STAY IN AN AMAZING SUFFOLK LIGHTHOUSE WITH A CELEBRITY PAST
coast
NOVEMBER 2023	BECAUSE LIFE IS BETTER BY THE SEA
DISCOVER NEW COASTAL
ACTIVITIES TO TRY
Get outdoors and enjoy our shores
A WEEKEND
IN BUDE
Head for a fabulous
Cornish resort
MOVE TO IRELAND
Insider tips on best coastal
communities, price guides &
essential property info
PORTLAND BILL
Visit a special spot to see
amazing birdlife and
natural wonders
TRAVEL SCOTLAND’S
gCOAST TO COAST ROSEE^
foot, bike or boat
WINE EXPERT
OZ CLARKE
‘Cheers to my favourite
FOUR SHORELINE WALKS
In Cornwall, Flintshire, Kent & the West Highlands
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nerfolk
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coastal hideawa
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With its beautiful sandy beaches, big skies, pretty villages and wonderful coastal walks,
Norfolk is the perfect choice when it comes to choosing a holiday destination here in the UK.
From cosy cottages to luxury retreats close to beautiful sandy beaches, in rural hotspots or in the
middle of quaint market towns, we've got something for everyone. Many of our properties are dog
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—CONTENTS—
NOVEMBER 2023
S Cover story
FEATURES
24 ALL ABOARD FOR FUN An
easy way to ‘own’ a boat
26 ® ACTION STATIONS Great
coastal activities for you to try
35 ® COAST TO COAST A route
which links Scotland’s shores
51 ROBE REVIVAL Beach towelling
is getting a new lease of life
57 ® WEEKEND IN BUDE Spend
a fab time in this Cornish resort
71 e WELSH WONDER Stay in a
beautiful Pembrokeshire cottage
102 CASTING OFF Fab designs from
a Cornish knitwear maker
HOMES & PROPERTY
[72 ®SUPERSPOTS FORSALE
Our selection of 10 of the very
best coastal homes to come
onto the market this month
77 ® MOVE TO IRELAND Guide
to buying on the Emerald Isle
89 MOVING ADVICE Our
relocation expert’s latest news
90 ® DREAM HOME Inside the
iconic Suffolk lighthouse to rent
97 TRINKETS AND BAUBLES Time
to dress your home for the festive
season, says our interiors expert
coast
DISCOVER NEW COASTAL
ACTIVITIES TO TRY
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Cover image: A kayak on Elgol
beach on the Isle of Skye, with
sea loch Scavaig beyond.
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 3
BEACH
RETREATS
►
Self-catering holidays by the§^sS
01637 861005 | beachretreats.co.uk | @beachretreats
—CONTENTS—
NOVEMBER 2023
REGULARS
8 PICTURE THIS A striking
photograph of the lighthouse at
Burnham-on-Sea in Somerset
11 BEACHCOMBER All the latest
news, art, people, style and
happenings by the sea
16 SUBSCRIBE TO COAST... And
save up to £46 on the shop price
when you sign up for our deal
18 10 THINGS TO DO Great ideas
for getting out this month and
enjoying events on our shores
23 AND THERE’S ANOTHER
THING Columnist Martin Dorey
celebrates his home town
surf life saving club, which has
had a very special year
38 COAST CONFIDENTIAL
The inside track on great things
happening on our shores, plus
latest coastal fashions
40 COAST COMPETITION Win a
stay for six on the Norfolk coast in
a fabulous luxury cottage
41 MARINAS NEWS Updates on all
things boating and berthing with
our round-up of the latest news
44 ® THE SHIPPING FORECAST
Our columnist enjoys the natural
wonders and the dramatic
landscape around Portland Bill
63 COAST CHARACTER Meet the
Great Yarmouth entertainer with
showbusiness in his DNA
64 HOT HOTEL Stay in this
delightful spot with a rugged
outlook on the Cornwall coast
68 ® COASTAL WALKING A new
study shows the economic benefits
of walking along our shores
100 SEADOGS Products and holiday
ideas for coastal canine owners,
plus six Dogs of the Month
104 HOWTO BUY A COPY Easy
ways to buy a copy of Coast plus
how to contact the team
106 ® MY COAST Wine expert Oz
Clarke on his longstanding love
for so much of Kent’s shore
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 5
COTTAGES
Let your holiday home with
the local experts...
Own an inspiring home or looking to invest in a holiday rental? With
nine regional offices and over 30 years’ experience, Toad Hall Cottages
deliver a level of local service unmatched in the industry, combining
hands-on support and invaluable knowledge from local teams with
the marketing power and expertise of an industry leading agency.
COaStED'S LETTER
WELCOME
remember many years ago in the
months after the flash flooding which
overwhelmed the coastal village of
Boscastle in Cornwall, I would regularly
find myself walking on the beach at
Saunton in north Devon and
encountering a series of single shoes.
Finding the odd flip-flop whilst on the
beach is, of course, par for the course.
But when one discovers dozens of training
shoes, walking boots and patented, black
shoes along the shoreline, there has to be
away materials swept into the sea in
Cornwall were now being regularly found
on the beach where the natural flow of the
water was depositing them.
We should perhaps spend more time
looking down when we are on the beach.
Because as we reveal as part of our
feature on coastal activities this month, you
never know what you might find.. .or what
its back story might be.
So next time you’re on a beach walk,
perhaps don’t just take the flotsam and
some sort of wider explanation.
And indeed there was. One of the
buildings swept away in that dreadful flood
-which, thankfully, did not claim any lives
- was a shop that sold shoes. And here I
was, some months later, discovering for
myself just how powerful and fascinating
the tides can be. Because some 50 miles
jetsam which lies around you for granted.
And, by the way, did you know there is a
defined difference between those two? I,
for one, will now take a little longer to think
about how it made its fascinating journey
to our shores.
Until next time.. .and enjoy the magazine.
FOLLOW US ON
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0 @coastmaguk
f facebook.com/coastmagazine
Andy Cooper
Editor
□ @coastmaged
0 @coastmaged
E andy.cooper@kelsey.co.uk
You can email us at coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk. For existing subscription queries,
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---------------THE CREW---------------
Introducing some of the team who helped bring the Coast pages to you this month
NICOLA BRADY
Nicola is an award-winning
travel writer based in Dublin.
Originally from Sussex, she
moved to the west coast of
Ireland over 16 years ago, and
is encouraging you to do the
same in this issue’s ‘Move To’
feature, in which she sums up the best that the Irish
coastline has to offer.
ДКАТЕ CHAPMAN
Kate Chapman is a qualified
journalist with more than 20
years’ writing experience for a
variety of national newspapers,
magazines and websites. She
loves the coast and
countryside and living in rural
1 Lincolnshire allows her to enjoy the best of. In this
1 issue Kate explores one of Lincolnshire’s iconic
I landmarks - the Sir Peter Scott Lighthouse.
SUE McQUEENIE
Sue McQueenie is a qualified
journalist who now runs a PR
and marketing company in
Exeter. Living in Devon means
the county’s beautiful beaches
and the glorious South West
Coast Path are in easy reach
I for those weekends when she’s not at St James
* Park, the home of Exeter City Football Club!
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 7
coast PICTURE THIS
REFLECTIVE
RECOLLECTION
This striking photograph of the lighthouse at Burnham-on-Sea in Somerset was
taken by Andrew Child, who is based in Poole, Dorset.
Andrew explains: “I walked all around the site to get the best angle for this shot
with the reflection in the pool that had been left when the tide went out.
“My interest in photography started over 40 years ago after my parents bought
me a camera for my 15th birthday and I was hooked, so after starting work I
saved up and brought my first SLR camera and two lenses and I have never
looked back.
“It was the advent of digital cameras that allowed me to push my photography
to the next level. I attend local art and craft shows to sell my photos and greeting
cards and I get a buzz when people buy one of my photos or cards.
“Living in Dorset means I have easy access to the coast - whether it be the
sandy beaches of Poole and Bournemouth or the wild coast of Portland and
Chesil Beach.”
• See more of Andrew’s work at dorsetgallery.com.
coast PICTURE THIS
Cornwall's holiday cottage experts for over 50 years
Owners who let with us enjoy the best of both worlds; the
benefits of a local office in Redruth, combined with the
marketing spend of a national company, to ensure your
property gets the exposure and bookings it deserves.
With an optional fully managed service, holiday letting with
us has never been easier.
Contact our owner team today:
Call | 01326 331173
Email | enquiry@cornishcottageholidays.co.uk
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Owner's Guide!
• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •
BEACHCOMBER
Every month, we trawl the nation’s coastline to bring you news of the
people, places and exciting events that are worth knowing about
FIND OF THE MONTH
The work ofNewcastle printmaker Heather Moore is inspired by the North Sea coastline and the vibrant
colours of nature. On beach walks, she loves hunting for pretty shells andpebbles, as captured here in
Pebble Cairn, a limited edition lino print. (£350, thepeacockandtheprintmaker.com)
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 11
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• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •
Compiled each month by Caroline Wheater
CATCH OF THE DAY
1 THIS BAG
Pop everything you need for
a day at the beach into a
thick cotton canvas Shells
tote bag by Holly Woodman,
a pattern inspired by days on
the Cornish coastline and the
Isles of Scilly. (£76,
hollywoodmantextiles, com)
; 2 THIS CUSHION
Seaforth Designs in Solva on
the Pembrokeshire coast is
the go-to place for gorgeous
handmade cushions
featuring seaside motifs,
from boats and lighthouses
to puffins and scallop shells.
(£49, seaforthdesigns.com)
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3THIS STRIPY TOP
Get the nautical look and feel
in a striped roll neck top by
t-shirt specialists Lavender
Hill, the comfy piece is made
from ribbed cotton and also
comes in a cute sleeveless
version. (£59,
lavenderhillclothing. com)
4 THIS TUMBLER
Add a seaside touch to a
drinks party with a turquoise
dappled tumbler, handmade
in Italy and sourced by
interior designer Joanna
Wood; there’s also a nibbles
bowl in the same pattern.
(£23, joannawood.com)
WHAT’S FLOATING YOUR BOAT? Let us know on our Facebook page, facebook.com/coastmagazine, or email us at coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk
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PROVOCATIVE ART IN EASTBOURNE
The Turner Prize, the world’s leading prize for contemporary art,
will be the centrepiece of Towner Eastbourne gallery’s centenary
celebrations this autumn. Tate Britain is the home of the Turner
Prize, but it regularly travels outside of London, visiting Margate
in 2019 and Liverpool in 2022.
Work by the four shortlisted artists will be on show until
January 14, 2024, with the announcement of the winner on
December 5. Says Joe Hill, director of Towner Eastbourne: ‘The
event will allow current and new audiences to experience some
of the very best in contemporary art in our brand new galleries,
and there are more events planned across the town to coincide
with the exhibition.” townereastbourne.org.uk
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SL0WFASHI0N
Two years ago, Elizabeth Cake founded A Circular
Story, a sustainable fashion label based in Ramsgate,
Kent. With vintage equipment she hand-makes
clothes from pre-loved fabrics such as embroidered
linen tablecloths, antique quilts and woollen blankets.
Pockets, visible mends and patchwork are signature
motifs.
Elizabeth explains: “Moving to Ramsgate ten years
ago has influenced my work. There is a supportive
creative community here and in TTianet as a whole.
There are also car boot sales, charity shops and
vintage emporiums which are all good sources of
material. Plus, of course, the beach, which is great for
a head-clearing walk when I’ve been hunched over
my sewing machine too long!” acircularstory.co.uk
12 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •
YORKSHIRE’S FINEST
The new Route YC showcases six destinations on the
Yorkshire coast this autumn. Covering 100 glorious miles
of seaside, the route starts at Spurn Head, a dramatic
spit of land that’s also a nature reserve and heads north
up to the golden beaches of Withernsea and Hornsea,
then the clifftops of Filey and Bridlington, and finally the
historic towns of Scarborough and Whitby.
Tom Campbell, the founder and creator of Scotland’s
iconic North Coast 500 trail, is the leader of the initiative.
He says: “Route YC is establishing itself as a leading
touring route, where you can create your own adventure
by bike, motorbike, car, motorhome and by exploring the
many footpaths.”
Themed itineraries include sculpture by the sea, a dog-
friendly route and the ultimate coastal views, such as ‘the
drinking dinosaur’ (pictured), a natural rock formation at
Flamborough Head, routeyc.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHY: ROUTE YC; A CIRCULAR STORY; BEARS ICE CREAM; TOWNER EASTBOURNE
LOTHAR GOTZ, DANCE DIAGONAL, 2019, BY MARC ATKINS; BEDRUTHAN HOTEL
WOMEN’S WELLBEING BREAK
Beautiful sea views, a pool and a spa make the
Bedruthan Hotel near Mawgan Porth in Cornwall a
lovely place to recharge at all year round. But this
autumn the accent will be on women experiencing
the menopause, as a four-day retreat promises to
be uplifting, supportive and educational.
The retreat is led by life coach Alison Theaker
and therapist and counsellor Anna Hope who
has specialised in women’s hormonal problems
for over 20 years. There will be liberating belly
dancing, yoga, meditation and visualisation as well
as time to enjoy the spa and go on coastal walks.
The retreat runs from November 12-16 the price
EXPLORING
NORFOLK’S
DEEP HISTORY
Yn COAST
-=^воокЧ
"/ /А-
DAVIO M G. WATERHOUSE
of £1,350 per person includes accommodation, all meals and snacks, and use of
spa and pool. Book at livelifefonne.org.
CULT ICE CREAM COMES TO KENT
If you’ve ever tasted Bears
Icelandic-inspired ice cream, you’ll
know why people flock to their West
London parlour to enjoy scoops of
artisanal Jersey milk ice cream.
The good news is they’ve arrived
on the south coast, as married
owners Vera Thordardottir and Phil
Harrison have moved their family
from London to open up a new branch in Whitstable. Says Phil: “Vera grew
up by the sea in Reykjavik and I lived on the Cornish coast in my late teens
and we’ve always been drawn back to the ocean.”
Find the new Bears Ice Cream Imaginarium at 81 High Street, Whitstable;
open from 12.30pm to 8pm Monday to Sunday, bearsicecream.co.uk
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□
A mammoth read
The North Norfolk coast has become a
hotspot for archaeologists and fossil
spotters who have found evidence of
ancient times when the county linked
Britain to mainland Europe.
Discoveries include the 500,000-year-
old Happisburgh flint handaxe, a
12,000-year-old polished red deer antler
harpoon used for hunting, and the huge
bones of the West Runton steppe
mammoth which roamed around
Cromer some 700,000 years ago, found
beautifully preserved in a cliff face.
Both the authors are immersed in the
subject having worked for the Norfolk
Museums Service. Expect a thrilling
dive into the stories that surround the
coastline and what to look for when
you’re out and about.
Exploring Norfolk’s Deep History Coast
by John A Davies and David MG
Waterhouse (£15.99, The History Press)
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 13
Find your
special place
From contemporary coastal barn
conversions to charming thatched cottages,
we’ve hand-picked the very best properties
to bring you holiday memories to treasure
Choose from a portfolio of over 600 luxury
self-catering holiday properties across the UK
01386 897 959
ruralretreats.co.uk
n v ©
Do you have a property you would like to let
with Rural Retreats? If so, please get in touch with
one of our experienced Property Managers today.
newowners@ruralretreats.co.uk
SPECIAL DORSET COTTAGES
IN WEST DORSET ON THE
JURASSIC COAST
Special Dorset cottages aren’t easy to find but we have IO really
special holiday cottages on the beautiful Dorset Jurassic Coast
in and around Lyme Regis.
Special Dorset Cottages is not a big cottage agency - we are just
a small group of like-minded owners with great accommodation
in a lovely area at realistic prices.
Some of our cottages have a special discount
on Autumn breaks for Coast Magazine
readers. Use ‘COASTNOV’ promo code
when booking for applicable cottages.
specialdorsetcottages.co.uk/coast
• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •
OP OF THE MONTH
The Fat Seagull, Sandilands, Lincolnshire
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The deli stocks lots of local products such as Farmer Browns ice cream and Myers Plum Loaf; Find a cafe, deli and art
gallery at The Fat Seagull in Sandilands on the Lincolnshire coast, an outlet owned and run by Catherine Hallsworth; Souvenirs from The Fat Seagull;
Sea-themed art works adorn the brick walls of the gallery; Gifts include The Fat Seagull’s own brand vinegar, plus a range of preserves.
fter many years of working in the
hospitality sector, in 2009 Catherine
Hallsworth and her husband Mark
purchased the seafront premises for
their latest venture, The Fat Seagull,
when it was a Post Office and general
store. “We fell in love with the location, Sandilands is a
quiet village with a glorious sandy beach, beach huts
and a promenade,” explains Catherine.
Initially, the couple opened a bistro but when the
pandemic hit, they refocused into a deli with outdoor
dining. “With the bistro closed, we decided to brighten up
the space with work from local artists and it was a hit!”
Three years on and the outdoor seating has been
extended, while indoors the gallery space and deli have
merged to showcase paintings, prints, pottery, candles,
jewellery and cards plus Lincolnshire products Farmer
Browns Ice Cream, Skegness Gin and Myers’ Famous
Lincolnshire Plum Loaf. “Mark has retired now, but we still
bake our own cakes and have a small fresh menu that
includes daily fish and chips,” adds Catherine.
Artists and potters represented include Jo Maltby,
Tony Player, Karen Bates and the Alford Pottery and
Aby Ceramics, original items priced from £10 to £400.
“Customers wander around at leisure and often walk out
with a painting under their arm, having only popped in
for a cappuccino,” says Catherine, who also exhibits her
own greetings cards and prints for which she won a prize
at the nearby Marshchapel Annual Art Exhibition.
• Find the Fat Seagull on Facebook.

PHOTOGRAPHY: THE FAT SEAGULL
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 15
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Editor
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How to make the most of visits to Belfast.
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KENT UNCOVERED
Explore its mix of
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How to choose fish^
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coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 17
coast WHAT’S ON
10 THINGS TO
DO IN NOVEMBER
SU CARROLL rounds up the very best activities to do and
things to see close to the coastline this month
IIN THE DARK
As the nights draw in, it’s the ideal
opportunity for star-gazing. Many of the
country’s National Parks are designated
as Dark Skies areas - including the
Pembrokeshire Coast, South Downs and
Snowdonia. Wander away from the light
pollution of towns and cities and you will
discover the ideal conditions for checking
out the night skies.
Northumberland National Park has very
low levels of light pollution and the whole
area was designated as an International
Dark Sky Park in 2013. Here, on a clear
night, you can see thousands of stars,
the Milky Way and even the Andromeda
Galaxy (2.5 million light years away) with
the naked eye.
Top tips for star-gazing are to wrap up
warm in comfortable clothing and head
for somewhere away from street lights on
a clear night. It’ll take about 20 minutes
to adjust to the darkness but the good
news is that you don’t need expensive
equipment to enjoy the night sky.
northumberlandnationalpark. org. uk
Bamburgh Castle looks
^love5! familiar, it’s because of its
starring role as a location in hit
Netflix series The Last Kingdom. It also
played host to Harrison Ford when he
filmed Indiana Jones and the Dial of
Destiny there. This year it was voted
North East England’s best large visitor
attraction. There’s over 3,000 years of
history at this magnificent fortress
overlooking the sea plus an exhibition
with props and costumes from The Last
Kingdom can be seen in the King’s Hall
until November 5. It returns next year,
February 10-November 3.
bamburghcastle. com
2WARHOL REVISITED
An exhibition of more than 250
Andy Warhol pieces, Three Times Out,
showcases the artist’s extraordinary body
of work created over four decades. Five
years in the making, the show at the
Hugh Lane Gallery in Dublin includes
Warhol’s paintings, prints, photographs,
films and installations, including the iconic
Campbell’s Soup Cans and prints of
Marilyn Monroe (pictured). The exhibition,
until January 28, brings together pieces
from museums and private collections in
the US, Canada, Europe and the Warhol
Museum in Pittsburgh.
One of the most important artists of
the 20th century, Warhol devised new
ways of image making, experimenting
with multiple images silkscreened on
canvas, printing, performance, video and
television. He challenged conventional
canons in art, dismissing traditional
distinctions between fine art and popular
culture, creating enduring images of
Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy and
Chairman Mao. The exhibition also
includes his immersive Silver Clouds
sculpture, hughlane.ie
^*4 Ever seen a statue in a park
%LloveSJ anc* wondered what they were
saying? Wonder no more! A
dozen of Dublin’s most famous
statues will reveal their dramatic stories
on an interactive self-guided walking tour
as a phone app. On Talking Statues actor
Gabriel Byrne voices the story of writer
James Joyce and Andrew Scott shares
tales of Oscar Wilde. Other statues to be
discovered include George Bernard
Shaw, the Meeting Place Statue which
celebrates the city’s Millennium and two
men who fought to improve conditions for
PHOTOGRAPHY: NORTHUMBERLAND NATIONAL PARK/SIMON MCCABE;
AARON WESSLING/THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION; MIKE DAVIDSON
18 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHY: ARTMAKERS; JOSEPH A ROSEN; MARK BLOWER
the poor - Jim Larkin and James
Connolly. On a lighter note there’s Molly
Malone, immortalised in song and the
most photographed statue in the city.
visitdublin.com
5IN THE SWIM
Seaside fashions have come and
gone like the tide and a lovely new
exhibition at Aberdeen Museum shows
how costumes have been influenced by
social and political change, the Hollywood
film industry and innovations in design
and materials.
Making a Splash! at Aberdeen Art
Gallery exhibition showcases a century
of bathing costumes and other highlights
from the Archives, Gallery and Museums’
collection of 20th-century beachwear.
The first bathing gowns were made
in the 1800s, usually of wool, and
covered women who emerged from
bathing machines into the water. Over
the decades swimsuits got shorter and
more form-fitting with deeper necklines
and exposed arms. French designer
Louis Reard created the first two-piece
swimsuit in 1946 and the arrival of man-
made fibres in the 1940s and 50s helped
popularise them.
Much of the collection in Aberdeen
was gifted by Peggy Walker (1924-2016).
Peggy taught dressmaking and costume
design at the Northern College of
Education in the city. She was an expert
on historical costume and her donation
formed the basis of the costume and
textile collection. Making a Splash!
continues until January 14. aberdeencity
gov.uk
The tranquil Johnston Gardens
|.LLovESf have a chilled Japanese feel to
them. In the heart of the city
and only a hectare big, the
garden was gifted to the people in 1936.
Packed with streams, waterfalls, ponds,
rockeries and a rustic bridge. The garden
is planted with acers, rhododendrons,
spring bulbs, heathers and alpines and
the ponds are full of irises, Aylesbury,
Mallard and Muscovy ducks, visitabdn.
com
4QUAY NOTES
'A lovely new venue has opened on
the Quay in Bideford, North Devon. Art
Upstairs is a gallery run by ArtMakers,
a not-for-profit Community Interest
Company committed to promoting
creativity and artistic expression amongst
local artists. The opening exhibition was
by New Atlantic Wave, a collection of
local artists and makers whose works are
inspired by the rich cultural heritage and
breathtaking coastal landscapes within
the region.
ArtMakers founder Phil Parker says
the gallery represents a significant
milestone in a commitment to fostering
creativity and providing a platform for
ArtMakers artists to showcase their
exceptional talents. The new venue will
host a diverse array of exhibitions, events,
artistic programmes and workshops.
The mission is to inspire, engage, and
promote artistic dialogue, creating an
enriching experience for both established
artists and emerging talents. During
the coming weeks, ArtMakers artists
will be leading a number of art and
craft workshops at the National Trust’s
Arlington Court, artmakers.uk
The Big Sheep! The Turner
lL?ovFl familY have been farming here
for six generations. Some 36
years ago they opened The Big
Sheep offering lots of opportunities to see
animals close up. There’s a nursery unit at
the attraction, with new arrivals all year
round. You’ll find lambs, chicks, goats,
collie puppies, piglets, goats and
ducklings. There’s something for
everyone including rollercoaster rides and
pedalos and lots to keep teenagers
occupied, thebigsheep.co.uk
5BLUE NOTES
Tenby Blues Festival is staged in one
of the country’s loveliest seaside towns
in Pembrokeshire Coast National Park,
Wales, memorable for its pretty	—>
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 19
coast WHAT’S ON
pastel-coloured waterside houses. The
first festival was in 2006 and now spans
over three days offering around 50 acts
in 20 different venues throughout the
town. It has a reputation as a friendly
festival, run by real enthusiasts. Many of
the events are free and there’s a lovely
community atmosphere.
It’s an opportunity to see some up-and-
coming artists alongside familiar names.
There are ticketed events with the
likes of Guy Davis (pictured) a multi-
instrumentalist from the USA and a two-
time Grammy nominee, Cardiff-based
Junior Hacksaw and singer songwriter
Kara Grainger who now lives in Nashville.
The festival is brought to a close by the
legendary Dana Gillespie, performing
with the London Blues Band, tenbyblues.
co.uk
Just a 20-minute boat ride
tLLovESJ awaY *s one °f Britain’s Holy
Islands - Caldey. Cistercian
monks have enjoyed more than
a thousand years of prayer and tranquillity
on the island which is a haven for wildlife.
A rat eradication programme has helped
colonies of puffins and red squirrels to
thrive. Open during the summer to day
visitors caledyislandwales.com
6NATURAL WORLD
In The Dance of the People and
the Natural World, Lagos-based artist
Nengi Omuku shares her love of nature
and the sense of safety and serenity it
offers her. The exhibition, which continues
at Hastings Contemporary until March 3,
is the first major solo show in the UK of
new and recent works.
Born in Nigeria, Nengi studied at Slade
School of Rne Art. The work comes from
both a personal place, telling her story
as a gardener and florist, as well as a
collective leaning towards re-immersing
ourselves in nature. Nengi has developed
a distinctive style, which involves applying
oil paint to gesso-prepared composite
strips of the Nigerian fabric sanyan; a
tightly-woven, hand-spun material that is
an important aspect of Nigeria’s cultural
history.
The Hastings show includes two
new pieces along with her largest piece
to date, Eden (2022, pictured) which
includes stools, scatter cushions and
pot plants, echoing Nengi’s own studio
set-up in Lagos. The ensemble invites
visitors to pause and relax, enjoying a
moment of quiet reflection and respite. In
Eden, she invokes a sense of the biblical
paradise and a longing for a pre-fall
state of tranquillity, alongside a sense
of the solace to be found in nature. The
foregrounds of Depose (2022) and Swing
(2022) suggest the influence of Monet’s
garden at Giverny on her work and
her own research into Impressionism.
hastingscontemporary. org
If you’ll pardon the pun, The
^love5! True Crime Museum is in the
‘dead centre’ of town -
opposite the pier. Discover the
dark history of serial killers, gangsters,
psychopaths and more alongside stories
of detectives and the incredible world of
forensics. See a genuine lethal injection
death bed, discover the Hastings Jack
the Ripper suspect and hear killers
confess in the surround sound cinema
cave, truecrimemuseum.co.uk
7BLOCK PARTY
Key moments in history are recalled
in an exhibition of models made entirely
of Lego. Brick History at the National
Museum of Flight at East Fortune, East
Lothian, (until November 5) has more than
30 models created by Edinburgh-based
Lego experts Warren and Teresa Elsmore.
Thousands of bricks have been
used to craft scenes that also include
the extinction of the dinosaurs, the
invention of the wheel, the creation of
China’s Terracotta Army and the arrival
of the Vikings. The birth of the Industrial
Revolution and the women’s suffrage
movement are also depicted, along
with more recent events including the
inauguration of US President, Barack
Obama.
Admission to the exhibition is included
in tickets to the museum, which has
lots for visitors to discover including
iconic aircraft such as a Red Arrows
Hawk and Scotland’s Concorde. The
museum’s Fantastic Flight gallery with
its interactive displays is a wonderful
way to discover how aeroplanes fly.
There’s also a chance to learn about
East Fortune’s wartime heritage in the
attraction’s Fortunes of War exhibition.
nms.ac.uk
The Scottish Seabird Centre in
>LloveS1 North Berwick has been
helping to protect and conserve
marine wildlife and habitats for
over 20 years from its base on the edge
of the Firth of Forth. Explore the stunning
landscape including the iconic Bass Rock
which supports the world’s largest colony
of northern gannets. There are seasonal
boat trips and coastal wildlife tours with
lots to see in the Seabird Centre with its
interactive displays, seabird.org
8LISTEN IN
An innovative project offers visitors
to the Sussex coast a chance to hear
new myths, speculative fiction and poetry
voiced by nine writers of colour. We Hear
You Now is led by the South Downs
National Park Authority’s inaugural writer-
in-residence Alinah Azadeh (pictured) and
locally based emerging writers, poets,
artists, performers and activists.
They can be accessed through 15
listening points across six miles of the
shifting chalk landscape of Seven Sisters
Country Park and Sussex Heritage Coast
or as a digital sound library and texts. The
writers were responding to the history,
myths and topography of Sussex’s
spectacular, rapidly changing landscape.
PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL DODDS; BIP MISTRY
20 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANTONIO CANALETTO/ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/
HIS MAJESTY KING CHARLES III 2023; TIU MAKKONEN; TOBY BUTLER
Starting at the Seven Sisters Country
Park Visitor Centre near Seaford, We
Hear You Now invites the visitor into the
Cuckmere Valley, along rivers, meanders
and the chalk coast, from Seaford to
Eastbourne via Belle Tout Lighthouse
and Beachy Head, stopping at listening
points to download, sit and hear
stories, sevensisters.org. uk/we-hear-you-
now/
Cuckmere Haven Nature
Il?5veLSJ Reserve is part of a Marine
Conservation Zone and offers
plenty of wildlife, including the
chance to see oystercatchers. Sheep and
cattle graze on the cliffs. It’s part of a
dramatic coastline and you can see why
this area was popular with smugglers for
centuries. Today visitors are mainly
walkers, nature lovers and those looking
for adventure on the water.
visiteastboume. com
9WORD PERFECT
Edinburgh’s International Poetry
Festival Push The Boat Out was launched
in 2020 to mark the centenary of the great
Scottish poet Edwin Morgan. The title is
taken from the opening line of his poem
At Eighty. The weekend (November 24-
26) will be a vibrant celebration of poetry
in all its forms - from spoken word to song
COMING SOON
There’s nothing like a
Christmas Market to get
you into the festive spirit.
VisitEngland.co.uk has
picked the best and they
include two coastal ones
- Brighton and Cornwall’s
foodie capital, Padstow.
The Cornish event is
championed by high-profile
local chefs like Rick Stein,
lyrics, hip hop to performance.
There’s an exciting programme of
readings, gigs, workshops, poetry
walks and much more. Look out for
appearances by Hamish Hawk, Inua
Ellams, Karine Polwart, Leyla Jospehine,
Bemz, Dizraeli, Majorie Lotfi, a cocktail
hour with T.S. Eliot prizewinner Joelle
Taylor, and even an appearance by
Jeremy Corbyn.
It’s held at Summerhall, the site of a
brewery in the 18th century. In the early
20th century the University of Edinburgh
Veterinary College was built here and the
beautifully preserved Anatomy Lecture
Room is one of the gems of the venue
today, pushtheboatout.org
Opened in 1835, the Camera
%LloveLSJ Obscura is one of Edinburgh’s
oldest purpose-built attractions.
Originally Short’s Observatory
and Museum of Science and Art, it now
has five fascinating floors packed with
optical illusions, mirror mazes, a vortex
tunnel and puzzles all topped with the
Camera Obscura that offers a 360° view
of the city, camera-obscura.co.uk
Ю ROYAL LOAN
The Ferens Art Gallery in Hull
opened in 1927 and boasts one of
the finest regional art collections in the
Nathan Outlaw and Paul
Ainsworth and food is at
the heart of four days of
activities (December 7-10).
Brighton’s traditional
Christmas Market runs for
a little longer - five weeks
from mid-November to
Christmas Eve. It’s at the
heart of Brighton - close
to The Pavilion and The
Lanes - and the market
entry is free. As well as
the traditional market,
there’s a pop-up Apres Ski
Bar with live music and
rides on the 32-metre Big
Wheel on the seafront. See
padstowchristmasfestival.
co.uk and
brigh tonch ristmasfestival.
com.
country. Visitors can see great paintings
across the centuries - European Old
Masters dating from the 16th century
onwards, especially Dutch and Flemish,
to 20th century British art.
Already home to works by Rembrandt
and Van Dyck, Italian artist Canaletto now
brings a little bit of Venice to the city. His
painting made around 1740, A Regatta
on the Grand Canal, went on display in
October, the fifth and final work loaned
to the gallery as part of a partnership
with Royal Collection Trust that started
in 2017. Normally found in Buckingham
Palace’s Picture Gallery, it is now be the
star attraction as part of an exhibition
using Venice as a theme but drawing on
Hull’s rich maritime history, hcandl.co.uk/
museums-and-galleries/ferens
Hull is proud of its maritime
^loveW history and links to the fishing
%ui\^ industry. There’s a quirky way to
explore the city - The Fish Trail
created by artist Gordon Young in 1992.
Discover 41 life-size fish across the city
centre, taking in the picturesque Old
Town and thriving Fruit Market. Find the
school of 36 tiny anchovies, a ten
feet-long ray, the shark (outside a former
bank) and an electric eel outside an
electrical substation. Download a PDF of
the trail from the website: visithull.org.
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 21
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coast COLUMNIST
And there’s another thing...
This month our columnist MARTIN DOREY is celebrating
a summer of success for Bude Surf Life Saving Club
Surf life saving is not
just prancing about
on the beach in funny
hats, says Martin.
PHOTOGRAPH MARTIN DOREY
	 -	 he summer kicked off with
three exciting events for us
in Bude. 2023 was always
going to be a big year in
Bude Surf Life Saving Club’s
calendar. It marks the 70th
year of surf life saving in the town and
makes Bude’s club the oldest in Europe.
The club was set up in 1953 by
Alan Kennedy, a travelling lifeguard
from Australia who noted that Bude
desperately needed lifeguards due to
its surf and sometimes dangerous sea
conditions. He gathered recruits from
the local youth club and trained them in
life saving techniques developed Down
Under. On August 9,1953 the new
lifesavers passed their Australian Bronze
Medallion and the club was born. The
first recruit to pass was a local lad, Alan
Brock. He is still a member.
Today, as well as acting as a feeder for
the RNLI, surf life saving clubs compete
against each other in events that replicate
life saving techniques.
Surf life saving is a fantastic way to
keep fit, meet people, be active in a
coastal community and to work towards
nationally recognised qualifications. A lot
of our lifeguards start as seven-year-old
Nippers, eventually earning their Beach
Lifeguard Award. In places where work
can be in short supply, surf life saving
offers a career pathway for local kids.
Having trained all year through some
terrible weather conditions on the beach
- in January we trained in the snow - the
Bude Masters team (30 years and over)
competed in the Cornish Championships
in early August, winning it by some
margin.
A couple of weeks later the Bude
Masters entered the British Nationals
competition at Branksome Chine
in Bournemouth. A 61 -strong team
competed against the very best athletes
from 24 other clubs from around the
country. My cruciate injury prevented me
from competing in all but the swim and
board paddling race but I felt really proud
to be part of it as we ended the weekend
as British Champions.
So, back to November. As the white
horses rear up in anger, the big winter
swells arrive and the wind whips around
the beach huts, Bude’s Masters (and
Masters all around the coast) will still be
training.
If you see us and wonder what it’s all
about, remember there’s a lot more to it
than a bunch of middle aged men and
women prancing about on the beach
in wetsuits and funny hats. When the
summer comes around again they might
just save a life or win a national title.
Martin Dorey is a writer, campervan traveller, surfer and environmentalist. He lives in Bude in North Cornwall
with his partner, Dr Seaweed, and a collection of bikes and boards.
FIND HIM ON □ @campervanliving 0 @martindorey Don’t look for him on Tik Tok
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 23
coast BOATING
All ABOffiГОР A' BOAThi;
ANDY COOPER discovers an easy way to get on the
water by becoming part of a club
Know the two days when you
enjoy owning a boat? That’s
right.. .the day you buy it, and
the day you sell it! That old
adage is sometimes trotted
out with rueful laughter by
many a boat owner because they can
see the kernel of truth in it.
The fact is boat ownership is
pleasurable, liberating, unique...and
sometimes costly, even if you own the
simplest of craft. Boost that ownership
towards something sporty and powerful
and you can start adding more pounds
onto your debit column in the ledger of
enjoyment.
But, of course, any thoughts of the
cost are temporarily lost on the wind
when you are racing across the water,
sun on you face, enjoying the thrill of
speed out in the open air. And, again,
you forget the hassles and the occasional
headache when you witness nature up
close as part of your time on board.
So just supposing there was a way to
enjoy all the upsides of boat ownership,
with very few of the downsides. Well,
there is.. .and I recently experienced it on
a visit to Torquay Marina.
There sits the waterside office of
Freedom Boat Club Torquay - a new
the beautiful bay and Torquay Marina,
making it an ideal base to embark on all
CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN The Freedom Boat Club Torquay fleet offers plenty of option; The Pilothouse
705 is perfect for angling and relaxed cruising; The beautiful coast around Torbay is yours to explore.
way to enjoy all the benefits of boat
ownership.. .without actually owning one.
Sign up for a membership package and
you will soon enough find yourself at the
helm of one of the club’s impressive fleet.
Currently, the fleet at Torquay consists
of three Zodiac RIBS, a 5.5m Gulf
Stream Limited Edition and two larger
6.8m Medline as well as a Quicksilver
705 Pilot House. All boats are powered
by the latest Mercury outboards, and
as more members join, additional boats
will be added. Based on Beacon Quay,
the Freedom clubhouse overlooks
I was taken out for a demonstration
by club manager Ollie Patterson, who
put the stylish Medline 6.8 Aqua through
its paces during a fabulous afternoon
out on the water. Accompanied by four
family members, we visited offshore
rocks where wildlife remains unseen from
the land, as well as edging in and out of
waterside caves for an explore. And no
trip on a RIB would be complete without
a little speed on the agenda, with all our
party enjoying the thrill of time at the helm
under Ollie’s expert instruction.
This truly is one of the best ways
to enjoy a boat without too much
preparation and admin getting in your
way. Sign up as a member and you’ll
soon be enjoying hassle-free times out on
the water.
And by joining Freedom Boat Club,
you also link up with an impressive
385+ Freedom locations worldwide.
Since 2021, five locations have opened
across the UK, including Portsmouth,
Hythe Marina Village, Loch Lomond
and Windermere, further underpinning
that club membership is an increasingly
preferred way to enjoy marine activities.
• freedomboatclub.com
PHOTOGRAPHY: FREEDOM BOAT CLUB
24 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
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coast DISCOVERY
Tracey Williams, founder of
Lego Lost at Sea, creates works
of art from her beach finds.
COaSt DISCOVERY
ACTION &
ADVENTURE!
Simple things often bring the most pleasure.
CHRISSY HARRIS looks at some coastal activities that
are guaranteed to lift the spirits, whatever the weather
PHOTOGRAPHY: TRACEY WILLIAMS; UNICORN PUBLISHING
BEACHCOMBING
There’s something very mindful about
beachcombing - searching along the shoreline for
signs of undiscovered treasure.
“It’s completely absorbing,” says Tracey Williams, an
expert in this coastal pastime. “When you’re in the
zone, you don’t think about anything else. It’s just a
relaxing, gentle form of activity.”
Tracey is the founder of Lego Lost at Sea, an
online phenomenon inspired by a now famous cargo
spillage.
Up to five million pieces of mostly nautical-themed
Lego ended up in the sea after the cargo ship Tokio
Express ran into difficulty in rough waters, 20 miles
off Land’s End, Cornwall, in February 1997.
Tracey first started to spot the tiny, brightly
coloured pieces, including lifejackets and divers’
flippers, during regular beachcombing sessions in
South Devon with her children.
She set up a ‘citizen science’ Facebook page for
other people to document their finds and Lego Lost
at Sea soon became a global news story, quickly
building a huge following on other social media
platforms. Tracey has recently written a book, called
Adrift, which tells the story of the Lego Lost at Sea
phenomenon and what it says about our oceans.
TOP TIPS
Keep an open mind: Man-made and natural
finds all have their story to tell - that’s what makes
beachcombing so fascinating. Keep your eyes
peeled for mermaids’ purses (the egg cases of
sharks) or sea beans, the fruits and seeds of tropical
plants that can drift thousands of miles on ocean
currents. They’re said to bring good luck to the
finder. Also search for beautiful sea hearts, glossy
hamburger beans and the fragile shells of violet sea
snails. And look out for Lego! Pieces are still turning
up, 26 years on.
Early birds: Be the first on the beach. One of the
best times to go is after winter storms and strong
onshore winds.
Stay safe: Check the tide times - don’t risk getting
cut off.
•	Adrift: The Curious Tale of the Lego Lost at
Sea (Unicorn Publishing) is available now.
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 27
COaSt DISCOVERY
BIRDWATCHING
Get your twitch on and spend time observing some
unique seasonal visitors. The UK coastline provides
a diverse range of habitats for a wide variety of bird
species. You don’t need to be an expert to reap the
rewards of this increasingly popular pastime. Just
being outdoors, connecting with nature and simply
listening to bird calls can provide long-lasting stress
relief.
There are well-known ‘seaside hotels’ for
our feathered friends all along the coast but
Northumberland in particular is a birdwatcher’s
paradise. In the autumn, hungry and tired migrant
birds stop off to feed for their onward journey and
in the winter, wildfowl and waders come from their
northern breeding grounds to spend the winter
here.
Light-bellied brent geese, barnacle geese and
ABOVE Spend
some time
observing some
seasonal visitors
on the
Northumberland
coast.
pink-footed geese are joined by wigeon, grey
plovers and bar-tailed godwits.
TOP TIPS
Find a special spot: Andrew Craggs, senior reserve
manager at Lindisfarne and Newham Bogs National
Nature Reserves on the Northumberland coast says:
“Budle Bay, found at the southern tip of Lindisfarne
National Nature Reserve is a great place to watch
and enjoy bird life. A purpose-built platform allows
views across the whole bay.”
Tide turns: An incoming tide is the best time to see
the birds. It pushes them closer to the shore so they
are easier to spot.
Keep your distance: Seabirds can be easily
disturbed by human presence, so it is important to
respect their space.
•	See lindisfamennr.blogspot.com.
PHOTOGRAPHY: JJD
Just being outdoors, connecting with nature and simply
listening to bird calls can provide long-lasting stress relief
28 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt DISCOVERY
ABOVE Book in
for an arty break at
The White House
Hotel in Norfolk.
BELOW Morston
Quay by artist and
tutor Tim Fisher.
BEACH ART
The UK coastline has inspired generations of artists
to capture the beauty of the landscape. Indulge
your creative side by doing the same. There are
lots of courses, from residential breaks to two-hour
sessions, designed to help you unlock your hidden
artistic talents, whether that’s through watercolour
or simply drawing on the sand.
Carolyn Shepherd runs inspiration days at her
beach gallery on the Isle of Hoy, Orkney. The idea
is that people can come along - regardless of their
artistic talents - and awaken their creativity.
“When you’re looking for inspiration here in such
an enormous landscape, it’s easy to be overawed
by the scale,” says Carolyn. “The skies are massive,
there are panoramic views and we feel quite small in
comparison.
“One of the tricks is to try to take the macro to
the micro,” she adds, explaining that the pleasure
in beach art comes from picking out the essence
of what you can see, feel and hear. “The tides are
a constant presence for me. Apart from the visual
impact and changes to the colour of the sea - those
deep greens to vibrant teals to peacock blues - I
focus on the shifting sounds underneath the water.”
TOP TIPS
Be spontaneous: “Use the materials to hand as a
vocabulary”, says Carolyn. “You might be using muddy
sand or ground up pebbles. It’s not just about paint.”
Create the perfect watercolour: Artist Tim Fisher
is one of the tutors at Big Sky Art, a choice of
residential or non-residential courses held at The
White House in Burnham Market, Norfolk. He says:
“Work on cotton-based watercolour paper. This will
withstand corrections without the surface breaking
down and both sides of the paper can be used.”
• See beachgallery.co.uk; bigskyartcourses.com.
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAKE EASTHAM; TIM FISHER
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 29
COaSt DISCOVERY
‘Coasteering - exploring
a trail along a rocky
coast - involves
scrambling, swimming
and plenty of jumping
along rocks into the sea’

COaSt DISCOVERY
FROM MAIN LEFT TO RIGHT Adrenaline junkies can get their fix
by coasteering with Celtic Quest.
BELOW Go Kayaking with Vertical Blue Adventures.
More of an adrenaline junkie? Here are some coastal activities to push you out of your comfort zone.
•	Coasteering - exploring a trail along a rocky coast - involves scrambling, swimming and plenty of jumping along rocks
and into the sea. Pembrokeshire-based Celtic Quest Coasteering (celticquestcoasteering.com) has been organising these
edge-of-the-world adventures since 2008.
•	Keen kayaker Ian Prickett set up Vertical Blue Adventures (verticalblue.co.uk) in Cornwall ten years ago as a way of
making a living doing something he loves. He takes people of all ages and abilities out on courses, expeditions and guided
tours along the coast. People can choose from a range of water-based activities, including sea kayaking and paddle
boarding.
•	Try bouldering at Boscombe Beach, Dorset (visitboumemouth.com). There are various routes and challenges. Each
boulder has been shaped to resemble a natural landmark, including Old Harry Rocks and Aggiestone Rock.
PHOTOGRAPHY: CELTIC QUEST COASTEERING;
VERTICAL BLUE ADVENTURES
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 31
COaSt DISCOVERY
« W
AND RELAX
Just being by the coast is often enough to free your
mind, body and soul. However, there are ways to
reach even deeper levels of relaxation. Beach yoga
classes offer a chance for participants to immerse
themselves in the sand, sea and scenery while
practising their positions. Silent Yoga UK, a Dorset-
based wellness company, organises regular beach
yoga and meditation experiences with silent disco
headphones. The perfectly curated playlists mean
there are zero distractions from the outside world.
“Headphones are so versatile,” says Anna D.
Patycka, Silent Yoga’s owner and CEO. “You can
listen to the music, journal and watch the sun set,
letting the golden light into your body.”
PHOTOGRAPHY: SILENT YOGA UK
TOP TIPS
Show off your moves: Anna says: “Shake any
negative energy off by dancing to your favourite
music by the oceans. Let the waves carry your
worries away.
ABOVE Beach
yoga classes allow
participants to
immerse
themselves in the
coastal landscape.
Free your mind: Make sure every beach trip
becomes a zen-like experience and meditate by the
sea. Anna says: “Let the waves guide your breath
and then dip into the water feeling calm and strong.”
• See silentyoga.co.uk.
‘Shake any negative energy off by dancing to your favourite
music by the oceans. Let the waves carry your worries away"
32 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt DISCOVERY
Fort Augustus sits at the southern
tip of iconic Loch Ness.



fit < I
SIMON BALDWIN travels from one side
of Scotland’s coast to the other by taking a
fascinating and stimulating route
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 33
COaSt DISCOVERY
PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER SANDGROUND;
SIMON BALDWIN; SHUTTERSTOCK
he Great Glen. The very
name conjures up images
of heather-clad slopes and
still, dark waters of fresh
and seawater lochs. Take
a look at any map of the
UK and the Glen is one of the most
obvious natural landmarks - a giant scar
that’s visible from space, seemingly
splitting Scotland in two.
For those who love their geology, step
back some 400 million years or so when
the very land mass of the islands we call
home was as shifting sands.. .the north
west of what is now Scotland moving
in an opposite, diagonal direction to the
land to the south east. The resulting ‘fault’
has since been subjected to millennia
of weathering, not least of all the last ice
age, creating a coast-to-coast ‘valley’
that’s just waiting to be explored.
The official route of the Great Glen
Way takes visitors from Fort William in the
south west to Inverness in the north east.
As lovers of the coast, we’ll make the
most by starting and ending our journey
of discovery a little further out - at both
ends.
Fort William is at the eastern end of
Loch Linnhe - the sea loch at the opening
to the Great Glen. And right in the middle
of the loch is Lismore, a ten-mile long
inner Hebridean isle.
Many will bypass this island beauty
in their rush to get to more popular
destinations in the area, but it is well
worth taking time to visit. The shortest
ferry route is but a ten-minute hop from
Port Appin and when you arrive, you
won’t be disappointed.
Lismore offers visitors an abundance of
places to walk, cycle, paddle and picnic,
with stunning views across open waters
to mountains and breathtaking vistas on
all sides.
Back on the mainland, head north
east from Port Appin along the south
shore of Loch Linnhe to join the A82 at
Ballachulish - and then on, hugging the
loch shore, until you reach Fort William.
You can travel along the northern shore,
but this relies on the Corran Ferry - a
route that has been out of action this year
through mechanical issues - and results
in a longer, more twisty route through to
Fort William.
Neath the shadow of Ben Nevis,
Britain’s highest peak, this is the official
starting point of the 79-mile-long Great
Glen Way. Many walk the route and
there are numerous sites, pamphlets,
and guide books to help you plan your
way. Most will recommend you allow
between four to seven days - and there
are opportunities aplenty to stop off and
explore the communities scattered along
the Glen.
If donning your boots, you’re in
for mainly low-level walking on well-
signposted roads, tracks and towpaths -
the latter thanks to the engineering genius
of Thomas Telford who designed the
Caledonian Canal that connects the lochs
and enables us to go ‘coast to coast’.
The first ideas for a canal date from
the late 18th century - the British Royal
Navy wanting to avoid the dangers of
rounding Cape Wrath. It was an 1803
Act of Parliament that gave the canal the
green light and Telford was tasked with
surveying and building a project that was
forecast to take seven years at a cost of
just under half a million pounds. It is good
to know some things never change! By
the time the canal opened - 22 miles
carved through the landscape to connect
the lochs via 29 locks - it had taken 12
years and almost double the budget!
That’s around £92 million in today’s
money.
As often in our islands’ history, it took
a visit by Queen Victoria to change
perceptions. Until then, sailors and
34 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt DISCOVERY
merchants were the main customers.
Half a century after the Royal patronage,
regular paddle steamers were operating
busy passenger services - including
welcoming an increasing number of
tourists.
A decade of investment and significant
restoration work was undertaken from
1995-2005 - improvements that reap
rewards today by creating this unique
coast-to-coast thoroughfare.
The Great Glen - between Fort William
and Inverness - is just a 66-mile drive.
And, of course, you can take this route
along the A82. But there are so many
other options to discover and enjoy.
We’ve mentioned walking. Then there’s
cycling, boating and paddling.. .and
numerous variations. Cruises, ‘bike and
barge’ trips - as well as smaller, shorter
experiences that allow visitors to explore
the different lochs and the hills and
mountains both north and south.
Heading east from the Great Glen
Way’s starting point in Fort William,
the first village you visit is Banavie. It is
famed for Neptune’s Staircase, Telford’s
engineering masterpiece of masonry
that enables boats to ‘climb’ almost 20
metres (62 feet) through eight locks - the
longest flight on any canal in Scotland.
Stations have train spotters. Canals
have ‘gongoozlers’ - those who come
to watch the boats: you’ll see everything
from multi-million-pound yachts to
working fishing trawlers, all taking the
hour-and-a-half trip up or down this
extraordinary ‘staircase’.
Onwards, the route hugs the canal
- all the way to the picturesque hamlet
of Gairlochy. This is where the canal
enters the first of the three lochs - Loch
Lochy. For those on foot, you are taken
away from the traffic to skirt the northern
shoreline - initially on minor roads and
then on tracks cut through the forest that
climb and dip along the Glen’s slopes.
The canal resumes at Laggan Locks.
There’s a sense of wonder when watching
canal locks in operation. The ingenuity
of their design. The history and heritage
of their life’s work. The changing pace of
travel that forces you to slow down.
The next stretch takes you through to
Loch Oich - and passes the Great Glen
Hostel. There are places to stay along -
and off - the Great Glen. This hostel gets
a mention as it provides great budget
accommodation and, if you are planning
a get-together with family or friends or
perhaps as a club on a charity challenge,
you can ‘private hire’ the entire venue. It
sleeps up to 49 people across 11 rooms
split as twins, family rooms and dorms.
The price - from just £500 per night in low
season - makes it an ideal and affordable
venue.
For those on two wheels, along the
shores of Loch Oich is a section of the
National Cycle Route 78. The cycle path
is constructed on the disused Spean
Bridge to Fort Augustus railway line. The
last steam trains to puff along	—>
0№©ШАТ0©1№
• Caledonian Canal:
scottishcanals. co. uk/canals/
caledonian-canal/
Accommodation in Fort
Augustus: aonachmor.co.uk/
• Great Glen Hostel - private
hire: greatglenhostel.com/
• Great Glen Way: the route is
subject to improvement works.
We strongly advise checking the
official website for updates to
avoid any issues of access.
highland.gov.uk/greatglenway/
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 35
the tracks were taken away in 1947.
Today, walkers and cyclists puff under a
different steam!
It is a beautiful stretch of the Great Glen
- passing the ruins of Invergarry Castle
- and taking you all the way through to
the historic Fort Augustus. The town was
originally known as Kiliwhimin and was
the site for a new barracks following the
1715 Jacobite Rising.
General George Wade built a new fort -
and named it Fort Augustus after the then
King George Il’s youngest son. Hardly
anything remains of Wade’s Fort bar a
small section of wall. Abandoned in 1818,
the land was used to build Fort Augustus
Abbey which, today, is luxury self-catering
accommodation - Aonach Mor at The
Highland Club.
You can while away hours - or even
days - at Fort Augustus. You can
discover the Caledonian Canal Centre
that provides a year-round destination
hub for locals and visitors alike. There’s
information, a shop selling locally sourced
goods and a cafe that serves up all
manner of tasty treats, homemade from
Scottish produce.
You’ll find shops, cafes, eateries and
breathtaking scenery. It is the perfect spot
to ‘gongoozle’ as boats descend through
the five locks to the world’s most famous
of lochs, Loch Ness.
The largest loch in Great Britain - by
volume of water - Loch Ness contains
more water than all of the lakes in
England and Wales combined! But it is
not the water that makes it famous, rather
what may live in the deep, dark depths
that have made Loch Ness so famous.
The 1933 siting of ‘Nessie’ saw public
interest explode in the ‘monster fish’,
although rumours of a monster in the
area date back many centuries.
Continuing on the coast-to-coast
route, Loch Ness accounts for almost a
third of the Great Glen Way’s length. The
official route climbs away from the loch
and gives you a choice: the high road or
the low road. Both have stunning views
across Loch Ness and the hills beyond,
but the lower route takes walkers and
cyclists through what is known as
‘Acquisition Number 1 ’, the very first site
planted by the Forestry Commission in
Scotland. Douglas Fir and Spruce trees
tower above you.
On the northern shores of the Loch
are the villages of Invermoriston and
Drumnadrochit. Both have shops and
accommodation for those wishing to stay.
The final stretch of the Great Glen Way
- from Drumnadrochit to Inverness - is
also the longest on the official route’s plan
and takes you up into the hills and further
away from Loch Ness before descending
to the River Ness and on to Inverness
Castle where the route officially ends.
This is Inverness, capital of the
Highlands and - for many visiting this part
of the world - the arrival and departure
point, not only as home of the Highland’s
'Stations have train spotters. Canals have
‘gongoozlers’ - those who come to watch the boats'
36 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt DISCOVERY
Stand on the ramparts of Fort George and watch out for the
bottlenose dolphins that make this area their home.
largest airport but also terminus of the
Caledonian Sleeper that brings overnight
visitors from London.
However, we love the coast - and for
those wishing to take in the true ‘Great
Glen’ experience, the fault line continues
far beyond Inverness and out into the
Moray Firth. Whether on this trip - or as
the beginning of another to explore the
delights of the Moray coast or the Black
Isle - it is worth mentioning just a selection
of destinations that stretch out along
the Great Glen Faultline as it heads up
to Wilkhaven Point and disappears into
the open waters of the North Sea. Along
the Black Isle coast - west of Inverness
- head to Fortrose. And your first stop?
The Fairy Glen: a hidden treasure that is
an RSPB reserve and a must for any bird
lovers. Beautiful waterfalls tumble through
broadleaf woodland down to Rosemarkie
Bay, just on the north side of Fortrose,
where you are likely to spy all manner
of birdlife including grey heron as they
stalk fish. You can now head out into the
Moray Firth to discover Chanonry Point.
On the opposite shore - east of
Inverness and just beyond the city’s
airport - is Fort George. The extraordinary
building took more than two decades to
construct and created one of the most
imposing and outstanding fortifications
you will see anywhere in the world.
It served the British Army for two-and-
a-half-centuries and, today, it is run by
Historic Environment Scotland. You can
stand on the ramparts and watch out for
the bottlenose dolphins and grey seals
that make this area their home. Want to
see the wildlife close-up? There are local
boat trip operators who will be happy to
oblige.
ML	IF©[& MWNTOKH
PHOTOGRAPHY: TRIPSMITHS
Here’s an opportunity to see
Scotland’s stunning Highlands and
islands for yourself with Coast on
an incredible six-night cruise.
Sail past the romantic ruins of
Urquhart Castle and up an
impressive flight of locks that run
through the heart of Fort Augustus
on a full-board cruise aboard Lord
of the Glens.
You will cross the famous
Glenfinnan viaduct as well as
explore Mull and the seafood
capital, Oban. Visit the battlefield
where Bonnie Prince Charlie’s
forces were defeated in 1746, then
see the ancient standing stones of
Clava Cairns.
Choose from April and October
2024 departures. Visit coast.
tripsmiths.com/scotland to find out
more.
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 37
COaSt RECOMMENDS
-----coast—
CONFIDENTIAL
Our indispensable monthly guide to great
things happening on our shores
HEAD TO THE HEADLAND FOR PROPER LUXURY
Name me a coastal hotel in a better
location than the Headland Hotel in
Newquay. Go on, I’ll wait, writes ANDY
COOPED. Because I am not sure there
are too many which can surpass it.
But an iconic location is not always any
guarantee of excellence when it comes
to the hotel itself. For it to match the
surroundings a truly iconic hotel needs to
excel at the other elements which make
your stay memorable - the food, the
interiors, the facilities and the service.
Thankfully, the Headland hits the gold
standard in this regard too. I can highly
recommend a stay for anyone who is a
true coast-lover.
Perhaps the final box on my ‘tick list’
for a hotel which excels is investment,
because constantly upgrading and
maintaining the fabric is essential. And in
the Headland’s case investment comes
with a huge capital ‘I.
Take, for example, the stunning new
£3m Restaurant RenMor which is part of
the ongoing refurbishment programme
at the five-star venue. It replaces The
Samphire as the hotel’s signature
restaurant, and it welcomes guests and
non-residents, (renmor.co.uk)
There are sweeping views over the
Atlantic Ocean from the restaurant
and the new design gives guests the
opportunity to enjoy the sights and
aromas from the open plan kitchen.
We thoroughly enjoyed dinner there
at the end of a day which had seen us
luxuriate in the hotel’s amazing ‘indoors/
outdoors’ pool and spa complex, The
Aqua Club, and also find ourselves being
treated to relaxing spa treatments from
the extensive list offered by the hotel.
Our beautiful suite of rooms looked
out over nearby Fistral beach and the
crashing waves on the rocks below - the
perfect soundtrack to drop off to sleep
after a day spent in complete luxury. I am
missing it already and planning a return...
see you there! • headlandhotel.co.uk
HOUSE OF FUN
One of this year’s coolest new coastal
retreats - Margate House - is now
open.
This new boutique guest house,
oozing with charm and colour, is the
brainchild and passion project of Will
Jenkins - a property developer and
owner of successful London rental
company - who’s lovingly restored
(much with his own hands) this
previously derelict building.
The largest bedrooms offer bay
windows with sea views, and all are
peppered with linen bistro curtains,
scalloped lampshades, bespoke wavy
headboards, stripes, velvets, vintage
rugs, and eclectic finds from local
antique shops. Al come complete
with contemporary bathrooms, walk-in
rainfall showers and Haeckel’s toiletries
(made using seaweed handpicked in
Margate).
Breakfast is served, as it should be
when staying away, in bed. Hampers
of coffee, fresh juice, and a daily bake
of the day from nearby Staple are
delivered to bedrooms each morning.
Or for something heartier, Margate
House has partnered with The
Good Egg to offer a bespoke menu
exclusively for guests - offering brunch
classics.
Downstairs, the stunning open plan
living and drawing room is designed
to ensure guests feel right at home
- equipped with an honesty bar
(made from a beautiful repurposed
antique display cabinet), cosy seating
areas and a larder of locally sourced
goodies to tuck into.
•	margatehouse.co.uk
38 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt RECOMMENDS
A SAFE HARBOUR FOR FANTASTIC FOOD
Coast loves both the vibe and the food
at the Harbour Inn at Axmouth, a tucked
away Devon spot which we thoroughly
recommend you seek out if you are in
the area.
Chef proprietor Shaun Cassidy is
something of a legend in these parts
due to previous stints at well-regarded
foodie establishments, and he is now
burnishing that reputation further by
producing a fantastic menu at this
delightful thatched inn just yards from the
shore.
Treat yourself to delights such as
venison cottage pie with rich red wine
reduction, topped with cheesy mash,
SURFING SERENITY
Self-catering specialist Beach Retreats has just
unveiled Serenity in Croyde, Devon, a duplex
apartment with boho interiors, for a cool beach
house feel. This luxury twist on a surf shack -
which sleeps eight across three bedrooms - is
adorned with naturally-inspired decor, rattan
furniture and surfer-chic artwork.
Playful touches create a joyous family hub,
or an ideal hangout spot for a friends’ weekend
away. The outdoor terrace is the perfect
suntrap for barbecues, and dual-height ceilings
create a spacious sky-like feeling.
Just 300 metres from the beach, guests
can dive into the surf, or hike the South West
Coast Path with spectacular views. Inland, the
village of Croyde is a tranquil retreat alongside
the secluded bay. • beachretreats.co.uk/self-
catering/north-devon/croyde/serenity
or maybe seafood marinara linguini.
And our resident crumble expert gave
the dessert ten out of ten for tastes and
textures.
It was Sunday when Coast visited and
the roasts were plentiful and good value
too.. .and you can walk off your lunch
with a relaxing stroll along the nearby
coast path.
There’s an excellent garden area
too, a fabulous spot to kick back, relax
and enjoy some sunshine in peaceful
surroundings. The staff are first class and
friendly as well, making this an essential
coastal stop-off spot in our book.
•	theharbouraxmouth.co.uk
THREE TO TRY..
Here’s three lovely products Coast
loves this month for life on the beach:
BEST (SPEEDY)
FOOT FORWARD
Prepare to put
some serious pep
in your pace when
hitting the coastal
trail in the new Zionic speed hiker
from KEEN. Constructed with a high-
performance rip-stop and recycled
mesh upper, these shoes are built to
provide extra durability and protection
in exposed areas, whilst a waterproof,
breathable membrane ensures feet
stay dry and comfortable even in
winter’s worse weathers. Choose
from a mid- or low-cut model in men
and women’s specific editions.. .and
they come in some fab funky colour
choices too! keenfootwear.de
CLASSY
COLLECTION
Make a splash in
this stylish sweatshirt
from Rodd and
Gunn, partoftheir
Sail GP collection
which sees them partner with the
world class race event to produce a
fantastic collection of apparel. The
collection is made from SeaCell,
an innovative and eco-friendly
fabric material made by combining
cellulose and kelp yarn. As well as
this sweatshirt, there are polo shirts,
knitwear and a cap in the exclusive
collection, roddandgunn.com/uk/
clothing/featured/sailgp
TRUST IN A FAB
COLLECTION
We love the latest
limited edition footwear collection
launched by Moshulu in collaboration
with the National Trust. They feature
an eight-part range made from
sustainable materials. And if you treat
yourself to a pair you’ll be helping
Britain’s largest coastal conservation
charity too! moshulu.co.uk/national-
trust
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 39
coast COMPETITION
llUUUUlllllHUininillllHlUlHlUUUUllllllllll
WIN A STAY FOR SIX
hiiuuHimitiiiinmuuiiyiiiiiiiuuumiihiuiii
ON THE NORFOLK COAST
Don’t miss Coast’s competitions page every month
for chances to win fabulous prizes
One lucky reader and up to five
guests has the chance to win a
short break in Grayling House - a
new three-bedroom property with
wonderful rural views in the Norfolk
village of Winterton-on-Sea.
Part of Winterton Cottages’ collection, the property
is close to the village pub and cafe as well as
Winterton Beach with its basking seals, this gorgeous
holiday home welcomes two dogs. Downstairs, as
well as the modern and extremely stylish open plan
living and dining room, there’s a snug with comfy
seating and smart TV, while each of the three king-size
bedrooms has its own ensuite shower room.
The enclosed garden is wonderfully landscaped,
and there is a spacious terrace with sofa and table for
six that’s perfect for al fresco dining and drinks. There
is also ample parking and an EV charger.
Winterton Cottages features over 40
stunning holiday homes and all are dog-friendly. They
range from a cosy traditional fisherman’s cottage for
two to large houses with spectacular sea views and
quirky properties like a former village shop and double
thatched round house.
The Norfolk Broads with their extensive wildlife,
walks and cycle trails are within easy reach of all the
properties. Plus, there’s a great choice of cosy village
pubs nearby including The Fisherman’s Return in
Winterton with real ales, open fire and home cooked
food, The Greyhound at Hickling and the Kings
Arms at Fleggburgh.
• wintertoncottages.co.uk; tel: 01493 800645
§
о
p
о
£
YOUR PRIZE
One lucky reader will win a
short break (Fri-Mon or Mon-Fri)
at Grayling House to be taken
between October 2023 and
March 2024.
HOW TO ENTER
Please go to the competition
page at coastmagazine.co.uk
and answer this question by
October 27, 2023:
All of Winterton Cottages’
holiday homes are?
A: Dog-friendly
B: Overlooking the beach
C: Thatched cottages
KELSEY TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Prize is non-refundable and no cash alternative is available. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Entry is free. Open to residents of
the UK aged over 18. Employees of Kelsey Media and the competition provider and their family members are not eligible to win. Only one entry permitted per household; no bulk entries will be
accepted. The first correct entry drawn after the closing date will win. Our winner will be notified within 28 days. If our winner fails to respond after three attempts at contact, a new winner will be
drawn. The prize is not transferable. If any prize or product is lost or damaged during the course of delivery to the recipient, Kelsey Media will provide reasonable assistance in seeking to resolve
the problem. However, it will not always be possible to obtain replacements for lost or damaged goods and, in that event, no financial compensation would be payable by Kelsey Media or its
affiiates. We reserve the right to cancel the competition if circumstances change which are beyond our control. Coast is a Kelsey Media brand. Here at Kelsey Media we take your privacy
seriously and will only use your personal information to provide the products and services you have requested from us. We will only contact you with news and special offers via the preferences
you have indicated. We will never share your information with any third party without your consent. You can view our full Privacy Policy at kelsey.co.uk/privacy-notice/
WINTERTON COTTAGES’ TERMS & CONDITIONS: The prize is subject to availability. The prize must be redeemed by the winner within one month of being notified. The holiday must be taken
between October 2023 and March 2024. Excludes Christmas and New Year, school, and public bank holidays. Subject to availability at the time of booking. The prize does not include travel/
transportation, or any other costs of a personal nature including insurance and spending money. The prize is non-transferable and non-exchangeable for cash or any other alternative. Prize may
not be sold on online auction sites. Upon confirmation of acceptance, the winner may be announced on the Winterton Cottages’ social media channels. Winners can book a stay that is longer
than their competition prize but any costs beyond this will be at the winner’s own expense.The cottage is provided on a ‘self-catering’ basis. Entrants must be 18 years of age or over. When
contacted, the winner may be asked to provide proof of age. The winner must complete a guest booking form detailing full contact details. Their stay will be subject to Winterton Cottages full
booking terms and conditions. Winterton Cottages may change or restrict the arrival dates from the available booking dates window above. Prize information will be sent out via email after the
winner has accepted their prize, and arrangements will be made for dates and times of arrival. No refunds will be given if the full value of prize is not redeemed. The prize cannot be used in
conjunction with any other offers. Employees connected with this promotion from Winterton Cottages, travel agents, any employees of third-party prize suppliers and promotional agencies and
their families are excluded from taking part in this competition. Anyone found to be a third-party supplier will automatically forfeit the prize and a redraw will take place. No purchase is necessary
to enter this competition. Entry instructions and prize descriptions form part of these terms and conditions. These terms may be subject to change during the competition period.
40 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt DISCOVERY
MARINA NEWS
All the latest news on boating, berthing and harbour
developments from around the UK
HEADLINE SPONSOR
FOR BOATLIFE 2024
BoatLife has announced that Suzuki will be the
headline sponsor for the highly anticipated February
2024 show.
Attracting thousands of boating enthusiasts,
industry professionals, and visitors new to boating,
BoatLife offers a unique platform for showcasing the
latest advancements in marine technology, boating
accessories and on-water recreational activities
across sectors from powerboats to inland and
fishing.
As the headline sponsor, Suzuki will play a central
role in the 2024 show, allowing attendees to hear
about the power and efficiency of their state-of-the-
art outboard motors.
Mark Beeley, head of ATV and marine for Suzuki
GB says: “We are incredibly proud to be the headline
sponsor for BoatLife 2024.
“This event aligns perfectly with our vision of
promoting an active and enjoyable boating lifestyle
while being mindful of the advancing prerequisites for
sustainability.
“BoatLife provides us with an ideal platform to
showcase our latest innovations and interact directly
with boating enthusiasts.”
Richard Dove, MD, BoatLife Events, adds: “For
the second year running we have secured a headline
show sponsor and we couldn’t be more pleased.
The Suzuki brand is a big name in the industry - they
deliver an impressive show presence, and we look
forward to working with them closely as a long-term
partner’.
• boatlifeevents.com
NEW VERSION OF
ELECTRIC RIB
LAUNCHED
RS Electric Boats has announced
that the new iteration of the Pulse
63 RIB, featuring a RAD40 (electric
propulsion system) and increased
battery capacity, is now on the
market.
The manufacturer has calculated
that the integral RAD40 offers 45 per cent more efficiency than the
previous configuration, which was already a significant leap in terms
of electric RIBs. The Pulse 63 will have even more speed and range
than it previously enjoyed.
Further to this, the new set-up means the Pulse 63 will enjoy
extreme manoeuvrability. This is because the RAD40 head unit stays
still and only the bottom of its leg swivels. As a result, the propeller
can turn 90 degrees in each direction, offering a fantastic 180
degrees - allowing the Pulse to spin in its own length.
“This is the next generation of the Pulse 63,” says Alex Newton-
Southon, RS Marine Group co-CEO. “It’s the place we always
wanted to get to. It’s super easy to manoeuvre and the new 63kWh
battery version will further increase the range.” • rsmahnegroup.com
The Pulse 63 electric RIB
out on the water.
i I
CHARTING A NEW
NAVIGATION TOOL
Sailing author and Fellow of the Royal Institute of
Navigation Tom Cunliffe and his colleague Bill
Aylward have launched an interactive iPad-
based navigation app called AngelNav which
allows users to plot traditional chartwork easily.
“AngelNav’s unique strength is that the charts
on its screen are exactly the same as the paper charts in your chart
table,” says Tom. “You can actually plot position lines, courses to
steer and estimated positions on the screen just as you would with a
pencil and chart instruments on the paper equivalent.
‘The app is suitable for literally anybody who is navigating in
waters covered, at the moment, by raster charts.”
The AngelNav app is free from the Apple App store for iPhones
and iPads running iOS 15.0 and above. UK, Ireland and France
charts are divided into affordable sections that can be bought in-app
at £24.99. • angelnav.co.uk
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 41
lT4*
*Book before 31st October and travel before 31st December 2023. Valid for a vehicle ferry crossing stays of 1 night or more, up to 7 people (additional passenger
rates available) in a car, minibus, motorhome, motorcycle or private towed vehicle. Also available for a small van up to 5.5m length/2m height. New bookings only. Not
for use in conjunction with any other offer. +A £5 handling fee applies to telephone bookings.
RED FUNNEL
FERRIES
for a never-ending
Set sail for beautiful beaches, a rich local history and 100s of miles of trails to explore.
You'll feel like you've gone abroad, without the hassle of checking a passport or bags.
Discover the Isle of Wight, just one hour from Southampton when you travel with Red Funnel.
COaSt COLUMNIST

PORTLAND
Join WILLIAM THOMSON on his journey each month
exploring a Shipping Forecast region
n last month’s column I focused on Plymouth
and the way the River Tamar creates a
natural threshold to the wonders of Cornwall.
Following this theme of geological features
creating the transition from one place to the
next, few are more notable than the iconic
Isle of Portland, connected to the mainland by a
narrow strip of shingle at the end of Chesil
Beach. Protruding deep into the English
Channel, Portland creates a natural barrier and
the coastline on either side of the isle is
strikingly different.
To the east is the vast sweep of Lyme Bay,
a pebbly beach which flows in a smooth arc
all the way from Lyme Regis to the cliffs of
Portland. The shoreline is characterised by
crumbly cliffs around Golden Cap and West
Bay, with a steeply sloping beach that creates
dangerously steep shore breaks. In contrast,
to the west of Portland the coast is punctuated
with coves and sea arches, immortalised in
the picture-postcard beautiful Durdle Door and
Lulworth Cove.
Regardless of which side of Portland you see
it from - the crumbly Lyme Bay or hard Purbeck
Coast - there is something about it that looks
‘back to front’. Rising steeply up from Portland
Harbour with near vertical cliffs, it then gradually
slopes down to the sea at the infamous Bill.
This is opposite to most cliffs, which gently
rise up as they get close to the sea, then drop
precipitously down to the waterline. This back-
ABOVE William
Thomson FRGS is
author/illustrator of
The Book of Tides
and founder of
Tidal Compass
(tidalcompass. com)
Tide School
Boost your
knowledge of
the sea with
William’s online
tide school:
tide-school.com
to-front geology is a reminder that different
rules apply here, that you should expect the
unexpected, a quirk of nature.
Portland’s uniqueness is forewarned in
nautical charts with a series of squiggly lines.
These are the symbols for overfalls, defined
by the International Hydrographic Dictionary
as ‘short breaking waves occurring when a
strong current passes over a shoal or other
submarine obstruction or meets a contrary wind
or current’.
In the case of Portland, the fearsome overfalls
that constitute the world-renowned race are
made by fast tidal streams being accelerated
down the isle before they collide with an
underwater reef that extends out from Portland.
For anyone navigating around the Bill,
keeping a close ear out for the Shipping
Forecast is vitally important. The final sentence
of the definition gives a clue as to what for look
out for, in particular when the wind or swell is
contrary to the direction of the tidal streams.
When this happens, the race gets
supercharged and it is advisable to stay at
least ten nautical miles (18km) offshore to
avoid the steep breaking waves. Nobody
should ever contemplate swimming, kayaking
or paddleboarding here; even at slack water.
Streams are only slow for a few minutes before
they pick up again and sweep you into the
overfalls. Moral of the story? Stay away from
places with squiggly lines on the chart.	—>
PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK
44 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
coast COLUMNIST
Few places are more notable
for their geological features
than the iconic Isle of Portland.
saint-mal
coast COLUMNIST
Portland. South-west, 5 to
6. Moderate. Good.
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?
Firstly, you’ve got good visibility so nothing to worry about
there. And while a Force 5-6 with moderate sea state would
usually be within the safe limits for a well-equipped sailing
boat with experienced crew, it could result in something very
different off Portland Bill.
In Portland, tidal streams always flow west at low tide - out
into the Atlantic. When this force of water collides with a force
5-6 south westerly, the collision accentuates the overfalls and
means they break further out to sea, meaning you’d need
to give the Bill a wider berth than usual. Five to eight miles
is recommended, but bigger winds and seas combined with
strong spring tides mean you want to stay ten nautical miles
out.
There is a narrow channel on the inside, if you’re careful.
According to the nearby Weymouth harbour master you want
to be so close to the Bill that you can throw a stone ashore,
but you should only try it in moderate seas.
If there’s a big swell running, the waves fill the ‘inshore
passage’ and make it lethal. The problem is you never really
know what it’ll be like till you get there, and there’s no way
out once you’ve committed, and you need to pay careful
attention to the forecast.
What are the conditions for Portland today? Tune into the
Shipping Forecast on BBC Radio 4 at 00:48, 05:20, 12:01
or 17:54 to find out!	3
PORTLAND
You can buy this
map as
a print at tide-
school.com
Use code
#coastmag for
a 25 per cent
discount
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 47
coast COLUMNIST
PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK
BIRDS’ NAVIGATION
Since travelling to Polynesia to study the lost art of
natural navigation, I have become fascinated how
birds navigate. In the Pacific, ‘wayfinders’ knew
that certain birds stay within a specific radius of
land, flying out to sea at dawn and returning to their
islands at dusk.
This meant that even when they were surrounded
by ocean with no land in sight, they could deduce
where landfall lay simply by observing the birds in the
sky.
Nobody knows exactly how birds navigate, but
recent scientific studies are starting to show that
they find their way using multiple sources of data. A
sensor in their beaks tunes into the earth’s magnetic
field and pinpoints north, as does an observation
of circumpolar stars spinning around the stationary
Polaris (north star) every night. While this is a
phenomenal skill, it is less surprising that coastal
birds soaring high up in the sky can see land from
further away than seafarers bobbing down at sea
level, so they become our ‘eyes in the sky’.
For migratory birds repeating the same annual
journey north and south, they learn to memorise
iconic landmarks and this is where Portland Bill
comes in. From a bird’s eye view, Portland is an
unmistakeable headland. As such, it becomes an
important landfall for many birds returning to the UK
in the spring after crossing the English Channel from
France.
A play around on Google Earth will give you an
idea of what it looks like from up there, the north-
south axis of the isle drawing birds in like a landing
strip, forewarned by a strip of white-water made by
the overfalls extending far out to sea.
This major waypoint on a migrant’s journey makes
Portland a birders’ paradise, with the epicentre being
the old lighthouse near the Bill. Here, in the spring
you’ll find terns, skuas and shearwaters resting after
their passage over the channel. To add to the drama,
there will also be peregrine falcons prowling about to
‘For migratory birds
repeating the same annual
journey north and south,
they learn to memorise
iconic landmarks’
The old lighthouse near the Bill is the
epicentre of attention for birders.
48 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
coast COLUMNIST
exploit the traveller’s fatigue after a long migration. On
average, around 50 species of birds can be observed
from Portland and the Portland Bill Observatory
shares daily updates of what’s in the air. Depending
on the time of year, you might also expect to find
guillemot, fulmar, razorbill and gannets, all navigating
the invisible lines of the Shipping Forecast by its
iconic thresholds; rivers like the Tamar, headlands like
Portland.
This goes to show that the lines on our maps
- like the Shipping Forecast - are not randomly
drawn; each one characterises a unique
environment that is defined by its name - Wight,
Lundy, Irish Sea, Portland. Just like the birds,
we are inherently creatures of nature, with our
communities and sense of order drawn from the
natural landmarks that punctuate our rocky isles.
Next month
William will explore the Shipping Forecast
region Tyne
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 49
Creekside
es’
COaSt SEASIDE START-UP
CAROLINE WHEATER meets a fashion designer
who is using vintage towelling fabrics to produce cosy,
British-made beach robes and hoodies
PHOTOGRAPHY: EMMACROMAN
Back in 2001, fashion designer
Sophie English and her family
moved from London to the
south coast, choosing the
Sussex South Downs, a
half hour’s cycle ride from
the coast, as their new home. “I find
it very restorative here, even on the
shingle pebbles!” says Sophie, making
a wry reference to her husband’s roots
in Queensland, with its world-renowned
tropical white sands.
“In winter we’ll go for blustery walks on
the Downs, and in summer my daughters
and I whip down to Lancing for a quick
swim, have a coffee, then get fish and
chips on the way back.”
The surrounding coastal landscape has
always fed into her designs, especially in
terms of colour, and also helped Sophie
launch a new venture, So English, a
range of beach-ready towelling robes,
hoodies and dresses aimed at the
discerning ocean lover.
For many years, Sophie designed
couture wedding dresses for the likes of
Liberty and Harrods, and chic corporate
wear for city banks and law firms, but
her penchant for vintage towelling, found
at seaside shops and on eBay, was to
eventually lead her in a different direction.
“I have a vast collection of fabrics -
everything from a piece from Norman
Hartnell’s studio to evening wear to old
shawls. And, like any collector, once
you’ve started it’s hard to stop doing it,”
she explains. Her considerable	—>
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 51
stash of towelling dates from the 1950s to the 1970s
and is mostly botanical in theme, screen-printed with
exuberant patterns of flowers and leaves, spots and
swirls.
“Back then these fabrics were made into bathroom
curtains and beachwear. I’ve always liked that retro
look, it’s so bright and bold, and I remember wearing
a little towelling hoodie myself when I was a teenager
on family sailing trips.”
In 2010, she plucked out a favourite piece of
original pink and white towelling from her collection
and decided to make herself a beach robe. “I loved
it and still do,” says Sophie of the pretty yet practical
piece. “I didn’t want it to be big and cumbersome
like a dry robe, but something you just put over your
swimming costume and nip down to the beach in.
“I wanted to feel like I was still wearing a dress and
have worn it to family events, parties, holidays with
| friends, and on many visits to Lancing beach.” She
also has sensitive skin, prone to eczema, and found
ш that the soft cotton towelling didn’t scratch or irritate.
Some hoodies for her daughters followed and a
few commissions from friends, but it wasn’t until the
pandemic struck in 2020 that she looked at the idea
£ in a new light. The world had changed overnight
PREVIOUS PAGE
Sophie English in her
studio with stacks of
vintage towelling.
ABOVE CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT So
English Vintage
towelling in pinks; A
diverse age range of
women are wearing
robes down on the
beach; So English
robes; Colour
swatches for the new
designs.
and Sophie’s corporate work dwindled. While
volunteering to make scrubs for doctors and nurses
during lockdown she looked at the piles of towelling
that had accumulated in her studio.
“I saw all these stacks I’d been collecting and
an idea I’d been mulling for a while reignited - to
design a range of robes to sell. And because of
the pandemic I had time to cut some patterns -
something I love to do - without the immediate
commercial pressure.”
Over the next year she pulled together a small
collection of robes - ten designs in all - and worked
with a graphic designer to create the So English
website. The business launched online in April 2021.
“To start with, my mailing list was very small, just
friends and family. The first year was tough, still living
with Covid restrictions, but we thought let’s take a
chance and see what happens,” remembers Sophie.
Cannily, she sent a robe to the fashion influencer
and author Erica Davies, who loved it and wore it
instantly, pictured next to a beach hut, and posted on
Instagram. Then fashion stylist Martha Ward included
a robe in a ‘What’s in my suitcase’ article for Conde
Nast Traveller magazine. With the help of print and
social media, So English gained some traction.
52 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt SEASIDE START-UP
Now, two years on, the brand is fully fledged
and the range includes the popular button-through
Ramona robe, the shorter Kiss robe and the Jackson
hoodie, plus a few other iterations as well as a
children’s range. Each summer, Sophie designs one
limited edition robe inspired by a piece of vintage
towelling from her collection - in 2023 it was the
Emerson print dress, comprising just 12 pieces.
Italian towelling is the fabric of choice and details
include vintage inspired printed collars, zipped
pockets, drawstring waists and cotton drill piping
that can be washed over and over without fraying.
The colour palette is vibrant and often chosen with
the input of her daughter Yve who is an illustrator
and graphic designer. “I love green, orange and
blue and teaming them with neutral colours such as
navy and almond to tone it down a bit. It’s my goal
to make things look lovely and feel good. Everything
is washable at 30C and the towelling doesn’t go
crunchy after washing.”
Sophie cuts the original pattern for each robe and
makes up the first sample in her studio. The final
designs are then made up in batches of 10 to 20
items at a time by small factories near London. “I
might get 300 to 600 metres of towelling from Italy
and farm out 50 metres to make up. Getting things
BELOW CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP These are
heirloom pieces to be
put away in winter,
and brought out again
in summer as part of
your holiday kit;
Sophie English in her
garden studio; A So
English robe.
A SHORT HISTORY OF TOWELLING
•	Towels were regularly used in the 1600s in
the Turkish city of Bursa where wealthy
people travelled to the Oylat thermal springs
to benefit from the healing mineral powers of
the waters. Afterwards, they were dried off
and covered up with soft cotton towels called
pestamel (bath wrappers), which originate
from the hammam or bathhouse culture of
the Ottoman Empire. Turkish cotton pestamel
are widely available today and are
lightweight, smooth in texture and absorbent.
• The weaving technique used to create pile
looped fabrics - or terrycloth - was invented
in France in the 1840s and the name derives
from the French verb ‘tirer’ - to pull. One
Samuel Holt, an Englishman, applied the pile-
looping technique to cotton which gave us
the cosy towels we use today.
•	Terrycloth or towelling beach and leisure
wear - shorts, shirts, jackets, tunics
- became popular in the 1950s. The fabric
was looped on one side and smooth on the
other and had more stretch than bath towels.
Sir Sean Connery famously wore a blue
terrycloth playsuit in the 1964 James Bond
film Goldfinger. As the 1960s and 70s
continued, terrycloth fabrics were screen-
printed with ever more exuberant patterns in
the colours of the day - often blue and pink
and orange and brown. It went out of fashion
in the 1980s but is enjoying a revival today.
made up in the UK is expensive but it means we’ve
got control of all areas of production and can be
much more sustainable,” she explains.
These are heirloom pieces to be put away in
winter, and brought out again in summer, ideal for the
changeable UK weather. Alternatively, some buyers
find themselves wearing them after they shower or
for putting on to potter in the garden.
“With a lot of use a robe might get a bit worn but
that’s part of the patina - they will last a long time,”
says Sophie, whose much-loved pink and white
robe is still going strong. On the So English website
and social media, there’s also a diverse age range of
women wearing robes down on the beach. “I don’t
want to have all 20-something models wearing them.
It’s okay to be over 50 and rock a bit of style.”
• soenglish.co.uk
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 53
coast PROMOTION
DISCOVER THE IDYLLIC
ISLES OF SCILLY
DURING SPRINGTIME
Explore the rugged landscapes and unspoilt
natural beauty of the Isles of Scilly, with their
fascinating native wildlife and beautiful bays
Life moves at a more leisurely pace
on the peaceful Isles of Scilly,
famous for their striking scenery,
sub-tropical gardens and vast, sandy
beaches. On this six-day trip you’ll
discover why so many people consider
the Isles of Scilly to be the UK’s most
idyllic archipelago.
This tour will take you to many of the
islands’ most unforgettable locations.
You’ll visit the sub-tropical Tresco Abbey
w Garden, described as “Kew without the
| glass”, the rugged coastlines of Bryher
£ and the quaint harbours of St Martin’s.
You’ll be delighted by the range of
J wildlife to be spotted on the Isles of Scilly,
g with many species that can’t be seen
2 anywhere else in the UK. The head of the
S Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust will give a talk
to explain the trust’s work and give you
an insight into the isles’ native wildlife,
which includes porpoises, dolphins,
seals, and many species of birds.
You’ll be based at the stylishly
comfortable Atlantic Inn on the isle of St
Mary’s, which will serve as your base.
Here you will enjoy delicious cuisine
made with local, ingredients, as well as
truly stunning views across the harbour.
REASONS TO BOOK
GORGEOUS GARDENS
Discover the world-renowned Tresco
Abbey Garden, a sub-tropical garden
home to plants from Brazil to New
Zealand and Burma to South Africa.
FULL DAY ON BRYHER
The beautiful isle of Bryher is a
highlight of any Isles of Scilly getaway.
Its rugged west coast and sandy
eastern beaches are a joy to explore.
WONDERFUL WILDLIFE
Many species found here can’t be
seen anywhere else in the UK. You
might spot dolphins, whales, seabirds,
or even the lovely Atlantic grey seal.
YOUR ITINERARY
DAY 1 St Mary’s DAY 2 Tresco DAY
3 St Agnes DAY 4 St Martin’s DAY 5
Bryher DAY 6 Departure
YOU WILL GET THE CHANCE TO
•	Spend five supremely comfortable
nights at the Atlantic Inn with breakfast
and dinner included.
•	Discover several of the stunning Isles
54 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
LEFT The Isles of Scilly are a truly special
place to visit. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE
Tresco Abbey Garden is home to thousands
of wonderful plants; Julian Branscombe, chief
executive of the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust, will
give a talk; The flowers and plants on Scilly are
very special; Enjoy a visit to beautiful Bryher as
part of the itinerary; Will your visit coincide with
puffin season?.
of Scilly, with their turquoise waters and
white beaches.
•	Go on a marine wildlife cruise to spot
some of the isles’ unique birds and sea
life.
•	Dine on the freshest local seafood,
caught right on your doorstep.
•	Visit the lovely St Martin’s Vineyard, a
unique coastal vineyard and winery.
•	Take a guided visit of Tresco Abbey
Garden, a renowned sub-tropical garden
home to thousands of wonderful and
exotic plants.
•	Spend a day with, have dinner with
and hear a talk by Julian Branscombe,
chief executive of the Isles of Scilly
Wildlife Trust.
•	Enjoy lunch at a local pub on St Agnes,
lunch at the Hell Bay Hotel in Bryher and
lunch on St Martin’s.
ALSO INCLUDED
Boat transfers within the islands, return
ferry from Penzance to St Mary’s,
guided walking tour of St Agnes.
HOWTO BOOK
PRICE From £1,799pp*
DATES April 22-27, 2024; April 27-May
2, 2024.
TO BOOK, CALL 02045 714 752,
quoting COAST SOLLIES
VISIT coast.tripsmiths.com/scillies for
more details and to see the full itinerary
See coast.tripsmiths.com for our full
range of holidays and short breaks
	OUR TRAVEL PARTNER
TS Tours Ltd is the UK's leading
specialist in creating bespoke
tours, cruises and rail journeys in
the company of experts.
T&Cs: *From price is per person, based on two people sharing a room, subject to availability, based on April 2024 departure. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but
may be subject to change. Single supplement £195 for April departure. Deposit 20 per cent. Local charges such as tourist tax may apply. Not suitable for those with
mobility issues. In the case of unforeseen circumstances, expert(s) may be substituted, and any expert-led events may be subject to change. Expert(s) will not join you for
your full trip duration unless otherwise stated. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used may not reflect your actual tour
experience. This holiday may be sold through other selected brands. Tour is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of TS Travel Limited (ATOL Limited).
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 55
Christmas Card Appeal
HANDCRAFTED MAP ART
(EST. 2013)
Every year the Shipwrecked Mariners’ Society
pays over £1M in grants to the dependants of
those lost at sea, as well as sick, disabled and
retired seafarers struggling to make ends meet.
Following the extremely difficult last few years
we are now in the midst of a cost-of-living
crisis which is blighting the lives of many who
feel helpless and vulnerable - particularly in
the often marginalised and forgotten seafaring
community we serve. Please help us to
continue our important work - thank you.
•	QUALITY CHRISTMAS CARDS
•	GIFTITEMS
•	CORRESPONDENCE CARDS
•	BIRTHDAY CARDS
•	MARITIME PHOTOGRAPHY
CALENDAR
To receive a copy of our new 2023
brochure and order form please contact:
SMS,1 North Pallant, Chichester PO19
1TL | Tel: 01243 789329
e-mail: general@shipwreckedmariners.org.uk
To view and order cards online, visit:
www.charitycardshop.com/sms
Working from our studio in Devon we create intricate topographic models of our scenic landscape.
Capturing each hill, valley and headland in perfect detail we are able to replicate any section of the
UK and beyond. Each piece is bespoke and meticulously hand cut from maps, nautical charts or
aerial photographs. We can even replicate the surface of the moon and other planets. The perfect
memento of our most cherished destinations.
nn Shipwrecked
LJ ГД Mariners’Society
Reg. charity no. 212034 | Inst. 1839
www.shipwreckedmariners.org.uk
info@landfall.co.uk www.landfall.co.uk
KATE LEWIS
Your	by the sea.
COASTLINE COLLECTION
www.katelewisjewellery.co.uk
Chesil Beach Lodge is owned by Paul and Joanne Loud and is situated on
the Dorset coast overlooking 99 miles of the beautiful Jurassic coastline. From
Portland to Start Point in Devon.
All apartments have breathtaking sea views from where you can capture
amazing sunsets.
Walk the South West Coastal Path right from the garden gate.
Explore the beautiful rolling countryside and picturesque cottages including
Hardy’s Cottage
Swim or sunbathe at either Hive Beach or Cogden Beach both only a 5
minute walk along a coastal path.
Enjoy fishing off chesil beach.
www.chesilbeachlodge.co.uk
BEACH LODGE
078 1 399032 1
COaSt TRAVEL
WEEKEND IN...
Quirky and independent, Cornwall’s northernmost
COaSt TRAVEL
n Cornwall’s northernmost
reaches, Bude is about as far
from civilisation as it gets. It’s
equidistant from Truro and
Exeter and barely ten miles from
Devon - it even has an EX
postcode, which is close to heresy
in these parts. The Tamar rises
eight miles inland, making this the
single strip of land attaching the
Duchy to England.
The train station closed in 1966
thanks to Dr Beeching, meaning
you have to make a real effort
to come to Bude. This could be
considered a good thing, in that
it means everyone you meet
g actually wants to be in Bude. And
g who can blame them?
With its stunning beaches,
| independent shops, colourful
* characters and fascinating
I history, this delightfully quirky
town dances to its own tune, a
ь breath of fresh Atlantic air. If the
E Beach Boys had been surfing
here, would we have been singing
about girls from Cornwall rather
than California?
Like many seaside towns, Bude
is a relative newcomer. Nearby
Stratton, a sleepy village today,
was once a thriving market town
with a lively leather trade, and a
judicial centre for an extremely
rural parish. During the 17th
century, Royalists troops were
victorious in battle here during the
First English Civil War.
At that time, Bude was a
modest tidal harbour, its potential
untapped. This would all change
- first, when local farmers realised
how beneficial the lime-rich
sand would be for their fields,
1 If the Beach Boys had been surfing here, would we
have been singing about girls from Cornwall? ’
PREVIOUS PAGE
Boats in the
harbour.
ABOVE Bude is a
popular tourist
destination for
good reason.
leading to the opening of the
35-mile Bude Canal in 1823;
then, with the Victorian zeal for
sea-bathing resulting in an influx
of visitors (gents and ladies were
segregated to Summerleaze and
Crooklets beaches respectively
- both are now happily unisex
destinations).
While the canal is strictly for
leisure purposes these days,
Bude still has pulling power with
tourists, and we were happy to be
among their number. We arrived
at our accommodation - within
Whalesborough luxury resort - on
Friday night, and after a superb
night’s sleep, headed straight into
town on Saturday morning.
58 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt TRAVEL
By far the best place to start
here is the tourist information
centre, one of the friendliest and
most helpful I’ve encountered in
Cornwall, staffed by people with
a genuine love and infectious
enthusiasm for their town. Better
still, call ahead for a chat, as I did;
having explained that our party
ranged from a pre-teen to two
octogenarians, they had enough
ideas to keep us busy for a month
(or two).
First: shopping. No identikit
high street here - Bude is chock
full of fantastic one-off stores,
from the traditional department
store (Wroes) to the arty souvenir
shop (Budeful - see what they did
there?). With a 12-year-old avid
reader in tow, it was impossible
to resist the lure of Spencer
Thorn’s bookshop, after which
we enjoyed a restorative cuppa in
Wroes’ first-floor ocean-view cafe
- the kind of emporium where,
TOP FROM LEFT
TO RIGHT
Sunset over
Summerleaze;
There are some
wonderful Atlantic
beaches in these
parts, including
neighbouring
Widemouth Bay;
The Bude Light
still stands
outside Bude
Castle today.
if they don't sell it, it probably
doesn’t exist.
Bude has a busy calendar
of events throughout the year,
from weekly craft and artisan
food markets to an annual jazz
festival, and even a Christmas
market in Crooklets’ beach huts.
Our trip coincided with Bude
Pride, a fab-u-lously loud and
colourful celebration of diversity
culminating in a concert on the
grass outside Bude Castle.
The Castle is a must-see
at any time of year, and not
just because it houses Bude’s
heritage centre. Built in 1830
on sand dunes overlooking
Summerleaze beach, it was the
home of Sir Goldsworthy Gurney,
a prolific inventor often described
as Cornwall’s forgotten genius.
His oil lamp was used to light the
Houses of Parliament and can
still be seen in Trafalgar Square
(albeit converted to electricity);
it’s known as the Bude Light, and
gave its name to the needle-like
statue that stands outside today.
The two miles of canal between
Bude and Marhamchurch are
now a popular leisure destination,
suitable for all ages and abilities
to saunter down the towpath. At
the town end, there are plenty of
cafes and craft outlets, some of
which offer regular workshops.
While my in-laws browsed, we
young folk hired a pedalo for half
an hour. Keep your head down
under the low bridge, and your
legs going (rowing boats are
available for those with more
dignity).
We headed back to
Whalesborough, where some
of our party had a swim while
I enjoyed a Gaia hot stone spa
treatment - so relaxing, I actually
fell asleep. We also tried out the
Jacuzzi, which looks out over
rolling hills towards
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 59
COaSt TRAVEL
I
COaSt TRAVEL
the picture-postcard tower of St
Marwenne’s at Marhamchurch.
What better way to end a
beautiful day than with a north
coast sunset? We bought lip-
smacking fish and chips from The
Mermaid in Princes Street and ate
them overlooking Summerleaze,
followed by an evening paddle.
Sunday began with a
morning tractor tour courtesy of
Whalesborough staff member
Tage. In summer, these go right
down to Widemouth Bay. We
then fed the excitable pigs and
friendly alpacas, and collected
eggs fresh from the hens.
That afternoon, we crossed the
A39 and sought out Gregory’s
Warehouse. During the summer
months, it’s open on Sunday
afternoons as a small museum,
manned by volunteers from Bude
Canal Trust. Leaflets and panels
explain how an innovative system
of inclined planes was used to
haul wheeled tub boats (one of
LEFT Tommy’s Pit
is a Victorian sea
pool.
BELOW Bude
Canal’s lower
reaches are now a
popular tourist
destination.
‘We then fed the excitable pigs andfriendly
alpacas, and collected eggs fresh from the hens'
which can be seen here) to the
upper levels.
We parked by Nanny Moore’s
Bridge, and I was fascinated to
learn it was named after a woman
who accompanied ladies to the
beach and helped them undress
and enter the sea appropriately.
Long before that, it was crossed
by Royalist troops during the Civil
War.
Once we’d returned to
Whalesborough for another session
in the Jacuzzi, our weekend was
almost over. Fortunately, we are
lucky enough to live close enough
and visit regularly.
I’d recommend Bude Sea
Pool, a part-natural, part man-
made swimming pool in the rocks
at Summerleaze Beach. Created
in the 1930s, it’s now run by a
local charity. Waters are, shall
we say, bracing. For a Victorian
throwback, head over to the other
side of the beach to Tommy’s Pit,
created in 1859 by Sir Thomas
Acland for male bathers. (The last
time I went there, I bumped into a
local who was taking his tortoise
for a walk - as I said, Bude is full
of surprises).
Bude’s proximity to the rough
Atlantic swell is not without a
cost. The 188-year-old Compass
Point, a coastguard lookout
fondly known as the Pepper Pot,
is currently being moved back
from the cliff edge, brick by brick
due to cliff erosion.	>
PHOTOGRAPHY: KIRSTIE NEWTON
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COaSt TRAVEL
PHOTOGRAPHY: WHALESBOROUGH
That this was crowdfunded to
the tune of £58,000 is testament
to Bude’s commitment to the
eco-friendly cause - this is the
home of the Two-Minute Beach
Clean - the campaign started by
Coast columnist Martin Dorey -
and the Cleaner Seas Campaign
endorsed by world famous band
Coldplay.
It’s highly likely that you’ll
reach Bude by car (although bus
links to the reopened Dartmoor
Line at Okehampton have been
increased, and there’s a dedicated
campaign to revive the railway in
Bude itself). I’d urge you to spend
a little time exploring this remote
but intriguing corner of Cornwall.
In Stratton, you’ll find The Tree
Inn, the sole survivor of 14 pubs
and the birthplace of Anthony
Payne, aka The Cornish Giant.
At 7ft 4in tall and 32 stone upon
his death in 1691, Payne’s coffin
was too large to go down the
stairs, so a hole had to be cut in
the floor to lower it through. His
portrait is a major feature in the
Royal Cornwall Museum in Truro.
An equally fascinating character
is connected with Morwenstow:
the Rev Robert Stephen Hawker,
author of the Song of the Western
Men (aka Trelawny). Much loved
for giving Christian burials to
shipwrecked seamen washed
up on local shores, he penned
verse in a wooden shack on the
South West Coast Path; it’s now
managed by the National Trust.
In the other direction on the
A39, you’ll find the two-screen
Rebel Cinema, and Poundstock
- home to the 16th century
Gildhouse, the best-preserved
example in Cornwall of a late
medieval church house and a
Grade I listed building. Opening
times are limited so check online
before visiting.
As Samuel Johnson might have
said, if he’d been able to visit this
21st century haven: “They who tire
of Bude, tire of life.”
Kirstie was hosted by Whalesborough, a collection of 24 luxury holiday cottages nestled
in 450 acres of secluded countryside on the outskirts of town (which is three miles down
the canal towpath if you fancy the walk). A mainstay of the Bude accommodation scene,
Whalesborough is now under new ownership, with ambitious plans.
The 14th Century farmhouse and adjoining 17th Century livestock barn have
undergone a sumptuous refurb. Capacious Whalesborough Cottage suited our
multi-generational group perfectly; our pre-teen daughter loved the chill-out den
with beanbags and 55in TV, while we grown-ups were seduced by the bifold picture
windows straight out onto the patio and Jacuzzi, overlooking rolling countryside.
A stone’s throw away, the complex’s central hub includes spa, swimming pool, sauna
and gym. At the entrance to Whalesborough on the A39, The Weir restaurant (and
highly informative wildlife centre) overlooks a picturesque fishing lake and the winding
River Neet. Its menu draws upon produce reared or grown on site or within a few miles;
summer Friday nights are Grill and Chill, offering flame-cooked meats and relaxing beats.
Animal lovers of all ages will love Whalesborough’s Little Farmers’ Club, which gives
kids the chance to have fur and feather encounters with everything from pygmy goats
and piglets to chicks and hens.
The cottage and farmhouse are new to market, and there are also eight detached
four-bedroom flagship eco-holiday villas that are available for sale, each costing
£749,950, due for completion in the early part of 2024.
• Call 01288 361940 or visit whalesborough.co.uk.
62 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
coast PEOPLE
COAST CHARACTER
Keeping it in the family has proved a winning formula for an iconic
seaside entertainment venue, as ANDY COOPER discovers
Roll up, roll up...Jack
Jay has a tale to tell
about showbusiness
in the blood and how
running an iconic
coastal entertainment
venue is something
PHOTOGRAPHY: GREAT YARMOUTH HIPPODROME CIRCUS
he felt destined to do.
Jack, 34, is the public face of Great
Yarmouth Hippodrome Circus, the
seaside venue which has been packing
’em in for years. One might suggest he is
the ringmaster of the enterprise - in front
of audiences and behind the scenes.
But as Jack himself would admit
that would be to downplay that the
Hippodrome is very much a Jay family
affair, with brother Ben helping to make
everything tick in his role as operations
manager. And then, of course, there is
their father Peter, the true reason the Jay
brothers have showbusiness coursing
through their veins.
Jay explains: “Dad bought the
Hippodrome in 1978 when it hadn’t been
used for many years and he brought it
back to life. That means we have grown
up never knowing anything other than this
place in our lives.
“At an early age I was involved...
watching from the wings and also
listening to the conversations mum and
dad would have about the place.” Indeed
mum Christine was equally involved with
the Hippodrome, often selling tickets at
the box office.
Ask what the Hippodrome Circus is
and the proper answer is to suggest
you visit for a show. Not only is there
entertainment aplenty on offer all year
round, the building itself should take
equal billing as star of the show.
Opening in 1903, it has played host to
all manner of shows and acts over the
years. It is now the UK’s only surviving
purpose-built total circus building and
it features the unique circus floor which
transforms into a pool at the climax of the
legendary Circus Spectaculars.
And the key to the venue’s longevity,
according to Jack, is the foresight the
family has sljown in adapting: “I can
remember when there were animals as
part of the shows, which clearly is not
going to happen today.
“Then in the 1990s clowns no longer
seemed so popular, so we adapted again
and changed the focus,” adds Jack.
It’s clearly a winning formula, with the
venue’s year-round popularity a testament
to the pull factor of both the shows and
the venue. And if Jack ever needs help
or advice when it comes to steering
the ship, then he can always call on the
ultimate expert - dad Peter.
“Dad is still around and has input and
why shouldn’t he?” says Jack. “He has
seen it all and taught us so much about
the business. At the same time he has
recognised that there is a new generation
now and we need to adapt to keep pace
with audience demand.
“It’s still such a thrill to see the joy in
the faces of the audience during the
shows.. .you really can’t beat that feeling
of knowing all your hard work and effort is
providing such pure joy in people.”
• hippodromecircus.com
coast
RECOMMENDED
HOT HOTEL
POLURRIAN ON THE LIZARD, CORNWALL
WORDS SUE MCQUEENIE
WHAT’S THE BUZZ? Perched high on
the cliffs of the stunning Lizard Peninsula,
Polurrian on the Lizard offers breathtaking
views across the Atlantic. Arst opened as
a fashionable railway hotel in the 1890s,
it still holds an air of elegant vintage
d glamour, but today it’s mixed with a heavy
§	dose of coastal-contemporary styling.
£ Standing proudly in its lawned gardens,
ш the hotel boasts panoramic views of the
£ coast and out across the ocean. Follow
| the winding path alongside the well-
§ tended flowerbeds, past the swimming
5 pool and tennis courts and you will find
J the hotel’s own private beach - the
secluded Polurrian Cove. As well as the
stunning outdoor pool, there is a health
club, featuring a 30-metre indoor pool,
gym and more.
The hotel has been through a period
of refurbishment, its revitalised Vista
Lounge is stylish and relaxing, offering
more of those spectacular ocean views.
The restaurant has also had an overhaul,
creating a comfortable dining space.
Stay at the Polurrian and you will be
following in the footsteps of some famous
names - Guglielmo Marconi, Winston
Churchill and Clark Gable all stayed here.
Indeed it was here that Marconi stayed
when he sent the first ever transatlantic
radio messages from nearby Poldhu
Cove.
WHAT ARE THE ROOMS LIKE?
There’s a wide variety of rooms to choose
from, including family rooms, suites and
villas. All the rooms come with luxurious
feather bedding, flat-screen TVs and
Elemis toiletries.
The newly opened Island
Suite offers three bedrooms, a well-fitted
out kitchenette, and has a private balcony
with hot tub. Best of all it comes with its
own ‘No Smoke’ Mini Moke
64 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt TRAVEL
LEFT The revitalised Vista Lounge is stylish and relaxing.,
BELOW CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Mini Moke is a fun
way for getting out and exploring; The hotel boasts panoramic
views of the coast and out across the ocean; Take time out to
relax in the health club; Choose from one of the villas for your
stay; You will have the very best of Cornish food on your plate;
Enjoy relaxed dining in the restaurant.
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 65
COaSt TRAVEL
LEFT The hotel has spectacular ocean views. ABOVE Enjoy the view from the
Island Suite’s private balcony with hot tub. BELOW The revitalised Vista Lounge is
stylish and relaxing.
which is surely the most fun way for getting
out and exploring the Lizard peninsula
with the wind in your hair. Make a beeline
for nearby hot spots including Kynance
Cove, Lizard Point and Cadgwith, the idyllic
Cornish fishing village.
BEST SEA VIEW? There are glorious
uninterrupted views across Mount’s Bay
and the Lizard Peninsula from the sea
facing rooms with the aptly named Vista
Lounge making the most of its floor to
ceiling windows, so you can enjoy a drink
indoors, or outside on the terrace as you
watch the sun set.
HOW ABOUT THE FOOD AND
DRINK? Relaxed dining is key here,
whether you choose to eat in the
restaurant or Vista Lounge you know you
will have the very best of Cornish food on
your plate, with quality seasonal produce,
mostly sourced from local suppliers all
within a 20-mile radius of the hotel.
Start the day right with a continental,
cooked or classic Cornish breakfast,
before you head out for the day. The
restaurant offers Mediterranean-inspired
meals, including glorious pizzas, cooked
to perfection in the newly installed wood-
fired pizza oven, together with gluten free
and vegan options and a full children’s
menu. Don’t forget to test out the hotel’s
wide range of local and artisan rums, or
even have a cocktail or two.
WHAT WILL IT COST? Rooms rates
start at £129 per night based on two
people sharing.
HOW DO I BOOK? Visit polurrianhotel.
com or telephone 01326 240421.
66 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
Cornwall's best-kept secret...
Set in a hidden valley garden, I lotel
Mendon offers a stylish retreat and
award-winning dining. Explore the
South West Coast Path from our
grounds, wild swim at our beach and
wind-down in Freddie’s Bar with a
handcrafted cocktail.
Accommodation offers and
dining can be booked online:
Meudon.co.uk
HOTEL MEUDON
STAY • EAT • CELEBRATE
MAWNAN SMITH, FALMOUTH,
CORNWALL TRI 1 5HT
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... escape to tfie
island
wood burners, winter walks,
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Call Lucy on 07980 986232
Delightful cottages sleeping 2-10 above Monks Bay, Bonchurch, Isle of Wight
www.oceanbluecoastalretreats.co.uk
Coast is partnering with the Ramblers each month to promote
coastal walking. In this month’s column, JACK CORNISH,
head of paths, highlights new research which accurately
demonstrates the value of walking routes
PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK
ur path network is a national
treasure. As our gateway to the
outdoors, it connects us to one
another and to the natural world
around us. And whether it’s
snaking along our dramatic
coastlines or branching out as we head
inland, it has a huge impact on our
health and wellbeing too.
And now, for the very first time, we
can put a number on exactly how
much of an impact it has. Together
with the New Economics Foundation,
the Ramblers have just published a
new report that has calculated the
staggering value of our path network:
£2 billion per year, over £33 per person
in England and Wales. That’s the same
as 8.5 million ambulance call outs or
nearly ten million outpatient procedures.
There’s no better way to find out
about this benefit than by exploring it
first-hand. And this stretch of coast
path running north of Bedruthan ranks
among the prettiest paths in the south
west.
You’ll start in Mawgan Porth, a small
village marking the point where the
River Menalhyl reaches the Atlantic.
It’s been settled since at least the
late Saxon period: excavations have
revealed a burial ground dating from
850-1050AD.
68 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt WALKING
Walking along the beach, you’ll
spot a sign for the coast path at
the edge of the dunes and climb a
path that winds rightwards up to
the cliff tops. Proceeding along the
cliffs, above Trerathick Point and
Cove, you’ll reach the walk’s finest
viewpoint, overlooking the Bedruthan
Steps and Carnewas Bay. A row of
colossal, pointed stacks, it is said the
Bedruthan Steps take their name from
a mythological giant, Bedruthan, who
used the stacks as stepping stones to
cross the beach.
After soaking in the views, the path
winds beyond the north end of the bay,
past ancient herringbone walls to a
headland dotted with Bronze Age burial
mounds. Venturing onwards, you’ll skirt
a series of craggy, wild coves, pass
through Porth Mear and round the
headland to approach Portchothan.
A popular surfing spot, DH Lawrence
and his wife Frieda once stayed in one
of the holiday cottages overlooking the
narrow bay for a while in the 1930s.
To pick up the coast path again, you
can either the ford the narrow stream
at the edge of the beach or head
through the dunes to cross the bridge
by the road. Once crossed, you’ll wind
your way across the headland, only
descending back down to sea level at
Treyarnon Bay, renowned for its natural
swimming pool.
Following the lane past the youth
hostel, you’ll cross north of the bottom
of Constantine Bay, named after the 6th
Century Cornish saint, and continue on
towards the rocks at the far end of the
beach. Skirting Trevose Head, home to
a lighthouse first opened in 1847, you’ll
pass Rick Stein’s glamorous Art Deco
home and drop down into Mother Ivey’s
Bay, named after a legendary local wise
woman.
Rounding Cataclews Point, the
route’s final headland, will bring you to
Harlyn Bay and Harlyn village. The bus
stop for the return journey to Mawgan
Porth, or east to Padstow, is next to the
bridge at the far southeast side of the
beach.
• For full route instructions, visit:
ramblers, org. uk/go-walking/routes/
bedruthan-cornwall-devils-steps
HELP Oa
©ИТ©@©[й§
ТОМИ
Pioneering research like this is
only one part of what we do at
the Ramblers to ensure everyone
can get out and go walking.
We’re already on the ground and
we need your support. All year
round, teams of Ramblers
volunteers give their time to keep
paths clear, open and well
maintained for everyone to enjoy.
And through our campaigning
work, we’ve opened up vast
swathes of the countryside that
was out of bounds and made
sure the right laws are in place to
keep it that way. Want to help us
open the way? Check out our
website to see how you can get
involved: ramblers.org.uk/
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 69
COaSt WALKING
PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK; JAKE BAGGALEY
w w...
Want to explore our wonderful path
network closer to you? Check out
these three alternative routes
High Halstow to the London
Stone, Kent
A finale to the Kentish Thames
walk featuring the ever widening
Thames, the famous Egypt Bay,
the lost resort of All Hallows, the
supposed mooring of the prison
ship from which Magwich had
escaped in Great Expectations and
the site of the London Stone which
marks the end of the river, tinyurl.
com/392jdcre
Garreg and Mostyn Estate,
Flintshire
Exploring the footpaths and
bridleways on the Mostyn Estate in
North East Wales, our route takes
us past an ancient Celtic Cross,
Maen Achwyfan, and a mysterious
tower, reputed to have originated
as a Roman Pharos, a lighthouse
intended to guide boats along the
River Dee to Chester, tinyurl.com/
yn2dzkpu
Plockton, West Highlands
A circular, picturesque walk from
Plockton via Duncraig Hill with
views of Duncraig Castle. And
castles aren’t the only attraction -
the village of Plockton was also the
location for the TV series Hamish
Macbeth and was used for various
scenes in the cult classic, The
Wicker Man. tinyurl.com/2rbamttz
The Ramblers’ research has
quantified the health and
wellbeing benefits of walking.
The Ramblers report did not just
uncover the staggering value of our
path network: it also highlighted stark
inequality in who gets to access it. For
the first time ever, we have analysed the
correlations between where the path
network is with national data sources
on the environment, socioeconomics
and health.
And we found significant disparities:
residents of the most affluent areas of
England and Wales have 80 per cent
more paths in their local area than the
most deprived. This gap widens even
further when we look at ethnicity: the
most white-dominated areas have 144
per cent more local paths than the most
ethnically diverse. And where health
outcomes are worst, the number of
paths is also lowest.
The report studied the available data
for every council in England and Wales
and identified those with the lowest
amount of paths. Six of the bottom
ten were found by the coast, including
Plymouth, Blackpool, Hull and north
east Lincolnshire. We also found that
in rural communities along the east
coast, from Kings Lynn in the south to
Grimsby in the north, there is a lack of
access to green walking environments.
This may seem counterintuitive but
living in rural areas, our report found, is
no guarantee of access to nature.
This is not an insurmountable
problem. In fact, we believe the
government is missing an open goal.
Doubling the size of the path network
would result in an additional 78.5
million walks every year, boosting
the network’s value beyond £2 billion
a year, and letting every one of us
experience the benefits of getting
outdoors. It could be the key to
reversing the declining health of our
coastal communities.
To find out more about the research,
visit: ramblers.org.uk/paths
70 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt TRAVEL
SUE McQUEENIE enjoys a relaxing break close
to a gorgeous stretch of the Welsh coast
he glorious sandy beach at
Amroth stretches for half a
mile and is a perfect
location for sunny beach
holidays, water sports,
swimming and dog walks.
Our Welsh trip took us to the beautiful
Black Hall Cottage - at the far end of the
Amroth sea front, perched just above this
flat, sandy expanse, with wonderful, far-
reaching views across the ocean. Our visit
coincided with some decidedly inclement
weather, so we weren’t able to make use
of the cottage’s exterior space, but, with
PHOTOGRAPHY: COASTAL COTTAGES
a pizza oven and barbecue, it must be
the perfect spot for an evening glass of
something cold whilst you soak up the last
of the day’s sun.
Inside, the cottage promises to be
‘home from home’ and it really does live
up to that pledge. Everything you need
for a comfortable stay is included, with all
of the tiny details thought about. It came
as no surprise to read in the visitor book
that the owners had stayed in the cottage
and upgraded it as a result of their stay.
Visitors are treated to a hamper on
arrival, and there are optional extras, as
well - we went for the Welsh-themed
hamper, which was filled with goodies.
You can also choose activities, including
guided walks, a cottage yoga session,
and even a pet parcel for your pooch!
The kitchen is extremely well equipped,
there’s a dining room with a large
table and a cosy lounge area, with a
woodburner for those chillier nights.
Upstairs there is a bathroom and three
double bedrooms, one of which has an
en-suite shower room. ITie rooms are
cosy and tastefully decorated, the beds
are comfortable and are all fitted out with
high quality bed linens.
We dodged the showers and explored
the coast for a bracing walk along part
MAIN Black Hall Cottage is located in a superb spot; INSET Inside is truly a home from home.
[FACT [BOH
We booked our break through
Coastal Cottages of
Pembrokeshire, a holiday cottage
agency that features around 500
properties in West Wales.
Run by a small local team with
first-hand experience of both the
area and every cottage, the
collection ranges from the
12th Century castle to a sailor’s tap
house close to the sea.
Forty per cent of the collection is
dog-friendly and the in-house
concierge team can also arrange a
selection of hand-crafted holiday
extras and treats including
welcome packages and exclusive
experiences.
Coastal Cottages’ Black Hall
Cottage in Amroth sleeps six
across three bedrooms and a
seven-night stay starts from
£840 and a three-night weekend
break from £631. It also takes two
dogs, (coastalcottages.co.uk,
01437 765765)
of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path from
Amroth to nearby Saundersfoot. In fact,
Amroth marks the start of the southern
section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
The route takes you along the sea front to
the main village, where you can choose
to either take a very steep stepped
footpath up to the top of the cliff, or the
slightly further, but definitely less arduous,
initial part of the route along the road.
From here the path goes across the
cliffs to Wiseman’s Bridge, where you
can stop for a refresher at the Wiseman’s
Bridge Inn. The bay itself was used for
rehearsals for the D-Day landings during
the Second World War, nowadays
though; it’s full of families and is perfect
for rockpooling. There’s also plenty of
space for dogs to let off steam; indeed
the whole stretch of the coast from
Amroth to Tenby is a paradise for dogs -
and their owners!
And then it was back to our home for
one last night, before leaving this stunning
comer of Wales. Black Hall Cottage
certainly proved to be the perfect location
for our stay, ideally situated, extensively
kitted out and a fabulous location for a
multi-generational trip.
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 71
COaSt PROPERTY
10 fabulous
COASTAL HOMES
to buy
From unique harbour-front homes to idyllic island hideaways, here is
this month’s round-up of cracking coastal properties on sale now
COaSt PROPERTY
-4 BEMBRIDGE, ISLE OF WIGHT
I (£2,750,000)
Lavender House is a stunning, modernised property
situated in the coastal village of Bembridge, set on
the sought after Swains Lane. The property, built to
provide high quality accommodation, comprises a
detached family home set across four floors including
a heated outdoor swimming pool, luxurious pool
complex/self-contained ancillary accommodation
and large landscaped garden, set within a plot
extending to just under 3A of an acre.
The house has an impressive, spacious and
modern interior, complemented by a Mediterranean-
themed exterior design. Lavender House enjoys
underfloor heating throughout the property on all
floors and a range of stunning double and triple
aspect rooms. BCM (01983 828800, bcm.co.uk)
• Thie price of this property was incorrectly listed in
last month’s Move to Isle of Wight feature. We would
like to apologise for our error.
2OLD PORTSMOUTH, HAMPSHIRE
£2,500,000
Periscope House is a uniquely fascinating home
located on the cobbled streets of Spice Island in
the conservation city of Old Portsmouth, a small
peninsular steeped in history on the edge of
Portsmouth Harbour.
Occupying a corner plot, this steel and timber
residence features eclectic styling throughout,
ranging from the 500-year-old imported oak floors
and carved 18th Century internal door frames to the
Italian-designed concentric kitchen which featured in
the Thunderbirds film.
At over 4,000 sq ft, spanning four floors, the
contemporary open plan layout features an imposing
31ft reception hall with lift to all floors, a steel spiral
staircase and a glass floor overlooking the aquatic
fitness and hydrotherapy pool on the lower ground
floor.
With two-storey high floor-to-ceiling windows
from the main living area, the first floor enjoys fine
southerly views over the harbour entrance and The
Solent while the kitchen has access to one of the
two balconies. There is also another double bedroom
with en-suite shower on this floor.
The impressive master bedroom also provides
fine sea views and benefits from sliding patio
doors to the main roof terrace. Fry & Kent (02392
815221, fryandkent.com)
3DARTMOUTH, DEVON
GUIDE PRICE £600,000
This is a spacious, end terraced property in the
very heart of the town, with forecourt parking and
a rear courtyard. The house is a substantial three
storey semi-detached four-bedroom property which
would benefit from some modernising. It enjoys
a completely level position with all of the town’s
amenities on the doorstep. Marchand and Petit
(01803 839190, marchandpetit.co.uk)
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 73
COaSt RR0RER7Y
4DYFFRYN ARDUDWY, WALES
£725,000
Tyddyn Du Farmhouse and Bothy present the
epitome of an idyllic country coastal lifestyle. This
four-bedroom detached stone farmhouse plus
one bedroom detached stone cottage (currently
a holiday rental) are situated in a beautiful rural
location, with sea views, traditional features and
beautiful gardens. Also included in the sale is an
extra plot of land with parking and sea views.
Secluded but not isolated, it is located on a
private road and in walking distance of the coastal
village of Dyffryn Ardudwy. The current owner
has undertaken a comprehensive programme of
modernisation and upgrading, sympathetically and
tastefully improving both properties whilst retaining
their original character and charm. Monopoly
(01978 800186, monopolybuysellrent.co.uk)
® ‘This is one
of И
properties
occupying
what was once
a gymnasium
for The Royal
Marines'
5WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA, NORFOLK
£1,895,000
This Grade II listed former merchant’s house is set
back from the beautiful quay at Wells-Next-The-Sea
on the north Norfolk coast. It has five bedrooms,
views of the sea and a wonderful walled garden. It
dates back to the 16th century, with stunning period
features including elegant panelling in many rooms.
Bedfords (01328 730500 bedfords.co.uk)
6WALMER, KENT
GUIDE PRICE £785,000
An impressive period property, situated in a
convenient yet quiet location just back from the
seafront, 10 The Old Gymnasium is one of 11
properties occupying what was once a gymnasium
for The Royal Marines. It offers versatile and spacious
accommodation over two floors.
Dating from 1871, the building is within a
Conservation Area and benefits from a secure gated
access via a communal atrium, along with two
freehold parking spaces located to the rear.
The property has been finished to a high specification
with integrated sound system, intelligent lighting,
attractive panelling to the first floor and solid
wood flooring. Bright and Bright (01304 374071,
brightandbright. co. uk)
74 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt PROPERTY
7ISLE OF TIREE, SCOTLAND
OFFERS OVER £575,000
This is a rare opportunity to acquire a magnificent
detached five-bedroom property, set in an enviable,
elevated location above Hynish Heritage Village on
the ever-popular Isle of Tiree and benefitting from far-
reaching coastal views across to the islands of Mull
and Iona. Bell Ingram (01631 566122, bellingram.
co.uk)
8CHALE, ISLE OF WIGHT
£795,000
A recently renovated detached cottage nestling in an
elevated position in the hillside with panoramic views
along the South West coast towards The Needles.
The ground floor consists of a cosy living room, open
plan kitchen/breakfast room, dining room, utility
room/WC, workshop and downstairs bedroom or
additional living room.
The first floor has three bedrooms with a large en-
suite bathroom plus there is also a separate shower
room. Purplebricks (07922 879666, purplebricks.
co.uk)
If you’d like to
advertise your
property for
sale in coast,
contact Zara
Mehmet on
07415 325673
or email
zara@talk-
media.uk
9NEWLYN, CORNWALL
PRICES FROM £990,000
A new development of four three-storey homes set
back from Chywoone Hill in Newlyn, these homes
feature a tasteful combination of timber cladding
and render. They are equipped with built-in solar
roof panels and air source renewable heat pumps,
and each has its own dedicated parking area and
a private garden. Stephens and Stephens (01872
264775, stephensandstephens.com)
pBWLCHTOCYN, WALES
I Uct,250,000
An outstanding opportunity to acquire a charming,
Grade II listed, detached five-bedroom residence
situated in one of the most desirable and tranquil
locations on the headland at Bwlchtocyn with
spectacular panoramic views. This superb property is
within walking distance of the beach and golf course.
Built in the 1600s, it is full of character and traditional
features and also has large gardens and grounds.
There are stunning views from every aspect. Tudor
Estate Agents (01758, 701100, huwtudor.co.uk)
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 75
R е с о с о
Are you looking for a coastal property?
Buying a property is much more than just finding a house. It’s about finding a place to call home.
We solely represent your buying interests, relieve you of paperwork, fruitless viewing trips and handle
complex, sensitive negotiations to your advantage.
We’ll give certainty about buying the right property, in the right location and the right price.
LONDON | COUNTRY | WATERSIDE
020 8938 3836 | www.recoco.co.uk
COaSt PROPERTY
COaSt PROPERTY
‘It’s easy to forget that Dublin is a coastal city
But Ireland’s capital is just a couple of miles
from the waters of Dublin Bay, with the scent of
the sea clinging to the River Liffey on days when
the wind blows in the right direction ’
78 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt PROPERTY
PREVIOUS PAGE The Giant’s Causeway is made up of 40,000 hexagonal basalt columns; MAIN IMAGE The Howth Cliff Path is probably the best hike in
the Dublin area; ABOVE Sligo ticks all the boxes when it comes to knockout scenery;
PHOTGRAPHY: TOURISM IRELAND
With white sand beaches,
dramatic cliffs and epic
seafood, Ireland’s coastline
is mesmerising. And
between the picturesque bays and tiny
coves, you’ll find charming villages and
bustling towns where you can make a
home for yourself.
Here’s my guide to eight cracking
coastal communities on the island of
Ireland worth exploring when it comes to
making the move:
SLIGO
Up on the north-eastern coast of Ireland,
Sligo is one of those counties that ticks
all the boxes when it comes to knockout
scenery. There are striking mountain
ranges, lakeside forests and cute
thatched pubs clinging to the edge of the
shore. But there’s also a thriving artistic
community, with theatre groups, art
galleries and more traditional music than
you can shake a fiddle at.
If you like to keep active then you’re in
for a treat - Sligo is the surfing capital of
Ireland, with the opening of the brand new
National Surf Caentre in Strandhill and a
solid reputation for big wave surfing in the
winter months.
Cyclists can make the most of quiet
country roads and epic (thigh-burning)
climbs and there are sea swimmers in
the water every day in Rosses Point. It’s
also a great county for food - you can
eat plump, sweet lobsters at waterside
restaurants, pluck wild oysters from the
shore and go foraging for seaweed.
WHERE TO BUY
The biggest coastal village is Strandhill,
with most of the properties found in the
sprawling (but still attractive) housing
estates around the strand. Pick wisely,
and you can probably get a sea view
without busting the budget, even if you
have to squint a little to see it. The more
chi-chi neighbour is the village of Rosses
Point, on the other side of Sligo town. The
houses here are more quaint, but come
with a bigger price tag.
If you’re happy to go rural, you can
pick up a bargain (relatively speaking),
particularly in the inland locations. There
are plenty of giant McMansions with little
charm, but also converted cottages and
derelict properties aplenty, if you’re not
shy of a challenge.
Sligo town is a buzzing place, with
characterful townhouses and apartments
overlooking the river that flows out to
the Atlantic. While the days of bargain
property finds here are long gone, the
prices are still favourable and you can
benefit from the amenities of town and the
public transport system.
HOW MUCH?
It goes without saying that anything with
water frontage or sea views comes at a
premium, but the properties a little further
inland are some of the best priced in
j Ireland. The average price for a three-
bedroom house in Co Sligo is €195,000,
; or €235,000 in Sligo town. In Strandhill,
I the average is around €357,500, while in
I Rosses Point the average is €562,500.
; TRAVEL LINKS
I Sligo is well connected with Dublin, with
> a regular train service that takes three
[ hours. Outside of the town, there are
I bus services linking most villages, with
! Strandhill and Rosses Point the best
; served - further afield, transport links
; are spotty at best. The nearest airport
> is Ireland West, with flights to nine
[ UK destinations alongside European
I locations.
! REALITY CHECK
; In recent years, there’s been a huge
J push to encourage remote workers to
i make their base in Sligo (which started
I long before Covid). However, while it’s
; easy to get fast fibre broadband in Sligo
| town, connection is slower in rural areas,
1 where you might have to rely on satellite
1 coverage. However, there are several
| digital hubs around, including a great co-
I working space in Sligo called The Building
; Block, with fibre-optic 1GB broadband,
J hot desks and meeting rooms.
! DUBLIN
; It’s easy to forget that Dublin is a coastal
, city. But Ireland’s capital is just a couple of
! miles from the waters of Dublin	—>
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 79
Tudor
Penrhyn Mawr, Bwlchtocyn, LL53 7BU
Tudor Estate Agents & Chartered Surveyors are
Delighted to offer Penrhyn Mawr for sale. This is a
Rare opportunity to acquire a charming, Grade II
Listed, detached five-bedroom residence situated in
One of the most desirable & tranquil locations on
The headland at Bwlchtocyn with spectacular
Panoramic views towards Abersoch, Llanbedrog &
The mountains in the distance.
The superb property is within walking distance of
The beach & golf course. Abersoch is a renowned
seaside resort situated on the south side of the
glorius Llyn Peninsula. Built in the 1600’s, the
Accommodation is full of character and traditional
features & briefly comprises of the following: - Porch.
Kitchen. Sitting room. Hallway. Lounge. Study/utility.
Downstairs toilet. Pantry room. Dining room. Five
Principal Features
Bedrooms & bathroom. Chalet. Three outbuildings
With potential. The house is approached via a private
© 3 Receptions & 5 Bedrooms
© Charming Detached Residence
О Chalet, Outbuildings & Gardens
© Amazing Views
driveway. Large gardens & grounds with ample
Parking. The stunning views are enjoyed from
Every aspect.
001758 701100 0www.huwtudor.co.uk
Beltane Stoves’ Chew
EcoDesign multifuel stove
Now is the perfect time to start planning
autumn/winter heating. For homeowners
who favour a classic-looking stove with
clean lines and fuss-free design, the Chew
design from Beltane Stoves is the perfect
multi-fuel stove, using either smokeless
coal or wood, for cosy afternoons curled up
with a good book. This 4.6kW model is big
on size as well as performance. Measuring
H606mm x W490mm x D320mm, it can
burn logs up to 35cm long and has a wide
ceramic glass window for a great view of
the flickering flames as they crackle and
pop within. An airwash system keeps the
glass clean and free from smoke deposits,
and the stove features easy to use air
controls and a robust cast iron grate. A
sleek chrome handle adds a touch of class.
www.eurostove.co.uk 01934 750500
ABOVE There are some beautiful properties in Kinsale; See craggy clifftops and tiny islands around Ballycotton.
Bay, with the scent of the sea clinging to
the River Liffey on days when the wind
blows in the right direction.
Just like the city itself, the county is
divided into the north and the south side,
with the most covetable (and pricey)
properties to the south of town. Here,
seaside villages like Dun Laoghaire,
Killiney and Dalkey have a combination
of Georgian townhouses, modernist
architecture and tiny seaside cottages,
alongside lively pubs, excellent restaurants
and pretty boutiques.
Move towards the north, and the most
desirable address is in the fishing village of
Howth, a peninsula around a 30-minute
train ride from the city. The restaurants
lining the pier and the edges of the
harbour serve top notch seafood fresh
off the boats, and the Howth Cliff Path
is probably the best hike in the Dublin
area, the route snaking up the top of the
heather-strewn hills with exceptional views
of the waves hitting the rocks below.
In the more northerly reaches
of the Dublin coast, the villages of
Portmarnock, Rush and Skerries have
more of a countryside feel, while retaining
reasonable connectivity to the city. Here,
the beaches are wide, windswept and
far less crowded than the more popular
spots to the south.
WHERE TO BUY
The biggest factor of your decision
making here is budget. Choose to buy
in Dalkey (where U2 lead singer Bono
lives) and you could easily hand over
€1 million without too much to show for
it. The most expensive houses in Ireland
are commonly found in this neck of the
woods, including the €3.5 million mansion
on Sorrento Road, where film star Matt
Damon resided during the first lockdown.
Dun Laoghaire is a pleasant seaside
town with a thriving Sunday market, and
while the property is still pricey there is
slightly more variety. If you’re looking
for a family-friendly community, the
northside villages of Rush and Skerries
are a great shout. Malahide is a pretty
coastal spot with a great food scene,
sailing clubs and excellent connectivity
to Dublin Airport, which is only a
20-minute drive away.
HOW MUCH?
Unfortunately, property on the Dublin
coast comes with a price tag that’ll bring
a tear to your eye. But if you skip the
glass-fronted houses on the Killiney coast
or the charming cottages on the cliffs of
Howth, you can save yourself a million or
two. For example, the average price in
Killiney is €715,500, while the average in
Rush is €379,000.
TRAVEL LINKS
International connectivity is a breeze at
Dublin Airport, with almost all UK hubs
supported as well as the vast majority of
European cities. It’s an excellent port for
the United States as well, with the US pre-
clearance facility in the airport meaning
you clear customs on Irish soil and land
as a domestic traveller in America, thus
skipping those lengthy immigration
queues at the other end.
« The DART train line links the city with
; the commuter and coastal towns all
I along the shore. The added bonus?
i It’s one of the most scenic train rides in
Ireland, the tracks running right along the
; edge of the sea.
: REALITY CHECK
The housing market in Ireland is tricky
I enough as it is, but in Dublin the demand
; is high, particularly for coastal properties.
’ That said, the market is slowing down
i and the interest crisis (though not as bad
! as in the UK) has reduced the demand
; somewhat.
CORK
Otherwise known as the ‘people’s
| republic’, Cork is a huge county on the
! southern tip of Ireland, home to some of
the most beautiful beaches in the country.
In East Cork, the coastline is a little less
; populated, both by local residents and
tourists (who usually flock to West Cork).
There’s not too much of a coastline
before you reach the outskirts of
Waterford, but what you do have is
I stunning - craggy clifftops and tiny
islands around Ballycotton, winding
walking trails around Knockadoon and
I wild swimming spots aplenty.
While the eastern parts of the county
; are a little off radar, West Cork is most
j definitely on every traveller’s agenda.
But as well as the sweeping stretches
• of blinding white sand and sparkling
' turquoise waters, there are cool coastal
communities where you can make your
! base.	x
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 81
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ABOVE Golfers will be drawn to the Royal Portrush Golf Club; Portstewart has a quaint, seaside resort feel.
WHERE TO BUY
As well as the more rural coastal spots
in Cork, there are buzzing villages that
have a bit of life to them. Kinsale is the
unofficial foodie capital of Ireland, with tiny
Michelin-starred restaurants, renowned
seafood bistros and gourmet fish and
chip trucks parked up by the water. An
added bonus.. .there are some beautiful
properties here, from narrow townhouses
lining the winding lanes of the village to
the old houses along the edge of the
harbour.
Clonakilty is a little further west and is
popular with tourists, which makes for a
slightly more congested experience in the
summer months. Rosscarbery is a smaller
community but an active one, with a
quaint market square in the village, pretty
beaches nearby and good coffee spots.
You’ll get more bang for your buck in
East Cork, where the coastal communities
like Youghal and Shanagarry have a wide
variety of homes on the market, as well
as decent schools and amenities. If you
want something a little more picturesque,
Cobh is a lovely spot with a handsome
cathedral, plenty of cafes and a line of
pastel-coloured houses known as the
Deck of Cards. It is a popular tourist spot,
though, and can get busy with cruise
passengers stopping off for the day.
HOW MUCH?
In the city, three-bed semi-detached
homes sell for an average of €335,000,
while in the broader county the average
price is €206,000. Obviously, properties
along the coast can go for an awful lot
more. In Kinsale, the average price is
€380,120, while the average in Cobh is
€282,500.
TRAVEL LINKS
Within around an hour of Cork city, public
transportation is great, with regular trains
and buses serving the local area. Cork
Airport is handy for UK connections as
well as European hubs - it’s just a short
drive from the city, too. It’s easy to get to
and from Dublin, with fast trains linking the
two cities.
REALITY CHECK
Accessibility can be trickier the further out
you go - in some areas of West Cork, you
can be a solid two hours from the city on
winding country roads. If you’re living in
a popular town, the tourist clog can get
a little overwhelming (and inconvenient)
in the peak season - think of it as the
Cornwall of Ireland.
NORTHERN IRELAND
The coastline of Northern Ireland spans
hundreds of miles and passes through
three counties, so putting the whole
country into one category may seem a
little reductive. But from the shores of
Carlingford Lough right out to the outskirts
of Londonderry, you’ll find striking sights
like the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge,
swinging 100 ft above the sea, and the
Gobbins, a Victorian cliff path that hugs
the edge of the shore.
Further north you’ll find the Giant’s
Causeway, a World Heritage Site made
up of 40,000 hexagonal basalt columns
that’s the namesake of the 130-mile
Causeway Coast drive.
There’s also the advantage that moving
to Northern Ireland is logistically far
easier for UK citizens. While the Republic
of Ireland is a Common Travel Area,
meaning residents of each nation can
move between the two with relative ease,
a move to Northern Ireland means you
won’t have to change things like bank
accounts, and will still have access to the
NHS.
WHERE TO BUY
Up on the Antrim and Londonderry
coast, the small towns of Portrush and
Portstewart make for an attractive base.
Golfers will be drawn to the former, for
its excellent courses, including Royal
Portrush Golf Club, which will host Tbe
Open again in 2025, and the renowned
golf club in the neighbouring Portstewart.
The main town of Portstewart has a
quaint, seaside resort feel, with pastel-
coloured houses lining the shore and ice
cream shops dotted along the promenade.
Not too far away, the village of
Bushmills (home of the eponymous
whiskey) is a couple of minutes from the
coast and impossibly pretty,	—>
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 83
COaSt PROPERTY
PAY A VISIT...
Looking to get a taste of Irish life before you commit to the move? Take a break in one of Ireland’s most beautiful
coastal hotels to dip your toe in the water.
CUFF HOUSE HOTEL, WATERFORD
Overlooking the bay in Ardmore, the Cliff House Hotel has one of the best locations in Ireland. All of the rooms (as
well as the Michelin starred restaurant, spa and common areas) have views out over the sea, and there’s a stairway
that leads you right down into the water for a dip. There are also two separate houses available to rent, one a sleek
and luxe Beach House with six en-suite rooms, a gym and floor to ceiling windows, and the other a rustic Beach
Cottage that sleeps up to six.
Rooms from €269, cliffhousehotel.ie
ARMADA HOTEL, CLARE
Perched on the edge of Spanish Point in the western county of
Clare, the Armada Hotel (named for the ships that wrecked off
the coast) is a hip, family-run property with a great restaurant
and a modern, nautical sense of style. The swimming spot is just
a short walk away, and you’ll often see sea swimmers popping
back to the hotel for a morning coffee and a pastry. There are
more boutique rooms over the road in Armada House, with
antique furniture and an excellent bar.
Rooms from €195, aimadahotel.com
THE DRIFTWOOD, SLIGO
There are four impeccably designed bedrooms over this seafood restaurant in Rosses Point, where you can get a
platter of local oysters downstairs before toddling up to bed. The best of the rooms have sea views and an in-room
rolltop bathtub, complete with seaweed-based toiletries from the luxury local brand, Voya. Everything is close to
hand in Rosses Point, from the seaside sauna and swim spot to the golf club and cosy local pubs.
Rooms from €129, thednftwood.ie
HADDINGTON HOUSE, DUBLIN
Set in a Victorian building overlooking the sea in Dun Laoghaire,
this boutique hotel has an effortlessly slick decor, combining
William Morris wallpaper and herringbone blankets with swish
minibars and ocean views. Each room comes with a woven
swim bag with beach towels and a hot water bottle for dips in
the nearby Forty Foot, and the outdoor dining area is bliss on a
sunny day. The cocktail bar downstairs is one of the best in
Dublin, but the city is just a 20-minute train ride away.
Rooms from €145, haddingtonhouse.ie
FANAD LIGHTHOUSE, DONEGAL
While lighthouse living is probably best reserved for the hardiest
of seafarers, the cottages at Fanad give you a taste of the
keeper’s life without the long-term commitment. The lighthouse
itself is a Wes Anderson style dream, perched on the craggy
cliffs at the tip of the Fanad peninsula with white sand bays and
fiercely blue waters below. In the cottages, the style is eclectic
and cosy, with views that will keep you mesmerised for hours
upon hours.
Cottage from €350 for two nights, fanadlighthouse.com
84 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt PROPERTY
PREVIOUS PAGE The coastal city of Westport is full of life; Kerry could be on a postcard for the Tourism Ireland.
with old stone cottages and a handsome
market square at its heart.
If you wanted to stick to a place with
better accessibility, Bangor is a solid
choice. Just half an hour’s drive from the
centre of Belfast, you’ve got the ease of a
city on your doorstep with a pretty marina
and access to the sea. The country park
and beach at the nearby Crawfordsburn
are both lovely, and there’s easy access
to Belfast via the coastal train. Holywood
is even closer, right next to Belfast City
Airport with a lovely stretch of beach and
some fantastic homes.
HOW MUCH?
In the Causeway Coast and Glens region,
the standardised price is £198,603,
and you can get a home in Portrush
for around that amount. In Bangor, the
average price is £220,638.
TRAVEL LINKS
There are two airports in Belfast -
George Best Belfast City Airport is just
five minutes from the city, and Belfast
International Airport is just a little further
afield. Both serve UK and European
airports. The public transport from Belfast
is great, with a train serving Portrush via
Coleraine on a scenic route Michael Palin
described as “one of the most beautiful
rail journeys in the world”.
REALITY CHECK
Unless you’re looking in Bangor, the
villages and small towns along much
of the Northern Ireland coastline are in
fair demand, so it can be tricky to lock
down the property you want. Outside of
Portrush, public transport can be tricky
and the journey back to the city lengthy
at times.
MAYO
The Wild Atlantic Way is a 1,500-mile-
long coastal road that snakes down the
west of Ireland, from the tip of Donegal
down to the bottom of Cork. Al along the
way there are 150 jagged waymarkers
that point out particularly striking sights
- but an impressive 30 of these discover
points are found in County Mayo, which
sits between Galway and Sligo. Such is
the beauty of this spot, with tiny islands,
gleaming beaches and a smattering of
blow holes and sea stacks all along the
shore.
WHERE TO BUY
The coastal city of Westport is full of
life, with a buzzing pub and trad music
scene, great places to eat and a pretty
main village. If you want to move a little
further towards the sea itself, the tiny
village of Louisburg is a great shout and
the main ferry point for Clare Island. Just
over the bay is Achill Island, where The
Banshees of Inishehn was partly shot
- accessible by bridge, it’s the place
to be if you fancy a spot of untamed
wilderness.
HOW MUCH?
You can expect to find a three-bedroom
place in Westport for around €250,000,
or up to €500,00 for more bedrooms and
land. There are houses for sale on Achill
for between €260,000 and €350,000.
KERRY
Kerry is one of those counties that looks
like it could be on a postcard for Tourism
Ireland. With giant, lush mountains rising
around calm lakes, old stone cottages
and scraggly sheep ruling the land, it’s like
a checklist of epic Irish scenery.
And the coast is even more
impressive, with sweeping beaches,
perfect waters and historic, otherworldly
islands that were featured in two of the
latest Star Wars movies.
Outside of the main towns, life
can feel very secluded in a matter of
minutes, but there’s always a bit of life to
be found. Plus, the small airport makes
that long drive to the capital much
easier.
WHERETO BUY
Kenmare is a great town right on the Ring
of Kerry, which gives you a great balance of
coastal living with the inland scenery right
on your doorstep. If you’re after desolate,
windswept views and a bit of seclusion,
anywhere along the Iveragh Peninsula will
work perfectly. Dingle is a tun town that’s a
little further flung, with the Blasket Islands
not too far away.	—>
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 85
ABOVE Bundoran has undergone something of a renaissance in recent years. Ardmore is possibly the most scenic town in Waterford.
HOW MUCH?
You can find turnkey properties in
Kenmare for around the €300,000 mark,
with some central houses for as little as
€200,000. In Dingle, houses with land are
typically around €600,000, with properties
in the hitting the market at around €350-
400,000.
DONEGAL
For a long time, Donegal was one
of Ireland’s forgotten counties. More
northerly than Northern Ireland, this giant
stretch of coastal land was fairly tricky to
get both to and around - it’s one of the
few counties without a train service. But
the scenery here is up there with the best
in the land, with mesmerising mountain
ranges, craggy shorelines and charming
little villages along the way.
WHERE TO BUY
Steer clear of the bigger towns of Donegal
and Letterkenny, where there’s not a
whole lot of character. If you want to
be in a town environment, take a look
at Bundoran, which has undergone
something of a renaissance in recent
years. It has an exceptional beach and
easy access to Sligo.
For something more remote, try the
villages of Rathmullan or Ramelton, both
endearingly cute and quaint. If you want
the full Castaway experience, check
out the rural properties on the Fanad
peninsula or the outskirts of Dunfanaghy.
HOW MUCH?
You can find beautiful rural properties for
around €250,000, even with sea views -
and some go for far, far less. In Bundoran,
there are often three- or four-bed homes
for less than €200,000, and apartments
for around the €100,000 mark. Demand is
a little higher in Rathmullan and Ramelton,
but you can find beautiful homes for less
than €300,000.
WATERFORD
There are more than 60 miles of coastline
in Waterford, from the outskirts of the
county capital to the shore that nearly
touches the edges of Cork. It’s a coast
that varies tremendously, too, from the
J scalloped beaches of the Copper Coast
' to the pretty fishing villages and harbour
; towns further south. Depending on where
I you are, it’s easy to move between Cork
i City or Dublin, with fast roads and a
1 trainline that connects Waterford with the
I capital.
 WHERE TO BUY
; Dungarvan is a picturesque town with
' fish and chip stands along the water, top
’ notch restaurants and charming old stone
। buildings. It’s at one end of the Waterford
। Greenway, a cycling route that links this
‘ town with Waterford itself, along a 29-mile-
; long off-road trail. Ardmore is possibly the
| most scenic (and coveted) town in the
i county, with a curve of white sand and
! houses lining the cliffs around the water.
; HOW MUCH?
; You can get a two-bed apartment in
Dungarvan for around €200,000, or
; a three or four bed house for under
| €400,000. Properties are hard to come by
i in Ardmore but there are regularly sites for
1 sale, if you fancy a project.
"The scenery here is up there with the best in the land,
with mesmerising mountain ranges, craggy shorelines and
charming little villages along the way’
86 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt PROPERTY
WHAT YOU CAN GET FOR YOUR MONEY
Here are some of our favourite houses for sale in Ireland
GALVALLY GARDENS, PORTSTEWART (OFFERS OVER
£350,000)
The biggest selling point of this modern townhouse is the large
balcony which, while not close enough to the sea for ocean views,
does have a view of the Northwest 200 track. The house has three
bedrooms, two bathrooms and off-street parking. Portstewart
(causewaycoastsales. com/4-galvally-gardens-portstewart/889973)
DANESFORT, KILLINEY (ASKING PRICE €2,450,000)
On the prestigious Killiney Hill Road, this five-bedroom, three-
bathroom house is a showstopper. There are two formal reception
rooms, open fireplaces and a generous garden with mature trees
and a swimming pool. The nearest beach is a ten-minute walk away.
Killiney Hill Road, Dublin (sherryfitz.ie/buy/house/dublin/killiney/
danesfort-killiney-hill-road)
MYROSS ISLAND, CORK (ASKING PRICE €650,000)
This south-facing property has uninterrupted views of the West Cork
coastline, as well as 1.5 acres of land to play with. The brilliantly
named Squince Beach is a five-minute walk away, with the town of
Skibbereen a 20-minute drive away. There are six bedrooms, a
modern kitchen and both a huge garage and workshop on the
grounds. Myross Island, Union Hall, Co Cork (charlesmccarthycom/
property/myross-island-union-hall-p81 -w653/)
BRAMBLE COTTAGE, STRANDHILL (ASKING PRICE €1,150,000)
A unique property in the highly sought after Sligo village of Strandhill,
Bramble Cottage features period stylings like exposed beams and a
thatched roof, but was only built in 1995. It was extensively
renovated recently, with a huge Californian-style kitchen leading out
to a patio dining space, with views of Knocknarea mountain to the
rear, (lisneycom/property/bramble-cottage-scarden-beg-strandhill-
road/)
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 87
Britannia
Movers
Moving you from
A to B... and sea
With branches from coast to coast,
our fully-trained staff take the
stress out of moving day. We have
been moving people to their dream
locations for over forty years.
Where can we take you?
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Contact our friendly team today
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IS IN 12522
REMOVALS STORAGE SHIPPING
COaSt PROPERTY
COASTLINES
Relocation specialist NIGEL BISHOP casts his expert eye
over the coastal property scene
The UK has over 11,000 miles
of coastline. To summarise the
extensive adventures possible
along the coast in a single
monthly column is challenging - maybe I
should write a book!
The Victorians first discovered the
seaside when travel beyond their own
limited environment became possible.
Promenades and piers were built, mobile
changing vehicles to preserve modesty
were sited on beaches and - then male
and female bathers were allowed to
share the water space! Fast forward to
the 21 st century where there are nudist
beaches and - when the sun comes
out - the population of all coastal towns
explodes.
Age dictates the adventures: people
choose from water sports - sailing,
kite surfing, fishing, rock climbing,
coasteering, horse riding (maybe a
gentle donkey ride on the beach!),
walking the many designated coastal
footpaths or just sunbathing. Audio tours
explore the history of a bygone age of
smugglers on remote headlands such as
Morte Point in North Devon. Falmouth
this year played host to The Tall Ships
Race - a spectacle and history lesson
rolled into one.
On a cultural level, hop over the
border to Scotland and explore
Kirkcudbright - on the banks of the River
Dee - first and foremost a fishing village
but made famous by E.A. Hornel, one of
The Glasgow Boys art movement in the
19th century, and to this day a mecca
for artists. As with the Newlyn School in
Cornwall and St Ives, the light is perfect
for artists.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP 5 Castle Rock enjoys one of the finest views of the rugged North Devon
coastline; Britons Slip is arguably the finest waterfront property in Falmouth; Buyers get two for one
with Lower Nunton Cottage and Little Nunton.
To conclude any trip there, visit
Annandale Distillery in Dumfries
and Galloway - recently put on the
international map by the iconic Scottish
actor James Cosmo - known best for
his roles in Braveheart, Game of Thrones
and His Dark Materials, to name a few.
He worked alongside the distillery and
put his name to create a new whisky -
Storyman.
There are still many places around the
coast where light pollution hasn’t hidden
the night sky, so a late evening walk
provides a natural spectacle older than
the planet on which we live.
Here’s my pick of three delightful
coastal properties for sale this month:
Britons Slip is arguably the finest
waterfront property in Falmouth - a
historic detached waterfront house on its
own private stone quay with slipway and
pontoon. Jonathan Cunliffe is the selling
agent (Jonathancunliffe. co. uk).
5 Castle Rock, Mortehoe, is an
impressive, three-bedroom apartment
in an uncompromised location, enjoying
one of the finest views of the rugged
North Devon coastline. Fine & Country
(fineandcountry com).
Lower Nunton Cottage and Little
Nunton in Borgue, Kirkcudbright offers
two delightful rural cottages in an
elevated setting overlooking Dhoon
Bay. A perfect retirement/home-income
investment opportunity. Williamson &
Henry (yvilliamsonandhenry. co. uk).
As ever, our coastlines are a magical
place that man has been drawn to in a
quest to enjoy the natural elements of
the sea whether as a day trip or to put
down roots and settle because, after all,
“/t’s all about coming home”.
PHOTOGRAPHY: JONATHAN CUNLIFFE;
FINE & COUNTRY; WILLIAMSON & HENRY
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 89
The Sir Peter Scott Lighthouse
is an iconic building in an
amazing location.

COaSt DREAM HOME
CALL OF
THE WILD
KATE CHAPMAN discovers how one couple have restored an
historic lighthouse in the Lincolnshire marshes so they can
share its legacy and rugged beauty more widely
PHOTOGRAPHY: KATE CHAPMAN
Doug and Sue Hilton have
an emphatic description
for the Sir Peter Scott
Lighthouse, which they
bought in 2010, namely:
“The most important
building in global conservation history.”
To further emphasise the point,
Doug adds: “It is the most powerful
lighthouse in the world - yes, others
may be taller and bigger, with a brighter
lantern, but no other lighthouse has had
so many things happen to it or made
such a difference around the world.”
One of a pair located at the mouth
of the River Nene, in Sutton Bridge, the
lighthouse - also known as East Bank
Lighthouse - was designed by Waterloo
Bridge architect John Rennie in 1830 to
celebrate the final stages in the drainage
of the fens and mark the entry to the sea.
From 1933 to 1939 the remote
outpost was home to conservationist
Sir Peter Scott - son of doomed
Antarctic explorer Sir Robert Falcon
Scott - and it is his legacy the Hiltons
want to share with the world.
Often regarded as the greatest
naturalist of the 20th century, Sir Peter
built up a large collection of wildfowl
while living at the lighthouse, which sits
in a commanding position on the Wash
National Nature Reserve - the biggest
reserve in England covering 8,880
hectares.
It was while travelling the world for
rare geese to add to his lighthouse
collection he came to realise there
was a need for a global conservation
organisation to preserve breeding,
feeding and migration habitat and
threats, explains Doug. It was this
thinking which later led him to establish
the Wildlife and Wetlands Trust in
1946 and go on to become a founding
member of the World Wildlife Fund in
1961.
“There’s nothing from the highest
mountain to the depths of the deepest
ocean that has not been affected by the
time Sir Peter spent in this lighthouse, it
affects everything,” says Doug.
“Conservation is its ethos, its soul.
As lighthouses go, it is incredibly comfy
and cosy and really an amazing place
to be, but we moved too far away
from it a few years ago to be able to
visit regularly now. We still love it as
much as we always have	—>
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 91
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A room with a view - from the top of the lighthouse; Inside the lounge; The entrance door; A carving by Sir Peter Scott, dated
November 1937, inside the lighthouse.
and didn’t want to sell. We wanted
other people to be able to see it and
experience it, and now finally they can.”
The couple bought the 60-foot
lighthouse while they were still living in
Kent, where they looked after Buckland
Lake Reserve, through their own
Snowgoose Wildlife Trust.
“We spotted the lighthouse for sale in
a magazine and immediately arranged
a viewing,” recalls Doug. “We fell in love
with the wild landscape, the building
and its wonderful heritage straight away
and were delighted when our offer to
buy it was accepted.”
Within a few months Doug and Sue
had made ambitious plans to open
a visitor centre and museum so they
could share Sir Peter’s story more
widely but despite their best efforts the
project stalled due to funding.
They moved to Wales in 2018 to
be closer to their family and young
grandchildren and considered selling
the historic landmark but in the end
couldn’t bear to part with it. Instead,
they decided to turn it into holiday
accommodation so that others could
still experience it and its surroundings,
which are regarded as ‘the last great
wilderness’ due to the vast expanse of
tidal saltmarshes, creeks and mudflats.
“It is very unusual to be able to
actually stay in lighthouse itself due
to frequent damp penetration and
weathering problems, so people usually
end up staying in an adjacent cottage
or building, but here guests can actually
live and sleep in the main tower. Just
like Sir Peter himself did. It really is a
very special place,” smiles Doug.
The lighthouse has been refurbished
many times over the years including
once by Sir Peter himself, who added
the ground floor studio. After he left for
war, it was requisitioned by the army in
1940, and later leased to several others
including the Fenland Wildfowlers.
For ten years it lay empty and ruined
until it was sold for the first time to
Commander David Joel in 1985, who
refurbished it, replacing the roofs and
36 windows as well as rendering the
brickwork.
It has taken the Hiltons two years to
make the property - which has quirky
circular rooms and sloping walls - ready
for guests.
Doug adds: “As a grade II* listed
property, the lighthouse is almost on a
conservation grade par with Hampton
Court, so we had to be careful with
the materials used, particularly in
the kitchen. The beating heart of the
building is its ethos, if you take away
that by modernising it too much, you
lose its soul, so we’ve been very careful
and sympathetic with what we’ve
done.”
There are reminders of Sir Peter
at every turn - from black and white
photos of him at work and prints of his
paintings hanging up, to a small row of
geese he carved into a lintel along with
his signature. The remainder	—>
92 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt DREAM HOME
FEATHERED FRIENDS
With its big skies and amazing wildlife spectacles it is easy to see why
Sir Peter was drawn to the Lincolnshire wilderness.
Hundreds of thousands of birds over winter on the reserve each
year including skeins of pinkfoot and brent geese, colourful shelduck
and waders while seals breed and can often be seen basking nearby,
making it the ideal place for ornithologists and nature lovers.
Doug and Sue have also introduced rare geese at the lighthouse
breeding ponds.
"There are red-breasted geese and Hawaiian geese, which are
among some of the rarest breeds in the world,” says Doug. "When
Sir Peter first came to the marshes, Hawaiian geese were facing
extinction - there were only around 20 left.
"He somehow managed to get two from the wild, but the next
year, both laid eggs until finally a male was obtained. He is credited
with saving the breed. We have chosen this breed as a tribute to his
collection.”
The lighthouse and the surrounding wilderness also inspired Sir
Peter’s friend, American writer Paul Gallico to pen his famous novella
The Snow Goose, which is set at the lighthouse and loosely based on
him.
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 93
coast DREAM HOME
Hi
____UGMYMWJt GAUJBY
‘The beating heart of the
building is its ethos, if
you take away that by
modernising it too much,
you lose its soul, so we’ve
been very careful and
sympathetic with what
we’ve done’
94 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt DREAM HOME
PATRON SAINT OF CONSERVATION
Described by Sir David Attenborough as “the patron saint of conservation”, Sir
Peter was 25 when he first came to East Bank Lighthouse.
After a near death experience on the Wash while wildfowling one night he
finally reached its shores and was so taken by the derelict building he took over
its rent and converted it into his first home.
“As a young man, Sir Peter’s life could have gone so many ways, whatever
he wanted to turn his hand to he succeeded at, but none of it was good
enough to get out of the shadow of his father, Captain Scott, who died when
he was two,” says Doug. “Being at the lighthouse pulled him into focus.”
Sir Peter made his living painting the birds and wildlife that surrounded
him but was also an accomplished ice-skater, Olympic yachtsman, television
presenter and gliding champion.
After the Second World War he never returned to the lighthouse, although
he started to pursue the ideas he had developed for global conservation while
there.
For the remainder of his life he was involved with radio and television
broadcasts, global campaigns and went on to write several books before he
passed away in 1989, two weeks before his 80th birthday.
of the decor is neutral, so as not to
detract from the building itself and other
artworks on display include Sue’s own
gauche, pastel and silk paintings, also
inspired by the wildlife found on the
Lincolnshire marshes.
The main building has four bedrooms
spread over its five floors, including one
in the recently converted basement. A
magical Narnia-style door leads from a
PHOTOGRAPHY: SNOWGOOSE WILDLIFE TRUST
downstairs bedroom into the galley-
style former garages - now home to
a modern games room complete with
pool and football tables.
One of Doug’s favourite parts of the
restoration has been the reinstatement
of the commanding sketching window
in the lounge. “Sir Peter installed this
large window, and it became one of
his favourite spots to sit, sketch and
study the surrounding wildlife - we were
really keen to get this back in place so
our guests would be able to share the
views which captivated him so much,”
he adds.
Steep ladders lead to the fifth-floor
gallery where the lighthouse lamp takes
pride of place. Set on a timer, it still
works today, and along with another
in the opposite West Bank lighthouse,
they guide ships navigating their way to
the port.
The historic landmark is also ideally
located to explore the nearby north
Norfolk coastline, Sandringham Estate
and other birdwatching facilities at
Welney Wash and Frampton Marsh.
“With so much peace and
tranquillity, it truly is a unique
experience to stay in the lighthouse
- it’s close to the Norfolk coast and
there’s so much wildlife to see here
and along the riverbank walks.
“We love the big skies and the
sunsets, but just live too far away now.
The building has a new future and
that’s what we wanted - to let others
experience it and its history. As long
as that is happening, that is all I need,”
concludes Doug.
• lighthouseholidays.uk
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 95
FOR SALE IN LYTHAM ST. ANNES
DUNEPOINT, LYTHAM ST ANNES
£330,000
This superb mid terrace two bedroom purpose built town house is one of a mix
of luxury apartments mews town houses nestled in the sand dunes at this gated
complex known as Dunepoint, constructed in 2007. Being within yards to the
beach, Dunepoint has its own direct beach access. This particular property has
a superb full width SUN TERRACE and SUN BALCONY with SOUTH WEST
FACING views over the sand hills.
FOR MORE INFO GET IN TOUCH TODAY
TEL: 07966 872407 | EMAIL: TQCYPRUS@GMAIL.COM
The Workings of Nature	www.obairnadair.art
obairnadairart(a)qmail.com
COaSt INTERIORS
TRINKETS AND
BAUBLES
Christmas is getting earlier. Not the date itself but the
planning. So if you haven’t got your baubles yet this year,
don’t leave it too long, says interiors writer CAROL BURNS
* ew things let you express your tastes as
much as Christmas can. If you want to
________ go minimal and hygge, collect your
white-washed twigs and artfully arrange
them with your brown paper and
string-wrapped presents. If you want
something a little louder, get untangling those
multicoloured lights and drape across everything
horizontal.
For most of us, Christmas is a mix of what went
before with a few new things to freshen things up.
Handmade Christmas decorations by children with
more enthusiasm than skill will usually make it on
there, along with a few treasured decorations passed
down the generations. The rest is probably an odd
assortment of baubles, tinsel and strings of lights.
The tree itself is a personal thing. I won’t begin
to tell you how to decorate it...although a real tree
(potted so it can be replanted) is hard to beat. When
it comes to what goes on the tree for some less is
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 97
COaSt INTERIORS
more. If you are stuck, try picking out
two dominant colours - for example,
bronze and white. These work best with
neutral lights. If you go for multicoloured
lights, you can go wild with lots of
different coloured decorations on your
tree or stick to a single colour like white
or red.
The presents you add underneath
should form part of the overall look
(although you can’t control what other
people’s presents arrive in). Match
wrapping to your overall colour scheme.
There are an increasing number of
reusable fabric or cotton gift bags now
on the market, which help make the
wrapping part of the gift. You can reuse
them by giving them to someone else
or use them for all kinds of things, a
handy iPad carrier, or even a lunch bag.
I’ve found the bags can garner more
pleasure than the gifts inside.
For your mantlepiece, head outside
and collect as many different evergreen
branches and twigs as you can find.
In my garden (and in the hedgerows
nearby) I can pull together privet, bay,
fern and pine, as well as a sampling
of rosemary, bay leaves and olive tree
leaves (I tend to miss out holly as a
health and safety issue). This mass of
textures and tones of green should then
be banked up on the mantlepiece. Be
generous - the more you add the better
it will look. Once you have it looking
right, pull out those broken baubles
we all have sitting at the bottom of the
decorations box and add into the nooks
and crannies, the hole where the string
should be should go on the bottom.
Then it’s really about looking at what
else you have available.. .pine cones is
a popular one and the classic oranges
with cloves also add colour and aroma
(keep an eye on them for mould).
The evergreen will have a natural
smell, but scattering cinnamon sticks
and star anise will really give it punch.
Finish off the look with votive candles
or nightlights (don’t use real candles for
obvious reasons).
You can also slice oranges thickly and
dry them (very slowly) in the oven. These
orange discs can also be threaded
and hung on trees or added to your
98 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
COaSt INTERIORS
1	Mantelpiece with mistletoe wreath. Iights4fun.
co.uk
2	Duchy reindeer family. Iights4fun.co.uk
3	A Christmas tree in every room, gardentrading.
co.uk
4	Fold-up metal Christmas tree, coxandcox.co.uk
5	Dried orange slices make a lovely festive
decoration. Photography: Shutterstock
6	Make your own Christmas wreath kits from
highgateflorist. co. и к
7	Using pine cones in the right place will add to
the festive feel. Photography: Shutterstock
8	Traditional rustic Christmas tree.
starsuniteeurope. eu
9	Use tree offcuts to decorate your house.
gardentrading, co. uk
mantelpiece display. They also look great
on your door wreath (note: I’ve tested
drying out grapefruit, lemons and limes
in the same way, but they never look as
good as the oranges).
It’s nice to add a touch of Christmas in
every room of the house. Those twinkly
deer and woodland creatures that have
appeared on lawns in recent years have
now made it into the house. Add one to
graze in your hall if you have room. You
can also curl up your unused Christmas
tree lights and put into a glass vase to
light up a dark corner.
And if you find yourself unable to go
full out this year, a simple poinsettia will
always add a splash of Christmas colour
wherever you put it.
Happy holidays!
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 99
coast DOGS
-SEADOGS
Rounding up all the latest news and information to help
you enjoy time at the beach with your dog
TOP TIPS TO MANAGE YOUR DOG’S STRESS DURING FIREWORK SEASON
While people let off fireworks
for various celebrations
throughout the year, once
the countdown to Bonfire
Night starts, their flashing lights and loud
bangs can regularly be seen and heard all
the way through to New Year’s Eve.
Here experts from Charley Chau,
award-winning dog bedding company
for over 12 years, share their tips on
managing your dog’s stress during
firework season:
*1 Early de-sensitisation. Instead of
I waiting for the first firework to go off, it’s
sensible to de-sensitise your dog to the
sound of fireworks well in advance. This
isn’t difficult to do but it needs to be done
over time - ideally a few months but the
advance planning can really make a huge
difference. Try watching this brilliant video
from Battersea Dogs and Cats Home
which shows how to tackle this: tinyurl.
com/34wmbv8n
2Stay calm and stay in. Dogs feel our
vibes, so if they see us panic at the
first bang for fear of how it will impact
them, they’ll sense it and that can often
make things worse. Try to stay calm,
act as normal as possible and avoid
excessive fussing. Instead offer gentle
reassurance and don’t crowd them. On
the worst nights for fireworks, stay in so
your dog has the calm influence of your
company.
~7 Adjust your dog’s routine. Wholesale
О change to routine can be stressful
for some dogs, but small adjustments at
this time of year make total sense. Walk
your dog earlier in the day or earlier in the
evening and time outdoor loo breaks to
happen before the main fireworks kick off
- feeding times may need to be changed.
4Security check. Fireworks and
sudden flashes of light can trigger
a flight response in dogs, so ensure all
areas of your garden are secure. When
out walking in the dark (even if your dog
is normally 100 per cent on recall), there’s
always the chance your dog might bolt if
frightened, so stick to on-lead walks only.
5 Play some music. Once it gets dark,
draw the curtains and put on some
calming doggie music to drown out
the outside world. There’s lot of online
resources that have music programmes
that are specifically designed to help calm
dogs.
6Create a safe space indoors. It’s
important that your dog has a cosy,
safe space indoors to retreat to if they
are nervous. Place your dog’s bed
somewhere sheltered to give them a
better sense of security - and keep their
bed away from doors to the outside and
windows. If your dog seems calmer close
to you in times of stress, make sure their
bed is moved to a quiet and preferably
sheltered spot near to you.
7Distraction tactics. Licking is a self-
soothing action for dogs that releases
endorphins in their bodies that helps
them to relax. So anything you can
provide to encourage your dog to lick, or
even chew, can help. Games that require
lots of sniffing are also brilliant; hide treats
and send your dog to sniff them out to
keep them distracted.
• charleychau.com
IN ASSOCIATION WITH FORTHGLADE
Chicken with Apple Meaty Bites are a super indulgent grain free treat for your four-legged
best friend. 75 per cent chicken with only natural ingredients, containing no junk or
fillers. Suitable for dogs aged 2+ months. 70g bag, £3-25 from forthglade.com.

100 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
coast DOGS
DOGS of the MONTH
We have had so many lovely pictures of pooches sent in by readers that, rather than
have one Dog of the Month, for this issue we’ve decided to dedicate a whole page
to a selection of six of them!
If you would like to
NOMINATE YOUR POOCH
to feature in Dog of the
Month, please email us at
к coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk
This is Bob, our rescue Saluki Lurcher, on the
South West Coastal Path at Peppercombe on
the North Devon coast. Barbara Harding,
Ansty, West Sussex.
This is my three-year-old miniature schnauzer
called Austin. We’ve just spent a marvellous
week on the Isles of Scilly and he took
everything in his stride - sleeper train, bus,
taxis, ferry, tripper boats and a speed boat
instead of the helicopter back. Caroline
Bumess-Smith, Lewes, East Sussex.
Our Welsh springer Megan is pictured taking
in the view of Appledore from Instow beach in
Devon. She enjoys the shade as, like the rest
of us, she doesn’t want too many wrinkles
from sitting in the sun! Derek Hall, Sutton
Coldfield, West Midlands.
I thought I’d share this pic of our
nine-month-old miniature schnauzer pup,
Ralph. We visited the sands at Camber for an
overnight stay and he had tremendous fun
chasing his favourite ball along the sands at
low tide. Andy and Marcus Johnson, Ногат,
East Sussex.
Here is Woody enjoying the beach at Polly
Joke in Cornwall. We are always at the beach
as we have lovely one just down the road from
home and we are five-minute drive from West
Wittering beach, which is quite
famous. Cornwall is the place we always head
to though as we love it there especially around
the Crantock/Polly Joke area. Sylvia Watkins,
East Wittering, West Sussex.
Here’s Burt and Ernie enjoying an evening
walk on the beach while on their holiday at
Sennen in Cornwall - this was their first
holiday in Sennen, enjoying some evening sun
and some great walks. Liz and Neil Lavis,
Pewsey, Wiltshire.
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 101
CASTING О
Artisan knitwear maker Jessye Boulton tells NICOLA SMITH how she is
combatting fast fashion from her studio in the wild west of Cornwall
When Jessye
Boulton’s Mum
taught her
to hand knit
when she was
just four years
old, it ignited a passion that laid the
foundations for Jessye’s career. After
graduating from Winchester School of
> Art in fashion knitwear and knitted textile
В design, she set up her artisan knitwear
z brand in west Cornwall.
T
Her studio is in an outbuilding at her
f family home in the historic hamlet of
| Boswarthen. Just three miles inland
н from Penzance, and betwixt Cornwall’s
S north and south coasts, it is reached by
climbing high up onto exposed moorland
before winding along a dirt track and
through a dairy farm.
“I can see the sea from the house and
I love going on coastal walks,” Jessye
says. ‘A lot of my inspiration comes
from being out and about, exploring and
observing the landscape and the colours,
and feeling the elements.”
It is easy to see how the rugged
coastal landscape bleeds into Jessye’s
colours, textures and patterns. Her
handknitted beanies are a selection of
sea blues, moss greens and soft ochres,
while her scarves come in deep marine
and pebble. The fabrics, too, feel like
part of the natural environment - Jessye
works with sustainable yarns such as
lamb’s wool, silk, mohair and cotton,
which are biodegradable and, as she
says, “will return to the soil after a life of
good wear”.
Jessye developed her love of slow
fashion while studying for her degree.
To that end, each piece in her collection
is made using hand-powered knitting
machinery. The techniques leave little or
zero waste, and each piece is designed
and made to last.
As Jessye explains, traditionally a lot of
knitwear in the UK comes from Scotland
or the Midlands. ‘Tm doing something
quite unique by bringing it all down to
the other end of the country. I don’t
102 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
mind being away from many of the other knitwear
designers. I think people really value the story and the
honesty of Cornish knitwear, inspired by the Cornish
coast and landscape, and made here.”
Jessye first launched the business, then Jessye
Boulton Knitwear, in 2019, and she sold her first
products at a market at the well-known art space,
The Exchange, in Penzance. The business was
relaunched as Carn wear (Carn means ‘pile of rocks’
in Cornish) in 2021.
In the summer, Jessye enjoys sea swimming off
Penzance’s Battery Rocks, a rocky headland south
of Penzance harbour, tucked behind the famous art
deco Jubilee Pool. “It’s close to home and it’s lovely
being able to get in the sea straight from the rocks.”
When she is walking the coast, Jessye will take
photographs of heather, rocks and stone, for
example, and also sketches too. “I work out which
colours work well, and back in the studio I will play
with the colours and use different yarns, twisting then
together to reflect the landscape.”
While Jessye harbours aspirations to grow
Carnwear, she is committed to slow fashion and
using sustainable production methods and natural
yarns. All the products are hand finished, and are
often made to order.
She concludes: "I want to keep it small and craft
PREVIOUS PAGE
Jessye creates her
products by hand at
her studio in West
Cornwall.
ABOVE CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT Jessye
on the cliffs near St
Agnes, wearing her
British Wool rolled
hem jumper; At
Gwenver, West
Cornwall, Gwiylm
keeps warm in a Silas
beanie and saddle
sleeve lambswool
jumper; Carnwear’s
rusk eco beanie in
grey husk reflects the
Cornish landscape; A
well-travelled Dubied
knitting machine is
Jessye’s pride and
joy.
focused, and very hands on. My brand is Cornish,
and while I will possibly outsource the hats and
scarves in future, I don’t want to outsource out of
Cornwall.” • carnwear.uk
THE GANSEY
The traditional gansey has been a staple part
of a fisherman’s uniform since the 18th
century. The hand-knitted jumper originated
in Guernsey but became popular in UK
fishing communities, and in the 1700s and
1800s many Cornish women knitted ganseys
to make extra money.
The gansey is made using rugged, five-ply,
indigo blue worsted wool and ultra-fine
needles. They were knitted using a tight
weave, designed to protect fishermen from
the elements. The front and back of the
jumpers were knitted identically so that, if
holes wore in the elbows for example, they
could be reversed.
Gansey patterns usually featured maritime
symbols, and would differ from one fishing
village to another. Some families even had
their own unique gansey pattern.
coastmagazine.co.uk COAST 103
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EDITORIAL
Editor: Andy Cooper
Art Editor: Lee Caple
Contributing Editor: Caroline Wheater
With thanks this issue to: Liz Blakeborough, Sara
Bond, Matt Dixon, Ross Hayward, Sue McQueenie
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104 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
Directory
COASTLINE JEWELLERY
Beautiful, bespoke handcrafted jewellery inspired by coastlines and landscapes around the world
Handmade by Hannah Louise Lamb
07740164809 www.hannahlouiselamb.com
Pet Friendly, Luxury Self Catering Accommodation for 2
at 7 Harney Peak, Portinscale, Keswick
www.harney-peak.co.uk | harneypeak a outlook.com | 07812993275
PATTARD NORTH DEVON COAST
Luxury barn conversions sleeping 2-8
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Pets welcome in accommodation.
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On site Restaurant
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Tel 01237441444 for table reservation
COaSt CELEBRITY
MY COAS
You might expect Oz Clarke’s happy place to be among the vines but it
is the Kent coast that harbours some of his fondest memories
WORDS REBECCA PITCAIRN
I grew up near
Canterbury and the
Kent coast was our
playground. Day-to-
day that playground
was Herne Bay, about
three or four miles from
PHOTOGRAPHY: OZ CLARKE; SHUTTERSTOCK
where we lived, and where we would
go sailing and swimming. Although, we
got more excited when we managed to
get across to Minnis Bay, at Birchington,
because it had sand, which was an
absolute thrill. Plus, the ice creams
seemed to taste better there.
My father was the chest physician for
east Kent so, sometimes, he would go
to The Royal Sea Bathing Hospital at
Margate, which of course now is a block
of luxury flats but was a wonderful old
hospital then. He would leave us at Herne
Bay or, for a treat, at Birchington, while
he’d go and do some work and pick us
up at lunchtime. It was wonderful how life
was in those times, no one ever thought
about the dangers you might get yourself
into. If you could swim, you’d be fine,
and if you did get into trouble, there was
always someone around willing to help.
On occasion, my father would take a
break from the hospital and join us. In
fact, that’s how I learnt to swim, in the
waters off Herne Bay when I was six or
seven, my father wearing these funny old
swimming trunks, the same ones he wore
his entire life.
But, for me, one of the most magical
of places is the White Cliffs of Dover. I
remember the first time my father took
us up to the cliffs. We parked the car and
clambered up to where you can see an
old First World War railway line that used
to run down to the docks.
We’d stand up there on the White
Cliffs, looking out to this fabulous foreign
place called France, just over the English
Channel from where we were standing.
It’s always been such a magical place to
me.
One Christmas, after stuffing ourselves
full of turkey, my mum decided we should
go to the cliffs for a walk. Christmas Day
is the one day of the year Dover Docks
is shut. All the lights are on and the
ships are there, but nothing happens.
And as dusk came we stopped and
looked down, it was totally silent. Nothing
moved. It was like it was frozen in time.
And there we were again, nobody on the
cliffs, except us. And, if we looked over
the channel, we could see the glistening
lights of Calais. When my mum died and
went to meet her maker, we held her
wake on those cliffs.
There’s something about this coastal
spot that offers such comfort and
counsel. I go there to walk and ponder.
Ponder life and love, with the breeze in
my hair, the sun on my face and the whiff
of salt water in my nostrils.
• English Wine: From Still to Sparkling
The NEWEST New World Wine Country
by Oz Clarke is out now.
106 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk
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