The Cube

cornw ll

Find your perfect
hideaway
Cornwall: a coastline of rugged cliffs and secluded coves; unspoilt countryside;
quaint market towns and pretty villages. All on your doorstep when you choose a
Cornwall Hideaways property - from cosy cottages to luxury retreats, there’s the right holiday
home for everyone. And as many of our properties are pet-friendly, that includes the dog!

01872 888 631
cornwallhideaways.co.uk
Do you have a property you would like to let with Cornwall Hideaways?
Request our Free Property Letting Guide to find out more.

newowners@cornwallhideaways.co.uk
The Hideaways family I COTSWOLDS HIDEAWAYS I DEVON HIDEAWAYS I DORSET HIDEAWAYS I GLAMPING HIDEAWAYS
ISLE OF WIGHT HIDEAWAYS I NORFOLK HIDEAWAYS I SUFFOLK HIDEAWAYS I YORKSHIRE HIDEAWAYS

26
CONTENTS

OCTOBER 2023
Cover story

FEATURES
26

34

39
50
55

69

TAKING A LEAD Meet the
canine coastal heroes...and
discover the best doggie places
MAGICAL MORECAMBE
Why the Eden Project chose the
north west for a new opening
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS 12
top coastal vineyards to visit
STEPPING OUT Revealed: a
secret Somerset walk to try
WEEKEND IN BRODICK
Head to the Isle of Arran for a
very special 48 hours
REWARDING RETURN How a

jeweller returned to her roots
inspired to create a business
108 GAP IN THE MARKET The
scheme aiming to keep
fishermen’s teeth healthy

HOMES & PROPERTY
75

83

SUPER SPOTS FOR SALE
Our selection of 10 of the very
best coastal homes to come
on the market this month
MOVE TO THE ISLE OF
WIGHT Why buying property on
the island opens up opportunity
for those who move there

SAVE £46

ON THE
SHOP PRICE
OF coast
See page 16
for details

Cover image: Dog walkers
enjoying the beach at
Saunton Sands, Devon.
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK

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COA ST 3

Plan your dream South West getaway

The South West’s most luxurious holiday homes,
with a bespoke concierge service for every stay.
Image shows Overcombe
in Bigbury-on-Sea

Call: 01208 895 570 | Visit: www.perfectstays.co.uk

Scan to discover
your perfect holiday

CONTENTS

OCTOBER 2023
90

DREAM HOME Inside an
amazing Scottish property
97 SEA SMELLS Get the scent just
right in your home with advice
from our interiors expert
101 MOVING ADVICE Our relocation
expert’s latest news

44

54

61

REGULARS
8

11

16
18

23

24

PICTURE THIS An atmospheric
image of boats at night-time on the
beach at Dungeness in Kent
BEACHCOMBER All the latest
news, art, people, style and
happenings by the sea
SUBSCRIBE TO COAST... And
save £46 on the shop price
10 THINGS TO DO Great ideas
for getting out and enjoying some
time on our coastline this month
AND THERE’S ANOTHER
THING Columnist Martin Dorey
takes a dip in some amazing outdoor
pools up and down the country
COAST COMPETITION Win a
two-night luxury break in Cornwall
for you and a plus one

39

63
64

66

102
105

111
114

THE SHIPPING FORECAST Our
columnist enjoys the special shelter of
the waters around Plymouth Sound
COAST CHARACTER Meet the
surfer taking steps to protect the
ocean...one lip balm at a time
MARINAS NEWS Updates on all
things boating and berthing as we
focus on marinas on our coast
COAST COMPETITION Win a
stay at a luxury Cornish property
COAST CONFIDENTIAL
The inside track on great things
happening on our shores
COASTAL WALKING Meet the
walkers behind a pioneering project
working to open up our footpaths
COAST COMPETITION Win a
luxury cruise on the Scottish coast
SEADOGS Products and holiday
ideas for coastal canine owners, plus a
very poignant Dog of the Month
HOW TO BUY A COPY Plus how
to contact the team at Coast
MY COAST Actor Brian Blessed on
why the Yorkshire cliff s provide
inspirational memories for him

34
83

66

54
108

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COA ST 5

Let your holiday home with

the local experts...

Own an inspiring home or looking to invest in a holiday rental? With
nine regional offices and over 30 years’ experience, Toad Hall Cottages
deliver a level of local service unmatched in the industry, combining
hands-on support and invaluable knowledge from local teams with
the marketing power and expertise of an industry leading agency.

Call our team today to unlock your holiday home’s potential
www.toadhallcottages.co.uk | 01548 202020
Local Agency | Award-winning Service | Innovative Marketing | Bespoke Management Options

coast ED’S LETTER

WELCOME
uch was the thrill when the
Eden Project first started
taking shape in Cornwall, I
even visited whilst it was being
constructed when the team
behind the scheme cannily
offered the south west public the chance
to go on tours of what was essentially a
building site.
But what a building site it was! I can still
remember the open-mouthed wonder
I experienced on arrival. Those iconic
domes were taking shape in the bowels
of a former chalk pit like some alien
spaceships which had landed on Earth.
I have been back many times in the
intervening years and there is still such
a thrill on seeing that outlook from the
viewing platform, with all the wonders of
the Eden Project laid out before you.

And Eden has not only changed the
landscape…it has helped to transform the
economy and the image of Cornwall too.
The draw of visiting the county has only
got bigger since it became home to this
world class attraction.
Which is why it is exciting this month
to feature the plans Eden has to open
another venue in Morecambe, which one
hopes will mean equally exciting times
ahead for this region of the north west,
which is special enough anyway, but is
on the verge of getting a sprinkling of the
Eden magic dust to take it to another level.
And if they are offering chances to tour
the north west Eden Project whilst it is at
the construction stage then I will be first in
line wearing my hard hat!
Until next time…and enjoy the magazine.

Andy Cooper
Editor

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THE CREW

Introducing some of the team who helped bring the Coast pages to you this month
LOUISE BRYNING
Louise Bryning is a
Lancashire-based freelance
journalist who also provides
publicity support to
organisations, mainly in the
arts and heritage sectors. She
has strong links to Morecambe
where her Sandgrown’un dad and grandmas were
born and which she visits weekly to enjoy the ever
changing views across the famous Bay.

RACHEL MEAD
Never happier than when she’s
following new footpaths,
Rachel invites you to join her as
she explores the often
overlooked county of
Somerset. In this issue Rachel
is off to Brean Down, where a
new walking festival is showcasing the secrets of
the Somerset and Exmoor coastline.

REBECCA PITCAIRN
Rebecca has over 18 years’
experience as a journalist and
editor working predominantly in
regional media. Having
completed the WSET Level 3
Award in Wines, she now
specialises in writing about the
wine and vineyards of England and hosts a
podcast called The English Wine Diaries.

c oas tm agaz ine.co.uk

COA ST 7

coast PICTURE THIS

8 CO AST

co as tm agazine.co.uk

coast PICTURE THIS

STAR STRUCK

This atmospheric image of boats on Dungeness beach in Kent
was taken by Susan Pilcher, who is a dedicated exponent of
astrophotography.
Susan explains: “I have lived in Romney Marsh since I was aged
ten and developed a love for photography from an early age. In
2016 I was challenged to try landscape astrophotography to show a
new perspective of Romney Marsh at night. An obsession was born.
“Since then I have spent hours at night – many times freezing to
death and getting scared stiff by things that go bump in the night
– around Romney Marsh and other parts of Kent, with Dungeness
always being a favourite spot.
“This photo was taken in June 2022 when we had a number of
wonderful clear nights in a row and when the galactic core of the
Milky Way was so clearly visible to the naked eye.
“Photography - and particularly landscape astrophotography - is
an all-consuming passion and hobby as in my day job I work in the
perfume industry.”
• Find out more about Susan and see more of her work at:
footprintsphotos.net

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COA ST 9

Helping you get
More More More
from the great outdoors

Durness, Lairg, Scotland
near Altnaharra Club Campsite
Photo by Kevin Allen

More… UK campsites than any other UK touring Club
You can choose to stay at over 2,400^stunning locations throughout the UK. As a Club
member you’ll save £15 per night every time you stay on one of our quality UK Club
campsites, over 50 of which are open all year. That’s your membership saved in just
four nights! With no hidden extras at Club campsites, enjoy free hot showers, electric
hookup and Wi-Fi, pitch your awning for free, plus kids under 5 and dogs stay for free.†

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*Caravan and Motorhome Club membership is £59 when paying by annual direct debit, price valid until 14 December 2023.^2,400 campsites refers to our UK Club campsites, Certificated Location
campsites and Affiliated Sites.†At all UK Club campsites: Under 5’s and dogs stay FREE. Awnings are included at no extra cost when staying on an appropriate pitch type. FREE electric hook-up
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FREE Wi-Fi service available at 146 UK Club campsites. Copyright © 2023 Caravan and Motorhome Club. All rights reserved. Information correct at time of print.

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •

BEACHCOMBER

Every month, we trawl the nation’s coastline to bring you news of the
people, places and exciting events that are worth knowing about

FIND OF THE MONTH
Extend the holiday fun with a wallpaper that reminds you of a favourite seaside spot – the new
collection at Joules, created in partnership with Graham & Brown, includes Name The Plaice,
£48 per roll, and is paste-the-wall so easy to hang. (joules.com)
c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 1 1

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •

Compiled each month by Caroline Wheater

CATCH OF THE DAY
1 THIS HANDMADE MUG
Sip your morning cuppa from
a stoneware, wheel-thrown
mug made by ceramicist
Nina Paloma who works near
the Kent coast – her 330ml
Gull Mug has a hidden gull
egg painted on the inside.
(£36, ninapaloma.co.uk)

2 THIS CUSHION

3 THIS TEA TOWEL

4 THIS SOAP

Falmouth-based company
Sati uses pomegranate rind
and peanut husk dyes in its
all-natural, block-printed
yoga and meditation
accessories, such as the
Mustard Stripe Zafu cushion.
(£85, satidesign.com)

Dynamic young designer
Corinne Alexander has come
up with a bold new Fish &
Chips tea towel design,
made from premium cotton.
A framed print of the design
is also available. (£14,
corinnealexander.co.uk)

Rich in Fair Trade shea
butter, Sea Kelp natural soap
has a seaside scent derived
from rosemary, spearmint
and eucalyptus oils, while the
plantable paper wrapping is
dotted with wildflower seeds.
(£8, bloominsoap.co.uk)

WHAT’S FLOATING YOUR BOAT? Let us know on our Facebook page, facebook.com/coastmagazine, or email us at coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk

In between Lyme Regis and Sidmouth lies Seaton Wetlands, a
nature reserve with nearly 4km of level trails and boardwalks.
Freshwater Seaton Marshes and inter-tidal lagoon Black Hole
Marsh both attract wildfowl and waders in winter, and this summer
saw a county first – a newly hatched family of avocets.
“Strategic plans to attract avocets have long been in place and
it’s a magic sight to witness them breeding here,” says East Devon
councillor, Geoff Jung. wildeastdevon.co.uk.

FUN EXTRAS
PLASTIC FANTASTIC
“We’re all part of the solution,” says artist
Karen Bowskill, founder of Tideline Prints,
referring to the torrent of plastic washing up
on our beaches every day. Karen is making
her contribution by using plastic waste she
picks up on her local East Devon beaches to
create unique, textile printing blocks.
These are combined with reclaimed
leathers and linens and made into small
batches of luxury bags, cushions and purses. “Everything I use, from the
thread to the trimmings, is reclaimed,” adds Karen, who uses items such
as lobster pot rubber rings, blanking plugs and car filters to create patterns
in her clifftop studio. tidelineprints.com

12 COA ST

c oast magazi ne.co.uk

North of England and south of Scotland
holiday specialists, Crabtree & Crabtree,
now offer immersive experiences as part
of their holidays, focusing on wildlife,
wellness, walking and art.
At Northumberland property Greengate
in Seahouses, for example, you can book
onto a seashore safari with picnic (sleeps
four, from £800 for seven nights). In the
Borders, wellness weekends can include
beach yoga, riverside meditation and
sound baths – at Bughtrig Cottage near
Berwick-upon-Tweed (sleeps four, from
£888 for three nights), the price includes
four sessions for four people.
crabtreeandcrabtree.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: TIDELINE PRINTS; CRABTREE & CRABTREE; WILD EAST DEVON.

PROUD PARENTS

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •

SNORKEL IN
SCOTLAND
The Scottish Wildlife Trust has
launched a new self-led Snorkel Trail
featuring accessible sites along the
stunning coast of the Moray Firth.
Elouise Cartner who worked on the
new trail says: “We’ve chosen several
beginner and slightly advanced
snorkelling zones, from an iconic
location in Portknockie overlooking
Bow Fiddle Rock, to Cullykhan Bay.”
Alongside helpful beach maps, the
trail leaflet highlights local facilities
and community-led marine science
opportunities. Download a leaflet at
scottishwildlifetrust.org.uk/snorkeltrails/.

BASKING SHARK ART
The fine art mosaicist Kimmy
McHarrie, who trained in
Ravenna, has created a
three-metre-long basking
shark mosaic for
Ronaldsway Airport on the
Isle of Man. Island-born,
Kimmy was sponsored by
Culture Vannin, the Manx
heritage foundation, to highlight the amazing marine life around the island such
as the huge but harmless (and endangered) basking sharks often spotted on
the west coast.
Alongside the Interdependence mosaic a film shows the making of the
artwork, plus footage of basking sharks in Manx waters. Find out more about
the project at kimmymcharrie.co.uk.

PHOTGRAPHS: LINCOLNSHIRE WILDLIFE TRUST;
SCOTTISH WILDLIFE TRUST; KIMMY MCHARRIE.

A CORONATION COAST FOR LINCOLNSHIRE
To celebrate the coronation of
King Charles III, Natural England
is creating a ‘King’s Series of
National Nature Reserves’ across
the country, with Lincolnshire
chosen to be the first host.
The newly designated
Coronation Coast National
Nature Reserve covers 12 square
miles centred around the existing protected area of Saltfleetby and the
Theddlethorpe Dunes where an array of habitats supports many breeding
and overwintering birds, coastal plants and insects.
The plan is to name five new King’s Series nature reserves every year
for five years, bringing the eventual total to 25. lincstrust.org.uk

BOOK
of the
MONTH

A Highland fling
A decade ago, Annie Worsley, a former
professor of environmental change, and
her husband Rob, decided to give up
their well-paid jobs and move to a croft
in Wester Ross in the Highlands, a place
they’d been holidaying in for 40 years
with their children.
In this evocative memoir, Annie records
their new life at Red River Croft in the
coastal parish of Gairloch, where views
from the garden stretch over 50km. The
seasons play a huge role in their new
life and in autumn she describes the
‘pale-gold days spliced by fickle and
feisty bouts of turbulent weather’.
Imaginatively described and rich in
historic detail, the book is a meditation
on the indomitable and nourishing
nature of the place she now calls home.
Windswept by Annie Worsley (£16.99,
William Collins)

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CO AST 1 3

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Cornwall

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Find your
special place

From contemporary coastal barn
conversions to charming thatched cottages,
we’ve hand-picked the very best properties
to bring you holiday memories to treasure

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SELF-CATERING
PROPERTIES ON THE
WEST SUSSEX COAST

Choose from a portfolio of over 600 luxury
self-catering holiday properties across the UK

01386 897 959

ruralretreats.co.uk
Do you have a property you would like to let
with Rural Retreats? If so, please get in touch with
one of our experienced Property Managers today.

newowners@ruralretreats.co.uk

We offer a wide range of mainly sea
front properties in this beautiful area
close to Chichester and Goodwood.
01243 672217 | lettings@baileys.uk.com | www.baileys.uk.com

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •

SHOP OF THE MONTH
Zennor Wild, Penzance

ippa Monies started growing flowers as a
hobby in 2016. “I live on a farm near Zennor
and trialled growing, taking photos and
putting them on Instagram,” she explains.
This led to commissions for wedding
flowers and five years later Pippa took
up a corner of her sister’s cafe in St Ives to sell her
arrangements. It was an invaluable experience that laid
the groundwork for her own business venture, Zennor
Wild shop and cafe, founded with her partner Harry,
which opened a year ago at Causeway Head.
At Zennor Wild the focus is on independent brands.
“I’ve always loved looking for new and unique items and
Lois who works for me has an amazing eye for finding
new pieces too,” reveals Pippa.

Products made in Cornwall include handmade pottery
by Catherine Mountford and prints from local artist Rosa
Design; the local YGN collective imports beautiful baskets
from Myanmar. Prices range from £5 to £70, with plenty
to buy at the £20 to £30 mark. Needless to say, there
are always buckets of British flower bouquets outside the
shop or you can order a bespoke arrangement.
The cafe works with Yallah Coffee, a local roastery
in Falmouth which sources coffee beans from family
focused co-operatives in Brazil and Nicaragua. To go
with your cuppa there are cakes from The Honesty Box
in Newlyn, toasted bagels hand-rolled in Porthleven by
Ced’s Bagels, and bowls of homemade granola topped
with fresh fruit, yoghurt and honey.
zennorwild.com

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 1 5

PHOTOGRAPHS LYRA & MOTH

Zennor Wild was set up by Pippa Monies and her partner, Harry, a Sennen Cove lifeguard, a year ago; Pippa’s passion is British grown flowers, which
she arranges into pretty, naturalistic bouquets; the in-house cafe serves simple dishes and local Yallah Coffee, with milk provided by Trink Dairy, a
family-run farm near St Ives where cows graze in fields overlooking the sea; candles, stationery, jewellery and baskets are staples at the shop.

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CO AST 1 7

coast WHAT’S ON

10 THINGS TO
DO IN OCTOBER
SU CARROLL rounds up the very best activities to do and
things to see close to the coastline this month

1

FREE FOR ALL

2
18 COA ST

c oast magazi ne.co.uk

3

1
The Food Matters programme will
cover topics such as regenerative
farming, eating for the planet and how
aquaculture may help solve our food
supply issues. The Festival is keen to
promote sustainability and reduce food
waste and on the Monday following the
festival, a few local chefs and volunteers
will produce a fabulous array of dishes
using all the leftover food that would
otherwise be thrown away. This is a free
lunch and open to anyone who wants to
attend. Go to dartmouthfoodfestival.com.
Since 1864 sailors heading for
LOCALS
safe harbour in Dartmouth have
LOVE
been cheered by the sight of
the Daymark, an 80ft tall Grade
II listed tower. The unusual octagonal
structure is visible from miles around and

helped mariners find the entrance to the
harbour which was considered difficult to
locate. It can be accessed by foot from
Froward Point or a short walk from the
National Trust’s Brownstone Car Park.
visitsouthdevon.co.uk

2

FERRY TALES

Take the ferry across the Solent for
the Isle of Wight Literary Festival – packed
with speakers on history, crime, nature,
fiction and topical issues. This year is
rich with journalists including veteran
journalist and former MP Chris Mullin,
BBC journalists past and present Justin
Webb, Martin Sixsmith and Rory CellanJones, and Sky’s Martin Brunt. Also
appearing are actress Maureen Lipman
and War Horse author Michael Morpurgo.
The main venue is the Grade II-listed
Northwood House (pictured).
Part of the festival, which runs
from October 5-8, is the Isle of Wight
Book Awards, now in its second year.
There are three categories with the
awards’ founder Hunter Davies once
again judging the non-fiction books;
Alan Titchmarsh, the festival’s vice
patron, resuming his role overseeing
the children’s books and this year they
are joined by fiction judge Georgina
Moore, who is a publicist for some of
the biggest names in literature and

2

PICTURE 1: ED OVENDEN; PICTURE 2: VISIT ISLE OF
WIGHT; PICTURE 3: VISIT WALES

Dartmouth Food Festival has
everything you’d want - an exciting mix of
local artisanal food and drink stalls, chef
demonstrations, wine seminars, product
tastings, book talks and lively food
debates. And best of all, most of it is free.
The beautiful Royal Avenue Gardens
are at the heart of the festival, and home
to street food vendors offering everything
from dim sum and bao buns to vegan
mac’n’cheese and gut healthy bowl food.
Over 80 additional stalls then spill out
down the picturesque Embankment and
up into the Old Market Square. Here you’ll
find an abundance of locally-produced,
high quality ingredients including awardwinning cheeses, hand-made preserves,
delicious breads, amazing wild game and
artisan coffee.
The festival, from October 20-22,
welcomes many special guests, from
internationally renowned chefs to
celebrated writers and critics. This
year the line-up includes Dartmouth
restaurateur and festival advocate Mitch
Tonks (pictured), Matt Tebbutt, Mark Hix
and Jane Baxter alongside local chefs.

coast WHAT’S ON

5
whose debut novel, The Garnett Girls, is
based on the island. Georgina is one
of the speakers at this year’s festival.
isleofwightliteraryfestival.co.uk
Poo. Your gut reaction may be
LOCALS
one of horror, but the National
LOVE
Poo Museum is dedicated to
something of interest to us all.
After all, where else could you discover
that wombats do square poos? Situated
in the Sandown Barrack Battery, you can
(ahem) follow the journey of poo from
ancient times, through the Romans to the
Victorians and to today. Seasonal
opening. Check details at poomuseum.
org.

3

PICTURE 4: VISIT WALES; PICTURE 5: VELARDE GALLERY;
PICTURE 6: JESSE DARLING

SMALL CITY BIG
SOUNDS

Expect great music, fascinating culture
and spectacular scenery at the Boia
Festival in St Davids, Britain’s smallest
city. This is only the second festival from
a community interest company and
promises an exciting contemporary music
line-up headlined by Gaz Coombes,
former lead singer of Supergrass,
and Katy J. Pearson whose latest release
Sound of the Morning was number one in
the UK independent album chart.

4

6

Set in the heart of the tiny city, gigs are
split between two venues just 200 metres
apart, allowing festival goers to easily
attend every gig. In addition, there’s a free
Music Trail with live music performances
throughout each day at three of the city’s
pubs.
The Boia Festival is in an area
steeped in history, set in the heart of the
Pembrokeshire Coast National Park with
local beach, Whitesands (pictured). From
October 27-29. boiafestival.co.uk
St David’s Cathedral bestows
LOCALS
city status on this tiny Welsh
LOVE
community. A church has stood
on the site since the 6th century
with the cathedral devoted to Dewi Sant
(Saint David) begun by a Norman Bishop
in 1181. An impressive Bishop’s Palace
followed in the 14th century. The cathedral
is a spiritual and architectural marvel with
its nave timber ceiling and ornate hanging
pendants. The shrine to St David was
restored and re-opened in 2012. Visit
stdavidscathedral.org.uk.

4

THERE BE DRAGONS

The Welsh Museums Festival offers
two whole weeks of special events and
activities for all ages at museums across

Wales, many of them free. The festival
includes half term activities with dragons
to find, riddles to solve, scintillating science
events, crafts to make and time travel
to delight younger visitors plus a special
Instagram photo competition just for teens.
There are also talks, lectures, crafts,
behind the scenes explorations, and
conservation sessions to intrigue and
delight history buffs of all ages. The
Federation of Museums and Art Galleries
of Wales has more than 100 members
from collections in small towns to the
mighty Museum of Cardiff (pictured).
This year’s Festival runs from October
22 until November 6. Find out more at
museums.wales.
A century ago Cardiff was the
LOCALS
biggest coal port in the world
LOVE
and with over 50 nationalities
settled in the busy Docks area,
was nicknamed Tiger Bay. Today it is very
different with new and unique architecture
and lots of fascinating places to see.
Book a walking tour online at Cardifftours.wales.

5

BIRTHDAY SHOW

The first exhibition in the newly
opened Velarde Gallery in Kingsbridge
on the South Hams coast celebrates
the 60th birthday of Gareth Edwards, an
elected RWA Academician, a member
of the Newlyn Society of Artists, and a
resident of St Ives’ prestigious Porthmeor
Studios in West Cornwall.
The artist describes his Four Seasons
exhibition, including Summer (pictured)
as ‘a metaphor, for a life lived, a life
entangled with nature, beauty, art and
atmosphere’.

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 1 9

coast WHAT’S ON

6

TURNER AT
EASTBOURNE

The striking exterior of the Towner
Eastbourne belies the fact that this has
been home to contemporary art for
100 years. As the centrepiece of the
centenary celebrations, the gallery will
host the Turner Prize 2023 - the world’s
leading prize for contemporary art.
An exhibition highlights the work of
this year’s four shortlisted contenders
– installation artist Jesse Darling is
nominated for two solo exhibitions;
Ghislaine Leung has been commended

7

20 COA ST

c oast magazi ne.co.uk

Slapton Sands (which is
actually more shingle than
sand) on the coast in South
Devon has a beautiful National
Nature Reserve, Slapton Ley - a
freshwater area separated from the coast
by a strip of land. Surrounded by
woodland, reed beds and marshes, it is a
Site of Special Scientific Interest. History
buffs can visit the Sherman Tank which
serves as a memorial to the 946
American servicemen on Operation Tiger
who were rehearsing for the D-Day
landings when their craft was sunk by
passing U-Boats. visitsouthdevon.co.uk
LOCALS
LOVE

8
for her work in turning the exhibition
structure on its head in Fountains in
Copenhagen; Rory Pilgrim interweaves
stories, poems, music and film, created
in collaboration with local communities in
London and Barbara Walker is nominated
for Burden of Proof, portraits about the
impact of the Windrush scandal.
The Turner Prize exhibition is at Towner
Eastbourne (townereastbourne.org.uk)
until April 14, 2024.
Beachy Head, with its
LOCALS
spectacular Seven Sisters cliffs,
LOVE
was a familiar sight for the pilots
of Bomber Command during
World War Two. It was the major
operational route out of the United
Kingdom for the airmen of the Royal Air
Force. Imagine yourself in the jump seat
as you visit the memorial that stands in
tribute to them close to the Beachy Head
pub. Details at iwm.org.uk.

7

ART AND
LANDSCAPES

The South Hams Arts Forum promises
its largest arts trail to date with 75 artists
putting on displays in 35 locations across
this beautiful part of South Devon. Being
in the heart of the South Hams most
venues are situated near stunning walks,
beaches and award-winning pubs giving
visitors the perfect opportunity not only to
visit artists’ studios and exhibitions, but to
have a great day out.
Many new makers will be among
those showing off their work, along with
established artists. This year visitors will
discover the most eclectic, diverse range
of artwork ever showcased at the annual
SHAF Arts Trail.
Opening days and times may vary
during the Arts Trail, which runs October
14-29. Free brochures are available at
Tourist Information Centres and many
local businesses or download it at SHAF.
org.uk.

8

MUSICAL NOTES

Have you ever wondered how a
piano works? After all, it’s actually a
percussion instrument with black and
white keys, 88 hammers hitting strings
and three pedals for two feet.
Internationally acclaimed classical
pianist Dr Robert Taub hopes to
demystify this centuries-old instrument in
Open Rehearsal – The Piano and How it
Goes. This is one of the opening events
in the concert series, Musica Viva, now in
its fifth year. Centred on the Levinsky Hall
at the University of Plymouth, it features
internationally acclaimed performers who
will inspire, educate, challenge and unite
audiences with concert performances,
open rehearsals and informal talks.
Robert, director of music at the Arts
Institute of Plymouth University and the
man behind Musica Viva, says his aim is
to let the music speak for itself.
After shining a light on the workings
of the piano he is joined by Dr Anthony
Caleshu and Dr Robert Vilain for The
Details in the Devil which will look at the
poems that inspired composers Ravel
and Liszt and the Schönberg work that
resulted in Thomas Mann writing Doktor
Faustus. They are a prelude to a solo
performance by Robert, Piano Passions.
The programme includes some of the
most challenging and expressive piano
music ever composed including work
by Beethoven, Ravel and Chopin. Visit
plymouth.ac.uk for details.
Next to the main university
LOCALS
building is Drake’s Place
LOVE
Gardens and Reservoir which

PICTURE 7: HANNAH WISDOM;
PICTURE 8: DOM MOORE

Inspired by 20th century abstract
artist Cy Twombly, Bohemian-Austrian
poet Rainer Maria Rilke and composer
Max Richter’s reworking of Vivaldi’s Four
Seasons, this collection a powerful series
of four large pieces of work, and eight
smaller works, accompanied by a sound
installation by artist Paul Lewin that will
lend an additional layer of atmosphere
to the audience’s experience of the
exhibition.
Gareth Edwards’ work is on display
from September 15-November 4.
velarde.co.uk
The best coastal walk near
LOCALS
Kingsbridge is undoubtedly
LOVE
Start Point on one of the most
exposed peninsulas on the
English coast. The headland is dominated
by the Start Point Lighthouse which has
guided vessels in passage along the
English Channel for over 150 years. The
views are breathtaking. There’s a visitor
centre and seasonal lighthouse tours –
the last one for 2023 is October 26.
startpointdevon.co.uk

coast WHAT’S ON

9

10
dates back to 1592 when Sir Francis
Drake oversaw the construction of a leat
to bring water from Dartmoor to the City.
Gardens dedicated to Drake were opened
in 1891. The area fell into disrepair but the
University and the Heritage Lottery Fund
and Big Lottery Fund supported a
restoration which opened in 2014. It
houses the reservoir and a wildlife haven
with a small café. On North Hill (plymouth.
ac.uk).

9

PICTURE 9: THE ESTATE OF BARBARA JONES; PICTURE 10: DUNCAN
MCGLYNN; COMING SOON: DARTMOUTH STEAM RAILWAY

PIECES OF EIGHT

The Parallel Lives exhibition looks
at the careers and experiences of eight
women artists, all born within 20 years of
each other and whose lives spanned the
20th Century: Wilhelmina Barns-Graham,
Prunella Clough, Ithell Colquhoun, Evelyn
Dunbar, Gertrude Hermes, Barbara
Jones, Enid Marx and Monica Poole.
Their work covers a range of media:
sculpture, painting, printmaking, textile
design and book illustration. Stylistically
diverse, they drew selectively on art
movements with some at the forefront of
developments within their artistic fields
including neo-romanticism, realism,
surrealism, folk art and abstraction.
What binds them together is an
independent outlook and a willingness
to pursue a singular artistic vision often

in defiance of prevailing fashions and
influences.
The exhibition at St Barbe Museum
and Art Gallery in Lymington, Hampshire,
follows their successes while considering
the challenges they had to address,
noting also the moments when their
lives and experiences overlapped or
corresponded. Until January 13. Details
at stbarbe-museum.org.uk.
The pretty Georgian market
LOCALS
town of Lymington on the edge
LOVE
of the New Forest has two
marinas and a thriving sailing
community but you can have fun in the
water too at one of the oldest sea water
baths in the country. First opened in
1833, the Grade II-listed lido has
inflatables and is very family friendly. To
check opening times go to
lymingtonseawaterbaths.org.uk.

10

BLACK LOOKS

In 1926 Coco Chanel designed
a simple, short black dress. America’s
Vogue magazine described the radically
modern design as ‘the frock that all
the world will wear.’ In the intervening
decades the Little Black Dress has
become a wardrobe staple that provided
a blank canvas for future generations to
reflect broader political and cultural shifts,

challenge social norms around race,
gender and sexuality and reflect evolving
ideals of beauty and identity.
This new exhibition at the National
Museum of Scotland takes a closer look
at its influence and explores how the
colour black is used in fashion with over
60 items from renowned designers such
as Chanel, Dior and Jean Muir, together
with pieces from current designers,
including Gareth Pugh, Simone Rocha,
Comme des Garçons and groundbreaking Black British designers like Joe
Casely-Hayford and Maximilian.
Beyond the Little Black Dress is at the
National Museum of Scotland (nms.ac.uk)
until October 29.
The Surgeons’ Hall Museums
LOCALS
are owned by The Royal
LOVE
College of Surgeons of
Edinburgh and offer a
fascinating insight into pathology, surgery
and dentistry. The collections date back
to 1699. In the 1800s, the original
museum expanded to include the
remarkable collections of surgeon and
anatomists, Sir Charles Bell and John
Barclay. Originally developed as a
teaching museum for students of
medicine, the collections have been open
to the public since 1832. For details go to
museum.rcsed.uk.

COMING SOON
Tickets for the spectacular
Christmas Train of Lights
on the Dartmouth Steam
Railway in Devon sell out
early, so start planning
now. You depart from
Paignton, travelling in
style on a steam train
with vintage carriages
decorated with thousands
of lights, inside and out.

After a short journey, the
show starts at Churston
Station as you travel
towards Kingswear.
Emerge from the 450-metre
Greenway tunnel into the
enchanted forest which
will be transformed by a
multitude of lights.
The stunning show
ends as you leave the

forest to be greeted by
the twinkling lights of
Dartmouth reflected on
the River Dart. You can
alight at Kingswear to
take photographs from the
platform before returning.
Multiple services
between November 24 and
December 30. Book online
at dartmouthrailriver.co.uk.

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Your Local Holiday Home Specialist
Beach walks, stunning sunsets, native oysters, independent shops, local art, renowned
restaurants and a home from home – what’s not to love!

E N Q U I R I E S @ W H I T S TA B L E H O L I D AY H O M E S . C O . U K
VISIT WEBSITE

W H I T S TA B L E H O L I D AY H O M E S . C O . U K

|

01227 200602

coast COLUMNIST

And there’s another thing...
This month our columnist MARTIN DOREY is thinking
about some heavenly swims in the tipping rain…

PHOTOGRAPH MATIN DOREY

The pool at New Cumnock re-opened in
2017 after a revamp and is well loved.

arlier this year I left Cornwall
and schlepped to Scotland to
work on updates for one of
my books. As part of this trip I
made it my business to swim
in Scotland’s three heated
outdoor pools; at New Cumnock,
Stonehaven and Gourock. On the way I
took another detour into the Peak District
to swim at Hathersage’s delightful lido.
Going to Hathersage was a proper
English day out. The pool feels timeless,
like it has been there forever (it was built
in the 1930s). Its bandstand adds an air
of genteel expectation, as if the brass
section could count time for me as I
swam.
By contrast, the pool at New
Cumnock, a small town in Dumfries and
Galloway, is altogether newer and with
an overexcited feel about it. It re-opened
in 2017 after a revamp and is well loved.

We turned up for a very busy session with
little hope of swimming lengths. The water
temperature and coloured changing room
doors made it a jolly potter-in-the-drizzle
kind of a session.
In Stonehaven we swam lengths of
the 50m pool accompanied by three
other swimmers and six lifeguards. I have
never felt safer and loved swimming
in the warm, silky salt water while the
rain soaked everything else – lifeguards
included. The lengths just slipped by.
The final dip, at Gourock near Glasgow,
beat them all. The heated saltwater pool
is 33m long and enjoys amazing views
over the Firth of Clyde and the Trossachs
beyond. Swimming in it, on a windy day
with intermittent showers, was glorious.
So why tell you all this? Well, as this
magazine plops onto your doormat,
October will be approaching with all the
gusto of a summer squall.

Sea temperatures might still be warm
in September, but by October they will
be dropping. Swims at home in Bude’s
heavenly 90m (unheated) tidal pool will
become less appealing with each southwesterly blow. But go we must, even if it
means wearing neoprene, because these
places are vital to our community, and we
must support them.
Inland lidos like Hathersage are just as
important for landlocked communities
as they are for coastal towns where rips
and dangerous surf make open water
bathing unsafe for much of the year. They
are a lifeline, a place to meet, to learn, to
compete and to have fun.
So here’s to the coming of winter and
those cool autumn days, when the wind
whips across the Atlantic and the hardy
dippers strip to the sound of crashing
surf with a stoic smile and a quick chat.
Simple things that can make your day.

Martin Dorey is a writer, campervan traveller, surfer and environmentalist. He lives in Bude in North Cornwall
with his partner, Dr Seaweed, and a collection of bikes and boards.

FIND HIM ON

@campervanliving

@martindorey Don’t look for him on Tik Tok

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CO AST 2 3

coast COMPETITION

WIN A TWO-NIGHT
LUXURY BREAK IN CORNWALL
Don’t miss Coast’s competitions page every month
for chances to win fabulous prizes

PHOTOGRAPHY: THE GANNET

he Gannet is situated in the pretty village
of Carbis Bay, a mile from the beautiful
harbour town of St Ives in Cornwall, and
nearby award-winning Blue Flag Carbis
Bay Beach.
Inside you’ll find boutique bedrooms
with a comfy restaurant and bar area. Designed to
be a relaxing, stylish place to enjoy good food and a
welcoming atmosphere, The Gannet has quirky interiors
with all the style and finesse of a boutique hotel, while
also offering a warm and friendly place to pop in for a
catch-up or a bite to eat.
A good night’s sleep is what you can look forward to
at the Gannet. Each room has its own unique identity
and feel, with bold décor and signature interiors.
Rooms vary from ‘Cosy’, ‘Quirky’, ‘Family’ or the
‘Spot the Gannet’ rooms with stunning sea views.
With unusual prints and cool coastal hues, the rooms
are designed to give you a unique Gannet experience,
where Sleepy Gannets can relax and enjoy a peaceful
night’s sleep after a busy day exploring Cornwall.
The nearby Carbis Bay Estate’s C Bay Spa is
available for all Gannet guests and offers complimentary
entry for a morning or afternoon to all Gannet guests
between the months of October to May.
Scrumptious dishes make up the menu at The
Gannet, which features classic British recipes with a
modern twist. The Gannet’s hearty menu has been
created by the Rosette winning chef at the Carbis
Bay Estate. Each dish developed to fit with its homecooking style menu, which is packed full of locally
sourced ingredients from the finest Cornish producers.
We’ve teamed up with The Gannet to offer one lucky
Coast reader the chance to experience a stay there
by winning this month’s special competition prize.
gannetstives.co.uk

YOUR PRIZE
Two nights B&B for two people
at The Gannet, plus use of the
pool and facilities at nearby
Carbis Bay Hotel.
HOW TO ENTER
Please visit coastmagazine.
co.uk/win and answer this
question by October 6, 2023:
Which world famous
sculptor has a museum
dedicated to their work in
St Ives?
A: Henry Moore
B: Barbara Hepworth
C: John Flaxman

KELSEY T&Cs: Prize is non-refundable and no cash alternative is available. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Entry is free. Open to residents of the UK aged
over 18. Employees of Kelsey Media and the competition provider and their family members are not eligible to win. Only one entry permitted per household; no bulk entries will be
accepted. The first correct entry drawn after the closing date will win. Our winner will be notified within 28 days. If our winner fails to respond after three attempts at contact, a new winner
will be drawn. The prize is not transferable. If any prize or product is lost or damaged during the course of delivery to the recipient, Kelsey Media will provide reasonable assistance in
seeking to resolve the problem. However, it will not always be possible to obtain replacements for lost or damaged goods and, in that event, no financial compensation would be payable
by Kelsey Media or its affiliates. We reserve the right to cancel the competition if circumstances change which are beyond our control. Coast is a Kelsey Media brand. Here at Kelsey
Media we take your privacy seriously and will only use your personal information to provide the products and services you have requested from us. We will only contact you with news
and special offers via the preferences you have indicated. We will never share your information with any third party without your consent. You can view our full Privacy Policy at shop.
kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy
THE GANNET T&Cs: No cash alternative. Over 18s only. Subject to availability. Not to be taken over bank holidays. Valid for six months. Excludes Christmas and New Year, school and
public bank holidays. Subject to availability at time of booking.

24 COA ST

c oast magazi ne.co.uk

Explore North Norfolk –

An area of outstanding natural beauty
Situated in the village of Thornham in the beautiful North Norfolk area famous for its salt marshes and nature reserves, The Old
Maltings provides the perfect base for you, your family and your four legged friends A well-equipped family 3 bedroom cottage sleeps
5/6 people, close to beaches, ideal for walks, bird watching, exploring or simply unwinding. Just a short drive away is Holkham and
Sandringham Estate. Close by are uncrowded sandy beaches and Thornham beach can be reached by a lovely walk beside the salt
marshes. Well behaved dogs welcome

Visit www.theoldmaltings-thornham.co.uk now to find out more information

Creekside
Cottages
®

Falmouth, Cornwall
Offering a fine collection of
individual waterside, rural and
village self-catering holiday
cottages on the south coast of
Cornwall.

01326 375972
martin@creeksidecottages.co.uk
www.creeksidecottages.co.uk

coast DISCOVERY

26 COA ST

c oast magazi ne.co.uk

coast DISCOVERY

MEET THE CANINE
SUPERHEROES

PHOTOGRAPHY: MEGAN WILLIAMS; MARTIN ELLARD

They are truly true coastal companions…
CHRISSY HARRIS finds out about the dogs that
love to work, rest and play by the water
egular meals, plenty of walks, the
occasional biscuit – and rescuing nine
people from drowning. Yes, Whizz the
Newfoundland led an extraordinary
dog’s life. The gentle giant was one of
only a handful of dogs in the UK trained
to help save people in difficulty in the water.
Owner David Pugh happily acknowledges that
Whizz has been his greatest success story. He set
up Newfound Friends in 1989 to showcase the work
Newfoundlands can do through demonstrations of their
skills in the water, all while raising money for charity.
So far, Whizz has been the only Newfound Friend
to have carried out life-saving work outside of these
display sessions.
The 12-stone gentle giant spent years patrolling the
Bristol Channel and the River Severn with the Royal
Navy, the Severn Area Rescue Association and the
Marine Volunteer Service.
In 2008, Whizz pulled two young girls to safety who
had got into difficulty in their dinghy off Oxwich beach,
South Wales. In 2011, he pulled a swimmer having an
asthma attack to a waiting lifeboat.
Trained lifeguard David has recently written a book
about his exceptional rescue dog, who passed away
aged 12 in 2016 and was awarded a posthumous
PDSA Order of Merit – known as the animals’ OBE –
for outstanding devotion to duty.
Today, Whizz’s legacy lives on through David’s
other dogs and the charity work Newfound Friends
continues to do to raise awareness of water safety.
“I love these dogs, they’re my life,” says David, who
lives near Bristol but travels all over the country with
his team, including Tizz and Ted. “If you train the dogs
to rescue people, then you have to have an outlet

LEFT Whizz with
owner David Pugh.
ABOVE Whizz the
wonder dog in
action in South
Wales.

for them,” says David. “We do charity events where
people can be sponsored to be rescued by the dogs.
The other thing we do is maritime events. We show all
the various ways of rescuing people.”
David says he never puts his dogs in a situation he
wouldn’t be happy to be in himself and always makes
sure he’s confident his highly trained team can cope
with the task in hand.
“People just love seeing these dogs in their natural
environment,” says David, who has led displays
up and down the coast, including Swansea and
Southampton, and at Dartmouth Regatta in Devon.
“I mean, if you know anything about Newfoundland
dogs, you’ll know that they love the water and it’s
where they want to be.
“People come up to me afterwards and they’re
amazed at the strength of the dogs and what they can
do. A lot of it is natural instinct.
“They are the dogs for the coast, they always have
been.”
• Whizz: Zero to Hero is available on Amazon. See
newfoundfriends.co.uk.

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coast DISCOVERY

PHOTOGRAPHY: NATIONAL TRUST/RICHARD SCOTT

A BRUSH WITH SWEEP
Sweep the three-year-old border collie has just about
found his sea legs. The working sheepdog commutes
by ferry to round up his flock on the remote Orford
Ness nature reserve, off the coast of Suffolk.
When he first started the job back in 2021,
Sweep was a slightly reluctant passenger. Now, the
conscientious canine looks forward to catching the
ferry Octavia because he knows a full day’s work
awaits.
“During his first month he had to be carried on and
off the boat,” says Sweep’s colleague, National Trust
shepherd Andrew Capell. “Now he jumps in and out

ABOVE
CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Sweep seen at
work, rest and
play on Orford
Ness.

pretty well.” Sweep is the only dog allowed on Orford
Ness because of the fragility of the habitat. The tenmile shingle spit - the longest of its kind in Europe - is
home to a wide variety of plant life and wildlife, such
as brown hare, Chinese water deer, and lapwings,
marsh harriers and barn owls.
The Ness has flocks of rare breed sheep, including
Whitefaced Woodland and Manx Loaghtan, which
help to maintain the unique landscape through
grazing.
Sweep and Andrew work hard to care for these
important residents.
“Sweep is still learning the ropes but he’s getting

‘During his first month he had to be carried on and
off the boat. Now he jumps in and out pretty well’
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c oast magazi ne.co.uk

coast DISCOVERY

Enjoy a dog
walk at Saunton
Sands in Devon.

Treat your pet to a taste of life beside the
seaside with one of these wonderful walkies:
Saunton Sands in Devon is (a) dogfriendly all year round and (b) beautiful.
The three-mile stretch of golden sands is
ideal for running around and chasing a ball (the
dog can do that too).
The Balmacara Estate overlooks Skye
on the western coast of Scotland and
has a great reputation with dog owners.
It was recently named most dog-friendly
National Trust for Scotland property. There are
miles of open countryside, coastline and
woodland to explore, with paths leading from
Kyle of Lochalsh and Loch Achaidh na h-Inich
to Balmacara Square.
Pink Bay is one of the most westerly
beaches in Porthcawl, Wales. It’s named
after its eye-catching pink stones and
pebbles. The beach is a short walk from the
car park at Rest Bay.
Landing in Yorkshire. It’s an
exhilarating trek between Flamborough
Head to North Landing. The route takes
you and your dog to the peaceful cove beach
at North Landing, a great place for swimming.
Weybourne to Sheringham in Norfolk
is a clifftop walk that can end with a pint
in the dog-friendly Two Lifeboats pub, if
you time it right.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: VISIT DEVON

there,’ says Andrew, the shepherd at Orford Ness for
13 years. “He ignores the birds and other wildlife and
when he’s in the field, he’s focussed on the sheep.”
Sweep has big pawprints to fill. When Kite,
Sweep’s long-standing predecessor, died at the
end of 2020, the pressure was on to find a suitable
replacement.
Sweep arrived in 2021 from his first home and
trainer in the Brecon Beacons. It took him a while to
adapt to his new coastal surroundings – and English
accents.
After three years in the job, however, Sweep is
very much part of the team and popular with visitors
during the Orford Ness open season between April
and October. When he’s not on duty, Sweep has his
own quiet corner of the office to rest in while he waits
for the ferry.
“Some days, he doesn’t want to go home,” adds
Andrew. “He’s a true working dog.”
• See nationaltrust.org.uk.

coast DISCOVERY

PHOTOGRAPHY: VIKKI BELL

ALL EYES ON ALAN
Strolling along Morecambe promenade on a fresh
autumn day certainly lifts the spirits.
This simple pleasure is something Kevin Crompton
would have found challenging just a few months ago
- before a large German Shepherd called Alan came
into his life.
Kevin is visually impaired after developing a condition
called retinitis pigmentosa when he was a teenager.
The term refers to a group of rare eye diseases that
affect the retina (the light-sensitive layer of tissue in the
back of the eye).
The condition has left Kevin with ‘tunnel vision’.
Going out and about on his own is difficult and Kevin
felt he was missing out on the things that make living in
a seaside town special.
Then, last year, he got the call from the Guide Dogs
for the Blind Association to say he’d been matched
with a four-legged friend.
“They brought Alan out to meet me and carried out
an assessment,” says Kevin, adding that the process
is about putting ‘trust in the harness’ and handing
over control to the dog. “It’s the hardest thing anybody

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ABOVE
CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Guide dog Alan
loves the coast.

‘He loves the beach and
playing with his toys. We
try and give him as much
downtime as possible so
that he can enjoy himself.
He’s got such a lovely
temperament and
wherever we go people
fall in love with him’

coast DISCOVERY

will do,” he says. “But they thought Alan and I were a
good match.”
Alan and Kevin are now a dream team and love
going for long walks together along the coast.
The pair are regular fixtures in the Beach Café on
Morecambe’s seafront, where the staff and customers
are always happy to see them.
“They all say ‘oh, he’s got such a kind face’,” says
Kevin, (assuming they’re talking about Alan, of course).
“He really loves seaside life,” Kevin adds. “He loves the
beach and playing with his toys. We try and give him
as much downtime as possible so that he can enjoy
himself. He’s just got such a lovely temperament and
wherever we go, people fall in love with him.”
Having Alan by his side means that Kevin is
confident about doing all the things most of us take for
granted.
“Alan takes away so much stress and pressure,”
says Kevin. “Walking through crowds, I know that Alan
has seen all of the people and is working out the best
route.
“He allows me to go out and about and do things at
a normal pace of life, just like everyone else.”
• See guidedogs.org.uk

How much is too much? Eating and
swallowing sand can cause stomach problems
for your dog because it can cause a blockage.
Choose toys that pick up less sand – a Frisbee
rather than a ball, for example.
Salty sea dogs: If your dog’s been in for a
dip, give them a rinse with fresh water when
you get home to prevent them licking any salt
from their fur.
Stay put: Don’t go after your dog if they go
into the water or get stuck in mud. Move to a
place they can get to safely and call them –
they’ll probably get out by themselves. If you’re
worried about your dog, call 999 or 112 and
ask for the coastguard.

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coast DISCOVERY

PHOTOGRAPHY: SCOTT MURRAY/RNLI

GEM OF A MASCOT
When the alarm signals a shout at the RNLI’s
Montrose Lifeboat Station in Angus, the crew leaps
into action.
In the corner of the room, however, Gem barely
stirs from her nap. The seven-year-old collie-Staffycross is well used to this routine, having been based
here in Scotland at one of the oldest stations in the
British Isles since she was a puppy.
Gem’s owner is full-time RNLI coxswain mechanic
Scott Murray, who brings his faithful friend to work
with him every day.
“She shadows me,” says Scott. “Wherever I go,
she’s right there behind us.”
It turns out there are exceptions. Despite being
something of a RNLI mascot, Gem prefers more of a
dry land role.
“She’s very nervous of the sea and won’t swim,
even though I’ve tried to get her to go in plenty of
times but she comes running back,” says Scott,
explaining that Gem isn’t keen on boats, either. “If we

ABOVE LEFT &
RIGHT Gem the
lifeboat station
mascot.

get a shout, my mum lives right beside the station,
so she’ll come and pick her up and look after her
until we get back.”
Gem is always pleased to return to her post,
standing at the station door and looking out at
everyone going by.
She’s also established a reputation as the station
vacuum cleaner, happily taking care of any biscuit
crumbs that might be lying around.
Most importantly, her fun-loving nature means
Gem is a huge hit with local visitors – especially the
younger ones.
“She loves it when kids visit,” says Scott. “She just
wants to be with them all the time.
“She’s good as gold really.”
Scott and five other members of the RNLI
Montrose crew were recently awarded a Marine
Meritorious Service Medal in recognition of their rapid
response, professionalism and skill in saving lives
during Storm Arwen in November 2021.
• See rnli.org.

‘She’s nervous of the sea and won’t swim, even though I’ve tried
to get her to go in plenty of times but she comes running back’
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Morecambe Bay mudflats at the
rugged coastal landscape near
Jenny Brown’s Point in the Arnside
and Silverdale AONB.

BAY OF PLENTY…

PHOTOGRAPHY: DIANA JARVIS

LOUISE BRYNING discovers why the natural wonders of
Morecambe have attracted the next Eden Project
eauty Surrounds, Health
Abounds” has been
Morecambe’s motto for
decades and one to
which the Eden Project
has added another
phrase, “Nature Astounds.”
Earlier this year, it was announced
that Eden Project Morecambe would
become reality with the news it had
been awarded £50million by the
Government’s Levelling Up Fund.
But what had attracted those behind
the Eden Project in Cornwall to look
at a North West town whose most
famous claim to fame was lending its

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name to one of the nation’s best loved
comedians, Eric Morecambe?
“Our mission is about connecting
people with nature and Morecambe is a
great place to do that,” says Si Bellamy,
Eden Project Morecambe’s chief
activation officer. “Our site is literally
right on the coast looking out over the
bay and towards the Lake District.”
Morecambe Bay is the largest
intertidal area in the UK and its
massive expanse of mudflats attracts
more than 250,000 birds every year.
“Morecambe is made by the moon,
because of the tidal systems, and the
natural rhythms of life of the bay, such

A common blue butterfly at
Warton Crag in the Arnside
and Silverdale AONB.

Beth Fox, visitor experience
manager at Leighton Moss
RSPB Reserve.

coast DISCOVERY
View of Morecambe Bay
with the hills of the Lake
District in the distance.

A swan with cygnets
and a heron among the
reeds at Leighton Moss
RSPB Reserve.

as the migratory patterns of birds,
inspire the project,” adds Si.
Eden Project Morecambe, which
is expected to open in 2026, aims to
reflect nature above and below the bay
with plants, art exhibitions and theatrical
experiences. It will be more immersive
than its Cornish cousin and make
greater use of digital media.
While Morecambe awaits
construction starting next year, the
bird, plant and wildlife which attracted
the Eden Project to the area in the
first place continues to flourish. The
bay’s mudflats are a particular magnet
for wading birds such as curlews and
oystercatchers.
“Morecambe Bay’s intertidal mud flats
are important as waders are dependent
on them in winter months,” explains
Beth Fox, the visitor experience manager
at Leighton Moss RSPB reserve which
marks its 60th anniversary next year and
is a Site of Special Scientific Interest.
Just a few miles from Morecambe is
the biggest reed bed in the north west,
a scarce habitat which attracts special
species such as the bittern with its
distinctive boom.
In autumn months, bearded tits fly
into Leighton Moss and spectacular
starling murmurations amaze visitors.
Otters and deer can also be spotted

at the reserve so it’s little wonder that
Leighton Moss has twice featured on
the BBC’s Autumnwatch.
Leighton Moss is a highlight of
the Arnside and Silverdale Area Of
Outstanding Natural Beauty which has
many interesting features of its own
vying for attention. It has an unusually
high number of nature reserves for such
a relatively small area, more than half of
which is under water.
“The area also benefits from a lot of
managed land which is really significant
in terms of biodiversity and has had
a big impact over the past 50 years,”
says Caroline Howard, communications
and funding officer.
Limestone pavements are abundant
in this AONB and form mosaic habitats
which also include grassland and
ancient woodland fairly well protected in
terms of climate.
Gait Barrows National Nature
Reserve at the heart of the AONB
is one of Britain’s most important
limestone landscapes while Arnside
Knott, owned and managed by the
National Trust, is a marvellous place to
see butterflies including rarities like the
high brown fritillary. In total, the AONB
is home to 34 species of butterflies.
Warton Crag, the AONB’s landmark
site, attracts nationally

Curlew – Morecambe Bay boasts
one of the country’s biggest
concentrations of Europe’s largest
wading bird with its distinctive
long, curved down bill.
Bittern – Leighton Moss with its
impressive reed bed is the place
to try and spot this secretive
thick-set heron although the
male’s giveaway is its boom,
heard in spring.
Oystercatcher – these stocky
birds can be seen on almost all
UK coasts but in winter, large
numbers particularly flock to
Morecambe Bay.
Bearded tit – comedian and
artist, Jim Moir, visited Leighton
Moss to glimpse this
moustachioed bird for his
television series, Painting Birds
with Jim and Nancy.
Redshank – these birds, with
their distinctive orange-red legs,
hunt by probing their bills into soil
and mud, making Morecambe
Bay their ideal feeding place.

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coast DISCOVERY

The River Kent can be seen in the
distance from Arnside Knott in the
Arnside and Silverdale AONB.

An early purple orchid at
Warton Crag in the Arnside
and Silverdale AONB.

xx

rows
A large red damselfly at Gait Bar
Nature Reserve in the Arnside and
Silverdale AONB.

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The statue of Eric Morecambe
on Morecambe Promenade.

important butterflies and moths while
peregrine falcons regularly nest in the
main quarry. Arnside and Silverdale can
also boast 14 species of orchids, a high
proportion for an AONB, and includes
the Lancaster Whitebeam, found
nowhere else in the world other than
around Morecambe Bay.
Arnside and Silverdale AONB has
many vantage points from which
perhaps Morecambe Bay’s most
spectacular feature can be viewed –
its famous sunsets. Filling the wide
expanse of sky with an impressive
spectrum, the sunsets can also be
enjoyed from the Promenade in
Morecambe itself.
Along the Promenade and Stone
Jetty is the nature-inspired Tern Project,
a series of public art sculptures with
the popular Eric Morecambe statue as
its centrepiece. Eric is depicted with
binoculars around his neck reflecting
his lifelong love of birdwatching. Indeed,
one of the hides at Leighton Moss is
named after him.
Helping to ensure that Morecambe
Bay’s attractions are kept special is
an adapted version of the Coastal

coast DISCOVERY
An avocet wading through the water,
spotted from the Eric Morecambe Hide
at Leighton Moss RSPB Reserve.

A flock of black tailed
godwits at Leighton Moss
RSPB Reserve.

Code, promoted by Morecambe Bay
Partnership, a charity dedicated to
connecting people with the nature,
heritage and culture of the bay.
One of MBP’s new developments
for 2023 is Ways Around The Bay, a
website featuring new and less well
known existing routes and itineraries for
walkers and cyclists as well as places
where the less able can use offroad and
on road mobility scooters.
“Expanding access to Morecambe
Bay for people with different needs is
a developing area of our work,” says
MBP’s chief executive officer, Sarah
Mason. This year, MBP are launching a
hub at Grange Railway Station where
people can hire mobility scooters,
trampers and e-bikes.
Also new for 2023 is Bay Lines, a

series of interactive events culminating
with a jamboree on Morecambe
Promenade, and also MBP’s first cross
bay walk.
Sarah adds: “For me, Morecambe
Bay is all about the birds, it’s a feeding
station for them. We want to make sure
that everyone who lives in and visits
Morecambe realises how special it is for
the birds and they keep it that way so
that birds continue to thrive here and
we get even more.”
And with the prospect of Eden
Project Morecambe on the horizon, it
won’t be just birds who’ll be flocking
to a bay which brings sunshine into so
many people’s lives.
• For information on all the area’s
attractions, visit exploremorecambebay.
org.uk

The Stone Jetty in Morecambe at dusk,
featuring Tern Project sculptures.

Morecambe Bay shrimps
– these fishy delicacies, much
smaller than a prawn, should be
boiled, peeled and cooked in
butter and spices, and were much
favoured by the late Queen
Elizabeth II. The Hairy Bikers also
enjoyed them on one of their trips.
Dave Myers hails from Barrow, on
Morecambe Bay.
Cross Bay Walks – held regularly
during the summer, these walks
are led by a King’s Guide to the
Sands who has specialist
knowledge of the ever changing
flats and channels. They are a
unique way to soak up the bay’s
scenery and wildlife.
Midland Hotel – celebrating its
90th anniversary this year, the
Midland Hotel on Morecambe
Promenade is recognised as one
of the country’s finest examples of
Art Deco architecture and design.
Eric Gill and Eric Ravilious left their
artistic mark on the building
designed by Oliver Hill.

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coast DISCOVERY

or centuries the English were more
focused on drinking wine than
producing it but since the dawn of
the 21st century, that has changed.
Historically England and Wales’
climate was considered too cold to
make good quality wine, however, climate
change is having a huge impact on the
quality and styles of wine that we can
now produce.
Researchers have predicted that the
exceptional vintage experienced in the
UK in 2018 will soon be the norm with
significant areas of the country projected
to become a further 1.4°C warmer during
the growing season by 2040.
According to Wine GB’s latest industry
report, there are now 897 vineyards in
the UK (although that number is likely to
have risen to over 900 since the report
was published in September 2022) and

plantings are up 70 per cent since 2017
– there is now four times as much land
under vine than there was in 2000.
A key factor in the shape of the
industry, says Wine GB CEO Simon
Thorpe, is the “stratospheric rise in the
importance of wine tourism’ and with
a recent VisitBritain survey suggesting
42 per cent of inbound tourists would
enjoy a visit to a winery, the race is on to
create the best visitor experience. With
a unique microclimate and spectacular
sea views, England’s coastal vineyards
already have an advantage. Here’s my
delightful dozen of coastal vineyards for
you to try:

1

Adgestone Vineyard, Isle of
Wight
The turquoise waters surrounding
the Isle of Wight were the inspiration

for Adgestone Vineyard’s remarkably
unique selling point – a blue-coloured
sparkling wine. But that’s not the
only quirky offering owners Russ and
Philippa Broughton have created on
their ten-acre vineyard on the east
coast of the island – you’ll find pigs
and pygmy goats on site to keep
the kiddies entertained and tours,
starting at £10, include a visit to the
subterranean cellar. Visit between June
and September and you’ll also get to
experience live acoustic music as you
tuck into a sharing platter and cool
glass of English wine on the terrace
while admiring uninterrupted sea views.
adgestonevineyard.co.uk
Bottle to buy: It has to be Adgestone’s
signature Something Blue, the only bluecoloured sparkling wine made in
the UK, £39.

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coast DISCOVERY

ABOVE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Cobble Hill’s delicious wines can be enjoyed alongside grazing boards and picturesque views; Crouch Ridge has
evolved from a dairy farm to a vineyard and once sold oysters from the nearby beds; Tours at La Mare include a tasting of wines, spirits and liquor, as well
as butter, fudge and chocolate made on site.

PHOTGRAPHS: NORFOLKING AROUND; CROUCH RIDGE; VISIT JERSEY;
IAN SARGANT; LITTLE WADDON VINEYARD; POLGOON

2

Cobble Hill Vineyard, Docking,
Norfolk
The Perowne family have successfully
farmed the land in north Norfolk for many
generations. Situated on the outskirts
of Burnham Market, their vineyard was
planted in 2016 after Robert Perowne
realised a south facing chalky soiled slope
on the farm was perfect for growing Pinot
Noir, Bacchus and Chardonnay vines.
Their delicious wines can be enjoyed
alongside grazing boards and picturesque
views, while their tours, £20, are adapted
to suit each visitor. cobblehillnorfolk.com
Bottle to buy: Their award-winning
Sparkling Rosè 2019, £30, made from
100 per cent Pinot Noir grapes, has
vibrant bubbles with robust red fruit
flavours.

3

Crouch Ridge Estate, Althorne,
Essex
With Essex’s coastline among some of
the sunniest in England, it’s no surprise
the county’s winemaking credentials have
skyrocketed in recent years.
Fifth generation farmers Ross and

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Samantha Lonergan’s love of wine and
the beautiful Crouch Valley Region inspired
them to plant a vineyard at their family
farm in the scenic village of Althorne, near
Chelmsford, in 2010.
Crouch Ridge offers a variety of tours
and tastings between May and October,
with prices ranging from £25 to £45 per
person. crouchridge.com
Bottle to buy: With temperatures hotter
than elsewhere in the UK, if any county
is going to make a decent red, it’s Essex.
Crouch Ridge’s 2020 Pinot Noir, £27,
conjures nostalgic memories of sour
cherry sweets.

4

Glyndwr Vineyard, Crowbridge,
South Wales
The welsh coastline is a mere ten minutes’
drive away from Glyndwr, the oldest
vineyard in Wales. Established in 1979, it
pioneered the revival of viticulture in Wales
and has a strong focus on nature and
organic treatment of its vines.
Tours, from £38, include a meet with
the llamas, a two-course meal of local
dishes, such as Welsh leek and Caerphilly

cheese quiche coupled with a tasting of
their still and sparkling wines. They also
make an apple brandy and award-winning
vermouth in conjunction with Gower Gin,
based in Port Eynon. glyndwrvineyard.
co.uk.co.uk
Bottle to buy: The Glyndwr Red, £18,
produced from early ripening mature
Rondo grapes was the first wine ever
to win double gold at the South West
Vineyards Association Awards.

5

La Mare Wine Estate, St Mary’s,
Jersey
Less than 1km’s walk from Jersey’s
stunning north coast and set adjacent
to the island’s National Park, La Mare is
the only vineyard in Jersey, and produces
20,000 bottles of wine each year from the
estate’s nine acres of vines.
Thanks to its location, 14 miles off the
coast of France, Jersey has a mild climate
perfect for making wine but the estate
also produces cider, an apple brandy
and cream liquor from apples grown in its
11 acres of orchards, as well as a vodka
using Jersey Royal potatoes.

coast DISCOVERY

ABOVE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Laurel Vineyard is one of eight on the Yorkshire Wine Trail; Polgoon’s 14,000 vines spread across 14 acres; Polgoon’s
Regent grapes growing in the Cornwall sunshine; Polgoon’s Col Fondo is a wild ferment sparkling made from grapes crushed by foot.

Tours, from £15.95, take in the
vineyards, which surround an 18th century
granite farmhouse, winery and distillery.
lamarewineestate.com
Bottle to buy: With its ripe citrus nose
and well-structured acidity, Sainte Marie,
£15.19, ‘displays the character of St
Mary’s, as fresh as the north west winds
that prevail’.

6

Laurel, Aike, East Yorkshire
While it might seem absurd that
wine can be grown in the north east of
England, Yorkshire is in fact a premium
wine producing region, with around 16
commercial vineyards producing in excess
of 100,000 bottles of wine each year.
This vineyard is one of eight which make
up the Yorkshire Wine Trail and produces
a variety of still white, red and rosé wines.
Tours run from May to September and
include a picnic for two and tasting for
£40. laurel-vines.co.uk
Bottle to buy: The delicate Madeline
Angevine, £11.40, would pair wonderfully
with cod caught locally off Yorkshire’s east
coast.

7

Little Waddon Vineyard,
Waddon, West Dorset
Nestled just inland of Chesil Beach on
Dorset’s iconic World Heritage Jurassic
Coast, Little Waddon vineyard produces
small batches of wild ferment, low
intervention, wines.
Tour and tasting experiences, from
£20, take place on Saturdays and include
savoury or sweet tasting boards served
in their newly re-furbished tasting room or
on the terrace overlooking the vines.
littlewaddonvineyard.co.uk
Bottle to buy: Their award-winning ‘Col
Fondo’ (£22), a wild ferment wine, made in
the traditional way the Italians would make
sparkling wine, with foot-crushed Phoenix
grapes.

8

Polgoon, Penzance, Cornwall
Set up by former fish merchants John
and Kim Coulson, in 2006, Polgoon, was
formerly an overgrown, run-down flower
farm. Now, 14,000 vines spread across 14
acres of the site, which sits less than a mile
away from the sea.
As John explains: “The name Polgoon

originates from the Cornish for ‘Pond on
the Downs’, describing the original setting
of Polgoon sitting on the sunny hills,
overlooking Mounts Bay.”
Tours run mainly in summer and feature
a look around the vineyard and a tasting
of five of their wines. If that works up an
appetite then hand-stretched pizzas are
available from their Vine House Kitchen.
polgoon.com
Bottle to buy: Polgoon is the only
vineyard in Cornwall to produce a
Sauvignon Blanc, and the 2022 vintage,
£19.95, has notes of lime, passion fruit
and pineapple.

9

Rathfinny, Alfriston, East
Sussex
The owners of Rathfinny, Mark and Sarah
Driver, are responsible for driving the bid
for a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin)
for Sussex Sparkling wine, which they
achieved in June last year.
Their vast 230-acre estate, three miles
from the coast in the heart of the South
Downs National Park, overlooks Seven
Sisters and the English Channel.

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coast DISCOVERY

PHOTGRAPHS: RATHFINNY WINE ESTATE; SANDRIDGE BARTON;
DOVER MEDIA GROUP; ST MARTIN’S VINEYARD

ABOVE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Rathfinny has picturesque views towards Seven Sisters; Sandridge Barton sits near the River Dart, on its way out to
sea; Terlingham’s 2020 limited edition sparkling rosé won bronze at IEWA; St Martin’s currently produces four wines.

In the summer months you can sit on the
hilltop and sip sundowners as you watch
the sunset across the valley while listening
to live music. They also host Dine in the
Vines, a series of events where you can
experience some of the best seasonal
produce from the land, sea and garden.
rathfinnyestate.com
Bottle to buy: Rathfinny’s 2018 Blanc
de Noirs (£42) a blend of predominantly
Pinot Noir with a small quantity of Pinot
Meunier, is their signature wine and
absolutely delicious.

10

Sandridge Barton (formerly
Sharpham), Stoke Gabriel,
Devon
Last year, this estate near the River Dart
in south Devon rebranded as Sandridge
Barton and moved further down the banks
of the river so a new winery, bar, restaurant
and accommodation could be created in
former agricultural buildings, along with the
planting of more vines.
And they must be doing something right
– they secured three coveted trophies at
the nationally recognised Wine GB Awards

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2023 for Best Red Wine in the UK, Best
Still Wine in the UK and Best Regional
Wine.
Tastings, from £10, include self-guided
options, walking trails and tutored tours.
sandridgebarton.com
Bottle to buy: Their new Blanc de Noir
(£45) the first to be released under the
new premium Sandridge Barton signature
range.

11

St Martin’s Vineyard, Scilly
Isles
St Martin’s Vineyard was established
in 1996 by islanders Val and Graham
Thomas. It is now run by hypnotherapist
Holly Robbins and ecologist James
Faulconbridge, who bought the vineyard
following a chance conversation during a
visit to the small island in 2018.
If you’re a regular vineyard visitor, you’ll
notice the landscape is rather different to
other vineyards thanks to the 4m-high
evergreen hedgerows that were planted to
protect the flowers that used to grow here.
Self-guide booklets make walking the
wine trail a breeze and when you’re done,

you can enjoy a tasting flight of wines.
stmartinsvineyard.co.uk
Bottle to buy: The Reserve (£22.50),
an off-dry blush-coloured wine with
notes of apricot, lychee and passion-fruit
flavours, is something a bit different.

12

Terlingham, Folkestone, Kent
Another coastal vineyard ticking
the sustainability box (with gusto) is
Terlingham, which prides itself on being a
carbon negative vineyard and a producer
of award-winning wine and gin. It’s a family
affair here with mum, Lorna, doing a lot of
the farming, sisters Jackie, Caroline and
Ashleigh involved in day-to-day operations
and Dad Graham chief tractor driver!
Situated up on the hills of the North
Downs, with a gorgeous view of the
English Channel, Terlingham hosts regular
wine tours, which include wine tasting,
cheese boards and cake. terlingham.co.uk
Bottle to buy: The 2017 Blanc de
Blancs (£35) won a Gold Award at this
year’s Wine GB Awards or go off-piste
and take home a bottle of Bacchus Gin
(£38.50).

>TǻWǴȥȦKJțǺMȢǰǯȨF^ǨȠYǬJȤǪȜ
LAST MINUTE OFFERS
1 and 2 nights available
call Joanne on
07940 712766

Chesil Beach Lodge is owned by Paul and Joanne Loud and is situated on
the Dorset coast overlooking 99 miles of the beautiful Jurassic coastline. From
Portland to Start Point in Devon.
All apartments have breathtaking sea views from where you can capture
amazing sunsets.
Walk the South West Coastal Path right from the garden gate.
Explore the beautiful rolling countryside and picturesque cottages including
Hardy’s Cottage
Swim or sunbathe at either Hive Beach or Cogden Beach both only a 5
minute walk along a coastal path.
Enjoy fishing off chesil beach.

(MJǷǮDZ

BEACH LODGE

www.chesilbeachlodge.co.uk

… escape to the
island
wood burners, winter walks,
summer holidays & romantic
retreats by the sea…
Call Lucy on 07980 986232

 

               

www.oceanbluecoastalretreats.co.uk



coast COLUMNIST

PLYMOUTH
here is something magical about
crossing Plymouth’s River Tamar.
Meandering to the west of the city and
emptying into the iconic Sound, it
creates a natural threshold to the
wonders of the south west. For me,
crossing the bridge is like passing into another
realm, leaving the stress of the east behind and
following the setting sun to the west.
Approaching Plymouth by sea is even more
inspiring. The Sound is one of those rare places
where a mix of random features comes together to
create something truly magnificent. Like Falmouth
just down the coast, Plymouth’s crowning jewel is its
network of creeks and rivers - like the Tamar - that
flow into the Sound. From a birds-eye view they look
like roots of a tree and down on the water the effect
is that whatever the weather, you’ll have somewhere
to play.
When we passed through on my boat Luna en
route to the Isles of Scilly, westerly winds made
Cawsand a perfect refuge. It was our first ever night
at anchor, an unforgettable experience where I
constantly woke to check we were still attached to
the seabed and weren’t drifting towards rocks on the
moonless night. It’s a strange feeling to go to sleep
when your entire home is at the mercy of a lump of
metal dug into the mud and attached to your boat by
a length of thin chain and rope!
But we chose Cawsand for a reason - it is
sheltered from the prevailing south-westerly winds
that blow off the Atlantic. When mariners seek

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ABOVE William
Thomson FRGS is
author/illustrator of
The Book of Tides
and founder of
Tidal Compass
(tidalcompass.com)

Tide School
Boost your
knowledge of
the sea with
William’s online
tide school:
tide-school.com

sanctuary, they are looking for somewhere sheltered
from the swell and Cawsand does this perfectly
during westerlies.
But if the breeze turns easterly you need to move
out immediately because they threaten your worst
nightmare - a lee shore - which is where strong
onshore winds make you drag anchor and then push
you onto the shore and the razor sharp rocks.
In the days before the Shipping Forecast it was
virtually impossible to predict when the wind would
shift, making coastal sailing incredibly risky. But with
the introduction of barometers, it became possible
for seafarers to monitor fluctuations in air pressure
and judge where they are in relation to the centre of a
high or low pressure system. By knowing that winds
blow clockwise around a high and anti-clockwise
around a low, you can get an idea of what wind to
expect next because they generally move west-toeast off the Atlantic.
But this level of meteorological skill takes years of
practice and making mistakes can have catastrophic
results. This is why the Shipping Forecast is so
useful; it means that experts can collect information
from the entire United Kingdom, drawing a picture of
what’s going on and then sending out warnings to
sailors around the coastal stations.
With that knowledge people like me can fully enjoy
places like Cawsand during westerlies, then weigh
anchor just in time to make sure we’re not there
during the easterlies. This is the game of the sea; to
position yourself at the right place at the right time,
avoiding the wrong place at the wrong time.

PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK

Join WILLIAM THOMSON on his journey each month
exploring a Shipping Forecast region

coast COLUMNIST
Cawsand is the ideal spot to
shelter from unhelpful weather.

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coast COLUMNIST

coast COLUMNIST

Plymouth. East, 4 to 5.
Moderate. Poor.
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?
The reason many sailors anchor in the village of Cawsand is they
are taking shelter from the westerly winds while waiting for an
easterly to push them down the Channel towards Falmouth.
In the days before engines, some people became so
desperate to get out the Channel that they would simply drift
with the currents when they flowed west for six hours, then
anchor for six hours when they turned east, then drift again
when they turned west, repeating the cycle until either the wind
turned or they got out to the Atlantic.
The technique was known as tiding over, but as you can
imagine it is incredibly slow and tedious. It’s much better to
hunker down and wait somewhere like Cawsand. But you want
to keep the Shipping Forecast on because when they announce
‘East, 4 to 5’, it’s time to head out to sea.
However, beforehand you need to check visibility along this
moisture rich coastline where fogs can roll in with little warning.
‘Poor’ in the Shipping Forecast means the visibility is between
two nautical miles (3.6km) and 1,000m. If it gets any worse than
this it will be defined as ‘Fog’, a danger to navigation.
With modern technology, now even fog can present minimal
disruption. Radar scans what’s around us while AIS (Automatic
Identification System) reads other boats’ transponders so you
can speak to them and let them know you’re there.
While nature is wild and unpredictable, us humans are always
finding ingenious solutions to the challenges it presents.
What are the conditions for Plymouth today? Tune into the
Shipping Forecast on BBC Radio 4 at 00:48, 05:20, 12:01
or 17:54 to find out!

You can buy this
map as
a print at tideschool.com
Use code
#coastmag for
a 25 per cent
discount

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coast COLUMNIST

PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK; ALAMY

PLYMOUTH AND TWO MEN
NAMED FRANCIS
Two of Plymouth’s most memorable moments
involve men by the name of Sir Francis. The first –
Drake - was the first Englishman to circumnavigate
the world. Part pirate, part loyal servant to the
queen, in the late half of the 1500s he set sail
aboard the Golden Hinde with the mission to
disrupt Spanish shipping, an epic voyage that
culminated in the capture of the galleon Cacafuego
off the west coast of Central America.
Heavily laden with gold, jewels and silver, the
treasure ship was worth tens of millions of pounds
in modern money, a sum we will never quite know
because he unloaded it in secrecy on what is now
known as Drake’s Island in Plymouth Sound. What
we do know is that it was enough to make Sir
Francis Drake a multi-millionaire.
Four hundred years later, another Francis
– Chichester – sailed into Plymouth Sound to
widespread acclaim. This time, his achievement
was a feat of endurance, being the first person to
sail single-handed around the world with just one
stop.
After 226 days at sea, in May 1967 thousands of
spectators flocked onto the Hoe (where Drake was
famously playing bowls when the Spanish Armada
appeared) and a flotilla of local boats greeted him
in the Sound. You can watch a grainy YouTube
video of his return, rust stains running down the
hull as Gypsy Moth IV is surrounded by warships,
sailing boats, fishing trawlers and almost anything
else that floats.
What made Chichester’s feat so impressive?
Was it his advanced age of 66, or his resilience
to withstand 226 days alone at sea, or the
combination of luck and skill that helped him
survive rogue waves and cyclones, or that he had
safely navigated the world’s oceans with just a
barometer, sextant and clock?
It was probably a mixture of them all and it was
enough to gain him a knighthood in the wake of Sir
Francis Drake.
But Chichester’s’ quest left one question in the
air - could someone do the same journey, singlehanded around the world - without stopping? The
gauntlet was thrown down and a challenge was
set - the Golden Globe Race of 1968. The rules
were simple; navigators had to depart by a set
date and then sail around the world via the three
great capes (Cape of Good Hope, Cape Leeuwin
and Cape Horn) returning back where they started
without stopping.
Nine sailors set sail, each very different both in
their boats and personalities. The romantic of the

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William loves sailing in
Plymouth Sound.

In May 1967 a flotilla of local boats greeted
Francis Chichester in the Sound.

coast COLUMNIST

‘What made Chichester’s feat
so impressive? Was it his
advanced age at 66, or his
resilience to withstand 226
days alone at sea, or the
combination of luck and skills
that helped him survive rogue
waves and cyclones?

fleet was a Frenchman called Bernard Moitessier,
who prepared his boat for the race at Cawsand
where I spent my first night on the hook aboard
Luna.
After completing the most dangerous part,
the Southern Ocean, he was in the lead and
just needed to turn north back to Plymouth, but
instead he decided that winning the race would
ruin his soul so he continued around half the world
again, dropping anchor on the Polynesian island of
Tahiti in the South Pacific.
This is what I love about sailing; with a spirit
of adventure, you can take a small boat from
Plymouth Sound and set sail to the furthest
reaches of earth, simply by being blown along
by the wind, the very essence of the Shipping
Forecast.
Next month
William will explore the Shipping Forecast
region Portland

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CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN The rocky outcrop no longer
accessible at Brean Down; Exploring Brean Down; Training the
troops with guns during the Second World War.

Celebrating a

HIDDEN GEM
A new walking festival takes hikers through the ‘sands of time’ as
RACHEL MEAD reveals as she profiles a lesser-known hiking destination

PHOTOS: RACHEL MEAD; ISOBEL PRING;
ANNA CREW, NATIONAL TRUST

I

’m not sure if one should divulge their
secret walking routes in a national
magazine but in this instance, I have
been overcome to break my silence
on what I truly believe is one of our
coastline’s hidden walking gems.
Fellow footpath followers, I am going
to insist that you pack your backpacks
and lace up your hiking boots and head
to the west country, on this occasion
however, you are not heading to the
more ‘well-trodden’ of counties further
west but you are in fact alighting in the
county of Somerset.
Yes, unbeknown to many, there is
in fact a coastline in Somerset and
it is being celebrated as part of the
newly launched Somerset & Exmoor
Coast Festival. Various length walks
exploring the King Charles III England
Coast Path and the South West Coast
Path are on the agenda so you’ll be

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able to embrace the Somerset sea
air whilst uncovering the local history
and remarkable biodiversity en route.
(Oh, and whilst I’m giving away all my
secrets, you’ll also want to join the
walk which takes you to the Jurassic
waterfall at St Audrie’s Bay - shhh!)
The Somerset & Exmoor Coast
Festival is focusing on the unique stretch
of coastline between Porlock Weir (the
first site in England to have attained
an ‘A’ classification for pacific oysters)
and the home of the natural pier, Brean
Down. There are walks to suit all ages
and abilities, from short accessible walks
to long distance routes tracking across
the county, including an ‘80 miles in
eight days’ challenge.
Today, whilst splurging my soul, I
am introducing you to a 5km walk
at Brean Down, the unique tip of the
Mendip Hills which is now recognised

THE EVOLVING FORT
The fort has changed use several
times over the years. Originally built
as one of five ‘Palmerston’ forts in
the 19th century to guard the Bristol
Channel against French invasion, it
was home to over 50 men.
Between the years 1910-1936 the
building was then converted into the
Old Fort Picnic Refreshment Rooms
for holidaymakers from WestonSuper-Mare. In 1941, Brean Down
was re-fortified for the war against
Germany and it is relics from this
period which are most visible today.
A large concrete arrow set in the
ground was used for target practice,
and rusting rails are remnants from
Project Baseball where the military
tested their ‘bouncing bombs.’

xx

coast WALKING

MAINTAINING
THE SPECIAL
LANDSCAPE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Brean Down is over 300 feet above sea level; The rare White Rock Rose at
Brean; Many hikes included in the walking festival will include glimpses of Exmoor Ponies.

nationally and internationally for its
incredibly rare sands. Expect a raised
heart rate as you make your way up
the 300 feet or so, but once you’re on
the flat take your time on making it to
the peninsula because you will in fact
be walking on ‘sands of time’ as the
very ground beneath your feet has been
accumulating here since the last Ice Age.
Designated as a Site of Special
Scientific Interest, a Special Area
of Conservation and a Scheduled
Monument, Brean Down is a secret
which harbours exceptional credentials.
For the naturalists, these shallow soils
gift the incredibly rare white rock rose,
with autumnal treasures of wild carrot
and goldilocks aster also regularly found
to be flanking the footpaths. As for the
birders, the Severn Estuary is a wetland
designated of international importance
under the Ramsar convention so don’t
forget your binoculars. Autumn sees the
return of many over-wintering birds such
as wigeon, redshank and ringed plover
who re-join the resident oystercatchers
and peregrine falcons.
And then, the other marvel about
Brean Down is its incredibly diverse
social history which is revealed in
an array of archaeological finds and
architectural structures many of which
are visible today. You are still able to
walk amongst the footings of a Roman
temple, an Iron Age hillfort, Medieval field
systems and a mid-19th Century fort.

On approach to the tip of the
peninsula the forms of structures will
begin to take shape and the strategic
positioning of the aged fortifications is
clear. It’s likely to be breezy whilst you’re
standing out ‘in’ the Bristol Channel,
and the force of the second-highest
tidal range in the world will be felt in your
feet as the waters crash against the
limestone cliffs.
It’s invigorating and powerful and
captivating, and the combination of our
ancestral heritage and diverse ecology
are what make Somerset’s Brean Down
the secret definitely worth sharing.
• Find out more about the Somerset
& Exmoor Coast Festival at
somersetcoastfestival.co.uk.

With so much diverse flora and
fauna, Brean Down requires
careful management. Owned by
the National Trust since 1954,
Joel Bunting is the area ranger for
Mid-Somerset.
Joel reveals: “As part of our
management plan for the site, we
are having to intervene with the
scrub encroachment. If we didn’t
do this, the site would slowly
cover with bracken and bramble
and then into a dense scrubby
layer of vegetation.
“By using a combination of
Roboflail and tractors we can
cover wide areas of the site to
support the diverse grassland
which makes the site so special.
“Our long-term vision for the
management of the scrub and
grassland is to perfect the use of
grazing animals on the site, such
as cattle, to naturally control the
scrub and grassland balance.
This would mean that the
management of the site would
become more holistic and
sympathetic to wildlife and
visitors alike.”

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coast SHORT BREAK

WEEKEND IN…

The Isle of Arran’s main village basks between mountains and
beach, radiating a seaside vibe that combines art, botany and
wildlife, reveals EMILY ROSE MAWSON

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PHOTOGRAPHS: NTS; EMILY ROSE MAWSON; VISITARRAN.COM

coast SHORT BREAK

ou’ll never forget the view as
you sail into the port of
Brodick. The Scottish Isle of
Arran’s main village lies where
the depths of the Firth of
Clyde segue into a mile-long sandy
crescent sheltered by pointy
summits. They rear up from gentle
folds of farmland, suddenly topping
out on the pyramidal peak of Goat
Fell at 2,867 feet, and are scythed
open here and there by deep glens.
Tightly packed cottages and
villas dating from the 1920s and
’30s line the south side of the bay,
facing the red sandstone turrets of
Brodick Castle that protrude from
towering pine trees on the opposite
shore.
Brodick is an hour’s ferry
crossing from Ardrossan on the
mainland, itself an hour from
Glasgow, but this scenery is
unexpected. As a result of the
Highland Boundary Fault, which
cuts the island in two, Arran is often

dubbed ‘Scotland in miniature’. It
has a mountainous Highlands-like
top and an agricultural Lowlandslike bottom, with Brodick, a lively
seaport, situated just about in the
middle, along the narrow 55-mile
road that encircles the island.
The village largely developed
after the first pier was built in 1872
but the area has been settled for
thousands of years. Nearby you’ll
find evidence of Iron Age hill forts
(including a very scenic one at Dun
Fionn) and cup-and-ring marks
carved into rocks (at Stronach
Wood above the bay). But it was
the Vikings who gave the place
its name when they sailed their
longships into the deep sheltered
crescent in the 9th century and
declared it Breda Vick (broad bay).
To soak it all in, I follow the
Fisherman’s Walk Circuit, an easy
3½-miler that starts at the end of
the promenade near the ‘wee’
Co-op. It starts on boardwalk that

PREVIOUS PAGE
The Fisherman’s
Walk is overlooked
by Goatfell.
TOP FROM LEFT
Glen Rosa’s
Highland’s-like
scenery is within
easy reach of the
sandy beach; The
Fisherman’s Walk
follows boardwalk
with views of
Goatfell;.

weaves across tidal plains beside
the golf course towards Goat Fell.
It’s delightful to watch the grey
seals cavorting in the water, and
cormorants and oystercatchers
foraging the shoreline. They’re part
of a crowd of local wildlife that also
includes golden eagles and adders
in the surrounding glens – both
species that are protected by law
as they are in decline elsewhere in
Britain.
Soon, you pass the lane to
Arran Heritage Museum – a good
stop-off for anyone interested in
the fascinating local history and
geology. Its Geohub reveals why
the island is a source of excitement
among geologists near and far:
there’s the achingly pretty North
Glen Sannox, a few miles further
north, which has examples of pillow
lavas from the Ordovician age,
thought to represent remnants of
ocean crust from the continental
collision. And it was on the coast

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coast SHORT BREAK

in Lochranza, at Arran’s north end,
where newer rocks are laid on
top of older, that the 18th century
Scottish geologist James Hutton
proved the earth was billions, not
thousands, of years old.
Set in a former croft, the
museum also has fantastic
recreations of a 19th century
cottage, blacksmith’s shop and a
1940s schoolroom, and displays
on farming, social history and the
Clearances. I head for its tearoom,
Cafe Rosaburn, to recharge with a
wedge of chocolate, banana and
coconut loaf – irresistible; the place
does some of the best baking in
Brodick.
As you continue along the

TOP FROM LEFT
TO RIGHT
Brodick Castle
was the ancestral
seat of the Dukes
of Hamilton; The
Arran whitebeam
(sorbus
arranensis) is one
of the rarest trees
in the world; The
walled gardens at
Brodick Castle are
arranged in
delicate colour
palettes.

Fisherman’s Walk via beach and
road, you eventually reach Home
Farm, once the castle’s estate farm,
now home to businesses such as
Arran Cheese Shop and ARRAN
Sense of Scotland, stocking
toiletries inspired by the landscape
– think fragrances such as gorse
and sea air.
But first comes Cladach, where
burn estuaries once welcomed
cargo vessels, passenger boats
and the postal ship to the site of
the original village. Nowadays, the
hamlet is home to Isle of Arran
Brewery, renowned for its beer and
real ale; Saltwater Gallery, in the
former laundry building for Brodick
Castle, specialising in contemporary

‘Cladach is where bun estuaries once welcomed
cargo vessels, passenger boats and the postal ship’
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seascapes; and Arran Botanical
Drinks, serving seasonal cocktails in
a beach bar setting.
It’s also the gateway to the main
route up Goat Fell, on a well-made
path that climbs consistently for
around five hours and is worth it in
good weather for the views across
the Kilbrannan Sound to the Paps
of Jura and the Firth of Clyde to the
Isles of Cumbrae and Bute.
“The northern mountains of
Arran are formed by hard granite,
sculpted by glaciers that have
carved sweeping glens with sharp,
rugged ridges,” explains National
Trust for Scotland senior ranger
Kate Sampson, who looks after
the land around Goat Fell and
runs guided walks. “This diversity
of landscape supports numerous
habitats, which in turn support a
diversity of wildlife and plants.”
She recommends walking up
Glen Rosa, which is in easy reach
of Cladach. In May the glen is

covered in bluebells, and if you look
carefully, you may see the beautiful
green hairstreak butterflies. You
can also look out for golden-ringed
dragonflies and heath spotted
orchids, sweet-scented bog myrtle
and the endemic Arran whitebeams
– some of the rarest trees in the
world.
Another good place to explore
Arran’s spectacular botanic
diversity, which thrives thanks to
the island’s unique microclimate,
are the sea-view gardens at
Brodick Castle. The weird and
wonderful plants include spiky
Puya berteroniana, native to the
mountains of Chile, whipcord cobra
lily from the Himalayas, and giant
vipers-bugloss, reaching 20 feet
tall, from the Canary Isles, as well
as three National Collections of
rhododendrons with giant waxy
teardrops of leaves.
Many of these rare specimens
were acquired in

ABOVE In
Brodick, you don’t
have to choose
between
mountains and
sea.

WHERE TO STAY

With deep bay windows overlooking the ferry terminal and bay, The
Douglas Hotel is a C-listed, 18th-century sandstone affair that once
welcomed submariners who came to train in the waters of the Clyde.
Stylishly renovated with nods to its surroundings, such as a dusky
palette of island-inspired tones with accents of tartan and tweed, it is
suave, but comfortable and welcoming. Book the top-floor suite if you
can (it comes with its own private balcony commanding a sweeping
vista of the bay).
But all the rooms are spacious and nicely done out, featuring superking-sized beds with luxurious mattress toppers. The hotel also has
a bistro and bar, and outdoor terraces with that beautiful sea view.
thedouglashotel.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPH: THE DOUGLAS HOTEL

PHOTOGRAPHS: EMILY ROSE MAWSON

coast SHORT BREAK

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coast SHORT BREAK

A WALK OF ART
Ann Hume is a Brodick-based jeweller who draws inspiration from
the world around her. Here she shares the best of the village’s arts
scene.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANN HUME

What can visitors expect from the arts in Brodick?
I’d recommend following the Arran Arts Heritage Trail, with
sandstone plinths celebrating artists who have been inspired
by Arran’s landscape. In Brodick the featured artist is Craigie
Aitcheson, whose plinth is on the seafront facing Goat Fell. At Arran
Heritage Museum there is a second plinth celebrating the potter
Hugh Purdie, along with a permanent display of his work. There’s
also the Arran Art Trail, which takes in three stunning studios in
Brodick.
arranartsheritagetrail.com
arranarttrailcom
Which are your favourite arts outlets?
I often visit Saltwater Gallery at Cladach for its eclectic mix of work,
mainly inspired by the sea. I also like painter Angela Elliott Walker’s
studio (appointment only) – her works have beautiful colour, lines
and shapes inspired by island days. Then there are Tim Pomeroy’s
sculptures in Brodick Castle grounds, which I admire for their
monumentality and delicate detail inspired by natural forms. But the
best of it is Arran Open Studios, when over 30 studios open their
doors to the public each August.
saltwatergallery.co.uk
angela-elliott-walker.co.uk
arranopenstudios.org
Where do you go in Brodick for inspiration?
Each morning I take a walk along Cladach beach and sit near the
old boathouse, watching the changing light and listening to the
peaceful sound of the sea.

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the 1920s by the 6th Duchess
of Montrose, Lady Mary Louise
Hamilton, who bought shares
in plant-hunting expeditions to
unexplored corners of the world.
For centuries the castle was the
strategic seat of the Dukes of
Hamilton, but the present building
took shape in 1844 and is now
owned by the National Trust for
Scotland.
It is lined with valuable artefacts,
including a fantastic collection
of 18th and 19th century works
by artists such as Jean Antoine
Watteau, Thomas Gainsborough
and John Fredrick Herring that are
an important part of the lively local
art scene (see panel).
Views from the castle’s southfacing perch are commanding, and
on the sunny day I visit, when the
sea twinkles turquoise, the scene
recalls the Balearics. So, when
Kate Sampson says that on Arran,
“you have the lot, and all within
easy reach”, she’s right.

ABOVE
The Mini Golf on
the seafront is
spectacularly
scenic.

PHOTOGRAPHS: VISITARRAN.COM

coast SHORT BREAK
This tranquillity is 20 minutes’
walk from the promenade – broad
and bustling, with the buzz of
a busy seaport for most of the
summer. It’s always fun to play mini
golf, operated by the Taste of Arran
Shop on the seafront (it also stocks
produce such as creamy Arran
Cheese and Wooleys of Arran
oatcakes).
Strike out shopping afterwards:
nearby are the boutique Driftwood,
which sells covetable coastal
interior items, and Arran Active,
an award-winning family-owned
outdoors store where you can
also hire paddle boards, as well
as James of Arran, a fantastic
chocolate shop that handmakes
high-cocoa-content creations.
For a more active afternoon,
there’s a bike hire shed – lots of
visitors like to cycle the coast
road – or for relaxation, the spa
with swimming pool at Auchrannie
Resort, which also has two hotels.
“In the evenings there is great
pub entertainment,” says Sheila
Gilmore, CEO of Visit Arran and
Development Manager of the
Arran Trust. She recommends the
Ormidale Hotel, The Douglas, or
Brodick Bar, part of the fine dining
restaurant Brodick Brasserie.
Sheila adds: “Sometimes you
can catch a concert at Brodick
Hall with Music Arran, part of the
Arran Theatre and Arts Trust. It’s
always a lovely experience that
brings together lots of people
of different ages and makes for an
eclectic and enthusiastic audience.”
With luck your weekend will
feature a Brodick sunset – and
that you’ll never forget, either. I
settle onto my seaside bench and
gaze at it through half-closed eyes,
watching as the coast turns soft
gold.
At sea, lights twinkle here and
there on cargo ships sheltering
overnight in the bay, and the
sun blazes as it sinks behind the
mountains, smudging definition
from the rockfaces.

ABOVE
Brodick Bay is a
hub of boating
activity.

DINE IN STYLE
FOR BREAKFAST…
With a port-side perch, coastal styling of white and royal blue, and
a counter full of homemade cakes, Little Rock has all the trappings
of the seaside café. It opens at 9am daily, serving breakfast options
such as the ‘Arran Brekkie’ of Arran Butcher’s links sausages with
black pudding and tattie scones from Wooley’s, the Arran bakery
on the seafront.
The cafe is run by husband-and-wife duo Ailie and Chris, who
with their friendly team offer some of the best service in town.
There’s a dog-friendly section and a deli selling produce from
independent wholesalers.
littlerockarran.com
FOR LUNCH…
The Wineport occupies an unmissable candy pink manor at
Cladach that was the old traveller’s inn. These days it’s popular with
hikers fresh off Goat Fell. For lunch, the locally sourced menu might
feature smoked salmon salad from Skipness Smokehouse in Argyll,
beetroot bhaji with tzatziki, or smoked mackerel pate and Arran
oaties. In fine weather there’s a sun-drenched garden to enjoy.
wineport.co.uk
FOR DINNER…
Facing Brodick’s sandy beach, The Parlour dishes up stone-baked,
hand-thrown, sourdough pizzas with all the classic toppings on a
sauce infused with extra virgin olive oil.
Enjoy the cafe-bar interior or get a takeout to savour by the sea.
Follow up with a scoop of Arran Ice Cream, available at the counter
in flavours such as toffee fudge and Brodick brulee.
arransfoodjourney.com/business/the-parlour

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 5 9

coast PEOPLE

COAST CHARACTER
Founder of eco-friendly cosmetics brand Surf Balm, and a contestant
on BBC’s The Apprentice 2023, JOE PHILLIPS is taking action
to protect the ocean – one lip balm at a time
WORDS BETH NORTON

aised in Zimbabwe, Joe
Phillips was immersed in
nature from a young age.
When he moved to the UK
and studied zoology, he
often started his days at the
University of Exeter’s Cornwall campus
by going surfing before lectures,
sometimes sharing the waves with seals.
A qualified safari guide, he’s using his
business experience to make a positive
change for the natural world that he loves
so much.
“I have a deep love for the ocean,”
says Joe. “It can provide you with such
joy in life, and it certainly did for me when

I studied in Falmouth. But because of
that, it broke my heart every time I saw
beaches with the high tide mark littered
in plastic.
“That’s when I made it my mission to
try to make a difference to that plastic
pollution; to make a lip balm that was not
only sustainable, but also plastic free.
“My experience as a safari guide in
South Africa has taught me how delicate
nature can be. It doesn’t matter whether
it’s the African savannah or the Cornish
coastline – every action that each
individual takes has a direct impact on the
wellbeing and the welfare of the animals
in that ecosystem.”

Of his time on BBC’s The Apprentice
2023, Joe hopes his TV appearance
served as an instrument to encourage
more retailers to transition towards
locally produced, environmentally friendly
cosmetics.
Surf Balm is handmade in Cornwall
from 100 per cent natural ingredients,
containing no petroleum or artificial
flavours. Unlike lip balms in cardboard
containers, Surf Balm has been designed
for people who love the outdoors, so
it’s also waterproof. It’s packaged in an
aluminium container which, unlike plastic,
is infinitely recyclable.
• surfbalm.shop

INSET Joe Phillips is determined to make
a positive change for the natural world.

PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK

MAIN It was when Joe joined the
many others surfing in Cornwall that his
love of the ocean heightened.

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coast DISCOVERY

MARINA NEWS
All the latest news on boating, berthing and harbour
developments from around the UK
WORLD ECO AWARD FOR
MARINAS GROUP
Take to the water in
style with Freedom
Boat Club Torquay.

FREE TO HAVE A GOOD TIME
ON THE WATER
As the popularity for boating and water-based
activities continues to grow, the recent launch of
Freedom Boat Club Torquay offers plenty of new
opportunities in the south west.
Based on Beacon Quay, the Freedom clubhouse
overlooks the beautiful bay and Torquay Marina,
making it an ideal base to embark on all kinds of
boating adventures, just a short hop away from some
of the most picturesque spots in the south west.
The fleet at Torquay currently consists of three
Zodiac RIBS, a 5.5m Gulf Stream Limited Edition and
two larger 6.8m Medline as well as a Quicksilver 705
Pilot House, which is perfect for angling and relaxed
cruising, providing protection from any weather
thanks to its cabin. All boats are powered by the
latest Mercury outboards, and as more members
join, additional boats will be added.
An impressive 385+ Freedom locations worldwide
provide a straightforward route to unlimited boating,
reciprocal club access, full training, whilst all the tasks
that boat ownership normally brings are carried out
by the team.
Oliver Patterson, club manager at Torquay,
comments: “We are looking forward to welcoming
Freedom Boat Club members to enjoy the charms of
Torquay. The sheltered waters and stunning coastal
views provide perfect cruising grounds for all types
of leisure boaters, and we’re excited to introduce
new and veteran boaters alike to everything Torquay
has to offer through the ease and accessibility of
Freedom.”
• freedomboatclub.com

Premier Marinas is
committed to sustainability
objectives at its sites.

Premier Marinas has been awarded the
prestigious silver EcoVadis recognition for its
commitment to sustainable business practice.
This significant achievement builds upon
the bronze medal achieved in 2022 and
places Premier Marinas in the top 25 per cent of companies
assessed by EcoVadis, the world’s most trusted business
sustainability ratings.
By achieving this prestigious milestone, Premier Marinas
solidifies its position as a leader in sustainable marina operations
and highlights its dedication to continual improvement year on year.
Reducing and preventing water and air pollution is at the top of
Premier Marinas’ sustainability objectives. For example, pumpout facilities are being rolled out to allow boaters to conveniently
dispose of blackwater and prevent toxic discharge which could
have a detrimental effect on the environment.
Commenting on the achievement, Pete Bradshaw, Premier
Marinas’ CEO, says: “This recognition is testament to the hard
work and dedication of our team and demonstrates our continued
commitment to sustainability.”

BREAKWATER BONUS FOR
BERTH HOLDERS
Berth holders and visitors to Haslar Marina in
Gosport can be certain of a good night’s sleep
now Inland and Coastal Marina Systems has
installed a 70m wave attenuating breakwater at
the eastern end of the marina.

The new breakwater at
Haslar Marina has enabled
new berths to be created.

ICMS has used its expertise in pontoon design
and manufacture to create a bespoke floating concrete breakwater
to reduce the wave climate in a particularly exposed section of the
marina.
Extending the frontage of the marina from the bow of the iconic
green lightship, the protection provided by this new fully serviced
floating breakwater has enabled Haslar Marina to create new berths,
maximising usable space as demand for quality berthing across the
UK goes up, and increasing return on investment.
Ben Lippiett, marina general manager, explains: “Our new floating
concrete breakwater has given us greater protection from the action
of the wind and waves.”

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 6 1

coast PROMOTION

THE PERFECT LIFESTYLE
HOLIDAY INVESTMENT
Eight stunning North Cornwall eco-holiday villas are causing
quite a stir in the holiday home market. We find out why...

L

One of eight new luxury villas
available for sale at Whalesborough
luxury farm resort

ocated in an idyllic meadow-setting
with stunning countryside views
close to the North Cornish
coastline, eight four-bedroom eco-villas
are available to buy at Whalesborough
luxury farm resort. Set in 450 acres of
serene farmland, close to the pretty
seaside town of Bude, golden beaches,
headlands and pretty villages are all
within striking distance.

ECO-CREDENTIALS

Featuring green roofs with wildflower
blankets, exposed timber cladding
and traditional Cornish stone, the
luxury single-storey villas wear their
eco-credentials well. The resort aims
become net zero by Summer 2024, and
entirely self-sufficient for both power and
produce within ten years.

CORNISH CONTEMPORARY
CHIC

Each comes with a large open-plan
kitchen, dining and living area, four
luxurious bedrooms with ensuites, and
floor to ceiling windows that open onto
the private decking, garden and alfresco dining areas.

PHOTOGRAPHY: WHALESBROUGH

FANTASTIC FACILITIES

On-site facilities include a state-of-theart gym, Gaia natural skincare spa,
heated indoor and outdoor pools, tennis
courts, a restaurant, children’s play
areas, woodland, meadow, coastal and
canal walks, even on-site fishing.

HASSLE FREE LIFESTYLE
INVESTMENT

The villas offer the convenience of
being fully managed and marketed with
yields expected to reach £80,000 a
year. Providing an exceptional lifestyle
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investment and the ideal holiday home
for friends and family, it’s easy to see
why two of the villas have already been
sold.

COASTLINES AND BEACH LIFE
NEARBY

From surfing to beach days there’s
something for everyone close to
Whalesborough.
Summerleaze Beach, accessed
along the canal towpath, is home to
the semi-natural tidal Bude Sea Pool.
Next door is Crooklets beach offering
golden sands and brightly coloured
beach huts.
Sandymouth, Northcott Mouth (NT)
and Black Rock beaches are all are dogfriendly year-round.

THINGS TO DO AND PLACES TO
VISIT:
If music’s your thing, Bude has its
own Jazz Festival (late August/early
September), and Folk Festival, and the

Leopollooza music festival (July) takes
place just eight miles away. Bude also
has its own Food Festival and Literary
Festival.
Further afield, Boscastle and Tintagel
are to the south, and just over the border
you’ll find the hauntingly beautiful, trafficfree cobbled fishing village of Clovelly, as
well as RHS Garden Rosemore.

HOW MUCH?

The villas each cost £749,950. Annual
service charges and ground rents apply.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY?

Whalesborough is offering a money back
guarantee on try before you buy breaks
for all guests that go on to buy one of
the six remaining eco-villas; whether you
stay for a weekend, a week or more.
• For all sales enquiries, or to
arrange a try before you buy break,
call 01288 361 940 or visit
whalesborough.co.uk/villas

coast PROMOTION

...AND HERE’S YOUR
CHANCE TO WIN
One reader will win a long weekend at Whalesborough luxury farm
resort with spa treatments and food from the farm included
hen it comes to coast and
country, it doesn’t get any better
than a 5-star break at
Whalesborough luxury farm
resort, set on the edge of the
Atlantic coastline near Bude.
Here you’ll find pet-friendly cottages, barns and
soon to come luxury eco-villas, each set against the
backdrop of fields and pastures that roll down to the
dramatic North Cornish Coast.
Alongside miles of countryside, coastal and canal
walks, you can enjoy the finest of Cornwall’s produce
served up at the on-site Weir Restaurant, including
lamb and beef raised on Whalesborough’s own fields.
Enviable leisure facilities include a heated indoor
pool with swim-in spa, sauna, steam room, and
jacuzzi, a well-equipped gym, outdoor pool, and
tennis courts. Farmer Dan will even take you on tractor
and trailer tours across the estate and down to Water
Cove Beach.
As for little ones, pre-schoolers can look forward to
fur and feather encounters, an under 6’s playroom and
an outside adventure play area with climbing frames,
bird-hide lookout, ‘badger set tunnels’, and the
heron’s nest swing.
For dog owners, Whalesborough provides enclosed
gardens, pet blankets and throws, dog showers,
luxury pooch packs on arrival, and even a dog-sitting
service.
But that’s not all. With the release of eight new
luxury eco-holiday villas to buy at Whalesborough, you
could own a glorious piece of Cornwall yourself.
• Visit www.whalesborough.co.uk or call 01288
361940 to book a try before you buy break, fully
refundable on purchase of a villa.

The villas celebrate
Cornish contemporary
chic at its best.

THE PRIZE
Three-night break staying at
Windy Hills (November 24-27,
2023), inclusive of two spa
treatments and two meals for
up to four guests at The Weir
Restaurant.
HOW TO ENTER
Please go to the competition
page at coastmagazine.co.uk/
win and answer this question by
October 27, 2023:
Where is the
Whalesborough luxury
farm resort located?
A: St Ives
B: Bude
C: Newquay

KELSEY TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Prize is non-refundable and no cash alternative is available. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Entry is free. Open to residents of
the UK aged over 18. Employees of Kelsey Media and the competition provider and their family members are not eligible to win. Only one entry permitted per household; no bulk entries will be
accepted. The first correct entry drawn after the closing date will win. Our winner will be notified within 28 days. If our winner fails to respond after three attempts at contact, a new winner will be
drawn. The prize is not transferable. If any prize or product is lost or damaged during the course of delivery to the recipient, Kelsey Media will provide reasonable assistance in seeking to resolve
the problem. However, it will not always be possible to obtain replacements for lost or damaged goods and, in that event, no financial compensation would be payable by Kelsey Media or its
affiliates. We reserve the right to cancel the competition if circumstances change which are beyond our control. Coast is a Kelsey Media brand. Here at Kelsey Media we take your privacy
seriously and will only use your personal information to provide the products and services you have requested from us. We will only contact you with news and special offers via the preferences
you have indicated. We will never share your information with any third party without your consent. You can view our full Privacy Policy at kelsey.co.uk/privacy-notice/
WHALESBOROUGH TERMS AND CONDITIONS: No alternative weekend to be offered – fixed weekend break dates; 3 nights commencing 24 November. The prize provides £200 of vouchers
towards the cost of spa treatments alone at Whalesborough Spa, which is within W Club The e-vouchers are redeemable on the cost of spa treatments at Whalesborough Spa. If treatments
exceed the value of the e-voucher, the difference must be paid. e-vouchers will be issued to the winner and are not transferrable. The two meals for up to four guests have a value up to
£200. No change will be given. Any food or drink purchased in excess of the prize voucher value must be paid for. Standard booking terms and conditions apply.

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 6 3

coast RECOMMENDS

coast

CONFIDENTIAL

Our indispensable monthly guide to great
things happening on our shores

RENT A WETSUIT…HELP PROTECT THE PLANET
Finisterre, the Cornwall-based sustainable
product pioneer, has announced
the launch of the world’s first Yulex wetsuit
rental programme.
The British surf brand’s new online
service (powered by Zoa, the UK’s first
integrated fashion rental specialists) will
allow customers to test and try
durable, flexible, and high-performance
wetsuits built from a clean alternative to
neoprene.
By making the naturally derived material
accessible to more sea-goers, Finisterre
hopes to further chip away at the surf
industry’s long-standing reliance on
traditional petroleum-based wetsuits.
Yulex is a naturally derived clean
alternative to neoprene and is used
across the full Finisterre wetsuit range.
Specifically, Finisterre uses Yulex Pure,
which is made using natural rubber
from plantations certified by the Forest
Stewardship Council. Finisterre combines
this with recycled spandex and recycled

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polyester to create one of the most
sustainable wetsuits on the market
without compromising on strength,
performance, warmth, or durability.
Finisterre will charge a daily rental fee
of 2.5 per cent of the total RRP of the
wetsuit. Rental prices start from just £20
for a five-day minimum rental, with a
daily charge of £4 per day thereafter. As
the platform is online only, delivery of the
wetsuit to the customer will be free and
will come with a prepaid label for returns.
Finisterre also offers a money-back
guarantee for any item returned unworn,
making the rent-use-return process even
simpler.
Rental options include four women’s
items and three men’s options. And a
more winter-ready men’s and women’s
wetsuit will be added to the range in the
autumn.
• More details on the scheme can be
found here: finisterre.com/collections/
finisterre-wetsuit-rental

BEN’S BITE-SIZED
BRILLIANCE
I love the Cornish town of
Wadebridge…in my opinion a true
undiscovered gem, writes ANDY
COOPER. But now there is even
more reason to make haste there
with the opening of restaurant
ONDA.
Opened by one of Cornwall’s
exciting young chefs, Ben Ambridge,
following his successful relaunch of
The Fox’s Revenge near Newquay
- he wanted to bring something
different to the town.
And he has certainly achieved
that. Inspired by Italian cuisine, the
restaurant takes Ben’s approach
of punchy flavours and small plate
sharers, with the aim of bringing
people together to enjoy great food!
I enjoyed a properly lovely lunch
there and was impressed with the
breadth and depth of the textures
and flavours in Ben’s cooking.
And I’m not the only one…ONDA
has already been endorsed by
Gordon Ramsey, who has hailed the
restaurant as the town’s “best new
secret”.
Choose from dishes at lunch
such as arancini, black truffle mayo
and rocket, or beef ragu, organic
mafaldine and parmesan. Dinner
promises such delights as Porthilly
mussels, nduja, focaccia and
fries or gnocchi sardi, courgette,
mascarpone, mint and peas.
What a proper job of a spot this is!
ondawadebridge.co.uk

coast RECOMMENDS

THREE TO TRY…
Here’s three lovely products Coast
loves this month for life on the beach:

FULL OF EASTERN PROMISE
Those familiar with the beautiful coastal
town of North Berwick in East Lothian,
otherwise known as the Biarritz of the
North, may also know the area is the
beating heart of the beautiful Scottish
east coast virtually all-year round,
popular in equal measure with golfers,
families, sailors and staycationers in
general.
That makes the coastline itself a busy
spot and accommodation options are at
a premium, so it is useful to know about
hidden gems such as Gilmerton House,
a stunning Georgian mansion, offering
ultimate privacy, perfect for larger
families or groups of golfers visiting
Scotland’s Golf Coast as it is situated

only a couple of miles from the shore.
It is the ideal base for enjoying all that
East Lothian’s coastline has to offer and
has recently expanded its offering with
a divine new event space, The Laundry
House, perfect for celebrations and
family gatherings.
Gilmerton House held its first ‘popup’ “Rooms by Gilmerton House” when
it transformed from an exclusive-use to
property and opened its doors to guests
who might not usually get the chance
to stay on the estate. One of the ten
luxury bedrooms was available to book
in August for £200 to £300 a night and
may be popping up again soon. Check
details here: gilmertonhouse.com

STAY IN A COASTAL GEM
Woodbine is a charming cottage dating back
to the 1800s, set in an enviable position
overlooking the sea in the heart of historic
Sandsend, a coastal gem on the spectacular
North Yorkshire coast.
Arriving at the cottage is a real treat…it’s
just steps from the expansive sandy beach,
located on East Row, a pretty stone terrace
of old fisherman’s cottages.
This beautiful seaside escape sleeps four
guests across two bedrooms and is dogfriendly too. In our opinion, if you are looking
for a seaside escape in one of the best
locations on the Yorkshire coast, Woodbine
Cottage is the place to be!
• beautifulescapes.co.uk/property/
woodbine-cottage/

BEST FEET
FORWARD
Slipfree is the safe
solution to holiday
footwear. Thanks to
their ground-breaking
patented sole, Slipfree
footwear creates a
clever barefoot feel.
Kids can swim in them, and thanks
to the fast drying fabric, feet dry out
too. As well as super-fast drying
technology, the fabric is sun safe with
ultimate UPF 50+ sun protection. We
loved the amazing range of patterns
and colours too! slipfree.co.uk
SHIELDED AND
STYLISH
Outdoor clothing
specialist Gill
has introduced
a new collection
of performancedriven UV
protection gear for
outdoor enthusiasts. From hats and
sunglasses to shorts and lightweight
tees, this innovative collection looks
great. We were especially enamoured
with the UV Tec Tee Polo, which uses
an ultra-lightweight, quick-drying
technical fabric that actively wicks
moisture away from the skin. It also
has UV 50+ protection in the fabric!
gb.gillmarine.com
A RUM TO DO
Rum is the ultimate drink
to transport us to tropical
beaches and balmy sunsets.
Created by two friends who
shared a great love of music
and fine rum, 8Track is a
premium quality, spiced rum,
infused with Seville oranges,
vanilla, cloves, ginger and
cinnamon. 8Track brings
a taste of sunshine to party-goers
no matter what the weather brings!
8trackrum.com

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 6 5

With over 4,000 routes to choose
from, you’ll be sure to find the
perfect walk for you.

Coast is partnering with the Ramblers each month to promote

PHOTOS: THE RAMBLERS

coastal walking. In this month’s column, HANNAH WILCOXBROOKE, Paths to Wellbeing project manager, explains how a
pioneering project is making a big difference
aths are so much more than a
way to get from A to B. They
connect us with the natural
world, join communities together
and provide a living link to a
history embedded in our
landscapes. But across Wales, large
swathes of our path network are
neglected. In fact, we estimate that 50
per cent of our paths are inaccessible.

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So, two years ago, we set out
to change that. Through Paths to
Wellbeing, our Ramblers Cymru
flagship project, we’ve been working
in and alongside 18 communities
across Wales, helping them to take
ownership of their local path network
and embed walking at the very heart
of their communities. And we’ve seen
phenomenal success.

Working hand in hand with local
people, we’ve invested in upskilling,
equipping, supporting and leading over
1,600 local volunteers. And together,
we’ve installed over 200 new gates,
138 marker posts and over 1,800
bespoke route markers, all designed
by the community to help them access
nature on their doorstep.
And that’s not all. Working with our

coast WALKING
volunteers, we’ve also created new
walking routes across Wales, including
this stunning circular walk from
Penparcau, just outside Aberystwyth.
Starting at the Penparcau Hub,
home to the Penparcau Community
Forum, the route heads south towards
Cardigan. After entering Rhydyfelin,
you’ll turn right towards Morfa
Bychan, crossing the bridge over the
River Ystwyth, the river from which
Aberystwyth takes its name.
Turning right again towards Plas
Tanybwlch, you’ll pass under Coed Tany-castell, reputed to be the site of the
first Norman castle at Aberystwyth. At
the end of the lane, you’ll reach Tan Y
Bwlch beach, part of the Pen Dinas and
Tan-y-Bwlch nature reserve, and the
Welsh Coast Path.
Perched atop steep cliffs, the coast
path hugs the shoreline and offers
unspoiled views out across the Irish
Sea. Continuing on the coast path for a
while, you’ll pass Morfa Bychan holiday
park on your right and along a track
past a couple of farm holdings. Just
after the second, you’ll take a footpath
on your left and leave the coast path.
Crossing over patchwork fields and
over stiles, you’ll then drop down the
hill to join a tarmacked road for a little
while before rejoining another footpath
on your right. Coming to a three-way
junction, turn left onto the bridleway
which runs below the woodland.
Following the bridleway through

Volunteers are taking ownership
of their local path network.

farmland, you’ll eventually come
through a farmyard and to a surfaced
road. Turning right, you’ll follow this
road until a T-junction where you’ll
turn left. Curving down the hill, the
road passes St Llwchaiarn’s, a rebuilt
medieval church with an octagonal font
thought to date from the 1200s.
Further along the road, you’ll rejoin
the A487 through Rhydyfelin and
continue along the pavement back to
Penparcau Hub, your starting point.
• For full route instructions, visit:
pathstowellbeing.ramblers.org.uk/en/
routes/

You can filter walks
for accessibility
requirements.

The 145 routes we have created
for Paths to Wellbeing are just
one part of what we offer.
Ramblers Routes, our online
library, is jam-packed with
thousands of tried-and-tested
routes across England, Scotland
and Wales. And with over 4,000
routes to choose from, you’ll be
sure to find the perfect walk for
you.
Ranging from easy strolls to
challenging hikes, you can filter
for accessibility requirements,
total distance and by the facilities
available. And you don’t even
need to be a Ramblers member
to get started: you can sign up to
a free Ramblers web account to
see the details of all our walks
under three miles. Explore the
library here: ramblers.org.uk/
go-walking/routes

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coast WALKING

Looking for something closer to
home? Try out these three
alternatives
Dunwich, Suffolk
This circular walk takes you across
heather-dominated heathland,
accompanied by the sound of
breaking waves, to the village that
replaced what had been the capital
of East Anglia. The route then
returns via attractive mixed
woodland. tinyurl.com/ymzrzke2

Kynance Cove and Lizard
Point, Cornwall
A stunning circular visiting the
gorgeous Kynance Cove and
Lizard Point. The scenery, wildlife
and geology makes this route an
absolute joy. tinyurl.com/5xvfhcxt

NATURE TO THE FORE
The Penparcau route is just one of over
145 new routes we have developed
alongside our volunteers. Created with
families in mind, we have also highlighted
all the routes and areas that are
accessible for wheelchair and buggies,
ensuring everyone can enjoy the benefits
and beauty of being out in nature. And
every one of these routes, which have
already been explored over 140,000
times, is freely available to the public on
our dedicated microsite.
But we are not just focusing on the
path network. Together with 22 local
authorities, Wildlife Trust Wales and Coed
Cadw - the Woodland Trust in Wales
- we’ve been working to protect and

enhance the local environment, allowing
nature a chance to thrive.
From planting over 3,850 native trees
to installing over 200 new birdboxes, the
project aims to give local communities
a sense of ownership over not just
their path network, but the nature that
surrounds it too.
At its core, Paths to Wellbeing is a
project led by the community, for the
community. And as its success shows,
it’s a model that can be replicated around
Wales and beyond.
• To find out more about Paths to
Wellbeing, and to view their library of
routes, visit: pathstowellbeing.ramblers.
org.uk/en/

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

North Berwick, East Lothian
A beautiful and historically rich walk
around North Berwick, passing
through the town centre and along
the coast, offering stunning
scenery. tinyurl.com/3734fzwc

All ages are welcomed as
part of The Ramblers’ work.

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coast INTERVIEW

PHOTOGRAPHY: MAX WESTON

The creator of Wanderlust Life jewellery tells
LUCY JENNER-BROWN about her exciting new projects
on the coast and celebrating ten years in business
aving spent her
childhood growing up
in the sleepy coastal
town of Instow in
north Devon, Georgie
Roberts was keen to
see more of the world, spreading her
wings and setting off on adventures
when she was old enough.
In between her travel experiences,
Georgie found herself working in a
variety of roles from opening galleries
to running yoga retreats, through to
working for creative agencies - all
useful experience for starting her
own business. Her love of travel and
exploration eventually led Georgie back
to her home patch and creating her
own brand, Wanderlust Life Jewellery.
Georgie reveals: “Experiencing an
eclectic range of job roles, I always
knew that I wanted to be at the helm of
my own ship, so to speak. I was lucky
enough to spend the winters traveling
abroad and it was actually whilst
doodling on a plane that the idea for
Wanderlust Life was born. I just wrote
down a list of all the things I loved, things
that light me up - and went from there!”
From this spark of an idea to her
jewellery now being sold globally,
Georgie lives and works in Braunton,
north Devon, with her partner Scott.
“Scott was the carpenter on the
renovation of my cottage and we met
at the bottom of the stairs. I was at the
house everyday working on

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 6 9

PHOTOGRAPHY: MAX WESTON; LOUISE ROBERTSON;
STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHY; KATHLEEN SPEARS

coast INTERVIEW

the project, and he was there too. We drank a lot
of coffee together, and the rest is history,” adds
Georgie.
“Scott and I live in a small cottage, just a few
steps away from the Wanderlust Life Studio and
luckily only a five-minute drive to the beach.
Despite being a relatively remote area to live in, I
love how wild and rugged the coast is here.
“We also have a very tight knit network of
people I’ve known for over 20 years which is what
brought me back to Devon. You can be in the
most amazing place in the world, but I think it’s the
community and connection that brings a place to
life and makes it super special.”
Not a couple to sit still, during lockdown,
Georgie and Scott bought and redeveloped
a holiday home in Braunton before turning
their attention to their most recent project, the
renovation of a 32ft sailing boat which is docked in
Mylor, Cornwall.
Georgie adds: “In the summer, we spend a lot
of our time between Braunton and in Cornwall
with the boat. She is kind of our second home,
bobbing on the sea!
“Scott is super passionate about sailing and

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PREVIOUS PAGE
Georgie Georgie with
gemstones and their
signature fine cord
necklaces.
ABOVE CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT Georgie
in the entrance of the
Wanderlust Life shop
and studio; A
selection of pendant
necklaces in the
Wanderlust Life shop
and studio; The handmade element to her
jewellery is really
important to Georgie;
The bestselling
mother of pearl
gemstone fine cord
necklace.

being around the water. I have always lived by the
sea, and can’t imagine being away from the coast
- so if there’s an opportunity, we’ll be on the water
in some form!”
Georgie’s work life keeps her equally engaged,
with the steady growth of her jewellery brand
which this year is celebrating its tenth anniversary.
Wanderlust Life was born in 2013 after Georgie
returned from a winter travelling in Mexico. The
seed of an idea sewn on a long plane journey soon
became a fledging business when Georgie returned
to Devon, based from her spare bedroom.
As the business grew, so did the team. With
four people working from Georgie’s home she
soon realised more space was needed, leading to
the opening of the shop and studio in Braunton in
2018. The business is now made up of a closeknit team of 15 designers, makers, sales support
and marketeers with Georgie at the helm.
“Being a small business owner is all about
having the right people around you,” adds
Georgie. “I’m extremely lucky to have a team
who are supportive and collaborative; every
single person plays a vital part in what we do from the drawing board to the maker’s bench to

coast INTERVIEW
the shop floor. Above everything else, we value
collaboration, authenticity, optimism, creativity,
balance and simplicity.”
Wanderlust Life is known for its stylishly
understated gold jewellery packed full of meaning.
Loved by the fashion press having appeared in
Vogue, Cosmopolitan and The Times amongst
many others, celebrity fans including Geri Halliwell
and Jodie Kidd.
“The handmade element to our jewellery is really
important to me, and at the very heart of what we
do,” enthuses Georgie. “It makes the individual
pieces unique. We love what we do and create
and I guess want to pass that good energy on
through our pieces.
“As we celebrate our tenth year, it’s amazing to
reflect on how much we have grown as a brand.
I’m so proud of my team for being a part of the
journey with me - I have a lot of crew who have
been with me since the beginning. Our online store
is flourishing, and the Braunton shop and studio is
in its fifth year.
“We love welcoming people through the door
as It’s such a privilege to be able to meet our
customers, to show them what we do and share
our part of the world with them.”

GEORGIE‘S PERFECT WEEKEND
IN THE BRAUNTON AREA

BELOW CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP The
Wanderlust Life team
enjoying a pre-work
sea dip at Baggy
Point, Croyde;
Georgie and Scott on
Saunton beach;
Georgie holding her
jewellery collections
in the Wanderlust Life
shop and studio.

Start with a coffee and doughnut at
Heartbreak Hotel in Braunton, just a short
stroll away from the Wanderlust Life store.
(heartbreakhotelcoffee.com)
Go for a wild swim at Broadsands,
Watermouth - an out of the way swim
spot accessed via 200 steps or rent a
kayak. (activeescape.co.uk)
Book in some healthy hedonism at the
stunning Source Spa with views over the
dunes, part of the Saunton Sands Hotel.
(sauntonsands.co.uk)
Lynton Cinema is an independent and
‘intimate modern picture palace’, showing
films seven days a week. (lyntoncinema.
co.uk)
Take a boat trip and visit two atmospheric
villages on the Appledore to Instow ferry,
running from April to October and tide
dependent. (appledoreinstowferry.com)

1
2
3
4
5

With the studio and shop perched between the
estuary and golden beaches of Saunton and Croyde,
coastal living is an integral part of the Wanderlust Life
culture, with the surroundings not only influencing
designs, but also inspiring how they work as a team.
“A usual day sees me heading down to our studio
by the river, to join the team,” explains Georgie. “We
have a coffee, crack on the tunes and get the day
started. Our studio is the home to our designers
and makers; so we’ll be shaping up new collections,
getting creative and planning product rollouts - there
is never a slow day”.
Reflecting on where she finds herself now,
Georgie - who often leads the team in a sea swim
to start or end the day or a group dinner on the
beach – concludes: “Living by the coast feels like
second nature, but it’s also a privilege that I am
really very grateful for.
“There’s something very magical about being
able to visit the sea every day; whether it’s to
get some space on an empty open beach in
the winter, wash the day away with a sea dip or
bodyboard, or to meet up with friends to watch
the sun go down after a busy day in the studio.”
• wanderlustlife.co.uk

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CO AST 7 1

coast PROMOTION

VISIT NORFOLK AND
SANDRINGHAM WITH
LUCY WORSLEY
Join the acclaimed historian at the Royal Family’s
Norfolk retreat, plus enjoy wonderful scenic
journeys by rail and paddle steamer

PHOTOGRAPHY TRIPSMITHS

F

amous for its wide skies, glorious
coastline, serene rivers and
crimson-red poppy fields, Norfolk
is the perfect place to stop and enjoy
the view. It’s somewhere life moves at a
slower pace: even the Royal Family
comes here to unwind.
Add in the nostalgic pleasure of
travelling along heritage railways and
you have all ingredients for an
unforgettable trip. There are no fewer
than three different railway journeys and
a cruise on a paddle steamer included
on this wonderful short break, with
ample time to explore delightful Norfolk.
However, what turns this five-day tour
from special to extraordinary is the
chance to meet and hear from the
brilliant historian Lucy Worsley.
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Fascinating, incisive and always
entertaining, Lucy will give an exclusive
talk about ‘Sandringham and the
Modern Monarchy’, before joining a visit
to the Royal Family’s country retreat.

REASONS TO BOOK

Explore the formal gardens, vintage
vehicles and exotic curios of
Sandringham, the Royal Family’s
country retreat, with insights from Lucy
Worsley.

EXPLORE PRETTY TOWNS
AND VILLAGES

You’ll have plenty of time to see some of
Norfolk’s best loved destinations,
including Wroxham, Horning and
Cromer.

THREE HISTORIC RAIL TRIPS

Admire Norfolk’s unspoilt countryside
and scenic coastline on the Bure
Valley Railway, the Bittern Line and the
North Norfolk Railway.

PADDLE BOAT CRUISE
ON THE BROADS

Relax as you follow the course of the
river Bure, passing thatched cottages
and windmills and spotting water birds
in the Norfolk reed beds.

TALK AND Q&A WITH LUCY
WORSLEY

The celebrated historian will talk about
Sandringham and the Modern
Monarchy, followed by a chance to
ask her your burning questions.

coast PROMOTION

LEFT Relax as you cruise on the Norfolk Broads. LEFT
INSERT The acclaimed historian Lucy Worsley will provide
expert insight on the trip.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Sandringham is the Royal
Family’s country retreat; Explore the formal gardens of the
home; Discover pretty villages; You’ll have plenty of time
to see some of Norfolk’s best loved destinations, including
Cromer; Take a trip on the wonderful Bure Valley Railway.

YOUR ITINERARY

DAY 1 Arrive in Norfolk DAY 2 Bure
Valley Railway, Mississippi Paddle
Boat and Norwich DAY 3 The Poppy
Line, Sheringham, Cromer and The
Bittern Line, DAY 4 Sandringham with
Dr Lucy Worsley DAY 5 Depart

YOU WILL GET THE CHANCE
TO…

Spend four nights at Sprowston Manor
Golf, Hotel and Country Club on a halfboard basis.
Enjoy a talk and Q&A and

Sandringham visit with Lucy Worsley.
Take steam train journeys on the Bure
Valley Railway and the Poppy Line.
Journey aboard the Bittern Line.
Cruise on The Broads aboard the
Southern Comfort Mississippi Paddle
Boat.
Also included: coach transfers for
excursions and services of an
experienced tour manager.

HOW TO BOOK

PRICE: From £895pp*
DATES April 15-19, May 6-10,

September 2-6 & 9-13, 2024
TO BOOK, CALL 03301 732742,
quoting COAST SANDRINGHAM
VISIT or visit coast.tripsmiths.com/
sandringham for more details and to
see the full itinerary
„ OUR TRAVEL PARTNER TS
Tours is acting as agent for
Shearings Travel Limited. TS Tours
Ltd specialises in creating
bespoke tours, cruises and rail
journeys in the company of
experts.

T&Cs: * From price based on two sharing, on 15 April 2024 departure. Subject to availability. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change.
Deposit required. Single supplement: £180. Please note: we cannot guarantee that all rail journeys will be steam hauled. In the case of unforeseen circumstances,
expert(s) may be substituted, and any expert-led events and the overall itinerary may be subject to change. Expert(s) will not join you for your full trip duration unless
otherwise stated. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used may not reflect your actual tour experience. This holiday may
be sold through other selected brands. Tour is operated by TS Tours Ltd acting as agent for Shearings Travel Limited. Bookings conditions of both companies apply.

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 7 3

Talland Bay, Cornwall
£450,000
Large detached 3 bed holiday home in luxury gated development
a short distance from the beach & SW Coast Path. Spacious double
height living area ,large sun terrace with hot tub. Use of pool, sauna,
gym and with on site management.

Whitsand Bay, Cornwall
£650,000
^ƚƵŶŶŝŶŐĚĞƚĂĐŚĞĚϮďĞĚƌŽŽŵƉƌŽƉĞƌƚLJƉĞƌĐŚĞĚŽŶƚŚĞĐůŝīƐ
overlooking the Bay. With amazing sea views and 2 private
parking spaces this is the perfect coastal get away and ideal
as a second home or investment.

One client commented: “If only all estate agents were even close to Miles, Caroline and the team! We sold
ŽƵƌŚŽƵƐĞǁŝƚŚŚĂƌƚƐĞĚŐĞĂƚĂǀĞƌLJǀŽůĂƟůĞƟŵĞŝŶƚŚĞŵĂƌŬĞƚďƵƚƚŚĞĐĂůŵĂŶĚƉƌŽĨĞƐƐŝŽŶĂůĂƉƉƌŽĂĐŚ
ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚŽƵƚƚŚĞƉƌŽĐĞƐƐǁĂƐǀĞƌLJƌĞĂƐƐƵƌŝŶŐ͘dŚĂŶŬLJŽƵƐŽŵƵĐŚĨŽƌĂůůƚŚĂƚLJŽƵŚĂǀĞĚŽŶĞ͘͟
01803 505115
www.chartsedge.co.uk
Anstey House
Jubilee Road, Totnes TQ9 5BW

TIMELESS CLOTHING & EQUIPMENT TO CARRY YOU THROUGH THE SEASONS
carriercompany.co.uk
always made in the uk

coast PROPERTY
1 ‘This is a
fantastic house,
affording super
views across
Keyhaven River
to the Solent’

1

10 fabulous
COASTAL HOMES
to buy
From cute cottages by Scottish seas to amazing homes
with views over bays, here is this month’s round-up of
cracking coastal properties on sale now
c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 7 5

Are you looking for a coastal property?
Buying a property is much more than just finding a house. It’s about finding a place to call home.
We solely represent your buying interests, relieve you of paperwork, fruitless viewing trips and handle
complex, sensitive negotiations to your advantage.
We’ll give certainty about buying the right property, in the right location and the right price.

“It ’s all about coming home”
LONDON | COUNTRY | WATERSIDE
020 8938 3836 | www.recoco.co.uk

coast PROPERTY

2

1

1

LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE
OFFERS IN THE REGION OF £7,850,000
This is a fantastic house, affording super views
across Keyhaven River towards the Solent, Hurst
Castle and the Isle of Wight. The house itself has
been finished to take full advantage of its unrivalled
position, with seven bedrooms and spacious
reception rooms including a kitchen/dining/family
room, drawing room and sitting room.
Outside, the property enjoys approximately two
acres of beautiful gardens and grounds with an
impressive leisure complex featuring an indoor
pool and gym, and two separate cottages which
enjoy their own private gardens. Caldwells (01590
675875, caldwells.uk.com/property-details/
client_14/100839004235)

2

CLEY, NORFOLK
OFFERS OVER £2,000,000
Umgemi is a rare and characterful five-bedroom
house with spectacular views across the Cley
marshes, sitting within over half an acre of southfacing landscaped walled gardens.
Located in the desirable coastal village of
Cley-next-the-Sea, it is situated within an Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty, a short stroll from the
beach. The house features classic Dutch gables that
are integral to Cley, and has uninterrupted views over
the reedbeds and marshland to the sea.
Internally the house continues to surprise. The
staircase is a feat of high-quality craftsmanship, and
the interior features an eclectic mix of colour, design
and architecture that brings to mind the creatives of
the Bloomsbury Group and Arts & Crafts movement.

3
Large windows capture the very best views of the
marsh, and the sea also fills the house with light from
the south, connecting you to the lovely garden and
the seaside from within the house. Jackson-Stops
Burnham Market (01328 801333, jackson-stops.
co.uk/properties/17388760/sales/burnham-market)

3

OBAN, SCOTLAND
OFFERS OVER £695,000
This is a very elegant double bay front property
with fabulous views over Loch Etive. It’s currently
operating as a small guest house but would make a
great family home with its extensive accommodation.
This includes a drawing room, sitting room, dining
room, kitchen, utility room, four bedrooms with ensuites, a further two bedrooms, study and shower
room. It features established garden grounds and
there’s a home office/study, as well as a garage.
Dawsons (01631 563901, dawsonsestateagents.
co.uk)

4

PORT NAVAS, CORNWALL
GUIDE PRICE £1,150,000
This attractive and contemporary four-bedroom
home is set close to the sailing waters of the
Helford River, and offers spacious and flexible
accommodation, all finished to a high standard

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 7 7

Billingham Manor Farm
BILLINGHAM
A unique and historic estate situated
in the hamlet of Billingham, including a
Grade II* listed Manor House, separate
detached cottage, traditional & modern
farm buildings and 130 acres (52 ha) of
arable, pasture and woodland.
Available as a whole or in three separate
lots.
Lot 1
Manor House, Cottage, Farm Buildings
and 18.98 acres of pastureland/woodland
£1,950,000
Lot 2
Farm Buildings and Arable Land
extending to 56.84 acres
£650,000
Lot 3
Arable, Pastureland and Woodland of
49.38 acres
£400,000

THE WHOLE: £3,000,000
EPC: Manor (N/A) Cottage (E)
Council Tax Band: Manor (C) Cottage (C)
Tenure: Freehold

www .bcm.co.uk

iow@bcm.co.uk

@BCM_LLP

01983 828 805

coast PROPERTY

4

5

6

with a beautiful landscaped private garden.
The main reception areas are on the first
floor; which provides both lovely views to the
countryside to the front and also direct access into
the beautiful garden to the rear. The generously
proportioned open plan kitchen and dining area
captures abundant natural light through expansive
floor-to-ceiling windows.
The sitting room benefits from a stylish wood
burning stove and connects seamlessly to the
garden room, which features a roof lantern and bifolding doors and flows out into the garden.
To one side is the guest bedroom suite which
also benefits from direct access to the garden
through patio doors. The second floor houses
the master bedroom suite and features a vaulted
ceiling and floor-to-ceiling windows that provide
sweeping views of the surrounding valley. Rohrs
& Rowe (01872, 306360, rohrsandrowe.co.uk/
property-cornwall/32415070/)

5

CAMBER, EAST SUSSEX
£1,750,000
A rare opportunity to acquire a beachfront property
occupying a slightly elevated position on Camber
Sands, one of the best known beaches on the

4 ‘This
attractive and
contemporary
four-bedroom
home is set
close to the
sailing waters
of the Helford
River’

7

south coast. This is a detached, four-bedroom
beach house with open plan living accommodation,
opening directly onto Camber Sands and enjoying
widespread sea views across Rye Bay. The house
is currently run as a successful holiday let. The
property also benefits from a double garage/games
room, and additional three-storey building currently a
garage and store. (Phillips & Stubbs (01797 227338,
phillipsandstubbs.co.uk)

6

GALMPTON, DEVON
£450,000
The Green is a charming, two-bedroom cottage less
than ten minutes’ walk from the stunning beaches of
Hope Cove and the South West Coast Path, nestled
in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in the
South Hams.
Lovingly renovated by the current owners,
the property has underfloor heating throughout
downstairs, an eco woodburner and exquisite
kitchen with Corian worktops. The garden has a
bespoke, hand-built office made by a local carpenter
with reclaimed materials. It would make a wonderful
family home or coastal bolthole. Kingsbridge Estate
Agents (01548 856685; kingsbridgeestateagents.
co.uk/properties/17486168/sales)

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 7 9

coast PROPERTY
9

8

7

DEAL, KENT
GUIDE PRICE £625,000
The property is a hidden gem situated in the heart
of the Conservation Area and close to the beach.
Golden Cottage is a lovely, Grade II listed cottage,
believed to have formerly been the kitchens and
servant quarters for a neighbouring property.
The cottage has now been sympathetically and
attractively modernised and improved to now offer
lovely light and versatile accommodation over two
floors, with the additional benefit of a very pretty
private courtyard. Bright & Bright (01304 374071,
brightandbright.co.uk/property-details/BRB230189/
kent/deal/golden-street)

(01728 454505, bedfords.co.uk/cgi-bin/propertiesfor-sale/summary-details.pl?propID=38702_
ALD210093)

9

NEW POLZEATH, CORNWALL
GUIDE PRICE £895,000
The last remaining beachfront property at Polzeath
Beach House offers a contemporary three-bed
apartment with stunning 180-degree views across
Polzeath beach and out to sea.
Situated on the first floor, Apartment 04 Daymer
presents a perfect turnkey investment opportunity
with all contents and holiday let bookings
included. John Bray & Partners (01208 862601,
johnbrayestates.co.uk)

8

ALDEBURGH, SUFFOLK
£1,950,000
This is a superb Grade II listed, mid-19th century
townhouse in a wonderful position overlooking
Aldeburgh’s beach and a few minutes’ walk from the
excellent shops and restaurants.
The flexible accommodation includes many period
features and has been beautifully upgraded by the
current owners. It is arranged over three floors and
includes a hall, garden room, morning room, kitchen/
dining room, first floor drawing room with balcony
overlooking the sea, sitting room with fabulous roof
terrace and staircase down to the courtyard, and five
bedrooms. Outside there is a courtyard garden and
large garage, and ample storage space. Bedfords

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10

10
If you’d like to
advertise your
property for
sale in coast,
contact Zara
Mehmet on
07415 325673
or email
zara@talkmedia.uk

AMBLE, NORTHUMBERLAND
£695,000
This remarkable property is situated directly on the
coastline on the outskirts of the popular town of
Amble. Harbour Sands forms part of Signal Cottage,
a development comprising three individual bespoke
luxury holiday cottages built in 2020. Each benefits
from glorious coastal views.
Harbour Sands is currently run as a successful
holiday let generating a fantastic income but
with generous room to grow this further. Bradley
Hall Alnwick (01665 605 605, bradleyhall.co.uk/
residential-properties/harbour-sands-lighthouseview/)

BOX COTTAGE SOUTHDOWN CHALE ISLE OF WIGHT
A recently renovated detached cottage nestling in an elevated position in the hillside with panoramic views along the
SW coast towards the Needles. The ground floor consists of a cosy living room, open plan kitchen/breakfast room,
dining room, utility room /WC, workshop and downstairs bedroom or additional living room. First floor 3 bedrooms
with large en-suite bathroom plus separate shower room.

Offers over £795,000 book or by phone through Purplebricks IOW tel 0800 810 8008

FREEHOLD & FULLY RESIDENTIAL WATERFRONT CHALET
Morlais, Poppit Sands, St Dogmaels, Pembrokeshire, SA43 3LN
For sale by online auction 27th September 2023 - Guide Price £280,000 - £300,00

Key features:
Waterfront coastal retreat with spectacular views
Direct access onto the sandy beach of Poppit Sands
2 bedroomed detached cottage
Idyllic ‘working from home’ retreat or holiday home
Garden and parking
This waterfront two-bedroomed chalet is set in a most
spectacular coastal position with breath-taking views
over Cardigan Bay. Take 20 steps from the front door
and you are on the glorious sandy beach of Poppit
Sands in Pembrokeshire.
Morlais is a freehold and fully residential property
and is one of only 5 cottages along this private track,
making it a most exceptional and tranquil location on
the very edge of the beautiful Welsh Pembrokeshire
Coast National Park.
The property would make an idyllic ‘working from
home’ retreat, a superb holiday getaway or a main
home.
This is a once in a lifetime opportunity - the stunning
views and superb location can only be fully
appreciated when viewing in person.

Email: cardigan@johnfrancis.co.uk Tel: 01239 612080

Green Wood
YARMOUTH

A spectacular coastal home, recently
modernised to a high specification, in a
secluded position enjoying magnificent
Solent Views. The property comprises
a 6500 square foot house, set over
four floors including a potential selfcontained annexe, extensive grounds
including a woodland area with views
over the Solent, in all, extending to
5.68 acres (2.29ha).

GUIDE PRICE: £2,150,000
EPC: D
Council Tax Band: G
Tenure: Freehold

T: 01983 828 805

www .bcm.co.uk

iow@bcm.co.uk

E: iow@bcm.co.uk

@BCM_LLP

01983 828 805

BCM, Red Barn, Cheeks Farm, Merstone Lane, Merstone, Isle of Wight PO30 3DE

coast PROPERTY

MOVE TO

THE ISLE OF WIGHT
Beloved as a holiday destination by the Victorians,
the Isle of Wight boasts miles of coastline, rich
history, vibrant festivals, and a tranquil escape
surrounded by natural beauty
WORDS AMBER BEARD

CAN YOU
AFFORD,8I88T?

COWES £353
,310
EAST COWES £255
,135
82
£3
FRESHWATER
04
SEAVIEW £539,3
76
YARMOUTH £535,7ICES,
USE PR
*AVERAGE SOLD HO FROM
PAST 12 MONTHS
23)
RIGHTMOVE (JULY 20

c oa stmagaz ine .co.uk

CO AST 8 3

coast PROPERTY

‘One of the most appealing aspects of moving
here is the opportunity to embrace a more
relaxed lifestyle. It offers a quiet escape from
fast-paced cities, shorter commutes, a slower
rhythm, and a breath of fresh air’

84 COA ST

c oast magazi ne.co.uk

coast PROPERTY

PREVIOUS PAGE Founded in 1815, the Royal Yacht Squadron in Cowes is one of the most prestigious and exclusive yacht clubs in the world; ABOVE
LEFT One of the most iconic views of the Isle of Wight - The Needles; ABOVE RIGHT The hotly contested Round the Island Race.

PHOTGRAPHS: VISIT ISLE OF WIGHT

I

f you’re seeking a change of pace
and a slice of idyllic island life, then
the Isle of Wight is the perfect
destination, offering a myriad of
reasons to entice individuals and
families to make it their home. From
stunning natural landscapes and a
strong sense of community to a thriving
arts scene and a more relaxed lifestyle,
it’s the ideal choice for those
considering a change of pace.
The island is one of the UK’s seven
UNESCO-designated biosphere
reserves and is renowned for its
breathtaking natural beauty with miles
of picturesque coastline, rolling hills,
and lush countryside, providing an
abundance of outdoor opportunities.
Imagine coastal walks along dramatic
cliffs, leisurely beach strolls, surrounded
by nature, embracing an active and
healthy lifestyle.
Geographically there is a definite east/
west divide with the wilder west coast
attracting kite surfers and dinosaur
hunters and the east boasting sandy
beaches and calmer shallow waters for
sea swimming.
Driving clockwise around the island
from Ryde with the world’s oldest
seaside pleasure pier, you can follow a
mostly coastal route via Sandown and
Shanklin to Ventnor on the south coast.
Visited by the Victorians as a favourite
holiday destination, the town houses
Ventnor Botanic Garden which has its

own microclimate and grows species
from around the globe.
Travelling up the other west coast
side passing the Needles and Alum Bay
there are incredible views across the
sea particularly if you’re having 18 holes
at Freshwater Golf Club. At the north of
the island, Cowes, and East Cowes are
on and off-island transport hubs and
have supermarkets and independent
cafes, shops, and restaurants to enjoy.
But one of the most appealing
aspects of moving here is the
opportunity to embrace a more relaxed
lifestyle. It offers a quiet escape from
fast-paced cities, shorter commutes, a
slower rhythm, and a breath of fresh air.

there are still plots of land, farms, and
barns for building or refurbishment
available all around the island.

HOW MUCH
According to Rightmove the majority
of property sales on the Isle of Wight
during the last year were detached
properties, selling for an average price
of £588,422. Semi-detached properties
sold for an average of £338,713, with
terraced properties fetching £274,446.
At the upper end for coastal
properties, there are houses for sale with
price tags of £2.5m in Cowes and £1.6m
in Seaview, and at the lower, you could
bag a holiday bungalow within a twominute walk of the beach for £190,000.

WHERE TO BUY
The Isle of Wight has a varied and
eclectic property market, catering to a
wide range of preferences and you’ll find
an assortment of homes, from traditional
flats and houses to extraordinary
waterfront residences for sale.
Much beloved by second
homeowners and sailors, the towns of
Yarmouth, Cowes, and Seaview are a
magnet for those looking for a coastal
retreat. Many properties in these towns
offer stunning sea views and mooring
opportunities nearby.
Or if a village is more your style, then
Brighstone, Calbourne, and Newbridge
have listed manor houses, thatched
cottages, and converted barns and

TRAVEL LINKS
Whether you choose to drive or prefer
the convenience of rail travel, reaching
the Isle of Wight is easy thanks to its
accessible transport links. For those
travelling by car, motorways provide
straightforward routes to the ferry ports
in Southampton, Portsmouth, and
Lymington.
Alternatively, if you opt for rail travel,
convenient train services leave London
Waterloo, with stops in Southampton,
Portsmouth, and Southsea. This allows
you to easily connect to the Red Jet,
catamaran, or hovercraft.
Once you’re on the island, you
can catch the train up the

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coast PROPERTY

ABOVE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT TThe Isle of Wight Festival attracts many thousands of people; Ventnor Botanic Garden has its own microclimate and
grows species from around the globe; Surfing at Compton Bay.

esplanade at Ryde and on to Sandown
and Shanklin or jump on a Southern
Vectis bus from any ferry port to the
county town of Newport and beyond.
The nearest airport is Southampton.

SCHOOLS
For families considering a move, the
island has excellent educational facilities
and a family-friendly environment and
is home to a range of primary and
secondary schools, including both state
and independent options, providing
quality education for children of all
ages. The Isle of Wight College also
offers sixth form and further education
and specialises in apprenticeships and
business courses.

REALITY CHECK

PHOTGRAPHS: VISIT ISLE OF WIGHT

Travelling on and off the Isle of Wight
can be expensive, especially in high
season, but discounts and vouchers
are available to residents from the ferry
companies to lessen the blow. For
commuters, the weather can sometimes
disrupt travel on the Red Jet and
hovercraft, but the car ferries tend to
run whatever the weather.

TIME OUT
Despite its small size, the Isle of Wight
has a vibrant arts and cultural scene.
From art galleries and theatres to music
festivals and literary events, there is a
rich tapestry of creative expression to
discover. The island’s annual festivals,
like the Isle of Wight Festival and
Ventnor Fringe, attract talent from

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around the world, adding a unique
dimension to the local culture.
History buffs will find themselves
enthralled by the Isle of Wight’s rich
past at Carisbrooke Castle, where King
Charles I was once imprisoned, and
there are summer shows held within its
beautifully preserved fortifications. One
of the island’s most visited attractions
is Osborne House, Queen Victoria’s
beloved summer residence, where you
can wander through its grand rooms
and stunning gardens before having an
ice cream on the private beach.
There’s also plenty to do for kids from
the UK’s oldest theme park at Blackgang
Chine, Robin Hill Country Park, and
Tapnell Park Farm with its animals and
aquapark, to a simple bucket and spade
weekend on one of the Island’s sandy
beaches at Ryde or Sandown.
For sailors, there are festivals and
regattas throughout the year with
Cowes Week in August being the
highlight attracting competitors from
far and near, as well as the legendary
Round the Island Race which is hotly
contested.
The food scene on the island has
grown exponentially over the past years
and with locally produced gin, wine,
meat, cheese, bread, and everything in
between available, you’ve got all the
essentials covered. From charming
seaside cafes serving freshly caught
seafood to trendy bistros showcasing
innovative modern cuisine, the island’s
gastronomic offerings are as diverse as
they are delicious.

Try before you buy
HAROLD
HOUSE
A beautifully
restored
gentleman’s
townhouse in
the heart of
old Cowes
dating from
the late
1700s. Within
a stone’s throw of restaurants,
bars, and independent shops it’s
a perfect weekend bolthole, or
take advantage of wine-tasting,
private chef, and local spa
services for a real treat. Weekends
from £970. luxurycottages.com
PINKMEAD
ESTATE
Bag yourself
an estate for
the weekend
and immerse
yourself in
local wildlife, walks, and a
luxurious residence to relax in. A
24 acre dog friendly estate
located in the heart of the Island
with unparalleled riverfront views,
every detail has been taken care
of from hi-tech interiors to outdoor
fire pit experiences From £3250
per week. pinkmeadestate.co.uk

coast PROPERTY

WHAT YOU CAN GET FOR YOUR MONEY
Here are some of our favourite Isle of Wight properties for sale

SEAVIEW (£1,050,000)
Perfectly situated in the centre of the delightful village of Seaview,
Wickens has glorious sea views and is only a short walk to the
beach. It provides refined accommodation with a charming double
bay front elevation, and sunny and attractive gardens. spencewillard.
co.uk

YARMOUTH (£2,150,000)
A spectacular coastal home, recently modernised to a high
specification, in a secluded position enjoying magnificent Solent
views. The property comprises a 6,500 sq ft house, set over four
floors, including a self-contained annexe, plus extensive grounds
including a woodland area. bcm.co.uk

WYATTS LANE, COWES (£350,000)
This property requires some renovation and modernisation
throughout however its location is incredibly sought after, it is
situated on the outskirts of Cowes, the sailing capital of the Island,
and would make a very good holiday home for those that want to
experience the finer things that the Island has to offer.
redsquirrelpropertyshop.co.uk/properties-for-sale

BEMBRIDGE (£275,000,000)
Lavender House is a stunning, modernised property in a coastal
village. The property, built to provide high quality accommodation,
comprises a detached family home set across four floors including a
heated outdoor swimming pool, luxurious pool complex/selfcontained ancillary accommodation and large landscaped garden,
set within a plot extending to just under ¾ of an acre. bcm.co.uk

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Bonchurch £1,775,000

Fine Coastal & Country Property on the Isle of Wight

Calbourne £2,275,000

Ryde £1,795,000

With 57 miles of glorious coastline, let us help you find the perfect property to enjoy it from
COWES | YARMOUTH | BEMBRIDGE | FRESHWATER | LONDON
01983 200880

HELLO@SPENCEWILLARD.CO.UK

Wootton Bridge £2,250,000

Brighstone £1,500,000

Niton Undercliff £600,000

Bonchurch £450,000
SPENCEWILLARD.CO.UK

Norton Green £425,000

Shanklin Prices From £450,000
@s p e n ce w i llar d iw

The existing stone ruin was
taken down and rebuilt to
the same proportions.

coast DREAM HOME

PHOTOGRAPHY: PIERCE SCOURFIELD

It’s an award-winning example of rural housing at its best.
But this simple larch-clad and stone building on the north
west coast of Scotland is also a place to call home.
CHRISSY HARRIS finds out more
hris Johnson is sitting
in her open-plan living
room, talking about a
30-year career that has
taken her to some of
the world’s most
unstable regions. She has just returned
from a stint in Yemen’s third city, Taiz,
working with a global organisation to try
to support long-term economic
recovery in this war-torn area. Before
that, Chris spent nine years in Sudan
and eight years in Afghanistan.
If ever there was a moment not to
mention cushions, this was it. But,
somehow, I manage it.
“Yes, I’ve got some lovely cushions
with Afghan embroidery,” says Chris.
“I’ve also got a few really nice old rugs,
collected from Afghanistan, a comfy
sofa and an old chaise longue which I
picked up from a tiny little antique shop
in Kinlochewe.”
Many different worlds collide in the
interior of this beautiful house, high in
the hills of north west Scotland, which
is why we’re discussing soft furnishings
and a life spent working in some
amazing places.
“I’ve always been fairly peripatetic in
where I’ve lived but I’d often said that
at some point, I would come up to the
north west of Scotland,” says Yorkshireborn Chris, explaining how she’s ended
up here, in a cleverly reimagined stone
croft house in Diabaig, Wester Ross.
“It’s partly the physical landscape, the

mountains and the sea,” she continues.
“Partly cultural because I think Scotland
has a very different culture from England
and partly political. I might not know
where home is but I’m a northerner. So
it’s an amalgam of all of those things,
really.”
Chris was working in Sudan when
she first saw the picture online of a little,
windswept barn on the shoulder of the
hillside in Diabaig.
She had been looking ‘for ages’ for
either land or a building with renovation
potential along this stretch of coast

before she found the perfect project.
“I went and had a look and thought
yes,” says Chris. She goes on to
describe the dark, wet November day
in 2018 when she first went to visit the
stone building (which had two sheep
curled up in the corner at one end). “It
was beautiful,” she adds. “I put in an
offer and that was the beginning of the
story.”
Chris knew she wanted to keep the
little barn in some form.
“It was iconic,” she says. “And I knew
I wanted something that was

Chris Johnson has chosen just a
few, carefully curated key pieces
to complement the simple
beauty of her surroundings.

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coast DREAM HOME
Chris Johnson knew she
wanted to keep the little
barn in some form.

LIFE IN DIABAIG
Chris says she has well and truly
settled into life in this Highlands
township.
“It’s a lovely community to live
in,” she says. “I always knew
Diabaig was beautiful, but you
never know until you get here who
you’re going to live amongst and
it’s a really nice, very mixed
community. The people are very
welcoming.”

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fairly simple – I didn’t want a great big
house. And I knew I wanted something
light-filled and which sat gently in the
landscape, as though it belonged there.”
So far, so logical. Luckily, architect Neil
Stephen at Dualchas Architects agreed.
Chris had commissioned the Skyebased firm to help her realise her simple
but effective plan for this unique location.
Together they settled on keeping
the form of the original stone building
but then adding another, larch-clad
mirror image, connected by a glass link
corridor.
“That was kind of the defining vision

but how we realised it was much more
of a process of discussion,” says Chris,
adding that this was something she very
much enjoyed. “That was one of the
really nice things about it, the fact that
we all worked so well together.”
There were, of course, challenges
befitting a complex project in such a
rural location, including getting the space
to work, making it all fit together – and
the presence of a family of barn owls.
The whole two-year project had to
be paused for three months when the
protected birds were spotted flying
in and out of the barn,

coast DREAM HOME
Simplicity is key
in the design.

The original
stone building is
connected to a
new one by a
glass link
corridor.

Many different worlds
collide in the interior of
this beautiful house.

The architects have
melded old and new
in the design.

The house is a little
stone and wood-clad
haven in the Highlands.

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The view of the landscape
from the living room.

Relax and enjoy
the views.

‘I knew I wanted something
that was fairly simple – I didn’t
want a great big house.
And I knew I wanted something
light-filled and which sat gently
in the landscape, as though it
belonged there’

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coast DREAM HOME

presumably to a nest of young (a new
home for the owls was created in part of
the roof space of the stone building).
A global pandemic didn’t help, either.
It made travel to and from the site
difficult for Chris and she wasn’t able
to meet suppliers or talk to the kitchen
fitters.
“It was all a bit of an act of faith, really,”
she says. “It was amazing that it all
turned out so wonderfully.”
It really has. The house went on to
win the coveted award for the Best New
Building at the 2022 Highlands and
Islands Architecture Awards. Judges
were impressed with the simple, well
considered use of a frameless, tripleglazed link to connect the rebuilt stone
croft and the larch wing. The comments
called it an example of rural housing at
its best and ‘an exquisite delight and
joy which makes us consider what we
actually need in life’.
For Chris, that was always the plan.
After decades spent in distant places,
coming home to her little stone and
wood-clad haven in the Highlands has
proved to be a wonderful contrast.
“It’s lovely to have a base like this,”
she says. “You get this whole series
of different views. It’s not just monodirectional. You see out to sea but also
up to the mountains and across to the
woodland.
“But it’s also nice within the building.
From here in the living room, you can
look across the glass link to the stone
and depending on the time of day, you
get a really nice light.”
There’s no need for clutter. Chris has
chosen just a few, carefully curated key
pieces to complement the simple beauty
of her surroundings.
Now we’re back talking about
cushions again.
“I’ve been incredibly lucky and worked
with some amazing people,” she says,
reflecting on these souvenirs. She has
chosen to be away less often now but
still has to travel now and again. “It’s
always lovely to be home, though, to
have that space. It’s a real joy to be
here.”

BETWEEN A ROCK AND A LARCH PLACE
The existing stone ruin was taken down and rebuilt to the same proportions. A
larch-clad mirror image was created alongside and connected to the stone
structure by a triple-glazed link.
Architect Neil Stephen says it was a simple but effective design: “The
challenge was to do something that fitted. Having an existing building gave us
a good starting point and we were able to mimic the exact proportions in the
new build.”
Neil and colleague Ian Hall worked closely with Chris throughout the project.
“Good architecture can only happen with a good client,” says Neil. “There
was a strong idea of what we wanted to do and we were able to follow it
through. That was very satisfying.”
Both Neil and Chris would like to say a special thanks to the construction
team, Simpson Builders, based in Beauly.
• dualchas.com

The original stone building
is connected to a new one
by a glass link corridor.

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Fine Bone China
Made in England

coast INTERIORS

SEA SMELLS
The scents and smells of the coast are as appealing as the
sights and sounds. Interiors writer CAROL BURNS sniffs out
some of the best ways to bring coastal air to your interiors

PHOTOGRAPHY: CREAMCORNWALL.CO.UK

Lamorna candle and
diffuser hamper.

hen we think of interiors, we
think of how it looks and
how it feels. But good
interiors should satisfy all five
of our senses. And autumn
is the perfect time to explore
the possibilities of our olfactory glands.
The smell of coffee brewing, bread baking…
estate agents will tell you that making your home
smell nice helps create a welcoming environment

for potential buyers.
And evidence shows that fragrances have
significant and measurable effects on mood,
irritation, stress, depression, apathy, happiness,
sensuality, relaxation and stimulation, so think of
nice-smelling candles as a giant comfy throw.
The home fragrance market is huge. Around
£10billion a year, according to marketing experts.
This ranges from simple cheap gels to designer
aromatherapy candles, reed diffusers and plug-in

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coast INTERIORS
air fresheners. Of course, not everyone
wants to smell lavender, orange
blossom and ylang ylang around their
house, and for many creating nice
smells can be about hiding the bad
ones (teenager’s bedroom anyone?).
Fragrances can also exacerbate
asthma and allergies, but a growing
number of candle makers offer the kind
of natural smells and ingredients that
are less likely to create issues for those
susceptible to breathing conditions
as well as natural processes and
ingredients that create environmentally
sound smells. Go for a clean candle with
no paraffin, no synthetic fragrances, or
hidden ingredients and a pot designed
to be reused or repurposed.
The luxury candle market is creating
products that look as good as they
smell. You can choose different smells
for different seasons, celebrations,
rooms or moods. Lavender – known
to aid sleep, reduce stress and even
alleviate pain – is top of the list when
it comes to candle smells. But like
perfumiers, candle makers are creating
new scents all the time.
If you are one of those people who
like expensive candles to look at, but
rarely light them because they are too
nice, look away now.

Candles capture
the smells of
fresh sea air.

‘Lavender – known to aid sleep, reduce
stress and even alleviate pain – is top of
the list when it comes to candle smells’

PHOTOGRAPHY: ST-EVAL.COM;
CREAMCORNWALL.CO.UK

TAKE A DIY APPROACH
TO HOME FRAGRANCE
If you are not ready to shop for candles, or don’t like the
idea of having naked flames in your house, there are
plenty of ways to please your senses without the price
tag.
Opening your windows for a short period of time to
freshen your home can have a massive effect on the air
in your room – think of those gulps of fresh air we enjoy.
Try opening all your windows for half an hour a day and
let the outside in.
If opening windows in winter seems a bad idea, get
those textiles out on the line. Don’t worry about
washing them – putting a throw out on a windy day for
a couple of hours can have a massive effect.
Add a few drops of essential oils, like tea tree or
peppermint, to an old cup, add boiling water, and leave
it to sit (this is great for a blast of clean in kitchens).

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Beachcomber candle in
hand painted fine China.

coast INTERIORS

HOW TO USE
YOUR CANDLES

Candles from Purscents are housed
in glass pots designed to be reused
Serve up pudding in
your old candle vase

Reuse as kitchen
storage for herbs
and spices

Turn your candle
pot into a pen cup

Turn your glass candle
vessel into a cocktail glass

PHOTOGRAPHY: PURSCENTS.CO.UK

12

• Most candle makers will give you
an estimate of the burning time of
each candle, so get the most out of
your investment.
• No candle should be lit for more
than four hours.
• You should NEVER leave a candle
lit in an unoccupied room.
• An hour is long enough to create a
melted pool of fragranced wax.
Wicks should also be trimmed to
keep the wax even.
• Cream Cornwall uses their
signature inky blue sea-dwelling
designs to create the perfect coastal
accessory. These bone chinaencased candles are real keepers
and the pot can reused with
nightlights or consider planting some
tiny houseplants like succulents.
• Candle vessels and pots are still
ending up in recycling bins and
landfills. If you want to get the most
out of your designer candle, try
Purscents’ pre-scented candle refill.
Their glass pot comes with a stopper
and can be reused for candles (they
have a range of refills) or give them a
good clean and use for kitchen
storage, cocktails or pen pots.
• St Eval are inspired by their home in
West Cornwall. The Lamorna
collection blends natural wax in glass
candles, maxi tealights and reed
diffusers. For something with a real
coastal presence try the Sea Mist Pot
or Lamorna Sea Salt Glass Candle.
• Gel melts are a new way to create
home fragrances without the
responsibility of reusing the pot.
These little pots of gel come in a
mind-blowing number of scents and
their size makes it easy to choose
different smells on a whim. Each one
can last up to 40 hours – that’s a lot
of smell for £3.20. You add the gel to
a wax or oil burner. Ella & I also offer
a subscription service.

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Lavender House
BEMBRIDGE
Lavender House is a stunning and well
appointed property situated in the coastal
village of Bembridge, set on the sought
after, Swains Lane. Built to provide high
quality accommodation, comprising a
detached family home set across four
floors and complimented by a heated
outdoor pool, luxurious pool complex,
self-contained ancillary accommodation
and a large landscaped garden, all set
within a plot extending to just under ¾ of
an acre.

Guide Price: £2,750,000
EPC: C
Council Tax Band: H
Tenure: Freehold

www .bcm.co.uk

iow@bcm.co.uk

@BCM_LLP

01983 828 805

coast PROPERTY

COASTLINES

Relocation specialist NIGEL BISHOP casts his expert eye
over the coastal property scene

T

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP This house in Sandringham Road, Southport, is simply stunning;
Whitehouse is a unique waterfront home; Woodhey is a great family home.

mountains and coastline. Whilst it is
a national visitor draw, it is also home
to the farming community and retains
the charm of a bygone era in terms
of buildings strongly protected by the
National Park planning rules. It remains a
wonderful location to live, particularly for
those who enjoy an outdoor lifestyle.
Here’s my pick this month of three
special north west properties for sale:
1 Sandringham Road, Southport,
is an elegant Edwardian house
professionally renovated, sympathetically
combining cutting edge features of
modern living whilst retaining the period
charm. Set in a favoured north west road
within landscaped grounds – it is simply
stunning. Chris Tinsley (christinsley.
co.uk) are the selling agents.
Woodhey, Silverdale, is a spacious,
six-bedroom home close to the beach

and has been carefully renovated to
merge period features with modern
amenities. A great family home
in pretty waterside village within
an Area of Outstanding Beauty.
(waterhouseestates.co.uk)
Whitehouse, Parton, Whitehaven,
is a prominent house literally a stone’s
throw from the beach along the car-free
Wagon Road with open sea views.
Dating back to the early 18th century
and updated to 21st century living, this is
unique waterfront home. (tiffen.co.uk)
Every region within the British Isles has
its own culture and none more so than
the north west. Home to entrepreneurs
through the centuries and many a
music talent has emerged from the
area – a sure sign of a comfortable
home because, after all, “It’s all about
coming home.”

Nigel Bishop, Recoco Property Search, 07939 559349; njb@recoco.co.uk; recoco.co.uk

co astma ga zin e.co.uk

C OA ST 101

PHOTGRAPHY: CHRIS TINSLEY; TIFFENS;
WATERHOUSE ESTATE AGENTS

he north west is an intriguing
coastline not always given
the showcase it should have.
Stretching along the shorelines
of Cheshire, Merseyside, Greater
Manchester, Lancashire and Cumbria, it
is home to over seven million people.
Like all island dwellers those living
within these counties like to watch the
waves whenever possible and with the
ever increasing road improvements this
is entirely possible from anywhere within
the region.
Due to its distance from London and
southern cities this coastline remains
predominantly the preserve of the
regional population, other than those
venturing en-masse into The Lake
District. Just south of The Lake District is
Morecambe Bay - the largest expanse of
intertidal mudflats and sand in the United
Kingdom, covering 120 square miles. A
favourite destination for seaside trips.
Other than the towns, the coastline
itself is sparsely populated with villages
and hamlets nestling against the sea many enjoying stunning wide coastal
views - so inevitably many properties
become second homes and are
available on Airbnb.
Then there are the major better known
towns, Southport, Blackpool and down
to Birkenhead in Cheshire. These are the
thriving business and cultural centres.
Here the 21st century has made its mark
in so many ways, resulting in hotspots
in the property world where values do
equate to those in the south east.
One cannot miss referencing
specifically The Lake District itself, a
UNESCO World Heritage site with lakes,

c

WIN A LUXURY CRUISE
ALONG THE SCOTTISH COAST
PoB Hotels are offering one reader the chance to take a
dream trip on The Hebridean Princess

PHOTOGRAPHY POB HOTELS

P

urpose-built for Scotland’s Western
Isles, The Hebridean Princess is a
small luxury cruise ship, launched
by Hebridean Island Cruises in 1989.
Sailing mainly from her home port of
Oban, her small size means she has
access to the remotest islands, lochs and
bays beyond the reach of larger vessels,
gliding serenely through the water.
The Hebridean Princess perfectly
complements the wildly beautiful Scottish
scenery. Carrying a maximum of 48
passengers, fellow guests soon become
friends. Wild landscapes, Europe’s best
beaches, wildlife in abundance and
centuries of history await you on board.
And below deck, expect all the comforts
and luxuries of a boutique hotel.

10 2 CO AST

coastm agazine.co.uk

Take your place on the viewing deck, the
best seat in the house. The wind in your
hair, a dram to hand. Sea birds wheeling
and diving above. Eyes to the waves, there
are seals, porpoises and dolphins here,
whales too, if luck is with you.
On the horizon could be the colourful
houses of Tobermory, the rugged
coastlines of Coll, Iona, Colonsay or
Rum, secluded sea lochs or the turrets of
baronial castles. The sounds of the sea
all around.
• pobhotels.com/hotel/hebrideanprincess/

THE PRIZE

Four-night, all-inclusive cruise on the Clyde
Coast Explorer excursion, staying in a

Castle Cabin (king or twin beds) with full
bathroom with bath and separate walk-in
shower, for two people, commencing
November 15, 2023, cruising from
Greenock and returning to Greenock.
hebridean.co.uk/cruise-calendar/
hebridean-princess-cruises/clyde-coastexplorer-2/

HOW TO ENTER

Please go to the competition page at
coastmagazine.co.uk/win and answer this
question by September 29, 2023:
Where is the home port of The
Hebridean Princess?
A: Greenock
B: Oban
C: Leith

coast PROMOTION
The Hebridean Princess
perfectly complements
the wildly beautiful
Scottish scenery.

Your cabin awaits…

Dine in style on board.

A warm welcome aboard.

x

Drinks are included
in your prize.

KELSEY TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Prize is non-refundable and no cash alternative is available. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Entry is free. Open
to residents of the UK aged over 18. Employees of Kelsey Media and the competition provider and their family members are not eligible to win. Only one entry permitted per
household; no bulk entries will be accepted. The first correct entry drawn after the closing date will win. Our winner will be notified within 28 days. If our winner fails to respond
after three attempts at contact, a new winner will be drawn. The prize is not transferable. If any prize or product is lost or damaged during the course of delivery to the recipient,
Kelsey Media will provide reasonable assistance in seeking to resolve the problem. However, it will not always be possible to obtain replacements for lost or damaged goods and,
in that event, no financial compensation would be payable by Kelsey Media or its affiliates. We reserve the right to cancel the competition if circumstances change which are
beyond our control. Coast is a Kelsey Media brand. Here at Kelsey Media we take your privacy seriously and will only use your personal information to provide the products and
services you have requested from us. We will only contact you with news and special offers via the preferences you have indicated. We will never share your information with any
third party without your consent. You can view our full Privacy Policy at kelsey.co.uk/privacy-notice/
No alternative cruise to be offered – fixed cruise dates; 4 night cruise commencing 15th November 2023 from Greenock to Greenock
HEBRIDEAN ISLAND CRUISES & POB HOTELS TERMS AND CONDIITIONS: All meals are included. This includes both on board and ashore, and all snacks and picnics. Fresh
fruit from baskets around the ship. Champagne, wines (excluding those from the Premium Wine Library range). Plus, beers, spirits, soft drinks, tea, coffee and other hot drinks.
Knowledgeable guides accompany all cruises, both on board and on the tours ashore. Footloose walking itineraries include three experienced guides. Also, selected cruises
feature guest speakers.
The entrance fees to all castles, gardens and other places of interest on our cruises are included. As are transfers between the ship and each destination ashore, as shown in the
itineraries.
Guests can make use of the ship’s bicycles to explore ashore. There is free use of the internet including wi-fi access.
Travel to and from the local airport or railway station to and from The Hebridean Princess is included. Also, secure car parking is provided at the port.
Hebridean cruises can be made even more enjoyable with fishing trips and speedboat rides. Hebridean Cruises staff will arrange extra activities by request at no extra charge.
All pier and harbour dues are included. Finally, Hebridean Cruises operates a strict ’no tipping’ policy.
Not included are: Travel to and from private coach transfer points. Wines and spirits from the Premium Wine Library range. Any private shore visits organised by request which are
not part of the cruise itinerary. Personal telephone calls. Items purchased from The Hebridean Princess shop. Personal laundry.

coas tm aga zi ne .co.uk

COAST 10 3

COAST BY MULGRAVE
Burniston, Near Scarborough, North Yorkshire

OUR BRAND-NEW PROPERTIES ARE AVAILABLE TO RESERVE IN THE NORTH YORKSHIRE
VILLAGE OF BURNISTON. PERFECT FOR BUYERS SEARCHING FOR A SIZABLE COASTAL
HOME OR THOSE SEEKING TO GENERATE ADDITIONAL INCOME AS A HOLIDAY-LET.
Set on the edge of the North York Moors National Park, COAST provides the beautiful backdrop
of moorland and shoreline, packed full with history and heritage, pretty fishing
bays and picturesque villages. As well as many popular seaside towns, such as
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Our 2-, 3- and 4-bed properties blend traditional construction with advanced
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Visit MULGRAVEPROPERTIES.CO.UK for more information or call 0333 370 2604

Tyddyn Du Farmhouse and Bothy present the
epitome of an idyllic country coastal lifestyle. This 4
bedroom detached stone farmhouse plus one bedroom
detached stone cottage (currently a holiday rental) are
situated in a beautiful rural location, with sea views,
traditional features and beautiful gardens. In addition
included in the sale is an extra plot of land with parking
and sea views. Secluded but not isolated, it is located
on a private road and in walking distance of the coastal
village of Dyffryn Ardudwy.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

£725,000 | Tyddyn Du
Dyffryn Ardudwy | LL44 2DW

4 bed Farmhouse and 1 bed Bothy
Sympathetically modernised and upgraded
A wealth of traditional features
Attached outbuilding
Beautiful extensive gardens, approx 1/2 acre (not
measured)
Sea views and idyllic location in Eryri (Snowdonia)
National Park
Additional plot of land with sea views and parking
Beautifully presented
Centrally heated
Walking distance of village amenities

01341 475000
gwynedd@monopolybuysellrent.co.uk

coast DOGS

SEADOGS

Rounding up all the latest news and information to help
you enjoy time at the beach with your dog
North Devon is a great area for
dogs. Here’s Poppy overlooking
Woolacombe Beach.

ALEX GREEN rounds up the top five
tips for walking along the coast with
your dog, to make sure you and your
pooch stay safe and have fun
Find a walk with dog-friendly places
to pause. Top dog walks along the
coast take in a beach, pub or restaurant
that caters to the needs of dogs and
their owners. Water bowls, dog biscuits
and doggy ice cream provide muchneeded refreshments. The South West
Coast Path has a selection of dogfriendly routes: southwestcoastpath.
org.uk/top-dog/
Be aware of seasonal restrictions or
dog bans on beaches. Salty sea dogs
have more fun in autumn and winter
after the seasonal restrictions on some
of our most popular beaches are lifted.
If you find yourself on a beach with a

dog ban in place, there’s always a way
around it - just stick to the designated
coast path.
If you don’t have a reliable recall,
keep your dog within sight or on a lead,
especially when other people, dogs or
livestock are about.
Even the best trained dogs can be
distracted by seabirds or rabbits too
close to the cliff edge. Better to be safe
than sorry by keeping them close.
Enjoy the journey. There’s something
special about a coast path walk with
dog in tow. A contentment that lasts
longer than the walk itself thanks to
the sights, sounds and smells of the
sea. Find a comfortable place to put
your paws up the end of the day. The
Carlton Hotel in Ilfracombe is uber dogfriendly where canine guests receive

a welcome pack on arrival and are
invited to accompany their owners in
the restaurant for breakfast and dinner.
ilfracombecarlton.co.uk

TOP DOG
WEEKENDER
North Devon is a haven for dog
walkers. The South West Coast
Path from Ilfracombe to Saunton
makes for the ultimate coastal
dog walk over two full days
(approximately 15 miles in total).
Along the route, there are miles of
golden sands at Woolacombe and
Saunton Sands where dogs can be
off lead all-year-round.

coas tm aga zi ne .co.uk

COAST 10 5

PHOTOGRAPHY: MARK CLINTON JOHNSON MCJPHOTOART.COM

TOG FIVE TIPS FOR WALKING YOUR DOG ON THE COAST

coast PROMOTION

MAKING MAGICAL
MEMORIES TOGETHER…
A new survey has shown just how much joint adventures
benefit both a dog and their owner

H

PHOTOGRAPHY FORTHGLADE

alf of UK dog owners have a
‘bucket list’ of memorable
experiences they dream of
sharing with their pet, with adventures
of hiking up mountains, swimming in
seas and camping under the stars top
of the list.
A study of 2,000 UK dog parents
found a third (32 per cent) class
their four-legged friend as their key
adventure buddy with exploring new
cities, paddleboarding, wild swimming
and even cycling all listed as activities
owners are keen to experience with
their dogs.
The research - commissioned by
Forthglade Natural Pet Food - found 30
per cent would like to create adventureled memories with their dog.
Whilst there are great memories
to be made with our dogs there are
also lots of proven health benefits of
exploring the great outdoors together.
From exercising more, to improving
our mental health and forming a closer
bond with our dogs, the list is wide and
varied.
But the health benefits don’t stop at
the owners. Dogs can also see a huge
improvement to both their physical and
mental health with added stimulation
from new activities and enjoying

Forthglade’s range is packed full of goodness
and is free from junk and fillers.

10 6 CO AST

coastm agazine.co.uk

There are lots of proven health benefits of
exploring the great outdoors with you dog.

more time outside. When adventuring
together, pet owners stated that
getting fresh air (40 per cent), creating
memories (31 per cent) and meeting
new people and their pets (26 per cent)
played a key incentive in getting them
outdoors with their dog.
If you’re keen to take up a new
activity or sport with your dog, starting
slowly and building up is the best
approach. Whilst most dogs appear
to have endless energy it’s important
they’re ready both in age (from around
1 year+) and general fitness.
Ensure your dogs are well-fuelled
with a nutritious diet, such as
Forthglade’s range of natural wet and
dry food packed full of goodness
and free from junk and fillers,
to support their overall health,
and don’t forget to pack some
delicious treats to both reward and
bond with your dog when you’re
out exploring. Check out the top
20 bucket list on this page for
some adventure inspiration.
• Visit forthglade.com to
discover the full range of natural
recipes and treats for your dog.

TOP 20 BUCKET
LIST FOR
PAWSOME
ADVENTURES
1. Run on the beach
2. Holiday in the UK
3. Dog-friendly hotel break
4. Exploring the local area/town
5. Road trip
6. Watch a sunset
7. Swim in the sea
8. Watch a sunrise
9. Camping in a tent
10. Hike a mountain
11. Exploring a new city
12. Holidaying abroad
13. Dine al fresco
14. Wild swimming
15. Bike ride
16. Complete an agility course
17. Dog-friendly spa day
18. Watching a live sports game
19. Boat tour
20. Paddleboarding

coast DOGS
The bandana can be worn
by hound or human!

IN ASSOCIATION WITH FORTHGLADE

Salmon with Dill Fishy
Bites are a super
indulgent grain free
treat for your fourlegged best friend.
75 per cent salmon with
only natural
ingredients, containing
no junk or fillers.
Suitable for dogs aged
2+ months.
70g bag, £3.25 from
forthglade.com.

STYLISH BANDANA FOR
YOUR POOCH…AND YOU!
Give you and
your dog a stylish
makeover with
this Cotton Shore
Bandana Scarf from
doggie gift experts
Kintails.
From the dog
walking paradise of
Cornwall, Kintails
creates thoughtfully
designed accessories for dogs and owners that are
beautiful, functional, and durable enough for everyday
adventures.
Slow and considered in their approach, Kintails works
only with UK-based manufacturers and craftspeople to
help reduce their carbon pawprint.
A collaboration with UK designer Siobhan Palmer
and inspired by Kintails’ local coastal dog walks, this
accessory can be worn by both hound and human –
share or double up for a twinning look! £35, available end
of August. kintails.com

DOG of the MONTH
Some very sad news to report for our Dog of the
Month this issue as since sending us this lovely
picture of Tiki, her 14-year-old Jack Russell,
owner Anne Clark has had to take the heartbreaking decision to put her to sleep.
Anne, of Bircham Newton, Norfolk, explains:
“Sadly, Tiki’s health took a serious turn for the
worse and with the heaviest of hearts, I had to
have her put to sleep. Her loss is enormous.
“It would have been lovely if her picture had
made its way into an issue of Coast
as Dog of the Month.”
All of us at Coast send our condolences to Anne
and we are honoured to print this picture of a
beautiful and loyal dog as a tribute to her.

coas tm aga zi ne .co.uk

COAST 10 7

coast PROFILE

FILLING A GAP
IN THE MARKET
PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS BOULTON/FISHERMAN’S MISSION

A mobile dental unit is helping fishermen in Cornwall and Devon
look after their teeth, as KIRSTIE NEWTON discovers
t’s a sunny autumn day in Padstow.
Blue skies frame the yellow sand
bars of the Camel Estuary, and a
splash of purple adorns the harbour
wall. The striking mobile dental unit
run by the Smile Together team is
doing steady business, its presence
carefully timed to greet fishermen as
they return from a morning’s work.
As it turned out, it wasn’t such a great
fishing day, the waters being lumpier than
expected. Consequently, the dental team

10 8 CO AST

coastm agazine.co.uk

aren’t as rushed off their feet as they were
in Mevagissey, Newlyn and Newquay
(and over the border in Brixham, on
the south Devon coast). “The guys
are probably working on their boats or
mending their nets,” says Fisherman’s
Mission officer Mike Dale, who works
closely with Smile Together to ensure
the touring surgery reaches as many
members of his community as possible.
These are folk for whom the
conventional appointment system doesn’t

work. “If they haven’t been able to fish for
a while and a trip comes along, they will
jump on that boat – and could be away
for seven days at a time,” Mike explains.
If that means missing an appointment
made six months earlier, so be it - paying
the bills comes first.
The knock-on effects are predictable.
Poor oral health can result in toothache
at sea, which can have a negative impact
on concentration and compromise safety
in what Mike describes as “the most

PREVIOUS PAGE
Returning to Newlyn
from a successful
day’s catch.
ABOVE CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Fisherman Gus
Caslake in Newlyn
Harbour; Smiles all
round in Mevagissey;
Mike Dale with a
happy fisherman
during a Smiles at
Sea session; Dentist
Jamie Robbins and
dental nurse Hannah
Lodwell in the mobile
dental unit at
Padstow.

provide urgent and emergency dental treatment: “If
you dial 111 with a dental emergency, you will get put
through to us,” says project lead Joy Callender. “The
idea is to keep people out of A&E where possible.”
It’s a service in real demand due to current
pressures on the NHS, with many people struggling
to register with an NHS dentist and waiting lists in the
private sector. Smiles at Sea offers fishing families
procedures from scale and polish to permanent
fillings and simple tooth extraction, with referrals
through NHS routes for more complex oral surgery.
Dentist Jamie Robbins and dental nurse Hannah
Lodwick have been kept busy in Padstow: “Nothing
too drastic,” says Jamie, “mostly broken teeth and
decay, belt-and-braces stuff.”
Everyone who visited needed treatment, and
crucially, “none were currently registered with an NHS
dentist, and had no means of paying for

‘It’s all about keeping them fit so they can go to sea - they
are all self-employed, so if they don’t work, they don’t get paid’

coas tm aga zi ne .co.uk

COAST 10 9

PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS BOULTON/FISHERMAN’S MISSION;
SMILE TOGETHER; FISHERMAN’S MISSION/SEAFIT

dangerous occupation in peacetime Britain”. He
recounts tales of DIY dentistry – tooth extraction with
pliers, or the use of table salt to numb the pain.
This is why fisherfolk must have an ENG1 seafarer
medical fitness certificate to be able to go to sea.
The checklist includes BMI, cholesterol levels, blood
pressure…and dentistry. The Fishermen’s Mission’s
SeaFit programme aims to help them stay healthy
by making appointments as easy as possible, in the
most popular fishing hubs.
“It’s all about keeping them fit so they can go to
sea,” says Mike. “They are all self-employed, so if
they don’t work, they don’t get paid.”
Enter Smiles At Sea. Since 2017, this awardwinning programme has been delivered by Smile
Together Dental CIC, working in partnership with the
FishMish and the Seafarers’ Hospital Society. Smile
Together is commissioned and funded by the NHS to

coast PROFILE

private treatment,” continues Jamie. “It’s a picture
pretty consistent with Cornwall in general.”
A typical patient is James Swabey, 31. Although
based in Padstow, he fishes out of Newlyn due to
the size of his boat, entailing an hour-long commute
each way. “Last week I was meant to be home until
Friday, but wound up going out on Tuesday because
the weather was good,” he says. “You can’t not go
and miss out on the money.”
All this makes it hard to make and keep
appointments, and he lost a place at an NHS
practice for missing two on the trot. The last time
James saw a dentist was three years ago, at a similar
Smiles At Sea event before the pandemic; he has
been waiting for two-and-a-half years to see one
privately. “Each time I was home, it wasn’t convenient
– eventually I gave up.”
A wisdom tooth has been giving James some gyp,
resulting in a lot of fiddling with cocktail sticks out at
sea. The Smile Together team give him advice on
how to avoid getting food stuck in it, and refer him for
a hospital appointment for more detailed work.
Joy takes him through a survey in which he reveals
a habit of chugging energy drinks to get him through
night watches. One bottle contains the equivalent of

11 0 CO AST

coastm agazine.co.uk

ABOVE CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT
Fisherman Gus
Caslake sailing out of
Newlyn Harbour; The
Smile Together
mobile dental unit;
Coiled fishing ropes;
Coming into Newlyn
Harbour.

11 teaspoons of sugar. Again, the dentists confirm
that such drinks are popular with the population at
large and not just fishermen.
Prevention is part of the cure. There’s quite a
village of advice here, including Cornwall Council’s
Healthy Cornwall team, the health and social
care champion Healthwatch and even the Covid
vaccination team, making it a convenient onestop shop. Harbourmaster Bryn Philips pops in for
support: “We do anything we can to help the fishing
community, because Padstow is a fishing port.”
While Smiles at Sea is an annual event, Smile
Together works year-round with other communities
in need, such as supporting Cornwall Health for
Homeless pop-ups in Penzance and taking the
mobile dental unit to Newquay’s DISC (Drop In and
Share Centre) for scheduled appointments and to
distribute oral health packs.
The Seafarers Hospital Society is supporting
Brighter Smiles financially over a five-year period,
in which time all parties hope to see a great
improvement in overall oral health.
Certainly in Cornwall, Smiles At Sea appears to be
inspiring fisherfolk to take better long-term care of
their teeth. “In Mevagissey, several people said they
had registered with a dentist as a result of seeing us,”
says Hannah Lodwick, proudly. “That’s exactly what
we want.”
• Smiles at Sea is currently touring Devon and
Cornwall, with dates in Newlyn, Mevagissey,
Padstow, Brixham, Hayle, Looe and Plymouth.
smiletogether.co.uk.

SMILES AT SEA 2022
IN NUMBERS
• Five harbourside locations: Mevagissey,
Newlyn, Newquay and Padstow in Cornwall,
and Brixham in Devon.
• Eight days.
• 103 fisherfolk (active and retired) and their
dependent family members.
• 12 per cent hadn’t visited a dentist for five
years or more.
• 37 fillings.
• Ten extractions/root removals.
• 25 scale and polish.
• Ten X-rays.
• 13 patients referred for further care,
including for suspected oral cancer
• 99 per cent promised to visit again.

ADVERTISEMENT SALES

Investment Manager: Zara Mehmet
Direct Line: 01732 445325; Mobile: 07415 325673
zara@talk-media.uk

coastmagazine.co.uk

coast is published by Kelsey Publishing Ltd,

Ad Production Executive Nick Bond
(01732 440038) nick@talk-media.uk

The Granary, Downs Court, Yalding Hill,
Yalding, Kent, ME18 6AL

Managing Director: Kevin McCormick

EDITORIAL

SUBSCRIPTIONS
Subscription and back issue order line:
+44 (0)1959 543 747

Editor: Andy Cooper
Art Editor: Lee Caple
Contributing Editor: Caroline Wheater
With thanks this issue to: Sue Bowern, Dan
Marshall, Sue McQueenie, Sophia Pouget

12 issues of Coast published per annum
UK annual subscription price - £92.88
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Rest of World annual subscription price - £128.88

Customer service and subscription postal address:

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Granary, Downs Court, Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent, ME18 6A
write to COAST Customer Service Team at Kelsey’s address
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the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published. Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor
cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties.
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If at any point you have any queries regarding Kelsey’s data policy you can email our Data Protection Officer at dpo@kelsey.co.uk.

coas tm aga zi ne .co.uk

COAST 11 1

Directory
Enjoy Autumn & Winter Breaks In The Northern Lake District

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at 7 Harney Peak, Portinscale, Keswick
www.harney-peak.co.uk | harneypeak@outlook.com | 07812993275

PATTARD NORTH DEVON COAST
Luxury barn conversions sleeping 2-8
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On site Restaurant

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Tel 01237441444 for table reservation

Directory
STUDLAND DORSET

HOLIDAY COTTAGE WITH
BREATHTAKING VIEWS

WESTLEIGH

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Dinner, Bed
and
Breakfast
A gastronomic
treat
awaits
you
and
your
canine
friend.

Situated
in
Beer, Devon
a traditional
fishing
village
on
the
picturesque
Jurassic
Coast.
A warm
welcome, local
ingredients,
home
cooking
at
its
best!

www.westleighbeer.co.uk
01297
23247

Barrington Cottage in Studland, Dorset - situated with spectacular
views of the Isle of Wight, Poole Harbour and Christchurch Bay
• 10 minute walk to village/pub/beach, with a beach hut on South Beach.
• Stunning Old Harry walk right from property.
• Week lets and shorts breaks available all year, booking from Sept 2023.
• Sleeps 6/8 in 3 bedrooms; 2 bathrooms.
• Living room with open fire, plus futon.
• Large fenced garden great for children. • Dog friendly. Off road parking

Contact: sarahtoulson@hotmail.co.uk

REACH OVER

251,000

COAST LOVING READERS

TO FIND OUT MORE CALL ZARA ON: 07415 325673

coast CELEBRITY
The cliffs at Robin Hood’s Bay
are a favourite with Brian.

MY COAST
Larger than life actor BRIAN BLESSED loves a challenge and one of his
passions is mountaineering. Why? Well, Brian’s a Yorkshireman and the
coast of that great county has some of the best cliffs you’ll ever see

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAMY; SHUTTERSTOCK

WORDS BERNARD BALE

I have been described
as a swashbuckling
sort of character
– whatever that
means – and people
have often asked if I
grew up by the sea.
Actually I came from Mexborough in
South Yorkshire at a time when most
young men left school and went down
the mines. I always liked fresh air and
climbing upwards rather than digging
down.
I might have taken a job on the
railways because that was a big love of
mine but then so was boxing. Strange
that I should end up being an actor. I
think that it was in part because I liked
peace and quiet and I still do and as
an actor you need times when you are
away from people.
That is probably why I like the Yorkshire
coast so much. We used to visit when

11 4 CO AST

coastm agazine.co.uk

I was a boy and I always thought it was
remarkable that within a few minutes you
could be enjoying a wonderful ice cream
in Scarborough and then a short distance
away be awe-struck by the magnificent
cliffs of Robin Hood’s Bay. Maybe I just
liked the name...Robin Hood was one of
my heroes.
From an early age I loved cliffs
and always wanted to climb them,
hard to say why, it was just a spirit
of adventure, the challenge, I don’t
know but one thing is for certain, the
Yorkshire coast provides a marvellous
variety of cliffs, rocks and beaches as
well as an incredible heritage. Take
Whitby as an example - it has an
incredible fishing and whaling history as
well as being the home of unique jet.
At the other end of the Yorkshire
coast is the amazing Spurn Point with
its spectacular bird life. As I said, you
can have all the fun of the fair or total

peace and quiet. I like both. I am a
peaceful sort of person really, I know I
don’t seem it and I have had an acting
lifetime of playing warriors.
I think the coastline of the county
reflects the character of the sea,
sometimes it is so serene and almost
seems to be basking in the sun itself
while at other times it goes crazy and
crashes itself against the cliffs which is
why we have all those wonderful bays,
stray rocks and caves.
We walk along the beach and look at
the cliffs and they seem to be the same
every time and yet they are not. The
combination of rock which is millions
of years old and the power of the sea
makes for an ever-changing picture that
is constantly transforming itself before
our very eyes.
That’s very evident on the Yorkshire
coast and one of the reasons I like it so
much.

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£1,750,000 Toot Rock, Pett Level

A detached four bedroom beach house with open plan living
accommodation, opening directly onto Camber sands and enjoying
widespread sea views across Rye Bay.

Hastings Old Town

Camber Sands

A detached coastal house occupying a commanding elevated
position and enjoying sweeping coastal, sea and inland countryside
views set in gardens of approx. 0.7 acres

£1,490,000 Littlestone

A historically significant and architecturally unique detached family
home in extensive and mature exotic gardens enjoying great
southerly views to the sea and across the historic Old Town to the
East Hill and Hastings Country Park.

£1,000,000

A beautifully converted Victorian church affording a spectacular open
plan interior and occupying an enviable position just 100 yards from
the seafront.

£850,000 Dungeness

A detached four bedroom coastal property with large garden
situated off a no through private road within sight of the famous
sand dunes and vast stretch of beach.

£1,400,000

£675,000

A detached single storey coastal house located between the old
and new lighthouses set well back off an unmade track within the
Dungeness Estate with views over the shingle beds.

RYE OFFICE 01797 227338
MAYFAIR OFFICE 0870 112 7099
phillipsandstubbs.co.uk

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PHOTOGRAPHY: SHUTTERSTOCK

GUIDE TO SOME OF OUR FAVOURITE BREAKS & HOLIDAYS

GREAT VALUE IDEAS

FOR A FABULOUS GETAWAY BY THE SEA
THIS AUTUMN AND WINTER

Creekside
Cottages
®

Falmouth Area, Cornwall

Discover our exquisite collection of luxurious
and individual waterside, rural and village
self-catering Cornish holiday cottages perfect
for a holiday at any time of the year in
incredible locations.

creeksidecottages.co.uk | 01326 375972

coast WELCOME
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Y

ou will struggle to convince me
there is a better place to enjoy a
holiday than the UK coastline...and I
speak as a man who has been lucky
enough to visit plenty of countries
abroad over the years.
If you like beaches, clifftop walks,
coves, harbours, cute coastal
communities, dining out or watersports
and adventures...you name it, the UK coast has it all.
In this special coast supplement we have a wonderful
collection of great places to enjoy a staycation in the UK,
from special seaside town to islands to amazing attractions
juts waiting to be discovered.
I do hope our recommendations prove as wonderful to you
as they did to us...have a great time out there!

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CONTENTS
5

Cover image:
Footsteps on the
beach at
Aberdyfi, Wales.
PHOTOGRAPH:
SHUTTERSTOCK

Kelsey Media 2023 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading
name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden
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9

10

11

12

15

16

HIDDEN GEMS
Discover three of Scotland’s
lesser known attractions
LAKE PLACID
A peaceful spot moments from
the north Devon coastline
WATERSIDE WONDER
A special staycation spot
HOT STUFF!
Enjoy a seaside sauna right
beside the beach in Dorset
STEPPING OUT
Take to Cornwall’s amazing
coastal path with our walks
COTTAGE INDUSTRY
A selection of amazing south
west holiday homes to rent
REGALLY BLONDE
Stay at magnificent hotel on the
magical island of Alderney

17

18

21

22

24

27

28

ROMANTIC RETREAT Relax
in at a superb Cornish cottage
COASTAL CAPERS
Great ideas for a trip along
Yorkshire’s wonderful coast
THREE AND EASY
Why not visit some unheralded
seaside towns in Sussex?
ON YOUR BIKE
Easy ways to cycle some
special coastal trails in Wales
ISLAND PARADISE
Why Guernsey has something
to offer all kinds of holidaymaker
WITH A PINCH OF SALT
Visit so many attractive towns
along the Essex coastline
NORTHERN POWERHOUSE
Dramatic places and brilliant
beaches in Northumberland

coa stma g azi ne.co.uk

3 CO AST

The Lookout Tower, Beer, Devon

Find your perfect coastal hideaway
From spectacular coastal retreats to charming country cottages, we have something for
everyone in our collection of beautiful, self-catering holiday homes.
Our expert local teams are always on hand to help plan your perfect getaway – so why not escape
to one of our properties today? Many are dog-friendly too, so your four-legged friend can also
enjoy the abundance of walks – on the beach, or in the countryside – that the UK has to offer.

hideawaysholidays.co.uk
Do you have a property you would like to let with Hideaways Holidays?
If so, please get in touch with one of our experienced Property Managers today.

newowners@hideawaysholidays.co.uk
The Hideaways family I CORNWALL HIDEAWAYS I COTSWOLDS HIDEAWAYS I DEVON HIDEAWAYS I DORSET HIDEAWAYS
GLAMPING HIDEAWAYS I ISLE OF WIGHT HIDEAWAYS I NORFOLK HIDEAWAYS I SUFFOLK HIDEAWAYS I YORKSHIRE HIDEAWAYS
RURAL RETREATS I LANTERN & LARKS

coast STAYCATIONS SCOTLAND

SIMON BALDWIN takes a tour of some lesser known Scottish
gems which he says are worthy of further exploration

STEVENSON LIGHTHOUSE PHOTOGRAP SIMON BALDWIN ; FRASERBURGH
PHOTOGRAPHS THE MUSEUM OF SCOTTISH LIGHTHOUSES

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Fraserburgh Lighthouse is an extraordinary property and well worth a visit; One of Stevenson Lighthouses stands
proudly at Cape Wrath; The Ozone Cafe is claimed to be Britain’s most remote cafe; Explore the historical wonders of Fraserburgh Lighthouse.

THE MUSEUM OF
SCOTTISH
LIGHTHOUSES IN
FRASERBURGH
This is an extraordinary property and
well worth a visit. Complete with an
adjacent Wine Tower, today’s
lighthouse is one of the best-preserved
buildings on what is known locally as
the “nine castles of the knuckle” –
ancient fortifications dotted along
Aberdeenshire’s Buchan coast which
punches out into the North Sea.
Visitors can see the lighthouse as
well as many original features of the
castle including the old kitchens and
elements of the grand hall. The
museum is both an independent
charitable trust and a limited company
– “dedicated to preserving the
industrial and social history of Scottish
Lighthouses.”

Museum manager Lynda McGuigan
explains: “You get a real sense of a
lighthouse keeper’s life – from seeing
our wonderfully preserved quarters to
appreciating just how hard life must
have been in this windswept but
beautiful corner of Scotland.”
lighthousemuseum.org.uk/

CAPE WRATH
Look north from atop mainland
Britain’s highest sea cliffs and there’s
no land between you and the Arctic. It
is easy to understand that ‘wrath’ is
derived from the old Norse for ‘turning
point’ – this is where the Vikings turned
for home.
Annually, up to 6,000 visitors make
the trip to Cape Wrath, some in walking
boots trekking one of two long
distance trails: the 200-mile-long Cape
Wrath Trail and The Scottish National

Trail – at 470 miles, the longest in
Scotland.
If you are not a hiker, you get there
via the Cape Wrath minibuses. There’s
a small passenger ferry that takes
around ten minutes to cross the Kyle of
Durness. The buses then meet you
and it takes about an hour to drive the
11-mile track to Cape Wrath.
It is a bumpy road, but the
buses don’t go above 15 mph. And
when you get to Cape Wrath, you’ll
have around 90 minutes to soak up
this astonishing coastal landscape.
visitcapewrath.com

MOUNT STUART ON
THE ISLE OF BUTE
Mount Stuart House is home to the
Crichton-Stuarts, the Marquesses of
Bute. The 2nd Marquess risked his
family’s fortunes on a hunch

coa stma g azi ne.co.uk

5 CO AST

ŎìÜń÷ ŔĴ Ŕč÷ 8ŎĥÜĬò
3')%2&09)
(4&8&1 7*87*&8

Delightful cottages sleeping 2-10 above Monks Bay, Bonchurch, Isle of Wight

www.oceanbluecoastalretreats.co.uk

coast STAYCATIONS SCOTLAND

PHOTOGRAPHS MOUNT STUART HOUSE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Mount Stuart House is an incredible building; You will see furnishings, artwork and books, some of which date
from the 1400s; Step inside and you are in awe of the building’s design. RIGHT The Chapel is a work of art all in itself.

that would reap the most extraordinary
returns. He was the founder of modern
Cardiff and invested heavily in
developing South Wales’ coal and iron
industries. Dying at the age of 54, his
fortune passed to his six-month-old
son - the 3rd Marquess, aka John
Crichton-Stuart.
Not only did he inherit and continue
to grow a vast fortune, but John set
about accumulating knowledge at a
similar rate. He was fascinated by and
studied architecture, astrology, art,
languages, mythology and religion, all
driven by his love of travel – and he
was a prolific writer.
Shortly before Christmas in 1877, fire
severely damaged the family home and
the then 30-year-old John – by now
reportedly the world’s richest man - set
about rebuilding. As the tour guide tells
you on your visit, you have to
understand that there were never any
financial constraints in the design or
building works – and it shows.
The original Georgian wings
survived, and John Stuart and his team

of architects, stonemasons, craftsmen
and builders set about incorporating
these into his neo-Gothic masterpiece.
Described by many as “eccentric”, the
house is an extraordinary architectural
showcase.
Donna Chisholm, head of visitor
operations, describes your arrival:
“Step inside and you are in awe of the
building’s design. The entrance hall is
crafted from 20 different types of
marble quarried to order from sites
across Europe. The 80-feet high ceiling
makes you look up to spy a map of the
stars studded with glass crystals.
Signs of the zodiac and their seasons
illuminate stained-glass windows. It is
captivating.”

Many of the original house’s content
survived the fire, so you will see
furnishings, artwork and books – some
of which date from the 1400s. The
Chapel is a work of art – its floor is
typical of Medieval Italian architecture
and the same style can be found in the
Sistine Chapel.
A charitable trust now runs the
property as well as managing and
maintaining many more properties,
farms and forestry across the Isle of
Bute. Innovation remains at the heart of
all they do – reinvesting in the house
and across the estate and island,
running learning events, art exhibitions
and rural initiatives.
mountstuart.com

TIPS ON TRAVELLING...
Driving to the north of Scotland? Depending on your home location, it
can be a long trip. You can fly to Inverness from Belfast, Birmingham
and Manchester (with Loganair), Bristol (EasyJet), London (both
EasyJet and BA) enabling you to then hire a vehicle to explore. All
major hire companies operate from the airport.

coa stma g azi ne.co.uk

7 CO AST

An Enchanting Collection of Treehouses,
Shepherds Lodges & an American Airstream
Experience luxury and charm in the heart of the Devonshire countryside. Just a mile from the waters’ edge of
the beautiful River Dart, overlooking a private sun-dappled wooded valley, sits the stunning Dittisham Hideaway
with its back to nature atmoshere. The Hideaway is just outside the picturesque village of Dittisham, and is just a
10-minute drive from the scenic port of Dartmouth in South Devon

Call 01803 925034 or visit dittishamhideaway.co.uk

coast STAYCATIONS DEVON

ANDY COOPER discovers a tucked-away paradise
which offers the best of both worlds

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN The lakeside location is a strong selling point; Take some time out to
be pampered; Enjoy a special treatment at the Lake Spa.

or action and adventure.
The Water Sports Escape package
allows you to transform your break
into a water sports adventure, with the
chance to go paddleboarding on the
lake as well as heading to Bude for
surfing lessons. The Lake Spa Escape
takes pampering to the next level with
unlimited access to the Lake Spa
lounge, indoor pool and steam room as
well as a 60-minute spa treatment and
afternoon tea.
From its secluded yet accessible
Devon location, Clawford Lakes is
in the middle of its second holiday
season. Since opening in April 2022,
new accommodation has continually
been added to meet demand, including
seven further luxury cocoons, six floating

lodges and many more luxury holiday
lodges. Further accommodation has
been added this year including lodges,
holiday homes and exclusive family
pods.
Tucked away in a tranquil, remote
location the very isolation of the
Clawford Lakes site makes it even
more of a surprise when you arrive to
such luxury, seemingly in the middle of
nowhere. From the beautifully appointed
lodge we checked into with its
wonderful lakeside setting, right through
to the handy restaurant and superb
spa facilities, we found everything we
needed within a stone’s throw.
And if you do feel the need to get
off site then those beaches are but a
moment away, making this the ideal
spot to make an escape to the coast
whilst still enjoying the peace and
tranquillity of a rural location.
• The Water Sports Escape Package
and Lake Spa Escape Package are now
available to book. At time of writing the
Water Sports Escape Package is £120
per person and the Lake Spa Escape
Package is £99 per person. More details
at clawfordlakes.co.uk.

coa stma g azi ne.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHY: CLAWFORD LAKES

here is no greater fan of
the north Devon coast
than me. After years
spent living there and
loving it so much,
whenever I get the
chance to return I will always grab the
opportunity – it’s such a lovely part of
the world.
But I know that loveliness – and its
resulting popularity with visitors – can
occasionally come at a price and
that’s how busy it can get, especially
in the popular resorts. Now I am not
one of those ‘NIMBYs’ who want the
place for myself, accepting as I do that
the tourism pound helps the Devon
economy tick. But it does mean if you
find a quieter spot with easy access to
the coast then it is one to cherish.
And that’s why I am so enthused
by my recent visit to Clawford Lakes
Resort and Spa, a stunning 80-acre
Devon holiday destination, a short drive
from the north Devon coast, which
has just celebrated its first anniversary
by launching two new luxury escape
packages to enable guests to create
their perfect holiday. Both the Lake Spa
and Water Sports Escape packages are
available to book now and have been
created to cater for lovers of tranquillity

9 CO AST

coast STAYCATIONS COTTAGES

ANDY COOPER spends a weekend to
remember in a cute coastal cottage

PHOTOGRAPHY: FINEST STAYS

alcombe is pretty much a
town for walking around.
It’s not that the car is
banned – indeed one will
encounter vehicles
nudging their way around
crowds of holidaymakers, even on the
busiest of days. But it does make
sense to use your feet to get around.
And the same applies if you are
staying. You want to find a base which
allows you to pop in and out of the
town on foot – or on the water. And in
terms of ease of convenience for the
centre of Salcombe you really can’t
beat Victoria Quay. I have ambled
along the narrow pathway so many
times over the years and hankered
after spending some time in one of the
gorgeous terraced cottages along it,
facing as they do out over the water.
Well now I hanker no more thanks to
a stay at 7 Victoria Quay organised for
me by exclusive holiday home experts
Finest Stays. And with grandchildren in
tow our trip had all the makings of just
about the perfect family seaside stay.
And boy did 7 Victoria Quay deliver
on that – such a beautiful cottage in

1 0 C OA ST

c oas tmagazi ne.co.uk

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN The views from the cottage are amazing; The master bedroom is a
fabulous room; Relax in style at 7 Victoria Quay.

this amazing location.
The views from the cottage are
breathtaking – be it from the lovely
south-facing terrace outside or the
picture windows inside. Being in such
a central location, with epic views
over the estuary, past the Salcombe
Lifeboat towards the beaches of East
Portlemouth and the South Pool creek,
just sitting in the window looking out is
entertainment in itself.
7 Victoria Quay has been a family
holiday home for over 50 years and
has bags of character being an early
19th century, Grade II listed fisherman’s

cottage. The cottage is perfect for small
groups, families or couples wanting to
get away for a break and sleeps up to
six guests in two bedrooms.
Being in such a fabulous location it
is but a moment’s walk to catch one
of the pretty ferry boats departing from
the harbourside.
In our case we caught one to South
Sands for the extra special adventure
of being met by the sea tractor to
transport us onto the beach.
Salcombe is such a special town
anyway it is always a joy to visit. But
when you find yourself in just about
the prime town centre location in such
comfortable luxury then you have the
complete seaside holiday experience.
• Finest Stays never compromise
on comfort, style, elegance or
location. Stay in one of their exclusive
holiday homes dotted across
South Devon and chose from the
mighty, the pretty and the absurdly
quintessential. Whichever of their
homes you reserve you can expect
to experience laid back luxury in true
Devonian style. fineststays.co.uk

coast STAYCATIONS DORSET

PHOTOGRAPHY: SHARON GOBLE

The coastal communities of Seatown and Eype are a stone’s throw
away from each other on Dorset’s world-heritage Jurassic Coast.
SHARON GOBLE investigates them
hen a place is
called Seatown,
you can’t help
but arrive with
certain seaside
expectations.
Seatown in Dorset certainly delivers
coastal charm, although its name is
misleading because it’s not a town but
a hamlet of honey-coloured houses.
By the beach are two unexpected
delights: a fantastic pub serving food
and award-winning local real ales, and
a timber sauna hut on wheels. I’m here
to try them both out.
Three friends are joining me for a
communal sauna experience with a
difference; the Seaside Sauna Haus
is nothing like the saunas I’ve been
to before. For starters, it looks like a
shepherd’s hut, the glamping kind.
We arrive in our swimsuits with
towels and beach shoes, as per
instructions. There’s laughter as owner
Sarah Higgins hands us pointy felt
hats to help stop the heat going to our
heads. We don our pixie hats and off
we go, up the steps, through a small
changing lobby, and into the heat
generated by a wood-fired metal sauna
stove.
There’s convivial chatter with two of
Sarah’s regulars as we select our seats
on the wooden benches - the higher
you go, the hotter you get. There’s also
a curved cubby hole on the floor for
those seeking a gentle sauna. Best of
all, there’s a window to take in the view.
Between sweating it out in the

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN Family fun on Seatown Beach; Beer garden with a view at The
Anchor Inn; The chalet used as a filming location in the TV drama Broadchurch is metres from
the cliff edge at Eype.

sauna, we cool off in the sea. On our
final sauna session, Sarah comes
in for what turns out to be a blissful
finale. She adds water and essential
oils to the coals before wafting around
the scented steam by manipulating a
cotton towel. The ultimate inhalation to
clear our airways.
Sarah set up her sauna in 2020 after
a friend jokingly suggested the idea.
At the time, it was the only beachside
sauna on the South West coast, but
others have come along since as part
of a ‘new wave’.
Afterwards, it’s a 45-minute walk
along the South West Coast Path to
the beach at Eype (pronounced Eeep).

I discovered Eype last summer
when my family stayed at Eype Mouth
Chalet Park. Eype is steeped in history,
founded in the 7th century BC by
Greek traders from Epirus (hence the
name) after a shipwreck. Next came
farmers, fishermen, boatbuilders and
smugglers. Then, in the 1930s, the rich
and famous arrived, hosted in style
at the Bonville Hotel (now the Eype’s
Mouth Hotel).
That’s the potted history, but you can
read more on the information boards
inside the hut by the beach car park.
Eype is one of those rare beaches
unspoiled by a cafe, catering van or
kiosk. • seasidesaunahaus.co.uk

c oastma gaz ine.co.uk

1 1 CO AST

PHOTOGRAPH PAUL MELLING/SOUTH WEST COAST PATH ASSOCIATION

ABOVE Follow the waymarked route that runs parallel to the tracks and skirts the coastline of Carbis Bay.

Cornwall’s coastline has it all - dramatic cliffs, sheltered coves,
and awe-inspiring seascapes, says ALEX GREEN as she steps
out on the coast to enjoy five fabulous walks

H

ere is my selection of five of
the best walks for you to try
along the magical coastline
of Cornwall:

BEST FOR HIDDEN
BEACHES
Crackington Haven is a remote village
on the north Cornwall coast with a
small yet perfectly formed circular walk
that combines the coast with the
countryside. Start from the car park

1 2 C OA ST

c oas tmagazi ne.co.uk

and stride out along the coast path to
the magnificent viewpoint of Cambeak,
spotting seals on the rocks below,
while looking out for dolphins offshore.
The high cliffs are punctuated by
hanging valleys, where streams trickle
to the beach in small waterfalls. The
undulating path levels off via the inland
route as it drops down through the
beautiful Ludon valley, where the air fills
with birdsong and the woodland is
carpeted with bluebells in spring.

Along the way, you’ll encounter the
hidden beaches at Little Strand and
Strangles, with a rock arch at one
end carved out by the sea.

BEST FOR WALKS FROM
THE DOOR
A wild and windswept walk around the
rugged tip of The Lizard will be sure to
blow away the cobwebs as we emerge
from winter. The remote nature of this
peninsula makes for a great escape

coast STAYCATIONS CORNWALL

THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Lelant to St Ives branch line makes getting to this popular town a breeze; Make your way back to Bodinnick via
the ferry; The circular walk on both sides of the River Fowey near Bodinnick is a delight; The old engine house at Wheal Coates perches on the clifftops;.

BEST FOR TRAILS FROM
THE TRACKS
From the mainline train station at
Penzance via St Erth, the Lelant to St
Ives branch line makes getting to this
popular seaside town a breeze. Forget
jostling for a parking space in St Ives
and take time to appreciate the
landscape that’s inspired artists and
writers for generations.
Feel the sand between your toes as
you cross the dunes at Porth Kidney,
then follow the waymarked route that

runs parallel to the tracks and skirts the
coastline of Carbis Bay (approx. 4.5
miles/7.2km).

BEST FOR WILD
SWIMMING
The circular walk on both sides of the
River Fowey, taking in two ferry trips
from Bodinnick and Polruan, is a
rewarding walk. Author Kenneth
Grahame was inspired to create the
characters of Ratty and Toad in The
Wind in the Willows after visiting his
friend and fellow writer, Arthur Quiller
Couch, who once lived in Fowey.
Stepping off the ferry, walk through
ancient woodland where the smell of
wild garlic peppers the air in springtime
and bluebells line the forest floor. When
you reach Lantic Bay - a beautiful
horseshoe beach, take the opportunity
for a quick dip in the sea.
The sheltered cove has a white
sandy beach and crystal blue,
refreshing waters, which is perfect for
bathing.

BEST FOR PACKING A
PICNIC
The cliffs above Chapel Porth beach
are stained red as a result of the
mineralisation of the rocks almost 300
million years ago. Above them, the old
engine house at Wheal Coates
perches dramatically on the clifftops,
while the multi-coloured caves and the
natural arch at Chapel Porth beach
make it an excellent place to pause.
Catch low tide at Chapel Porth to
see the beach at its best and pack a
picnic to enjoy as you watch the sun
go down.
Afterwards, explore the mining and
wartime remains in Chapel Combe on
your way back to the popular surfers’
beach at Porthtowan (approx. 3.4
miles/5.5km).

FIND OUT MORE…
southwestcoastpath.org.uk
greatscenicrailways.co.uk/great-daysout/walks-and-trails
wildswimmingcornwall.co.uk

c oastma gaz ine.co.uk

ST IVES PHOTOGRAPH DEVON & CORNWALL RAIL PARTNERSHIP;
WHEAL COATES AND BODINNICK PHOTOGRAPH ALEX GREEN

from the everyday, where clifftop hotels
and cosy fisherman’s cottages provide
a walk from the door wherever you
happen to stay.
The traditional fishing port at
Cadgwith is a must-see location. From
Poltesco, the coast path wends its way
to Carleon Cove. Here you can visit the
remains of a Victorian factory that once
produced stoneware using serpentine
rock, a stone that’s unique to the
Lizard coast.

1 3 CO AST

coast STAYCATIONS COTTAGES

Ocean View is just 500 metres
from the beach.

The Sail Loft is a romantic hideaway.

Five fabulous coastal retreats
South west self-catering specialist LUXURY COASTAL has
solved your holiday cottage dilemmas by recommending
these properties which cater for every eventuality
The Hayloft is very
dog-friendly.

BEST FOR…MULTIGENERATIONAL

BEST FOR…OFF-THEBEATEN TRACK

Golden Meadow, Torcross, Devon
An achingly beautiful designer pad
with unparalleled sea views over Start
Bay. There’s oodles of space for the
extended family including several large
terraces for al fresco dining. Floor to
ceiling windows maximise the ocean
view. Sleeps 14 and two dogs.

1 The Old Signal House, Penlee
Point, Torpoint, Cornwall
This three-bedroom period property
directly overlooks the wild Cornish
coastline and was originally built as a
home for operators of the Eddystone
Lighthouse. The open plan lounge has
sea views from nearly every angle, and
guests can watch the sun set from the
furnished terrace. Sleeps six.

BEST FOR…COUPLES
PHOTOGRAPHY: LUXURY COASTAL

The Old Signal House overlooks
the wild Cornish coastline.

The Sail Loft, Maritime, Brixham,
Devon
A romantic hideaway centrally located
with views out over Brixham harbour.
The master suite has sliding doors onto
the private deck overlooking the sea – a
great spot for coffee or sundowners.
The bathroom has a walk-in rain
shower and double sinks. Sleeps two.

BEST FOR…BREAKFAST
IN BED
Ocean View, The Sands, Praa
Sands, Cornwall
Just 500 metres from the threemile-long beach at Praa Sands,
this contemporary home has large
communal areas and incredible sea

Golden Meadow features unparalleled
sea views over Start Bay.

views. There are several terraces for al
fresco dining and parents will adore the
spacious master ensuite which has a
private Juliet balcony overlooking the
ocean. Sleeps six.

BEST FOR…FOURLEGGED FRIENDS
The Hayloft, Watergate Bay,
Cornwall
A traditional stone barn conversion
situated on a working farm, just five
minutes’ drive from pooch-friendly
Watergate Bay. The contemporary
interiors belie the rural setting, with
two spacious bedrooms and a wood
burning stove for winter nights. There
is an outdoors terrace and shower –
perfectly placed for washing off sandy
paws
• luxurycoastal.co.uk; 0330 113 7005

c oastma gaz ine.co.uk

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coast STAYCATIONS ALDERNEY

ANDY COOPER takes a trip to one of the smaller
Channel Islands and enjoys a luxurious welcome

PHOTOGRAPHY: CATHERINE DAVIES

f one considers that the last time I
visited Alderney my oldest son was
a babe in arms and now he is a 30+
six-footer, then the memory will be a
little hazy but I do recall the island as
being a wonderfully isolated spot
with magnificent beaches and a
somewhat untouched feel.
Well reader, having just returned from
another visit, I can tell you not a great
deal has changed in the intervening
years – and yet there has been one
significant update on the island which
makes Alderney somewhere I will be
not be leaving it so long to visit again.
And that change is The Blonde
Hedgehog. Thus uber chic hotel
created from the restoration of three
historical buildings in the centre of Saint
Anne is reason enough to pack your
bags and head for Alderney, never
mind the charms of the island itself
(and they are considerable).
Named after the quirky off-white
hedgehogs which can occasionally

Alderney is an unspoilt gem.

be seen around Alderney, The Blonde
Hedgehog has nine stylish rooms, a
charming three-bedroom cottage and
a four-bedroom farmhouse to offer
guests…so, take your pick!
We stayed in a beautifully-appointed
room with a magnificent-sized
bathroom and a sitting room to while
away our downtime. Not that there will
be much downtime on Alderney while
you stay if you want to make the most
of this charming island.
I was lucky enough to be
accompanied on an electric bike
tour by Roland Gauvain, CEO of the
Alderney Wildlife Trust, who gave me
an informed and insightful morning’s

ride around an island which offers
history, wildlife and natural beauty by
the bucketload.
All that fresh air makes a man
hungry and so a return to The Blonde
Hedgehog and its wonderful restaurant
was very welcome. Whether you want
fine dining or a quick snack and a
drink, it’s all here. Service levels were
special too – we were treated royally
during our stay and now consider
ourselves proper disciples of all The
Blonde Hedgehog has to offer. It’s a
magnificent hotel on a magical island –
just about the perfect combination.
• blondehedgehog.com
• visitalderney.com

IN THE AIR WITH AURIGNY

The Blonde Hedgehog
has nine stylish rooms.

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We travelled to Alderney on the airline Aurigny in what feels like your own
private aircraft with a personal pilot and your own window seat to enjoy!
They have direct flights from Southampton and Guernsey and through
routes via Guernsey from Birmingham, Bristol, Dublin, East Midlands, Exeter,
Ibiza, London Gatwick, Malaga and Manchester. aurigny.com

coast STAYCATIONS CORNWALL

Love is in the air for SU CARROLL as she heads for a
special Cornwall retreat on a landmark date

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN Wood and natural materials are used in the kitchen area where plenty
of green softens the hard, industrial fittings; Relax by the outdoor log burner in the evening; The
outdoor space at Little Portion with pretty planting and a hot tub.

and there was fizz in the fridge. We
instantly felt at home.
The wonderful thing about going
away and staying in a cottage is
that it is very different from our own
experience of home. Yes it has all mod
cons – a TV with all the usual bells and
whistles, wi-fi, beautifully appointed
bathrooms, comfy beds with Egyptian
cotton bedsheets and all the kitchen
paraphernalia we are familiar with – but
it also has a quaint, otherworldliness
about it that makes you think of a doll’s
house for grown-ups.
It stakes its claim as a holiday home.
Unique Homestays don’t just furnish
their properties, they ‘curate’ them.

They upcycle, recycle and take shabby
chic to a new level.
There is nothing ordinary about
these homes. Everywhere you look
are clever features – a trunk in the
lounge becomes a bespoke table,
an old mangle in the kitchen is an
impressive choice for a plant shelf.
Metal lampshades, exposed industrial
trunking, wooden planks as ‘wallpaper’
and lots of natural materials are in use.
But comfort is not sacrificed for style.
Sofas made for reading the Sunday
papers sit by the log burner and a big
bed is nestled under the eaves for
warmth.
It doesn’t stop there. Outside is just
as clever – a hot tub, an outdoor log
burner, quirky corrugated iron roof and
interesting planting. Simply magical.
• Unique Homestays have several
cottages in this lovely part of Cornwall
as well as some spectacular properties
on the coast and inland all around the
UK. Heartily recommended for making
memories. Visit uniquehomestays.com
or call 01637 881183.

c oastma gaz ine.co.uk

PHOTOS: UNIQUE HOMESTAYS

or those who have
memories as long as mine,
the phrase ‘Love is in the
air’ instantly conjures up
the poppy 1978 disco hit of
that name by Australian
John Paul Young. It was a summer
smash the year I got married and
memories are accompanied by the
song and its catchy lyrics about love
being in ‘the whisper of the tree’ and
‘the thunder of the sea’…oh, oh, oh.
I’ll do the maths so you don’t have to
– that was 45 years ago (it’s a sapphire
anniversary apparently). So naturally we
wanted to do something to celebrate.
But how to mark the occasion in style?
Seekng a little luxury, from our home in
Plymouth we skipped over the border
via the Tamar Bridge and headed west
to the north Cornwall coast.
Our weekend retreat was Little
Portion, a quaint cottage in Cubert.
Praise be for Google Maps which
took us straight to the powder blue
front door. It is one of the jewels in the
Unique Homestays crown and is aptly
named, with just one room upstairs,
the bedroom. Opening the door we
were greeted by a soundtrack of love
songs playing, the house was warm

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coast STAYCATIONS YORKSHIRE

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN North Landing, a perfect spot for fish and chips; Scarborough Harbour with lobster pots; Scarborough Castle keep.

PHOTOGRAPHY: SUE CADE; KEVIN GROOCOCK; ANDY LAMPARD

Puffins, dinosaurs and Dracula – SUE CADE gets her
fangs into highlights of the East Yorkshire coastline

Y

orkshire is a heck of a large
county, so big that it’s
sub-divided into four distinct
regions. To the east, the
45-mile coastline offers a diverse range
of experiences.
Take the resort of Scarborough;
it may have its fair share of ‘kiss me
quick’ vibes but also presents plenty of
intriguing insights into the region’s past
as well as its contemporary culture.
Visiting the unspoilt Scarborough
Castle high above the town gives a real

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taste of this magnificent coast, with
panoramic views taking in both the
north and south beaches below.
At the beautiful Rotunda Museum
there’s a sense of taking a gigantic
step back in time, packed as it is with
dinosaurs, fossils and stories of fossil
hunters. Close to the old harbour is
West Pier Studios where you might
meet characterful artist Captain Ants,
whose distinctive artwork captures
Scarborough’s personality perfectly.
For foodies, the town boasts

a real gem of a restaurant in Dan
Hargreaves Embers, wood-fired
cooking showcasing the most delicious
Yorkshire produce.
You don’t have to be a twitcher to
enjoy the sights and sounds of sea
birds nesting, and a visit to RSPB
Bempton Cliffs evokes the sensation
of being part of a David Attenborough
documentary with glorious gannets,
pretty kittiwakes and chocolate brown
guillemots.
The excitement of puffin spotting

coast STAYCATIONS YORKSHIRE
A TALE OF
TWO HOTELS
Two independently owned hotels
with very different characters both
offer guests an equally convivial
East Yorkshire welcome.

ABOVE Will you get to see puffins on your visit to the Yorkshire coast?

is palpable in the crowds of visitors,
there’s something incredibly special
about these clownlike birds with their
colourful bills and orange legs. The
visitor centre here is perfect for families
and you can hire binoculars to witness
the playful antics of the birdlife up close.
After a stop for fish and chips
from the award winning Lighthouse
Fisheries in Flamborough enjoyed
overlooking the sea at North Landing,
it’s northwards to Whitby, well known
for its association with legendary
vampire, Dracula. Writer Bram Stoker
was inspired by his holidays in the town
and, as the fantastically cheesy Dracula
Experience explains, this is where the
evil count first arrived in England.
But there’s more to Whitby than the
undead! Charming, cobbled streets are
home to an eclectic mix of tiny cottages
and quirky shops, many offering Whitby
Jet, the black gemstone formed from
the fossilised remains of the monkey
puzzle tree.
A set of 199 steps take you up to
Whitby Abbey, set on a headland.
The English Heritage-owned site is
laden with atmosphere; enormous
pillars, some intact and others mere
stumps, giving an indication of just how
imposing it once was.
Viewing this landmark from the sea
gives a better impression of how it
dominates the skyline. Coastal Cruises’
eye-catching yellow boats run regular
short rides close to the shoreline as
well as longer trips for wannabe whale
watchers and sea anglers.
The bracing briny sea air is likely to

sharpen anyone’s appetite, and The
Quayside is a good spot for lunch with
the lure of its attractive interior and
generous portions.
A gently uphill takes you to Whitby
Museum and Pannett Art Gallery,
set in the environs of Pannett Park.
The gallery hosts a programme of
exhibitions, and for me it’s a treat to
view work by the Staithes group of
artists, splendidly evocative of the local
countryside and coast.
A trip to Hayburn Wyke is a double
win, not only is there a waterfall
cascading on to the beach below, but
also an inn with a warm welcome from
Hannah and Bobbie behind the bar.
Here you can pick up the Cleveland
Way. The trail is actually 109 miles long
and takes in the North Yorkshire moors
before heading coastwards, but this
section hugs the cliffs. It’s possible
to take a bus most of the way there
and walk back into Scarborough,
but there’s a charming circular route,
veering inland to the Cinder Track. It’s a
defunct railway track, a peaceful walk
with a profusion of wildflowers in spring.
By contrast, Sewerby Hall near
Bridlington is packed with families
boisterously enjoying the grounds.
This historic Georgian country house is
now owned by the local authority and
combines a zoo, landscaped gardens
and exhibitions in the main building.
• Sue was a guest of England’s
Coast (englandscoast.com),
Discover Yorkshire Coast
(discoveryorkshirecoast.com) and Visit
East Yorkshire (visiteastyorkshire.co.uk).

Wrea Head
Hall, Scalby
Built in 1881,
this gothic
country house
was once the home of John
Edward Ellis MP and his wife Maria
Rowntree of the famous
‘chocolate’ Rowntrees family.
This is a hotel made for whiling
away the hours in relaxing
surroundings, from the extensive
grounds to the pretty conservatory
and contemporary bar perfect for a
‘winding down’ drink after a busy
day exploring the area.
The 24 bedrooms and suites are
exceptionally stylish with a sense
of tradition in the furnishings, many
with views across the grounds and
National Park. wreaheadhall.co.uk
Highfield
House, Great
Driffield
By contrast,
Highfield Hall is
a fanciful experience of exuberant
colour and character. Each suite
has something different to
commend it, from the four poster
opulence of the deep blue 1610 to
Kingsland’s expansive white
elegance – a room you’ll find it
hard to leave in the morning.
Quirkiness abounds throughout.
In Yes Mallard a train set runs
overhead, the splendid Library Bar
is stuffed with curiosities and every
corner reveals yet another surprise
– check out the bizarre Barbie
collection and make sure you visit
the lavish powder room.
Delights abound in the
restaurant too, where head chef
David Prysor Jones showcases the
best of East Yorkshire produce.
thehighfieldhouse.com

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1 9 CO AST

EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF COASTAL
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coast STAYCATIONS SUSSEX

SHARON GOBLE profiles a trio of lesser-known places in
East and West Sussex which are well worth a visit

PHOTOGRAPHY: SHARON GOBLE

SHOREHAM-BY-SEA,
WEST SUSSEX
Sandwiched between the popular
seaside resorts of Brighton and
Worthing, it’s easy to drive past
Shoreham without a second glance.
Stop for a while and you’ll discover a
charming coastal town.
If you arrive from inland, the concrete
flyover off the A27 is not a sight of
beauty. Put that behind you. As you
descend into Shoreham, the Adur
estuary gently opens up with the
imposing chapel of Lancing College on
the hillside.
The partially pedestrianised town
centre encircles the ancient church
of St Mary de Haura (at the harbour),
one of Sussex’s most important parish
churches during the Medieval period.
The surrounding streets are full of
characterful period properties.
A striking 12th-century building on
the High Street with a chequerboard
flint and limestone façade is believed to
be the country’s oldest secular building
and is a Scheduled Ancient Monument,
on a par with Stonehenge! It now
houses Marlipins Museum.
The Adur Ferry Bridge, a modern
swing bridge, carries pedestrians and
cyclists across to Shoreham Beach,
where swanky modern villas are fast
replacing older houses and bungalows
along the waterfront.
• enjoyshorehambythesea.co.uk

PEVENSEY & PEVENSEY
LEVELS, EAST SUSSEX
The lost seaport of Pevensey, where
William the Conqueror landed in 1066,

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN On the beach looking towards Seven Sisters; the old timber sea
defences at Pevensey Bay; the boardwalk at Shoreham beach, looking towards Worthing.

is well worth a visit. Historic buildings in
the village include an old mint house,
where coins were struck in the 11th
century, and a former courthouse with
original cells dating to the 16th century.
You can’t miss Pevensey’s
impressive Norman Castle, constructed
on the site of the Roman garrison fort
of Anderida. It’s now some distance
inland but once stood on a peninsula
jutting into Pevensey Bay.
To get a feel for this part of East
Sussex, follow the 1066 Country Walk
between Pevensey Castle and Rye.
The 31-mile trail winds through historic
towns, quaint villages and varied
countryside, including marshes.
• explorewealden.co.uk

SEAFORD AND THE
SEVEN SISTERS
Fancy taking in the sea air somewhere

a little more low-key than Brighton or
Eastbourne? The genteel East Sussex
town of Seaford is often overlooked.
Seaford was once a thriving port where
smuggling and shipwrecking were
rife. The wreckers were nicknamed
‘Seaford Shags’!
The train from London will take
you to the town centre, where you’ll
find a cluster of independent shops,
cafes and pubs in period buildings. It’s
a short walk to the promenade that
overlooks a sweeping shingle beach
framed on either side by impressive
chalk cliffs.
Visit the Martello Tower museum,
follow the heritage trail or walk from
Seaford Head to Cuckmere Haven for
stunning views of the Seven Sisters
and explore the hidden beach at the
foot of Hope Gap.
• visitseaford.co.uk

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coast STAYCATIONS WALES
The mysterious Preseli Hills hide
their secrets beneath low cloud.

PHOTOGRAPHY: OWEN HOWELLS PHOTOGRAPHY

ALF ALDERSON jumps onto an e-mountain
bike for a ride with history beneath the pedals

W

e’re located in a special
place, with the Irish Sea
on one side and the
Preseli Hills on the
other,” Ed Sykes told me when I went
e-mountain biking with his guiding
company Hidden Routes.
“This means our routes take in a
huge variety of scenery, from beaches
and coastline to wild moorland
and hidden valleys, forests and
woodlands. Relatively few people visit
this part of Pembrokeshire, and even
at the height of summer the trails we
ride are virtually deserted compared
to the local beaches and coast paths;

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what’s more, the area is steeped in
ancient history and you can virtually
ride back into the past”.
Hidden Routes operates from Ed’s
award-winning hotel Llys Meddyg
in Newport. Clients are provided
with high-end Orange e-mountain
bikes (plus cycle helmets) along
with accommodation at the hotel,
a Georgian town house which
specialises in offering locally sourced
menus, bright, airy rooms and a very
laid back atmosphere.
Hidden Routes’ guides are all local
mountain bikers with decades of
experience and know where all the

Wide, leafy bridleways
provide fun downhills.

coast STAYCATIONS WALES
HISTORY
ALL AROUND

Newport Bay, 1,300-feet below
the high point of the ride.
Stopping to wet
the whistle at
Bessie’s is
almost
compulsory!

best trails are to be found, whatever
the season and whatever the
weather.
My day out with Ed began with
a longish climb from Newport on
bridleways and country lanes that
took us high into the Preseli Hills
(easy on an e-bike!), from where we
enjoyed views that encompassed the
whole of Cardigan Bay. Ed assured
me that had it been a little clearer we
would have been able to see Ireland’s
Wicklow Hills on the other side of the
Irish Sea.
We then hurtled down a leafy
bridleway into the bucolic Gwaun
Valley, stopping briefly at the
venerable Dyffryn Arms, aka
‘Bessie’s’ after it’s characterful,
no-nonsense landlady. The tiny pub
has remained unchanged over the
decades, with beer served in jugs
straight from the barrel through a
serving hatch.
A stiff climb (steep enough to raise
a sweat even when riding an e-bike)
took us back up into the Preselis,
which at their highest point reach
almost 2000-feet, and briefly along
the 5,000-year-old Golden Road, a
trail that may have been used by the
builders of Stonehenge to transport
the Pembrokeshire bluestones that

make up inner ring of the iconic
prehistoric monument.
After a short, bouncy ride across
a mix of dirt track and moorland we
veered off into Pantmaenog Forest,
where the open fire roads allowed
us to zoom around at full speed with
much of Pembrokeshire spread out
below, before an exhilarating descent
to Rosebush village where lunch
beckoned at the quirky Tafarn Sinc, a
Victorian inn constructed from sheets
of corrugated iron.
Above the sawdust-strewn floor,
huge flitches of ham hung from
the rafters and ancient agricultural
implements and old black and white
photographs adorned the walls, the
mobile signal was dodgy at best and
whilst the 21st century didn’t seem as
distant as when we were riding the
Golden Road it still felt a fair way off.
Our après-lunch ride back to
Newport began with a flowing climb
back up through Pantmaenog Forest,

Pembrokeshire is littered with
reminders of its distant past,
many of which can be reached
by bike. These include Pentre
Ifan dolmen (see feature), the
mysterious row of Neolithic
standing stones known as Parc y
Meirw above the Gwaun Valley,
the remains of a spectacularly
located Iron Age hill fort on the
summit of Garn Fawr on the
coast near Fishguard and the
impressive Carreg Samson
dolmen, above the pretty coastal
village of Abercastle.

which on an e-bike is almost as much
fun as the downhill, from where we
rode out across open moorland then
down into the ancient woodlands
of Tycanol Nature Reserve, passing
within sight of the 5,500-year-old
Pentre Ifan dolmen before a lovely
high-speed meander along the banks
of the River Nevern, then on to the
huge golden sweep of Newport Bay.
From here it was a five-minute
scoot back to Llys Meddyg, where
a hot shower and a tasty dinner
awaited – which, even though I’d had
the help of a motor on my ride, I felt
was well deserved.
• Hidden Routes offer two-day’s
guided riding with bike hire (including
cycling helmet) and two-night’s
accommodation (including breakfast
and dinner) at Llys Meddyg for £349
per person based on two sharing.
Half-day guided rides are also
available for £75 including bike and
helmet hire. hiddenroutes.co.uk

DIFFERING DATE…
The residents of the small villages and hamlets that dot the Gwaun Valley
celebrate New Year on January 13, following the Julian calendar, which was
abolished in the rest of Britain in 1752. The celebration is known as ‘Hen
Galan’, or ‘old New Year’.

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coast STAYCATIONS GUERNSEY

Wild swimming
is one of the
most popular
activities in
Guernsey.

Eateries pride themselves
on using locally sourced,
fresh ingredients.

IDEAL FOR AN
AUTUMN GETAWAY
Explore, eat and recharge on the Islands
of Guernsey this September
hidden gem in the British Isles, the
Islands of Guernsey are the ideal
spot for an early autumn getaway.
With a milder climate than the
mainland, summer weather extends
well into September, and October
offers the perfect time for recharging
on a short break.
There’s so much to explore on the
five Islands of Guernsey. Try your hand
at paddle boarding and kayaking, head
out on thrilling rib voyages and
coasteering tours, or learn about
history and wildlife on a guided tour
during the Autumn Walking Festival.
Each of the smaller isles; Herm,
Sark, Alderney and Lihou can be easily
reached from Guernsey. Island
hopping is one of the best ways to
discover all the activities on offer and
see the unique culture and landscapes
of each island.
The Islands have an impressive (and

PHOTO CREDITS: VISIT GUERNSEY

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well-deserved) gastronomic reputation.
You can enjoy steak and seafood in
Guernsey’s capital, St Peter Port,
overlooking the harbour, savour fish
and chips along the coast or try
homemade gâche mélée in cliff-top
cafés.
If you’re looking to get a taste of local
culture, head to St Peter Port, situated
on the east coast of Guernsey. It’s
cobbled streets blend history with
excellent restaurants and independent
shops. Take a wander to Victor Hugo’s
house, now a museum, or out to
Castle Cornet - an 800-year-old
fortress out in the harbour.
For those looking to recharge,
wellness activities form an organic part
of island life. From wild swimming to
cycling, hiking in nature to grounding
beach yoga, there’s plenty to enjoy.
If you’re heading island hopping, the
car-free lanes of Herm and Sark are

The only Renoir exhibition in the
world in 2023 - Renoir in
Guernsey, 1883 - will celebrate
the 140th anniversary of Renoir’s
stay in Guernsey this autumn.
The collaboration between the
Musée des Impressionnismes
Giverny, Guernsey Museums
and local charity Art for
Guernsey, will bring together
works related to Renoir’s time
on-island for the community to
enjoy.
There will be a fine art
exhibition at Candie Museum,
with other exhibitions and
activities also planned at the
Priaulx Library, the Renoir Walk
and Art for Guernsey’s Gallery in
the Old Quarter of St Peter Port.
A public photography
exhibition is also taking place,
where participants will be
encouraged to take photos of
the locations painted by Renoir
and share them on social media
using the #RenoirSnaps for the
chance to have their work
exhibited.
• artforguernsey.com

ideal for a mindful walk or cycle in the
late summer sun.
You’ll find boutique accommodation
across the islands, from five star luxury
spa hotels and converted farmhouses
to renovated seaside towers and
shepherd’s huts.
The Islands also offer a range of
hotels and self-catering
accommodation for a family half-term
holiday. • visitguernsey.com
Enjoy walking on the
Islands - like here on Sark.

RENOIR’S PAINTING OF MOULIN HUET BAY: ART FOR GUERNSEY

EXCLUSIVE
RENOIR
EXHIBITION

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Impressive Holiday Homes with
Sea Views in Northumberland
W: coquetcottages.co.uk | T: 01665 710700 | E: info@coquetcottages.co.uk

coast STAYCATIONS ESSEX
You could even spend
the night on a traditional
Thames Sailing Barge.

The Maldon District is the perfect place
for your next coastal short break.

The Maldon District draws migrating birds and filmmakers alike
with the unique beauty of its saltmarsh landscape
Maldon is a
delightful ancient
market town.

The mighty sea lock links the Chelmer &
Blackwater Navigation and the Blackwater
Estuary, at Heybridge Basin.

PHOTOGRAPHY: PAULA FREEMAN; JOHN GUIVER

Marvel at the
unique beauty
of the saltmarsh
landscape.

W

ith 75 miles of coastline
to explore, the Maldon
District is the perfect
place for your next
coastal short break:
Tollesbury – at the mouth of the
River Blackwater, the village has
weather-boarded sail lofts, a salt-water
lido and extensive nature reserves.
Osea Island – this private island
resort and its treacherous tidal
causeway are the setting for the Jude
Law film The Third Day and Daniel
Radcliffe’s The Woman in Black.
Heybridge Basin – the mighty sea
lock links the Chelmer & Blackwater

Navigation and the Blackwater Estuary,
with great walks, pubs and tearooms.
Maldon – an ancient market town,
home to the iconic Maldon Salt, with
boutique shops and restaurants and
Grade I Listed buildings including the
15th century Moot Hall.
Bradwell-on-Sea – overlooking a
beach of cockleshells, the tranquil St
Peter-on-the-Wall chapel was built in
654AD and is still a place of pilgrimage.
Burnham-on-Crouch – the
second largest town with a marina,
plenty of accommodation and
restaurants.
Whether you are planning a 75-mile

hike along the length of the Saltmarsh
Trail or a romantic short break, there
are places to stay for every occasion,
including boutique and budget hotels,
campsites and self-catering.
You could even spend the night on a
private island or aboard a traditional
Thames Sailing Barge!
Eating out is equally diverse, from a
real ale pub that’s been pulling pints for
500 years to a glitzy cocktail bar,
Maldon oysters to authentic Italian
pizza, you will find something in the
Maldon District to make your mouth
water.
• visitmaldondistrict.co.uk

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PHOTOGRAPHY: GARY LAWSON; JAMIE DOBSON; ENGLISH HERITAGE

coast STAYCATIONS NORTHUMBERLAND

Known for its mighty castles and lighthouses, the Northumberland
coast is great for exploring by car, boat or on foot. RICHARD
BRYSON stays in beautiful Bamburgh and seeks out a memoriam
for a descendent on Holy Island

O

riginally this was to be a
paean to Northumberland’s
“undiscovered coast”, an
area rich in history and
interesting places to visit but not one
usually congested with tourists.
So what’s changed? Staff at Holy
Island’s museum put it down to Covid,
with the difficulties or bans on travelling
abroad necessitating a switch to
exploring Britain’s countryside.
England’s north east coast became a
relatively ‘new’ attraction for many. “We

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even had people from Cornwall
choosing to holiday here as their own
county was becoming too busy in the
summer,” was one comment.
This increase in footfall was noted by
other people I talked to in and around
Bamburgh but it doesn’t detract from it
being a lovely place for a holiday or
short break. It remains a coast with
drama; all those majestic castles and a
rocky shoreline.
Anyone with an imaginative nature
can half close their eyes, scan the

sometimes brooding horizons and
picture the dreaded sight of Viking
longships heading for shore. These
Norsemen attacked nearby Lindisfarne/
Holy Island in 793, and pillaged
Bamburgh in 993, though the latter was
always under Anglo-Saxon rule.
Our base for a short stay was
a superb holiday cottage within a
20-minute walk of Bamburgh, the
royal capital of the ancient kingdom of
Northumbria. It’s a delightful walk too;
when we visited it was along fieldside

coast STAYCATIONS NORTHUMBERLAND
WHERE TO STAY

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN Bamburgh Castle overlooks a dog-friendly sandy beach; Moody and
magnificent…Bamburgh Castle; Lindisfarne Priory; Mellow yellow…gorse at Bamburgh Golf Club.

footpaths and through a hillside
pasture full of sheep and gambolling
lambs.
The village’s castle is almost always
in view and is well worth your time.
From being an impenetrable Norman
stronghold it became home to a
succession of kings and the first castle
in England to fall to gunpowder in the
Wars of the Roses.
Nowadays this mighty clifftop
structure is home to the Armstrong
family who have turned it into a
multifaceted tourist attraction. Within
its walls is the Armstrong and Aviation
Museum celebrating the pioneering
innovations of William Armstrong and
his Elswick Works on Tyneside.
Look out for a unique collection of
aviation artefacts from the First and
Second World Wars. In the Keep Hall
you will find a chilling array of armoury
and there is a section showing figures
and garments from the Saxon-set The
Last Kingdom TV series.
To complete your visit, the castle’s

Clock Tower Cafe and Tack Room Cafe
offer meals and homebaked treats. We
found the staff very welcoming and
informative, and dog owners should
note, pets are allowed in the castle
grounds provided they are on leads.

AMAZING GRACE
Grace Darling’s role in the rescue of
shipwrecked survivors is celebrated
in a museum at the other end of the
village.
It’s a little gem with enough
attractively assembled information on
show to satisfy a quick 20-minute visit
as well as rewarding an hour’s stay.
In 1838 Grace and her father
risked their lives to help the crew
and passengers of the previously
considered unsinkable steamship
Forfarshire, which had struck Big
Harcar rock, part of the Farne Islands,
during a fierce storm.
“People are amazed when they see
the size of boat Grace had to row and
hold steady while a handful

We were at a spacious and very
well equipped cottage called The
Duke, part of the Bamburgh First
collection of holiday properties,
within an easy walk of the village.
It has four double bedrooms
with each bedroom having its own
en suite. Downstairs is the master
bedroom with a marble en suite
plus both bath and shower, and
stretches from the back to the
front of the ground floor and out
through the French doors to the
terrace which looks onto fields.
Upstairs there are another three
bedrooms each with their own en
suite toilets and showers. Outside
the French doors there is a terrace
with a private jacuzzi, outdoor
dining area, barbecue and a small
lawn which looks out over fields.
Guests also have access to the
‘Gathering Place’ a renovated
detached farm building in a
courtyard comprising a Wii and a
table tennis table, newly-built gym,
full size tennis court and also
domes, which are perfect to sit in
and enjoy the countryside views.
Netflix is included in all
Bamburgh First properties, as is a
portable Bose Bluetooth speaker,
easy lighting fire logs and a box of
games that include Scrabble,
Cluedo and Monopoly. The owner
has also provided personal
touches such as a hand selected
welcome pack, a voucher for a
pound of the famous Bamburgh
Banger sausages and his own list
of the top 21 things to do whilst
spending a week in the area.
For prices and more information
go to bamburghfirst.co.uk

The living room at
Duke’s Cottage.

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coast STAYCATIONS NORTHUMBERLAND
DINING OUT

Inside the Grace
Darling Museum.

PHOTOGRAPHY: THE GRACE DARLING MUSEUM

of survivors were taken to safety. It’s
a mark of her strength and courage,”
says RNLI heritage development
manager Leigh Venus who looks after
the museum.
Grace became a heroine of the
Victorian era with admirers and wellwishers seeking locks of her hair and
strips of her clothing. Though her fame
was worldwide, she didn’t like the
attention, hoping to be able to get on
with her normal life. Sadly she died of
tuberculosis four years after the rescue.
The Darling family lighthouse home at
Longstone is the furthest of the Farne
Islands from the Bamburgh coast. They
can all be visited on guided boat trips.

MYSTICAL ISLAND
This brings us to Holy Island. You get
there along a narrow causeway which
becomes flooded and inaccessible
twice a day so it’s important to check
the tides and safe crossing times.
A family connection was partly the
reason to seek out this mystical island
that’s long been a place of pilgrimage
but also houses a castle, priory, pubs,
cafes, galleries and a museum. My
great grandfather had been vicar here

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in 1893 and we found his name on
plaques in St Mary the Virgin church
and at an RNLI museum on the beach.
I was also able to play a few holes
at Bamburgh Golf Club, surely one of
England’s most scenic seaside courses.
Down the coast at Dunstanburgh there
is another good one and we found the
time to walk from Craster to the castle
ruins there.
About an hour’s drive south from
Bamburgh, Alnwick lays claim to
being the most picturesque market
town in Northumberland. The castle
and gardens certainly enhance its
appeal. And there’s yet another castle
at nearby Warkworth - this one might
even trump the rest in terms of size and
fortifications.
As I’ve mentioned there are plenty
of places to visit that are a short car
journey away but there’s much to be
said for putting your best feet forward
and strolling along Bamburgh’s streets,
or along the beach and sand dunes. If
you are lucky, like us, you might spot
dolphins rolling and leaping in the
waves not far from the shore. A truly
magical sight.
More at visitnorthumberland.com.

Two places stood out for us on our
visit and are recommended. The
locals call The Potted Lobster
Bamburgh’s first serious fish
restaurant and there’s no doubting
the quality of the seafood
(thepottedlobster.co.uk). Every
chef mentioned in a food feature is
‘passionate’ (they’d be something
wrong if they were described as
merely ‘quite good’) but it’s clear
head chef Richard Sim is
enthused by, and enjoys working
with, ingredients from the
surrounding shore and farms. I
loved his hake with a lobster and
truffle mayo plus fries and ‘Sim’s
Smoked Haddock Chowder’.
Not far away at Craster, The Jolly
Fisherman
(thejollyfishermancraster.co.uk)
slightly undersells itself from the
outside but enter and make
yourself comfortable in the lovely,
nautically themed two-tiered
dining rooms. While overlooking
the little harbour and sea (and with
Dunstanburgh castle in the
distance) you can feast on their
crab soup, superb luxury fish pie
and - my daughter can testify crunchy squid rings and a very
tasty vegan curry.
Special mention should also go to
Bamburgh butchers R Carter and
Son (bamburghbutcher.co.uk).
They are famous locally for their
sausages and there is much more
to please hungry carnivores.
Hake and fries at
The Potted Lobster.

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