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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.

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;,«^^ V^i^^B'St'S^ISf^"^*^-

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The Blue Book of
Men's Tailoring

Copyright

CROONBORG SARTORIAL
New York-Chicago
1907

II

CO.

IV

GR^Miy EBITIOH
°/

SUPREME SYSTEM
FOR. PR.ODUCING

MEN'S GARMENTS
SCIENCE

By
Frederick T. Croonborg

Published by the

CROONBORG S^RTORIJiL
1181-83

Broadway

NEW YORK

CO,

183-189 Dearborn St.

CHICAGO

LIBRARY of CONGRESS
Two Cooles Received

JUL

9 190?

yj OooyiirM Entry

ytCL^f 6'./ 907
^LASS 'a. XXC, NO.

COPY

B.

-^

1
*

(

Introduction
When
there

no doubt that

is

the best

way

followed

it.

to

human

race,

in

weaving the leaves together she used some method which was

to her

mind

first

garment worn by one

produce the apron which was the progenitor of the multitude of garments which have

Ever since the

earliest times there

most earnest students
rules

of the

Eve, in the Garden of Eden, fashioned the

of the centuries

which would produce,

for the

have been "systems"

in cutting,

and the brightest minds, the

have devoted their energies to finding a

making

garments and the

of

fitting of the

set of

human

mathematical

form, an

infalli-

ble method.

For the foundation

human body

of the science of

follows approximately the

garment cutting some

same

which

will serve as a

is

necessary.

The

even when the variations of stature and curva-

lines,

ture are extreme, and the average proportions of the different
tables

system

sort of a

members may be reduced

to a set of

ground work on which to erect the superstructure which produces the

perfect garment.

many

In so

same.

Most

many

years of study there have been evolved

cutters are firmly

wedded

they aim to achieve, and would in

to the

many

different

arrangement which has secured for them the

cases destroy any other.

supports him over the stream although there

methods whose goal was the

may

be

many weak

result

Every one praises the bridge that
points in

it

which would not bear

the weight of others.

The

originator of a system of garment cutting, through the very study to prepare himself and

the observation and trial to which he

must subject

strong and weak points of any method, and

work could be

eliminated,

his system,

is

eminently qualified to judge of the

the personal element and the just pride in his

if

would usually be an impartial

critic.

But

this is too

much

to expect

own
from

a mortal.

Every system has

The

its

strong points, each

earnest pioneers in the science,

succeeding generations, are worthy of
easier

way

The

to

all

its

weak

who gave

ones.

their best

thought and work for the benefit of

honor, and to each student

who has

discovered a

new and

do a hard thing due credit should be given.

object of this

work

is,

condemn previous

therefore, not to

their value as pioneers, enabling others to take

efforts,

but rather to acknowledge

up the science where they

left off,

and thus, building

block by block, the edifice will in the end be a beautiful and worthy one.
If all

men were

cast in one mold, or

if all

were clothed with the same material,

easy to produce an ideal system, by which a cutter could with his square and tape

it

line,

would be
following

exact mathematical rules, construct garments which would be absolutely satisfactory to his customer.

But as men are

of different minds, of

varying proportions,

and choose

to

clothe

themselves in a

diversity of materials, the author

ment

normal male

for the

figure,

laid the foundation

by a simple system has

then shows

how

his pattern

may

which produces a gar-

be changed to meet the requirements

of taller or shorter, larger or smaller than the average, or to cover defects of figure.

Theory Justified
We
We
We
We

have heard

of

good as well as bad

have seen two persons working

cutters.

at the

have seen proportions used with good

same cutting board with

effect

where

have seen cutters using long measures who were

direct

entirely

measures have

fairly successful,

when

different

failed,

results.

and vice versa.

others were absolute

failures.

Yet

in

response to

inquiries as to the reason for these varying observations the

all

be sure to obtain proper balance in the garment.

Balance

and the diversity and confusion

is

This will rectify the greater portion of the errors.

garments seems to be the great center

in

answer

arguments and theories

for

of ideas in this respect is astonishing.

Therefore,

in this profession

it is

a positive fact,

as well as a necessity, that a cutter should thoroughly understand the scientific part of garment

cutting as well as the artistic.

Science
In going
is

down

simply doing.

Science shows us

to the root of these

work

two words, we

Art

is

how

things should be done and

the

and

cause and effect (variations), and Science

is,

is

that

Consequently, Art

of Science.

we know how

to

do them.

is

which guides and regulates the work.

they should be done.

therefore, the

doing; Science

is

Science illustrates to us

fundamental part of garment cutting. Art

can only reach excellence as a product of Science, and there
cise

means knowing, while Art

find that Science

or task, while Science

why

Jirt

is

no true Art without the proper exer-

We

knowing how.

Therefore, the secret of high achievements

to

is

cannot do things unless

be found

in

Science or

system.

The Supreme System
The Supreme System

is

based on the above stated principles, and

and Variations (Science) coupled with a methodical way

of taking

is

composed

and applying

of Proportions

direct measures.

Short or direct measures belong to the artistic part of our work for the reason that measures are

more or

less subject to

judgment and anything that

is

a matter of judgment should be classed with

the artistic part.

Proportions
Artists

product.

and painters always require a model from which

This

an Apollo,

is

also true in Sartorial Art,

5 feet 8 inches in height,

measure 36 inches around breast.
including shoulder, circumference,

draw the fundamental part

and the ideal model for Supreme proportions

is

of their

that of

weighing 135 pounds, which practice has demonstrated

Furthermore, this subject
etc.

to

is

will

absolutely normal in every respect,

Therefore, in selecting a model for practice

we choose

the

Contents.
Page.

Page.

INTRODUCTION
Theory

1

2
2
2
2

Justified

Science and Art

Supreme System
Proportions

Height
Circumference
Exaggerations

3
3
3

Variations
Direct Measurements
Block Patterns
Individuality

4
4
6

Fashions

6

THE SQUARE

7

Diagram of the Square
The Tester

9

6

8

THE SYSTEM.
How
Sack
Sack
Sack
Sack

to

Measure, 12

;

Diagrams

Hunchback, 60

RELATIVE

Breast Measures by Weight and Height, Proportionate Table
Waist Lengths for Coats and Full Length
Coats, Proportionate Table

22

Diagram

61

62
Overcoat, Fashion, Description
63
Overcoat, Fashion, Illustration
Box Overcoat, E.xaggerated, Single and Double
65
Breasted, 64 Diagram
66
Overcoat, Single Breasted, Newmarket
67
Overcoat, Double Breasted Surtout
69
Overcoat, Inverness, 68 Diagram
70
Full Dress, Fashion, Description
71
Full Dress Fashions, illustration
72
Full Dress Coat
Full Dress Coat without strap and lapel seam,
73
72 Diagram
Tuxedo, or Dinner Coat, Fashion, 74; Diagram. 75
77
Cassock, 76 Diagram
Direct Measures from Heights and Circumfer78
ence, Proportionate Table
79
Theories and Practice
;

;

;

.

;

13

14
Coats, Description
15
Coat, Fashion Plate
Coat, Systematical Outline, 16; Diagram.. 17
19
Coat, Proportionate, 18; Diagram
21
HEIGHTS, 20; Diagram

;

VEST SECTION— 81-91.
Front lengths for Vests, Proportionate Table..
of Vests, Proportionate Table. ...
Vests, Fashion, Description
Vests, How to Measure, 84 Diagram

82
82
83
85

Vests, Proportionate, Single and Double Breasted, 86 Diagram
\^ests for Stout Figure, 88 Diagram
\''ests. Double Breasted, with Lapel Front
Vests, Full Dress, with small waisted effect. ...
Vests, Double. Breasted, with separate lapel, 90;

87
89
90
90

Waist length

;

;

of

;

22
23
Sack Coat for Corpulent Figure, 24; Diagram. 25
EXAGGERATION, Sack Coat, 26; Diagram.. 27
Sack Overcoat, Single and Double Breasted, 28
29
Diagram
Frock Coats, Single and Double Breasted, Fash-

CIRCUMFERENCE

.

Diagram

gram

3ri

Frock Coat, Double Breasted, 36; Diagram
Frock Coat, Corpulent, 38; Diagram
Frock Coat for Stout, 40 Diagram
;

i7
39
40

98

VEST VARIATIONS.

31

ions

Frock Coat, Outline for Body, 32; Diagram. ... 33
Frock Coat, 3-Button, Single Breasted, 34; Dia-

91

Vests, Clerical

Stooping and Erect
Large and Small Blades
Sloping and Square Shoulders
Long and Short Neck
Vests, Notched Collar for Corpulent Figure, 96;

Diagram

92
93
94
95

97

VARIATIONS.
Definition of Types, Illustrated
Incline

41

Head, Forward and Back
Stooping and Erect
Large and Small Blades
Sloping and Square Shoulders
Long and Short Neck

45

44

46
47
48
49
50

Sleeves, Proportionate
Sleeves, Stooping and Erect
Sleeves, High and Low Top

51
bl

DIRECT MEASURES.

TROUSERS SECTION—99-124.
of Trousers, Proportionate Table
Rise in Trousers, Proportionate Table
Trousers, Fashion Illustrations
Trousers, How to Measure, 102; Diagram
Trousers, Proportionate, 104; Diagram
Trousers, Peg Top
Trousers, Dress
Trousers, Corpulent, 108; Diagram
Long and Short Front
Open and Closed
Large and Flat Seat

Inseam

Bow Leg

Direct Measures, Diagram
Application of measurement

55, 56, 57, 58,

53
59

and Knock Knee
Combinations of Variations. 112 Diagram
Combinations of Variations, 114; Diagram
;

100
100
101

103
105

106
107
109
110
110
Ill
Ill
113
115

Contents

—

INDIVIDUALITY SECTION— 169,

Page.
116; DiaKnickerbockers, with
117
gram
Riding Breeches, 118 and 120; Diagram 119 and 121
122
Spring Bottom Trousers
123
Broad Falls
123
SpHt Falls
124
Overgaiters
124
Leggings
Cuff attached,

U.

S.

ARMY.

gram
Novelty Sack Coat, 1-Button, 174; Diagram.
Novelty Sack Coat, 3-Button, 176; Diagram.
Novelty Sack Coat, 3-Button

.126

Chaplain, Illustration

gram
Flaring of Skirt, Frock Coat
Vest, Novelty Dress
Vest, Double Breasted
Vest, Single Breasted, Novelty
Vest, Notched Collar
Vest, Full Dress
Dress Ethics

CLOTH CUTTING— 213,

;

143

General Officers' Dress Uniform, 144; Dia145
gram
Circular and Military Capes, 146; Diagram. 147
149
Regular Capes, 148 Diagram
150
Clencal Coat
151
Knight Templar Coat, 150; Diagram
Coachman's Coat, Single and Double Breasted.
153
.\
152 Diagram
155
Footman's Coat, 154 Diagram
157
Automobile Ulster, 156; Diagram
158
Chauffeur Sack Coat
159
Policeman's Blouse
161
Policeman's Frock Coat, 160; Diagram
163
Norfolk Jacket, 162 Diagram
165
Golf Coat, 164 Diagram
166
Riding Coat
167
Hunting Sack
;

.

;

211
220.

214
-I3

for 3-Button Frock Suit
for Overcoat
Lay for Sack Suit
Lay for Stout Men's Sack Suit
Lay for Trousers
Lay for Stout Men's Trousers
Lav for Double Breasted Vest
Lay for Notched Collar Vest
Fittings for Sack Coat
Fittings for Overcoat
Fittings for Vest
Fittings for Frock Coat
Fittings for Trousers

Dia-

gram

202 and 203
202 and 203
204
206
207
208
209
210

Lay
Lay

141

;

201

Collars and Lapels
Sleeve Cuffs, Fancy

Knight Templar, Illustration
Frock Uniform for Army Officers, Mounted
139
and Unmounted, 138; Diagram
Military Blouse, 140 Diagram
Military Overcoat, U. S. Army, 142

.

.

133
133
135
135

Dress Uniform, Illustration
Summer Uniform, Illustration

.

173
.175
.177
178

;

131
131

Military Cape, Illustration

.

;

.

MiHtary Overcoat, Illustration

.

Manipulation of front for corpulent or stout fig179
ure
180
Manipulation of Sack Coat Pattern
181
Flaring of Overcoat
183
Top Coat, Novelty, 182 Diagram
Box Overcoat, Single Breasted, 184; Diagram.. 185
187
Fur Coat, 186 Diagram
Manipulation of Overcoat Pattern, 188; Dia189
gram
Frock Coat, 2-Button Novelty, 190; Diagram. .191
Frock Coat, 1-Button Novelty, 192; Diagram. .. 193
Frock Coat, 3-Button Novelty, 194; Diagram. .. 195
Frock Coat, Double Breasted Novelty, 196; Diagram
197
Full Dress Coat, Novelty, 198; Diagram
199
Newmarket, Double Breasted Novelty, 200; Dia-

126
Full Dress Coat, Description
128
Description
Coat,
Dress
128
Service Coat, Description
130
Description
White Coat,
130
Overcoat, Description
132
Description
Capes,
132
Full Dress Trousers, Description
132
Dress Trousers, Description
132
White Trousers, Description
132
Service Trousers, Description
132
Dress Breeches, Description
132
Service Breeches, Description
134
Evening Uniform, Description
134
Aless Jackets, Description
134
LTniforms for Enlisted Men, Description
Line Officer Full Dress, Dismounted, Illustra127
tion
127
Social Dress Uniform, Illustration
129
Field Officer, Mounted, Illustration
129
General Officer, Illustration
.

209.

Page.
170
Sack Coat Novelty
Outing Sack Coat, Double Breasted, 172; Dia-

MILITARY, LIVERY, SPORTING AND OUTING GARMENT SECTION— 125, 167.

UNIFORMS FOR OFFICERS

continued.

21

215
216
216
217
217
218
218
219
219
219

PRACTICAL TAILORING— 221.

.

;

How

to

Canvas

How
How
How

;

Make
for

a

to Make a Pocket
to Try On
to Instruct the Maker

Coat Making
Vest Making
Trouser Making

;

\iii

Try-On

Coat

224
225 and 226

227
229
231
233

237
238

Preface
The demand from
latest

developments

and work, both

the progressive

in sartorial science

of the author,

and

members

and

of the

art,

of the profession

and the necessity

desire to keep abreast of the

for a permcinent record of the

thought

thousands of earnest students, who, by the use of the Supreme

System have attained success and have created many
and grand edition

third, enlarged, simplified

who

original ideas, has led to the publication of this

Supreme System

of the

of

Garment Cutting.

In presenting this volume to the public, the author believes that the following features of his work
adapt

1.

it

to the purposes for

It

contains no

which

it

was designed.

more than can be mastered by the average

intellect in the

time usually given to

the study and acquirement of the Art of Cutting.

2.

It is

thoroughly systematized.

The order and development

of subjects

of topics especially adapted to the best

3.

It is

human

thought to be logical and practical, and the arrangement

methods of

Artistic Drafting.

written and illustrated in accordance with modern theories and practice, and no pains or

expense have been spared
as

is

in the

attempt to make

it

fully represent the present

needs of the Art, so far

ingenuity and deep study can obtain.

In addition to his efforts to make these features prominent, the author has not forgotten that a
student will succeed best

when

required to learn one thing at a time.

practical, presented each subject separately

leading to a height from which the student
of

Garment Cutting, and

SUPREME SYSTEM

at the

makes

same

and in natural order,

may have

a clear

who

has, therefore, as far as

like the successive steps of a ladder,

and comprehensive view of the Science

time, let us hope, reach that

easily accessible to those

He

Acme

of Artistic Skill,

which

desire to give serious thought

THE

and honest

application to these pages.

THE AUTHOR.

i.\

Inspiration—
''All

Things Come To

Him Who Hustles While He

Waits

Advice To The Student.
The system

volume and

set forth in this

its

results are based

practical application, previous to its publication, in high-class

author but by hundreds of his successful students as well.
of practice has revealed

aimed

many improvements, and

volume

Personally
that hesitation

is

man and have

a detriment to one's

ning the study of this volume

with the

own

is

to

interests

thorough qualification

in

fullest confidence that the best results

proper application that

its

do just as he

Therefore, the best advice

have faith

volume

The

your work.

yet simplified subject.

in the

wills.

I

in

system you are about to

may

lies in

learn.

is

is

it

it

for the student to

branch

off into

over and over again until

its

secured the principal points,

it

principles have been

make

Be

perfectly hon-

is

become.

first

confi-

not an easy task to learn to

part of the

to study

With

qualifications.

work has been drawn up

more than one thing

at a time.

It

disproportions or direct measurements before the

Therefore, the proportionate draft should be gone

thoroughly acquired, and

in

this

way, having

will be a surprise to the student to recognize in the following drafts

same principles incorporated, while the subject

tions, as well as direct

it

will

advanced attainments and

would be a great mistake

elementary portion had been completely mastered.

the

not

very necessary to success in this masterly

must be admitted that

a gradual process from elementary to

scientific simplicity, for

would be unwise

is

your application of the system, and, while the details are numerous,

In order to encourage perseverance in the student, the

with

Confidence

the fact that a realization of sartorial truths will

right mental attitude

dence incorporate perseverance, and, while
it

further believe

maintain steady progress toward

you proceed the more interesting the subject

will find that the farther

be a cutter,

I

Further, in addition to confidence in the system, you must have confidence in

with yourself and honest

you

I

can give the student begin-

yourself so that you will be able to thoroughly absorb the details herein set forth.
est

these years

men's garment cutting.

practical value of this
in

by the

and the creator of unnecessary thoughts which

only valuable, but an absolute necessity in order that a student

you stronger

tailoring, not alone

The experience gained during

faith in his capacity to

sap one's energies and waste one's brains.

The

of eighteen years'

to its readers.

believe in

I

is

merchant

be obtained from this system upon

at in high-class tailoring can

offer this

it

on the experience

measurements, will each

of the different heights, attitudes

in the

and dispropor-

proper order be thoroughly mastered.

FREDERICK

T.

CROONBORG.

A

original 36-inch normal.

the breast, and
for the

more over the

inch

1

Supreme System
Height,

proportionate subject measures 4 inches less at the waist than around

The measures

seat than over the breast.

model

for the ideal

are, therefore, as follows

5 feet 8 inches.

Weight, 135 pounds.
Circumference of breast, 36 inches.
Circumference of waist, 32 inches.
Circumference of
In drafting

we

inches.

seat, 37

use the regular tailoring square

(illustrated

on page

square shows the gradations and fractions of inches and the other side the

we

these divisions on the square

we

first

is

Supreme System,

this

of

By means

of

and by the same method

The beginner should

garment with promptness and exactness.

Inasmuch as the various divisions on the square are

of all familiarize himself with the square.

applied in the

side

full inches.

find the proportions for our ideal model,

are able to produce any kind of

One

9.)

should be thoroughly studied. Further, the application of divisions

it

so regulated that each pattern will have uniformity, and formulate

in the different sizes, therefore necessitating that these divisions

ing to instructions, or else the grade will be

gradations of patterns

the

must be absolutely applied accord-

lost.

Height
While

inches in height

5 feet 8

or short man.

is

This, however, in no

the ideal model,

way changes

we

constantly

come

in contact

tall

the application of the divisions, but necessitates

additions and deductions to depth of scye, waist length, length to seat, and in
the length of the garment.

with the

(As per instructions and

illustrations

probability also to

all

on pages 20 and

21.)

Circumferen ce
While

4 inches

is

the normal difference between breast and waist,

increase and decrease of waist

For corpulent on pages

For stout on page

must be treated
24, 25, 38

illustrations

manner

illustrated

must be understood that
and instructed on page

23.

39.

40.

For slim on pages 18 and
These

and

in the

it

19.

and instructions should be given attentive consideration, as

stout there are varying points relative to both circumference

and depth

of scye

;

in

corpulent and

also, for the

reason

that they give the student a thorough understanding of the definition of slim, normal, corpulent

and

stout.

Exaggerations
Exaggeration
is

is

the scientific resource for enlargement of patterns.

incorporated in order to obtain the different effects the style demands.

how and when

to exaggerate they

would have

less trouble,

More

or less exaggeration

If half

the cutters

knew

and thousands of dollars would be saved

By

in the busheling department.
in

the use of exaggeration the cutter

circumference as he desires, while the garment

tionately around the

body

and, the armhole

;

is

able to produce a coat as large

is

clings to the neck, the goods drape propor-

still

placed in the right position and at the proper height.

(See pages 26 and 27.)

Variations
Under

this

head we come

in contact

with

many

subjects that at

seem

first

to be

most complicated,

but upon application to the direction and instruction from numerous illustrations on this subject,

study of cause and effect from the original draft,

after

well as scientific,
therefore,

way

it

will

of variations for the different attitudes

by giving attention and proper study

pages 41-43), and fixing

in one's

become

forms (as shown

of the types,

and

in that

mathematical drawing of variations of coats illustrated on pages 45-49,
applying the divisions in the usual

form

of type,

whether

it

way

it

makes

it

possible to produce a

it

most simple, reasonable, as

and subjects a cutter

to the types of

mind the regular code

a

called

on

to

fit,

in illustrations

on

is

connection studying the

soon be plain that by

will

good pattern

for

any

size or

be slim, stout, or corpulent, stooping or erect, head forward or backward,

sloping or square shoulders, long or short neck, etc.

However, careful study
have been stipulated

of attitudes is very essential so as to be sure that in actual practice

in the right direction.

the various directions stipulated

it

It

to be noticed that

is

will develop striking

similarity

by working the

in

patterns,

all

ideal

they

model

indicating

in

that,

while the pattern has been swayed in various ways for the different types of forms, increases or decreases of circumference, and different heights,

it

retains the

most men

of

may have

the

same

size.

it

will

The

be surprising to see

alteration

in

how

the original, insuring a

stipulated the third degree of deformation of a certain type.
is

by

the

well a proportionate coat will

most cases would be

with the form of the subject, and unless there

fault

of

Therefore, caution should be exercised

well balanced garment for any form or type of man.
cutter in stipulating the type, as

symmetry

slight,

fit

even where the cutter

It is

not advisable to find

a positive inclination of a certain type, cut

a proportionate pattern subject to height and circumference.

'Direct
I

am

Measurements

a firm believer in fundamental principles,

Weight, Circumference and Variations

symmetry and

direct

tion with illustrations

tem proper, inasmuch

way

for the different types of

of

men

Supreme

proportions.

Height,

as a regulation for obtaining

correct balance in men's garments.

In discussing

methodical

consisting

measures,

what has been stated heretofore

in this introduction in

connec-

and instructions pertaining to fundamentals, contains the principles of the Sysas

it

of applying

comprises the

scientific

part of garment cutting.

measures over said proportions, variations, heights,

Direct measures

circumferences,

is

a

etc.

In connection with these proportions, direct measures are of value, but direct measures cannot

be relied upon, as a foundation in themselves, inasmuch as in applying measures to any part of the

body judgment must be exercised

to the utmost.

There

no doubt, experts who have by long experience accustomed themselves

are,

to particular

methods, enabling them to take measures with great exactness, but that proves only their

The

own

skill.

remains that the great majority of cutters cannot handle the customer with the manner of

fact

an expert nor secure measures that are even approximately correct.

No
view

material progress in measuring has been

my

of

made during

personal study on this subject for years,

I

the past twenty-five years and

in

have come to the conclusion that the object

the cutter should have in view in cutting a garment should be to cut

it

so

it

will

fit

and clothe the

customer gracefully.

am

I

aware

perfectly

of the fact that

it is

an utter impossibility to be successful with direct meas-

ures unless combined with the fundamentals, proportions and variations.

The
seconds

;

principal reason for this

same

that the form will not measure the

is

for five consecutive

a deep breath, a shifting of the weight from one foot to the other, or any other slight move-

ment on the part

of the

customer not only changes

his size, but so varies the relations of the points

measurements are unattainable.

to each other that absolute

This, together with the difference of undergarments, renders accuracy out of the question.

Any
slight

who

cutter

who

has ever placed a square under the arm of a customer knows very well that a

make

pressure will easily

a difference of one-fourth to one-half inch, and

the cutter

is

can measure the depth of scye, blade and strap twice alike with a tape and square where pro-

portions are not stipulated to guide him.

which require many
of

who

anatomy

superficial

to enable

them

to the sixteenth of an inch,

But

Young

cutters are especially inclined to adopt

methods

measurements, and are prone to believe they should have a knowledge

to succeed.

They

strain their eyes in an endeavor

and are happy so long as the measures are

in spite of all these uncertainties in

to take

measures

fractional.

measurements, direct measures are of great value

in

connection with proportions and variations, but they must be taken and applied in the manner described in the various diagrams on

how

will then be readily seen that direct

goes to show that there
the

Supreme System

Heights,

of

no true

will be

Circumferences,

EDITION

is

to take

them and

WHEN

and

WHERE

to apply them.

It

measures should not be used without fundamentals, which only
art

without the proper exercise of science.

found a complete combination

Exaggerations and

Direct

of

Supreme

Measures,

hence

For these reasons,

proportions,

the

name

the

in

Variations,

GRAND

SUPREME SYSTEM.

Block Patterns
Any man who

thoroughly understands the system of drafting, measurements and applications,

as well as exaggerations,

much

and has the principles

success as by drafting.

This

is

of variations,

etc.,

can use block patterns with as

especially true in regard to sacks

that block patterns are safer to use than uncertain drafted patterns.

and overcoats.

The

be used as a model, subject to variations and measurements, and the fact

is

It is also true

block, of course,

would

that a good block in the

hands of a proficient cutter
that

will give the

same

results as drafting.

no man who does not thoroughly understand System and

It
its

must, however, be understood

resources can intelligently use

block patterns.

Individuality
By
cutter

Individuality,

is

scientific

I

mean

the quality of being distinct or personal, and the extent to which a

individual in his productions depends entirely on his artistic ability in connection with his

and practical knowledge of

his special

tailoring, as in the

and independent personality.

Toward

this

individuality of

his

productions he displays

end the exaggerations and manipulations of

These

patterns and a thorough knowlege of practical try-ons and draping act as his resources.

re-

sources, in connection with the development of the latest styles, such as correct shoulders, placing
of vents, the different positions of pockets, as well as

collars

and

lapels,

on

cuffs

sleeves,

various

lengths and the general effect of the prevailing styles enable a cutter to produce not only stylish

garments but

to

display his

own

individuality as well.

Another thing which should be given thorough consideration

making

of the

in

this respect is the cutting

and

canvas of the coat, as the canvas should be changed as often as the style demands and

for the different individual effects

and shapes of

fronts.

For

this reason the

portant factor in the production of individual and stylish garments.
Tailoring; also, study the lecture on
the cultured public which

is

"How

to

to be gratified,

Make

a Try-on and

and Individuality

is

canvas

is

a

most im-

(See the Treatise on Practical

How
the

to

Try

on.")

interpretation

Remember
of

Sartorial

it is

Art

which embraces more than mere system.

Fashions
The

style of yesterday,

would be impossible

which may never return, would be

to foretell.

For

this reason

and the

is

based on the

and the fashion cuts adorning the pages

They

scientific

of this

of the standard type of the time of its publication to serve as a foundation for
style in the future.

style of

tomorrow

no account has been taken of the fashion of the

future in this volume, but every style, past, present, and future,
principles set forth in this work,

useless,

work

and

artistic

are, therefore,

whatever

may

be the

are also valuable as an illustration of the finished product of the various

diagrams and instructions, and, further, with the view of illustrating the regulations of dress for
ferent occasions, thereby serving as Dress Ethics.

dif-

The Square
Besides the yardstick, tape and chalk, the only device used in drafting patterns for garments
the square, and the square

on

illustrated

it,

we

the most essential device, for the reason that

is

find fractions of inches,

which when put

in practice,

is

upon the various divisions
enable us to find the various

proportions of the different parts of patterns, as well as enabling us to produce any size desired.
Therefore, the square must be studied thoroughly by
of drafting, as without a

A

in drafting.

to

remember

full

knowledge

knowledge

all

persons whose ambition

must be acquired

of this square

used for both

is

in drafting patterns.

divisions

which

of the square

Now,

let

is

used, or

which

if

For example

arm

;

Be

a person measures 36 breast, 18

always

Be

sure you

fix in

mind

just

double in

laid

front and back part are pro-

is

is

the figure on the

the figures on the various divisions

You

Notice the divisions on the

will first find the twenty-fourths
all

;

next, the

on the long

arm

of the square starting

where these

and

with the right angle.

finally the half inches

on the short

divisions are located on the short

arm

j^a>**

Next, take the regular square and study

it

together with the illustration.

understand and know where to find the various divisions of inches.

Remember,

well

your mind just where these divisions are located.

a thorough examination of the short

sure you have fixed in your

regular

it is

used, and so on.

is

of the square.

and

is

then the sixths, and again the thirds, and finally the two-thirds of inches,

make

study

Therefore, use only half of the breast or waist

First are the sixteenths, then the eighths, then the fourths,

arm.

The

us take a general examination of the square illustrated.

of this square.

Next,

In this connection

person measures 40 breast, 20

If a

:

long arm of the square, starting from the right angle.
twelfths

first of all.

For example:

sides.

duced, laid on double cloth and so cut out for both sides.

measure

to begin the

of this square and its various divisions, nothing can be accomplished

that in producing patterns for garments of any kind the cloth

cutting, while one pattern

it is

square

until

in drafting

draft only one pattern

you

are

satisfied

that

you are using only one-half
and the pattern

is

laid

you

Be sure you thoroughly

Therefore, study both illustration

have absorbed and know

of the regular

it

thoroughly.

measure for the reason that you

on double cloth for cutting.

The Tester
To Draft
Draw
The
to

is

1

A-1, and

lines

A-L

difference between the figures

from

A

down

in.

J/2

Proceed to square out the

A

from

tration

A

at right angle.

A

From

down

to

L

lines as

as indicated

%

is

from

shown
-iS

1

E

to

to 5

is

1/6 on divisions of 48

a line

A

D

from

E

to

9

is

%

to 24.

to

is 3/^

on the divisions of 48; 24 on
to

4

5.

on divisions of 48; 24 on the square.

34 on divisions of 24; 12 on the square.

is

Rule a
on divisions of 24

to

in illus-

1

1

24 on the square.

1/6 on divisions of 24; 12 on the square.

is

Rule

the square.

From

;

line

D

from

to 4.

12 on the

;

square.

Rule a

line

from

L

A

to 9.

C

to

is

1/12 on divisions of 48; 24 on the

square.

A

From

to

H

^

is

1

on divisions of 48

;

to 3

1/12 on divisions of 24; 12 on the square.

is

24 on the

Rule a

line

A

is

from C

to 3.

square.

From

to 8

1

3^ on divisions of 24; 12 on the

is

square.

Rule a

line

from

H

to 8.
1

to

B

to 2

is

Rule a

From

A

to

G

is

%

on divisions of 48

;

iV
iV

line

on divisions of 48 24 on the square.
;

on divisions of 24; 12 on the square.

B

from

to 2.

24 on the

square.

From

to 7

1

is

I3 on divisions of 24; 12 on the

square.

Rule a

line

from

G

Now

proceed to

test the

trated on the square

from 48

you have

to 7.

all

large
to

F

is

'4

on divisions of 48

;

24 on the

square.
to

all

man measuring 48

6

is

kinds of garments, from the
to the little

boy measuring

only 24 around the breast, waist, or seat.

ample, try size 40-36,

J4 on divisions of 24; 12 on the square.
Rule a line from F to 6.
1

illus-

the divisions applied in the production of

the various sizes for

From A

various divisions

to 24, as in this tester

etc.,

for the various divisions,

in fact, try all sizes for a better

different divisions.

For ex-

understanding of the

H
W
1-3

>
t-H

o
en

O
C
>

>
2i
O
H
w
M
W

The Ideal Model for
Supreme System

Hoiv
Those whose ambition
forms of men; and

last,

to

is

it

They should

of measuring.

are,

and circumference
and

We

Measures.

become successful

but not

cutters should give thorough study to the art

by observing the

is

The second

that of Short,

The

and as many measures as are necessary

in order to

sometimes

Measures,
in the

volume by now taking the

in this

consists of length

first

consists of the definition of types, forms

Direct

or

proceed to give Measurements

will, therefore,

and instructions are arranged

and

hard to obtain.

therefore, divided into three different sections.

third section

different types, shapes

taking short, or direct measures, exercise the utmost care,

least, in
is

connection with heights.

in

The

attitudes.

Measure

further train their faculties

as exactness of these measures

Measurements

to

manner

in

Cross

called

which the

illustrations

Section under consideration,

Fiist

produce a propoitionate coat, subject to height

i

and circumference.
Practice has demonstrated that taking the length of the coat and width cf back before a cus-

tomer removes the garment

will give the best satisfaction, for the reason that the old coat acts as a

foundation for these measurements, and the cutter by taking these measurements over same can
better distinguish whether the old coat

more

correct length for the

the same manner.

new

how

For the same reason the width

coat.

(See Plate No.

too long, or too short, and

is

Next, after the coat

1.)

is

rr

uch, thereby obtaining

of the

back

also taken in

is

removed place the regular

tailoring

square at the top of shoulder and have the short arm of square rest en the end of the right shoulder
the long

arm

of square across the

and with a piece

back;

of chalk in your right

hold same even with

hand mark

off

shoulder end witl: your

left

point Z, as illustialed in Plate

point of the neck by laying on the tape to the back of the neck, allowing both ends of
to the front.

Turn

with the

hand, and with a piece of chalk in the right hand

left

tration in Plate

2.

the tape under the

arms and across back, holding both ends

register the figure of circumference of breast.

hand mark

A

Next,

fix

the waist line

off the

waist

line,

or point C, Plate

2,

left

hand

Fix the

same

to run

of the tape together

and

B

as

shown

in illus-

breast,

and

by placing the tape around

hand, and with the piece of chalk

at the

same time

register the circum-

Next, place the tape around the most prominent part of the seat, hold the

ference of the waist.

tape together with the

measure.

points

2.

Next remove the tape from the back of the neck and place tape around

the hollow of the waist, holding the tape together with the
in the right

mark

left

left

hand, marking with the right hand point D, Plate

2,

and register seat

Plate No. 3 illustrates the front view of Plate No. 2 with a square properly placed under

arm and tape attached for the measuring of sleeve length from H to G as shown, as well as
manner in which the tape line should be placed when breast, waist and seat measure
taken. Next, if possible, ascertain the correct height and weight of the customer. While the length

the

illustrating the
is

of coat

and width

of

back will in proportions be given

measures were registered
measures so

far taken

Length

Width

of back

first

with view of applying

from
in

29 inches

Seat

14 inches

Sleeve length

Breast

36 inches

Height

32 inches

Weight

is

and

circumference, these two

with

said

proportions.

The

should be entered in the measuring books as follows:

Waist
This

height

connection

the First Section of Measurements.

for the Third Section see Direct Measures.

37 inches
1854 inches
5 feet

8 inches

135 pounds

For the Second Section see Definition of Types, and

How

to

Measure

MMl(i/i

P/a/€ Z.

Flc^tcL

PLddc 3.

The Sack Coat
Every man
as laborer,

in

America, multi-niiilionaire as well

wears a sack

can business coat, and

coat.
in

It is

the great

other countries

is

Ameri-

it

is

to allow free

movement, and because

its

ets,

vogue.

Then

which make

it

it

it

loose

enough

has no

is

extremely convenient to the busi-

ness man.

year slight changes are

observable in the fashion of sack coats, the general
design has remained unchanged for

grows

shorter, then

longer, then

many

years.

short again.

straight front has

vogue for about the same time.

logically

distinguishing
In
to

It

It
is

])n)(

narrow shoulders

mark

in

it

would

will be the

next

favor.

hieing a sack coat there are three points

be reiuembered, for upon these depend

larity.

the
to

The

tails

plentifully supplied with pock-

Although from year

popular.

less

In the change from the wide shoulder,

perhaps the reason for part of

is

in

seem that

roomy and comfortable,

to get in the way.

been

recog-

nized as the badge of the American.

That

been more or

It

will

popu-

must be roomy and comfortable, yet

same time

which

its

at

witiiout

any trimming or finishing

nl>struct free

movement, and have plentv

of pockets.

The

different

models of sack coats are

all

built

on the same general design, the double and single

loose

and boxy, then body-litting and has many varia-

breast, the placing of the pockets, buttons, cuff's, etc.,

tions

between these extremes.

the cutting of fronts, collars and lapels, express only

For ten years past the sack coat has been half
fitting,

and for six years the padded shoulders have

the individuality of the tailor, the personal
the customer, or the exactions of fashion.

taste

of

Sack Coats

REGULAR MODELS OF SACK
OR BUSINESS COATS

Systematical Outline for Sack Coat
Measures:
Breast

36

in.

Seat

Waist

32

in.

Heig-ht

To

A

Vis

%

to

B

is

3

to

C

is

^

of total height plus >2

to

D

is

i/H

of height plus

to

E

is

3'2

By
A to B

A

A
A

9

height minus

to

C

is-

\7y2

to

D

is

2Zy2

in.

E

it

5

in.

in.

is

29

W

in.

8

in.

1-6 breast measitre.

is

will be

N

B

to

N

to I

breast measure.

is

is

W.

2J4

in.

Square down from

in.

X

found that from

in.

in.

to

to

Square up from

in.

applying measure
is

G

measure.

1

ft.

Square up and down from G.

to

'jreast

,5

in.

Draft

Square out and down from A.

A
V
A
A

... .0/

for this particular

height and

to

O

I.

1-6 breast measure.

is

from

Q

Rule

a line

A

to

T

is

1-6 breast measure.

T

to

R

is

34 in.

Rule a

line

from

to

W

I.

to R.

circumference.

Square out B, C,

D

Square back from point K, finding point

Rule a

B

to

F

is

1/3

F

to

H

is

\y,

Z.

and E.

from

line

breast measure.

Q

in.

to

P

is

X

to Z.

1-6 breast measure.

from

Square up and down from H.

Rule a

B

These are the principal points for normal, and

to

S

is

3/ breast measure.

S to

G

is

33/2

line

should be studied

in.

16

first

J to P.

of

all.

Systematical Outline for Sack Coat

I

N

W

C

S

H

F

C

D

U

DIAGRAM NO.

1.

Sack Coat

liegulatlon

—

continued

Measures:
Breast

36

in.

Seat

Waist

32

in.

Heis:ht

5

37

in.

8

in.

ft.

To Draft
First

up

la_v

from

continue as follows

C

to

M

:

H

line

to 15

Rule a

3 to 4

K

is

in.

Yf,

and

to 15

out.

in.

L

2 to

to

4,

is

J4 in.

back

to top of

A

at

A

X
V&

to

25

is

to

26

is

Notch

at

16 to 20
top

R

to 11,

to 3

ZY^

is

Y

is

is

2

3^

in.

33^

in.

is

3K-

3

in.

is

as

sack.

in.

shown by dash

For small-waisted sack
Take out of center seam
to

M

man

every inch the

and

to 8.

V

Shape from

10 to 12

lines.

less

is

down

at

P and you have

shown by dotted

Apply waist measure from 4

from

of the divisions

7 to 9

same distance

as

from

R

to 11

minus

amount

the

is

taken out in an underarm

from armhole

for

in.

to

M

lines.

and

to 7.

in.

is 2>Y2

9 to 3

in.

^^

than normal.

as

J"-

%

M

point

V

to

as

be reduced, which

shown by dotted

is

lines

to pocket.

in.

Reduce
2 to

side of front part Y^

Shape as shown in solid
3, 3 to 12 and down.

Sweep back from

'"•

point

'^^

2.

lines of illustration

from

Extend width of forepart
shown by dotted lines, which
seams used for underarm \'.

point 2 Y^

at
is

iii->

as

allowance for two

This finishes draft for small waist.
5 to 6, using point 2 as a pivot.

Sweep forward from

X

to R,

a

J4 waist measure.

Apply seat measure on
10 to 14 and U to 10.

From

I to

Take out a V of ^ in. at point
normal double-breasted sack.

and shape back as

4 to 10 and down.

Applv waist measure from 4

From 8

From
From
From

Shape front

per solid lines in illustration, from
11 to 2,

body of a single-breasted normal

the

front.

M.

J4 in.

is

to 11

Add

from B

^

is

to

1-12 breast measure.

is

line

15 to 2

\

from

is

'"•

For double-breasted sack note the dash lines at

Square down from M.

Rule a

;

This

in.

Yo

is

The pockets are found % of the sleeve length,
G down pockets for this size of coat are 6V2

points as described in outline, then

all

point 6 to 16, using point

Collar

as a pivot.

Shape armhole from

Y

Make width
I

to 13

is

to 19

Extend

Now

is
1

of lapel 3

\Ya

Shape

diagram from

Y

to

to P.

from 18

to 17.

and

is

22

is

to

2i

X

is

line

1>4

23 to 24

is

2

27 to 21

is

1J4

from 6

to 16.

as

in.

as

from

A

to

R

shown.

to 27.

in.

Shape from 22
in illustration

to 23.

to 27.

P

shown

1

same distance

the

of length at point 16.
to 17, 17 to 13, 13 to 19

from 13 up

in.

the stand of

Shape from 22

to 16.
as

17 to 27

27 to 22

in.

shape from point

and down

in.

in

in.

\Y2

in.

Extend crease

to 2 as illustrated.

Shape shoulder as shown
and
shape neck hole from X
X,

ill-

to 2Z, 23 to 24,

24 to 21, 21 to 27,

—

Regulation Sack Coat

DIAGRAM NO.

19

2.

continued

Heights
men

In variation of heights

are

divided into three classes, viz.

normal and

tall,

(See

short.

illus-

Heights.)

Relative

tration

:

In each of these classes

we may

have several degrees of the same

As

type.
in

we

a rule

find difficulty

impressing the student with an

understanding of the necessity of
height as a positive guide to regu-

and shape the garment to the
A knowledge of the height
of the customer is of great praclate

figure.

value to a cutter, not only as

tical

a guide to regulate the length of
the garment, but also to obtain the

proportionate

station

relative

to

heights, such as slope of shoulder,

depth of scye, waist length, length
to

as well

seat,

length

of

average

the

as

garment, so as to

the

avoid the possibility of cutting a

long coat for a short figure or a
short coat for a

man.

tall

(See

A

lustration Relative Heights.)

Z

the neck point,

is

slope of shoul-

is

der,

B

depth of scye,

and

D

length to seat.

C

Suppose the height
in.

il-

waist length

to be 5

ft.

8

as the middle figure of Relative

Heights
in. is

normal

in.,

height of

eighth of 68

is

8>4

ft. and 8
which is the
man. One-

Five

illustrate.

a total of 68

a
in.

Add

to this

and we have 9 in., which is
Yz
the total amount of depth of scye
in.

for a subject 5

and 36

ft.

8

in height

in.

Then again divide
amount of the depth of

breast.

the total

the scye into three equal parts, and
1-3 of this

amount

is

the propor-

tionate slope of shoulder.

(See

il-

lustration Relative Heights.)

The circumference

of breast reg-

ulates the depth of scye because the

arms and muscles graue

m

circum-

ference in proportion with the cir-

cumference of the body, and the
normal depth of scye is, therefore,
found by taking 1-3 of the breast
measure plus 3 inches for the normal height of 5 ft. 8 in. (See Dia-

gram

3,

5'

4"

56"

AB.)
2()

512'

Heights
The
of scye
tire

fact
is

remains that the depth

approximately

]/&

of en-

height of figure, and in vary-

ing from the normal height 34 of
an inch is added to the depth for

every inch the subject
5

ft.

8

in.,

and

in.

]4,

from depth of scye
the subject
in.

is

is taller
is

deducted

for every inch

shorter than 5

(See Diagram

than

3,

ft.

8

Point A, nor-

mal, and variations for 5

ft.

4

in.

and 5 ft. 12 in., as shown by dash
and dotted lines.) Illustrating that
for 6 ft. there is 3^ in. addition to
the depth of scye and for 5 ft. 4 in.
there is lA deduction from the normal representing 14, of an inch for
each inch he

is

taller

or

shorter

than the normal.

The

natural

waist

coat

is

of the entire height. For

]^,

fashionable waist add IJ^

Waist length for sack coat
of the entire

height

(See Diagram

3,

a

frock

is

J4

plus Yz

in.

Point C, for nor-

mal, dotted line for 5

4

ft.

and

in.,

The

dash line for 5

ft.

length to seat

1-3 of the entire

height plus
for

in.

(See Diagram

4

ft.

and dash

in.,

line for 5

12 in.)

ft.

The average
of

y2

is

length of sack coat

minus

height

the

(See Diagram

3,

dash

line for 5

4

ft.

and

in.,

of a S. B.

half the height plus 2 in.

is

The average length
frock

in.

12 in.)

ft.

The average length
frock

5

Point E, for nor-

mal, dotted line for 5

of

D.

a

B.

3^ of the height plus 6

is

Average length
is

3,

D, for normal, dotted line

Point
for 5

is

in.

1

12 in.)

in.

for a full dress coat

Yi of the height plus 5

and

in.,

the average length for an overcoat
is

half of the height plus 8

While

governs the length

style

of the garment,

heights

regulate

a guide

as

length

the

which

ment,

of

division

this

serve

will

in.

of

should

the

be

to

gar-

graded

IS'*

t5"

according

the

to

customer.

height

of

the

Relative

Illustration

Heights shows the position and

which

cline

neck point,

is

D

A

D

length to seat.

is

By

C

Z

is

B depth

of

to

waist length and

A

to

illus-

Relative Heights, and the

Diagram No.
the

to

in-

the

as

a careful study of the

tration

.a'*"

A

scye,

to

A

therefore

shoulder slope,

5-ir

calculated

3,

instructions

and thereby

and following out
herein

illustrated,

stipulated
will

make

the student conversant with relative

E

L
DIAGRAM NO.

heights as well as the necessity of

incorporating the same in producJi'^"

tion of patterns.
3.

Proportionate Table of Breast Measures by Weight and Height

Circumference
In variations of circumference customers are divided into four types

(See

Stout.

illustrations.)

36 breast and 30 waist,
the

Normal

coat

still

retaining

waist measure
4.

The

stout

is

athletic

(See Fig.
the

man

same

is

By

as over breast.
its

he

type,

:

less

Slim, Normal, Corpulent and

than normal around waist, as

manner stipulated and insttucted in diagram 2;
same diagram. The Corpulent differs from the Stout

is

the Corpulent figure

termed Corpulent

:

mean

grown heavy
around the waist
for
40 and 39 waist with the 42 breast measure would

but measuring more

I

than

a figure which has

proportionate

;

Any man whose

waist measures more than Normal, or any man whose
termed Corpulent, and should be treated as shown in diagram
measures more around the waist tiian around the breast. .Study Fig. 9 for

8.)

as over breast,

who

who measure

should be treated in the

example, 42 breast and 42 waist

also be corpulent.

refer to persons

I

that of the solid lines in the

is

around waist as well
while

who

By Slim

Stout form, and treat same as shown

is

in diagram 11.
In classifying Circumference, the Slim measures
around waist than Normal, the Corpulent measures more around waist than regulation or Normal
waist measure, and the Stout measures more around waist than around breast.
In application of the
divisions for depth of scye, the increase and decrease for depth of scye over 42 will be only 1-12 inch.
( See diagram 4.

less

Sack Coat for Corpulent Figure
Note difference of increase on depth of
than normal, but

A

scye.

corpulent figure

is

one whose waist measure

is

more

does not exceed breast measure.

still

Measures Used
Breast

-18

in.

Seat

Waist

48

in.

Height

To
Square out and down from A.

A
42

to 48

inasmuch as

point for regular grade, size 42

taken into consideration.

Therefore,

.\

to

42

is

48

in.

8

in.

ft.

DraLft
diagram from
and down.

in

1-3 breast measure, but

is

stipulated

is

5

P

to

is

1-3

X

R

to 11, 11 to 2, 2 to 3, 17

from J to P.
same distance

line

Y

to

to R,

1-6 breast measure.

is

Rule a

A

is

as

R

from

to

1 1

minus

of size 42.
y^

V is half way between 48 and 42.
V to B is 3 in.
A to C is >4 height plus {2 in.
in.
height plus
A to D is
minus
3 in.
height
is
to
E
A
>4
Square out B, C, D and E.

%

B
F
B

to

F

to

H

to

S

is

S

to

G

is

G

to

W

B

to

N

is

Zyi

in.

in.

M

to

T

to

R

is

is

1

Shape

1

X, using point

to

G

as a pivot.
1

to

X

is

y2

in.

from VV to R.
Square back frpm K, finding point
Rule a line from X to Z.
Square out from X by balance line.
Rule a

X

to

L

to

Shape
and down.

H

line

O
O

1/6 breast measure.

is

3^ waist measure.

Rule a
19 to 2

shown

is

line
is

14, in-

%

point 5 to 6, using point 2 as

in

B

Make

using point

X

as

from

and

out.

A

and

at

iy2 in.
ly. in.

lapel

and
\y2

is

front.
in.

plait

from front of pocket dpwn

O

to

1,

O

is

4

is

yi

ing

is

in.

to

front

lines, in size so that

distance from 20 to 21 will be y%

in.

over normal waist.

for each inch

In this case the

over normal and total from 20 to 21

in.

in

line

on side of front part

center of armhole and

down

illustrates

open-

to side of front

part.

For
back

is

the garment

in.

to top of

16,

corner of coat as shown by shaded

coat

illustration

to 19

to

in illustration.
Z.

1/12 breast measure.

from

in.

as shown in illustration
from
2 to 4, 12 and down,
also shape side of front part
and shape bottom of coat from 6 to 18.
For double-breasted coat note dash line in this
illustration, and add same amount to front as for
double-breasted coat illustrated in diagram 2.
Place pocket as shown in diagram.
Cut a slash in pattern from center of armhole to
point 21 and from 21 to front end of pocket, as shown

Dash

to 19

Add

is

as

of division from 17 to

Shape cutaway of front

in.

point

is

16 to 18

1/6 breast measure.

Sweep back from

to 13

to 15

>4 in.

%

%

a pivot.

Square down from M.
Rule a line from V to M.

A
T

2

is

Sweep forward from 6

breast measure.

is

in.

a pivot.

to I is 2J4 in.
Square down from I.
Square up from W.
Square up and down from G.
Square up and down from H.
to

3K'

10 to 12

N

C

is

Sweep back from

1-6 breast measure.

is

'4

Apply seat measure on
14 and U to 10.

breast.

J/2

is

M

8 to

breast measure.

\y2

is

Shape armholc as shown in diagram from Y to 2,
Shape shoulder from Y to X and shape neck
hole from X to P and out.
to 8.
and
Apply waist measure from 3 to

1

i/ii

in.

sliape as

shown

further

information

manipulation for stout.

on

this

subject

see

Sack Coat for Corpulent Figure

DIAGRAM NO.

4.

Exaggeration
In these days

fashion

We

viduality in clothes.

is

hablc

change ahnost over night, and the general demand

to

when

are past the time

clothes are valued simply as a

fit

;

is

for

indi-

but fitness in clothes

expressed by style and individual effect produced for particular customers. E.xaggeration, then, becomes
a most valuable resource, because by the application of exaggerations to the patterns a cutter is able
to produce a garment that not only holds the fitting points, but can be made as many sizes larger than

is

man

circumference of the

actual

the

as

while

necessary,

is

proportionately

material

distributing the

For the tall and thin figure exaggeration is of incalculable value, for if a garment
was cut according to measurements alone it would by no means represent the advanced style of toExaggeration is therefore a scientific resource subject to the personality of the type of customer
day.
as well as to style, and can be relied on for exactness in enlargement of circumference in garments
Measurements taken of a customer remain the same as for a fitting garment,
to the fullest extent.
and the amount of excess is stipulated according to the type of the customer as well as the prevailing
The amount of excess also varies in different classes of trade.
style, by so many inches in excess.
requiring exaggeration it would be well to include one size of
figures
for
different
providing
In
in.
and
36 breast, and an average of 3-2 in. more excess for each inch
5
ft.
8
excess in the normal, or
around the body.

the customer

is

taller

This

his height.

is

For overcoats

than

5

8

ft.

in.,

provided he does not increase

circumference

in

proportion to

in

for sack coats.
it

has been found practical to give 2 inches of excess to the figure of normal height

more

'and circumference, and an average of yS inch

man

for each inch a

taller

is

than normal.

In frock

advisable not to include any excess for normal height and circumference, but to add J2 inch
This is for the tall and slim types.
for each inch the subject is taller than normal.

coats

is

it

For Short and Corpulent and Short and Stout
in excess, and frock coat J^

overcoat two sizes

demonstrated

that

this

conservative advice

it

is

size

should

be

advisable to cut a sack according to regular measure

than regular measure.

less

by students

followed

Personal practice has

also,

;

measurements

that

should be taken according to instructions, and the excess stipulated at the time measurements are taken.
In the Second Section or Definition of Types, Ex. 1, 2 and 3, thereby meaning excess 1. 2 or 3 inches.

The diagram on

<

opposite page illustrates exaggeration of 36 to 40.

Measurements are as Follows:
in.

Waist

32

in.

in.

Seat

2>7

in.

Waist length
Length to seat

17j^

Full length

29

in.

Breast

36

in.

23^

four

E.xaggerated
in.

sizes.

For proportionate 36

breast subject.

To Draft
The dotted
2)7 in.

lines

and

S

to

G

is

height, accord-

G

to

9

is

indicate the regular 36, 32

circumference, and 5

ft.

8

in. in

ing to the regular instructions of sack coat.

The
36 and 41
It

solid lines

show an exaggerated

respectively, also 5

in.,

will be noticed that the

ft.

8

is

9 to

W

height.

depth of scye, waist

jg

r>

B

^

to

IS

%

T-

F

-t

is

,

breast measure.
•

is

^^ jg

j^

^^ ^^

j^

H

to

S

is
is

the regular

1^

e^it^'i

and

9.

size the coat

^^^ ^^^^j^^ ^^^^^^ measure.
^,^^
,

,

exaggerated breast measure.
,

.

,0
18

.

'

N.

to 1

is

^t

and N
,,,,.,,.
bv dashes

that the increase between

to

,

is

,^
V2

in the distance

e.xJSI

1

Add
to

t'"'"

for each size, as indicated

F.

F
B

Vi i"-

9

from 18

aggerated, as indicated by dashes between points

and

ui.

1-

4.

''»

^

.

ijubreast measure, making
exaggerated

r

3/ i"-

^^^^^^

Note

,r
c
t.
j-u
each
size the coat
an increase of \1/6
m. for

G

1/6 of regular breast measure.

is

^^^^^^

.„,

^

L.

for each size the coat

g^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^

g
^

fore, placed as follows:
1

in.

^,p ^^^^ ^^^^.^^

g^^,^^^

a coat exaggerated four sizes, the increases are, there,

or ^4

See dashes between

Square up from 8

mains the same as the original, while the increases
are m the circumference, which places the goods of an
exaggerated coat in the proper position. This being

,

is

8

(

exao-gerated.

length, length to seat, as well as length of coat re-

„,,.,,,
B to
% of regular

W

to

in.

in.,

1

exaggerated.

coat to 40,

in. in

iyi

4 inches to the regular waist measure for

e.xaggerated

in.

J^ regular breast measure.

plus
26

3^

z/4 m.

in.

waist,

and apply

in

the

usual

manner

Diagram

for Exaggerated

DIAGRAM NO.
Also add four sizes to the seat measure and
apply in the regular manner, plus 2

These are

all

the points

moved

in.
b}'

exaggeration

or obtained by exaggerated measures.
All other points relative to shoulders, top of back,
etc..

the button stand, as in a regular coat, and

shape as shown by solid lines and

finish,

5.

aggerated coat

is

completed.

Should less exaggeration be desired over waist
and seat, add less to your measure, and operate on
front part by taking out a V in the same manner as
illustrated in the regular sack coat for small waist.

Height, variations,

remain according to regulations.

Add

Sack Coat

and the ex-

incorporated

direct

measures,

etc.,

according to instructions and

tions in this volume.

to

be

illustra-

and Double Breasted Sack Overcoat

Single

Mea.sures Used
Breast

40

in.

Seat

Waist

36

in.

Lenffth, etc., based

To
to

V

%

is

breast measure.

to

B
C

.A

to

D

is

%

A

to

E

is

J^ height plus 8

to

is

3 in.

is

34 height plus

seat measure on

D

10 to 12

is

234

in.

Reduce front part 3^

1

Shape

or length of coat

in.,

to

F

to

H

is

V/i

to

S

is

J4 breast measure.

S

to

G

is 2>Y2

G

to

W

B

to

N

N

to I

is

of the division from

point

in illustration

point

X

From
minus

^

Y

to

is

shown

Shape armhole

breast measure.

Shape shoulder from
to

in.

P

as

in

Y

to

M

X

W.

Rule a
.\ to

T

to

from

line

T
R

Rule a

V

to

is

1/6 breast.

is

%

line

Rule a

line

to 17

Rule a

X

to

K

is

from

W

is

3,

X.

from B

and

is

34
as

to

is

From
and down.

I,

in illustration

A, from

down

to

A

to

R,

in.

lapel desired.

as

shown

%

pockets

of

I

R

by starting

Peak

]/%

20

to
is

4

from 13

to 15

and

in

diagram.

sleeve

length

down from

is

4

in.

4

in.

lapel according to taste.

Make width

to 11, 11 to 2,

is

M

and

of lapel

double-breasted coat

to 8.

28

lines.

in.

Shape as shown by
3 to

from

to length of front at point 18.

in.

to 19

5.

Apply waist measure from

illustration

in.

2

is

front as per illustration

18 to 21

shown

in

For double breasted see d^sh

out.

in.

line at point

3 to 10 and

O

from

1

Place

to 17

to P.

armhole, and draw up collar in regulation way.

1/6 breast measure.

Shape back
above

to

to 2.

in.

Shape bottom

Z.

Y

X.

to 16.

Add

to R.

12 breast measure.

as indicated

to 11

2

down

from Z
1

line

Q

Shape

to LS

Shape

Square back from K, finding point

n

2

Extend width of

in.

to 11

out.

16 to 18

M.

from J

a line

1 to 13 is

>^ in.

is

Square down from M.

R

from

1/6 breast measure.

is

P and

to

as

as a pivot.

diagram from

to

Shape neck hole as shown

34 waist measure.

X

in.

Square up and down from G.

is

to 4, 4 to 12

to 6, using point

5

same distance

Draw

to

from 2

using point

6,

Square up and down from H.

L
C

2.

to 6.

Sweep forward from

in.

Square up from

in.

2 as a pivot.

in.

2%

is

shown

as

%

in. at

1/6 breast measure.

is

8

ft.

in.

Sweep backward from

and E.

B
F
B

5

in..

in.

i^ breast measure.

is

43^

to 10.

and down

Square out B, C,

2 to

is

U

desired.

in.

8 to 4

Apply

10 to 14 and
1

height plus

heisrht of

in.

DrcLft

Square out and down from A.

A
V
A

on

41

is

33-^

in.

dash

complete.

lines

and

regular

Single

and Double Breasted Sack Overcoat

DIAGRAM NO.

6.

The Frock Coat
The frock
is

coat, as

worn

down

a heritage handed

in the

to

us by our ancestors.

a modification of the coat which has been

It is

by gentlemen

hundreds of years, and

for

much worn by

all classes,

The

twentieth century,

is

worn

today as

strict

regulation as to

what

is

proper

in the

and material of the double-breasted frock, ex-

cut

tends also to the accessories of the costume which

worn with

are

it.

which have always affected

A

standing, or poke collar, a white shirt, an As-

as ever.

it,

cot or puff tie of

Today

the frock coat

is

cream or gray,

silk hat,

patent leather

worn usually by profesor varnished shoes, and white or gray gloves are re-

men, the better

sional

class of business

men, and for

garded by well dressed men as correct, and the fashformal day dress.
ion

The double-breasted

is

ularized by the late Prince Consort of England, has

grown

into the correct

For day
it

the

is

for formal

As

only correct garment.

from season

mark

garment

is

little

variation

in

to season, the changes

in

other dress

general design
in

model which

of buttons,

With

facing, the

is

frock in

single-breasted

its

various models

very generally worn by professional and business

men

as a business coat.

tion

grows

fessional

The tendency

in that direc-

steadily stronger every year, as

men want

to

wear something

most pro-

different

in

design from the ordinary sack coat.

a business coat

in the accessories

much more

worn with

latitude

is

allowed

the single-breasted frock,

etc.

is

usually

black or Oxford gray materials, trousers

of gray striped worsted are worn, although
is

As

nmnber and placing

the double-breasted frock, which

made from

the

The

the necessary differences in fashion being mainly

in the collars, lapels,

vest

day dress.

receptions, weddings, church wear, etc.,

garments, there

not likely to change for several years.

frock, or Prince Albert, pop-

if

a fancy

part of the costume, the trousers should be of

same material

as the coat.

than with the double-breasted.
collars,

a four-in-hand

tie,

may

be worn, although

if

and

other

as

accessories

breasted frock

mav

Any

and a

the coat

worn

of the business

soft or
is

derby hat

black, a silk hat

with

the

be worn for semi-dress.

double

Frock Coats

t^S

SINGLE BREASTED, OR MORNING FROCK.
DOUBLE BREASTED, OR PRINCE ALBERT

Outline for

Body of Frock Coat

Measures Used
37

Breast

36

in.

Seat

Waist

32

in.

Height

To

A

is

Yi breast measure.

Square back from K, finding point Z.

is

3

Rule a

C

D

is

in.

to

F

to

H

%

is

L
C

of height.

3-4

V/o

is

in.

C and

M

to

U

B

to

S

is

Shape

S

to

G

is

G

to

W

in.

breast measure.

B

to

N

N

to I

is

M

>4

to 4

U

point

1,

using

G

Square up and down from

as a pivot.

line

T

to

1/6 breast measure.

line
is
is

from

Q

to

from 2

O

I.

to

P

1/6 breast measure.

Rule a

^

Rule a

in.

32

7.

J4 waist measure.

22 to 9

T
R

as

waist suppression.

I.

Rule a

to

from 23

to

8 and

from S

to 6.

is

1/6 breast measure.

is

1/6 breast measure.

line
line

from J
from G

is

divided into

2 and 3 indicate.

4,

same distance

is

X
A

iUustration

waist suppression, which

Square out from X.

Rule a

U.

to

J^ waist measure.

is

is

is

is

V

shown by

7 to 6

O

from

Yz breast measure.

is

as

in.

to

to Z.

3^ of breast measure.

is

to 23

8 to 7

Sweep backward from
is

3/

X

three equal parts, as Figs.

in.

Square down from

X

in.
in.

line

to 8

4 to

breast measure.

234

is

in.

down.

in.

1/6 breast measure.

is

2

is
is

Rule a

Square up from H.

33/2

from

line

to

U
K

J<2

in.

Square down from U.

D.

breast measure.

1><

is

8

to R.

B

Square up and down from G.

to

W

V

Square out B,

1

from

line

to

to

B
F

Rule a

to

to

C

ft.

DraLft

Square out and down from A.

A
V

5

to P.
to 23.

to

U, or

%

of

Outline for Body of Frock Coat

33

Three Button Frock— continued
A

E

to

5^ height plus 2

is

24 to 10

is

J4 in.

23 to 13

is

^

in.

Shape back of
from 13

K

to 11

body

side

24 and

to 7,

R

R.

to

%

to

ilhistration

and

6 to 5

is

from

illustration

%

in.

down

and S

to 20,

to 5

Shape bottom of

as

from 4

X

Y

ilhistration

and down

from S

to

is

minus
to 20,

J4

is

same distance

as

from

R

to 11

lines

minus

to 18, 18

in.

seat measure.

-j

from 10

line

10 to 17

is

12 to 27

is

to 15

and down.

same distance

as

from

D

to

E

in.

1

in.,

from 25

illustration

1/12 seat measure.

from 10

to 17

in illustration

from

same distance

as

in.

Shape top

and

in.

of skirt as

shown

above point 10 to point

Shape front and back of

from 10 to

17,

12.

skirt as

extending

J-j

in.

shown by

solid

opposite point

15.

Shape armhole

as

shown by

illustration

from

Shape bottom of

Y

from 17

to 13.

Shape shoulder from

X

to

From

P and
I

to 18

Y

to

Draw

a line

o

to ^4 in. in front of point

1 1

Shape

From

From X

to 29

29 to 30

is

29 to 31

is

is

illustration

\'

in

shown

in

diagram.

front of neckhole and finish as

a. r
'as

and from 29

and up.

shown by

represented.

is 1 3/2 in.

from 18

as

a \^ in front part as

Take out

out.

skirt

to 27.

Take out

X, and shape neckhole

C
X

14 to 15

1

3

is

in.

to 9.

>'2

is

From

6 and

to 21.

body from 10

side

is

10 to 14

plus 14

Vs in.

from

down

From

to 9.

to

19 and

to 2, or

shape bottom of front part as shown by illustration

from 21

shown by

as

Rule a

same distance

shown by

as

Shape

above

11 to 23.

I'j

is

to 25

9 to 12

of waist suppression.

Shape

to 19

From 26

yi in.

is

to 11

From

shown by

as

10.

Shape as shown by

A

From

in.

from outune

shown

in

illustration

from 30

to 29

from 30

to 32,

to 31.

25 to 32

is

I'j inches.

1/6 breast measure.
32 to 33

1%. inches.
2 inches.

is

1-34

inches.

Shape as shown
31 to 33

and 33 to

32.

in

illustration

Three Button Frock

Double Breasted Frock Coat
Me8LS\ires bls Follo^vs
Natural waist

.
.

.

.

.

in.

Seat

17

37

in.

Fashionable waist

.18>4

in.

Height

Full length

.40

in.

Weight

135 lbs.

Breast

.36

in.

Attitude

Normal

Waist

.32

in.

To
A

to

Y

to

V

4 to

.\ to

is

natural waist length.

A

D

is

fashionable waist length.

A

to

E

to

3

in.

full

is

to

F

F
B

to

H

to

S

is

^

S

to

G

is

V/2

G

to

W

B

to

N

N

to

B

I

\y2

'

and E.

in.

Shape
24 to

in.

A

to
to

T
R

in.

is

1/6 breast.

is

^

Q

1,

using point

G

as

a

pivot.
1

to

X

Square back from point K, finding point
Rule a line from X to Z.

L

to

Q

to

is
is

to

U

y,

.Square

down from U.
line

to

8

to

23

is

to 11

is

is

from

J/g

V

shown by

yi

to

to

to

in.

AI to 4

is
is

2

line

Y

is

9 to 12

is

to

2V2

3K

28 to 27

in.

m.

lapel according to style.

Rule a

and

Add

3

is

in.

to 25,

from 25

and down

to 27

to

8.

from

A

to R,

in.

J4 waist measure.

.A,

R

and shape as

to 11. 11 to 23,

24 and down.

shown by

illustration

10 to 14

is

%

14 to 15

is

1/12 seat measure.
to 15

same distance

is

and shape

from 10

to 12.

seat measure.

from 10

line

and down.
as

from

D

to E, plus

in.

12 to 19

top of back at

to

to top of skirt at point 10

in.

10 to 17
y2

from 12

line

%

Rule a

line.

%

top of skirt as

in.

illustration

M

I,

U.

23 to 8 and down.

L

to

Yi breast measure.

Square down from

Add

and

to 9.

Square down from 12 by fashionable waist
in.
is 9 in.
23 to 24 is

breast measure.

y2

in.

3/^

13 to 7

1-6 breast measure, plus J^ in.

is

12 to 23

in.

Rule a

U
K
K

P

Shape from 26

1/6 breast measure.
J4 waist measure.

is

from

illustration

in.
is

12.

Shape as shown by illustration from
down.
22 to 9 is 1/6 breast measure.

C

to

26 to 25

Z.

Square out from X.

X

%

is

23 to 13

10.

Peak

>4 in.

is

24 to 10
23.

from yi in. forward of J to P.
same distance as R to 11, minus fg in.
Shape armhole from Y to 13.
Shape shoulder from Y to X.
Shape neckhole from X to P.
Lay your square level from 9 to 22 and draw a
straight line up to 26.

X

W

line

waist suppression, or same distance

shown by

as

Rule a

in.

from
to R.
Sweep back from point

Rule a

%

Shape from S to 6 and 20.
Shape from S to 5 and 21.
Shape from 10 to 20 and from 21

Square down from I.
Square up from \\'.
Square up and down from G.
Square up from H.

T

J4 waist measure.

is

Square down from 7.
Draw a line from G to

breast measure.

2^4

U.

as 4 to 2.

breast measure.

is

divided into

is

73 waist suppression, or same distance

is

to

5 to 6 is

1-6 breast measure.

is

is

D

from 2

7 to 6

breast measure.

is 1/3
is

as

length of coat.

Square out B, C,

waist suppression, which

is

8 to 7

B
C

is

U

three equal parts, as Figs. 4, 2 and 3 indicate.

breast measure.

is 1.3

8

in.

Dra^ft

down from A.

.Square out and

5

ft.

is

same distance

as 10 to 17

minus

1

in.

Shape back of skirt from 10 to 17 extending
and bottom of skirt from 17 to 19 as

y2 in. at 15,

shown in illustration.
Take out a V in

Add
as shown.

I3-J

in.

front part as shown.

to back

from

D

and down and

finish

Double Breasted Frock Coat

37

Frock Coat for Corpulent Figure
Measures as Follows:
17

Natural waist

in.

Breast

42

ni.

42

in.

Fashionable waist

IS^/j

in.

Waist

Full

2,7

in.

Seat

lensrth

43

in.

To Draft
Square out and down from A.
to V is 1/3 breast measure.

A
V
A
A
A

to

B
C

to

D

to

E

to

3

is

natural waist length.

in.

to

F

to

H

to

S

S

to

G

is full

ly.

is

D

to

W

to

N

N

to I

214

is

R

^

is

in.

to

U

to 23

is

K

to 11

is

to 8

Add
shown

is

W

Z.

in.

y^

from

to

X

first

is

inch waist measure
the waist
total

4

is

A

to R.

R

to 11, 11 to 23,

in.

1

X

to
to

O

is

is

y2
is

X, using point

G

as a pivot.

then add y% in. for each
over proportion. In this case
in,

;

over normal

;

for that reason the
is

1

in.

Take out

y^ in.

same distance

as

from 10

to 17.

minus

Y

is

to

P

is

same distance as R to 11, minus y^ in.
1/6 lireast measure.
Shape armhole from Y to 13; shoulder from
to X, and neckhole from X to P.
1

to 18

is

l;/'

ill-

is

1'4

in.

laix'l

desired,

and shape same,

shape as shown by illustration from 10 to 17 on back

9.

between 25 and 27 of

Y

is

of skirt, and a three-button frock

34 waist measure.

Y

amount

as well as front, front of skirt, bottom of skirt, and

1/6 breast measure.
measure.

a

is

Extend width of

1/ waist

Square back from
is

waist suppression, or same

to

to 19

Rule a line from O to I,
and down.
22 to 9 is 1/6 breast measure.
9 to 25

i/i'i

in.

X

to

amount from 1 to X in this instance
Rule a line from 1 to Z.
Square out from X.

L

waist measure.

as per illustration

12 to 26
1

to 16.

Sweep back from
1

U.

,'4

K' in.

of back at A, and shajjc as

to top

down

23 to 8 and

5 is

to

"':')

J^ in.

in illustration

divided into

from 13 to 7 and down.
from S to 6 and down.
from S to 5 and down.
from 10 to 20, 21 to 27, and shape top of
skirt as shown in illustration from 10 to 12.
10 to 14 is
seat measure.
14 to 15 is 1 '12 seat measure.
Rule a line from 10 to 15 and down.
10 to 17 is same distance as from D to E plus

J^ breast measure.
y% breast measure.

in.

is

23 to 13

Square down from U.
Rule a line from V to U.

U
K

is

73 of waist suppression, or same

is

from 2

Shape
Shape
Shape
Shape

in.

5^

is

waist measure.

waist suppression, which

is

.

to R.
Rule a line from
Square back from K, finding point

C

in.

8 to 7

as

6 to

Square up and down from G.
Square up from H.
A to T is 1/6 breast measure.
to

j.4

from 2 to 4.
Square down from 7.
Point 10 is •)4 ill. below fashionable waist line.
From 9 to 12 is, first V2 in., same as in normal,
plus the amount which is taken out between 25 and
27
In this instance from 9 to 12 would be 1 in.

Square down from I.
Square up from W.

T

is

U

at waist.

would be taken out

as

breast measure.

is

4

7 to 6

1/6 breast measure.

is

2

From
amount

in.

in.

is 3^/2

to

J4 in.

three equal parts as Figs. 4, 2 and 3 indicate.

y, breast measure.

is

G

4

length of coat.

is

to

in.,

27.

M

to

M

and E.
breast measure.

%

is

B

L

fashionable waist length.

Square out B, C,

B
F
B

In this instance, being 4

between 25 and

is

is

man measures over normal

every inch the

J/^

in.

for

is

finished.

For double breasted effect shown by dash lines,
see normal draft of double breasted frock, as the
shape of front and skirt is identical with it.
The technical part for V in front and more
crooked shoulder are the same as for this diagram.

Frock Coat for Corpulent Figure

DIAGRAM

39

No.

10

for Stout Figure

Biagram

DIAGRAM

No.

11

Mea-sures:
46

Breast
All regular points are obtained in the

Then apply waist measure on

same man-

ner as for corpulent coat with the following additions

33

is

E

is

to

4 to

^

in.

for every inch the subject

5

measures more over waist than breast.
Shape from O through 33 to E and square down

M

is

obtained

in

the

same manner

to

30

is

is

waist suppression and

is

divided in the

same distance

as

32

is
is

same distance
same distance

as

I

to 33.

as I to 33.

Take out the difiference between S and 31, as per
diagram, also shape armhole, and if for sack coat,
perform the same operation and take out the excess

as in

regular draft.

M

C

to 31

G to

from E.
Point

J^s from 30

the

usual manner.

in.

extra y%

in.

to 4.

and deductions
I to

?0

Waist

in.

at side

to E.
iO

seam, as shown by dash

lines.

Definitions of Types
Second Section
Having completed the study
patterns from

of Section

Measurements

(Measurements), as

1

well

as

drawing proportionate

Height and Circumference, and the section on Exaggerations, we now arrive

definition of types.

at the

In actual practice the Definition of Types comes immediately after the First

we have

Section of Measurements, and for this reason
plain the subject in a comprehensive

manner

a

with the idea that the student

may

ular code of types of variations

from the normal

A

of

so arranged the illustrations.

number

In order to ex-

of types in figures, illustrated, are introduced,

study the types and forms of men, and

fix in his

mind the

reg-

figure.

subject can be either:

Sloping or Square Shouldered.

Large or small blades.
Stooping or Erect.

Head forward

Long

or backward.

or short neck.

The degrees

of these variations

1.

Slight inclination.

2.

Medium

3.

Extreme

These degrees
fore, after

from the normal are three

in

number and

are termed:

inclination.

inclination.

of deformation hold

good

in

any

of the

having taken the measurements stipulated

weight, and ascertaining the style

of

garment

above stated types from the normal. There-

in Section

desired,

make

1,

as well as registering height

and

a thorough examination of the custom-

er's figure

and

Find the inclination at back of neck by placing the yard stick

attitude.

shown

of the straight line

in illustration of

in position

Relative Heights, and with the regular tailoring square

pressed against the neck point, ascertain the distance from the neck-point to the yard stick.

normal inclination

2^

is

inches.

or holds his head forward.

If

If

the distance

distance

is

less

it

is

greater

it

indicates that the customer

indicates that he

erect or holds his

is

is

The

stooping

head backward.

a student with an active mind a mere glance will suffice to give character to the form and classify

To

By

the type.

first

viewing the customer from the front a cutter

able to ascertain whether he

is

is

sloping or square shouldered, and in what degree, also, to notice the development of the muscles

and whether he

and

broad or narrow chested.

Next

is

well to view the customer from the side or
is

stooping, or

using the inclination as a guide, or whether he holds only his head forward or backward,

in

what degree.

and stipulate

in

Next, observing the customer from the back will enable a cutter to notice

what degree the customer has large or small blades or long or short neck.

to give the final idea of the extent of the degree of
of

it

This will enable the cutter to notice and stipulate in what degree the customer

profile.

erect,

is

which

all,

deformation

In order

five different illustrations are

shown,

with the exception of the Normal, show the Second degree of variation from the Normal.

^S^;:

Fig.

1.

Fig.

2.

Normal.
Square Shoulders.

Fig.

3.

Sloping shoulders.

Fig.

4.

Erect.

Fig.

5.

Stooping.

In providing for the requirements of the different forms

two or more types

in

one subject.

we

constantly

come

in

contact with

For example, a man can be both Sloping and Stooping, or he can

be Sloping, Stooping and have large blades, and also have a long or short neck in that connection; or
he can be Square, small blades and erect,
ing,

and Figure

7

etc., etc.

for Square, small blades

(See Figure 5 for Sloping, large blades and Stoop-

and Erect.)

In studying the various types for the different subjects be sure that the illustrations pertaining
to

them

are thoroughly understood.

Then

yourself the three

picture to

yourself before a mirror and arrange yourself

first in

Normal

the

different

Place

degrees.

position, then in the

first,

next in

the second, and finally in the third degree of Square.

Next arrange yourself as nearly as possible
study your

own form

in the three

degrees of Sloping.

large or small blades. Stooping or Erect,

for

places notice the different types and forms of men.

tions
will

from

it

and

fix

it

will be for you.

the degree.

It will

Always carry

in

this is

and whenever

Ascertain whether this or that

short neck, or any other deformation, and in what degree.
this study the better

etc.,

When
man

done

in public

has a long or

The sooner you accustom

yourself to

your mind the Normal and notice the varia-

surprise ycu to find that in a comparatively short time

be able to classify the different types and stipulate the degree

of variation

you

with promptness and

exactness so that you can apply them in actual practice.

The Second

Section of Measurement consists of defining

all

the types and degrees of variation, and

should, therefore, be entered on your order book just after the First Section of

Measurements and

before taking direct measures, so as to be sure that the variations have been thoroughly stipulated, as
variations in drafting belong to the scientific part.

These deformations

of types

or applying direct measures.

tomer

is

of variation

in the first,

sloping in the

first,

must be thoroughly defined before taking

Therefore, stipulate in your order book as Section 2 whether the cus-

Normal

Or square
Or

and degrees

second or third degree.

second or third degree.
4.1

Or

large blades in the

Or small

blades in the

Or

stooping in the

Or

erect in the

Or long neck

Or

first,

second or third degree.

in the first,

short neck in the

Or head forward

second or third degree.

first,

in the

Or head backward

second or third degree,

second or third degree.

first,

first,

second or third degree,

first,

second or third degree,
second or third degree.

first,

second or third degree.

in the first,

Then, again, caution should be exercised
ing, the application of

them

have prompt

will

with the form of the customer

if

degree of the above types, as

in stipulating the

effect

on the pattern.

in draft-

Therefore, do not try to find fault

on careful examination no noticeable inclination

any

to

of the

above

stated types can be found, as practice has demonstrated that a garment produced from a good proportionate pattern will
if

fit

men

at least one-half of the

the inclination to a certain type

is

so slight that

of the

it is

same height and circumference.

hard to distinguish,

would advise

I

Therefore,

to cut a pro-

portionate shoulder in the pattern.

Incline

How
tions.

to obtain the

The

incline

incline

illustrated

is

measurement

is

in

Relative

For application

Heights.

taken with the view of ascertaining whether the customer

or erect, head forward or backward, or whether he has large or

blades,

flat

conjunction with definition of types and in stipulating degrees of same.
either

more or

tomer

is

tional Yz
less

less

than normal means one degree.

For example

of incline the customer

2^4

If the

is

normal

distance

If the

is

The

incline

is

is

instructions see

stooping

in.

the cus-

and for each addicustomer measures
in either first,

than normal.

obtained by placing the yardstick perpendicularly against customer's back, and with

regular drafting square press against neck point.

neck point

is

Varia-

incline, 3^ in.

2^

than normal the incline indicates whether erect, head backward, or has small blades,
less

see

a valuable resource in

in. is

would be stipulated an additional degree.

second nr third degree, according to the amount he measures

to

:

and

either stooping, or has head forward, or has large blades in the first degree,
in.

draft

to

the incline.

For positions of

The

distance on the measuring square from yardstick

incline see illustration Relative to Heights.

Second Section of Measurements

in connection

cation to drafting see \^ariations.

44

For further

with Definition of Types, and for appli-

Variations

Diagram
or backward

A
in

illustrates variation of

head forward

Point

C

is

half

way between

A

and B.

Square

out from C.

second degree.

is half way between C and D.
Sweep up and down from A, using point
pivot, and sweep up and down from X, using

Point 12

Solid lines
illustrate

show normal shoulder

variation of head

lustrate variation of

backward

;

;

dotted lines

dash

lines

il-

head forward.

a

12 as
point

12 as a pivot.

Head Forward
Stipulate degree of variation for head forward by

either J4

in--

Rule a

Y^ in. or

line

^

from 2

from A to 2 and X to 8.
Z and square out by same

in.

to

line

from point 2

as indicated

by dash

lines,

thereby

finding point 8 on front shoulder.

Head Backward
in.,

line,

For head backward stipulate degree by either 34
in. from A to 3 and X to 7.
2 in. or
Rule a line from 3 to Z and square out by same
as illustrated by dotted lines from point 3, finding

point 7 on front shoulder,

%

The

other lines e.xplain themselves.

inclination
thi s

and

fliaarram.

Always study

definition of types in connection with

Variations

^h^^'m^^

^V^<>1

Stooping
Diagram B

Draw

stooping and

illustrates variation for

dash

erect.

Solid

illustrate

lines

normal, dash

stooping, and dotted lines illustrate erect.

Point

H

half

is

way between

W and B.

Stipulate variation by 34 '"> 3^

B

in.

or y^

from

in.

to 12.

from 12

to

H

and out

as

shown by

Square up from same line from W, G, H and 12.
12 to 2 is y^ breast measure, plus 3 in.
Square out from 2 by dash line, finding point 8.

show

lines

a line

line.

Shape back, armhole, shoulders and neckhole
shown by dash line for stooping.

as

Erect
For
in.

or

%

erect, stipulate
in.

Draw

from B

a line

dotted breast

Square

degree of variation 34

i")

from 13

to

H

and out as shown by

from dotted

line

from

W,

G,

H

and

point 13.
13 to 3

1

3

find point 7

and thoroughly

breast measure, plus 3

in.

b)'

dotted line

as

inclination in

stipulate

degree

of

variation.

Width of

Q
is

Square out from point 3 as shown
and

shown by dotted line for erect.
Always study definition of type and
this connection,

line.

tip

Shape back, armhole, shoulders and neckhole

V^

to 13.

from
and 9 to 14, are each 1-6 breast, the
normal coat. All points below breast line
back, the depth of neckhole as

to P, 10 to 15

same

as in

are found in the regular

and manipulations for

manner

sizes.

subject to variations

Variations

Diagram C

illustrates

large

Solid lines

show normal, dash

and dotted

lines

show small

and

lines

small

show

blade.

large blade

or

G

%

in.,

to 7

is

anil

blade.

from

FI to

6

is

FI to 5 is

"''v

/^

by

dash

lines

for

varying from G.
for large blade

and

G

as from

same distance

same distance

as from

G

G

to 8,
to

7.

Shape back, armhole and shoulders as shown

Stipulate degree of variation by either 34
in.

ample, from

shoulder, and back as
to 8

is

large

blade

;

sharp

shown by dotted

armhole,

line for small

for small

blade.

blade.
It will

moves

in

Always study

be clearly seen that the' width, of back

same direction

as front of scve.

For ex-

in

definition of types

connection with this diagram.

and inclination

Variations

Diagram
ders.

D

show normal, dash

and dotted

sloping,

and square shoul-

illustrates sloping

Solid lines

lines

illustrate

lines illustrate square.

>2

in.

or 34

in.

from

from point B by

B

Square out from point 2; from
distance as from

from B

B

to 2

and

Y

to

9

is

to 2.

K

to 5

as

is

same

same distance

to 2.

Shape

or ^4

^n.

from point

K

to 4

distance as

is

B

to

front shoulder as

3.

line for square.

^

in.,

yi

to point 3.

same distance

as

B

line.

to 3

;

Y

to 7 is

same

Shape shoulder, armhole and

shown by dash

line for sloping.

as

Always study

shown by dotted

B

Square out as shown by dash

Stipulate degree of variation
i"-,

Stipulate degree of variation by either
in.

For SquaLre
either 14

For Sloping

with this diagram.

definition

of types

in

connection

Variations,

Diagram E

illustrates

The arrow shows
tween B and

Shape top of back and front shoulder

long and short neck.

point

and

1

half

is

way

by dotted

be-

Yz

in.,

Short Neck
Stipulate degree of variation by Y^

line

shown

long neck.

line for

W.

Long Neck
Rule a

as

from

1

to

X

and

%

in.

from

A

to 3

and from

X

Square out from point 7 by balance

out.

in.,

or

to 7.
line.

Shape top of back, front shoulder and neckhole
Stipulate degree of variation by ]\

in..

>'<

in.,

or
as

^4 in. for long

neck from

Square out from

A

to 2

and

X

to 6.

shown by dash

line for short neck.

Always study definition of type, in connection
with this diagram.

6.

49

Sleeves
All sleeves must be produced

from the

size

of

Therefore, always measure your armhole

armhole.

and whatever the armhole

is

circumference use

in

that for 3-our size of sleeve.

For example,
in

if

your armhole or scye

is

18

in.

circumference use 18 as a drafting size for your

sleeve.

produced from an 18 in. armhole
length from the armpit to the hand.

This sleeve

and

is

18

in. in

is

To

Dracft

Square out and down from

A

to

A
B

is

1/12 arm-scye.

to

C
B

is

% arm-scye.

to

E

is

1/6 arm-scye.

B

to

D

is

1

B
P

to

P

to

R

is

half

K

is

is

in.

full

V.A

length of sleeve.
in.

way between B and

Square out C, B,

A
A

to

F

is

to

G

is

.\.

K

P.

and R.

54 arm-scye.
3^ arm-scye.

Square down from G.

H
C
P

to J

is

3^ arm-scye.

L is 3^ arm-scye.
to N is 63/2 in., making

to

a finished cuff ol

12

inches.

Shape as shown in illustration from D to L, F
and H.
Rule a line from E to J and shape as shown in
illustration from D to J.
Shape from H to N.
Shape from P to N.
Shape from J to O and N.

K

to 5

is

^

in.

Shape as shown in illustration from D to 5 and P.
If seam is desired under the arm add }^ in.
from B to 1 and P to 3.
Shape as shown by dasji line from D to 1, and
1

P

to 3.

to

Reduce the under-sleeve 'V^
4 and shape from 2 to 4.

in.

from

B

to 2

and

Sleeve for Stooping

Broad Shoulder

and Erect

In sleeves

for

stooping and erect balance line

must be changed
dash lines on diagram.
at

front

as

shown by dotted and
If shoulders are

For Stooping
Dotted

lines

on

indicate stooping.

by 3/2 in., 1 in. or
\y2 in. from P to 2. Shape top and under sleeve as
shown by dotted line from H to 2 and J to 2 and
from D to 2.
Stipulate degree of variation

—

lines indicate erect.

Stipvjlate

degree of variation by J4

the sleeve,

and

if

sleeve should be less.

narrow a high top

is

necessary

shoulders are wide the top of

Therefore, in the diagram per-

taining to high and low tops on sleeves, the dotted
lines

low

illustrate

the high top and the dash lines the

The

construction lines are the same as in

top.

the normal sleeve, which has been explained, but

For Erect
Dash

Narrow and

Sleeve for

in.,

1

in.

or

from P to 1. Shape top and under sleeve as
1^
shown by dash lines from H to 1 and T to 1 and
from D to 1.
in.

—

it

must be understood that the amount you reduce the
width of shoulder must be added to the sleeve and
the amount you widen the shoulder of coat must be
taken from the sleeve.
Earnest attention should be
oiven to this in drafting.

Direct Measures
Third Section
Having
and order

in the First

in

and Second Sections

of

Measurements

Measurements

of

which measurements should be taken, as well as the Definition

Deformation and application to draft of these variations,
all

illustrated

I

would

like to

measurements, as well as the Definition of Types, are a matter

and instructed the manner
and the Degrees

of types

have

it

understood that, while

judgment, that in application to

of

the draft, the proportions, heights and circumference, as well as variation of attitudes,

the same principle,

and

are, therefore, the

fundamental and

scientific

heretofore taken in connection with the fundamental principles

we

any part
and

scientific point of

of the

to

and from any part

in itself

aggravating,

is

on these supplementary measures for symmetry and grace, but

to rely

the past been considered, and in
as an independent

term proportionate

Short, or direct measures are

The name

of the draft.

nection with fundamentals they act as a guide to attitudes.

known

Measures

view supplementary measures, as these measures can be taken from and to

body and applied

would be unwise

it

spring from

all

part of this work.

shall, therefore,

measures, as they have reference only to lengths and circumference.

from the

of

fact,

method

in con-

While proportions and variations have

in

are a system in themselves, direct measures have also been

for the production of clothes.

Modern developments and

practical

application of both principles and theories are not only beneficial and practical, but a necessity, hence,
this

combination of the two principles: a methodical

tion with fundamental

and

scientific

way

of

measurement, and application in connec-

proportions and variations.

The term measuring means the

application of the measuring tape to and from different parts of the body, thereby ascertaining that

one part of the body

is

so

many

inches from another.

If

the space on which the measuring tape

applied differs from one side or the other, the different quantities of surface on which
are either smaller or larger than normal.
stood.

The most

essential direct, or

This

is

the theory of

supplementary measures are as follows
Blade measure.

Depth

of Scye.

Front measure.

Waist

length.

Strap measure.

Over shoulder measure.

to seat.

The chalk marks made on

the customer's back

to indicate the different stations for

would cause

all

when

proportionate measures were taken are meant

supplementary measures.

measures the utmost care should be exercised
as mismeasuring

was applied

it

measurements and should be so under-

Slope of shoulder.

Length

is

in

In taking these direct or supplementary

order to have them as nearly correct as possible,

kinds of trouble in patterns and try-on.

Toward

this

end

it is

hereby

suggested to the student that he procure for himself a measuring square on which the various proportions of these
will

now,

in a

measurements are

stipulated,

and with the tape attached

methodical way, proceed to take these supplementary measures.

behind the customer and place the end of the tape at point A, Plate
right

hand

to the angle of this square

to point Z, Plate

4,

4.

4,

tape pass through the right hand to point

C and

and register the measure for depth
register waist length

from

stand

Pass the tape through your

and register the measure for slope of shoulder.

through the right hand to point B, Plate

In measuring,

we

A

Next, pass the tape
of scye.

to C, Plate

Next,
4.

let

the

Next, pass

Measures

'Direct

FU\e ±

rii^^t 5.

r.3

the tape through the right hand to point D, and register length to seat, from
place the measuring square under the

but not so high that

it

would

ascertain that the square

Section of Measurements.

plementary measures

Now,

placed exactly level.

is

and while

in this connection,

illustration of front view, Plate

of front view, Plate

5,

it

will

it

is

of neck,

H

to D, Plate

placed well under the arm,

Particular care should be taken to

measure taken

ideal

5,

materially assist

in

obtaining better measure-

Having the square properly

placed,

5,

under arm to

model

for

in

B on back
in

view, Plate

same

4,

register blade measure.

position,

and register front meas-

Next, turn tape around and up on shoulder and to back

5.

H

and register strap measure from

B

shown

as

etc.,

proceed to take measures as follows:

to X, as per front view, Plate

to point

in the First

Also, proportion figures for the sup-

on front view, Plate

to

5,

A

on back view, Plate

turn the tape over shoulder to point B, and register over shoulder measure from point
Plate

Now,

4.

not certain that the measures taken will

Next, turn tape around and over breast, and hold square
ure from

is

recall the breast

Find the same figure on the square.

ments than without these tables of proportions.

H

said square

raise the shoulder of the customer.

correspond with these proportionate measures,

From

Be sure

arm.

left

A

of back view, Plate

The complete measurements

4.

Supreme System you have entered

Length

in

H

Next,

4.

front view,

for a coat of the style of the

your measuring book stand as follows
Seat

37 inches

14

"

Sleeve

18^

Breast

36

"

Height

5 feet

Waist

32

"

Weight

135

Width

29 inches
of

back

Shoulder slope

3 inches

Depth of scye
Waist length
Length to seat

9

1?!^

23^
all

8

pounds

ly^ inches

Incline

While these are

"

"
"
"

Blade
Front

11 inches
7

"

Strap

12

"

Over shoulder

17

"

the measures necessary, additional measures can be taken to and from any

point of the body and incorporated with other supplementary measures and applied in the

same man-

ner over draft, but practical cutters do not take more measures than necessary, for the reason that

would be confusing, and

my

advice to beginners

because supplementary measures are

difficult to

fit

differ

more value

your own

fundamental principles as possible,

By

using proportions and variations

satisfaction,

and where

from the fundamental, give proportions and variations

by cutting difference between the two points

ures are of

to stay as near

obtain correctly.

as heretofore stipulated, apply these measures for

mentary measures

is

in

direct, or supple-

at least half the bene-

two, placing the point in the middle.

to the experienced cutter or

it

Direct meas-

advanced student, as by experience they have

learned to take measurements with more exactness, so in application they are more experienced, consequently, they

more thoroughly understand the value

of these measures.

The

truth,

however,

is

a good, experienced cutter always lays up his proportions subject to height and circumference.

that

He

applies his variations to the draft according to the definition of attitude so as to place the different

points in position for measurements and finally applies direct measurements as he finds practical and
divides the difference between the fundamental and direct measures, as

my

advice to beginners shows.

Application of Measurements

Mea-sures

Ots Follow^s
9

in.

Blade

H

i"-

Strap

12

in.

Breast

36

in.

Depth of scye

Waist

32

in.

8

in.

Height

5

Normal

Attitude

Obtain

ft.

all scientific

points by regulations for cir-

line

From G

to

from

AA

distance as from

A

X
is

to

G

G

is

blade measure.

is

1>4

in.

(addition necessary to blade

measure for make up).

and down.

1/6 breast measure (or same

Apply strap measure plus
and the three most

to T).

Apply measure for depth of scye from
(no addition).

to 8

8 to

cumference and height.

Rule a

B

A

to

B

essential

J4 in.

from

plied to draft with the proper additions.

section of measurements.

AA

to

X,

measures have been ap-

Read

third

Application of Measurements

Mea.sures
in.

^8

Breast

a.s FolIoNvs:

-56 in.
Waist
5 ft. 10 in.
Height
(For large blade second degree, long neck second degree.)

To
First lay

up normal draft subject

to height

in.

Blade

12

in.

Strap

1-^34 in.

of back

in.

Apply blade measure plus V/z in. from B to D.
(Note that point G is normal.)
Apply strap measure, plus yi in., from AA to X.
Apply measure for width of back, plus ^ in.,
as shown in illustration.
Apply waist measure in regular manner from 12
to 13 and 9 to 5.
Add 3>^ in. for shape up on side of front part

and

at waist.

3.

B

7^

Dratft

Promptly note variations and degree of same and
apply them to draft as shown in illustration of variation (see Diagram C and E on Variations), thereby
placing your draft in position for measurements.
Draw a line from X to D and down.
D to AA is 1/6 breast measure, or same dis-

Apply measure for depth of scye from

10/4

Width

circumference.

tance from 6 to

Depth of scye

Read

to 6.
56

third section of measurements.

application of Measurements

Me&sures
40
40

Breast

Waist
Height, 5

ft.

8

in.,

a.s

Follows

:

in.

Blade

12

in.

in.

Strap

1354

in.

Over-shoulder

18^

stooping in second degree and

Front

sloping in second degree.

iyk

Incline

Depth of scye

11

Width

in.

of back

in.

8

in.

8

in.

in.

To Draft
Apply depth of scye from 7

First lay out your normal draft subject to height

and circumference.

Apply blade measure plus

Stipulate stooping in second degree as per Definition of

Types and

incline.

(See Diagram

B

Apply strap measure,

—Vari-

ations.)

Next

slope

same

in

second degree.

to

(See Diagram

D — Variations.)
is

Draw

a line from

D
as

now

Draft
to

AA

is

in position for

X to D

to 4.

1^/2 in.

plus '<

in.,

Apply over shoulder measure,
14 and D to J.

from 7

from

plus

1

to D.

AA

in.,

to

X.

from 7

Apply measure for width of back, plus J^- in., as
shown in illustration, and apply front measure, plus
% in., from D to E.

measurements.

and down.

Apply waist measure

1/6 breast measure, or same distance

Read

from 4 to T.
57

in regular

manner.

third section of measurements.

Application of Measurements

DIAG. N.

_5T

lOl

Li

cn|

asl

^1

-$1

iai

d

^1

SI

^g

MeaLSures
36

Breast

Waist
Height

30
5

ft.

4

bls

Blade

10^

in.

in.

Strap

11J4

in.

Over-shoulder

15^

in.

6i^

in.

TYi.

in.

erect in second degree, small

in.,

blade in second degree, square in second degree.
Incline

M

in-

Width

7%

in.

Front

1

Depth of scye

To
First lay

;

also as

back

Having

now
variations.

is

finished these preliminaries, the draft

in position for

Apply

shown from G to D on this diashown by illustrations Diagram C

Small blade

of

Dracft

up regulation draft subject to height

and circumference.
Promptly note

gram

Follows

in.

all

is

measurement.

measurements and allow same addi-

tions as previously illustrated

and explained

Applications of Measurements

;

measurements

waist,

in these

these

also note that

Variations.

Next

erect

draft

as

of types as stipulated in

Next square same
trated in Diagram D

—

per incline and definition

out a

Diagram B- -Variations.
shown by regulation illus-

V

in side

front part as

as

Variations.

inof
58

call

for

small

therefore,

and add 2 seams, or }4

shown by

small waist.

in.,

take

to side of

direction in diagram 2

show-

application of Measurements

This diagram

is

produced for the purpose of

how measurements

lustrating

tion with exaggerations,

by

illustration

plied in

and

will be

that depth of scye

same manner

as usual,

blade, with 1>4 in. addition,

from B

are appHed in connecit

which

ured in with the measurements, and these are the

il-

only three short measures to be applied in connec-

-

tion with proportions

clearly seen

and variations for an exagger-

ated coat.

and strap are apas

well as that of

In connection with the study and practice of these

is

the total distance

diagrams, thoroughly study the different types, height,

circumference and exaggerations; also, the three

to G.

ferent sections of measurements.

See Diagram Page 27 on Exaggerations.

G
and

to

this

D

is

the

amount

is

amount

the coat

is

introductory articles, as well as that

is.

Practice,

exaggerated,

allowed for draping necessary

an exaggerated garment, and

therefore,

not

Be sure

explanations.

fig-

59

to read the

on Theory and

and try to commit same to memory, as

of these have direct

in

dif-

all

bearing on these drawings and

Hunchback
This diagram
coat

is

illustrates the

manner

drafted for regular hunchback.

Squared

Waist

in.

in.

1/4

Head forward

from proportions and variations,
actual measures are of more value for a subject of this
kind than for any other.
Measures used as follows:
in.
15
Waist length
in.
21
Length to seat
in.
26
Full length
in.
36
Breast
can be produced

i2

36

Seat

which a
While same
in

in third degree.

Direct measures applied:

Upper width
Lower width

of back
of back

14

in.

15

in.

7^

Depth of scye
Blade
Front measure

in.

in.
in.

1

7

in.

Strap

10

in.

Over-shoulder

16^4

in.

To Draft
from 13

Square out and down from A.
A to 18 is breast measure.

Rule a

H

to 22

is

%

in.

18 to 20

B

to 19

is

34

in.

%

in.

to

B is 1^ in. for square.
C is waist length.

to

D

20 to

A
A
A

3

is

E

to

is full

to

S

is

J^ breast measure.

S

to

G

is

G

to

W

3j4

B

to

N

to I

Z

back

Square up from H.

is

half the distance between

1

to
to

A

13.

V

to

T

to

line

from

7.

L

to

M

is

to

G

and down.

5^ waist measure.

is

is

14 and

334

seat

U

10 to 12

to

M

and

to 8.

in.

measure on

%

of divisions

from 10

to 10.
is

l}i

in.

Reduce front part 34 in. at point 2.
Shape as shown by illustration from 2 to 3, 12
and down.
Sweep backward from point 5. using point 2 as

measure.

W

to

across

1/6 breast measure, or same distance

8 to 3

to X.

T is 1/6 breast
R is % in.

is

as a pivot.

Rule a line from
to R.
Square back from K, finding point Z.
Rule a line from X to Z.
K to 11 is same distance as B to 20, or lyi in.
X to 21 is same distance as R to 11 minus 34
21 to Y is same distance as B to 20, or I54 in.
Rule a line from X to Y.

C

line

in.

in illustration.

Apply waist measure from 4

Apply

V

shown
from X to

pivot.

V is % in.
X is ^ in.

Rule a

from

%

to B.

half the distance between 13 to

Sweep up from A, using point 9 as a
Sweep forward from 1, using point 9

A

to G.

in.

from V to T.
Apply strap measure plus 34 in. from AA to X.
Apply over-shoulder measure plus 1 in. from B
to 25 and G to 26.
in. from G to L
Apply front measure plus
Shape as shown in illustration from V to 13, V to
R, R to 11, 11 to 2, 2 to 4 and down.

W.

Square out from

to V.

as

I.

Square up and down from G.

Point 9

in.

half lower width of back plus 34

Rule a

in.

Square up from

is

J4

at point 17, as

G to AA

Square down from

Point 13

1/12 breast measure.

half upper width of back plus ^4

Apply

in.

1/6 breast measure.

254

is

is

is

and square down from 22.

to K.

breast measure.

is

to 15

15 to 2

19,

in.

H

is

on point

Apply

to

\y2

rest

H

and E.

F
B

is

and down.

breast measure.

D

F

is ip.

M

Apply measure for depth of scye from B
Apply blade measure plus 1J4 in. from B

to

N

same

length of coat.

Square out B, C,

B

to

Place corner of square at 22, letting short arm of

length to seat.

is

line

a pivot.

Sweep forward from 6

to 16, using point

X

as a

pivot.

in-

Shape armhole as shown

in

to 2.

Shape shoulder from

14 in.
60

Y

to X.

illustration

from

Y

Diagram

X

to

Q

Shape

is

as

for

Hunchback

1

1-6 breast measure.

shown

in ilkistration

from

Q

to

I,

to

P

is

24

is

to

and

iy2

in.

1J4

in-

Take out a

down.

Q

to 23

is

Shape

1-6 breast measure.

V

finish as

61

gorge as shown

shown.

in illustration.

and bottom.
and pockets in regular manner and

lapel, front

Place collar

Rule a line from J to P.
Shape neckhole from X to P.

in

Overcoats
The

shifting

and uncertain

characterizes most of

may

be put on or

to suit the differences in climate.

By common

garment.

of

consent

overcoat has been adopted
this

wliich

northern hemisphere makes

tlie

necessary an overgarment which

removed

temperature

Fashion

in
in

men

well-dressed

America

model for

as the

overcoats

the

decrees

yet in late years the

fashionable models have been

or

Chesterfield

body

less

is

wear and

called a covert coat,

is

with which

box

it

overcoat,

The

fitting.

box overcoat

short

designed for riding, driving or country

from the material

The

usually built.

is

ulster

a long

is

coat.

There

from

is little

change of design

in

garments made

heavy materials, for wear

in cool

or extremely cold weather, the material only

makes

either light or

between the spring and

divided into the loose coats without a waist seam,

the

and the frock overcoats, on the order of the New-

winter overcoats.

difiference

In

market.

sack

the

which may be more or

many

changes, sometimes rapid, other times slowly growing,

and

shoulders,

strictly

dress

overcoats,

the

fall

and tRe

Inverness

with

a cape, for evening wear, has been the favored garFirst one style and then the other has the vogue,

ment

number

for a

of years, and while recently

it

has

but seldom do the two general designs become popsuffered
ular at the

same

there

When

the frock overcoats are in favor the straight

backed variety

The

is

usually not largely worn.

single-breasted frock overcoat

Newmarket, the double-breasted

eclipse

is

favor.

is

in

reason to believe
Certainly no

ment could be worn
called the

the Surtout.

In the straight falling style there are two
els,

an

favor of the

sack overcoat,

time.

the straight, box back overcoat, falling from the

its

slowly coming back into

more graceful and becoming garfor formal dress.

Sometimes a novel idea
the surface, but

mod-

it is

reign

is

in

overcoats comes to

usually short lived.

was the Raglan, which was

so popular a

Such

few years

Overcoats

FRONT AND BACK VIEWS OF
SINGLE BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT

Exaggerated Single and Double Breasted Box Coat
Mea-surements Used
Waist length

Length to seat

Follows

a.re a.s

17i4 in

Excess, four

sizes.

24

Height, 5

8

in.

ft.

in.

Attitude, normal.

Full length of coat

45

in.

Breast

40

in.

Direct measures
Depth of scye

Waist

36

in.

Blade

12

in.

Seat

41

in.

Strap

13

in.

To

C

V

From

A
A
A

B

3 in.

is

to

C

to

D

is

to

E

is

is

A

length to seat.

Rule a

K

length of coat.

to

H

is

\y2

to

S

is

54 regular breast measure.

in.

S to 5 is 3^/2 in.
Apply blade measure plus lj4
5 to
is

G

in.

in.

3 to

is

W

is

B

from

to

10 to 12

5.

1/6 regular breast measure.
J^ in. for each size the coat

N

to I

is
is

is

W

is

A

to
to

%

to
to

breast measure.
I

Q is 1/6 breast measure.
O is half of regular waist

inch for every inch the coat

this case

1

Shape

down

as

shown

in illustration

is

31/

to

P

is

in.

as

X

as

from

Y

to 18, using point

1/6 regular breast measure.
in

ilUistration

is

exaggerated.

from

Add

1

in.

to front length at point 18.

Shape front for single-breasted coat

In

Q

to

I,

and

as

shown by

solid lines.

For double breasted, dash

lines illustrate the front

part.

Extend 4 in. on front from points I,
Peak lapel as shown in illustration.

Make width
measure plus

in.

to 18.

top of back at point A.

Shape shoulder from Y to X.
Shape neck hole from X to P and out.
Extend a button-stand to front of 2 inches from
to 15 and 18 to 16 for single-breasted coat.
to 13,

W

X

in.

3-4

to 2.

Rule a line from
to R.
Square back from K, finding point Z.
Rule a line from X to G and down.
G to AA is 1/6 breast measure, or same distance
as from A to T.
Apply strap measure plus J^ in. from AA to X.
Rule a line from Z to X.

L

out.

the pivot.

in.

T is 1/6 regular
R is % in.

and

to 17

Rule a line from J to P.
Shape armhole as shown

Square up from W.
Square up and down from G.
Square up from H.

T

in.

Sweep forward from 6

exag-

exaggerated breast measure.
2J4

1

B

the pivot.

Q
N

to

is

from

Reduce front part J4 in. at point 2.
Rule a line from 2 to 12 and down.
Sweep backward from 5 to 6, using point 2

for each size the

in.

B

and down.

would be 45 on the two-thirds of the divisions
from 18 to 14 and U to 10.

In this case the distance from 3 to

gerated.

M

case

to 44.

to 3

is

to

J^ exaggerated breast measure.
from S to 18 and down.

in. at

Ys,

V

is

Shape as shown in illustration from A to R, R to
and 11 to 2.
Apply exaggerated seat measure, which in this

garment
garment being exaggerated from

or ^4

1 in.,

exaggerated, this

B

y2

is

11

in.

from

to 17

line

to 11

Add

>^

line

H

waist length.

full

is

line

14 to 18

From

%
%

F
B

to

Rule a

to B.

Square out B, C, D and E.
regular breast measure.
B to 4 is
exaggerated breast measure.
B to F is

40

M

Rule a

to

in.

Draft

Square out and down from A.
A to V is Vg, breast measure.

Apply measure for depth of scye from

9^

V

in the

of lapel at top

gorge, as

shown

Place the pockets

3^

in.

and

18.

and take out

in illustration.

down

% of the sleeve

length.

For top coat as shown by dot and dash lines produce same coat as heretofore described with the exception of the length, which may be 34 to 36 in.

Exaggerated Single and Double Breasted Box Overcoat

65

Single Breasted
Solid lines indicate front of

way

indicate the

lines

This diagram

the

Hewmarket and Double Breasted Surtout
Newmarket and dash

front

cut for surtout.

is

produced from the following meas-

is

Waist

36

Seat

41

Height

5

in.
in.

8

in.

9^

in.

ft.

Attitude, normal.

ures:

Natural waist

17

Fashionable waist

18 J4 in.

Direct measures
Depth of scye

Full length of coat

48

in.

Blade

12

in.

Breast

40

in.

Strap

13

in.

in.

To Draft
Square out and down from A.
A to V is y^ breast measure.

A
A
A

V

to

C

is

to

D

is

fashionable waist length.

to

E

is

full

B

to

is

3

natural waist length.

F

to

H

to

is

length of coat.

N

to

to I

to G.

to
to

U

Rule a

U to

8

Square
Square

K

23

to

Add
shown

breast measure.

to top of

in illustration

back

from

A

K
R

to R,

down to 16 as shown by
Sweep back from point 1, using
to

X

Rule
to

G

Y&

A

is

from

a line

X

to Z,

and

A

to

AA

1

X

to
to

O
is

is

AA

X

from

to

X.

3^ waist measure.

O

to

I.

line
is

to 18 is

to G.

is

^

in.

in illustra-

out.

from J to P and out.
same distance as from

R

to

minus

11

illustration

in

Y
X

and down.

2

to

from

Y

to 19

in.

X.

to P.
is

2

in.

width of lapel from 28 to 27,

12 to 33

1/6 breast measure.

Shape from

from 23

24 to 10

1/6 breast measure.

is

Y

Rule a

as a pivot.

to T.

L

P

is

line

9

in.

from 12

ii to 34
to

3>-^ in.

is

Y&

is

%

14 to 15

is

1/12 seat measure.

line.

in.

34 and down.

10 to 14

.

seat measure.

from 10 to 15 and down.
same distance as D to E plus J/2 in.
12 to 25 is same distance as 10 to 17 minus 1 in.
Add 34 in. to top of skirt at point 10 and shape
top of skirt as shown by illustration from 10 to 12.
Add y, in. at point 15 to back of skirt, and shape
as shown by solid lines from 10 to 17, and shape from
Take out a \' in front part as shown.
17 to 25.
Rule a

Apply strap measure plus ^-j in- from
Square out from X by balance line.

line

Shape from 27 to 18, 19 and down to 12.
Square down from 12 by fashionable waist

solid lines.

rule a line

to

Make

'"•

X'

1/6 breast measure, or same distance

is

Rule a
Yi in.

is

Shape shoulder from
Shape neckhole from

to 11, 11 to 23,

G

waist measure.

V^

Shape armhole as shown

and shape as

point

is

in.

;^ in.

is

divided into

is

to 13.

and down.

G
as

to 11

at point

23 to 8 and

1

W

in.

%

is

in-

Ys

>4 waist measure.

is

waist suppression, or same distance

from 21 to 9 and

X

from
to R.
Square down from U.
line from V to U.
is J^ breast measure.
down from 8.
back from point K, finding point Z.
3^

is

%

is

Rule a

C

4

waist suppression, or same distance

7 to 6

2.

to

T

to

Shape bottom of front part as shown

I.

tion

T is 1/6 breast measure.
R is ^ in.
Draw a line

to

M

in.

Shape as shown in illustration from 13 to 7 and
down to 10 and from S to 6 and 20; also from S to 5
and 21.
Shape bottom of sidebody from 10 to 20.

Square up from W.
Square up and down from G.
Square up from H.

A

2

waist suppression, which

%

is

13 to 23

,

Square down from

in.

4 to

as

breast measure.

is

is 2]/^

1/6 breast measure.

is

U.

6 to 5

W

N

U

8 to 7
as 2 to

S to G is 3y2 in.
Apply blade measure plus !]/> in. from B
is 1/6 breast measure.
G to

B

is

three equal parts, as Figures 4, 2 and 3 indicate.

Vs breast measure.
\y2 in. B to S is J/4 breast measure.

is

is

M

to

4 to

Square out from B, C, D and E.
Apply depth of scye from A to B.

B
F

22 to 9

L

in.
'1-

line

10 to 17

is

For Surtout
Note dash

frock, with the exception that width of lapel averages

lines at front of coat.

Level your square from 9 to 22 and rule up same

Lapels and front for surtout are produced

same manner

as

in.

wider.

The front of skirt is
manner as double-breasted

as in double-breasted frock.

actly the

Y2

in

ex-

those of double-breasted

also

produced

in the

same

frock.

Therefore, see diagram of same on another page
of this volume.

Single Breasted

Newmarket and Double Breasted Surtout

67

Inverness
MeeLSuremervts Used Are As Follows:
Waist length

18

in.

Waist

36

in.

To

24

in.

Seat

41

in.

34

in.

seat

Length

48

in.

Length of cape

Breast

40

in.

Breast, waist and seat exaggerated 4 sizes each.

To

Dracft
Square back from K, finding point Z.
Rule a line from X to Z.
X to Q is 1/6 breast measure.
L to is J 2 waist measure plus J4 in. for each
size the coat is exaggerated.
and
Shape as shown in illustration from Q to I,

Square out and down from A.
A to V If', breast measure.

A

V to B is
A to D

3 in.

is

length to seat.

A

is

length of coat.

E

to

C

to

waist length.

is

M

is >4
C to
Square out B, C, D and E.
and down.
Rule a line from V to
exaggerated breast measure.
B to F is

in.

M

down to bottom of coat.
Apply seat measure on

%

H

F
B

to

S

S

to

22

to

to 14

in.

J4 regular breast measure.

is

Zy2

is

G

22 to

V/i

is

is

in.

garment

for each size the

G
O

is

garment is exaggerated
4 sizes, consequently the distance from 22 to G is 1 in.
G to 21 is 1/6 regular breast measure.
exaggerated; in

W

21 to

garment

being Y^
exaggerated.

is

N

B

to

N

to I

this case the

is

in.,

J4

in.

Rule a

Add
from 6

K

to

line

from J

35.

to P.

shown

as

to 15

1

6,

5,

using point 2 as a pivot, and

using point

coat

is

as a pivot.

to front length at point 16

in.

2

in.

for button stand

and 16 to

and shape

from P

to 29,

I

to 13,

19.

Shape front as shown

20 and down.

X

to 19.

Add

W

from

line

is

to 12

in.

13/2

sweep forward from

in.

J4 breast measure.

is

and down.
Square back from
1/6 breast measure.

is

Sweep back from

%

14 to 20

in.

from 2

in illustration.

Square up from W.
Square up and down from G.
Square up from H.
A to T is 1/6 breast measure.
in.
to R.
Rule a line from
T to R is

2^

is

from 20

of divisions

Shape armhole, shoulder and neckhole

for each size the

exaggerated breast measure.

is

P

Rule a

3>4

is

line

to 35

to

%

to 10.

10 to 12

Rule a

in.

J4

U

and

and body of

in illustration

finished.

Cape
This cape

drafted over coat and

is

from draft on another paper.

is

traced off

To
X to Y is
Y to 17 is

same distance
1

as

point are in

Front and shoulder

R

of cape

same

place as those of coat.

Shoulder

shape of regular coat.

DraLft
Shape as shown

to K.

in illustration

Y

from

and

to 18

17 to 18.

in.

from 36 to V and out.
Apply measure for length of cape as taken over
shoulder from X to Y and 17 to 24.
Sweep forward from 24, using point X as a pivot.
Rule a

is

line

Add 1 in. to length of
From Y to 18 is 4 in.

Shape from 36

to 17.

From

is

^

plus

17 to 27

24 to 28

From

cape at 23.

27 to

from

K

to 2,

same distance

as

from

same distance

as

in.
is

7

in.

for vent in side.

2 to 25 and 2 to 26

is

28.

Collar
To
From.

X

P

to 33

is

same distance

as

from

A

to

R

Dra.ft

and

Shape from ZZ

to P.

33 to 32

33 to 34

is

Shape

shown

as

1^4

3 in.

to P.

P

to 31

is

3

in.

Shape as shown in illustration from 34
Shape from 32 to 31 and P to 31.
and 52.

in.

in illustration frf>m

is

34 to P.
68

to

Zi

Inverness

Full Evening Dress

Custom decrees
is

that

when formal evening

The garments should be

dress

required, the long-tailed coat which has earned the

name

though a

of evening coat should be worn.

It is

formal dress and for

The

allowable.

necessary that there should be uniformity in
this

slight tendency

reason well-dressed

seam.

men

The

of black

toward gray

material,

al-

sometimes

is

trousers are braided on the outside

waistcoat

white, of duck or

is

silk,

single

or double breasted, either plain or corded.

are a unit in deciding the use and the usage for eve-

With

the full dress coat a plain white shirt, with

ning dress.

two or three pearl

To
in

formal dress

is

and no gentleman

to

straight front or poke

make one unduly conspicuous,

likes to

broad ends

render himself an object of

The formal evening

coat

is

worn

after 6 o'clock

kid,

afternoon at any formal occasion, such as wed-

dings, receptions, balls, the opera and theater,

ever ladies are present.

by any excuse

;

is

worn.

The

collar

is

either

No

and

pumps

the

tie

a white lawn

for dancing

hat, silk or opera.

to slight variations

when-

;

bow

;

the gloves white

This fashion

from season

is

subject

to season, but in

general effect will doubtless be unchanged for

other costume can be held

years.

to be correct.

70

with

the shoes patent leather with button tops.

or patent leather

remark.

in the

studs,

deviate even slightly from established custom

its

many

Full Dress

VIEWS OF FULL EVENING DRESS AND EVENING
COAT WITHOUT STRAP AND LAPEL SEAMS

Full Dress Coat
Solid lines at front indicate regular dress coat.

Dash
coat

lines illustrate the
is

manner

which the dress

in

Waist

32

in.

Seat

37

in.

Height, 5

cut without strap or lapel seam, the following

Natural waist

17

in.

Fashionable

18^

in.

40

in.

waist

Full length of coat

Breast

36

in.

To

.

and 3
for

in.

12

U

Distance from 4 to

in.

9

11 in.

.\

.

in.

DraLft

3

is

.

Strap

V

divided

depth of

is

waist suppression, which

equal parts,

three

into

as

Figures

4,

2

indicate.

8 to 7

%

is

of waist suppression, or same dis-

tance as 2 to U.

A
A
A

to

C

to

D

to

E

natural waist length.

is

C

full

is

U

to

D

%

to

F

is

to

H

is

1%

to

S

is

^

and E.

U and

rule a line

from

N

to I

U to V.

to

in.

X

breast measure.

to G.

to
to

T is 1/6 breast
R is M in.

down

X

is

>4

X

A

to

AA is

to

Z and

is

K

From

to 11

Add
shown

14,

><

rule a line

from

in-

is

in.

from

AA

to

X.

line

is
is

1^
3/2

^

in.,

23 to 13

shown by

is

Y^

illustration

in.

from 13

and

to 7

to 10.
to

6 and 20, and shape from S to 5

21.

back at point

from

A

to R,

R

A

Rule a

line

9 to 23

is

from
iy2

to

to P.

level

P

X.

from 9

to

22 and draw a

by having square

level

with

G

to 27

and

out.

in.

and shape

23 to 18

is

2

to 11, 11 to

27 to 28

is

234

in.
in.

Shape outside of lapel from 28 to 18.
Take out a V in front part as shown

in.

waist measure.

Lay your square
up to 27.
Square out from

Y

X

balance line finding point 27.

8.

and down.

to M
M to 4

is

Shape shoulder from
Shape neckhole from

yi breast measure.

to top of

25,

to 13.

in.

in illustration

23, 23 to 8

L

to 23
is

I,

^

pivot.

J^ breast measure.

Square up and down from

K

to

%

to T.

to 8

Q

%

1/6 breast measure, or same distance

Apply strap measure, plus J4

U

from

1/6 breast measure.

is

as

illustration

Shape sidebody from 10 to 20, and shape bottom
from 21 to 9.
O to P is 1/6 breast measure plus
in.
Rule a line from
in. forward of J to P.
X to Y is same distance as R to 11, minus
in.
Shape armhole as shown in illustration from Y

to

G

1/6 breast measure.

of front part

in.

Rule a line from
G and down.

is

Shape from S
and

W

to

7.

waist measure.

34 in.

is

Q

Shape

measure.

Rule a line from
to R.
Square back from K, finding point Z.
Sweep back from point 1, using point G as a
1

to

22 to 9

;

T

25

24 to 10

2>4
Square down from I square up from W.
Square up and down from G and square up
from H.

A

^

is

Shape as shown by
22 and down.

in.

is

to

Square out from X.

breast measure.

is

distance

2.

L

breast measure.

W

N

to

% waist suppression, or same

is

Square down from

S to G is 33^2 in.
Apply blade measure plus I3/2 in. from B
is 1/6 breast measure.
G to

B

4 to

in.

5^

is

as

J4 waist measure.

is

6 to 5

length of coat.

Square down from

B
F
B

7 to 6

fashionable waist length.

is

Square out B, C,

as

Blade

is

Check same distance by measure

as

Direct measures applied
Depth of scye

%

scye.

X

Attitude, normal.

Square out and down from A.
A to V is breast measure.

B

in.

Weight, 135 pounds.

measures being used

to

8

ft.

tion.

in illustra-

Full Dress Coat
Front Without
Strap and Lapel

For

Seam
Note dash

on front part

line

coming down

reduce front at point

18, '4 in.,

This

same as two seams.

or

lower

the

leave

will

and

to point 23,

of

part

front in one piece.

Skirt
10 to 14

is

seat measure.

1/3

Square back from
14 to 15

Rule a

14.

1/12 seat measure.

is

from 10

line

to 15

and

down.

.

9 to 12

is i<

in.

2

in.

12 to 19

is

19 to 29

is

1/3

of the distance

of 9 to 24.

Add

J4 in. to top of skirt at

point 10, and shape top of skirt

shown by

as

from

illustration

:o to 12.

From

10 to 17

tance as

Add

D

to E, plus
in.

3/4

same

is

1/2

disin.

15 and

to point

shape back of skirt as shown

by

illustration.

17 to 26

Rule a

is

line

same distance
from 29

Shape front of
bottom as shown by

Shape top of
strap and lapel

out

to 26.

from 29

illustration

skirt

seam

as

for

and

\y2

in.

finish as

to

from 17

full

shown.

dress

end of

back from

and shape

to 26,

to 26.

coat

shown by dash

\' in front part at front

Add
tack,

skirt

as 19 to 29.

D

line.

without

Take

skirt.

to

E. for back

The Tuxedo or Dinner Coat

WITH SHAWL ROLL AND NOTCH COLLAR
The dinner

coat,

or Tuxedo, as

America, was designed

evening wear to be put on
dress coat

was taken

after dinner the

men

smoking or

the

retired.

rule,

in the

coat

in

for

evening when the

and

full

dress

universal,

is

of the party frequently resort to

room when the ladies have
was then donned, with the

billiard

The dinner

called

is

In England, where large

off.

house parties are the

it

a lounge

for

first

coat

trousers and waistcoat of the dress

clothes.

From

beginning the dinner coat grew to the dignity

this

of a distinct costume, to be

men

are present.

At

clubs,

worn

as dress

when only

men's dinners,

etc.,

it

is

correct.

be
at

Many men imagine that the Tuxedo costume may
worn interchangeably with the dress coat, and
the theater, formal dinners, balls,

dies are present

it is

frequently seen.

etc.,

where

la-

Nothing could be in worse taste, and nothing
shows more clearly how little a man knows about
correct dressing than such wear of a Tu.xedo.
In its proper place, among men, it is a sightly,
easy garment, which is very well liked by men who
like to be comfortable and at the same time well
dressed.
It

may

as the coat,

be

worn with

which

is

same material
Oxford gray,

a vest of the

usually black or

or with a fancy vest of steel gray.

The

shirt

is

white

and pleated, the collar a turn over or wing, and the
tie a black bow, or of a color to match the vest.
The coat may have either a shawl or notch collar, either being in good taste.

The Tu.xedo being a sack
worn with it a soft or derby
opera

hat.

coat,
hat,

requires to be

never a

silk

or

The Tuxedo or Dinner Coat

To
Draw up your
from

the roll or

Take out a
Point 3

is

Run same
This

is

crease lines from the bottom of

of

1J4

V

1^

in.

1

in.

below breast

done whether there

to 4

is

from 2

3 inches.

shawl collar

to

If

1.

line.

from 4 to
peak lapel

is

shown

in illustration.

a shawl collar or a peak

is

desired, shape as

shown

in illus-

5.
is

desired,

peak lapel according

to

style.

4 to 6

to point 3, as

lapel dinner jacket.

If

tration,

5 to 2.

V

Dracft

4 to

is

2y2

in.

Shape as shown by dash
6 and 6 to 5.
All

lines in illustration

other points are the same as

sack coat.

in

from

a regular

Cassock
Mea.sures as Follo\vs:
Natural waist

„,.,,.

17

in.

. r,

.

ly

i-ashionable waist

Breast

36

in.

Waist

32

in.

in.

-u ^o u ^^
j
with
32 buttons and

^
t-u
r
^
r *i
1 he front of this coat closes
•

i

Full length

58

'

button holes.

in.

To Draft
Square out and down from A.
i-g

A
A

to

D

is

to

E

is full

Rule a

23 to 13

S

1>4

S

is

J4 breast measure.

5

to

G

is

G

to

W

B

to

N

N

to I

3j^

and

O

.

breast measure.

is

2^4

in.

'

Square down from

^

W.

Square up from

T

to

5

T is 1/6 breast
R is 34 in.

Rule a

line

Sweep back from

hole

point

1,

using point

G

pivot.
is

J^

X

to

L

to

O

I/2

is

by balance

L

M

M

to
to

4 to

C

2

is

4

in illustration

from

O

to

I,

and

waist suppression, which

is

is

divided into

three equal parts, as Figures 4, 3 and 2 indicate.

C

is

7 to 6

6 to
as 4 to

K
K

M

is

is

%

34 waist measure.

is ifi

Y

waist suppression, or same distance

2.

to

to 23

is

1/6 breast measure.

to 11

is

14 in.

to

20 and

9.

from

J to P.

X

to Z.

same distance

is

X

from

as

R

to 11

in illustration

minus

from

Y

Y

X

to

and shape neck-

Rule a

line

from

A

to

28 and down.

line

from 35

to

D

and down.

line

D

to 17

is

E

as a pivot.

same distance

same distance

is

skirt as

as 28 to 16.

as 28 to 16

shown

minus

in illustration

1

in.

from

9.

to

I to

25

is

to

24

9 to 12

26

is

lj4

in.

is

l]^

in.

is

1>^

in.

Ij^

as

shown

in illustration

as per illustration

as

shown

from

in illustration

in.

Shape as shown in illustration from 26 to 25, 24
12 and down to bottom.
Put on standing collar of l.)4 in. width, as shown

in illustration.
76

to

to P.

Rule a

From P

1/6 breast measure.
waist suppression, the same distance as from 2 to C.
to 8

8 to 7

body from 27

Extend a plait of 2 in.
from D to 33 and 18 to 34.
Extend a plait of 2 in.
30 to 32 and 17 to 31.
Extend a plait of 2 in.
from 28 to 30 and 16 to 29.

in.

27.

5 to

to 5.

from

30 to

5^ waist measure.

is

line

to

from

Shape top of

1/6 breast measure.

is

Rule a

12 to 19

down.
22 to 9

line

From 30

line.

waist measure.

Shape as shown

and

1/6 breast measure.

is

to 18, using point

X

1/6 breast measure.

is

P

Rule a

in.

Square out from

to 7

from J to 30 and down,
Sweep forward from E to 16 and back from

as a
_

X

to

side

Shape shoulder from

W to R.

from

to

and 13

measure.

Square back from K, finding point Z.

1

from 13

6 and 20 and shape from

Shape armhole as shown

Square up from H.
to

in illustration

5 to

in.

Square up and down from G.

A

in.

21.

Rule a

X

I.

to

to 23.

shape bottom of front part from 21 to

in.

R

in.

Shape bottom of

'

1/6 bi-east measure.

is

is

in.

G

to R,

to 28.

in.

%

is

Shape from

M

His

1^/2

Shape as shown

%

to

^

is

is

30 to 27

length of coat.

Square out from B, C, D and E.
B to F is
breast measure.
to

to 5

from

line

down

A

from

in illustration

23 to 8 and

11, 11 to 23,

fashionable waist length.

F
B

shown

Sliape as

A to V is breast measure.
V to B is 3 in.
A to C is natural waist length.

The Cassock

Theories
The

practical cutter

recognize in this work

and the advanced student who have studied cutting as a science

many

of the ideas they

many new

time they will observe

and Practice
have proved

to be of

ideas introduced and expressed, which

ideas

it is

not

my

intention to criticise

have expressed

I

anybody

or his work, there

else,

At the same

practical value.

may

no doubt

be in direct opposition to

system makers and instructors of cutting.

their views, as well as in opposition to the opinions of other

While

good

will

will to a considerable extent revolutionize

some

been in use heretofore and have been accepted as correct, but which are

many

no doubt that

is

of the practices
in fact

of the

which have

nothing but fallacious

theories.

For instance,

it

has been a

common

practice to lay

up the normal points

of a coat

cutter
in this
tions,

the depth of scye

is

54 of an inch longer than normal, measures are applied direct without the

knowing the reason why the depth

is

The Second Section

greater.

volume, has been either ignored or else the cutter does not

and the consequence

is

more

of the following types

essential that this be thoroughly understood.

The same

applies to the strap measure, or

parison with the normal.

and

this reason can be

Measurements, as described

know anything about

scientific varia-

The reasons

found promptly

may

if it is

for the excess length could

Height, stooping, sloping, or long neck.

:

If it is not, see

this increase or decrease in length

stipulated

be remedied in a

when measurements

scientific

It

is

diagrams and instructions.

any other measure which may be long or short

There must be a reason for

Section of Measurement, and

of

that this measure has been applied before regulating the draft for the

type or form which causes this measure to be 3^ inch longer.
be traced to one or

to

For example:

apply direct measures without having arranged the points in position for measurement.

Where

and then

in

com-

from normal,

are taken, in the Second

way by adhering

to the illustrations

and

instructions of variations. First laying out the proportionate points, applying height and circumference,

and

next, variations, according to definition of types. It will be readily seen that the points

positions,

and by

and the draft

is

this operation the different points are placed in graphic

then in position for measurement that

is less

conflicting.

have changed

harmony with each
In fact,

if

other,

the types have

been correctly stipulated and measurements accurately taken, there should be no difference between
the measurements and variations.
retain the

symmetry and grace

to scientific variations

At the same time the garment

of the ideal model.

While

it

will

fitting points

and

has been for various reasons subjected

and methodical measurements, yet balance and

79

have the proper

fitting points

have been retained.

The shoulder

point has been a subject of

much

of

view the shoulder point has only a fixed relation

to

any

It

circle.

attempt to

fix

has nothing to do with what

is

discussion in the trade, but from a scientific point
to the

neck that a point

commonly

is

For instance, a stooping figure

wrong.

theories are put in practice.

there

is

to be a straight or crooked shoulder.

is

to

and

to

as a rule also round-backed,

The length

of the

is

fallacious, yet,

the back

is

straight

shoulders

out of the question.

The

influence.

only

are

location

of

An

(See diagram for stooping and erect).

To produce

of a

B demands

The

so-called

word "term"
shoulder point

is

is

something that has no independent
entirely

dependent on the increase

a well-balanced garment necessitates

all

fit,

or character of the

parts of the coat being in strict har-

each other, and this important feature can not possibly be secured by any process of meas-

mony with
uring that

to

Therefore, to alter the shoulder point without reference to

or decrease given to the length of the back to produce the intended effect,

garment.

A

independent shoulder point has no existence, and crooked and

terms.
the

even in

back determines whether

Raising or lowering of the back and increase or decrease of the distance from
raising or lowering of the shoulder point.

To

means without reference

reduce the length of front shoulder of a coat without reference to the back

some modern methods, such

circumference has

called straight or crooked shoulders.

the shoulder point by direct measurement, or by any other

the top of the back

in the

is

practicable for students to use, without the aid of proportions and variations.

garment depends entirely on the

to the type

and

figure,

and

in

making

taste
it

and individual

skill of

The

the cutter in adapting the garment

the proper size so as to dress the customer correctly.

80

style

VEST SECTION
The Supreme Vest System
with Instructions How to
Measure and Apply Measurements

Vests;

to

Proportion Tables*

81

also

Proportiona.te Front Length for Vests
Breast.
32
33

34
35
36
37
38
39
40

5-4

5-5

5-6

5-7

5-8

5-9

5-10

5-11

6

23
231
23*

23i
23*

23f
24

26f
27

23i
24
24i
24*
24f
25
25i
25*
25f
26
26i
26*
26f
27
27i

234
23f
24
24i
24^
24}
25
25i
25*
25f
26
26i
26*
26f
27
27i
274

24i
24*
24}
25
251
25*
25}
26
26}
26*
26}
27
27}
27*
27}

24
24}
24*
24}
25
25}
254
25}
26
26}
26*
26}
27
27}
27*
27}
28

24}
24*
24}
25
25}
25*
25}
26
26}
26i
26}
27
27}
27*
27}
28
28}

244
24}
25
25}
25*
25}
26
26}
26*
26}
27
27}
27*
27}
28
28}
284

24}
25
25}
25*
25}
26
26}
26*
26}
27
27}
27*
27}
28
28}
28*
28}

25
25}
25*
25}
26
26}
26*
26}
27
27
27*
27}
28
28}
284
28}
29

16

16}

16*

16}

17

'i

17*

17}

18

23f
24
24i
24A
24J
25

41

25i
25i
25|
26
261
264

42
43
44
45
46
47
48
Proportionate
of Vests

from Height and Circumference

Waist Length

82

ft.

Vests
"^'^
>»(•.

^
1

MODELS OF THE DIFFERENT FANCY AND REGULAR VESTS COMMONLY WORN

83

How

to

Measure

Vests
After having ascertained the style desired and arranged the vest so that

it

is

smooth front and

back, proceed to take measurements over vest as follows:

1.

Measure as shown

in

illustration for actual

opening desired from

A

on back view to

E

on

back view to

F

on

front view.

2.

Measure as shown

in illustration

for full length

vest

of

from

A

on

front view.

3.

Measure as shown

4.

Measure

in illustration to side

from

all

around breast as shown

in front

all

around waist as shown

in front

A

view

on back view to

G

on front view.

Measurements taken should

illustration.

be medium snug.
5.

be

Measure

medium

illustration.

Measurements taken should

snug.

Height and weight of customer are essential
of breast

view of

in order to

prove up breast measure with the table

measures compounded from heights and weights, and also so as

to designate the proportionate

length of depth of scye and waist.

Measurements

for vest

when

entered in order book should stand as follows:

Opening

Breast

Full length

Waist

Length

to side

For the
urements.

different attitudes

and deformations, see Definition

For short or direct measures, such as depth

and front measure, see Third Section

of

Types or Second Section

of

Meas-

of scye, waist length, blade, strap, over shoulder

Measurements.

84

of

How

to

Measure

Vests

fprn'/y

W^^'-

85

Proportionate Vest
Mea.sures
1"

in.

Opening

1 1

in.

Front length

25

in.

Waist length

To

a-s

Follows:
Length

22

in.

Breast

36

in.

Waist

32

in.

Draft

Square out and down from A.

A
V
A

to

V

is

I3 breast measure.

to

B

is

3

to

C

is

waist length.

Apply measure for opening plus

T

to

F

is 1/3

to

H

is

to

S

is

S

to

G

is

G

to

W

B

to

N

N

to I

B and

A

T

to

and

X

to 6.

L

to 3

J4 breast measure.

G

to

3 in.

M to 5

lyi

2

Square down from

to

Rule a

from

line

W

to

M

is

1

from

to 7

in illustration

from Z

to

M

X

and

Sweep back from

point

2,

using point

G

to 13
as

and

8 to

as a

from P

to 3

and

6.

to J.

A

to

R

and

line

R
as

to E.

R

shown

as

and Yi

in.

in

E

to

minus J4

illustration

in

>"•

^

is

%

Y

to

X.

in.

shown by

solid lines

from 13

to 8,

from

to J.

Place vest pockets as shown, lower pocket 4

2 to

X

is

Rule a
2 to

O

to

J4

line
is
is

from bottom, and make lower pocket

in.

from

X

Make

to Z.

1/6 breast measure.

Q

to

I,

breast pocket 4

Extend button-stand

5^ waist measure.

Shape from

in.

front of balance line

to E.

Shape

pivot.

T

7.

and shape from 6

Shape shoulder from

down.

L

Y

4 and

same distance

is

below breast

to

34 in.

is

Y

A

from

in.

Shape armhole

to R.

in.

Shape as shown

to

in illustration

to

V/i

is

Shape from

X

Square back from K, finding point Z.

C

E

in.

1

in.

Shape from 10

Square up from H.

T

to 10

to

from

in.

J4 waist measure.

is

shown

K

to

1/12 breast measure.

as

J\I

A

in.

1

is

Shape

I.

measure.

to side plus

1

W.

T is 1/6 breast
R is % in.

for full length plus 1^4

is

Square up and down from G.

to

is

P

Shape from P

in.

from

in.

to J.

4

5 to

breast measure.

is
is

in.

1/6 breast measure.

is

X

and

Apply measure

C.

breast measure.

1

to 8.

Apply measure

Square up from

A

X

and

in.

Square out from

B
F
B

to side

in. in

as

in.

4j/2 in. in length.

length.

shown by dotted

line, to

be used only on right side of vest, and single-breasted

and down.

vest

is

completed.

Double Breasted
For double-breasted vest see dash

Make
Make

line

on

distance from solid line to point
distance from J to 12, 2}i

Shape as shown

front.
11,

4

to 12

in.

in.
86

and J

to 12,

in illustration

from 8

and double-breasted vest

to 11, 11
is

finished.

Proportionate Single

and

87

Trouble Breasted Vest

Vest for Stout Figure
Mea-sures
Waist length
Opening

.

i/
... 17

inin.

Length

23^

in.

12

in.

Breast

48

in.

29^

in.

Waist

50

in.

Full length

To

B and

Square out

F

to

H

to

S

S

to

G

G

to

W

is

B

to

N

is

N

to

I is

is

iy2

is

^

is

and 48.

T

to

R

breast measure.

to 17

K

to

E

in.

11 to 10 in

G

as

a

is J/2

from

line

is

12

is

X

is

^ waist measure.
^ for each inch
in.

Shape from 10

A

to

R

and

I to

waist meas-

from

to 12

is

%

lines

from

Shape armhole

much

11

is J/^ in.

Q

to

I

and down

shown by

and shape

as

to J.

illustration

from

E

Shape from 18

as

is

point

necessary to get
J/^

in.

for each

10

9,

J/g

in.,

Add

in.

much

as

to

make opening between

for each inch waist measure

is

^2

3

over nor-

instance waist measure exceeds normal

therefore the distance from 3 to 9
in.

is

%

in.

for seams at 6.

Shape from 6

to J.

Extend button stand of

is

M

as

in this

;

by 6

for every inch waist meas-

In this case waist measure

to J.

Place pocket and cut same open and lay a plait at

and

over normal, consequently the distance from
in.

to 12

X

Shape front of armhole as shown by solid lines
Y to 16 and taking out as much
more in armhole as distance from P to 16.

inch waist measure exceeds breast.

M to

as

at point

of illustration from

and
mal

a good shaped front, or an average of

ure exceeds normal.

to 7.

Shape front from 8

in-

12.

15 as

7.

Extend
in. to front
shown by illustration.

1/6 breast measure.

Square down from

J4

from

to P.

to Z.

Shape as shown by dotted

Add from

P to 4 and
1% in.

^

in.

12.

is

illustration

to 18.

Shape from

ure exceeds breast measure, in this case being 48

to 11

in.

down

I.

breast and 50 waist, the distance

in.

%

^

From L to
From to

6

is

is

in.

^

From

is 1 in.

1/6 breast measure.

2

2 to 13

Q

12.

T

13 to X is J^ in. for each inch waist measure exceeds breast measure, in this case being 48
in.
breast and 50 waist, the distance from 13 to X is

2 to

and

to E.

pivot.

Rule a

to 11

is

in.

1/6 breast measure.
breast measure.

Rule a line from R to W.
Square back from K, finding point Z.
Sweep back from point 2, using point

From
From

V

from

Apply measure for opening plus 1 in. from A to
and X to 8.
Apply measure for full length plus 1J4 in. from
A to T and X to J.
Apply measure for side length plus 1 in. from A
to T and X to 18.
X to Y is same distance as R to E minus 54 inP to 16 is same distance as 1 to 15.
Shape as shown by illustration from 16 to 17 and

3

is

T
R

L

Shape as shown by

in.

Square up from W.
Square up and down from G.
Square up from H.
to

illustration

From 11 to 5 is J^ waist measure.
From 5 to 14 is 1 in.
From 14 to 4 is same distance as to
G to P is 1/12 breast measure.

C.

Square down from

A

Dracft

% breast measure.

to

B
F
B

to side

Shape as shown by
down.

Square out and down from A.
A to 42 is Ys of 42 on divisions.
A to 48 is 1/3 of breast measure.

V is half way between 42
V to B is 3 in.
A to C is waist length.

bls Follou's:

}i in. as

shown by dotted

line

of front according to illustration to right side

and

finish as represented.

Vest for Stout Figure

S9

Breasted Vest With Separate Lapel. Also Full
Bress Vest With Small Waisted Effect

Trouble

Measures

a^s ^ollo^vs:

Waist leneth

17

in.

Length

Opening

10>4

in.

Full length.

All systematical points are oJDtained in

regular draft, hut

ner as in

measures

call

making

36,

for 30 waist,

waist

the

will

it

l>e

22

in.

Breast

36

in.

Waist

30

in.

To

Draft

same man-

row

noticed

while the hreast

the

to side

at

the waist and

M

h""rom

measure 2

smaller

in.

width over the

chest.

still

is

retaining the

than

to 15

is

J/^

for each inch the waist

in.

is

smaller than normal.

normal.
In applying waist measure from

L we

A V

taken out

is

in the

back so as to reduce the

find point

width

at waist,

having the same

efiiect

as that of the

but the front must have the normal shape as point

9,

indicates,
in

and

a

V

front part, which,

front part.
is

taken out

in the side, as

when seamed

the distance from 9 to 0,

making

shown
In other details the opening remains the same as

up, will eliminate

in resrulation draft.

the front part nar-

Double Breasted Vest With Separate Lapel
Lay square

level

from point

Make width

and square up,

J to

From

finding point 15.

Square forward and back from 15 through
15 to 14

is

same distance

as

from 8

Shape

8.

to 15.

0,

of lapel 4

J to 12
as

is

shown

2

in. at

point 11.

in.

in illustration

14 to 11, 11 to 12 and

J

from 8

to 0, 14 to

to 12.

Full Dress Vest
For

full

Be sure

dress vest use dash lines in front part of

Measure

full

the points are thoroughly understood,

as while system remains the

vest.

in.

all

for whatever opening

is

desired plus

from 2 down and shape as shown by dash
dress vest

is

line

to

1

same

for

all vests,

subject

variations which will be given hereafter, various

fronts are only additions and deductions according to

and

the |iurposc for which the vest

completed.

90

may

be designed.

Double Breasted Vest With Separate Lapel.
Vest With Small Waisted Effect

Full Dress

Variations
7^>>

^foy^tnp'

Diagram

F.

Illustrates variations for

illustrate stooping,

and dotted

stoopingand

H

Qi-ecl

show normal.
way between
and B.

Solid lines

erect.

Point

lines illustrate erect.

/

is

half

W

Dash

lines

Stooping
Stipulate variations of }i

B

in.,

>4 in or

%

in.

from

Square out from 10 by dash

line finding point P.

to 8.

Draw
by dash

a line from 8 through

H

and out

as

18

shown

is

found by sweeping back from

P

as in regu-

lar draft.
line.

Square up by same
8 to 10

is 1/3

line

from H,

G

and

breast measure, plus 3

W and

Shape back, armhole, shoulder and opening as
line and stooping is finished.

8.

shown by dash

in.

Erect
Stipulate degrees of variation of

or

%

from B to 9.
Draw a line from 9 through

in.,

1,4

Square out from point

yi in.

in.

by dotted

point

H

and out

as

shown

9 to 11

is i/j

line

from

\V, G,

H

and

breast measure, plus 3

by dotted

line,

finding

19 is found in regular manner by sweeping back
from M.
Shape back, armhole, shoulders and opening as
shown by dotted line, and erect is finished.

line.

Square up by dotted

11

M.

9.

in.
92

Variations

DIACC.

Diagram

G.

Illustrates large

Solid lines illustrate normal

;

and small blades.

dash lines

show

large

Stipulate degree of variation of J4
in.,

G

in.,

/^ in.

or

is

for large blade

and

G

to 8

is

for small

scye

is

moved.

H

by dash

H

to 5

to 6
is

is

same distance

same distance

arnihole,

as

G

as
to

G

to

8,

and

7.

shoulder and opening as shown

line for large blade.

Shape armhole, shoulder and opening as shown

blade.
It will

from

Shape

varying from point G.
to 7

in either direction as the front of

For example

From

blade, and dotted lines illustrate small blade.

^

moves

be clearly seen that the width of the back

bv dotted

line for small blade.

Variations

Diagram H.

Illustrates

Solid lines illustrate normal
ing,

and dotted

;

and square.

sloping

dash

lines

show

slop-

lines illustrate square.

For Squatre Shoulder
Stipulate variation from point

or

%

from B to 8.
Square out from 8.
From E to D is same distance

B

of J4

as

B

iri-,

J^

Y to 11 is same distance as E to D.
Shape as shown by dotted line for square shoul-

in-

in.

der.
to 8.

For Sloping
Stipulate degree of variation by

%

^

in,,

from point B to 9.
Square out from 9 as shown by dash
E to L is same distance as B to 9.

lA in. or

same distance as E to L.
and X remain same as normal vest.
Shape shoulder and armhole as shown by dash

Y

to 10

Points

in.

line.

is

R

line for sloping shoulder.

Variations

j^ng /

Diagram

long and short neck.

Illustrates

J.

Dash

Solid lines illustrate normal.

neck, dotted lines

Rule a

line

show long

from

H

to

X

Bit Of/ i^fifl

lines

show

short

neck.

and

out.

For Short Neck

For Long Neck

Stipulate degree of variation of J4
Stipulate degree of variation of '4
}i

in.

for long neck

Square out from

and shoulder

as

from
5,

A

to 5,

and

in.,

X

J/^

m. or

lines for

/^

i'l-

or

from A to 6 and X to L.
Square out from 6 and shape top of back, front
and shoulder as shown by dash line for short neck.
Be sure to study incline and definition of types
in connection with these diagrams of variations.
34 in.

to D.

and shape top of back, front

shown by dotted

i"-,

long neck.

93

J^otch Collar Vest for Corpulent Figure
Meatsures

a.s

Follows

Waist length
Opening

13

in.

Direct measures applied
Depth of scye

lOYs

in.

Full length

28

in.

Strap

13J/2

in.

To

23

in.

Blade

12>^

in.

Breast

42

in.

Over shoulder

19

in.

Waist

42

in.

17 in.

side

To

Attitude, normal.

Dra.ft

M

Square out and down from A.
to V is y^ breast measure.

A
V
A

B
C

to
to

3

is

in.

5 to

L
G

Square out B and C.
is

%

is

\y2

B
F

to

F

to

H

B

to

S

is

S

to

G

is

G

to

W

B

to

N

N

to I

in.

2

to

R

in.

^

is

W

Rule a

line

G to AA
as

A

X

2 to

is

from

3^

X

K to E
X to Y
Shape

G

Apply strap measure plus

X

^

in.

from

2 to

O

L
C

M

to

from B

is
is
is

AA

to

and

G

1

in.

as

1

A

to

is

as

1

in.

IJ/2

in.

from

A

from
to

T

X and shape opening
and shape front from 8 to

lJ-2

V

^

12.
7.

to 11

and 10

to 12.

in.

same distance as R to E minus 34 in.
shown in illustration from A to R and

R

P and Y
in

to P.

illustration

from

Y

X.

make

plait in front of pattern

and make opening between 3

and 9 oi ]4, iu- for each size vest is larger over waist
than normal in this case it would be 3/2 in., and add
1/2 in. for seams at 6.
Shape from 6 to J.
Extend button stand of 9-4 inch to right side and

shown

;

to 14.

1/6 breast measure.
J/2

from

in.

Place pocket and

X.

to Z.

to 13

in.

to front at point

is

is

length plus

side plus

solid lines,

as illustrated in draft

over-shoulder measure plus

in illustration

to

from

line

in.

full

Shape armhole from E to
Shape shoulder as shown

and down.
to

Rule a

1

to E.

to T.

Appl}!-

%

shown by

Shape from

in.

to

in.

1

is

11 to 10

1/6 breast measure, or same distance

is

for each size waist

waist measure.

and down.
Shape from P to J and
Shape from P to 4 and

line from
to R.
Square back from K, finding point Z.
Apply depth of scye from B to A.
Apply blade measure plus 1 in. from B to G.
Sweep back from 2, using point G as a pivot.

From

in.

]4,

in.

1

is

P

to

Add
as

inch.

Rule a

to J

^

is

is

and X to 8.
Apply measure for
A to T and X to J.
Apply measure to
and X to 12.

Square up from W.
Square up and down from G.
Square up from H.
A to T is 1/6 breast measure.

T

or

in.,

T

1/6 breast measure.
breast measure.

is
is

J/2

1/12 breast measure.
Apply measure ftjr opening plus

breast measure.

J^ breast measure.
3 in.

is

4

is

over proportion.

is

11 to 5

,

waist length.

is

to 11

measure

waist measure.
in.

finish.

96

N.otch Collar Vest for Corpulent Figure

Clerical Vest

MeaLSures

a.s

Follows:

Waist length

17

in.

Breast

38

in.

Full length.

25i^

in.

Waist

34

in.

Side length

22

in.

To
All systematical points are obtained in the

manner

same

which

O

to 8

is

1/6 breast measure.

Shape as indicated from
Rule a

line

from where

at side as indicated

will serve as

button stand.

Shape another part as indicated by dash

as for regular draft.

From

bottom

Dra.ft

X

side

is

by dotted

to be put in.

Place one button hole at point

to 8.

collar

where button holes are

attached

down

posite

to

Y

and put six button holes

Draw up

line.

This will give you a separate part for right side

as
98

shown.

line for

X

and one op-

at side.

collar as indicated in

diagram and

finish

TROUSERS SECTION
The Supreme System

for

Trousers with Instructions

How

to Measure,

How

to

Apply Measurements and
Proportion Tables.
LOFa

ProportioncLte InseaLin of Trousers

To be Used
Breast

in Connection

with the Table of Sizes for Coats.

101

How

Measure

to

Trousers
At the

start,

request the customer to adjust his trousers so that they will

fit

up

in the crotch to

Next, have him stand erect so that the body rests well on the legs with the feet

the extent desired.

about 8 inches apart, so as to give free play for measurements.
1.

Measure outside seam from point

2.

Measure

for inside

A

at the waist to point

seam from point C close up

B

at the

in crotch to point

See illustration.

bottom.

F

to the heel of the shoe.

See illustration.
3.

Measure waist

4.

Measure seat

all

all

around the body over the waist band, drawing tape moderately

around the body

Request the customer

to stand

5.

Measure

6.

Measure

Measures

all
all

easy.

way between

For corpulent or stout

figures,

the
is

for trousers

when

This

measurements may be

in a great

measure.

entered in the order book should stand as follows:
Seat

Knee

seam

Bottom

Having completed measurements, take a
place his heels together.

two

careful examination of the customer,

Place your hand between his legs at knee.

fingers' breadth,

he

is

slightly bow-leg.

If

there

is

and request him
a distance

to

between

Breadth of three fingers would indicate that

he was bow-leg in medium degree, and the breadth of the hand would indicate bow-leg

in the

extreme

Notice whether he bends over or whether he requires a long front to trousers, or whether he

has a large or
or keeps

taken.

of trousers at point F.

Waist

degree.

seat.

in illustration.

Outside seam

the legs of

measurement

knee and bottom are subject to style and individual taste

for

The regular measures

Inside

this

of

waist and seat.

around knee, as shown

around bottom

D, the most prominent part

with his heels together while

measurement should be taken moderately
taken over the abdomen half

at point

tight.

them

book so that

flat

seat

;

notice whether he has large or small hip, and whether he spreads his feet out

close together

when

in drafting a pattern

measurements are concerned,

it is

Note

in a natural position.

you can use variations
possible to take

them

to

all

these deformations in the measuring

overcome these

difficulties.

As

far

as

correctly relative to length and circumference,

but unless the various attitudes and deformations have been stipulated at the time measurements were
taken, thus enabling you to use variations in drafting, the result will be unsatisfactory.

How

to

Measure Trousers

103

Proportionate Trousers
Follows:

Mea.surements

a-s

41>4

in.

Seat

Inside length

32

in.

Knee

Waist

32

in.

Bottom

length

Outside

.

.-.

.

.

.

.

2)7

in.

18

in.

16

in.

To Draft— Front Part
^ waist measure.
M to O ^ knee measure.
M to V ^ knee measure.
to R
^ bottom measure.

Square out and down from A.

A

to

B

B

to

C

is

J4

to

E

D
D

way between B and
2

is

and B.

to

F

is

J4 seat measure.

F

to

6

is

3^

G

to

H

to

%

I is

Rule a

G

and C.

K

J to

from

H

to

from

Rule a

line

from

to

T

K
O

to

F and from

to

R

and from

K to 6.
V to P.
L

from

in illustration

to C,

V

1/6 seat measure.

K

Shape from

T

to

G

and from

Shape from

G

to

O

and from S

shape as shown

I.

J4 waist measure.

is

line

Reduce length of front

seat measure.

line

bottom measure.

J4

Rule a

F

Square up from H.

B

is

and down.

in.

way between

54

is

34

is

P

Shape as shown

in.

j^ seat measure.

is

is

I to

C

S

I

C.

in.

E

is

is

inside length.

is

L

is

outside length.

is

Square out C,

6 to S

J to

to S.
to

O.

inch at point

1

from P

in illustration

to

R.

I

and

Front

part finished.

Bacck PaLrt
Cut out front

part.

C

Place on another paper and

draft back part as follows

Rule a

line across

from

V

to

U

and from

P

to

N.

Sweep forward from

S, using point

O

as a pivot.

Sweep forward from

L, using point

F

as a pivot.

Sweep backward from

L, using point

V

C.

using point

V

as

a

is

to 5
to 3
to

1

S to

O

to

R

to

W
U
N

1/ seat

is

Vy

is

a

1/12 seat measure.

is

1

in.

is

1

in.

down

to VV,

same

rest

Finished.

X.
104

measure plus

1

from

Shape from

and 9

to 4.

1

1

in.

for seams.

in.

in.

Y
Y

and 2

of the difiference

seams.

in illustration

from

X

to

W

to

U

and down

to

5,

Z,

V, and down to P.

in

illustration

Shape as shown

on point C, and square up from

T

measure plus

V between
Y minus two

Shape from

to

in.

Shape as shown
is

Place corner of square at point T, letting long
of

measure from 8

34 waist

is

Y

in.

1^

between 3 and

pivot.

to

4

Take out

Sweep backward from

T

\y2

is

seat

3 to

pivot.

arm

Z

Apply

X
X

as a

to

to

1

and 2

to

X.

to

T

and

N.

from P

to

N.

Proportionate Trousers

105

Peg Top Trousers

Mea-sures Used

a.s

Follows:

seam

Outside

41 J/^

in.

32

in.

Waist

i^

in.

Seat

38

in.

Bottom

16

in.

4

in.

tiie

same

seam

Inside

Excess of

size

over hip

To Draft
All systematical points are obtained in

manner

proportionate trousers with the excep-

as in

tion that the knee
is

measure

is

ignored.

J4 ii- for each inch of exaggeration

in this case

Shape

down

tration

as

shown

is

IJ^

bj'

solid line

Z

from

L

to 5

and

in.

from

Y

to

Z and down

shown by

solid line

from S

Straighten line at point

shown by

solid lines

solid line in illus-

to P.

on front part and shape

Straighten lines at point

to R.

U

from

on back part and shape

W

All other points remain the
draft and can be subjected to

to

N.

same

as for regular

same variations

trated and stipulated elsewhere.

106

to 5

in.

1

Shape back part as shown by

as

from C

size

to P.

5 to

as

Excess of

as illus-

Dress Trousers
Produced from the following measures:
.40

in.

Seat

36

in.

Inside

seam ....31

in.

18

in.

Waist

31

in.

Knee
Bottom

Outside scam

.

.

15>4 in

To Draft— Front Part
Square out and down from A.

A

to

B

to

B
C

is

5^

D
D

outside length.
inside length.

way between B and

E

to

is
is

2

is

Square out C,

C

to

F

to 6

F

6 to S

S

is

is

G

to

H

is

is

E

and B.

J/2

seat measure.

3^

in.

^ seat
^

measure.

in.

way between G and

y2

is

C.

in.

C.

Square up from H.
B to I is l^ seat measure.
Rule a line from H to I and square up from H.
J to

M

to

R

to

I

K and J to L are each % waist measure.
O and M to V are each % knee measure.
and

P

to

I

Shape as

and down to P.
Shape as shown

down

b_y

dash

bottom measure.

L

from

line

from S

line

to C,

to

V

O

and

G

and

R.

to

Rule a

F

%

are each

shown by dash

to

K

from

line

T

to

F and from

K

to 6.

1/6 seat measure.

is

Shape as shown
from G to O and K

T

from

in illustration

to

to S.

BaLck PaLrt
Cut out front part, place same on another paper
and draft back part as follows
Line across from

P

to

Sweep forward from

N

and

V

to

U.

point S, using point

O

as

point L, using point

F

as

a pivot.

Sweep forward from
a pivot.

Sweep back from L, using
Sweep back from C, using
S to

W

is

O

U

is

to

R

to

N

C

to

Z

point
point

of

is

1

in.

1

in.

lYz

is

same

as a pivot.

T

and

as a pivot.

1/12 seat measure.

in.

Place corner of square at point

arm

V
V

rest

let

long

on point C, and square up, finding

point X.

X

to 3

3 to

Y

Shape

W

to U and N.
and P, from Y to X, from X to T and W, and from
shown.
finish
as
Shape bottom as shown in illustration and

is

is

as

J^ waist measure.
1

in.

shown

in illustration

from

Y

to Z,

V

Trousers for Corpulent Figure
Measurements as Follows:
Outside seam

43

in.

31

in.

Seat

44

in.

Waist

45

in.

seam

Inside

To

Abdomen

47

in.

Knee

21

in.

Bottom

17

in.

Draft

H

from

Square out and down from A.

Rule a

A

outside length.

Square up from F, finding point

inside length.

J to

B

to

B
C

is

^

to

E

to

D
D

is
is

way between B and
2

is

to

F

to 6

is

S

to

H

G

E

F

and B.

in.

is

^

to

I

%

is

K

to

F

K

and

from

as

K.

11 to

to 6.

shown

from

in illustration

O

to

S and

and G.

O and M to V are each y^ knee measure.
to R and I to P are each J4 bottom measure.
Shape from L to C, V and down to P.
Shape from S to O and down to R.

in.

C.

Square up from H.

B

11.

are each ^4 waist measure.

to

I

way between G and

is 3/2

Q

M

I.

1/6 seat measure.

is

as

to

same distance

is

from

line

T

to

L

to

Q

to

T

to

Shape
from

J^ seat measure.

is

and J

Rule a

J4 seat measure.

is 5/2

6 to S

K

From K

C.

in.

Square out C,

C
F

line

G

Shape from

seat measure.

O.

to

Back Part
Cut out front part and lay on another paper and

10 to 5

P

to

N

and

V

to

S, using point

Sweep forward from

L, using point

Sweep back from L, using point

V

From

U.

Sweep forward from

Sweep back from

O

as a pivot.

F

as a pivot.

O
R

as a pivot.

point C, using point

V

Y

W

C

Z

to

of

U

to

N

5, 7,

is
is

as
Z,

1/12 seat measure.

is

is

same

rest

on C, and square up from T, finding

1

O

and

X

in.

shown by

solid line in illustration

and down

X

and from

X

to 2,

Shape from

W

to

U

and down

to

N.

Shape from

P

to

N.

If

from

to P.

to

to

to 3.

in.

1

V

to

Y

down

lj4 in.

is

L

in.

1

Shape from

Place corner of square at point T, letting long

arm

to

Y

3 to

to

Shape

as a

pivot.

S to

in.

1

Apply waist measure from

draft back part as follows

Line across from

is

1,

T

and

W.

an easier pair of trousers be desired, sweep

point X.

Apply

seat

4 to 7

is

measure from 15

1^

to

T and

1

back part backward as shown by dash

to 4.

%

in.

Apply measure

for

abdomen from 9

to

8

in.

at

X, adding same amount

same amount

and

lines,

2 to 10.

108

and

at point 12,

finish.

at

lines,

14,

also

take off

adding

and shape as shown by dash

Trousers for Corpulent Figure

Variations
The upper part of this diagram ilhistrates the
manner of handhng regular drafted pattern for long
and short

Solid lines illustrate normal, dash and

front.

dot lines illustrate long front, and dotted lines illustrate
short front.

Long Front
Square back from point T, obtaining normal line.
Stipulate degree of variation by ^4 '". Vz in- or

%

from T to 9.
Rule a line from 9 to 25.
Square up from 22, finding point 5.
Square back and forth from 5 through L.
From 5 to 2 and 5 to 4 are each >4 waist measure.
Rule a line from 2 to 9.
Shape as shown in illustration from 2 to 9 and

in.

down.
Shape from 4 to 25.
Shape from 4 to 2.

Short Front
Stipulate degree of variation by J4

%

in.

from

Rule a

T

i"-,

V^ in. or

to 8.

from 8

line

to 25.

Square up from 24, finding point 7.
Square back and forth from 7 through L.
Apply yi waist measure from 7 to 1 and 7

to 3

each.

25,

Rule a line from 1 to 8.
Shape as shown by dotted
and 3 to 1.

lines

from

1

to 8, 3 to

Open and Closed Trousers
Lower

part of this diagram illustrates

trousers for open and closed

how

to vary

also called large

;

and

small hip.

Line drawn from
line illustrates closed

H

normal dotted

to I represents

;

and dash and dot

line illustrates

open trousers.

Closed Trousers
For closed trousers
by Yi in., 1
Rule a

From

in.

or 1>4

from H
to 11 and

line

N

in.

stipulate degree of variation

from

I

to

N.

to

N.

N

to 12 are

each ]i bottom

measure.

20 to 15 and 20 to 19 are each V4 knee measure.
Shape as shown b\' dotted lines of illustration
from S to 15 and 11.
Shape from C to 19 and 12.

Open
Stipulate degree of variation
lJ/2 in.

from

I to

O

to 13

and

In-

O.
Rule as shown by dash and dot

O

]A

1

in.

or

H-Q.

line

to 14 are each y^ of

in..

bottom meas-

ure.

21 to 16 and 21 to 18 are each

J/4

knee measure.

Shape as shown by dash and dot
18 and 14.
Shape from S to 16 and 13.

line

from C

to

Variations
Upper part
which

of this

diagram

illustrates

manner

Solid lines

and large seat is obtained.
normal; dash and dot

flat

back part

illustrate

trate large,

and dotted

in

on

lines illus-

lines illustrate flat seat.

Large Seat
Stipulate degree of variation by >4

^

T

from

in.

in.,

in.

]/>

or

to 18.

Place corner of square at 18, letting long arm of
same rest on C, and square up as shown Ijy dash and
dot

line.

4 is same distance as T to 18.
Measure up trousers in regular way, thereby

X

to

ing point

W

find-

7.

from T to 18.
Shape as shown in illustration from 7 to 4, 4 to
18, and 18 to 8.
Shape from 8 to U.
Shape as shown by dash and dot line from 7
down.
to 8 is half the distance

Flat Seat
Stipulate degree of variation by
i/^

in.

from

T

>-4

in.,

^

in.

or

to 19.

Place corner of square at 19, letting long arm of

same rest on C.
Square up from 19.
X to 3 is same distance

W

to

9

is

T

as

half the distance

to 19.

from

T

to 19.

Measure for waist in regular way and shape
shown by dotted line in illustration from 10 to 3, 3
19 and 19 to 9.
Shape from 9 to U and Y down.

Bow Leg

as
to

Knock Knee

a-nd

part of this diagram illustrates the manner of varying for bow leg and knock knee.
Line H-I illustrates normal dotted line illustrates

Lower

;

bow

leg,

and dash and dot

line

knock knee.

Bow Leg
Stipulate degree of variation by >4

1>4

in.

1

m. or

from I to N for bow leg.
to N.
Rule as shown by dotted line from
N to 11 and N to 12 are each Y^ bottom measure.
to 11.
Rule as shown by dotted line from

in.

Rule from

M

V to 12 for bow leg.
Knock Knee

Stipulate degree of variation by >2

in.

1

m. or

from I to O.
to Q.
Rule as shown by dash and dot line from
Q to 13 and O to 14 are each Y^ bottom measure.
to
Rule as shown by dash and dot line from
13 and V to 14 for knock knee.

1>4

in,

M

Combinations of Variations
Mea.sures Used:
Outside seam

seam

Inside

42

in.

Knee

32^4

in.

Bottom

Waist

33

in.

gg^,.

39

in,

—

Definition of Typt-s

19

in.

16

m.

Small hip, knock knee, short

front and large seat.

To Draft
Square out and down from A.

Square back from T, finding

A

to

T

B

to

D
D

B
C

outside length.

is

way between C and

half

is

E

to

2

is

F

to

to 6

E

6 to S

H

%

is

B

to

in.

%

I is

to 16

G

and C.

Rule a

16 to 18

Rule a

is

1

H
for

in.

M

from

line

F

T

^

lines

Sweep back from

12,

using point

Sweep back from

C, using point

using point

X

same distance

is

5 to 22
22 to

W

C

Z

is
is
is

and

are each

knee measure.

%

of bottom meas-

to R.

V

to P.
line

from 12

8 and G.

5 to

5 to

S.

Shape from S

to 0.

G

to 0.

as

from 12

P

T

half the distance

R

shown by dotted

as

measure plus l}i

seat

shown

to

R

long arm of

to

U
N

is
is

as shown,

112

to

15

from

Y

in

manner with

regular

and take out a

V

in

back

in.

1

in.

1

to

1,

Shape from

W

Shape from

Y

Shape from P

in.

from 8

in.

in illustration.

Shape back part

9.

to 9.

and

line,

to Z.

part, as

tration

T

to

V.

finished.

to 9.

from

C and

to

PeiLrt

as a pivot.

9, letting

is

same additions

1/12 seat measure.

llA

P

Apply waist measure

as a pivot.

as a pivot.

on point C, and square up from

4 to

to

V
V

as a pivot.

F

variation for large seat.

Place corner of square at
rest

from

and 9

12,

same

from

line

Apply

P-N and V-U.
S, using point

in.

line

Shape from

Sweep forward from

J^

5 to 8.

to

Rule a

front part

Sweep forward from

is

and 18

Rule a

Shaf>e

waist measure.

Cut out front part and lay same on another paper.

T to 9

R

Shape from

Bsvck
Square out

M to V are each ^

to 18.

1/6 seat measure.

is

from

and

knock knee.

Q

to

line

M to

Shape from

to 16.

and J to K are each
Rule a line from F to K.
J to

to 5

for small hip.

from

line

13, finding point 10.

Shape front part as shown by dash

seat measure.

is 1 in.

to 15.

ure.

Square up from H.

I

for short front.

in.

from 8

line

Rule a

18 to

way between

half

is

seat measure.

5^ seat measure.

is

G

S to

and B.

in.

)^

is

^

is

Square up from

B.

in.

is J/2

8

10 to 5 and 10 to 12 are each }i waist measure.

Square out C,

C
F

to

Rule a

inside length.

is

15.

as

shown by

2 to X, and
to

U

to Z,

to

N

and

V

U

X
to

and P.

and

solid line of illus-

finish.

to

9 and

N.

W.

Small Hip, Kjiock Kjie^t Short Front, Large Seat

Combinations of Variations
Measures Used
seam

Outside
Inside

seam

Waist

40^4

in-

Knee

18

in.

31

in.

Bottom

15j^

in.

29

in.

37

Seat

leg,

long

Square up from 13 as shown by dash

line,

find-

front, flat

in.

— Large

bow

Types

of

Definition

hip,

seat, small waist.

To Draft
Square out and down from A.

C

A

to

B

to

B
C

is

half

to

E

D
D

to 15

is

outside length.

Rule a

is

inside length.

T

way between B and
2

is

E

and B.

T

from

line

from

line

15 to 9.

ing point 10.

L

to

F

J^ seat measure.

10 to 5 and 10 to

to

6

is

3^

Rule a

line

from 9

6 to S

is

3^ seat measure.

M

and

M

%

18 to

C
F
S

H

is

G

to

is

in.

in.

way between C and

is h.alf

G.

I

to 16

to

is

1

%

I is

Rule a

is

line

1

5 to

seat measure.

H
for

in.

bow

M

from

to

T

are each ^4 knee measure.

P

%

are each

bottom measure.

shown by dotted

as

line

from

9 and G.

5 to

Shape from

L

Rule a

line

from

Rule a

line

from

to C.
to R.

V

to P.

Shape as shown by dash

to 18.

G

Shape from

J4 waist measure.

Shape from C

1/6 seat measure.

is

to

5.

leg.

and J to Q are each
Rule a line from F to K.

F

S and

are each 54 waist measure.
to

V

to

and 18

to 16.

K

J to

R

for large hip.

in.

Rule a Hue from
16 to 18

to

Shape front part

Square up from H.

From B

to 15.

for long front.

is J/2 in.

Rule a

C.

in.

Square out C,

to 9

1/6 seat measure.

is

stipulated

is

from S

line

to 0.

to 0.
to

V, and front part with variations

complete.

Back Part
Cut out front part and
Rule across from

V

to

lay

P

U, and

S, using point

Sweep forward from

L, using point

L, using point

Sweep back from

C,

is

5^

as a pivot.

C

as a pivot.

Apply

F

V as a pivot.
using point V as a pivot.

Sweep back from
to 8

to

to N.

Sweep forward from

From T

U
R to N

on another paper.

in.,

amount

T

to

Z

is

is
is

in.

1

in.

1

1^

seat

in.

measure plus

\j/\

in.

from 9

to 15

toZ.

Apply waist measure

of change for small

in

regular manner.

V

in

back part, as shown

Shape from

Y

to

1,

Shape from

W to U and N.

Shape from

Y

Take out

a

in illustra-

seat.
tion.

Lay corner of square
of

same

rest

From 4
S to 7

From

at point 8, letting

long arm

on point C, and square up from
to

is

7 to

X

is

same distance

as

from

T

8.

to 8.

1/12 seat measure.

W

is

half the distance

from

T

Shape from P

to 8.
114

and

to Z,
to

N

2 to X,

V

X

to

S and W.

and P.

and

finish as

shown.

Large Hip, Bowleg, Long Front, Flat Seat, Small
Waist

J^nickers with Cuffs Jittached
These knickers are drafted best from the regular
measure

of

with

trousers,

a

snug measure

taken

around the knee.

The Following

are the Meas\irements Used:

Outside

41 J4

i"-

Seat

17

in.

Inside

32

in.

Knee

13

in.

Waist

32

in.

Bottom of

cuff

13 1/^ in

To Draft
R

Square out and down from A.

I

A to C

Square down from R.

934 inches, being the distance between

is

lengths.

M

the actual length of the leg.

C

seam

the outside and inside

C

D
E

to

to

D

is

J/2

to

E

is

2y2

in.

to

B

is

3^

in.

for cuffs.

E

Square out from C, D,

N

to

9

to

1%

is

in.

^

is

of the knee measure.

>4

in.

Shape from

L

is

9 and

to

R

O

to

F

is

^

S

is

J^ of the seat measure.

Square down from Q.

S to

G

is

1/24 of the seat measure.

N

to

O

H

half

F

to

T

of the seat measure plus J2

way between

G

K

J to

K

and C.

Rule a

L

J to

of the waist measure.

from F

line

P

to

^

is

y.

is

to K.

P

to J

and out to L.

i;'j

of the knee measure.

1/6 of the seat measure.

is

to

T
T

and G, reducing 54

to

O

and

Shape from P

to

Shape from P
Shape from S

G

and

S, allowing J4 in- at T.

Q

down

i"-

at T.

to the bottom.

to O.

Place your front part on another paper and com-

mence

J4 of the waist measure.

is

is

Shape from

in.

from

line

the

the thirds.

in.

Square up and down from H.

Rule a

to

one-third of the knee measure, 13 on

is

to

is

and down

bottom.

and B.

to

C
F

R

drafting.

Back Part
Square up from

L, using point

Square out from

S.

J to

X

Rule a
9 to Z
I

to

is

N

as the pivot.

from

XYz

4 and

I

T

to

U

and

to

X.

S

in.

to

Y

V

are each

the waist measure plus

1

in.

the seat measure plus

1

in.

is

V

a

as indicated by

between 2 and

Shape back part from

to 5 are each ^X in.

M

to

is

to the distance

more than one-

third of the knee measure.

M

to 2

Take out

1/6 of the seat measure.

line
is

X
X

J.

Sweep back from

%

in.

to

W

is

Shape from

Y

Shape from

W

The

one-third of the knee measure.

A

Apply bottom measure of cuff across the front part
and from 7 to 8 on back part and add to same 1 in.

Y

to 6,
to

1

to

X,

U, 4 and

amounting

minus two seams.

to Z,

V,

X

5

and

to

T

8.

in.

and

T

to

W.

7.

to 7.

cuff closes with 4 buttons

button stand

is

and

holes.

allowed on the back part as

indicated bv dotted line from 5 to 8.

116

6,

1/12 seat measure plus Yz

Shape from 8

more than

Y

and

1

Knickers with Cuffs Attached

in

li^lding

Breeches

Mea.sures as Follows:
Rise

10

in.

Full length

26

in.

Waist

33

in.

Width

of knee

U%

in.

Seat

39

in.

Width

of small knee

IZyz

in.

14^^

in.

Width

of calf

Uy2

in.

l"^^

in.

Width

of bottom

10

in.

2U

m.

Length

to

Length

to small

Length

to calf

knee
knee

'2

To Draft
Square out and down from A.

I

A

J to

B

to

the rise, or 10

is

in.

to

C

is

to

D

is

D

to

E

F

C

is

half

to

N

1/12 of seat measure.

L

to

M

Rule a

B.

in.

>4

N

on

rest

to

Drop

Place corner of square

same

K

K

1/12 of seat measure.

way between D and

is

knee measure.

measure and

G

Y

to

34 of

is

Square up from F.

3^ of seat measure.

is

R is 34 small
T is 34 calf

ankle measure.

Square out from B.

B
C

to

F, letting short

at

and square down

arm

of

is

line

34 waist measure.

D

from

the front }^

to L.

in.

L

at

E

to

Q,

Q

to R,

Take out a

V

of 34

in. at

from

shown by dash

as

34 waist measure.

is

L

to E,

and shape as indicated

R to T and T to Y.
Q as shown in this illus-

tration.
lines in center of trousers.

F
F
F
F

to

H

to

I

in.,

the length to calf or 21 J4

is

G

length to knee or 14>>4

plus 3^

the length to small knee or 17^/2

is

to J
to

is

is

full

length or 26

H
H

in.

to

P

to

O

I34

is
is

334

and

in-

G

V

to

is 1 in.

in.

in.

Square back from O.
in.

B

Z

to

is

134

in.

in.

Shape

Square both ways from H.
to

M

from

to Z,

Z

to

P and P

V.

Square both ways from L
Square both ways from J and G.
H to O is J4 knee measure.

as indicated

the

Extend the waistband and place the split fall in
manner illustrated in the diagram and cut out the

front part.

BeiLck Pevrt
Place the front part on another paper.

Extend

From
Rule

E

K

X

to

to 2

is

is

from

a line

ly

1/6 seat measure, plus

D

to

to

Z

to 4.

T

to 7.

Apply

line

X

to 2.

G

and

from M,
1

in.

from

L

to

M

V

5 to

is

2

in.

calf

measure plus

a ^^ of

1

1

in.

34 in. in the
in.

from

in.

from

P

to

Q

anil

as indicated

7 and 7 to

center

U

T

to

V

to

and

G

back at point

from

off the

from

W

and

Y

to

4 to

5,

Y,

to 10, 10 to 4,

8.

back part from 4 to

R

in the

indicated in this diagram and take out
1

from S to

in.

to 8.

Shape
and

1

5.

apply ankle measure plus 134

Cut
10

to

Take out

Apply knee measure plus

O

and

in.

W.
to

R

R

in.

Apply waist measure plus

X

J-4

X.

Shape as indicated from

Extend the

Apply small knee measure plus

K.

line at

1

in.

manner
at

the

line.

Extend the waistband and

finish as represented.

Riding Breeches

119

liiding Breeches
The

draft

produced from the following nieas-

is

tirements

Rise

9>4

Inseam
Waist

in.

Seat

H

Knee

17

in.

Small knee

13>^

in.

m.

Z2

in.

Calf

14

in.

32

in.

Ankle

10

in.

To Draft
Square out and down from A.

A
C
or 14

C

to

E

to

the

is

2

is

or 9y2

rise,

in. less

28 to 11 and 28 to 14 are each 34 of the calf

measure.

in.

than ^4 of the inseam measure,

I

to 5

M

to

and

to 6 are each 34 of the ankle meas-

I

in.

ure.

C

to

B

E

to

D

is

half

2y2

is

3

is

than the inseam measure.

in. less

way between B and D.

O

Square out C, E, D,

F

C
F

to S

S

to

to

and B.

G

is half way between
Square up from H.

K is %
K to Q is
J to

L

Rule a

F

T

to

M

is

Q

from F

to J

to

in.

in.

3/1

1/6 of the knee measure.

is

and

L

to C, extending 34

C, 20,

at

in.

9.

front part
is

is

thus reduced, and while the

amount

given, the exact

cut off

from the fore part would vary a little, according to
whatever is taken off the front part must be
;

and

added

to the

back part.

out.

Shape from
Shape from

K.

Q

Shape from S

to

T

and

to

T

and G, reducing

S,

extending

and

to 18, 12, 11

G

Shape from

knee measure.

34 of the

and

to 12

is

average amount

1/6 of the seat measure.

is

9

in.

from

line

17 to 22

H.

to

34 of the waist measure.

is

in.

In order to have the outside run well toward the

style

J<^

line

1

24, 10

of the waist measure.

J to

Rule a

is

to

front, the

is

Rule a

28 to 10

Shape from

and C.

same distance as C
line from H to I.

to I

134

17 to 20

in.

1/24 of the seat measure.

H
B

3-2

of the seat measure.

is 3/^
is

is

I

of the seat measure, plus

is 1/

G

24

in.

knee measure.

part

is

34

a-t

T.

at T.

in.

5.

to 18.

L

Extend the waistband from

Al to 13 are each 34 of the small

14 i"-

K

to

and the front

completed.

Back Part
Cut out the front part and place same on another

12 to 2i

paper.

5 to

Square across

at knee, small knee, calf

Square up from

X

is

W

S to
Rule a

line

J.

Apply waist measure plus 1 in. from X to 2.
Apply seat measure plus 1 in. from X to Y.
Take out a V at 1 and 4 amounting to the
tance between 2 and Y minus two seams.

M

17 to

P

is

2

M

V

is

J^ of an inch.

to

1 to

7 and

I

to

U

is

in.

Shape
dis-

in.

1

from 18

in.

to 20,

17,

U

Shape from

Y

Shape from

W to

Shape from

N

to 4,

to

Extend waistband

I.

to

28 and

Y

from

side of back part

to

Z, 27, 25,

16 and N.

of an inch.

above point

Shape as indicated from P to
Shape from P to V, 28 and 8.
is

%

in.

to 8 are each 34 in.

Points 7 and 8 are 34

18 to 21

each

11 to 15 are
in.

Apply small knee measure plus I34 in. from 12
to 24, 23 to U and V to 25.
Apply the calf measure plus 134 in. from 11 to
10, IS and 16.
Apply ankle measure plus 13/ in. from 5 to 6,
R to 7 and 8 to N.

as the pivot.

as the pivot.

1/12 of the seat measure, plus 3^
from T to X.

in.

134

Apply knee measure plus I34

and ankle.

1/6 of the seat measure.

is

and

is

21 and 27.

Sweep from S to W, using point 18
Sweep from L to Y, using point 20
J to

R

The
down to

7.

forcement

34 in.
120

in a

to

X,

21, 23, 15

X

to

T

and

T

to

and R.

to the top of breeches.

from crotch

extends

shown in the diagram shape
like manner and finish as shown.

as

W.

8 and 7 to R.

reinforcement

inside
calf,

1

;

rein-

Hiding Breeches

121

Spring Bottom Trousers

Suppose measures

All systematical points for this kind of trousers
are obtained in the regular

manner with

the exception

of the bottom.

to be:

Knee

17 m.

Bottom

20

in.

To Draft
From

I

to 6

is

4^^

in.

Square back and forth from

Extend

y^

in.

extra

6.

length

to

front

part

N

P

to

R

to 9, 2 to 3

y2 bottom measure plus

O

and

to

U

are each

1

1

at

Shape
point

is

as

shown

in illustration

in.

in.

V

to 5

and B.

finish as

repre-

from

I.

Make no

Shape from

other changes to front part from regu-

Shape from B

lation.

R

U to

to

B

is

J/2

bottom measure.

sented.

122

3 and N.

to

I

and

N

and

Broad

and

Falls

Split Falls

Broad Falls
Broad

trousers are cut the same

fall

any other

as

with the ex-

trousers,

ception that the fall-bearer

is

an ad-

dition.

The
fall

first

diagram shows the broad

showing the

pants, the solid line

fall-bearer.

Six
fall

buttonholes

are

usual

and as many buttons

the

in

in the

fall-

bearer.

The bearer

make up

The opening
thirds

enough

cut high

is

to

for the waistband.

of

the

the

in
rise

side

two-

is

of

the

waist,

in

the

bearer as

or

I

about 7 or 8 inches.

Pockets are put
indicated.

On
line

the back part which the dotted

indicates,

waistband must be

a

added.

Split Falls

The lower diagram shows
style or

split

The width

the older

fall.

of the

fall

one-sixth

is

of the waist measure, and the open-

ing

is

wide,

make
gram.

finished

the
it

end

with a strap

turned

point as

In

other

in

shown

in

respects

mafle like the broad

falls.

^

so

inch

as

to

the dia-

they

are

Over Gaiters and Leggings

A

C

^

P

I

Over-gaiters are sometimes cut as liigh as to the
knee, but on an average 9 inches in height.

We

therefore give a diagram of the average, and

by using the same method for the long gaiter

can

it

so be produced

Mea.surements Used:
9

Length

Leg

12><

Calf

13

in.

Ankle

11

in.

in.

Instep

16

in.

23^

Bottom

in.

Mea.su rements Used

in.

To Draft
Draw

a straight line from

A

to

U.

Follows:

a-s

Length

15

in.

Knee

13

in.

Calf

13K'

i"-

Ankle

11

in.

Square across from A.

A
U
C

U

to

To

the length of the gaiter.

is

to

C

is

4

in.

to

B

is

4

in.

R

is

half

way between

Square across

at B,

U

and C.

Rule a

C and U.

A
A

Square back from R.

C

E

to

one-fourth of the ankle measure.

is

Square up

G

P

to

plus y>

F
plus J^

N

E

to

F and

G.

one-half the measure around the leg

B
C

one-half the measure around the calf

is

K

plus 3^

is

one-half of the instep measure plus

S

is

one-half of the bottom measure

Buttons should be placed
front

Ti.

to

C

is

1%

in.

N is one-half the calf measure plus ^
K is one-half the ankle measure plus

J^j

in.

in.
in.

order to obtain
in.

from

line

Put on heel straps

A

in the

this,

add

middle of the
to

G

and

R

to

S are each

2^

in.

line

bottom, extending one inch at S.

Shape the button stand as indicated by extending

line,

both hack and

one inch at U.

U.

at L'

to

from G to S.
L to U is 1 '4 in.
Square up from U and make this the button stand.
Shape as indicated from G to F and down to the

Shape as shown in the diagram from G, F, E
and S, S to U, and M, and from P to N. K and M.
in

to
to

Rule a

plu.s

yi in.

and

R

the buttons.

A
to

is 3,'/. in.

;

M

y2 m.

M

B

R.

to

Shape as indicated from P to X and K.
to O and R to L are each 2"^ in.
Rule a line from L to O this is where you place

in.

to

to

A

the length of the legging.

A

one-half the measure around the ankle

is

is

Square down from K.

in.

to

E

from

from

R

Square back and forth from A, B, C and R.
A to P is one-half the knee measure plus Yi

in.

to

E

line

is

line

to

Dracft

Place buttons on the side as shown

and

finish as

shown.

and
124

finish as

shown.

in this

diagram

MILITARY,
LIVERY and

SPORTING

GARMENTS

125

Army

Description of Garments for Officers of the
Dress Coat

Fvill
For
collar

all

the

;

except Chaplains.

officers,

skirt

the l)end of the knee

For general

;

made

officers the collar will be

For other

all

to

;

the sleeve will have a cuff of blue

made

of the same material as the coat,

made detachable

prescribe

for

officers,

and extending
all

epaulets.

officers.

all

ornamentation of the collar for the General

may

for the Lieutenant General, such as he

;

For other general

For

general

other officers, shoulder knots of gold wire cord, to be securely fastened to the coat, and to

COLLAR ORNAMENT. — The
officers

all

way

the

all

around the

may

be such as he

prescribe after consultation with the General.
in

around.
will

and

collar

two bands of

consist of

parallel with

its

J/2

inch gold wire lace, two vel-

edge, the upper edge of the upper band being

lower edge of the lower band resting on

inch from the edge of the collar, the

The upper band

will

ornamented with a band of oak leaves embroidered

the collar will be

other officers the ornament

lums, passing
y^

from the point of the hip

cufTs will simply be a continuation of the material of the sleeves.

For

gold,

of blue black velvet
the collar will be

officers

SHOULDER ORNAMENTS.— For
be

three-quarters the distance

to

the lining to be black, with pockets on the inside of the skirt.

black velvet 4 inches wide.

and the

double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, with standing

from one-half

extend

to

—A

the

seam.

collar

brought down parallel to the front edge of the collar and distant 34 inch there-

to be

The two bands

from, and to be joined to the lower band.

ground of

of gold wire lace to be on a

or cloth of the color of the facings of the corps, department or

arm

silk

of the service, with an interval of

not less than J4 inch nor more than V^ inch between the bands.

SLEEVE ORNAMENT. —The
may

prescribe

for the

;

For other general
embroidered

leaves

ornamentation of the sleeve for the Generals

officers

velvet

the

cuff

of the

gold passing around the cuff

in

may

Lieutenant General, such as he

below the upper edge of the velvet cuff;
star for a brigadier general,

embroidered

to

sleeve

will

ornamented with

be

he

band of oak

a

band of oak leaves

the top of the

;

such as

be

will

prescribe after consultation with the General.

be

to

1

inch

be surmounted by two stars for a major general and one

each star to have one point up and placed above the

in silver,

velvet cuff.

For general
will be

placed

For

all

1

officers of the staff

inch

above the velvet

indicated by

rank,

arm

and the

General

Staff'

stars, as before,

Corps,

flat

2^-2

gold wire lace

inch

Y^

in

width.

The

proper

insignia

inch above the insignia.

1

inches from the end of the sleeve

the

;

to be

inch gold

wire

surmounted by the insignia

insignia of the corps, department or

space

lace insignia.

BUTTONS. —Two

regulation gilt buttons will be placed at the back of the waist, and one regulation

button near the end of each

Three small regulation
For

two

lace,

of service, in gold or silver metal or embroidery will be placed in the center of the open

under the

gilt

cuff,

the

other officers the sleeve will be ornamented with a band of Yi

vellums, passing around the cuff
of

departments, except

gilt

officers of the various

skirt,

making four buttons on

buttons

be

will

grades regulation

the back of the coat, for

all

officers.

placed on the cuff at sleeve for general officers only.
gilt

buttons will be placed on the breast of the coat as

follows

GENERAL. — Two
8 to

10

inches

at

the

rows, twelve in each row, placed bv fours, the distance between rows being from
top

and from 4

to

5

inches at the bottom

rically disposed.
121)

;

rows and groups

to

be

symmet-

U.

S.

Army

Uniforms

i
SOCIAL DRESS UNIFORM

LINE OFFICER'S FULL DRESS

DISMOUNTED

127

U.

Jirmy Uniforms

S.

LIEUTENANT GENERAL. — The

in

same as for the General, except that there will be ten buttons
each row, the upper and lower groups by three and the middle groups by fours.
MAJOR GENERAL. The same as for the General, except that there will be nine buttons in each

—

row, placed by threes.

BRIGADIER GENERAL.— The
each row, placed

same

as for the General, except that there will be eight buttons in

in pairs.

COLONEL, LIEUTENANT COLONEL AND MAJOR.— The
that

there

same

as

for the

General, except

be nine buttons in each row, buttons at equal intervals.

will

CAPTAIN, FIRST LIEUTENANT, SECOND LIEUTENANT

LIEUTENANT. —The same as
FOR THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS.— The
for a

Colonel,

AND ADDITIONAL SECOND

except that there will be seven buttons in each row.

same

as that of general

ofificers,

with the following

exceptions

A

piping of scarlet velvet >^ inch wide, to be placed along the upper and outer edges of
the lapels, continuing down the edges of the skirt to the bottom, and from top of back flaps in middle

Piping:

of back to bottom of skirt.

To be of scarlet velvet with one row of Yz inch gold two-line vellum thread lace
showing 3-32 inch of braid on each side, }4 inch from the outer edge of the
white
braid,
placed upon
scarlet velvet, following the vertical and horizontal lines, with a regulation gilt button placed in the lower
Skirt Facings:

corner of the scarlet velvet just inside the gold lace.
For all other officers of the Corps of Engineers.

—The

as for other officers, with the following

same

exceptions

A

Piping:
of collar lace

back

flap

piping of scarlet cloth yi inch wide, to be placed around the base of neck, the edge
down the front edge of lapel, stopping at the bottom, and from top of

along top, and

the middle of the back to the bottom of skirt.

in

To

Skirt Facings:

be of scarlet cloth with one row of

J/'

upon white braid, showing 3-32 inch of braid on each side, ^4

inch gold wire two-vellum lace placed

inch

from

the outer edge of the scarlet

cloth, following the vertical and horizontal lines, with a regulation gilt button placed in the lower corner

of the scarlet cloth just inside the gold lace.

—

For Chaplains. A black frock coat, without ornamentation, with standing
black silk buttons on the breast. Of same length as for other officers.

collar,

one row of nine

Dress Coat

—

For general officers. A sack coat of dark blue cloth or serge; three small regulation gilt buttons
on the cufT at sleeve high rolling collar double breasted, with two rows of regulation gilt
buttons grouped according to rank, as on the full dress coat the skirt to extend one-third the distance
from the point of the hip to the bend of the knee. A slit extending from 2 inches above to 2 inches
below the hip, so as to permit of hooking up of saber. A shoulder strap will be placed on each shoulInside pockets.
der, adjacent to the seam, and collar ornaments on the collar.
cloth or serge, with standing collar
blue
For all other officers. A single-breasted sack coat of dark
slit
fastened with two hooks and eyes coat to close with flap containing suitable concealed fastenings
distance
not exceeding 3 inches for hooking up saber the skirt to extend from one-third to two-thirds the
from the point of the hip to the bend of the knee, according to the height of the wearer cut to fit the
The coat to be trimmed
figure easily; a vertical opening at each side of the hip, according to pattern.

will be placed

;

;

;

—

;

;

;

:

with lustrous

flat

Edged all around the bottom, the
upward from the bottom along both side openings of the skirt.
ornaments will be worn with this garment.

black mohair braid 1^4 inches wide, as follows:

front edges, the collar, and for 6 inches

Shoulder straps and collar

Service Coat
For
material,

all

officers.

—A

single-breasted sack coat of olive drab woollen material or khaki-colored cotton

made with two

tern below the waist

;

outside

breast

choked-bellows pockets and two outside pockets of same pat-

pockets to be without plaits and covered by
128

flaps,

rounded

at

edges, buttoned by

U.

S.

Army

FIELD OFFICER— MOUNTED

Uniforms

GENERAL OFFICER'S UNIFORM

129

a

small

regulation

on the wearer.

The

button.

On

coat

have

to

from

falling collar,

to

1

inches in width, depending

1;54

each shoulder a loop of the same material as the coat

in

let

at

shoulder seam and

reaching from the sleeve seam to the edge of the collar, and buttoning at the upper end with a small
regulation button; loops to be 2 inches wide at the shoulder end and
coat to

ment

fit

buttoned

;

and loosely

closely at the waist

down

the

with

front

this coat to

The

regulation buttons.

five

tance from the point of the hip to the bend of the knee.

The

inch wide at the collar end.

1

at the chest, at least 5 inches in excess of the chest

measure-

extend one-third the

skirt to

Sleeves to be without cufTs.

dis-

buttons for

All

be of dull finish bronze metal.

Collar ornaments

will

be

worn with

The

garment.

this

insignia

rank

of

be

will

on the

placed

Chaplains will wear a plain Latin cross of dull finish bronze metal

shoulder loop, near the sleeve seam.
in lieu of the insignia of rank.

Officers of the General Staff Corps, except the Chief of Staff,

will

wear

band of black braid

a

i/S

inch wide on the sleeve of the service coat, the lower edge of the braid 3 inches from the end of the
sleeve.

White Coa.t

—

For all officers. A single-breasted sack coat of white material, with standing collar fastened with
two hooks and eyes, white metal coat to close with a flap containing suitable concealed fastenings. The
skirt to extend from one-third to two-thirds the distance from the point of the hip to the bend of the
;

according to the height of the wearer

knee,

The

side of the hip, according to pattern.

cut

;

to

fit

the figure easily

;

opening

a vertical

each

at

trimmed with white flat braid 1J4 inches wide, as
follows
Edged all around the bottom, the front edges, the collar, and for 6 inches upward from the
bottom along both side openings of the skirt. White shoulder loops of the same material as the coat,
let in at shoulder seams, and of the pattern prescribed for the service coat.
coat to be

:

Insignia on the collar to be the

same

as prescribed for the dress coat

insignia of rank to be placed

;

on the shoulder loop, as prescribed for the service coat.

OvercoBLt
For

—A

double-breasted ulster of olive drab woolen material, suitably lined, and closing
by means of five large buttons 45 lines diameter; a standing rolling collar, the "stand" to be not less
all

officers.

than }i nor more than lj4 inches, and the turn
inches in width.
coat,

down

Collar in front to be closed by two

inches in length and 2 inches in width, provided

5

tachable,

so as to close the

falling

part of the

part not less than 4 nor

(falling)

hooks and eyes; a

collar

with

of same

flap

one buttonhole

when worn

at

more than

material

each

end,

5

as

the

made

de-

closed.

A

pocket on each side, placed vertically, lower end of pocket 2 inches below the hip bone, extending
to 10 inches upward.
Over the pockets a flap of same length, rounded at edges and closed by
a small button at middle of flaps.
Slits of pockets to be cut through linings, thus permitting the slings

from 8

come through left pocket hole for hooking up of saber.
20 to 25 inches and closed by small buttons under concealed
to

Coats to extend down the legs from 8
wearer.

Sleeves

loose,

without cuffs

or

to

slit.

The back
flap,

to be

slit

up from the bottom
from right to left.

the latter buttoning

10 inches below the knee, according to the height of the

Back straps placed

at

waist

line, let in at the side

seams,

and to button together by two large buttons.

A

hood of same material as

coat, lined with suitable material of

the neck under the collar by

and cap.

When

in

means of
garrison the hood

Under arms, only when prescribed by
All buttons to be of horn,

The

five

small buttons.

will

ordinarily be

the

conforming

commanding
in

it

is

Insignia on Sleeve.

same

color;

to be large

worn only

at

made

enough

night or

in

to button

around

to cover the

head

inclement weather.

officer.

color to the material of the coat.

front corners of the skirt to be provided with

turned back when

Hood

buttons or hooks, so that said corners

may

be

necessary to facilitate marching.

— Sleeve

insignia of rank as prescribed

:

in

addition thereto the insignia of corps.

U.

S.

Army

MILITARY OVERCOAT

Uniforms

MILITARY CAPE

131

department,

arm

or

of

of

service,

bronze metal, will be placed

finish

diill

in

the middle of the lower

loop 13^ inches above the end of the sleeve.

For general

band of lustrous black mohair braid, 1,'4 inches wide,
surmounted by the proper number of stars, 1
inch in diameter, of dull finish bronze metal, placed % inch above the braid the stars to be surmounted
by a band of lustrous black mohair braid 3^ inch wide, 34 inch above the stars.

placed with

its

officers the insignia will consist of a

lower edge

2^

inches above end of sleeve

;

;

Overcoats for chaplains to be without insignia of rank.
Officers of the General Stafif Corps, except general officers, will

%

wear a band of black mohair braid

inches wide on the sleeve, the lower edge of braid to be l^A inches above the end of the sleeve, the

lower ends of the prescribed insignia of rank to rest upon the upper edge of

this

band.

Cacpes
For

—To

officers.

all

fingers with the

be of dark blue cloth without braid binding, reaching at least to the tips of the

arm dropped

and not below the knee

at the side,

3 inches broad, and closing at the throat with a long loop.

on duty with troops under arms.

To

It

;

with a rolling collar of black velvet

may

be worn by

all

officers

when not

be lined as follows

—

For general officers and officers of the Staff Corps and departments. Dark
For officers of infantry. Light blue.
For officers of artillery.
For officers of cavalry. Yellow.

—
—

blue.

— Scarlet.

Full Dress Trousers
For general

— Of

dark blue cloth, with two stripes of gold wire lace 3^ inch wide with 34
mounted upon light weight velvet of color of cuffs and collar of coat and
placed along the outside seam of the trousers. In the case of the Chief of Engineers the interval between
the two stripes shall be scarlet velvet.
For officers holding permanent appointments in the Staff Corps and departments, except Engineers.
officers.

inch interval between them,

Of dark
For
at the

blue cloth, with one stripe of gold wire lace Y^ inch wide along each outside seam.
and infantry. C)f sky blue cloth with stripes 13^ inches wide, welted

—

officers of cavalry, artillery

edges

the color of the stripes to be that of the facings of the respective corps or arms, except that

;

for officers of infantry the stripes shall be white.

For
in

of the Corps of Engineers.

all officers

— Of dark

blue cloth, with stripes of scarlet cloth

13/$

inches

width, with a piping of white cloth 34 inch in width.

For chaplains.

— Of

plain black or blue black cloth, without stripe, welt or cord.

Dress Trousers
For general

officers, officers

—Of dark blue
be of
blue
other
—The

cept Engineers.
trousers shall

For

all

holding permanent appointments in the Staff Corps and departments, ex-

cloth without stripe, welt or cord, except that for the Chief of Artillery the

light

officers.

cloth

same

with the addition of a stripe of scarlet cloth I3X inches wide.
as for full dress.

White Trovisers
For

all

officers.

— Of

plain white material to

match

the white coat, without stripe, welt or cord.

Service Trousers
For

all

— Of

officers.

olive drab,

woolen, or khaki-colored cotton material, to match the coat, without

stripe, welt or cord.

Dress Breeches
For

—Of

same material and with same stripes as dress trousers, cut in the prescribed
pattern and fastened from the knee down with dark bone buttons of appropriate size or with laces.
all

officers.

Service Breeches
For

all

officers.

— Of olive

drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, to
132

match the service

coat,

U.

S.

Army

Uniforms

\:

SUMMER UNIFORM

DRESS UNIFORM

133

and above the knees to fit closely below
with tapes or laces or buttons.
To
and
to
be
fastened
the knee, extending to the tops of the shoes,
for
officers
required
to
be
have a re-enforced or saddle piece of the same material on the seat and legs

To

without stripe, welt or cord.

be

made

loose about the seat

;

.

mounted.

Uniform
The commanding
or

designate the uniform for evening wear on

will

officer

Evening Wear

for

all

occasions of a general

official

character occurring within the limits of his command.

For occasions of special formality, the uniform for evening functions shall be the prescribed full
dress dismounted uniform.
For other occasions of ceremony to which officers are invited in their official capacity, such as balls,
official dinners, official receptions, etc., and formal mess dinners, the following special full dress uniform
is authorized, and officers are at liberty to wear it or the full dress dismounted uniform
An evening dress coat of dark blue cloth cut on the lines of the civilian dress coat, with the gilt buttons of the same number and place as regulation requires the sleeves of this coat to be ornamented for
;

all

officers

A

same manner

in the

as the sleeves of their full dress

should be worn with this coat; also

tons,

uniform

coats.

waistcoat of dark blue or white, cut low with full open bosom, three small gilt
dress trousers by

full

all

officers

regulation but-

except those of engineers,

and infantry, who will wear dark blue trousers without stripes, patent leather shoes and
for other
Shoulder ornaments for general officers will be epaulets or shoulder knots
full dress cap.
On proper occasions which are not official in character, officers
officers, except chaplains, shoulder knots.
are authorized to wear civilian evening dress.

cavalry, artillery

;

Mess Jacket
Officers

the

of

staff

departments, the corps of artillery and the regiments of cavalry and

corps and

infantry are authorized to adopt a "mess jacket" distinctive of their corps, department or regiment.

To

be

made

of dark blue cloth.

Body

of jacket to be cut like evening dress coat, to descend to point

curved to a peak behind and

of hips, slightly

on each

lation coat size

placed

side,

IJ^

front; five buttonholes on lapels, three buttons of regu-

in

inches from bottom, and spaced 2 to 3j^ inches apart.

Sleeves

ornamented same as full dress coat. Such further distinctive ornamentation of this jacket as may
be desired by the organizations named is authorized, but when once adopted the "mess jacket" for any
particular organization shall not be changed without authority of the Secretary of War on the recom-

to be

mendation of a majority of the

With

this jacket will be

officers interested.

worn

the detachable shoulder knot provided for full dress coat; also vests

of the color of the coat or white.

Commanding
worn with

officers

may

in

the tropics or in the

warm

season authorize the white trousers to be

this jacket.

Black shoes

will

always be worn with

this jacket.

Professors and associate professors of the United States Military

pointments as such, will wear the

Department, omitting the

full

dress and dress

uniforms of

Academy holding permanent

officers

of

the

Military

ap-

Secretary's

aiguillettes.

DESCRIPTION OF GARMENTS AND OTHER ARTICLES OF
UNIFORM FOR ENLISTED MEN OF THE ARMY
Dress Coat
A

single-breasted sack coat of dark blue cloth, fastened with six regulation buttons

standing collar

;

shoulder loops, of the same material and color,

ton to the collar with a small regulation button
regulation buttons.

The

of corps, department or

and Signal Corps

to be

collar,

arm
mixed

;

shoulder loops and

of service.

The

let in

the sleeves to have a cuiT,
cufifs to

down

the front

seam and to butornamented with three small

at the shoulder

be piped with "cord edge braid" of the color

color of the braid for Engineers, Ordnance, Hospital Corps

in alternate stripes.

U.

S.

Army

CHAPLAIN

Uniforms

KNIGHT TEMPLAR UNIFORM

J

35

Collar ornaments for enlisted men, of _vellow material similar to those for officers, will be placed on
this coat in

same manner

on the dress coat of the officers.
wear the insignia of regiment or corps on
same as worn on cap.

the

as

Musicians and trumpeters
musicians a

lyre,

will

their coat collars.

Band

Breast Cord
Cords and

tassels

of mohair of the color of the corps, department or

tached to the dress coat, beginning at the button of the

neck and the other

front,

in

under the

first

left

arm

of the service, to be at-

shoulder loop, one cord passing

in rear of

the

button of the coat, crossing under the right shoulder loop

and brought together under the right arm with a slide, then passing across the breast between the third
and fourth buttons and attached to the left shoulder button.

Service Coat
A

sack coat of olive drab woolen material or khaki-colored cotton material conforming in design and

cut to the service coat for officers.

dress coat, except that

all

The same

collar

ornaments

will

be placed on this coat as on the

buttons and metal ornaments will be of dull finish bronze metal.

White Coat
A

Collar ornaments to be the same as prescribed for the dress

sack coat of bleached cotton duck.

coat.

Fatigue Coat
For

ail

enlisted

men.

— Of

brown cotton duck.

Overcoats
For

all

enlisted

men.

—Of

olive drab

woolen material, general design and cut

to be that of the officers'

overcoat, the buttons to be of dull finish bronze metal.

Dress Trousers
For

all

enlisted

men.

—

(_)f

sky blue kersey.

Stripes for Trousers
Stripes to be of cloth of the following colors

— Yellow.
—
Infantry. — White.
Engineers. — Scarlet,
Cavalry.

Artillery.

Army

(

)rdnance.

piped with scarlet.

Post Commissary Sergeants.
piped with white.

Hospital Corps.

service detachment of the United States Military

All noncommissioned officers above the rank of corporal

cluding pipings.

— Black,

—Buff.
— Cadet gray.

Post Quartermaster Sergeants.

Scarlet.

—Orange,

piped with white.

—

Academy, West Point, N. Y.
will wear stripes 1>4 inches

Buft'.

in

width,

in-

All corporals will wear stripes ^^ inch wide, including pipings.

Musicians and trumpeters will wear two

stripes,

each ;/ inch wide.

White Trousers
Of

bleached ciittun duck, without stripes.

Canvas Fatigue Trousers
Of brown

cotton duck, without stripes.

Service Breeches
of

drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, to match the service coat. To be worn withmade loose above the knee, fitting closely below the knee, extending to the tops of
the shoes, and fastened with tapes or laces to be worn with shoes and leggings.
olive

out stripes; to be

;

For mounted

use, to

have a reinforced or saddle piece of the same material on seat and

general design of the breeches will conform to the pattern prescribed for

officers.

legs.

The

DIAGRAMS

for

UNIFORMS.
LIVERY and
SPORTING

COSTUMES

137

Frock Uniform for U.

Army

S,

Mounted and

Officers,

Unmounted
Measurements as Follows:

Proportionate draft subject to height, variations

Note that

and supplementary measurements.

in

Natural waist

mih-

Fashionable waist

„
tary garments proportion is ciianged so as to make
^ ^
^
blade K' 'i- smaller, and waist measure is 1 in. less
X

,

,

I

which would be preferable

proportion,

than

in

I8J/2

in.
in.

Breast

36

in.

Waist

31

in.

Seat

57

in.

,,

,

1

Full length
"

all

military garments.

ni.

ii
ii

-r-

_

1/

To Draft
Shape

Square out and down from A.

A
V
A
A
A

to

V

to
to

B
C

to

D

is

to

E

is full

1/3 breast measure.

is
is

3

is

natural waist length.

L

.

4 to

B
F
B

to

F

to

H

to

S

is

^

S

to

G

is

3

G

to

W

is

l/'6

B

to

N

is

breast measure.

N

to

I is

as 2 to

1/3 breast measure.

is

6 to

breast measure.

X is
T is

yi

to

T

to

R

^

to

_

to

L

to

Q

23 to 13

G

down

as

in.

in.

W

Shape as shown

down

in illustration

9 to 27

is

27 to 35

C

to

U

334

is

from

O

to

I,

and

U

to 8

is

9 to

34.

U

and

rule a line

from

\' to

to 23

is

K

to 11

is J/2 in.

in.

illustration

from 13

to 7

and

is

Y

to 22

to 9.

Take out

V

stipulated between 27

From 33

to

30

is

30 to 28

is

4

26 to 25

is

3}i

same distance
in illustration

and

35.

as 33 to P.

from 30

to 31.

in.
in.

Rule a line from 28 to 25.
Shape bottom of lapel as shown in illustration, and
place buttons and l)uttonholes as shown.

U.

1/6 breast measure.

K

}i

as

in

as

Shape as shown

in.

Square down from

Add

in.

y2 in.

is

in.

3/s

Shape shoulder from Y to X.
Shape neckhole from X to P.
Shape front as shown in illustration from P

9.

Square down from

is

1/6 breast measure.
Shape armhole as shown in illustration from

and down

same distance

line.

to 13.

1/6 breast measure plus jA

is

Square back from

line.

below fashionable waist

in.

to 10.

X to
Q to P

])oint Z.

as dotted lines.

22 to 9

below fashionable waist

in.

3/2

shown in illustration from S to 6 and 20.
from S to 5 and 21.
bottom of side body from 24 to 20.
bottom of front part from 21 to 35.
Y is same distance as R to 11 minus 3/s in.

J4 waist measure.

is

is

Shape as shown

1/6 breast measure.

is

in.

Square down from 24.
R"le a line from G to 23.

Shape
Shape
Shape
Shape

Rule a line from
to R.
Square back from point K. finding
Rule a line from X to Z.
Square out from X by balance line.

X

•

1/3 waist suppression, or same distance

5 is

Point 21

in.

1/6 breast measure.

is

indicate.

>4 waist measure.

^

a pivot.
1

is

24 to 10 is )4
Point 20 is

breast measure.

Square up and down from I.
Square up from W.
Square up and down from G.
Square up from H.
Sweep back from point 1 to X, using point

A

and 3

2/3 waist suppression, or same distance

is

as 4 to 2.

in.

2j4

to

U.

7 to 6

is 1 in.

R

to R,

waist suppression, divided in three eqiml

is

8 to 7

and E.

A

in.

parts, as Figures 4, 2

length of coat.

from

>^ waist measure.

is

U

2

is

M to 4

fashionable waist length.

D

M

to

in illustration

8 and down.

23 to

11, 11 to 23,

in.

Square out B, C,

shown

as

8.

1/6 breast measure.

Lav up

a standing collar in connection with this

diagram as per illustration, and be sure it is in length
the same distance as from A to R and X to P.

to top of back at point A.
138

Frock Uniform for U,

S.

Jlrmy

Officers^

Mounted and

Unmounted

Skirt
10 to 14

is

14 to 15

is

1/3 seat measure.

From

1/12 seat measure.

12 to 29

10 to 12 is same distance as 24 to 20, 21 to 35,
and 27 to 25.
Square down from 12 bv fashionable waist line.

1

is same distance as from D to E.
same distance as from 10 to 17 minus

10 to 17
is

in.

Shape top of
back of same, and
139

skirt,

front

finish as

and bottom,

shown.

as well as

Military Blouse
Measures as Follows:
Waist length

17

in.

Breast

36

in.

To

23)^
29

in.

Waist

31

in.

in.

Seat

2)7

in.

To

Draft

seat

Full length

Square out and down from A.

Rule a

A
V
A
A

C

A

to \'

to

B
C

to
to

to

1/3 breast measure.

is

3

is

natural waist length.

Rule a

D

is

length to seat.

21 to 4

E

is full

in.

F

to

H

to

S

is 3^2
is

is

S

to

G

to

W

B

to

N

N

to

I is

and E.

1/3 breast measure,

is

G

D

to

3 in.

1/6 breast measure.

is

breast measure.

is

2^4

in.

to

T

to

T
R

to

X

is

1/6 breast measure.

is

J4 in-

Rule a line from J to P.
Shape as shown in illustration from X to P.
Shape shoulder from Y to X.
Shape armhole as shown in illustration from

Y

to

L

to

O

is

K

to

is

X

is

^

%

in.
in.

to 7

is

yi waist measure.

7 to 21

is

waist suppression, which

parts, as Figures 7

From
From

pivot.

4 to 3

is

and 2

is

divided into

indicate.

3^ waist suppression, or

same

dis-

M to 8

is J/j

waist suppression, or same dis-

7.

Apply seat measure on 2/3 of divisions plus IjX
from 10 to 14 and U to 12.
Shape as shown in illustration from 23 to 3 and 12,
from 19 to
and 17, and from 19, 8 to 18.
Sweep back from point 5, using 23 as a pivot.
Sweep forward from 6, using point X as a pivot.
Shape as shown in illustration from 6 to 17 and 18

line.

in.

M

0.

illustration

from

O

to I

from

A

to R,

and

0.

to Z.

i"-

Shape as shown
24 and out.
24 to 11

by balance

X

from
K'

2

tance as 2 to 21.

54 waist measure.

line

24

is

tance as from 2 to

Square down from
Shape as shown in
Rule a

1/6 breast measure.

is

to

two equal

1/6 breast measure.

is

is

M

M

W

Square out from

X

P

to

S to 19

L

i^ in.

is

seat measure.

]/4

to 23.

Rule a line from
to R.
Square back from K, finding point Z.
Sweep back from point 1, using point G as a
1

is

23

Square up from W.
Square up and down from G.
Square up from H.

A

to 21.

34 waist measure.

is

11 to 23,

O

breast measure.

21.

from Z

Shape as shown in illustration from
4 and 10 and down to 5.

in.

1

to 23.

in.

1

line

14 to 10

length of coat.

Square out from B, C,
to

is

Square down from

is

B
F
B

from B

line

to 21

in illustration

R

to

to 16.

Lay up standing

collar l}^ in. wide, as

shown

in

illustration.

in.

X to 20 is same distance as R to
20 to Y is same distance as K to
Rule a line from X to Y.
K to 23 is 1/6 breast measure.

Dotted

11.

line

in

front of blouse

ndicates button

stand.

24.

Dot and dash line illustrating peak
front shows front of mess jacket.

lapel

and

cut-

away

Mess Jacket
Take out

From
From
Crease

V

of

Ij/^ in.

15 to 13
to 21
line is

is

is

ZjA

3^4

from

P

Shape lapel and front from 15 to 13, and 13 to 21.
Cut away as shown by dash line, and mess jacket

to 15.

in.

in.

shown bv dot and dash

is

line.
140

finished.

Military Blouse
Mess Jacket

Military Overcoat

— U.

Army

J.

Measures as Follows
Waist length

18

in.

Waist

36

To

seat

25

in.

Seat

41

Full length

47

in.

Breast

40

in.

To
All systematical points are obtained in

Excess of 4

V

and

taken out

Square up and down from
30 to 20

same distance

is

same man-

16 to 19

20 to 21

is

4

4

in.

is

3^

Shape front

as

30.

in.

shown

in

illustration

from 21

to

to 30.
13,

to 15

is

Square out from

in front.

from P

circumference allowed for

DraLft

I.

as

in.

exaggeration.

ner as in double-breasted box overcoat, with the exception of collar

sizes of

in.

15 and 19.

in.

CoUacr
28 to 27

Shape

as

From P

X

is

1

shown
to

Make width

in.

26

in illustration
is

from 27

same distance

as

A

to P.

to

R

same width
and

Shape

to P.

Width of

collar stand

from

P

13^

in.,

and

in back.

collar

all

around as per

Place pockets as shown
to

in

illustration.

this illustration,

with

22 and 26 to 25
flaps

is

of collar from 2i to 24 4

and buttons.

in.

Shape
allow J4

as

in.

shown

for

in illustration

from 27

seam on upper part of

have seam come on

to 23,

Place belt on back with two buttons and finish

and
as

collar so as to

inside.

142

shown.

— U.

Military Overcoat

J.

Army

General Officer's Dress Uniform
Measures Used as Follows:
Waist length

Length

to

seat

17^

in.

Breast

38

in.

23^

in

Waist

33

in.

in.

Seat

39

in.

.29

Full length

To Draft
All systematical points are obtained in the

manner as for regular military blouse.
The difference between this garment and
military blouse
front

that this

is

the

double breasted, and

obtained in the following manner

is

O

is

Square across from

same

point

by

21 to 15

is

same distance

15 to 13

is

4

in.

25 to 26

is

3

in.

Square down from waist

1/6 breast measure.
Place corner of square at 25, level same with
to 25

P

is

W-1.

line

P

as

line

to 21.

through 26 and rule

a line from 13 to 26.

and square up.

Collar
From P

X

to 27

is

same distance

as

A

to

R

and

27 to 29

P

to P.

Shape

as

27 to 28

shown
is

154

Shape from 28

in illustration

from 27

to

30

Shape

to P.

to 29,

in.

to P.

Ui

is

is

as

3 in.
3

in.

shown

in illustration

29 to 30 and 30 to P, and

from 28

finish as

to 27,

shown.

27

General Officer's Dress Uniform

and Military Capes

Circular
view of the

111

the cape
it is

fact that

to side, as well as

down.

was Produced from the Following Measures

Draft

Breast

36

in.

From neck over

Back length

26

in.

Front length

To

shoulder and

H

Square up from A.

C

to

B

A

to

Square out from C and B.

B
F

to

C
F

1/6 breast measure.

is

y2 breast measure.

M

to

N

to

G

is

3^

N

to

P

G

to

W

line
is

to

T

in.

1/6 breast measure.

Rule a

from

H

to

Rule a

W and down.

to

R

is

^

Square out

H

M

to

Rule a

by

line

line

1/3 breast measure.

1/3 breast measure.

is
is

1^4

line

in.

H

from

to P.

side length

from

A
R

shown by

from

E

to

X

Shape from

M.

A

Shape neckhole from

solid line

to R.

R

to

M

and

from

D

to D.
to J.

M

Apply front length from

H-W.

1/6 breast measure.

is

is

Apply back length from
Apply

H-O

in.

in.

1/6 breast measure.

is

in.

line

.ZSyi

Square down from P.

1/6 breast measure.

Square up from T.

T

.

Dratft
to

A

at side.

26

A

is

i

down

Square out and down from A.

is

back length

from back of neck down, and front length from throat

advisable to take measurements from the neck over

The

and down

the shoulder

tiiat

on the hand or arm,

a certain position

fall to

often required

is

it

to J

to

O

and

P and S and

to

and shape as

S.

circular cape

is

completed.

out.

Milita.ry Ca.pe
Is

from
to J

from

produced from same pattern by cutting

R

to

E

and

plait as

shown by

and U, leaving opening

R

to

K, reducing width

Dot and dash

at

bottom and

U

fall in

is

cape

is

is

Capes lend themselves

collar.

and lengths, the accompanying drafts

forming the groundwork.

front.

These are intended for

of opening through or facing with

shown

turn

a very

Some

down and

illustration

to

in

sired can be

All of these

collar

ready for the

to various styles

ton stand.

graceful folds.

garments are to be made before the

Neck being on

the cape

lines

They must be properly balanced

allow the fulness to

E

and D.

will be noticed that cutting a

simple matter.

tape shall be basted on the neck to remain there until

open

from

shown by dotted

lines illustrate military cape, as

by points A, R, E, K, L, V,
It

as

illustration

it

are

made with

regular coat.

the bias of the cloth necessitates that a

146

or without but-

lapels

and

others in military style as

regular cape.

Any

collars to

shown

style of collar

in

de-

attached to these capes for the reason

that the neckhole of the cape

put on.

fly

style

is

the

same shape

as

Circular

and Military Capes

147

Capes
Regular Cape
Cape

cut with

is

measures used for

seams over the sliuulders and

illustration are as follows

Back length

32

in.

Breast measure

36

in.

To Draft
Back Part
Square out and down from A.

Square out from H.

A to C is 1/6 breast measure.
A to E is full length of cape.
A to T is 1/6 breast measiu'e.
T to R is }i in.

H

to

F

F

to

G

is

J<2

2

is

to

H

Rule a

line

from

R

to G.

Rule a

line

from

G

to I

K

breast measure.

J to

Shape as shown

R

F.

is

3

to

Z
B

to

D

to

is

Rule a

%

is

is

S

G

to

to

I)

to

M

is

3

D.

L

to

N

is

iy2

R

to S,

From 3
From S

as

shown by dash

S

.A.

to

R

and

and

I

K

and shape from

E

to K.

IS

\}{[

A

to

R

and

R

to S.

in.

in illustration

from S

to 3

and S

4. 5 to 4,

line.

4

is

4

in.

to 5

is

4

in.

to

to

Shape

in.

Shape button stand

from

to

in.

Shape as shown in illustration from
and down to L and from L to K.
S to
is 1'^ in.

in illustration

same distance as

is

i to 2

Shape as shown

A

Square down from D.

E

to 3

From

in.

from

as a

Collar

in.

1%

R

to G.

Shape from

1/3 breast measure.

line

point E, using point

in.

Front Part
C
C
B

and down.

pivot, finding" point J.

% breast measure.

is

;^ breast measure.

in.

Square down from

F

I is

Sweep forward from

Square out from C.

C

to

as

shown

and S

to 5

in illustration

and

finish.

from 2

to 3, 3 to

and

Clerical Chaplain^

Templar Coat

I^night

In the production of the Clerical, Chaplain and

are exactly the same, while they differ in front as re-

Knight Templar coats the same diagrams are used,

Sfards buttons.

for the reason that in the production of patterns they

Measurements as Follows:
17

in.

ner as for regular frock coat.

Fashionable waist

18>1

in.

that' these

Full length

40

m.

Waist

22

in.

Seat

3/

Natural

waist

^^

^^^^

lar.

T_

All systematical points are obtained in

other

.

HI.

same.

same man-

l.iO

The only

difference

is

garments have straight front and button up

throat in military style, and have standing col-

There

is

details

no other difference
see

fashion

in drafting,

illustrations

but for

pertaining to
^
'^

Regular Capes

Clerical

and

I^night

Templar Coat

CLERICAL AND KNIGHT TEMPLAR.

and Double Breasted Coachman's Coat

Single

MeaLSuremervts

a.s

Follows.

Natural waist

17

in.

Breast

38

in.

Fashionable waist

19

in.

Waist

.34

in.

Full length for under coat

7)7

in.

Seat

.39

in.

Full length of overcoat

44

in.

To

Dracft
From 9

All systematical points are obtained in the same

manner
in

Shape

as for regular frock coat, subject to height,

measurements according

variations and

P

diagrams illustrating same.

28

to

29

is

4

27

is

is

as

33 to 22

P

collar,

1'4

shown by

solid lines.

efifect,

in.

shown

P and

illustration

from 22

to

in illustration

from 34

to 33

in

to 31

is 3J/'

is

3>4

in.
in.

Shape as shown

22 and from 32 to 31, and

for

In
3

skirt as

down

34 to P.

double-breasted frock.
to

3 in.

is

and

produced as follows
same distance as A to R and X to P.

is

2)2)

Shape

as will be seen by illustration.

From 26

to

33 to 34

For single-breasted coat note dash lines in front.
Extend a button stand from I .out to dash line of
1J4 in-, and same amount from 22 ^to dash line.
Shape as shown by dash line

For double-breasted coat follow instructions

to 12

lapel

Collar has turn

to stipulations

This single-breasted coat has a regular coat

.

all

frock coats.

in.
152

and

to 31.

other details patterns for these garments

are produced

in.

P

in

the

same manner

as

for regulation

Single

and Double Breasted Coachman' s Coat

153

Footman

Coat

s

I

/

Mea-surements as Follows;
Natural waist

17

in.

Breast

36

ni.

Fashionable waist

18^

in.

Waist

32

in.

Length

i7

in-

Seat

2)7

in.

To
All systematical points are obtained in the

manner

Dra.ft

same

Place broad flaps at side extending

variations and measurements as

shown

These

ni illustrations

extended to front, and

this

is

garment

front, as

closely on the

In

military style.
It

side

has a side edge at

edge should

lie

-/;;

the

back

fold,

and

at

in this

each corner.

There should be six buttons on each side of the

no button stand
is

shaped as indicated

flaps should be

diagram, with a button

regulating same.

While the edges meet there

down from

the front of skirt.

as for regular frock coat, subject to height,

shown

all

diagram.

other details this coat

same manner

this

in

tematical reeulations for

of the leni^th of the skirt.
154

is

as regular frock coat,
fit,

etc.

produced

in

the

subject to sys-

Footman' s Coat

lo5

Automobile Coat
To

Measures as Follows:
Waist length

To

seat

Length

18

All systematical points are obtained in the same

in.

manner

and double-breasted box overcoat,

as in single

243/2

in.

49

in.

with the exception of a
collar,

which

40

in.

Waist

36

in.

Square up from

in.

22 to 21

41

to 15

4 sizes of excess to breast, waist and seat.

4

is

and the

P

to 22.

in.

3^

is

as

in.

4

is

21.

in.

Shape as shown
and

at front,

I.

Square out from
21 to 20

taken out

same distance

is

16 to 18

V

in military effect.

is

Breast

Scat

Dra.ft

20 to

in iUustration fioni

15

13,

18.

Cut front part of pattern apart from 27 to 25 and
spread same 8

from 27

as shown,

in.,

F and

to

25 to

26.

Insert in jiattern a piece of paper 8

23 to 24 and 25 to 26 for inverted

in.

plait to

wide from

extend from

pocket down.

Above pocket add one seam

to each side only.

Coll&.r
29

to

28

is

1

in.

Shape as shown by

From P

X

to 35

is

illustration

from 28

same distance

as

A

to P.

R

to

and

to P.

Width of stand
and 35

of collar

from 33

so as to

to 31

collar as

in.

from P

to

30

shown by

illustra-

and allow one seam im upper part

make seam come on

Width of
width

1>4

to 34.

Shape upper part of
tion

is

collar

inside.

from 31

to Zl

is

4

in.,

and same

in back.

Place belt straps on back of coat and

finish.

Jiutomohile Coat

Sack Coat

Chauffeur's

Produced on the style of the Norfolk, but with
down collar and military closing at throat. In
drafting a coat of this kind, always add two sizes to
regular measures.
For example: If circumference

tration.

turn

is

38,

breast 36, waist 32, seat

2>7.

pattern

on over pattern.
In producing the collar, the distance from P to
20 is same as from A to R and X to P.
20 to 21 is 114 in.
Shape as shown in illustration from 21 to P.
Shape from 20 to P.
20 to 19 is 3 in.
P to 18 is 3 in. Shape from 21 to 20 and 19.
Shape from 19 to 18.
Shape from 18 to P.

the draft should be

34 and 39, so as to make the garment

easier.

All systematical points are obtained in the same

manner

as

in

regular

measurements are
in Variations

sack

coat.

is

For yoke and

Variations

and

allowed as shown in directions

The

and Measurements.

sides the excess,

C.

to be

that nothing

is

These straps are sewed on the goods. The
cut regular and these trimmings are laid

is

difference, be-

taken out at point

Place at side patch pockets 8

straps, as well as belt, follow illus-

flap
158

and button,

as

shown

in.

in length,

in illustration.

with

Policemen's

Blouse

16-

Mea-surements Used

Follows

a.re Ols

has a straight front and buttons to the throat

17'/

in.

23%

in.

29

in.

Breast

36

in.

in

Waist

32

in.

understood that drafting

in.

portions, but to height, variations

\\'aist

To

lengtli

seat

Length

i7

Seat
All systematical
the

same manner

waisted effect

is

points

are obtained

as for regular sack coat.

in

It

in

exactly

The

as

shown

V

is

159

subject not only to pro-

and measurements,
diagram illustrating same,

produced merely

changes from regular,

taken out in side.

is

in stipulations in

This diagram

small-

incorporated, as will be seen by

style, and has a turn down collar.
This coat should be close fitting, and no excess
It is
size is necessary in the production of same.

miHtary

to

show

the small

Policemen

Coat

s

Measures as Follows:
Natural waist

17

in.

19

Fashionable waist

in.

Fnll length

46

in.

Breast

40

in.

Waist

38

in.

41

in.

Seat

To Draft
All systematical points are obtained in the

manner

of the front, which

L

same

as for regnlar frock coat, with the exception

to

12 to 9

produced

Yi waist plus

is

29 to 12

is

is

3 in.

VY

is

in.

shown by

a \' as

Take out

^

in military style.

in.

illustration

from 12

to 9.

Square out from P.

P
to

to

26

2>4

is

in.

Shape as shown by

'

illustration

from P

illustration

from 25

I

and 26

I.

26 to 25

is

iy^

in.

29 to 27

is

314

in.

Shape as shown by

Place side edge of back as

shown

Policemen's coats are usually
collar, as

shown

If turned

POLICEMEN'S

to

to 27.

in illustration.

made with standing

in illustration.

down

nulitarv overcoat.

collar

is

desired see illustration of

Policemen's Coat

161

N o rfo
Mea-sures

a.s

I

Follows:

Waist length

17^

in.

Breast

To

23%

in.

Waist

seat

To
All systematical points are obtained in same

is

From

man-

is

4

from 9

being 2

in illustration

from 4

to 7

to

24

dotted

is

17

is

half

21

is

half

From 24

22

is

same distance

Cut patterns apart as follows

From

4 to

in.

from 18

to 19

in.

and 17

to 20,

on each side

plait; the other inch

is

then assume position shown by

will

as

is

in.

Point 23

is

I

Point 19

to 21.

is

Seams

7.

of %.

22 to 24.

plait of

2

in.

brought back to 18 and 20 to

in.

plait

on back from 18 to

must be added

7 to 4, 20 to 25, 25 to 24

From 9 to 14.
From 20 to 25.
From 25 to 24.
From 21 to 22.

to 23,

assume the position as

brought back to 21 and 24 to 22,

which creates a box

:

from 21

part, spreading

lines.

which creates a box
from

done with fore

fore part will then

shown by dotted

7.

way between 20 and 25.
way between 9 and L

to

^7

lines.

The

way between 4 and

half

box

the pattern as cut 4

Line up from 25 to 24.
18

for

The same thing

to 25.

1/6 breast measure.

is

in.

The back

and

to 14.

Line up from 20

in.

for turn under.

in.

Line up as shown

in.

32

18 to 17.

Spread pattern 4

nothing taken out at point C, and the

addition to waist

36

Dracft

ner as in regular draft for sack coat, with the exception that there

.'

Seat

.29

Full length.

k

and 9

to all parts

17,

17.

from

to 14.

Place the pockets as shown, and also

belt,

cover-

ing seam below waist, which completes illustration as

shown.

162

Norfolk Jacket

\

163

Golf Coat
L

to

O

J/ waist measure.

is

Q

Shape from

Q

P

to

O

I,

and down.

1/6 breast measure.
Rule a line from J through P.
to

is

A

Shape from

X
H

to

Y

is

to

F

is

^

1%

Rule a

line

F

is

to 2

R

to

3^

K.

to

to F, as

K

to 2

to K.

shown by dotted

Y

and shape from

X

H

Square down from

linr.

to 2.

to P.

and shape from 2

to 3,

M

to 5.

C

V

to

is

]/

Shape from

in.

A

V

to

and square down from V.

Ap])ly waist measure plus ilA

6

R

in.

Shape neckhole from

down

R

than from

in.

from B

Shape from

and

in. less

in.

from

and

3 to \^

to 4.

ions

Apply seat measure plus 2 in. on the
from J\I to D and \V to N.

Sweep back from
ing point

5,

of divis-

using point 2 as a pivot, find-

6.

Sweep forward from
ing point

%

6,

using

X

as a pivot, find-

7.

Extend a button stand, 1^4

in- at I,

in. at

1

O, and

shape front and bottom as shown, lengthening

1

in.

at point 7.

This finishes the regular draft of sack coat.

To produce

the golf or stroke coat do as follows

Place the breast pocket and the lower pocket and cut
out pattern as shown by heavy

To

of thirteen plaits of

DraLft

Square out and down from A.
to B is
breast measure plus 3

A
A
A
A

%

tern as shown.

D

is

seat length.

forepart.

to

E

is

full length.

shrunk

to

T
R

is
is

waist length.

X

to

O

is

this

will be

Also place the

back as shown.

Give a

little

box

also a
in.

dash

The back

cut without a seam and is
shown on drawing. There is
in back below belt the same width as
and is shown by the fine solid and
is

in at center as

back above

plait

belt

line.

The breast pocket has a flap to go in and
The lower pocket is a patch pocket, as shown.

in.

In

out.

laying the pattern together deduct the two

seams running down from point 2 that you would
lose on the original pattern and add seams in all
places that are lost in putting in these plaits, that you

1/6 breast measure.

The
would otherwise not lose in a regular coat.
small
plaits turn and run each way as shown by the
crosses.
They are stitched on the edge close, but not
stitched down flat, as they are intended to open out

J4 in-

Rule a line from R to S.
Square back from K finding point
Rule a line from Z to X.

at

piece

spring at bottom to correspond with spring lost in

to

to

Mark around same and

same width

C

Square out from B, C, D and E.
B to G is 3-2 breast measure plus 3
B to I is breast measure plus 2 in.
B to H is 1-. breast measure plus lYz
Square up from H.
Square up and down from G.
(j to S is 1/6 breast measure.
Square up from S.

A
T

Plait a

lines.

each and place under pat-

the piece to insert for the plaiting.
belt the

in.

to

is

in.

1

Z.

when

1/6 breast measure.
164

the stroke

is

taken.

Golf Coat

16.-)

llidlng Coat

Mea-svirements

Follows:

a.s

K

Natural waist

17

in.

From

Fashionable waist

19

in.

In producing skirt the distance

Full length

33

in.

Breast

36

in.

Waist

32

in.

Seat

37

in.

to 15

24 to

to 8

is

may

be

to 27,

in

illustration

from

24 to 17 and 17 to 27.

placed

pockets on the front part, as
to riding coat

in.

-^4

shown

from point 14

12.

Flaps

on

the

shown

sides

and patch

in illustration.

All other details in the production of this draft

areas follows:

C

skirt as

Shape from 12

in regular

1/6 breast measure.

is

1/12 seat measure plus

Shape top of

All systematical points for shoulders are obtained

manner.
Exceptions from regular frock coat

is

to 23

are

1/6 breast measure, making back wider.

identical

with regular frock, subject to height.

variations and measurements.
169

Hunting Sack

Measurements as
Waist length

17j-j

Length

23^4 ™29
in.
36
in.
in.
32
37
in.

to seat

Full length

Breast

Waist
Seat

Follo^vs;

space for ammunition and other things to
be carried in the pockets. It is cut on the principles
of the straight front sack, and has a turn down collar
and buttons to the throat in military style.
This coat is cut with a straight back and shaped
only a little at the sides. As indicated by dotted lines,
a protector is put on the shoulder so as to give more
service in wear.
The pockets are generally patch,
and finished with flaps as indicated in draft, and are
unusually large. The breast pocket is about 63^ in.
wide and about 8 in. deep the side pockets are 10 in.
wide and as deep as the length of the coat will allow.
sufficient

in.

All systematical points are obtained in the same
as for regular sack coat, subject to height,
variations and measurements, as shown in directions in
diagrams illustrating same, but in producing a coat of
this kind it is advisable to cut it 2 or 3 sizes larger
than called for by the measurements, so as to allow

manner

;

167

INDIVIDUALITY SECTION
Showing
Coats

Construction

and

and Collars

Vests^
different

the ordinary and

of

Lapels

from

which give

Personality to the Wearer,

160

IndiuLduality
Individuality to the tailor

means the process

which emphasize and bring out

No two men
from his

different

This
It

is

is

The

down

is

to

Each one has some small

same mold.

distinction

which makes him

fellow.

personality which

tailor

who

This

is

A man who

liked or disliked, a success or a failure.

has

influence for good or otherwise.

makes

artistic tailor

it

emphasize

his business to

this personality as

much

the difference between custom-made and ready-made clothing.

common

to the

makes a man

little

an

is

garment which

To

garments the different touches

personality.

as possible.

A

his

his customer's personality.

are cast in the

personality has but

little

of putting into

is

cut and

level,

made

so as to suit one

man

and takes away that attraction which

increase a man's personality

make him

to

is

as another tends to bring a

as well

man

the birthright of every man.

is

noticed and increase his chances of success.

a cutter's duty to study each customer's build, attitude, character,

and even his business,

It

to be able

produce clothes which shall harmonize with and express his personality.
Progressive cutters should cultivate individuality as well as style in the garments,

man

average

can learn system without trouble, the true Sartorial Artist

scientific part alone.

He who

can,

by the use

of graceful

lines

is

not

for,

satisfied

while any

with the

and curves, incorporate individuality

with system, and produce garments which heighten the customer's personality and are becoming to
the individual, has solved the problem, and
Individuality

may

is

in fact, as well as

is

name, an

the strongest point today for the custom tailor.

obtain the best patterns in the world and

The ready-made manufacturer

work out the most complete system

but for him to produce personal clothes for the individual customer

is

must

fit

hundreds or thousands

of

men

of

height and size to distinguish one from another.

make

all

men

While

I

for his

an impossibility.

has been graded, hundreds, and perhaps thousands of garments must be
clothes

artistic tailor.

made from

workmen,

When
it,

a model

and these

varying personality, with only the difference in the

The

result

is

that the ready-made manufacturers

look alike.

admit that

it is

possible for

them

to

sometimes produce

fitting,

and even exaggerated, gar-

ments, they can not produce individuality to the extent that their garments will express the personality of

each and every individual wearer.

The more study
result of his work.

the cutter gives to the producing of individuality and style, the better will be the

The merchant

tailoring cutter has an opportunity to display his resources because

he knows his customer's

peculiarities,

tomer, and because the cloth

For the purpose
produce

it,

made

cut and

in this section a

from these patterns.

specially

of illustrating to the student

have inserted

I

is

because he prepares a special pattern for each individual cus-

what

number

meant by

is

INDIVIDUALITY

pertaining to individual garments, as

of drafts

stated in the introduction.

INDIVIDUALITY

and how to

»

can best be expressed by variations

the style of a garment, as, an individual

in

lapel or a certain shoulder, or a particular shape of collar, or the line or curves or the corners, etc.

In the diagrams illustrating

INDIVIDUALITY,

will be well to

it

curves, also the different positions of seams, dashes, vents, etc.

INDIVIDUALITY,
pockets,

etc., all

as

is

the manipulations of patterns.

c6me within

the scope of

The

study the various lines and

Exaggeration

a valuable aid to

is

lengths of coats, placing of

different

INDIVIDUALITY.

In connection with the problem of the making of individual garments,
special study should be given the different patterns of

each customer will receive such cloth as suits his

woolens which

own

personality.

suit

it

is

very essential that

each type of man, so that

should be becoming to his

It

complexion, and the style and weave should be appropriate to his build, height, weight, age and occupation, so as to prevent, for instance, the possibility of

only

making

inches in height and weighs 225 pounds, or of

5 feet 4

a suit of Scotch plaid for a

making

man who

is

a small stripe or a fine silky mix-

ture for a six-footer weigliing 125 pounds.

While

true that the customer usually selects his

is

it

him whether

own

cloth,

it

is

the duty of the merchant

tailor

and cutter

him.

Personal experience has demonstrated that a customer will often fancy a piece of cloth which

to advise

would be utterly unsuitable
finished, see his mistake,
to familiarize yourself

Unless he

for him.

and blame the

with what

is

his selection

tailor for

is

is

right or wrong,

and whether

advised differently, he

an unbecoming garment.

is

it

the garment

will, after

Therefore,

men

appropriate and becoming to various types of

becoming to

it

is

is

advisable

in materials, as

well as in shapes and styles of garments.

In connection with the diagrams illustrating
vases,

how

to

make

a try-on,

how

to try on,

good a pattern you produce nor how much

INDIVIDUALITY,

study also the making of can-

and the tailoring part thoroughly, as

style

it

matters not

how

and individuality you incorporate in your patterns,

unless in addition to the fundamentals, proportions, variations,

height,

circumference, exaggerations,

manipulations of patterns, and lines and curves for individuality, you have enough knowledge of practical tailoring to direct

be unsatisfactory.
reasons

why

it

is

your workmen so that you can obtain what you desire.

See the article on
essential to

"How

make such

to Instruct the

If not,

Maker," and study

to

the result will

understand the

clothes as not only please the customer, but are also a credit

to yourself.

171

Double Breasted Outing Sack Coat

Measures as Follows

:

Waist length
Length to seat

l/VS

in.

23;J4 in.

30

Full length

in.

38

Breast

in.

Waist

34

in

Seat

39

in.

To

Dracft

All systematical points obtained in regular
subject

ner,

height,

to

circumference,

man-

variations,

measurements and exaggeration.

The

special

taken out
1

in

to point 9,

feature

the crease

jf
line

this

of

garment
1J4

'n.

is

the

V

from point

giving an oval shape to the crease of

apel.

Also attention

is

called to the shape of the patch

same and shape of lapel.
Extension of button stand from front line is 4
in. all the way down.
This diagram was produced from a pattern drawn
for an actual garment, material of which was white
flannel.
It was exhibited at various conventions and
pronounced a most beautiful garment.

pockets, position of

Special study should be given to the lines and

curves and

all

details of this

garment.

Coat
Double Breasted Outing Sack

173

One Button Novelty Sack Coat

^5

Measures as Follows.
Waist length

17>^

in.

Breast

36

in.

Length

23>^

in.

Waist

32

in.

29>4

in.

Seat

37

in.

to seat

Full length

To Draft
crease line and are scooped out on the outside edge.

All systematical points are obtained in the regular

manner, subject to height, circumference, variations,

Take out a

measurements and exaggerations.

Shape

The
ment

is

difference from the regulation in this gar-

H

From 4

to

Shape
S

to

as

Take out

S

is

Y^

in.

Y

is

%

in.

shown

in

illustration

illustration

from

R

to

in

S and

a

in. at

point P.

and front as shown

V

in this

in illustration.

diagram are

in side of front part, as

welt.

shown

in

and stretch lower part of same and hold

the goods at upper part of V, thereby forcing a

chesty effect into front.

to 2.

Shape

The

of 1^4

The pockets shown

as follows

From

lapel

V

as

shown

in illustration

lapels are long

from

Y

to

and have the oval

In

X.

effect

same

on

174

all

other details the garment

as regulation.

is

exactly the

One Button

J^ovelty

175

Sack Coat

Three Button Novelty Sack Coat

Mea.s\ires a-s Follows:
Waist length

l/j^

in.

Waist

a

in.

Length

2^y4

in.

Seat

i7

ill.

Full length

29

in.

E.xcess over breast

Breast

36

in.

seat

to

To
systematical points

All

are

obtained in

DraLft
Take out a

regular

circumference, variation and measurcnT°nts.

The

special feature of this

is

H

to S.

Shape shoulder of back part

as

shown

From

tion

garment

from

from

4 to

R

Y

is

;)4

in.

from

that shoul-

to

in.,

thereby obtani-

Notch of

lapel

Take out

a

is

2

is

in.

12

in.

long.

and notch of

in illustra-

V

as

V

in side

is

1>4

shown by dashes

in

and stretch lower part of
illustration,

and shrink

upper part of V, thereby producing chest
as

collar

in.

to S.

Y

gorge of Ij^

Outside edge of lapel

Yx in.

Shape shoulder of front part
tration

\^ in

ing oval effect of lapel.

manner, including exaggeration, and subject to height,

der seams are raised

2 sizes

shown

in

illus-

Shape

lapel, front

and bottom,

as

shown

in illus-

X.
tration.

From L

to

is

J/2

waist measure.

Apply regular waist measure
3 to

V

and

Re sure
plus 3j^

in.

from

to 9.
176

to study lines

and curves of

in

in the coat.

this

garment.

Three Button Movelty Sack Coat

177

Three Button Hovelty Sack Coat

Measures as Follows:
Waist length

17>2

in.

Breast

To

seat

23^

in.

Waist

Full length

29>^

in.

Seat

38
34
...2,9

in.
{„'

m.

To Draft
V

All systematical points are obtained in the regular

manner, subject

tions,

to

height,

circumference, varia-

is

(]^,(-e

stretched and upper part

is

held in so as to pro-

^^e chesty effect.

measurements and exaggeration.

The

of the lapel,

monize with the hollowed out

A V

Special attention should be given to the shapes

garment are the shape
and welt pockets (which are made to har-

special features of this

is

taken out

lapel)

in the side,

;

and curves of

lapels, front

Also note that a

front and bottom.

and lower part of

V

is

and bottom.
taken out

produces the oval effect to the crease
178

in

gorge, which

line of lapel.

Manipulation of Front for Corpulent or Stout Figure

In sack or overcoat for corpulent or stout figures
there

is

abdomen.
tion

always a surplus length of edge below the
This can be remedied as shown in

by making a cut from center of armhole down

pocket from
to

illustra-

A.

1

to 2,

and another cut

in

to

pocket from 3

Fold surplus over according to illustration at

4,

making

the opening between 2 and 3

inch subject measures

]4,

more than normal

in.

for every

at waist.

The

dotted lines at side and bottom illustrate the shape of
side

and bottom after

this

operation

is

performed.

In

cutting cloth cut as per dotted lines at side and bottom

and take out goods

in

V

from

1

to 2

and 3

to 2.

Manipulation of Sack Coat Pattern

This illustration shows
effect in shoulders

;

also

how

from a regular pattern.

how

how

to

obtain a square

fit,

and one

at

much

also

back end of pocket.
full

and meas-

little

to the

full to

slightly.

regularly

drafted

In making, stretch the shoulder a trifle

V

as

is

taken out

in

In making, hold the back a

front part at side.

Draw

in

trifle

the back a

shoulder.

This

Also, hold in the front of armhole

will

give a smooth

fitting

back and

lines

and have

chesty effect.

For double breasted note dash

pattern.

where shaded.

buttons lj4

This will produce the square effect of shoulders.
effect take out a

in illustration.

before you sew in the sleeve and hold the back

Raise shoulder seam of back 34 i"Forward
front shoulder ]/?, in. and shape as per solid line, as

For chesty

V

spring of front part as

it

urements, proceed as follows for square shoulders

the

to

shows

Besides these

After having drafted pattern according to pro-

indicate

at

Add

shown

portions, height, circumference, variations

lines

back end of pocket and another

front end of pocket, as

to obtain a double breasted front.

(lotted

at the

to obtain a chesty effect

This

ISO

farther apart at chest than at waist.

will further increase the chesty

garment.

in side for closer

in.

appearance of the

Flaring of Overcoat

This

diagram explains itself, therefore
planation would hardly be necessary.
Make a slash from the bottom 'of the

an

ex-

Spread the back

back up to
about V/> inches above the
breast line and to armhole.

1

Vz

a slash in the front part,

mches above the breast

line

and

bottom about V/, inches and

Place this pattern upon
another paper and mark
and you will have an overcoat
that spreads

off.

Make

at

the front about 2 inches.

well

extending about

at

to the armhole.

coat.
181

the

bottom without changing the
balance of the

Novelty Top Coat

Mea.sures as Follows:
Waist length

18

in.

Waist

36

in.

Full length

34

in.

Seat

41

in.

Breast

40

in.

Excess circumference

To
All

systematical

points

are obtained

in

4

sizes

Dra^ft
part and the side seam of the back part together and

regular

manner, subject to height, circumference, variations,

reduce same two seams.

measurements and eyaggeration.

The

The armhole,
special feature of this

garment

is

that

it

tom

produced without side seams.
After having drafted pattern in regular

having cut

it

out,

vv^ay

shoulder, neckhole, front and bot-

is

will present the

appearance of the dotted

Cut the front and back part

and

paste the side seam of the front

result will be a top coat
182

in

lines.

one piece and the

without side seams.

Top Coat

J\louelty

183

Single Breasted

Box Overcoat

Measures as Follows:
Waist length

18

in.

Length

24

in.

Full length

45

in.

Breast

40

in.

Waist

36

in.

41

in.

to seat

Seat

Excess

in

circumference

4

sizes

To Draft
All systematical points are obtained in the regular

manner, subject

tions,

to

height, circumference, varia-

special feature of this

efTect of lapel

garment

is

the oval

and hollowed out outside edge of same.

The dotted

lines

illustrate

the

is

attached to armhole, and

manner

in

which

its

relation to the

armhole.

The pockets

measurements and exaggeration.

The

sleeve

The

are vertical.

sides are slightly shaped.

placed in this volume especially for

This diagram
its

outlines.

Therefore, study the lines and shape of same.

is

Single Breasted

185

Box Qvercoat

Shell for

Fur Coat

Measures as Follows:
Waist length

18

24

Seat length

in.

Waist

38

in.

in.

Seat

43

in.

Full length

48

in.

Breast

42

in.

To
AH
manner

IDroLft
Add

systematical points are obtained in the regular
for

exaggerated

height, circumference

The

Six sizes of exaggeration for circumference.

difference

Make

is

box

overcoat,

subject

and measurements.

Shape

as follows:

depth of scye J4

in.

a button stand of 5 in. all the

way down

the

front.

to

collar

and

lapel

as

shown

in

illustration,

and with these few changes, including depth of scye

lower than proportions

and exaggerations, you

or measures call for.

fur coat.
186

will

have a good

shell for a

Shell for

Fur Coat

Manipulation of Overcoat Pattern

This illustration shows manner of obtaining a

flar-

ing effect at the bottom of overcoat as well as a chesty

Having produced

effect of same.

ular

proportions,

height,

a pattern

circumference,

measurements and exaggerations,

from reg-

reshape side as shown by solid
in

opening from armhole down

will give the flare at the

is

For chesty

manner, as the square

placed represents the cloth.

in

which the

make

down

pocket.

down
flare.

to

the

to the

effect to the

\'

front end of pocket as

shown

in

illustration

at side

wide enough to make up

V

taken out

in front

end of pattern.

a cut in the cloth from armhole
Plait

goods from the pocket

This will leave an opening from armhole

Lay

garment, take out a

Shape around

bottom to the extent you wish the coat

to the pocket.

bottom.

il-

for the
pattern, then

This

lay patterns on the

and make a wedge
lustration

to the pocket.

wedge

variations,

at the

cloth in regular

Insert a

line.

to

down

the regular pattern on again and

For double breasted space buttons IjX
over chest than at waist.

Remember,

in.

)'0u use

wider

an ordi-

nary pattern and these manipulations are made on the
cloth.

Manipulation of Overcoat Pattern

Two

Button Novelty Frock Coat

r
Measures as

^
Follou's:

Natural waist

17

in.

Breast

38

in.

Fashionable waist

18J^

in.

Waist

34

in.

Length

37>4

in.

Seat

39

in.

To Draft
All systematical points are obtained in the regular

manner, subject

to

height, circumference,

one being

ing

skirt,

special feature of this

same 2
garment

is

in.

length of lapel and narrow side body at the

minus

i/i

Note
front closes with 2 buttons and button holes.

diagram.

190

slashes in the skirt

in.

above.

and spreading

each slash, a flaring effect will be given.

Width of

the flar-

waist.

The

waist seam and the other 5

By making two

variations

and measurements.

The

in the

side

body

at waist is J4

waist measure

in.

lines

and curves of the different parts of

Two

Button Novelty Frock Coat

191

Novelty

One Button Frock Coat

Measures as Follows:
Natural waist

1

Fashionable waist
Full length

in.

Breast

36

in.

183^

in.

Waist

32

in.

38

in.

Seat

37

in.

7

To Draft
All systematical points are obtained in the regular

manner, subject

to

height,

Width

circumference, variations

minus

A V

and measurements.

The

special features of this

garment are the low

opening and long oval lapel with scooped out
outside edge of

^

same and pockets

at side

effect

of side body at waist

is

34 waist

measure

in.
is

taken out in front

part

to

produce a

chesty effect.

The run

on

which are

when

finished with a welt.

of the front will allow vest to be

finished.

In other details the diagram explains
X92

shown

itself.

Novelty

One Button Frock Coat

193

Three Button Alooelty Frock Coat

Measures as Follows:
Natural waist

1/

in.

Breast

38

Fashionable waist

18>4

in.

Waist

34

in

Full length

39

in.

Seat

40

in

To

Draft

.

All systematical

manner, subject

points

to height,

regular

The

circumference, variations,

!>ieasure

are obtained

measurements and exaggeration.
of this garment

is

The

in

minus

from

out as

seam

hollowed out

shown

The long

V

of 1J4

illustration.

oval lapel

in. in

is

obtained by taking out a

on

gorge.

shown

slant, also

form with

a

V

at front

in.

V

on side of front part running up

Take out
take out Yz

in

end of

flaj)

of

^j,

in.

y^

is

narrow, obtained by
Special

in.

bottom, also shape of

two Vs being taken out the front part from waist
up, as

body

attention

%

waist

should be

given to the run of the front, as well as that of the

special feature

the chesty effect produced

side

in.

flaps.

See they are hollowed

in illustration so as to

lapel.

The

conform with the

breast pocket,

placed

has the same oval shape so as to con-

lapel.

Too much study cannot be given

and

vi'hile

to

the

lines,

shapes and curves of the various parts of a garment

from waist seam.

of this kind.

191

Three Button Movelty Frock Coat

195

Double Breasted Novelty Frock Coat

Measures as Follows:
Natural waist

17

in.

Breast

38

in.

Fashionable waist

18>^

in.

Waist

34

in.

Full length

43

in.

Seat

39

in.

To Draft
All systematical points

manner, subject

to

and measurements,

The

^

The
14,

seat

obtained

in

as

shown

in system.

garment

special feature of this

which

is

^

is

the

narrow

of waist measure

illustration

U

to 17

is

obtained by using

and hollowing top of

shows

flat

braided edges and lap-

are silk faced to notch.
front closes with 2 buttons and there are

two

button holes on lapel.

Width

of lapel at bottom

top button hole

special width of skirt

skirt seam.

els

The

in.

measure from

The

regular

height, circumference, variations,

side body, the width of

minus

are

is

placed

it

is

is 2j/2

3^-2

in.

in.

and where the

wide.

Special attention should be paid to the lines and

curves of this draft.

Double Breasted Novelty Frock Coat

197

Novelty Full Dress Coat

Measures as Follows:
Natural waist

17

in.

Breast

36

in.

Fashionable waist

18 1^

in.

Waist

32

in.

Full length

41

in.

Seat

37

in.

To Draft
All systematical ])oints are obtained in the

manner

same

so as to obtain slickness in side and length in front
part, for

as for regular full dress coat, subject to height,

Side body

circumference, variations and measurements.

The
and

special feature of this

garment

is

measure minus

that front

one piece, consequently there

skirt are cut in

seam necessary

Shape
is

to join front part

and

skirt.

is

narrow, and obtained by 34 waist

-y^

in.

lapel, front

no

and front of

skirt as

shown

in

illustration.

strap or lapel seam.

In the reproduction of this kind of coat

A V

of 3

and another

V

in. is

is

also one in skirt.

Stretch

V

taken out in crease line of lapel

taken out
(

in front part at point

where shaded

would

be well to have the collar and lapels faced to the edge

10

with

See point 10).

in front part

it

silk.

Special study should be given to the lines and
at point 10

curves of this diagram.

198

J\lovelty

Full Dress Coat

199

Novelty Double Breasted }iewmarket Coat
Measures as Follows:
Natural waist

17

in.

Breast

40

in.

Fashionable waist

19

in.

Waist

36

in.

Full length

49

in.

Seat

41

in.

Excess 3 sizes over chest.

To Draft
AH
manner.

line

This draft

may

urements according

The
market

be subjected to height and meas-

and

regfular

in

O.

and front

shown by

New-

The

as follows

No seam

to

of back from

Width

of side body

lapel

V
is

to 8 is

Y\

j5/^

The
amount
line

V

is

Shape

waist measure minus

1/6 breast measure plus

li/.

front.

in.

is

M/i

26

to

slashes in

as the difference between the squared

down

slash 2

in.

obtained by applying waist measure

In

all

is

200

lapel

After

same

taken out at button stand

line

in side of front part, as

in.

wide

at chest

and

2j/2 in. at

is

2^

in.

and front

as

shown by

illustration.

front part and skirt are cut in one piece at

the

and the

V

breast measure.

The

W

W.j

waist.

inch.

to

line at

middle of back.

Width

N

See distance between squared down

illustration.

From P

%

(

Also, take out another

to system.

difference between this coat

is

L

from

systematical points are obtained in the usual

same

laying

up

regular

as per dotted lines

skirt

make four

and spread each

other details the diagram explains

itself.

Movelty Double Breasted Newmarket Coat
J

-L.

s_

201

Collars

and Lapels

Different Styles of

Makeup

of Sleeves

Collars

and
Lapels
Different Styles

of

Makeup

of Sleeves

K

203

Flaring of Skirt

The
obtain a

dotted line indicates a normal skirt front.
full flare at

balance of the
ate skirt

skirt,

(Two

good

full skirt.)

mark

oflf

to all

when

the bottom without changing the

make four

slashes in a proportion-

and spread the same as much as you wish

the bottom.

and you

To

at

inches in each slash will give a

Place this upon another paper and
will obtain the desired result.

frock coats should be treated in this
a proportionate skirt

is

204

not desired.

Skirts

manner

Vests

SHOWING NOVEL DESIGNS IN REGULAR
AND FANCY VESTS

205

Novelty Vest

The above

draft illustrates a single breasted three-button novelty vest.

Measures as Follows:
Waist length

17

in.

Opening

16

in.

Breast

36

in.

Full length

26>4

in.

Waist

i2

in.

Length

22

in.

to side

To Draft
AH

systematical points are

obtained in

Special attention should be given to placing the

regular

pockets as shown in illustration.

manner, subject to height, circumference, variations

This diagram has been specially inserted with the

and measurements.

view of showing a pattern of vest front suitable for

The

special feature of this vest

is

the shaping of

fancy material, such as brocaded velvet or novelties,

the opening, front

and bottom.
and while the edges

There

is

pockets have

only one pocket at each side and these

not

flaps.

terial

206

necessary

to

in this instance are braided,

have them

so,

provided the

it

is

ma-

would make up a good edge without braiding.

Double Breasted Vest

Measures as Follows:
Waist length

17

in.

Opening

15

in.

Breast

36

in.

Full length

26

in.

Waist

32

in.

Length

22

in.

To

Dra.ft
The buttons

All systematical points are obtained in the regular

manner, subject

to side

to height, circumference, variations

in.

apart at top and i]^

In connection with this diagram

and measurements.

illustration

The

are 7

special feature of this vest

is

It
is

is

well to note

V

close to button stand

and width of button stand.

will be

and reducing length
noted that the crease line of opening

produced with oval

lapel

it is

of manipulation of front part of double

the shaping of

breasted vest, as by cutting a
the lapels

in.

apart at bottom.

effect

tion,

and the outside edge ot

it is

at opening, as

shown

possible to obtain not only a chestv

also a closer opening without the aid of too

absolutely straight.

ing in with the stay tape.
207

in illustraefifect,

much

but

hold.

•

Single Breasted Novelty Vest

Measures as

Follo\vs:

Waist length

17

in.

Opening

g j.g^g^

36

in.

yy^jjgj.

32

in.

To

14

in.

Full length

26

in.

Length

22

in.

The

tom up

is

special feature of this vest

produced with

lar.

a turn

down

lapel

is

By

that the opening

and standing

col-

front has one pocket on each side with flaps.

A V

manner, subject to height, circumference, variations

The

to side

DraLft

All systematical points are obtained in the regular

and measurements.

".

way
to

is

taken out

in the front

part from the bot-

so as to produce a chesty effect.

careful study of this diagram and noting the

the

opening

produce

is

made

this novelty vest.

the

student will be able

Motch Collar Novelty Vest

I

t

Measures as Follows:
Waist length

17

in.

Opening

16

in.

Breast

36

in.

Full length

26>4

in.

Waist

32

in.

Length

22

in.

to side

To Draft
Flaps shaped as shown in illustration.

All systematical points are obtained in the regular

manner, subject to height,

circumference,

A V

variation

and measurement.

The
shape of

special

is

taken out

in

front part so as to give

smoothness to the waist and a chesty
feature of this

collar, front

vest

is

and bottom of front

the

effect.

artistic

Special attention should be given to the oval efpart.
fect of

opening, shape of collar, front and bottom, as

ton holes, and has one pocket on each side of front

effects

and

part.

all

This vest front closes with four buttons and but-

2oy

lines of this character

good and

artistic tailors.

should be used by

Full Dress Vest

Measures as Follows:
Waist length

17

in.

Opening

Breast

36

in.

I'\ill

Waist

32

in.

Length

All

systematical

manner, subject

to

points are
height,

obtained in

To

Dra^ft

regular

vest,

length
to side

and the

V

in front part taken out

smoothness to the waist and the chesty

circumference, variations

21

in.

26y2

in.

22

in.

which gives
effect.

Particularly note shape of opening, collar, cor-

and measurements.
ners and bottom of front part, as graceful lines of

The
trates a

special

feature of this vest

is

that

V-shaped opening, the long points

it

illus-

this

kind

may

noveltv vests.

at front of

210

be incorporated in the production of

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Cloth Cutting
While the systems published are numerous, the authors seem
of patterns there

is

another important part of tailoring,

and material has been wasted

in gaining this

viz.

:

Lay-outs and cloth cutting.

knowledge, and realizing this

volume therefore places before the student a few layouts so as

to give

ting, as well as in the placing of outlets, pockets, buttons, etc., as

this connection
collars, etc.

we have

to forget that besides the production

fact,

him a good

shown

Much

time

the author of this
start in cloth cut-

in illustrations of layouts.

In

also illustrated the necessary fittings, such as facings, flaps, facings for pockets,

Careful study of the illustrations and trials from regular patterns on cloth will be found

not only a great saving of labor, but of great practical value to the student.

213

215

Lays for Trousers

l.PiY

FOR TROUSERS

Seat, 40 in.; 32 in. inseam.
114 yards, 55

in.

Amount
wide.

of material required,

Fold, out.

LAY FOR STOUT MEN'S TROUSERS
(Back Part Reversed.)
Seat, 45 in; 32 in. inseam.

Xy^ yards, 55

in.

Amount
wide.

of material required,

Fold, out.

Lays for Vests

o

LAY FOR DOUBLE BREASTED VEST
Breast, 38

in.

Amount

of material required, Vi yard, single

width, doubled over.

Fold,

in.

LAY FOR NOTCH COLLAR VEST
Breast, 38

in.

% yard, single

Amount of material required,
width, doubled over. Fold, in.

Fittings
For Coats,
The diagrams

Vests, Trousers

necessary for Coats, Vests and Trousers, such as front

in this section illustrate the fittings

facing, pocket facing, welts, flaps,

and necessary

and Overcoats

outlets.

FITTINGS FOR OVERCOAT

FITTINGS FOR SACK COAT.

While the undercollar
details the

is

illustrated,

it

is

customary to cut

diagrams explain themselves.

218

it

from special undercollar

cloth.

In

all

other

Fittings for

Frock Coat, Vests and Trousers

BACK PART OF VEST

FRONT PART OF VEST

FRONT PART OF FROCK COAT

TROUSERS
219

PRACTICAL TAILORING SECTION
INCLUDING

How
How
How
How

to

Make

to

Try-on

a Try-on

to Instruct the
to

Make

Coats^ Vests

and Trousers

221

Maker

Practical Tailoring
There
it

is

only one kind of tailoring which can be recognized, and that

pleasant in an establishment

good

clothes

the kind that

in

money and

material, style, symmetry,

To my

fit

idea a good tailor

am aware

much an

as

is

of the fact that there

ommend. Undoubtedly you have heard
his

back when the garment

This class of tailoring

five to

money

the

the best of everything that

much

brought

it.

to

desired

is

It is

is

him

;

makes the

the kind that
is

it

the kind that creates

detrimental to the trade and

satisfied

is

garment,

ideal

not his sewing alone that pro-

I

could not possibly rec-

down

cutter feel the chills creep

argument between the customer

one hundred per cent

man who

profit to a

merchant who deals

the

The bargain-hunting customer

sharks.

comparisons he

in

may

it

sale.

ranked

be

soon find that he has paid from seventy-

will

does transient tailoring business, while the high-priced

by paying more for a

that

see

clearly

will

to

his artistic skill.

is

it

;

It

another kind of tailoring, but that

is

of

the cutter.

artist as

dealer charges only from thirty-three and one-third to forty per cent profit.
these

makes up an

he

In establishments that handle this grade of work there are always misfits for

and the producer.

among

is

asked, because

price

mind not

his

and the best possible make.

duces the smoothness, beauty and effect so
I

make up

puts on his suit to

the future for his clothes, and to willingly pay the

that he has received full value for his

makes

the kind which

by persons of good taste and wearers of

appreciated

is

new customer when he

the kind that causes a

;

go elsewhere

;

is

he

suit,

is

By showing your customer
a gainer both in a financial

and practical way.
These e.xplanations
illustrate

time

I

and explain the manner

how

am

I

First,

in

may

find necessary in order that I
in

which

I

used to

make

be clearly understood in

coats,

vests

my

and trousers, and

attempt to

at

having them made now.
cutting the patterns they should be carefull}'

be those of proportions, variations and direct measures,
tern should be incorporated

when

necessary.

The height

The

prepared.

of the subject should be given consideration so

and proportionate length,

words, the cutter should not only apply his technical knowledge and

ability,

Before laying the pattern on the

all

but also analyze his measures,

cloth, be sure that

the

cloth

isfactory from an economical as well as practical point of view.

well sharpened, so that in chalking around

is

Carefully

mark your

the proper
ticket

pockets, placing of buttons, etc.

manner and wrapped

and the cutter

is

it

up

in

fact,

in

;

circumstances.

has been properly

that the lay of the pattern conforms with the run of the grain of the cloth.

the chalk

In other

etc.

inasmuch as some of them are useless and others may have been taken incorrectly or carelessly

must be carefully prepared under

should

applied

principles

and exaggerations and manipulations of pat-

as to stipulate the exaggeration and to obtain the proper depth

patterns

same

the

223

it

Allow the regulation

pattern

Then chop

the canvas, tie

then ready for the next.

the

Be sure

out.

Notice

shrunk.

that the lay
outlets.

is

sat-

See that

you obtain good and clean

lines.

After having trimmed the suit in

up with a stay tape and attach the maker's

Hotv
Having

Make

to

stands, etc., proceed

pockets, button

Having
diagram

cut

Take out

1.

down

der point

D

point

V

Next prepare

make

of the

C

mind

Cover the edges

should

be

Measure down seven inches

Sew up

diagram

Have

2.

V

the

a cut at point E,

making

V

of

placing a

on diagram

2.

the horsehair run straight across the

and placing another piece

point, thereby

B by

illustration

in

join the

to

Insert a

taken out at point

shown

A, bear-

at point

you are readv

over edge to edge.

stitch

to edge, as

same amount

Now

with the front.

from edge

the foundation of

Place the straight edge from the shoul-

B.

one inch below the scye depth.

in illustration.

stitch

is

it.

on under side and cross

and cross

same

canvas

a cut in shoulder as illustrated by point D,

of an inch opening at angle and the

the hair cloth as indicated in

at

such as outlets,

coat,

that the canvas

slashes in the haircloth where indicated in the illustration, and

running up and down,
tion.

make

illustration at point

strip of stay linen

by making

the shoulder,

%

preparing

in

regulation,

Place point

and sew up same as shown

piece of linen on the under side

shoulder:

same

as in

and take out

opening by placing a
3-4 in. at

cannot be too careful

the straight line should always run

that

niiiiil

the

])arts

understood that the

is

well to bear in

It is

canvas according to

to center of chest.

for the average size

ing in

tailor

the

different
It

should be cut so that the threads will run straight with the front,

it

to give steadiness to the front of the coat.

garment and the

the

in

cut the canvas.

to

thoroughly shrunk before cutting and

the

marks

finished putting in the thread

On

a Try

fit

it

on the canvas

in

of haircloth, with the horsehair

shown

a spring to the shoulder, as

in

illustra-

or some thin material, and be sure that the hair-

of the haircloth with silesia,

cloth and canvas harmonize in the shoulders.
Ne.xt

in

examine diagram

order

covered with one sheet of wadding

Padding

flannel.

Do

.3.

3,

which shows the canvas

work

too thick and does not

is

not pad too close, nor take too long stitches, as one

too close

it

would make the canvas and breast too

chest,

Then pad

so well.

and

this

covered

then

with

the canvas as indicated in diagram

way would

be as bad as the other.

and would not produce fhe smooth

stiff,

having been

the haircloth

com]:)leted,

and over the

the shoulder

in

If i>adde<l

effect desired.

Therefore, do not pad too close nor pull the stitches too hard.

Next, press the canvas thoroughly into shape
the shoulder a

trifle

at the place

where the

V

;

is

stretch to the neckhole near the shoulder point.

also press the fore part of the coat into shape.

Press in the breast of the coat and press the coat over

thoroughly, and be sure the edges are inclined to be short

armhole slightly

front of scye.

at

conform with each

many

that

is

I

not

is

am

is

I

some

given no time to put

would misplace them.

in the habit

is

it

regular

more

tailors

pressing as to

is

generally torn

pockets

for

fear

to think

is

to

produce

try-on

that in

that with a cutter

who knows how

On

away from

the other hand,
the front
is

basted under for the second time, the

do not seem

a sack coat

in

or overcoat

who

difificulties

in

are
rea-

they would have

takes careless measures

of this kind would arise,

jiatterns properly, including the

way

successful by having his pockets in for try-on, because the canvas

from the canvas and nine times out of ten the cloth
is

in the

many tailoring establishments there
not make the try-on.
Still another

In

coaimaker does

While admitting

then basted under the front for good.

the canvas

in

Press

not practiced to a great extent for the reason that

of paying attention to details of the customer,

of the opinion that a careful cutter

try-on, the canvas

have the pockets put

in the pockets.

cutters are afraid of misplacing the

of placing the pockets, will be far
is

and front part are so shaped

the canvas

will say that I prefer to

of the fact that

men, consequently the

try-on

alterations that

and

am aware

cases the tailor

special

son

I

around the front and the bottom.

all

other.

Before going further
before try-on.

Be sure

Stretch

inserted in the canvas, or point D, and give a slight

part

if

are not put in before the

and the front part pressed over separate

stretched
front

the pockets

more or

part

less in different directions.

and canvas do not harmonize.

necessary that the cloth and canvas should harmonize and that
224

it

When
Many
must be

Canvas for Coat
DIAGRAM

225

1.

DIAGRAM
exactly as
to

it

was when

DIAGRAM

2.

tried on, in order to procure

be sure that the front part

canvas

patterns a cutter produces or

Therefore, for the above reasons

good before

the

garment

In starting to
carefully

it

is

Extraordinary care should be taken
a well-known fact that the canvas leads

in absolute

harmony, for

would dislocate the shoulder and throw the coat out of balance.

it

how good
for

results.

harmonize, as

Therefore, the front part and canvas must be

the cloth.

monize

and

good

mark

make

the same.

is

I

how

3.

It

if

they did not har-

would make no difference

carefully the coat has been tried on.

favor having the pockets put in and the canvas basted under

tried on.

pockets, see that they are put in the right place and of the proper size, and

Next proceed

to

mark

out the flaps to correspond with the length and width of

Cut cmt the

the pocket.

goods toward the lining and
the corners.

in

stitched, stitch the

Next baste

/7/aj».

rather snug, especially in

is

the flaps.

row before pressing

first

Having completed and pressed

wrong

Turn them

and

double

if

mark from

the flaps,

the

where the

side of the front part

Baste a strip of goods, well-stayed, to the right side of the lower part of the

Then sew through

Next examine diagram B. which shows

diagram A.

it

turn the right side of the

Next sew around

a strip of stay on the

pocket and baste the flap to the upper part.
in

around the

Stitch

their edges.

side the width desired.

Now

around.

basting the lining under the flaps see that

second row after pressing.

pockets are to be placed.

shown

all

Particular care should be exercised in this respect.

and carefully baste around

wrong

allowing sufficient for seams

flaps,

the flap as well as the

stayed strip, as

the staying of the pocket

from the wrong

a.

Di^o-D.

^
side,

where the pocket has been cut open between the two rows of

also

each side and illustrates the manner
a turn for the finish.

Then turn

Next press out

the stayed strip of

the edges of the coat.

in

stitching,

which the ends of the pockets should be cut

the

seam

of the lower part of the pocket

stitch

same

as

shown

in

in

as

you intend

upper part.

flap.

Make

to the

the pocket the desired depth.
first

diagram C.

to the

upper part,

less

the flap.

See diagram D, pocket completed.

make your

front part and press out the seam.

foregoing explanation,

to stitch

Baste a stay from the back end of the pocket up to the armhole. Stitch through the

For regulation welt pocket,
it

flap.

Face the under side of the pocket

which now appears on the lower part on diagram C, with a piece of lining and baste same
covering up the

order to obtain

and press down the

goods over and mark the semi-welt the same width

Turn and

leaving a seam on

welt properly.

In details this pocket

Mark
is

off the

width of same.

made very much

Press the pockets thoroughly and

see

that

you

like the

have

one

Sew
in the

everything

Lay
and the canvas harmonize in every detail. Then
See that your
start to baste, as indicated in diagram E, from 1 to 2, 1 to 3, 3 to 4, 4 to 2, 6 to 7 and 7 to 2.
front part is good and smooth over the canvas in the shoulder, having the canvas rather full under the front
part between 1 and 2, 1 and 3, 3 and 4, 4 and 2 and 6 and 7, and push the goods back a little from the
edge from 7 to 2, so as to give the front edge a tendency to turn in. Next turn the ends of your pocket
and tack same, and in tacking your pocket, do so with accuracy and be sure to have the same good and
The canvas is then basted under and the pocket
clean, as well as firm, so that it can withstand the strain.
Diagram F illustrates the canvas from the wrong side after it is
presents a complete appearance.
basted under the front part, as well as the pocket completed, and the stay from the pocket to the armThe diagram explains itself.
hole and front end of pocket tacked to the canvas.
Next baste your side seams together. Hold your back a trifle full to the front part just below the
armhole.
Baste together the back seam even all the way down. Turn all seams and rebaste them. Press
smooth and get ready

to baste the canvas under.

the front part over the same.

Be sure

Place the canvas right before you on the bench.

that the front part

the seams, also the front parts and turn in the edges

give the back about

^

in.

all

around.

Baste your shoulder seams together and

fullness.

Use special under collar cloth for the collar. The canvas for the collar should be cut so that it
runs with the thread in the front of collar and on the bias in the back. The collar should not be stretched
much; hardly anything on the outside, but stretch it some on the inside, so as to conform with the stand.

Then

crease it over. In basting on the collar, see that you hold it good and full near the shoulder seam
on the front part, and rather short in the gorge and even in the back.
Baste up your sleeves. Se sure that they do not twist in any way and in basting them into the armhole, see that they are properly placed and have the proper amount of fullness.
Give the whole coat a good smoothing over with the press iron. Trim off uneven outlets, canvas or
anything that does not look clean and your coat is ready for try-on.
Remember that unless the try-on
has been properly prepared, it is practically of no value, as the defects of the garment can only be traced
in a

coat that

is

properly basted.
228

Hotv
Before going into the details of

how

Try On

to

to try on,

is

advisable that in trying on a garment you do

it

many cooks

spoil the broth,"

it

is

it

handle

to

without the assistance of anybody

Most

else.

Apart from the truism

certainly acts as a detriment to the cutter in obtaining the cus-

tomer's confidence in his ability as a cutter and

completed and sent home,

how

most important and very trying ordeal.

a

is

customers have a decided objection to more than one person trying on a garment.
"that too

to the fact that be-

very essential to understand

is

it

the customer at the time of the try-on, inasmuch as the try-on
It

your attention

will first direct

I

good try-on man and draper of garments,

side being a

The

fitter.

result

that often after a

is

returned to the firm with the words, "the garment

is

garment has been

not altogether what

I

You wonder why it is sent back. You look the garment over carefully and you cannot detect
any material defects. You send word to the customer, asking him to call, so that you may slip on the
garment. The customer calls. You inspect the garment and find it to be good. In fact, as good a garexpected."

ment

as

you anticipated when you

He

questions about this or that.
say that the garment

it

to

and

fit

style

when

am

tried on,

There was someone

to direct

you

in

He

so.

asks

it

order to produce the proper

these difficulties orig-

suggestions to you as to the

style, etc.

pressing the customer with their broad experiences in the trade

But these impressions generally prove a

is

connected with the estab-

for granted that you were incapable and

personally acquainted with merchant tailors, managers and salesmen

style.

fact

else

who no doubt made some

of the garment, and the customer simply took

must have some one
I

garment was

the

The

doubt your judgment.

inated because you did not try on the garment alone.

lishment present

customer does not seem to think

on, but the

and he seems

right

all

is

tried

seems to hesitate as to whether you are telling him the truth when you

well

as

who
as

and

financial loss to the firm

I

mention

this

as

are very desirous of imas creators of

their ability
in

inasmuch

many

instances these in-

truders display rather their want of knowledge, practical experience and fitness as creators.

When

trying on a garment the cutter should under

demeanor, and by

all

means

listen to the

ligent inquiries that his sole

aim

is

to please.

customer notice that you are nervous, he

circumstances maintain a calm and collected

all

customer's requirements in a respectful manner, showing by

Overcome any semblance

will lose faith in

you

of

nervousness,

for

For

reason

a

this

if

I

would advise you

will attract his attention, a pretty picture

you are making your inspection.
here?"

picture
all

and

to select a certain place

etc.

where you can

I

By drawing

will call his attention

and

it

will

on the garment and give

the

or anything that will occupy his
to

saying,

this,

it

"How

do you

mind while
this

like

prettv

customer's attention to this attraction he will momentarily forget

He

about the try-on and his interests will be centered elsewhere.
attitude,

slip

front of the

his usual one.

This place should be so arranged that the customer will be confronted with

preliminary examination.

something which

in

customer sees himself he generally assumes an attitude different from

the

should the

for

at once.

Before slipping the basted garment on the customer contrive that he does not stand
mirror,

intel-

then be possible for you to give

the

w'ill

assume

his

regular position

garment a thorough inspection

as

well

as

draping.

garment

First, be sure the
difficulties

being

may

be traced.

Turn

is

placed in proper position, as

to the front, pin

it

together and

from want of

be sure

to

notice

this

that

one-half of the

both

sides

are

fitted alike.

Notice the length and width and hang of the sleeve.

and

is

it

rip out

your

Make

necessary markings

for

alterations

sleeve.

Place your hands under the arms of the customer, thereby ascertaining whether the armhole

deep or too shallow, or
eral defects of the

is

in a

is

too

methodical manner to inspect the gen-

garment.

Smooth your hand
bottom of scye

has the proper depth, and proceed

if it

correct.

across the shoulder and see

Then pass on

to the front
229

if

your back balance from the back of neck to the

and observe the

fit

from the shoulder.

Does the

garment balance correctly?

If

not,

unrip the collar, turn to the back, arrange a perfect balance, and

place a pin at the back of neck.

Next open

Turn

back.
tice

what

the right shoulder and pin

to the left shoulder

effect this

together so that you obtain the proper balance front and

Observe the

Next pass again

and perform the same operation.

changing of shoulder had on the waist and

tit

of the back of armhple and see that

it

is

in

hole, also

mark

mark

the same.

Next mark

the shoulder

See that any change you

is

in

such a

in

seams and neck

may make

is

properly

harmony with

Notice the position of neck point and pin the collar on to the garment

proper height, length and run.

to the

back and no-

See that you have made proper

seat.

Notice the run of the side seams and that the garment

provision for the hips.
blades.

it

hole.

fitted

over the

the curve of the back.

way

that you obtain the

Carefully inspect the arm-

harmony with

all

other points.

Then

the front of the garment.

At
inquire

if

this point

I

would

he wishes to

politely request the

make any

customer to step before the mirror and when there would

suggestions, regarding either style or

the customer, be sure that he does not lead

you on

to

make

fit.

In deciding such matters with

alterations such as

would change the balance

or spoil the garment, but at the same time defer to his opinion.
Ne.xt unpin and take off the garment.

Show

the customer courtesy by helping

him

to redress

and

in

parting bid him a friendly "good-day."

As soon

Too much

as you can find time after the customer has

care cannot be exercised in this respect.

It is

gone be sure to re-mark the different

well to

slow aspires by just degrees to reach perfection's height." and
fitting as well as stylish

garment.
230

it

remember
is

that

"Nature

in

alterations.

her productions

the smaller details that count in a well

Hoiv
Having under

the head of

"Making

"How

of Try-On," and also

to

handling the customer so that you beget confidence and respect

sity of

tempt to explain how

mind

Maker

Instruct the

to

maker of

instruct the

I

good

of the student that to obtain

between the cutter and the journeyman

deficient in

that he select such jours, to

ings, for the reason that

is

and probably also

style

do

it

his

work

his

to order chiefly

of sartorialism.

Further, the cutter should by

his help as well,

by good,

is

it

upon him the

be accepted.

On

manner, but

in a

in

the

all

tailor

and the

ideas and teachings.

may

would

is

be

say teach-

I

get

Rememthe

small

for his par-

necessarv that the cutter and tailor should
other

mechanical

for the

them

means endeavor

branches

in their respective

good

to create a

Tn giving the tailor his work,

instructed and that this

qualifications

is

feeling

among

him

luider-

let

a matter of business,

fact that unless these details are carried out to the letter the

work

will

and
not

the other hand, these instructions and rules should not be given in a hastv or impatient

way

calculated to give the proper impression and have the desired efTect.

and pinned up the shoulders, omitted

simply giving the tailor the coat, telling him to

Now,

possible

manner he had

cutters who, after they had tried on the coat

right.

Unless there

combination

reason that he

positions occupied by

for

sensible, practicable instructions.

must be executed

further impress

exist.

to obtain clothes that are suitable

In view of these facts,

style.

possessed by them as individuals, as well as

it

own

the

for

not only be friends, but should also recognize and respect each

stand that

individual garment, as well as

Let me, therefore, suggest to the cutter

in quality.

most careful manner, as well as

and up-to-date

build

ticular

a

made

at-

understanding

perfect

a

productions of this

harmony with

are are in

now make an

necessary to instruct the tailor as to particulars of each garment.

ber that your customer has his clothes
details attended to in

making of each

tailor the

will

I

the neces-

take this opportunity to impress upon the

I

end there must exist

to the

as

tailor,

journeyman

the cutter and the

unharmonious and

results in the

him,

in

good feeling between these two individuals should

to the absolute necessity that

harmony between

garment and

the

Try On," dwelt upon

this is not the

tailor

way

may do

to obtain

good

make

up

it

as

The

results.

the best he can, but the fact

is

was pinned and

it

cutter then places

out the pins,

to take

that

all

have seen

I

it

would be

all

responsibility on the

he has no conception as to the customer's

requirements for this particular garment.
I

have noted the results from such deficient handling of garments which have by no means been

satisfactory either as to

or as to style, and have seen that these lame instructions to the tailor act

fit

as a creator of

arguments between the cutter and the

alterations that

had the

tailor

made

it

the other hand, the tailor will say that he

making.

He

will

as

tailor.

was pinned,

it

made

it

as

it

cutter did not say anything further about this or that,
I

have seen some very good

argument and because the
the tailor to

cutter will say after he has had to

certainly

would have been

was pinned, but had no

add that he has done the best he could

had learned years ago.

it

The

in

he

marking

made

it

it

off,

in detail unless

right

;

definite instructions as to the

but

tailors quit their positions

in

view of the fact that the

on account of

It is

this

kind of

unreasonable to expect

he has been instructed for each particular garment.
231

while, on

according to the regulation that he

cutter has not been careful in his instructions.

know everything

all

make

shoiiW unpin

will say right here that the cutter

I

attends to these details, the tailor

fact, unless the cutter

displayed by him, and the truth

is

tions such as shoulders, armholes,

carefully,

etc.,

the

carefully

alterations

in

;

impressed with the lack of knowledge

he

will

and capable cutter always marks

that the careful, practical
fronts,

mark

i^arment,

the

altera-

his

where changes may be needed, and makes notes

of details as well.

Then, again,

throw
the
to

intd his

it

garment

I

have seen the cutter

who

usual corner and probably

hands the bundle

out, he simply

made

has

let

etc.. tie

up the garment

When

week or two.

there for a

lie

it

markings,

his

he

in a bundle,

ready to give

is

any further instructions than to

to the tailor without

him

tell

have the garment completed by a certain time.
This

is

also

wrong

him make the garment,

I

showing him

alteration,

my

in

In place of simply giving the tailor the bundle and telling

estimation.

would untie the bundle and with the

why

an intelligent manner the reasons

in

tailor
I

would go over every

I

had made these

of

detail

alterations.

I

would

inform him of the customer's disproportions and attitude and give him comprehensive instructions as to
the style of the particular garment.

would give the

The

and the

collar

lapels

tailor a special pattern to follow in this

the collar required,

how

hang

to

the sleeves.

ward or backward and give reasons

would

I

therefor.

should

respect.

"Move

to

it

that the collar

the back

is

him whether they should hang normal,

instruct

give reasons therefor.

or

why you do

down

this is

state reason for

do

I

"Mr

move

the back

Jones stoops quite a

down

bit

so or so much," and

much and add

so and so

much

to

"See about and crook the shoulder so or so much," and

this or that for creating this or that effect.

same, so and so

for-

brought forward so and so much."

are

"Further, take out the front of armhole so and so

Further,

so.

sleeves

as to avoid this or that, or

the width of back," and give reasons therefor.
state

I

For example, "This customer stands erect and requires a

not too long and that the

up so and so much

delineated.

would inform him about the length of

I

longer collar, and have the sleeve hang backward to this or that extent," or

and see

thoroughly

be

also

much

fullness

is

moving your

In

up

collar

necessary there or there, and give reasons

why

done, or do this or that so as to create a square shoulder effect, or do this or that so as to obtain

the oval lapel.

Further follow

this

here

line

familiarize your tailors with

(indicating)

stipulated.

Then

Tell

state

him

having told him of
geniality

all

that the

every
it

to

detail.

If

you think the

your measure

ticket

garment must be well made,

it

tailor is forgetful write

and impress upon

finished,

your time when the garment must be completed and

necessary that he shall have

at the

in

the directions on an extra slip of paper, pin

to forget anything.

In fact,

the details necessary in order to obtain a well balanced, fitting and stylish

all

garment, and be sure that they understand you

down

for your front, place your buttons so or so.

let

his

mind not

and have the

style

him understand

that

completed and brought to you for an examination by that time.

these details give

him

a

few cheerful words, something that

and sympathy, and bid him good-bye.

same time you must handle them

Remember

that

you must be friendly

so that they will respect you.

232

will display

to

your

you
it

is

After

your contailors

and

Coat Making
tions

Upon getting the coat back from try-on the tailor should thoroughly examine the details of instrucreceived from the cutter, smooth out the various parts of the garment and proceed to put in new

threadmarks where alterations have been marked.

In sewing up the seams, instructions as to fullness,

etc.,

Having sewed up the side seams and padded your lapels, press the front
into shape and re-mark the front as previously marked by the cutter. Lay on the lapel pattern given you
by the cutter and mark around it carefully, then cut away all unnecessary material.
Trim away your
canvas 34 in- from the edges. Next fit out your facing and lining. Sew on the lining to the facing and
put in your inside breast pocket.
Having completed the linings, baste on stay tape around the front.
Be sure that you hold it sufficiently short, but not too much, as one way is as bad as the other. After
should be followed to the

letter.

down

the stay tape on both sides, press over the fronts thoroughly. Also press the facing,
and lining and have the facing and lining so arranged that it harmonizes with the
front part.
Next lay the lining on the bench wrong side down. Lay the front part above same with
the right side to the lining and baste as indicated in diagram G. See that you have the facing sufficiently

having

felled

inside breast pocket

Baste so that the lower corner will turn inward, and in basting around the lapel
sufficient fullness on the facing side.
Then press from facing side, so that it will be

long, but not too long.

be sure that there

smooth.

Mark

is

with the chalk the front edge where you are to sew.

Next sew around the edge where

marked.

seam of edge thoroughly; trim seam down to yi in. on each side. Then turn
down. In basting down be sure to hold the seam even in the middle of the edge,
so that in stitching you are sure to catch both sides.
See edge as illustrated in diagram H.
Next,
provide for sufficient fullness of lapel.
Attach your inside breast pocket to canvas.
Baste from the
wrong side of the lining where the lining is sewed to the facing, and attach this seam to the canvas.
Next baste the lining under in such a way that it will have sufficient length and width. Sew the seam in
the middle of the back and press seam out. Turn up the bottom and stitch the first row of stitching
around the edge then press edge thoroughly before stitching the second row. Having finished stitching the
edges, take out the basting around them and press the edge thoroughly. Baste in the back lining and be
sure it is long enough, but not too long, and allow a pleat in center seam. Should the lining be shorter or
even in length with the goods, you will find there will be wrinkles on the outside therefore, the lining
should average Y^ inch in excess of the outside goods. Having completed the basting under of the lining
and turning in at the side seams, turn up the bottom of the lining in such a way that you can fell it Yz in.
beneath the turn. Diagram I illustrates the way a garment should look after the lining has been basted

Next

press out the

the edge and baste

it

;

;

under and the extra length required

are of the proper length, as a small button hole looks bad, and besides

more

quickly.

They should not be too

much

Now make

comparison with the outside goods.

in

the bottonholes by noting that they are in the proper place, and in cutting

large, but they should be

it

is

preparation

for

them be particular that they
hard to button and wears out

sufficiently

large to

permit

being

of

and wrinkles around them when
buttoned.
In making buttonholes the tailor should exercise a great deal of care so as to make them
soft and even.
There are many good tailors who are not able to make good buttonholes. I have seen
beautifully made garments spoiled by poor buttonholes, and I must say that good buttonhole makers are
rare.
The general fault in buttonholes seems to be that the makers put in too many stitches. It seems as
if they were anxious to show the amount of work they had done on them.
The fact is that when the
stitches are too close it makes the buttonhole hard, and in consequence it wears out much sooner.
If it
in
with
the
right
kind
had been worked with a moderate number of stitches
the proper direction and
of
silk, an even looking buttonhole would have been produced and the softness given so essential for wear.
The secret of a good buttonhole cannot be explained in writing or by illustration it must be explained
and demonstrated in actual practice.
buttoned without too

effort,

and

this will also eliminate the fullness

;

Having completed
together.

This

is

the buttonholes in the best possible manner, re-mark the shoulders and baste

a very particular part of the

work because

it

must be done exactly according

directions given by the cutter so as to correspond with the alterations

of the making

it

may

made

be well to take into consideration a second try-on.

in the try-on.

While

I

At

them

to the

this stage

personally seldom have

you have any doubt as to the fitting
would advise a second try-on to avoid busheling. Therefore, after having
basted the shoulders together and basted the seams over, arrange the canvas, lining, etc., so they are
smooth and even in the shoulder re-mark the line where it should be basted to the collar press collar
into shape and baste it on.
If I intended to have a second try-on I would baste in the sleeve as a reassurance that I had the right length and width in every particular. In preparing for a second try-on, I would
a second try-on,

I

will say to the students of Practical Tailoring, if

points and balance of a garment,

I

;

pull out as

many

press the edges

;

basting threads as are not absolutely necessary to hold the garment together.

all

around, smooth the lining and trim out any excess there might be

in

I

would

armholes,

etc.,

and show up the garment in the best possible shape. See diagram J.
In trying on the garment the second time I would carefully inspect every detail in the same manner
as in the first try-on, and if necessary I would redrape the shoulders.
While a second try-on would

would show that he was careful, and
a garment has been tried on twice at
the proper times, and properly handled, there should seldom be any occasion for busheling after completion.
After receiving the garment back from the second try-on and having received proper instructions from the cutter, 'promptly note alterations, if any.
Then again baste the shoulder together with
the same care so that you have the fullness in the proper place according to the cutter's directions, and
sew the shoulder seam by hand a machine-sewed shoulder is never so satisfactory as a hand-sewed one,
for the reason that the machine will stretch some and displace the fullness of the back.
A hand-sewed
shoulder will hold the seam short, as well as enable you to have the fullness properly placed. All good
tailors sew the shoulder seam by haiiil.
Next, press the seams out, and prepare to rearrange the canvas
indicate inexperience on the part of the cutter, at the

same time

often a second try-on saves a great deal of busheling.

—

2.34

In fact,

it

if

In doing this be sure the canvas

in the shoulder.

is

sufficiently

long and wide and that

it

will

harmonize

same manner. Be sure to notice that
with the cloth in every respect. Next
in
way.
Baste around the neckhole close to
any
neither canvas nor lining interferes with the outside goods
neckhole
a thorough pressing; also
Give the shoulder and
the line where the collar is to be attached.
then
re-mark line to which
neckhole;
re-press crease line of under collar into shape; test shape of same to
arrange the lining

collar

is

in

the

to be basted.

In basting on collar

I

would

start at the back, basting

toward the front of the

left side

of the coat,

giving Ss inch fulness to the collar on the front part from the shoulder seam to the crease line, and hold
If the left side is satisfactory,
the collar slightly short to the lapel from the crease line to the gorge.

back of the neck and baste the collar to the right side, leaving the same amount of fulness, etc.,
Next, fell the collar down neatly also fell the inside edge to the collar take out the
bastings and arrange collar and lapel on the pressing block in a way to give them a thorough shaping
and pressing with the iron. Next mark off the width, etc., of the collar according to the pattern furnished
start at the

as on the left side.

;

;

by the cutter or the prevailing style. See diagram J.
In putting on the top. collar be sure that it has been shaped so as to conform with the under
basting

on notice that

it

it

fits

the crease,

and

that there

DIAG.
front end.

under

Be

positive that

you have a turn of

is

a certain

amount of

In

collar.

fulness, especially at the

I.

Y\ inch.

collar to that of the turn of the top collar, stitch

After
the

having

first

felled

the

outside

row before pressing.

edge of the

Also press the

crease of the collar and then stitch the second row.

In

average

making

conform with the armhole an
armhole measures 18 inches,
comparison with the arm scye. In

the sleeves, see that they are of the proper width so as to

fulness

of

2^4

inches

should

be

allowed.

For example:

;

If the

inches, and be larger or smaller in
marking them off be sure they are of the proper width at the bottom, as well as over the elbow. Prepare and produce the cuff desired, and in seaming up the sleeve be sure it does not twist in any way. Also
Having finished them acbe sure that the sleeve lining conforms with the sleeve before seaming up.
cording to regulations and instructions from the cutter, give the sleeves a thorough pressing oflf. Next
carefully inspect the top of the sleeve, trim off any unevenness, if any, and give the sleeve lining ^
excess at the top as allowance for turn, which turn should also be basted down before fitting the sleeve
Having properly finished the sleeve, re-mark the armhole and draw in the back of
to the armhole.
with
linen thread; also draw in the front of scye a little with linen thread before basting
the armhole

the sleeve should measure 20-;4

in the sleeve.
235

See
In basting the sleeve to the armhole, start with the right sleeve at the front of the armhole.
sleeve
the
inch
fulness
to
the
under
at
giving
about
back,
that the notches meet and baste toward the
}i
armhole.
Hold
it
around
tight
the
easy
be
held
to
At no place should the sleeve
back of the armhole.
and give about lyi inch fulness from about 2^ inches to the front of the shoulder
seams and down the front of scye. Now, if the right sleeve hangs properly, baste in the left sleeve
Press out the seam and place a little wadding in the
in the same manner, and seam them in by hand.

the shoulder seams

shoulder and
the shoulder.

let

it

run

That

is

down

It

also well to leave the

is

seam loose

at the top of

canvas from the shoulder seam to about 3 inches
Finish armhole by felling the sleeve lining in carefully, and the coat is then

above the front of scye.
ready to press

a bit in the sleeve.

to say, do not fasten

it

to the

off.

In pressing off

I

have found

it

a

good way

to start

then the edges and linings, leaving the collar and lapels

DIAG.

with the shoulders, next the body of the coat,
Be sure the coat is thoroughly
to the last.

J.

%

and sponged, and in sewing on the buttons have them sewed on so they have a neck of
Before bringing the garment in for the cutter's examination, give it a good preliminary ininch.
spection.
First:
See that the sleeves balance and have the proper fulness, and that the collar and
lapels have the proper shape according to the style.
Second: -View the sleeves from the back and
see that they fall gracefully, and also notice the general appearance of the back.
Third: View the
shape of the collar by holding the coat up by the shoulders with both hands. Fourth
Inspect the lining.
See that it is of sufficient length and width also see that the felling and sewing have been properly

pressed

—

—

:

—

—

;

Fifth

executed.

:

—Take

the coat by the back of the collar with the left

of the lapel with the right
inspect the pockets

garment

is

hand and be sure the

and other

details.

collar

is

Ascertain whether everything

finished.
236

hand and hold the lower end

of the right length and proper shape.
is

in

proper order, and

if

Also
so the

Making

Vest
After having marked

points where the pockets

all

proceed to cut inter-lining for vest.

Also insert a

in the interlining.

V

Take out

^

are to be placed,

well

as

Next proceed

of 3^ inch in shoulder of same.

Next give the front parts a thorough press

interlining.

pressing in the edges

put on properly by holding

down and
baste
a

down

pressed
edge.

it

Tack

it

is

hole, see that

Pull out
first

is

all

Stitch

first

row of edge before pressing, then

done

in a

Next

erly basted them,

sew

in

also

felled

is

same

felling

it

down

stitch

Turn

second row.

in as

inside breast pocket, baste

to the

much

under

as

lining.

facings of front as well as in arm-

Finish up back by

if

them

straps are used place

in

proper position.

inside

Join

and outside

place both front parts between the inside and outside back, and after having propside

Fell

the most careful manner,
ofif

trifle,

neat manner.

seam back of armhole and shoulder.

parts through the only opening, the neckhole.

Mark

Having

unnecessary bastings and give front part a thorough press over.

back at bottom.

lining.

and

after having finished buttonholes

sewing middle seam, and

to strap at collar.

Stretch the shoulders a

thoroughly, seam on facing, press out the seams and trim them and turn over and

long and wide enough, and
it

and

the pockets through

moderately short around opening, front and bottom.

it

seam around armhole and

Be sure

over.

to put in pockets

In putting on stay tape, be sure same

around opening, front and bottom.

all

stand,

inch in armhole, and also 3^ inch at bottom of front

press the front parts thoroughly into shape and baste under the interlining.
the

button

the

as

vest by pulling out both front

After having turned vest and smoothed

back down neatly and
first

Next turn

it

is

ready for press

ofif.

The

press

by pressing over the front parts, then sponging, and

the places of buttons,

vest a thorough examination and be sure

sew them
it

on, and,

if

out,

fit

the back

should be done

finally

in

smoothing the

buckle straps, sew on buckle.

has been properly completed.

237

ofif

it

Then give

T r o use r Making
A

good hanging pair of trousers can be procured only from

thoroughly the shaping of a pair of trousers.
so experienced a tailor as coat making,

sitate

A

curve of front.

Put pockets

Stretch the

stitched.

band

twist

well

as

as

in

any way.

in

button

placed,

give the waistband and

bottom

and place them

and
flys

that

so

Next

tom.

the

fly

ment, and

in

the turnup

down

do

ofif

flys,

a

all

around.

thorough

it

over
that

all

is

in

the

all

short

shrink

the

way down and

in

cloth protector

the proper places

properly placed and smooth
;

also

when

take

felled

4

in.

at

shrink in

In joining the
all

crease

front

at

seam

to

is

at

be

at the

crotch.

from knee up.
instep

two parts together

near bot-

sec that they

circumstances be sewed by hand.

Be sure they are up

make

it

to

measure-

firmer at the bottom.

Fell

long to the bottom of the back part.

on waistband and

down.

fly

seams so they meet

the

back part

well to soap the crease so as to
a

In joining the

where buttonhole

the back of outside

to

from the crotch down.

of trousers

and sew on buttons
is

trifle

Stretch the back part at knee

Next arrange

2 inches

to

side

The back seam should under

manner and sew

In pressing

out creases before turning.

Next be sure

fly.

ofif

the

the trousers be sure

Press the bottom thor-

After having turned them, give the top of the trousers, including the pockets and
press

off.

Next

bottom, and see that inside seam

and both legs

Be sure

is

properly placed.

is

shaping from the wrong side

all

oughly

a neat

in

lining at top part
to

inside length

turning the bottom

mark

Carefully

the

ofT

seam

inside

measure correctly around the waist.

Next measure

to handle the

the seams and finished placing the canvas in waist

a thorough press over.

Crease front

buttonhole

that

see

a jewel

and that the trousers balance properly

and turned over the

lined

Press the trouser legs into proper shape.

Press calf into proper shape.

is

as follows

Stretch inside edge from knee up.

Having pressed out

fiy,

good trouser maker

below. Hold the front part a

in.

front part to the back part be sure the notches meet at the knee

and do not

making does not neces-

making are

points in trouser

side near the bottom.

on outside edge.

calf

in

that a

careful and understands

both front and back parts, and be sure they are properly placed and

in

front part slightly on each

on outside edge and press

be true that trouser

held in 34 inch from crotch to 5

is

is

good trouser maker must know how

The most important

press iron and produce proper shape.

See that the front part

may

it

must be understood

it

merchant tailoring house, as they are scarce.

to a

in

While

who

a tailor

the

is

lay

2

in.

the

trousers so that the inside and outside seams meet at the

toward the back of outside seam

same manner and take out crease

around bottom.

at crotch.

Press both sides

Having thoroughly pressed

parts of the trousers, re-measure the length of inside seam, as well as waist, so as to be satisfied

you have the correct measures, and

finish.

zae

19Cy

i