
Bro1ht-ll 249 F3 F4
Brin. Dom d• 116 06
Br1nd1si 182 86
Br1n1 365 C6
Briones 199 G4
Br1quottes, lea 83 Ce
Br1eu Vineyard, las 309 E4
Brisbane 346 A3
Bnssac, Ch de 118 B5
Br1tJsh Columbia 290 A1
Brittan 297 02
Brno 286 F3
Broodloy 296 E2
Broke Fordwoch 345 Dl E1
Brokenwood 365 04
Bronco Wm• Company
303 C4
Brook Farm 249 F5
Bro
o
kftoldo 369 BS
Brookland Valley 349 ES
Brooks 297 D3
Brone, la 131 A4
Brou1llards, les 61 FS
Brou1lly55F673D574F4
G47SF4G4
Bl'OoonBroe359E16
Brown Brothers 36
6
E3
Brown Ealato a11 C6
Bru Bacha, Dom 115 Gt
Bruck 2615 05
Bruck an der Leith&
256C5C6
BrUckchen 240 F4
Brucke 236 G3
Brudersber1 240 04
Brudorschoft 230 E6
2at E1 E2
Bruderthal 126 A5
BrUIMs, aux, F"'ln 57 B2
BrOIMa, aux, Vosne Romanf
f
65 F2
BrulHS, lea 64 F4 G4
BrO�s. lea 70 D4
Brunate 163 C2
Bn.inelle, la M C5
Brunelll I• Chluae d1 Sotto
179 85
Brunello d1 Montalc1no 173 C3
179 C4
BNJn•tte1 et Planchota. lea
83C3
Brunn 25r!I C6
Brunnenhluachen 23Q 93
Brunnfald 259 E2 Ea
Brunnaraben 25" F3
Brunnleften 259 F3
Bruno OuchMe. Dom 146 F6
Bru..
.
t, Dom 137 94
Bru11onnff, lea 59 f&
Brutocao 304 E2 E3
eAZITTllll
l
401
Bru�,.
..
, leo8304
BryantFllmlly311Cl!
lucotu2QI042'8C4
Buc:hontal21
1
Dl
l
Buehhoim � D4
Buckel Family 3:18 M
Bucuro'b 2T.l 04
Bu<l-ot 2e3113
Budoahoim 231 D1
lludouahu 317 II&
Buduro
o
aco2T.lD6
llu• 123 C3
Buohior 311 C4
Buono Vl1la 30l
l
D3
Bueno1 Aire• 330 E3
l!lutra 164 F2
l!luhl, l.uotrla 2l!O E4
8'lht, CHrmany 24
4
C4D4
Buhl Memoril.J Vineyard
326 B3
lluhlertol 244 D4
Bula, IH 83 C6
Buloaon 63 oe
Bulaeon Certaut, le 80 Ge
Bultonvorwochtln1 380 86
Bukk26a A&
Buland, en 70 83
BullH 188 F4
Buller 36QAe
BUndner Herrec:haft 261 86
SunneU Fam1ty Cellar 288 F6
Buro Mr,u<llC 271 D4 D5
Buri Layen 234 03
Burpo 274 ES
Buribo..
..
AhrZi
ii
G1 G2
Burp..
..
Mo
ool
233 C3 E6
Burp Family 361 02
Burso1 239 C2
Burp11 311 B3
Bura.arten, Ahr 226 E6
F6 G2
Buf'Ul
l
rten, Wachau 'JfJ7 86
2S9 El
Burllay 231 C4 233 B6
Bursozone, Ch 274 c2
Burpladt 247 C2
Burptoll 2S7 C4 C6
Bursw•1 243 Fl
Bur&Y811B5C5
BurJ& 268 f3
Burkh"'m 244 E3 245 C1 C2
Burklee Hill Vin.yards
326 85
Burn Cottop 376 D5
Burrwe1Jer 241 04
Burslnel 262 E4
Burweg 239 E4
Buschenber1257 82
BuuocoPalacoHotot217C2
Bussla 163 Da Ea
Bu..
..
Soprana 183 D3
Bussla Sottana 183 D3
Bus11•re.1a65F666C1
Buaat9re1 69 E3
Buss1•res, lu 65 F6 66 C1
Buaalay 233 C2
ButdoMont131B384
Buttallioco 167 E5
Butte.Domdola120C2
Butte. la83D506
Butteaux 79 F2 F3
Buttes. las 61 F5
Buttonwo
od
Farm321C5
Buty Winu 30
0
85
Buxy 88 F5
BuyOlwbol 285 Fa
Budu273C4C5
ByFarr 359 03
Byala 274 05
Bybhne,Ch286E4
Byonston 317 C2
Byron 320 E3
S.
.
noc 266 Ga
CaMan:ando 17S 85
Cabaue.Domdo13785
Cabeza Gorda 205 A2
Cobozudo 205 Bl
Cabido$,Chdo115Ft
Cabot
to.
Domla135B2
Cabr!Wo38a06
Cal>rlores 142 E3
Cab�a, Ch 139 C3
Cal>rol,Dom140B6
tatakkroljovo 267 F5
Cacc'e Mmitte d' Lucera
182 A3
CM:oroa, MarquM do
1898182
coc._i3340633
3
E5
Cochin 192 G3
�tta 30
0
86
Cldoa11113
CodYlac85E4101E2
C'-l
lz
181
1
F2
CodUC9UOCollora326B3
Cody,Dom118Ct
CHkJm 340 C2
Carayoto 331
1
C5
Cqloari 186 D5
Cquoloup, Dom du 148 03

402
GAZETTEER
Callie, la 131 C3
Cal
l
lM,..,le87113
Calllet'et0.0.uo81F3
�.on51
1
F6 llOFi81F4
caillerot, le llO F3
COlllerle, la 121 82
Callleo, lea 84 F3
Callllt
tos,
leo 83 03
Calllo<J, Clo1 du137 E2139 C4
Callloux, le&, SorgUH 137 G2
Cail
lou
•, le&, Chdtoauneuf.du·
PQpe139 ES
Cam311 C2
Calr281E6
C&Aranne 135 83 137 B3
Cakobr9ad 314 E4
t;:al 285 G3
Calabret
ta.
S.c1!)< 185 A4
eai-., Calabria 182 05
Caladroy, Ch de 145 03
Calahoml199B485197C4
Calamln 252 06
Calatayud 168 0.
Ca�s a Tanho 210 Fi F2
Cak;1n11e le 177 E1
Caldaro 165 C3
CakSerara Sot
ta
na 185 A4
Caledonia 359 05
Calera 317 E4
Calera Vineyards 317 E4
Cahfom11 290 Cl
California Shenandoah Valley
318 83 C385
Calina 335 E3
ca1mpsta 340 05
Cahsaanne, Ch 148 84
Galisse, Ch la 147 82
Calistoga 311 A1 311 03
Calrtorro33406
Calltzdorp 379 FS
callelhan Vonoyards 328 83
Callaway 328 82
Calle- Juella 205 Al
CalmMI I. JoHph 141 C1
Calouft 66 82
Calvet Thunev1n. Dom 145 02
Calyptra 334 C5
Cajzad1lla 188 ES
Clmarado Lobos 221 02
Cambas 283 F3
Camberley 383 04
Cambria 320 E3
Camden 345 El
Camel Valley 249 G1
Cameron 297 03
Camilo Castillo 197 C4 C6
Cam1n Larredya 115 G1
Cam1nade, Ch la 115 C6
Cam1ndof, Cruzado& 217 84
t;:omllb.. 285 F3
Camou, Ch 327 05
Campanha 330 E8
Campbollo 35� A6
Campi di Fonterenza 179 05
Campi Fle1re1 182 82
Campo &Jla Sughoro 175 85
Compo de Borja 188 0.
Campo de la Guardia 188 E6
Campo de kJs Andes 340F1
Campod•Sano176A5
Campo Ehseo 1"6 G5
Campolar10 217 82
CamPot de C1m1 da S.rr1
33008
Campot1nto 332 F1
Campu1ot, de 135 E1
Can R•fo11 d.it Caoa 201 E4
Conun Eototo 386 03
t;:anakkale 286 F3
Canahc
c
hto di Sopra 179 86
Canav••• 167 03 E3
Canberra 346 Fl
Canberra Olstr.ct 34
4
E6
Candido 192 Be
Cw 2011 FS
Canot Val otto 141 A4
Calleto 330 83
Canoy387114
Can"'9,lallOG1
Cannelhno di Frucat1
173 F3 F4
Canneto 180 C3
�annonau di sardesna
Claoolco lie C6 C8
Cannubi 1e3 03
Cannub1 801eh!e 183 03
..
..
.
ann1.1bl Mu.utel 183 02 03
Cannub1 San Lorenzo 183 02
Can
nu
bl Valletta 1&3 03
canoe ,..tct
te
Gramercy
C•lar1 JO
O
1M
ea.-flldlOVineyard2'18G6
Canor1uoChle136E4
�Al'IOY&, .SarOClt'NCO lfl• CO
�nc:wa. •arolo lft3 96
�!liOIC4217C' C2
r_,.tale 112 M
�nee.ave .o-opllaC2
..
..
.
anttnacMIlarone11316
&ntJnad.iNota10112IM
"""""dolr.-.
.
rno112•3
C.ntina GaHura lie A&
c.nti.
..
IIVia18885197G4
cantlna San Donacl 182 Be
CAntlna Santedl 118 05
Canti.
.
.Soc.SanMlcti.lo
"PPleno 1e7 05
Cantlna Soclale Colterenzlo
187 06
cantlna Soclale Girlan 187 06
Cant1na Soclal• Terlano
187 C5
Canttna Te rt"
"M
no Hofltitter
187 E5
Cantlne Astronl 182 82.
Cantine dell'Anplo 183 A5
capofon1·01s6, 202 05
COpo1&379 F2
Capalot 183 82
caponna 179 85
Caparzo 179 85
capo..
..
..
Illas 379 G3
Cape S.rnier 366 F3
capo Montello 349 F8
capoPoont379G1G2
cape South Cout 379 G4 G5
capo Town 379 F2
Capel Vale 347 E2
Caperca1llle 365 05
Capk:
:
hera 186 A5
Capoon, Dom 142 0.
Capmartin, Dom 115 F2
Capofaro 184 05
Cappelh Ranch 318 86
Capn 182 B2
Caprock 326 85
Capucms, Cloe des 127 82
Caradtiux, en 63 83 84
Carqullhos. Ch 141 02
Caramany 145 02
Carutelec Winery 273 82
Carbunup 349 06
Col'CaYt
llo
o
20803215030.
�H,lo59F5
cardinal Point 323 F3 G3
Carchnale 314 F5
Card1nham Estate 353 C1
Carelle-llOUI le Chapelle 81 F4
CarellH O.Ssous 61 F4
Carema 157 03
Carpsac
c
hi320F2
Cananano del Sulcls
188E4E5
Carmae340B3
Cariftena 188 04
Cannus 38302
Carlon,Ch368A3
Carlton Studio 297 C3
Carmel 287 05
Carmel Valley 317 F3
C1Nnelo Rodero 1Q6 83
Carmen 334 C4
Carmen Stevana 383 E1
Carmlsnano 173 A3
Carm1m 219 F5
Carmody McKnllht 320 Al
Cal"'Ml"OS Lake Vineyard
309E4311G5
Carnuntum 255 G6
caro3408283
Carol Sti.lton 307 E6
Carou•oot 88 C6
Carquofou 118 83
Carra1a. Az Vin la 181 F4
Carran, en 61 81
Carrucal 204 C8 205 86
Carrau 332 G3
Carr4 Rou-ud, le 88 C8
C•rrera.I•:MO06
Carrff, IH e7 Cl
Carrick 375 06
Carrl•rea, IH, Ladolx e3 C6
Carn•re•. '91, Chamboll•
Mu•/gny 85 F6
Carao 1e5 06
Carta Vloja 336 E3
Carter Cellart 311 A.1
cartuxa 213 E4
Cary Potat, Ch do 86 F6 GS
cao 8atllot 202 C4
C&N lltanchl 340 E1
CON Colonlal 33S F4
C&N d'Ambra 182 1!12
Cu1 da lnoua 217 1111
ca.
.
da Pa11arola 217 C6
Cua do M•uru 217 113
CON de F'ledra 327 F4
CaudeSalmo217112
CaudoS.ntar217114
C.INdeUo
o
340El
CaudoVinurlCotnarl27314
Cau do1 1Mlnc<> 111Ell
CuadoCapltAoMor2oaG2
ca.
.
Dono
o
o336E3
Cua Emma 1n E3
CuaGrandol$lurarMI20204
ca.. Lapo
otol
le334oe
(;uoLarp32&A�84
C.:ua M11M1 327 E15
�ua Mqulla 199 F2
..
..
.
asa MaMn 334 E3
raH NUHtra 31JE4
Cua PatronalH 336 09
Cau P.rlnl 331 F5
Cua l'lolvu 21 a E5
CaHRlvu33404
Caoa Rondo�• 328 B4
CaH Santos Lima 2'16 84
Caaa Silva 334 06
CON \laldup 331 F4
C.
.
ablanca 334 E3 33
3
05
Casal de Arm'n 192 G2
Cual de Lolvoa 210 ES
CualStaMll'l
ll
215 03
caaa1o1to in o.
Cualte, la 180 C4
Caaanuova dell• Cerbal•
17a 85
Cuanuova di Neri 179 B&
CUar d• 8urbla 192 F4
Caaarena 340 C2
Cuaa del Bosque 334 E3
Ca.u.vecchla di Pontelatone
182 "2
Casca.da1a, Ch 141 02
CHC&WI, Dom de 135 04
Cue BuH 179 C4
Caae Nere 163 02
Casey Flat Ranch 303 83
Casot 161 E2
C..Otdee Mailloles 145 F6
Cusan. Dom de 137 C5
Cuse-T6tes, les 8l Fl
Cuseru.u, le 121 A4
Cassi6re, la 59 E2 E3
c'.:ut& 266 G4
Casta de Vinos 327 E4
Castqna 359 A8
Cutqnoll 1n E3
Castel del Monte 182 A4
Cutel del Monte Nero d1
Tro111 R1serva 182 AS
C..tol Noarna 188 E4
Castel Sall•u 187 os
C..tel dom du 287 F5
C.
.
tolborl 245 02
Cast•ll'OCOndO 179 C4
cu,.11 247 C5
Castell in Villa 177 G6
Cutell•da, I• 171 De
caoto1
1e
r18503
C..tollero 163 03
Cutolh347G3G4
CuteUI Romani 173 F3
CasteU1nuzza • Piuca 177 04
Cuo.!lo Bani\ 179 04
Castello d'Albola in E4
Cut•lo del Rampolla 177 E4
Cutello d•ll• Pane ret
ta
in e3
Castello della Sala 181 F4
CuteUo d1 Ama 177 F.4
Cutollo di BorcMN 324 E1
CUtello d1 Brollo 177 F5
Cutello dt Conti 158 F3
Cutello di Fonterutoll
1n F4
Castello d1 N1pozzano 177 A6
Cutello di Qu•rc•to 177 04
Cutollo di Volpala 177 E4
Castello Monac1 182 Be
eut.11oVlc
c
hfomoUIOmo.
Cutelm1ure Co·op 1'41 E3
C..tolo do Medina 198 G5
Cutere, Dom 116 F1
cu..ts, 100 8002
CO.t:J&llono Fallet
to
183C3C4
ca1tl1no, Ch 141 82
Cutllla188 E4
CutlllayLe6n188C3
C..tlllo de Monjardln 1a7 114
C..tlllo Viejo 332 G3
Cutll Rock 347 F4
Cutoro Collari 320 112
Cutra Rubra274 E-4
Cutrlllo do la Vap 196 C4
Cutro Vento11 1Q2 F4
Cataldo, A Vita 182 06
Catamerca 330 o.c
Catena Zapat.t. 340 C2
Cathedral Ridp 29S C3
Catherine & Pler-N Breton
120 C3 C4
Catherine Marshall 313 F3
Cattunar 271 Al
Couh•"'· Dom 11S G1
CauJoll• Qazet, Dom 1<42 C3
Cluaent 277 Al A2
Cau11e MarinH, Dom de
1111 05
Cautln 333 GS
Cavallero 186 C3
Cavalli 313 E3
Cavu Sol y ..rro 327 £4
Cavu Volmar 327 G4
CoveAnnodoJoyouM14006
cavel!IEotato2a8Ill
Cave Co� leilevuo 89 F4
Caw Co cp, Lea V�ux
COlombMtra &a E3
ea.
.
d'Oc
c
l11
11
1
cs
Cav• • Fleurlti 74 Cl5
C.ve de rOrml/'lne 142 F3
Cave de l'ttollo 146 Fe
cave do Monbulflac 113 Eli
Ca\19 d• Roquebrun 141 A�
Cave d11 Vicnerone de Buxy
68 G4
Cava du Raffo 140 OS
Cave du Sleur d'ArquH
14008
Cave Jean - Loul1 Lafage
146 03
Cave Koroum 286 G4
Cava la Malo"'ro 140 C8
cave Sprln1293 F4
Cave, la 81 E4
Caveau 8u11at• 152 84
CavH JHn Bourdy 151 E4
Cav•• Mo11lu 217 C2
CavH Primavera 217 82
Caves Slo Jolo 217 82
C&ymus 314 E4
Cayron, Dom du 137 C5
CO¥Ull Lake 32e 85
cayuso 300 85
Cuabon, Dom de 141 C1
CazaJ Viel, Ch 141 A4
Cazenauve, Ch de 142 C5
Cazenove, Dom de 145 E4
Cazes Dom 145 04
Cazet1ers, lea 615 85
Celgo Vinegarden 304 ES
Coib•no Dom do 142 E2
Cechy, 8oti.mia 266 E2 F2
Cedar Creek 292 FS
Cedar Mountain 317 A3
Cedarville 318 88
Coderberc 379 02 03
COdro, Ch du 116 C4
C�rH dom des 286 E6
CeJa 309 05 311 G5
Celetros 210 CS
Celllo Vineyard 296 C4
Colld6m61k 283 82
Celler de Ca�anes 202 E4
CeUer de l'Encastell 202 CS
Caller Eacoda Sanahuja
201 E2
Cellars Can Blau 202 E3
C.lll•r dH Cray 152 C5
Cem..
.
des Temphers 145 F6
Celher du Mu Montet 142 C6
Cenan, en 70 ES
Cent V11nea , lea 62 C6
Cente1lles, Clos 141 82
Centopus1 184 E3
Central Anatoha 285 F4 G4
Central Cout 303 E4 317 A3
Central Cout Wine Services
320 E3
Central Hawke's Bay 369 C4
Centro 340 82 05
Ceraauolo d'Abruzzo
173 F5 G5
Cerasuolo d1 Vittoria
184G4G5
Corattl 163 06
Cerbalola 179 C5
Cerbaiona 179 ce
Core"730574F4
Cercue1l1. lea e& C4
Cordon 152 A4
Cerequio 1e3 02
Corhov 288 G8
cerona 85 E4
Cerretta 163 C6
Cerro de Santlqo 205 C5
Cerro Polado 205 81 C1
Cervaljevo 2e7 F6
Corvetorl 173 E3
C.rvoloo 201 E1
Cooanooo del Pllllo 173 F4
112 A1
c•..,
,_
... di Am11 113 F4
CHane11 di Olevano Romano
173 F4
caoooru, Ch do 141 83
Co01noclc 341
1
0238S04
Chennea 63 F4
Chab10t1, loo 85 F4
Chablalo 251 C2 2S3 F2
Chabalufa, IH &I F4
Chacewater 304 E&
Cti.troto, loo es F6 88 82
ChOl
llO
ts. Cloo doo 83 05
Ch..nota, IH 63 06
Cha11not1, &u.M e4 Fe
Challloo 117 82
Challloto, leo 83 C4 C5
Cha.l
l
loux, aux 70 �
Chain of Pondo 388 All
Chain.. Cartoaux 84 P3
Chainey, lo !la 02
ChalnW5liFii89G470Fii
Chalandlno, loo ee G3
C�aliots, leo 84 F4 G4
Chalk Hill, Au1tttallo 3&
&
04
Chalk Hiii, caufbm1a so1 oe
Chalrnoro Vineyard 361
1
114
Chalone 317 F6
Chalono Vineyard 317 F6
' halonn•• aur �,.
.
ne..
.
C t'lalurneau.x, le.I 80 F•
Chaman 3'40 F2
Chapltre, 11 121 C4 C6
Be:aus•1our HAr1t1P.N
Chamber8 Roaewood
Ch-nnlms, 111 81 F6
Ouffau -Lagarrosse 111 E3
aaa Ae
Chapoutlor, M 369114
B6gadanet 89 CJ
Chambortln ee 113 C3
Chappollot 3'11 C5
Bel A1,. 91 E5
Chambertln Clo1 de B•ze
Charbonn"re, Dom de la
Bel Orme Tronquoy de
86 84
139 E3E4
Lalande 91 C4
Chambollo-Mu111ny 5S C8 es Charbonnl•rea, lea 84 F2
8el·A1r 107 A3 CA
F665E4
Chard Farm 375 04
8el-A1r, de 109 83
ChambratH 123 83 B4
Chardannea, IH 65 F6
Bel -Air Ma.rq uts- d Aligre
Chambroo, IH eo G2
Chardonn"I' 69 8e
99 61
Chamory 83 83
Chardonne 263 El
Be.lair- Monange 111 F3
Cti.mfort, Dom 137 C5
Chardonnereux, !es 82 03
Belgrave 95 F3
Chamiroy, do 88 C5
Chareau, Cloo ea F4
Belle- Vue 99 E5
Chamloal 320 C2
Charentaie 63 E2
Bellefont Seider 111 F5
Chamhja 286 E3
Charontay 73 05 74 G4
Bellegr>ave. Pautllo.c 93 ES
Chamonlx 383 oe
Charlemean•. en 63 84
Beltegrave, Pomerol 109 02
Chamo1on 263 G2
Charlomqno, le 63 B4
Belles Graves 109 C5
Champ 88 8e
Charles B Mltchell Vineyards
Belle�ue, Northern Medoc
Champ Canot 80 F4
318 88
89 A2
Champ Croyon 80 G4
Charlea Clm1eky 361 03
Bellevue, Str£m1!1on 111 E2
Champ d Orph'9, lo 115 De
CharlH Fox 384 E4
Bellevue. de 107 83
Champ Dem•,.
.
80 G2
Chal"lea Heintz 307 E4
Bellevue de Tayaa 97 GS
Champ Divin 151 G4
Charles Joauot 120 GS
Bellevue Mondotte 111 FS
Champ Gain 60 F4
CharlH Krus 313 F4
Berhquet 111 E3
Champ Roux, en 70 C4
Charles Melton 351 04
Bernadotte 93 C3 03
Champ Salomon, au 67 B3
Charlottesville 323 F4
Bertinea.u St Vincent 107 B1
Champ Tirant 60 01
Charm• 210 ES
Beychevetle 95 G5 97 A4
ChamP91"e do Savlll"Y 82 Ce
Charme aux Pr6tres , la 67 64 81ac 100 C6
Champagne Haut, la 67 85 C6 Charmes Oessous , les
Brenfaisance, ta 107 02
Champalou, Dom 121 83
59E1E2
81 ston Br1llette 97 G3
Champans, en 61 F4
Charmes Oassu1. Jes, 59 01
Bla1gnan 89 E4
Champeaux 86 86
Charmes -Chambertln 66C3 BJanzac 107 E4
Champ•rrter du Bas 66 C6
Charmes Douous, los. 80 G5
Bon Pasteur le 109 06 111 Al
Champerner du Dessus
Charmea -Oessus, les. 60 G5
Bonatgue 109 E2
66 85
Charmes, aux 66 C2
Bonneau 107 C3
Champforey 87 C4
Charmes, Ch des 293 F5
Bonnet 101 83
Champlll"Y 116 C6 119 FS
Charmes, las Gevrey-
Boscq le 91 04
Champlllon 83 03
Chamberttn 65 F5
Bou11!erot, Dom de 101 ES
Chempm, le 131 A4
Charmes, les. Meursault
Bourd1eu Vertheu1I, le 91 F2
Champlain Valley of New York
80G5
Bourd1eu, I� 89 82
324 E4
Charmola, I• 60 F2
Bourgelat , Clos 101 El
Champlota, les 60 E3
Cha.rmots les 64 FS
Bourgueneu� de 109 03
Champonnet 66 86
Charmots, les 62 C1
Bournac 89 03
Champoux Vineyard 298 G5
Charmot
t
e. la64F6
Bouscaut 1 03 E5
Champs Chardons, IWI< 83 C2 Charmotte, la Petite 64 F6
Boyd Can-tenac 99 C4
Champs Chenys 66 C3
Charnay-"s MA.con 69 F4
Branatre Ducru 95 F5 97 A4
Champs Claude, leo 59 G4 GS Charnl6rn, le& 83 82
Branas Grand PouJeaux 97 F4
ChampsdOr,lea38
8
A3
Charon, le 67 C3
Brande ta 107 ES
ChampsdeCns, leo123C4C5 Charreux 68C5
Brane Cantenac 99 C3
Champs de Morjot 59 G5
Charrh\res les,
Branon 103 F3
Champa dti Vosger en C1 C2
Chossagne·Montrachet
Brehat 107 E3
Champs des Ares 67 C2
80 G2
Breui� du 91 GS
Champs d• Charmes, lea
Charrt•res, les,
Brr dane, la 95 ES
87 C1
Morey St-Dents 66 C2
BrrUette 97 G3
Champ.a dee Prunlers aux
Char
ro
n,en5903
BrondeUe 101 G2
83 C2
Charter Oak 313 F5
Broustet 105 03
Champs Fulhot, lea 61 F3
Charvln, Dom 137 El
Brown 103 03
ChampsGain,leo59F880G1 Ch&ssqno59F860F2
Cabanne, la 109 04
Champs Goud1ns 86 G2
Chusq:ne du Cloe St Jean
Cadet-Bon 111 04
Champs Jandreau 59 F6
60 F1
Ca1llou 105 82
Champs Pennebaut 67 82
Chuaqne-Montrachet 55
Calon 107 82
Champs Perdrlx 67 82
D5 59 F5 80G1
Calon-S8gur 91 05
Champs Perdr1x aux .
Chasaelos 89 G3 70 03
Cambon la Petouse 99 ES
Nu1ts-St Georges 64 F6
Chuselas, Ch de 70 03
Camensac 9S F3
Champs Perdrlx, aux,
Chlta1ns 79 F3
Canon 111 E3
Voane RomaMe 65 F2
ChA.teau -Chalon 151 E4
Canon - la GaffeilAre 111 F3
Champa Perr1ers les 88 C6
Chlt..u-Grlllet 129 A.2 131 02
CantegrLI lOS 82
Chomp1 Plmont 82 C3
Chlteaumelllant 53 03
Cantegr1ve 107 CS
Champs Plmonte 62 C4
Chlteauneuf du Pape 13S C2 Cantelys 103 G4
Champs Raml'Ms. les 83 05
137 F2 139 E3
Cantemerle 99 ES
Champs Ronda, les 61 E3
Cantenac Brown 99 C2
Champa Tlons, les 67 Cl
CHATEAUX OF BORDEAUX
Canttn 107 03
Champs Travers1ns. lea 86 F3 Agassac, d 99 G6
Cap de FaugOres 107 E4
Champt, en 66 86
A1gu1lhe, d ' 107 CS
Cap ·do Mourlln 111 C4
Champs, H 60 03
Amp6ta1 107 04
Capbern Gasquaton 91 05
Ch11mptoceaux 116 83
Andron Blanquet 91 F4
Carbonnleux 103 E4
Champy, en 6784
Aney 97 C5
Cardonne, la 89 E3
Chancololro
o
210 F4
Angtirus 111 E'2 105 E2
Carles da 106 84
Chandon 340 C2 C3
Angludet, d · 99 03
Carmes Haut Brion, les
Chandon, Dom 390 C3
Annereaux . des 106 86 109 A2
103 A2
Ch&nHeaG470F4F573ee
Anthonlc 97 F3
Caronne Stfi" Gemme97 l32
Ch&nlYU 388 04
Archambeau, d' 101 Fl
Carsln 101 01
Chanl)'u Golden lcew1ne
Arche, d ' 105 F2
Carteau C6tes D.tugay 111 F2
Valley 388 A8
Arclns, d' 97 FS
CaHaane Haut -Canon 106 C4
Chan1Yu ·Cutol Ch 388 F5
Ardennf>s, d ' 100 F6
C.astelol ltt 107 (1
Chanl)'U, Ch, XlnJ/anQ 368 A4
A rga.dons 101 E4
Cut8ra 89 F3
Chanl)'u, Ch, Ntngxla 390 84 Armailhac, d 93 85
Cause, du 10/ 02
Ch&n1•ro. la 81 Ell 62 82
ArrnaJan -des·Ormtts, d '
Corona, de 101 fl
Chanlot, au 60 F4
105 C4
Certan de May 109 05
Chanlln 81 E6
Arnauld 97 f5
Charnbart Marbuiet 91 F ti
Chenllna-Bu. I•• e"I E6
Ausone 111 E4 105 £3
Charnbrur' de 107 Cl
Chanhna· Hautl, lea &1 ES
Balestord 101 A2
<.-h n<:loll!Oro, la 89 03
Chlnmorl1 387 1!915
Salestard la 'T onncJle 111 05
C-hantegrive, dt; 101 01
Channl"I Daulht•ra 324 F2
Ba1 t>e Glanche, de 10 r 83
C'hant aly• 89 £.2
Chanaon 131 E2
Barde Haut 107 02 111 E&
Chantsn"• 107 L2
Chant& CliaJo, Dom 139 E3
B•rd1ns 10306
Chi/"01111 91 C4
Chant• Pardrl•. Dom 1:ia G4 Barot 103 C4
( halH SplPen l.J7 f4'
Chaniy, Dom 151 A6
Oarr ab.
.
qu(I lOR C4
Chll
lf
elttt !'-' 1�1 E
Chapadmalal 330 E6
Oar1'ft)'re& 91 l f3
Cll1;to,
,1
,,11n 111 C2
Chapel Down 241
1
G6
Sut1ennft, ta 107 C2
Che.rt:hy Cor,'lrnarque 1U G)
Chapel Hiii 3118 C4 C6
llastor l amlmtagntt 106 U3
lllu"•ISl•nc111A11Q9I6
Chopol, Dom 74 03
Botarltey 9 f.4
112 02
Chapolle rEncloo 111 F2
8aur:fu<: 101 Al
C11 ft
j
. t(,·
Chapollo l'Encloo, la 116 �2
fleau 1our f30cot 11E3
C1tr1ul T Q4
Chapollo-Chamborttn ee C3
an•.., te9l D4
ciau '4l89�
Ch-Uo-do Gulncti.y, la
Ba ttf! Ha•rt. V1gntiblQ
aI"'
'3 1!1
91 01
Chopolle our £rdro le
e.. yn"r tl:hOI
118 !12
Stzurtrdc:.
.
4
Chapoiot 79 E6
euvniW'd Due ' .
Chapltro,Clotdu88ll687111
,,

�c.,
,
nn11nctt1· �. la St fstspfJe
91 F4
{':on e•ll'lnte. fa109 f8 1 10 BE!
(.
.
orLln 101 C '.
.2
111 87
Corl.nr1 Ml• hotttt 111 87
:Cci1 d•·l'-h f:h•&•"' 93 E. &
Co$ d E•tourn�l 91 G5 93 A5
Coa Labory QI G5 9l A4
C6te de Baltau 111 03
C6te Moritpeut 107 E-.4
Couey 101 CJ
(()Of nn 91 64
Couh1n1 10'.'i E5
<.;ouh�n1 Lurton 103 f 4
Courlat. du 107 B3
Cou&paudo, la 111 E 4
Coustolle 106 84
Coutelln Mer"Y1tle 91 F3
Coutet 106 B3
Cre.bltan Bellevua 101 E2
Crob1tey 100 06
Crock le91F5
Crone de Labrie 107 03
Croll( St Andre. la 107 Bl
Croix St Georges, la109 E4
CroP< TaU/efor. la. 109 F3
Croix BeauS8Jour. la 107 C2
Croix de -Gay, la 109 05
Croix du Casse. la 109 F3
Croix. la 109 E4
Cro1zet Sages 93 05
Croque Mrchotte 111 Al 109 E6
Cros. du 101 E2
Cruzeau 106 05
Cruz.eau, d� 100 04
Cruzelles. les 109 84
Oalam 106 B4
Dassault 111 CS
Oauph1ne Rond1llon 101 E2
Dauphme, de la 106 C4
Oauzac 99 05
Oesm1rail 99 C4
Oest1eux 107 E3
Dayrem-Valent1n 99 A2
Do1sy Daene 105 B2
Do1sy Vedr1 nes 105 C3
Domeyne 91 05
Dom1n1Que, la 111 B1 109 ES
Doyenne le100CS
Ducru Beauca11/ou 95 GS
Dudon 105 83
Duhart-Mtlon Rothschild
938491G4
Durand-Laplagne 1 07 C4
Ourfort-V1vens 99 83
Dut r uch Grand Poujeaux
97 F4
Eghse Clmet, I' 109 04
Encios r 109 C2 C3
Escurac d 89 02
Eva.nglle. I' 109 ES 111 A1
Fa1z.eau 10782
Fargues, de 105 F4
Faugeres 107 E4
Faur1e d e Souchard 111 05
Fayau 101 E2
Ferran 103G6
Ferrand 109 F3
Ferrand Lartigue 107 El
Ferrand de 107 E3
Ferrande 100 06
Ferr1ere 99 83
Feyt1t-Chnet 109 04
F1euzal, de 103 G3
F1geac 111 Cl
F1lhot 105 G2
Fleur de Bouard la 107 81
Fleur Ce Jaugue. la106 C6
Fleur Morange la 107 £3
Fleiu.- Cardinale 107 03
Fleur-P�trvs 1, la 109 05
Fleur Petrus 2, fa 109 05
Fleur Petrus 3 , la 109 £4
Fleur ta 111 C5
Flortd•ne, Clos 101 Fl
Fombrauge 107 03
Fonbadet 93 E6
Fongaban 107 C4
Fonplegade 111 F3
Fonreaud 97 Gl
Fcinroci:ue 111 03
Fontein11 106 84
Font.eo11!0, .de 101 81
Font1s 89 E3
Foug&res dos100D4
FoUJ"l(;U Dupre 97 E2
Fou n:
:
a.a Ho&t.Pn 97 �2
Fourcas Bor1e 97 F2
fourc-u· Loubaney 97 f2
Franc Mayne 111 02
Franc Maillet 111 A2109 06
r ance oe10'3G2
,,.
.
,_ .. 0181
C..tl"rydi.I10(.A
c:..�"�""1•1l1f l
l,"1J\ard 107 f]
G•rda, I• 103 G6
Gar r1\1d IU7 01
G-.udel 111 f4
Gaudin 93 l:.O
C.ay le 109o�
Ga.t:m 109 D
Guin R0c-quencourt 103 F2
G1tette 106 C.4
Girolat• 101 B3
G1ronv1Ue. dt 99 F &
GJ(.(;Ollrs g9 04
Giana du 91'.> F6
Gloria 95F5
Gombaudo - Gu1llot 109 04
Goree, la 89 04
Grano Barra1I La marze l le
F1e:eac 111 Cl
Grand Corbi n 111 63
Grand Enclos du ChAt€au de
C$rons 101 Et
Grand Mayne 111 02
Grand Ormeau 109 85
Grand Renouil 106 C4
Grand Verdus, le iOO 86
Grand Bos du 100 05
Grand CQrbin Despagne
111 82
Grand Moubys 101 C1
Grand Pontet 1 1 1 03
Grand Puy Ducasse 93 06
Gra n d Puy-Lacoste 93 04
Grandes Mura1lles 1 1 1 £3
Grandes V1gnes, des 105 C4
Grand1s 91 C4
Grands Chimes les 89 C5
Grange Neuve, de 109 03
Gravas 105 62
Grave a Pomerol la 109 C4
Grave F1geac, la 1 09 ES110 86
Grave. la106C4
Gravet 107 E1
Grentere, de la 107 A3
Gress1er Grand PouJeaux
97 F4
Greysac 89 84
Gr1Hon 105 C3
Gr1v1ere 89 E3
Gruaud Larose 96 G4 97 A4
Gueyrosse 106 06
Guibot- le-Fourv1e111e 107 84
Guillot Clauzel 109 03
Gu1raud 105 F2
Gu1teronde du Hayot 105 82
Gurg ue. la 99 83
Hantetllan 91 F3
Haura 101 El
Haut Rian 101 01
Haut Sages Liberal 93 ES
H aut· Bages Monpelou 93 04
Haut-Baclty 103 F4
Haut- Bata1lley 93 F4 87 E3
Haut- BeauseJOu r 91 ES
Haut- Bergeron 1 05 03
Haut- Bergey 103 F2
Haut - Bernat 107 C4
Haut Breton Lar1gaud1ere
99A197G6
Haut-Brion 103A2
H au t Cha1gneau 107 Bl
Haut ClaverJe 105 G4
Haut Cond1ssas 89 83
Haut· Lagrange 103 G4
Haut-Mad rac 93 E3
Haut Maillet 111 A2 109 D6
Haut Marbuzet 91 F5
Haut· N ouchet 103 GS
Haut Sarpe 107 02
Haut Segottes 111 C2
Haut · Selve 100 05
Haut Tropchaud 109 04
Hauti -Con se1Uants. les 107 C1
Haux, de 101 Cl
Haye. la 91 F4
Hosanna 109 05
Ho.Spttal, de 1· 10006
Hourtm Ouca�e 93 03
lssan d 99 83
Jacques Blane 107 E3
Jean Faure 111 81
Jean Gu9 109 A4
Jean Vo1s1n 111 83
Jean Blanc 107 F3
Jean Clos 101 E2
Joan!n Becot 107 C6
Juge. du101 E2
Justices. tes 105 C4
K<rwan 99 C1
Labea:orce gg 02
Laborde 106 66
Lafaur1e Peyragu€y 105 f2
L affttt.e Carcac;set 91 f 4
Laflt• Rothschild 03 A5 91 G5
Lafleur 109 05
Lafleur du Roy la 109 [ 4
Lafleur Gu1n 109 05
Lafo•'lAo<ht!lt91G493A4
Lafon 105 f3
l t nn«9, Porn•rol 109 04
l•RrAnge St .Ju!,.n 95 F'l
Laavne, 1• qq F5
t 11.1a.ncle Bor�• 9� FD
lamarqua . dP 91 05
Lamoth• 100 G2
Larnot he de Hau"l< 101 Cl
larnothe Gu1gn,.rd 105 G2
Lamot htr Beq �eron E-17 Ct>
L amot he- C1uac 91 G2
Lamothe V1c.ent 101 Cl
l.amouret te 105 E1
Landereau, de 1 01 81
Lanessen 97 83 95 G4
I angl1'.de 107 C3
L anaoa Barton 95 F5
Lan iota 111 o·�
Larc1s Ducaas'" 111 F5
Larmande 111 C4
L•roque 107 03
Larose Tr1ntaudon 95 E3
Lar<JZB 111 02
Larrwaux 91 G3
Larr1Vet Hau t Brion 103 F4
La.scombes 99 82
Lassi:lgue 111 F6
Latour 93 F6 9505
Latour 8. Pomerol 109 04
Latour Mart1Ha.c 103 G6
LauJaC 89 Cl
Laurets des 107 C4
Laussac 107 E 4
Lav1lle 105 C3
Leboscq 89 CS
Lehoul 101 F3
Leov1Ue Barton 95 F5
Li>ov1lle las Cases 95 E4
Leov1 lle Poyferre 95 ES
Lescours 107 El
Lespult Martillac 103 G5
Lestage Simon 91 B4
Lestage, Medoc 97 F2
Lestage. Montagne St
Em1f1on 107 03
Les truel le 89 E6
Lezongars 101 Dt
L1euJ an 93 02
Lilian Ladouys 91 F4
L1ot 105 C2
L1sse de 107 E3
L1versan 93 C2
L1vran B9 G3
Loubens 101 F2
LoudennP 89 E6 91 A4
Loup1ac - Gaud1e t 101 E2
Lousteau neuf 89 B2
Louviere. la 103 E4
Lucas 107 83
Lucia 107 E2
Lunelles, Clos107 E 4
Lussac 107 83
Lusseau 107 E1
Lynch- Bages 93 05
Lync h · Moussas 93 E3
Lyonnat 107 84
Macqurn-St Georges 107 C2
Magence 101 F3
Magneau 100 04
Maison Blanche 107 C2
Malangm 107 04
MalaM:1c Lagravlere 1 03 F3
Malescasse 97 ES
Matescot St Exupery 9983
Malle, de 10504
Malleret , de 99 G4
Malrome 101 E3
Mangot 107 E4
Marbuzet. de 91 F5
Margaux 99 63
MarJOSSe 101 A3
Maroja111a 99 E 2
Marquis d Alesme 99 63
Marquis de Te rme 99 B2
Marsac Segulneau 99 A2
Martrnen s 99 C2
Martinet 106 06
Marzel!e, la 1 1 1 C1
Mauca1Uou 97 E4
Maucamps 99 E6
Mauras 1 05 E2
Maurens 1 07 E3
Mayne Blanc 107 A3
Mayne Viell 106A4
Mayne, du 10503
Mayne, du, BarSl
l
c10583
Mayne, le 107 C4
Mazer1s 106 C4
Mazeyres 109 02
Memoires 101 F2
M6nota 105 83
Meyney 91 E5
Meynleu, re 91 E2
Miiia Roses 99 C4
M1&s1on Haul Brron . la 103 A3
Monbadon ds 107 C5
Monbousquet 107 El
Monbr1&un 99 E?
Mongra\lfl'Y 99 E2
Mont du101 l:.>
Monta1gu1llon lOT C2
Montlandn• 107 E<4
Montrosfl 01 F �
Mont111e\ IQ<) 03
MCJr*m fD4
Moulin de 1a Ao1e 95F�97A4
Mouhn du Cadot 111 C3
Moulin H 1 u t Lflroque 106 S-4
Mouhn Pey Labrie 108 C4
Mouhn A.c.ht!I 95 (3
Moulin Aoug•, du 97 C4
Moul!n St-Georgu 111 F4
Moulin-ft Vent97 GI
Moullnet 109 C3
Moulms d• Calon 107 C2
Mouton Aolh$ch1ld 93 85
Mussat 107 C3
Myrat 105 82
Nrurac 106 A3
Nard1que la Gra"Yihre 101 81
Negr1t 107C2
Nenin 109 E4
N oble. Dom du 101 E2
Ohvler 103 E3
Ormes de Pez, lH 91 E4
Ormes Sorbet, les 89 04
Palmer 99 83
Paroumey 99 F5
Pape Clement 103 A1
Pape. le 103 F4
Papeter1a, In 107 Cl
Paradis, du �07 F2
Patache dAux 89 C3
Pa..
.
e1I de Luza 97 G5
Pavle 105 f3 111 F4
Pav1e Macquln m E4
Pav 1 e D6cesse 111 F4
Pav 1tlon 101 E2
Pavttlon Blanc 99 CI
Peby Faugeres 1 07 E4
Pedesclaux 93 85
Pelllon- Cla"Yer1e 105 G4
Pernaud 105 C3
Perron 106 86 109 A4
Perruchon 107 84
Petit Bocq 91 E4
Petit Faur1e de Soutard 111 04
Pe tit Gravet 107 E1
Petit VIiiage 109 E4
Peyrabon 93 C2
Peyre Lebade 97 F3
Peyredon Lagravette 97 E3
Peyrou 107 E4
Peyroutas 107 F2
Pez de91E4
Phelan Segur 91 ES
P1ada 105 83
P1bran 93 C5
Picard 91 ES
Pichon Baron 93 E5 95 04
Pichon Longuevi lle Comtesse
de Lalande 93 ES 95 04
Pick Laborde. du 105 03
P1cque Ca11lou 103 A1
Pierre 1er 110 C6
Pm Beausoletl, le101 A4
P1ot 105 83
P1peau 107 E2
P1tray de 107 05
Plagn otte- Bellevue, l a 107 02
Plain Poi nt 106 B4
Plaisance £ntre Deux Mers
101 C1
Plaisance, Montagne St
£m1l1on 107 C1
Pl1nce 109 E3
Pointe la 109 E3
Pomys 91 F4
Pontac Lynch 99 83
Pontac Monpta�sir 103 05
Pontet Canet 93 C5
Ponto1se Cabarrus 91 C4
Portets 100 06
Potensac 89 E4
Pouget 99 C4
Pou1eaux 97 E4
Poumey 1 03 03
Poupi!le 107 E4
Pressac, de 107 E3
Preu illac 89 F2
Prleure L1ch1ne 99 C3
Pr1eur8 , le 111 E4
Prost 105 A3
Puy Ba�dens 100 C 5
Puy Castera 91 G3
Puy Gullheni 106 65
Puy, le 107 03
Qulnault l' Enc:los 100 05
Quintus 111 F2
Rabaud - Prom1 s 105 f2
Rahoul 100 06
Ramage la 8at1-.se 93 82
Rame, la 101 F2
A.aux, du 97 CS
RauzM Gass1es 99 BJ
Rau.i:ari Segla 99 C3
Raym<Jnd Lafon 105 E3
A1yne Vigneau, de 105 E2
Resri1de M 6dev llle 101 F-2
A8tO•l L, du 97 05
Rtve cl Or 109 C3
Raverdl 97 07
Peynon 101 01
A"'ysson 91 E2
Alc.
.a
ud. cle101 f2
R1Chehev 10& C4
R1eiuH� 106 F 4
Ft11Aud 107 C3
R1peau 111 82
Fh11
1
�re.dela10683
Roe de 801n8.C'� du 107 C4
Rochebelle 111 F 5
Rochemonn. de 103 G5
Rocher Corbin 107 82
Roi Valentin 111 C3
Rollan d• By 89 84
Rolland, de 105 84
Aomer l05 £4
Romer du H.a.)'Ot 106 E 4
Roquefort 101 84
Roques. dt 107 84
Roques. t�s 101 E'.2
Roudier 107 C2
Rouet 1 06 83
Rougerla 101 82
Aouget 109 C4
Roum1eu 105 C2
Roumteu Lacoste 1 05 C2
Rousselle la 106 84
Aoylland 111 E2
Roz1ar 107 E2
Ruat Petit PouJeaux. 97 G2
Sales, de 109 82
San sonnet 111 E5
Sarans ot Dupre 97 F2
Sarpe, Clos de 111 E5
Segum 100 86
Seme1Jlan Mazeau 97 F2
5er1lhan 91 E3
Serre. la 111 E4
Seu1I, du 101 El
S1aurac 107 81
S1galas Rabal.Id 105 E2
S1mon 105 B3
S1p1an 89 82
Slran 99 C5
Smith Haut Lafitte 103 F5
Soc1ando Mallet 91 CS
Soleil 107 C3
Soudars 9 I 84
Sours de 101 A2
Soutard 111 04
St Amand 105 84
St Andre Corbm 107 C3
St Estephe 91 F4
St Georges 107 C2
St George s C6ta Pav1e 111 F4
St Marc 105 A3
St Paul 91 C4
St-Pierre 9S F5 97 A4
St Robert 101 F1
Ste Gemme 97 64
Ste Marie 101 C2
Suau 8arsac 105 83
Suau £ntre Deux- Mers 101 El
Sudu1raut 105 E3
Ta1lhas du 110 CS 109 F4
Talllefer 109 F3
Talbot 95 E4
Tayac 97 G5
Temple le 89 82
Tertre Roteboeuf 111 F6
Tertre du 99 E2
Teynac 95 F4
Te yssler. Pu1ssegum St
tm1/10n 107 C3
Teyss 1er. St £m1lion 107 F2
Th1euley 101 81
Thll, le 103 E4
Tire Pe 101 F4
Toumahn 106 C4
Toum1lon "IOl F3
Tour Blanche 89 DS
Tour Blanche la 105 F2
Tour Carnet, la 95 F2
TourdeBy, la8984
Tour de Grenet 107 83
Tour de M1rambeau 101 83
Tour deMons ta97G6
Tour de 5egur, la 107 83
Tour des Termes 91 04
Tour duHaut Mouhn 9704
Tour du Mouhn 10684
Tour du Pin, la109FS 110 86
Tour �1geac, la 109 F4 110 C6
Tour Haut Caussan 8 9 E3
Tour Musset 107C3
Tour St Bonnet la89C4
Tour St Fort 91 E3
Tour St-Joseph 91 G2
Tour du Roe 97F5
Tour- Prignac, la 89 E2
Tournefeullle 107 Cl 109 C6
Tours, des 107 C3
Tout1geac 101 B2
Trapaud 107 E3
Trf'!s,ec. de 106 C3
ir1moulet 111 C5
Trols Croix. lea 106 84
Tronquoy L alMde 91 £5
Troplona Mondot 111 FS
Trotano)' 109 04
Trottev1e11le 111 E6
Tuquet, le 100 05
r'°'rcaud 101 B2
ValdOr:•Ju107f1
VAlarnJraud 10703
VHdl&nan 91 84
Vernou1 A\I r:2
Veyra¢ 107 03
VtJyry 107 [6
V•aud, dt1 109 83
Vltt1l!e Cure, 111 106 84
Vrevx Cl'liteau Certan 109 E.5
Vieux Chlttt•u Champt de
Mar• 107 C5
Vieu)( ChAteau Gaubert.
100 06
Viau)( Chlteau Landon SQ 03
Vieux Chtteau St-Andre
107 C2
V1eul( Maillet 111 A2 109 D6
Vieux Robin 89 C3
Vill1tr1 106 84
V1lle:••oraa. de 97 GS
V11temaur1ne 111 E4
Violette, la 109 04
Vrar Canon Bovehe 106 C4
Vra1 Canon 8oyer 106 C4
Vray Croix deGay109 05
Yon F1geac 11 I 02
Yquem. d ' 10!'1 F3
Chatelots les 66 C2
C:
:
haten18re, la 60 E3
Chateraise Belle Foret 387 84
Ch•t1llon en D101s 53 E5
Chatter Creek 295 A3
Chatz1geors100 Limno5 281 84
Chatzrvar1t1s 281 A3
Chaume de Talvat 79 G2
Chaume Arnaud, Dom 135 83
Chaum•es les 60 F2
C:haumes de Narvaux les
60 F6
Chaumes des Cuse -T6tes
61 Fl
Chaumes des Narvaux 60 F6
Chaumes dea Pe1T1•res, lea
60 F5
Chaumes at la Vo1erosse, les
63 C3
Chaumes, las. Saaune 63 C3
Chaumes, las. Chas
sa
gne
Montrochet 59 FS F6 60 Gl
Chaumes, les, Meursault 60
F5 F6
Chaumes. las, Vosne
Romart9e 65 F2
Chautaane 152 84
Chazelles Dom des 69 CS
Chaz1•re 66 85
Cheffes 116 A4 AS
Chehalem 297 C4
Chelt1 279 E4
Chem111e 116 C4
Chemmots, aux 67 C2
Chem1ns d'Or1ent, les 113 E6
Chem1ns de Bassac, Dom dH
142 F2
Chena1lla en 67 82
Ch,nas55F573857485
75 86
Chine 81eu 135 83
Ch8ne Marchand 123 C3
Chene Vert 120 F4
ChAnes Clos des 61 F3 F4
Chines. Dom des 145 C4
Chtlnes Its 60 Gl
Chenevery, les 66 C2
Chenav1eres. les 67 C2
Chenevottes. tes 60 F2
Cheng Chen• 390 83
Chenoneeaux 117 82
Cherasco 163 B1
Cherbaudts 66 C4
Cherch1 186 84
Ch.treau Car"" 111 F3
Ch.ry 131 C3
Cheseaux, aux 66 C2
Chestnut Grove 347 F2
Ch8t1tlons. les 83 F4
Cheusots. aux 67 81
Chevagny·les-Chevr1•re1
69 E4
Cheval des Andes 3'40 82
Chevalene Dom de la
120 C4
Che"Yaher M9trat, Dom 74 E"'
Chevalier Montrachet 60 F3
Chevaher Dom de 103 G2
Chevahflires, les 61 Fl
Che\lret an 61 F3
Chevrttte 120 C2
Chevrl•res, las 70 F5
Chevrot. en el A2
Chezots es 67 96
Ch1ant1 173 83 181 E3
Chianti Clusico 173 83177 E4
Ch1ant1 Colll Aret1nl 173 EM
177 E5
Ch1ant1 Colh Fiorentini 173 A.4
177 113
Chianti c.;olll SenHi 173 1!3 C3
177G4 'l
l
CI
AAZl:TTllllt
C:
:
h\antl COiiine lt!Mn•
173 A3 B3
Ch1ant1 Mont.alb11
11
0171A3
Ch1ent1 Mont..pertoll 171 83
177 02
Chianti Ruftna t71 M117 A6
Chien 320 F2
Chll"ord Dom 74 C6
Chi1nu"1 t62 ce.
Ch11ny-IH AolH 83 B4
Ch11e 330 04
CM•nH, IH 82 C6 ce
ChllH Velley 311 96
Chimney Aock 315 C3
Chlnch• 330 83
Chlno11 388 D3
Chlnon 119 C8 120 F4
Chinook 291 Fe
Chlrlpoda, la 32e 1!4
Chlroubl••M>Fe73ce74C4
75 C4
Chorpan 274 E3 E4
Chlflnlu 277 A1
Chlto1e Wln•ry (Gr1e•)
38eA5
Chtveau, •n 81 E6
Ch1vlte, Family E1tatH, J
1117 A4
Chlu�any 2ee El E2
Choapa 330 E4 333 CS
Chocalin 334 04
Chofflet·V&fd..,alrt, Dom
68 05
Chorey- 1•1 Beaune 63 02
Chouecheux, le• 82 C3
Chou11Jet. aux &4 Fe
Chou1lly 83 E3
Chouinard 317 A2
Chozas Carruc.J 188 E5
Chria Rfn&land 362 E4
Chr1amont 3MI 86
Chr..tchurch 387 D6
Christine Woods 304 E2
Chrfotopho Pocalet, 74 E4
Chr1Stophor, J 2�7 C4
Chryaaloa 323 06
Church and State Wines
292 G5
Church Rood 369 84
Churchv1ew 34'9 D6
Chuec:lan 136 C2
C1aec1 P1C
CO
lom1n1 1 79 05
C1arhana, la180 C4
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
298 G2
CieLo, el 327 E4
C11fre, Ch do 141 A5
Coples 188 03
C1plus. Dom de 141 C3
Cilento 182 C3
C1llar de Siios 195 84
Cfma Cor1<> 211 E5 212 06
Cunaro&sa 31
1
A.3
Cimarron Vineyard 326 83
C1msdePor
rera
202 C5
C1nc1ota, le 177 04
Cmnebar 317 C2
Cinque Terre 167 G5
C1r0 182 C5
Coro Ptcaroollo 183 B4
C1rus 188 E5
C1tadelle, Dom de la 135 E4
CUdeCarcas
so
nne53G3
Cltor-.1es83C3
Citic Guo
on
WineN"oya38
8
A3
Cttruadal Mountain 379 A2
Cltl'usdal Val� 379 02
Ctudad Ru.I Valdepeftas
188 E3
C1umai 277 A1
Clal 271 A1
Claiborne &. Churchlll
320C202
Clairault 349 D5
Clalrette de Dte 53 E5
Clare34
4
E2353C1
Clve Val� 34
4
E2
Clarendon Hiiis 356 CS
Clarendon Vineyard
365C5C6
Clark Estate 373 83
c1a-rc 31e c1
Clave� Dom 142 05
Cla"'4llon eo G4
Clay,.
.,.
..
363E2
CIHrLaka304E5
Cteartake 304 ES
Clearview aeg C5
C""'onr.r1: 67 B2
ClementsH1N1311103
Cl..
.,
,,.,.
..,.
,on8783
C'*'°lf(Sl.wion), Ch du 117 F4
ClesH55E581
1
Dl5
ClltfleM 3'15 "1
Cllmatduv..S102
Cline Cel
lars
309E3
Cl
lUon
IleC3117G3
Ctocher. C5oa du "09 04
ClomN on117C1
Cl-379 F2
Cloa Claro 353 E2

404
GAZETTEER
ClosDeCana211&F4
Colombler, Dordof/M 113 EIS
Corbeault0 le1 ee 84
Ooa df
f
Cuaux, Dom '9
Colomblet, St-Jof
fp/I
131 D2
Corblns, 1.. en F2
137 04
Colomb�. la 116 G2
Corcaron, au 57 83
Clo
o
--.DomdtJ146C4 Colom•339114
Corcoran 323 CIS
ClosDuPhoenix289E4
Co16n 330E5
CoreOYO Roy & DAmbcWlcHnu
Cloadul'loyle12383
Colonl1 Caroya 330 E4
273 D2
CIOI du Solell 292 G5
Colorado 290 82
Cordier P•re et Fiia, Dom
Clos Salomon, Dom de 88 05 Colpetrone 181 E6
70 D5
CIOI. le 67 B2
Columbto 295 A3
Cord6n del Plata 340 E2
CIOI, le, Pbuil
ly-
Fuls9'7004
Columbla Croat 298 Ge
Cor1 173 F4
Cloe, le,Vou�121B4
Columbla Gorp 285 C3
Corlole 355 C4
Clos, les, Chabhs 79 E4
Columbia Valley 295 AS
Corl1on 313 G5
Clos. !es, Chambol
le
Mustgny
29804F221
19
F2 300 B3
Corl•Y Family 311 E6
65E5
Combarde, les 59 F6 60 Fl
CorllH Estate 300 A.4 A5
Cloa, les, F1x1n 67 82
Combe au Moine 86 86
Cot'montreull 83 A.4
Clonau,au66�
Combe Buln 81 Bl
Cornu 12902
Closeaux, le• 61 E1
Combe Bl'l
l
lH65E2
Cornlores, los 59 E2
Closel, Dom du 118 82
Combe d'Orveaux, la 66 E3
Corona del Valle 327 F4
Clot de ron11ne 1� 03
F3 F4
Coronlca 271 A1
Clotde l'Oum,Domdu 145D3 CombeO..n-.y,la6103
Corowa 344 F5 35g A5
Clotlld• et Rene 119 F4
Combe de Lavaut 86 A4
Corporation Klndzmaraull
Clou d'Orge, le 63 C6
Combe du Oessus 66 B6
279 E4
Clou des Ch6nes. lo 61 E3
Combe du Pr, la67B5
Corn 149 E4
Clou, le 63 C6
Combe Nvenetlo, 11 67 B3
Corse Calvl 149 E3
Cloudburst 349 ES
Combe Roy, on 67 B2
Corse--Coteaux du Cap Corse
Clouds 363 D3
Combe, 1a 63 C6
149 04
Clouds Vuurbers 383 04
Combereau, en 67 83
Corae Flgar1 149 G4
Cloudy Bo,y 373 B2
Combes au Sud, les 60 F2 F3 Corse- Porto Vecchlo 14S F4
Clous Dessous, les 61 F1
Combes Dessoua, las 61 FS
Corse Sart6no 149 F3
Clous Dessus, les 60 E6
Combes Dessus. les 61 F5
Corse149 04
Clous, aux 63 Al
CombesduBu66CS
Corsln, Dom 70 84
Clous, le 61 01
Combes, loo, Boaune 63 C3
CortesdeClrna219F4F5
Clous, les 61 D3
Combes, les, Marsannqy
Cortese dell'•lto Monferrato
Ctover Hill 36
6
02
67 A5
157 F4
Cloverdale 304 F4 307 A3
Combes. les. Meursault 61 F5 Corton. le 63 C4
Clyde Park 369 D3
Combet
t
es, les 60 G4
Cortona 173 C4
Co-op A&ricola de
Combot
t
e, la61ES
Cortons, les 60 E3 F3
GranJ& Amaret9:1a 219 F6
Combottes, aux 65 FS 66 C3 Corwli Basse, la 63 06
CoalRiver36
6
F2
Combottes, las 63 05 65 F5
Corvff. la 63 06
Coutal R..,on 379 E2
6784
Corv9es. aux, Gevrtiy
Coastlands Vineyard
Commandarla 284 C3
Chambertm 66 C6
307F3F4
Commanderle de Peyrassol
CorvHs, aux. Nutts St--
Coatoe & Se
e
ly249G3G4
147 C2 C3
Georges 64 F2
Cobaw Rldp 359 C3
Commarame, Clos de la 81 F6 Corvus 285 F3
Cobb Wi nes 307 F4
6201
Corzano e Patemo 177 02 03
Cocarde, la 67 B2
Comme O.nu1 59 E4
Cos 184 GS
CocoFarm&Winery386C6
Comme, la 59 F4
CoHntJno 31"4 G4' GS
Codana 163 C3
Commes, tea 60 F2
Cosenza 182 04
Codom1u 201 E4
Commun•. aux 65 G2
Cosne-COUrs-aur-Lotre 117 85
Codru 277 Al
Comoutos 281 D2
Cone�Mai&0nneuve, Dom
Coelo Vineyard, de 307 F4
Comrat 277 Al
115 C4
Cofco Ch Sunsod 38
8
D3
Comt• Tolosan 53 G2
Colta d'Amalfl 182 B2
Cohn BR309C2
Comt.81 Ahodan .. na 53 E5
Costa di Monforte, le 163 F4
Coimbra 208 C4 217 D2
Conca 163 C3
Cost.a d1 Rose 163 D3
ColntH, Ch des 140 C6
Conca de Ba-r• 188 D5
Costa Lazand1. Dom 281 A4
Col d'Orc1a 179 04
201 E2
0oeta RuMl 181 02
Col Sol1re 21
1
8G2
Concannon 317 A3
Costanti 179 C5
Colares 208 D3 215 C3
ConchayToroaa.C4
Co
ote
Chaude,Domde135B3
Colcha&ua 334 E6 33
3
E5
Conclln., de 182 C3
Coste della S..ia 158 G2
Coldstream Hills 383 04 D5
Conc1t du Champs. le 60 G1
157 D3
Cole 161C3
Condado de Haza 195 B4
Coste Moyn1er, Dom de la
Colo Ranch 304 E3
Condado de Huelva 188 F2
143 D1
Colet 201 E3
Condarnlne Bertrand, Ch la
Coste, le 163 D2 D3
Col&ln 311 C5
142 E3
Colt.rs del Sacre 188 C5 05
Cohnu de Slo Loure�o
Condarn1ne l 'Eveque, Dom la
201 E1
217 C2
142 F3
Costl•res de Pomerols, les
Collarato 163 E4
Conde de San Cr1st6bal
142 F3
Collemattone 179 05
1g5 c3
Coston, Dom 142 �
com Albani 173 F3
Condemennet, te1 65 F5
Coaum� River 311 C2
Colli Altotlberml 181 04 015
Condom Parceval, Ch 113 F5 Cotar 21!8 F2
Coll! Amer1n1 173 04 181 G6
Condor's Bend 373 B2
C6te Biondo 131 B4
Co111 Barlcl 165 E3
Condr1eu 129 A2 131 C3
C6te Bonnette 131 C3
Co111 Bolo&noal 165 G3 173 A4 Conethano Valdobbladene
C6te l!lrune 131 B4
ColU Bolo&ne1I ClaHlco
ProHCCo 185 04
C6te Chatlllon 131 C3
Pl&nolotto 1e5 G2
Conero 173 C6
C6te de l!lr9chaln 71
1
05E5
Colli det Tru1meno 173 C4
Coney 370C4
C6te de Broullly 61 F6 73 D6
191 E4
Conn Cre
e
k314D4
74F476F4
Com di Laplo 183 B6
ConnardlHI, ez e3 B2
C6te de Broullly 73 05 74 F4
ComdiLunl157G5Ge
Conn• de - Labarde 113 Ee
C6te d• Culssy 7g G2
Colli d1 Pormo 157 FIS 1116 Fl G1 ConnectK:ut 290 B5
C6te de Fontenoy 7g D4 D6
Colli Eupnel 1&6 E3
Cono Sur 336 01
C6te de Jouan 7g G2
Colli Eupne1 Ftor d'Aranct0
Conrad FOrot&S6hne289F3 C6tede Liic:hot711E2E3
1 &6 E3F3
Constant 311 B2
C6te d• Savant 7g Dl
Colli Lanuvinl 173 F3
Constanti1 371
1
G1G2360A5 C6t•d•5'zanne81E2
Colll Mac:erai.ei 173 06 De
Conetantl1 Glen 360 B6
C6te de Vaubaroune 79 06
Colli Martanl 173 D4 181 F5
Constantia Urtsl1 380 C5
C6tede1Bar11G4
Colll Oriental! del Frlul117i C4 Con1ulta, La 340 F1 F2
C6to d.. Blanca 81 D2 03
Colll Orlontall de1 Frlull Plcollt
ContedeFloris, Domle142F3 C6ted..P°'sGlrots7gEIS
171114
Contea di Sclafan• 184 F4
Cote di Franze 182 06
Col
l
lPeru,lnl17304181E4E5 Conthey253F3
C6te Roanna11e 153 �
Coll• PnaraSi 173 C6 C8
Cont1 347 C2
C6te R6t1e 88 B2
Colh Placenttn1 167 F6 Fe
Conti Zecca 182 118
C6te Rozier 131 86
Coll! S•nHI 177 F2
Contini 1118 C4
C6te VermeJlle 63 G4
Colll Tortono11 167 F4
Contino 1811 112
C6te R6tle 129 A2 131 B3 84
Colllns Torlnesa 15g A2 12
Continuum 31
1
Cl5
C6te, Dom do la 320 F2
Colline Japon 388 D4
Contrade di Taurul 113 A6
C6to, la Rh"'1o131 E2
Colline Luc
c
hHl 173 A3
Contrea 117 12
C6te, la, Swltzerland 261 C2
Colllne Novl
l'H
l16&F316704 Contrle.lo12002
262 D4
Col l •nH Rhodantenrte• 63 Eli Contuccl llO C4
C6te, 11 321 C3
Colllnet Vineyard, le1 300 86 Co
om
bevllle 303 C2 311 FIS
Coteau de Nol.. 120 F4
Colllns Vineyard 313 F4
Co
on&
-34
4
G3
Coteau de Viney 282 E4 Ea
Como Gorl11&no o Colllo
3671618
Coteau de1 !loll, le &4 F6
1116DIS171D&
Cooper 311 118
Coteaux d'Enwune 63 G4
C.61fn 234 G3
Cooper (Jarrod 317 112
Coteau)( de S•11er1 &3 G4
Collonp Domdele7004
Cooper Mountain 287 C4
CotMuxDoBotrya21
18
04E4
c;.olmant 313 De
Cooperlti•• Winery of
Cota
aux
••Cortry83ca
lolombalod1 Cencl0 171 F5
Nomea 213 Fe
Coteaw<deDie63E5F6
Colornbarct la 131 IM
Copatn 307 06
Coteau• de Gianoa 53 F3
C.
.
olombera 1e3 �
(,opert1no 112 ca cs
Cota
aux
derArct«:he53F4F6
(.
.ojombe
ra&Ga,.
.
lla 1H G1
Cop1aP6 330 04 33
3
AIS
Cote&Ux de l'Aubanee 118 113
[,
,
olo-.0,Domle141H
Coruon del Sol 340 El
Coteau)( d• l'Auxo11 &3 C4
Coteaux d• Narbonne &3 G4
Coteau• d• Pe)lnoc 63 G4
Cotnux do Plorrovert 53 F5
Coteaux de Samona 131 C3
Cotn.ux de Tannay &3 C4
Cotaaux de1 BaronnlH
63F5FIS
Coteaux dH Travert , Dom
du137B6
Coteaux du Char et da l'Arnon
53 D3
Cot..ux du Layon 118 D3
Coteaux Du Llban 288 F5
06-ux du Morin 81 E2 E3
Coteaux du Ptc, les 142 Ce
Cot.aux du Pont du Gard
53 F5
Cotellerate, Dom d•la 120 C2
C6tea Catalano& 53 G4
CbtH d'Auversn• 53 E3 E4 ,
C6tlis d'Avanos 285 F6
C6tes de Gascogne 53 G2
C6tes de la Charlt4 53 C4 04
Cbtes de la Roche, Dom les
73 BS
C6tes de Mellton 281 64
C6tes de Meuse 53 B6
06tos de M11lau 53 F4
C6tes de Thau 53 G4
C6tes de Thon1ue 53 G4
C6tes de Toul 53 85
C6tes du Forez 53 E4
C6tu du Juro 151 De G3
C6tes du Rh6ne 129 A2 F2
Cbtes du Tarn 53 F3
C"t8S du Vlvt1ra1s 53 F4 F5
C6tos de l 'Orbe 251 B2
C6tes. Clos les 113 E6
Cotoft1 273 C4
Cotnarl 273 a.
.
Cotnari. Sc 273 B4
Coto de Gomarlz 192 G2
Coto de R1o)a, El 199 B2
Coton, en 67 81
Cotta 181 C3
Cottanera 185 A4 AS
Coturr1 309 81
Coucher1u, aux 62 C4
Coudoulet de Beaucastel
137 E2
Coupr Crest 300 84
CouJan , Ch 141 A5
Coulajne, Ch de 120 F3
Coulff de Serrant 118 A2
Coulommes la Montaan•
83 A2
Couly Duthell 120 F4
Coume del Mu 146 F6
Coupe Roses, Ch 141 83
Cour"Chevemy 117 82
Courac, Ch 136 C1
Courb1nac, Dom d• 141 82
Court Gardan 249 G4
Court les ·MOts, Ch 113 E4
Courtelonp 70 B3
Courts, lea sou1 61 E3
Cou11no- Macul 334 C3
Coutale, Clos la 116 C4
Coutlore. la 63 05
Couvent de1 Jacobtns
111 E4
Couvent Rou1a 286 Ee
Covelo 303 A2
Cowaramup 348 E6
Cowhorn Vineyard 2915 G2
Cowra 34
4
Ee
Coyeux, Dom IH 137 06
Crabtrae Watervale
363 D1 D2
Craqy Ranp 389 C6
Cral&IH 36gC4
Crol10W 388 F2
Cralplllot fl& 96
Crala do Chtne, 1.. &7 B2
Crall, lea, AuK41f ·Dul'ftf
f
1
ltlC1
Cral1, lee, Fl
lt
ln87C1
Cral1, IH , Gevrwy
Cham�rtin 1Se ce D6
Crall, lea, Manianngy
67B3B6
Cral1, lea, Santencu- 159 E2
Croma Averetti 273 BS
Crama BaellHCU 273 C4
Crama Bauer 273 03
Crama Ceptura 273 �
Cr1m1 Glrbolu 273 C&
Crama Oprltor 273 02 03
Cramant 13 E3
Cramel• Recq 273 C2
Crampllh. Dom du 116 F2
Crane Family 311 F5
Crapou1uet1, te1 e3 C3
Cru, aux, ..aun• e2 C•
Cra1, aux, NuJt1-St-Geor,e1
1S6Fl
CrH, 1•1, 6.eaUntl e3 03
C.-.
.
, lea.Gev1vChamw.
.tln
65 F&
CrH, H, Mara
a
nnqye1 93
Cra1, H. Meul'9ault 91 F3
Crla, IH, NuJta - St-GeorgN
ISH4
Cru, lea, Pommard 81 F5
Cra..n 383 E2
Crowford River 369 Dl
Cr1¥9, IH, Meunault 81 E2
Cra)'&, IH, Poullly -Fu/114
70 A3
Craotlon 384 FIS
Crechellna, on 67 Cl
Crkhes sur·Sabne 69 G4
Credaro :MS 05
Craed 361 02
Craek Shores 2g3 F4
Crems, la 307 C5
c"m•d•. Ch 14& ce
Cremuchl Furlottl 336 E3
Cr6mat. Ch de 147 AIS
Crem1Hn 287 F5
c..
..,
1.e1B1
C�,en60D3
C�.lo66B6
Crepy 1S2 A6
Crttevent 67 Cl
Crets,oz60G2
Creux Bal ssanta, lea 66 E4
Creux Sanots, la 67 84
Creux de Bor&ey 61 Cl
CreuxdelaNet63B3
Creux de Tillet 61 02
Creysse 113 E6
Crlcova 277 AT
Cnots,lea80G261F3
Cnpna 273 B2
Crlstfa, Dom de 137 E3
Cr1stom 297 ES
Crittenden 361 F6
Crnoaorskt Basen 287 GS
Crno1orsk1 Sjover 287 F5
Crnoaorsko PNmorJ• 267 G4
Croce d1 Febo 180 03
Crolsettes, les 66 86
Crols1lle Ch las 115 C4
Croix Blanche. I• 67 C1
Croix Blanche, la. Beaune
82 01
Croix Blanche, la,
Nutts StGeorge84G6
65 G1
Croix des Pins. Ch la 135 C4
Croix Mouton. la 106 B3
Croix Neuve. la 6'1 A2
Croix Nolre1. les 61 FS
Croix Pardon, la 70 C5
C"°'x Planet. la e1 G5
Croix Rameau, la 65 F2
Croix Rouse. la 131 03
Croix Rouges, aux 64 G6
Croix Sorin• 59 03
Croix St Roch, Dom la 143 01
Croix V1ollet
t
e.la6781
Croix- Belle, Dom la 142 F2
Croix, aux 65 F5
Croix, la 133 C5
Cromin, le 61 F2
Cromwell 376 05
Cromwell Basin 375 CS
Cro
o
ked Vine 317 A3
Croa Martin 61 G4
Cros Parantoux 65 F2
Crotots , les eO F6
Crots, IH 64 F4
CrottH, ez 69 FS
Croux, las 70 A2
Crownthorpe Terraces
389 B2 B3
Croat Hermltqe 129 D2
Crozes, de1 141 C2
Cru Bar..jats 105 B2
Cruet 152 05
Cruot1 ou VllJ'l•I Blanches,
lea116F3
Cruah Pad 2112 F6
Cruz de Piedra 340 B3
Cruz1lle 61il 85
Cryetallum 384 E5
C..ford 263 C2
cauw 283 B3
caarru 21S5 G3
Coonv'd 283 C4
Csopak 263 C2
Cueate Blanca 204 BIS
Cula 83 E3
Cul do e..ujeu, le 123 B3
Cullan 348 E6
Culm1na 2g2 G5
Cupano 17g D3
Cupertlnum 192 ii&
Curlc6 336 El 33
3
E5
Curlo, la 361
1
04 D5
Curlew!• 361 D3
Curly Flet 361
1
C4
Currt 181 C3
Currency Cro
ol<
34
4
F2
Curteft'enca 187 De ltMI El
Curtet, Dam 182 16
Cueumano 184 E3
Cuv.allOn E.1tate 311 92
Cuv.11.,. Lo• ..
..,.
..
340El
CVNE 1gg f3
Cz1rOka 2fJ!i 04
D'Oro . Cloa 141 112
Oerr6're le Four.
Dachaber1230 F6
Cltambol/a Mu1ipny 1S6 F6
Dady, Cloa 106 D3
�re le Four, Meu,.
.
ault
D1fnff 281 F4
11'102
D.,.1tan 277 C8
Dll'rl.,.
.
le Four.
Dlhlenhelm 126 A6
Va.ne-RomaMa 86 F2
Dal Zotto 359 B8
Drl'l.... IH Cral169 E2
Dal11
11
1ru 281 B3
DOl'l'l•reIOIGalno¥60B8
Dalli Clo 383 E3
Derwent Eat.to 388 F2
Dalla Vale 314 E5
Derwent Val
l
ey386F2
Dallu 328 B8
Desert Wind 288 F8
DalmoclJ• 267 F4 271 D3
Dee-'l'y 285 G4
Dalmatln•ka zecora
[)a
a
souglesMun60G2
271C4C5
Deaua de Marconneta 82 se
Dalrymple 368 D2
0.1su& de Monchenevoy
Dalton 287 D5
63 A2
Dalwhlnnl• 359 B2
Oot
torl
186B4B5
Oamaud... IH 86 F2
Deutach SchOtzen 265 ES
Dambach la.V111o 125 C4
Doutschkreutz 265 05 262 B5
Damiani 325 05
Oout:ochlandsberg 266 F3
Damlan1tza 274 F2
Deux c1es. Dom des 141 D3
Damien Laureau 118 A2
Oeux Roches, Dom dft 70 B6
Domljan 171 C4
Devant. Clo1 60 G2
Oamodes, les 65 F1
Deveze, Dom de la143 01
Dan Fen1388 84
DeviationRoad35604
Dancln& Water 371 F2 F3
Devils Corner 386 E3
Danczka 265 F2
Oevll's Lair 349 G6
Dandellon 351 Ce 352 D3
Devon VaHey 383 02
Danebury 249 G3
Devotus 370 C4
Danguerrlns, les 65 F4
Dewu1 363E1
Daniel Dugo1s. Dom 151 05 06 Dexter 381 ES
Danlell 279 D3
D<izaley 252 oe
Oanjou-Banessy, Dom 145 D4 Dhron 231 E3
Danube Terraces 273 D6
D1Arie.CG318BS
Danublll
ll
Plain 274 02
Dlablo Grande 303 D3
Danzay, Ch de 120 F3
O.amandes 340 El
Dio 208 B5 217 B5
Diamond 387 B5
O.rdagny 262 F3 G3
D1omond Cre
e
k311B1B2
Dard1 163 E3
Diamond Mountain Dlstnct
Dario Pr1nclc 171 06
311 B1
Danoush 311 ES
Diamond T 317 F3
Dark Star 320 Bl
Diano d'Alba 163 C4
Oarlln1379 F2
Oldter & Denis Berthollw
Oarlln1 Collara379 Fl F2
152 C5
Oarms Lane 311 E5
Didier Oagu911eau, Dom
Dartmoor Valley 369 B4
123 05
Daten-a Vltecuttores 192 G3
D1d1ers. les 64 F3
Oaubhaus 226 F4
01emersdal 379 F2
Daubhaus Paterhof
Diemersfonte1n 379 F2
240 G4 G5
D••nay, en 67 B3
O.vay469F470B4
Dlenhalm 238 E4
Davenay de 68 F4
D1orber& 321 B4
Davenport 249 G3
D1eu Donn•383 D6
David&Nadia38104D5
Dleux, Dom des 384 F6
David Bruce 317 C2
D111ors10 Family 357 86
David Franz 361 C4
D'"ons Point 373 C3
David Hiil 297 C3
Dlm1nro 283 E4
David Hook 385 B4 B5
01nut1a Vivanco 199 G4
Davies. J 311 82
01ochon, Dom 74 CS
Davino 273C4
Diosn1•res les 133 C5
Davis Bynum '307 05
Dloterie. Clos de la 120 GS
Doylon1390 B4
Dlren 265F5
Deak Bar•t 265 G3
Dirmstoln 241 B4243 E3
Deelu Mare 273 04
Dlsa 163 04
Duver316 B5
Distel! 383 E2
Decantos Vlnlcola 327 �
Dlszn6k6 265 F2 F3
Dechant 2511 B3
D1ttelshelm 238 F3
DK1ma 192 G3
Dlttelshe1m· Hessloch 239 A3
Decugnano del Barbi 181 F4
Dl zy 83D3
D..p Woods 349 D5
Oobo16 26
6
G4
Def'f'ends, Dom du 147 C1
Dobrich 274 C6
0.1ru11 271 A1
Dobro&•• Hills 273 D5
Oehesa de Los Can6nls<>&
Doctor 233 F4
195 C3
Do1 Point 373 C2
Dehesa del Carrizal 188 E5
Oo&1lan1 157 F3 1511 F2 F3
O.hoaa la GranJ1 1ga G3
Ooktor1arten 245 D2
Dahllnpr 307 E5
Dokua 265 C6
De1 180 C4
Dolcetto d'Alba 159 ES
Dt11deshelm 241 C4 242 G3
Dolcetto d'Aatl 159 D5 ES
Del Rio 29S G2
Dolcetto di Diano d'Alba
Delalre 383 04
169 E3
Delamere 388 02
Dolcetto di Ovada 157 F4
Delaney Vlneyard1 32e B5
Oolfo 171 D6
Delaplane 323 05
Oolnl Kounlce 21Se F3
Dalatlte 369 B6
Ooluca 295 F3
Delaware 290 B5
Dom Boyar274 E4
Delhe1m 383 03
Dom De Baal 288 F6
DeL111e 2g5 A3
Dom Dea Tourellas 288 F6
Dellchon 236 F4
Dom Skaff288 F4
dell• Venezle 186 C4
Dom Wardy 288 F6
Del.oech 307 E5
Domain Doy 381 E3
Oemencle 192 F4
Domain• A 38& F2 F3
0.moiMll.. , 1.. 80 F3
Domain• Carne.roe 309 Oi4
Demorpnzon 383 E1
311 G5
Oonbl•• 2.W G4
Domelna Chandon. CoHfbrn4r
Denlo' 73 E6
311 E4
Denl1otte1, IH 123 B3
Oomatnt Chandorl, Yorra
Denlzll 285 G3
VQJ/ey 383 C4
Denman 34& 01
Domain• Delporte 123 il3
Dent d• Chien 80 F2 F3
Domatrwt 0.1 Prt"Oea 2ae F4
Oentelle, Dom la 162 A4
Domain• Dr'Ouht,, 2Q7 03
O-re. Dom 146 D4
Domain• Eden 317 C2
Derbent 277 CIS
Domain• S.rer\e 287 C3
D..
..
.,
on &eBe
Domai- 4 Vlnoyat'da 347 G2
Derelkoa 283 G2
Dombera 234 a8
Dere111a. Ch 266 F3
Domi>eya 31
13
F3
oernau22e F2
Oomecq 321 06
OeFloH 317 E4
�lite fratK:-Q- Rom"�
CJ•M"l•re cher Eoouar< t\O 02
219 06
Der-�laGranp&Fl!
!I
Vomenule 0.tnv '2'7'3 E&
Oarrl4'ra la TiMJr 'SQ 0.J
Divnan'1I• T"nhanl ')l'}f"4 - �

Domtinlul Catt•.,. 213 02
Oomen!ul COl'Ol
l
fl91s.prcM
213 0!
Domharr 231 CJ
Oomtn10 Mollna 339 C5
Domlnro do Gormai 1116 ce
Dom.In'° de Ta ,.
..
192 F5
Oomlnlo d• Valdepuea 111 E!S
Oomlnlo d•I 8•ndlt.o 19e E2
Oomlnlo do Sibel 192 G3
Oomlmque Corn1n, Dom 70 F&
Dominique Portet 3e:3 ce
Domino d•I Plata 340 C2
Domlnode , la 113 Bl
Oomlnu1 311 04
Domkop1tal 280 G4
Domlay 228 F3 G3
Domoazl6 2113 84
Domprobot 233 E4
Oomu1 Aurea 334 C.
Don Valley 277 M
�a Ma�ellna Vineyard
321 83
Dona Marla Vtnhoa 219 ES
Oona Paterna 2og F6
Dofta Paula 340 Dl
Donat Family 320 1!'1
Donauboden 257 Cl
Donaulelten 267 C4 C5
Oonnatuaata 184 F2
Donnatella Cmelll Colombini
179 8!1
Oonnersklrchen 256 C6
Donum Estate 309 E4
Do
oobo
rc 2311 F6
Dorado, El 318 B3 86
Dorso D1un6kc5 265 F3
Oormllona 349 DS
Dom Durkholm 238 F3
Dornier 383 E3
Dorrance 379 Fl F2
Dorsholm 234 04
Dos Cabezas Wlneworks
326 83
Dos d'Ane, le 61 A2
DO< Rios 303 Al
Dou Bern•a, Dom 116 F2
Double L Vineyard 317 F4
Dou&-la-Fonta.ine 116 C6
°"
"
'°" 2B1 B3
Douloufakls 281 F4
Oourak1s 281 f4
Dournie, Ch la 141 84
Douro 20884B6211E4E6
212 04DS
Douro Superior 211 E6
212 0606
Oownrni Estate 369 EM
Dr Konstantln Frank
325 C4
Dr Stephen• 313 F5
Drachen-n 236 F2
Drlgipnr 273 03
Dratomir 274 E3
Dr-nClan 273 04
DragonSeal38
8
03
Dr4ma2B1A4
Drayton's Family 365 06
Dreaden, Germany223 05
Dresden, USl
l
325 C4
Dressoles lea 61 G3
Drew304E2
Drrehoek 371
1
02
Drfl't.Tho379G3
Drropl 283 Fii
Drumaaro 375 E6
DryCre
ek
Valley 307 C3
DryC-1<Vineyard307C4
Dry River370 C5
Dryad,Ch38
8
114
Drylando 373 B3
DSG (David Sompodro Grl)
198 86
Dubors121B4
Oubreurl, Clos 107 03
DucadrSalaparuto184E3
Duch<!d'Uzrlo53F4F6
Duchman Family 326 C6
Duckw.lk324F2
Duckhom 313 E4
Duca.CloedoaeiE4Ell
Du.Palme18211
11
OueTerre.le111C4
Duka&Jln•-hl)a287 f6
Dukoa341F4
Dumoi 30706
DunaJaka $t:reda 21
18
G4
DuncanPNl<304E3
Dunod•n 387 E4
Dunham Callaro 300 All 85
Dunn 311 A3
Dunnlpn Holl• 303 B3
Oupequler, Dom 162 84
Duru 113 F4
Durbaoh 244 04
Durban.Domda13706
Ourbanvllle 379 F2
Durbanv1fle Hlll1 379 F2
Durell Vlneyard 309 02
OoreeM1, �81 02 E2
OuMense 208 B6
Our11utt1 WlMmt.ker1
3'40111112
Durney3f7F3
OOrnotoln 258 B3 267 B4
Duroto, lea 81 G3
Durrau 281 C4
Durtal 118 AO
OuHll"etJr, Dom 139 E2
Ou1tod Valley 30
0
114
Dutch Hanry 311 113
Dutoltokloof3711 F3
Dutachko 311 E2
Dutton Eatato 307 E5
Dutton Gol'"'-kl 307 E6
Ouxoup 307 M
Ova MOlili 274 C4
Dverlpax 289 E2
Dyor 311 82
Dynasty 388 E4
Eal
l
• Foothills 29a F8
Eal
l
• P•ok 304 C3
Eastes' Noat 380 Be
Early Mountain 323 E4
Eut Azov Cout '07 A4
Eaat Cout 3118 E2 E3
Eastern Anatolla 285 F6 F6
Eastern Peake 359 C3
Ebonthal 256 86
Eberlo 320A2
Eborober& 240 E3
Eboraha1m 238 E3
Echarllo 60 02
Echalaia, le1 67 82
Echan1es. aux 66 F5
Echards, a 61 F4
EchoWlrria 335 02
Ec�zeaux du Oessus 65 F3
Ech•znux. aux 86 CJ
Ech6zuux, lea 66 E5
Echrco Wrnory 386 C6
Echo. Clos da I' 120 F4
Echuca 34
4
F4359M
Eck 226 G1
Eckartaborg 246 El
Eckbera. Au.str1a 255 F3
Eckbors. Germany 245 C3
EcoleNo41,I'300B3
Economou 281 F5
Ecu....8286
Ecu, Dornda 1117F3
Ecue11 83 B3
Ecussaux. les 61 E2
Edel Wetn 386 06
Edelberg 233 86
Edelgrabon 260 E3
Edolsrund 260 F4
EdeJmann 236 FS
EdonHall361C536203
Edon Valle)' 34
4
E236104
362 E4
Eden Valley Wines 351 C6
3S2 03 F5
Edenkoben 241 C4
Edoaholm 241 C4
Edet
trt
a200G6
Edgabaston 383 02
Edi Kaber 171 05
EdrSim<!�17106
Edlmo 285 E3
Edie We lnprton 239 A3 A4
Edna Valley 320 Cl C2
Edna Vall"Y Vineyard 320 C2
Eduardo Pe"• 192 G2
Edwards Wines 349 F5
Efr1n1en -Kirchen 244 F3
E1or283B4
Eaonburg 266 A4
Ello 281 C3 283 E3
EglrH. Clos I' 109 04
EJlllse. Dom de I' 109 04
Eguroholm 126 E4 1211 C6
Ehlers Eatata 313 E4
Ehronfola 269 Cl
EhNnhau1en 26
6
F4
Elchbor1 128 B5
Elchert 246 82
Elchhoffon 126 C4
Erchototten 246 C4
Erdoa 193 C4
E1kendal 383 F2
E1Hle Vineyard 311 A2
Elunborg 266 E5 G6
Elaonltadt 266 C5 260 F1
Elsner 260 E3
Ertalabach 227 C4
EMsaa 188 G5
Elllola6n330F4
El C•pillo 340 F2
El Challao-Laa Horaa 340 1!12
El Corchuolo 205 06
El Hoyo 330F4
Et Viejo Almac•n de Sauzal
336F4
Eiananoe
Elu.UBe Gl
l
Ell>l17SC1
Elb&-tloo Pulito 173 C2
Eldal'to� 31
1
114
Eldorado flo
od
361
1
AB
Eldrrdp 31
11
Ft
Elena Fucci 182 84
Elon• Wal¢h 1117 E6
Elephant Hiil 3el
l
C6
Ellin3711G2314E4
Ellln l'lldp 384 E3
Ellln Vlntnoro 314 03
Ellan da Roo 110 C2
Elfu Mora 1118 F3
Ellm 371
1
G3
Ellaabotta Dolzoc
c
hlo 11111 E4
Ellaonbors 23
3
G2
Elizabeth304 03
Elk Cow 2117 C3
Elkhovo 214 E4 E5
Elkton Orel"
"
2Q5E2F2
Ello, Ch d' 113 Ell
Enorsrub 233 ce
Ellerotadt 241 B4
Elllaton 317 A2
Elmalr 285 G3
Elmowood Eatota 3113 Ea
E16hegy 2115 04 G3
EIOro 184 G6
Elqul33004333B588
Elsholm 238 E3
Elater 242 F2
Eltvlllo am Rhein 238 03
237 G3
Elyso 311 E4
Embraz"8, loa 69 F6
Emerm1es 73 B� 74 EM
Emeritus 307 E6
Emov6 327 E4
Emlllana OrPnlco 334 06
Emilio Moro 195 C3
Emilio Rojo 192 Gl
Em1ho Valerio 197 84
Em1nades. Dom IH 141 B4
Empordl-Co1ta Brava 188 C6
Encantada, la 321 C3
Encloa (Latour), I ' 93 E6 95 OS
Encostas de Aire 208 C4
Encostaa do Alqueva 219 F6
Endrn1on 244 E3 245 B3
Endrlzz1 166 A5
Enfa.nts. Dom des 145 03
Engolborg 126 A5
En1elgrube 231 E2 F3
Enaetmannsber1 237 F1
Enplsberg,Baden246B3B4
En1elsberc, Rheinfront
240 8S
Engelsber1o Rhelnhessen 239
D3 E3
Enkln:h 227 C5 23
3
86
Enochs Stomp Vineyard &
Winery 326 86
Ennc Soler 201 E3 E4
Ensetpres, Jes 60 G3
EnMlbars 246 C2
Ent1"9.)'1Ues-Le Fel 63 F3 F4
Ent,.
.
ArveetLac251C2
252 F4
Entre Arve et Ah6ne 261 El
252 G4
Entre Oeull Valles, lea 67 B2
Entre Deux Mers 85 03 101
B186E4
Envy Estate 311 A1
Enz 317 E4
Eoh1 274 F4
Eoa 320 B2
Epa1sse. I' 120 C2
Eponoml 281 83
Epenotes, les 62 02
Epornoy 83 E3
Epesses 252 06
Eplneurl 56 A4
Eplnottes, 111 79 E3
Eprrt, Ch d' 118 A2
Epomtures, les 66 C3
Eppolsholm 238 F3 239 82
Eraduo 374 E5
Erumua, Cloo 202 C4 C5
Erath297 03
Erbaluce di Caluso 157 E3
Erddb6nyo 265 E3
Erd6horv6tr 2115 04
Er1ot on 66 C4
Eric Foreat, Dom 70 1!13
Eric Morsat 118 1!11
Erlcanoa 205 81
Erlco 184 E2
Erin Eyoa 353 02
Erloa, Ch doa141 E3
Ermelinda Freltu 21a Oi
i
Ell
Ermita, I 202 C4
ErnHto Catena vtneyarda
340 E1 E2
Ernie Ela 383 F3
Errburlz 334 C2
Errel Nlnot. Dom Ill All
Erzotlt 171 ca
Eocoladol 202 114
Eacarpment Vineyard
370 C4 Ce
EICIUIHI, Dom d' 115 De
Eachon Vineyard 318 lie
Eachomdorf247 C4
Eaclan1, Ch d' 'M1 C3
Eacondldo Valley 326 86
E..oMhueta GucOn :MO 112
E1eourrou, Dom 140 CS
Eok Valley 3811 118
Eopectacte 202 D4
Eoplnho 210 F4 Fa
i:uarto,le•011FiillOGl
Esunhalm 238 02
E11inpn 241 04
Eotl Eatll Eotlli di
Montefluc:ono 173 03
181 G3 G4
Eatableclmlento Juanic6
332 G3
Eatacl6n cH Ot\cio1 el
Porvenlr (La Eacuellta)
327 E4
Eatalnl 63 F4
Eatampa 334 De
Eatancla 317 F6
Estancia lo1 Cardonn 339 C6
Eatonola Piedra 1116 F2 F3
Eatancla Uapollota :MO B1
EatanlllN, Ch do• 142 E1
Eoto :MOD6
Eatoc:o, El 3311 C5
Estal'anla 1112 F5
Estolla 1117 114
Eat•rflna 304 82
EatournellH St-JacquH
118 Al
Estremoz 2111 DO
Eau 111
1
04
E1vre1 117 B1
EtollH, ... 87 !15 C4 C5
Etan& de• Colombea, Ch
141 C3
Etchart 331
1
C6
Etelola, aux 66 C4
Etna 184 F5 185 85
Etoola, I' Cloa da 87 C6
ftode. I' Jura 151 F4
Etollo, I'. Vouvrqy 121 85
Et"'°hy 83G3
Etudo 309 05 311 G6
Et•epraya, Dom 114 GS Ge
Etyok 283 B3
Euchar1uaberg 229 A2 A5
Eu1ene 295 E2
Eugenio Bustos 340 Fl
Eupn10 C0Uav1 n1171 C4
Eupnio Roal 166 05
Euzl6re, Ch do 142 Ce
Evan's Ranch 321 C4
Evans •Tata 349 E6
Eveninc Land 297 03
Evo rve
e
n Vrnoyard 298 B6
Evesham Wood 2117 E3
Evhar1s 281 03
Evocellas, lei 66 88
Evo1s, Jei 120 C4
Evora 208 E5 219 E4
Evorilla205 A2
Exeo 199 F4
Exopto 199 A2
Exton Park 249 G3
Ey1Uets. loo 131 E2
Eyr1e297 03
Eyllards, Ch dH 113 Ea
Fabas, Ch 141 C2
Fabor 347 C2
Fablan 211
1
C6
Fabien Tros.set 152 CS
Fable379 F2
Fabre Montmayou 340 82
F�onn1•Ns, lea 66 C2
Fas•. Ch le 113 E5
Failla Wines Vineyard 307 02
F11rPlay318B4B6
F11rendes, les 59 FS F6
F11rhall 373C2
Fairhaven 326 86
Fairview 383 83
Falveley, Dom 88 C5
Fakra286 ES
Falerlo 173 Oi
i
Falerno del Muslco 182 B2
Falesco 181 G4
Flleftl 277 A1
Falkonbor1 231 C3
Falken,teln 2a5 All
Falkenatelner Hofbera: 22;
,t\3 A4
Falklay 233 B6
Fall Creak Vineyard• 326 B6
Fallbach 24
4
ce
Fallotto 1113 E5
Fama.tin& Ch1leclto 340 Oe
Familia Delcu 332 G3
Famllla lrurtla 332 F1
Familia Nin Ortiz 202 Ca
Fam1ha Torres 201 F3 202 C4
Famllle L1eubN.u 117 F2
Famlne1, le1 61 G4
Fancreat 371 F3
Fannuchl 307 ES
Fantl)c&m•tocho 211 F4
Fanti, Montalclno 178 06
Fanti. Tro nt/no 1118 118187 G4
Far Nlent• 314 F4
Fara 1611 G4 167 04
QAZITTllllt
Forra, J a. Fllhoa 2111 03
FlrotCreak3e6C6Oi
i
Fourc-. aux 13 12
Farf/\a 1IMI E3
Flrlt Drop 311 B4
Fourmentai, Dom la t3e 83
Faro114E8
Flta f'Nta2111E4
Four""
""
, auic83112C2
Ferr Rl1ln1368 03
FlvoG-368C6
FoumMUx,let,ChabMI7tDe
F..
.
t1e1c2
Flxey 8782
Foumeaullt. le
e
, Sant.nay
FuoatJTtoll4
Flxln l56C8117111
&1
1
02
Fatalono 1112 110
Frasotono 3113 G3
Fournef'Mt.nt, aux 91 E3
Fattol 1711 C4
Flam 217 Fa
Fourn14tr", 0 196 C3
Fattorla dal llarbl 1711 C6
Flamotroo 3411 oe
Fournaha. IH 83 C3
Fattorla dal C.Cro TllO Ca
Flanasan Family 3<1
11
91
Fourlljlht LI>ndor 304 E3
Fattorla di Lamolo 177 E4
Flat Rock Colloro 2113 G4
Fourtot, Cloe 111 E3
Faut>ard. Cloe 511 F3
Flau1or1uo1, Ch da 142 Ee
Fou1110t
toa
, lea8782
Faubours da 8ouze 112 04
Flaxman WlnH 362 £4
Fow!M -114
Foucha 21
1
1101
Floch11da LooAndaa:MOE1 FoJC•Fox248G4
Fauaonl Tei C3
Flodp •Co 3711 Fa
Fox Cro
o
k36
6
04 E4
Fav"N•, IH 87 83
Flour·do· Gay. la 1011 oa
Foll FIN FIJ'mt 32e M
Fawtey 2411 F4
Flour!• a5 Fa 73 ca 74 ca
Fo•Aun326114
Fay Vineyard 316 82
75 C5
Foxon 320 E3
Fazonda Prtdlo 1112 G2
Fi.url.,..1. I•• e4 F4
Foxoyo Hantout :1
11
1F5
FeatMratone Estate 293 G4 Flomborn 238 F3 2311 B1
Fralrlo, la 70 C3
Fkhy 2a2 Ea
FIOnholm 238 F2
Framlnsham 373 112
Fodolloa do Couto 192 G3
Flora Sprlnp 313 G5
Franc;emont 69 F6
FNly, Ch 113 E5
Florentino 188 £6
Francesca Cutaldl 16e G4
Frloa, Cloa Dom 146 04
Florida, Uruguay 330 Ea Ell
Franeeaco Br1pttl 1Mli F4
Fqulne, Clo• de la 62 C4
Florida, USA 21
1
006
Franceaco Poll 166 C4
Fohrln1 265 F4
Florlmont 127 B1 82
Francho·Comto a3 C5 05
F"lnea·Jourdan, Dom de
F1or10 184 F2
Francia 183 E5
142 F4
Fiorita 363 02
Franclacorta 167 06 166 E1
F'41ll LONnzo Cachazo
FIOrahelm Dalshelm 238 G3
Franc11 Ford Coppol• Winery
(Carraavlllu) 111
11
G5
239 C2
307 C5
Fala, Auotrla 25a B4
Flowera3070102
Franclacan 314 E4
Fala, Germany 221
1
81
Foctanr 273 C6
Franclaco Zarco 327 E!i
Fo!Hn 231
1
B182
Fohrenbors 246 02
Franck Polllot 1a2 B4
FelHn, Inden236G1
Fol11tt•N1, le1 60 F4
Franco Pacentl 179 85
Folaonbors 235 G2
Foley321 B4
Franco, Dom 38
8
D3
Fel1enec:k 236 Fe
FoU•.Domdela68Ae
FraJl4ioll Chldalne 121 C5
Foloonkopf231 G2
Folio, la 121 M
Frafl90ll Cotat 123 93
Folaonatoy9r 235 F3
Follette, la 307 C4
Fr�• Lumpp, Dom 68 08
Fel11na 1TI G5
FOllrc 280 Fl
Franc;oi1 Pinon 121 A4
Felton Rood 375 06
Fondemen1, ... 87 C1
Franc;<>• Roquttlet, Dom 88 Be
FenHtra 317 A3
Fondla, las 120 01
Frandat, Ch de 115 03
Fonha Ch 31
18
A6
Fondrtcha, Dorn do 135 C4
Frangy 162 A5
Ferme Blanche, la 146 06
Fonpant 131 A4 114
Frank Cornelissen 185 A5
Fermt.r 386 CS
Fonaalade, Ch 141 A4
Frank Fanuly 311 B2
Formoy 349 ES
Fon11lette, Ch de 135 82
Franken 223 E3
Fernando de Castilla 206 06
Fonaeca Internacional
Frankenthal 236 F1
Ferngrove 347 F3
Vin-. JMda 215 E5
Frankland Eata.te 347 G3
Ferrandes 184 G2
Font de Michelle, Dom 137 F3 Frankland River 347 F3
Ferrari 166 C5
FontduBroe,Ch147C3
Frankste1n 126 C4
Ferrari Carano 307 B4
Font du Loup, Ch da lo 139 E5 Franschhook 383 06
Ferrelro, Oo 193 C4
Font Sano,Dom137C5
Franschhoek Valley379 F3
Ferrer Bobet 202 05
Fontaine de Vo1ne, la 65 Gl
38306
Ferrer RJbr•re. Dom 145 E4
Fontaine Sot 80 G2
Frontz C�Dome9 E3
Ferret,JA7004
Fontanafredda 163 C4
Franz Hus 167 Ee
Ferrocinto 182 C4
Fontanel, Dom 145 03
Frucat1 173 F4
Fert6szentm1kl6& 283 B2
Fontanile 163 03
Fraser GallOp 349 ES
Ffflea, Ch do 118 ES
Fonteny 66 B4 85
Fraser Valley 2116 ES
Fo11 Parker 321 B6
Fontevraud - l'Abbaye 116 C6
Frauenberc 239 C3
Fetzer 304 E4
Fontodl 177 E4
Frauenllrten 257 83
Feud1�sanGreeono18385
Fontvort , Ch 136 ES
Frauonvund 269 F2 F3
Foudo 185A4
Fontts Pool 347 F2
Frauenwe1nprten
Fouo-rs. Badon 245 Cl C2 Foppiano 307 CS
2S7B3C3C4
Feuerbera:. RhelnheaNn
Foradori 186 A5 167 F4 G4
Frechau 259 02
239 81
Fo-1 344 Dl
l
Fr4diir6c Lornet 161 05
Feuerltt 243 F3
Fon;a Real, Dom 145 E3
Fredanc Mabrloou 120 02
Feuaselottea, lea 65 F4
Forc1ne, la 120 01
Fredanckabur1 326 85
F•vo•. I• e2 cs
Forest Grove 29a C2 297 C3
Fre
ed
om Hill Vineyard
Flano d1 Avethno 182 B3
Foreat Hill 347 G3 G4
297 E2
183 88
Foreater Estate 349 06
Fro
oman
307 E6
F1uco 163 03
Fortts 79 F3
Fro
o
rnarkAbbey313E4
Flchot, Dom 69 04
Forlts, lei, Ladolx 63 06
F-e 307 F4
F1chots, lea 63 B3
Fol'fto. In, Nults ·St·GeorpM Fre
eet
one Hill Vineyard
Ficklin 303 04
64F3
307 F4
Flddlehud 320 F2
Fort
ts
. SurIM630606
Frtgata,Domdo146E3
F1ddletown 318 B6 C3 C4
Forp Cellara 325 C5
Fre1nshe1m 241 B4
Fidolltas 298 G2
Forsaron 30
0
B6
Froraa d'Aab 157 E3
Ftefs 53 01
Fors•s. Dom das 118 Cl
Fre1sa d1 Chi.,.
.
157 E3
Fre&f 171 06
Forg•s. les 61 E2
Fre1xenet 201 E4
F1oldlng Estates 293 F3
Fons 296 G2
Frelxo de Espada & C1nta
F
i
eldln& H1ll1 295 �
Fol'jas dol Saines 193 C3
212 F6
F1�res. les 63 C3
Forman 313 F6
Frek>nner1e, la 121 03
F1ghtln1 Gully Road 3511 86
Formentera 188 GS
Froml...
.
a.leo65F566C2
Flguoru, Cloa 202 C4
Forrts 21
15
G3
Fremlers, IH 61 F5
Fillgara, le 177 E3
Fotftat Estate 373 82
F.-.miets 61 F5
Flllpa Pato 217 C2
For1t 241 84
Fremont303C3317A2A3
Fillaboa 193 04 E4
Forst an der We1nstruH
Frtres Couillard 117 F3
Fllllatreau Dom 119 F4
242 E3
Freudhofor 260 E4
Flnca Allende 199 G4
Forstbera: 226 F4
Froundst>Jck 242 E3 F2
Flnca Decaro 330 C2
FOrsterlay 233 C3
Froy 304C3
Flnca Elez 188 E5
Fort Roos 307 02
Freyc1not 36
6
E3
Flnca Fllchman 340 C3
Fort Rou·SHvteW
Frlck 307 84
Flnca la Carrodllla 327 E4
307 C2 02
Frickenhauaen 247 C4
Flnca La Colla 340 Fl F2
Fort, Oom le140C6
FModolahatm 241 B4
Finco Lu Nuboo 339 C4
Fort1a, Ch 139 F3
Frlenda Celler 279 E4
Finea Quara 33g C5
Fortino 317 03
Fr..Hnhelm 238 E3
F1nca Sophonla 340 01
Fortuna. La 335 01 02
FNOnnoa, let e<l 02 03
Flnca SuA1 340 F1
Forty Hall 2411 F4
Frtnch 200 G5
Flnca Valpledra 19� 82
F<>aaacollo 179 C4
Fritz 307 114
Flnca Vlladellop1 201 F4
Fossati 183 02
Frtuh Aqullela 195 06
Flnca Vl�oa 1112 G2
foaHl,IH61E2
FrtUll Colli Orlontal1
F1ndlln1 240 04
Foeter Lorca 340 C2 C3
165 C5Cll
Fin•• Aochea, Ch dH 139 F4
Fouc:Mres, les 66 F4
Frluh Grave 1815 O&
Flnpr Lakea 32a B3
Foupray, le 121 84
Frlull laonzo 196 08171 E4
Flnot, Dom 152 oa
Fouaueyrollea 113 &4
Frlull U.tloana 165 06 E5
FinottH, IH 67 85
Foujouin 121 84
FrlullVenezla Glulia 16
6
06
Fiorita, 11 1711 ca
Foulot, en 59 02
1n0304
Flrenzo 173 113 84171 114
Foulot, I• 82 04
Fl'O
OM
127 C4
Flrepoak Vineyard 320 C2
Foundry, The 383 Fl
Frol'• L- 314 04 E4
Flreltood 297 E3
Founv 262 F4
Frotmore c..
..
.
k386F2
FIN1tone 321 Be
Four Mlle Cre
e
k293F6
Frotchots. lea 66C2
Flrriato 184 E2
Fourt:haum. 79 C3·04
Fromm 373 C2

406
GAZETTEER
Fronhof242 C2
Gauby, Dom 1'46 D3
Glen Manor 323 06
Gramp1a1 281 02
Grey1ton• 371 F3
Holnbul'l
l
265C8
HlwUDolx,lea86F4
Fronsae860410ISC4116C6 GauchchotsoulaTlche,I..
Glenelly 383 03
Gran Canar6a 1Q1 G2
Greyton 379 G3
H01612e3C3
Hout&Jorrono8381
Fruhtlnp
pl
lbch.n
235F4G6
85 F3
Glonau1n 386 D4
Gron Clos 202 04
Groywocke 373 C2
H0j61 Baja 283 C3
Hauta Marconneta, les
Fryor's Cove37VClD1
Gaudlchoto, In 116 F2
Glonoro 326 C4
Gran Feudo 197 05
Gr1k:h Hlll1 314 E4
Holbturn 265 C8
821!18CB
Fuchs 228E2
Goudrolle, Ch 121 C1
Gl,nouie 118 C5
Grand CJ01 Rou1Hau 69 02
Grlfl
l
th344E6
Halenber1 234 615
Hout& Polrwts, In 84 F4
Fuchlbers 236 G3
Gaudrelle, la 121 83
Glenrowon 344 F5 35g A6
Grand Cr61, Dom du 141 C2
Gr111t 271 D6
Halewood 273 04
H11Jt1 Pl'Uliert, IM"84 F4
Fucholoc:h 290 G4
GauJal 142 F3
Glonwood 383 D6
Grand or.,on 388 F6
Grl1"•n-le1 -Adh•mar129 G2 Halfpenny Groen 249 E3 F3
Hauvet:te, Dom 148 A3
Fuchsmontol 242 02
Gautney, lo Clot 81 E3
GIOon MontonlO, Ch 141 D3
Grand Enelo1 95 E5
Grl1nollno d'A.ttl 115� C4
Hall 313 G6
Hovalock North Hiiis 36g C6
FuMo, los 65F5
Gavalaa 281 E4
Gllnavoa 281 82
Grand Ll1trac 97 F2
Grl1nollno del Monforrato
Hallernt 317 02
Hawaii 290 02
Fuen- 19& C3
GavellH, Ch dH 148 86
Gloek 240 E5
Grand Mayne, Dom du 113 E4
C•••l•H 157 E3 1511 A3 A4
Hallobuhl 280 F4
Hawk&Hora•304FB
Fuenteaplna 195 C4
Govl 157 F4
Gloeckolber1127 CB
Grand Mont 120 C3
Grille, Ch do lo 120 F4
Halter Ranch 320 B1
Hay Shed Hill 349 E5
Fuertev.ntura 191 F3
Gavoty, Dom 147 C2
Glo11"ltz 256 04
Grand Nicolet, Dom 137 85
Grille, la 120 F4
Homboch 241 C4
Hayuhl 388 C5
FulsH55F589G47004
Gaydo,Dom14005
Gloria Ferrer 309 E3
Grand Tokoj 286 E4
Grlllenparz Hund 259 E1
Hambledon 249 G4
Hayaotan (Armonoo)'07 C5
Fulsa•, Ch de 70 04
Gaziantep 286 G5
Gnekow 318 02
Grand Valley 326 A4
Grlnou, Ch 113 E6
Hamoau do Sl-.ny 80 F4
H- Flmlly361 C3 C4
Fujlclalr 387 B4
Goblln1 259 D2 D3
Gooty Hiil 368 D1 D2
Grande Borne. la 59 F4
Grlnzane Cavour 163 84 85
Hamelin Bay 347 F1
Haywlro 21
12
F5
Fukuyama Wine Kobo 386 04 Gedorodorf255 B4 25g C4
GOcklln1en 241 D3
G�nde Ca11 ..ne, Ch 136 F1
Grlnzln1 256 86
Homeo Valley 303 E4
HU41ndal 383D1
Fuk:ro 193 C3
Gnlon1344 G4 35g D3
Godeaux, les 63 82
Grando C6to, la 123 B3
Grlotto Chambertln BB C4
Hamilton Russell SM G!i
Hulitt 1852 325 C5
Ful11"• 179 85
Gehrn 237 E3
Godoval 1;2 G4
Grand• Malson, Ch &a 113 E5
Grltschenberg 260 E4
Hamptono, Tho 324 Ga
HdV 311 F8
Fulkerson 325 C4
Geloraloy 231 04 05
Godorf 227 AB
Grande Montqne. la 69 F6
Groenekloof37; E1
Handley 304 02
HoJinZun390B384
Fully 253 G2
Geisberc 127 C5
Go1aaes, Clos des 83 04
60 F1
Gr6f Depnfeld 266 G3
Hangtn1 Rock 35g C4
HeLanQin&Xuo390B3
Funchlll Z16 03
G01senhelm 23B E2 G3 G4
Golan Hel1hts 287 D6
Grande Provence 383 06
Gro
o
t Con1tantla 380 85
Hanna 307 C6 E6
Healesvdlo 34
4
G5 3611 C5
Funky Chateau 386 C4
Gelsse 331 F4
Golan, Ch 287 D5
Grande Rue, la e5 F2
Groote Post379 F1 F2
Hannay 384 D3
383 C5
FuranoWine386A6
Gelondzh1k 277 1!3
Goldatzel 236 F4 F5
Grande Vll"•s, les 67 B3
Gros des V1gnea, le 133 84
Hannet"ldorf'265 E5
Heart&Hands326B5
Furlelgti 249 G3
Gelver1 285G4
Goldblchol 242 E2 E3
Grande, la 386 04
Gros No... Dom du 148 04
Hane Herzo& 373 82
H..rtoftheDoaert326B4
Furstentum 127 83
Gemlrk 260 F3
Goldbe� Burgonlal
ld
281 C6 Grandu Butoa, les 1Z1 A4 A5 Groaellles, IH 85 F5
Hansenber• 236 F4
Heathccte 34
4
F4369B4
Fi.Jrstltches Pri.dtum 260 F4
Gembro
o
kHiil383E5
Goldberc, Oanzorn 259 D1
Grandes Loh•res, les 63 C5
Groa1 289 F3 G3
Honzell 309 C3
Heathcote Estot<i 359 B4
Futo 314 F4
Gemtru 356 04
Goldber1 Kromstol 259 C1
Grandes Places. les 131 A5
Grosser Hengelber1
Hoppa 349 08
Heathcote 11 369 84
GenaiYNtires. aux 65 G1
Goldberg, Loithaborg
Grandes Ruchottes 59 F5
231 E2
Happy Canyon ofSanta
Huthcote Winery 359 B4
Gabala 277 ce
Genavr1'rea, le& 66 92
280 E3 G3
Grandes Vi1nes, les e1 E1
Groner Herrgott 231 C6 05
Barbaro 320 E3 3Z1 B5
Hoathvale 361 0835203 04
Gabar1nzt1 260 F5
Genet , Clos 59 E2
Goldberg, Neustedlerse
e
Grandmaison, Dom de103 E4 Grosset 353 E2
Haramo 387 B5
Hobe1 388 A6
Gabriele Aausse 323 G4
G�on62C6
280 E5
Grands Champs, lea,
Grosset Gala 353 02
Haras de Plrque 334 C4
Hecker Pass 317 03
Gobritlskloof384 E5
Geneva 325 B4
Goldbefog, R"9mgau 23B F5
Puligny Montrachet 60 G4 Grosset Polish Hill 353 C2
Hard Row to Hoe 295 A5
Hecklingen 245 AS
GodOlne 135 D3
GeMve251C1252�4
Goldberg, Rhelnhessen
Grands Champs, las. Vofn(lV
Grosset Watervale 353 02
Hordtberg 226 F2 G2
Hedges Family Estate 298 G2
Gad..s P•re &: Flis 117 F2
Genevnns O.asous, les
239A3B2B4C204
61 F4
Grosahoubech 247 C2
Hardy's Tlntara 356 04
Hodong. Ch 390 A4
Gaohc Cemetry 353 C1
80G5G6
Goldberg, Saar 229 C1
Grands Charrons, les 61 F1
Gro&1h6fle1n 255 C5
Harewood 347 G3
Heprty Chamans 141 B2
Gaaeac·et Rou1111e 113 ES
GenevriSeg Des
s
us, les 60 F6 Goldbuhol 269 F3
Grands Clos, les 59 FS
Gros
s
korlboch 241 B4 243 G2
HarlaftlS 281 C4 283 F6
Heggioa 352 E4
Gqo ITolmo AodMl\JOZ) 196 F3 Genevn•res et le Suehot, les Golden Ball 359 A6
Grands Devers, Dom des
Groth314 E5
Harlan 314 F4
Heldo 261 C3
G.,a281E5283F6
63 C3
Golden Mtk• Bench 292 G6
13S A3
Grub 269 AS
Haro188C4198A6199F3
Hell 239 A3
G..a Pnnc1pe 161 C3
Gent11inl 281 C2
Golden• Luft 240 05
Grands Eeh•zeaux, les 65 F3
Gruenchers, les 65 F6 66 C2
Harrison Hill Vineyard
Heilbronn 2-44 C6
Galney 3Z1 C5
Gentle Folk 356 84 C4
Goldeneye 304 E2
Grands Epenots, les e2 Cl
Gruet 326 B4
298E4
Heihgen Hluachon, am 239 E4
Galsberi 257 Cl
GootrWoavor 356 B6
Goldert 126 EM
Grands Llards, aux 63 B2
GMlnstadt 241 B4
Har
ro
w & Hope249 F4
Helll&enbaum 240 E4
Gaisbera. Kamptal259 96
Goc1rophe 347 E2
Gold1rube 233 B5
Grand& Mur1, les e5 F5
Gruyaehes. les 80 G6
Harsovo 274 F2
He11tgenberc 237 E1 F1
Go1&berC, Kremstol259 E1 F2 Georgu 281 08
Goldkaul 226 G2
Grands Plcotms 63 C1 C2
Gualdo dal Re 175 E5
Hart & Hunter 366 C4 C5
He1hgenste1n 269 84
257 85
GOOl'lfOS Dubo
o
uf74C6
Goldach1tz 233 G2 G3
Grands Polaots. IH el F5
Gualeguayehu 330 E5
Hortber1268 DI!
Holllgkreuz 239 A3 A4
GalsbOhl 242 G3
Goer&•• Rood 371 F2
Goldtr6pfch•n 231 ca C4
Granda Terres , les 59 G6
Gualtollary 340 D1
Hartenberg 383 D2
Heimbach 245 A5
GOJspfad 233 08
Goo"llo 290 C5
Golcfwlnprt 233 C2
Grands Vlgnes, lea &4 F2
Guardiola 186 A4 A5
Hartford Family 307 E4
He1mbera: 236 F1
Gala Estate 386 E3
Gerard Boulay 123 B3
Gollot, en 61 B1
Grands·Champs les 61 E2
Guastaferro 183 A5
Hartley Ost1n1 Hitching Post
Heimbourg 127 81
Galambos 265 F3
G•rard Charvet, Dom 74 C6
Golop 285 E1
Granp de Quatre Sous, la
Guatombu 331 G3
3Z1 C4
He1mershe1m 238 F2
Galont. 317 F3
G'rard Mouton, Dom 68 E6
Gola255C6290E6
141 B2
Guoberschwlhr 126 E4126 B4
Hartwell 316 C2
Heiuenste1n 126 A1
Galantm. Dom le 148 E4
Gerard Parizo. Dom 68 08
Gomera,la191F1
Granp des Piires _ Dom de la Guobwlllor 126 F3 12B A1
Harveys 205 06
Hertz Wine Cellars 313 G!i
Galardi 182 A2
Gerbeaux, Dom dea 70 C3
Gomi 387 A5
142 04
Guenoc Valley 304 F6
Harunletten 257 C1
Helan Mountatn 390 C3
Galatlna 182 C6
Gerla, lo 179 B5
G6nnhe1m 241 EM
Grangehurst 383 F2
Guerch•re S9 F5
HAschon 231 E2
Held231 F1
Galet des Papee, Dom du
Germ•t.s. les 67 82
Gonzalez Byus 206 06
Gran1anauve. Dom de 135 A2 Guerets, les 63 C3
Hoso Dom 386 C5
Helenenkloster 23
3
G2
139E3E4
Gerovaastllou 281 83
Go
o
HWatch325B6
Granite Belt 346 92
Guerlla 288 E3 F3
Hasel 259 A4 B6
Heller Estate S17 F3
Galgenber1 259 B5
GerUmpel 242 E2
Gooaeerou Cellars 311 05
Granite Hel1hts 323 E8
Gu•ripes, las 66 F2
H..
.
IFOV0355D5
Holvkla 283 C4
Gal1 285 F3
Gestuhl 245 B2
G6rbe·Boko6 265 G3
Granite Springs 318 86
Gu•s d'Amant las 121 B2 83
Hasenberg & Steingruble
Hemol·on".-.
.-
Aldge 384 FB
Gal1I Mountain 287 06
Getar1ako Txakolina 188 C4
Gordon Estate 299 E2
GranJa Amareleja 219 FS Fe
Guetottes 63 A1
2458283
Homol on-Aorda Valley 384 F5
Gallppe, la 120 Ge
G..
..
.
llJoVolondovo 287 G6 Gordonne, Ch la 147 02
Grans Muralles 201 E1
Guettes, aux 63 A2
Hasenblss 239 B4
Hemera Estate 351 03
Galtzlberc 257 CIS
Gevroy Chllmbert1n S6 CB
Gorps de Narvaux, les 60 F6 Grant Burp 351 D3
Gueuleplnes., las 66 C6
Hasenlaur239 83
Hendolbef'S 236 E6 237 E1
Galleca Carrahola 20S 04 E4
8886
Gor1 Z17 C6
Grape Republic 3Be 86
Gutfens Heynen, Dom 70 B2
Huenaprung Rhemgau
Hendry 311 F5
Galloty, Dom 135 A1 A2
Geyersberg 239 A3 A4
Gorlika Brdo 288 04
Graplllon d'Or, Dom du 137 C6 Gu1helmo 317 C3
23BF5G4G5
Henpt 126 B6
Galhna 161 B3
Geza Lenkey 265 F2
Gor1ika Brda o Brda 171 C5
Grassa, Dom 115 E2
Guido Marsella 183 84
Hasensprung, Rhemhesaen
Henkenberg 246 C2
Gallo,E&J303C4
Gfan,.r 291 C4
GonZl• 186 08 171 08
Grasses T6tas. les 67 83 B4
Gullhem, Ch 140 06
239 A3 A4
Henners 249 G4
Gallo Two Rock Vineyard
Ghommo 158 G3 G4 157 04
Gorman 295 A.3
Grushopper Rock 376 E6
Guilh,mas. Dom 114 Fe
Hukell 383 F3
Henri Bonneau, Dom 139 E3
307 F6
Ghlelmettl Vineyard 317 A3
Got
to
rdi 187 E5
Grusmj Family 321 86
Gulllemot Michal, Dom 69 CS Hassel 237 F1
Henri Bourpois 123 83
Galuehee, les 120 D3
Ghioroc 273 C2
Gottoaacker 237 F4
Gruwec 127 CS
Guillot Broux, Dom 69 CS
Hastlnas River 346 02
Henri at Paul Jacqueson,
Gomocho 298 F5
Ghost Rock 3815 01
GotteafUH 229 83
Gratallop• 202 04
Gufmaro 192 G3
Hastlnp, Australia 359 04
Dom 68 B6
Gama1re1, IH 66 Fe 66 Cl
G1achln1 183 C3
GOt
t.
leebrunn 266 C6
Gratlen & Meyer 119 E4
Gu1ot, Ch 135 F1
381 Etl
Henri Lurton 327 E6
Gamay, sur 60 E3
Giachino, Dom 152 C5
Gottschollo 25g F1 F2
Grattamacco 176 85
Gu1roullh. Clos 115 Gl
Hastings, New Zealand
Henri Natter, Dom 123 D2
Gombellor1 185 E3 1B9 G4
Gl-.conda 369 88
GOtzenfola 236 F5
Graubi.Jnden 251 85
Gujosc 188 E5
387 C5 389C4
Henri, Clo• 373 Cl
Gambino 186 85
G1acoea 161 E3
Goubert. Dom lee 137 CIS
Grauvea 83 F3
Gulbanl1 274 04
Huznos 265 E2
Henriques &. Henrlquu
Gamoto, 1.. 61 E2
Giant Perlwlnklo 379 G3
Gouin, en 60 03
Gravalns, aux 93 82
Gulf Islands 292 C5
Hatalos 266 F3
221 D2
Gamlrt:z 265 F3
Giant Stopa 383 C6
Goujonne la 69 Ge 80 G1
Grave, Ch la 141 C1
Gulft 184 G5
Hltea, los 59 E3
Henry Estate 296 F2
Gamot. Clo• de 116 C4
Glar
ro
165 C8
Goulburn Valley 34
4
F5
Graves8SE388E410005
Gulor281S F3
Hato de la Carne 204 86
Henry of Pelham 293 G4
Gancio 1tl3 C3
Glbassrer. 1M e7 C2
35g"4
Gravi•rea, les 69 F4
Gumlel do IUJi 1g5 B4
Hatochboura 128 B4 B5
Henry, Dom 142 EIS
Ganevat. Dom 161 G3
Glbbston 375 04
Goulot&, lea &e 88
Gravlllu, Cloe du 141 83
Gumlel de Mercado 196 84
Hottln1ley Valley 249 G3
Henschke 351 CB 352 D3 D5
Ganja · Gazakh 277 C6
Glbbston Valloy 375 04
Goulotto, lo t11 D3
Gravner 171 De
Gund-1344 E6
Hattotott 125 E4 128 B4
Henschke Lenswood 35e Bi
Gonau 368A4
Gibraltar Rock 347 G4
Goum"11Ha 281 A3
Gray Monk 2;2 E5
Gundho1m 238 G3 239 C3
HotzJdaklS 281 ES
Hentley Farm 361 C3
Ganeu Moen E1tat11 388 84
Glbscn 351 B5
Gourpzaud, Ch do 141 1!2
Gru 265 E3
Gundloch"Bundschu 309 D3
Hotzlmk:halis 281 C3
Honty 344 G3 369 D1
Gop1tod 35g 8tl
GleHn 373 82
Gourt de Mauten1, Dom
Graziano Family 304 E4
Gundo1 Eetate 365 04
Houpdorf 255 A4
Happlnpn 228 F6
Garance, Dom de la 142 F3
Gl1ondu 136 C3 137 C6
137 B5
Gro
o
t Southern 347 G3
Guney 286 F3
Hauner 184 06
Hepturea, In 51 01
Garbutt• 183 04
Gl10tte, lo 61 F4
Gouttee d'Or, IH 91 F1
Groat Wall 388 03 390 C4
Gunterablum 238 F4
HauHrer, Clos 12e 86
Herbaupa, Dom dM 117 F2
G•rctn•N1. Ch de 147 03
Giibert 347 G4
Goyo Garcia Vladero
Great We1tern 3&8 C1
Gunteralay 231 C4 04
Hau..
.
tz 280 F1
Herbuee, au>e, Flxin 87 81
Gorda165E21tl8E3E5G4
Gilbert Simon 288 E4
(Bod•IU Valduero) 111& 84 GrKau>e, Dom dee 142 04
Guntramsdorf256 C5
Haut Cousn, le 121 A4
HerbuH, aux, Nufts·St
189 F2
Glllea S.rlioz 162 C5
Gruch ad Mooal 23
3
E4
GN<hons et Foutr- 83 C6 Gur1 277 C4
Haut L1au, I• 121 B3
�•tl4G8
Garda Clue1co 1ee F3
Gillmore Estate 336 F3
Graben 233 F4
GN<hono, Sur loo tl3 Ctl
Gur1un1 277 CS 279 E1
Haut·Llrou 142 06
Harbuu, IH, Chamboll•
Gardl•ro. la 120 C1
Glmblett Grovel• 3tlQ C4
Grabovac 271 C5
G"chono. Belo de 83 C6
Gurrlda 186 A4
Haut·Pkharmant, Dom du
Muolgny 86 FB G6 tl8 C1
Gard19e. Dom 145 D3
Gl�nez Mendez 332 G3
Gracclano della Seta 180 84
Greco di Blanco 182 E4
Guabourn• 248 G&
113 E5
HerbUH, IH, F!xm GT B2
Gardin•. Ch de la 130 02
Glmmekjln1en 241 C4
Grace Family 313 F4
GroeodiTufo18283183A4
Gush Etzlon 287 F5
Haut-Peyraauey, Clo1 106 F2
HerbuH. lea, Maraannay
Glirdony 286 F1
GlnHtet 113 D5
Grace Vineyard. Nlngx1a
Groek Win• CallaNI 281 Dtl
Gutenberg 238 F6 G6
Haut·Po1tou 53 02
87C3
GalWK'l9ouaurlaQ.,.
.,.
.,
,.
,Ja
Glneatra 1e3 E4
390 C3
Groen&Red31185
GutonhOlle 235 F3
Haut-Valals 263 E6
Herbuottet, lee 88 C2
BOF4
Gioia del Collo 112 B5
Grace Vineyard, Shan}(/
Groen Valley 349 GB
Gutturnlo 157 F6
Haute F'-rlo. Dom 117 F3
Hereelkut 2t18 06
Garenne, Cloe de la eo F4
GJ01tra del Vino, la 340 82
368AS
Gre
e
n Valley ofRu&11an FUver
Guy Drow 328 A4
Haute Perch•, Dom de
Herdade da Anta de Cima
Gorfteld E1tatoa 32tl A4
Gk>vannl Battiata Columbu
Graco Wine 387 1!14
Valley 307 E4
Gy6n1Y61 2tl3 B4
118 A4
21; 04
Gorpll•n1 2113 G2
188 114
Graci 185 A6
Groenock 351 83
Gyopllro
o
2116 D4
Haute Val"• de l'Aude 53 G3
Herd&de da Malhadh1na Nova
Gar11u1o 314 E5
Giovanni Pt.o.ao 185 A&
Gr-.cln (Suh1 Punta) 2n C3
Gro
o
nockCrook36183
Haute Vall4ie de l'Orb &3 G3
219 G4
Garaoulllot en IS'! G3
Glppalond 34
4
G5 Ge
Grodll'clutto 171 D6
Gr"f
f
n1tone Vineyard• 383
H Sto1norl 332 G3
Houto ·Combe. Clo1 d• 74 A5
Herdad<I du Sorvu 219 06
Glrkammor 22tl F3
G1rarc11•re1, I•• 121 M
Grafenbera. MoHl 231 C3 02
C3 C4
Haak Vineyard• & Wlnery
HautH Cance1, Dom 1.. 1 37
Herdada do [aporto 21Q Ft5
Garr11u• Dom 11 137 04
Girolamo DorllO 171 C3
Grlf'onbera l'lti.lngau 237 E2 Groenwo
o
d Rldl• 304 E4
32tl C8
1!384
Herdado do Mouchlo 211
1
04
Glrtchon 231 C4
Girolamo lluHo 116 A6
Gral'echafter Sonnenber1
Gr6fl'leux, 101 133 C4
Hurdt 241 C4
Houto
o
Colllnao de 11 C6to
Herdodo do PHO Zlll f5 Ftl
Glrthn1 :!&II C1
G1eborne 387 ee
233G1
Gr91Cry Graham 304 F5
Hoclonda Araucano 335 E1
d'Ai:ur, Dom des 147 A5
H..
..OU
edoROGtl'Y'I21;F4
Gary Forroll 307 04
G1uun1 278 F4'
Graham Beek 37g F3
Grondal, do 37g F2
Hacienda Monutorlo 1115 C3 HautM Malz1•rea er; F3
Herdade dOI Coelhetl'OI
'.8ary•· Vineyard 31'7 F4
Gluaopp• Calabreao 112 C4
Groin d'Orlont. Dom 1'46 D1
G�ullle1 ND4
Haekalaber& 280 E3 H
Houto
o
Moutotto
o
83C6
2111 1!:4
G&1qu1, Ch 14'7 C2
G1vry&&D58106
QralnhObel 242 F2 F3
Groopone Muzl 179 C&
Hadrea 2&6 A4
Haui.t-Ctlt•• de 8eaune
HerdM•- Groua :1
1
11G4
�aHan 31886
Glieu• 11e ee
Grolyn 34; E6
G..1doMontpel
l
lor14205E4 Hafher307ca
86 F2
Hordade - Outelro1 Altoa
Gat.Clo1de217F4F5
Glod1tone 387 Ctl
Gramenon, Dom 136 A3
G,.
.
aStPout143D1
H-fen 311 E5
HeutM·C6tH d• Nu1ta l'.6 �
�1; Da
Gott 362 F4
Glod1tone Vineyard 370 1!18
Gramma 273 B5
G,.
..,
ff,lut12C&93C4
Hahn317 F4
Heutea, tee e1 El
-MontodoCal 21il Ol
l
Gau.era 113 C 3
Glaetzer 3&1 C4
Gramoloro 1113 E3 E4
Gr•..,.•. aur lei e2 C4
Hahndorf Hiii 36tl D6
HauteS.
.ux
Monti, '91 156 E�
Herd•r �{=-6
Gatt1nara 160 G3 181 04
Glarua 261 86
Gromono201E4
G.revdly 8� A6
Haideboden 290 F4
HauteSrns.le"eiE3
Herd1nand 171 v6
Gau A1..lho1m 231
1
D2
Glen Carlou l83 C3
Cilromplana 34
4
G33611C2
Grey Rld1e 376 Etl
Holdattz 290 F3
Haute Champe. •• l20 r �
Hert..
.
Austraua 161 1.
.
4
r.auOdornhalm231Fa
Glon Elion 30g 82 C2
Gramp.an1 Estate 359 C2
Gray "'"do 31
1
6D102
Ha.. Martel I• ''20 Ge
Hauts de Cal
ll
evel. tes 113 f�
H•ritue. �•banon .i ll
le
F"

H•r•tl9f"t du r --mt.• l afon,
Hol
lebu
r1242 Q2 G3
IFabtH-11n04
Juo
o
n,Chdo14702
Domdot &9 E3
Hol
l
on-Sil
l
..n23SG3231
1
03 I Vllfl•r1 11& A4
JoY.Chdo14604
H•rnianr- J WI•"*' 326 C<4
Holulnmorpn 242 F2
laloveni 777 Al
Jouberti., Ch do lo 113 !6
Hermarineber1 298 G3
HoMnraln 237 F2
lq1 273 96
Jauma 3e&DI
Hormonn""6hi. 236 GS
Hohonwarth 2M B4
lco 330193
Joumo, Dom 136 13
Hormonot SUtro 111& IM
Holler "aln 2&1
1
F2
lclaho 29082
Juon Koy1 304 £3
Hermanu1 379 G3 3&4 G5
Hohorock 267 114
ldyllo, Dom do I' 162 C6
Joan DonH! 371 Q3
H•rmanu1p1•t..
.to
nr.
.
tn
H<>hlF-n 2&1
1
F2
11• 811 D3
Joan Doudlard 117 F2
384 CJ6
Hokkaido Wine 388 Ali
1anu Niodrltt 1111 OB
Joan L.on 201 E4
Herme11u 2'73 915
Holden Manz 383 Ee
lhrinpn 244 E3 246 D2 D3
Jean Manc1at, Dom e• Fl5
Hermlt..
.
129 02
HoldvOllY 286 F2
11 llorlhet
t
olnC3
Jean Mu1on & Fila, Dom
Hermttace. Dom d• t' 141 015
H611 :236 F8
llarrlo, Dom 114 G& G8
162 C&
Hermtte, 1· 133 9-4
H611o, RIJ.lnfront 240 E5
llbeaholm 241 04
Jean Vachet. Dom 88 G4
Herold 37!I F6
HOli., RM1n11au 238 F4
110 do lloouw 62 G5
Jean · l9apti1te Senat, Dom
Heron Hilt 32& C-4
HOiio, Saar 2211 112
lie d•• VarplHMI 83 83
141 82
Horronbor, 240 G5
HOllonbor1238 E1 F1
Ito Marpux, Dom do I' 1111 A4
Jaan -Clauda BreH•re. Dom
H•rronbor1, Ahr 228 G2
HOllonbrand 231
1
82
llllnol1 2110 84
86 "8
Horronbol'l. ltadon 245 A6
Hollorln 267 84
lllmltz 2&6 C6 280 G4
JHn -Franc;:o1a Quanard
Harrenb•r&. Sarnka•t•I
Holllck 387 08
t11i.y 315 A2 82
1&2C&
233 C2 C&
Holloron 297 C4
Im Gro1Hn Garten 2"43 Gl
Jaan - Lou11 Oanol1, Dom
Harrenbara, Pfa/z 242 B2
Holly'• Hiil 318 84
lmorotl 277 C6
140 E6
Harrenber1. Plesport
Hollywood & Vino 311 C3
lm�rial HorM 390 C3 C.
Jean Marc Burp.ud, Dom
231 84 1l6C4
Holm Ook 38e 02
lmpfhngen 241 04
74 E4
Herrenbar&. Saar
Hombur1 247 C3
lnclaeHbla, I' 89 E3
Jaan- Paul Brun,Dom73G6
221lA48203
Homo Hiil 386 F2 G2
Indiana 290 B4
JMn-Plarre Gau1Hn. Ch
Harrenbarpr 22Q Cl 02
Homma Mort , I' 7g C4
ln1elha1m 238 D2
148 04
H.,-ranbuck 246 C3 C4
Homme,d.DomloF�117F3
ln1eraholm 126 E4 127 C1
J..nneret 3a
a
01
Horrongorton 240 Fe Ge
Homme, I'. Hermitage
lnllonook 314 E4
Joanroudo 131 D2 D3
HarNnmor1en 242 A1 Bl
133 B6 C6
lnarandH 11e 84
Jobool, Cloe 127 111
Haf't'9n1tuck 246 C2 C3
Homme, I', Lo/re 117 A1
lnkerman 2n 82
Jolf'Runqulot Wino• 311 116
HerNnwa& 127 B1
Homs. Dom d' 116 C4
lnnl1k1llln 293 F6
Jolforaon 323 F4
Harraottaacker 242 F2
Honeytro
o
365C5D6
ln1url�I 273 05
Jeml"Olie 308 B1
243 E3 F3
Hom& 31'4 E4
lntoll•IO 381 C4
Jonko351 D3
Harrnbaumprtan 256 A5
Honlprg 233 E1
International Winery 388 Ae
J1nkyn Place 249 Go4
Herrnshalm 238 G3 239 C4
Hop Kiln 307 DS
lntrlga 334 C4
J1raz da �Frontera 188 F2
Hervalets, In 67 82
Hope Estate 3S6 D4
lnurrlata197 B5
206 06
Her:ichelm 241 84
Hope Famoly 320 A2
Inwood Estates 326 BS
Joroz X,,.
.
, Sherry 1S8 F2
Herzo1enburg 256 84
H6ra 283 G2
lona 384 E4
Jorlko 304 E3
HHketh/St John's Rd 351 84 Horacio Slm0.1 216 E6
loppa 16S F3
Jarmann 171 C4
Heu Collacbon Winery
,HOreckor 229 82
lowa 290 B4
Jaruaalam 287 F5
311 F4
Horltschon 265 D6 2S1 C4
lphofen 247 C4
JHS••sGl"OW318D2
Ha&11sche Berptruse
HoMzon, Dom de I' 145 04
lrache 197 A4
Jessup Cellars 311 05
223 E3
Horn 239 02
lrancy 56 83 n C4
Jasu1tenberg 229 C2
Hatsz616 266 G4
Hornlllo 205 Al
lrut Domain 286 F4
Jesurtenprten, Ahr 228 F3
Heuchelhelm Kllngen 241 03
Horrwa1ler 238 E2
lrmics Basso 331 F4
JHultenprt1n, Plalz 242 E2
Haudurr 257 A3
Hore• Heaven Hiiis 29S C4
Iron Horse 307 E4
Jasu1tenprten, Rhemgau
Hew1tson 361 B4
C521
18
G621
19
G1
Ironstone V1nyards 318 04
236 G4G6
Hawttt 314 E3
Horton 323 F5
lrp1nia 182 83 183 C5
Jesu1tenhofprtan 2'43 E2 E3
H1ck1nbotham 365 CS C6
Hortus, Dom de I' 142 C5
Irvine351C6362D3F4
Jeu,leClosda87B3
Hidden Bench 293 F3
Hosmer 325 C5
Isaac, Ch 2S6 E6
Jeunelotta. la 60 F4
Hidden Volley 383 F3
Hospltalet, Ch I' 141 C6
Isabel Ettote 373 C2
Jeunee Rois, lei e6 86
Huie, Dom 387 B3
Hosszuh•&Y 266 05
Isabelle Huard, Alain at 68 B4 J1dve1 273 C3
Hierro. el 191 Gl
Hotter 261 B4
lschia 182 82
Jllin 388A6
High Constantia 380 B5
Houghton 347 F2
Isla de Manorca 188 GS
JimBarry363C1367E6
High Edon 352 F3 F4
Houghton Win• 347 C2
Ismael Arroyo 195 B4
J1npJl0347 F4
High Valley 304 E5
Houlll•res, les 60 G3
lamtr 285 F3
Jo Ru1, Dom 140 06
Hllhbank 357 C5
Housul Winery 386 A6
Isola e Olena 177 E3
Joan d'Anau1ra 202 E3
H1ghfleld Terrav1n 373 C2
Hout Bo,y379F1 F2
lsonzodel Fnuh 171 E4
Joanna• Protner 269 E2
Hichland& Rood 384 E3 E4
Howard Park 349 ES
ISS&l'ds, los 63D6
Joio PortupJ Ramos
Hightower con..
..
298 G1
Howard Vineyard 36S D5
lotanbul 285 F3
219 05 06
Hiii Famoly 311 D6
Howell Mountain 311 A3
lstenhelY 265 F2
Joaquin Rebolledo 192 G3
H�I ofGrace 352 06
Hrvatskl (Croatia! 287 E3 F3 lstttuto Acrarlo Prov San
Joblot, Dom 68 D6
Hiii Smith Estate 362 E4
Hrvatska lstra 271 B1
Michale all'Ad11e l66 BS
Joch1n1er Borg 257 81
Hiiicrest 295 F2
Hrvatsko PodunaYIJ• 267 E4
167 G4
Johan 2117 E3
Hilltops 34
4
ES
Hrvatsko Pr1morje 271 A2 B2 lstra I Kvarner 287 E3
Johannashof373 A:J
H1lmy Cellars 328 C6
Huadong 38
8
G5
Istvan Balassa 266 G4
Johann1sbrunnchan 233 F4
Hilo Nrgro 327 E4
Huailai Amethyst Manor
lttvlin Szepsy 2156 F2
JohannHrber1256 E6
H1mmelchen 226 F3
388 D3
ltata330E433
3
F5 336 F5 F6 John Kosovlch 347 C2
Hlmmelre1ch 233 02 E3 F4
Huuco3300433386
lulrls, da 365 04
Johner 370 B8
H1mmelsthron 261 B4
Hubackor 239 C2
Ivanhoe 365 04
Joie Farm 292 F5
Hinter der Burg: 267 02
Hubert Lapierre, Dom 74 04
lwanohara 386 C5
Jo1s 256 C5
Hlnterburg 127 B2
Hubertu1lay 233 C3
lxs1r 286 D4
Jok1c 271 A3
Hmterklrch 236 E1
Huchotto, la 63 D6
lz8ru131 E1
Johat, Ch 115 E5
H1nterk1rchan 'HJ7 82
Hudson River Regton 324 E4
lzmad 277 A1
Johvet , Clos du 120 C3 D3
Hlnterseiber 257 B2
Hudoon Vineyard 309 04
lzsik 263 C4
Jolys, Ch 115 Gl
H1nt6s 266 F2 F3
311 G6
lzutsu 386 C6
Jonathan Dldl9r Pablot 123 C5
HinzerlinC 298 F6
Huelva 188 F2
Jone Blanc. Ch 113 E4
Hipping 240 05
Huerta del Rey 196 86
J307 D6
Jonch8re, la 61 Cl
HIT'akawa386A5
Huet, Dom 121 83
Jabali, ol 321 C4
Joncter. Dom du 136 G6
Hlroehlma Miyoshi 386 04
Hugh Hamilton 366 D5
Jach•ras. aux 65 G2
Joncuu, Clos du 137 C5
Hlrsch Winery & Vineyards
Hughes"Baguat, Dom 151 06
Jack Estete 357 86
Jonas of Washington 298 86
307 01
Hu10 356 06
Jack Rabbit Hiii Farm 326 A4 Jones Road 361 E6
Hitom1 386 C4
Huauas at Yv.11 de Suramaln,
JackaH Hiii Vineyard 307 E4 Jones, Dom 141 E2
Hlohovec 268 G4
Dom 68C6
Jackson Estate 373 B2
Jong1aux 152 B4
Hobart 366 F2
Hu1uet de Can Fa1x11 201 E4 Jac-n Tr111
1
. British
Jonkershoek Valley 383 E3
Hobbo362 E4
HOhnorber1233 ES FS
Columbia 292 G6
Jonqu••res, Ch de 142 03
Hobbl I. Hlllick 326 C6
Hu1a 373 82
Jackson ·Trlga. Ontano
Jordan, California 307 C6
Hobbs V1ney1rd 362 E4
Hult Van Chevallorlo 381 C4
293 F6
Jordan, South Africa 383 E1
Hochilckor, Burgen/and
Hummelberl 245 A5
Jacob's Creek {Pernod
Jorp Ron Santos & Fllhoo
281C4
Hunawlhr 126 04127 C4
Ricard) 361 D3
219 E6
Hochtcker, Ktwnata/ 269 Cl
Hun1arblene 239 83
Jacoblns, Clos daa 111 02
JoH Marla da Foneeca Suc
ca
Hochbol
l
n2428182
Hunpl'ford Hiii 366 D5
Jacquas Oury 68 86
215.E4 E6
Hochber&. Badon 235 82
Hunt Country 326 C4
JacquH at Nathalia Su malza
Joa• Par 1anta 198 f=5
Hochber&. BUf'l/81
1
/afltf 281
Hunter 346 02
70 A2
JoHf Chromy 386 E2
B4CIS
Hunter dar Bur& 257 B1 B2
JacquH, Ch du 7'4 Ce
JoHf N1ad1rmayr 187 C6
Hochl»rg, Rheln-
Hunter's 373 82
Jacqulnea, laa 65 G1
JoHph Pholp1 313 F5
231
1
C4
Hurbanovo 266 G4
Jade Valley 388 86
JoHph Swan 307 E&
HCH:hhe1m am Mam 238 04
Huraau, Ch du 11; E4
Jahant 318D2
JosophohOfer 233 E3 E4
237 G3
Hur1any ll
ll
Et1
Jakon<!I� 171 C6
Jota, la 311 B4
Hochraln 258 D6
Hurley Vineyard 381 FS
Jalo, Dom do 147 C3
Joubert Tradauw 379 F4
Hochraln 267 Cl
Hu1ch 304 E2
Jalllabad (Colllabadl 277 cs
Jouelary, Ch 141 C1
Hochra1n H6hl1raban 259 E2 Hush Heath 249 G4
Jomoopart 324 F1
Jou•n11, 111 81 E2
HochHtzan 259 C1
Hut1 273 8&
Januaa, Dom da la137 £3
Jou•raa, la1 e1 G4
Hochstadt 241 D4
Huo
oy
2e1B3B4
Jan' Ventura 201 F3
Jou1la, Dom daa 141 A4
HochstraHer 267 B4
H�22all6C6
J&nlZ 368 02
Joulso 88 C4 C5
Hoddles Cro
o
k363E5
Hu--. Valo 361 CB 342 BS
Janulk 2115 A3
Jourdan & Plohard 120 G6
Holbor&2310203E3
Hyet
t
Vineyard• 29S E4
Jardin• da 191.b)'lone, IH
JournauK, I•• ee ce
Hoforthll 257 01
HydeVll1oylrd309D6311G6
116 G1
Journey WlnH 383 C&
HOfle1n 2S5C6
Jaro1J•ra1, IH 81 F6
Journey's End 383 G3
Hogue 288 Fe
ICIM 171 C4
Jarron, la 61 !1
Journoblot. en l!SO G2
H61YMZ 263 C3
I Cuttodl 186 A�
Jasper Hiil 3511 84
Jouy 1•1 Re1ms 83 A3
Jey,Oomdo116!2
�In• SchMfer Vineyard
JoyeutH, IOI 83 C6
328 Il
l
Jucheple. Oom tie 111 03
l<Mrmont31
1
3F3
..
._,
,
HHlo 217 F6
KHwr311E4El!
Ju<lp Rock 376 EIS
Kofollonla (C.phalon1a) 281 Cl
Julro:23111823
3
F1
Kor
r
aya,Ch218Q4
Juffer Sonnenuhr 231 ae
Keith Tulloch H& C4
233F1
Koll..
.
Eltate 'J(f1 QIS
Jujuy 330 D4
Kollorberl 2&7 114
Julio Kemper 217 11
16
Kollormel1ter 361 03
Jullchar 370 C4 C6
Kollybro
o
k383D3
Jullan Sch.., 384 �
Kol"9don Eotate 388 E3 F3
Jullon Sunier 73 C4
Komalpuo 286 F3
Jull•na1 65 F& 73 96 74 A&
Kemmat.r 32& l!I�
76 A6
Konllrown321C&
Julll• 73 116 74 A4
Kan Forre•ter 383 F2
Jumllla 1&8 E4
Kon Wrl1ht Collaro 2117 C3
Jun, Ch 317 84
KendallJacl<aon,t.ako304E4
JundlnL Ch 38S Fl!
Kondall -Jacl<ton, Northern
Junpnbar1280 E-4
Sonoma 307 D6
Junllfor 238 Fl! FIS 237 Fl
Kendell, N 326 C4
Juniper Eotate 3411 E5
Konnoth Volk 320 E3
Ju11y 2&2 F4
Kennewick 2115 C6 2911 Fl
Ju1tlco, la 68 CB 06
Kentucky 290 C4 C5
Justin, Auatralla 347 G3
Kenwood 309 B2
Juttln, Ca/lfomla 320 A1
K•rklro (CorfU) 281 Bl
Ju1tino'1 221 04
Kortz 236 G3
Jutruota, IH 86 E6
Ka111er 12fS A1
Juv' y Comp• 201 E4
Keatral 298 F6
Julnl Banat 267 £6
Ko1wlek 323 F4 F6
Julnoolovon1� 2811 G4
Koukl Sprln1 326 C4
KhaNb& Winery 2711 E4
K VlntnoMI 30
0
86
Khukovo (Hukovol 274 E3
Kl by GoolfHardy 35e E4
Kher.on 2n A2
K..Ch21BF&
Khoury, Ch 2M F6
Koapzleht 383 01
Khvanchkora 277 C6
Kob&j 171 C&
Kitto 283 E4
Kaolforkopf127 B2
K1cavo 267 G5
Kualer 351 84
Ktckoltkopf 236 F6
Kaf'olt 236 F4
Kidman 367 A5
KAf'orberg 269A3
K1do 38B C6
Kaikon 340 B2
K1antzhe1m 125 04127 83
Kai1orber, 267 A3
K11paraol Estate• V1nayard1
Ka1Hrstuhl 244 E1
&Winery32886
Kaltuna 373 82
K1as 351 03
K&J'rplic 263 82
K1osolber, 242 F2
Kokhet1 2n C6 279 F4
K11slln1 259 C1
Kakhet1an Traditronal
K1konas 281 A4
W1namak1n1279 E4
Kilam 284 C5
Kakhur1 Winery 279 E3
Kll1kanoon 363 Dl
Kalb1pfttcht 237 F3
Klhya 2nA1
Kaloc1k 2S& F4
Klllorby 349 ES
Kalgan River 347 G4
K1lzbarg 238 F4
Kahmna 361 B4
Klncsam 266 E-4
Kalkof'on, Pfolz 242 A1 F2
Klndarha1m 241 A4
Kalkofen, Wachau 258 06
Klndzmaraull 279 01
Kallooko 351 84
Km1 Estate 295 E2
Kall1tadt 241 84 242 A2
K1n1 Family 323 F-4
Kalpak, Ch 286 F3
Kini Forry 326 C6
Kammer 231 86
King Valley 34
4
F5359B8
Kamptal 265 G6 269 83
K1npton 334 E3
Kanun 390B3
K1ntzhaim 125 C4
Kangarllla Rood 36
6
05
K1ona Vineyards 298 G1
Kanproc !eland 34
4
F1
K1r·yann1 281 Bl
Kanonkop 383 C3
Klrily 2615 F3
Kansu 290 C3
Kirilyho1Y 2156 C5
Kanu 383 02
K1ralyudvar 265 G3
Kanzlarb9r1127 CS
Krrchbarg de Barr 126 84
Kopcsandy Family 311 D6
Kirchberg da R1beauY111•
Kapellchan 231 D4
127 C5
l<&pollonber, 243 F2 G2 G3
KirchberL Auotrra 265 B4
Karadoc 34
4
E3
Kirchberg, Badon 246 C1 C2
Karam286G3
C3 04
Karamka 281 B2
KirchberL Elomkaste/ 233 G2
Kordenokh1 279 El
Klrchberlo Rhemhessen
Kardinalsbarg 233 F3
23984
Kar1p1dl1 281 B3
Klrchber,, Saar 229 81
K&r1stos 281 D4
K1rcbanpfad 237 F3
Karlovo 274 E3
Klrchenstuck, Pfa/z242 E2 E3
Karlsber1229 86
K1rchanstuck, Rhatnhessen
Karlskopf 226 F4
239 D3
Karlitojn 268 F2
K1rchhalm 241 84
Karnobat. Sis 274 ES
Kirchlay 233 C4
Karridalo 349 G6
Klrchplatto 240 03 E3
Karrivlew 347 G3
Kirchspiol 239 83
Kart2e1 86
KlrchtUrmch1n 226 E4
Karth 277 C5
K1rchwq 2S7 Cl
Karydas 281 A1
Kirnber, 267 63
Kasol 227C4
Kirnhlll EstatH 363 C2
Khleber1246 C2
Klrrwell1r 241 C4
K111&vliros 286 E1
K1rschprtan 243 Fl F2
Kutolbor1 125 C4
Klrschheck 236 F4
Kastrl 283 F3
Klsk6r6s 263 C3 C4
Katarzyna 274 F4
Klskunhalas 263 C4
Kath1ku 284 84
K1ssomly6 263 82
Kathryn Kannady 317 B2 C2
Klstelok 263 C4
Kotnook Estate 367 C6
Kistler 307 E5
Kotoll A""rolf281 B2
Kls111n 387 194
Katsaros 281 83
Klttorle 126 A1
Kataunuma Jyozo
K1ttmann1bot'I 259 82 B3
(Arupbronca) 387 84
Kltzeck 1m Sausal 256 F3
KAtzchan 231 B6
KIUinpn 247 C4
Katzanbuckel 239 C3
Klyoaumt Shlrskawa Fujlmaru
Katzonthal 126 E4 127 81 82
386 C5
Koutz 31B D2
Kizan 387 A5
Kavaklldoro 285 FS F4 F6
K1zllar 277 B&
Kay llroth..
..
Amory
K1rtkkalti 286 F4
366 D6
K1rktarall 216 E3
Ka,yro286F3GB
K1..
..
hlr 286 F4 F6
KayHrlbot'I 127 83
Kl1mm235 G3
Koehn• 281 B3
Kltut, R�au 238 F4 G4
QAZITTll"
407
Klou.. -av 11!7 12
Klo.-1 23I M
Kl-- 23B Q4
Klein Conetantio 390 I&
Klein l<al'o
o
379 f4 Fl!
Ktetn "Iver 37g G3
Kleine Zalzo 3113 E2
Kletllrdo171C&
Kllmontl 2113 F3 F4
KllMC 171 C&
Kllnpnbor1247 Cl C2
KllnpnmUn1ter 241 03
Kllnk..
.
llrlek 311 D2
Kllpoun Vineyard 211
11
G1
KIGch 255 F4
Kloovanbura 381 ee
Kloppber1 23!1 A3
Klo1terbara. S.rnka•t•I
233C&01E1
KlottorborL Naho :236 F4
Klo
o
terborLRIJ.lngau238F3
F8 237E2
Klo1terbars. RhalnhatHn
2311 84
KlottorborL Saar 2211 113 E2
Klotterp.rton, Ahr 2211 F3
Kloatarprtan, Pl••Port 231
C5F1 F2G2
Kloataraarten, RhtlinhHHn
240 04
Kloaterlay 238 F2 F3
Klo•tarneubur1 2156 B�
Klo1tal'"MtZ 257 C4
Klo1terwo1243 F3
Knapp32ti 86
Knappsteln 363 C1
Kn11ht Granite H1ll1 369 C-4
Knllht• Brldp Vineyard
307 CIS
Knllht• vali.y 307 ce
KnJ&!ovac 2117 F5
Kobal 21S9 F3
KObo 386C4
Kobern 227 A8
Koblenz 227 A6
Kobl1va 2T7 A2
Kobyh 266 F3
Kocabat286G6
Kocan1 V1mca 287 G6
Kochar -Jq:st Tauber 244 B6
KOfu 387 84
Kol
l
Lanpn Hadmpr 269 F4
K6,t. Au•tna 259 D1
Kogl, SJovema 269 F4
Kohftd1och 266 E5
Kokkalls 283 F1
Kokotou 281 04
Koktobel 2n B3
Kollm1tz 257 C1
Kollmutz 257 C1
Komarno 266 Go4
Kompassus 217 C2
KondoITap-KopFarm)386A6
K&nprnha1m 238 E3
Kongspard311D6
KOn1p1>er1 233 ce 08
Kon1pf•s 236 Gl
KOn1pstuhl 239 82
Kl>n1pwingort 242 02
Konz22703229A2
Koonara 357 E6
Kootanays 292 C6
Kooyon1 Port Ph1lhp Estate
381E5E6
K6poros 266 F1
Korokoh6ri 283 F1
Korb 24
4
C8
Korbel 307 04
K6r1nthoa 283 E4
Korlat (Badol 1682) 271 C3
Korta Katartna 271 04 05
Kosovo 267 F5
Kosta Browne Chas
se
ur
307 E5
Kotokh1 279 E1
Kotovsk 2n A!2
K6tsq; 285 G4
Koutsl 281 E4
Kclvq6 265 F3
K6vos 265 F1
KOvetd 266 G3
KOvoshqy 26
6
C6
Koylo 334 06
Koztov1� 271 A1
Krllten 280 G3
KroJchpu 244 86
K,.
..,tl
�27104
Kril'ovtky Chlmoc 26
6
Ge
Kramer 297 C3
Kran1. do 379 F5
Kranzbot'I 240 06
Kru 28
8
F204
Krunodol' 2n 84
Kro
ooc
horiaLomo
oou
284C3
Kruoc,hona L.meaou·
Afamos 284C3
Kruochorta Lames®-laona
2B4C3
Kratovo 267 G6
Kr&utarbart 22«5 F3
Krluterhaua 233 05

408
GAZETTEER
Kretf""-38602
K..,.,.255B3257B6
259 E2
K..
.-
Olthen 261101
K..
..,
,.
tol255F5257M
2511 02
K,.
..
.
tleS2!i7B4
Kreuz 2«> G5
Krewct>ers. Bemlrastel
233 E5
Kreuzbe,.
..
Wachau 257 B3
Kreuzbltck 231
1
03
Kreuzhaide 245 03
Kreurw1nprt 231 C3
Krtophe1m 239 03
Krono379E2
Kron..-.g 242 A2
Kronos Vineyard 313 G5
Kruplno 26
6
G4
Krupp Brothers 311 05
Krupp Vi neyard 31
1
05
Kl')'m (CrlmM) 277 82 83
Kl')'msk 277 83
Kryny<:
:
hno 277 A1
Ksara. Ch 281
1
FS
K.serokambos 283 E4
Ktal-'" \ltnogro
dl
271B3C3
Kuban 277 A4 84
Kuhlman Cellars 326 C6
Kuleto 311 C5
Kumala 383 G3
Kumamoto Wine 386 03
Kumanovo2'17G5G6
Kumeu 367 AS
KummersthlJ 267 B4
Kundo309B2
Kundg 263 C4
Kup $oral>l;lllk 285 G3
Kupfergrube 236 G3
Kupp229B30102E1E2G3
Kurdamlr 277 C6
KurzbUf'I 260 F6
Kuauda 370 84
Kusunokl 38
8
C5
KutnaHeinl268F2
KUtpotka 265 04
Kuzeye.. 285 F4 F5
Kuzumak1 Wine 386 86
Kvarel! 279 E1
KWV383B4
Kylomont 383 04
Kyneton 34
4
G4 359 C3
Ky0to 366 C4
Kyperounda 284 86
L'Aurqe 107 D4
L'Hltro 107 05
\'A. Dom de 107 E4
l'Af'l
l
here. Clos de 67 C3
La Horra 195 84
Lo Horra (Rod•) 195 84
Lo Mancha 188 E4
La Mejanelle 142 E6
Lo Paz330 C4
LaAt01a3400506
LA Cetto 327 06
LA WlnH 286 G3
Luch 257 C5
La
ac
horberJ 226 Gl G2
Laballe, Dom de 116 E2
Lobeltlda 199 A1 F4
Lobet. Dom 151 G4
�aborio 3B3B4
Labrancho-Lalfont. Dom
115F2
ucerta 273 Co4 C5
Lachance. Clos 317 C3
Lacrlma di Morr-o d 'A.lba
173 C!I
Lacu1 199 C4
Ladbroko Grove 367 E5
Ladell'"& da Santa 217 Co4
LadelrH do XII CTelmo
Rodrl1uoz) 192 G3
Lodera31183
Lodolx S.
.
r11ny56089305
Lodoachn 257 C6
Lodoachn 2611 El
Lodoucotto. de 123 CS
Lootltll 320 02
Laf•r.. VJal, Dom 7'4 C4
Lafayette Plonoou, Ch 326 C6
L afuan11 283 F8
La1"t
t
e THton, Ch 11& F2
laff'ont, Dom 11
1
SF2
Laftto 93 84 C4
Laf'lte'1 �nl1&1 E1tat•. Ch
38
8
F&
Latklotla 283 Fe
La�a 208B5
L1fond J2 Co4
Lafond Aoc (pine, Do"'
139 G�
Lafou 200 Ge
L""'°"l/eyrol\01, Dom14804
L.,.,- de Be1.an.a 334 '"
"
'J
Lqar
de Pintos 1�3 M
l..
.
rclo34082
L..
..
r11
1
'F6
IqiorMeredithJ11E4
qoc:1i
i
,.
.;
art>a1
·a1h'.IPi1
�208F4
L.
.a
a.208F4
L..
..
.
zet
t
o,Ch115C4
Lquordlo 1119 A2 Fii
L..,.
..
..
..
Dom 141
1
02
Lolboch 383 C3
Loldtero, Dom \1 148 E6
Laird, The 351 83
Loke Chelan 29S A5
Lake Chelan Winery 295 A.5
Loko Erle 324 E3 E4
LakeEMNorthShore2113E1
Lakes Entrance 34'4 G6
Lokea Fo\ly 386 05
Lakewo
od
325 C4
Lalonde do Pomorol 85 04
109 "3
Laltkos 281 A.4
Lol\6tls 283 E4
Lamartine. Ch 115 C4
Lamberdl 179 86
Lambert Br1dp 307 C4
Lambertuai.y 233 F1
Lamborn Family 311 A3
Lambots. les 61 E6
Lombr1Y1. Clos d.. 66 B2
Lombruscod1Sorbora185F2
Lambrusco Gruparossa di
Casteivotro 185 G2
Lombrusco Montovona 185 F2
Lambrusco Salamlno d1
SantaCroce166F2F3
Lome Do\lslo Baucard 120 C4
Lomezi• 182 04
Lamm 259 84
Lammershoek 381 C4
Lamole la Villa 177 04 E4
Lamont 347 C2
Lamon:rie St·Martln 113 E5
Lamoreaux Landin&325 C6
Lon 199 B2
LonSoul390C4
Lancutor 307 C6
Lonee'• Vineyard 31
1
3B3
Lancement 131 B4
Loncl•73C57406
Loncyro,Chdo142C5
Landau 241 04
Landau du Val 383 06
Londo,Dorndela120C2
Lande, la 120 C2
Landmark 309 A2
Landonne. la 131 B5
Landron, Doms 117 F3
Landi')', Clos 62 C3
Landakrono 22e F6
Landakro
on
383 83
Lone, Tho 356 06
LonpdeDuoro195C6
Lanpal•116ee
Lan1•berl·Garc1a 379 F6
Lon1enborc 237 E4
Lonpn\o\s 256 B4 259 83
Lenpnk>nsh91m � D4
Lanpnmora:en 242 F2
Lanpn•tuck 237 E3 F3 F4
Longhe 167 F3 159 E3
LaflChorne Cro
ok
34
4
F2
Lon1l011 Chltoau 119 E3
Lan1rnet1 351 C4
Lonltry 304 F6
Lon11Jodoc 142 E3 141 B4
Lan1uettea. let 63 C4
LanKaran Aatara 277 De
Lanny,Ch39083EM
Lantldet 283 F6
Lantl1n1• 73 C4
Lan1a1& (T9'mo Rodrl1uezJ
199 A2
Lanzarote 191 Fo4
Lanzerac 383 E3
Laona Akama 28'4 B3
Lapa dos GalvO.
.
219 06
Lapeyr'9, Clos 115 Gl
L1peyro, Dom 1 14 Fii
Lapl1 285 F3
Laporte, Dom 145 E4
Lorllllu 81 01
Lar1ll\16re, on 82 C1 C2
L1rkmHd 311 82
Lorno,.
.
284C6
Larreta, lea 118 c1
Lor
roy
doNampoMlon,lo111C1
Larrey, au fJ7 A3
Larry Cheruhtno 349 D&
Lai CompuerU.1 3'40 82
LuVino349E5
LHceux, Ch 142 Ctl
Luenbof'I 246 C3
La1Hter Family 309 92
Lutoura. Ch de 141 �
Lateh•m 311 GO
Latour- de France 14& 03
L•tw- 2811 G4
Latte. •n 97 A6
Latzlll 283 f2
Laubenh4Nm 234 [)4
Loudamu•borl 231 E2 FS
Loudun 136C2 138 E�
Laulhtn1 ..
.
tock 292 Fl
autan ..
.)(
icie 13f-o4
Laulerle. Ch 113 04
Ll1U 281A3
L•umer1Mlm 2�1 84 243 F2
Llllot 256 F3
Laura Hartwig 336 Dl
L1an• 116 83
Laurel Glen 308 B1
Llanoo, IH 120 E2
Laureno. Dom J140 08
LIF9 120 G4
Laurentluslay 231 F2 G3
Llkhnl 277 84
Lauunne 261 C2 252 06
L\kyo 2e6 G3
Lauzade, Dom de la 147 C3
Lllon, Ch 390 C3
Lauzeta, Dom ta 141 A4
Ll\1oc 273 B3
Lava Cap 318 83
Ll\llon 347 G2
Lavaut St - JacquH 88 815
Llilooot 292 C6
Lavaux 251 C2 253 01
Lilydale V1noyord1 3113 E5
Lavaux en 87 84
Limo 330 83 03
Lav1•re1, aux 86 F1
Llmorl 330 E4 333 C5
Lavi•res, les, Beaune 83 82
Llmbuf'I 246 A2
Lav1eres, IH. Meur1ault 61 E1 Limo Kiln Valley 317 E4
Lav11ne, Dom 119 F4
LlmHtone Coa1t 34A F2
Lavlll• Bertrou , Ch 141 82
L1mmattal 261 A'li
Lovllledlou 53 F2 F3
Llmnoa 281 84 85
Lavrottes. ..
.
66 F5
L1moz1n, le 60 G6
Lawaon's Ory Hills 373 C3
Llncant•n 333 E5 335 F1 F2
L1y 233 F4
Llncoln Lake&hore 293 F4
Lazy CJ"'Hk 304 E2
Lincourt 321 C6
L&Z'Z&NtO 163 05
Lindberg 259 01
le Casematte UM E6
L1ndeman'1 Limestone R1d1e
LePasdelaOame140C6
357 C5
Le P1a nefle 156 G2
L1ndeman's St George 357 B5
Leabro
o
k Eatote 366 C4
Lindon 323 OS
Leamon, Ch 359 83
Linea, la 366 83
Leaning Post 293 F2 F3
L1ngot Martin 152 A4
Lf
futler;
""117C2
Lln1ua Franca 297 03
Lechlnto 273 03
Linne Calodo 320 B1
Lechkhuml 277 84
L1nsenbusch 242 G2 G3
Lechovlce 266 G3
L1pmμ 273 ES
Leckerber& 239 A3
Llqu••re.
.
Chdela142E1
Leckzapfen 239 B4 85
Llrac 136 F6
Lecon"eld 357 05
Lis Nena 171 05
Leda Vll\aa VleJU 195 C1
L1sboo 208 C3 C4 215 04
Lodop.r, Dom 141 C3 03
Lise et Bertrand Jouuet ,
Ledson 309 A1
121 C6
Leeuwtn Estate 349 G6
Llalni 179 06
Lelkoa\1 (Nicosia) 284 B5 86
Ll•J•k 288 F2
L.efta1ve, Dom 69 E4
Lismore 379 F3
LepcyPNk.Ch390B3
Llson185 05
Lopr11 195 C3
Llaon ·Pramagiore 166 05
L_ep116 C2
L1ste, le 163 02
Lo1Y..Wnye 285 Gl
Llstrac-M4'doc 85 C2 97 F2
Lohmgrube 280 G3
Lltomif'1ce 266 E2
LeiRenShau390C3
Lltom61'icko 286 El E2
Le1bnttz 265 F3
L1ttle'1 365 CS
Lolmen 244 85
Littoral 307 FS
Leinh6hfe 242 F2
L1vad1a 277 82 B3
Lelten:hen 231 G3
Livermore Valley 317 A3
Lolthaborc 256 F6 280 F3
L1vlo Felluga 171 04
Lekao's Marani 279 E3
L1ya. dom de 388 A.6 A6
Lombru 113 Ell
Llzzano 182 B6
Lemelson 297 C3
Ljubljana 267 E3
Lemesoa (L1muaol) 284 C6
Llano Estacado 326 BS
Lonchon 236 F8 GS
Lloar, El 202 03 04
Lonpnfeld 256 83 259 82
LoAberco33305334 E3E4
Lenswoocl 356 C6
LoAchauases. Jes 65 F3
Lenton Brae 349 ES
Loche89 G46505 06
Lenz 324 E2
Lockwood 317 G6
Liioanon 86 E3 103 F3
Locorotondo 182 85
Liion Bor
ral
, Dom142E1
L6cse 266 E3
Leone de Cutrlt 182 Be
Lod1318 02
Loonottl Cellar 30
0
85
Lo1odoj 274 El
L9onln., Dom 145 F5
Logrol\o 188 C41117 84199 B2
LoOntl 2113 E3
Lohr, J 317 82 F4320A2
Lo6ntlo 283 E2
Lo\bon 255 83
Leopard's Leap 383 0'5
Lolbenber1257 B4
Lerchen1pe1I 243 G3
Lollerbef'I 259 A2
Les Aurelles, Dom lea 142 E3
Lokoya 311 03
Lookovoc 2117 F6
Loll•re•. let Petit• 63 C6
L111querde 1'4& 02
Lo\o1 336El
LHalnl Ou..
.
llo 199 F3
Lomo Lo..
..
334E3
Leaaona 1 51
1
G1 157 03
Lomu de Cauquenea 335 F4
Lothbridp Wino• 369 03
LombordH. IH eo G1
Latrlnol 283 F2
Lomita 327 F4
Lotton 242 E3
Lompoc 320 F2
Lottert1y 233 85
London249F4
Letzenbera 1Z7 81
Lon1 Gully Eotote 3113 C6
Leura Park 3159 04
Loni \alond 324 G4
Leurey, au 84 F1
Lani Moodow Ranch
Leutschach 2615 F3
311 C303
Levantlne Hiil 383 06
Loni Shodowa 300 B4
Levlce 286 G4
Lon1ecourte, In 84 F3
Levr"re. la 82 01
Lon..roa, In 111 E3
Levrona, IH 60 G4
L<>n1oroloa,Boados11786C6
Lew11 Wines 328 Ce
Lonprolao. Douua do1 ti/ C5
Lewis·Clark Valley 296 Ee
LOftlOrlo 320 F2
Loydo 334 E4 333 06
Lonv1d1• 3B3 F2
l.oynH119G370E473Bii
Loncv1ew 368 E4
Loytron 263 G2
Lopoz 340 B3
Ua Wtnflry 3GO 84
L6poz do Heredia 1119 F3
Llaon1n1 388 A& Ae
Lorch 2311 01
Uban, Mute du 286 E6
Lorenzon, Dom 98 B6
L\boumo 86 04106 C5 10l
l
F1 Lor1 277 C&
Librandi 182 06
Lorlnt1 320 F2
Libra')' Vineyard 313 F4
Loron•tFlla73Be
Llcht•n•t•lnerln 257 93
Lorou•·Bottereau, le 111!5 83
ucorna W rnehouae 273 ,.
..
_4
Loa An10\o1 303 Gii 3211 112
Llol> Family 324 Fl
Loa Arboln 340 E1
Llebenbera, Au1trla 251 A3
Loa 8al..UHH 181 E6
\.
.Job9n
bef'I,<f
frm
any 231
1
B4
LoaCornoroe309E4311G5
l-
uonborl.M
<>
..1221
1
81
Loa Ch-oa 340 El
Ltebfrauenber&. m.
.
lnl'Hl•Hn
Loi Cuadradoa 206 C3
231
1
"3
Los Indios 340 Fl
Llebfnwenatif't Kh'Chen •tc.tek
LosL1nt1uH333E5334C!l
231
1
06
L :>t Ollvoe D1ttrkt 320 F4
L '9Yri- ee63C:8
J21 C&
Loo Torcloo 206 E4
Moel•, Dom 151 F4
M� 1113 B1
Lot To n•le• 340 1!13
MocMurroyFlonch 307 04
Manuel Fo rmlpd• Ja Fuente
LoeVucot334ES
Mocro
o
tlO30903
192G1
LoHdo 11l2 F4
M� 2e6 F2
Manzonlllo-Sonlucor do
Lost In a Forett 31!5e C4
Mad•lra Vlnter1 221 03
Borrom-188 F2
Lo1t Loko 347 F2
Madeira Win• Cornp&ny
Mon.Wine 215 C3 C4
Lo1t Ook 3211 89
221 03
MoplOC- 304 ES
Lotbef'I 245 03
Madelrente/Mmdelra 208 E3
MaQul• 334 oe
Lou Lon 388 A4
Modeloc, Dom 146 F4
MordePintos193B4
Lou�•· Bernac 113 F4
Madera 303 04
Moramurq273112B3
Louie. Clos 107 04
Madlruza 271 06
Marononp 361 84
Loul1 M Martini 313 G5
Mildon•,Domdela74C6
M8NlnCOl, lo
o
56 06
LOUii Mqn\n 152 CS
Madonna Utate 309 05
Maravenne. Ch 147 02
Lou\1·Antolno Lu)'t 335 F4
311 G5
Morboch 234G8
Louis ·Claude Onvtsn117"'4 04 Madrid 188 03
Morcorlnl 181 03
Loul1ana 290 C4
Modrono 318 84
MllrCUl
l
nVtnoyord30702
Louny 268 E1
Madura, Dom la 141 B4
Mo.rca
a
1116A5
Loup\ac 86 E4 106 A4
Mamnl 182 C3
MIU
U
120C3
Louren1ford 383 F3
MagdaJenenkreuz 236 F6
Marcel Richoud, Dom
Lour\nhl 208 03
MllJO, lo 179 C6
1378384
Louvetr11, Dom de la 117 F3
Mqn1 Thibaut, Dom 106 G4
Marcenaaco 183 C3
Louvola 83 C5
M.,
,.
.
z. Dom 147 C3
Marchals. In 116 86
Lovedale 366 06
Maguro 274 C1
Morchampt 73 04
Lov1co 274 03
Mah\ 373 E2
Marchamudo Bajo 206 C5
Lowburn 376 06
Mahlno 206 A2
March1hue 334 E6
Lowburn Ferry 375 C6
Mahoney Ranch 309 05
MarchlOf"I & Bar
raud
Lower Galllee 287 06
311 G5
340 C2
Lower W11rau 373 B3
Maia. Clos 142 C3
Marclllac 53 F3
Loxare 201 E4
Ma1kammar 241 C4
Marckrain 127 C3
Luc Lapeyre, Dom 141 B2
Ma1\bef'1256 A4
Marco Abella 202 C5
Lucas 340 El E2
Madly-Champagne 83 B6
Marco Fellup 171 ES
Lucas, Callf'omla 318 02
Malmari 330 04 05
Morconnota. I• 82 C8
Lucu, New Ym* 326 C6
Mam Rldp 361 F5
Marconno 181 C4
Lucco 173 A3
Malndrolack 247 B4
Marcoux. Dom du 137 E2
Lucca, de 332 G3
Maine 290 A5 A6
Mord1e 117 A4
Luce della Vita 179 C4
Ma1nvlereck 247 C1
Mareau, en 81 E6
Lucey, Ch 152 86
Mainz 223 E2 238 03
Marechale. Closdela84F1
Luchets, les 81 E1
MOlpo3340433305
Mank:haude, la 70 B3
Lucien Crochet. Dom 123 C3
Malpu 340 B3
Marechaudea. le Clos dea
Lucy Margaux Vineyard•
Malson Ange.lot 152 84
8305
358 84 85
Maiaon 81anche 133 C6
Mar9chaudea.\es630405
Luddite 384 E5
Maloon BrOIM 88 C2
Maremma Toscana 173 C2
Ludo, lo 383 08
Molson p..
..
..,
Ovemoy 161 05 Morenco Rivet
te
1630405
LudH 8384
Malson Rouge 131 B3 B4
Marestel 152 B4
Ludovic Chanson 121 C5
Maluou 265 84
Mareull sur-Ay 8304
Ludwi1shafen 241 B6
Malzl•res Buaes 65 F3
MorHe, Domdola142E5
Ludw1ph0he 238 E4
M1Jas, Dom de 146 01
Margalit 287 E5
Luge.no 186 E2 188 G3
M0jal\0 357 C6
Margan Family 366 84 C4
Lugano 261 06
MlljO Noronte, di 182 A3
Margaret Rcver 347 F1
Luginalond 242 E2 E3
Mokhachkala 277 86
349E5E6
Lugny56ES89 85
Mal ca..
..
..
.
. 1esesF5
Margaux85C399B3
Lu111 Boaca 340 82 83
Malad1ero 131 02 03
Margerum Wine Compwiy
Lu1g1 Tecce 183 86
Malodl•ro. lo 59 E3
321 C4
Lu1ns 252 E4
Maladl•rea, les,
Mqher1a 163 04
Luis Alesre 199 F6
Gevrey Chambertm
Margobrunn 237 G2
Luis Anxo Rodrfcuez Vllzquez
86F5G5
M.,.
..
..
.
n370 B4
192 G1
Malad1W.S. les,
Marguerite. C\os 374 E6
LUISCaftu 199 G5
Nua-stGeorges64F4G4 ManaFite.
.
Dom 141 E3
Luis F•llpe Edwards 336 01
M�- 188 F3
Moriqes , los 62 C5
Luis Pato 217 C2
M•lop y S.orru do M�op
Morlbor289E2287E3
Luiz Arcenta 331 ES
188 F3
Marichal 332 G3
Lu1an de Cuyo 340 82
Maland"'nio 283 F3 F4
Marlo, Clos 142 CS
Luko Lambert 363 83 C3
Malconsorts, au dessus des
Morlontal 280 F2 F3
Lulhom Court 249 F3
65 F2
Mar1anthal. Burgen/and
Lumlero. Ch 387 B4
Malconsorts, aux 65 F2
280F2F3
Luna Austral 340 F2
Malculte. en la 67 83
Manenthal, Rhemgau
Luna BebeMde 192 F4
Mal11
11
1
379 G4
236 F3 F4
Luna Rossa 325 84
Malherba, Ch 147 E3
Mardlor 340 E1 F1
Luna, Napa Valley 311 E6
Malibu Newton Cai)yon
Marisnan 152 A.6
Luna, New Zealand 370 86
303 G5
Mar�mar Estate 307 E4
Lune1, Clos de1 105 F2
Mallvo1re 293 F3
Marin 162 A6
Lunprottl 181 E5
Malloco 330 F4 333 G5
Maring 269 E3
Lunlunta 340 B3
Malllo 284 C5
Marino 173 F3
Lupler, OomalnH 197 86
Mallorca 188 G5
Martnot 80 02
Lupin. Dom 152 A�
Malmoobu'Y 379 F2 381 B3 C3 Marlo Sch1opetto 171 015
Luraule,en 61 F1
Molokarpotsk' 286 G3
Morla, Ch 141 82
Luroto. \es 81 F4 G3 G4
MaJpolrlera. les 61 G2
Marisa Cuomo 182 83
Luut1a Park 363 E6
Moltrola, la 80 F1 Gl
Mar1sco 373 C2
Luaco do Mlfto 193 06
Matvula de Bosa 186 C4
Marjan s1me1e 171 C6
Luoaoc 85 05 107 83
Malvosla doll• Lipari 184 05
Mork Woot 307 05 E5
Lu1tou 205 06
Malverne, Clos 383 02
Morkerlllorlond 244 FS
Lusthauabers 259 Fo4
Mombouf'I 127 83
Markham 313 F4
LUtl')' 262 08
Mamertmo di Milazzo o
Marlenhelm 12& A.5
Lutzmann1bur1 26S 05
Momortlno 184 05
Marmara 286 F3
Lutzvl\\• Valley 379 C2
Manavl 279 E1
MarnHa, loo 93 C8
Luzern 261 84
Monavl, Kortll 277 C5
Marne& Blanches, Dom da
LVK 274 04
ManchHter Rld&e 304 E1
161 G3
Lyoakovota 274 04
Monchuolo 188 E4
Morof 2!111 E4
Lykoa 281 C4
Mondolber1127 C3
MarQu4a dt C4care1,
Lynmar 307 E5
Mand•lbrunnen 239 83 C3
199 111 82
Lynaolence 107 Fl
Mandolprton 242 03
M•rq"'• d• Rlacol 111
11
F6
Lyn• 383 C5
Ma.ndelaraben, Bemm.ee/
Marqu11 387 84
Lyrorok\1 281 F5
233 G1
Morquia do &t Eat•pho Cove
Lys,IH79E3
Mondo\IJ'Obon. PINport
Co·opll1E4
Lyublmota 274 E4
23111589
Marroneto, 11 179 85
Mandolpfod 243 E2
M1ra387 !14
M Chapouber 369 B4
Monc1•noa,i.a 111 E4
MarNln, le 90 198
M Hudl383 C2
Mondoon 347 C2
Morsolo114 F2
M3 Vineyard 3611 C&
Mon.-tah• Terroc• 3119 C3
M&rHnnay &6 CS
Mo Moro l/lnoyord 320 E3
Monie\• 1&2 B4
Maraton 311 C3
Miiby, Dom 131
1
GI
Monlao 285 F3
Morayu, Ch 28G G4
Mac Forboa 31
1
3D&
Monj\mup 347 G3
Martha Claro 324 Fl
MocabrH, la 81 E1
MonnborJ 237 F1
Morth.1'1 Vlneyor<I 314 F4
M"°"1 199 F5
Mannertdorf an der March
Martha\ 268 02
Mocor1 324 F1
2&6 11586
Mart•W 263 G2
MocchlO\o, lo 11& 84
Monna317114
Mut1n COdax 193 8:
::
Macch1on•. 11 180 IM
Manns U<ornoro} 18e r15
Mart•n PIO!' 307 E5
Mocodon Ran- 34
4
G4
Mannweiler 234 G3
Martin Vineyard )18 04
3611C3
Manou, Clos 89 C5
Martlr'I'• Lant �92 F 15
Macharrudo Alto 206 B6
Manousaklt 281 F4
Mort•nlo
orou
.,.ie•C&
MacherellH In 80 F2
Mantini• 281 02 00 283F1
im r•

M.tr'lll'lborl� Vtneyard
Maxlrne M-, Dom 141 E3
Mer
r
itt lolllnd all Cl
1'094&
M••W'•11 3&D �
Merry Edwardo 3C1
1
Ell
Mart1n.i11 '307 £6
Ml)'acoma
a
311 E4
Morryvalo 313 F4
Martinet� V1<1oy1rd '307 02
Mayv 3030&
Mel'IM 249 F6
Marti,,.,
,
p1e1C2
�-112
M1rtltdorr221 C4
Martlneiz Sujanda 191 192
Majlsll'a 21
1
702
M.,.urzano 181 F2
Martfnei de Salinas 336 F4
Ml)'achooo 229 Q2
Melflla Vofloy 321
1
84
Martino, d9 334 C4
Mueray Ciao de 81 F1
M11fond 117 !12
M1rt1no1i.,, Oom da 1'40 DB
Maz1.,.
.
, 10eece111112
Mlllorle, lo 121 "4
MaruHn 317 H
Mulo · Chambertln 81
1
114
Me1neux, le1 13 A3
Moryon 274 D4
Mllf<>Y'r1
1
· C11ombertln tlfl C3 Meonll 1ur·D,.r, le 83 F3
M&ryhlll Winery 2Q& �
Mua 347 E2
Munfl, Clo1 du 83 F4
Morylllnd 2llO 96
Mu-co 307 C4
Meaau 117 A3
Mao "lta 202 C4
McDowell \/olfoy 304 £4
MNHnlkola 281 112 C2
Mu "m•ol. Dom 1-4& D3
McGfnfoy Vfneyord 321 Cll
M•Hlno Hor 3211 Bii C6
Moo Bau• 148 E5
McGre1or 326 C4
M111lnf 283 G2
Mao Bll
l
nc,Domdu145Fe
McGulpn 385 D5
MIUM"tO 2115 F3
Mu Brusul•re 142 CB
McHenry Hohnon 34U Ge
MootorvOl&Y 2115 G3
Moo l!runet 142 D4
McKlnf� 2117 04
Moo,.
.
Mtjor 21
1
8E3
Maa Cal O•rnoura 142 03
McKlnfoy Sprinp Vineyard
Mau.Irle, la 113 E5
Mu Condi 201 E4
2UI G6
M•�re. Dom du 142 El
Mu Car10t 135 E1
McLll'ln Vol•344 El Fl
Methymnuo1 281 C6
Mu Champart 141 B4
386 Ce 3611 E3
M•trat, Dom 74 C5
Mai Conaclence 142 04
McLean'• Farmpte 3&2 04
Mettonhllm 238 F4
Mu C"'mot, Dom du 145 04
Mcf111h E1tat1 385 D5
Meunc·•ur- Lolre 117 A3
Mu d�lm• 142 F4
McMlnnvfllo 296 D2 297 D3
Meur1ault 65 06 61 F1
Mu d Alozon 142 E2
McNlb Rldle 304 E3
MM131E2
Mas d·..
.
uzf...
.
1142 De
McPherton Cellars 328 86
M•ve11a 88 E16
Mas d'En Gii 202 04
Meadowbank 31
1
1!F2
Mo�. do 383 C2
M&1 de Cyn1nque 141 84
M•ll. fe 133 C4
Meyer Famlly, California
Mu d• OaumH Gusac
M11lhada 20B 84 217 C2
304 F3
142 0'4
Mkholot, en 67 C4
Moyer Family, Canada 292 G5
Mu de l'Ecrfture 142 D3
Meckenhetm 241 C4
Mo�r.JH37UE2
MudeloDamo146A3
Meddershetm 234 F2
Mez, Cloa de 74 C4
MudelaDo....146D3
Medford 296 G2
M•zo1 Mily 2116G3
Mu d• la s•ranne 142 04
Med&ldlO 273 ES
Mez6zombor 265 G2
Mu de LltMan 136 81
Madhurst 363 04
Mlanf 171 C3
Mu del Nri• 11S C6
Medi Volloy 274 El E2
Mlaudoux , Ch les 113 E6
Mas dee 8ressac:les 135 E1
Madina dot Campo 196 GS
Mlc:hHI Mondav1 Family 309
Mas d.. 8rou1f
f
1142 04
Medlterra 281 F4 F5
D4 311 G5
Mu des Chtm•res 142 02
Mecl1terranH.n 285 G4
Michael Shaps 323 G4
Mu det DamH 141 A6
M'-lltorronH 52 F5 53 FS
Michael David 318 02
Mu Doix 202 C6
M'-loc86B28603
Michaud 317 F5
Mu du Sole1lla 141 C5
Madot171 CS
Michel Brld11
1
. Dom68A6
Mu Glbrlel 142 F3
Mee Godard, Dom 74 E4
Mlchel Gahler151 05
Mu Hellos 286 F6
Moaru Pll'k 365 C5
Michel Goub&rcl , Dom 68 ES
Mas lgneua 202 C4
Meerlu1t 38S F1
Miehe! Ju1llot,, Dom 88 85
Mas Julllen 142 D3
Mep Sp1iao CC.vino) 283 D3
Mlchof Rey 70 02
Mas Karolina 146 D2
Moggyes 265 F1
Michel Sarrazm et Flis, Dom
Mas Lavaj 142 04
Maeyer 265 C6
68 E5
Mu Martinet 202 04 06
Mehadl�1 273 D2 03
Mlchel "Schlumberger 307 C4
Mas Mud11fizla 146 02
Meipmma 186 06
Michel, Dom 89 C5
MuNouf, Ch 134 F6
Memert 383 D2
M1chalo C.16 182 Ce
Mas Rous, Dom du 146 F4
Melx au Maire, le67C1
Michale Sat
ta
17S C6
Mas St·Laurent 142 F4
Melx Bas, le 87 B1
Mlchelmark 237 F2
Mu St-Louis 139 E3
Me1x B&tallle, la 61 E3
Mlchefsblrc242 C2
Masburol, Ch 113 E4
Mehc Chavaux, les 61 E2
M1ch1pn 290 84
Mascanl 201 E4
Melx de Mypant. le 61 E3
Micot. Clos81 F6
MucotaV1neards340B2B3 MelxdeResale,I..81E3
M1dahdare 274 E3
Masi Tupunpto 340 02
Me1x des Ouches 68 BS
Mlddalvfot 383 D2
Muos de Falset 202 05
Melx Foulot, Dom du 68 CS
Middle Rio Grande Valley
Mu1&.fa17704
Me1x Fr1nguet 88 C6
328 B4
Mas
sac
husetts 290 85
Meix Gagnes, les 61 G1
Mlddleburg V1rg1n1a 323 06
Mas
sa
mler la M1gnarde, Ch
Melx Garnier I• 61 E3
M1dn1Cht 320 02
141 82
Me1x Goudard, les 60 G2
Mldyat 285 G6
Mua
a
ndra 277 B2
Me1x Pelletler 60 G4
Ml• lken1. Dom 387 A3
Muura 163 A2
Menc Rantler 86 C2
M1•p 263 F4
MU$�a286 E5 F5
Me1x Tavaux , le 61 F2
M1anotte, la 62 C4
MuaertaIIVah18206
Melx Trouhant 87 82
Miguel Torres 335 02
Massif d"Uchaux 135 B2
Me1x-Bu 68 B6
Mlkulov 286 G3
M-lf de St Thier
ry
81C2C3 Menc:. Closdes80G3
Mlkulovsko 266 G3
Masson 81ondelet, Dom
Melx, les, Beaune 63 C3
M1fogro Vineyards 326 B4
123 C5
Me1x, les, Meursault 60 G3
Mflono 304 E3
Mutroberachno 183 86
Melbourne 344 G4 359 04
Miibrandt Vineyards 298 FS
Mastrojonn1 179 De
Melegoldol 265 G3
Mlldur• 344 E3
Muures,In69Fii60G1
Melen 286 F3
Miii Creek 307 C4
Muut 304 03
Mell 336 E3
M1llandes., les 66 C2
Muut da Rive 171 04
Mehn, sur 60 86
Miiibro
o
k347D2
Matah1W1 37D ee
M•hnots 79 F2 F3
M1ll•t"re. la 121 04
Matakana387A6
Mellpol 340 C2
Milly Lamartma 69 E3
MatanzuCroak309B1
Meflssa 182 D6
M1lmanda (Torres) 201 E1
Matar
ro
mera 195 CS
Milnlcko 266 F2
Mfloi Frano 271 06
Matuaa, Dom 146 D3
Melnlk, Bulgaria 274 F2
Mlfot1c• 286 F3 G3
Matero 182 B4
Milnik. Czech1a 286 E2
Mfltonbars 247 C2
Materv1nl 340 B2 C2
Molvlffo 321 B4
Miiton S66 E3
Matetlc 334 E4
Menade 196 GS
M1mbres Valley 326 B4
Mateus Nicolau de Almeida
Menasha H1ll1 287 E5
Miner Famlly 314 ES
212 F3
Mondel 340 B3
Mlnherm 231 D4
Mathe.ieblldchen 23
3
F4
Mendocino 304 03
Mlnho 208 A4
Matlu Rlccftelll 340 B2
Mendocino R1d1• 304 E1
Mfnl•re. Ch 120 04
Matolevlt271Al
Mendoza 330 E4 331 B2
M1nlf 273 82
Mitra263B4
340 E6
Mlnkov Bro1 274 ES
Matrix3070405
Menetou Salon 117 B4
Minnesota 2QO 83
Matu 281 04
M•n9tr,.re1, In 70 D4
Mlolo Win• Group 331 F4
Matt"-& 295 A3
Menf\ 184 F2
Miraflores fa "It& 204 Bii CB
Maucoll, Ch 139 !12
M1n10ba 1fil2 F4
Mlrofloroo la Blja 204 C6
Mauer256C&
�trfda 188 E3
Mireille (Dom Ott), Cloa
Mlulrchen 238 F3
Meopham Volley 249 G4
147 02
Maule3SOE433
3
E6 336 E4
Mer5ofo11317 F3 F4
Mfro1110 274 E4
Maurens 113 06
Merande, Ch de 162 C5
Mlrolrs, Dom dH 1151 G4
Maure1 63 G6
Mercer 21
1
8FB
Mfahao Vineyard 375 C4 C5
Maurice Prothaiau et Fiii,
M•rcian, Ch, Kat•unuma
M1111on E1tat• 389 S4
Dom68B6
31!f7B4
Mf11lon Hiii 292 E6
Maur1,ne, Ch la 113 E4
M..-.i.n. Ch, Kl/t;yo1Jahara
M1111Hlppl 290 C4
Maurltaon 307 03
3ee C5
Mfoaourl 2110 114
Mauro 196 C1
Merclon, Ch, Mariko 386 C5
Mfowlbach 265 1!11
Mauro Franch1no 1156 F3
Mlrcout'l 28
8
Fl
Ml1tfetoo 38e C4
Maurod6t 191
1
E3
Mercurey66D686C6
Mftonl, loo 81 F6
M•ulh6hf1 242 F2
Mer1am1 113 04
Mlt<>holf 363 D2
M"'torn 26& 83 251 CB
Merkln Vlnoy.,.dt 326 63
Mft<>holton 3&u B4
258 E1
Merol 171 C3
Mltolo 356 D4
Mt
t
r•v.IH 283 Fe
Mont. Bernardi 177 £4
Mltwlbel'lhotm 126 84
Monti da flavuqu.ira 2111 E4
Mtt
tot
buf'pni.n<I 261 t!l6
Montol'lo-VlnoyOrd30l
l
C3
Mlt
t
othO!lo 231
1
F4
Mont. Ser
ra
116 C&
Mtt
t
olrheln 223 E2
Monti Xanlc 327 O&
Mlttelwlhr 12& 0'4 127 C3
Montocarlo 173 A3
Mlttelwmr 127 C3
Mont.cutro 196 C3
Mttwrbl1r1268 De
Montoclflo lit 112
Mftwrwq 2&9 F3
Montocucco 173 C3
Mlavo 2117 F&
MontKUC
CO
Sanstov••
MIKrllk 211
11
El E2
173 C3
Mochampo, fu 11
11
C2
MontM d• Tonnerre 7U E6
Mocho V1n1ylrd. el 317 A3
MontMRoup82C3
Moduto 303 C3
Montorolco 181 E5
Modro 21!11 G3
Montefalco s.,antlno
Moonchb11'1
1
121
1
C4
17304181F5F8
Mopdor, Clo• 202 C4 D4
Montotlco 111
1
113
Mopo 388 B4
Monwlqull'dla 186 A4
Mo1or 8•d•n 327 El5
Monwlena, Ch 311 "1 "2
Mo1ottH, IH 87 B2
Mont.lo, Ch 116 De
MOIYOrOIOk 2116 D3
Monteneubel 233 88
Mohr--Fry Ranch Vineyard
Montenldoll 177 C1
318 02
Monwpulclano 180 C3
Mokelumn• Glen 3'18 02
Montepuk:lano d'Abruzzo
Mokelumn• ,.Iver 318 02
173F6EllF8
Moldova nad Bodvou 211
11
GS
Montepulclano d'Abruzz:o
Moldova 277 "1 273 1!16
Collin• Teramane 173 Ee
Moldovon Hiiia 273 116
Monteraponl 1n E4
Mollneuf117 82
MonteNCIO di MHN
Molino di Groce, 11 177 E4
Ml
l'lt
t
fma173C2C3
Mollnoo 311
11
B4
Montarey 317 E3 E4
Mollydooker 36li 04
Monwrmlnod 153 C6
Mofshlfm 126 A5
Monwrref 118 C2
Mombl11, IH 116 F6 G6
Monteralno 181 F2
Momonto 384 E6
Montoo 334 D8
MommHaln 73 06
MonW.cudalo 173 B2 B3
Monocl 182 El
l!
CS
MonteHCondo 177 C2
Monard1•re. Dom la 137 04
MontHtef'ano 1151 C2 C3
Monuterlo 327 04
Montevertrne 177 E6
Monbazillac 113 86
Montevetrano 182 B3
Mon�lo 208 "4 209 F2
Montevtdeo 330 06 oe
MOnchbel'lo Ahr 228 G2
Monteviejo 340 F1
MOnchberg. Nohe 235 F4
Montevlna 318 86
Monchenevoy, en 87 C5
Montfaucon. Ch d• 137 E1
MOnchhof256 C6
Montf'l"in, Ch de 135 C1
MOnchhube 2311 "3
Mont1llet , Dom de 118 A4
M6nchapf'ad 236 F3 F4
Montva1 334 E8
Moncontour 121 B3
Montaueux 81 F3
Mondav1 To Kalon 314 F4
Monthehe 55 05 81 E3
Mond•J•r 188 04
Monthoux 152 EM
Mondlllo 375 C6
Monticello 323 F4
Mondotte. la 111 F5
Montilla 188 F3
Mondscheln 239 A3
Montilla Morlles 188 F3
Monemvu1a 281 E3
Montinore 297 C3
Monemvas1a- Malvas1a 281 E3 Mont1rlu1 137 E4
Monest1er 113 ES
Montlou1s su r-Lol,.
.
121C4D4
Monestrer la Tour, Ch 113 E5
Montnwn 131 AS
Monferrato 157 E3
Montmains 79 F3
Monforte d'Alba 163 E4
Montmelas ·St·Sorltn 73 E4
Monin, Oom 152 84
Montm•l.an 152 CS
Monkshood Cellars 328 A4
Montmlrail, Ch de 137 06
Monn1aux, Clos 67 C8
Montofoh 281 D4
Monnow Valley249 F3
Montpeyroux 142 03 04
Monok 265 F1
Montrachet. te 60 G3
Mono1tor�tl 263 C2
MontrUor 117 C2
Monpl8zy, Dom de 142 F3
Montreu1J -Bellay 116 C5
Monpr1vato 163 04
Montreux 263 E1
Monsanto 1n E3
Montrevenots, les 62 B2
Monshe1m 238 G3 239 02
Montr1chard 117 82
Monsieur Nicolas 281 C3
Montrub1 201 E3
Mon11eur Noly, le Clos de
Monts Damn8s, les 123 83
70 E5
Monts Lu1sants 66 82
Monstant 188 06 200 FS
Montsecano 334 E3
Mont Caume 53 GO G6
Montus, Ch 116 F2
Mont de M1l1eu 79 E5
Monv11hero 163 A2 A3
Mont du To1t 379 F2
Monzernhe1m 238 F3 239 A3
Mont Rochelle 383 06
Monz1n1en 234 F1 G6
Mont Tauch Co ·op 141 E2 E3
Moon Mountain 01stNCt
Mont Chombord 117 B2
SOnoma County 309 83
Mont Olivet, Clo.s du 139 E2
Moonambel 344 F4
Mont Redon, Ch 139 C2
Moorlfla 366 F2
Mont-sur· Rolle 252 ES
Moorooduc 361 E5
Mont-Thlbor Ch 137 F3
Mooabur1er1n 259 C4
Mont, Dom 386 AS
Moqu•sua 330 C4
Mont, le 121 BS B4
M6r 2113 B3
Montagne de Relms 81 03
Moraga 326 B2
Montagne du Bourdon, la
M6roholom 263 C4
61 D2
Morais, las 83 04
Montacn• du Tlllet, la 61 02
Morait1co 28 1 04
Montq;n• ·St Emlllon 111 A3
Moraitis 281 04
Montacne, Beaun• 62 82
Morales de Toro 196 E3
Montagne, Bordeaux 815 OS
Morand, I• 63 84
107C2
Morond• 334 D6
Mont.acne, en la e7 86
Morava (Moravia) 268 F3
Monwsnleu 152 B4
Mort.YI� Novd. Ves 266 G3
Mont11ny 55 E5 ea G4
MOrb1sch 2&6 C6
Montahuc, Dom de 141 B3
MordorM, Dom de la 136 G6
Montll1no, Ch de 113 E3
More1n 7Q 06
Montalclno 17Q 8S
Morell1381 C4
Montalto 3111 F6
Morella 182 85
Montana 290 82.
Morelli Lane Vineyard 307 E4
Montanello 183 C4
Morelllno di Scanu.no 173 C3
Montanya. de la 307 06
Morera de Montunt, la
Montll'lbaldf 161 D2
202 85
Montbollot es Bii
M6rooon 383 D5
MontbourpOIJ, Dom ell 1111 F4 Morey-St·DenlS 65 C6 11
11
c2
Montb,.
.
83 84
Morpn 317E3
Montcalm••. Dom d• 142 04
Mor..nhor383 D3
Montceau, en eo E3
Morc•noter 383G3
Montdoyen Ch 113 E5
Morpot &U F5
Monte Bello Vineyard 317 92
Mor1u 262 D5
Morp116Fe73ce74E4
7604
Mof'tc:hoU, 111 eoa1
Morln-Lanpr•n. Dom142 F4
Morl11
1
1.11170C4
Mornlnpldo 3el
l
F2
Morn•ncton 3&U D4 31
1
1Ell
Mornlnaton Pentnaula
344 G4 3&U E4
Morra. lo 1113 Cl C2
Morrla 3� Ae
Mor1teln 238 83
Mortl•• 142 C& D&
Mo111c 307 El4
Moo� 321 C4
Moacadetlo di Montak:lno
17U C4
Moocato d'"otf l&u E4 E6
Moocato di Plntotlorfa 184 G2
Moecato di SOrto·S.nnorl
188 A4 A5
Mo1cato di Trani 112 A4
Motconl 183 F4
Mo111 223 E2
Moselle l52 86
Mour XV 3llO B4
M°"hln 307 04
Moalavlna 287 E4
Mo1ny, Clo1 de 121 06
Moaqulta Muerta 340 C2
Moot Wood 349 E6
Moo1•, Ch 146 E3
Moot 286 E1
Mo1tar 287 F4
Mother Rock 37U E2
Motrot, en 68 86
Motto. fa 383 De
Mouchh, Cfo1 de fa 80 G4
Mouch... Clos de
e
, Meursault
61 F3
MouchH, Clot des. Sant.nay
69 F3
Mouch••. .. Clos des 82 C2
Mouchottes, lei eo Gl
Moullle, la 67 81 C1 C2
Mouhn CareH.. Ch 113 E4
Moulin Cruottes Mayne, aux
83 B1
Moulin des Costea (Dom
Elunan) 148 D4
Mouhn Landin, au 81 F1
Mouhn Moine, le 61 E2
Moulin &Vent 55 F5 73 BS
74B675C5C6
Moulrn •-Vent. Ch du 74 85
Moulin, Clos du 83 84
Moulin, Dom du, Gcvllac 115 06
Moulin, Dom du, Vm sobru
135 83
Moullne, la 131 84
Mouhmer, Dom 141 B4
Mouffs on M'®c:85C297G3
Mount Aukum 318 BS
Mount Avoca 359 C2
Mount Barker 347 G4
Mount Barrow 347 G4
Mount Benson 34
4
F2 G2
Mount Carmel 287 OS
Mount OiMculty 376 05
Mount Edelstone 352 05
Mount Eden 317 C2
Mount Edward 375 CM
Mount Gambier 334 G2
Mount Harlan 317 E4
Mount Horrocks 353 E2
Mount Ida 359 B3
Mount Langs Gh1ran 359 C2
Moont Mary 363 03 D4
Mount Maude 375 BS
Mount Mtchael 375 05
Mount Palomar 328 82
Mount Pleasant 365 05
Mount Riley 373 C3
Mount Trio 347 F4
Mount VHder 309 C4 311 E4
Mount View 385 D6
Mount, The 249 G4
Mountadam 352 F3 F4
Mountford 371 F3
Moura, Douro 210 F4
Mourchon , Dom de 137 86
Moure 192 F3
Mourcu11 du G,.
.
a,Ch136El
Mourcuy. Dom 114 G6
Mouro. do 219 G5
Mouscaillo, Dom 140 ES
Mou11e. le Clos de la 82 C4
Mousa1.,.
.
, 11123C3
Moutere Hilla 387 C4
Mouth.. I• Blhan, Dom
113 F4 F5
Mout1er Amet 83 Cl 81
Moutonne, I• 79 CM
Moutonnea, le1 131 84
Moutottn I•• 83 CS
Mouz4.k• 283 G2
Movlll 1n C5 D6
MrRl11"356D6
MtL1ban280F4
Muddy wawr 311 F3
Mud- 346 D1
•AZITTllft
-""
"
t127C.4
Muonch-. 12l
l
C4
Mup 1t8 F3
M..
..
..
2&7 •3
MOl>lbel'I. �hi 23& F2 Q1
MOhlbort. Wachou 269 Ee
Muhlpolnt 2117 !le
Mukuzanf 277 C6 27U El
Mulat0 211
11
03
Muld<orbolch 383 E2
Mulllneux 311 Ae
Muhux &. Le
eu
Famtly Wlne1
31308
MummNepa314E4EB
Munari 31
1
9114
Muncq6ta 111
1
C3
MGnowr Sarmohllm 234 D4
Munt.nla 273 CM
Murena 184 F2
Muratl• 313 03
Murc:la 181 F4
Murdoch Hiii 361
1
C'&
MurMl, fff llOF1
MGrot'to 2815 F3
Mureto, 111 133 C6
Murfatlll' 273 E6
Mu..
..
..
de Monthelll, au 81 E2
Murprs dH Dent• de Chien,
IH eoF3
Murprs, aux 86 Fl
Murco 186 C6
Muri GriH 187 C&
Murl.tta'• Well 317 A3
Muro1 de M8'�o 209 F4
Murray Darling 34
4
E3
Murrieta. Marq�• de
1998283
Murrumbateman 346 El
Mutar, Ch 286 E4
Muecat du Cap CorH 143 D4
Mu1enhan1 242 E2
Mu111ny 66 F4
MuHbach 241 C4
Muswellbrook 345 01
Mut 286 G4
Mut11My 83 04
Mvemv• Ruts 383 E1
Mykolalv 277 A2
Mylonas 281 04
My10potamo
o
281 B4
Myrtfeford 34
4
F5369B6
Nab1se 28
8
F4
Nochb1f 273 A2
Nochea H•flhts 295 B4
298 D2 03
Naches He1strt:s Vineyard
296 D3
Nackenhe1m 238 E4
Napmb,. 34
4
F5
N.,.mb .. Lakes 344 F4
35964
N..
.
no36
6
C5
N..
.
s.Chde134E6
Nqet,Basdo63C5
Nqet, en 63 C5
Nl&Y Soml6 263 B2
Nagysz616 265 G4
Nlho 223E2
N01a 196 F5
NOjora 199 B1
Nojm, Dom 286 E4
Nakad, Ch 286 F6
Nakalzu Winery Hdls 386 C6
Nakazawa 366 "5
N¥h1chevan 277 08
Naflo 307C4
Nllys. Domdo13904
Namaqua 379 C2
Nampo1Hon 61 Cl
Nanclares y PMeto 193 CS
Nanni Cope 182 02
Nliousa
a
281 B2 B3
Nopa303C2309D531
1
F5
Nopa Valley 309 E5
311C4E5G5313E5
Napa Wine Company 314 F4
Napanook 311 D4
N&f)areuh 279 01
Napier 387 C5 369 B5
Napol'°n, Clos 67 B1
Napoli 182 0 02
Narblntona, los e3 B1 C1
Narbona 332 Fl
Nar
rows
Vineyard. TM
304 D2
-x-0.
..
ua, los eoF6F6
NarVM.ux-Deeaoua, tes 60 FC5
Nutrl.._ 113 E4
Natlvo381A3
Natural
l
..
._
Dom341
1
De
NauFrWoa12004
- (F..
.u
). DomduCto
o
121 83
Nautilus 373 92
NavadeRoa195C3
Naver
ra
189C41U7B6
Navan-e. Th-.rry 1-41 M
Navarro 304 E2
Navarro CON'W.I 340 C2
NaveV1.yla340PF2

410
GAZETTEER
Nazotres,IH85F�64'
Noa 195 C4
NoqlH Rock 353 D1
Nobblolo cfAlba 159 03
Nobruka29083
Nockonmarkt 255 D5 l!e1 84
Nodorburs 383 A5
Nffthhnphof383 E2
Nefanous Celtars 296 AS
No.,y, Ch de la 141 C5
Neeot1naka K�1na 267 F� F6
Noll Ellis 383 03
Ne1rane 163 A.2
Ne1ve 161 84
Nekoos 197 A5
Ntilson 367 C5
Nemu281D3283E3F4
Neme1on Estate 283 F6
N-nthe 356 C6
Noragora 274 E3
Nerteult, Dom de 119 F4
Nerthe. Ch la 139 F4
Nervi155G3
Nervo161 E2
N..zmely 263 63
Nouberg. Kromsta/ 25g E1
Noubers, Lelthaberg 280 E4
Nouberg. Mit
t
olburgonland
261 C6
Neuberc. Neusred/ersee
280 F4
Neubef'I, Rhemhessen 239
8485
N•uber1en 259 F3
Nout>ersom 259 F4
Neuchltol 251 62
Neu1t1e 116 85
Neu.,
,_
n227C4231E2E3
Nauquen 330 F4
Neusledl 265 C6
Neus11dlersH 256 F6 260 F4
Neustadt an der We1nstrasse
241 C4
Neuwe1er 244- C4
Nevada 290 81
Nevftihlr 285 F4 F5
New Bloom 274 E3
New England Australia 345 C2
New Hall 249 F4 F5
New Hampshire 290 85
New Jersey 290 85
New Mexico 290 C2
New Vineland 320 F2
Now York 290 65 324 E4
Newborc297 D4
Newsom Vineyards 326 85
Newton 311 C3
Newton Johnson 384 F6
Neyen 334 08
Np Waka 370 84
Np.tarawa 369 C4
N1er1np 356 05
N1ap.ra Escarpment 293 G4
324 E3 E4
N1apra Lakeshore 293 F5
N1qara Peninsula 293 E1
N1apra River 293 F6
N1apra on the Lake 293 F6
Nlchehn1 311 C6
N1ck1I & Nlck1I 314 F4
Nico Lazar1d1, Ch 281 A4
N1colu Chemar1n 73 04
N1colu Gaudry, Dom 123 C4
NICOias Gonln, Dom 162 84 C4
Nicolas Joly 118 A2
Nicolas Maillet. Dom 6Q 03
Nicole Chanr1on, Dom 74 F4
Nieoreftl 273 C&
Nicosia 186 C5
N1ederber&h•lden 233 F2
N1ederhauHn 234 F3 236 G4
N1ederklrchen 241 C4 242 F3
N1edermorachw1hr 125 £4
127BIB2
N11r1teln 238 E4 23Q E4
Nieto Senetlner 340 82
Nlf lilatlar1 285 F3
N•kl H1ll1 Vlllap 386 A5
N1koe Gavalu 281 F4 F!i
Nin• Peake,, Ch 38
8
F5
Nrner 320 82
N1np1a 388 B3 !14
Ninth Island Je
e
02
N•i 2e7 F6
N1tava 287 Fe
N1t1da 3711 F2
N1tra 211
1l
G4
NotNan1ka 211
11
G4
Nlttardl 177 E4
NIZH, Ch de 142 F3
NIZH 1157 E4 15lil
l
Da
Nk'mop Callaro 292 G&
No1373112
Nobtaie, Dom de I& 120 G3
Nobl&Je. la 120 G3
NoblOOH, Domdela14804
No61 ••nd118F4
�I••. Dom IH Haut.ea
117 F2
N01ret1, _, 83 IM
Noorou. ..
.
eaf&
No4zon1, lei 82 C2
Nonnenbtira, Bernkast•I
223 E3
Nonnonb9r1. Rholrtgau 237 E3
Nonnensarten. Na/N 235 F4
Nonnenprten , Pfalz
242B2C2
Nonnenprten, RM/nhes"n
239 C3
Nonnen1tuck � E4 F3
Nonnenwi"l•rt 239 C4 04
Noon 355 D5
Nora 386 85
Nordheim 247 C4
Norholm 234 F3 235 G5
Nort sur Erdr9 116 83
Norte 32 327 05
North Canterbury 367 04 06
North Carolina 290 C5
NorthCoast30362C2
North Dakota 290 A3
North Fork 324 G3
North West 366 01
North Yuba 303 A3
North9rn Sonoma 307 03
Northstar Pepp1r Brldl•
300 84
Norton 340 C2
Nosroy.s. lu 60 G4
NoszvaJ 263 84 85
NothaJten 126 C4
Noto184G6
Nottola 180 84
Nouveau Monde, Dom du
141 C6
Nouvelles, Ch de 141 E2 E3
Nova Gortca 268 E1
Nova Scotia 290 A6
Nova Zqora 274 E4
Nave Branoeo 288 F3
Nov•Zimky266 G4
Novello 163 E2
Novelty Hiil 295 "3
Novi Pazar 274 CS
Novo Selo 274 C1
Novorosa1ysk 277 83
Novy Saidorf 266 G3
Novy Sv1t 277 B3
NoyerBret60G3
Nudo 267 F4
Nurts-St- Geor..1 56 C6
84 G5
Numanthla 196 F2
Nunootpa 34
4
E2 351 84
Nuaabaum 234 F2 F6
Nunbten 242 G2
Nussbrunnan 237 F1
Nusserhof167 c.5
Nussr,.1el 242 82
Nusswmcert 231 E2
Nuzun, Ch 286 F3
Nyotlmber 24g G4
Nyon 252 E4
Nyul 283 62
Nyu"sz6 2fl5 F2
OC...1 192G4
OLuardoSii192G4
O'L..
.-y
Walker 353 E2
Oak Knoll 297 C3
Oak Knoll D1stnct 311 F5
Oak Valley 384 04
Oakdene 369 D3
Oakmont 309 A.1
Oakrk:t1e 363 04
Oakville 311 04 314 F5
Oakville Ranch 314 E5
Oatley 24g G2
Ober - FIOt'1helm 238 G3
23g c1 c2
Oberbers 237 F4
Oberommol 229 C4
Obe'rer Neckar 244 06
Oberer Wald 260 F2 F3
Obere1 HOhlchon 243 F1
Oborfold 25g F2 F3
Ob9rhauaen 234 F3
OberhauHr 257 C4
Oberlolben 257 C4
Obermark•r&dorf265 A4
Oberndorf 234 G3
Oberachaf'fhauHn 245 D3
Ober1tockafall 2S5 114
6b1doo 208 04
Obrl1holm 241 A4
Obsidian "ldp Vineyard
304F&
ObuH Winery aae ce
Occam'• Ptazor 3&9 94
Occidental Vineyard 807 F4
Occidontal Wino• 307 f4
Ocean El&ht 361 F5
Ochoa 1g7 11
11
Octavln. Dom d9 I' 1&1 D&
Odenu 73 O& 70 G3
Odernhe1m 234 F2
Odf)oll 334 C4
Od1ho Anton1ot
t
1 168F2
Od1n1t.al 242 E2
Odoardl 182 D4
Odoboftl 271 C4 C�
Oe1trlch 230 D2 F6
Ofenbors 259 B5
Olfonber1 2511 D5
omda 173 06
Otratoln 238 G3 239 E3
010r 83 F3
01eroau, Dom 118 D2
ouau 255 C5
Ohau 31l7C5
Oh10 290 B5
Ohhpber1231 04
Ohrld 21l7 G5
Olno11nHl1 281 A4
Olry 83 E4
Dlsly 117 B2
Ojal 326 62
OJO do A1ua 340 C2
Okanapn Crush Pad 292 F5
Okanapn Falls 292 G5
Okanapn Valley 292 C6
295 Ee
Oklahoma 290 C3
Oku lzumo Vineyard
386 C3 C4
Okunota 387 B4
Okuroshl 277 84 B5
Okushlr1 386 A.5 85
Olaszhszka 265 E4
Olberg. Saden 245 83
Olborg. Morsteln 240 E4
Olbar& Pfalri42 G2
Old Hiii Vineyard 309 C2
Oldenburg 383 04
Ollfants River 379 02
Ohfantaberg 379 F3
Ohve Farm 347 C2
Ohve Clos de I' 120 F4
OhV9dale 379 F4
Ohver·s Taranp. 365 �
Olivet Lano 307 E5
Olivette, Dom de I' 148 04
Ohvler Merlin 69 E3 E4
Olivier RiY'l.,.
.
199 C6
Ollvtor, I' 121 Cl
Ol1v1er, I', En 67 B2
Ollaun 199 81 G3
Olher-Taillafer, Dom 142 E2
Ollleux Romants. Ch 141 03
Ollon 253 F2
Ollw1ller 126 F3
Oltonoa 273 D2
Oltma 273 E5
OltrepO PaveH 167 E5 F6
Omaka Valley 373 C2
Omlu 286 E3
Omodhoa 284 B5 C5
Onkelchen 235 F4
Ontario 290 A4
Ooermorschwlhr 126 84
Oppenheim 238 E4 240 FS
Opstol 379 F3
Optima 307 C5
Opua 0M 314 F4
OrotdeGuoulos.Chd'135F1
Oren1e 34
4
06
OranJ• Tractor 347 G4
Oratou.. Saint Martin, Dom
137 83 84
Oratolre, Clos de I' 111 C6
Orbanoja 206 C4
Orbel 240 E4
Orbella 274 F1 F2
Orbelua 274 F2
Orchla, Dom de1 152 B6
Orcla 173 C3
Ord61\ez 198 E3
Oro&0n 2go 61
Oromu1 2115 Ce 04
Orftlullle1, Dom d' 121 A5
Ortlla 3211 !12
Or1doRae37gE2
Orient, I' 38784
Orl11nal Grandper1
1
Vineyard
318 66
Orlstano 188 C4
Orleans Hill 318 91
Ormanni in E3
Orm•,enI'&2eeEe
Orme, les Cloa de I' 65 F6
Ormuu, en I', Meursault 61 F4
Orm.au, en I', Santenczy
119G6Ge
Ormeau>1. 111 87 81
Ormet, aux 65 G2 G3
Or,,
,.
,, Clo• d•• ee C2
Ormond 387 Be
Ormot 21111 F4
Ornato 1e3 E&
Ornollala 176 116
Orofino 292 G5
Ororno 333 G5
Orovola 2711 E3
Orachwlhr 12& F3 128 A2
Ortonau 24
4
04
0rtonber1 244 04
OrtoVina202D3
On'Mu>1. •n e& F3
Orvi.to 173 04 111 F4 G4
Orvloto Cluaco 173 04 181 F4
Oryahovtca (Orl&ehovltza)
274 E4
011ka 388 C4
Paradiso, II 1T7 F1
Oooyoo1·Laro10 292 G5
Parodu.x 311 D5
Oatorberl. Alaooo 127 C5
Parafada 163 04
01torbor1, Pfalz 242 B3
Porasull
l
330 D6
01terb1ra, Unt.rthaardt
Paraleo 317 F4
243 G2
ParaJ• Altamlra 340 F1
01thoftln 238 F4 239 B4
Paralolo 327 05 Dll
Oatrov 273 E5
Pore, Clo• du 120 F3
Ostunl 182 115
Pardu 201 E4
Otazu 188 E6
Porduccl 304 D3
Otis Vineyard 298 E5
Parente Garcia 192 G2
Ot
t
, Dom147D2
Paree Balta 201 E3
Otuwh•ro 374 Ee
Par•ny-1•1 Relma 83 A2
Oumalyat, Ch 286 F4
Parido larottl 15e F3 G3
Oupla, Ch d' 141 63
Parlnp 381 F5
OuronH 188 02 192 G2
Parltua 3flg C3 C4
Ou1tal de CazH I' 14J B2
Parker 357 D5
Outrora 217 C2
Paroles• Caw Co-op, la 91 C4
Ouzaloy, las 87 85
P•ro1281 D4
Ovce Pol• 267 G5 Ge
Parpalana 205 Fe
Ovollo 161 62
Parparouaat1 283 E2
Ovorberg 379 G3 384 Ee F8
Parrin• 173 02
0vol'l
llO
UW 383 E2
Parterre, I•, Chassagn•
Ovid. California 311 C6
Montrachet 60 F1
Ovid, Now York 325 C5
Parterre, le, Marsanna,y67 63
Owen Roe 2g7 04
Parva Farm 249 F3
Oxnard 303 G6
Parxet 201 E6
Ozenll
l
69 A6
Pas de Chat, loo 66 F5
Ozurgot1 2T7 C5
Pas de l'E1calette. Dom d•
142 C2
Paardebera 381 04
Pa,aell 285 F3
Paarl 379 F2 383 A4 C4
Pasanau Germans 202 86
Pac1na 177 G6
Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy,
�o dos Cunhas de Santar
Oom 123 83
217 84
Pascal Jollvet 123 83
Paco Garcia 199 83
Pascal Pauget 89 A5
Paddau SecUluu 186 C5
Puchal Winery 295 G3
Padellett1 179 86
Pasch1nprln 269 C3
Pad•li. Dom 145 03
Paseren• 383 D6
Pad1ho1Y 266 F2
Pasj1 Rep 268 F3
Padthawa,y 34
4
F3
f'ask 3e9 C4
Pafos 284 C3
Puo dol Sapo 330 F4
Papn1 Ranch 309 C2
Paso Robl•s 320 82
Papnolla 206 B1 C1
Puquelles, les 60 F2
Pago de Carraove1u 195 C3
Pasqulers, l•s 61 G4
Pago de Larralnzar 197 A4
Pusetemps 59 F3
PagodolosCapollanos19563 Paa
a
ronate Wine 340 C1
Pagos del Roy 195 B3
Pusrto di PantaUena 184 G2
Pahlmeyer 311 ES
Pu1op1sc1aro 186 A5
Paoqallo 163 02
Putrana 205 C1
Painted Rook 292 F6
Paterberk 240 F5
Painted Wolf383 84
Patarprten 127 B2
Pe1xar 192 F4
Patar1anak1s 281 F4
POJ. 161 C2
Paterno 180 04
PaJore 161 D2
Paternoster 182 84
Pajzos 266 D4
Poto, Ch 366 04
Pakhna 284 C5
Pat6cs 286 E2
Palacio 199 G6
Patra (Patru) 281 C2 283 E2
Paltclo da Brejoe1ra 209 G2
Patria 185 A6
Palacio de Bornos 196 F6
Patricia GrHn Cellars 297 C3
Palacio de Canedo 192 F5
Patr1c1u1 265 F3
Palaclo de la Vep 197 84
Patrick ofCo
o
nawar
ra
357 05
Palaclos Remondo 199 CS
Patr1mont0 143 04
P•lac los, Oeacend1enta1 de J Patutohl 367 66
192 F4
Patz & Hall 309 03
Pa1ar1184 Ee
Paulllac 86 B2 91 G5 93 D5
Palazzino, 11 177 F6
Paul Blanc, Ch 136 E1
Palazzone 181 F4
Paul Cluver 384 04
Palaz
z
one, II 17Q C6
Paul Hobbs 307 E5
Palermo 184 E3
Plul Jan1n et F1l1, Dom 74 C6
Palltsar 370 84
Paul Mu, Dom 143 F3
Pallud, en 56 CS
Paul M.unlar-Cent1rnach,
Palma. la 191 F1
Dom 146 D2
Palmola 208 04 215 06 06
Paul Oslcka 359 84
Palmer 324 F1
Pauland1, les 83 C4 04
PaJm1na 320 F2
Paulea, 111 62 D3
Palpa 330 63
Paulott 363 D2
Palv,., Ch 115 E5 D5
Pauhll•s. I• Clos de 145 Fe
Pamha&•n 265 Cl!
Pauhnabor1231 84 66 C4
Pampa, La 330 E4
Paulln1hofb•raar 231 86 C4
Pampiona 188 C4 197 "5
Paulinolll
l
231 B5
Pamukkalo 286 F3
Paulo Laureano 21g F4
Panll
l
la214 84
Paumanok 324 Fl
Penclu 273 C4 C5
Pauplllot, au 80 G4
Pandolft Price 335 Fii
Pavt1dl1 281 M
Pan.vino 11e C6
Pavllkenl 274 03
Panlst•, Dom de 137 E3
Pavlov 266 G3
Pannell, SC 365 05
Paxton 356 D4
Pannonhal<M 2113 B2
Pll
l
no·s RIM 383 E5
Pantallarla 184 G2
Paya Catharo lo 53 G3
Panzaun 259 63 84
Pil
l
•d'Oc53F4
Paolo Bea 181 Fe
Pll
l
ldeBrlvoS3E3
Paolo C•acon1 166 85 187 G4
Pay11ndu 330 E5 332 E3
PapqlannakOI 281 oe
Pazardzh1k 274 E2
Popaloannou lo Pallvoa 283 Fe Pazo d• Bvrant.. 193 84 C4
Papantonio 2113 F4
Pazo ct. Seftorans 1Qi3 &4
Papapl•tro P•rry 307 84
Pcn,ja-0.01ovo 287 GG
Paparl Valley 279 F4
Peachy Can�on 320 Bl
PapelUJbe"I 383 E2
Pearl Mort111tto 293 F4
Pape1 , Clo1 de1 139 E3
Paarmund 323 De
Papallo, Dom do 116 E2
P- 307 C2
Paq1.der11, AUX &8 E2
Pobblobed 24g G2
Paracombe 368 84
Pech Redon. Ch 141 C5
Paradollnha 210 C5
Pech ·C•leyran , Ch 141 C4
ParadlH 233 C4 C5
Poch-Litt, Ch do 141 02
Parad1«1prton 242 G2
Pech Men.I 141 14
Paradl&m 314 F4 G4
Poch.Domdu1111DJ
Paradl1m Hill 391 F6 Fe
Pechate•n 242 E2
Paradis, le 123 C3
P�oNc SI.)' 32• F2
Par&diae IV 369 03
Peca 21!3 C3
Parad1M R1dte 307 06
P•ca1 281
1
E3 G3
""'""�21l3 C3
Podornal 340 D5
Pedernales Cellare 32e C5
Podra Cancel• 217 84
Pedro Parra y Familia 336 G6
Pedroncelli 307 B4
Pedro•• de Ouero 196 B3
Poel 347D2
Peel Eatato 347 D2
Pe-. Clot 311 B2
Posuu• Say 371 F2
Pepu, Dom du139D3
Paclldlo Vineyard 363 DI D2
Peco• Claros 216 De
Pelquo 192 F6
�1ra la 142 03
P11rano 318 02
Peju Provine• 314 £4
Polagonlja·Polo1 287 G5
Pelaqule. Dom 135 C2
Pel•at 133 C6
Poloe llland 293 E1
Pelendr1 284 C5
P"lcan, Dom du 151 04
Pelle1rin1 324 F2
P1llearmo 184 F2
Peller EstatH 293 FS
Pellerln, le 116 82 C2
Pallas Oessua. las 61 F1
Palles Deasous, les 60 G6
Pelllsrlnl Family 307 E6
Pelllngen 259 C1
Pelou><, aux 70 C4
Polter 287D6
Pemberley Farm 347 F2
Pamberton 347 G2
Pena du Donas 192 G2
Pe�aliol 188 D3 195 C3
Petlaranda de Ouero 196 CS
Pondtts 285 E1
Pendore 285 F3
Penedes 188 08 201 E4
Panfolds 351 84
Penfolds Coonawarra Block
20 367 C5
Panfolds Magill Estota 356 83
Penley Estate 357 66
Penna Lane 353 D1
Pannaut1er, Ch de 140 C6
Penner-Ash 297 C3
Pennsylvanla 290 86
Penny's Hill 365 04 06
Penola 34
4
G235706
PenU,e 292 F5
Pantro d1 lsem1a 173 GS
182 A2
Peos Estate 347 F2
Pepe Vineyard, Cloe321 83
Pepper Br1d1e Vineyard
300 84 65
Pepper T,.
..
3fl5 D5
PeppeNlly 347 E2
PerSa340D1
Peral. El 340 01
Perchoa. awe 67 C3
Perchots. les 61 F2
Perchtoldsdorf 255 C4 C5
Perclos, les eo G2
Perdrlel 340 C2
Perdrtlt, aux 64 F2
Perdus, les Cloa 141 P4
Peregr1n• 375 04
Pereira d'OHveira 221 C3 03
Perelada 201 F4
Perelll ·Minotti. M 314 04
P'rez Cruz 334 C4
P9rez Pucuaa 195 B3
Perlcoota 34
4
F4
Perl•ro, la 60 Bil
Perl1ord 53 E2
Perlllo 183 B6
Perlnet 202 C6
P•rnand·Vergelesaea
65D5De57B3
�roll11 1•1 59 E2 F2
Peronn• 89 C6
Perr6on, le 73 04
Perr1•re Noblet . en la 64 F6
P•rr1•re. la, Gevrey
Chaml>ertln 1111 C4 117 !11
Perri.,.
.
, la, SanceMJ 123 93
Perrl•rea t>eaaua, lu eo F6
Perri•,.
.
•.aux60F&
Perrt•re1, CIOI del 80 F&
PlrM•rea, le1, SeauM
62ElllD263C4
Perrl•re•, IH, Meurtault
90D2
Porr..rea, IH, N�lt. .st
Goorge184F4
PlrM...
.
I. IH, PoulJly- Fui ..e
70 D4
Perr16,.
.
a, les. Pul1gny-
/,fontrao�t 110 G4
Perroy 252 E5
l"orry c.- 318 Bf!
Partaronp 'l6& Dti
Porth347C2
l'erth Hiii& 347 D2
Pertlca1a. � A&r ,81 E6
Pertu11ane Dom 145 02
PertutlOtl 82 C3
Poru 330Ba
Peru&ia173C4181E5
PeN1htitaa 2.74 E3
Peuro 173.S8
PHhtera 274 E2
PnodaR'-!208B6210Fl
Pooquora 186 C3
Peoquora do Duen> 195 C3
Peoquie, Ch 136 C4
Pftl&C8503103"2
Petaluma 361
1
C8
P.uluma Evans Vineyard
357"5
PotolumaGap303C2307F6
Petaluma Hanlin H111 363 C2
Peter Dlpol
l
187 Ee
Poter Lehmann 361 C4
Poter MlchUI 3CI7 C8
Peter Seppelt 352 G4
Petlnprot 80 F2
PetitBato1lley93 E49604
Petit Chaumont, Dom du
143 E1
Petit Clos Rousseau 59 01
Petit MalrolM, Dom du 113
F4 F5
Petit Mont. lo Clos du 121 82
PatJt Pults, le ffT 84-
Petit Thou•ra� Ch Ou
120 F1 F2
Petite Baigneuee. la 145 03
Petite Chapelle 88 C4
Petite Combe, la 61 E6
Petite Gor"1e. Ja 131 F2
Petites Fa1renda1, les 69 F5
Petits Cazetlers 87 66
Petits ChaM'Ons, IN 61 F1
Petits Clos, loo 59 FS
Petits Crais. aux 67 B2
PetitsCrais, In 67 81
Petits Eponots, los 62 C2
Petits Garnets. les 61 G4
Petits Godeaux 63 62
Petits Grands Champs les
60 G4
Petits L1ards. aux 63 81
PetitsMonts,lu65F2
Petit.s Musigny, lea 65 F4
Petits Nolzons, lee 62 B1
Patlta No.,.,
,_
_
los60G4
Petits Picot1ns, ta• 63 01
Petits Po1sots. las 61 GS
Petits Vercots les 63 C3
Petits Voupots, les 65 F4
Pot6 265 04
Petro Vuelo 273 C2
Petro10 Lanzi 177 F4
Petrus 109 D5
Pet
t
onthal 240 C5 04
Peu1llets. las 63 C1
Peutes Vlgnes. les 61 F3
Peux Bois 60 F3
�nell.. en 67 A3 B3
Pew1ey Vale 352 F3
Peyrade Ch de la 142 F5
Peyre Ros•. Dom 142 E4
Peyres Roses , Dom
115 D5D6
Pozt 281 F5
Pezenas 142 F3
Pezerollu, IH 62 C2
Pe21nok 256 G3
Pozzi Kine 307 04
f'fillfenbora. Ahr 226 F3
Pfaff'enb•ra. FlheJngau
237 F1 G1
Pfaff'1nbers. Wachau
257 B6 258 E8
Pralfenholm 126 F4 126 B3 B4
Pfaffonhofon 244 C5
Pfatr. nmUtza 239 A2 A3
Pfatrenstein 235 G3
pfalz 223 F2
Pralzel 227 C4
Prarrwlngort 22e F2
Pfectdersh•1m 238 G3
2ag D3 04
Piolfonberc 269 A1 A2
Pftlllfer 369 Ae
Pr1ninlb•r1 2&9 Cl
Pioralpr1 1211 B&
Pftn1atbor112ll A2
Pftnptwe1� 235 F�
Phouant R1d10 3l!e SB
Pheasants Aldp 241
1
F4
Ph•asant's Tear& �N Fl5
Phelps Cre
e
k2116C4
Phlladolphoe 3711 F1 f2
Philip Staley 307 04
Philip Toan1 311 S2
Phlhppti Alllet, Dom l20 �
Ph1hppe kllV9t 152 A4
Phthppe De111vau1t, Dom
118 C1
PM1ppe- GrlMrd 161 ��
Pianc»fieVltn•17QCA
P1arw, 11Uf3
Plenpoworo '1
1
3EJ
Pia.tel�. C �04u1 \la1.ie'y
'!31
1
(4

Potoll M9nctwa MO C2
fD!anchotl du Nord lea
-. leoST!M
P111tot'I '9 131 02
tl3C101
POl'tlmlo 20l
l
f4
Prau.-r Dom de 137 c&
Pla�it 271 04
Portland 296 C3 2117 C4
Pl11"• 190 04
Plann, Ch 145 F4
Porto20l
l
!M211E421204
Plave Mlilanottei 11� �
Plan- Et"" 116 A4
Portocarro Dom211114
Plbamon, Ch lle141 E4
l"laneta. SIC/ly1114 F3
Porto MoniZ 220 Ae
P!caM:ty 347 F2
Plantapnet 347 F4
Porttouo 211
1
E4
P1caHN '" 120 !3
Plante du Ga._ eo G2
Poruaot O.H\.11, la 80 Fe
PICeadllly VaMay 31
1e
C4
P1anto Pitola tn IM
Poru1ot, le 80 Fe
Ptcclninl Dom 141 82
Plantotlt, la 67 B2
Poru1ot1 0.HOUI, let 80 F8
PIOhlpolnt 257 C1 C2
Plant.et au Baron 54 FS
Porvenlr d• Caf'ayate. El
PICkbel'I')' Vineyard 309 C2
Plant.. Mom".,.
.
'·le119G6
331
1
C&
Plko Fltte. la 1!1 E3
PlantH 1.. &7 C2
l"or"9nlr, El 327 E4
P*'•Sovslel!lola, I&&OF6
PlantH, IH, G•Vt'9y
PoaavJ• 267 E3 288 D1
Plod d'Aloup 79 £5
Chambertln fl5 F5
Pollp ¢ara, Pz ZT1 04
Pl&dra No1ra 340 E1
Plante1, I•&. M•uNault 81 E3 Poeolble, Dom du 14& D2
Plodruuoi 320 F2
Plantl..,no ou luart 86 84
PotBola59EeeoF1
P1ektn11rekloof 379 02
Plateaux, le1 M F15
Potazz1ne, 1e 11g C5
pjer.a Eratinl 281 193
Platorle, la 120 C3
Potalto, IH 611 E2
Plerpeolo Ptcorarl 171 D6
Plotl•ro, la F'ommQl'd 82 81
Potay, au 87 82
Pierro Bii•. Ch 118 C2
Platl•re. la Sant•n� &9 G5
Potey, le 87 82
Pierre Cro1, Dom 141 Cl
G860G1
P6ttoladorf255 O&
l"larre Fii. Dom 141 83
Plellvlca 287 E3
Pottor Valley 304 D4
Pierre Lunffu Papin, Dom
Pleasyt, IH 70 F8
Pouderoux, Dom 146 02
117 F3
Ple"9n 27403
Pou1tta, IH 83 C4
Pierre U•MltlO & Flis, Dom
Pllce. lo &II F4
Poullly el
l
F6811F470C4
13ll E3
P&ovd1v 274 E3
Poullly-Fum• 123 85
Pierre VaHlpud 70 C4
Pluchots. les 61 F4
Pouilly-1ur·Loire 117 86
Pierro Virant e6 82
Plum Crook 326 A4
123 C&
Pierre JacqUH Cruet 120 C3 Plump)ack 314 E5
Poujol. Dom du 142 06
P1erreclo. 89 E3
Plumpton Collep �" G4
Poulall"rtl, 1.. 86 F3
Pl&r
res
Plantf
fo,
ChDomdN Plure1, les61F3
Poulottoo, In 84 F4
134 F6
Pluria 266 C&
Pourc1euK, Ch de 147 Cl
Pierre& Vineyard, le&
Poboledo 202 85
PouHI•. la 123 C3
309 D2
Pockatallorn 258 E6 E6
Poutul"91, lee en F6
Pler,.
.
s,JeseoG2
Poderl ai Vallon1 166 F3
Pouvray 121 84
Pierro 349 E6
Poderlna, la 179 C6
Povardario 2&7 G6
Plerry 83E3
Podersdorf255 CS
Po�dorf2'51
1
A6
PltoPOrt 227 C4 231 C3 C4
PodlON� 267 F5
Pra-Vlno 289 F4
Pietra Marina 186 A6
PodravJe 267 E3 268 C1 C2
Pradeaux, Ch 148 E3
Plotracupe 183 84
Poema 209F5
Prado da lracht 188 ES
Pietradolce 185 A5
Poger1no 177 ES
Praelatenbef'l 125 04
P1etroua 273 04
Pogette, le 181 GS
Prqer 313 G4 G6
Pleve Santa Rest1tuta 179 C4 P011
1
0 al Tesoro175 A&
Praha CPracuo> 266 F2
Poqs Ptoko 365 C4
Poa;10 Antico 179 CS
Prllat 233 C2
Plgnler, Dom 1 61 f4
Po11
1
0diSotto17906
Pranzeu 167 cs
PlllQUdet 147 81
PoUoo Scolette 177 04
Prop() 163 C5
Pojanec 267 GS
Poulono, 11 179 04
Prarone De1eu1, le1 59 F4
Pike&Joyce36686
Pogloplano 177 C2
PreilaRate,lellO86
Plkes 353 D2
Polpn 2S7 D1
Predelafolio.le65G2
Piiiar Rock 316 82
Poollanp. en 60 86
PredeManche,le1!1F2F3
Ptllsbury Wme Company
Poont257 93
Precepto1re de C.ntarnach
326 93
Polntas d'Anlles 61 F5
146 02
Plmentiers, IH 63 Cl
Po1ntudeTWllams. !es6203 Proda183D3
Pomont, En eo F2
Po1ntaa, aux 63 Bl
PreJean 326 C4
Plmonbns 131 B4
Poorota St-Georges, In 64 F4
Prellenktrchen 256 C6
Pon, le,Chnon120E4
Poirier du Clos. le 60 GT
Pres, aux 87 81
Pon, le, PomOf'0/ 109 E4
Polset, le 67 84
Presodente, Dom de le 13S 83
Pofto Cellars 314 E5
Po1sets, lea 64 F3
Prespe 267 G6
Plnada 93 F5 96 E4
Polssenot 66 AS
Preseln& Matters 386 F2
Pince-Vin 66 CS
POJer & SandM 166 AS
Prea�r le 120 F5
Pindar 324 E2
167 G4 G6
Preston 307 94
Pme Mountam·Cloverdate
Pokolbln 345 02 385 C4
Pretty-Smith 320 A2
Peak304 F4 307 A4
Pokolbln Estato 365 D6
Preusea 79 04
Pine Ridge 316 82
Pokuplje 267 E3 E4
Prevaux lu 63 C1
Plneaux les 120 F3
PoleAovtce 266 F3 F4
PNivoles, les 62 D3
f'lnallo 347 C2
Polish Hiii 353 D2
Prevostura, la 156 G1
Pinera1e.Ch115C4
Pollztano 180 84
Pr:lde Mountain 311 C2
Ponhia 210 F6
Polkadru.1 Hills 383 El
Prieur Bu. Clos 66 C4
P1nkat'eld 256 E4
Polkura 334 E6
Pr.eur, Clos 68 C4
Plnnacies Vineyard 317 F4
Polporro 361 F6
Pr1euN 8ol"'de-Rou1e Ch
Pons, les 120 C3
Pomorol6504107C6
141 02
Pins.Ch1..14604
109 04
Pr1euN de Montezaraues
Plntoa 1116 F3
Pomono 173 84 177 AS
136 G6
Prntom 340 F2
PommaM:t 65 06 81F662 C1
PrleuN des Mourgues, Ch du
Pipers Bro
o
k36
6
D2
Pommerl.)'9, la 118 84
141 A4
PipersRtver36802
Pommem 227 86
Pr1eur8 Font Juvenal 141 C1
P1que-st1uo, Ch 113 04
Pommier Rougeot 67 B2
Prleur4 St-Jean de B•blan
Plquemal, Dom 145 04
Pomor1e 274 E5 E6
142 F3
Plrl08 263 F2
Pomport 113 E6
Pr1gonr1eux 113 E5
Pirie 36
6
02E2
Ponc1'- Ch de 74 C6
Pr11orJe Bllocora 267 E4
Piro171D6
Pondalowoo 369 83
Prllep 267 GS
Plron, Dom74 E4
Ponterrada 192 F5
Prime1ra Palxlo 221 D3
P1rram1mma 366 D4
Pont de CrozH 133 A4
Pr1m1tlvo di Mandur1a 182 B5
Pisa Ranp Eatato 376 C5
Pontatx . les 133 A4
Primitive di Mandurla Dolce
Pooa, Italy 173 A2
Ponto da Bop 1112 G3
Naturale 182 CS
Ploa,NewZealan<l375C6
Pontovadra 188 C1 193 C4
Primo 356 D4 D6
P1sano 332 G3
Ponz1 297 C4
Prlmoroka 287 E3 268 01
PJoono VlnoyaM:I 317 F4
Pool•'• Rock 366 05
Primoslc 171 De
Possa 283 F2
Pooley 366 F2
Prince Albert 369 03
Plthon·Palll• Dom Bolorsua
Poonawatto 361 C6 362 E3
Prince Edwll
l
'd County 293
11802
Poonawatta E•tate 352 E<4
E1 E2
Pothon, Dom 1411 04
Poplar Grove 2112 F6
Prince $tlrbey 273 D3
Pll:O<s,Clo159F6
Popovo 274 04
Prlnclpal, El 334 C4
Pltallla 284 C3
PopplM 370 C5
Principe Cor1ln1 1T7 C3
Plt
tac
um192F5
Pora 181 C2
Principe de Viana 197 D5
Poturo
o
O.
.
oua81E6
Porlottoo loo 611 E2
Priorot 188 D& 200 F6 202 C4
P1zzato 331 F4
Porona;urup 347 G4
Prlase ee F4 70 A4
Pizzini 359 86
Porrora 202 C6
Proc••· IH 84 F&
Plzzomo 332 G3
Porroux IH86F886C1
Prodom 28& G3
PiadeB-188 08
PorH1e1nbe11
1
391 C&
Producere of Mclaren Val•
Pia I Llavant188GI
Pol1: Guyot 120 01
366 04
Pla<;e, la67 92
Porta 334 C6
Producteur• Platmont 115 E2
Pl&ceo,let60G2
Portal dot Alto 334 C4
Promontory 314 F<4
P1achen260G3
Portal do F'ldai10 209 G3
Prophet'• Flock 3711 ce
P1aoa
anco,
Ch 116 E5
Portal, Clot d•202 03 D4
Propr1eta Sperlno 168 G1
F>tala1r de M*"1e 383 C4
Portal..,.
.
2111C6ce
ProH, Dom de la 142 E&
PlandeDlO\o136C3137C3
Porte ,.Wiies ou Muralltee du Proaeeco 166 C4
Planat
t
o C1.tar1nen1e 330 06
Cloa 116 00
Prosser 290 Fe
Planchou de ta Champ..nei.
Portor C-k 307 04
Protoa, Ribera del Ouero
le1f53C101
Port•1 f•utllH. IH &7 Bl
19& C3
i-
-
roto• Ru•d• 199 F6
Ca tf"l1nho de 211 F'2
Prova.la36804
Cauotltlo M�hor de :212 Gl
l"rownance 31'4 E3
'Cavtd1nha ( Warr• ) rJa 210
Prulter1 IH84 F4F6
C ntro do?1YC5
l'ruzlllySii G373 llS88A5
Cl'\Ocapalha. de 215 04
Po&,ot �87 E6 F5
COa do 212 G3
PtLoo3111F&
Confradtt1ro. d o ?10 04
PtuJ 288 F3
CoruJlo. do 217 85
l"tUJtka Klot 2&9 F3
Cos t a du Aguan•was. da
PucellH, IH eo G3
210 r1
Pucer271AT
Coit "' de 811xo 210 F3
Puchan1 Vineyard 388 A4
Coata.
.
da 210 0'5
Putch Haut, Ch 142 08
Couqu1nho do 21 2 03
Pupt Sound 295 B3 E6
Couselo 193 E3
Pu1nan• 183 D3
Cova da B1rca1 da 212 F6
Pu1doux 262 06
Covelos. de 210 F2
Pull Parahy, Dom 146 F4
Crasto. do 210 F3 F4
Pul1leulx 83 B6
Cruzeiro, do 210 05
PullMllJln 86 D5
Curraca, dos '210 F1
Puita Merdreau• 60 Gl
Domouro 219 05
Puita, 10 eo 02
Dona Matilde 210 G2
PuJanza 1Si
it
9G6
E1ra Velha da 210 E6
Puklavc Family Wine• 269 F4 E(tvlda 2 1 0 Fl
Pulchon 2211 !12
Encontro d o 217 C2
Pulonta Eotato 340 C2
Ervamo1ra da 212 G3
Pullsny Montrachet 155 06
falotca da 21 7 84
80F3
Farfao. do 211 G6 212 E2
Pulkau 26
6
A4
Fata, da 217 84
PulV9rbuck 246 C2 C3
Ferrad da 210 G3
Punch 383 B3
Ferradosa, da 211 F3
PUnderlch 227 85
Ferre Fetta da 210 E5 E6
Punt Road 31
1
304
FOJO� do 210 D6
Puplllo 184 G6
Fontamhas, das 21 1 G6 212 F2
Purbech 266 C6
Fonte Souto. da 219 CS
Purcarl '1:71 A2
Fonte. da 21 0 05
Puoolt 186 CB
Foz de A. rouce. de 217 03
Pusztam•f'les 263 C4
Foz de Tem1lobos , da 210 G2
Puy Arnaud, Ch Clos 107 E5
Foz Torto de 210 ES
Puy Notre Dame, le 116 C5
Foz, da 210 E6 G2
Puy Serv&.1n, Ch 113 E4
Frades. dos 210 G2
PuY1U•lhem 113 F5
Gr�cha, da 211 El
Puym,ras 135 84
Gr1fo, do 212 G6
Pyramid Valley 371 E2
lnfantado do 210 F4
PyrtnHS 34
4
F3f435982
Junco. do 210 E5
Lagar Novo do 216 85
Qanafar, Ch 286 G4
Lagares. dos 210 06
Qtu du Marlas 217 C3 C4
La1es das 210 F6
Quady 303 04
Leda. da Z12 G4
Quady North 295 G2
Lemos de 217 B4
Qualia' Gate 292 E5
Lomba, do 217 CS
Quart1ers de Nu1ts. les 65 F3
Loubaztm. do211 F6211 E2
Quartlers, les 63 BS
Macedos, de 210 G6
Quartomoro 186 C4
Madalena, da 210 F6
Quarts de·Chaume 116 84
Maias, das 217 C5
118 92
Malvedos {Graham). dos 21 1 El
Quarts, Clos du Ch des
ManoeUa, da ZIO 05
70E5F6
Mar1as, d as 217 C4
Quarts, Ch des 70 ES
Mar1t&11ora de 212 F6
Quarts, les 70 C3
Marrocos de 210 Gl
Quart z Reef375 06
Marvalhas das 212 G4
Quattro Mano 351 84
Meco, do 212 F3 G3
Quebec 290 A5
Melgayo, de 209 F4
Queenstown 367 E3 375 D3
Merouco, do 211 El
Querc1abella 1n 04
Mondego, do 217 C4
Qu•ron, Clos 120 G6
Monte d '01ro, do 21S BS
Queue de Harang 67 Bl
Monte X1sto, do 212 F3
Queylus 293 G4
Morgad10 de Cali;ad a 210 ES
Qu1nc1• en Beaujolais 73 05
Mun;as CEsporio}. dos 210 G2
Qu1ncy 117 C4
Muros dos 210 06
Murta da 215 C4
QUINTAS
Napoles de 210 G3
Abelhe1ra, da 2 1 0 06
Nespere1ra, da 217 85
Ab1bes, dos 217 C2
Netas. das 210 ES
Ac1prestes, dos 211 El
Nova 210 F4
Agua Alta, da 210 F4
Novado Ronca.a 210 E6
Alameda. d e 217 84
Noval, do 210 ES
Alc ube, de 212 ES
Ohve1rmha, da 210 FS
Alegria, d a 211 F2 F3
Orgal do 212 F3
Alva1anas de 209 F5
PanascaL do 210 GS
Alv1to, do 210 ES
Pancas. de 21S 85
Amaf'ela 210 ES
Passadouro, do 210 05 06
Arno zelo, do 211 G4 212 El Fl
Pedra Escr1ta, da 212 F2
Assares, de 212 C3 03
Pedra, da 209 G2 G3
Atalde do 21 2 D3
Pego, do 210 G5
Bage1ras, das 217 C2
Peltada da 217 CS
Bagumha, da 209 G2
Perd 1gao, do 217 B4
Batxo, de 217 C2
Pel"'dlz., da 210 F6
Bande1 ras, das 212 E3
Peso, do 210 Fl
Barbusano, do 221 81 82
Pessegue1oro do 21 0 E6
Bica, da 217 CS
Plloto, do 215 ES
81spado, do 212 G4
P1ntas 210 E5 E6
Boa Vista, da 210 F4
Pinto, do 21S 84
Born Retire, do210 F5
P1sca, da 21 0 F4
Bomfim {Low), do 210 F S F6
Po�a da 210 F4
Sons Ares, dos 212 G2
Poe1ra do 210 E5
Brag&o, do 210D5
Portal, do210 05
Cabana, da 210 F2
Portela. da 210 G2
Cabece,s do Reguengo 219 CS Porto, do 210 F5
Cabrerra da 212 F3
Pre lada. da 210 E2
Cabr•t (DAo Sul) de 217 C4
Quartas, das 210 Fl
CachAo de Arnozelo 211 G4
Quatro Ventas dos
Cachio, do 211 G2
211 G4G5212F1 F2
Caedo, do 211 [1
Quetzal, do219 F4
CnnAda da 212 03
Regueira, do 209 F4
Canajs, dos 211 F4
Ret1ro Antigo, do 210 F5
Canfll do 210 GT G2
R!belra, da Sra. da 211 F4 F6
212E1
R1be1ro Santo, do 217 C4
Roeda (Croft) do 210 F6
Rom1.ne1r1.. da 210 ES
Aom•rr,:o de 210 Fl
Pou Oe!a210f.'6
RQllrlo Ja&ra do!211 G2
S Bento de 210 Ofl
Saas d• 717 C!5
aa:r·41Jo do 210 r 6
.S.1 rrt10 211 G?
Sa.n M1rt1nho ri1J 211 f2
ant Ana, dA 215 C.4
.,anta Eurem1a. cJe 210 Gl
Santiago, de 209 G1 G2
Sant1nho, do 211 G6
SloJos• de 210 t.6
$lo LUil 210 F4
Seixo, do 210 F6
Sequeira, da 212 Fl
S1bio do 210 E6211 E1
S1dr6. do 211 G2
Slfval. do 210 DS 06
Soalhe!ro, de 209 F4
Soito do 217 84
Sol. do 210 G2
Solar dos Lobos 219 E5
Sta Barbara. de '210 F1
211 E1 F1
Sto Antonto, de 210 06
Tecede1ras das 210 E:6
Tedo, do 210 F3
Tolhada da 211 G6 212 E2
Tour11a da 212 F3
Tua, do 211 E2
Turqu1de de 217 84
UrtJga da 210 F5
Urze. da 212 G4
Vacar11, da 210 Fl
Yacaru;a, da 217 C2
Vale Coelho. do 211 G5 G6
212 E2
Vale da Mina 211 G5 212 El
Vale da Raposa do'210 El
Vale das Ta.rpu. do 212 F2 G2
Vale de Cavalos '2'12 Fl F2
Val• de F11ue1ra, do 210 FS
Vale de Malhadas. do 211 G5
212 E2 F2
Vale Dona Maria 210 F6
Vale Meio do212 E3
Vallado. do 210 fl
Vargellas (Taytor), de 211 D4
Vasques de Carvalho
210 E5 F5
Vau, do 211 El
Vegra da 217 BS
Veiga Redonda, da 212 FS GS
Veiga da 212 Gl
Velha210 Fl Gl
Ventozelo de Z1 0 F6
Verdelhas. das 212 G4
Vesuv10,do211GS212ElE2
Vila Matar. de 212 E3
Vila Velha . da 21
1
El
Vtnhas de Are1a. das 215 C3
Vista Alegre, da 210 F5
Zambu1al do 210 F2
Zambu1e1ro do 219 E5
Z1mbro, do 211 E1
Quintanilla de Ones1mo 195 C2
Quintay 334 03
Qumtessa 314 D4
Qu1ntodec1mo 1 83 A6
Qu1v1ra 307 C4
Quucote 315 B2
Quoin Rock 383 03
Qupe 320 E3
Ruts 383 E1
Rabaia 161 C3
Rabasse Charavln, Dom
137 94
Raboatun 20S CS
Ra¢a 266 G3
Racha 277 84 BS
Radford 351 CS 352 E3 E4
Radford Dale 383 F2
Radgonske Gorlce 269 E3
Radikon 171 06
Rafael Pal&e10$ 192 G4
Rafanelh, A 307 C4
Racer 261 C4
Ra.gna1e, le 179 C5
Raiot Dom 68 E6
Ra.guem8res, IH 120 C3
Raiding 255 06 261 C3 C4
Ra1d1s Estate 357 ES
Ra11nots aux 65 F2
Ra1ssac, Ch de 141 BS
Ral<o 379 G3
Rakv1ce 266 G3
Rallo 184 F2
Ram's Gate 309 F3
Ramandolo 155 C5 C6
Ramaye, Dom de la 115 06
Ramey 307 C6
Ram1rana 334 06
Ram6n Bilbao 1Q9 F3
Ramon do Cu.ar 1Q2 G2
Rampante 185 AS
Ranc ..ua "334 CS
QAZITTllft 411
PlancM onla110D3
ptancM• H 83 De
"•ncho Sl1quoc 320 E J
Raney Dom de 1.4& 03
Jl
l;
andel"'l&tker 247 C4
Ran&en 126 G'.1
Rancte la 83 Ce
R•ny 286 E4
Rapaura 373 83
Aapaura Sprlnp 373 1!13
Rapazz1n1 317 04
Rape! 330 E4
Raphael 324 E2
Raph..I Bartucci 162 A4
Rapitol• 184 f3
Rappahannock '123 06
Aapdn1 281 83
Raran&1 373 A-4
Rqcov 277 A1
AHpall Ay, Dom 137 Cl5
Ratteau 135 83 137 84
Ratau uH. 1.. 63 01
Rath"nny 249 G-4
Rttka 266 F2
Rato11e1, lea 63 02
Ratsc:h 265 F4
Ratte, Dom 151 06
Rattlesn•k• Hiiis 2i5 86
296 E4 E6
Aaubern 267 C5
Raul 229 C4
Raul P6r"9z Bodq.u y V11\edo1
192 G5
Raury, Jes 67 C2
Rausch 229 F1
Ravelles, les 60 E4
Ravanswood 309 C3 03
Ravent6s 1 Blanc 201 E4
Ravera 163 E2
Ravera d1 Monfort• 183 F4
Ravine Vineyards 293 F5
Ravines 325 C4
Aav1olles. aux 54 G8 65 GT
Ravry, au 67 B3
Ray Jane. Dom 148 E4
Rayas Ch 139 04
Raymond 314 D3
Raymond Ussegho & Flis,
Dom 139 E3
Razac de S.usstgnac 113 E'4
RDV 323 D5
Real Martin, Ch 147 C2
Real S.t10 de Ventos1lla 195 84
R•as, aux 65 GT
R9as, le Clos des 65 F2 G2
Reb1chets, lH 60 F2
Rebou�a 209 GT
Recanat1 287 ES
Reca1"'9do 201 E4
Rocq 273 C2
Rkhaux, la 67 A1
Rechbachel 242 E2
Rechmtz 255 E5
RK1lles. les 67 84
Rec1oto d1 Soave 16S E3
Rector1e. Dom de la 145 F6
RedEdge359B3
Rod Hill 361 F5
Red Hill Douglas County
29S F2
Red Hill Vineyard 295 F2
Rod Hills 304 ES
Red Mountain '295 85
298 F1 E6
Red Nowt 325 C5
Red Rooster 292 F5
Rod Tail Rodp 325 84
Red Willow Vineyard 298 E3
Redcar 307 E5
Roddy V1noyaM:la 326 85
Rodosdale Estate 359 84
Rodpte 349 GS
Rodhawk 297 E3
RedhHd 351 CS
Redheads Studio 35
5
D5
Rodman 357 85
Redondo 219 E5
Redrescut 63 81
Redstone 293 F3
Redwo
od
Valley 304 03
Rertno,lal!1F662C1
R-ts. 1.. 60 G4
Regleno165F2
R..
..
14MFS73C574E3
75 E3
R'8oa 192G3
R-do-p;o209F5
�219 F5
R..u..,.
.,.
doMona
a
raz
208E6 219 F6
Roeuoci316C3
Rtlcholzhalm 247 C2 C3
ftolt'9n
c
..
..
..
lu.Ch318F6
Rol1 2271!16
Flallly's 363 02
llotma638481C383A4
l'lolnonpr 30
0
84
R•..nthal 26Q C3
Roltorpfad 242 G2
Re1adorada 196 F3
Aaland le Clos SQ F8 60 Gl

412
GAZETTEER
R4'm61eanne, Dom la 135 Cl
Remelluri 199 F-4
Romoyerho
f
231
1
D5
Remho
opo
383 03
Remjc:k Rid.. 309 82
Remllly, en60F3
Remlrez de Ganuza 199 F5
Rom1ta1·Stut
tprt
24
4
ce
Ronardat·Ftcho 152A4
Renardes, les 63 C5
Renardo�re,Domdela151D5
Renato Keber 171 DS
RoneBourpon68D5
R.,
,._
Clos 109 D2 D3
R_,
,
mark 34
4
E3
Ron,,.
..
259B4B5
Rentena 311 ES
Renwick 373 C2
Aenwood 318 85
Reschke 357 AS
Raserva de CaJ1boro 335 E4
R..
.,_
d'O,Domdela142D3
Ressler. le Clos 70 ES F6
Restless River 384 F5
Retz 255 A4
Rotzlatf 317 A3
Retzstadt 247 83
Rouano 61 E2
Reu1Uy 117 C..
Revana 313 F4
R4Welette. Dom 146 B6
Reverie 311 B2
Aeversees, Jes 62 04
Rex Hill 297 C4
Reyne. Ch la 115 C4
Reynoke 393 E1
Reynolds Wrne Growers
219 06
Aeysses. les 70 C4
Rhebokskloof393 A4
Rhelnber1. Rhemgau 237 G4
Rhelnbera. Rhelnhessen
239 64
Rh11naorton 237 Gl
Ahe1ngau 223 E2
Rhe1nhell 237 G2
Rhe1nhesHn 223 E2
Rhe1ntal251 AS
Rhode Island 290 86
Rhodt 241 C4
Rhous -Tarn1olak11 281 F4 FS
Rhys 317 C2
Rhythm Stick 353 D2
R1ach1 286 F4
Rias 8alxas 198 C1
R1bagnac 113 ES
A1baudy, la 131 F1
A1beauv111• 125 04 127 C'4
R1be1ra Sacra 188 C2 192 G3
R1be1ro 188 C2 192 G2
Ribera d'Ebro 202 E3 E4
Ribera del Duero 188 03
Ribera del Guadiana 188 E2
Ribera d•I Jucar 188 E4
Ribera d•I Laco 335 03
R1boroch, Dom 146 D3 E3
R1bonnet, Dom de 115 F5
R1cardelle. Ch 141 C4
Ricardo Santoa 340 B3
Rlcuoll 177 F6
Richard Dinner Vineyard
30981
AIChard Hamilton 355 04
Richard Kershaw 384 E4
Richard, Ch 113 E5
Richardo, on la 110 F3
Rlchaume, Dom 147 C1
Riche, lo 371 E3
l'lichobouri, lo 66 F4 85 F2
RK:hemone, la ee F1
Richland 295 !16 299 E1
Richmond Grove 361 C4
,.IChou, Dom 118 83
Rickety BMdp 383 DO
P'llckoty Gato 347 G3
P'lld1•307 C6
llldp Lyt
ton
Sprlnp 307 C4
Rid&•. Northern Sonoma
307 C4
FUd... Santa Cruz Mountain•
317 82
R1d1oback 3711 F2
A1dpvlow 24g G4
Rl•be•k c.11ar1 311 ee
R1oboekWoot 37gF2 31
1
A6
l'liebf
f
k·Ka1teel 381 915
R-kbor1381 B5
Pl18bMk1,.Mer 311 86
A1eclne 1n E&
,._1 246 84
l'l
l
oplfold 228 F4
Rlopr1bur1 266 F4
RAjcllurt, Pou/l
ly
-FIJl1N 70 116
f\IJCkurt Jura 161 06
AIJk'I 379 E2
ll
ll
lylaMontqno131M
,.,m-.,,.
.
eq,Domde14702
F11..
..
vokAiobot•-Gi
i
,.
.
,,_.,
,
Dom141A!2
"'neon v1no1ard a20 C2
Pl
l
nco<loda. la321C3C4
Rlo28302
Rlo N..
..
.,
330F4
Rio Sordo 1151 D2
Rloja 198 C4
Roota Alta, la 199 F3
Rloja, La 330 04
R\01 Lovell 317 A.3
Rlotte, la 88 C2
R1otta, lea. Beaune 62 C1 01
Rlottos, lo1, Meursault 151 E3
Ropalllo 162 A6
R•pl, lo 179 D6
Rippon 376 84 B5
Roquewlhr 125 04 127 83
A1sct.1, Marqu•a d• 199 GS
Rlodall Ranch 297 B3
Ritchie Cre
e
k31182
Ritchie Vineyard 307 E5
R1tsch 230 F6
A1tterprten 2..2 82
Rlttorpfad 229 C1 C2
Ritzllng 257 82
R1vadavla 340 c..
R1vassl 163 E2
Rivaton, Dom 145 D3
R1vaux, les 61 E3
AIYU 252 E6
Rive Orolte 251 C1 252 F3
River Junction 303 C3
River Rood 307 D5
River Aun 317 D3
A1vera, ltaly182 A4
Alvera. Urugua,y 330 ES
332 E3
Rlvorhead 324 F1
Riverine 34
4
E6
R1verland 334 E2
R1verpo1nt 367 86
A1versdale 366 F2
Rlvea·-81anques, Ch 140 06
R1vtera dm Garda Bresclano
165D2168E3
Riviera Ll&ure di Ponente
157 F3 G4
Alv18re, au deasu1 de la 65 G1
R1volet 73 E4
RIZ9s 283 F3
A1zz1 1e1 E2
Roa d• Duero 195 8..
Rood 13 292 G5
Ro..x 135 83 137 85
Roanok•324 F1
Rob Dolan 363 D3
Robordelle 61 F4
Robo 334G2
Rob9rt 81ale 311 ES
Robert Crall 311 A3
Rabort Hall 320 B2
Robert Keenan 311 82
Robert Mondovi 314 F4
Robert Muollor 307 C6
Robert Oatley 349 D5
Robert Plqeolea et Fils
116 D6
Robert Stnokoy 316 A!2
Robert Youn1 Estate 307 BS
Robert·Oenopnt , Dom
7004
Robertson 379 F3
Robertson W1n•ry 379 F3
Rob1nvale 344 E3 E4
Robledo 309 D3
Robola Cooperative of
Cepha!oma 281 C2
Robyn Drayton 366 04
R<><: d An1lade 143 C2
Roe d•• An&e• 145 D3
Roe,Chlo115E6
Rocall•re. Dom la 138 G6
Rocca d1 Cutq:noll 177 F6
Rocca di Montesroul 177 F5
Rocche del'Annunz1ata 163 C3
Rocche di Castllllone 183 04
Aocchettevlno 163 C2 C3
R<><:fort 121 85
Rochalne, IH 131 86
Aoche aux MolnH, la 118 A2
Roch• ,.ec:lonne, Ch 148 04
Roch• Vlneuff, la 89 E4
Rocho,Clo•dela081!2
Roche, aur la 70 A3
R0<:hofort· 1ur Loire 118 114
118 82
Plochotudo 136 1!2
l'lochollo. la, Chlnon 120 F3
l'lochollo. la , Co//fomla 317 A3
PlochollH, Dom de• 111 A6
AochWo. la 121 1!16
Rochu Nevve1, Dom d..
11g f4
ll
l
och... lee 121 93
l'lochosorvt•ro 118 C2
l'lochooter 325 A3
R<><:hotto St Jean 120 F4
llochO¥Hlo, Dom de ,,g Fl
llachford 31
13
C5
Roch1011. J 3IYT D6
Aochouard, Dom du
120C303
A��k.burn
'37& 0&
"°<.kforcl 361 °"'
R<><:kpllo 303 Bl 307 1!12
Rock.I Dlstr�t of
Mitton Frffwater, Th1
300 84 85
Rocoul• 133 C5
Roca, Dom Clo1 des 70 06
Rodo.199 F3
R6dchon 237 F4
Rodda, A359 A6
Rodd1 1113 A4
R6del1H 247 C4
Rodorn 125 D4
Rodney Strong 307 D6
R6dos (Rhodes) 281 EB
Roederer 304 E2
Rooro 157 F3 159 D3
Roser Lasaarat, Dom 70 A2
Roger Sabon, Dom 139 E3
Ro-rl 163 C3
Rognet-
-
Corton, le 63 CS
Ao1u• Valley 29S G2
Rohrondorf266 84 259 D3
Roi, Clos du 62 C6
Roi,leClosdu63C.-
Rolchottes 63 A2
Rolot, Dom 161 D5
Rolf Binder 361 C4
Rolland Wines 340 E1
Roma 173 E4 F4
Romqna Albana 165 G3
173 A5
Romagna Papdeb1t 16S G4
173 65
Romagna Sanglovese 165 G3
173 A5
Romagna Trebblano 16S G4
173 A5
Romqnlens, les 6'I E3
Romain , Ch 113 E5
Rom..na, les 123 C3 C4
Romankhe Thor1ns 73 CEI
74 C6
Romane. St V1vant 65 F2
RomanM Conti, la 65 F2
Romanff, la. Gevrey
Chambert'n e6 AS
Roman... la, Nut
ts
··St
Georges66F2
Roman... la, San- 59 F6
Romusan (Dom ott), Ch
14604
Rombouor 313 E4
RomboM 181 02
Romeo del C.stello 185A4
ROmorn.,. 23
3
D304
R6merstem Mart1nhof
2l
lO
G4
Romney Park 366 C5
Roncaatl• 1151 D1
Roncqllotto 161 D2
Ronc, 120 G6
Ronco!e, Dom du 120 G6
Ronceret, te 61 F-4
Ronch•vrat 70 82
Ronchl 1151 C2
Ranchi di C1alla 171 86
Ronc"re 64 F4
Ronc..rea 79 F3
Ronco del Gelao 171 04
Ronco del Gnem1z 171 C3
Roncua 171 06
Rondl•ro•. IN 60 88
Rontotl. Ch de• 70 E5
Roque SHti•re 141 C3
Roquo-Poyro, Ch 113 E4
Roquemaure, la &Q F15
Roq�o. Dom lo 13g E3
Rorick Horltop Vlnoyord
318 D4
Rooa d'Oro 304 E6
Roll, La. Chilo 334 D8
ROH. la, Italy 1113 C4
Rosacker 127 84
Aaulla 255 Gii 200 Gl
Plo1azzo 16S 05
R01chltz 256 A4
Rose Pau1llac, la 93 C5
RoHbur& 296 F2
RoHll Boher 340 83
Rosella 1 Vineyard 317 F4
R0Hmary'1 Vineyard 320 C2
RoHnbors, Ahr 2211 F3
RoHnber&, S.rnka•t•I
233C4E3F3
RoHnbera, Lelthaberg
200 E3
AoHnbera. Natt. 234 F6
236 G3
AOMnbers, Neu1tedlerHe
20
0
E4
P'loaenbori, Ploaport
231D3D4
Ro19nber1. /lfheinfr'ont
240 C4
Aotenber&. Saar
22g14c3C4
llc1
10f1l
llrtc
hon231F2F3
�. s.t'nka1tel
23
3
00
_,.
.,.
..
.,
,
RhOIMQOU
2al!G2
Roaenprten, /lfhelnh ..aen
239A4D203
Ro11nkranz 2-46 C2
RoHnlay 233 F2
RoHnthal 2211 F3
Ro11ttH, IH 120 G3
Roolly Vlnoyord 349 DB
ROH... di Dolcoacqua 167 G3
Ro11ld1 274 E4
Roaalya (Ruu11) 277 A4
Aono Conero 173 C6 06
ROSIO di Montalclno 179 C4
Aouo Piceno 173 oe
Aosao Piceno Superlore
173 E6
Ro1tov-na Oonu 277 A4
Rote Hald• 245 82
Rotenber1. Germany 239 02
Rot•nber1. Romania 273 C4
Rotonfals 235 E5 F5
Aotenf•lser Im Wtnkel 235 F6
Aoten1teln 239 83
Rotord 231 E3 E4
Rotfald 234G6
Rothenbera, Rhemfto
o
nt
240 B5 C5
Rothenberg Rhemgau
236 G4 237 F3
Rothenber1. Wachau 257 B4
Rothenhof257 B5
Rot1er Dom 11S E6
Rouanne, de 135 83
Roublud . Ch 134 F6
Roudn1ce nad Labem 266 E2
Rouet, Ch du 147 C3
Routfach 126 F4 126 63
Rouf
ft
gnac-de S1goulh 113 ES
Roup Garance. Dom 135 D1
Roup Gorge, Clos du 145 D3
Roupeard , Clos 119 F4
Rou1eots , lei 61 F1
Rougoo- la 61 F5
RoupsduBu,les65F3
Rou..a du Desaus, les 66 E3
Round Hill 314 04
Round Pond 314 E4
Rouquette-sur-Mer, Ch 141 C5
Rousse Wine Housa 274 C4
Rousselle, la 60 G4
Rousset les Vicnes 135 A3
Routas , Ch 147 C2
Rouvalls 283 E3
Rouv"re {Dom Bunan), Ch la
148 04
Rouvret
t
es,las6381
Rovellats 201 E3
Aovellott 156 G3
Roxanlch 271 A1
Roxhelm 234 E3
Roxyann 295 G2
Roy, Clos du 67 C6
Roy, le Clos du 123 C3
Royol Tok&JI Wine Co 266 F2
Royer. Ciao 63 D5
Rozier 131 86
Roz.ler. le 67 82
Rubaiyat IMarufujl) 397 B4
Ruca Mal•n 340 C2
Aucahue 335 E3
Aue"' d1 Cutqnole
Monferrato 1159 C4
Ruchotl, In 85 F5 811 C1
Ruchottos du Be1 Oi
i
84
RuchottH du 0.Hua 96 &4
lludd 314 E6
Rudora 393 E3
PludOlholm 238 E2 G2
Ru, 1113 02
PlueauPore81Fe
Aue aux Vachea, la 90 G4
RuodoChaux04F4
Fluedo'lef'&Y86El
l
88 Bl
"u•deVW&Y.anla6'iFe
86 191
Rue Rouueau 80 G3
Rued Vineyard 307 E5
Rueda 188 E3 190 F5
Ptuftna 177 Ae
Ru1len1·Bu, IH 81 F&
Ru&1on1 · Haut1, In l51 E5
Ru11plrl Blodynam1c Vineyard
279 E3
Rully56 D61181!16
Rumolla 274 E2 E3
Plupel274 F2
Rupert lo Rathochlld 383 C4
Ruppertobors 241 C4 242 G3
Pluoack 321 C6
RUH (AOUIH) 274 C4
Ruoolan Hiii 307 DO
RutaJan •'Iver Va lley
307 E6 E8
Au11lz SupmrfOl'9 171 06
Ruot 265 C& 2l
lO
G3
Ruotenv..-313E3
Ruotonbors 383 D3
Ruttrld.. 31
1
Cl5
Rutherford 311 C4 313 G6 011
!14 E4
Rutherford Miii 314 04
Ruther1l•n .,.
..
..
..
F!369.t.e
Ruthorston Eotate1 3611 All
San Luis Oblopo 320 Cl C2
Satlul, V 313 G6
Rutlnl 3'IO D1
SanMortin340DI!
Soto376 C6
Rymlll 367 A6
San Ml,IU� de Tucuml.n
5"'oraljo{ljhlly :MS C6
339 D6
�tov 211
11
G3
SU.I• Unetrut 223 �
San M11u1I del Hu1qu1 334 E6 Satlnol<hlll 279 E3 E4
Surbura 227 D3 2211 F2
San Pablo 3'IO D1
Sotz260E4G3
S.arf1llHr-
-
Mart1nberg
San Pedro 336 D2
Sotzan259F2
229 D2 D3
San Pedro de Yacochuya
SWcellto Canyon 320 C2
Sable de Camaraue 53 G4
339 C4
S&ucour1, IM 63 A1 81
Sabio Rldp 309 Bl
San Polino 179 C6
Saules,oux06G2
Sablot 135 B3 137 C6
San Rafael 330 E4
Soulholm 238 E3
Sablon•ttes, Dom dH 118 03 San Severo 1112 A3
Saul<><:h 239 C3
Sablan•, loa 120 D2 D3
San Vicente de ta Son•lerra
Sau""'lon 242 A2
Sach1on 223 D6
198 A6 198 F4
SaurMlzo Michelin, Dom
Sacktrqor 240 G6
Sancerre 117 85 123 B3
70A3
Sacramento 303 B3 318 C2
Sanctus 107 D3
Saumur 116 B6 119 E4
Sacred Hiil 369 84
S.nctu1, Ch 286 D4
5aumur.QiampJ1
11
y119F4
Sacy 83 1!13
Sand ·Rockonor 326 83
Saumur. Cav• de 119 F4
Saddloback 314 E6
Sandalrord 347 C2 349 E6 EB Saunl6re1, IN 59 D2
Sad1• Family 381 D4
Sandblrc 229 B2
S.uska TokaJ 266 G4
Sadova 273 D3
SandVUb 237 E2 F3
Sau1stsnac 113 E5
S.doya 387 B4
Sandvubo 269 D2
Sauss1lles, lea 82 C2
Suculum Cellars 326 83
Sandhurat 248 G3
Saussois, en 61 01
5urlng 126 A1
Sandidge. CR 295 A6
Saute aux Loups 120 G4
Sagemoor Vineyard 299 E1
Sandi and Other Favourable
Saut&meo85F4105 G288F4
$ahy 266 G4
Landa In the South
S.uvaponno, Ch la -D3
Sa1llon 253 G2
273 D3 D4
Savqe 379 F2
s..nt Clalr Family Estate
Sanford 321 C4
Savannah Channel 317 C2
373 83
Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Savartnes, Dom des 116 C4
Saints Hills 271 A1
321 C4
SovateN'O 369 86
Salntsbury 309 D5 311 GS
Sang des Callloux, Dom le
Savenn1•res 118 81
Saito 8udoen 386 C6
137 04
Sevigny 66 D5
Sakal (Burdup) 386 66
Sangiacomo Vlnoyord 309 D3 Sevigny lk-Boauno 63 C1
Sakaorl, Ch 397 B4
Sanhe Wine 388 A5 A6
Savuto 182 04
Salado Croak 303 D3
Sankt Cyr1akusst1f't 239 CS
Saxenburg393 E'1
Salamandre 317 D3
Sankt Georgenber1
Saxum 320 B1
Salcheto 180 C4
239 C3 C4
Sazano 277 C5
Salem 295 D2 297 E3
Sankt M1chaelabara: 245 84
Sbragia Family 307 93
Salente1n 340 E1
Sanlucar da Barrameda
ScogpVineyord311E3
Sa11..ch 253 F4
198F2204A6
ScalaDel20286
Sallee Salentlno 182 C5 05
Sann10 182 A3 183 A4 AS
Scah379 F2
Sallcuttl 179 C6
Sansonn1ere, Dom de la 118 ES 5"anzo 167 D5
Sallhll 285 F3
Sant'Antamo 179 C4
Searob9e,Domlo145F5
Salina, la 273 63
Sant Sadurm d'Anola 201 E4
Scarborough 36
6
04
Sahnas 303 D3 317 E3
SantaBertadeChanco
Scarecrow 314 E4
Salltaao 347 G2
335 G4
Scarpantoni 355 05
Sallt
t
s,Ch141C1
Santa Carolina 334 C3
&ooux. los 62 04
Salkh1no 277 84 C4
S.nta Clore Valley 317 C3
Schaffhausen 251 A4
S.111 Estate 274 D6
SantaCruz317D2
&han11ten 260 E5
Salles-Arbulssonnu·en
Santa Cruz Mountmn 317 C2
Scharff'enb9r1er 304 E2
Beaujolais 73 E5
Santa. Cruz Mountams 317 81 Schll
l'
rachberghe1m 125 A5
Sally's Padd<><:k 359 B2
Santa Due, Dom 137 C5
Scharzhofberg 229 C4
Salnesur Palacio de Fafii\anes
SantaEma334C.-
&hotzgarton 23
3
C6
193 83
Santa Julia 3'IO B4
Scherbental 267 01
Salpetr16ro. la 120 C2 02
Santa Lucia 182 A4
5"hood 317 G5
S.lt Lick Vineyard 326 C6
Santa Lucia H1&hlands
&heldterberl 229 D1
S.lta33004339A685
317 F4 G4
&honkonblchl 259 A3 B3
332 E3
Santa Maria 320 D3
5"hleferley 228 F2 F4
S.lto 330 E5
Santa Marta Valley 320 E2
Sch1efern 259 F4
S.ltram 351 C6
Santa Morta192 G4
Sch1es1lay 231 F1
Salvatore Molettler1 183 86
Santa Monica 334 C5
Schistes. Dom des 146 03
S.lvlon1 179 85
Santa Rita 334 C4
&hlanpnllf'abon 229 C2 02
Salyon 277 C6
Santa Ron, Argentina
Schlou Hohenresehen
S•lzblrg 260 F4
3'IOD6
240 E3
Sam Miranda 359 85
Santa Roaa. CaJ
J
fomla 303
Schloss Johannlsberg
Sam&ott35604
82 307 E6
236 F4 F5
5'mburoftl 273 D3
Santa Sarah 274 D6
Schloss Re1chartshausen
Same1reto 277 84
Santa Vonore 182 DS
236 G6 237 G1
Same1r•s 192 G2
Santa Ynez Valley 320 F3
Schloss Sa
a
rfelaer
5'.mos281 05
321 C5
5"hlossblr1 229 G2 G3
Sampagny, en 67 82
Santenay 55 D5 59 E2
Schlon Saaratetner 229 G2
Samsara 320 F2
Santonats 8)-"cs, los 151 F3
Schloss Schwllbabur1 2.o E3
Samtrodla 277 C4
Santenots O.uous . les 81 F3 Schloss Staufenberg 24
4
04
Samuel Tlnon 265 E4
Sa.ntenota du Mllleu, lea 61 F3 &hlou Vollro.ds 236 F6
Samuel's Gorp 355 C4
Santiago 330 E3 E4
Schloss. Oppenheim 240 G6
San Antonio 334 E4 333 D6
333 D5 06
&hlou, Wonnogau 231
1
84C4
San Antonio de las Minas
Santo Spirito 186 A6
&hlossborg. Alsace 127 83
327 F3 F4
Santo Stefano (Barbare1co)
Schlosabara. Baden
San Antonio Valley 303 E3
181 831113 E4
246A5C1D2
San Bernabe 317 G5
Santo Wlnff 281 E5
Schlosaber1, Bernka.at•I
San Bernabe Vineyard 317 G& Santolln 383 03
23
3
8602E2E6F2G3G4
San Borondon 2.04 86
Santamu 271 A1
&hlo11bors. Pfalz 242 E2
San Carloo 339 C5
Santorlnl 281 E..
SchloHbert. Ffheln fro
o
nt
Son C•rlos 340 F2
Sad dol Co1ta 202 C4
240 F5
San Colombano 167 E5
Slo Domlngoo 217 C2
Schlo1aber&. Rh•lngau 239
San Cr1stoforo 181 C3
Slo Jolo da Paoquolra 211 F2
F5 237 G2
San Esteban 334 C2 C3
Sapporo (Kat1unuma) 387 B'4 Schloo•borl. S<Jar
San Esteban de Gormaz
Sapporo !Okayama) 390 C4
22gaac3E2
lgs ce
Sapporo Fujino 3911 A6
Schfo11bera. Wachau 287 IM
S.n Follco, Italy 177 F5
SaNcen Eatate• 3"49 O&
Cli25gF1
San Felipe, Chllo 334 C2
Saroclna 304 E3
5"hlo..b6ckolha1m 234 F3
San Fernando 33'4- 06
S.roftn 2!l6 F3
236G1 G2
San Francesco 182 D6
Sarah'• 111neyard 317 Dl
&hloHprton, Badon 246 C1
San Franclaco 303 C2
S.rt,jovo 267 F4
Schlonaarten, fl
l
tt.1noau
San FrancllCO l!lay 303 C2 D3 Sarat1 277 A2
23e G3 G4
317 Al
6'rauad4ny 2&6 E6
Schl01
1
1prt•n. ffheJn1-•Hn
San Glml11"ano 173 83 177 E1 Sarda· Malot. Dom 146 E4
239 E3
San Giusto a Aentennana
Sordqna Samldano 1811 D4
Schmalllotor 21
1
0[3
177 G8
Sord6n d• Duoro 191; C2
Schnablo 211
11
D3
San JoH, A�ntJna 3'40 Of
�rlca Nlculll•I 273 C5 D6
&hnockonl>orS239 l3 !4
San Jooo, Cailfo f'fl
la
303 03
larm&NO183D2
Schodon 221
1
D2
317 1!12
Sarmiento 330 F4
Sc"°-nbour1127 IM C4
San Juan,/\�Cina 330 E4
$oronlborc 379 E2
Sch6n 20l
l
D&
34000
5'ro1pe,tak 203 A6 265 D5
&h<inb1•1 2M 84
SanJuen.Spain20604
Sarl'la197 Al
l
5"Nlnho11 236 F6
Son�ardo188G3
Sar
rln
l.Chdes147C2C3
Scf"lrader C.Hara 31� El" 82
San Lorenzo di Verduno
SUalJ•2116£2
!ichromobor1 111 B2
183 A3
-h 24981
'$chrack 2159 01
SanLOf'Onio,lfarolo103D2
-1 186 84
&:hf'91berbert: 267 e:;
San Loronio, Sicily 186 A4
SU.0,.,Chde120G4
Sch"6tten o 1&g F4
SanLucul03E4317ii&
S.t11ny 262 F I
rlChlbartHOe.&

GIAZITTIEI" 411
Schube-rtal� 231 ':.3
S.V.rna 'f
f
kedon�a 2t17 Gi
i
&irok1 llM..
.
21!7 F4
'°"�·Cloetit!CZ
St MarlONtMn 2ee C6
9t-Symph- ·d'AncellH
Stephane "'-d•m•, Dom
Schuchmann 279 E�
Sev1len 28& G3
�1tla211 F6
SorW&,IHtit!C1
St Marya VIMYard 31
1
7C6
73 Ce
118 Q4
Schul Carnero• 309 E3
Se\l
llt
a111F2
Slt
t
alla 347 C2
Sordea, I•• 15& F8
St Matthiu (�Hla) 3tltl D2 St·Urbl.1n 97 C•
S�anMa· fl
l:
otenl&rtcNn
SChutt 2S7 C4
S.Vl
l
tat:atata393E4
S1tzendorl'2M 84
Sof'sontt•re. la 117 B1
St NlkOlllU• 238 Fe Fe Ge
St·V..
.
ande7Q473Il
l!
23
3
Q4
SchOtMn 266 C&
Seymour 34
4
Q4Ge
Slvlpa 216 E&
Soriano 330 E5
St Stefan 258 F3
St lllncent. Cloa 147 Ae
Stephen1'000320C2
Sc:hiltienhaua W F1
sro rzato di Yaltalllna 167 C6
si. St1ma 304 Fe
Sorin, Oom 141 D3
St Supjry 314 £4
Sta lllta Hlllo 320 E3 321 CJ
Storhnc 311 112
SChlltienhutta 240 �6 GB
'haanxl 38116
Snctlne, Ch 13'1 E3
Sorrenbars 31
1
11Atl
St Thomaa, Ch :1
11
11
FS
Stadocken 231 E3
Stattan. /laden 244 Dtl
SChwabObur1 238 E4 2'40 F3 Shabo :l'77 A2
S1zla1, 1.. e2 C3
Soryu 38784
St·Altnan 117 112
Stadia 213 F3
Stattan. f'rankon 247 !13
SCh-n 244 Cf!
Shabran 277 ce
Slzzano 16e G4 1e1 D4
Sotar 297 D3
StAlbert,Dom14702
Staata Landt 373 B2
Steve Wlblln't 363 E3
Schwa,.z•nateln 236 �4 Fe
Sltadowfax 369 04
Sjovama Dalmaoija 271 C2 C3 Sotlllo da La l'llbara 1115 B4
St Amour && Fe !lll G4 74Ae Stac'• Leap Wine Callaro
SU.
.
n Kont 317 113
Schw•11•n �, E3
Shafer 316 92
Skadarskot Jez..-a 2&7 G&
Sottocut.llo di No'#Wllo
73Be7eAeAe
315 C2
Stovanot31104
Sch-..r 31
1
B2
Shako 1'11dp Ranch 318 C3
Skaftdlt 283 F1
1tl3 F2
St·And'°l 136 A1
Stapcoach Vineyard 311 De
Steyer. Nah• 236 F"4
SChwyz 251 B4
Shalaurl 279 E3
Skahca 2tltl G3
Sottounert 261 06
St AndN de Fl1u1•r•1 Dom
Stacl
l
n Famlly 314 F3 F4
Steyer, Slovenia 215Q E3
Scl•ra Nuova 186 A"4
Shandon1 388 B6
SkaulJ 271 C3
Souch, Oom do 115 G1
147 02
Staca Leap Dlatrlct 311 E6
Stlaplatal 26!1 De
Sclavoa 281 C2
Shan1rl La 381 B4
Skllloplaa 363 D1
Soucherl•, Ch 118 C2
St·Andrlau, Oom 142 D3
315B2
Stlrt 242 E3
Scof)9tona 17g 9&
Shannon 384 03
Sk1nn•r 318 98
Souchon1, Dom de• 74 E4
Stllnna113F396E3
Staca' Leap Winery 31e 92
Stlrt1bar122e F3
5eorpo 3e1 F5
Shannon 1'11d1• 304 E5
SkopJ• 2e1 Ge
Soutrand"""· Oom do la 70 E5 St·,.ntonln, Dom 142 E1
Sta11ar. P•M 317 C2
Stlna 271 04
Scotchman• Hiii 369 03
Shanxi 318 B6
Skouru 283 F4
SoufrandiH, Dom de la 70 04 St Aubin 66 D6 eo D2
Stalndl 381 F8
Stirn 2211 E2
Scott Basa 375 O&
Shapotou, Ch 388 84
Sky311 E4
Soula, Dom le 146 02
St·Balllon, Dom da 147 C2
Stalnz 266 F3
Stlxnaualadl 258 ce
So
o
tt Harvey WlnH 318 C3
Sharpham 249 G2
Slavonlja 287 E4
Soulanea, Dom dH 146 03
St Barth4temy-d'Anjou 11e B6 StaJaraka SlovanlJa
Sta laldro da Ptl,0
0
•215Dtl
Scott Paul 2117 03
Shaulhnauy, O' 311 "3
SlavonlJ• I PodunavlJe 267 E4
Soultzmatt 125 F3 12B A3
St Bric• 89 E5
2811E3G1G2
Stockton 303 C3 318 02
Screamln1 Eacl• 314 Ee
Shaw • Smith 358 06
Sleepy Hollow Vineyard
Soumade, Dom la 137 86
St Brla 56 B3
Stambolovo 274 E4
Stollar2117 03
!leurok 171 C5
Shaw Vineyard 309 B2
317 F3 F4
Soumah 3e3 D6
St-Chrlotol 141 08
Stammertdorr 266 B6
Stolpman 321 C6
Sa
a
Horaa 217 F5
Showapta 2411 F5
Sl•laht of Hand 300 B4
Soumard 123 C6
St Cl•mant·de la· Place
Standin1Stone 32'5 C'5
StanaCot
tqa
Collara 32e A4
Sea Smoke Vineyard
Shao ll1nayard 297 C3
Sllvan 274 D4
Source, Dom de la 147 Ae
11B B4
Stan1I 259 A5
Stana Houaa 326 86
321 C3 C4
Sheehan 32e B4
Sllvermlet 380 A4
Sou• Blacny eo Fe
St·Cooma. Ch da 137 C5
Stanlaka Park 2411 F4
Stone Tree Vineyard 298 05
Soattlt 296 A3 E6
Shaldrake Point 325 C5
Slou1hhou1e 318 C2 C3
Souo F�lla 83 85
St-Cyrtuao, Ch 136 F1
Stanton &. KlllMn 3'59 Ae
Stonecroft 3eQ C4
Snver Vineyards 311 81 82
Shamakha (Sama>d) 271 C6
Slovlicko 266 F4
Soua la Rocha 611 E3 E4
St Dania, Cloa,
Star Lene 321 Ce
Stonaatraat 307 C5
Saavay 311 C4
Shenandoah 318 85
Slovanljo 2B7 E3
Sous la Valla tll "1 B1 E2
Morey ·St·Denls ee C2
Stara Zqora 274 E4
Stoney Rloa 3tltl D2
S.avlew Vineyard 307 02
Shenandoah Valley 323 E4
Slovenaka latra 271 A2
Soua le 8011 de Noll et Bellee
St Oenl1, Clot,
Stardarl 1e1 A3
Stoney Vineyard 386 F2
Sabutlanl 309 D3
Shepparton 34
4
F4F5359A5
268 D4
Flllaa e3A4
Voono -Roman4• e6 F3
Stark Cond• 383 E3
Stonier 381 F'5
S.butopol 307 E5
Sherwood 371 F2
Slovansk• NM Ma&to 266 GB Sous la Calllar tl1 E3
St D'al'°' 62 C2
Storkanbur1 244 A5
Stony Brook 383 DB
SabalApold Z73 C3
Shlluh 285 G6
Smith Madrona 311 B2
Soua la Cltltaau e1 A1 B1
St Didier 1ur-Beaujeu 73 C4 Story Plzenoc 2tltl F1
Stony Hiil 313 E3
S'chor 79 E3
Shimano Wlnory 38B C3 C4
Smith's Vineyard 359 B6
Soua la Courthll 60 F4
St·Drenry141 oe
State Guest. Ch 318 F&
Stony, Ch da 142 F5
Saolantao Adontro 339 B4
Sh1n1loba<k 355 04
Sm1thbro
o
k347F2
Sou& le Doe d'Ane 60 F6
St·Emlllon 85 De 107 02
Statella 186 .A-4
Storl 279 E3
Secondlne CSorl San Lorenzo) Shlnn 324 E1
Smolenlce 266 G3
Sou1 le Pulte 80 E4 F4
109 F6 111 E3
Stlucen1 277 Al
Storm 384 FB
161 C2
Sh1nshu Takayama 396 C5
Snake River \/allay 295 F6
Sous Roch• 1!1 81 82
StEat'P"a85B29105
Stavropol ZT7 84
Storrs 317 02
Setovce 266 GS
Sh1on 387 A.4
Snipes MountlJn 295 C6
Sous Roche Dumay 60 E3
93 A4
StaW911 34
4
F3
Storybook Mountain 311 Al
Seddon 374 E5
Shirvan 277 C6
298 E4 F4
South Baaaarabla 277 A1 A2
St·Eotm da N4rl, Ch 135 E5 Sto Mi<:hella. Ch 295 A3
Straden 255 F4
Sedona 326 B3
Shoalhaven Coast 346 El
Snoqualmie 298 F6
South Burnett 346 A2
St Etlenne- dea·Oulllha
Sta Na11a (l\aahl) 387 B4
Strandveld 379 G3
Saebarg 269 113
Shobbrook 351 C3
Snows Lake 304 F5
South Carolina 290 C5
73 06
Sto-1\ptho 131 C3
Straos 255 84 259 B5
S-1 287 E4
Short Htlls Bench 293 G4
Snowy Pnka 326114
'>outh Cout 326 82
St· Etienne lav.,.
.
nne 73 06
Sta And..
..
. Ch286E4
Strathbo.ie Ran1es 344 F6
Segarcaa 273 D2 D3
Shottaabro
o
ka36506
Soavo 165 E3 189 G3
South Coast Winery 326 83
St-Florent le Viall 116 83
Ste Anne, Ch 1'48 E5
3511 B5
Selh..lo 307 C5
Shqlplrise (Albania) 2B7 G5
Soave Classlco 185 E3 169 G4 Soutli Dakota 290 B3
St·Gayan, Dom 137C5
Ste ·Anne. Dom 136 C1
Stratus 293 F5
sav16s. Ch de 135 F5
Shumen 274 05
Soava Colli SCaJl1orl 169 F4
South Hiil 384 E3
St Genaoux d..-Sc1sH 69 C4 Ste- CK1le 135 83
Strawberry Hill 249 F3
Solcuret 135 B3 137 B5
Shuml Tsinanadah Estate
Sobaranae Vineyard 317 F4
Southbro
o
k Vineyards 293 F5 st·Gaar&•• 85 D5
Ste-Croix- du Mont 86 E4
Stra.J:n1ca 286 G3
Se1berberg 257 B1 B2
279 E4
Sobon 318 B5
Southeastern Anatoha
St Geor..s d'Orqun 141 E5
105 114
Stred•nadBodrocom266GB
Sellgarton 239 B2 B3
Shuswap 292 C5 C6
Soflya 274 E2
286 G5
St-Georps ·St-E:mlhon 111 85 Sta Eulalia, Ch 141 B2
Stredoslovensk& 266 G6
Sal�uk 285 G3
SHVO Yoneyards 287 D5
Sojourn Cellars 309 03
Southern Fleurieu 344 F1
St Georps- sur-Loire 116 84 Ste - Foy la- Grande 85 De
Streteker 349 05
Solondl 285 F3
Stdawood 356 C4 04
Sokol Blosser 297 03
355 E4
StGoorps,las114F3
113 E4
Strekov 286 G4
Salla 156 G1
S1d6n10 de Sousa 217 82
Sol Payre, Dom 145 F5
Southern Flinders Ranges
St Germatn, Dom 162 C5
Sta Macdelalna, Cloe
Stroftha 281 04
Sella & Mosca 186 84
Sidur1 307 E6
Solanes del Molar 202 D3
344 02
St-Gervaia 136 C1
148 Dtl
Stroump1 284 C4
Salle (Dom Ott), Ch de 147 C3 Slebeldln1en 241 D4
Solano County Gre
e
n Valley
Southern Highlands 345 El
St Gu1lhem-I• DHert 53 F4
Ste -Mane la Blanche 53 04
Strumlca-Aadov1a 267 G6
Setvap1ana IT
T
A5
S1efershelm 238 F2
303 C3
Southern Oregon 296 G2
St Hllalre-St·Florant 116 B5
Ste· Maria, Dom 141 C2
Stuhlmuller 307 C5
Sembl� 117B1
Slegol 335 D1
Soled (Asahi Youshu) 387 84
Southern Rllht 384 G5
St Hilaire, Ck>a 83 04
Ste -Maure-ct.Touraine 117 C1 Sturovo 266 G4
Semoll 283 F6
Slogelsberg 237 F2 G2
Sohs 317 D3
Southern \/allays 373 C2
St Hlppolyte Allace 126 D4
Sta Roaa. Dom 142 F2
Stuttprt 223 F3 244 D5 Dtl
Senator 273 C6
Slogendorf255 C5
Solitude, Dom de lo, Bordeaux Souvera1n 307 84
127 08
Staala 304 E5
Subottea 267 E5
Send1ana 296 F4
Siena 173 B3 177 G4
103 G5
Sovana 173 03
St Hlppolyta, LOlre 117 C2
Steenber1 380 05
Suchot, en 67 B1
Senec 266 G4
Sierra Cantabria 199 F4
Solitude. Dom de la.
Spadafora 184 E3
St Hune. Clos 127 EM
�tafan lloda 277 A1
Suchots. Jes 65 F2 F3
Seneca Lake 325 C5
Sierra de Salamanca 188 02
Chdteauneu(du Pape
Spangler 295 F2
St lmer, Clos 12e 84
�··fln••tl 273 D3 04
Sucre 330 C4
Senmlao. Ch 390 B3 84
Sierra de San Cristobal
139 E4
Sparklln& Pointe 324 E2
St-Jacques e7 83
Stefano Lub1ana 36
6
F2
Sudak 277 B3
Sel'torfo de Arlnzano 197 84
205 E5 F5
Solms Delta 383 D4
Speyer 241 C6
St Jacques d'A.lbas, Ch
Stofanslay 231 C5
SUdstelermark 255 G6
SeOorlode San Vicente 199 F4 Sierra Foothllls 303 84 C4
Sologny 69 E3
Sphora 287 F4 F5
141 C1
Stelfonsber1 233 B5 BB
Sutrrene, Dom la 149 04
Senpatina Ice Wlne, Dom
318C3
Solon. Clos 6B C2
Spice Route 379 F2
St -Jacques, aux 64 F6
Staog 239 C2 C3
Suisun Valley 303 83 C3
368A6116
Slarra Madre Vineyard 320 E3 Solothurn 251 83
Splcewood Vineyards 326 C6 St-Jacques, le Cloa 66 85
Stalpr 257 B3
Sukhlndol (Suh1ndol) 274 03
Sent.er du Clou. sur le 60 02 Sierra Mar 317 F4
Solut'"' Poullly 55 F5 69 F3
Sple1el, Alsace 126 A1
St-Jean- de Braye 117 A3
Ste11erdell 236 F6
Sulzfeld 247 C4
Sentlors,los115FB66C1
Sierra Vista 318 84
70C3C4
Sp1e1el . Kamptal 259 84
St-Jean de Ouras 113 F4 F6
Sta1pr-ld 247 04
Sumad1ia 267 F5
Seppelt Great Western
Sierra 263 F4
Somerset West 379 G2
Sple1ol. KromstaJ 259 D1
St-Jean de-la Porta 152 C5
Steln -8ockenhelm 238 F2
Sumark:lae 384F5
35901
so-. Clos da los 340 E1
383 G3
Spielberg 242 B1 B2
St Jean. Clos 60 F2
Steln -Grubler 126 86
Summa Vineyard 307 03
Seppeltafleld 361 B3 C3
Sigalas 281 E5
Somlolre 116 C4
Sp1er 383 E2
St-Jean, M"'oc 89 C2
Stein, KNmsta/ 255 83 267
Summerftetd 359 82
SepsEstate311111
Slglos 261 C6
Soml6v&sar/toly 263 B2
Spiess 242 G2
St Joan , Santanay 59 D2
B6 259 E1
Summerhill Pyramid 292 F5
Sept 286 E4
Signac, Ch 135 C1
Sommerach 247 C4
Sploonkop 384 E3 E4
St-Jeatre- Prieure 152 C5
Stein, Rhetnhessen 239 B4
Summers 311 A1
5'pbmo 340C2
Slgnartues 136 01 D2
Sommorbars 127 B1
Splropoulo1 283 F3
St Joseph 129 A2 131 F1
Steinacker 242 A2 82
Summit: Lake 311 A3
Sequoia Grove 314 E4
Slgnorollo 311 E5
Sommerhalde 246 AS
Sptti 25
5
B3 256 De
St Joaaph, Clos 147 115
Sta1nbera. Nahe 235 G3
Sunbury 344 G4 3511 C4
Saro38604
S1golshe1m 125 04 127 82
Sommarwende 239 82
Spitzer Point 256 05
St-Julien Beychevelle 85 82
Steinberg. Pfalz 242 Cl C2
Sungurtare 274 05
Saroflno35506
Soj nn 379 G4
Somm1•res 142 C6
Split 267 F4 271 C4
95 E5
Steinberg, Rhemgau 237 Fl
Sunnyside 295 B5 299 E3
Sared' 266 G4
Sokl6s 263 D3
Somonta.no 188 C6
Spoleto 181 F6
St Julien, Bordeaux 95 E4
Steinbarsor 229 B2
Suntory (ShloJ1n), Nagano
S.redl265E4
Silberberg. Ahr 226 F3
Somoza 192 G3
Sporen 127 83
93F497A3
Stembllhl 239 A3
386C5
Sarena,ta179C6
Sllberbers. Badon 246 84 C4 Songe, en 66 86
Sportolottl 161 E6
St Julien, Burgundy 73 ES
Ste1nborz 256 06
Suntory (Torm No Okal.
S.ra
a
ln Eatate 373 C2
Sllberbera, RM/nhessen
Sonn� 120 F6
Spottswoodo 313 F4
St Jullen, Clos 111 E4
Stelnbuck 245 C2
Ya manashi 387 84
Sergio A<:url 182 D5
239 C2 D2
Sonnenberc Ahr226 F4 F5
Spring Mountain 311 C3
St Jullens, aux 64 F6
Ste1nbuckel 243 F2
Sunyard Wine Co 3B
B
A4
Sermfers 83 83
Sllbarblchl 257 C6 269 F1
Sonnanbers. Nohe 234 F6 G6
Spring Mountain D1str1ct
St·Lacar 73 D5 74 F4
Staonbilhal 259 E2
Super Sincte 383 El
Sarpona. leo 81 F5
Sllen1 369C4
Sonnenbera. Rhelngau
311C2313E3
St Landelln, Clo& 126 B2
Steiner 2!57 BS
Super1n 257 B3 EM
Serpe-res. aux 63 "2
S1llery B3 B6
237F3F4G4
Spring Valley 30
0
A5 84
St-Lannes, Dom de 115 E2
Steiner Vineyard 309 81
Superuco 340 El
Se,.,.
.
1e3 E5
Sliva Dukalakl 281 F4
Sonnenberg. Rhelnhessen
Sprmlfleld 379 F3
St Laurent·dos.Yltnas 113 E5 Steinert 128 B3
Sur les Vr1s 63 CS
Sar
ra
do Sudoata 330 E6
Silver Height& 390 84
239 C3 03
Sprinlfontoln 379 G2 G3
St Loionard 253 F3
Stolnortal 257 B5
Sur Roches 61 ES
SarraGauche33008331Ee SolverOak314F5
Sonnenberg, Saar
Sprlnzenbert 269 F2
St·Macolre 85 F4
Stelnf'elsen 245 D2
Susana Esteban 219 04
Serra,la163C2
Sliver Thread 325C4 C5
229A4C2 E3F4G5
Spy Valley 373 C1
St Martin da la Garrll\)a, Ch
Stalnprton 351 E4 352 E3
Silssonbars257B4C5259E1
Sarraboella 1B1 C4
Sol11erado 316 B2
Sonnen&1anz 127 C3
Squlnzano 182 86
142 F3
Stetngrube, Baden
SutcllW. Vineyards 326 A4
Ser
r
acopeth181A4
Sdv10 Nardi 179 84
Sonnanlay 233 C4 G1 G2
Srblja (Serbia) 267 F6
St·Martin, Cloa 111 E3
Z45B1B3C4
Sutor 268 F3
Serracovallo 182 D3
Sllwarvio 379 F1 F2
Sonnenscheln 226 f4
Srednjo I Ju!na DalmaclJa
St Maurice 136 B3
Stelncrube. Rhem/Jes
se
n
Sutter Hortl9 313 GS
Serragrlllt 1B1 84
Slmllkameon Valley 292 C6
Sonnensttlll 2151 84
271 D3 04
St Maurie•, Ch 135 C2
239 B3
Sutton Gran1• 359 83
Serrolunp.d'Alba 183 04 D5
29& Etl
Sonnenuhr. Sernkaste/
Srem 287 ES
St-Nloolu·de· Bouraue1I
Stolnhaldo 245 B3
Suvareto 175 D5 06
Sar
rat
383C4
Simona, Ch 148 CB
233D2E3F1
St Amant 318 D2
116Btl120D2
Steinhaus 259 83
Suvla 285 F3
Sama&Maurd,Dom141D2
Slmon1bar1 Pa
arl
363 C3 C4 Sonnenuhr, PIHPOrt 231 F3
St llnna 2e5 F4
St - Pantallk>n les·VllflH
Ste1nkaul 226 F4
Suz• la· Rousse 135 B2
s.r-0om1&Clo
o
dtl142 03 Slmon1bers Stellenbosch
Sonnlaltan 258 Ee
St Charla• Vlnoyarcl 317 C2
13e A3
Steinklotz 126 A5
Svl�Pz(Badal181
1
2)27104
s.rv.ZT3 C4
383 D3
Sonolta 32B B3
St Clair 328 B4
St Paul 120 G4
Stalnlaothn 269 E2
Sv1r1 277 C5
5al'l
l)'
,On70 C3
Slmonall 383 02
Sonolta Ylnayarda 3211 B4
St Clement 313 F4
St·�ray 129 E2
Ste1nmusel 269 A.3 83
S\llahtov 274 C3
S.otl 179 04
Slmon•vle1 383 83 C3
Sonoma 309 03
St Clement, Ch 286 G4
St· Philbert de·Grand -Lleu
Ste1nmoraen 237 F2 G2
Sw.n DlatMct 347 C2
Set
ta
ao
r.1B4F3
Slmpaons 249 G6
Sonoma Cout 303 Bl
St Couoalr 388 C6
1111 C2
Stelnrloel 257 B1
SwanHNI34
4
F4
Satubal20804215E5
S1naplu• 3811 D2
307 C6 E2
St David's Bench 293 Fl5
St-Plorre da·CI..
.
.263F3
Ste1nsatz 259 84
SwanValley347C2
SaWbal. Ptonlnsula d• 208E4 Sina Qua Non 326 B2
Sonoma Mountain 309 C2
St Francia 3011 A1
St Pou,.
..
aln5304
Stelnwand 257 C2
5-314E4
Satzbart 268 08
Sln..rrladal 2511 Ctl
Sonoma Valley 308 B2 F3
St Gallen 251 A5
St·P..
.
fart' Dom 139 E3
Stelnwln1ert 235 G3
Swartlond 371
1
E231
1
1C4
Saurey.la•112C4
Sinai•, Dom 146 D5
311 D3
St Goorpn 26e C6
St Roch. Ch 13e Ftl
Stella Balla 3411 F5 Fe
SwvtJondWinery381C4
Saurlat,la6308
Sinner2eOF2F3
Sonom1·Cutrer 307 05
St Hallett 361 03
St Romain tl1 Al
Stalla di Campalto 1711 De
-lahHNl326B5
Sevutopol 277 B2
Stan251C3253F3
Sons ofEdan 351 llfi362 04
St Holono 311 C3 313 Fe
St Saphorln 252 Ell
Stellanbooch 3711 F2 383 E3
Swollandam 379 G4
Seven Hilla 30
0
86
sron
n
..
.-.
1aatit!C1
So
o
at 255 C4
314 D3
St·Saturnln 141 D3
Stallanboo<h Hiii• 383 E2
Switchback Rldp sn 113
S.
..
nHiiiaVineyard3008"
SirLambert37902
Soprai:•nerl 251 04 C6
St Holana Bay 3711 E1 E2
St.S.uveur 113 Ee
Stellenruat 383 E2
Sycamore VoMY"rd 314 E3
Seven Sprtnp Vlney•rd
Slrocuaa 184 G8
Sopron 283 B2
St Huborta 3e3 04
St· Sabutlan, Dom 146 F4
SteUenzicht 383 E3
Sydney 346 E1
297 D3
Slrla27312
Soquol 317 C2
St Jean, Ch 3011 A2 B2
St·Sernln '13 F4
Stettzner 316 82
Sylvie 6e C5 Ce
S.Venhlll 363 02
Slro Pacentl 179 B6
Sorano 163 C4
St Louis Dini. Ch 390 C3
St Sl1tomond 11B 84
§tember•er 268 F3
Syncline 296 <:4

414
GAZETTEER
Syunik 277 C5 C6
s.•""- 21
15
�
Szarva• 265 G3
s,.ro21
15
05
Szeci 26
6
F3
s,.
..
1onc 2156 f4
SMkaUrd263C3
�r263C2
Sn
n
tver265E4
Surelmt 265 G4
Szerencs2156F1
SzlivOl
lY
26S G3
Sz616h•CY2156F1
SitKore1zt265G3
Sit Tamts 26S F2
T-01001 281 04
T'Gallant 361 F5
Tabatau. Dom du 141 83
Tabetlhon, en 67 82
Tablas Cre
e
k320Bl
Tabor 287 05
Tlehala6SF2
Tacna 330 C4
Tacoronte-Acente10 191 F2
Tacui1 339 &4
Tait Stre
e
t307E4
Tahb1lk 359 84
Tadle aux Loups Dom de la
121 C5
Taille P1eds 61 F4
Ta.in l'Hermltap 129 02
133 C4
Tatrw Ko-Gen Winery 386 C5
Tairove 277 A2
Taissy 83A4
Takahata Winery 386 CS
Takatuko, Dom 386 AS
Takeda 386 C5
Taldzawa 386 A5
Talbott Vineyards 317 F4
Talent• 179 04
Tahjanc1ch 3'47 C2
Talley Vineyards 320 D2
Ttliya 263 A5 265 E2
Talmettes, les 63 82
Taltarnl 359 B2
Taman Peninsula 277 83
Tamar R1dp 36
6
D2 E2
Tamar Valley 366 E2
Tamarack 30
0
A6 85
Tamb& Wine 386 C4
Tamboerskloof 383 E3
Tamburla1ne 365 D5
Tam1sot 66 CS
Tandt1 330 E5
Tan1 Ting 388 A4
Tanaant 320 C2
Tannacker 2"1S 83
Tannenber& 260 E4
Tantalus Vineyards 292 FS
Tanunda, Ch 351 C4
Tapada do Chaves 219 C5
Tapada. A 192 G�
Tapanappe 368 C4
Tap1z 340 C2
Taqul•re. la 131 84
Taranto 182 86
Tarapad 334 04
Tarara 323 C6
Tareal 285 G3
Tarc111, de 166 E4
Tard1au Lau.-.nt 136 E6
Tarp. Ch do 119 F5
Tlrnave 273 C3
Tarrqona 188 05 201 F2
Tarru Vineyard• 376 CS
Tarrawarra 363 C4
Tarrlnit:on Eatate 369 01
Tar1u1 196 83
Tart.Closde85F86!IC1
Tartaru 131 A4
Tartocn1n 252 �
Tarutyna 277 A1
Taaca d'Almerlta 184 F4
Tueanta 186 A6
Tata 2113 1!13
Tatarbunary 277 A2
Tatlar 31
1
5C5
Tatachlar 280 Fl
Tatala 281 A3
Taubanbarc 237 F3
Taubenhau1 233 E6
Taupa, la 115 E4
Taup1ne, la 81 E3
Tauru1 112 1!13 183 A6
T1ur1a 277 A2
Taurino 182 ee
rautave1 14& D3
Tauxi..
..
.
13 C4
Tavan ne1, Clot de 69 F4
Tav 1t
t
na1,lea02C101
Tavare1 de Pi ne 217 86
T1vel l3e G8
Tavera •17 Al
Tawa 20IF6
T•vora -Varo.. 208 86
TavL.ah �77 Cb
TawN Vlf'lyardl NJ F-1
T.,1oroJa:lE�
T1>thai 277 ca
Tblhnno 771
1
E4
Ta Awa389C4
Ta Awanp 3119 C6
To Kalranp 370 C6
Te Mata 389 C6
ToWhareRa373C2
Tech, Cloa da la 317 111
Teho 340 F2 F3
TOJO 208 � 215 C5
Tek1rdq 28S F3
Telav1 277 CS 279 E3
T1lavt Wine Cellar 279 E4
T1ldesch1 307 C4
Teldeschl Vineyard 307 C4
Toletka 267 ES
Tolada/Orco 279 E4
Tel!ani 279 E1
Tallant Valley 279 E3 E4
Tem•res. I.a 67 Cl
Temecula 326 82
Templer, Dom 148 04
Tempus A.Iba 340 83
Tempus Two 365 05
Temrluk 2n 83
Ten Minutes by Tractor
361 F5
TeneNfe 191 F2
Tennessee 290 C4
Tenterden 249 G5
Tenuta Anaor1s 1n 04
Tenuta 8arone la Lum1a
184 G4
Tenuta dalle Terre Nere
185 "4
Tenuta di 81serno 175 A5
Tenuta d1 Fesslna 185 A6
Tenuta d1 Sesta 179 DS
Tenuta d1 Tr1noro181 E3
TenuQ. Guadoal Tuso 175 B4
T-rbarc 287 F4 FS
Terarno 173 E5
Terc1c 171 06
Torek Valley 277 B5
Torez1a 265 G3
Torhnlfiam 249 G5
Terlo 163 E2
Ternay 116 C5
Tem1 173 E4181ES
Terolde10 Rotallano 166 C2
TorraAlta188OS200G5
Terra d'Alter 21� C6
Terra d 'Oro 318 85
Terra de L'<>n 188 C3
Tarra Sancta. 375 05
TarTa Tangra T/4 E4
Terra Valentine 311 C2
Terrab1anc:a 1n F4
Terrace Edp 371 F2
Terracura 379 Fl F2
Terramater 334 C4
Tar
r
anoble 336 E3
Terras da AkM1a 209 F5
Terras da Betra 208 B5 C6
Terra.a de Clater 208 85
Tarra do Avd 221 Al
Terraa do Dlo 208 B6
Terru Gaud• 193 E4
Terra Madeu..nsas 208 E3
Terrassn de Gabrtelle. kH
141 84
Tarrun1, Clos 202 C4
TerratJCo d1 81bbona 173 82
175 A4 '°'5
Terruu de Los Andes
340 C2
Terre a Tar.-. 366 C4
Terre d.. Principe 182 A2 82
Terre di Coaenza 192 C4 04
Terre lnconnue, Dom 143 01
Terre Joie 288 G4
Terre M•..re. Dom de 142 E4
Terre Rouaa 318 B5
Terre V1e11la, Ch 113 E6
Tarrebruna, Dom de 148 F6
Terredora di Paola 183 A6
Tarrerazo, el 188 E5
Terre• BlanchH, Dom
14ll A4
Terres EllanchH, le1,
Meur1ault E1
1
Fl
Ter ,.
.
, Blanches, lei,
Nu/U- St �• 114f2F3
Ter,.
.
sdeNoll13F4
TerNI Falm.t, 0om de1
141 1!14
Torrolr al Limit 202 C5
Terror Creak 3211 A4
Toao la Monja 111
11
F2
Te11on, I• 81 F1
Tutalonp 3711 1!2
..
.
..taroau 317 C3
Teto. Dom 3811 C4
T.,. du Cloo li9F5
Ut1•re. la llO G2
retovo 2111 G5
Tatr1mythos 213 E3
Tottl 1fl1 C3
Taudo di Mazzo 116 AIS
Te11re11bur1 :24& 82
reuren1, IH 02 C4 04
Texa1 2SK>Cl
Texa1 Davia Mountain•
Takara 383 03
326 C4
Tokat 286 F5
Texu Hilfi Plain• 326 B6
TOky6 3811 C6
Texu Hiii Country 32e C6
Tolcav·a 2156 04
Texoma 326 Be
Tolna 263 C2
TH Estate 320 111
Toloaa 320 C2
Thann 125 G3
ToipYddlo (Shaw + Smith)
The Bone Lln1 371 Fl
31111 F2
Thi Win• Group 303 04
Tom Eddy 311 Al
Th1l1m1 383 04
Tomu Cuisine 201 E1
TMnac 113 E5
Toml� 271 D4"
Th•nae, Ch 113 ES
To murcukbat 286 F4 F5
Th1nau 260 E3
Tonhwa 388 "e
Thaodorakakos 281 03
Topiary 383 05
Thaopatra 281 B2
Topltea 267 F5
Thermenreaion 255 G6
Topolfany 26!1 G4
Thas0. 117 B2
Topon•, IH 114 F3
Thaulet. Ch 113 E5
Toppe au Vert, la 63 06
Theulot Ju1llot, Dom 68 86
Toppe d Av11non 63 Cl!5 06
Th,zac - Perrlcard 53 F3
Toppi Marteneau, la ea C3
Thibault L11•r Belair 74 86
Toppes Coltf
ff
a;I••6306
Thlerrlin-e, la 121 85
Torb re
e
k35184
Thlllardon, Dom 74 B6
Tordasillas 196 F5
Thfra {Santor1nl) 281 E4
Toren, de 383 El
Thirsty Owl 325 85
Torcoano 173 D5 181 E5
Thirteenth Street 293 F4
To rciano Rosso R1set"Va
Thirty Bench 293 F3
173D4181E5E6
Th1va 281 C3
Torh Mor 297 D3
Th1v1n, Ch 74 F3
Torlesse 3TI F2
Thomas Foprty 317 81
Tormaresca (Ant1non)
Thomas Gaorp 307 04 06
182 84 86
Thomas Volney Munson
Toro 188 D3 196 F3
Memortal Vineyard 326 86 Torracc1a del P1antav1gna
Thomas Wines 365 C4
158 G3
Thompson Estate 349 ES
Tarras et les Garennes
Thompson Valley 292 CS
133C5C6
Thomson, Dom 375 C5
Torre de Ofta 100 F6 G8
Thorey, aux 64 F6
Torrem1lanos 195 C4
Thorn Clarke 362 04
TorreOn de Paredes 334 C6
Thorne & Oau1hters 384 ES
Torres Aleare y Familia
Thomhaven 292 F5
327 �
Thou, Ck>s 116 Gl
Tor
ra
Vodra
a
208�216B4
Thou, Ch le 141 BS
TorrT1ento 182 84
Thouarce 116 B4 118 E4
Torn1hone 163 C2
Thousand Candles 383 DS
Torro1a de! Prlorat 202 C4
Thrace 285 F3
Torrox 205 E6
Thracian Lowlands 274 E3 F2 Torz1 Matthews 351 C6
Threo Choirs 249 F3
35203
Three Palms Vineyard 311 83 Tour 8011'9, Ch 141 Cl
Thre
e
Rivers Winery 300 84
Tour de Grangemont, la
Thunerse
e
251 83
113 E6
Thunprshe1m 247 C3
Tour des Gendres. Ch 113 E6
Thurpu 251 A6
Tour du Bon, Dom de la
Thurnerber& 2S9 C1 D1
148 D4
Thurston Wolfe 298 FS
Tour du Ferre, la 117 F3
Thurz6 266 G3
Tour du Pm Ftgeac, la 111 86
Thym1opoulos 281 81
109 ES
Tlaco�219ES
Tour Malas. la 281 C3
Tianfu. Ch 390 C4
Tour V1ellle, Dom la 145 F6
T1an11n 388 AS
Tourettes (Verget du Sud),
T1anaal 38
8
A4
Ch des 135 E5
T1baan1 279 Fl
Tournant de Pouilly 70 C4
T1efenbrunner 167 E5
Tournalla, Dom de la 161 D6
T1efental 2sg C3 C4
Tourrll, Ch 141 C3
T1orhoek 379 D2
Tours - sur Marne 83 D5
Tierra del Vino de Zamora
Tours, Ch dea 137 E4
1!18Cl!
Touau.lntl, las 62 C6
Tiara 3515 C4
Tower Estate 366 D6
Tiezzl 17g 85
Traban 227 C5 233 D5 06
Tiliat 260 G4
Traben Trarbach 233 06
T1kl 371 F2
Tracy. Ch de 123 C4
Tlkvaa 267 G6
Trad1cron 205 D6
T1lcara 330 04 D6
Tratrord do 383 F3
T111a 288 E2
Tr1il11da Vineyard 314 04
T11lata, 1111 eD F6
Traiaon 234 F3 235 F5
T11tr1dp 2411 F3
Tra!Mntal 255 G5
Tim "dame 353 C2
Trel1klrchon 255 C5
Tim Gramp 353 E2
Tralamauer 265 84
Tim Smith 351 B4
Tranche 30
0
B5
Tin Shad 351 C4
Tran1llvanlan Plateau
T1naqualc Vineyard 320 E3
273 El3 C3
T1nhorn c..
.
ek282G6
Trapadl1, Com du 137 B5
Tlnlln1 366 D6
Tropan 271 B1
Tlntllla del MollM 112 A3
Tropazlo 340 C2
Tlntllla E1tate 386 C4
Trapleha 340 B3
Tlranl 287 G5
Trarbech 227 C5 233 E8
Tlraspol 277 A2
TrU -01- Monta1 208 A6 A6
T1recul la Gr1v1•re. Ch 113 E6 Tra1lularra 330 E4
T1r9pnd, Ch de 113 E6
Trumontano 208 A5
Tlrohana E1tate 370 86
Trauntal 2515 E8
Tloa2157 ES
Travacllnl 16!1 F3
Tlahbl 297 E6
Travere de chez Edouard, le&
Tlaaot, Dom A&. M 151 D5
llOD2
Tlsaot. Dom Jean· Lou\1
Tra..,.
.
do Marlnot, loa llO 02
151 D5
Travoroa 332 G3
Titus 313 F5
Travar9'a, Dom la 142 D3
Tix, Dom du 13e C4
Travlcnoll 177 118
Tizon 206 B4 86
T,.
.
Stello 11
11
D2
Tone, Dom do 147 86
Treana 320A2
Tobon Jamat 320 83
T,.
.
bbtano d'Abruzzo
Tahu 374 F4
173F4F5Ge112A2
To1ai6rea, Cloe d•1 81 F3
Tre
e
utacnl11606
Tot16're1, I•• 01 E3 Fa
Tre
eton
349 1!5
TOk293B3
Trefethen �amlly 31
1
E&
Tok&ehl Wine 38
8
AO
Trel10 161 E2
T� Klkalat 21
1
6G3
Treiaz' 111 11&
To"-! Nob1ila 2l
lli
F3
Treloar, Dom 14'6 E4
T�. Hufl
ll
Cl
l'
Y263A5
Tremblotl, 181 80 G3
280G4
Trenn1n12&e 04
Tokl
ll
. lllovak1a2118Gl5
Trent.due 307 CIS
Toltar Eatato 3153 04
Trent1no 1C515 D2
T,.
.
nto185Cl!11111C6
Tr9pall 83 C5
Treppcheri, 8ernka1m1
233 C2
T,.
.
ppc:hen. PJe1port
231D3�
Treroa• 1ao Bii
T..
.
aGirard1111C1
Trea Saborea 314 E4
TreulllH, IH 67 82
TreuK, IH fJ6 F3
T"'vallon, Dom de 146 A3
Trevelln 330 F4
Trezln, lo 80 F4
Tri Morava 2e7 F6
Trlantaf'yllopoulo1 281 06
Trlboulay, Do m J-� 146 D3
Tr1bour1 84 F6
Trle6 193 �
TrlennH, Dom de 147 Cl
Tr1er227 03
Trlfolori 1111 D2 D3
Trtgnon. Ch du 137 C5
Tr1cuedlna, Clos 115 C4
Trtllol. Ch 141 F2
Trlnchero Family Estates
313 E4
TrlnlH Estate 307 D5
Trrnltlls, Dom des 142 E2
Trinity Htll 369 C4
Trlnquevedol, Ch do 136 G6
Trio Infernal 202 C6
Tr1poh 283 F3
Tr1saetum 297 C3
Trlttanhe1m 231 G2
Tr1us 293 FS
Trlvento 340 83
Trnava 266 G4
Troasmes 79 D2
Troia Follots 81 E6
Tro
o
n29S G2
Trotel11otte, Cloa 116 C4
Trottacker 127 C5
Trotzenbers 226 F3
Troup1a 283 F3
Truchani Vineyards 309 05
311 F5
Trut!l•re. Com la 142 C5
Trufl
l
•re,la60F4
Trufl
l
eHill347F2
Tru m267 C4
Trump 323 G4
Ts,Ch386C5
Tsantah 281 Al A5 83 B4
Tsarev Brod 274 05
Tscharke 361 84
Tselepos 283 F3
Tselepos/Canava Chryssou
281 E5
Tslllan Cellars 296 AS
Tsmandall 2n CS 279 Dl
T11urupynsk 277 A2
Tsuno Wine 386 D3
Tua Rita 175 ES
Tualatin 297 83
Tuck 's Ridge 361 F5
Tudal 313 E4
Tudela 197 D5
Tudela d1 Duero 196 C1
Tu1larle, Ch de la 134 E6
Tularosa Winery 326 84
Tulbqh 379 F2
Tullp 287 D5
Tulloch Wme1 366 04
Tuloeay 311 Fii
Tulum 340 D5
Tumbarumba 344 FIS
Tumbaya330 �
Tunlbara 244 E3
Tunuy•n 340 E2
Tuparl 374 F3
Tupunpto 340 D2
Turaaan 286 G6
Turekhelm 125 E4 127 B1
Turaovlahte 274 �
Turkey Flat 351 C4
Turley, Ca/Jfornia
Shenandoah Vali.y 318 B6
Turley. Paso Robt.• 320 82
Turlay, St He/ona 313 E3
Turmbarc 237 E2
Turnbull 314 F4
Turner 280 G3
Turner Paceot 142 E2 F2
Turner'• Crot1ln1 369 83
Turqua. la 131 B4
Tuv1laln1, IH 82 C3 D3
Tuyaux, aux 64 Ge
Tvlah1 277 C5
Twenty Milal!laneh 293 G4
Two Hando 351 C3 C4
Two Paddock& 375 E5
Two Rlvera, Auttra/IG 3155 1!14
Two River•. New Zealattd
373 C3
TWO Sl1ter1 293 F6
Twomey, Ngpa Va/19y31182
Two�. Nor� SOnomo
307�05
T1rretr1 386 04
Tzort Vlnayardt 217 F4 F6
Obilberl 2211 Gl
Uby, Com 115 E2
Uccelllera 179 05
Uchlzy ll9 811
Uclet 188 E4
Uelverahe1m 238 E4 F4
Ucartecho 340 C2 Cl!
Uklah 304 D3
Ukralna IUkralne) 277 A3
Ullum 34006
Ulyaaoo 314 G4
Umaml 28!1 <io4
Umamu 349 Fe
Umpqua Valley 295 F2
UmrlH 280 F3
Umurbey 285 F3
Un Jour, Clo1 d' 116 C4
Undurrap 334 C4
Un1eheuer 242 E2
uncarberc 260 E4
Uncaborg 233 E5 E6
Unptaon 241 B4 242 B2
Unl1on 369 C4
Unterber1 229 82
Unterland 251 A4
Unterlo1ben 257 C4
Unterturkelm 24
4
06
Unt1 30784
Upland Estates 298 E4
Uppar Galilee 287 05
Upper Goulburn 34
4
G6
359 C5
Uppt1r Hemel -en Aarde
Valley 384E5
Upper Hudson 324 E4
Upper Hunter Valley 346 01
Upper Reoeh 347 C2
Uppt1r Wa1rau 373 Cl
Upaallota 340 D5
Ur'8Ya B1rsalm'5 266 F2
Urban Winery !Tony Blah)
389 85
Urballt 229 B2
U�53E4
Urgup 285 F5
Ur1um 206 06
Urla 285 F3
Urla $ara�1hk 285 F3
Urlar 370 86
Ur6m 263 B3
Uroulat, Cloa 115 Gl
Ursullnenprten 226 F4
Uruguey 330 E5
USCA 285 F3
Usher Tinkler 366 D4
Uteh 290 B2
Ut1el·Requena 188 E4
Uva Mira 383 F3
UWC Samos 281 C6
Vaeho. la 61 E6
Vacheron, Dom 123 84
Vaequeyras 135 C3 137 E4
Vad1apert1 183 84
Vad10 217 C2
Vaeni 281 A.1
Valllons 79 F3 E3
Varson· la Romaine 13S 83
Val Brun, Dom du 119 F6
Val d'l
l
rbla 173 B3 C3
Val de Loire 53 D2
Val Daile Corti 177 E4
Val d1 Cornia 173 82
175 �C5F3
ValdtSup179B5
ValduPatltAuxay aurle61C1
var Ja&n11, Ch 136 E5
Val Verd• Winery 328 C6
Val, Clos du 315 C3
Val la 193 E4
Valadao da Mel� 209 F4
Valais 263 F4 F5
Vala11 Contra! 253 F3
Vatbuena de Duero 196 C2
Valealapio 157 D5 oe
Valdad•P 1!15 D2 168 Ee
Valdamor Aa;nulde1 193 C4
Valdemar 1119 A2
Valdaorru 188 C2 192 G4
Valdapoftu 188 E3
Valdaall 192 <io4
Valdaop1no 205 D5
Valdhubar 2119 E2
Vatd1cava 179 85
Valdlpl 191
1
F2 F3
Valdlplatta 110 C4
Vald\vlHO 33'5 02
ValdubOn 1115 C4
Vale da Copueha 215 B4
ValadoSloFranc:l..o330D3
Val• do• AJ"M 209 G4
Vale dos V1nhedo1 330 De
331E8
Valolrano 161 E2
Valonc11 1'8 ES
Valenci60199 GJ
V.ientlMI. Cl-i IQ 147 ·>2
Val.et:U.Dom70Ee
Valfle.uMs, Chde 142l5
V.Ulll(;hl02r".
Volladolld 88')3 11�C
Yallana 11i6 F3
Vall• Central d• Tart1a
330C4C6
Vella d'Aoata 157 02
Valle de Calamochlta
330E4E5
Vallo de Clntl 330 C4
Val
l
o do GOI,.,
,.
..
191 F2
Valla do la Orotava191 F2
ValledaUco330E4
340E2F206E5
Valla del
l'Ae
ato184G5
Vallo Media 330 F4
Valla Ronoatl 16!1 G4
Valla S.Croto 334 Cl!
Vallo!e de l'Ardre 81 C2 Cl!
VallO.dolaMarne81Cl!
Vallt!e do Nouy, la 121 B3
va11eaduParad11 63G4
Vallee du Torpn 63 G4
Vallegrando 181 D3
Vallejo 303 C3 309 Fil
van.rots. I•• 64 F3
VallH Cruce/las 330 C5
Vallet 118 C3 117 F3
Valley of the Moon aog C2
Valley Vlaw 295 G2
Valh Ossolane 157 C4
Valh Vineyards 375 04
Valhsto 339 C5
Vallona 182 B6
Valmlllor 193 E4
Valmoias1ne, Dom de 147 82
VaJmur 79 04
Valoz1era, Jes 63 C4 04
Valpolleolla 185 E3 169 F3
Valpolieello Ciu11eo 185 E2
188 Fll
Valpallcella Valpantena
185 E2 169 F2
Val"'as 136 A3
Valaaero 199 B4
Valserrano 199 GS
Vattelhna Rosso 167 C6
165 C1
V&Jtellina Supertore 157 Ce:
165 D1
Valt1ee 266 G3
Valul Lui Traian z:n Al
V•mosujfalu 265 E4
Van der Kamp Vineyard
309 82
Van Duzer 297 E3
Van Logerenbera: 383 02
Van Loveren 379 F3
Van Rutten 318 02
VanWyk380A6
Vancouver 2a6 FS
Vancouver Island 292 CS
295 ES
Vann1•res. Ch 148 D3
Vantaco 298 C5
Vaquer. Dom 1'45 F4
Vlr265E2
Var Coteau>< du Vwdon 53 F6
Var&dn 118 B3
Varanaea. on 67 B2 C2
Varan1ff. la 67 C2
Vargas,MarquesdalQQ82B3
v•rhe&Y 2156 C8 E2 Fa
Vart•re. Ch la 118 B5
Varna 274 DS
Varna Winery 274 De
Varogna, la 133 84 C4
Varo1lles, lei 66 A1 81
Vua284 C5
Vusaltia 281 E6
VaHe Felix 349 E6
Vasslllou 281 04
VaudoVey79ElE2
Vau �raut 79 El
Vau Ll&neau 79 El
Vau Rqons 79 El E2
Vaueoupln 79 Fe
V1ucraln1. lea 84 F3
Vaud 252 D5
Vaudamanpt 83 C8
Vaud•11r 78 04
Vaud1au, Ch de 139 04
Vauf'e1e 121 B3
Vau&1raut 79 F4
Vauldenelle1, le1 87 M
Vaulorent 79 �
Vaumur1el'l8- 8u. IH 81 �6
V11.1munen1· Haute. '" 81 Ee
Vaupulont 79 D3 �
Va.ut. tn 81 E!I
Vaux D..
.
u1.1..59E2
Vaux en Beau.1oJ-11 73 04
Vauxrenard 13 86
Vavuour 374 E&
Vayotz 0- 277 C5
Vayra1 86�
llayaoet
t
a.Dorn11•06
v.,..,
,
,Comp&n�279f3f4
VUllUINfU 279 E1
\leech•• Tarre di MontM\11
177 [)4
VMnwoudel" 383 A4
VepSaur:o,QieEJ
Ve.aa bic.ll1a tQb �2

Vel'ky Krtl.4. 28e Ge.
VlefJle Jutlet"'IM, Dom d• la
Villq•. G-y-Chambertln
Vela de E•t•na
a
18! E6
137 E2
ee11
11
ce
Voloa 287 G5 Ge
Vtella. Ch do 111 F2
vi1ia.. Meurtault e1 Fee2 c1
V1l1tt•, la 181 ' 4
Vlento 290 C4
V111qo.Nuit• St�116
V..Uo PrellaV 77• 0&
v1orp. la 394Fe
F2 G2
V611nH 113 E4
V'9u1t lonnrMu, la 107 C3
\11lla1na, A et P �el A6
Volk' ll
l
l°"lc' 2t1e G3
VteuJt DonJOn, le 1351 E3
\llllaloboo 331i E1
Velk' P'avlovk:1 2tM G3
V, .ux L.uaret, Oom d\J 138 E3 V1116ny 283 03
Volk' 2ernoMky 296 E2
Vieux Pin, le 2i2 G&
\llllatte, la 120 02
V•lkoPavtovlc:ko 2ee F3
Vt euJt P'tete11, Oom du 13& E1
Vllle- Oommanp 83 A3
V•ti.
.
au 9696
Vlou• T"qroptie. Dom du
Vlll•mOJOU, Dom do 141 03
Velle, 1ur la 81 E3
1311 El
v111.,,...,,. 139 B3
Volletrl 173 F4
v..u.-Thonn 125 (03
Vllleneuv•-69 Duru 113 E4
Velm -G6tnndorf 265 85
V11na Riondo 183 E4 E5
Villeneuve, Ch de 11� E6
Volo 3e8 E2
Vl1nomoaio 177 04
Vi lleneuve, Vaud 253 E1
Velvent61 281 A.3
Vltn• au Saint, la e3 C3
Vlllerambet't·Juhen. Ch 141 Bl
Volykoc:tolynsko 277 112
Vian• aux Loupa 123 83
Vlllero 183 03
Vena Cava 327 E4
Vl1no ISlancho 611 Fl!
VllloNI Allerand i3 84
Venlnc10 da Costa Lima
Vltn• oorri•ro 511 Fe eo F1
VIiia,.
.
aux N<»Uda 83 A3
21S E5
Vltne di Zomo, lo m C4
Villara-Marmery 83 C8
Vandffnt &3 01
V11na Surrau 186 Ae
Vllleakha, Dom 136 Cl
Venezia 1915 E4
Vltno. le 320 82
Vlllotte 252 06
Venlolbo 111e F2
Vlanoou, Clos du 120 C1 C2
v1111•·Morson 73 C5 74 04
V•ntea 111 Cl5
V11n•l&ure Ch 1-47 81
Vtlhera 383 C2
V1nn1n1•n 241 C4
Vl1neral1., aux 10 83
Vin d11 Allobro1•• 63 05
Ventana 317 F4
Vlcneron. Lulu 151 E5
VinduLoe295A5
V1nt1nac, Ch 140 C6
Vl1n1rondea, aux 64 F6
Vina 11124 do Anlll•• 340 82
V1nti•qu1ro 334 05
Vl1neron1 de Buzet. 111
Vrfta Alicia 3-40 82
V1ntol1ra 334 E-4
115 02
Vlfta Casablanca 334 E3
Venus la Universal 202 04 06 Vigneron1 d11 Pfe,.,.
..
OoNeaVIi
ia
Cobol 340 C2
Ver Sacrum 340 83
73 F4
V11\a de Frann" Quinta
Veramar 323 C5
Vlan1ron1 de• Terres
327 04
Veramonte 334 03
S.C�s 69 F4
VIiia Ed•n 332 G4
Verch•ro. la 60 86
V11neron1 Landa1a
\111\a ljolbo 1119 B2
Verch•,.
.
,,les70E6
Tursan · Chal09Se 116 F1
Vona Mqol\o 197 05
Verc:hera sur-Layon , IH
V1anerons SchmOlzer &
V1t\a Mar 334 E3
116 C5
Brown 359 B6
Vl�o Metn 192 G2
Vercots, lea 83 C3
V1gne1 aux Grands, les 67 B1
v1na Nora 193 05 E5
Verda, enla67B4
V1cnes Belles 66 C4
VI�• Proareso 332 G3
Verdlcchio det Cut.em d1 Jas1
V1gnH Blanches 67 B4
Vina Robles 320 82
173 C5 C6
V1gnes Blanches, las,
Vina Salcedo 199 G6
Verdlc
c
hio di Matellca 173 06
Meursoult 61 F3
Vlf'ta Tondonia 199 F3
Verduno 163 A2
V1gnes Blanches, les,
Vlf\a Winery. la 326 B4
Varduno Pelaverga 167 F3
Poullly· Fu1sse 70 04
Vif'ta Zorzal 197 C6
Vorgelopn 383 G3
V1snes de Patad l1. lea 162 AS Vlnol<oper 2n A1
Verpleases, les 63 83
Vl1nes dos Chomps 70 04
Vinakras 268 F3
Verpnn-. I•• 63 CS
V1anes Dessus, aux 70 A2
Vinarte 273 C5 02 03
Vergenoeld 383 Fl
Vtgnes du Mayne. Dom das
Vlftu de Garza 327 E4
Verger. Clos de 61 F6 62 Cl
69 86
V1i'\u de Uceap 327 F4
Vergers. las 60 F2
ViCnMFranehes,les62C2C3 VincentCdme,Dom121B4
Varget 69 E3
V1snes Mane, lea 67 83 B4
Vincent Oureull-J anth1.., Dom
Vorglason 55 F5 69 F3 70 83 V.gnes Rondes, les 61 E3
68 A6
VeMtas. V1r1m1a 323 F3
V1anesa Mo•ngeon 60 03
Vincent Pinard, Dom 123 C3
Verheux 131 E2
V1sneux 65 G2
V1nc.1, Dom 1<45 03
Vermarain • l'Est. Bas de
V1snoble des Verdots 113 EB
Vlncon VratlCf
f.
273 C5
60 03
Vlgno1s 67 Ct
V1nden Estate 36
6
C� CS
Vermaram•1·ouest.Basde
Vtcnols aux 67 B1
V1ndlnc Montec:am;bo 184 Ge
8003
Vignola 183 C3
Vine Chtr314 F6
Verment1no d1 GalJura 188 AS V1cnots, les 62 B1
Vin.do Chadwick 334 C4
Vermont 290 A5 86
Vlgnottea. les 84 F1
Vtftedo lu Nubes 327 E4
Vernaccla di Onstano 186 C4 V110 193 04
V1ftedos de Aldeabuena
Vernac
c
1a d1 San G1m1anano
Vlh1ers 116 C4
1911 C5
173 93
Vule Metamorfos1s 273 04 05 Vin.dos da los VNtntoa 332 G4
Vemacc1a d1 Serrapetrona
\lik33406
V1ftedos Lafarga 327 E6
T7306
Vila Nova de Foz C&a
Viftedoa Puertas 335 01
Vernon 131 C3
212 F2 F3
Vineland Estates 293 G4
V0ro1J101, les 85 ES
Vllafont6 383 E3
Vlnemount R1d1• 293 G3
Verona 185 E2 169 Gl G2
VIieiio Alt&, lo 202 C4
V1nero 285 F3
\lenlnlea Ortep 192 F5
VIieiio BOJxa, la 202 C4
Vlnex Preslav 274 05
Verot
tos
, les6203
Voha lo Corti 177 C3
Vlnex Slavyantz1 274 06
Verpel6t 263 B4
VIiia B&ltlaa 340 01 02
Vineyard 29 313 F4
Ver
ro
nborg 24
4
ce
Villa Bel Air 100 05
V1nha Paz 217 B4
Ver
ro
llles ou R1chebourp,
Villa ear11
1
1011103
V1nho Verde 208 A4
lea 58E585F2
Volla Cro
o
k32081
Vln1cola del Pr1orat 202 C4
Vers Cras.70 C4
VIiia d'Est 388 C5
Vlnlcola Solar Fortun 327 05
Vers Pou1lly 70 C4
\11110 Otomanto 183 84 85
V1n1sterra 327 F4
Varseuil, •n 81 F4
Villa Oondona 142 03
V1nkara 285 F4 F5
\lertocol 33 28
8
F4
Villa Mana 373 C2
\lino Gaulle 269 E3
Vertou 118C3TI7F2
Villa Matjfde 182 82
Vino Kupljon 269 F4
Vertus 83G3
Villa Molnlk 274 F2
Vino Lokal 351 C4
Veru s269 F4
VIiia Montofloro 327 E3 E4
Vino Nobile dt Montepulctano
Vom 55 F5 8904
VIiia O.orao 215 03 04
173 C3
Verzella 165 "6
Villa RUHIZ 171 06
Vino Noceto 318 BS
\lerzenoy 83 B5
Villa 5an Juliette 320 A1 A2
V1nolus 285 F6
Verzy 8386
Villa Soeo 340 E1
Vinos de la Luz Argentina
\l"'ole 277 A2
VillaVin•a 273 83
340 84
Vesper 326 82
Volle Yombol 274 E4
Vinos do Madrid 188 03
Vesttn1 Campacnano 182 A2
VIiia Yu1tlna 274 E3
Vino• d• Potrero 340 01
v..uv1o18282
Volle, lo 183 02
Vinos d•I Sot 327 F4
Vetroz253F3
V11tabuena de Al&va 199 Al F& Vinos PIJoan 327 E4
\letus 196 F2
V1llacNee1 1SiH5 C2
Vinos P1ftol 200 G6
V""
"Y
253E1
Villafranca del Btel"Zo 192 F4
Vino• Sanz 198 G6
Via Romana 1112 F2
Villafranca del Peo-"5
Vinos Shlmul 327 04
Vta Vlnera Kerabunar
168 05 195F4
Vinos Xecue 327 F4
274 E2 E3
V1lla1e Bu, le 81 Al
Vmroc 311 06
v1aVlt•eot•273csca
Vlll- Hout, la e1 A1
Vint Auvl&ue 70 Ca
ViaWines336£2
\/•Ila&•. au 81 F1 F2 F4 G1
Vin• d'Amour, Clo• da 'M6 03
Vlodor 311 83
VIII-. lo, Beauno 83 A1 84
Vlneobres 136 83
\loall""9. It 131 A6
\/l
l
lqo, lo, Chambolle Mu•lgny Vlnyti• d'en Gabrl•I 202 E3
V111
11
H309E3F3
85E6F5
V1nyN Oom6nach 202 E4 E&
Vlcalrlu1238384
VIII-, lo, Fl•ln 61 81
Ylnzel 252E4
Vleomt6 d'Aumelu 53 G4
Vlllace, I•, Mareannay
VlnzollH16F&ellGl470E&
\/1ct.or, Ch 289F4
er 84C4
\llolotto, lo 347 G3 Gl4
\llctoMo 330 £5
Vfllqe, Je, Meuraault 80 02
V1olettes, IH 86 F3 G3
Victory P.o lnt 349 F6
VIII.,., le, Morey-St-Denis
Vlonne, la e7 81
Vldol 381
1
C4
116C1 C2
Vlpava 1894 288 F3
v1� eou..
..
eoG3
VIII-, lo, Nu.a -St-Georg"'
Vlpavska Dohna 281 04 E2
V1d11ue1ra '219 F4
85 E& F4G4
171 E8
V1dtn 274 C1
Vollap. lo, Puhgny
V1ranel, Ch 1-41 A4
Vie d1 Romans 171 E4
Mont:roc,,.t SO G3
Vlr655E569C5
V1edma '330 F4 F6
Vollqo la, Santonqy 511 E3
V1Nt, Dom 136 83
v1reutt• OeHout, M 81 E1
Want1ma E1tate 361 Oo4
Vlreu•. let 81 E1
WOf'den Abl>9y 2..
.
F4
..,,,.
..
.
Joly,Dom14203
WarTabtfla 3&9 A6
v11'1
1
n Hiii• 31
1
9ca
warr.,
,.
te31
1
3oe
V1rt1n1a 290 C8
Warramunde 31
1
3Cl
VlrsJnl• Wlneworl<• 323 G4
Warrenman1 3!8 92
v1r1au la-Girand 1e2 114
Warwick 313 C3
Virondot, on ell Fe
Wa1hlnlton 2l
lO
A1
V1oan131i113
W&1Mro
o
237 E2 F2
v1-.e 1e3 E3
Water Wheel 31
11
83
VIHU 20I BB 217 IM
Wotorbrook 30
0
83
Vlaperurmlnen 2&3 Fe
Wotorlord 383 E3 F3
Vlctoux. Dom du 73 F4
Wotorl<loof 383 G3
Vilt& Floro• 340 F1 F2
Wotef'•hod 3411 Fe
V11t& Verde 317 E&
Watorton 3119 02
Vl1talba(Car\OI Putenta)
Wattle Crook 307 114
340 82
Wattle c.- Vineyard 304 F3
VltlCCIO 177 04
Wotzot1dorf2e5 A4
V1tk1n 287 E4
Wecheelbof'I 2511 113
\lltryot 81 E4
Wechselberc•r Spl•1•I
Vlttoroo 184 G4 G5
281
1
"6
Vltuober1 237 F4 G4
Wod1otoll 319 C4 393 C3
Vlu Manent 336 01
Woldon 2e& Ce
Vtuva Gom.1 216 03
Wollbora 242 82
Vlv'° 32e A4
Woinort 340 82 b3
VML 307 01
Wolnleblr&o. Im 257 C5
Vooltllnoholfon 129 E4
2111 E1
Vo11lborl 217 113 84
Wetnll
lJ
t Abraham 1117 05
VoplHna. 8urgenland
Wolnhelm 238 F2
2eO G3
Wotnol1helm 238 E3
Vo1olMn1, Rhelngau 2311 Fe
wo1n1bor& 244 c6
Vo1olHnS. Saar 2211 G3
Woln1hotm 2311 E4 El
Vogelzan1 Vineyard 321 88
Woln•todt 244 C8
\loglotzl• 281 A3
We1nvlertef 256 G5
Volllenot OeHCMJI eo G2
WelnzlorltJors 2111 02
VolllenoU Oeasu1, IH 60 G2
We11enhelm 241 84
VolpreuK 83 �
We1Hn1teln 233 G3
Vo1tta 60 G4
Wel1lnpr'1 296 G3
\lolkoch 247 C4
We11Hnklrch1n 25
5
83
Volker EIMle 311 C5
267 81 82
Volney 55 05 e1 F5
Woltenbor1257 82
Volvorot& 196 F2
W_.. 259 C3
\lun Siebenthal 334 C2
Welcombe H1ll1 2•9 F3
Von Struser 311 81 82
WelgemHnd 383 83
Vondehng 379 F2
Wolllnston. Caltfornla 309 82
Voor Paardebel"I 379 F2
WeU!nston, New Zealand
381 05
397 C5
Vorbourg 126 83
WeUmltOfl , South Afrtea
\lorderbera 280 E3
3711 F2 383A5
Vorderselber 267 B1
Wendouree 353 C2
Voqros 79 F4
Wento 317 A3
Vosne Romane. 55 CS 65 F2 w..t Cope -347 G4
Voane, en 66 86
West Vir11n1a 290 85
Vouaeot 55 C8 85 G4
Western Ranae 347 C2
Vougeot . Clos de 66 F3
Westhalten 128 F3 126 83
Voulte·Gupareta, Ch la
Westhofen 238 F3 239 B4
141 03
Westover 317 A2
Voun1 284 C6
WNtrey 2117 03
Voum Panay1a Ampellt1s
Weststet•rmark 255 Ge
284 83
Wesy Elks 321
1
A4
Vourvoukeh1 281 A4
Wotsho� do 379 F3
Vouvray 117 81 121 83
Wettolshe1m 125 E4 126 88
Voyaa•r Estate 349 G5
Whaler 304 E4
Voznesensk 2n A2
Wh11thnt Eqle 369 84
Vr6ble 266 G4
White Heron 298 86
Vron1• 267 F5
White H1ll1 366 E2
Vro- 274 02
White Salmen 295 C4
Vreda en Lust 383 C4
Whitehall Lana 313 G6
Vrodondol 379 C2
314 03 E3
VMesenhof 383 E3
Whitehaven 373 82
Vr1gny 83 A2
Whitewater Hill 326 A4
Vrlnlot1s 281 C3
Whltfteld 34
4
F5
Vr1s, les 63 C6
Whotlonda 359 Be
Vulkanland Ste1ermark
Wickens, J C 381 04
255 G6
Wicker 236 04
Vychodoslovens� 286 G6
Wockhom 249G3
Wlebolabora 125 C4
Wochou 25
5
F525782259El Wildon25901
Wachenhelm 241 84
w..1and25e C4
Wachanhe1m an der
W1en 25S C5
Wemstruse 242 02
Wiener Gem1schter 25S G6
Wochtberg 259 01
Wlosbodon 223 E2 E3
Wod1h. Ch 286 ES
2380304
w.,.. wog
ga
344 E5
WiHenbronn 247 CS
Wagner 325 C5
Wlgnolls 347 G4
Wqram 255 G6
Wiid Duck Cl'WOk 359 84
Wohlhelm 238 F2
Wold Earth 375 05
Wohluke Slope 21
15
8529805 WiidGOOM292G5
Wolheko Island 387 A5 A6
Wild Ho1 \lonoyards 307 02
1 Walhopal Valley 373 Cl
Wiid HorH 320 82
Walm•• Plaln1 387 C4
Wlldohur1t 379 E2
Wolper\387 04 3n F2
Wtldekran1 3&4 ES
Walper• Hiii• 3n F2 F3
W1ldhurst 304 E5
Walpara Sprlnp 3n F2 F3
WoldMU 237 F4
Wa1rau River 373 12
Wlllakenzle Estate 297 C3
Wolrou Vol loy 373 !13
Wlllomotto \/alloy 295 02
Walkenberg 237 F4
Wlllamette Valley V1neyard1
Walker Boy 3711 G3 384 Fl
297 E3
Wallo Walla 2116 ce 2119 F4
Willcox 326 84
300 86
WlllHPIO 3411 E5
Wallo Woll• Volley 21
1
5 Be C8 William Chrf1 Vlnayard1
299 G3 300 84
32e ce
Walla Walla Vintner• 300 B6
William Downie 359 015
Wollchrro 3411 F&
Wiiiiam F•vro 334 C4
WallhauHn 234 !3
W11Uam Harrf1on 314 04
Woll•. Tho 300 B4
Wiiiiam• I. Humbert 205 E6
Wolluf232 F4 G4
Wllllama S.lytim 307 05
Wal1helm 241 04
Wiiiow Srldl• 347 E2
Walter Flllputtl 171 C4
Wiiiow Cro
o
kVineyard31
11
FIS
Waneka 375 Bl
Wlllowt, The 351 85
Wonprotto 344 Fe 351
1
A6
W11!1 Domain 349 015
Will..,.. 1003ME4Ee
Wllrldp w1,,.,
,,
2H 03
Wll"°" Cl'WOk 321
1
•2
Wll1on Vineyard 319 Cl
Wilson Vin.;.rcl
a
, The31i302
W11t1npn 2211 C3
Wllyabrup 348 Ee
Wlndance 348 De
Windon 211 Ce
WlndHti.im 234 E3
Wlnd1buhl. Cloo 127 154
Wlndwolkor 318 IS&
Wine Art £1tate 281 A-4
W•ne Hiii Ranch 314 Fe
Wine Houu Hunter Valley
391 0&
Wlneck-Schlo11bof'1 127 B2
Winery Lol<o Vineyard
3011 04 311 G&
WinHbyKT31130102
W•n1 Con� 311 E4
Wlnlverla 279 E3
Wlnkot 239 02 Ge
Wlnklorbora 248 02
w1nn1n11n 227 Ae
Wlnowa E1tate 349 06
W1nt1r'1 Orr� 384 04
W1nterthu,..r Weinland
251 A4
W1ntzenh1im 125 E4 128 86
Wlnnnbl
l
r& 125 C-4
Wlrra W1rra 365 06
Wiacon1ln 290 84
WIH 349 C5
Wl..
..
brunnen 237 F1
Willett Wines 249 F6
W11ton 249 �
Wither Hills 373 C3
wo1ra1us 351 85
WO!lfor 324 F2 F3
Wolfsbach 280 F2
Wolf•bor1 259 F3
Wolftvabon 259 88
Wolkorsdorf255 116
Wolxhetm 126 A5
WoodbridSe by Mondav•
318 02
Woodend 34
4
G4
Woodland• 349 E5
Woodside 317 Bl
Woodstock 35
5
05
Woodward Canyon 30
0
83
Woody Nook 349 E5
Woo1nc Tre
e
376 05
WorcNter 379 F3
Worms238G423905241A6
WrattonbuUy 34
4
F3
Wroxeter 249 E3
Wuenholm 125 F3
Wulfen 237 F3
Wurttemberc 223 F3 G3
Wurttembertitch Unterland
244 C6
Wurzburc 223 E3 247 C4
Wurzprten , S.mka•tel
233C1C2CS05
Wurzprten . Rh91ngau
239 E5 E6
Wykon 249 F5
Wylye Volley 249 G3
Wyndham Estate 365 86
Wynns Coonawarra Estate
357 86
Wynns V&A Lane 357 C5
Wyom1nc 290 92
Xobrops 347 G4
J<anodu341lF5
X1XiaKine390C3
XiaLu388A.4
X1aohn1 388 84
Xln J1an1 38
8
A3
X1nJ1an1388 A3
XoH LOIS Sebio 192 Gl
Yabby Loko 361 E6
Yol<omo 21
15
8429803
Yakima \lollay 295 C4
298 E5 G2
Yaldara Estate (McGu1pn)
351 02
Yolhn&<lP 349 06
Yalovo Winwy 274 04
Yolumbo 351 C5 352 04
Yalumb& the Menzies 367 06
Yamanashi 31
1
784
Yamanuh1 Win• 387 84
Yamanbev's 274 F4
Yamazaki 38
8
A5
Yombol (lomboll 274 E4
Yamhill Vollay 297 02
Yanprra 365 C6
Yardstick 31
13
E2
Yorro Glon 344 G4 359 C4
Yarra Junction 363 Ee
Varro Valley 34
4
G4 358 C5
Var
ro
Y.,.,n1 3113 05
Yarrabank 363 C4
YHs 34
4
E6
Yatlr 287 Fl
Ycoden- Daute· l•ore. 191 F2
UZITTllft 4'1
1
YHla- 374 18
vori.- 2..
.
�
Y..la 1118E4
Yodt llllpi..
.
281
1
Q3
Ye11k 277 AJ
Ye-an 277 Ce
Verine St&tlon 3e3 C4
Yenn.,
,.,.
1ae3C4
Yevpotorlya 277 IS2
Yln<huen 3M ISi ll
lO
114
Yokohama 3f9e, C6
Y,,
,,
_Hiii383F2
York C,_k 311 C2
York Mount&ln 320 91
Yoricvllla Cellaro 304 F3
Yorkville Hlthlond• 304 F3
Youn1 344 EI!
Younp 318 111
Yountville 311 E4 314 Ee '115 111
Yllo• 1119 Fe
Yunnan 38
8
C4
Yunnan Red 38
8
C4
Yunnan Sun Sp+r1t 381 C4
Yuquan, Ch 390 C3
Yvl1no, Clot d' 113 E5
Yvorna 263 F1 F2
Zaca M11a 321 B&
Zacharlaa 283 Fe
Zafolrokls 281 83
Zolrorano Etna• 181 Ce
Zacorj1 MedlmurJe 2e7 E4
ZqretJ 2e7 E4
Zqrou• 274 E3
z•klnthoo (Zonto) 281 02
Zolo 263 C2
Zalakaroa 263 C2
tolholtlee 268 E2
Zamoro 188 02 196 F1
Zempel, El 340 02
Zanut 171 C5
Zanzl 267 B2
Zaranda 336 G6
Zarate 1�3 C4
Zarephath 347 F4
Zaum 257 CS 259 F1
�onte 31 7C2
Z0314E5
Zopono, Ch 279 F4
Zehnmoraen 2"40 05
Zelano• 274 05
Zollenbora 126 04
Zellerwe& am Schwarzen
Herrcott 239 C2
Zema Est&to 367 C5
Zen1 167 G4
Zeppwinlert 233 C8
Zewnwacht 383 01
Zhlhu1 Yuan1h1 390 B3
Zhong Foo, Ch 38
8
A3
Zoersdorf255 84
Zina Hyde Cunninlham
304 E3
Zinnkoepfle 126 A3
Z11tel 259 E2
Z1starsdorf 255 85
Zltso 281 82
Zlat&n Otok 2n 04
Zlate Moravce 26
6
G4
Zlaten Rozhen 274 F2
Zlato Gr!<! 269 F1 G1
ZnoJemsko 266 F2 G2
ZnO]mo 268 G3
Z6b1n1 255 84 259 A4
Zo1no1 28l 82
Zolt
tu
rm23306
Zolt6n DemetOf' 285 G4
Zonda 340 05
Zoravtlat 383 04
Zornbor& 258 05
Zorzal 340 01
Zotzenbera: 125 84
Zsad6n)'1 295 04
Zuan1 171 05
Zueeardl 340 F1
Zuekerber& 240 F5 F6
Zu1 211 84
ZOrcher Walnland 261 A.4
Zunch 251 A4
Zuroehsff 251 A4 A6
ZweMthaler 257 A2

416
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
We would like to thank the following for their
invaluable spec1ahst expertise, and particularly
apologize to those we may have overlooked.
Introduction History Dr Patrick E McGovern;
Key Fa cts Climate Data, Te mperature and
Sunlight, Water into Wine, The Changing
Climate Dr Gregory V Jones, Beneath the
Vin es Dr Rob Bramley; Professor Alex
Maltman; Pedro Parra; Professor Robert
White, How Wi ne 1s Made Matt Thomson; The
Bottom Line Ines Salp1co, Vinea Transaction;
Sarah Phillips, Liv- ex; Farr Vinters; The Wine
Society; Berry Bros & Rudd; Bruce Nemet
France Burgundy Jasper Morris MW;
Cote d'Or geology Professor Alex Maltman;
Northern Cote de Nuits map Fran�oise
Van nier, Emmanuel Chevigny, ad ama;
Beau1olais Jasper Morris MW, Jean
Bourjade, Inter Beaujolai s ; Champagne
Peter Liem; Bordeaux James Lawther MW;
Alessandro Masnaghett1; Cornelis van
Leeuwen; Southwest Fr ance Pau l Strang,
Loire Jim Budd; Alsace Fo ulques Aulagnon,
CIVA; Rhone John L1vingstone-Learmonth;
Michel Blanc; Languedoc-Rouss1llon
Matthew Stubbs MW; Provence Eli zabeth
Gabay MW; Corsica Marcel Orford -Williams;
Jura, Savoie, Bugey Wink Lorch
Italy Walter Speller; Alto P1emonte
Cristiano Garella; Etna Patricia Tot h,
Sardinia Claudio Olla
Spain Fe rran Centelles; Andalucfa Jesus
Barquin, Eduardo Ojeda; Clim ate maps
Roberto Serrano- Not1voli, Santiago
Begueria, Miguel Angel Saz, Luis Alberto
Longares, Martin de Luis, University of
Zaragoza
Photocraphs
Th• publtahers would llke to acknowled.. and thank •II thli w1nerie1.
producer• •nd their acenta, as well u photosraphtC apnclea and
photo1rapher1, who have kindly 1upplled lma&e• for UH In thl1 bo
ok
2 Ch.lteau Cheval Blanc Photo Gerard Uferu, 7 photo Chris Terry,
I Wein1ut am Stein Photo Stefan Schutz, 10 Mondadorl Portfolio/Elect&/
ale& 1mq:H, 11 lmq:e9roker/Al1my Stock Photo, 131 Wlnea of Bolivia.
13r Freeprod/ 0.-.amatlme com, 13c Qu1nt1nllla/D,.
..
mat11ne com, 18
Nlnpla WlnH, 1h Domain• St Jacquea, Canada. 1eb Thierry Gauduti•re.
20 Amanda BarnH, South American Win• Gulde. 211 a r Gavin Quinney.
1av1nqulnney.com, II US Army Photo/Alamy Stock Photo, 24a All Canada
Photo1/Alamy Stock Photo 2411 Underworld/Dreamltlm. com . 261
Baroaaa Grape & Wine Aaaoclatlon. 2ar Pedro Parra y Famllla Photo Paul
Krua. M Per Karluon, BKWlne 2/Alamy Stock Photo, 211 Wlk1P4K1la Karl
Bauer/CC l!IY I 0 (http1 //creat lvecommona or1/Ucenaea/by/3.0/at/de1d
en), 27c mauo1982/iStock, 27r Whltewe,y/IStock, 2e Jean· Sernard
Nadffu/CephH. 30a Corlaon Winery; 301t RalfKal•er, lnat.q;ram.com/
w.inkalHr H Jon Wyand , �a Pablo Bluquez OomJnau•z/Getty lmacH,
111t from left . Octopu• Pubh1htn& Group :ic 2, Per Karla1on/BKWln1 2/
Alamy Stock Photo Gre1ory Dubut/IStock. Ootopu1 Publl1hln1 Group,
ww
w
v1notok.com, n Emmanuel Lattea/Alamy Stock Photo. 401b ww
w
bartaplnce.com, 40-. _;ymlnaton Family Ettatea. 4la Matt Martin, 41b
Octopu• Pubfl1h1"41 Group, 4fal NO)ldtltock/IStock, - Vaeu Vin, WW
W
ncuv1n, - >m all other• a1aco1oler/ .tock, IO Mutlmo fl
ll
lpanl/4CorMrt
1m.,.1 M e1 M Jon Wyand, U Rlcoc hetf
f
/O,.
.
amatlme.com, IT
Mak!olm Park/Alamy Stock Photo. T1 CW lmq:ee/Al&my 9tock Photo, 72
Gaelfphoto/Alamy Stock Phot� 1e Jo.r1 Lehmann/Stockfo
od
, 11 Thierry
Gaudlll..ro, 82 Victor Puptochow, 81 Photo Anaka/La CM du Vln/XTU
Arehotoctl, U WtH lyon eWlll_Lyon to Dun Kl..
..
IAlomy -
Photo 11JonWY""' M -,
,·
101 Gobot/AFP/Getty1-1 N Chitoau
Talbot H Kate W 1lll11 el :h•i.au Marquis d·Ale.,
,.
..
Phote EIOIH
V9"1
1
102 Ar-chives 81 ; -,•It' M•tropol•, Bordeaux XL I 70, 1CM 'flm
�raham/Gett)' lmqe1 10I J•r<>n1mc AlbaJAlamy �toclk Photo, 114
Jaoquet l1erpink9kl/Hem11/Alamy tock Photo 11e Per Kar oi SKWln•
Portugal Sarah Ahmed; Frederico Falciio,
IVV; Alen te10 Francisco Mateus, Maria Amelia
Vaz Da Silva, CVRA; Port and Madeira
Richard Mayson, Douro Pau l Symingto n
Germany Michael Schmidt; Vd P
England and Wale$ Step hen Skelton MW,
Margaret Rand
Switzerland Jose Vo u1llamoz; Gabriel
Tinguely; Fran�o1s Bernaschina
Austria Luzia Schram pf; Susanne Staggl,
Osterre1ch Wein Marketing
Hungary Gabriella Meszaros
Czechia Klara Kollarova
Slovakia Edita Durcova
Serbia Caroline Gilby MW
North Macedonia Ivana S1m1anovska
Albania Joni an Ko kona
Kosovo Sarn i Kryez1u
Montenegro Ve sna Maras
Bosnia & Herzegovina Zeljko Garmaz
Croatia Professor Ed i Malet1c; Professor
Ivan Pejic, Dr Goran Zdunic
Slovenia Robert Gor1ak
Romania Caroline Gilby MW
Bulgaria Caroline Gilby MW
Moldova Caroline Gilby MW
Russia Vo lodymyr Puk1sh
Ukraine Volodymyr Puk1sh
21Alamy Stock Photo: 1112Chrt1tlan GuylHoml 1/Alamy Stock Photo, 129
Elmar F>o1rnba/Zoonor/AlalTI)' Stock Photo, 121 Camillo Molronc/Homla/
Alamy Stock Photo, 1H Andy Chrl1todolo/Cophu Picture Library, 130
Phlllppo Oo&rn&ZH/AFP/Gotty lmacH. 132 Plarro Wltt/Homl1/Alamy
Stock Photo. 134 Mick PlocklCophu Picture Library, 138 o Federation
d.. Syndicate d• Producteur1 de Chlt1&uneuf-du Pipe, 1'3 Ren•
Matte1/Heml1/Alamy Stock Photo; 144 Hilke Maunder/Alamy Stock
Photo, 14e Jonph Sohm/Vl1lon1 of America/Getty lmqH, 111 Xavier
Foree Joana R.oncero/Alamy Stock Pheto, 113 Arcanaelo Plal/4Corner1
lmq:H, 111 Azlenda AcNcola Fontodl, 111 Ceretto Wlnea, 180 javarman3/
IStock, 1112 ..
.
fo to1tock/Alamy Stock Photo, 194 Con11ilano
Valdobbl&dane Pro1ec
c
o Superlo,.
.
DOCG Photo Arcangelo P1a1 , 181
1
Alberto Zanonl/Alamy Stock Photo. 170 Aztenda A1r1cola Gravner Photo
AlvlH Baraantl, 172 Markut Gann/Zoonar GmbH/Alamy Stock Photo, 174
Ornellala Photo Paolo Wood1, 178 Daniel Schoanen/Getty tm1111, 190
ShOJlth/IStock. 187 181 ace fo tostock/Alamy Stock Photo, 190 Bodo,.
.
MonJ•, 1M Noradoa/Shutteratock 118 Mick Rock/ Cephu Picture
Library: 201 •ravtintoa1blanc, 203 ConHjo Aeaulador de loa Vinos de
Jerez, 204 ... foto1tock/Alamy Stock Photo, 20• M S.emuller/O.
A&o•tlnl/Getty lm11H 207 Azore• Wine Company, 213 Symlncton Family
Eetatea, 214 01maberkut/Dream1tlm-.com, 211 Carole Anne Ferrl1/
Alamy Stock Photo, 218 Coml11lo Vltlvlnfcola Rel'onal Alentejana
(CVR/\), 220 Morton Snijdora/Getty lmap1, 22
2
Stadt Bad DOrkho1m,
224 Verband Oauttcher Prldlkatlweln&Qter (VOP), 228 R11ner Unkal/ap
foto&lock. 221 Zlllken VOP Wetnaut Foratmel1ter Geltz Z1lllken, ISO
Hana Peter Merten/Getty lm..
.
a, 212 Hol•r Klua/Kl..
.
lm..
.
a,ta
a
Verband Deutecher Prldlkattwelncuter CVOP� 237 Paarl Bucknatl/Alamy
Stock Photo, 240 Kuhllna Glllot, 141 W•lnaut Or Sundin Wolf; 241
Blldarchlv Munholm GmbH/Alamy Stock PhGto, MT UKr�IAlamy $tock
l'hoto, 248 Holen D,.on/Alamy Stock Photo. HO dvo
ov
noro/ISt ,k, HI
photo Jo•• Voulllamoz 217 �t.ran Rotter/Alamy �k Photo. Il
la
Malat at. 2Ult Lo1a1um Wine & St>a Re1orta I South Styrta &. Ka mptaf H1
(elpeij t.;
;<:
k, 214 t.·=kFood Ltd/Alam� �toek Photo IH Ne!J Wat
t10 Kbt :h:ic/IStock 212 Acr1c°'1 St1rbey, 271 Orblila Winery Phot• Reya
Armenia Dr Nelli Hovhannisyan
Azerbaijan Mirza Musayev
Georgia Tin a Kezeh ; Dr Patrick E McGovern
Greece Konstantinos Lazarakis MW
Cyprus Caroline Gilby MW
Turkey Umay <;eviker
Lebanon Michael Karam
Israel Adam Montefiore
North America USA Doug Frost MW MS;
Canada Rod Phillips; Pacific Northwest,
California, and Arizona Elaine Chukan
Brown; Ne w Yo rk Kelli White; Te xas and New
Mexico James Tidwell; Virginia Dave
Mcintyre; Mexico Carlos Borboa
South America Bolivia and Peru Gees van
Casteran; Uruguay Martin Lopez; Brazil
Eduardo Milan; Mauric io Roloff, IBRAVIN;
Chile Patr1c10 Tapia; Joaquin Almarza; Maria
Pia Merani ; Argentina Andres Rosberg;
Mendoza Edgardo Del P6polo
Australia Huon Hooke
New Zealand Sophie Parker-Thomson; New
Ze aland's grapes stat1st1cs New Zealand
Winegrowers; Marlborough soil map Richard
Hunter; Marcus Pickens
South Africa Tim James
India Reva Singh
Asia Denis Gastin
Japan Ken Ohashi; Ryoko Fujimoto
China Yo ung Shi; Fongyee Walker
Chorbac:
:iz
hlyaka1 278 aJexabelov/IStock, 278 Akhmeta Win• House Photp
Ann lmad&shvlll, 271 Ivan Nasterov/Alamy Stock Photo, 210
Tramont.ana/Shutterstock, 282 Alpha E1tate, 214 Amir Makar/Af'P/
Get
t
y lmap1, 28
8
Waahm�n State Wine C Andr.a John&on
Photovaphy 2111, Vl&noble Riviere du Chino, 211 David Bo1ly/AFP/Gotty
lmac... 284 Jani • Ml1lav1, 298 Leslie Br1enza/1Stock, 288 Ric� Ouv•l1
DanltaOel!mont/Alamy Stock Photo, 301 Wa1hin1ton State Wine O
AndrM Johnson Photography; 30I Hlrach Vtneyarc:l1, SO• B•n11pr 110
0 Robert Holmes , 313 Turley Wine Cellar•, 311 Stq'I Leap Win• Cellara,
311t &. r Te chnlcal lmacary Studloa, 311 Suhl Moorman, :112 Eric
Felnblatt. 321 Efr•1n Padro/Alamy Stock Photo . 331 lm.,.ISroker/Alamy
Stook Photo. 337 Matt Wiison, aa
a
Federico Garcia/Garcia Betancourt
341 Wlne1 of Arpntlna, 342 Robert Oatttman/Straydoa: Photoaraphy,
348& Leeuwln Estate. 348b Giibert Win•• Photo L•• GrlMth 3IO
Saroaaa Grape & Wln• A11oclatlon, Sl2 Henschke Photo Drapn
Radoc-.1 , IA Plk.. Wlne1, Polleh Hiii, Clare Valley, SA/Photo John l<ru•tr
314 Kl.)' l!lrothers. Mclaren Vale Photo Josh Sea,.
.
, $51' Kevin Judd/
Cephu, sat Vlc:tor Pup.tsohew; .180a Mount Lanai Ghiran Vlntyard&.
HOb NicholU Brown/All Salntl Eatate, 382 Global llalloon1n1 Auetralla,
at4 R l1n Lloyd/Maurit1ua 1m.,H/Ma1ter1'le AM, 370 Craa:D A&np
Vlnayarde Photo Rich !Jrtm, 371 Tlklwlne& V1nayerd1. Waipara, North
ca.nterbury, 37.4 Jim Tannock/Yealand• Eetate, $Tl Hamilton Au1Mll
Vlneyard1, 371 Old Vine Project, 380 Mick l'lock/Cophu Ploturo UbNry,
Ml V.rpnoaad LOW Wine Eatate, Jt*lenboach, South Afr i.:a, M' IOf'I•
Wine FaNTI, 31
1
)ula Vineyard• 3.. Julia Hardln1 MW HO Ja/11 M41lavt
lllunr&tlt
tn
•
L"a Aklero
on
/Mvocate 12 11a, 11 a11 "'"'"'*'"I ""· 17 a> o:eptlna bl, "
Fl.,. llo1
1
Cu,,lo 14 11t
t
•c.1..
..
17M
Jonjo ord14-17cardde 'I' 11.H...
..
.
.34-1
11
1
H4144,"4<M,4T
-
Ccwer me&e 1ourc1 ma1ummm,.,
,
uM./Shl
lt
t
er1toc.lil