Текст
                    D EC E M B E R 2022 | JAN UARY 2023

Velvet!
Glitter!
Gold!

£2 .99

Lindsay
Lohan
The interview
you’ve been
waiting for

’Tis the season to
dress like a disco
ball – here’s how
to do it in style

All buzz,
no booze

The alcohol-free
drinks that will
legit get you tipsy

Holidays
really are
coming…
…and you
will be too,
thanks to p122

(We know, we tested them)

Sexists
and their
superfans
Is the male mental health
crisis making misogyny
go mainstream?

*cough*

‘I can’t
go out ,
I’m sick’
How to cancel
plans and, you
know, not lose
all your friends



D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 2 /J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 3 Street style secrets Page 38 play 9 glow 19 style 33 move 45 buzz without booze 45 relax 55 cancel your plans 58 gift guide 61 lindsay lohan 66 the rise of the mega misogynist 76 could you put a price on starting a family? 88 the cosmo beauty awards 94 love 115 the art of a social media split 118 the last page 130 Party boots Page 104 Beauty Awards Page 94 Snacks on sticks Page 55 C O V E R P H O T O G R A P H Y: E L L E N V O N U N W E R T H STYLING: CASSIE ANDERSON Hair: DJ Quintero for Living Proof at The Wall Group. Make-up: Kristofer Buckle at Crosby Carter Management. Manicure: Elle Gerstein at Crosby Carter Management. Props: Chelsea Maruskin at Art Department. Location: Roxy Cinema New York. To get Lindsay’s look, try True Match Hyaluronic Tinted Serum, Infallible Pro-Last Waterproof Pencil Eyeliner in Black, Telescopic Original Mascara in Black, Unbelievabrow Longwear Waterproof Brow Gel and Colour Riche Reds of Worth Satin Lipstick in Lovely Red, all by L’Oréal Paris. Lindsay wears: tuxedo jacket, waistcoat and trousers, all Alexandre Vauthier; necklace, Nicola Rose; rings, Chopard and Lindsay’s own C o s m o p o l i ta n 3

The Cosmo Quiz Lindsay Lohan edition BEST ADVICE I’VE EVER BEEN GIVEN THE MOST SPONTANEOUS THING I’VE EVER DONE THE MOVIE OF MINE THAT I WISH HAD A SEQUEL MY DREAM ROLES PHOTOGRAPHY: ELLEN VON UNWERTH. FASHION: CASSIE ANDERSON. HAIR: DJ QUINTERO FOR LIVING PROOF AT THE WALL GROUP. MAKE-UP: KRISTOFER BUCKLE AT CROSBY CARTER MANAGEMENT. MANICURE: ELLE GERSTEIN AT CROSBY CARTER MANAGEMENT. PROPS: CHELSEA MARUSKIN AT ART DEPARTMENT. LOCATION: ROXY CINEMA, NEW YORK. LINDSAY WEARS: DRESS AND BOOTS, BOTH ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER; EARRINGS, CAROLINA NEVES; RING, SAUER I’M DYING TO MAKE A FILM WITH... From the editor I – like many of you, I’m sure – can’t wait for Christmas. Cosy nights down the pub, lazy duvet days, the excuse to buy something far too glam for the other 11 months of the year and, tbh, a few extra days off work. [Hi to my boss if you’re reading this. I love my job, but I also really love my sofa, okay?] But one common theme emerged when we were putting the cover for this issue together: I realised I’m not the only one who is kinda ready for a smaller, less frantic and altogether chill-er festive season than years gone by. One where quality time with my very nearest and dearest matters much more than a packed social schedule that will leave me in a hungover heap crying at the It Feels Like Christmas scene in The Muppet Christmas Carol. (p37). Loading your queue with Well, the next generation of every festive film going? We sat alcohol-free drinks aren’t just sans down with the star of Netflix’s booze, they actually promise to Falling For Christmas, the one and simulate that tipsy feeling, minus the only Lindsay Lohan, who opens morning-after hangxiety. Yeah, we up about her life in the spotlight on were sceptical, too – so we put them p66. And, for the nights you do to the test for you on p45. Feeling want to go big, we’ve got you that ‘I’ve definitely over-booked covered – from how to perfect the myself’ dread? Learn how to cancel glossiest lips, to the partywear just your plans without p*ssing anyone screaming to be danced in (on off (p58). Ready to break up with your bed or in the bar). your heels and confess your undying S o, go for th and have the love for flats? You’re not the only one Christmas and New Year’s Eve that feels right for you, not the one you feel pressured to have. AND THE FORMER CO-STAR I’D LOVE TO WORK WITH AGAIN IS... HOW I UNWIND FAVOURITE YEAR OF MY LIFE SO FAR THE THING THAT MAKES ME FORGET ABOUT THE WORLD Claire Hodgson EDITOR-IN- CHIEF C o s m o p o l i ta n 5

What’s your best hangover cure? A bowl of porridge, a pint of water and paracetamol before bed. Eating three days’ worth of food in two hours. There isn’t one after 27. It’s pure suffering until 5pm, when you find the strength to eat... Five Guys and a Coke, obvs! Chilling with my friends and laughing about the night before. Sometimes it ends up being more fun than the actual night out... In Antigua, my go-to is a day at the beach, breathing in the fresh sea air. Not as glam here in the UK, but works just as well. CLAIRE HODGSON Editor-in-Chief Executive Editor JESS EDWARDS Creative Director DECLAN FAHY Workflow Director CARLY LEVY Digital Editor ZOE SHENTON Entertainment Entertainment Editor DUSTY BAXTER-WRIGHT Senior Entertainment & Lifestyle Writer LYDIA VENN Editorial Assistant & Junior Writer EMILY GULLA Features Features Director HARRIET HALL Commissioning Director CATRIONA INNES Features Editor JENNIFER SAVIN Sex & Relationships Editor PAIGE VAHLA Features Writer JADE BIGGS Features Intern CHLOE BOWEN Design Art Director WILL JACK Digital Design Editor JAIME LEE Art Editor NATHALIE BATES Art Editor REBECCA BRIDLE Art Editor JADE COOPER-COLLINS Art Editor JESSICA WEBB Designer SOPHIE BROWN Designer FLORENCE OGRAM Pictures Photographic Director RACHAEL CLARK Photographic Director EMILY MURPHY Picture Editor SARAH ANDERSON Picture Editor SHANA LYNCH Picture Researcher SALLY PRICE Production Group Chief Sub Editor/Production Editor VICTORIA RUDLAND Deputy Chief Sub Editor MATT BLACKWELL Deputy Chief Sub Editor JAMES BROWN Sub Editor KIRTEY VERMA Beauty Beauty Director VICTORIA JOWETT Deputy Beauty Editor HANNA IBRAHEEM Beauty Assistant LIA MAPPOURA Fashion Fashion Director SASKIA QUIRKE Fashion Editor NATASHA HARDING Bookings Editor SOPHIE LEEN Shopping Editor MADDY ALFORD Fashion Assistant COURTNEY SMITH Social & Video Head of Social SOPHIE BOYDEN Video Lead ALEX HERING Deputy Social Media Manager KIERA EGAN Videographer TYRA CHUCK Contributors LOTTIE LUMSDEN (Group Talent Director) OLIVIA BLAIR (Group Talent Editor) AMANDA STATHAM (Travel) KEEKS REID (Beauty) LAUREN NICOLE COPPIN CAMPBELL (Fashion) HE ARST UK Interim CEO SIMON HORNE Finance Director JULIEN LITZELMANN Chief People Officer SURINDER SIMMONS Director of Operations SOPHIE WILKINSON Chief International Brand Officer MATT HAYES Group Brand Director STEVEN MILES Director of PR & Communications ALISON FORTH Editorial Business Director CONNIE OSBORNE Business Strategy Director ROMAIN METRAS Editorial Business Manager DAVID FOSTER Digital Development Director MATT HILL Hearst Solutions Chief Commercial Officer JANE WOLFSON Head of Partnerships MARK MCCAFFERTY Head of Clients JAMIE DOUBLEDAY Head of Digital Sales RYAN BUCKLEY Head of Fashion, Beauty & Luxury SARAH TSIRKAS Head of Travel DENISE DEGROOT Head of Entertainment & Technology KELLY WARNELL Head of Food & Drink TIM ROSENBERG Head of Regional LISA BHATTI Client Director, Health & Wellness NATASHA BAILEY Client Director, Fashion CHRIS HEALY (maternity cover) Client Director, Beauty LEE BAILEY Watches & Jewellery Manager OLIVIA HORROCKS-BURNS Director of Commercial Production WILL VILLE Art Director, Branded Content MAIREAD GLEESON Head of Media Planning LUCY PORTER Senior Media Planning Manager BETH RONAN Fashion’s golden age has arrived (p33) Ring, £57, Hey Harper Communications & PR Head of PR & Communications BEN BOLTON PR & Communications Manager CALUM FORBES Consumer Sales & Marketing Chief Consumer Revenue Officer REID HOLLAND Senior Consumer Revenue Director JAMES HILL Head of Subscriptions, Marketing & Circulation JUSTINE BOUCHER Digital Marketing & CRM Director SEEMA KUMARI Hearst Magazines International President, Hearst Magazines International JONATHAN WRIGHT Senior Vice President/Global Editorial & Brand Director KIM ST CLAIR BODDEN Global Editorial & Brand Director CHLOE O’BRIEN Editor-in-Chief, Cosmopolitan (1965-1997) HELEN GURLEY BROWN International Editions Bulgaria, China, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Hungary, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Middle East, Netherlands, Philippines, Slovenia, Spain, Taiwan, Ukraine, USA For all advertising enquiries, go to hearst.co.uk/brands/cosmopolitan. For all PR enquiries, email pressenquiries@hearst.co.uk. For all event enquiries, contact hearstevents@hearst.co.uk. Already a subscriber? Visit hearstmagazines.co.uk/managemyaccount to update your contact details, renew your subscription and find out when your next issue is due to be delivered. Contact us at hearstmagazines.co.uk/contact-us. Call us on 01858 438439. Lines open weekdays, 8am-9.30pm; Saturdays, 8am-4pm. Please note: You can also contact us regarding new subscriptions and back issues. Cosmopolitan UK is printed in Poland by Quad/Graphics Europe and distributed by Frontline Ltd, Peterborough (01733 555161) This magazine can be recycled either through your kerbside collection, or at a local recycling point. Log on to recyclenow.com and enter your postcode to find your nearest sites. Cosmopolitan UK is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (which regulates the UK’s magazine and newspaper industry.) We abide by the Editors’ Code of Practice and are committed to upholding the highest standards of journalism. If you think that we have not met those standards and want to make a complaint, please email complaints@hearst.co.uk or visit hearst.co.uk/hearst-magazines-uk-complaints-procedure. If we are unable to resolve your complaint, or if you would like more information about IPSO or the Editors’ Code, contact IPSO on 0300 123 2220 or visit ipso.co.uk. Cosmopolitan UK is published in the UK by The National Magazine Company Limited. House of Hearst, 30 Panton Street, London SW1Y 4AJ. Copyright ©, The National Magazine Company Limited, 2022. All rights reserved. ISSN 0141-0555. Published six times a year. Conditions apply. Cosmopolitan is a trademark of Hearst Magazines Inc., 300 West 57th Street, New York NY 10019, USA. COSMO is a trademark of The National Magazine Company Limited. C o s m o p o l i ta n 7

An oral history of Which romcom queen are you? Build your own cheesy Pitch Perfect’s Cups Is Christmas TV Page 12 Christmas movie Page 14 officially over? Page 13 Page 17 play Name a better duo: you and your sofa Whether you’re going out or staying in, we’ve got your winter plans sorted W O R D S : E M I LY G U L L A C o s m o p o l i ta n 9
P L AY The playlist Roald Dahl’s Matilda The Musical In cinemas (25 Nov) and on Netflix (2 Dec) Emma Thompson (Miss Trunchbull) and Lashana Lynch (Miss Honey) star in this film version of the massive West End hit, adapted from Dahl’s classic. With incredible music by Tim Minchin, we’re ready for a singalong. The Witcher: Blood Origin The English I Hate Suzie Too All episodes on BBC iPlayer, 10 November Premiering on Sky Atlantic, December Forget period dramas: we’re turning our attention to westerns. Emily Blunt stars as Lady Cornelia Locke, with Twilight’s Chaske Spencer as Native American ex-cavalry scout Eli Whipp. The pair face a series of increasingly terrifying obstacles that will test them to their limits, in a story of race, love and power. Billie Piper is back as former child star Suzie Pickles in what promises to be an ‘anti-Christmas Christmas special’. The three-part series sees Suzie trying to salvage her career and reputation by entering a reality TV competition called Dance Crazee. New cast members include It’s A Sin’s Omari Douglas. 10 C o s m o p o l i ta n Fans of The Witcher, rejoice: there’s a prequel series coming your way. Set 1,200 years before the events of the original, Blood Origin takes things right back to the beginning – tracking the mystical history of the Continent and the creation of the first witcher. Michelle Yeoh, Sophia Brown and Nathaniel Curtis star. Expect epic fight scenes. PHOTOGRAPHY: MIA ANDRÉ, GETTY IMAGES Premiering 25 December, Netflix
P L AY The playlist Get lit Mad Honey by Jo di Picoult and Jennifer Finney B oylan, out now Kehlani - Blue Water Road Trip Tour UK venues, 4 to 12 December To support the release of their album Blue Water Road, Kehlani is touring the UK – playing London, Glasgow, Birmingham and Manchester. The perfect beach-themed escape from the winter chill. Go to kehlani.com/tour for tickets. Falling For Christmas Premiering 10 November, Netflix Christmas + Lindsay Lohan = two of our favourite things. She stars as a newly engaged hotel heiress who suffers amnesia after a skiing mishap. On hand to care for her is a handsome lodge owner (Glee’s Chord Overstreet) and his daughter. Do we sense a happy ending? Olivia’s son is arrested on suspicion of murdering his girlfriend. Really Good, Actually by Monica Heisey, 19 January The Schitt’s Creek screenwriter’s debut novel is a funny and honest look at love and divorce. RuPaul’s DragCon UK ExCel Centre, London, 6 to 8 January RuPaul is heading to the UK for the ultimate drag culture celebration. Expect appearances from your favourite queens in the flesh, with the likes of A’Whora, Baga Chipz and The Vivienne already signed up. Mama Ru herself also brings a DJ set to the Main Stage. What more could you ask for? This is a new year’s treat you won’t want to miss. The Things That We Los t by J yot i Pa tel, 12 Januar y Nik sets out to unlock the secrets of the late father he never met. A tender tale of family and loss. Driving Home For Christmas by Joanna Bolouri, 1 0 N ove m b e r What could be more festive than this romance? C o s m o p o l i ta n 11
P L AY B i g q u i z e n e rg y Which classic rom-com queen are you? Maid In Manhattan was first released 20 whole years ago, cementing Jennifer Lopez (aka Affleck) as a rom-com icon. But when it comes to your own dating diaries, are you more Marisa or Bridget Jones? S a ll y Al br ig ht – M e g R ya n WORDS: CARINA HSIEH QUESTION A B C D What’s the first thing your eyes zap to on a dating profile? The bio. Can I talk to this person for the rest of my life? Do I want to? Ambition. I want someone with big dreams. Looking for an equal. LOL. I don’t have the emotional bandwidth to be on dating apps rn. Red flags, baby. Anything that indicates they’re going to cheat. Your worst group chat behaviour is: Having the hot take on a thing everyone else agrees on. Judgemental? Me? I’m firm but fair. Spewing unsolicited advice and/or typing, ‘If I were you…’ Your friends never set you up with people because they’re like: ‘You’re too picky.’ ‘No one will be good enough.’ Mostly As ‘Everyone is intimidated by you.’ Nothing gets you ~in the mood~ like sexual tension served with a steaming side of contempt. It’s a privilege to argue with you. Mostly Bs Cancelling plans. Oops. La u re n H a r r i s – Ta ra j i P H e n s o n ‘I have tried. SO. MANY. TIMES.’ You’re a hard nut to crack and have a gazillion options, but you do go after what you want (when you realise you want it). Mostly Cs Your living situation is: Pinterest hygge goals. Which kind of niche writerly profession speaks to you? Local newspaper reporter. I want to make people cry over missing dogs. All mine. I worked hard for this and it shows. Particular, efficient and exactly where you’d want to sleep. The introvert’s lair. Blankets, takeaways and dreaming about my soulmate. I’m all business. Side hustle advice, sorted. Ghostwriting my idol Michelle Obama’s latest memoir. I document my life in my newsletter. Three subscribers = #ad deals, right? M a r i s a Ve nt u ra – J e n ni fe r Lo p e z Your friends come to you for everything from partner problems to period pain (you definitely have paracetamol at all times). Life would probably be a shambles without your expertise. Mostly Ds Is something broken? Unclear. Will you try to fix it anyway? Most definitely. You love a project. Good luck turning that Hugh Grant into a Colin Firth. 12 C o s m o p o l i ta n PHOTOGRAPHY: MOVIESTILLSDB.COM B r i d g et J o n e s – Re n é e Ze l l we g e r
P L AY Fe s t i ve f i l m s The inspiration for your next tattoo will come from: BOO YO U Your dog’s name, obviously CHRISTMAS The zodiac FESTIVUS Your Instagram saved pictures DECEMBER A quote you love HOLIDAY + Your very accurate cheesy Christmas film title generator ’Tis the season for an adorable meet-cute Your Hollywood Chris of choice is: + Pine INCREDIBLY Hemsworth DELIGHTFULLY Five Guys SECRETIVE PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES WORDS: ELIZABETH ANN ENTENMAN Don’t lie, you live for sugary dialogue, campy plot points and wildly predictable endings. The only thing better would be if one of these gems was all about... you. Could you find love in an unexpected place or reconnect with a high school sweetheart? The answer is yes. Follow the prompts on the right and thread together the red text to discover the name of this very personal, maybe a little nonsensical film. (Mine, FYI: Incredibly Dashing December Reunion.) Which fastfood fries would you commit crimes for? McDonald’s MIRACULOUS Pratt SUDDENLY Burger King DASHING KFC JOLLY Evans TRULY + LEON FANCY Which Beyoncé album produced the best screamthe-lyrics-whiledancing/crying bangers? Dangerously In Love WEDDING 4 BABY B’Day MIRACLE I Am… Sasha Fierce ENGAGEMENT Renaissance SWITCH Lemonade REUNION C o s m o p o l i ta n 13
P L AY C o s m o Rew i n d Pitch Perfect made Cups the song you’ll never get out of your head. Here’s how… For the film’s 10th anniversary, Anna Kendrick and a bunch of the cast and crew tell you an almost unbelievable story efore 2012, you probably never once tried to slam a cup on a table in rapid succession to see what sound it would make or ever thought to google ‘a cappella groups at [insert the name of your university]’. But with a hilarious take on the surprisingly cut-throat world of college singing competitions that was like Glee but (hot take) funnier, Pitch Perfect changed all of that. On top of making $115million (approx £103million) at the box office, it also gave us a she’s-a-movie-star-now performance by Anna Kendrick; the absolute banger of a line, ‘I’m gonna kill him! I’m gonna finish him like a cheesecake’; and the true phenomenon here, Cups . The refresher you probably don’t need: in the film, Kendrick sits onstage in a dark auditorium to perform the song as her audition for The Bellas. And even though her routine lasts just 30 seconds, 14 C o s m o p o l i ta n it was a big-enough deal to prompt a single on the film’s soundtrack and a stand-alone music video – which now has upwards of 639million YouTube views. Basically, it’s the type of viral sensation that would have taken over TikTok – had TikTok existed back then – and maybe still will, given the fact that a new show set in the Pitch Perfect universe, Bumper In Berlin, just dropped in the US (UK release details are TBC). In the meantime, please enjoy this ultimate behind-the-scenes experience. Kendrick first saw a video of the folk-pop song Cups (When I’m Gone) by musical duo Lulu and the Lampshades on Reddit, where it hadn’t got much traction. She studied its clap-smack-table choreography – at that point, basically just a party trick – before auditioning for the role of Beca. ANNA KENDRICK (ACTOR, BECA): I spent a day annoying my roommate and teaching myself to do this thing with this cup. So when the PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY UNIVERSAL PICTURES/PETER LOVINO WORDS: ILANA K APLAN
P L AY C o s m o Rew i n d Pitch Perfect folks needed me to sing something to make sure I didn’t sound like a dying cat, I thought, There’s this weird thing that I can do, so why not? Because that’ll be a good use of those several hours that I wasted. MAX HANDELMAN (PRODUCER): Every actor was required to come up with their own song. There was a heavy amount of Lady Gaga and Adele. But Anna came in and said, ‘I didn’t have a lot of time to prepare, but I saw this really cool song online,’ and then she sat down at this table and did Cups . It was obvious that it was a great song and different from everything we were hearing. JASON MOORE (DIRECTOR): We knew we wanted [Kendrick’s character] Beca to sing something contrary in the movie for her audition for The Bellas. Everyone else is singing a Kelly Clarkson song, and we wanted her to do something slightly unique or a little bit ‘fuck you’. She was supposed to sing I’m a Little Teapot, but I thought, why don’t we just put Cups in the movie? KENDRICK: Jason and I were debating trying to put it in the shower scene, where I ended up singing Titanium , by David Guetta featuring Sia. Like, maybe I was doing it with a shampoo bottle or something, but we ended up feeling like the best place for it was in Beca’s audition. ANNA CAMP (ACTOR, AUBREY): When we were shooting, I had to be Aubrey instead of myself and act a little less impressed than I was because Anna Camp, the actress, was actually very impressed. Choosing the exact right kind of cup to film was its own challenge. Kendrick and Moore were practically a couple of cup hoarders trying to find the best. There was, of course, a debate about Solo cups. KENDRICK: Jason and I would steal every cup we found lying around that might be a different texture or material and therefore might produce a different sound. For people who’ve tried it, I’m sure they’ve discovered very quickly that if you just do it with a red Solo cup, it doesn’t sound very good. HANDELMAN: There was a lot of internal debate about whether we could use a red cup or a yellow cup because cups were synonymous with drinking ‘Someone walked up to me at the White House Correspondents’ Dinner, shoved a glass in my face, and they were like, “Do Cups”’ Anna Kendrick on the set of the Cups video, which 300 people auditioned for beer and fraternity parties, and the Motion Picture Association had a lot of restrictions because the film was marketed to younger kids. KENDRICK: Jason and I had a bag full of cups that we then started banging on the stage to figure out which was the right one. So we were like, ‘Let’s make it Anna Camp and Brittany Snow’s cup of pens.’ I steal it off their table, and that’s how I started doing it. Cups became the most iconic part of the film and practically begged for its own Big Thing. It got it, in the form of a stand-alone music video with Kendrick’s character working as a baker in the back of a diner. As she daydreams about leaving her job, she – and the customers – pass the time by clapping and smacking cups on the table. MOORE: Somebody had the idea to set Cups to music to do a Lumineers sound – that kind of American folk sound that was on pop stations. The song went either double platinum or triple platinum. That became a radio track, which, again, shocked everyone to death. So it was like, ‘Well, let’s make a music video for it.’ C o s m o p o l i ta n 15
P L AY C o s m o Rew i n d KENDRICK: Look, I’ll be honest, when they first floated the idea of doing a music video, I was like, ‘What are you guys talking about? That’s so strange.’ MOORE: It was an unusual opportunity to make a music video to an American folk song. We had open-call auditions. I think 300 people showed up, from five years old all the way to 80. AAKOMON JONES (CHOREOGRAPHER): Part of the audition was bringing in people to see how they do their own version of Cups , because it had obviously become such a popular thing by that point. KENDRICK: My roommate at the time is an extra in the music video. He’s the guy in the blue shirt and the brown hoodie. Kendrick’s fame skyrocketed in the wake of the video, and the runaway success of Cups was in part responsible for making two more Pitch Perfect films happen. KENDRICK: Someone walked up to me at the White House Correspondents’ Dinner, shoved a glass in my face, took out their phone, and they were like, ‘Do Cups .’ It was the wildest thing. It’s a fancy party, and I would have shattered the glass into a million pieces if I tried. ‘To this day, parents will give me the stink eye because their kid won’t stop doing Cups’ KAY CANNON (SCREENWRITER): Cups symbolised how this strange film that took a while to be made led to this sensation. It represents the success of the franchise, and I think that’s what we needed. Because I’d have a hard time selling that film now. 16 C o s m o p o l i ta n Anna Kendrick and Jason Moore on the set of Pitch Perfect , where, she says, they were a couple of cup hoarders CAMP: Musical movies were big for a very long time, and then things died down. But Pitch Perfect brought it back in a fresh way that we hadn’t seen before. It was more reality-based than a fantasy version – it made the genre more accessible to a younger generation that wasn’t used to watching music in movies. Ten years later, Cups is still a phenomenon. It has inspired many other pop culture moments and, yes, that new spin-off. Pitch Perfect: Bumper In Berlin will follow Bumper Allen (actor Adam Devine) as he tries to relaunch his music career. Whether or not Bumper gets his own earworm remains to be seen. SARAH WEBSTER (MUSIC SUPERVISOR): The success of Cups is similar to what Kate Bush had this past summer, what Stranger Things did for Running Up That Hill, which I remember from the radio when I was a kid. It’s wonderful there’s an entire new generation that recognises Kate’s artistry and the beauty of her voice and her music. LUISA GERSTEIN (LULU AND THE LAMPSHADES): Tasha did Cups on Love Island recently. It continues to reverberate. Me and Heloise Tunstall-Behrens of the band bought an apartment together with the money we got from Cups . KENDRICK: To this day, parents will still give me the stink eye because their kid won’t stop doing Cups. And all I can say is, ‘I’m so sorry. I’m really sorry.’ MOORE: I get a lot of calls from friends of mine who are like, ‘Thanks a lot.’ PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY UNIVERSAL PICTURES MOORE: The day of the music video, Anna and I agreed we didn’t want anyone to see her do it beforehand so that it would surprise people and we could record that as well. It’s a very genuine look you’re getting from other actors when they’re like, ‘Holy shit, she’s doing it.’ The idea was, ‘Let’s show off Anna’s virtuosic abilities by making her do the whole song in one take.’ It’s just one shot interrupted by one cut or two cuts. I knew she would be really good at that because she’s so skilled and theatre is her background.
P L AY R I P fe s t i ve te l l y Is Christmas TV dead as we know it? Once upon a time, December meant prime-time talent shows and festive specials. But have streaming services spelled the end of shared TV experiences? PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY; SHUTTERSTOCK; BBC/KIERON MCCARRON; BBC/GARY MOYES W O R D S : I S A B E L L A S I LV E R S When I worked in Topshop as a teenager, our Christmas party almost always coincided with the X Factor final. It was festivity at its finest: we’d all crowd around the screen in our itchy sequins, prosecco glistening in hand, and hold our breath as the winner was announced. We’d screech – or groan – when the likes of Matt Cardle or Sam Bailey won the coveted title, before dancing the night away to the winner’s song in a glam Birmingham nightclub. Days later, I’d recreate a similar scene at home. Only this time, after the presents were unwrapped and the roast potatoes had been demolished, it was the explosive EastEnders Christmas special we settled down to devour, having googled a year’s worth of storylines minutes before. Fast-forward a decade or two, and things look a little different. Simon Cowell’s singing competition was cancelled in 2021, while last year’s final of I’m A Celebrity Get Me Out Of Here lost five million viewers compared with the year before. Meanwhile, our viewing habits have changed completely; research shows 16 to 34-year-olds are watching less TV, instead gobbling up content on YouTube and social media, while over 78% of UK consumers now watch streaming platforms. With the likes of Prime Video and Disney+ to turn to, we’re no longer agonising over finding that perfect festive film on terrestrial TV. Just think of the chokehold Vanessa Hudgens and Netflix had us in with The Knight Before Christmas and The Princess Switch (plus its two sequels,) not forgetting the A Christmas Prince series. Then there was Dash & Lily, Love Hard, Holidate… The list of films we can watch whenever we feel the urge goes on. While we may not all be watching the same thing at the same time, we are still tuning in – it’s just the way we do so has changed. In December 2021, Netflix’s Don’t Look Up smashed records for the most hours streamed in its first week of release, while 1.66billion minutes of Soul were watched over two days on Disney+. In fact, ensuring we’ve seen all the streaming services have to offer so we can dissect every scene with our friends or join the collective sigh of ‘cheese’ on Twitter is almost becoming a December tradition in itself. And isn’t this what the true magic of Christmas specials has always been, anyway? Maybe it’s never been about when or on what channel we’re viewing TV, but the nature of gathering a group together (Quality Street in tow) and having a shared experience. While Christmases of the past have involved 10 days of festive scheduling, the availability of festive content from, essentially, whenever you like, creates even more of a buzz. TV is there to be consumed however you and your loved ones please, rather than having to plan your day around the TV guide. For me? I’ll be watching Netflix’s new Falling For Christmas and The Noel Diary, and who knows, maybe a Gavin & Stacey rerun in between. We’re no longer agonising over finding that perfect festive film on terrestrial TV C o s m o p o l i ta n 17

Skincare saviours to Perfect your pout with our lip gloss guide rescue any complexion Diagnose your Page 24 dandruff dilemma Page 23 Page 28 PHOTOGRPAHY: MELISSA KAGERER g l ow Now is the time to play with hair accessories They’ve officially entered their main-character era WORDS: CH LOE M ETZGE R
G LOW Tre n d i n g WH E N YOU WAN T YOUR H AI R. .. Check your feed – decked-out hair is having a resurgence. But here’s what the pics don’t tell you: those ornate headbands and dainty pins and clips are just for show. One strong gust of wind – or too-strong marg – and your half-up hairdo becomes a whole-down by the end of the night. The unseen hero here is a base of clear elastics that covertly anchors your style in place. If you don’t already have natural texture (hi, braids and curls), rake some texturising paste through your ends for a finish that feels defined and purposeful – not just thrown together while leaving the house (even if it probably/ definitely was). Your Toolkit 20 C o s m o p o l i ta n Kitsch No-Snag Clear Elastics, £6 for 100 Ouai Haircare Matte Pomade, £16 Tort Lora Clip in Moonstone Leopard, £26 Accessorize Gem Hair Slide 6 Pack, £12 PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) JACYNTH RODRIGUEZ; M K SADLER; COURTESY SALON PARLOUR; COURTESY LELET NY; (OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) COURTESY AFROANI LIMITED; COURTESY KRISTIN ESS HAIR; GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY KANEL; COURTESY LELET NY Half up
G LOW W HE N YOU WA NT YO UR HA I R .. . Tre n d i n g All up Your Toolkit Amika Perk Up Dry Shampoo, £20 Insert Name Here (INH) INH BB Pins, £10 for 25 Chris Rubin Alina French Hair Pin in Champagne, £19.80 Perfection is the enemy of a great updo. What you actually want is controlled chaos: major texture, some loose ends, casually placed accessories, etc. The easiest way to recreate IDGAF vibes is with dry shampoo (especially if you have slippery, too-clean hair) and kirby grips. Blast your hair with dry shampoo for grit; twist, twirl, and smash your hair; then pin the hell out of it to lock the ‘chill’ in place before adding your clips and hairslides. Emi Jay Big Effing Clip in Brownstone, £32 C o s m o p o l i ta n 21
W H E N YOU WA NT YO U R H A IR . . . All accessories need a little TLC to keep them from sliding down or peacing out. Enter: hairspray – but not in the ‘duh’ way. Before styling, spray the backs of your hairslides to add some grip that’ll keep them adhered to your hair. Working with slippery fabrics such as silk? Mist your hair with hairspray until it’s slightly tacky, then layer on your bows and wraps. And don’t worry about looking stiff – a dab of oil smoothed through your hair will dissolve any hairspray crunch and replace it with a natural, polished shine. Your Toolkit 22 C o s m o p o l i ta n Color Wow Cult Favorite Firm + Flexible Hairspray, £23 NatureLab Tokyo Perfect Shine Oil Mist, £17 Free People Yoko Bow, £20 France Luxe New Cutout Oval Tige Boule Barrette in South Sea, £14.82 PHOTOGRAPHY: (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) COURTESY ROOM SHOP; M K SADLER; COURTESY ROOM SHOP; NILU ZARGHAM; M K SADLER Down
G LOW G et t h e g l o s s An insider’s guide to getting The glossiest lips of all damn time Yes, they’re high-maintenance. But since when has that stopped you? WORDS: CH LOE M ETZGE R START WITH MATTE ‘Use a matching shine-free liquid lipstick under your gloss. The drier formula helps everything last longer, and when the gloss eventually fades, you’ll still have a pretty stain of colour.’ Daniel Avilán, @danavilan DO A LITTLE CONTOUR ‘Grab a lip liner one shade darker than your gloss and fill in the sideways Vs in the corners of your mouth and along the edge of your lower lip for instant dimension and fullness before you apply the gloss.’ Lottie, @lotstar U S E A BROW P ENCI L PHOTOGRAPHY: HANS DE VRIES; BLAUBLUT-EDITION.COM ‘The glossier the lip, the more it’s going to smudge. So first, outline your lips with a clear wax eyebrow pencil to create an invisible barrier for your gloss.’ Moises Ramirez, @moisesartnyc Cop this perfect red DAB IT ON THE MIDDLE ‘Apply gloss only to the centre of your bottom lip, then press your lips together and blend the edges with a finger. This will stop gloss from getting all gummy in the corners of your mouth.’ Robin Black, @beautyisboring DUST ON SOME SHIMMER ‘For extra sheen, swirl powder highlighter over your dry lips with a fluffy eyeshadow brush, then layer on a coat of your gloss.’ Lindsey Williams, @crazypretty L’Oréal Paris High Shine Colour Ink Lipstick in 311 Be Brilliant,£10.99 C o s m o p o l i ta n 23
The newgeneration skin breakthroughs are here From the latest acne ingredient innovations to the all-new celeb-approved facials, these skincare champions are here to rescue any complexion in distress WORDS: LAUREN BALSAMO AND HANNA IBR AHEEM P H O T O G R A P H Y: B R E T T W A R R E N 24 C o s m o p o l i ta n
The acne heroes 1. Azelaic acid Present in many prescription treatments, azelaic acid is gaining popularity in over-the-counter products (such as Algenist’s toner below) that treat acne and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, says dermatologist Dr Joshua Zeichner. It has antibacterial properties, alleviates redness and blocks abnormal pigment production – which is great for fading those dark marks that linger post-breakout. And unlike some other brightening ingredients, azelaic acid is safe to use on all skin types and tones. 2. Niacinamide Think of it as a best supporting actor, says Dr Zeichner. Used on its own, niacinamide won’t clear up acne, but when combined with other treatments, it’s a star, thanks to its ace anti-inflammatory powers (inflammation = a main acne trigger). Oh, it also has oil-regulating properties and can help fade dark marks, too, says dermatologist Dr Shari Marchbein. Try it in Youth To The People’s serum (below). 3. Linoleic acid Studies show that people with acne tend to have low levels of this essential fatty acid in their sebum. This may contribute to clogged pores and inflammation, two precursors to breakouts, says Dr Zeichner. Try a topical leave-on with linoleic acid (like Paula’s Choice serum) to see if it makes a difference for you. 1 2 1. Algenist Genius Liquid Skin Resurfacing 2% BHA Toner, £32 2. Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum, £59 3. Paula’s Choice Omega+ Complex Serum, £35 3
The dry skin saviours Raise your hand if you’ve been personally victimised by the bitter, cold winds outside. Exposing our skin to these biting conditions puts it through a lot. ‘Cold temperatures result in dryer air than in the summer months,’ explains dermatologist Dr Elif Benar. ‘The dry air looks for moisture wherever it can find it, often drawing it from our skin.’ As moisture is essential for the skin’s barrier to function correctly, this lack of humidity can lead to dry, cracked and/or irritated skin. You know that horrible feeling where your face feels tight? Dr Benar recommends hyaluronic acid, as it works by absorbing water like a sponge, locking in moisture. It’s also worth adding vitamin E (a great skin barrier repairer), as well as skincare treatments focused on hydration. Treatments to try: Kate Somerville The Somerville Signature Facial, £145 for 60 mins (go to harveynichols.com/ store/knightsbridge/ kate-somerville for details) Ever since opening her Hollywood clinic in 2004, Kate Somerville has been a go-to for the rich and famous – and, for the first time ever, her treatments are available in the UK. While each session is personalised to you, it’ll include a gentle exfoliation to slough away dead skin cells, O2 therapy to improve circulation, a nourishing jelly mask and the brand’s trademark DermaQuench treatment. If it’s good enough for Eva Mendes… SkinCeuticals’ Expert Hydration Booster, £110 for 60 mins (go to cavendishclinic.co.uk for booking details) Harnessing the power of potent actives, this treatment is all about strengthening the skin’s protective barrier, which is a must during this time of year. It uses SkinCeuticals’ advanced range to deliver high levels of hydration and revive tiredlooking skin – even if you were up all night binge-watching The English on iPlayer… 26 C o s m o p o l i ta n
The glow rescuers As well as moisture loss, our skin becomes prone to dullness and texture issues throughout the cooler months. ‘Exfoliation is vital in keeping skin healthy as it removes dead cells, which will help brighten the complexion,’ explains dermatologist Dr Salome Dharamshi. ‘If these dead cells are left to build up on the surface of the skin, it can lead to a rougher and more uneven appearance.’ Dr Dharamshi recommends incorporating antioxidants, including vitamin C, into your routine to help improve texture, as well as signs of hyperpigmentation. There’s also a wave of skincare treatments, all specifically designed to bring back a glowy complexion. MODEL: ANDREANNA HAYNES. HAIR: TAKUYA YAMAGUCHI. MAKE-UP: DEANNA MELLUSO. MANICURE: NORI YAMANAKA. FASHION STYLING:GUTTER ANDREA ZENDEJAS. ILEANA MAKRI EARRINGS. SOMA TOWEL. FOR SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO COSMOPOLITAN.COM. CREDIT Treatments to try: FaceGym Signature Sculpt, £80 for 45 mins (go to facegym.com for booking details) Facial massage is one of the fastest ways to bring a fresh, radiant appearance to the skin: fact. A fave of Bella Hadid, Selena Gomez and Lizzo, FaceGym’s signature treatment involves ‘muscle manipulation techniques’ to aid circulation and lymphatic drainage while simultaneously contouring your face. HydraFacial x Murad Booster, From £300 for 60 mins (go to hydrafacial.co.uk/brand/ murad for booking details) Known as the ‘vacuum facial’, HydraFacial has now teamed up with cult skincare brand Murad. Each session starts with a skin-imaging analysis to identify concerns and pair you with a suitable Murad Keep an eye out for skin booster – its radiofrequency Vita-C complex, for treatments, says Dr example. The good Salome. ‘A device bit: dislodging dirt delivers energy waves from pores with a into the dermis and (painless) suction painlessly heats skin to 40 to 45°C to stimulate pen that’s truly collagen production, satisfying, alongside which improves skin’s hydradermabrasion, firmness and texture.’ an acid peel and extractions. One to watch for 2023… C o s m o p o l i ta n 27
G LOW 28 T h e d e e p d i ve C o s m o p o l i ta n
G LOW Your scalp deserves a skincare routine, too Dry? Flaky? Itchy? Here’s how to decode (and treat) your haircare woes this winter WORDS: VICTORIA JOWETT It’s easy to roll your eyes when it comes to scalp care, isn’t it? We’re constantly bombarded with beauty solutions to ‘fix’ problems that we never really knew (or cared) about. Untidy cuticles? Dry elbows? Dull hair? When the beauty industry started throwing scalp products into an already overcrowded market, the knee-jerk reaction for most was a hard pass. But as someone who has been through the wringer with my own scalp – which has recurring stubborn, flaky flare-ups – I’ve slowly but surely had my mind changed. Hear me out. Philip Kingsley brand president and consultant trichologist Anabel Kingsley puts it well: ‘Just as if you had a skin condition, such as acne, a scalp condition needs consistent and daily treatment to bring it under control. After all, your scalp is simply an extension of the skin on your forehead.’ Makes sense, and if you ignore an unhealthy scalp, you’re never going to be able to grow healthy hair. Moral of the story? Don’t ignore those little flakes. But here’s where things get interesting: a flaking scalp can be caused by any number of conditions and only one of them is dandruff. So, naturally, treating the issue can be a little complicated. I asked the best experts around to shed a little light on the different causes of a shedding scalp, starting with how to diagnose them – and, most importantly, how to fix the flakes. Here’s what I learned... T h e d e e p d i ve DANDRUFF What to look for: Excess oil and flaking scalp. Tell me more: Our scalps are the perfect habitat for certain yeasts. For most people, they will never cause an issue, but for some, they can wreak havoc. ‘Itching and flaking can occur when a species of yeast called malassezia overgrows,’ explains Kingsley. And some unlucky folk are sensitive to even normal levels of yeast, which results in the same flaking and itching. Let’s put a few misconceptions to bed. Dandruff is incredibly common, affecting 50% of the world’s population. ‘It is not contagious and has nothing to do with a lack of cleanliness,’ explains Dr Sharon Wong, consultant dermatologist, and hair and scalp specialist. How to treat: ‘There is no cure for dandruff, but it’s a highly treatable condition and with the correct haircare routine it can be kept under control,’ says Wong. ‘Look out for anti-yeast actives such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine and ketoconazole.’ We recommend Nizoral Shampoo, £7.49, (as it’s packed with ketoconazole) followed by a rich conditioner. Then be sure to use a deep conditioning treatment such as Gallinée’s Prebiotic Care Mask, £25, once a week to soothe and balance the scalp. 1 2 1. Nizoral Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, £7.49 2. Gallinée Prebiotic Care Mask, £25 C o s m o p o l i ta n 29
T h e d e e p d i ve A DRY SCALP What to look for: Persistent itching and excessive flaking. Tell me more: ‘A dry scalp occurs when the top layer of skin lacks moisture,’ says Kingsley. Often, it’s caused by environmental factors such as over-washing, using very hot water when showering and warm weather. ‘A dry scalp is more common in the summer months, as the scalp can become sunburnt,’ says Kingsley. These environmental factors can trigger moisture loss and dryness, which leads to flaking and persistent itchiness. If your scalp is not producing enough, oil (sebum), or is not adequately replacing it, dryness sets in, just as it does with the skin on our body and face. How to treat: ‘Twice a week, apply a moisturising scalp mask containing ingredients such as aloe vera and mild exfoliants such as betaine salicylate,’ says Kingsley. We love the Living Proof Scalp Care Dry Scalp Treatment, £28, because it’s loaded with hydrating hyaluronic acid, along with Fable & Mane’s SahaScalp Amla Soothing Serum, £32, which is incredibly calming, thanks to its aloe-enriched formula. 1 2 1. Living Proof Dry Scalp Treatment, £28 2. Fable & Mane Amla Soothing Serum, £32 30 C o s m o p o l i ta n ECZEMA AND PSORIASIS What to look for: Silvery scales, flaking, pustules and pronounced redness. Tell me more: ‘Eczema and psoriasis are both common inflammatory skin conditions,’ says Dr Ophelia Veraitch, Harley Street consultant dermatologist and founder of Dr Ophelia skincare. Just as they affect the skin on the face and body, they can affect the scalp. ‘A few red flags to look out for are very heavy scale that’s firmly stuck to your scalp, pustules, bleeding and inflammation,’ says Kingsley. A diagnosis of these more serious conditions will often need a professional eye, so it’s best to talk to a dermatologist or trichologist if you’re worried. How to treat: Dr Veraitch recommends an at-home remedy that is probably in your kitchen cupboard: ‘Using olive oil to soak the scalp can help with flaking. Oil soaks are particularly good at lifting off psoriasis scale and helping with scalp eczema.’ However, when it comes to serious flare-ups, Dr Veraitch advises seeking professional help, as stronger tablet or injection-based treatments may be needed. Finally, opt for fragrance-free haircare designed for sensitive skin, such as Philip Kingsley’s No Scent No Colour Shampoo and Conditioner, £41. 1 1. Philip Kingsley No Scent No Colour Shampoo and Conditioner, £41 PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY G LOW
G LOW T h e d e e p d i ve 5 common scalp stressors Consultant trichologist Anabel Kingsley on the everyday triggers that will aggravate any kind of flaky scalp POLLUTION In the same way pollution can affect the skin on our face, it also affects the scalp. ‘Dust, dirt and daily grime can increase the likelihood of scalp problems, such as flaking and itching, as well as the formation of pimples,’ says Kingsley. Opt for a gentle cleansing scalp scrub such as the Kérastase Soothing Scrub Cleanser, £43.25, to remove build-up and pollutants. HORMONES According to Kingsley, the hormonal shifts leading up to and during your period can result in an oilier scalp – and this may trigger flaking and itching, especially if you are predisposed to dandruff. Redken’s Amino-Mint Scalp Shampoo, £20, helps balance the scalp’s pH, which can help regulate oil levels. DIET Foods that affect the skin on your face can impact your scalp – and, annoyingly, it’s all the fun stuff. ‘Full-fat dairy products, such as cheese, as well as sugary and spicy foods, can flare up a problematic scalp,‘ says Kingsley. White wine and champagne can also aggravate the scalp. But before you ditch the Friday-night takeaway, there’s hope: ‘Trigger foods are not the same for everyone. Work out what yours are, if any, by process of elimination,’ says Kingsley, STRESS Stress can lead to spikes in cortisol levels, which can increase oil production on your scalp, explains Kingsley. But it can also disrupt the skin’s barrier function, which can lead to irritations and inflammation. ‘This is why you may find that your scalp gets itchy, flaky, overly sensitive and greasy when you are going through a stressful period,’ she adds. UV EXPOSURE Protecting the scalp from UV rays is critical; after all, the skin on our head can burn just as easily as the skin on our face, and this can lead to discomfort, flaking and peeling, explains Kingsley. Ultrasun’s UV Face & Scalp Mist SPF50, £20, is a non-greasy transparent mist that can protect your sensitive scalp from sun exposure. C o s m o p o l i ta n 31
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A case Peak puff for flats A-list fashion Audit your Page 37 street style Page 40 wardrobe Page 38 Page 43 style The golden era You = almost famous, or at least dressing like it, in this season’s glitzy, glamorous, statement-making styles W O R D S : TA R A H - LY N N S A I N T- E L I E N A N D VA L E R I YA C H U P I N I N A S H O P P I N G E D I T O R : M A D DY A L F O R D P H O T O G R A P H Y: J E F F R E Y W E S T B R O O K C o s m o p o l i ta n 33
ST Y L E Love t h i s fo r yo u Party platforms CAROLINA HERRERA Talk about making an entrance Dress, £155, Kitri Shoes, £120, Geox £49.99, Bershka GUCCI FENDI BY VERSACE £140, Steve Madden Skirt, £103.20, Nasty Gal GET GLOWING From the catwalk to real life, this metallic trend shines bright. Go big or add just a fleck – it all works. Ring, £57, Hey Harper £45, Simmi at Schuh FASH I O N TR END Dress, £89, Oasis by Rachel Stevens 34 C o s m o p o l i ta n Precious metal Consider this your very own gold rush £169, Kurt Geiger TOWER BLOCK Sparkles, satin and jewels – this trend leaves no heel unturned. These will pair perfectly with mini skirts, maxi dresses and tailored looks. (Disco playlist optional.)
ST Y L E Love t h i s fo r yo u CAROLINA HERRERA Earrings, £16, River Island Choker, £22.99, Mango CHANEL Bag, £219, Kurt Geiger Bag, £59.99, Zara Ring, £49.99, Crystal Haze Ring, £90, Pandora Bag, £9, Primark Shoes, £48, Next Necklace, £49.99, H&M Studio SPARKLE, BABY See and be seen this winter wearing the chicest blingy accents. (Honestly, they couldn’t look away if they tried.) Loafers, £197, Michael Kors VERSACE FASH I ON TR E ND Glittery accessories A little drama never hurt anyone, right? Earrings, £14, Accessorize Ring, £15, & Other Stories C o s m o p o l i ta n 35
ST Y L E Love t h i s fo r yo u SIMON MILLER Bag, £35, Accessorize GUCCI Dress, £54.99, Superdry Top, £95, & Other Stories Dress, £150, Free People Skirt, £30, Monki Dress, £149, Nasty Gal LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL No matter how simple or complex the silhouette, sequins make everything – from crop tops to kitten heels – 10 times more fun. FASH I O N TR END Sequins Top, £42, and trousers, £79, both Sister Jane 36 C o s m o p o l i ta n There’s no such thing as too many Skirt, £149, Mint Velvet FASHION STYLIST: ANDREA ZENDEJAS. HAIR: YOHEY NAKATSUKA AT DEFACTO. MAKE-UP: DEANNA MELLUSO AT L’ATELIER. MODEL: ALANA LAMBERT/ MMG MODELS. RUNWAY AND DESIGNER IMAGERY: GETTY IMAGES; IMAXTREE; COURTESY OF SIMON MILLER 16ARLINGTON
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF SOPHIA WEBSTER ST Y L E Am I the only one who can’t go back to wearing heels? W O R D S : N ATA S H A H A R D I N G Party outfits never used to feel complete without a pair of heels. At least, not to me. Maybe it’s because dresses tend to look that bit fancier with stilettos. Or perhaps it’s that enduring hours of pain – complete with blisters resembling fashion battle scars – made me feel like I’d really put in the extra effort for a special occasion (misguided, I know). I would go as far as to say that, pre-pandemic, if I was having a few drinks with friends or going to a work event, I would feel underdressed in anything other than heels. Mini slingbacks (we’re talking three inches max) were my respite and, even then, they felt like something of a cop-out. Fast-forward to 2022 and now pulling on a pair of kitten heels feels like a tall order (literally). Sure, I’m getting older and my impatience with discomfort is likely just part of the process (is anyone else totally over spending a small fortune on blister plasters and gel pads?). But, after years of my feet being cocooned in the soothing comfort of trainers and slippers D e b a te throughout the various lockdowns, I just can’t bring myself to go back. I’ll admit, I’ve loved hunting for the perfect pair of square-toe ballet flats or buckle embellished loafers. After all, there’s something exciting about taking your wardrobe in a new direction. Despite no longer wanting to force my feet through the highheel wringer, I still find myself admiring impractical heels while I’m shopping. There’s something about high heels that screams, ‘I can make you a glamorous person.’ They offer the promise that those extra inches will turn you into a Beyoncé or Lady Gaga – someone with feet of steel who can strut for hours like it’s no big deal. The thing is, I’m not that gal any more – at least, not right now. Maybe one day I’ll come back around. But until that time comes, I will be flying the flag for flats. Kitten heels are now a tall order C o s m o p o l i ta n 37
ST Y L E I t ’s a w h o l e t h i n g Influencers have platforms, celebs have street style And yeah, they’re definitely using it to stay famous WO RDS: MAGG I E GRI SWO LD 38 C o s m o p o l i ta n GUTTER CREDIT I n a world where pretty much anyone can go viral on social media as long as they have a phone, internet access and a good/bad/ weird/dramatic idea, it’s become hard out there for A-listers. Well, obviously not, like, truly hard, but a bit more difficult to compete with career influencers for attention (not to mention for lucrative endorsement deals). Their solution? The expertly taken, looks-candid-but-is-almost-certainly-not street-style photo. Yes, I mean those paparazzi shots featuring your favourite celebrity striding from supermarket to car or from car to coffee shop in an enviable outfit. You may have saved a few to Pinterest when hoarding future wardrobe inspo. (I definitely will wear a fuzzy jacket and crop top combo one day.) You may have marvelled at said star’s cool off-duty style, their ability to just ‘throw something together’. You and everyone else. ‘A paparazzi-captured image is almost automatically more eye-catching and viral than an lnstagram post,’ says celebrity photographer Miles ‘Diggzy’ Diggs, who’s snapped everyone from Rihanna and Kendall Jenner to the Hadid sisters. ‘People tend to be drawn towards the voyeuristic element.’ There’s something intoxicating about seeing a Very Famous Person when they’re not posing for an official shot. For those of us constantly craving more access to stars, the perceived intimacy these photos impart is practically addictive. Plus, there’s the added excitement that comes with wondering where they’re going and what they’II be doing in their chic clothes. The mystery is half the allure. Except (and sorry, it kinda crushed me, too) there’s not actually much that’s spontaneous about celebrity candids. Or should I say plandids? Not unlike the long con of the no-make-up make-up look,
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES ST Y L E a lot more strategising goes into these ephemeral moments than it might appear. And the celebs are almost always in on it. Los Angeles photographer Tim Regas often gets requests to take photos of stars in specific settings – usually promoting a street-style outfit. Although it’s generally celebrities’ stylists or managers making contact with Regas, the celebs themselves are ultimately calling the (literal and figurative) shots for what is a surprisingly large team effort. Getting just one casually out-and-about pic can involve a stylist, personal or corporate PR, a manager, friends and, finally, a venue. ‘They all play a role in getting a photographer and a celeb connected for an image,’ he says. Goal number one for celebrities is to land their plandids in popular tabloids and glossy fashion magazines (hi), says New York City photographer Christopher Peterson. The more exposure a star gains this way, the more likely they are to get work from brands that want, say, their water bottles or new trainers featured in paparazzi photos. It doesn’t matter if an actor or musician is promoting a huge movie or album at the time – the ongoing influence is what’s important here, because those who really lean into their specific street-style approach are thrust even further into the spotlight. Take Hailey Bieber, says Regas. ‘She has a great stylist, plus her own charisma that allows for a variety of looks that are “on-brand” for her. And CLICK, CLICK Rihanna, Vanessa now fans actively want Hudgens, Bella to see those looks.’ As Hadid, Hailey in, if Hailey’s streetBieber, Dua Lipa, and Ciara style photos were like a subscription service, her followers would happily sign up. (Business idea, anyone?) Same goes for Rihanna, Gigi and Bella Hadid, Dua Lipa and a handful of other stars who are consistently seen in paparazzi photos wearing covetable ensembles outside of Met Galas or movie premieres. The personal brands they’ve carved out for themselves via street style – and the photographers ensuring they’re seen – constantly put them at the forefront of our minds. Maybe even more mind-blowing: the street-style photos can become another income stream... for celebrities. There I t ’s a w h o l e t h i n g There’s something intoxicating about seeing a Very Famous Person when they’re not posing for an official shot have been industry rumours about certain stars who’ve had a financial stake in the seemingly unplanned photos of themselves. Kim Kardashian, ever the strategist, is claimed to have worked directly with top photo agency Splash News to earn a cut of sales. ‘I’m surprised more people aren’t doing it,’ says Peterson. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly how all this behind-the-scenes info is supposed to make us regulars feel. In some ways, getting a peek at how the street-style sausage (sorry) is made lessens the thrill. But it’s also kind of like getting sucked into an incredible novel – reality is beside the point as long as it makes you feel something. And what I’m often feeling while scrolling through these pics is: hell yeah, great outfit idea. Plus, the fact that these photos manage to stand out in the 24/7 content hive of the internet says something else: the list of people who get to call themselves famous may be ever-changing, but the voyeuristic nature of humans? That’s going to be here as long as the cameras keep flashing. C o s m o p o l i ta n 39
ST Y L E P u f f fa s h i o n HERE’S THE THING M a rs h m a l l ow tex tu re h a s of f ic i a l l y g o n e b eyo n d wh e re it p reviou s l y d a re d to tre a d . I t’s n o l o ng e r re s tr ic te d to ja c kets a n d oute r we a r – you’ ll f i n d it o n b a g s , s h o e s , s c a r ve s a n d eve n p h o n e c a s e s (D u a L i p a i s o b s e s s e d with Th e Puf fe r C a se , F W IW ). H o n e s tl y, thi s i s a ll g re at n ews , c o n s i d e r i n g h ow to a s t y we’re a b out to b e thi s wi nte r. Puff fashion is at its peak right now The trend (literally) keeps getting bigger and bigger W O R D S : L A U R E N A D H AV 40 C o s m o p o l i ta n
P u f f fa s h i o n ST Y L E Perfect for layering T-shirt, £85, Ganni Gilet, £36.99, New Look Slippers, £70, Pangaia Fine, not puffy, but they totally fit the vibe Phone case, £60, Urban Sophistication Joggers, £66, Stax Boots, £80, Koi Footwear at Urban Outfitters Jacket, £215, The North Face Coat, £69.99, Mango Coat, £82, Next Scarf, £40, Finisterre SHOPPING EDITOR: MADDY ALFORD. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF WINNIE Ring, £49, Sandralexandra Jacket, £135, Dickies Boots, £275, Russell & Bromley Bag, £79.99, H&M Studio Jacket, £55, V By Very C o s m o p o l i ta n 41
A DV E RT I S E M E N T F E AT U R E Sparkling Wishbone Ring, £55 PHOTOGRAPHY: @ANNABREMWILSON Stacks of style Find everything you need to sparkle this season at Pandora A new season means a fresh chance to express yourself with a style switch up. Whether you’re a minimalist looking to add a statement finish to your look or a fashion extrovert wanting to influence and inspire, this autumn/winter’s jewellery trends have something for everyone. Here are the ones to take note of and how to style them with Pandora. Wishbone Ring, £40 Tiara Wishbone Ring, £55 LOOKING ROSY Rose gold is making a resplendent return this season. The soft pink hues can be dialled up or down depending on your own unique style, whether it’s a statement necklace or a build up of more low-key pieces. For a chic-yet-subtle injection of the modern gold, just add a pair of two-tone studs with shimmering silver complementing the rose colours. Elsewhere, let your jewellery do the talking with stacks of rose-gold rings, mixing polished and simple bands with a standout bejewelled number. Snake Chain Bracelet, £150; Heart Pavé Clasp Bracelet, £75 Heart T-Bar Snake Chain Bracelet, £150; Pavé Clip Charm, £55 Entwined Hearts Charm, £60 T-Bar Snake Chain Bracelet, £60 A-WRISTERS Bangles are back in a big way and the good news is that more is more. Pandora has a range of metals and finishes to suit every taste and budget, so wear armfuls of classic gold-plated bracelets to add a feminine edge to the oversized-blazer trend. Or balance out bright colours with sterling-silver mesh bangles. Padlock & Key Charm, £70 Lucky Clover, Wishbone & Horseshoe Charm, £250 WINTER CHARMERS Is there anything that lets you express your personality more than a charm bracelet? Whether it’s a pop of colour via hand-set stones to wear with the renewed leather trend or an oceaninspired adornment to accompany a denim jacket, charms are the ultimate way to tailor your jewellery to whichever trend takes your fancy. Explore the new collection in-store or online at uk.pandora.net
ST Y L E FIRST: LOOK AT WHAT YOU HAVE Contrary to popular opinion, rather than starting with a cull, we recommend sorting through everything you want to keep. This builds the foundation of your wardrobe and gives you a sense of what you love before you move on. Once you’re clear on what’s staying you can tackle the rest. TIP Not 100% sure whether to get rid of an item? Keep a ‘maybe’ pile, capped at five pieces to stay disciplined. After a few weeks, take a look back and see if you wore any of them. The key to an effective audit is being realistic about what you will wear again. Next, make a pile of the clothes that don’t fit any more, along with the pieces you can’t remember wearing in the past year. Then, go back for round two and be a bit more ruthless. Ask yourself: ‘Do I actually wear it, or do I just like the idea of it?’ When you’re done, pop your ‘keep’ clothes in your wardrobe. THEN: START SORTING Now it’s time to decide what you want to toss, donate, upcycle and sell. A few things to keep in mind as you make your way through: WORDS: NATASHA HARDING. PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY How to audit your wardrobe New year, new style (sort of) ‘I hate all my clothes’ is a line I’ve heard a lot recently. If this sounds familiar, the chances are you might have outgrown your could never current wardrobe (emotionally or otherwise) and are looking achieve this to take your style in a new direction. Maybe you’ve had the same going-out dresses since your student days, or perhaps your clothes just don’t feel very ‘you’ any more. Whatever the reason, refreshing your wardrobe can be equal parts cathartic and overwhelming. Enter: a fashion editor’s guide to navigating your 2023 aesthetic. 1. If items are damaged (ie, ripped, stained or worn through), put them in a clothes recycling bin. Alternatively, if you think something is worth saving, The Restory specialises in repairing and restoring high-end designer items. The Seam and Sojo are both great for fixing and altering pieces at any price point – and Sojo even lets you arrange for items to be collected from your door. 2. Pieces in good condition that you just don’t want to wear any more are perfect for donating or selling. Depop is great for unique, on-trend pieces. Vinted is a go-to for your favourite high street labels and eBay is a one-stop shop. 3. If there’s anything you think could be repurposed (turning a dress into a top or cutting an old tee into cleaning cloths), these are your upcycles. For inspo, the A fa s h i o n e d i to r ’s g u i d e to. . . #upcycledfashion hashtag on TikTok has over 656m views, offering endless ideas for reinventing the items in your wardrobe. FINALLY: MAINTAIN Now that your wardrobe is more cleansed than your chakras, take a minute to think about how to approach your clothes going forwards. Not only will this save you money and space, it also reduces waste by making you a more effective shopper. 1. Look for commonalities (colours, print, shapes) in the items you have – this helps you better understand your personal style and prevent endless umming and ahhing at the checkout. Allison Bornstein is a stylist on TikTok and Instagram who champions the three-word rule. Basically, review your fashion vibe and come up with three words that sum it up best. Hers are classic, 70s and elegant – but it could be anything; playful, bright and Scandi; androgynous, minimal and relaxed. You get the gist. Once you have those, use them to guide any future purchases. 2. If, in your sorting, you found that you wear one item a lot (to the point that it’s been worn out), note this as something to buy more of. 3. To keep your wardrobe lean and efficient, try using a ‘one in, one out’ rule. This means that whenever you acquire a new piece, take a look at your wardrobe and see if you can swap out something you no longer wear and could potentially upcycle, sell or donate. 4. Try downloading an app such as Whering (aka the Clueless app), which is designed to help you get the most out of your wardrobe by keeping a record of everything you have, letting you piece together new outfits you might not have considered with the help of different mood boards. C o s m o p o l i ta n 43

Have you got burnout? How to cope with Your 2023 deserves We have answers your irritant sibling a trampoline Page 48 Page 50 Page 53 m ove Get your (booze-free) buzz on Love party season, hate the hangover? We road-tested the tipples promising all the fun with none of the next-day nastiness... PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY C O M P I L E D B Y: J E N N I F E R S AV I N C o s m o p o l i ta n 45
M OV E B o oze - f re e b u z z 1 Sobriety and mindful drinking have never been (a) more mainstream or (b) easier to stay on track with, thanks to a plethora of alcohol-free drink launches, new apps, events and sober influencers. But while a 0% beer may taste decent, it still lacks a certain… something. Enter: a new range of tipples hitting the market, promising to give you the same energy levels and dance moves as a glass of fizz (or those drowsy nightcap feels), minus the hangover and morning-after paranoia. Sound tempting? We tested them out. 1. THE TIPPLE ON TRIAL Three Spirit’s Nightcap, £24.99 for a 50cl bottle THE COSMO TESTER Maddy Alford, shopping editor WHAT AND WHEN Sipped two before bed THE RESULT ‘I’m terrible at falling asleep, and I’ve tried various methods with little to no improvement. So, when Three Spirit’s Nightcap promised a natural ‘calm, dreamy feeling,’ I was intrigued. I gave it a whirl one weeknight when my brain was doing its chaotic ping through my to-do list. I poured out the recommended 50ml over ice and curled up on the sofa. The initial whiff of aromatic spices and citrus herbs almost tricked my brain into thinking it was actual 46 C o s m o p o l i ta n booze. The flavour is rich and spiced, like a hot toddy but with a bitter edge. A bit medicinal, but I was into it. It contains ‘adaptogenic ashwagandha, therapeutic terpenes and valerian root’ – herbal remedies believed to aid relaxation. Natural remedies aren’t my thing, so I was surprised when, 45 minutes later, I felt hazy. When my partner got home, I drank another glass while we chatted. Afterwards, I felt as though I’d taken a sleeping pill so I went to bed. I woke up once in the night but conked straight back out. The next day, I felt like I’d had a deep slumber. Ace for anyone who leans on booze for sleep. And totally buying for Christmas presents. 2. THE TIPPLE ON TRIAL Blurred Vines’ Sharp, £16.99 for a bottle THE COSMO TESTER Jennifer Savin, features editor WHAT AND WHEN Drank a bottle on a night out… THE RESULT These days, after a full-on week, Friday nights are reserved for just chilling. (Saturdays are all about socialising.) But in the spirit of testing Blurred Vines’ Sharp, an alternative to white wine that claims to be ‘bursting with electrolytes, amino acids and vitamin D for an invigorating dose of liquid sunshine’, I decided to rope a pal into hitting our local club on a Friday – despite being so tired I was practically drooling when I clocked off from work. After a glass and some tunes, I was getting in the mood. By the end of the bottle (which has a pleasantly sharp, dry taste, unlike a lot of the overly sugary alcoholfree wines I’ve tried), I was unstoppable. When we made it to the club at midnight, I hit a second wave and danced until 2am. I clocked up more than 6,000 steps on my FitBit from my enthusiastic moves to trashy 80s pop – quite the turnaround for someone who’d been fantasising about crawling under a blanket and bingeing The Kardashians. Though not cheap, Sharp warranted a strong thumbs up from me, especially when I woke up hangover-free and ready to go again.
M OV E B o oze - f re e b u z z 2 4 3. THE TIPPLE ON TRIAL 3 Bonbuz alcohol-free functional spirit, £42.49 for a 750ml bottle THE COSMO TESTER Catriona Innes, commissioning director WHAT AND WHEN Two on a Monday night THE RESULT This bottle is designed for ‘alchohol-free stimulation’, with nootropics to boost mood and relaxation and amino acids for ‘social hype and lucid connections’. My first trial was at a festival. To counteract its bitterness, I had mine with soda and elderflower. It was a great way to kick things off, but any buzz I experienced could be attributed to being surrounded by friends and great music, so I decided to try it out in a much more challenging second setting: at home on a Monday night. It was surprisingly effective. Bonbuz curiously warns consumers not to have more than four drinks in 24 hours, but after two, I was dancing around the kitchen anyway, so decided that was enough. As for any lingering effects? Absolutely none. Alcoholfree alternatives can leave me with a sugar hangover, but this is sugar-free, so I even made it to my 6.45am exercise class with ease. Oh, and smashed a PB! 4. THE TIPPLE ON TRIAL Sentia, £29.50 for a 50cl bottle THE COSMO TESTER Alice Snape, contributing editor WHAT AND WHEN Drank a couple while getting ready for a festival THE RESULT I love a pre-drink, but my days of downing a bottle of cava before leaving the house are numbered. I can’t hack it – the memory blanks and gnawing hangxiety – no thanks. But I still want to *feel* something when I go out out... could a plant-based, alcohol-free spirit hold the answer? Sentia seems legit. I completely trust its creator, neuropsychopharmacologist (pause for breath) David Nutt, who literally specialises in how drugs affect us, and Sentia has been scientifically designed with a mix of botanicals to get you to that ‘two-drink sweet spot’ by accessing receptors in your brain. You know, the ones that make you feel sociable and relaxed but, crucially, not irritable and hungover – ideal scenario, right? I put it to the ultimate test while getting ready to go to my first day festival in actual years. Disclaimer: I’m a sensitive soul who’s tipsy after one glass of wine. But I defs felt a vibe shift – chatty, giddy, fuzzy inside and super-sexy in my festival sparkles. The smell is musty floral – like the waft of your bedroom when you’ve burned incense. You can drink it straight, but I mixed a shot with lemonade poured over ice (it’s also nice with tonic, FYI), making it taste like a light mulled wine – so it’s perf for festive drinks, too. It’s a grower but after two, I’m a convert. I’ll be swapping some of my usual Christmas fizz for this. C o s m o p o l i ta n 47
M OV E H a ve I g ot b u r n o u t ? Is this what burnout feels like? And what the hell do I even do about that? WORDS: HAN NAH S MOTH E RS START It’s Sunday night and you have work in the morning. How’s your mood? A bit down, but mostly fine. Just the usual total dread. C o s m o p o l i ta n Recharged for sure. Yes. Hyped! Is that weird? 48 Over the past couple of years, have you taken on a caregiver role in addition to your actual job? How did you feel when you came back from your last holiday? No, thankfully. Okay, but then overwhelmed again.
M OV E Does work ever feel like an escape from your home life? How did you know??? Can’t say I need an escape. When you wake up at 3am, what’s on your mind? Calls I ignored, a thing I said to my boss last week, my mum… I need to pee. C H a ve I g ot b u r n o u t ? When you feel overwhelmed, is there someone you lean on? No, because everyone I know is also stressed. I have a solid support system. What are you doing this weekend? Do you often feel pressure to go to the pub? How often do you consider throwing your phone into a body of water? Sleeping or a mountain of chores. All the damn time. Laundry, book club, pasta! I don’t have to be pressured! Every. Day. Mondays only. A B What’s your inbox like? It’s Friday and your people want to gather. Are you in? Of course! When was the last time you unplugged and rested? One or two unread messages, but I’ll get to ’em. I can’t even talk about it. I’m ‘feeling sick’. Earlier this week. C I took a day off last month. What counts as rest? A PHOTOGRAPHY: ABDULLA ELMAZ B A: Yes. Yes, it is. B: Not exactly, but it’s close. C: Nope! Definitely not. It’s not an actual medical condition, but burnout, caused by chronic stress, can make you feel lethargic, antisocial, irritable or like it’s really hard to get out of bed. Powering through will just prolong or worsen symptoms. It’s essential to deal with the root of the problem via your GP and, ideally, a supportive boss. As you work on that, try to get more sleep and give friends a heads-up on your mental state and that you’re trying to dig your way out of it. So, stressful work and/or home stuff has you feeling like you need to regroup, eh? Your burnout prevention plan: spend time defining your priorities (yours, not what your boss or family or partner thinks), and list them. If the word ‘rest’ isn’t at the top, put it there (FYI, going for a walk or watching TV counts). Now, give the full list a scan and ask yourself, ‘Which of these are missing from my life lately?’ Then adjust your schedule accordingly. Are you teaching online courses? Because I’ll enrol immediately. Somehow, you made it through ‘These Times’ in a solid headspace, and we should all applaud you for that. Healthy habits like prioritising rest, avoiding work-related stuff after hours, taking time off to have fun or being honest when your diary is too full are probably helping. Putting these behaviours in place now – and trusting that they’re worth it – makes you close to indestructible. C o s m o p o l i ta n 49
M OV E Fre e t h e ra py I dread going home because my brother is a manchild Old sibling rivalries die hard. Good thing our advice columnist, therapist Minaa B, is here to help you cope I L L U S T R AT I O N : M E R E D I T H SCHOMBURG 50 C o s m o p o l i ta n Dear Minaa, I recently went home for my middle sister’s birthday party and couldn’ t shake the feeling that my older brother still acts like a teenager – and treats me like I’m still one, too. (For the record, he’s 27 and I’m 22.) Just one example: in the middle of the party, he put me in a headlock. He also called me by my childhood nickname the entire time. No matter how much I avoid or ignore him, he’s constantly trying to bring me down to his level with remarks like, ‘Do mum and dad know you’re drinking now?’ (again, I’m 22) and, ‘Still want me to turn the lights on in the basement before you go down there?’ He also leaves dirty dishes around the house for my mum to clean up and, when she asked him to help set up for my sister’s party, he did the bare minimum, opting to spend most of the morning watching sports from the living room sofa. Yet, somehow, my parents don’ t seem fazed that he hasn’ t shed his sixth form-esque party persona. He still lives rent-free at home and relies heavily on them for financial support. Meanwhile, although I’m the youngest child, I have a career, a flat and a life of my own. Yet... I’m still practically a baby in his eyes – and it’s starting to mess with how I see myself. What’s it going to take for him to finally grow up and treat me as a fully functioning adult?
Dear reader, It’s possible that your brother does recognise that you’re an adult. But as an older sibling, he may still think of you a certain way, kind of like how a parent might say, ‘You’ll always be my baby.’ When we’re kids, the people that take care of us – including siblings – often dictate most of our choices. And as we grow up, it can be hard for those same people to see us as peers. Your brother may think he’s just being playful with his little sis in the way he’s always been. Have you clearly communicated that you don’t like the way he treats you? Ignoring him isn’t enough – you have to say it explicitly. Try speaking up – in language that makes sense in terms of how you two usually engage – by starting with something like, ‘Hey, this really isn’t funny.’ However, you choose to phrase it, your message should boil down to, ‘I don’t like this.’ Once you explain what your boundaries are, don’t be afraid to repeat them consistently so he can get into the habit of recognising that you’re serious. If he apologises and changes his ways, great. If he doesn’t seem to get it, try asking him to reflect, ‘Why are you surprised by me acting like an adult?’ If that still doesn’t work, and you get the sense he doesn’t have the emotional maturity to be understanding, that’s where consequences come into play. You can determine what you need to do to feel comfortable around him. If that doesn’t work, time apart is an option. Of course, there’s another emotional side to this, especially since it sounds like complex family dynamics are involved. It could be that you’re also experiencing resentment towards your brother for doing the bare minimum while you have a full life that’s going unrecognised – and yet you’re still expected to help out at home. Ask yourself: do you feel unseen by your parents? Do you feel like your bids for attention and praise are overshadowed by his constant babying of you? While your brother is leaving dirty dishes around and kicking his feet up, what are you supposed to be doing? The important thing to remember here is that you can’t control others – you can’t dictate your brother’s growth and his failure to launch has no bearing on you. What you can control is what your boundaries are. It is possible to accept that your brother’s immature tendencies and actions aren’t a personal attack – they are simply a reflection of him and his current journey. Coming to terms with this can help you move from a place of annoyance to radical acceptance and, ultimately, peace. His circumstances and the qualities he lacks aren’t your responsibility. Rather, you should focus on being the adult you’d like to be seen as. Your way ahead is to drop the belief that your brother should know better. And remember that maturity looks like speaking up and stating your needs – not just your accomplishments and successes. ‘Your way ahead is to drop the belief that he should know better’ MINAA B IS A THERAPIST, SPEAKER AND FOUNDER OF MINAA B. CONSULTING, WHERE SHE WORKS WITH PROFESSIONALS ON WORKPLACE BOUNDARIES. SHE’S CO-HOST OF PODCAST, BECAUSE LIFE, AND SITS ON THE MENTAL HEALTH ADVISORY COMMITTEE FOR WONDERMIND, CO-FOUNDED BY SELENA GOMEZ C o s m o p o l i ta n 51

M OV E FREEPORT PARK SEMAJ ROUND TRAMPOLINE, £129.99, WAYFAIR.CO.UK Tr y b efo re yo u t ra i n HOMCOM BETHANEY 3’ ROUND FITNESS TRAMPOLINE, £45.99, WAYFAIR.CO.UK Assembly took less than five mins (win!), so I put on an episode of Friends and bounced away. By the end, I’d almost forgotten I was doing any exercise (win win!). The bar height is adjustable, but I removed it completely. The size was larger than I’d expected, so check if you’re short on space. Jade, features writer I loved trampolining in PE at school. Sadly, the size didn’t allow for seat drops, but I was surprised by how many exercises I could do. Alongside regular jumping, it’s sturdy enough to use for press-ups and crunches. It’s easy to carry, and it folds up when I’m not using it. Hanna, deputy beauty editor DECATHLON FITNESS TRAMPOLINE FIT TRAMPO 500, £99.99 HOMCOM 48” MINI TRAMPOLINE WITH ADJUSTABLE HANDLE, £69.99, ROBERTDYAS.CO.UK This was perfect for the Bounce and Burn class I did via Frame, and it’s super quiet, so I didn’t disturb my neighbours (or my boyfriend). After a struggle with the instructions, the build was fairly straightforward. It’s now in the corner of my kitchen, so I can bounce while the kettle boils.’ Jaime, digital design editor Assembly was a challenge. You have to pull the base on to hooks, using bungee cords. My broken nails aren’t happy. But as soon as I began to jump, Shania Twain blasting out, it was worth it. Cardio that can be slotted into my day. Catriona, commissioning director Try before you train PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES GIELMIY FITNESS 48” MINI TRAMPOLINE, £69.99, AMAZON.CO.UK The initial set-up was a workout in itself, but I loved doing YouTube aerobics classes to funky tunes in the safety of my living room. Great for a midday energy boost on those weekdays working at home, where I do more sitting than I’d like. Courtney, fashion assistant Trampolines Want to inject some fun into your fitness routine? The team test out trampolines to see if they’ll boost your at-home workouts or just upset the neighbours... CLORIS 40” FOLDABLE FITNESS TRAMPOLINE, £59.99, AMAZON.CO.UK This was as easy to set up as an Ikea flat-pack – just unfold and add the legs and bar. Running isn’t for me, nor is the gym, so with this and a cracking playlist, I was motivated. It’s smaller than I’d expected, but with limited space at home, I can’t complain. Lia, beauty assistant C o s m o p o l i ta n 53

Are your group chats How to Upgrade your taking over your life? cancel plans hot chocolate Page 57 Page 58 Page 59 re l a x Food tastes better on a stick and these snacks are proof *Adds cute skewers to shopping list* WORDS: HANNAH CHUBB P H O T O G R A P H Y: C O DY G U I L F OY L E C o s m o p o l i ta n 55
1 RELAX St i c k w i t h i t 6 With snacks like these, who needs a main course? 2 5 3 YOU HEARD IT HERE FIRST SWEET PEACH Grill a few fresh slices of peach, then stack them with creamy burrata, a ripe cherry tomato and a single basil leaf to help bring this salty-sweet caprese full circle. 1. 56 C o s m o p o l i ta n BREAKFAST BITE Think of this treat as a mini breakfast sandwich minus the bagel. All you need is smoked salmon, cucumber, tomato, cream cheese and a teensy little caper. 2. 3. CAKE POP Prep the ripest fruit you can find – strawberries, raspberries and blueberries are welcome here – and spear with a cold chunk of cheesecake (shopbought is fine). 4. CHOCO CHURROS Procure some mini churros from the frozen aisle. Pop ’em in the oven, add some cinnamon sugar, and drizzle your new fave dessert with chocolate sauce. SAUCY SNACK Alternate mini meatballs, mozzarella and basil leaves, then top with a plop of marinara for a mini meal that tastes just as good as your go-to Italian takeaway order. 5. SWEET ’N’ SALTY Oh, this? The one that’s cut out for breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. Pair cantaloupe or honeydew melon with prosciutto, cheddar and a balsamic glaze. 6. PROP STYLING: GÖZDE EKER. FOOD STYLING: HADAS SMIRNOFF 2023 is the year of the finger food. And lucky for you, these two-bite beauties are beyond easy to assemble, allowing you to officially claim your title as Host of the Friend Group. 4
RELAX G ro u p c h a t s You + your group chat Party season = peak WhatsApp overwhelm, amirite? Here’s how you feel about it* WORDS: ANNABEL IWEGBUE How many long-term group chats are you currently in? And how many people are in most of them? 6 3 % 2 to 5 5 6 % About 3 or 4 2 2 % More than 5 3 9 % 5 to 10 1 5% Just 1! 5% More than 10 What platform do you usually use? What type of group chatter are you? 8 8% WhatsApp 5 4% Not posting 24/7, 6 % Facebook but being part of the convo 4% Instagram, Twitter or something else 2 % Text messaging 17 % I’m definitely more of a lurker 1 5% The ‘haha’ PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES; STOCKSY *ACCORDING TO A COSMO UK POLL OF 1,000 READERS. reactor = me 14% Super active with the plans and memes Does the ease of group chats make you less likely to set up in-person plans? 72 % No, I still really value in-person meet-ups 24% Sometimes... 4% It makes me In general, do group chats simplify or complicate your friendships? 5 9 % Simplify – they’re a good way to merge convos 27 % I don’t feel that they affect my friendships that much 14% They do tend to invite unnecessary drama less motivated to hang out IRL Have you actually met all the people in your chats in person? Do you have any close friends who are not in one of your group chats? 87 % Yep, almost all 6 0 % Yes! And it’s are my IRL friends refreshing 11% Most – the occasional person I’ve never met 2 3 % Nope, my 2 % I’m in 1+ chats 17 % Yes, and it can with people I’ve only met online be hard to keep up separately friends are all in the same chats Finally, what’s your overall take on chats? 5 3 % They’re fun but not essential 3 5% They’re life-saving 12% They kind of stress me out C o s m o p o l i ta n 57
RELAX C a n c e l yo u r p l a n s Drinks are calling your name, but so is the sofa... but drinks... but... sofa. Home is where your heart (and joggers and Netflix) is WORDS: CAROLINE MOSS Raise your hand if this sounds familiar: it’s a Tuesday morning in December and you’ve just finished your second coffee. You’re on top of the world because you’ve finally hit inbox zero and it looks like you’ll be able to head out of work at a reasonable hour. Hell. Yes. Around lunchtime, a friend messages you, ‘Festive drinks tonight?’ and you automatically reply, ‘Yes!!!’ But come 5.30pm, your energy has waned and all you want to do is unhook your bra, watch a true-crime doc and eat a tin of Quality Street. You have options: you can say you feel sick (an obvious lie we’ve all used), you can say 58 C o s m o p o l i ta n you got slammed with a lastmin project (less obvious but still overused), or you could rally and go meet your mate even though you might be a bit miserable (a fave option for people pleasers.) But many overlook the underutilised fourth option: simply telling the truth. Yes, you can actually be honest without ruining anyone’s Christmas – you just need to know how. Narrate your flakiness Let’s say you’re wiped and you just want to be on the sofa with your internet boyfriend, Noah Centineo. Try texting your friend something like: ‘Hey... I was in a different ‘Many overlook the underutilised fourth option’ Regardless, they’ll appreciate that they’re not being both cancelled on and lied to. Reschedule like a realist If you insist on rescheduling right after you cancel, pick a date when your calendar looks particularly chill. You know, January? It’s easy to throw out the promise of another meet-up to solve your current sitch, but you’ll make your life messier if you have to bail again. If you realise you don’t actually want to see them, skip the whole ‘let’s get together next time’ BS completely. Know when to suck it up Some things you can’t skip – ever. Bailing on intimate gatherings with head counts, weddings and hen dos is what’s known in the flaking community as a friendshipender. But if you really, really can’t make it, make sure you RSVP your ‘nope!’ ASAP. Just don’t do that thing where you say you’re in and then secretly plot a day-before exit strategy. (PSA: If social anxiety’s the issue, that’s totally understandable – let’s face it, party season can be actual hell. Give the organiser a heads up that you’ll have to see how you feel on the day and hope they can be flexible. Try and keep your social schedule low-key so you can summon the power to attend the few things you really want to try to make.) And if you do say yes to your cousin’s Christmas do, at least there’s likely to be Baileys. PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY Your official guide to cancelling plans headspace when I agreed to meet up. This day has totally zapped me and all I can think about is going home and not moving for the rest of the night. Rain check?’ Chances are, they’ll totally understand –maybe they’ll even breathe a sigh of relief because they wanted to cancel too. December can be a lot.
RELAX N o - r u l e s re c i p e s These hot chocolate upgrades could change your life Or at least make the dark and rainy evenings a bit more bearable WO RDS: J O E Y S KL ADANY P H O T O G R A P H Y: C H E L S I E C R A I G I’m going to go ahead and assume you’re familiar with the beverage that makes cold weather feel like you imagined it back in August and not like it actually is. So I can cut right to it: regular old hot chocolate is even better with a few tiny tweaks. If you’re thinking, ‘Oh! With alcohol?’ You are correct. But if you’re thinking, ‘Aha! With sweets!’ You are also correct. Join me on this incredibly rewarding journey. 1. 1 2 3 MAKE IT DESSERT Dip the rim of your mug in icing, crush up some Oreos and dunk your rim into the Oreos. 2. MAKE IT SPICY Add in a square of dark choc, a dash of cinnamon powder, some vanilla extract and a pinch of chilli powder. Top with marshmallows and a cinnamon stick. 3. MAKE IT MINTY Stir in a few pieces of Peppermint Aero and garnish with a toothpick packed with chocolate pieces and a fresh mint leaf. PROP STYLING: BETH PAKRADOONI. FOOD STYLING: JUDY KIM 4. 4 MAKE IT COLD Add hot chocolate powder, milk and ice to a blender. Blend until smooth and top with whipped cream. 5. MAKE IT COMPLEX Steep some chai tea in a quarter of a mug’s worth of hot water, then combine with your hot cocoa. 6. MAKE IT BOOZY Add a shot of Irish cream, coffee liqueur, peppermint vodka or cinnamon schnapps. C o s m o p o l i ta n 59

Love Fashion Homeware Page 62 Wellness Page 64 Page 63 Page 65 g i ve P H O T O G R A P H Y: S U N L E E 1 2 Beauty These treats are giving real ‘main present’ energy 3 4 FLOWERS, COURTESY BLOOM & WILD; CHAMPAGNE SAUCER, COURTESY OLIVER BONAS 5 6 7 8 9 10 1. The Luxury Brush Set, £82, Bobbi Brown 2. Honey Bee Wash Bag, £40, Elizabeth Scarlett 3. Pillow Talk Beautifying Face Palette in Medium/Deep, £60, Charlotte Tilbury 4. La Vie Est Belle L’éveil Refillable Eau De Parfum (50ml), £83, Lancôme 5. 70g Scented Candle in Neige, £38, Diptyque 6. Grand-Luxe Gold Styler, £189, GHD 7. Coco Mademoiselle Pearly Body Gel, £85, Chanel 8. Cosmopolitan Eau De Juice Extra Concentrated Eau De Parfum (50ml), £29.50, thefragranceshop.co.uk 9. Lash Clash Mascara, £29, YSL 10. Vernis Top Coat Nail Lacquer in 309 Cosmic, £25.50, Dior C o s m o p o l i ta n 61
GIVE Love Love Hot gifts for cold nights 1 2 4 5 6 1. Alma Graphic Lace Underwire Bra, £65, Dora Larsen 2. So Divine Amour Lipstick Vibrator, £30, Feel Unique 3. Furry handcuffs, £9.99, Love Honey 4. Aesop Breathless Body Oil, £27, Net-A-Porter 5. The Poet suction toy, £119.95, Smile Makers 6. Feather tickler, £6.99, Love Honey Unlined Corded Lace Teddy, £45, Victoria’s Secret 62 C o s m o p o l i ta n Sexy Truth Or Dare, £13.99, WH Smith Ignite Finger Vibrator, £32.99, Love Honey Desire: 100 Of Literature’s Sexiest Stories, £18, Waterstones Pro 1+ Vibrator, £58.95, Satisfyer Sila Clitoral Massager, £159, Lelo FLOWERS, COURTESY BLOOM & WILD; GLASS BOX AND GOLD TRAY, COURTESY H&M HOME; GIN GLASS AND VASE, COURTESY OLIVER BONAS 3
GIVE Homeware H o m ewa re Turn your place into a palace 1 2 3 4 5 CAKE STAND, COURTESY H&M HOME 6 1. Monstera in ceramic pot, £33, John Lewis 2. Striped candles, set of six, £28, Anthropologie 3. Glass lamp, £185, Oliver Bonas 4. Gin glasses, set of four, £51, iamfy.co 5. Candle holder, £13, Sass & Belle 6. Matches, £7.95, lilyking.co.uk The Rooney Chair, £269.99, CosmoLiving at Wayfair Get Your Shit Together by David Shrigley, £26, Waterstones Slippers, £33, Not On The High Street Velvetiser, £99.95, Hotel Chocolat Glass Mug, £40, iamfy.co Print, from £45, John Lewis C o s m o p o l i ta n 63
GIVE Fa s h i o n Fashion Meet your wardrobe wish list 1 4 5 3 1. Boots, £160, Ariat 2. Bag, £59.99, Zara 3. Scarf, £135, Ganni 4. Sunglasses, £50, Le Specs 5. Hair bow, £24, Free People 4 Coat, £109, Wallis 64 C o s m o p o l i ta n Earrings, £90, Pandora Top, £59.99, Mango Bracelet, £77, Hey Harper Mules, £29.99, H&M Ring, £199, Missoma FLOWERS, COURTESY BLOOM & WILD; CANDLESTICK, COURTESY H&M HOME; DECANTER & TUMBLER SET, VASE AND TRAY, COURTESY OLIVER BONAS 2
GIVE Wellness We l l n e s s For goal-getters and ‘one more rep’-ers 1 3 FLOWERS, COURTESY BLOOM & WILD; VASE, COURTESY OLIVER BONAS; GOLD DISH, COURTESY H&M HOME 2 4 5 1. Bum bag, £35, Eastpak 2. Kettlebell, from £20, kettleboobs.co.uk 3. Shoes, £345, Ganni 4. Apple Watch SE, £259, apple.com/uk5. Urbanista Miami Wireless Over Ear Bluetooth Headphones, £129, Amazon 5 Swim cap, £6.50, Speedo Shorts, £50, Everlane Ski goggles, £151, Oakley Resistance band set, £20, Sweaty Betty Bala Bangles, £50, Free People Trainers, £150, Veja C o s m o p o l i ta n 65
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While you’ve been doing your thing, Lindsay Lohan has been quietly vision-boarding her way right into the most prolific years of her life—and now, she’s ready to talk about them I NTE RVI EW: MADE LE I N E FR AN K RE EVE S P H O T O G R A P H Y: E L L E N V O N U N W E R T H FA S H I O N : C A S S I E A N D E R S O N
o, listen. I could start by telling you how I grew up with Lindsay Lohan. How I can chart my entire childhood by which of her classic films was playing in the background (The Parent Trap as I processed my own parents’ divorce; Freaky Friday, their second marriages; Mean Girls while I figured out what the actual hell high school was). But I won’t, because every girl born within a decade of the now-36-year-old actor has some version of the same story—at least one film from LiLo’s decades-deep career that’s sat with them in a personality-forming way. And, of course, some narrative they’ve crafted in their mind about the nature of her celebrity and what she’s like as a person all this time later. I’m going to focus instead on the now, because Lindsay is right here in front of me in the iconically freckled flesh. She’s come all the way from her home in Dubai to shoot a cover story that’s a very big deal for obvious reasons. Getting the famously private star – so private that she moved to Dubai because paparazzi are illegal there – to sit down for a candid interview has been a feat nearly a year in the making. And we have a lot of new ground to cover. For one, she’s getting ready for the premiere of her Netflix movie Falling For Christmas (out now), to be followed by two more films in a multi-picture deal that promises the return of the romcom queen we all love. Also on the long list of roles she’s currently juggling: executive producer of those Netflix movies, podcast host ( The Lohdown With Lindsay Lohan), narrator of the Amazon Prime reality dating show Lovestruck High, newlywed... you get the idea. The internet is cheering for a ‘Lohan-aissance’ for a reason. And in the surprisingly intimate, barefaced moments before she steps in front of the camera, Lindsay seems pretty happy about it, too. She’s perched on a glam chair at the Roxy Hotel in New York, sipping an iced matcha, surrounded by her team. There’s publicist Leslie Sloane (they’ve been together since The Parent Trap), hairstylist DJ Quintero, make-up artist Kristofer Buckle, manicurist Elle Gerstein and Netflix rep Shannon Skoczylas. As they flutter around fielding calls, working out logistics and wielding brushes of all kinds, Lindsay speaks to me with the unhurried thoughtfulness of someone who knows 68 C o s m o p o l i ta n how easily her words could be twisted and misconstrued into inaccurate clickbait – how easily, how often they have been. She’s guarded but still quick to share a laugh. (I’m never quite sure whether I’m in on the joke or just, ever so frustratingly, outside of it.) It’s a striking combination of the weariness that comes from a lifetime of sharing herself with the world and a deep-in-her-bones excitement for what’s to come. Her favourite year of her life, she writes in her Cosmo Quiz (page 5)? This one. I don’t want to get in the way – please keep doing whatever you need to while we talk. Kris, you two have worked together for a long time, right? KRISTOFER BUCKLE1: What was the first time, when you were 16? LINDSAY LOHAN: Sixteen. I think it might have been for Confessions [Of A Teenage Drama Queen]. Mean Girls was after, then we did SNL [Saturday Night Live] and all that. KB: I remember on SNL, she was going through a real selftanner phase. The old-school lighting guy was like, ‘She’s too tan! She’s too tan!’ We did a million things together. She was a new starlet and at that age where make-up was becoming more important. And she was always having fun with it and always had an opinion. LL: Always more contour. 1. For the uninitiated: on a scale of pretty cool to genuinely major, Kristofer Buckle is somewhere off the charts. Other people who trust him with their faces: Mariah Carey, Blake Lively and Jessica Chastain.
Previous spread: dress, Anthony Vaccarello at Albright Fashion Library; ring (left), Chopard; ring (right, worn throughout) Lindsay’s own. This page: dress, Adriana Degreas; bandeau, Skims; briefs, Chantelle; sandals Pīferi; earrings, Sauer; ring, Chopard C o s m o p o l i ta n 69
KB: She knew what she wanted to look like. She had a very strong vision for herself. And she was always a bit ahead of the curve with glam. Even before the whole glowy skin thing, she was like, ‘I want it to be shinier.’ What’s your skincare like now? LL: I’m big on non-intrusive facial experiences, anything I can do. I love lasers. I just started Morpheus8 [a micro-needling treatment], which I’m obsessed with. Oh, god. I just did that and it was the most painful thing, like rubber bands snapping actual fire into my face. I was sitting there the whole time like, ‘Is this really what I’m willing to do for beauty?’ KB: It’s always worth it. LL: Here’s the trick: You have to ask them to give you the numbing cream ahead of time and put it on yourself at home an hour before you go. It’s always nice in the age of filtered selfies to dig into what really goes into getting camera-ready. LL: Right, because we only ever know what we see on the screen. We don’t know what’s happening behind it. LL: You have to take everything people say with a grain of salt What are your feelings about social media? LL: I don’t even know. There’s too much of it. No, it is nice. Because now I feel like... when I first started out in the business, none of us had a say in how to control our own narrative. There were paparazzi pictures, and then people ran with it. So I think it’s really good that in this day and age, people can say who they are and who they want to be. And I admire and appreciate that. I’m a little jealous because I didn’t have that. But I think it moves really fast and I just try to keep up as best I can. And I check everything before I post it. I’ll send it to people. Because you have to. There’s that positive element of having more control over the narrative but also the difficulties of trolls or having the pressure of potentially messing up on such a massive scale. 70 C o s m o p o l i ta n and just be you. And slow down, because everyone’s so quick right now. People just don’t stop. You’ve got to chill. If people were to see the real Lindsay on a random night at home in Dubai, what would that look like? LL: I cook a lot. I follow this @EatingHealthyToday Instagram and they do these really great healthy meals. I cook a lot of Italian. I do a lot of pastas. I do a lot of an Arabic dish called machboos. It’s chicken with rice and vegetables. I do a really good borscht soup. I also go to bed really early – 9.30pm. Do you sleep well? LL: Yes, except when I got here to New York. I think it was because of anxiousness about getting up on time. But I need my seven to eight hours of sleep. When I’m filming, I can get away
Dress, Valentino at New York Vintage; sandals, Giuseppe Zanotti; earrings, two-finger ring, Ara Vartanian; ring, Chopard great buzz. Was the opportunity an easy yes for you? LL: It was really comforting to me, when I got the script, to see a movie that was a romcom2 because it’s always fun to work on something lighthearted and familyoriented that makes people happy and provides a bit of an escape. And I was excited to kind of come back, to do something with Netflix, which is a big family in a way. It was the right fit for me, especially to be able to executive produce it. I think people always wonder: what exactly does ‘executive producing’ really mean? LL: It’s a really different role that I get to play aside from just starring in the movie. It’s being involved in the projects at every step: the whole casting process, the editing and production process. And even parts of the script. So as you’re shooting, if something’s not working, you’re helping to rewrite it? LL: Yeah, and working on the costumes and the wardrobe and the character development, too. with six sometimes if we have really early calls, but I like my sleep and feel better when I get it. So your days are really packed right now with work. How are you feeling through it all? LL: Really good. I’m really excited. It’s fun to be back in New York and doing shoots. And I love this part of the process. After you’ve filmed, this is the fun part. So I feel really great and just really excited and happy. Is it hard to balance your time when you’re back here? LL: Well, the first thing I like to do is see my niece, because she’s the cutest thing ever. I always spend time with family. I go to a few specific restaurants. Visit Central Park. And always work. This deal you have with Netflix has been getting so much Interesting. I’m curious about how you approach your acting at this point in your career, when you’ve been doing it since you were five years old. LL: It’s always evolving. It comes very naturally to me to play a role, especially in a romantic comedy, so it doesn’t always feel like work. But when you really look at the character and how much more you can give people on-screen through the character’s eyes, there’s so much to play with and change. With this movie, I specifically wanted to do more physical comedy because I missed doing that. And I was like, ‘We’re here, why not? I’m willing to do it.’ I think the bigger you go in those situations, the better it is. You can’t be afraid of it. And then for the next one,3 I wanted to play a different kind of character, more nerdy. 2. The plot? Lindsay plays a newly engaged heiress who has amnesia after a skiing accident. A handsome local man takes her into his care and... well, it’s a romcom – you can imagine the rest. 3. Irish Wish, which she’s filming this autumn. C o s m o p o l i ta n 71
‘I’M THE KIND OF PERSON WHO WA N T S T O D O I T A L L AG A I N B U T 1 0 T I M E S B E T T E R’ If you were to think of the movie version of your own life so far, what would be the big, pivotal moments that punctuate it? What memories come to mind as particularly meaningful? LL: The first time I hosted Saturday Night Live. That was a big moment for me. And then when I hosted the MTV Movie Awards, those were both really big moments for me. But I think when you’re in it, it doesn’t hit you. And I never thought I would say this, but as you get older in life,4 you look back on those things and you’re like, ‘Did I really do that? Oh my gosh, I really did all that stuff,’ which is a really cool feeling in the end. And I’m the kind of person who now wants to do it again but 10 times better. What does 10 times better look like? LL: Different awards. SNL again, obviously. And roles that I haven’t been able to play. I haven’t done an action film. I really want to do something like that.5 There are other things I can’t say. They’re on my vision board. It’s really striking when studying your body of work to realise that you must have been working constantly for a large chunk of your childhood. Did you ever find yourself thinking, ‘I need a break?’6 LL: Yeah, and you can take breaks, but you just have to know when the time is right. Because it’s also good to keep the pace going. You become a family when you’re on a set, and then when the project wraps, it just stops. So it’s like culture shock – you don’t know what to do with yourself. It’s good to have things to keep your mind active. And it also helps to keep in touch with all those people, which I do. Like [ Parent Trap director and co-writer] Nancy Meyers and her daughters, we’re all really close. You’ve worked with so many of the absolute biggest names in the industry – is there anyone you interact with professionally or otherwise who you get nervous around? LL: Al Pacino.7 I have actually asked him for a lot of advice for a lot of things, especially work-wise and just life-wise, because he’s a great person to talk to. Recently, I was at a restaurant in San Francisco with my husband and his family, and all of a sudden, this waiter was bringing our food to a different table, or I thought he was... I was like, ‘Oh no, he’s taking that to the other table,’ and then I realised he was blocking a paparazzi flash. And so when he came by, I go, ‘Oh, thank you so much for doing that.’ And he goes, ‘Oh. No, I wasn’t blocking it for you. Al Pacino’s here.’ I went to say hi. I don’t get nervous talking to him on the phone, but I was nervous this time. And I was like, ‘Is it okay if we take a picture? We need to photograph this moment.’ 72 C o s m o p o l i ta n What’s the best advice he has given you? LL: He always says, ‘Focus on your craft when it comes to your work.’ And I think that’s really important. Don’t let other outside things blur your vision. It seems like you’re trying a lot of new skills these days – like with your podcast, where you bring on guests who are experts in all sorts of different fields, from YouTuber Gigi Gorgeous to Salt-N-Pepa. You’re quite a good interviewer. LL: Thank you, because I still get nervous. I’m so used to being asked the questions, so it’s very different for me to have to ask the questions. Usually, I know the person. I like to just keep it very lighthearted and very friendly because that’s more interesting to me – the getting to know who someone really is. It’s not about all the gossipy stuff. There are definitely some good learnings and hacks from your guests, too, about success and self-care. What are your own non-negotiables when it comes to taking care of yourself? LL: Exercise. I love running on treadmills; it’s my favourite way to just release. And I meditate in the mornings. I meditate in the shower, actually. What about your support system? Are there certain people you always turn to? LL: Well, I have an amazing husband, who’s a very calm person.8 Just the best. And my family. And I feel like I have a small group of good friends who are just really good people. That’s the only support that I really need: friends, family and loved ones. 4. At this moment, she raises an eyebrow, pauses for laughs, and looks around the room. Like she said, she’s good at comedy. 5. Lindsay superfans might remember that she has, sort of, done an action film – or at least a trailer for a fake one. Remember how Cameron Diaz’s overachieving movie-trailer editor character in The Holiday splices together footage of Lindsay and James Franco’s upcoming ‘hit’? ‘We always said we should make that movie one day,’ Lindsay says. ‘I’m still waiting for Nancy Meyers to write it.’ 6. Lindsay’s publicist Leslie chimes in: ‘We had to throw her a Sweet 17 party because she never had a Sweet 16. She was on-set.’ 7. Yes, Lindsay and Al Pacino are friends. They connected in London in 2014 when she acted in the play Speed-the-Plow, written by his friend David Mamet, and he offered her advice for her pre- and post-show rituals. 8. Can confirm. Lindsay’s husband, Bader Shammas, has exceptionally chill energy. He quietly stopped by set midday with her brother Cody. Lindsay is resolute in keeping the details of their relationship private but occasionally slips in compliments about him on her podcast, where she’s said, ‘He is one of the wisest people I know and gives the most sound advice.’
Dress, Alexandre Vauthier; ring, Sauer
Do you feel like people are rooting for your success? LL: I feel everything’s very positive, and I like that. I want to keep that momentum. What about other hobbies outside of work? Do you collect anything? LL: Purses. Vintage clothing. And vintage jewellery, too, actually. If I see something, I’ll wait on it, and if I keep thinking about it a week, two weeks, three weeks later, then I will go get it. So I’m actually really good. I used to be like, get it right away. I used to be impulsive. I’m not any more.9 You’re about to be taking pictures all day, with all eyes on you. What’s going through your head right before that? LL: I kind of just immerse myself in it right away. It’s just like, something happens. And it’s always been like that with me. I just change. I get comfortable right away. The second I’m in front of the camera, everything else stops. What are you most proud of in this moment? LL: The future, I think. I’m excited for the future and I’m just proud of how everything’s coming together. 9. The waiting rule doesn’t seem to apply when the piece is just That Good – as was the case with an Alaïa bodysuit she bought right off the rack on-set to wear straight to dinner after the shoot. 74 C o s m o p o l i ta n FOR SHOPPING INFORMATION, GO TO COSMOPOLITAN.COM/UK Are those mostly industry friends or other people? LL: No, not industry friends. Totally separate.
This page: jacket, skirt, Christian Siriano; earrings, two-finger ring, Ara Vartanian; ring, Sauer. Opposite page: jumpsuit, Chanel at New York Vintage; heels, Roger Vivier; necklace, Tiffany & Co; ring, Melissa Kaye Hair: DJ Quintero for Living Proof at The Wall Group. Make-up: Kristofer Buckle at Crosby Carter Management. Manicure: Elle Gerstein at Crosby Carter Management. Props: Chelsea Maruskin at Art Department. Location: Roxy Cinema New York
! WARNING Contains descriptions of sexual assault and extreme language some might find upsetting 76 C o s m o p o l i ta n
The rise of the mega misogynists They make outrageous statements. They’re banned from social media. Yet, despite huge strides towards gender equality in some areas of society, a new breed of misogynist is thriving. Is it just that controversy sells, or is something more insidious going on? Harriet Hall enters their world to find out… I L L U S T R AT I O N : M I C H E L L E T H O M P S O N C o s m o p o l i ta n 77
was nowhere until he was everywhere. Over a few short, hectic weeks this summer, his name was searched more times than Donald Trump or Kim Kardashian. And then he disappeared. His stratospheric internet fame led to an outright blanket ban from almost all social media, with Facebook, Instagram, TikTok and YouTube all citing violations of their policies (Twitter had removed him some time earlier). The ex-Big Brother contestant turned self-appointed lifestyle guru finally appeared to fade into the digital ether. And now? Former kickboxing world champion Andrew Tate, a man who has been labelled ‘violently misogynistic’, is in my living room. Almost. We’re talking over Zoom; Tate is in an Airbnb – a reproduction of Michelangelo’s Creation Of Adam hangs on the wall behind him, forming the backdrop to our conversation, which returns to religion several times and how Tate moulds men in his image. He tells me no one wants to hear ‘his side’ of the story. I suspect much of the media doesn’t want to platform him – a consideration that the Cosmopolitan UK team debated in depth over the course of several days. But Tate already has global infamy, so we decided to speak to him. Not to boost his ego, or give air to his damaging views, but instead to find out why men like him thrive. Because, despite the outpouring of criticism directed at him, Tate still has an army of loyal fans. What does his influence mean to them? Could the men in our lives be among them? And what does his success say about society? I immersed myself in his world to find out. 78 C o s m o p o l i ta n Andrew Tate is nothing new. He slots neatly into a long line of men who have gained cult-like followings online, with content promising self-improvement and a community where men feeling confused or angry can vent and receive the validation they don’t feel they can find elsewhere. Tate is but one small part of the manosphere, a digital ecosystem that includes: pick-up artists (PUAs); involuntary celibates; men going their own way; and so-called ‘men’s rights activists’. Even if you’re not familiar with the manosphere, you’ve probably heard of at least one of its inhabitants. There’s Neil Strauss, and his bestseller The Game, which armed men with unscrupulous dating tactics such as ‘isolating the target’ and lowering women’s self-esteem by ‘negging’ them with backhanded compliments. It sold 2.5million copies. Strauss wasn’t the first PUA, but The Game brought the ‘art of seduction’ to the mainstream, so much so that negging and other tactics can still be spotted in action. Then there’s ‘dating coach’ Julien Blanc and ‘neo-masculinist’ Daryush Valizadeh (Roosh V) – who, in 2014 and 2016 respectively were the subjects of petitions to be barred from several countries after being accused of promoting violent sexual assault. Blanc, who later claimed his comments had been ‘a horrible attempt at humour’ was barred from entering the UK and had his Australian visa revoked. Roosh, meanwhile, said his blog post had merely been a ‘satirical thought experiment’. So where does Tate fit into all this? The 35-year-old son of a trailblazing African American chess grandmaster grew up in Chicago and was raised on a council estate in Luton by his mother after his parents split up. Now, he teaches men to beef up and get rich to attract women, occupying a space somewhere between a PUA and a life coach, sharing images of his macho lifestyle – fast cars, cigars, girls and guns (which some say are fakes) – with his followers, as well as offering them dubious financial advice. His notoriety extends far beyond his carefully curated corner of the internet, with news stories including his expulsion from 2016’s Big Brother after a series of racist and homophobic tweets were unearthed alongside a video in which he appeared to be beating a woman with a belt. Tate and the woman claiming to be in the video both say the act was
READ consensual. Campaign group Hope Not Hate has also argued that Tate has a ‘long history’ of links with the far right, pointing to his support for English Defence League co-founder Tommy Robinson. Then, in April this year, Tate and his brother Tristan’s Romanian home was raided by police under suspicion of human trafficking. No arrests were made, and Tate has dismissed it as a set-up by his critics, but the Romanian Directorate for Investigating Organized Crime and Terrorism confirmed to Cosmopolitan UK that an investigation was ongoing and included rape allegations. Despite (or more likely because of) this, Tate’s infamy has not ceased. He may be banned from mainstream social platforms but – as he’ll later tell me – men are still flocking to him for guidance. Meeting Andrew Tate ‘Video call is amazing idea. Tomorrow?’ [sic] is Tate’s response when I agree to an interview, then before we meet, he sends me an hour-long video entitled ‘Andrew Tate’s final message’, saying it is ‘the TRUTH about what’s happening to me’. In it, Tate claims his comments have been taken out of context and sad music plays as he describes himself as having had a ‘very hard life’. Given Tate’s erratic email manner, in which he threatens to sue me before we’ve even spoken, I brace for a hard time. But when we do eventually talk, he is, largely, polite. He is on time and repeatedly flatters me for being a ‘real journalist’ for speaking directly to him (though he hates the ‘media machine’, natch). Soon enough, he’s on his soapbox, extolling the virtues of men being ‘real men’ and condemning ‘skinny vegan soy boys’ and calling me ‘my dear’. Tate speaks in a hyperbolic, Trumpian manner, making statements such as, ‘I wanna make something very, very clear, everyone loves me,’ and, ‘Since they banned me, turned me into a martyr, I have unlimited support like never before. Hundreds of thousands of emails of support, huge media offers from alternative platforms, millions of dollars.’ He says he is ‘the only person in national or international consciousness who cares about how men feel’. He says men are ‘completely underrepresented on every single level, they always have been’, then cites high suicide rates, poor school performance, Tate speaks in a hyperbolic, Trumpian mannner Tox i c m a s c u l i n i t y high male prison populations and what he sees as the increasing feminisation of men in pop culture. ‘We’re tired of being told that we have this massive privilege, while our lives are extremely difficult.’ Tate’s persistence that women have the real upper hand in society ignores the reality that they continue to face inequality and discrimination on a daily basis, with one in four women raped or sexually assaulted and rape reports on the increase. While there are male rape victims, men also make up the majority of perpetrators – 98%. Women also continue to face inequality at work, with the UK gender pay gap increasing to 15.4% in 2021, just 8% of FTSE 100 companies having a female CEO and women being more likely than men to earn below the Living Wage, despite still doing 75% of the unpaid care work globally. But while – intersectionality aside – men are the absolute least marginalised community on the planet, there are some kernels of truth amid the tsunami of untruths and exaggerations Tate trumpets. Suicide is a serious concern – and the leading cause of death for men under 50 in the UK; men are also more likely than women to sleep rough; and they experience more social isolation than girls and women, reporting significantly less life satisfaction than women, while also being less likely to access support when they are struggling. According to a recent Cosmopolitan UK survey, 92% of you worry about the mental health of the men in your life. And 65% of you think they don’t have any positive role models. Is it this gap in the market that Tate has muscled in on? One of the key platforms through which Tate connects to his fans is his online course Hustler’s University (HU). For $49.99 a month, 100k [Tate claims] subscribers can access advice on topics including cryptocurrency, copywriting, e-commerce and even dating (via the PHD – Pimpin’ Hoes Degree – yes, really). An Observer investigation in August this year found that members of HU were being encouraged to inundate social media with clips of Tate, directing people to the course and earning affiliate revenue in the process. It is understood that this is how Tate cultivated his 4.7m Instagram followers and over 12bn views on TikTok before the platforms shut him down. Among the clips, Tate says women should ‘bear some responsibility’ for being raped and talks about how he prefers to date 18- to 19-year-olds because they’ve ‘been through less dick’. Not only that, but he also says that ‘99% of the world’s problems would C o s m o p o l i ta n 79
Tox i c m a s c u l i n i t y be solved if females walked through life with their body count [their number of sexual partners] on their forehead’. But Tate’s content is not all bigotry and bravado. The self-help market has never been bigger. And in many ways, Tate is simply tapping into it. Much of his messaging seems to align with the ethos of manifestation – change your mindset to change your life. He tells his followers, ‘You have to believe you can achieve anything,’ and that ‘feeling depressed is real […] but must be used as a motivation to alter your circumstances’. He sermonises social mobility through self-belief and hard graft. It’s easy to see how he might appeal to someone struggling with low confidence and little social support. Tate insists that most of what’s been said about him is ‘media selectiveness’. He won’t backtrack or apologise, saying he has been ‘unfairly vilified’. When I put some of his more alarming statements about women to him, he doubles down – ‘I stand by everything I’ve ever said.’ He says that teaching men to ‘protect and provide’ helps their mental health, framing comments about women being men’s property as religious. ‘Attacking me is attacking Christianity, it’s attacking the Qur’an.’ Later that week, I follow Tate into his underground community. Since being banned from social media, he and thousands of his followers have decamped to encrypted messaging services as well as video platform Rumble, popular among the alt-right. It’s here that Tate, referring to himself as Top G, hosts his late-night ‘Emergency Meeting’ with his brother Tristan, saying, ‘We’re going to penetrate the Matrix.’ The pair claim as many as 70,000 people are watching the live stream and encourage them to film it and share the videos across social media (the first video has since garnered over 800,000 views). When Cosmopolitan UK reached out to Rumble for comment, they declined to reply, instead tweeting our email along with the message, ‘Like everyone else, you’re welcome to join Rumble, but first look in the mirror.’ I pose as a man to enquire about joining HU and am given a code and directed to several Tate groups. In one, he organises ‘crypto pumps’, encouraging his followers to buy certain currencies en masse and then sell them off piecemeal as the price increases – potentially illegal with real stocks but currently not in the unregulated crypto world. In others, he shares masculine dogma, photographs of women he’s slept with and links to his courses, as well as promoting the teachings of other men. One, called Stirling Cooper (who the brothers later endorse on Rumble), sells a sexual dominance course that includes advice such as ‘smack her in the face with your dick’, and ‘fist her pussy’. Another is David Bond, who teaches how to ‘cheat’ dating apps because they’re ‘rigged against men’. Conflictingly, Tate also shares a list of ways to ‘be a G’ including, ‘G’s treat all women with respect’. How can we dissuade men from the manosphere? Hard to find a good manosphere ‘It really gets me a little bit angry […] He would never do anything to hurt women,’ retorts 32-year-old Nino Haralambidis, when I ask how he feels about misogyny accusations against Tate. When Nino first came across Tate via YouTube in 2018, he thought he was ‘such an ass’, but soon warmed to him. ‘He is just trying to be very provocative, but the message behind it is really good. He is trying to give men more power, more self-confidence.’ Nino credits Tate with building his selfesteem and the success of his online business. Nino is not what I was expecting. He is smiley, affable and amenable to my questions. He has a long-term girlfriend who he says also believes ‘the good [Tate] does far outweighs the things people might misinterpret’. But, soon enough, Nino begins to parrot Tate-isms. ‘I feel like women who are most happy are not the women in the CEO stuff, but more the women who have a family, who have kids and a good husband.’ Nino is clearly somewhat of a superfan. And, it seems, there are varying degrees of Tate fandom: those who find humour in his bombastic diatribes and 80 C o s m o p o l i ta n those who sign up for his courses and follow him to whatever social network he pops up on next. Then there are those who have somehow lost direction – and view the ultra-rich lifestyle Tate portrays as an easy route out of misery in an increasingly status-driven world. Not everyone who follows Tate or has shared one of his videos will agree with everything he says or get sucked into superfandom like Nino, but – whether those watching his content realise it or not – there’s a market for misogyny that does not begin, or end, with Tate. Just as Tate appears to be inspired by the manosphere members before him, there are people cropping up across several platforms whose views are eerily similar to his and still remain live on some sites, peddling their sexist wares and turning a profit. Alongside Cooper and Bond, there’s Tate collaborator Sneako, who also shares ‘motivational’ advice alongside more troubling views such as: ‘feminism is about taking all the power while men are struggling’; and ‘a woman’s worth is what she looks like and a man’s worth is your masculinity, is your respect’. Sneako has been banned from TikTok, Twitter and YouTube but – at the time of printing – is still on Instagram. Podcaster duo Fresh&Fit are also live across several platforms, sharing views like: women ‘naturally wanna be submissive’; and ‘women know deep down that they’re not f***ing leaders’. They all share Tate’s toxic combination that thrives in our attention economy – packaging themselves as one-stop solutions to life’s ills, with a good dollop of controversy thrown in, to guarantee quick and easy clicks. As Tate himself once said, ‘What you ideally want is a mix of 60% to 70% fans and 30% to 40% haters. You want arguments, you want war.’ Callum Hood, head of research at the Center for Countering Digital Hate, explains that there’s a financial incentive in spreading hate. ‘Just think of Roosh V and his site. They make ad revenue on their controversial websites – this is the business model.’ He also points to Paul Elam, who once launched ‘Bash a Violent Bitch Month’ on his site and is still on YouTube monetising his alarming views. The world he’s created So where do we go from here? The ‘war’ and ‘arguments’ that Tate knows can boost his following (and bank balance) have very real consequences that ripple down, impacting young women across the globe. On Mumsnet, one woman shared that her boyfriend claimed that Tate had ‘set men free and made it so they can finally speak their PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK READ
READ minds’. This was followed by comments such as ‘women are like annoying children’ and they ‘take advantage of men’. She pleaded with the community for advice on what she should do. During Tate’s popularity peak, teachers took to social media to raise concerns about boys in their classes quoting the influencer and even refusing to do homework assigned by female teachers. Meanwhile, Plan International research from August 2020 revealed that more than half of young women had experienced online harassment. Research also shows a correlation between online misogyny and real-life behaviour, with several studies linking ‘traditional views of masculinity’ to a higher likelihood of violence against women. Our poll also showed that 59% of you had noticed a recent rise in casual sexism. As for men, the problems mentioned here remain. Despite Tate previously saying that he’s ‘saved thousands of men from depression’, men’s mental health is in trouble – and Tate is a misdirect. Tate’s (and others’ like him) Don’t Worry Darling desire to return to rigid gender roles leads followers down a path that can surely only worsen their mindset in the long term. Numerous studies oppose this approach, showing that the pressure to conform to masculine stereotypes – such as being tough and in control – is associated with an increased risk of depression. Laura Bates, founder of the Everyday Sexism Project and author of Men Who Hate Women, echoes my reflections. ‘The great irony is that if there is a crisis in masculinity it is precisely because of the outdated, stereotypical pressures for men to be strong and invulnerable that Tate and his ilk champion,’ she says, adding that, in her view, ‘the truth is that they have no real interest in addressing issues that affect men because that wouldn’t be profitable for them’. We’re left with a quandary. If these men are profiting from outrage, is the answer to ignore them entirely? In Tate’s own words, this would only cut off 30% to 40% of his following. In which case, what can be done to dissuade men from turning to Where to get help White Ribbon ...works with men and boys to end violence against women and girls Samaritans If you’re struggling with any mental health issues, the free support line is available 24/7 Rape Crisis Specialised, independent and confidential support for women and girls who have experienced any form of sexual violence UK Feminista ...provides training and resources in a bid to end sexism in schools, as well as working with survivors Tox i c m a s c u l i n i t y the manosphere when faced with a crisis? Early education and proper mental health support for men and boys is essential, but we must protect women from the dangers of misogynistic messaging, too. Charities are urging the government to bring forward the Online Safety Bill – which, at the time of writing, remains paused in its passage through parliament – and for it to include a Violence Against Women and Girls Code of Practice. Positively, in June, research from the British Association for Counselling and Psychotherapy found that men are far more likely to go to therapy now than they were a decade ago, so progress is being made. Conversations are happening, legislation is in motion and, while drilling down into the more unsavoury parts of the internet is troubling, these views are widely condemned when they seep into the mainstream. What we can do is to continue to emphasise the positive aspects of masculinity and to remind ourselves that the vast majority of men don’t want to live in a society where we see this extreme normalisation of misogyny. And for those who find comfort or even entertainment in men such as Tate, reiterating that one ostensibly innocent ‘share’ or ‘follow’ can open up a gateway to the mainstream acceptance of violence against women and that there are myriad alternative spaces where they can be heard. C o s m o p o l i ta n 81
What does it take to make it in the world of A-list nails? From 10-hour paint sessions and competitive nail conventions to Lady Gaga music videos and the Met Gala red carpet, we found out BY HAN NA I B R AH E E M 82 C o s m o p o l i ta n
READ Nail art C o s m o p o l i ta n 83
hen the front row has departed, the catwalk show is over and the models replaced by crew in neon jackets, it’s unlikely anyone thinks to look down at a fashion show’s detritus. But they should. Scattered across the floor, like confetti at the end of a concert, you’ll find tiny, squashed nail tips, pulled off nail beds and discarded, only to be swept up and never seen again. Look a little closer and you’ll realise this debris isn’t any old litter. These tiny tips are miniature works of art. Art that has taken hours to create, craft and develop. Art that has utilised everything from intricate colour palettes and brushes to powders, feathers and even gemstones. Art that is years in the making, its masters battling it out to get where they are. This is the world of high-fashion, high-concept celebrity nail art. An industry where, if you scratch below the surface, the high stakes and even higher drama are as outlandish as the creations themselves… After decades of being seen by many as the supporting act to hair and make-up’s headliner, nails have finally earned their rightful place in the (UV) spotlight. Starting in humble local nail salons, a staple of any high street, the mastery of a good manicurist grew in fame and status the same way as most things: the internet. Thanks to social media sites like Pinterest and Instagram (remember those #ManiMonday posts?), the 2000s saw nails become a key accessory to any outfit. Then, things blew up even more when CND (aka Creative Nail Design) launched the first ever gel polish in 2008 – it quickly became known as the two-week manicure. As interest in nails grew, so did the industry’s worth. In fact, the global nail-care market is estimated to reach £9.6bn by 2027, while #nails has over 78.2bn views on TikTok, up by 20bn over the summer of 2022. Good to know I’m not the only one having midnight mani scrolling sessions. But what does it take to get a piece of that pie? I set out to meet the artists and technicians at every level of the game to find out. One woman who’s seen the evolution of nail art from something barely considered by the fashion world to a billion-pound business, is Marian Newman. After 35 years in the industry, she is an icon. But as she tells me over a Zoom call, when she first started out, arriving on shoots to work ‘only on nails’, she was often ‘looked up and down’. A self-proclaimed ‘science education geek’, Newman started out in forensics with the Metropolitan Police. (Yep, you read that right…) She came 84 C o s m o p o l i ta n across the world of nails ‘completely by accident’ while helping a friend with some research and just fell in love with it. So, after leaving her job, she gained her nail qualifications and began working with the Hair and Beauty Therapy Training Board (which later became Habia). One day, a few years later, the office received a random call from a photographer who needed a nail artist for a shoe advertising campaign. ‘It was unheard of in 1996,’ she says. But Newman went along with her little kit. And this is what you might call her big break. The photographer, it transpired, was the legendary Nick Knight, and the stylist? A fashion director at Vogue. A month later, she was approached again, this time for a shoot commissioned by the magazine – working on Kate Moss for the cover. ‘I never looked back,’ she says. Inside the pressure cooker Newman has since worked on numerous shoots and more than 500 fashion shows, but one of her most memorable was when model Debra Shaw took to the catwalk, for Alexander McQueen’s Givenchy Haute Couture AW97 show, wearing 13-inch
READ Nail art 24 hours painting and breathing in the fumes,’ exclaims Francis. As for the big event itself, it’s a far cry from the glitzy setting you’d imagine. While hairstylists and make-up artists are given allotted times, the nail team often aren’t given any time at all. ‘We’re basically the bottom of the food chain,’ says Francis. ‘We’ll sit on the floor or under the table and we have to be in and out very quickly.’ And that’s assuming the designer hasn’t changed their mind on the type of nail they want on the day of the show itself. When I ask Newman about her wildest nail creation of all time, one look comes to mind – worn by Lady Gaga in her You And I music video. ‘It was two nails riveted together so that they swivelled,’ says Newman. ‘I went to Omaha, Nebraska, into a cornfield in 40°C heat to make that video. I’ve never been so hot in my entire life.’ When Gaga saw her swivelling nails, she loved them so much that she told the director they had to get them in shot. ‘We were there for a week,’ says Newman. ‘At one point, Gaga was a mermaid and had special effect gills on her cheeks and neck. So, I made nails that were meant to be an alternative breathing apparatus. I added a hole at the back of them so she could put them to her mouth and appear to breathe through them.’ Another Gaga music video – Born This Way – saw Newman create a backbone on Gaga’s nail. If you look at the video closely, you may even spot instances where her nails resemble the Sydney Opera House. No matter what’s thrown her way, Newman has built a kit to help her achieve it. ‘I have all sorts of strange stuff: feathers, sand, gravel, millets – who else has flipping millets in their kit?’ But it’s not just a big kit and an even bigger imagination that cements a nail artist as a celeb’s go-to. For nail notoriety today, social media has become a nonnegotiable. And nail professionals are fast building followings that rival those of their A-list clients. Nail artist Chaun Legend – who has painted the fingertips of Rihanna, Zendaya and Cardi B – has 1.3m followers Opposite page: Nailympia 2017 Left: Marian Newman’s 13-inch spiral nails for an Alexander McQueen show in 1997 spiral nails (above). This was one of the first times that nails had a major catwalk ‘moment’ in the world of high fashion. ‘I didn’t have a clue what I was doing,’ she reflects. ‘My science background allowed me to work out a way to create four spiral nails. I took them to Paris, showed Lee [McQueen’s real first name] and he loved them, so then I had to make another six in my hotel room. ‘I had someone helping me make them in the bathroom, using liquid and this white powder in a tub. She knocked the powder all over the bathroom of this very swish Parisian hotel and I thought we were going to get thrown out,’ she laughs. Each nail took around an hour and a half to create – for 10 nails, that’s 15 hours. As they were so long, Newman had to apply them to Shaw’s fingertips after she got dressed, to avoid damaging the clothes. But working on shows didn’t always go to plan. ‘For the same show, Naomi Campbell was wearing bespoke diamond-covered sandals and I had to create a specific Maori design for her toenail art,’ Newman remembers. ‘I spent a day painting designs on a test model and taking pictures. But on the day, Naomi was late and after all that work, there was no time to paint it.’ When asked to describe the atmosphere backstage in one word, Newman quickly responds: ‘Pressure. There’s a total lack of space; the heat, which is always off the charts; and the tight constraints – every member must be able to deal with it and not have a meltdown.’ Nail artist Metta Francis, who heard about jobs backstage through fellow manicurists, agrees. Having worked on numerous nail teams during fashion week, including alongside Newman, Francis recalls the prep period that goes into a show, known in the industry as ‘nail factory’. ‘We’ll paint rows and rows of acrylic nails – you need a set for each model, plus spares, in case any get lost, or they aren’t the right size,’ she says. Often, the nail look is only confirmed the night before a show. So nail artists suddenly find themselves pulling an all-nighter. ‘Once, in Milan, six of us spent ‘Each nail took around an hour and a half to create – for 10 nails, that’s 15 hours’ C o s m o p o l i ta n 85


READ Nail art on Instagram and, earlier this year, released his own press-on collection in collaboration with Lottie London. His feed shows a life that looks as glam as you’d expect – yachts, flights around the world for celebrity photo shoots, red carpet events, you get the picture. Case in point? Working behind the scenes at this year’s Met Gala with Khloé Kardashian, Kylie Jenner, Lori Harvey and La La Anthony. Despite what it looks like on your Insta feed, it’s back-breaking work. Take Legend’s collaboration with James Charles for a YouTube video. ‘He had 10 friends give ideas of what he should do with each finger,’ explains Legend. ‘On one finger, I created an extension of a hand with nails sculpted on to that. One nail had a horn coming out of it with a drilled hole and piercing.’ And that’s before Legend added a hand-painted Gryffindor crest. ‘It took a long-ass time to do – 10 hours, around an hour per finger.’ There’s no doubt life at the top is tough. But what about those just starting out? And how do you find the energy to keep going when you don’t have the sweetener of high-end clients with high-end rates to match? Competition and commitment Picture this: you walk into a room with rows upon rows of individual desks. Every chair is filled, its occupants crouched over, hard at work. A group of 10 judges roam the aisles, inspecting every detail of the painstaking work taking place. No, this isn’t an A-level exam. It’s Nailympia, viewed as the Olympics of the nail art industry. Alex Fox, founding editor of Scratch magazine (the leading publication for nail professionals), first learned about The Nail Olympics – the name later changed to Nailympia, after they were told they weren’t allowed to use the word ‘Olympics’ – while attending the championships in Austria. ‘It was crazy,’ she remembers. ‘[There were people riding] motorbikes on the stage, there were rock ’n’ roll bands and indoor pyrotechnics.’ So, in May 2005, Fox decided to host the first Nail Olympics in the UK at Olympia London. After missing 2020 and 2021 due to the pandemic, the competition is now in its 16th year. Attracting a crowd of thousands, and in the region of 230 competitors, the event has even branched out to Germany, the United States, Mexico, Canada, Australia and Estonia. Contestants pay a fee of around £300 to enter, and categories include The Joy of Nails, Runway, Invent a Nail Shape and Reality (this year’s theme included ‘cake baker nails’). On the final day, the judges hand out medals across three skill divisions. ‘Winning our medals and trophies has skyrocketed careers and these winners can now command a lot of money as nail educators,’ explains Fox. ‘They get flown around the world as teachers, become ambassadors, write books and start their own brands.’ Newman adds: ‘For a set of nails, they can charge £500’. Of course, it isn’t easy to win. In fact, the judging criteria is mind-blowing. An acrylic nail will be assessed on everything from the apex and C-curve to the upper arch and side walls. And that’s before they even get to cuticle care and application technique. It’s a testament to the skill involved. There are numerous other awards nail artists can enter, outside of Nailympia. There’s the Scratch Stars Awards and BABTAC’s Nail Technician award. ‘You have to submit an application form and a portfolio of your work to prove why you’re worthy of the award,’ explains Francis, who recently won Natural Nail Specialist of the Year at Scratch Stars. ‘There’s also a practical day. In a simulation, five finalists are given a fake client and you go through ‘One nail had a horn coming out of it with a drilled hole and piercing’ 86 C o s m o p o l i ta n the whole process of a consultation and carrying out a nail treatment within 45 minutes.’ And it doesn’t end there, as each finalist then goes through an interview process. It’s intense. Intense, and expensive. Not only do these events require hours of preparation beforehand, but also a substantial financial outlay. Aside from any training courses, there are also travel expenses, entry fees and, of course, all the props and kit required to compete. Nail artist Annie Pham, from Kent, tells me it’s taken years to build her kit. ‘I started collecting bracelets, charms and earrings. Then I bought fabric. All sorts of things. I just keep adding. When I go back to Vietnam, I tend to go nail shopping there, as it’s a lot cheaper.’ But even when you’re fully kitted out, it’s a constant reinvestment and scramble to keep up with the latest trends. Nail artist Sophie* tells me that any time a new trend goes viral on Instagram, she has to make sure she has all the tools necessary to recreate it. ‘When glazed doughnut nails were everywhere, I had to get my hands on as many chrome polishes as possible,’ she says. ‘So many brands were sold out, but I hunted them down as that’s what my clients wanted.’ ‘There are people who compete fulltime in the nail industry, and that’s their
PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY. ARTWORK: PETER CROWTHER AT DEBUT ART. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY; INSTAGRAM/@IAMCARDIB; INSTAGRAM/@THEESTALLION. *NAME HAS BEEN CHANGED thing,’ says Francis. ‘They will travel from country Opposite: Megan Thee Stallion’s signature nails to country, entering competitions and winning Above: Cardi B’s trophies. But you have to be so dedicated.’ Swarovski-encrusted And what happens if you don’t win after nails usually cost more than $200 to create committing all that time and money? Pham first competed in 2020, creating one 11cm-long nail that she spent nine hours crafting. ‘It took me a good three months constantly working on what I wanted to enter. I didn’t place. But I learned a lot from it.’ An equal playing field? Despite the knock-backs (and cost), Pham is still committed to becoming the best nail artist she can be. ‘You have to work so you can use that money to buy things like materials, tools and training courses. I do training Monday to Wednesday and work in a salon part-time Thursday to Saturday,’ she explains. While training courses vary depending on the skill and educator, a quick Google search tells me that a VTCT Level 3 Diploma in Nail Technology (one of the highest qualifications you can get) will set you back £2,299 for a two-month course, while a one-day diploma in acrylic nails costs £199. So how does she kick back and relax when she’s not working in the salon or on a training course? ‘I’ll stay after work for an extra four or five hours and carry on perfecting my skills. I prefer doing it at night because no one is around. It’s peaceful.’ And even when she gets home, Pham settles down to watch nail tutorials. She acknowledges that, as with any job, you have your good and bad days, too. ‘It can be quite overwhelming when you can’t get things right and you might have a little breakdown, but you just carry on,’ she says. ‘My job is to make my clients happy. They come to the salon, I hold their hand for an hour, they tell me everything about their lives and I feel like I’m doing a therapist’s work, too, comforting them. It’s nice to share that with them.’ Pham’s ultimate goal is to be an educator, but it seems like an endless cycle when she tells me the best way to get there is to complete yet more training workshops. ‘You must keep improving yourself, take more courses – you need to improve your knowledge,’ she explains. ‘I don’t know when I’m going to be ready, though.’ Simply put, I’m learning you have to work (really, really) hard and invest a lot of money to become a successful nail artist. The world of nails has changed rapidly since the industry’s icons first set out, and it’s tougher than ever to make it to the big time – thanks to wilder design requests, the explosion of social media and the rising cost of, well, everything. But it’s a lot more than just filling your kit and booking in clients. Nails have long been a politicised statement and whitewashing is a big problem in the industry. We often see the Kardashians getting praised for the same designs that Black women have worn for years. ‘It’s cultural appropriation, really,’ says Sophie. ‘As a Black woman, I enjoy expressing myself through my nail art, but these vibrant designs were usually labelled “too ghetto” in professional settings. ‘Then long, acrylic nails became “a trend” and like many other beauty trends from the Black community, they’ve been appropriated. Of course, anyone can wear them, but we haven’t been recognised at all. The headlines usually credit it to a celebrity instead.’ Scroll through most of the Instagram feeds for nail brands and you’ll also notice a distinct lack of non-white hands. Classism is rife, too, with press-on nails and nail stickers often seen as ‘cheap’ in some circles, yet worshipped as being high fashion in others. ‘Now, we have more incredible Black A-listers at the forefront, such as Cardi B and Megan Thee Stallion, who have elevated the status of long, sharp acrylic nails decorated in vibrant tones and jewels,’ says Sophie. For something as small as a nail bed, it’s fiercely fought real estate. Yet while the industry booms, the race to make it to the top has, arguably, never been more competitive, or challenging. What really struck me over the course of writing this feature wasn’t the celebrities, the outlandish designs or rivalries – it was the dedication, care and craftsmanship of everyone I spoke to. So next time you settle down for a manicure and request the latest craze you saw on TikTok, spare a thought for how many hours your nail tech probably put into perfecting it. C o s m o p o l i ta n 87
Welcome to the What would you pay to start a family? Would you empty your savings? Barter with a professional fertility treatments forcing many to spend thousands of pounds, a murky But for many women, the long-term cost is much greater than they could have imagined. 88 C o s m o p o l i ta n
fertility black market stranger? Agree to unprotected sex with someone you’ve never met? With underworld has developed, offering fertilisation with ‘no strings attached’. Now, new government legislation promises a solution. But will it work? WO R D S : M EGA N WA L L AC E C o s m o p o l i ta n 89
READ Fe r t i l e g ro u n d ’m a digital shadow. As incognito as it’s possible to get. My picture is the standard nondescript outline and all my profile contains is my (fake) name and my (fake) age. I don’t expect much attention. I don’t want any. I simply want to hover and drink in my online surroundings. But within 20 minutes they’ve found me. There’s the straight-to-the point anonymous account (‘Hey, are you wanting a donor?’); the shell account with 16 friends – the profile picture is of a suspiciously blue-eyed baby that looks digitally created or heavily photoshopped – (‘If you’re looking for a donor, I would be interested to hear more about you’); and there’s the overzealous group admin (‘I saw you join a site and wondered if I can be any use to you’) who sends 30 pictures, showing themselves posing next to signs with words such as ‘d*ck’, ‘p*ssy’ or ‘d*ke’. This is the fertility black market, where bodily fluids are currency. Clive Jones. ‘Joe Donor.’ Gennadij Raivich. These men are not well known, but to some they’re infamous. Jones, a 66-year-old retired teacher, claims to be the ‘world’s most prolific sperm donor’. He says he has fathered 129 children (and counting) over the past nine years, travelling the country in his van to give out his free ‘donations’. ‘Joe Donor’ is the alias of an Essex-based man who says he has fathered 150 children around the world (his mission is to impregnate as many women as he can – 2,500 is his goal.) Then there’s Raivich who, in 2014, was convicted on two counts of sexual assault after fathering 58 children as a sperm donor. A detective working on the case said Raivich had ‘exploited’ the woman ‘for his own sexual gratification’. And these are just the stories that make the headlines. In recent years, online groups run by so-called ‘donors’ like these men have begun to thrive as a place to find ‘free’ sperm for artificial insemination – particularly for single women and lesbian couples (although there are heterosexual couples on there, too). Why? For many, it’s a cost issue. Until recently, lesbian couples in England (Scotland and Wales already offer equal funding to same-sex couples) had to self-fund a minimum of six rounds of IUI (intrauterine insemination) before they could access NHS fertility support (heterosexual couples could access treatment after two years of unprotected sex). In a clinic, one round of IUI can cost between £350 and £1,600 – which doesn’t include the price of sperm, at around £1,000 per vial – or the costs of appointments, check-ups or health screenings that might be part of the process. Then, on 20 July this year, as part of NHS England’s 10-year Women’s Health Strategy, it was announced that would no longer be the case. This means that soon there will be no requirement to self-fund for those in female same-sex relationships. ‘The changes outlined in the Women’s Health Strategy will save these couples between £2,100 and £12,000,’ says Katherine O’Brien, the associate director of communications and campaigns at BPAS (the British Pregnancy Advisory Service). It’s progress. However, it isn’t a straightforward solution. No fixed time frames have been given and ‘sadly, we aren’t anticipating the changes coming into effect any time soon’, O’Brien says. In addition, the NHS England strategy makes no mention of, or provision for, single women. ‘We still don’t know if their ability to access NHS treatment is going to be improved at all,’ O’Brien explains. This means options for single women remain adoption, egg freezing or IUI and with it, that hefty price tag of up to £12,000. Or, online, you can get an overnight delivery of a home-insemination kit for £24.99 and find men who are willing to give their sperm for free. Well, ‘free’ in a monetary sense, but I soon realise there is an even greater cost than money at stake, when my rudimentary Facebook profile manages to gain access to three major sperm-donation groups based in the UK. In the trade ‘6ft tall. Fit and healthy. Well educated. NI only,’ is how John Silver* introduces himself – accompanied by an armoutstretched selfie – to the 32,000 members of Sperm For Free UK*. While there are similar offerings on other social networking sites, with men placing personal adverts 90 C o s m o p o l i ta n offering their sperm to those who need it, it’s on Facebook where this scene really thrives. Type ‘sperm donor UK’ into the search bar and a seemingly infinite scroll of groups appears, with many of the most active ones requiring admin approval for access. These groups are essentially a space for personal ads inviting comments and private messages, where wannabe donors might share pictures of themselves with a caption saying they’re ‘single, looking to help’ or boasting about their fertility. Meanwhile, potential mothers post personal details, often listing their relationship status and location. Lots of the posts contain the initialisms AI and NI, which stand for ‘Artificial Insemination’ (ie, fertilisation using a pre-prepared sperm sample) and ‘Natural Insemination’ (ie, unprotected sex) – often it’s the women asking for the former and the donors advertising the latter. Tellingly, when I check the ‘About’ sections, I find the admins for all these groups are cisgendered men. And, as revealed by The Times, a large number are controlled by the same men *NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED ‘There were a lot of guys who would offer to donate but only if we got the stuff out ourselves’
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES READ – two donors are the administrators of at least 10 UK groups, with a total of more than 26,000 members. They can admit members, monitor messages and exclude people. When Rae and her wife of nine years decided they wanted a child, they knew that their fertility journey would be tough. Rae – a 36-year-old non-binary person, who had opted to be the carrier – has a BMI of 50, so was automatically discounted from accessing any NHS-funded fertility treatments, which are only offered if you have a BMI of between 19 and 30 (similar barriers are in place for adoption, too). Knowing she’d receive no help from the NHS, she tried to go down the private route – but quickly realised that the costs were prohibitive. Things began to look up when she contacted a private sperm donor in her wider circle – until he began dodging her texts. ‘The month we were going to try he said he was too busy and then he started blowing us off, before ghosting us. I was heartbroken.’ At this point, Rae admits to asking ‘almost every guy I knew’ to act as a sperm donor, but her search got her nowhere – nowhere that is, apart from the ensnaring world of Fe r t i l e g ro u n d Facebook sperm-donation groups. The stories she shares are alarming. ‘Things got a bit strange. There were a lot of guys who would offer to donate but only if we got the stuff out ourselves.’ Taken aback, I press for clarification – surely she can’t mean these donors were asking for hand jobs? ‘Yeah, pretty much. Some were even saying, “You can use your mouth,” or, “We have to have a threesome.”’ Understandably, these unsolicited advances started to take a toll on Rae and her partner’s mental health – especially as many donors proved to be inconsistent or cancelled last minute when the couple insisted upon artificial insemination. As time wore on, she even started to wonder if it might be worth giving donors what they so clearly wanted and opt for natural insemination. ‘It was horrible; neither I nor my partner have been with a man, but we were so desperate I was getting to a point of thinking that maybe we should just do it.’ Despite this mounting pressure, Rae and her partner weren’t coerced into any unwanted sexual activity – and they’re glad they trusted their instincts. But these stumbling blocks did put a stop to their search, two years into the process, without having had a successful donation. I was horrified to learn of Rae’s experience, but stories like this aren’t rare among the women using sperm-donation Facebook groups – there are numerous pages dedicated to testimonials. I gained access to a secret, female-only group for discussing donors, where many of the allegations focus on the issues of consent flagged by Rae. Indeed, across the various feedback groups, the accusations against donors are shocking – they include stories of homophobic and misogynistic comments, getting stood up at the last minute and repeatedly being messaged by fake profiles claiming to be donors. There are men who turn verbally abusive when ‘natural insemination’ (unprotected penetrative sex) is refused, those forging STI certificates and others pushing for excessive payment (in the UK, it’s illegal to pay donors, although their expenses may be reimbursed – legitimate clinics allow them to claim £35 per visit). It’s a terrifying, unregulated world where so much can (and does) go heartbreakingly wrong. Is it always this toxic? Well, yes, at least according to Laura*, a single 44-year-old woman who began using the groups in 2020. ‘I joined three Facebook sperm-donation C o s m o p o l i ta n 91
READ Fe r t i l e g ro u n d she reports donors looking for romantic connections – only to turn nasty when she rebuffed their advances. ‘When I told one guy I wasn’t looking for a relationship, I got a barrage of abusive messages saying that I’m a tease.’ Sperm donated via groups, all of which I have since left a clinic undergoes because it was so negative and such rigorous testing for a pack mentality,’ she says. ‘If you sexual infections and genetic conditions didn’t like the three or four main donors, then people would say, “I thought you wanted a baby?” I do want a baby, just not one with a million siblings.’ From her perspective, with the largest groups being operated by the same handful of donors, vulnerable women and non-binary people looking to start families can feel like fresh meat in a sexual cattle market. ‘These admin guys get first pick of recipients and I had messages from them before my requests to join the groups were even approved,’ says Laura. As a single, heterosexual woman in groups predominantly populated by lesbian women and queer couples, she found the sexual pressure from donors pushing for natural insemination to be intense. ‘Because I’m straight I was supposed to want NI [according to donors]. I told them that’s not how it works; I’m not going to have sex with random guys because I want a child – women like me aren’t in it for the sex, they just want a baby. Despite that, I found I was constantly being manipulated by these men so they could try to have sex with me.’ On top of that, 92 C o s m o p o l i ta n †SOURCE: YOUGOV.CO.UK A new family model Amid the introductions, horror stories and warnings, there are also glimmers of hope dotted through the feeds of these groups. Scans are shared, accompanied by heart emojis and expressions of thanks to donors. Sarah*, a married lesbian, is one of them. She and her partner recently started a family, something she never would have thought possible. It’s a life she’d wanted for so long and she eventually got it, after meeting her donor via a Facebook group. ‘We looked at both clinics and the internet to find our donor and we chose the internet because we wanted to get to know our donor,’ she says. There were, however, some false starts. ‘We met four donors face to face before choosing: two were bad, two were good. We picked the nicest of the two good donors.’ She tells me that her donor has 14 other children, whose parents are all aware of each another via a shared private Facebook group. She paints a picture that many would envisage as the perfect donor scenario and says, ‘He doesn’t interfere but is always contactable.’ It’s a relief to hear a positive story, but even if the search for a donor works out, it’s worth remembering there are numerous other considerations. For starters, if you find your sperm on the black market, you can’t always guarantee a donor who doesn’t intervene. According to Gemma Davison, senior associate at Stowe Family Law, the birth mother will always be recognised as the legal mother – but things get more complicated from there. One of the benefits of using sperm from a clinic is that the donor is not considered the legal parent of your child; your partner (if you have one) is recognised as the second legal parent. This is not the case on the black market. ‘When conceiving a child using a sperm donor [not from a recognised clinic], the method of conception and relationship status of those involved determines the legal status of the other parent, so it is imperative to obtain legal advice on this before proceeding with a sperm-donor arrangement,’ says Davison. In this instance, Sarah and her partner are married, which grants protections, but for single women or unmarried same-sex couples, the donor is considered a legal parent
READ of any child conceived with his sperm. This means he can claim rights or, conversely, the birth mother can pursue child maintenance payments – and any contract or arrangement you draw up between you will not be recognised in the eyes of the law. Health risks are another thing to consider if a donor is found through ‘unofficial’ routes. Understandably, when the exchange of bodily fluids is involved, there is an STI risk when it comes to using donor sperm – whether it’s from natural or artificial insemination. Many posts from prospective mothers ask for STI tests in advance but it’s worth remembering that these can be faked or, alternatively, rendered useless if donors have unprotected sex after the date of examination. On the other hand, as Rebecca Hay, a fertility nurse and representative of the Evewell Clinic, a London-based private fertility centre, explains, sperm donated via a clinic undergoes rigorous protocol and is screened for sexual infections such as hepatitis B and C, Fe r t i l e g ro u n d home insemination are legal, as money is not exchanged, the Human Fertilisation and Embryology Authority encourages caution owing to legal and health risks. The legality of these groups is also dependent on how they’re used: Facebook’s community guidelines prohibit groups that encourage or coordinate sexual encounters (a rule that should, technically, apply to NI groups) and anyone charging for services beyond expenses is breaking the law. Who has the right to become a parent? One thing that struck me over the course of writing this feature was the outdated state of the societal systems that support fertility when it comes to what – and who – makes a family. One in five young people now identify as LGBTQ+ (only 72% as ‘completely heterosexual’)†, the average age of first-time mothers is increasing and the percentage of single women aged 20 to 49 grew by 38% between 2002 and 2020 (while the population of the UK grew by 13.2%). The new NHS strategy could be a lifeline to many, but does it go far enough? As a queer person who would need to access fertility support if I wanted to have a biological child, it’s a huge development. After years of batting off my mum when she asks about my future, I can allow myself to dream about and, when I am ready, plan to have kids. But despite what these changes mean for people like me, I remain deeply troubled by the exclusion of single women from these developments. My mother was single for my teen years and, for reasons I won’t get into here, I opted not to have my father in my life. Going through adolescence with just Mum, I had a different experience from many of my peers, but I don’t think it was a worse one. My mother worked hard to be a mum, dad and, where appropriate, a friend to me. So I grew up with an awareness of how hard so many women work to keep the plates of home, children and work spinning, and I became a more empathetic person than many of the other teenagers I knew. I hate to think of the other women who, like my mum, would pour their heart into nurturing a child but who just won’t get the chance. Or who will have to endure great emotional turmoil, reckoning with the online black market or fertility clinics to do so – with little help from the NHS, or support in a world where the word ‘family’ is still associated with a certain ideal and anyone who doesn’t fit into that can feel out in the cold. Many of us are sold on the idea of the nuclear family – husband, wife and 2.5 kids. And after decades of activism, queer couples are finally gaining some access to that dream. It’s something we should all be able to celebrate, but the story shouldn’t stop there. ‘Family’ should mean anything – from two married parents, to a same-sex couple who have used a donor, to a single mum who has used IVF. There shouldn’t be just one or two routes – as long as the child is loved and supported, what does it matter? ‘I was being manipulated by these men so they could try to have sex with me‘ HIV, syphilis, chlamydia and gonorrhoea, as well as HTLV (a cancer-causing virus) and CMV (a virus that may cause birth defects). And it doesn’t stop at STI screening. ‘The clinics also do extensive genetic screening to see if donors are carriers of any genetic conditions, such as cystic fibrosis,’ Hay explains. In other words, clinics minimise the risks that donated sperm may pass on genetic or inherited diseases unbeknown to the carrier – something that has proven to not always be the case in informal donor arrangements. You may even have read in the news about James MacDougall, a sperm donor who fathered (he says) 15 children as a donor by using social media groups, but did not explain to his recipients the consequences of fragile-x syndrome, the incurable hereditary condition from which he suffers, which can cause a range of developmental problems. In a rare move, he was named publicly by the courts in an attempt to ensure that he wouldn’t return to sperm donation. These are some of the many reasons there are such stringent rules around buying regulated, licensed sperm for personal use in the home (or for use away from a licensed clinic). Similarly, for those looking to buy sperm from abroad, the sample will be shipped to a UK clinic for screening (incurring related costs) and isn’t meant to be shipped directly for home insemination, as the sample quality cannot be guaranteed. While groups and sites putting prospective parents into contact with donors for C o s m o p o l i ta n 93
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READ B e a u t y Awa rd s Body Treat yourself from top to toe with these supercharged scrubs, glowy skin enhancers and dreamy creams 02 BODY LOTION BODY SCRUB 01 Dove DermaSeries Replenishing Body Lotion, £15 Look after your skin’s moisture barrier with this comforting lotion. It’s non-greasy and made us feel like we had our lives together. Frank Body Glycolic Body Scrub, £17 This hero scrub is rich in glycolic and lactic acids (the ingredients that purge pores of spot-causing gunk), which helps keep your limbs bump-free. RAZOR INSTANT TAN 03 01. SHAVING GEL Wilkinson Sword Intuition Complete Bikini Trimmer and Razor, £15 With a five-blade razor on one end and a waterproof trimmer on the other, this makes hair removal a breeze. Estrid Watermelon Jelly, £8.95 The much-loved shower cleanser and shave cream now has a fragrance-free formula, too – a big hurrah from us sensitive folks. 02. EXFOLIATING BODY SERUM Paula’s Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum, £34 PSA: niacinamide is not just for your face! This new serum helps tackle patchy tone and texture on your body. 03. DEODORANT Akt The Deodorant Balm SC.04 Halcyon Summers, £19 Not only does this deodorant have environmental ethics at its forefront but there’s a gorgeous minty scent, too. Bondi Sands Gradual Tanning Lotion Tinted Skin Perfector, £13.99 Wow, this ticks every box – it gives limbs a sun-kissed glow and builds up into a longlasting tan over time. BODY CREAM HAND CREAM HANDWASH BODY WASH GRADUAL TAN FAKE TAN This Works Deep Sleep Body Whip, £25 This buttery formula melts into your skin, cocooning you in its lavender, camomile and vetiver scent. Lanolips Lano Vanilla Hand Cream Intense, £8.99 Hands feeling a bit like sandpaper? A dollop of this will sort that out, with its soothing shea butter and vitamin E. Moroccanoil Liquid Hand Wash, £18 Okay, whoever said handwash can’t be cute never met this beauty with its spicy amber scent and nourishing formula. Olverum Body Cleanser, £26.50 Sensitive skin? You’ll love this body wash. Soap- and sulphatefree, it removes dirt while respecting the skin barrier. He-Shi Hydra Luxe Lotion, £19.99 If you’re over fake tan clinging to flaky skin, give this a try. Expect a golden finish after first use, or layer daily for a deep bronze. Vita Liberata Untinted Heavenly Tanning Elixir, £34 One of the longestlasting tans we’ve tried, this liquid gold fades over 10 days. It smells divine, too. C o s m o p o l i ta n 95
READ B e a u t y Awa rd s GLOW-BOOSTING FACE MASK FACIAL SPF Skincare Hada Labo Tokyo Sun Face Cream SPF50, £16.95 Loaded to the brim with hyaluronic acid, this SPF is the perfect everyday UV defence for dry skin types. They’re the crème de la crème of beauty treatments – our new bathroom-cabinet staples deliver an all-day glow from the moment the sun rises to the second it sets FaceGym Cheat Mask, £65 All the best ingredients in one: lactic acid gently exfoliates while succinic acid brightens the skin. EYE CREAM PORE MINIMISER LIGHTWEIGHT MOISTURISER FACE MIST GEL CLEANSER LASH SERUM Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair (ANR) Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme, £52 This new cream for the iconic ANR range is here to tackle fine lines and puffiness. The Inkey List Excess Oil Solution 20% Niacinamide Serum, £15.99 Mop up any signs of excess sebum with this clever formula that also works to improve skin texture. Olay Hyaluronic24 + Vitamin B5 Day Gel Cream, £38 Nourishing and fragrance-free, this gel moisturiser absorbs instantly – a dream for those with dehydrated skin. Thayers Facial Mist, £14.99 Our (and Zendaya’s) favourite toner now comes in mist form! Not only does it soothe skin, but it hydrates, too – a winter win-win. The Body Shop Edelweiss Cleansing Concentrate, £12 A sink-side staple, massage a 10p-sized amount on wet skin and watch it melt away impurities and make-up. The Ordinary MultiPeptide Lash and Brow Serum, £12.40 This viral TikTok sensation sure does work wonders: it has given us thicker and fuller lashes in just a few weeks. BRIGHTENING SERUM RETINOL SERUM RICH MOISTURISER FACE OIL FOAMING FACE WASH MULTI-PURPOSE BALM L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Clinical Pure 12% Vitamin C Serum, £29.99 This smoothing powerhouse of a serum has fast become a team fave. Kiehl’s Retinol Fast Release Wrinkle-Reducing Night Serum, £68 Minimising lines in five days sounds wild, but this retinol-packed formula truly acts fast. Kate Somerville HydraKate Recharging Water Cream, £65 AquaPort technology is the key player here, hydrating dry winter skin for radiant results. Ranavat Radiant Rani Brightening Saffron Face Oil, £135 Packed with glowy ingredients, this oil offers the perfect start to a facial massage. Spenny but effective. ZitSticka Cushion Cleanser, £34 There are plenty of face washes on sale, but very few support acne-prone skin while cleansing thoroughly. This one does just that. La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5, £15 This cream helps soothe your winter skin irritations, so you can wave goodbye to that tight, dry feeling. SKIN INNOVATION EXFOLIATOR OVERNIGHT TREATMENT SPOT TREATMENT MAKE-UP REMOVER ANTI-AGEING SERUM Face Halo Active Skin Set + Washbag, £27 These cleansing and exfoliating pads are reusable and ideal to use on the go. Genius. Dermalogica Breakout Clearing Liquid Peel, £23 This peel sloughs away your dead skin cells without irritation. Just start slowly. Sarah Chapman Digital Rest Night Cream, £57 Say no to blue light at night – and yes to this cream that renews cells while you sleep. CeraVe Blemish Control Gel, £11 With 2% salicylic acid, niacinamide and ceramides, your spots don’t stand a chance against this little tube. Bioderma Sensibio H2O Eye, £12 This non-greasy lotion makes quick work of everything from waterproof mascara to pollen and pollutants. Fresh Tea Elixir, £97 Our skin goes through a lot of stress (hello, blue light), but there’s hope yet: this milky serum shields against it all. 96 C o s m o p o l i ta n
01. LIP BALM Doré Le Baume, £11 A new handbag staple for sure, this balm contains castor oil, aloe vera and vitamin E, making it ideal for soothing and moisturising those dry, chapped lips. 03. HYDRATING SERUM Trinny London Plump Up Peptide+ HA Serum, £65 Your skin literally drinks up this lightweight formula. The peptides help with collagen production for plumper skin and the hyaluronic acid stops dryness in its tracks. 02. BLEMISH PREVENTION TONER Medik8 Press & Clear, £34 Salicylic acid is one of the best ingredients for combatting acne and, formulated with 2%, this toner revolutionises skincare. We approve. 04. FIRMING FACE MASK Neal’s Yard Remedies Frankincense Intense Age-Defying Overnight Mask, £50 Not only does this boost hydration, but it instantly smooths and plumps thanks to botanical adaptogens, ashwaghanda and turmeric root extracts, leaving skin firmer. 03 02 01 04 C o s m o p o l i ta n 97
01. SHEER LIP COLOUR Violette_Fr Bisou Balm, £29 Described as a ‘feelgood formula’ (and we totally agree), this buttery lip tint glides on, smooths the lips and gives a just-bitten hint of colour. 02. LIQUID EYELINER 04 Vieve Power Ink Liner, £19 The teeny-tiny fine point on this liner gives a super precise line, or you can build up to an all-out cat eye – whatever you choose, the formula doesn’t budge at all. 03. NAIL POLISH 01 03 Ashe London Nail Polish, £15 There’s nothing we love more than discovering an amazing new nail brand, and Ashe London really delivers. The vegan formula and stunning shade selection makes it a firm fave of ours. 04. HIGHLIGHTER Elf Halo Glow Liquid Filter, £14 You may have seen this highlighter all over your TikTok FYP (For You page) for boasting not only a bright, beamy glow, but also for hydrating the skin. 02 98 C o s m o p o l i ta n
READ B e a u t y Awa rd s LIP LINER LUXURY MASCARA Make-up Meet our new holy grails: these creamy concealers, top-of-the-line tints and velvety lipsticks have more than earned their place in our beauty bags Chanel Noir Allure Mascara, £37 If thick, long lashes are your goal, look no further – this mascara delivers the perfect amount in one swoop. Rare Beauty Kind Words Lip Liner, £14 Selena knew what she was doing with this. The balm-like texture glides on lips with some serious pigment. HIGH STREET MASCARA BROW GEL UNDER-EYE CONCEALER FULL-COVERAGE FOUNDATION FULL-ON LIP COLOUR LIP GLOSS L’Oréal Paris Pro XXL Mascara, £13.49 Love a lash lift but CBA to maintain it? Want volume and serious curl action? This one is for you. Sleek MakeUp Brow Getter Fibre Brow Gel, £7.99 This long-lasting gel will reduce the time you spend fussing over those brows. Rem Beauty Sweetener Concealer, £21 It blends easier than soft Lurpak on warm toast. With 60 shades, everyone is covered. YSL Beauty All Hours Foundation, £36 This YSL foundation is a dream: it perfects your complexion and allows your skin to breathe beneath it. Mac Powder Kiss Velvet Blur Slim Stick, £24 Moisturising and matte – it’s unusual, but it’s the best lipstick we’ve tried to date. Highr Collective California Lip Milk, £22 Is your lip gloss a sticky hair magnet on windy days? You need this milky formula now. EYESHADOW PALETTE BROW DEFINER BLEMISH CONCEALER MEDIUM-COVERAGE FOUNDATION SMOOTHING PRIMER GLOW-BOOSTING PRIMER Pat McGrath Labs Mothership X: Moonlit Seduction, £115 ‘VR Sextasy’ is the perfect shade for an easy eye look that demands attention. Benefit Cosmetics Gimme Brow+ Volumizing Pencil, £23.50 Benefit’s perfect brow pencil volumises, fills and defines arches in just a few swipes. Glow Hub Under Cover Concealer, £14 This conceals and heals your blemishes thanks to spotzapping ingredients salicylic acid and white willow bark. Sculpted By Aimee Satin Silk Longwear Foundation, £27 This hydrating foundation revives tired complexions with just a few pumps. Tatcha The Liquid Silk Canvas, £48 Oily skin sufferers, unite. Slather on this slightly runny cult primer for a matte look that doesn’t block your natural glow. Maybelline Perfector 4-in-1 Glow, £13.99 We love a multitasker – this gave a light tint of coverage, added a glowy sheen and primed skin for foundation. PENCIL EYELINER BRONZER SETTING SPRAY SHEER-COVERAGE FOUNDATION CREAM EYESHADOW BLUSHER Hourglass Voyeur Waterproof Gel Eyeliner, £27 These creamy liners are unrivalled – so you can smudge your heart out! But once it’s set, it’s not moving. Nars Laguna Bronzing Cream, £32.50 This formula offers a just-got-backfrom-Greece glow – even if the closest we got was watching A Place In The Sun. Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Spray, £33 This mist gives your make-up a 16-hour wear time (trust us, it lasted through a sweaty barre class). Iconic London Super Smoother Blurring Skin Tint, £27 Light, hydrating tints that leave a soft, matte finish are rare finds – this one has answered all our beauty prayers. Gen See Mixed Media Liquid Eyeshadow, £19 We’d go as far as calling these creamy, vegan eyeshadows lifeproof – once set they Do. Not. Budge. Chanel Les Beiges Water-Fresh Blush, £42 Micro-droplets of pigment sounds like something from GCSE science, but this blush leaves a pretty flush. C o s m o p o l i ta n 99
READ B e a u t y Awa rd s HYDRATING HAIR MASK Hair Whether your locks are curly, coily, wavy or straight – protect and nourish your tresses with these gloss-giving essentials Beauty Pie Super Healthy Hair Luscious Moisture Treatment Masque, £40 for non-members Prepare to fall in love – this mask is super nourishing for dry hair. HYDRATING HAIR WASH DUO STRENGTHENING HAIR MASK CURL BALM COLOUR REFRESH TREATMENT It’s A 10 Silk Express Miracle Silk Shampoo, £23, and Conditioner, £22 Sceptical of ‘miracle’ products? So are we – but these really did serve up the gloss. Hair By Sam McKnight Deeper Love Intense Treatment Mask, £48 This keratin mask gives weakened strands a bit of backbone in the kindest, healthiest way. Umberto Giannini Curl Jelly Shine Leave-In Conditioning Curl Balm, £10.25 Run through wet hair and leave to air-dry for soft, defined curls. Fudge Professional Clean Blonde PreToning Primer, £16 Colour looking dull? No time for a salon trip? This removes build-up and perks up hair tones in minutes. CLARIFYING SHAMPOO REPAIRING HAIR WASH DUO CURL PRIMER TEXTURE SPRAY Olaplex No. 4C Bond Maintenance Clarifying Shampoo, £28 This genius formula from Olapex restores shine while giving a deep clean. Bleach London Reincarnation Shampoo and Conditioner, £24 Say buh-bye to snapped lengths and split ends with this protein-packed duo. Twist by Ouidad Primed & Co, £12.99 Part primer, part conditioner, fully incredible for both curls and coils. This cream creates soft, juicy spirals with ease. Kms HairPlay Playable Texture, £19.55 If you battle flat, limp locks every day, this volumising mist is all you need to give strands some oomph. OVERNIGHT TREATMENT DRY SHAMPOO CURL GEL BOND-BUILDING TREATMENT w Aussie G’Night Moisture Sleep In Serum, £19.99 Run this serum through your locks before bed and it’ll get to work repairing any tired, frazzled lengths. 100 C o s m o p o l i ta n BeautyBio Healthy Scalp Dry Shampoo, £39 This cleans your hair without leaving any build-up. Such a good root reset, you’ll forget wash day existed. Bouclème Seal + Shield Curl Defining Gel, £26 Rain and humidity have met their match. This gel defines curls without crunchiness and combats frizz. Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate, £21.50 Pre-wash treatments do take time, but when they make hair twice as smooth like this one does, it’s 100% worth it. 01. STRENGTHENING HAIR WASH DUO Rahua Enchanted Island Shampoo, £34, and Conditioner, £36 One of the smartest hair wash duos we’ve ever seen, brimming with plant-based biotin and vitamins B6, A, C and E – all of which strengthen hair follicles.
02. HAIR OIL L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Metal Detox Oil, £26 This genius oil contains glicoamine, a clever molecule that prevents excess copper from building up inside hair fibre, leaving your strands looking stronger and healthier. 03. LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER TREATMENT Pattern Leave-In Conditioner, £25 A light but thirstquenching addition to your wash-day line-up, especially for type 3 curlies. Oh, and can we take a moment of appreciation for the stunning design? This Hair of Mine Scalp Serum, £46 Applying this serum to your hair before you wash it is surely the best way to kick off your routine. The ingredients not only help to prevent hair loss, but they soothe irritation as well. 04. SCALP 03 04 01 02 C o s m o p o l i ta n 101
Fragrance Shout out to the stunning scents that exceeded our expectations this year 03 01 04 02 05 1 02 01. MUSKY 02. FLORAL 03. WOODY 04. FRUITY 05. SWEET Boy Smells Hinoki Fantôme Cologne de Parfum, £105 for 65ml An amazing fragrance inspired by the brand’s famous Hinoki Fantôme candle. With tobacco leaves and other smoky notes, this is the ultimate date-night scent. Dior J’Adore Parfum D’Eau £63 for 30ml A first from Dior, this innovative alcohol-free perfume is made of just water and floral oils, with notes of fresh neroli, crisp jasmine sambac and dashes of Chinese magnolia. Molton Brown Rose Dunes Eau de Parfum, £120 for 100ml One spritz will transport you to a cosy evening at a countryside hotel. Sandalwood blends with heady patchouli for a comforting, long-lasting warmth. Miller Harris Myrica Muse Eau de Parfum, £95 for 50ml Pops of strawberry and bayberry give this scent an instant freshness, while creamy rose and touches of rum add a rich twist that grounds the perfume. Prada Paradoxe Eau de Parfum, £83 for 50ml Vanilla and amber give this perfume an expensive sweetness that’s more creamy than candy-like. White musk deepens the scent and allows it to linger all day (and all night). C o s m o p o l i ta n
READ Tools and tech Whether you’re a beauty amateur or a total pro, these are the innovations you need on your radar. Trust us HAIR STRAIGHTENERS B e a u t y Awa rd s SKIN CLEANSING TOOL HAIR TREATMENT INNOVATION Foreo Luna 4, £239 This cleansing tool works wonders even on sensitive skin and is proven to remove 99% of dirt, oil and make-up residue. Olaplex Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment, from £30 An in-salon treat to reset hair and remove build-up before colour or chemical services. HAIR DRYER MAKE-UP BRUSHES Hot Tools Professional Dual Plate Salon Straightener, £129.99 This styler eliminates the need for multiple passes over the hair = way less damage. Beauty Works Aeris Lightweight Digital Hair Dryer, £180 At only 300g, this is by far one of the lightest blow dryers around. The motor also dries hair six times faster than traditional ones. HAIR WAVER HAIR CURLER BaByliss Wave Secret Air, £150 Quite possibly the easiest way to cheat cool-girl waves that we’ve ever tried. Quick, efficient and works on every hair texture, too. Remington PROluxe You Adaptive Wand, £69.99 No more scorched strands – built-in tech reads the temperature of your hair, adjusting the heat as you style. HOT BRUSH HAIRBRUSH Revlon One-Step Volumiser Plus, £69.99 The viral TikTok hair tool now features a slimmer oval brush that can get closer to the roots for extra lift. Imbue Curl Define & Style Brush, £9.99 This multitasking brush has not left our hair toolkit. From defining curls to aiding blow-dries, it’s a great styling aid. Morphe Vegan Pro Brush Series, from £8 each A professional-worthy brush range that won’t make a dent on your wallet – the vegan synthetic bristles are so incredibly soft they make blending a dream. C o s m o p o l i ta n 1 03
READ Pa r t y b o ot s P a r t y s h o e s b o o t s 104 C o s m o p o l i ta n
READ Pa r t y b o ot s GLITTER Alek wears: blazer, Area at Koibird; shorts, Area at Mytheresa; earrings, vintage Christian Dior at Susan Caplan; boots, Alexandre Vauthier Rhinestones, vinyl, crushed velvet – this season’s party boots have some serious main character energy going down and we’re here for it P H O T O G R A P H Y: C A R L A G U L E R FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R : S A S K I A Q U I R K E C o s m o p o l i ta n 105
READ Pa r t y b o ot s VELVET Altynay wears: dress and boots, both Stella McCartney; bag, Delvaux. Alek wears: dress and boots, both Stella McCartney; bag, Delvaux 106 C o s m o p o l i ta n
PLATFORMS Alek wears: dress, Aggi at Wolf & Badger; socks, Tabio; boots, Stuart Weitzman C o s m o p o l i ta n 1 07
R E A D Pa r t y b o ot s JEWELLED Alek wears: dress, Poster Girl; bag, Benedetta Bruzziches; boots, Paris Texas. Altynay wears: dress, Poster Girl; bag, Benedetta Bruzziches; boots, Paris Texas 108 C o s m o p o l i ta n
READ Pa r t y b o ot s WESTERN Altynay wears: denim jacket and shorts, both Maje; earrings, Susan Caplan; boots, Russell & Bromley C o s m o p o l i ta n 109
R E A D Pa r t y b o ot s THIGH-HIGH Alek wears: dress, Mach & Mach; boots, Isabel Marant 110 C o s m o p o l i ta n
READ Pa r t y b o ot s WHITES Alek wears: top and jeans, both Raquette; earrings, Mayol; boots, Miu Miu. Altynay wears: top and skirt, both Aje; boots, Russell & Bromley C o s m o p o l i ta n 111
READ Pa r t y b o ot s METALLICS Altynay wears: shirt and skirt, both Maje; earrings, Sylvia Toledano at Fenwick; boots, By Far. Alek wears: dress, Annie’s Ibiza; boots, By Far 112 C o s m o p o l i ta n
MODELS: ALEK AND ALTYNAY AT WILHELMINA MODELS. HAIR: CHRISTOPHER GATT AT FRANK AGENCY USING ORIBE HAIRCARE. MAKE-UP: MARY-JANE GOTIDOC USING YSL BEAUTY. MANICURIST: LOUI-MARIE EBANKS USING OPI. PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: DANIEL WALKER. FASHION ASSISTANTS: COURTNEY SMITH; CHARLOTTE HARNEY READ Pa r t y b o ot s VINYL Alek wears: coats, both Joseph; earrings, Astrid & Miyu; bag, Coperni at Koibird; boots, Emporio Armani C o s m o p o l i ta n 113

Surviving Christmas when you’re not out Page 117 The performance art of breaking up Page 118 The secret to really great orgasms Page 122 The state of romance right now Page 124 l ove The sexiest sex scenes for your winter viewing W O R D S : TAY L O R A N D R E W S 1. Sex/Life Fast-forward to: Season one, episode one, 32 minutes and 41 seconds in. A New York rooftop, a pool and four minutes of unbridled horniness when Billie and Brad finally get it on. Mother, may I? Watch on: Netflix C o s m o p o l i ta n 115
LOV E S ex s c e n e s 4. Dark Desire Fast-forward to: Season one, episode one, 21 minutes in. A fantasy your libido has been craving: sex that starts on the kitchen counter and gets juuuust the right amount of kinky. I’ll never look at a belt the same way again. Watch on: Netflix 2 5. Elite Fast-forward to: Season three, episode five, 24 minutes in. 7 Underwater sex is totally a thing – and even hotter in the form of a male-male-female threesome. Watch on: Netflix 6. Bridgerton 3 Fast-forward to: Season one, episode five, 52 minutes in. This 1800s-era scene lasts, no joke, almost five whole minutes. What you’ll see: dirty talk, partnered masturbation, P-in-V sex and abs. Lots and lots of abs. Watch on: Netflix 8 2. Normal People Fast-forward to: Season one, episode 12, three minutes and 40 seconds in. Floor sex + pinned arms in missionary + a ride on top = your horny dose of TV for the day. And considering the trajectory of these two characters’ love story (IYKYK), the passion is unreal. Watch on: BBC iPlayer 5 3. The Bold Type Fast-forward to: Season four, episode 16, 38 minutes and 40 seconds in. There’s something about a steamy kiss, in front of wide-open windows, while stripped down to bras and undies, that just… well, I’ll let the picture do the talking on this one. Watch on: Prime Video 6 116 C o s m o p o l i ta n 7. Chemical Hearts Fast-forward to: 52 minutes and 15 seconds in. Sure, it’s tender, it’s passionate, it’s slow… and also kind of fumbly. But it just works, okay? Watch on: Prime Video 8. Insecure Fast-forward to: Season four, episode seven, 11 minutes and 50 seconds in. This one’s dedicated to all you exhibitionist kinksters because, hello, did someone say holiday balcony sex? Watch on: Available to buy PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY; NETFLIX; WARNER MEDIA 4 Hello, did someone say holiday balcony sex?
LOV E Surviving Christmas Kristen Stewart and Mackenzie Davis’ characters feel the family pressure in Happiest Season If you’re LGBTQIA+ and not out to your family, misgendering or awkward assumptions about your sexuality can make Christmas at home feel like an ordeal. It’s hard, but there are tricks to manage the situation, reduce the stress and prepare yourself mentally: just keep reading, we’ve got you. The cousin who is low-key homophobic WORDS: MEGAN WALLACE. PHOTOGRAPHY: MOVIESTILLSDB.COM How to survive Christmas if you’re not out to your family Your festive guide to dodging awkward questions and correcting hurtful assumptions Shuddering when you mention Pride or only associating rainbows with the NHS, your cousin is a walking microaggression. Counter subtle digs with direct action – call them out when they come up. ‘Often, the best solution is to gently but firmly correct the person in the moment,’ says queer relationship therapist Chris Grant. Some friendly education is also a good idea, even if it’s just forwarding your fave LGBTQIA+ TikToks. The parent asking about your boyfriend when you’re bisexual Normally, you tell your mum everything, but you’re not sure how she’ll react to your blossoming sapphic romance. Don’t feel bad about glossing over any questions. ‘A lot of us will feel guilty about not sharing aspects of our lives,’ says Grant. ‘But you don’t owe access to this information unless you feel safe to share.’ The uncle who misgenders you Your uncle keeps using ‘she’ pronouns for you, but your friends have been calling you ‘they/them’ for a year. These exchanges are uncomfortable and can feel invalidating: make sure you take time to properly decompress after being with the family. ‘Ensure you have built in self-care before, during and after your visit,’ says Grant. This can be as simple as connecting with your queer community online. The intrusive questions over pigs in blankets Having prepared phrases – whether a light-hearted deflection or a go-to response – in your back pocket can be a great help during awkward dinner moments. Think of ways to deflect any unwanted queries about your sexuality or gender before you come home for Christmas. ‘What we’re talking about here is how to establish and maintain a boundary,’ says Grant. ‘Anyone can ask you a direct question, but that doesn’t mean you owe them an answer.’ The moment you decide to open up If you think you’re ready, start by identifying a sympathetic relative and tell them one-onone in a safe space. Remember, you’re doing them a favour. ‘Think about it in terms of inviting your family further into your life rather than coming out as a confessional to them,’ says Grant. C o s m o p o l i ta n 117
118 C o s m o p o l i ta n The performance art of bre a kin g p u
LOV E W he n B re a k i n g u p o n l i n e M ia M er ca do br ok eu WO R D S : M I A M E RC A D O CO LL AG E S : L AU R A W E I LE R pw ith h er p artne r, s h e fo u n d unexpected comfort in the online splits of celebrities C o s m o p o l i ta n 119
LOV E B re a k i n g u p o n l i n e Anyway, when the relationship was over, he moved out and I began to post more about myself. I shared about my job, my sister and, every so often, I’d nod to my newly single status: Tinder is so bad! Did I mention I’m on Tinder? I uploaded pics of my globe-trotting adventures so people would know I was ‘getting out there’. Navigating my raw singleness on social media certainly didn’t feel natural, but I was resigned to a certain set of facts: our lives were moving online, so our breakups had to, as well. That only became more true in the intervening years, during which time I became something of a cultural anthropologist of social media breakup performance, with a particular emphasis on celebrities, aka the originators of turning personal news into capital-C Content. And bless them: who among us doesn’t want to know all the specifics of that level of split? Who is above pondering which famous person’s PR team gets the first pass at the announcement or which of them will keep running the dog’s Instagram account? I find myself analysing each and every detail of these uncouplings, and not to make light of what they’re going through, but... we’re living in an incredibly ripe moment for field research. T he recent past has added some truly peak entries into the Record of Processing Breakups Publicly, particularly in the music category, where heartache has been artfully sublimated into emotional catharsis slash some genuinely stirring shit. I am still wondering how Jake Gyllenhaal is holding up since Taylor Swift’s 10-minute, scorched-earth re-release of All Too Well and weeping every time Adele’s Easy On Me comes on the radio. As for Drivers License and all the other addictive, deliciously petty hit singles on Sour, let me be perfectly clear: Olivia Rodrigo, I will *never* get over it. But if breakup music is the soundtrack to my studies, the moving-on behaviour of the blue-tick crowd is a dissertation topic unto itself. There are posts winkingly designed to fan the flames of speculation (see: Taylor Swift’s grid cull of Calvin Harris) and the PR playbook moves meant to cut off oxygen completely (which never actually work). A bloodless ‘wish them all the best’ statement, a dress worn during a postbreakup interview, a bio tweak: it all invites dissection. Saying nothing constitutes something. Oh my god, he’s not even acknowledging the divorce? Wow. The truth for us normals is: when you’re emotionally devastated and Very Online, even if you don’t know what to say, you do have some off-the-shelf options. There are memes to recirculate; various categories of ‘revenge’ content ranging from compellingly vindictive to saccharine narratives of personal growth. There are illustrated affirmations and widely circulated poems: sterile alternatives to the reality that you haven’t showered since Tuesday and today is Monday. But a well-utilised meme can only take anyone so far. And communicating the contours of your breakup grief requires 120 C o s m o p o l i ta n
LOV E getting into the specifics of your particular experience. That’s why we have a common language for the good parts of relationships – ‘soft launching’ a significant other; announcing an engagement or a baby (‘sooo, we did a thing!’) – but not one for our more complex feelings about relationships that end. And now for the Alex Rodriguez part of the story. Honestly, I’ve never been more invested in him than after his split from Jennifer Lopez-now-Affleck, during which he alternated between posting thirst traps and mournful tributes to their love. To quote famous philosopher Marie Kondo, ‘I love mess,’ and I should therefore probably be under police surveillance for the number of times I’ve watched the IG Story in which Rodriguez pans over a graveyard of J-Rod photos (and what appears to be one lone snap of Judy Garland ‘Expressing vulnerability is a gamble for empathy’ B re a k i n g u p o n l i n e and Barbra Streisand, for unclear reasons) while Coldplay’s Fix You whines on. You could chalk up my obsession to a certain kind of pleasure at seeing a beefy sportsman be so endearingly mushy; you could also make a case that his post was highly calculated. But it’s the unique display of heartache – which, for 10 seconds, dispenses with the ‘act’ of grieving and encapsulates how it actually is – that gets me. No matter who you are, expressing vulnerability is a gamble for empathy. Feeling seen, as they say, is kind of the reward. N ot that you have to be super obvious about it. I’ve found artist Anna Marie Tendler’s TikToks to be a subtextual masterclass in the art of moving forwards even when maybe what you actually want to do is lie on the floor. After being blindsided by comedian John Mulaney’s petition to divorce, Tendler posted her first-ever video last year, in which she delicately walked viewers through the notoriously annoying process of putting on a duvet cover; in a follow-up life hack the next day, she used a vegetable peeler to perfectly butter a slice of cinnamon raisin toast. What strikes me about this content is the subtle resilience in her competent handling of domestic endeavours. Making the bed by yourself, eating breakfast alone: these are the routine but sharply painful things we do by ourselves when the person that we used to do them with is gone. The first picture I posted after that breakup seven years ago was, for some reason, a meticulously arranged vignette of trinkets: anchor-shaped bookends, one miniature box of fake doughnuts, a pair of ceramic lemons and three big wooden letters that spelled ‘YES’. As in, yes, my boyfriend of four years and I recently split. And yes, this obscure still life is how I’ve elected to process my feelings about it in a digital format. The image itself wasn’t immediately recognisable as a breakup post – although if you read the caption, you’d start to get the idea that I was feeling a little unhinged: ‘In this edition of Mia Buys Things Impulsively, I try to justify to a salesperson at Hobbycraft why I need a miniature box of doughnuts. Spoiler alert: I don’t! #yes #lemons #bookends #doughnuts #thisisacryforhelp.’ The inclusion of the final hashtag – yes, we still hashtagged on Instagram then – was equal parts self-deprecating joke and legitimate SOS. I wanted anyone following along to know that I was going through something. But I didn’t want to get into it. Actually, that’s a lie. I wanted to. What I posted was, whether I realised it or not, a dog whistle for exactly what I needed: validation from the friends who’d be able to read between the lines and see the messy thing I was going through. Even if I wasn’t sure how to share it yet. MIA MERCADO is the author of Weird But Normal and the essay collection She’s Nice Though. Her writing has been published in The New Yorker, The New York Times and The Cut. For more breakup musings, head to cosmopolitan.com/uk/how-to-deal-with-a-break-up C o s m o p o l i ta n 121
The coital alignment technique is the secret to SUPERintense orgasms And that ultra-connected, best-ever sex you’re craving W O R D S : R A C H E L VA R I N A 122 C o s m o p o l i ta n
LOV E G re a t i n b e d All the tricks and tweaks you need It’s the classic TV sex scene: two very attractive people envelop each other in a passionate embrace before falling on to the bed. Their eyes lock. And then they’re having missionary sex so steamy, you forget the position often leaves a lot to be desired. Because in a classic real-life sex scenario, missionary – despite being the go-to for romantic, hungover or just plain fast sex – is actually less than ideal for people with vaginas. The lack of clitoral stimulation means a lot of people never reach, or even get close to reaching, orgasm. Enter a subtle but effective modification known as the coital alignment technique (CAT). If that sounds familiar, it’s probably because you heard about it back when we were all watching Netflix’s steamy series Sex/Life, in which very horny character Billie gushes about just-as-horny character Brad’s use of this method. In her own words, ‘When done right, it provides the ultimate connection, both physical and emotional. I felt closer to him than I had to anyone.’ The whole point of CAT is – as its name suggests – to align your genitals with your partner’s for maximum stimulation. And instead of fast or deep thrusting, it’s about slower, more vertical strokes that focus on clitoral access (or as a friend recently explained it, ‘You know how it’s easier to finish when you’re on top? CAT is like being on top... from the bottom.’) Read on to learn how exactly to practise CAT and all the tips that will make it legit life-changing for you. Hold on tight The person penetrating on top should grip their partner’s shoulders to avoid backsliding into standard missionary. This makes that orgasm-inducing, clit-rubbing vertical movement easier. Go oh-so-slow Slow and steady is the name of the game. To start, one partner presses their clitoris against the other’s pubic bone then starts grinding – like dry humping but without any pesky clothes in the way. Between one partner’s vertical rubbing and the other’s upward strokes, the sensations will slowly build. Add some slickness As always, lube = the key to great sex. Apply plenty to both partners’ genitals to get that sweet, slippery sensation you both love. If you want to turn things up, grab some warming or tingling lube for even more powerful sensations. Use a pillow prop Having trouble getting the right angle or just want to perfect that feel-good forwards rub? Prop the receiver’s hips up with a pillow, wadded-up blanket or stuffed animal (sorry, Mr Cuddles). This makes clitoral stimulation easier because the elevation puts your clit front, centre and ready for action. Get extra passionate This move is all about connection – it fosters full-body, full-genital and just general all-over erogenous contact, so embrace the fact that your partner’s body could literally not be closer to yours. Lingering eye contact and deep kisses are encouraged. Elevate the sexperience There’s no reason you can’t make things even hotter. Wear a blindfold to block out distractions. Use a vibrating cock ring for a buzzier grind. Get a glass of ice or some body-safe hot wax for a bit of surprising temperature play. Keep at it Practice makes perfect, and most couples need at least a few tries to really get the hang of CAT. Just have fun and don’t stress if it takes a little finessing to master. ‘When done right, it provides the ultimate connection, both physical and emotional. I felt closer to him than I had to anyone’ – Billie on Netflix’s Sex/Life How it’s done PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY 1 . The person being penetrated lies flat on their back, while the person doing the penetrating positions their pelvis atop the other’s and slides into them. 2 . The penetrating partner puts the weight of their torso on the other’s chest (versus lifting themselves up on their forearms). 3 . The bottom person wraps their legs around their partner’s outer thighs at a 45-degree angle, resting their ankles on their partner’s calves. 4 . The person being penetrated rocks their hips upwards, pressing their clitoris into the base of their partner’s penis or strap-on. The top partner thrusts downwards. SOURCE: CERTIFIED SEX THERAPIST RACHEL SMITH C o s m o p o l i ta n 123
LOV E Ke e p i n g s c o re Love by numbers WORDS: VE RON ICA LOPEZ A D D I T I O N A L R E P O R T I N G : J E N N I F E R S AV I N Whether you’re single, locked down or something in between, here’s your official update on all things romance in the year 2022 (because, hey, we’re nosy like that… and we bet you are, too). The biggest takeaway: love is not dead! In fact, it’s out here thriving. Feast your eyes on this nobullsh*t, straight-from-the-source(s) proof 1 24 C o s m o p o l i ta n
Sex Dating Marriage and divorce 12 30 6.4 62 — 43.9 — % 24 36 4.2 — 46.4 43 38 87 — 32 years... 25 33.8 years 45 — 71 8 81 23.5 80 5.2 — 3,400,000 % 57 68,000 2.6 Marriage rates dropped % of you ‘aren’t sure’ about monogamy, and... % of you are having more sex than before the pandemic % PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES. STATS COMPILED FROM DATA SHARED BY INNER CIRCLE, A SURVEY OF OVER 1,500 COSMOPOLITAN READERS AND THE OFFICE FOR NATIONAL STATISTICS of singles say they’re more interested in long-term relationships now than they were before the pandemic % of Gen Z singles suffer from datingrelated social anxiety. Case in point: mentions of the word ‘awkward’ in Tinder bios are up by % since the end of 2020 % of you said money is very important in a match... ...while the number of you who say the bill should be split 50:50 no matter what is… % (with a further 14% saying that whoever earns more should pick up the bulk) of you have been in love with more than one person at once % now think it’s more socially acceptable to meet a love interest at a singles’ party, according to the Inner Circle app % of people on dating apps admit they’ve used them more while WFH than they did on pre-pandemic workdays % are masturbating more frequently % are using sex toys more often, too % between 2018 and 2019. Marriage rates for oppositesex couples have fallen to their lowest on record since 1862 in every 10 marriages end in divorce % of divorces are initiated by women is the average age of a woman going through a divorce is the average age of a man going through a divorce and 3 months is the average age a woman in an opposite-sex relationship marries. For same-sex couples it’s… Back in 1999, the average age was 29 years and 4 months for women (and 31 years and 6 months for men) % of you say it’s okay to have sex on the first date months is the average engagement length % of marriages still see at least one person change their name % of 25 to 34year-olds and of 16 to 24-year-olds identify as lesbian, gay, bisexual or ‘other’ (a rise of 5.5% over the past five years). In comparison to… % of 35 to 49-year-olds is the estimated number of unmarried couples who are living together in the UK % agree there is no set time frame to wait to have sex is the estimated number of same-sex married couples who are living together C o s m o p o l i ta n 125
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The last page In my nightstand DJ of the moment Eliza Rose on the books and beauty must-haves she keeps by her bed WORDS: DUSTY BA XTER-WRIGHT What’s on top? Garnier face mask, loads of The Ordinary bits and Simple face cream. Got any snacks? Yes! Definitely. Peak relaxation is eating in bed. Products I always have... Hyaluronic acid from The Ordinary is my go-to. It keeps me looking fresh after a late night. The drawers: organised or a beautiful mess? Beautiful mess, despite my best efforts. 130 C o s m o p o l i ta n Most surprising item? Haribo! Books by the bed? At the moment I’m rotating two: The Lonely Londoners by Sam Selvon, and The Silence Of The Girls by Pat Barker. The number of alarms I need... Two. I like to snooze for 10 to 20 minutes. My prize sleep possession... I love an eye mask and sometimes earplugs. I’m a light sleeper. ELIZA ROSE’S SINGLE B.O.T.A. (BADDEST OF THEM ALL) IS OUT NOW PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOEBE COWLEY My overall nightstand vibe Organised mess!