Текст
                    Spring is here, so it’s time to indulge yourself with beautiful stitches
knitted in delicate yarns. Find Elly Doyle’s beautiful jumper in
Baa Ram Ewe Titus yarn on p38, and Mary Henderson’s pretty cable
and lace top on 64. We have a modern colourwork sweater for men
on p46, plus we explore new yarns from our favourite brands.
www.gathered.how/theknitter
TheKnitterMag
TheKnitterMag
TheKnitterMag
ravelry.com/groups/the-knitter
Issue 149


8 SARAH HATTON Dinah Contemporary drop-sleeve jumper decorated with lace 26 SIÂN BROWN Chichester V-neck cardigan with lace & Irish moss stitch textures 38 ELLY DOYLE Fairy Flax Long jumper with waist shaping and lacy details 46 PAT MENCHINI Piedmont Stranded colourwork sweater for men 51 MARTIN STOREY Ashmore Beaded lace cardigan 58 JULIET BERNARD Fire Dance Long brioche stitch cowl 60 SIÂN BROWN Ptarmigan Tweedy cabled cushion 64 MARY HENDERSON Malhamdale Lace & cable colourblock top 69 JODY LONG Shea Sheep Children’s intarsia cardigan 73 DROPS DESIGN Blue Flake Two-colour brioche hat PLUS BRONAGH MISKELLY Annecy Shawl Lace shawl with floral panel Patterns 46 69 60 8 73 The Knitter 04 Issue 149 Create • Knit •Enjoy
Good reads 14 THE KNITTER LOVES News and diary dates 44 THE FIBERISTS Meet the hand-dyeing duo 55 BRIOCHE FOCUS We talk with top designers about this exciting technique 76 MUSEUM PIECES Queen Alexandra’s doll dress 90 NORFOLK YARN Inside the Norwich shop Expertise 32 YARN REVIEWS We test the latest yarns 34 BOOK REVIEWS Our favourite knitting books 78 MASTERCLASS Discover how to add knitted-on edgings 80 MASTERCLASS ARCHIVE At-a-glance reference guide 89 INFORMATION Abbreviations & errata Plus... 24 SUBSCRIBE UK Subscribe now and choose your KnitPro needle set! 85 NEXT MONTH A sneak peek at what’s inside Issue 150 86 BACK ISSUES How to access the patterns in The Knitter’s archives 88 SUBSCRIBE OVERSEAS International subscribers save up to 70% Don’t miss an issue! Make sure you receive every issue of The Knitter – delivered direct to your door. TURN TO PAGE 24 FOR GREAT SUBSCRIPTION OFFERS Subscribe digitally at www.gathered.how/theknitter 26 58 64 38 36 51 90 The Knitter 05 Issue 149 Contents
EDITORIAL Commissioning Editor Kirstie McLeod Operations Editor Helen Spedding Art Editors Sarah Clark, Jude Curle Technical Editor Faye Perriam-Reed Acting Technical Editor Jen Bartlett Digital Assistant Sarah Winsper Photography Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild, Dave Caudery, Adam Gasson CONTRIBUTORS Juliet Bernard, Siân Brown, Elly Doyle, Rhian Drinkwater, Colette E a rley, Charlotte Foster-Brow n, Thel ma G erm an, Tricia Gilbert, Sarah Hatton, Penelope Hemingway, Mary Hend erson, Ca rol Ibbetson, Sophie Jord a n, Ashley Knowlton, Jen nifer May, Pat Menchini, Bronagh Miskelly, Rosee Woodland ADVERTISING 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Pen ny Stokes UK & Inter national Busine ss Manager Rachael Hawkins MARKETING & SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions Marketing Executive Kate Jone s CIRCULATION Newstrade Marketing Manager Ja ni ne Smith PRODUCTION Production Coordinator Lauren Morris Production Manager Louisa Molter/Rose Griffiths Production Director S ar ah Powell LICENSING Director of Licensing & Syndication Tim Hudson PUBLISHING Managing Director, Craft Kerry Lawrence Managing Director, Bristol Andy Marshall Chief ExecutiveOfficer Tom Bureau SUBSCRIPTIONS Phone: 03330 162 151 Email: theknitter@buysubscriptions.com Subscribe online: buysubscriptions.com/craft GET IN TOUCH Immediate Media Company Ltd, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST United Kingdom Phone: 01 17 927 9009 Email: theknitter@immediate.co.uk Next issue on sale Thursday 30 April Delicate lace and sophisticated cables decorate the jumpers, cardigans and shawl in our latest issue. Styles include Sarah Hatton’s contemporary lace jumper, an ethereal tunic from Elly Doyle, and a richly textured top by Mary Henderson. We explore the beauty of brioche stitch, too, with patterns for a two-colour cowl and hat, and interviews with brioche designers Stephen West and Nancy Marchant. Elegant stitches Our featured designers Spring styles Sweaters, cardigans & accessories in lightweight yarns HAPPY KNITTING! from The Knitter team Sarah Hatton Sarah honed her skills as part of Rowan’s in-house design team, and since becoming an independent designer her work has appeared in top knitting magazines and in her own range of pattern books. Turn to page 8 to find Sarah’s lacy jumper with a contemporary style. Elly Doyle Based on Orkney, Elly is a designer, sample maker and technical editor. She has a talent for creating beautiful textures, and her work often blends contemporary and vintage styles. Her latest design for us is a feminine tunic with lacy details. Find Elly’s pattern on page 38. Siân Brown Since studying for a degree in fashion, Siân has had a successful career designing for knitting magazines, yarn brands and high street stores, as well as teaching at the London College of Fashion. We have a pretty cardigan from Siân on page 26, and a rustic textured cushion on page 60. Immediat e M edia Company Brist ol Limited (comp any number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered offi ce of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as w e are aware, cor rect at the time of going to press. Imm ediate Media Company Brist ol Limited c annot accept any respo nsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such info rm ation. Read er s are ad vised to cont act manufact urers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, please visit immediate.co.uk, email editorialcomplaints@ immediate.co .uk or write to Kerry Lawrence, The Knitter, Immediate Media Co. Ltd, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST, UK PRINTED IN THE UK by William Gibbons. Distributed by Frontline The Knitter 06 Issue 149
Cape Bay by Martin Storey | Softyak DK The Art Of Knitting ROWAN
SARAH HATTON Dinah With its wide shape, cropped sleeves and elegant lace, this top is a lovely mix of modern and vintage styles The Knitter Issue 149
The deep lace section around the body features a pretty stitch pattern Dinah
SARAH HATTON Dinah BACK Using 3.25mm needles and the long-tail method, cast on 103 (121:139:157:175:193) sts. Row 1 (RS): K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Row2(WS):*P1,K1;repfrom*tolastst,P1. These 2 rows set rib. Work8rowsmorein ribasset. Change to 4mm needles. Beg with a RS (knit) row, work 12 (14:16:18:20:22) rows in st st. Next row: K2, KFB, knit to last 4 sts, KFB, K3. 2 sts inc’d. This row sets increases. Inc as set on 3 foll 18th rows. 111 (129:147:165:183:201) sts. Cont without shaping until work meas 34 (35:36:37:38:39) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. SET CHART PATTERN Next row: Work as set on row 1 of chart, working 18-st rep 5 (6:7:8:9:10) times. This row sets chart placement. ** Working 32-row patt rep throughout, cont until Back meas 50 (52:54:56:58:60) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. SHAPE SHOULDERS Cast off 5 (6:7:9:10:12) sts at beg of next 12 (6:2:8:4:10) rows. 51 (93:133:93:143 :81) sts. Cast off 0 (7:8:10:11:13) sts at beg of next 0 (6:10:4:8:2) rows. Leave rem 51 (51:53:53:55:55) sts on a holder. FRONT Work as given for Back to **. 111 (129:147:165:183 :201) sts. Working 32-row patt rep throughout, cont until Front meas 6 rows less than Back to shoulder, ending after a WS row. Work should meas 48 (50:52:54:56:58)cm from cast-on edge. SHAPE LEFT FRONT NECK Next row (RS): P at t 36 (45:53:62:70:79), K2tog, turn and leave rem 73 (82:92:101: 111:120) sts on a holder. Dec1 st at neckedge of next5 rows. 32 (41:49:58:66:75) sts. Next row: Cast off 5 (6:7:9:10:12) sts, patt to last 2 sts, K2tog. 26 (34:41:48:55:62) sts. Next row: P2tog, patt to end. 25 (33:40:47:54:61) sts. Cast off 5 (6:8:9:10:12) sts at beg of next and 3 (1:3:2:0:3) foll RS rows. 5 (21:8:20:44:13) sts. Work 1 row straight. Sizes 12-14, 20-22, and 24-26 only Cast off - (7:-:10:11:-) sts at beg of next and - (1:-:0:2:-) foll RS rows. Work 1 row straight. All sizes Cast off rem 5 (7:8:10:11:13) sts. SHAPE RIGHT FRONT NECK With RS facing, leave 35 (35:37:37:39:39) sts on a holder, rejoin yarn to rem sts, Sl 1, K1, psso, patt to end. Dec1 st at neckedge of next6rows. 31 (40:48:57:65:74) sts. Next row (WS): Cast off 5 (6:7:9:10:12) sts, patt to last 2 sts, P2tog tbl. 25 (33:40:47:54:61) sts. Cast off 5 (6:8:9:10:12) sts at beg of next and 3 (1:3:2:0:3) foll WS rows. 5 (21:8:20:44:13) sts. Work 1 row. Sizes 12-14, 20-22, and 24-26 only Cast off - (7:-:10:11:-) sts at beg of next and - (1:-:0:2:-) foll WS rows. Work 1 row straight. DESIGNED TO be worn with lots of positive ease, this drop-sleeved top by Sarah Hatton has a contemporary shape. It’s adorned with a beautiful lace stitch across the upper body. The sleeves are cropped, and the neckband is worked in rib then finished with a rolled stocking stitch edge. It’s knitted in Bo Peep DK, a blend of Falkland Islands wool and nylon from West Yorkshire Spinners. This comes in a choice of more than 30 solid and speckled shades. SIZE TO FIT BUST 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22 24-26 28-30 81-86 92-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 132-137 cm 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 52-54 in ACTUAL BUST 101 117 133 150 166 183 cm 393⁄4 461⁄4 521⁄2 59 651⁄2 72 in ACTUAL LENGTH 54 56 58 60 62 64 cm 21 22 223⁄4 231⁄2 241⁄2 251⁄4 in SLEEVE SEAM 27 27 27 27 27 27 cm 101⁄2 101⁄2 101⁄2 101⁄2 101⁄2 101⁄2 in YARN West Yorkshire Spinners Bo Peep DK (DK weight; 52% Falkland wool, 48% nylon; 112m/122yds per 50g ball) PIXIE (326) 8 9 10 12 13 15 x50g BALLS The Knitter 10 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
All sizes Cast off rem 5 (7:8:10 :11:13) sts. Joi n shoulder seams. Place markers 17 (18:19:20:21:22) cm down from each shoulder seam. SLEEVES (both alike) With RS facing, using 3.25mm needles, pick up and knit 75 (79:85:89:93:97) sts evenly between markers. Change to 4mm needles. Beg with a WS (purl) row, work 5 rows in st st. Dec row (RS): K2, Sl 1, K1, psso, knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. 2 sts dec’d. This row sets sleeve shaping. Dec1stassetateachendof8thand4foll 8th rows, then on 3 foll 6th rows. 57 (61:67:71:75:79) sts. Work 4 rows straight. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg with a 2nd row, work 7 rows in rib as set on Back. Cast off in rib. MAKING UP NECKBAND With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needles, pickupandknit15stsdownleft side of neck, 35 (35:37:37:39:39) sts from holder at front neck, 15 sts up right side of neck and knit across 51 (51:53:53:55:55) sts from back neck holder. 116 (116:120:120:124:124) sts. Pm for beg of round. Work7rndsin1x1 rib. Work 5 rnds in st st (knit every rnd). Cast off loosely. FINISHING Join side and sleeve seams. Block garment gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 60cm long 1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles Stitch holders TENSION 22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over st st on 4mm needles YARN STOCKISTS West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com For general abbreviations, see p89 KEY KonRS;PonWS PonRS;KonWS K2tog Skpo Sk2po Ktbl Yo Repeat Dinah The Knitter 11 Issue 149
THIS MODERN DROP-SLEEVE TOP IS DESIGNED TO BE WORN WITH LOTS OF POSITIVE EASE Dinah
MAGIC OF INDIA Craft holiday specialist Stitchtopia is to begin running knitting and crochet tours in India. Starting in February 2021, the tour promises to be a memorable experience, taking in the sights of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Stitchtopia is working closely with KnitPro to develop the itinerary for this cultural tour. As well as visiting the Taj Mahal, the Amber Fort, and the Keoladeo National Park, guests can visit Delhi’s national craft museum, and enjoy the Surajkund Crafts Mela, while designer Carol Meldrum will be teaching workshops. There will also be trips to see some of the community initiatives supported by KnitPro, plus a tour of its needle factory. www.arenatravel.com/craft-holidays 0333 920 8246 ...ideas, websites, patterns, events, inspiration and more! ,QUDLQERZêThe new fade packs of Rowan Felted Tweed and Kidsilk Haze come in colours curated by Lisa Richardson www.knitrowan.com 01484 668200 STITCHKEEPERS Designed to prevent stitches from slipping off your double-pointed needles, StitchKeepers by Rollie are nifty little caps which fit over the end of your needles. They’re joined by an elastic band which keeps them snugly in place, and are available in a range of sizes to fit needles from 2mm to 5.5mm, and lengths of 10-25cm. www.stitchkeepers.com Blacker Yarns has added more shades to its 5-ply Romney Guernsey range, so knitters can now choose from a palette of blues, greys, olives, burgundy and undyed white, for their gansey projects. £14.40 per 100g. www.blackeryarns.co.uk 01566 777 635 The Knitter 14 Issue 149
SHORELAND SOCKS by Hunter Hammersen Capturing the textures of the seashore and rockpools, and the rhythm of waves on the sea, this book of sock patterns by Hunter Hammersen offers delicately beautiful designs. There are seven projects in the book, using exquisite lace, cables, twisted stitches and pretty dip stitches; all of them will be a great way to use up a special skein of hand-dyed or artisan yarn. Pantsville Press; available from Search Press, £19.99 PORTUGUESE KNITTING by Rosa Pomar Explore the fascinating history of Portuguese knitting, and learn the techniques needed to knit in the Portuguese style, with this excellent guide from expert Rosa Pomar. Along with in-depth tutorials, there are 20 patterns for accessories and homeware items. These include traditional hats, socks, gloves, cowls, shawls and leggings, along with bags, rugs and cushions. Search Press, £14.99 SHAWLS, WRAPS AND SCARVES by Louisa Harding Louisa Harding is known for her feminine designs, and her new pattern book is an anthology of 11 brand-new projects along with 10 classic designs from her portfolio. The range of delicate scarves, draping shawls, evening wraps and capelets all use intricate stitch patterns, worked in either one or two colours. A number of the patterns incorporate beading for added beauty. Dover Publications, £16.99 NEW BOOKS Foundations SS20 by The Fibre Co. The Foundations pattern series from The Fibre Co. is designed to offer a stylish, versatile choice of wardrobe essentials, with patterns that will help improving knitters to build their skills. The latest release in the series offers six light layers for spring and summer, with delicate textures and draping shapes. The designs have been inspired by botanical themes, and projects include a long, floaty shawl-collar cardigan by Xiaowei Design, called ‘Hazeldene’. It’s knitted from the top down, and features a subtle textured stitch. Another top-down design is ‘Greenall’ by Safiyyah Talley, which has a circular yoked shape and a striking pattern of eyelets. The collection also offers a cap-sleeve lace top, an open cardigan with smart cable details, an asymmetric shawl by Clare Devine with textural cluster stitches, and a boxy pullover with a modular construction. Patterns cost £5.50 each from www.thefibreco.com Our pick of the best pattern collections and e-books LIGHT SHAPES & STITCHES The Knitter 15 Issue 149
NYLON-FREE SOCK YARNS Three natural options for your feet SMOOTH SOCK by Ainsworth & Prin Price £18 per 100g/400m. 100% Bluefaced Leicester wool. Hand-dyed; shown in shade Linnet. www.theknittingshed.com 01903 683 683 Designer Jayalakshmi of Apoorva Designs has teamed up with Eden Cottage Yarns to develop a collection of shawls and wraps. The four projects were inspired by famous poems that celebrates the seasons. Capturing the joy of spring is ‘Echoing Green’, a half-circle shawl knitted in two shades of Eden Cottage’s Oakworth 4ply. Along with a deep lace border, it is decorated with little tassels. ‘Sun and Shower’ is a circular shawl, knitted from the centre out in a laceweight yarn, and which features the most exquisite lace motifs. ‘Ode to Autumn’ is a rectangular wrap combining a mohair laceweight with a 4ply wool, and featuring delicate stripes and lace panels. Finally, ‘Snowy Evening’ has a cosy fabric thanks to the use of the aran-weight Pendle yarn; it is knitted on the bias using cable patterns and an asymmetric shape. Designs are available as individual printed pattern leaflets or as a bundle of four patterns, or as complete kits which include the pattern, yarns, a printed ECY project bag, and a Soak wool wash sachet. www.edencottageyarns.co.uk/collections/ four-seasons-collection CUTHBERT’S SOCK by Whistlebare Price £28.50 per 130g/300m. 80% mohair, 20% Wensleydale wool. Shown in shade Holy Island. www.whistlebare.com 07775 501068 NETTLE SOCK YARN by Onion Knit Price £5.70 per 50g/185m. 70% wool, 30% nettle fibre. Shown in shade Lys Petrol (1025). www.wildandwoollyshop.co.uk 020 8985 5231 Four Seasons by Jayalakshmi 13 2 1 ‘Echoing Green’ uses two shades of 4ply 2 ‘Sun and Shower’ features intricate lace 3 ‘Snowy Evening Shawl’ The Knitter 16 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
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Sirdar has issued a range of women’s patterns for its Country Classic 4ply yarn, all featuring elegant Fair Isle and colourwork details. There are beautiful yoked jumpers, relaxed sweaters, tank tops and cardigans to choose from. Available from www.sirdar.co.uk NEW FROM NORO These yarn cakes from Noro look simply delicious, don’t they! The newest launches from the Japanese yarn company are beautifully presented, and offer the artistic gradient colourways we’ve come to expect. Tabi is a sportweight wool-polyamide in 150g balls that’s ideal for self-striping accessories. Tsubame and Ito are both worsted-weight yarns which come in 200g balls. Tsubame is a wool-silk blend, while Ito is a pure wool. All three new yarns come in a wide range of vivid colour-changing options. For stockists visit www.knittingfever.com On my needles Helen Spedding, operations editor Summer sun Complement your knits with bright & beautiful layers from Gudrun Sjödén’s new collection Explore the clothing collections at www.gudrunsjoden.com I’m always on the lookout for nice stashbuster projects, so I was really pleased to come across a Fair Isle cushion in Kate Davies’s book, Knitting Season. As it calls for aran-weight yarns, I knew it would be a great way to use up some balls of Léttlopi wool. The front of the cushion is worked from the outside in, and features a colourwork pattern of leaping fish. It’s based on Glasgow’s coat of arms, and is called ‘Let Glasgow Flourish’. I’ll be joining the back pieces to the front by working an i-cord cast-off. As well as the Léttlopi wool, I used some Aire Valley Aran yarn from West Yorkshire Spinners, and a bit of Baa Ram Ewe’s Dovestone Aran. The front piece was super-fun to knit, but if I’m honest, I don’t like the green I’ve used in the centre - I was hoping it would look like an island in the sea, but it doesn’t really... I don’t think I can be bothered to reknit it, though! Knitting Season costs £20 and can be ordered from www.shopkdd.com The Knitter 18 Issue 149 Fibre Rocks is an exciting yarn event that will be taking place on 6-7 June at a gorgeous seaside location! The show will be held at the De La Warr Pavilion on the seafront at Bexhill-on -Sea in East Sussex, and it’s being organised by The Fibre Lounge team. Among the 50 vendors will be yarn brands such as Qing Fibre, HeyJay Hand Dyed Yarns, Botanical Yarn, Brambles & Me and Rosie’s Moments. You’ll also be able to buy tools and notions from The Little Grey Girl, An Caitín Beag, Emily Cross Ceramics and many more. There will be workshops, demos and talks, too, along with the chance to sit and knit with Black Girl Knit Club in the community lounge. For more information and to buy tickets, visit www.fibrerocks.com Fibre Rocks gets set for yarny fun
Black Girl Knit Club now has its own website, where you can find patterns, gifts and tutorials, and learn more about the group’s work to champion diversity within the knitting community. www.blackgirlknitclub.com WINNERS THIS ISSUE! C Cook Kidlington P Weston Tamworth H Waterman Menai Bridge Immediate M edia Company, publishers of The Knitter, Subs Stars giveaway Terms and Conditions: Prizes were dispatched before the on-sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. WIN! VIP SUBSCRIBERS! Every month, three of our subscribers will win a prize as a thank-you for their loyalty to The Knitter. This month, the winners (below) will each receive a copy of Hitomi Shida’s inspiring book, Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible, wor th £14.99. Check your issue next month to see if you’re a winner of our Subs Stars draw! Get sock knitting with our prize pile! Do you love to knit socks? Then why not enter our special sock-themed competition this month! We’re giving away four inspirational books of sock patterns: Colorful Knit Soxx by Kerstin Balke, Silk Road Socks by Hunter Hammersen, More Super Socks by Christine Perry, and 30 Slippers to Knit and Felt by Arne & Carlos. We’re including three sock yarns, too, so you can cast on a pair straight away: Dye Is Cast Yarns Squish Wish Socks, Rico Designs Superba Susu, and Novita’s 7 Veljestä Pohloja aran-weight sock yarn. For a chance to win, head to: www.gathered.how/competitions/ the-knitter-competitions/ WIN! OPEN TO UK ENTRANTS ONLY. CLOSING DATE IS 11PM ON 29 APRIL 2020. FOR T&C VISIT WWW.GATHERED.HOW/COMPETITION-TERMS -AND-CONDITIONS Pick of the ARCTIC KNITTING Norwegian knitter Emilie shares her mitten knitting adventures http://bit.ly/arcticep72 WOOLWORK Louise Scollay (formerly KnitBritish) visits Jamieson’s of Shetland www.knitbritish.net/rewind-ep30/ KNITTERS’ LEAGUE Lots of chat about yarn and knitting with Elissa, Julie, Laurie and Sophia http://bit.ly/knittersleagueep37 LOOP KNIT LOUNGE Hikaru Noguchi, Celia Pym & Rachael Matthews discuss the art of darning http://bit.ly/loopdarning podcasts Our favourite knitting shows 6æ\RXLQ%XLOë Meet the team from The Knitter at this year’s Wonderwool Wales fibre festival 25-26 April, Builth Wells. w ww.wonderwoolwales.co.uk; 01938 820 495 The Knitter 20 Issue 149
No minimum order. FREE delivery on UK orders over £25. £2.95 delivery charge for UK orders under £25. Order online: Phone us: Email us: www.woolwarehouse.co .uk 01926 882818 or 0800 505 3300 hello@woolwarehouse.co .uk Snuggly Replay NEW! DK | 50% Acr ylic, 50% Cotton £2.49 per 50g ball Save 10% on Sirdar Snuggly Replay and more! * Use discount code TK149 at www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Explore the Elements of Fiber and Color http://www.thefiberists.com @the.fiberists @thefiberists fb.com/thefiberists Create something amazing knitpurl.com.au Recycle your magazine and seven days later it could come back as your newspaper www.recyclenow.com The Possibilities Endless are
Workshops, yarn shows & holidays to inspire your knitting EVENTS GUIDE WORKSHOPS 16 APRIL Salisbury Domino Knitting www.borntoknit.co.uk 07557 985935 17 APRIL Sherborne Short Rows www.theslippedstitch.co.uk 01935 508249 18 APRIL Bath Trunk Show and Book Signing with Stephen West www.ayarnstory.co.uk 01225 429239 18 APRIL Solihull Finishing Techniques www.stitchsolihull.com 0121 314 6888 18 APRIL Pittenweem, Fife Gansey Knitting Techniques and Motifs for Knitting Socks www.digilpin.com 18 APRIL Warrington Sock Blank Dyeing www.blacksheepwools.com 01925 764231 22 APRIL Nottingham Fair Isle Cowl www.knitnottingham.co.uk 0115 947 4239 23 APRIL Liss, Hampshire Knitting a Patchwork Shell Shawl www.lisswools.co.uk 01730 893941 24 APRIL Exeter Brioche Basics www.woolontheexe.com 01392 669015 25 APRIL/30 MAY/27 JUNE Norwich Knit a Beaded Lace Shawl www.norfolkyarn.co.uk 01603 927034 25 APRIL Warrington Double Knitting with Juliet Bernard www.blacksheepwools.com 01925 764231 25 APRIL Felton, Morpeth FISS Knitting (Fair Isle Slip Stitch) www.finefettlefibres.uk 01670 600001 25 APRIL Sherborne Entrelac Knitting www.theslippedstitch.co.uk 01935 508249 26 APRIL Edinburgh Professional Finishing www.beinspiredfibres.wordpress. com 0131 629 2059 28 APRIL Exeter Design an Asymmetric Shawl www.woolontheexe.com 01392 669015 2 MAY Felton, Morpeth Celtic Cables www.finefettlefibres.uk 01670 600001 9 MAY St Albans Continental Knitting with Annika Andrea Wolke rowanatosprey@icloud.com FESTIVALS 18-19 APRIL Leeds Spring Into Wool www.springintowool.co.uk 25-26 APRIL Builth Wells Wonderwool Wales www.wonderwoolwales.co.uk 01938 820 495 9-10 MAY Wadebridge Cornish Fibre Festival www.cornishfibrefestival.com 16-17 MAY Penkridge, Staffs Wool@J13 www.wool-j13.uk 01785 330757 6 JUNE Leeds Leeds Wool Festival http://bit.ly/leedswoolfest 6-7 JUNE Bexhill-on-Sea Fibre Rocks www.fibrerocks.com 13-14 JUNE Sheffield The Wool Monty www.thewoolmonty.co.uk KNITTING HOLIDAYS 15-17 MAY Fife Di Gilpin Weekend Workshop www.digilpin.com gill.morrison15@gmail.com 25-29 MAY Blackpool Gansey Shawl Project www.westcliffe-knitting.co.uk 01253 352943 31MAY-2JUNE Chichester Folksy Knits with Sasha Kagan www.westdean.org.uk 01243 811301 5-13 JULY Latvia/Lithuania/ Estonia Baltic Cities Knitting Tour with Carol Meldrum www.stitchtopia.co.uk 01473 660800 2-7 AUGUST Whitstable Fair Isle by the Sea with Marie Wallin www.mariewallin.com 17-24 AUGUST Faroe Islands Knitting in the Faroe Islands www.stitchtopia.co.uk 01473 660800 Tell us about your event! theknitter@immediate.co.uk The Knitter 22 Issue 149
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SIÂN BROWN Chichester Lace panels add a pretty touch to this V-neck cardigan, worked in Irish moss stitch and a tweedy recycled yarn The Knitter Issue 149
Our photoshoot has been styled with the distinctive, vibrant clothes of Gudrun Sjödén. Explore the collection at www.gudrunsjoden.com Chichester
SIÂN BROWN Chichester STITCH PATTERNS IRISH MOSS STITCH Row 1 (RS): K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): P1, *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Row 3: P1, *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Row 4: K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Repeat these 4 rows for pattern. LACE PANEL (18 st s) Row 1 (RS): P1, K4, P1, K6, P1, K2tog, yo, K2, P1. Row 2 (WS): K1, P2tog, yo, P2, K1, P6, K1, P4, K1. Row 3: P1, K4, P1, K6, P1, K2tog, yo, K2, P1. Row 4: K1, P2tog, yo, P2, K1, P6, K1, P4, K1. Row 5: P1, K4, P1, yo, Cr6dec, yo, P1, K2tog, yo, K2, P1. Row 6: K1, P2tog, yo, P2, K1, P6, K1, P4, K1. Row 7: P1, K4, P1, K6, P1, K2tog, yo, K2, P1. Row 8: K1, P2tog, yo, P2, K1, P6, K1, P4, K1. Repeat these 8 rows for pattern. BACK Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 90 (98:102:110:114:122:126:134) sts. Sizes 8, 16, 18 and 20 only Row 1 (RS): P2, *K2, P2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): K2, *P2, K2; rep from * to end. Sizes 10, 12, 14 and 22 only Row 1 (RS): K2, *P2, K2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): P2, *K2, P2; rep from * to end. All sizes These 2 rows form the rib. Work in rib a further 12 rows, inc 3 (1:3: 1:3:1:3:1) sts evenly across last row. 93 (99:105:111:117:123:129:135) sts. Change to 4mm needles. Work straightinIrishMossStitch until B ack m e a s 4 0 (41:41:42:42:43:43:44) cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. SHAPE ARMHOLES Cast off 5 (5:6:6:7:7:8:8) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 83 (89:93:99:103 :109:1 13 :119) sts. Nextrow:K2tog,patt to last 2 sts, skpo. Nextrow:Patt to end. Rep the last 2 rows 4 (5:5:6:6:7:7:8) more times. 73 (77:81:85:89:93:97:101) sts. Cont straight until Back meas 57 (58:59: 60:61:62:63:64) cm from cast-on edge, ending with aWS row. SHAPE RIGHT NECK Next row (RS): P a t t 18 (19:20:21:22:23:24:25), turn and cont on these sts for right side of neck. Next row: Cast off 2 sts, patt to end. Nextrow:Patttolast2sts, skpo. Nextrow:P2tog tbl,patt to end. 14 (15:16:17:18:19:20:21) sts. SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off. SHAPE LEFT NECK WithRSfacing, rejoinyarnto rem sts, cast off centre 37 (39:41:43:45:47:49:51) sts, patt to end. 18 (19:20:21:22:23:24:25) sts. Nextrow(WS):Patt to end. Next row (RS): Cast off 2 sts, patt to end. Nextrow:Patttolast2sts, skpo. Nextrow:P2tog tbl,patt to end. 14 (15:16:17:18:19:20:21) sts. SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off. LEFT FRONT Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 42 (44:48:52:54:58:60:64) sts. Sizes 8, 16, and 18 only Row 1 (RS): P2, *K2, P2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): K2, *P2, K2; rep from * to end. Sizes 10, 12, 14 , 20 and 22 only Row 1 (RS): *K2, P2; rep from * to end. SIÂNBROWN’SV-neck cardiganis worked in Irish moss stitch, whose nubby texture is enhanced by the use of a soft, tweedy yarn. The sleeves and front bands are decorated with beautiful panels of lace which include unusual crossed decrease stitches. The yarn, Bergère de France’s Ecoton, is made entirelyfrom recycledfibres and recovered materials. It comes in 12 warm shades, and can be washed in the machine at 30°C. SIZE TO FIT BUST 810121416182022 81869297102107112117cm 3234363840424446in ACTUAL BUST 859196102107112118124cm 331⁄2353⁄4373⁄4 40 42 44 461⁄2483⁄4 in ACTUAL LENGTH 5960616263646566cm 231⁄4233⁄4 24 241⁄2243⁄4251⁄4251⁄2 26 in SLEEVE SEAM 4646464646464646cm 1818181818181818in YARN Bergère de France Ecoton (DK weight; 48% cotton, 48% acrylic, 4% other fibres; 130m/142yds per 50g ball) PRALINE (200115)788910101111x50g BALLS NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles 1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 120cm long 6 x 15mm buttons TENSION 22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over Irish Moss st on 4mm needles YARN STOCKISTS Bergère de France www.bergeredefrance.co.uk The Knitter 28 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
The back is worked in Irish moss stitch Row 2 (WS): *K2, P2; rep from * to end. All sizes These 2 rows form the rib. Workafurther12rowsinrib,inc2(3:2: 1:2:1:2:1) sts evenly across last row. 44 (47:50:53:56:59:62:65) sts. ** Change to 4mm needles. Row 1 (RS): P0 (1:0:1:0:1:0:1), (K1, P1) 13 (14:16:17:19:20:22:23) times, work Row 1 of Lace Panel. Row 2 (WS): Work Row 2 of Lace Panel, (K1, P1) 13 (14:16:17:19:20:22:23) times, K0 (1:0:1:0:1:0:1). Row 3: K0 (1:0:1:0:1:0:1), (P1, K1) 13 (14:16: 17:19:20:22:23) times, work Row 3 of Lace Panel. Row4:WorkRow 4 ofLacePanel,(P1, K1) 13 (14:16:17:19:20:22:23) times, P0 (1:0:1:0:1: 0:1). These 4 rows set position of Lace Panel with Irish Moss Stitch. Work straight in patt until 6 rows fewer havebeen worked than onBackto armhole shaping, ending with aWS row. SHAPE FRONT NECK Decrow(RS):Patt to last 19 sts, P2tog tbl, patt 17. 1 st dec’d. Patt 1 row. Rep the last 2 rows twice more. 41 (44:47:50:53:56:59:62) sts. SHAPE ARMHOLE Next row (RS): Cast off 5 (5:6:6:7:7:8:8) sts, patt to last 19 sts, P2tog,patt 17. BLOCKING DIAGRAM 35 (38:40:43:45:48:50:53) sts. Next row (WS):Patt to end. Decrow(RS):K2tog,patt to last 19 sts, P2tog, patt 17. 2 sts dec’d. Next row (WS):Patt to end. Rep the last 2 rows 4 (5:5:6:6:7:7:8) more times. 25 (26:28:29:31:32:34:35) sts. *** Keeping armhole edge straight, cont to dec at neck edge on every RS row until 14 (15:16:17:18:19:20:21) sts rem. Work straight until Front meas same as Back to shoulder shaping, ending at armhole edge. SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off. RIGHT FRONT Work as for Left Front to **. Change to 4mm needles. Row 1 (RS): Work Row 1 of Lace Panel, (P1, K1) 13 (14:16:17:19:20:22:23) times, P0 (1:0:1:0:1:0:1). Row 2 (WS): K0 (1:0:1:0:1:0:1), (P1, K1) 13 (14:16:17:19:20:22:23) times, work Row 2 of Lace Panel. Row3:WorkRow3 ofLacePanel,(K1,P1) 13 (14:16:17:19:20:22:23) times, K0 (1:0:1:0:1: 0:1). Row 4: P0 (1:0:1:0:1:0:1), (K1, P1) 13 (14:16: 17:19:20:22:23) times, work Row 4 of Lace Panel. These 4 rows set position of Lace Panel with Irish Moss Stitch. Work straight in patt until 6 rows fewer havebeen worked than onBack to armhole shaping, ending with aWS row. SHAPE FRONT NECK Dec row (RS): Patt 17, P2tog, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Patt 1 row. Rep the last 2 rows twice more. 41 (44:47:50:53:56:59:62) sts. SHAPE ARMHOLE Next row(RS):Patt 17, P2tog,patt to end. Next row (WS): Cast off 5 (5:6:6:7:7:8:8) sts, patt to end. 35 (38:40:43:45:48:50:53) sts. Decrow(RS):Patt 17, P2tog,patt to last 2 sts, skpo. 2 sts dec’d. Nextrow(WS):Patt to end. Rep the last 2 rows 4 (5:5:6:6:7:7:8) times. 25 (26:28:29:31:32:34:35) sts. Complete as for Left Front from *** to end. SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS Cr6dec: Cross 6 sts with decrease – slip next 3 sts onto RH needle, KFB in next st, K2, pass the 3 slipped sts over the last 4 sts. For general abbreviations, see p89 421⁄2 (451⁄2:48:51:531⁄2:56:59:62) cm 5 9 ( 6 0 : 6 1 : 6 2 : 6 3 : 6 4 : 6 5 : 6 6 ) c m 4 6 c m Chichester The Knitter 29 Issue 149
Lace panels extend down each sleeve SLEEVES Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 42 (42:46:46:50:50:54:54) sts. Row 1 (RS): K2, *P2, K2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): P2, *K2, P2; repfrom * to end. These 2 rows form the rib. Work in rib a further 14 rows, inc 2 sts evenly across last row. 44 (44:48:48:52:52:56:56) sts. Change to 4mm needles. Row 1 (RS): K1, (P1, K1) 6 (6:7:7:8:8:9:9) times, workRow 1 of LacePanel,(K1, P1) 6 (6:7:7:8:8:9:9) times, K1. Row 2 (WS): P1, (K1, P1) 6 (6:7:7:8:8:9:9) times, workRow 2 ofLacePanel,(P1, K1) 6 (6:7:7:8:8:9:9) times, P1. Row 3: P1, (K1, P1) 6 (6:7:7:8:8:9:9) times, work Row 3 of Lace Panel, (P1, K1) 6 (6:7:7: 8:8:9:9) times, P1. Row 4: K1, (P1, K1) 6 (6:7:7:8:8:9:9) times, work Row 4 of Lace Panel, (K1, P1) 6 (6:7:7: 8:8:9:9) times, K1. These 4 rows set position of Lace Panel with Irish Moss Stitch. Patt 4 more rows. Inc row (RS): Patt 13 (13:15:15:17:17:19:19) sts in Irish Moss St, M1, patt 18 of lace panel, M1, patt 13 (13:15:15:17:17:19:19) sts in Irish Moss Stitch. 2 sts inc’d. Working new sts as Irish Moss Stitch, inc before and after lace panel as before in 7 foll 10th rows. 60 (60:64:64:68:68:72:72) sts. Work straight until Sleeve meas approx. 46cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. SHAPE SLEEVE TOP Cast off 5 (5:6:6:7:7:8:8:9:9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 50 (50:52:52:54:54:56:56) sts. Decrow(RS):K2tog,patt to last 2 sts, skpo. 2 sts dec’d. Nextrow(WS):Patt to end. Rep the last 2 rows 5 (5:6:6:7:7:8:8) times more. 38 sts. Decrow(RS):K2tog,patt to last 2 sts, skpo. 2 sts dec’d. Work 3 rows. Rep the last 4 rows 4 more times. 28 sts. Decrow(RS):K2tog,patttolast2sts, skpo. 2 sts dec’d. Next row:Patt to end. Rep the last 2 rows once more. 24 sts. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows. 12 sts. Cast off. TO MAKE UP Joi n shoulder seams. FRONT BAND With RS facing and using 3.25mm circular needles, 120cm long, starting at right front cast-on edge, pick up and knit 84 (84:86: 86:88:88:90:90) sts up right front to beg of neck shaping, then 38 (38:40:40:42:42:44: 44) sts up right neck to shoulder, 46 (50:50: 54:54:58:58:62) sts evenly along back neck, 38 (38:40:40:42:42:44:44) sts evenly down left neck to beg of neck shaping, then 84 (84:86:86:88:88:90:90) sts down left front to cast-on edge. 290 (294:302:306:314:318:326:330) sts. Row 1 (WS): P2, *K2, P2; repfrom * to end. Row 2 (RS): K2, *P2, K2; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form rib. Buttonhole row: Rib to last 80 (80:82:82: 85:85:87:87) sts, *work 2 tog, yo, rib 13 (13:13 :13:14:14:14:14) sts, work 2 tog, yo, rib 13 (13:14:14:14:14:15:15) sts; rep from * once more, work 2 tog, yo, rib 13 (13:13 :13: 14:14:14 :14) sts, work 2 tog, yo, rib 3. Rib 2 more rows straight. Cast off in rib. FINISHING With centre of sleeve top to shoulder seam, sew in sleeves. Join sideand sleeve seams. Sew on buttons. Weave in ends and block gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. The Knitter 30 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter Chichester
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SWATCHES SHOWN ACTUAL SIZE Shade pictured Sunflowers in my Garden Skein weight/length 100g/333m Needle size 3-4 .5mm (UK 11-7/US 2/3-7) Tension 22-28 sts to 10cm Fibre content 100% Falklands Corriedale wool Care Hand wash RRP £15 Contact www.jarbon.com 01598 752490 Brand-new from John Arbon’s Devon mill comes this gorgeous heavy 4ply yarn spun from pure Falklands Corriedale wool. Its neat stitches form a flexible fabric, making it a good choice for comfortable garments you’ll wear for years to come. The mottled colours, in shades inspired by John A rbon’s own record collection, knit up into a gentle, rustic finish. Shade pictured Crowdie (1220) Ball weight/length 50g/175m Needle size 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) Tension 25 sts and 30 rows to 10cm Fibre content 100% Scottish lambswool Care Hand wash cold RRP £9.50 Contact www.digilpin.com Spun from pure Scottish lambswool, Di Gilpin’s Lalland yarn is packed with exciting texture. Its light, double-knit weight comes with a firm, signature twist, which is ideal if you’re looking for a vi ntage finish to your fabric. Lalland delivers a rewarding stitch definition, and comes in a range of delicate neutrals and jewel-bright shades. DI GILPIN Lalland Choose colour and softness for your spring projects with our pick of six lovely wools and wool-blend yarns JOHN ARBON TEXTILES Yarnadelic 18 VK D GHê Yarn choice The Knitter 32 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
Shade pictured Thunder Skein weight/length 100g/360m Needle size 2.5 -4.5mm (UK 13-7/US 1-7) Tension 26 sts to 10cm Fibre content 56% extrafine superwash merino, 44% superkid mohair Care Hand wash RRP £26 Contact www.edencottageyarns.co.uk Shade pictured Lagoon (109) Skein weight/length 50g/165m Needle size 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) Tension 26 sts and 34 rows to 10cm Fibre content 70% wool, 15% silk, 15% alpaca Care Hand wash RRP £14.95 Contact www.knitrowan.com 01484 668200 Shade pictured Fauvism (653) Ball weight/length 215-225g/460m Needle size 4-5mm (UK 8-6/US 6-8) Tension 19 sts and 23 rows to 10cm Fibre content 50% superfine merino wool, 25% microfibre, 25% acrylic Care Machine wash 300C RRP £29.99 Contact www.scheepjes.com www.woolwarehouse.co.uk 01926 882 818 Shade pictured Sisu (055) Ball weight/length 100g/200m Needle size 5mm (UK 6/US 8) Tension 18 sts and 24 rows to 10cm Fibre content 45% wool, 30% Finnish wool, 25% polyamide Care Machine wash 400C RRP £7.90 Contact www.novitaknits.com Take some time to explore this luxurious delight! A sister to Rowan Island Blend, Fine is softer in feel and overall look. It comes in eleven rich, deep and saturated shades, each one with a gentle sheen. This yarn is a pleasing mix of merino wool, baby alpaca and silk, and creates a light finish that will be perfect for accessories and floaty summer garments. These gradient yarn cakes offer long, dramatic and gorgeous colour changes! Whirl Fine A rt is a DK-weight, and creates a fine, springy knit that has both softness and support. The art-inspired colourways have been designed to complement the 12 solid shades of Scheepjes Merino Soft. Start your yarn cake from the outside to avoid getting a tangled centre. Spun from superkid mohair and extrafine merino, Coniston Fingering offers the softest, most luxurious feel. It knits up into fabric with a soft drape and a light bounce, and has a fuzzy halo thanks to the mohair content. Knit it at a tighter gauge for firmer stitches, or use larger needles for a light, floaty fabric. The hand-dyed colours are wonderfully sophisticated. Spun in Finland, this new addition to Novita’s 7 Veljestä family twists two tones together along the strand, so that it knits up into an interestingly speckled fabric. It’s an aran-weight yarn that has been created with cosy socks in mind - a single ball should be enough to make a basic, medium-sized women’s pair. It has a hard-wearing finish, too. NOVITA 7 Veljestä Pohjola EDEN COTTAGE YARNS Coniston Fingering SCHEEPJES Whirl Fine Art ROWAN Island Blend Fine Gradient yarn Reviews The Knitter 33 Issue 149
MODERN HERITAGE KNITS by Christina Danaee DESIGNER CHRISTINA Danaee set out to celebrate the dedicated, hardworking people keeping America’s fibre i ndustry alive, with her new book of knitting patterns. Taking American-made yarns as the starting point for her designs, Christina has developed 15 sweater and accessory projects for women. The designs are divided into three sections representing different regions of the United States, based on yarns from these areas and inspired by their climate and terrain. Throughout the book are short profiles of each of the yarn companies featured in the patterns, exploring their stories and their sustai nable approaches to yarn production. In the ‘Northeast’ section, the focus is on beautifully textured and cabled stitches, reflecting the region’s maritime history. Rich textures knitted in worsted-weight Cormo wool feature on the ‘Kinney Shores’ shawl, while super-chunky Quince & Co. Puffinwoolisusedtomake apair of cosy slippers. The ‘Odiorne Point Pullover’ is a drop-sleeve, striped sweater, with a cowl neck that can be cinched shut with an i-cord; it’s knitted in Green Mountain Spinnery’s Cotton Comfort yarn. Great reads Showcasing American artisan yarns, this stylish book is filled with beautifully textured patterns with a timeless look Laceand softtexturestake centre stage in the ‘Mid-Atlantic and South’ section. It features gorgeous garments, including a racerback-style sleeveless top. This has lace panels around the hem and between the shoulders. The belted, raglan ‘Celo Cardigan’ has hexagon textures knitted in American alpaca. Other projects in this section include a square wrap worked from the centre out, and lacy trellis socks. The ‘West Coast’ projects play with colour patterns inspired by the region’s wild landscapes. Geometric motifs feature on the ‘Tygh Cardigan’, a n open-fronted, shawl-collar design. The ‘Agate Bay Pullover’ is a yoked, top-down sweater whose colourwork patterns are highlighted by the use of a gradient yarn from Spincycle Yarns. ‘PointRichmondCap’is adouble-layer hat, with one layer using Nordic-i nspired stranded colour work motifs, and the inner layer kept plain; the result is super-warm and fully reversible. We also love the half-circle shawl in corrugated ribbing which showcases two natural shades of a rambouillet-merino wool blend from YarnOnTheHouse. Christina offers helpful suggestions for yarn substitutions if you are unable to source the original yarns. The garments are mostly sized to fit busts of 32in to 48in. Modern Heritage Knits is published byPage Street Publishing,priced £16.99. Available to order in the UK from www.melia.co.uk or from www.amazon.co.uk P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y O L I V I A E M M E R Reviews The Knitter 34 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
A L L I M A G E S © C H R I S M O R P H E T / G E T T Y The Knitter 36 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter Knitting history
In 1970, photographer Chris Morphet travelled to Fair Isle to document the islanders and their iconic knitwear. The pictures he took, now held in the Getty archives, are a wonderful record of the island’s knitting heritage FAIR ISLE MEMORIES FEATURE The Knitter 37 Issue 149
ELLY DOYLE Fairy Flax Subtle lace details and waist shaping add to the feminine style of this jumper The Knitter Issue 149
A V-shaped panel of lace and cables adorns the neckline Fairy Flax
ELLY DOYLE Fairy Flax PATTERN NOTE WS rows are not shown on charts. All WS rows are worked in purl. STITCH PATTERNS BROKEN GARTER STITCH Row 1 (RS): Purl. Row 2 (WS): Purl. Row 3 (RS): Knit. Row 4 (WS): Purl. Repeat these 4 rows for pattern. FRONT Using 4.5mm needles and the thumb or long-tail cast-on method, cast on 90 (94: 98:100:104:108:112:116:120:126:130) sts. Knit 5 rows. Beg with a RS row, work 1 (2:2:3:2:3:3:4: 4:4:4) cm in st st, ending after a WS row. Next row (RS dec): K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Work5rowsin st st. Rep these 6 rows another 8 (8:8:7:8:8:8:7: 7:7:7) times. 72 (76:80:84:86:90:94:100 :104:110:114) st s. Work evenin st st untilpiecemeasures 241⁄2 (251⁄2:251⁄2:251⁄2:251⁄2:261⁄2:261⁄2:261⁄2: 261⁄2:271⁄2:271⁄2) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. Next row (RS inc): K2, M1, K to last 2 sts, M1, K2. 2 sts inc’d. Work5rowsin st st. Rep these 6 rows another 5 (4:4:4:5:4:4:4: 5:4:5) times. 84 (86:90:94:98:100:104:110:1 16 :120:1 26) sts. Work evenin st st untilpiecemeasures 45 (45:46:46:46:47:47:47:47:47:47) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. SHAPE ARMHOLES Cont in st st, cast off 5 (6:6:6:6:6:7:7:8:8:8) stsatbegofnext2rows,3stsatbegofnext 2 (2:2:2:4:4:4:6:4:6:6) rows, then 2 sts at beg of next 2 (2:2:4:2:2:2:2:4:2:4) rows. 64 (64:68:68:70:72:74:74:80:82:84) sts. Next row (RS): K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Next row (WS): Purl. Rep these 2 rows another 1 (0:1:0:1:1:1:0: 1:1:1) time.*** 60 (62:64:66:66:68:70:72:76:78:80) sts. Work evenin st st untilwork measures 5 (5:5:41⁄2:51⁄2:51⁄2:6:6:61⁄2:61⁄2:7) cm f rom underarm, ending after a WS row. Next row (RS): K19 (20:21:22:22:23:24:25: 27:28:29), pm, work Row 1 of Neckline Chart, pm, K to end of row. 61 (63:65:67:67:69:71:73:77:79:81) sts. Work even until Row 21 of chart has been completed. Nextrow(WS):Purl tomrk, remove mrk, P1, pm, P to 1 st before mrk, pm, P1, remove mrk, P to end. Next row (RS): K1, work Broken Garter Stitch to 2 sts before m rk, K2tog, yo, sl m, Ktomrk, slm, yo, SSK, workBroken Garter Stitch to last st, K1. Next row (WS): Purl. These 2 rows set the patt of Broken Garter Stitch, paired decreases with yarnovers, and st st between markers and at each end of row. Work 4 more rows inpatt. SHAPE RIGHT FRONT NECK Next row (RS): P at t 3 6 (37:38:39:39:40: 42:43:45:46:48) sts, place last 11 (11:1 1:11:1 1: 11:13:13:13:13:15) sts worked on holder, patt to end. Cont over these 25 (26:27:28:28:29: 29:30:32:33:33) sts only for right neck. ****Cont in patt, cast off 3 sts at beg of next RSrow, 2 sts atbeg offollRSrow, thendec 1 st at neck edge of 2 (3:3:4:4:4:4:4:5:6:6) foll RS rows. 18 (18:19:19:19:20:20:21:22:22:22) st s. Work eveninpatt until armhole measures 19 (20:20:20:21:21:22:22:23:23:24) cm, LONG AND draping, this lightweight jumper by Elly Doyle has been designed with waist shaping for a feminine fit. It has a round neckline with a V-shaped panel of lace and cables, which is emphasised by a pattern of garter stitch stripes on either side. Triangular lace and cable panels are also worked above the garter stitch sleeve cuffs. Elly’s jumperisknittedinBaaRamEwe’s Titus, a special blend of Wensleydale and Bluefaced Leicester wool with British alpaca that’s spun in Yorkshire. SIZE TO FIT BUST 8 10 12 1416182022242628 8084889296100104110116122127cm 311⁄233343⁄4361⁄4373⁄4391⁄441431⁄4453⁄44850 in ACTUAL BUST 891⁄2 92 96 1001⁄2 105 107 1111⁄2 118 1241⁄2 1281⁄2 135 cm 351⁄4361⁄4373⁄4391⁄2411⁄4421⁄444461⁄249501⁄2531⁄4in ACTUAL LENGTH 64656666676869697070 71 cm 251⁄4251⁄22626261⁄2263⁄4271⁄4271⁄4271⁄2271⁄228 in SLEEVE SEAM 4040404040404040404040cm 153⁄4 153⁄4 153⁄4 153⁄4 153⁄4 153⁄4 153⁄4 153⁄4 153⁄4 153⁄4 153⁄4 in YARN Baa Ram Ewe Titus (4ply weight; 70% British wool, 30% British alpaca; 320m/350yds per 100g skein) WHITE ROSE 3 3 3 3 3 3 4 4444x100g SKEINS The Knitter 40 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
ending after a WS row. SHAPE RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER Work short-row shaping as foll: Next row (RS): Patt 12 (12:12:12:12:14:14:14: 14:14:14), turn. Next row (WS): DS, patt to end. Next row: Patt 6 (6:6:6:6:7:7:7:7:7:7), tu r n . Next row: DS, patt to end. Next row: K across all sts. Break yarn and place all sts on holder. SHAPE LEFT FRONT NECK WithWSfacing,joinyarnto25(26:27:28: 28:29:29:30:32:33:33) sts held for left front neck. Work as for Right Neck from **** to end, reversing all shapings. BACK Work as Front to ***. Work evenin st st untilBack measures same as Front to beginning of short row shaping. 60 (62:64:66:66:68:70:72:76:78:80) sts. SHAPE LEFT BACK NECK Next row (RS): K40 (42:43:45:45:46:48:49: 52:54:56), place last 20 (22:22:24:24:24:26: 26:28:30:32) sts worked on holder, K1, K2tog, K11 (11:1 1:11:11:13:13 :13:13:13:13), turn. Next row (WS): DS, P to end. Next row: K1, K2tog, K4 (4:4:4:4:5:5:5: 5:5:5), turn. Next row: DS, P to end. Next row: K across all sts. 18 (18:19:19:19:20:20:21:22:22:22) sts. NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) knitting needles 1 set 4mm (UK 8/US 6) double-pointed needles (DPNs) Stitch holders Stitch markers Cable needle (cn) TENSION 18.5stsx28rowsto10cmoverstston 4.5mm needles YARN STOCKISTS Baa Ram Ewe 0113 278 1788 www.baaramewe.co.uk
Break yarn and place sts on holder. SHAPE RIGHT BACK NECK WithRSfacing,joinyarnto20(20:21:21: 21:22:22:23:24:24:24) sts held for right back neck. Nextrow(RS):Ktolast3sts, SSK,K1. Next row (WS): P13 (13:13:13:13:15:15:15: 15:15:15), turn. Next row: DS, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. Next row: P6 (6:6:6:6:7:7:7:7:7:7), t u r n . Next row: DS, K to end. Next row (WS): P across all sts. 18 (18:19:19:19:20:20:21:22:22:22) sts. With RS facing, joi n Front and Back shoulders using three-needle cast-off. SLEEVES (both alike) Using 4.5mm needles and the thumb or long-tail cast-on method, cast on 31 (31:31:31:41:41:41:41:41:41:41) sts. Knit 5 rows. WorkRows 1-18 of Cuff Chart, working sts indicated for your size and shape sleeves AT THE SAME TIME as folls, taking new sts into st st: Nextrow(RSinc):Patt2,M1,patttolast2 sts, M1, patt 2. 2 sts inc’d. Work 3 (3:3:3:3:3:3:3:1:1:1) row(s) even in patt. Note: Once chart has been completed, work all sts in st st. Rep last 4 (4:4:4:4:4:4:4:2:2:2) rows another 12 (12:13:15:11:13:14:16:18:20:22) times, working inc sts in st st. 57 (57:59:63:65:69:71:75:79:83:87) sts. Workeveninst st untilwork meas40cm, or desired length to underarm. SHAPE SLEEVE HEAD Cont in st st, cast off 5 (6:6:6:6:6:7:7:8:8:8) stsatbegofnext2rows,then2stsatbegof next 2 (2:2:2:2:2:2:4:4:4:4) rows. 43 (41:43:47:49:53:53:53:55:59:63) sts. Work 8 (8:6:6:6:6:6:6:4:4:4) rows in st st. Next row (RS dec): K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Work3rowsinstst. Rep last 4 rows another 3 (3:3:3:3:3:3:3: 3:2:2) times. 35 (33:35:39:41:45:45:45:47:53:57) sts. Rep Dec row every RS row another 3 (4:5:6:7:7:8:8:8:10:11) times. 29 (25:25:27:27:31:29:29:31:33:35) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of the next 3 (3:3:5: 5:5:5:7:7:7:7) rows. 23 (19:19:17:17:21:19:15:17:19:21) st s. Cast off. MAKING UP COLLAR Using 4mm DPNs and beg at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 1 st in every row to front neck cast-off sts, then 1 st in every cast-off st, knit across sts on front neck holder, pick up and knit 1 st in every cast-off st, then 1 st in every row to right shoulder seam, pm, 1 st in every row to back neck holder, knit across sts on back neck holder, then pick up and knit 1 st in every row to end of rnd. Pm for beg of rnd. Next rnd: Purl. Next rnd:(K4, K2tog)4 times, K to 24 sts before next mrk, (K2tog, K4) 4 times, K to end. 8 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows once more. Cast off loosely knitwise with WS facing. FINISHING Block garment gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band, and ensuring the lace is opened out well. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve and body seams. Lace and cable details are worked at the cuff Fairy Flax The Knitter 42 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
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1 The Fiberists attend shows around the US, such as the Shenandoah Valley Fiber Festival 2 This top is in the Bird of Paradise colourway 3+4 Reginald and Spencer are the duo behind The Fiberists 5 Their yarns include Newton Worsted and Curie Lux Bulky The guys at Vogue Knitting Live with designer StevenBe 1 2 34 Spencer with designer Denise Bayron at Rhinebeck 5 Yarn industry The Knitter 44 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
SPENCER LEPLER and Reginald Waters are the men behind The Fiberists, the hand-dyeing business which is making waves across the knitting world thanks to its vivid colourways and beautiful yarn bases. The Fiberists are based in Herndon i n the US state of Virginia, and they operate out of their 1,000-square-foot basement studio. The pair, who have been married for four years, have a passion for colour, and their online shop stocks their dyed yarns and fibre, and branded products such as pins, T-shirts and mugs. They met through mutual friends while Spencer was studying architecture at Tulane University in New Orleans, and Reggie was on holiday in the city. “We kept in touch after Reggie went home, and romance blossomed,” explains Spencer. “Reggie moved to New Orleans a few months later, and we’ve now been together for more than 15 years.” After experimenting with dyeing yarn for themselves, Spencer and Reginald found that they really enjoyed the creative outlet that dyeing provided. “We had been going to the DC Men’s Knit meet-up group for a while at the Fibre Space yarn store in Alexandria, Virginia, and had become friendly with Danielle [the owner of Fibre Space]. She helped introduce us to Karida Collins from Neighborhood Fiber Co, who became a mentor to us,” says Spencer. They began dyeing yarn in the kitchen of their one-bedroom loft, but as the brand grew they graduated to larger studio spaces. Spencer and Reginald have been running The Fiberists for almost nine years, alongside their full-time day jobs. “In the evening and on weekends, we spend time in our studio dyeing yarn and fibre, and managing our book-keeping and social media, planning events, answering customer emails, and packing orders,” they tell us. “We still dye some hand paints, but have shifted focus to primarily semi-solids and have greatly expanded our yarn and fibre collections as well as now carrying other accessories,” s ays Reginald. So what made them want to open a dyeing business? “I am an architect and my work never seems to satisfy my creative passion,” s ays Spencer. “My parents owned and operated an educational supply store for years – which my father’s parents founded – and my mother is a clothing designer by education and comes from a long line of fibre- and fabric-related folks. So, this felt like the perfect marriage of my family history and my creativity.” “I do whatever my husband tells me – just kidding!” laughs Reginald. “I enjoy doing all sorts of crafts and hobbies, so this seemed like a way for me to be creative, and for us to work together.” Celebrating science The Fiberists focus on bright and bold semi-solid colours, with themes of science and learning running through their ranges. “All of our repeatable colourways take inspiration from the natural - and not so natural - world, and we name them with the corresponding scientific and common names,” says Spencer. “Our collections are named after important people in the fields of science, technology, engineering and mathematics – many of whom do not have the recognition they deserve. We also have a penchant for the softer side of the fibre spectrum, and like to explore luxury and less commonly used fibres.” Today, The Fiberists carries a number of yarn lines, including Hopper Fingering - a blend of merino, yak and silk - and the merino-silk Hudson Worsted. “We also have a variety of spinning fibre collections, custom enamel pins that feature us as well as our fibre animal friends, and we are stockists for Ashford products, Kookaburra products, ChiaoGoo products, Indian Charkha spinning wheels, and other brands that we fall in love with,” s ays Reginald. “Our website features many of our products, although some may only be available to buy at shows and fibre festivals. We are working on getting more of our products online.” The Fiberists focus on producing a collection of standard colourways composed of a spectrum of semi-solids. “We feel that this helps us stand out, as our yarns are able to complement yarn dyed by many other i ndie dyers,” they explain. “We aim to be the proverbial ‘little black dress’ that can be the utility player in your yarn collection.” Additionally, both Reginald and Spencer each have a different range of colours that they gravitate towards. This has naturally made their colour palette more diverse than if either of them were working solo. As for the future, the duo is working towards developing exciting new offerings for its customers. “We are always exploring new lines and products, so keep an eye out for yarn or fibre labelled as an ‘Experiment’ with a number, as they are products in development.” We can’t wait! www.thefiberists.com Hand-dyeing duo The Fiberists combine their love of colour with their appreciation for science to develop breathtaking colourways, as Colette Earley discovers THE FIBERISTS The Knitter 45 Issue 149
PAT MENCHINI Piedmont This round-necked sweater for men features a stripe-and-circle colourwork pattern The Knitter 46 Issue 149
The design is sized to fit chests of 34in to 52in Piedmont
PAT MENCHINI Piedmont CHART NOTE The chart is worked in stocking stitch throughout. Work RS rows from right to left, and WS rows from left to right. FRONT Using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, cast on 111 (123:135:147:159) st s. Row 1 (RS): K2, *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, K1. Row 2: K1, *P1, K1; repfrom * to end. These 2 rows form rib. Cont in rib until work meas 7cm, ending after row 1. ** Next row: P4 (4:4:10:10), (M1, P6) 17 (19:21:21:23) times, M1, P5 (5:5:11:11). 129 (143:157:169:183) sts. Changeto4mmneedles,joininyarnB and work in patt. Carry colour not in use loosely on WS over no more than three sts at a time. Row1(RS):K7(6:5:3:2)inyarnA, workthe 16-st rep from row 1 of chart 7 (8:9:10:11) times across row, work the 3 end sts from row 1 of chart, K7(6:5:3:2) in yarn A. Row2:P7(6:5:3:2)inyarnA, workthe3 end sts from row 2 of chart, work the 16-st repfrom row 2 of chart 7 (8:9:10:11) times across row, P7 (6:5:3:2) in yarn A. These 2 rows set the chart placement. Working the 18-row rep from chart as set, cont straight until Front meas approx. 50cm from beg, ending after row 12 or 18. The last 2 rows worked set the patt for the remai nder of the Front. Cont in patt as now set until Front meas 60cm frombeg, ending withRSfacingfor next row. SHAPE NECK Next row: Patt 50 (56:61:66:71), turn. Cont on these sts only for left side of neck. ***Work 5 rows, dec 1 st at neck edge on every row. 45 (51:56:61:66) sts. Cont straight until work meas 66 (67:67:68: 69)cmfrombeg, ending at sideedge. SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11) sts at beg of next row and 4 foll alt rows. 10 (11:11:11:11) st s. Work 1 row straight. Cast off. WithRSfacing, slip next 29 (31:35:37:41)sts (centre sts) onto a stitch holder. Rejoin yarns to rem 50 (56:61:66:71) sts and patt to end of row. Complete as forleft sideof neckfrom *** to end. BACK Omitting neck shaping, work asforFront to shoulder shaping, ending withRSfacing for next row. SHAPE SHOULDERS Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11) sts at beg of next 10 rows, then 10 (11:11:11:11) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 39 (41:45:47:51) sts. Slip rem sts onto a stitch holder. SLEEVES Using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, cast on 45 (47:49:51:55) sts. Work as for Front to **. Next row: P7 (8:3:4:6), (M1, P6) 5 (5:7:7:7) times, M1, P8 (9:4:5:7). 51 (53:57:59:63) sts. Changeto4mm needles, joininyarnB and work in patt. Row1(RS):K8(9:11:12:14)inyarnA, (K3inyarnB,K13inyarnA)twice, K3inyarnB,K8(9:11:12:14)inyarnA. Row 2(WS):P9(10:12:13:15) in yarn A, (P1inyarnB,P15inyarnA)twice, P1in A STRANDED colourwork pattern of broken vertical stripes and circles decorates this round-necked sweater for men, designed by Pat Menchini. It’s a simple, easy-to-memorise pattern repeat, knitted in two contrasting colours of King Cole’s Luxury Merino DK yarn. This comes in a wide range of neutral and bolder shades, and is machine-washable at 40°C . NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles 1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles 2 stitch holders TENSION 26 sts and 24 rows to 10cm over Main Patt on 4mm needles YARN STOCKISTS King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com For general abbreviations, see p89 SIZE TO FIT CHEST S M LXL XXL 86-91 97-102 107-112 117-122 127-132 cm 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 in ACTUAL CHEST 100 112 122 132 142 cm 391⁄2 44 48 52 56 in ACTUAL LENGTH 66 67 67 68 69 cm 26 261⁄2 261⁄2 263⁄4 271⁄4 in SLEEVE SEAM 49 49 49 49 49 cm 191⁄4 191⁄4 191⁄4 191⁄4 191⁄4 in YARN King Cole Luxury Merino DK (DK weight; 100% wool; 140m/153yds per 50g ball) A OATMEAL (2621) 10 10 11 11 12 x50g BALLS B SLATE BLUE (2619) 4 4 4 5 5 x50g BALLS The Knitter 48 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
1 3 5 5 10 15 7 9 11 13 15 17 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Yarn A Yarn B Repeat yarnB,P9(10:12:13:15)inyarnA. These 2 rows set the patt. Cont in patt as set and taking extra sts into patt, shape sleeve by inc 1 st at each end of next row, then on every foll 4th row until there are 77 (91:95:109:113) sts, then on every foll 6th (6th:6th:-:-) row until there are 93 (99:103:-: -) sts. Cont straight untilSleeve meas 49cm from beg, ending withRSfacingfor next row. SLEEVEHEAD Row1:Patttolast4sts, turn. Row 2: Sl 1 firmly, patt to last 4 sts, turn. Rows 3-4: Sl 1 firmly, patt to last 8 sts, turn. Rows5-6:Sl1firmly,patttolast12sts, turn. Rows7-8:Sl1firmly,patt to last 16 sts, turn. Cont in this way, working 4 more sts in patt for each pair of rows, until 2 rows: Sl 1, patt to last 40 (40:44:44:48) sts, turn; havebeen worked. Next row: Sl 1 firmly, patt to end of row. Cast off loosely in yarn A. MAKING UP NECKBAND Join left shoulder. Using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, with RS facing, knit across 39 (41:45:47:51) sts BLOCKING DIAGRAM CHART KEY from back neck dec 3 sts evenly, pick up and knit 21 (23:23:24:25) sts evenly down left side of neck, knit across 29 (31:35:37:41) sts from front neck, pick up and knit 21 (23:23:24:25) sts evenly up right side of neck. 107 (115:123:129:139) sts. BreakyarnA.JoininyarnB. Purl 1 row. Work 2 rows in rib as for Front. BreakyarnB.JoininyarnA. Knit 1 row. Beg with row 2, work 4 rows in rib as for Front. Cast off evenlyinrib. FINISHING Join right shoulder and edges of neckband. Stitch cast-off edges of sleeves to upper side edges of back and front. Join side and sleeve seams. 50 (56:61:66:71) cm 4 9 c m 6 6 ( 6 7 : 6 7 : 6 8 : 6 9 ) c m The sweater is knitted in a bouncy merino DK yarn Piedmont The Knitter 49 Issue 149
The sleeves also feature the vertical stripe pattern Piedmont
MARTIN STOREY Ashmore A pretty lace stitch highlighted with tiny beads decorates this classic round-necked cardigan The Knitter Issue 149
MARTIN STOREY Ashmore BEADING NOTE Before starting to knit, thread the beads onto the yarn. To do this, thread a fine sewing needle(one that will easilypass through the beads) with sewing thread. Knot the ends of the thread, and then pass the end of the yarn through this loop. Thread a bead onto the sewing thread and then gently slide it along and onto the knitting yarn. Continue in this way until the required number of beads are on the yarn. Do not place beads on the edge stitches of rows, as this will interfere with seaming. PATTERN NOTE Take careto ensure eachdecrease ofthe pattern is matched by an increase. If there are insufficient stitches to work both, work end stitches of rows in stocking stitch. BACK Using2.75mm needles, cast on 113 (125:137:151:163) st s. Row 1 (RS): K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Row 2: P1, *K1, P1; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form rib. Cont in rib for a further 18 rows, ending withRSfacingfor next row. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg on stitch 26 (20:14:25:1) and ending on stitch 12 (18:24:13:37) of Chart, working chart rows 1 to 10 once only and then repeating chart rows 11 to 26 throughout, continpattfromchart asfolls: Cont straight until Back meas 31 (31:32:32: 32) cm, ending with RS facing for next row. SHAPE ARMHOLES Keeping patt correct, cast off 5 (6:7:8:9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 103 (113:123:135:145) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 (7:7:9:9) rows, then on foll 5 (6:7:7:8)alt rows. 83 (87:95:103:111) sts. Cont straight until armhole meas 19 (201⁄2:22:231⁄2:25) cm, ending with RS facing for next row. SHAPE SHOULDERS Keeping patt correct, cast off 3 (4:4:5:5) sts at beg of next 4 (6:6:6:4) rows, and then 4 (-:-:-:6) sts at beg of foll 2 (-:-:-:2) rows. 63 (63:71:73:79) sts. SHAPE BACK NECK Next row (RS): Cast off 4 (4:5:5:6) sts, patt until there are 11 (11:13 :14:15) st s on right needle and turn, leaving rem sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 rows, ending with RS facing for next row, andATTHESAMETIMEcast off 4 (4:5:5:6) sts at beg of 2nd row. Cast off rem 4 (4:5:6:6) sts. With RS facing, slip centre 33 (33:35:35:37) sts onto a holder (for neckband), rejoin yarnandpatt to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings. LEFT FRONT Using 2.75mm needles, cast on 60 (66:72:80:86) sts. Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Row 2: *K1, P1; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form rib. Cont in rib for a further 17 rows, ending with WS facing for next row. Row 20 (WS): Rib 9 and slip these sts onto a holder (for button band), M1, rib to last 1 (1:1:0:0) st, (inc in last st) 1 (1:1:0:0) time. 53 (59:65:72:78) sts . Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg on stitch 26 (20:14:25:1) and ending on stitch 24 of Chart, working chart rows 1 to 10 once only and then repeating chart rows 11 to 26 throughout, cont inpatt from chart as folls: Cont straight until Left Front matches Back to beg of armhole shaping, ending with RS facing for next row. THIS ROUND-NECKED cardigan features an all-over pine cone lace stitch pattern, and each pine cone motif is highlighted with a tiny bead. It has beendesignedby MartinStorey using Rowan’s new yarn, Island Blend Fine. This is a 4ply-weight blend of Falkland Islands merino, baby alpaca and silk, which has a super-soft and lightweight feel, along with a gentle sheen. SIZE TO FIT BUST 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22 24 -26 81-86 91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 in ACTUAL BUST 901⁄2 100 1091⁄2 121 1301⁄2 cm 353⁄4 391⁄4 43 473⁄4 511⁄2 in ACTUAL LENGTH 53 541⁄2 57 581⁄2 60 cm 203⁄4 211⁄2 221⁄2 23 231⁄2 in SLEEVE SEAM 45 45 46 46 46 cm 173⁄4 173⁄4 18 18 18 in YARN Rowan Island Blend Fine (4ply weight; 70% wool, 15% silk, 15% alpaca; 165m/180yds per 50g skein) POMPOUS 106 7 7 8 9 9 x50g SKEINS NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 2.75mm (UK 12/US 2) knitting needles 1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles Approx 200 (220:250:280: 300) beads 7 x 1.5 cm buttons Fine sewing needle Sewing thread Stitch holders TENSION 25 sts and 35 rows to 10cm over patt on 3.25mm needles YARN STOCKISTS Rowan 01484 668200 www.knitrowan.com The Knitter 52 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
SHAPE ARMHOLE Keeping patt correct, cast off 5 (6:7:8:9) sts atbeg of next row. 48 (53:58:64:69) sts. Work 1 row. Dec 1 st at armhole edge of next 5 (7:7:9:9) rows, then on foll 5 (6:7:7:8) alt rows. 38 (40:44:48:52) sts. Cont straight until 18 (18:22:22:26) rows lesshavebeen worked than onBack to beg of shoulder shaping, ending withRSfacing for next row. SHAPE FRONT NECK Next row (RS): Patt 34 (36:40:44:48) sts and turn, leaving rem 4 sts on a holder (for neckband). Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 6 rows, then on foll 4 alt rows, then on 0 (0:1:1:2) foll 4th rows. 24 (26:29:33:36) sts. Work 3rows, ending withRSfacingfor next row. SHAPE SHOULDER Keeping patt correct, cast off 3 (4:4:5:5) sts at beg of next and foll 1 (4:2:4:1) alt rows, then 4 (-:5:-:6) sts at beg of foll 3 (-:2:-:3) alt rows and AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at neck edge of next and foll 4th row. Work 1 row. Cast off rem 4 (4:5:6:6) sts. RIGHT FRONT Using2.75mm needles, cast on 60 (66:72:80:86) sts. BLOCKING DIAGRAM SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS bead 1: Place a bead by taking yarn to RS of work and slipping bead up next to stitch just worked, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle and take yarn back to WS of work, leaving bead sitting in front of slipped stitch on RS. For general abbreviations, see p89 5 3 ( 5 4 1⁄2 : 5 7 : 5 8 1⁄2 : 6 0 ) c m 451⁄4 (50:543⁄4:601⁄2:651⁄4) cm 4 5 ( 4 5 : 4 6 : 4 6 : 4 6 ) c m This design also appears in the Rowan pattern book Island Blend Fine, which has 20 garment and accessory patterns by Martin Storey, Lisa Richardson and Georgia Farrell. For details of your nearest stockist, call 01484 668200 or visit www.knitrowan.com The merino, baby alpaca and silk yarn is soft and lustrous Ashmore
1 3 5 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 KonRS;PonWS PonRS;KonWS yfwd yfrn yon Place bead on RS S2kpo Skpo K2tog Repeat Row 1 (RS): K2, *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Row 2: *P1, K1; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form rib. Cont in rib for 4 rows, ending with RS facing for next row. Row 7 (RS): K2, P1, Sl 1, K1, psso, yfwd (to make first buttonhole), rib to end. Work in rib for a further 12 rows, ending with WS facing for next row. Row 20 (WS): (Inc in first st) 1 (1:1:0:0) time, rib to last 9 sts, M1 and turn, leaving rem 9 sts on a holder (for buttonhole band). 53 (59:65:72:78) st s. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg on stitch 14 and ending on stitch 12 (18:24:13:37) of Chart, working chart rows 1to10 once only andthenrepeating chart rows 11 to 26 throughout, complete to match Left Front, reversing shapings and working first row of neck shaping as folls: SHAPE FRONT NECK Next row (RS): Break yarn. Slip first 4 sts onto a holder (for neckband), rejoi n yarn and patt to end. 34 (36:40:44:48) sts. SLEEVES Using 2.75mm needles, cast on 57 (61:63:63:65) sts. Work in rib as given for Back for 20 rows, ending withRSfacingfor next row. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg on stitch 18 (16:15:15:14)and ending on stitch20(22:23:23:24) of Chart, working chart rows 1 to 10 once only and then repeating chart rows 11 to 26 throughout, continpattfromchart asfolls: Inc 1 st at each end of 9th (9th:7th:7th:5th) and every foll 10th (10th:8th:8th:6th) row to81(85:71:91:71) sts, then on every foll – (-:10th:10th:8th) row until there are – (-:89:93:97) sts, taking inc sts into patt. Cont straight until Sleeve meas approx. 45 (45:46:46:46) cm, ending after same patt row as onBacktobegof armhole shaping and with RS facing for next row. SHAPE TOP Keeping patt correct, cast off 5 (6:7:8:9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 71 (73:75:77:79) sts . Dec1stateachendofnext3rows,thenon foll alt row, then on 6 foll 4th rows. 51 (53:55:57:59) sts. Work 1 row. Dec 1 st at each end of next and every foll alt row until 41 sts rem, then on foll 9 rows, ending withRSfacingfor next row. 23 sts. Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast off rem 15 sts. MAKING UP Block pieces gently, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Join both shoulder seams using back stitch, or mattress stitch if preferred. BUTTON BAND Slip 9 sts on left front button band holder onto 2.75mm needles and rejoin yarn with RS facing. Row 1 (RS): K2, (P1, K1) 3 times, K1. Row 2: K1, (P1, K1) 4 times. These 2 rows form rib. Cont in rib until band, when slightly stretched,fits upleftfront opening edge to neck shaping, ending withRSfacingfor next row. Break yarn and leave sts on a holder. Neatly sew bandinplace, then mark positions for 7 buttons on this band – the first to come level with the buttonhole already worked in the right front, the top buttonhole to come just above the neck shaping, and the remaini ng five buttons evenly spaced between. BUTTONHOLE BAND Slip 9 sts on right front buttonhole band holder onto 2.75mm needles and rejoin yarn with WS facing. Beg with row 2, work in rib as given for Button Band and complete to match Button Band, with the addition of a further 5 buttonholes worked to match positions marked for buttons as folls: Buttonhole row (RS): K2, P1, Sl 1, K1, psso, yfwd (to make a buttonhole), K1, P1, K2. Whenbandis complete, ending withRS facing for next row, do NOT break yarn. Neatly sew this band in place. NECKBAND With RS facing and using 2.75mm needles, rib across 9 sts of buttonhole band, then knit 4 sts on right front holder, pick up and knit 24 (24:27:27:30) sts up right side of front neck, and 3 sts down right side of back neck, knit across 33 (33:35:35:37) sts on back holder, pick up and knit 3 sts up left side of back neck, and 24 (24:27:27:30) sts down left side of front neck, knit across 4 sts on left front holder, then rib across 9 sts of button band. 113 (113:121:121:129) st s. Row 1 (WS): K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Row 2: K2, P1, Sl 1, K1, psso, yfwd (to make 7th buttonhole), K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, K1. Row3:Asrow1. Row 4: K2, *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, K1. Row5:Asrow1. Cast off in rib. FINISHING Placecentre of cast-off edge of sleeve to shoulder seam. Set in sleeve, easing sleevehead into armhole. Join side and sleeve seams. Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes. CHART KEY Ashmore The Knitter 54 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
BRIOCHE KNITTING is one of those glorious tech niques that looks amazingly professional yet is pretty straightforward to knit - once you get to grips with the special termi nology and process. The fabric produced is soft, airy, squidgy, incredibly warm and light, yet not too bulky. One-colour brioche is immensely satisfying, and with two-colour brioche you can create elegantly meandering ribs of colour that are so satisfying to knit. Although some designers incorporate brioche stitch into garments, some of the best patterns we have seen use innovative stitch patterns to create amazing effects on shawls, scarves and other accessories. Brioche’s beginnings The roots of brioche knitting aren’t very clear. It first appeared in publications by Miss Frances Lambert in the early 1840s, including My Knitting Book from 1843, which you can read in a digital version on the Gutenberg.org website. Miss Lambert talks about ‘a Brioche’, a kind of cushion that resembles the French sweet bread that we know today, which is probably where the name for this technique stems from. According to Mary Thomas’ Book of Knitting Patterns it was also know has Shawl Stitch, Oriental Rib Stitch, and Point Angleterre (English Stitch) – in some parts of Europe it is still known as English Rib. The knitting luminary, Elizabeth Zimmermann, described it as Pri me Rib. Brioche knitting gives you a ribbed fabric by only working every other stitch on each row and slipping the others with a yarnover in the case of one-colour brioche. In two-colour brioche, you knit a stitch and then slip the next stitch with a yarnover in your first colour. Then you make a second pass, where you slip the knitted stitch with a yarnover and purl the stitch that you slipped in the previous row together with its companion yarnover. It is the knitting or purling of the yarnovers with their stitches that create the bulky softness of this fabric. Expert advice Over the years there developed many different abbreviations for how to achieve different brioche stitches, but it wasn’t until 2010, with the publication of Nancy Marchant’s Knitting Brioche, that the terms became more standardised. Nancy championed the ‘barks’ and ‘burps’ that we know today (brk or ‘bark’ is Brioche knit, and brp or ‘burp’ is Brioche purl). Nancy explains that in her research she found brioche knitting was used across Northern Europe, and she herself was taught by friends in the Netherlands who had four different methods of creating the same stitch. Her hard work has made this wonderful technique more accessible to knitters of all levels. When working brioche, you will need to carefully check your tension and, if you aren’t starting with a rib, make sure you use a very elastic cast-on and cast-off to accommodate the stretchy nature of the fabric you are producing. Nancy’s excel lent book covers these i n detail. The beauty of Brioche Juliet Bernard explores the story of brioche knitting, and speaks with leading designers working with this technique FEATURE P I C T U R E D : ‘ A I X ’ A N D ‘ R E D K I T E ’ B Y N A N C Y M A R C H A N T . P H O T O G R A P H Y : A L E X A N D R A F E O The Knitter 55 Issue 149
LESLEY ANNE ROBINSON If you have ever browsed the lists of brioche stitch patterns on Ravelry, you are sure to have come across Lesley’s amazingly colourful designs. Working under the name Knit Graffiti, it is her love and curiosity of brioche knitting that drove her to start designing, with her first knitwear pattern being published just over four years ago. “In late 2014, I discovered brioche knitting when it was first beginning to become popular,” s ays Lesley. “I wanted to know everything there was to know about it, and immediately got Nancy Marchant’s just-published book, Knitting Fresh Brioche. I was completely taken in - I was fascinated by the technique!” she explains. Her designs include stunning shawls in all sorts of shapes and sizes, chic hats, and elegant garments. Lesley describes her way of working as being “i n the moment”; she becomes absorbed in the process of working out her ideas, and loves seeing the finished results. Two of her favourite designs are ‘Sizzle Pop’, her first shawl, and ‘Rebel’: “Rebel was one of those designs that I was inspired to cast on immediately, and from initial sketch to finished object it just flowed off my needles,” she says. Lesley feels her greatest achievement is building a one-woman business while raising two young children. “It’s lovely to be able to make my own schedule and be my own boss, but the balance of work/mom life is rea l! However, I love being able to show my two sons that following their dreams is so important, and that they can do anything they set their mi nd to,” she says. www.knitgraffiti.com NANCY’S TOP TIP: “If you’ve never knitted brioche, then you need to realize that there is a learning curve. Brioche is a pair of stitches; one stitch is worked, and the other stitch is slipped with a yarnover. You need to practice the stitch until you feel its rhythm; until you no longer need to think about how you slip the stitch for a sl1yo.” LESLEY ANNE’S TOP TIP: “Be patient and kind to yourself! I always tell anyone who is learning brioche knitting that it is like learning a new language. Brioche abbreviations and chart symbols are unlike any other in the knitting world, and may take time to recognize and memorize.” NANCY MARCHANT Nancy Marchant is affectionately known as the Queen Mother of Brioche, and has studied the nuances of this European stitch for more than 20 years. Her books are essential reading for anyone using this technique. Nancy’s inspirational design portfolio is filled with beautiful brioche patterns. She has always been creative, having learnt to knit at a young age. “My mother had subscriptions to k nitting magazines, and if I found something that I wanted to make, I had to redesign it in order to use the materials that were available to me,” Nancy recalls. “Then, while I was at it, I would change the neck or add a colour. I grew up designing without realizing it.” Nancy’s work is i nfluenced by textile techniques from al l over the world, taking inspiration from “how we humans adorn ourselves with cloth, how that cloth is created and decorated,” she explains. She particularly likes brioche stitch because it offers so much potential for development and innovation, and she says she is still finding out new ways to manipulate and work with it and other tuck stitches. Nancy’s explorations into the possibilities of brioche are presented in a range of books, including Knitting Brioche, Knitting Brioche Lace, and Leafy Brioche. Does she have a favourite from her extensive portfolio? “I do like the ‘Meadowsweet’ shawl from Knitting Brioche Lace,” she says. “I struggled with that design - I was making sample after sample but couldn’t get it right. I was teaching in Finland at the Jyväskylä Knit Fest when the answer hit me. I really like the end result.” www.briochestitch.com P H O T O G R A P H Y : A L E X A N D R A F E O © L E S L E Y A N N E R O B I N S O N Brioche Focus The Knitter 56 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
CAROL FELLER Irish designer Carol Feller is much admired around the world thanks to her beautiful knitwear patterns and her sophisticated range of yarns, Stolen Stitches. Her brioche designs are typically elegant and thoughtful. As with so many knitters, it was Nancy Marchant who inspired Carol to try out brioche. “Several years ago, I met Nancy, and I was fascinated that this was the only stitch that she worked with!” recalls Carol. “I loved the fact that you could create knitted fabric that looked like ribbing, but with the two colours combined in vertical columns. “I bought Nancy’s book, Explorations in Brioche Knitting, and I began swatching. When learni ng a new stitch I mainly swatch in a single colour, then two colours, and then a bit of lace. Once I felt I understood the construction of brioche, I began experimenting.” For Carol, the most amazing thing about brioche is that even simple stitches look astonishing, as the results are so dramatic. She encourages knitters to start with one-colour brioche, and then introduce a second colour when they have mastered the basic stitch. “It takes a little while to get used to the rhythm of the stitch. It’s not difficult, but it needs practice to feel comfortable with it and recognise the new stitch construction.” Carol’s personal favou rite brioche design is her ‘Vines and Vale’ shawl. “It falls into my favourite category of patterns: less is more! There is only a small edge lace panel, but this allows the all-over brioche to shine.” www.stolenstitches.com CAROL’S TOP TIP: “Swatch! Do a really narrow swatch, working from single colour to two-colour, and practice fixing mistakes so that you’re not terrified when your brioche gets messed up!” STEPHEN WEST Some of the most extraordinary brioche designs you will come across have been created by Stephen West. He has earned worldwide popularity thanks to his knitting patterns, which are a perfect marriage of extraordinary colour combinations and elegant, structural engineering. Stephen was already modifying knitting patterns when he was in high school and college: “I loved a lot of women’s sweater patterns, but I had to adjust the size and patterning to fit my larger frame,” he explains. Reading Elizabeth Zimmermann’s books helped give him the confidence to play with knitting from scratch and start to design his own patterns. The way he brings brioche into his designs, often combining it with other textures, makes each design a knitted adventure. “I love how sophisticated the stitch looks - it’s reversible and squishy, so it’s very pleasing to watch the fabric grow,” Stephen says. “Brioche has a unique rhythm to it as well, which I find calmi ng.” Stephen soaks up inspiration on his travels around the world, and particularly loves to walk round Reykjavik in Iceland and Tokyo in Japan. “They are drastically different environments, but I love the colours and activity in each city. I get a lot of styling and garment proportion ideas while people-watching.” Stephen’s spectacular range of designs includes not only brioche stitch, but lace, stranded colourwork, cables, short-row stripes: his creativity is boundless. One of his personal favourites is his ‘Dotted Rays Shawl’. “It’s so simple and fun to knit. It features a simple way of doing short rows where you accentuate each short row turn with a double yarnover. You can knit it with any yarn weight, and it looks great as a solid shawl or with stripes or a fading colour palette.” www.westknits.com STEPHEN’S TOP TIP: “ Always carry your knitting with you. You never know when you can sneak in a few rows. Every moment helps finish a project. If you wait until the right time to knit, you may never finish a project.” P H O T O G R A P H Y : J O S E P H F E L L E R P H O T O G R A P H Y : D A R R E N S M I T H Brioche Focus The Knitter 57 Issue 149
JULIET BERNARD Fire Dance PATTERN NOTE Formoredetailedguidanceonbrioche knitting, see our Masterclasses in Issues 104 and 105, or read the articles online at www.gathered.how/knitting-and- crochet/knitting/how-to-knit-brioche- stitch/ STITCH PATTERN MAIN PATTERN Round1:UsingyarnB, *K1, sl1yo; rep from * to end of round. Round 2: Using yarn A, *sl1yo, brp; rep from * to end of round. Round 3: Using yarn B, *brk, sl1yo; rep from * to end of round. Rounds 4-7: Rep Rounds 2-3 twice more. Round 8: Rep Round 2. Round9:UsingyarnB, *(brk, sl1yo) 4 times, brLsl dec, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, brkyobrk, sl1yo; rep from * to end of round. Rounds 10-11: Rep Round s 2-3 . Round 12: Rep Round 2. Round13:UsingyarnB, *(brk, sl1yo)3 times, brLsl dec, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, brkyobrk, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo; rep from * to end of round. Rounds 14-15: Rep Rounds 2-3 . Round 16: Rep Round 2. Round17:UsingyarnB, *(brk, sl1yo) twice, brLsl dec, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, brkyobrk, (sl1yo, brk) twice, sl1yo. Rounds 18-19: Rep Round s 2-3 . Round 20: Rep Round 2. Round 21: Using yarn B, *brk, sl1yo, brLsl dec, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, brkyobrk, (sl1yo, brk) 3 times, sl1yo; rep from * to end of round. Rounds 22-31: Rep Rounds 2-3 five times. Round 32: Rep Round 2. COWL Using yarn A and 3mm circular needles, 60cm long, cast on 256 sts. Pmandjoin to workin the round, taking care not to twist sts. BOTTOM EDGE Rib round: *K1, P1; rep from * to end of round. This round sets rib. Rep rib round 7 more times. BEGIN CHART Join in yarn B. Repeating sts 16 times around, workRows 1-32 ofMainPattern from the chart or written instructions, then rep only Rows 3-30 of Main Pattern. Break yarn B and cont in yarn A only. TOP EDGE Rep rib round 8 times using yarn A. Cast off. Weave in ends and gently block to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. THIS LONG cowl demonstrates the beautiful branching patterns that can be achieved with two-colour brioche. Juliet Bernard has used a simple shape to allow knitters to focus on working the fundamental brioche stitches; the cowl is reversible, and can be worn wrapped twice around your neck. Juliet’s sampleis knittedin two highly contrasting shades of West Yorkshire Spinners’ Wensleydale G ems wool. CHART SIZE 116cm x 17cm (453⁄4in x 63⁄4in) YARN West Yorkshire Spinners Wensleydale Gems (DK weight; 100% wool; 225m/246yds per 100g skein) A Granite (181); 1 x 100g skein B Fire Opal (427); 1 x 100g skein NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) circular needles, 80cm long Stitch marker TENSION 22 sts and 46 rounds to 10cm over Main Pattern on 3mm needles YARN STOCKISTS West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS sl1yo: With yarn held forward, slip the next stitch with the yarn over the needle. Note that the yarnover does not add to the stitch count, and should always be worked with its stitch in following rounds. brk: Bark/brioche knit – knit the stitch that was slipped in the previous row together with its yo. brp: Burp/brioche purl – purl the stitch that was slipped in the previous row together with its yo. brkyobrk: Knit the stitch that was slipped in the previous row together with its yo but leave it on the needle, bring yarn forward under the RH needle then over to the back, then knit the stitch again. 2 sts inc’d. brLsl dec: Slip next stitch knitwise with its yo, knit next stitch and pass first stitch and yo over. Return this stitch to the left-hand needle and slip the next stitch and its yo over it, before returning it to the right-hand needle. 2 sts dec’d. For general abbreviations, see p89 5 10 15 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 KEY sl1yo Knit brp brk brLsl dec brkyobrk No stitch Yarn A Yarn B The Knitter 58 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
The cowl can be worn long or wrapped twice around the neck Fire Dance
SIÂN BROWN Ptarmigan Cushion This handsome cushion features a cable stitch pattern worked in a tweedy yarn The Knitter Issue 149
Cont working from Chart until Front measures 40cm, ending with RS facing for next row. Next row (RS): P to mark edge, dec 10 sts evenly across row. 74 sts. OVERLAP Work 10cm in st st, starting with a P row. Fold over and check that the sts on the needle sit just above the cast-on edge. Iftheydo not, continst st untiltheydo, ending withWSfacingfor next row. BUTTONHOLE BAND Row 1 (WS): *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (RS): *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Row3:Workinmossstfor6 sts, *K2tog,yo, work 13 sts in moss st; rep from * another 3 times, K2tog, yo, work 6 sts in moss st. Row4:Asrow2. Row5:Asrow1. Cast off. MAKING UP Sew the sideseams, overlapping so that the moss st sectionslineup andsothatthe buttonhole section will end up on the top. Sew on the buttons to correspond with the buttonholes. SIZE 40cm x 40cm (153⁄4 x 153⁄4in) YARN West Yorkshire Spinners The Croft Shetland Tweed (Aran weight; 100% wool; 166m/182yds per 100g skein) Stonybreck (759); 2 x 100g skeins NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 5mm (UK 6/US 8) knitting needles 40cm square cushion pad 5 x 20mm buttons Cable needle (cn) TENSION 18stsand24rowsto10cmoverstston 5mm needles YARN STOCKISTS West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS T3B: Slip 1 st onto cn and hold at back of work, K2, then P1 from cn. T3F: Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at front of work, P1, then K2 from cn. For general abbreviations, see p89 ATWEEDYShetland woolbrings an appealingly rusticlookto thefabric of this cushion by Siân Brown. The cable pattern combines zigzags and colum ns to produce a lattice effect. The cushion is knitted in one piece, starting and finishing with the moss stitchbutton bands, and working the back sections inplain stocking stitch and the front in the textured pattern. CUSHION BACK Using 5mm needles, cast on 74 sts. Row 1 (WS): *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (RS): *P1, K1; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form moss st. Rep until 5 rows of moss st have been worked in total. Starting withaK row, continst st until Back meas 30cm from cast-on edge, ending withRSfacingfor next row. Next rows (RS): P to mark edge, inc 10 sts evenly acros s row. 84 sts. FRONT Working from Chart, starting with a WS row, patt 2 end sts, work 16-st rep 5 times across row, patt 2 end sts. The Knitter 61 Issue 149 Ptarmigan Cushion
WEST YORKSHIRE SPINNERS is marking the start of the spring-summer season with the launch of two new yarns – and both have been designed to offer knitters sophisticated, British-spun luxury. The first new arrival is Bo Peep Pure, which joins the Bo Peep family alongside the existing DK and 4ply ranges. These two are a blend of Falkland Islands wool with nylon; Bo Peep Pure, however, is a 100% Falkland wool in a DK-weight. “Producing a 100% Falkland yarn seemed the perfect choice to grow our Bo Peep and Falkland families,” explains Rhiannon Evans, marketing manager at West Yorkshire Spinners. “The demand for pure, sustai nable products is growing. Falkland Islands wool is clean, white, and world-renowned for its sustainability and soft handle. We’ve spun Bo Peep Pure with exceptional care and attention to detail, to create a sumptuously soft yarn for hand knitting.” Bo Peep Pure comes in 50g/112m skeins, and costs £6.50 per skein. It’s available in a lovely palette of eight shades, including dandelion yellow, blush pink, misty grey, and soft green. “We were inspired by vintage hues for this playful yet mature collection,” Rhiannon explains. “We wanted the shades to be subtle enough to give a nod to the beautiful colours found in nature, with enough depth to provide knitters with inspiration and joy.” Pure has been launched as a luxury baby yarn, but it is also suitable for adults’ garments and accessories, and will knit up into soft, comfortable, classic pieces. “We’ve already seen our customers and designers curating their own colour selections for Fair Isle and colourwork pieces,” reports Rhiannon. To showcase the new yarn, the Keighley-based company Pure delight The arrival of two luxurious new yarns from West Yorkshire Spinners is a treat for knitters Bo Peep Pure comes in eight vintage shades The Knitter 62 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter New yarns
commissioned designer Jenny Watson to put together a book of baby patterns. Bo Peep Pure Collection One offers heirloom pieces for little ones, including a charming bobbled dress with bloomers, vintage-style moss stitch jackets, everyday sweaters, and a lacy cardigan. ‘Jack and Jill’ are gorgeous all-in-one romper suits, and ‘William’ is a cabled sweater with matching leggings. There are accessories, too, such as bonnets, hats, bootees and mittens. Exquisitely soft West Yorkshire Spinners’ Exquisite Lace has long been one of our favourite laceweight yarns, thanks to its wonderful gleam, its handle and stitch definition – so we were delighted to hear the company’s plans for a 4ply version. “The fibre blend of Exquisite Lace, which is 80% Falkland Islands wool and 20% mulberry silk, is also used in Exquisite 4ply,” says Rhiannon. “This blend creates perfect stitch definition with a beautiful drape and sheen. Exquisite 4ply’s point of difference is the shade range. It has a new palette of eight opulent colours including Bordeaux, a deep berry red, and Tuscany, a bold yellow.” The yarn costs £14.75 for a 100g/400m skein. We’ll be bringing you exclusive new designs using Exquisite 4ply, including an elegant tunic from Jennie Atkinson in Issue 151, but in the meantime, if you want to try out this lovely yarn, take a look at the collection by Chloe Elizabeth Birch. The Exquisite 4ply book contains lightweight jumpers and accessories. “Chloe’s stylish, contemporary and wearable pieces are suitable for casual day dressi ng or smart evening wear, adding a touch of luxury to any outfit.” - To find out more and to order yarns and pattern books, visit www.w yspinners.com or call 01535 664500 Exquisite 4ply is showcased in a collection of elegant patterns The Knitter 63 Issue 149
MARY HENDERSON Malhamdale This short-sleeved jumper uses two lace and cable patterns worked in contrasting colours The Knitter Issue 149
The back is longer than the front, and the lower side seams are split Malhamdale
MARY HENDERSON Malhamdale PATTERN NOTES The jumper begins with the back and front cable ribs worked separately in rows, then joined to work the cable plait section in the round to the armholes. The back is worked first in rows, then the front is worked with the neck shaping. The shoulders are knitted together using a three-need le cast-off. Stitches are picked up around the neck and from stitches held at the front and back; the neckisfinished withani-cord cast-off. Stitches are picked up around the armhole to knit the sleeves downwards in the round, finishing with an i-cord cast-off. STITCH PATTERNS CHART A (multiple of 11 sts + 9) Set-up row (WS): K3, P3, *K2, P4, K2, P3; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3. Row 1 (RS): K3, *K1, P1, K1, P2, K4, P2; rep from * to last 6 sts, K1, P1, K4. Row 2 (WS): K3, P3, *K2, P4, K2, P3; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3. Row 3: K3, *K1, P1, K1, P2, C4B, P2; rep from * to last 6 sts, K1, P1, K4. Row 4: K3, P3, *K2, P4, K2, P3; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3. Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern. CHART B (multiple of 11 sts + 8) Row 1 (RS): P1, K1, *yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, C4F, K2; rep from * to last 6 sts, yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, K1. Row 2 (WS): Purl. Row 3: P1, K1, *K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K3, C4B; rep from * to last 6 sts, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2. Row 4: Purl. Repeat these 4 rows for pattern. CHART C (multiple of 11 sts + 5) Round 1: K1, *K1, P1, K1, P2, K4, P2; rep from * to last 4 sts, K1, P1, K2. Rounds 2 and 4: P1, *K3, P2, K4, P2; rep from * to last 4 sts, K3, P1. Round 3: K1, *K1, P1, K1, P2, C4B, P2; rep from * to last 4 sts, K1, P1, K2. I-CORD CAST-OFF Using 3.5mm needles, cast on 1 st to beg of row/rnd, *K1, K2tog tbl, slip these 2 sts back to LH needle; rep from * until only 2 sts of i-cord rem. Cast off and cut yarn, leaving a 5cm tail. Join ends. CABLE RIB BACK Using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, and the long-tail cast-on method, cast on 119 (130:143 :156:169:185) sts. Set-up row (WS): P0 (0:1:2:3:0), wo rk set-up row 1 of Chart A to last 0 (0:1:2:3:0) sts, P0 (0:1:2:3:0). Cont in Chart A patt, repeating Rows 1-4 only, and st st each end of row as set for another 27 rows, ending after row 3 of patt. Set aside. FRONT Using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, and the long-tail cast-on method, cast on 119 (130:143 :156:169:185) sts. Set-up row (WS): P0 (0:1:2:3:0), wo rk set-up row 1 of Chart A to last 0 (0:1:2:3:0) sts, P0 (0:1:2:3:0). Cont in Chart A patt, repeating Rows 1-4 onlyandststateachendofrowassetfor another 19 rows, ending after row 3 of patt. BODY With RS facing and using 3.5mm circular needles and yarn B, working across Back sts: K1(1:2:3:4:1), K2tog,patt to end,pm; work across Front sts: K1 (1:2:3:4:1), K2tog, patt to end. Pmandjointo workinthernd,taking care not to twist sts. 236 (258:284:310:336:368) sts; 118 (129:142: 155:168 :184) sts each for front and back. “I WA S inspired by built structures when designi ng this colourblock top: the lace is reminiscent of bridge cables, and the plaited cables are the support pillars,” explains Mary Henderson. “Rowan Felted Tweed gives a flexible handle and softness to the design, so it is a comfortable garment to wear. It begins with separate front and back borders to givesidevents, andis then joined to workin the round.Theshort sleeves are worked from the shoulders down, and the neck and sleeves use an i-cord cast-off for a neat finish.” NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES Two 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 40cm long 1 set 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) double-pointed needles (DPNs) 3.5mm (UK 9-10/US 4) circular needles, 80cm long 3.5mm (UK 9-10/US 4) circular needles, 40cm long Cable needle (cn) Stitch holders Stitch markers YARN STOCKISTS Rowan 01484 668200 w ww.knitrowan.com SIZE TO FIT BUST S M L 1XL 2XL 3XL 76 861⁄2 961⁄2 1061⁄2 117 127 cm 303438424650 in ACTUAL BUST 9199109119129142cm 353⁄4394347 51 553⁄4 in ACTUAL LENGTH AT BACK 474850 51 54 551⁄2 cm 181⁄219191⁄220211⁄4213⁄4in SLEEVE SEAM 16 16 16 16 16 16 cm 61⁄461⁄461⁄461⁄461⁄461⁄4in YARN Rowan Felted Tweed (DK weight; 50% wool, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose; 175m/191yds per 50g ball) A AVOCADO (161) 3 3 4 4 5 5 x50g BALLS B MINERAL (181) 3 3 3 4 4 4 x50g BALLS The Knitter 66 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
BEGIN CHART B Rnd 1: *K0 (0:1:2:3:0), work rnd 1 of Chart B to 0 (0:1:2:3:0) sts before mrk, working chart repeat 10 (11:1 2:13:14:16) times, K0 (0:1:2:3:0); rep from * once more. Cont in patt as set until a total of 71 rnds in Chart B patt havebeen worked ordesired length to underarm, ending after rnd 3 of chart patt. Work meas approx. 20cmfrombeg ofChart B. DIVIDE FOR FRONT AND BACK Break yarn. Slip (do not knit) first 6 (6:8:9:11:15) sts and last 6 (6:8:9:11:15) sts of rnd to holder for underarm. Slip sts until 6 (6:8:9:1 1:15) sts rem before next mrk, slip next 12 (12:16:18:22:30) sts to holder. 106 (117:126:137:146:154) sts rem each for front and back. Place front sts on separate holder and cont on sts for back only. Note: Work any partial repeats in patt where possible, making sure to keep stitch count correct. BACK Joi n ya r n to 106 (117:126:137:146:154) sts heldforBack withWSfacing. Starting with row 4 of chart B, cont in Chart B patt over these sts until work meas approx. 6cm from underarm, ending after row 3 (RS) of chart. ChangetoyarnA. Nextrow(WS):Purltolast st,M1P,P1. 107 (118:127:138:147:155) sts. BEGIN CABLE RIB Row 1 (RS): Starting with stitch 7 (7:8:8:9:5) of chart, work row 1 of Chart A to end, ending after stitch 14 (14:13 :13:12:5).* * Cont in patt for another 31 (35:39:43:51:55) rows, ending after row 4 of chart. Break yarn and place sts on holder. FRONT Work asforBackto **. Cont in patt for another 11 (15:15:19:23:27) rows, ending after row 4 of chart. SHAPE LEFT NECK Row 1 (RS): Patt 32 (36:41:45:50:54), K2tog, K2, turn. Continpatt,dec1 st at neckedge as set every RS row another 9 (9:11:11:13:13) times, then work 1WS rowinpatt. 26 (30:33:37:40:44) sts. Break yarn and place sts on holder. SHAPE RIGHT NECK: Place 35 (38:37:40:39:39) sts for centre front neck on holder. WithRSfacing,joinyarnto rem 36 (40:45:49:54:58) sts and K2, SSK, patt to end. Continpatt,dec1 st at neckedge as set every RS row another 9 (9:11:11:13:13) times, then work 1WS rowinpatt. 26 (30:33:37:40:44) sts. WithRStog,join shoulders using the three-needle cast-off. SLEEVES (both alike) Using 3.5mm circular needles, 40cm Malhamdale The Knitter 67 Issue 149
long, a nd yarn A, K6 (6:8:9:11:15) from underarm holder, pm, K6 (6:8:9:11:15) from underarm holder, pick up and knit 40 (46:49:54:57:64) sts to shoulder seam, 1 st in seam, then 40 (45:49:53:57:64)sts to underarm; K6 (6:8:9:11:15) to beg of rnd mrk. 93 (104:115:126:137:159) sts. Rnd1:Workrnd1ofChartCtoend. Cont in patt as set until work meas 14cm from underarm, ending after rnd 4 of chart. Change to 3.25mm DPNs. Dec rnd: K1, *s2kpo, P2, K4, P2; rep from * to last 4 sts, s2kpo, K1. 75 (84:93:102:111:129) sts. Next rnd: P1, *K1, P2, K4, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Next rnd: K1, *K1, P2, C4B, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Next rnd: P1, *K1, P2, K4, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Next rnd: K1, *K1, P2, K4, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Next rnd: P1, *K1, P2, K4, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Work ani-cord cast-off(seePattern Notes). MAKING UP NECKBAND Using 3.25mm circular needles, 40cm long, and yarnA, starting atleftshoulder seam, pick up and knit 21 (18:17:25:24:24) sts down left neck, pm, patt 35 (38:37:40: 39:39) sts of holder, pm, pick up and knit 21 (18:17:25:24:24) sts to shoulder seam, pm, patt across 55(58:61:64:67:67)stsof back holder. 132 (132:132:154:15 4:154) sts. Round1:Starting with stitch 11(7:14:10:6: 6) of chart, work rnd 1 of Chart A to mrk, slm,workrnd1ofChartAinpattassetby back neck sts to end. Cont in patt for 5 rnds more, ending after rnd 2 of chart. Work ani-cord cast-off. FINISHING Weave in ends. Block garment gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. I-cord cast-offs give a neat finish Malhamdale
JODY LONG Shea Sheep Moss stitch intarsia sheep gambol across this V-neck cardigan for children The Knitter Issue 149
SIZE TO FIT CHEST 0-6 mths 6-12 mths 1-2 yrs 2-3 yrs 4-5 yrs 41-43 44-451⁄2 48-53 53-56 581⁄2-61 cm 16-17 171⁄2-18 19-21 21-22 23-24 in ACTUAL CHEST 51 56 60 65 70 cm 20 22 231⁄2 251⁄2 271⁄2 in ACTUAL LENGTH 24 26 28 32 36 cm 91⁄2 101⁄4 11 121⁄2 141⁄4 in SLEEVE SEAM 15 17 20 24 29 cm 6 61⁄2 8 91⁄2 111⁄2 in YARN Ella Rae Cashmereno (Sport weight; 55% wool, 12% cashmere, 33% acrylic; 125m/136yds per 50g ball) A SYCAMORE (28) 3 4 5 6 7 x50g BALLS Plus 1 x 50g ball of each: B Melanite (01); C Ivory (13) JODY LONG Shea Sheep BACK Using 3mm needles and yarn B, cast on 66 (70:78:82:90) sts. Row 1 (RS): *K2, P2; repfrom * to last 2 sts, K2. Row 2 (WS): *P2, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. These 2 rows form rib. Cut off yarn B and join in yarn A. Cont in rib using yarn A only for a further 6 (6:8:8:10) rows, inc 0 (1:0:1:0) st at each end of last row and ending with RS facing for next row. 66 (72:78:84:90) sts. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg with a K row, work in st st until Back meas 14(15:16:19:22) cm, ending withRS faci ng for next row. SHAPE ARMHOLES Cast off 3 (3:3:4:4) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 60 (66:72:76:82) sts. Next row (RS): K2, Sl 1, K1, psso, K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows 3 (4:5:5:6) times more, ending withRSfacingfor next row. 52 (56:60:64:68) sts. Cont straight until armhole meas 10 (11:12: 13:14) cm, ending withRSfacingfor next row. SHAPE SHOULDERS Cast off6(6:7:7:8)sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 6 (7:7:8:8) sts at beg of following 2 rows. Cut off yarn and leave rem 28 (30:32:34:36) sts on a holder (for front border). LEFT FRONT Using 3mm needles and yarn B, cast on 31 (35:35:39:43) sts. Row 1 (RS): *K2, P2; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3. Row 2: K1, *P2, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. These 2 rows form rib. Cut off yarnB andjoininyarnA. Cont in rib using yarn A only for a further 5 (5:7:7:9) rows, ending with WS facing for next row. Next row (WS): Rib to end, -(dec:i nc:inc:-) - (1:2:1:0) sts evenly across row. 31 (34:37:40:43) sts. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg with a K row, work in st st for 2 (4:4:6:6) rows, ending withRSfacingfor next row. PLACE CHART Row 1(RS): K3(5:8:11:14), work across next 26 sts of Left Front Chart, K2 (3:3:3:3). Row2:P2(3:3:3:3), work across next 26 sts of Left Front Chart, P3 (5:8:11:14). These 2 rows set position of chart. Cont as set until all 22 rows of Left Front Chart are completed, ending with RS facing for next row. Cont in st st until Left Front matches Back to start of armhole shaping, ending with RS faci ng for next row. SHAPE ARMHOLE AND FRONT SLOPE Cast off 3 (3:3:4:4) sts at beg of next row. 28 (31:34:36:39) sts. Next row: Purl. Next row (RS): K2, Sl 1, K1, psso, K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows 3 (4:5:5:6) times more, ending withRSfacingfor next row. 20 (21:22:24:25) st s. Next row (RS): K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows 7 (7:7:8:8) times more, ending withRSfacingfor next row. 12 (13:14:15:16) st s. Cont straight until Left Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with RS faci ng for next row. SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off 6 (6:7:7:8) sts at beg of next row. THE SHEEP on the front of this cardigan are just adorable! Moss stitch gives them a textured feel, and they’re worked using the intarsia method. The cuffs, hems and bands are knitted in a contrasting colour yarn for a preppy look. The project is si zed to fit little ones agedfrombirthtofiveyears, andithas beendesignedinEllaRae’s smooth, comfortable Cashmereno yarn. The Knitter 70 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
Work 1 row. Cast off rem 6 (7:7:8:8) sts. RIGHT FRONT Using 3mm needles and yarn B, cast on 31 (35:35:39:43) sts. Row 1 (RS): K1, *K2, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Row 2:* P2, K2; rep from * to last 3 sts, P2, K1. These 2 rows form rib. Cut off yarn B and join in yarn A. Cont in rib using yarn A only for a further 5 (5:7:7:9) rows, ending with WS facing for next row. Next row (WS): Rib to end, -(dec:inc:inc:-) - (1:2:1:0) sts evenly across row. 31 (34:37:40:43) sts. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg with a K row, work in st st for 2 (4:4:6:6) rows, ending with RS facing for next row. PLACE CHART Row1(RS):K2(3:3:3:3), work across next 26 sts of Right Front Chart, K3 (5:8:11:14). Row2:P3(5:8:11:14), work across next 26 sts of Right Front Chart, P2 (3:3:3:3). These 2 rows set position of chart. Cont as set until all 22 rows of Right Front Chart are completed, ending with RS faci ng for next row. Cont in st st until Right Front matches Back to start of armhole shaping, ending with WS facing for next row. SHAPE ARMHOLE AND FRONT SLOPE Cast off 3 (3:3:4:4) sts at beg of next row. 28 (31:34:36:39) sts. Next row (RS): K2, Sl 1, K1, psso, K to last BLOCKING DIAGRAM 4 sts, K2tog, K2. Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows 3 (4:5:5:6) times more, ending withRSfacingfor next row. 20 (21:22:24:25) st s. Next row (RS): K2, Sl 1, K1, psso, K to end. Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows 7 (7:7:8:8) times more, ending withRSfacingfor next row. 12 (13:14:15:16) st s . Cont straight until Right Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with WS facing for next row. SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off 6 (6:7:7:8) sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row. Cast off rem 6 (7:7:8:8) sts. SLEEVES Using 3mm needles and yarn B, cast on 34 (34:38:38:42) sts. Row 1 (RS): *K2, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Row 2: *P2, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. These 2 rows form rib. Cut off yarnB andjoininyarnA. Cont in rib using yarn A only for a further 6 (6:8:8:10) rows, inc 0 (2:0:2:0) sts at each end of last row and ending with RS facing for next row. 34 (36:38:40:42) sts. Change to 3.25mm needles. BegwithaKrow,work6rowsinstst, ending withRSfacingfor next row. Next row (RS): K3, M1, K to last 3 sts, M1, K3. Working all sleeve seam increases as set by last row, inc1 st at each end of every4th NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 pair 3mm (US 2-3/UK 11) knitting needles 1 pair 3.25mm (US 3/UK 10) knitting needles 4 buttons Stitch holders TENSION 25stsand34rowsto10cmoverstston 3.25mm needles YARN STOCKISTS Ella Rae c/o Knitting Fever www.knittingfever.com Available in the UK from Wool Warehouse 01926 882 818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk 251⁄2 (28:30:321⁄2:35) cm 1 5 ( 1 7 : 2 0 : 2 4 : 2 9 ) c m 2 4 ( 2 6 : 2 8 : 3 2 : 3 6 ) c m Shea Sheep The Knitter 71 Issue 149
Terms & conditions *North American savings compared to buying 13 full priced issues at $13.99 from the US newsstand. Europe and ROW have no set newsstand price and therefore we cannot advertise the specific savings you will make. If you subscribe by 3-monthly continuous credit card payments, you will be charged every 3 months until you cancel. Europe and ROW customers will be charged in GBP. North American subscribers will pay in US $. This offer is for new print subscribers only. You will receive 13 issues in a year. Prices correct at point of print and subject to change. If at any time during the first 60 days you are dissatisfied in any way, please notify us in writing and we will refund you all unmailed issues. Offer ends 31 January 2021. row until there are 48 (54:60:66:72) sts. Cont straight until sleeve meas 15 (17:20:24: 29) cm, ending with RS facing for next row. SHAPE TOP Cast off 3 (3:3:4:4) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 42 (48:54:58:64) sts. Next row (RS): K2, Sl 1, K1, psso, K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows 3 (4:5:5:6) times more, ending withRSfacingfor next row. 34 (38:42:46:50) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of next 10 (10:12:12:14) rows, ending withRSfacingfor next row. Cast off rem 14 (18:18:22:22) sts. FINISHING Join both shoulder seams. FRONT BORDER With RS facing, starting and ending at cast-on edges, using 3mm needles and yarn A, pick up and knit 35 (38:43:47:51)sts up right front edge to beg of front neck slope, 28 (30:34:37:40) sts along right front slope, knit across the 28 (30:32:34:36) sts from back holder, pick up and knit 28 (30:34:37:40) sts down left front slope tobeg of shaping,pick up andknit 35 (38:43:47:51) sts down left front edge. 154 (166:186:202:218) sts. Beg with row 2, work in rib as given for Back for 3 rows, ending with RS facing for next row. Next row (RS):Rib to last 29 (32:35:38:41) sts, *work 2 tog, yo (to make a buttonhole), rib 6 (7:8:9:10), rep from * twice more, work 2 tog, yo, rib 3. Work1morerowin rib. Cut off yarnA andjoininyarnB. Work2morerowsin ribusingyarnB only, ending withRSfacingfor next row. Cast off in rib. Join sideseams. Join sleeve seams. Sew sleeves i nto armholes. Sew on buttons. SAVE OVER $5 ON EVERY ISSUE! v Save 73% on the shop price - just $49.95 for 13 issues* (usually $181.87) v Free delivery from the United Kingdom v Exclusive pattern booklet in every issue v 13 issues a year - subscribe today and never miss an issue! EUROPE PRICING £84.99 for a 1-year subscription (13 issues) by debit/credit card REST OF THE WORLD PRICING £95.49 for a 1-year subscription (13 issues) by debit/credit card www.buysubscriptions.com/TKPOS20 or call us on +44 1604 973 760 and quote TKNPOS20 For more knitting pattern ideas for all the family using Ella Rae yarns, visit www.knittingfever. com when you subscribe today! $3.84 AN ISSUE! $13.99 PAY JUST UK READERS See page 26 SAVE 3% Call (toll-free) on 855 827 8639 (quote code ‘TKUSP20’) Order online at www.buysubscriptions.com/TKUSP20 Lines are open 8.00am - 8.00pm weekdays and 9.00am – 1pm Satu rday for order s only. For enqui ri es: M onday to Friday bet ween the hou rs of 8.00am and 6.00pm. These times are US Eastern times as the agents are operating out of Philadelphia. Shea Sheep
DROPS DESIGN Blue Flake Use two-colour brioche stitch in the round to create this beret with a branching pattern The Knitter Issue 149
DROPS DESIGN Blue Flake PATTERN NOTES STITCH COUNTS All st counts given in the pattern when working in brioche stitch do not include yarn overs because the yarn over ‘belongs’ to the knit stitch and is counted with it as one stitch. HAT Using 3mm circular needles and yarn A, cast on 105 sts. Pm and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Knit 1 round. Rib round: *K1, P1, K1, P2; rep from * to end. Last round sets rib. Cont in rib in set until rib measures 3cm from cast-on edge. Dec round: *K1, P1, K1, P2tog; rep from * to end. 84 sts. Change to 3.5m m circular needles. BRIOCHE SECTION Working in stripes throughout, as shown on chart, work chart once in full, working the pattern repeat six times per round. Note that after round 12 you will have 108 sts on your needles due to the increases made onthisround, as shown on chart. Decreases are made on rou nds 52, 60, 68 and 76, as shown on chart. Change to DPNs when there are not enough sts to comfortably use circular needles. Stitch counts after decrease rounds are as follows: Round 52: 84 sts. Round 60: 60 sts. Round 68: 36 sts. Round 76: 12 sts. FINISHING When Round 77 of chart is complete, finish hat as follows: Cut both the yarns and pull the yarn B tail through the remaining sts, and pull tight to fasten. Weavein ends. Block hat gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. TWO-COLOUR BRIOCHE knitting is hugely popular right now, and this beret from DROPS Design demonstrates how smart and attractive the results can be. Working the branching brioche stitch pattern in two contrasting shades produces a striking effect. If you’ve never tried two-colour brioche stitch in the round, it’s worth watching a few video tutorials first, but it’s real ly not as difficult as it looks! This beret is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine, a DK-weight pure wool that comes in a palette of 42 bright, pastel and neutral colours. SIZE To fit head circumference: approx. 54cm to 58cm (211⁄4in to 23in) Actual circumference: 47cm (181⁄2in) Actual depth: 21cm (81⁄4in) YARN DROPS Merino Extra Fine (DK weight; 100% wool; 105m/114yds per 50g ball) A North Sea (28); 2 x 50g balls B Light Beige (08); 1 x 50g ball NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) circular needles, 40cm long 3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 4) circular needles, 40cm long Set of 3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 4) double-pointed needles (DPNs) Stitch markers TENSION 18 sts and 44 rounds to 10cm over patt on 3.5mm needles. (Note that for every 2 rnds only 1 vertical stitch will show, due to the slipped brioche sts in this pattern) YARN STOCKISTS DROPS Design c/o Wool Warehouse 01926 882 818 www.woolwarehouse.co .uk SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS sl1yo: With yarn held forward, slip the next st with the yarn over the needle. Note that the yarn over does not add to the stitch count and should always be worked with its st in following rounds. brk: Bark/brioche knit – knit st that was slipped in the previous row tog with its yo. brp: Burp/brioche purl – purl st that was slipped in the previous row tog with its yo. br4st inc: Brk next st, but leave original st with its yo on left needle and new loop on right needle, *yo on right needle, brk st on left needle, ** but leave original st with its yo on left needle and new loop on right needle; rep from * to ** and then slip original st and its yo off left needle. 4 sts inc’d. brRsl dec: Knit next st with its yo, foll st, and foll st with its yo together. 2 sts dec’d. brLsl dec: Slip next st kwise with its yo, knit together next st, and foll st with its yo, pass slipped st and its yo over these decreased sts. 2 sts dec’d. br4st dec: Slip together kwise next st and its yo, the foll st, and the foll st and its yo (3 sts and 2 yos in total), knit tog next st, and the foll st and its yo. Pass the slipped sts over the sts just worked tog. 4 sts dec’d. For general abbreviations, see p89 Note: For more detailed guidance on brioche knitting, see our Masterclasses in Issues 104 and 105, or read the articles online at www.gathered.how/knitting- and-crochet/knitting/how-to-knit- brioche-stitch/ For more garment and accessory inspiration using DROPS yarns from Norway, visit the Garnstudio archives at www. garnstudio.com. The Knitter 74 Issue 149
Blue Flake The Knitter 75 Issue 149
A LITTLE doll, wearing a lacy knitted dress, is on display at the Ruskin Museum in Coniston, Cumbria. It was originally owned by a Mrs Elizabeth Pepper, and was donated to the museum by her daughter, Abigail Reed. Abigail was one of the last of the hand spinners working in the famous Langdale linen industry in the Lake District, which had been established by the writer, art critic and social reformer Joh n Ruskin in 1883. The card displayed with this exhibit at the museum reads: “... dressed by H.R.H Princess of Wales (later Queen Alexandra), as a present for Mrs Elizabeth Pepper, who had visited Sandringham in order to teach her and her ladies-in-waiting how to spin flax...” After viewing the dress at the Ruskin Museum, I wanted to find out more about Elizabeth Pepper, and why she came to own such an exquisite item handmade by a princess. Elizabeth Pepper was born in 1854, in Borrowdale, Cumbria. Her mother was to be one of the earliest and most skilled spinners for the Ruskin Linen Industry, Eleanor Heskett. Eleanor, a blacksmith’s wife, can be found in the 1851 census listed as “Pauper”. She was destined to spin the linen that made up the pall for John Ruskin’s fu neral cortege, and she taught her daughter, Elizabeth, to spin. Elizabeth, in her turn, was to teach a future queen to spin. Elizabeth married a farmer, Robert Pepper, and they farmed near Coniston in the Lake District. By 1891, she was listed in the census at “Manageress of the Langdale Linen Industry” and in 1911, she self-described her occupation as: “Hand-spinning and weaving flax and wool and silk”. Cottage industry Spinning and weaving by hand were extinct by the 1880s. The Langdale Linen Industry, founded in 1883, revived the hand spinning and weaving of linen in the Lake District, as well as embroidery. It gave employment to working-class women in the valley of Langdale, and the business was seen as creative, fulfilling and non-exploitative, as well as environmentally sound. John Ruskin had bought a cottage to found the revived linen industry in Elterwater, which was named St. Martin’s Home. It was filled with old and new spinning wheels, and local women were taught to spin linen. When proficient, the women could borrow the wheels and take them home. Eleanor Heskett may well have been one of the two locals who remembered, from their youth, how to spin and then taught the others, or maybe she was in the earliest group of local women who learned to spin at Elterwater. The linen thread was handwoven in an outbuilding of St. Martin’s by a man who, in his distant youth, had trained as a handloom weaver. Elizabeth Pepper taught herself to dye embroidery silks with natural dyes, and embroidered flowers and animals in the tradition of Ruskin and the other pre-Raphaelite artists, finding inspiration in the nature all around her. Her undyed, natural handspun, handwoven linen backgrounds were canvasses for her art. She was a skilled spinner, weaver, natural dyer and embroiderer. She must also have knitted, as her needles are now on display at the Ruskin Museum in Coniston, along with examples of her work, and the doll given to her by Queen Alexandra. The fame of the Langdale Linen Industry grew as the work of the Lakeland craftswomen travelled the country, in exhibitions and displays. By 1889 there was an office for Home A rts and Industries, which included spinning and knitting, on the top floor of London’s Albert Hall. One newspaper report remarked that on display there, as well as the linen, was knitting done by Lakeland Princess Alexandra’s Doll Dress Penelope Hemingway delves into the story behind a dainty doll dress, knitted by Princess Alexandra and held in the collection of the Ruskin Museum in Cumbria HISTORIC KNITTING ARTEFACTS – PART 3 L E F T : P O S T C A R D O F Q U E E N A L E X A N D R A P R O D U C E D B Y G D & D L c . 1 9 1 2 Queen Alexandra was a proficient hand spinner The Knitter Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
children, who were being “taught to knit socks and stockings, and work in rabbits’ hair - a very fair imitation of lambs’ wool...” Dolls’ dresses may well have been amongst the fancier types of knitting the children practised. It was at the Home Arts Exhibition in London that Elizabeth’s work caught the eye of Princess Alexandra (1844-1925), who requested that Elizabeth came down to the royal estate at Sandringham in Norfolk to teach her to spin. Alexandra went on to start her own Spinning School on the estate, where girls learned to spin wool from the Sandringham estate’s sheep. In gratitude, the Princess knitted this doll’s dress and presented the doll and dress to Elizabeth. We can only imagine how much Elizabeth must have treasured it, on her farm at Langdale. Natural silk The doll’s bonnet and dress were knitted in undyed silk – now browned with age, but within its folds it is possible to see its original, cream colour. The lacy knitting echoes the woven, cut-thread and embroidered lace being produced in Elterwater, by the late 1880s and on until the First World War, when the industry finally died. Elizabeth Pepper often embroidered with silk thread that she had dyed herself in beautiful, natural colours. The doll’s dress is knitted from si milar silk. It’s possible that Alexandra used commercial silk thread, or even spun the silk herself. I wasn’t able to get the doll out of the display cabinet, and it would have to be examined more closely to determine whether it was knitted using handspun or commercial silk. Dolls’ dress patterns were featured in magazines such as Weldon’s Ladies’ Journal , as well as patterns for knitted lace edgings. Yet the vast majority of patterns in periodicals in the mid to late 19th century were for sewn dolls’ clothes, not knitted ones. This dress may have been knitted using a commercially available pattern, or knitted using a commercial lace edging and an improvised bodice/sleeve. Alexandra would have been an able knitter. Delicate stitches Samples of lace knitting and handwritten patterns made by the women of the Wordsworth family are in the collection at the Wordsworth Trust, down the road, in Grasmere. Lace edgings were collected and documented by Victorian and Edwardian knitters. The doll’s dress could also have been made from memory, assuming that knitting dolls’ dresses was something many women learned in childhood and Alexandra was a devoted and kind mother and grandmother - who had possibly knitted such little gifts for her own family. The inclusion of a bonnet, however, suggests to me this is likely to be an outfit from a commercial knitting pattern. The lace edging is a shallow pattern, knitted sideways, with the rest of the skirt comprised of bands of stocking and garter stitch, alternating. The dress would be decreased at the waist, with eyelets for the waistband, followed by the bodice which is also knitted sideways and maybe of a piece with the skirt. The sleeves are knitted more conventionally, down from the armscye. The doll herself was a high-quality wax and composition doll. She is around six inches tall, which suggests the dress was possibly knitted on needles sized around 1mm. Alexandra was born in Copenhagen, Denmark and was married to Queen Victoria’s son - who was to become Edward VII - in 1863. She was an affectionate woman and could be both extravagant and sensible (she spent wildly on designer clothing, yet had her stockings darned). “...Spinning is a favourite occupation with the Queen. Her own wheel, decorated with the Danish colours, stands in the Spinning School at Sandringham, a room which is part of the Technical Schools founded by the Queen Alexandra for the training of village girls. Wool from the sheep on the estate is spun into yarn and made up into beautiful woollen goods...” [ESSEX COUNTY CHRONICLE, JUNE 27, 1902]. Girls in the Queen’s Spinning School learned to spin, weave, knit and sew. All of this textile activity was the result of the Queen meeting with Elizabeth Pepper, the Langdale Linen Industry manager. – The Ruskin Museum: www.ruskinmuseum.com – Penelope’s blog: w ww.theknittinggenie.com A B O V E L E F T : R U S K I N M U S E U M . A B O V E R I G H T : W . & D . D O W N E Y / G E T T Y I M A G E S , T O P R I G H T : U N I V E R S A L H I S T O R Y A R C H I V E / G E T T Y I M A G E S 1 The intricate dress was knitted in silk by the then Princess of Wales 2 The doll’s owner was a hand spinner working for the Langdale Linen Industry, who taught the princess to spin 3 Alexandra was a devoted mother, and may have knitted doll’s clothes for her own children 1 2 3 Knitting history The Knitter Issue 149
2 Row 1: K2, SSK working next cast-on stitch together with the first stitch from the side of the work. *Slip the three stitches back on to the left needle, pulling yarn tight behind the i-cord stitches, K2, SSK (working the i-cord stitch with the next body stitch). Repeat from * until one picked up stitch remains along the side of the work. Cast off, working the third i-cord stitch and the last body stitch together. The result is a neat, firm edging that requires no sewing up, except for weaving in your yarn ends. LACE EDGINGS Knitted-on lace edgings are quite common in traditional shawl patterns, and can be used to create effective and interesting shaped edges. You could also take a pretty edging design from an existing shawl pattern and use it on a bolero or the cuff of a sweater. When working a lace edging, there are usual ly two edging rows for each body stitch worked. In the case of our Lace Edging One sample here (below), the edging is being added to a straight edge using the live stitches from the swatch – in the same way as you would add an edging to the end of a scarf or wrap. Because there are 10 rows in the edging pattern repeat, you will need a multiple of five stitches plus one more for the cast-off row for it to fit properly across the end of your work. With the body stitches on the left-hand needle, cast on an additional 4 sts – this is the same approach as the start of the i-cord. Work the first row of the edging - the SSK will use your final cast-on stitch and one body stitch (3). I-CORD EDGING The first edging we are going to look at is the i-cord, which gives a very neat finish. Here it is added to the side of our swatch, so the first step is to pick up stitches, although you can also work it along live stitches. So that the i-cord can be knitted up the right-hand-side of the swatch, the stitches have been picked up and purled down from the cast-off end of the swatch to the cast-on. Because the i-cord edging uses one body stitch per row, one stitch has been picked up for every row end. Once all the stitches have been picked up, cast on an additional three stitches onto the same needle (1). . KNITTED-ON EDGINGS Bronagh Miskelly offers her expert tips on adding knit-on edgings to your projects, and offers three attractive options to try 1 2 3 KNITTED-ON edgings are very useful for creating neat or interesting finishes on your knits. They can be used to add an attractive lace or cable border to a scarf or shawl, for example, or to finish a cardigan or a blanket with an i-cord for a smart look. Once you learn the basic techniques, there are a whole host of edgings to play with, from wide lace borders to simple button bands. ‘Knitted-on’ refers to how you join your edging to the body of your project. Rather than sewing the edging band on, it is attached to ‘live’ stitches from a project, or to a side edge by picking up stitches from the row ends. Either way, the basic techniques will work in the same way. The Knitter 78 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
About our expert Bronagh Miskelly is a designer, writer and technical editor who teaches a range of knitting workshops. She is also closely involved with the UK Hand Knitting Association. Turn your work and work Row 2 of the pattern back along the edging stitches, making sure to slip the first stitch of this and every WS row. The slipped stitch will be the one worked with the body stitch on the next row. Slipping this stitch ensures a tighter join. You then continue through the pattern repeat, ‘zipping’ your edging to your knitting as you go, until there is one body stitch remaining. Cast off the remaining stitches, working the last edging stitch and body stitch together. WORKING ROUND CORNERS On our Lace Edging Two swatch (below), the edging is worked around the point of the shawl. At corners, two or three pairs of edging rows have to be attached to the same body stitch. If two pairs of edging rows are worked into one body stitch, it is known as a double join, and if three pairs are worked into the one body stitch it is a triple join. For Lace Edging Two, the pattern requires three double joins before the point, one triple join in the stitch at the point of the shawl, and three double joins on the other side of the corner. This means you will need a multiple of eight stitches (for the 16 rows of the edging pattern), plus four stitches on each side of the point stitches. Work the pattern, making single joins as in Lace Edging One (4), until you have four body stitches before the point. Work Rows 1 and 2 of the edging pattern as usual. Work Row three as set, but when you work the final SSK, do not drop the body stitch from the left-hand needle. Turn and work Rows 4 and 5 as usual until the final SSK. Work the final edge stitch together with the body stitch that you kept on your left needle, and this time drop it from the needle when the stitch is complete. This completes the double join. In this case, work two more double joins keeping the pattern correct, and then a triple join in the point of the shawl. In the triple join, keep the body stitch on the needle until three SSKs have been worked into it. Then work three more double joins along the second side of the corner before return to the normal edging pattern. The number of double and triple joins you need for a corner will depend on how many stitches there are in your edging pattern. Lace shawl knitting guru Jane Sowerby suggests the following guide: • Narrow border up to 9 stitches: four to six double joins worked round the corner. • Medium border 10 to 20 stitches: three to four doubles, one triple, three to four doubles. • Wide border 21 to 30 stitches: four doubles, one to four triples, four doubles. • Extra wide border 30 or more stitches: four doubles, four to eight triples, four doubles. Jane also recommends ripping back and adjusting the numbers of double and triple joins if you are not happy with how your edging sits. Another approach is to knit a small swatch and test your corner out - making sure you note how many edging rows it uses, as well as how many body stitches, so you will be able to work out how many stitches you will need for your whole edging. Now you have the techniques for knitting on edges, there are plenty of edging patterns in shawl books and stitch dictionaries to experiment with and add new looks to your knitting. LACE EDGING ONE Cast on 4 sts. Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, K1, yo twice, K1, SSK (using last edging st and first st from main body of work), turn. 6 sts. Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, P2, K1, P2. Row 3: Sl 1, K4, SSK, turn. Row4:Sl1wyif,Ptoend. Row 5: Sl 1, K1, yo twice, K2tog, yo twice, K1, SSK. 9 sts. Row 6: Sl 1 wyif, P2, K1, P2, K1, P2. Row 7: Sl 1, K7, SSK, turn. Row8:Sl1wyif,Ptoend. Row9:Castoff5sts,K2,(3stsonRH needle), SSK. 4 sts. Row: 10: Sl 1 wyif, P3. Repeat rows 1-10, taking in one st from main shawl on each RS row, until all but one body st has been used. Cast off rem 4 sts, working last st with final body st. LACE EDGING TWO Cast on 10 sts. Row 1: K1tbl twice, yo, K1, SSK, yo twice, K2tog, P2, SSK (using last edging st and first st from main body of work), turn. 11 sts. Row 2 and all WS rows: Sl 1 wyif, P4, K1, P to end. Row 3: K1tbl twice, yo, K2, SSK, yo twice, K2tog, P2, SSK, turn. 12 sts. Row 5: K1tbl twice, yo, K3, SSK, yo twice, K2tog, P2, SSK, turn. 13 sts. Row 7: K1tbl twice, yo, K1, K2tog, yo, K1, SSK, yo twice, K2tog, P2, SSK, turn. 14 sts. Row 9: K1tbl, SSK, yo, SSK, K2, SSK, yo twice, K2tog, P2, SSK, turn. 13 sts. Row 11: K1tbl, SSK, yo, SSK, K1, SSK, yo twice, K2tog, P2, SSK, turn. 12 sts. Row 13: K1tbl, SSK, yo, SSK twice, yo twice, K2tog, P2, SSK, turn. 11 sts. Row 15: K1tbl, SSK, K1, SSK, yo twice, K2tog, P2, SSK, turn. 10 sts. Row16:Sl1wyif,P4,K1,Ptoend. 4 Masterclass The Knitter 79 Issue 149
ISSUE TECHNIQUE AUTHOR 148 Selvedges Helen Spedding 147 2x2 tubular cast-on in the round Jen Arnall-Culliford 146 Glove techniques (in supplement) Rosee Woodland 145 Decorative sock cuffs Rhian Drinkwater 144 Two-colour alternating long-tail cast-on Jen Arnall-Culliford 143 Creative rib stitches Helen Spedding 142 Knitting with wire Bronagh Miskelly 141 Cast-on methods for top-down socks Rhian Drinkwater 140 Introduction to double knitting Ella Austin 139 Two-sided textures Bronagh Miskelly 138 Heel methods for top-down socks Rhian Drinkwater 137 Thorn Stitch Ella Austin 136 Hand exercises for knitters Helen Spedding 135 Stretchy cast-off methods Faye Perriam-Reed 134 Corrugated ribbing Faye Perriam-Reed 133 Adding thumbholes to cuffs Faye Perriam-Reed 132 Self-striping socks Faye Perriam-Reed 131 Advanced Kitchener stitch part 2 (reverse stocking stitch and garter stitch) Louise Smith 130 Felting Faye Perriam-Reed 129 Advanced Kitchener stitch part 1 (ribbing) Louise Smith 128 Provisional cast-ons Faye Perriam-Reed 127 Picot cast-on and cast-off Faye Perriam-Reed 126 Judy’s Magic Cast On refresher Faye Perriam-Reed 125 Helical/barberpole stripes Jen Bartlett 124 Tubular cast-off Faye Perriam-Reed 123 Tubular cast-ons Faye Perriam-Reed 122 Circular cast-ons Faye Perriam-Reed 121 Adding twisted knitted ribbons (in supplement) Tanja Murray 120 Stitchmastery part 2 Rosee Woodland 119 Purl blips/bumps in striped ribbing Nathan Taylor 118 Stitchmastery part 1 Rosee Woodland 117 Shawl design (in supplement) Anniken Allis MASTERCLASS ARCHIVE Discover the wide range of knitting techniques explored by The Knitter over the past eleven years in this reference guide to our Masterclass topics ISSUE TECHNIQUE AUTHOR 116 Steeking Mary Henderson 115 Changing width of finished knits Faye Perriam-Reed 114 Changing length of finished knits Faye Perriam-Reed 113 Sewing in zips Faye Perriam-Reed 112 Advanced brioche stitch Jen Arnall-Culliford 111 Combination knitting Jen Arnall-Culliford 110 Changing sleeve width on set-in sleeves Jen Arnall-Culliford 109 Sideways knit hats Woolly Wormhead 108 Blocking part 2 (lace shawls) Jen Arnall-Culliford 107 Double knitting Jen Arnall-Culliford 106 Blocking part 1 Jen Arnall-Culliford 105 Two-colour brioche part 2 (cast-off) Jen Arnall-Culliford 104 Two-colour brioche part 1 (cast-on and basic stitches) Jen Arnall-Culliford 103 Hat shape, structure and design Woolly Wormhead 102 Calculating yarn quantities Jen Arnall-Culliford 101 Left-leaning and centred decreases Jen Arnall-Culliford 100 Continental knitting Jen Arnall-Culliford 99 Seaming Jen Arnall-Culliford 98 Adjusting armhole depth Jen Arnall-Culliford 97 Hat crown shaping Woolly Wormhead 96 Pleats and tucks Jen Arnall-Culliford 95 Garment care Jen Arnall-Culliford 94 Stranding for Fair Isle Faye Perriam-Reed 93 German twisted cast-on Faye Perriam-Reed 92 Thrums Helen Spedding 91 Felting Faye Perriam-Reed 90 Basic crochet for knitters Faye Perriam-Reed 89 Shoulder shaping with short rows Faye Perriam-Reed 88 Following charts Faye Perriam-Reed 87 Pockets Faye Perriam-Reed 86 Joining in new yarns Faye Perriam-Reed 85 Making your own buttons Helen Spedding 84 Weaving in ends Faye Perriam The Knitter 80 Issue 149 Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter
ISSUE TECHNIQUE AUTHOR 83 Crochet nupps Jen Storey 82 Sock toes Clare Devine 81 Decorative darning Emma Vining 80 Kitchener Stitch refresher Jen Storey 79 Sunday short rows Jen Storey 78 Cabling without a cable needle Jen Storey 77 Norwegian purl Faye Perriam 76 Continental knitting Faye Perriam 75 Changing colour with Photoshop Faye Perriam 74 Cast-offs Jen Arnall-Culliford 73 Cast-ons Jen Arnall-Culliford 72 Using Excel to change tension Ellen Gill 71 Afterthought and short-row sock heels Clare Devine 70 Adapting heel flaps Clare Devine 69 Ravelry guide part 2 Jen Arnall-Culliford 68 Ravelry guide part 1 Jen Arnall-Culliford 67 Latvian braid cast-on Jen Storey 66 Intarsia stripes and cables Faye Perriam 65 Smocking stitch Rosee Woodland 64 Fair Isle techniques Rosee Woodland 63 Hat Design Workshop (in supplement) Faye Perriam 62 Short-row shaping Rosee Woodland 61 Knitting for children (in supplement) Barb Brown 60 Sock Design Workshop (in supplement) Rhian Drinkwater 59 Lace blocking Rosee Woodland 58 Intarsia Judy Furlong 57 Beading Rosee Woodland 56 Shawl Design Workshop (in supplement) Rosee Woodland 55 Preventing and tackling RSI Rosee Woodland 54 Modular knitting Rosee Woodland 53 Taking project photos Mimi Hill 52 Darning and repairs Rosee Woodland 51 Converting patterns for seamless knitting Judy Furlong 50 Vikkel braids AnneLena Mattison 49 Adding bust darts Judy Furlong 48 Designing a Fair Isle hat Jane Crowfoot 47 Knitting in the round part 2 (Magic Loop) Rosee Woodland 46 Knitting in the round part 1 Rosee Woodland 45 Combination knitting Annie Modesitt 44 Finishing techniques part 2 Judy Furlong 43 Finishing techniques part 1 Judy Furlong To order a back issue of The Knitter, * call 03330 162 151†. Digital issues are available from www.gathered.how/digital-issues * Subject to availability. † UK calls will cost the same as other standard fixed line numbers (starting 01 or 02) and are included as part of any inclusive or free minutes allowances (if offered by your phone tariff). Outside of free call packages call charges from mobile phones will cost between 3p and 55p per minute. Lines are open Mon to Fri 8am–6pm and Sat 9am–1pm for orders only. For enquiries Monday to Friday between the hours of 8.00am and 6.00pm. Please allow 28 days for delivery. ISSUE TECHNIQUE AUTHOR 42 Buttonholes Rosee Woodland 41 Spinning on a wheel Catherine Wright 40 Yarn weight substitutions part 2 (complex patterns) Belinda Boaden 39 Recolouring Fair Isle Emma King 38 Yarn weight substitutions part 1 Belinda Boaden 37 Drop spindling Rosee Woodland 36 Lace troubleshooting part 2 Judy Furlong 35 Lace troubleshooting part 1 Judy Furlong 34 Essential crochet techniques Jane Crowfoot 33 Judy’s Magic Cast On (casting on for toe-up socks) Judy Becker 32 Adding waist shaping Belinda Boaden 31 Knitted-on edgings Judy Furlong 30 Slip-stitch colour effects Emma King 29 Advanced Kitchener stitch Woolly Wormhead 28 Essential embroidery techniques Emma King 27 Cable charts and fixing mistakes Belinda Boaden 26 Fair Isle techniques Jane Crowfoot 25 Embellishing with i-cord Jane Crowfoot 24 Basic designing Jane Crowfoot 23 Steeking Jane Crowfoot 22 Lining knitted fabric Jane Crowfoot 21 Choosing appropriate yarn Jane Crowfoot 20 Lace techniques Jane Crowfoot 19 Basic Kitchener stitch Jane Crowfoot 18 Adding embroidery to knitting Jane Crowfoot 17 Tubular cast-on and cast-off Jane Crowfoot 16 Jogless stripes Jane Crowfoot 15 Small diameter knitting in the round Jane Crowfoot 14 Reversible double knitting Jane Crowfoot 13 Cabling without a cable needle Jane Crowfoot 11 Provisional cast-ons Jane Crowfoot 10 Intarsia Jane Crowfoot 9 Adjusting patterns to fit part 2 Jane Crowfoot 8 Adjusting patterns to fit part 1 Jane Crowfoot 7 Denim yarn effects Jane Crowfoot 6 Blocking lace Jane Crowfoot 5 Short row shaping Jane Crowfoot 4 Knitting with beads Jane Crowfoot 2 Fair Isle shortcuts Jane Crowfoot 1 Turkish cast-on Jane Crowfoot Masterclass archive The Knitter 81 Issue 149
To advertise in The Knitter Boutique please contact Kerri McKenna on 0117 300 8550 Your essential buying guide to the best suppliers of yarn & knitting accessories BOUTIQUE To advertise on these pages, please contact KERRI MCKENNA on 0117 300 8550 Recycle your magazine and seven days later it could come back as your newspaper www.recyclenow.com The Possibilities Endless are Ebsworth Pots www.ebsworthpots.com 07779559566 Professionally hand thrown pottery made in Wales UK. Yarn bowls are the perfect gift for any knitter. No more chasing that ball of wool around. It stays in the yarn bowl while you knit or crochet. ONLINE Frangipani 5-ply Guernsey Wool www.guernseywool.co.uk jan@guernseywool.co.uk 01326 240 367 5-ply Guernsey Wool 28 glorious colours to knit your own gansey. ONLINE Purl Alpaca Designs www.purlalpacadesigns.com info@purlalpacadesigns.com Ethically produced 100% pure British alpaca yarn, original stylish knitting patterns, sewing up service, knitting kits. On farm workshops courses and tuition near Cambridge. ONLINE Qing Fibre www.qingfibre.com contact@qingfibre.com Qing Fibre specialises in unusual colour combinations and sophisticated speckles. Check out the website for Spring tones, fresh skeins and summer club subscriptions! ONLINE Watercolours & Lace www.watercoloursandlace.co .uk julie@watercoloursandlace.co .uk 01379 674 427 With exclusive designs, over 40 yarn bases and 400 hand-painted colourways in luxury, natural fibres and cobweb lace to 4-ply weights – we’ll help you create the garment of your dreams. ONLINE Willow Knits www.willowknits.etsy.com mail@willowknits.com 02083 632 884 We specialise in hand-dyed silks for luxury knitting and crochet. Worsted, 4-ply and lace weights are available in a wide range of colours. Custom orders are welcome too. GET 10% DISCOUNT ON YOUR ONLINE ORDER USE CODE KNIT10 AT THE CHECKOUT. ONLINE
Fine Fettle Fibres www.finefettlefibres.uk judith@finefettlefibres.uk 01670 600 001 Specialising in British and fair trade yarns in natural fibres, Fine Fettle Fibres also offers workshops, knitting groups and special events for knitters. Studio 6, Gallery 45, 45 Main Street, Felton, Northumberland, NE65 9PP NORTH EAST/ONLINE Handmade Studios www.handmadestudios.org 02392 412 901 A delightful yarn shop in South East Hampshire with over 650 indie dye yarns and quality commercial yarns. Tues to Sat 10am-4pm. Thursday 4-8pm with Knit & Natter 6-8pm. Teashop next door. 4 The Green, Rowlands Castle, Hants, PO9 6BN SOUTH Home Farm Wensleydales www.homefarmwensleydales.com homefarmwensleydales@gmail.com 07762 787 836 Home grown 100% rare breed wool from our flock of Wensleydale and Bluefaced Leicester sheep. Washed and spun traditionally in Yorkshire, all we add is grass, water, and a bit of TLC. Follow the story on Facebook. 10% discount with code knit20. SOUTH Brambles & Me www.bramblesandme.co .uk instagram.com/bramblesandme Brambles & Me is a natural dye business located within the heart of Newcastle upon Tyne in the North East of England. Beautifully hand-dyed yarns using only naturally derived extracts from roots, bark, leaves and insects to create unique colours influenced by the great outdoors. NORTH EAST Frome Yarn Collective www.fromeyarncollective.co .uk Stockists of small independent producers and hand-dyers such as Cambrian Wool, Skein Queen, Cat & Sparrow, as well as larger producers like Isager, Rowan, West Yorkshire Spinners and Sirdar. 11 Catherine Hill, Frome, Somerset, BA11 1BZ SOUTH WEST Oxford Yarn Store www.oxfordyarnstore.co.uk info@oxfordyarnstore.co .uk 01865 604 112 Exquisite yarns and notions for all tastes. Rowan, Isager, The Fibre Co., Baa Ram Ewe, West Yorkshire Spinners, Malabrigo, Manos del Uruguay, Jamieson’s, Adriafil. 3 North Parade Ave, Oxford, OX2 6LX SOUTH CENTRAL Oxford Yarn Store Sew-In Marple · Buxton · Online www.myknittingyarnandwool.co.uk enquiries@myknittingyarnandwool.co.uk 0161 427 2529 · 01298 26636 Two high street gems stocking all that’s best in handknitting! Sublime, WYS, Rowan, Sirdar, Rico and more. Extensive selection of needlecraft and haberdashery. SK6 7AD · SK17 6BJ NORTH/NORTH WEST Wensleydale Longwool Sheep Shop www.wensleydalelongwool.co .uk sales@wensleydalelongwool.co.uk 01969 623 558 Pure Wensleydale Wool – Worsted spun, dyed and finished in Yorkshire. Aran, DK and 4ply available in “colours of the dales”. Tops, fleece, patterns, garments and notions available in store and online. Based in Leyburn. YORKSHIRE
ISSUE 150 ON SALE 30 APRIL Beautiful styles for your spring wardrobe by Emma Vining, Bronagh Miskelly, Debbie Bliss, Anniken Allis, Penelope Hemingway ...a nd more + Explore the beautiful hand-dyed hues of Watercolours & Lace, & discover expert tips for knitting perfect socks Plus 8-PAGE PULLOUT KAFFE FASSETT C O N T E N T S U B J E C T T O C H A N G E
SEE THE PATTERNS IN DETAIL HERE http://bit.ly/RAVTKN Issue 145 Cabled sweater v Gradient shawl v Textured jumper v Slip stitch capelet v Belted cardigan v Child’s cardigan v Men’s colourwork cardigan v Fair Isle hat v Cable jacket v Colourwork sweater Missed an issue? Catch up on what you’ve missed by downloading a back issue of The Knitter today Issue 148 Lacy gansey v Cabled jumper v Men’s gansey sweater v Intarsia jumper v Cabled tunic v Striped lace jumper v Lace top v Intarsia cushion v Shawl v Batwing jumper v Child’s Fair Isle tank top v Colourwork hat Issue 147 Two-colour cabled jumper v Fair Isle tank top v Zigzag jumper v Textured cardigan v Sideways cable sweater v Fair Isle mittens v Bag v Yoked cardigan v Intarsia jumper v Lace rib sweater TURN FOR MORE BACK ISSUES Issue 146 Cabled top v Fair Isle & lace cardigan v Crossover jacket v Child’s sweater v Lace shawl v Fair Isle hat v Hooded cable cardigan v Colourwork jumper v Socks v Men’s cardigan v Fair Isle gloves
Issue 138 Issue 136 Issue 141 Issue 142 Issue 133 Issue 134 Issue 139 Issue 140 Issue 135 Issue 137 Digital copies are available from issue 11 Once you’ve downloaded an issue, you can read it at any time RETURN TO THE APP TO BUY ISSUES 11 ONWARDS Issue 143 Issue 144
YARN SUPPLIERS Baa Ram Ewe 01937 547135 www.baaramewe.co.uk Bergère de France www.bergeredefrance.co.uk DROPS Design c/o Wool Warehouse 01926 882 818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Ella Rae c/o Knitting Fever www.knittingfever.com King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com Rowan 01484 668200 www.knitrowan.com West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com BOOK PUBLISHERS Dover Publications www.doverpublications.com Available in the UK from www.amazon.co.uk Page Street Publishing www.pagestreetpublishing.com Available in the UK from www.melia.co.uk Pantsville Press www.pantsvillepress.com c/o Search Press (see below) Search Press 01892 510 850 www.searchpress.com alt alternate approx approximately beg beginning ch chain cn cable needle cont continue dc double crochet (US single crochet) dec decrease (work two stitches together) DK double knitting DPN double-pointed needle dtr double treble (US treble crochet) est established foll following inc increase K knit KFB knit into front and back of stitch K2tog knit the next two stitches together kwise knitwise meas measures M1 make one (see M1L) M1pw make 1 st purlwise: with LH needle lift the strand between next and last st from front to back and purl through the back loop M1L left leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back. Knit lifted loop through back of loop M1R right leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit lifted loop through front of loop MB make a bobble mrk marker P purl patt pattern(s) PB place bead PFB purl into front and back of stitch pm place marker prev previous psso pass slipped stitch over P2tog purl 2 stitches together P3tog purl 3 stitches together pwise purlwise rem remain(ing) rep(s) repeat(s) rev st st reverse stocking stitch RH right hand RS right side skpo slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over sk2po slip 1, knit 2 tog, pass slipped stitch over s2kpo slip 2 tog kwise, knit 1, pass slipped sts over Sl slip sl st slip stitch ss slip stitch (crochet) slm slip marker SSK slip 2 stitches one at a time, return to LH needle, knit 2 slipped stitches together tbl SSP slip 2 stitches one at a time, return to LH needle, purl 2 slipped stitches together tbl st(s) stitch(es) st st stocking stitch tbl through back of loop tog together tr treble crochet (US double crochet) w&t wrap and turn WS wrong side wyib with yarn in back wyif with yarn in front yb take yarn back (no inc) yf bring yarn to front (no inc) yfwd yarn forward yo yarn over yrn yarn round needle INFORMATION An archive of our Masterclasses is available online: www.gathered.how/knitting-and-crochet/knitting/ how-to-knit/ Abbreviations Contacts Our archive of updates can be found at: www.gathered.how/theknitter Pattern updates ISSUE 141 Uradale Frost Instructions are missing for the Back right neck – please work as per the instructions given for the left neck, reversing all shapings. ISSUE 144 Tulip Slippers At the start of Slipper 1, after casting on with yarn B and joining into the round, you should then join in a second strand ofyarn B, not yarn A as written. ISSUE 147 Eirlys One of the colours is listed incorrectly. Yarn G should actually be Brasov 038. Shaded Diamonds In the chart for this design, yarn O is missing from the top of the second diamond, with yarn N shown again instead. You can download the corrected section of the chart here: http://bit.ly/TKerrata2020 There is a correction for the slipper pattern in Issue 144 The Knitter 89 Issue 149
IN THE heart of Norwich city centre is Norfolk Yarn, the shop run by Rebecca Bone. It stocks a lovely range of British brands, as well as artisan yarns from around the world. We chatted with Rebecca what it’s like to run a high street yarn store. How did you come to run a yarn store? “I worked in retail until my mid thirties, when I went to university to study cell biology. I went on to teach science, but I later realised that I wanted to have my own business i n craft retail. I think the pivotal point was when I was in a serious knitting phase, and had worked through most of the yarns John Lewis had to offer! My mum went on holiday and brought back a pack of Noro Blossom in the most beautiful shades of pink and mauve. I had never seen the like of it before, but couldn’t find a local supplier. I thought that if I wanted it, maybe others did too - so Noro was one of the first lines that I stocked when I opened my shop in 2005, and I still carry now. My family were very supportive, with my mum, daughter and husband all being dragged in to help in the business.” What can visitors expect when they pop into your shop? “I like the shop to look bright, clean and modern, to allow the colours of the wool to shout out. From the very beginning we set out to deal in natural fibres as much as possible, so customers will find lots of lovely, squishy fine wool, alpaca, silk and cotton, and lots of strong colours. We have a number of lines that have an element of man-made fibres, such as sock wool, but most are natural. I have always been concerned about the environmental and ethical elements of production, so I am careful where I purchase from, and do a lot of research before taking on new lines.” What brands do you stock? “My main brands of yarn are Rowan, Noro, West Yorkshire Spinners, Fyberspates and Erika Knight. One of my best-selling yarns is Rowan Felted Tweed, which we use in lots of our workshops and has the most amazing colour range. I also stock KnitPro, Lykke and Pony needles, and I am an agent for Ashford spinning supplies. We sell wool fibre for spinning and felting too, which is very popular.” Can you tell us about the team you have working with you? “Most of the week it is me manning the shop, but I do have a good friend, Boo Marshall, who helps me out. She is especially good at visual displays and photography for my website. My local crochet expert is Sue Maton, from The Mercerie, who runs all my crochet courses and workshops, and Sue Scheller, who teaches my felting workshops.” What would you say are the highlights and challenges of running a yarn shop? “Highlights are meeting the customers, teaching them new techniques and helping them with their knitting. Seeing what my customers are making with my yarns is great fun. Challenges are related to finances: running a high street shop doesn’t make you rich, and I hate having to keep on top of the book-keeping.” What is the knitting community like in Norwich? “We have a fantastic knitting community here - we run a regular knit and natter group in the shop, and many of the ladies I consider to be good friends. A lot of my customers are very dedicated to their crafts, both knitting and crochet, and love to work with nice yarns.” Do you have any plans for 2020 that you can share with us? “I started dyeing my own range of yarns, Dragonfly Dyes, a year ago, and I am planni ng to push this forward and really make it feature in the shop.” www.norfolkyarn.co.uk 01603 927034 Rebecca Bone’s Norwich store is a haven of yarny delights for the city’s knitters 2 3 1 4 5 1 Norfolk Yarn stocks gorgeous ranges from Fyberspates, Rowan, Noro, Erika Knight and others 2 Rebecca has begun hand dyeing her own yarns 3+ 5 The bright, colourful store is in Norwich city centre 4 Rebecca with Boo Marshall, who helps out in the shop Norfolk Yarn LOCAL HEROES I L L U S T R A T I O N : D I R T Y D O G C R E A T I V E / G E T T Y I M A G E S Interview
makers The makers of homes, the bringers of joy, the inventors of can-do, the cuddlers of furry friends You are the knitters, the makers, the dreamers. noun (may-kers) Together, we make. IMAMAKER7 *terms & conditions apply lovecrafts.com - your home to shop materials, find free patterns & feel the joy of making. FREE delivery on orders over £25 + 15% OFF with this code
BRONAGH MISKELLY Annecy Shawl Combining an intricate flower panel with airy mesh lace, this shawl is a thing of beauty Our shawl has been styled with a silver pin from Lyn Roberts Design www.lyn-roberts- design.com
BRONAGH MISKELLY Annecy Shawl A SILK-BLEND yarn brings a soft and glowing finish to this delicate shawl,designedby Bronagh Miskelly. It’s formed from a central diamond floral panel, with two wings worked in a mesh lace and simple garter stitch edgings. PATTERN NOTES The central diamond section is worked in the round from the centre out. The garter stitch border and mesh wing sections are added using the knitted-on method. If you are using interchangeable needles, place a stopper on one end of each needle when working the edging and wings. Find the charts on page 8 of this supplement. CENTRE SECTION CAST-ON OPTION 1 Holding two 3.25mm DPNs together, cast on 4 sts (two on each needle) using Judy’s Magic Cast On. (Note: You can watch this cast-on method at http://bit.ly/judymagicco ) Set-up round 1: KFB twice along each needle. 8 sts. Set-up round 2: Knit along both needles. CAST-ON OPTION 2 Using 3.25mm DPNs, cast on 4 sts and divide between two DPNs. Set-up round 1: KFB twice along each needle. 8 sts. Set-up round 2: Knit along both needles. BOTH OPTIONS Divide sts evenly over 4 DPNs. wing st, P2tog tbl (working wing st and central st tog). Contassetbyrows1and2untilrow20 of Wing chart is complete. Rep rows 13-20 until next marker on central section has been reached. Remove marker and work two more rows asset.155stsin wing section. Place Left Wing sts on a holder. START RIGHT GARTER EDGING Unzip scrap yarn from garter st edging and return 4 sts released on to free circular needle. Rejoin yarn to point of shawl and, with WS facing, K4. Next row (RS): K3, K2tog (working tog 1 edge st with 1 st from central section). Next row (WS): Sl 1 wyif, K3. Rep last two rows using both circular needles, taking in sts from the central section to 1 st before marker ending with a WS row. START RIGHT WING SECTION Next row (RS): K3, yo, K2tog (working tog 1 edge st with 1 st from central section). 1 st inc’d. Next row (WS): Sl 1 wyif, P1, K3. START WING CHART Row1:K3, workWingCharttolast wing st, K2tog (working wing st and central st tog). 2 sts inc’d. Row2:Sl1wyif, workWingCharttolast 3 wing sts, K3. Contassetbyrows1and2untilrow20 of Wing Chart is complete. Rep rows 13-20 until all sts have been used. Work two more rows as set, working CHARTED VERSION ONLY START CENTRAL FLOWER CHART Round 1: (Work rou nd 1 of Flower Chart, K1) 4 times (once on each needle). 16 sts. Round 2: (Work round 2 of Flower Chart, K1, pm) 4 times. Round 3: (Work round 3 of Flower Chart, K1, slm) 4 times. 24 sts. Cont as set until all chart rounds are complete, changing to 100cm ci rcular needles when there are enough sts on your needles. 296 sts. START LEFT GARTER EDGING Make 5 chains in scrap yarn using a 4mm crochet hook, and slip all 5 loops on to the second circular needle. Using yarn still attached to central section, work across scrap yarn as follows: K1, K2tog, K2. Next row (WS): K3, P2tog tbl (working together 1 edge st with 1 st from central section). Next row (RS): Sl 1 wyib, K3. Rep last two rows using both circular needles, taking in sts from the central section to corner marker a nd ending after a WS row. START LEFT WING SECTION Next row (RS): Sl 1 wyib, yo, K3. 1 st inc’d. Next row (WS): K3, P1, P2tog tbl (working wing st and central st tog). START WING CHART Row1:Sl1wyib, workWingChartto last 3 wing sts, K3. 2 sts inc’d. Row2:K3, workWingCharttolast SIZE Wingspan: 170cm (67in) Depth: 50cm (193⁄4in) YARN West Yorkshire Spinners Exquisite Lace (Laceweight; 80% wool, 20% silk; 800m/875yds per 100g skein) Savoy (371); 1 x 100g skein YARN STOCKISTS West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com TENSION 27stsand30rowsto10cmoverstston 3.25mm needles, before blocking NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 1 set 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) double-pointed needles (DPNS) Two 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, one at least 100cm long 4mm (UK 8/US G/6) crochet hook Scrap cotton yarn Stitch markers Stitch holder SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS s2kpo: Central double decrease. Slip 2 sts tog knitwise, K1, pass slipped sts over. CR3: Slip 3rd st on left needle over 2 sts in front and off the needle, K1, yo, K1. For general abbreviations, see p89 of the main magazine The Knitter Issue 149 BRONAGH MISKELLY Annecy Shawl
final RS K2tog into stitch used at end of left wing. 155 sts in wing section. WRITTEN VERSION ONLY START CENTRAL FLOWER PATTERN Round 1: (Yo, P1, yo, K1) 4 times (once on each needle). 16 sts. Round 2: (K1, P1, K2, pm) 4 times. Round 3: (Yo, K1, P1, K1, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 24 sts. Round 4: (K2, P1, K3, slm) 4 times. Round 5: (Yo, K2, P1, K2, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 32 sts. Round 6: (K3, P1, K4, slm) 4 times. Round 7: (Yo, K3, P1, K3, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 40 sts. Round 8: (K4, P1, K5, slm) 4 times. Round 9: (Yo, K4, P1, K4, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 48 sts. Round 10: (K5, P1, K6, slm) 4 times. Round 11: (Yo, K5, P1, K5, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 56 sts. Round 12: (K6, P1, K7, slm) 4 times. Round 13: (Yo, K6, P1, K6, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 64 sts. Round 14: (K7, P1, K8, slm) 4 times. Round 15: (Yo, K1, K2tog, K4, yo, P1, yo, K4, SSK, K1, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 72 sts. Round 16: (K1, K2tog, K4, yo, K1, P1, K1, yo, K4, SSK, K2, slm) 4 times. Round 17: (Yo, K2tog, K4, yo, K2, P1, K2, yo, K4, SSK, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 80 sts. Round 18: (K2tog, K4, yo, K3, P1, K3, yo, K4, SSK, K1, slm) 4 times. Round 19: (Yo, K4, K2tog, K3, yo, P1, yo, K3, SSK, K4, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 88 sts. Round 20: (K4, K2tog, K3, yo, K1, P1, K1, yo, K3, SSK, K5, slm) 4 times. Round 21: (Yo, K3, K2tog, K3, yo, K1, Cr3, K1, yo, K3, SSK, K3, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 96 sts. Round 22: (K3, K2tog, K3, yo, K3, P1, K3, yo, K3, SSK, K3, K1, slm) 4 times. Round 23: (Yo, K8, Cr3, P1, Cr3, K8, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 104 sts. Round 24: (K12, P1, K13, slm) 4 times. Round 25: [Yo, K7, (Cr3, K1) twice, Cr3, K7, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 112 sts. Round 26: (K13, P1, K14, slm) 4 times. Round 27: [Yo, K3, yo, SSK, (K1, Cr3) twice, P1, (Cr3, K1) twice, K2tog, yo, K3, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 120 sts. Round 28: (K14, P1, K15, slm) 4 times. Round 29: [Yo, K1, yo, SSK, K3, yo, SSK,(K1,Cr3)3 times, K1,K2tog, yo, K3, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 128 sts. Round 30: (K15, P1, K16, slm) 4 times. Round 31: (Yo, K3, yo, SSK, K4, yo, SSK, K1, Cr3, P1, Cr3, K1, K2tog, yo, K4, K2tog, yo, K3, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 136 sts. Round 32: (K16, P1, K17, slm) 4 times. Round33:[Yo, (K5, yo, SSK)twice, K1, Cr3, K1, (K2tog, yo, K5) twice, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 144 sts. Round 34: (K17, P1, K18, slm) 4 times. Round 35: (Yo, K7, yo, SSK, K6, yo, SSK, P1, K2tog, yo, K6, K2tog, yo, K7, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 152 sts. Round 36: (K18, P1, K19, slm) 4 times. Round 37: (Yo, K1, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2, yo, K1, yo, SSK, K6, yo, P3tog, yo, K6, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2, yo, K1, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 160 sts. Round 38: (K19, P1, K20, slm) 4 times. Round 39: (Yo, K3, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1, yo, K3, yo, SSK, K6, P1, K6, K2tog, yo, K3, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1, slm) 4 times. 168 sts. Round 40: (K20, P1, K21, slm) 4 times. Round 41: (Yo twice, K5, yo, s2kpo, yo, K5, yo, SSK, K5, P1, K5, K2tog, yo, K5, yo, s2kpo, yo, K5, yo twice, K1, slm) 4 times. 184 sts. Round 42: [(P1, K21) twice, P1, K1, slm] 4 times. Round 43: [(Yo, K1, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2) twice, yo, K1, yo, SSSK, yo, K2, P1, K2, yo, K3tog, (yo, K1, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2) twice, yo, K1, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 192 sts. Round 44: (K23, P1, K24, slm) 4 times. Round 45: [(Yo, K3, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1) twice, yo, K3, yo, SSSK, yo, K1, P1, K1, yo, K3tog, (yo, K3, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1) twice, yo, K3, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 200 sts. Round 46: (K24, P1, K25, slm) 4 times. Round 47: [Yo twice, (K5, yo, s2kpo, yo) twice, K5, yo, SSSK, yo, P1, yo, K3tog, (yo, K5, yo, s2kpo) twice, yo, K5, yo twice, K1, slm] 4 times. 216 sts. Round 48: [(P1, K25) twice, P1, K1, slm] 4 times. Round 49: [(Yo, K1, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2) 3 times, yo, K2, P1, K2, (yo, K2, s2kpo, K2, yo, K1) 3 times, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 224 sts. Round 50: (K27, P1, K28, slm) 4 times. Round 51: [(Yo, K3, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1) 3 times, yo, K3, P1, (K3, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1, yo) 3 times, K3, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 232 sts. Round 52: (K28, P1, K29, slm) 4 times. Round 53: [Yo twice, (K5, yo, s2kpo, yo) 3 times, K4, P1, K4, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K5) 3 times, yo twice, K1, slm] 4 times. 248 sts. Round54:(P1, K28, P3tog, K28, P1, K1, slm) 4 times. 240 sts. Round 55: [(Yo, K1, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2) 3 times, yo, K1, yo, K3, P3tog, K3, (yo, K1, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2) 3 times, yo, K1, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 248 sts. Round 56: (K30, P1, K31, slm) 4 times. Round 57: [(Yo, K3, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1) 3 times, yo, K3, yo, K2, P3tog, K2, (yo, K3, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1) 3 times, yo, K3, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 256 sts. Round 58: (K31, P1, K32, slm) 4 times. Round 59: [Yo twice, (K5, yo, s2kpo, yo) 3 times, K5, yo, K1, P3tog, K1, (yo, K5, yo, s2kpo) 3 times, yo, K5, yo twice, K1, slm] 4 times. 272 sts. Round 60: [(P1, K32) twice, P1, K1, slm] 4 times. Round 61: [(Yo, K1, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2) 4 times, yo, K3, (yo, K2, s2kpo, K2, yo, K1) 4 times, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 280 sts. Round62:Ktoend, slm. Round 63: [(Yo, K3, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1) 4 times, yo, K5, (yo, K1, s2kpo, K1, yo, K3) 4 times, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 288 sts. Round64:K to end, slm. Round 65: [(Yo, K5, yo, s2kpo) 4 times, yo, K7, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K5) 4 times, yo, K1, slm] 4 times. 296 sts. Round66:K toend, slm. Central Flower section is now complete. START LEFT GARTER STITCH EDGING Make 5 chains in scrap yarn using a 4mm crochet hook and slip all 5 loops on to the second circular needle. Using yarn still attached to central section, work across scrap yarn as follows: K1, K2tog K2. Next row (WS): K3, P2tog tbl (working tog 1 edge st with 1 st from central section). Next row (RS): Sl 1 wyib, K3. Rep last two rows using both circular needles, taking in sts from the central section to marker, ending after a WS row. START LEFT WING SECTION Set-up row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, yo, K3. 1 st inc’d. Set-up row 2 (WS): K3, P1, P2tog tbl (working tog 1 edge st with 1 st from central section). Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, yo, K1, yo, K3. Annecy Shawl The Knitter Issue 149
2 sts inc’d. Row 2 (and all WS rows unless otherwise stated): K3, P to last wing st, P2tog tbl (working tog 1 edge st with 1 st from central section). Row 3: Sl 1 wyib, yo, K3, yo, K3. 2 sts inc’d. Row 5: Sl 1 wyib, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, yo, K3. 2 sts inc’d. Row 7: Sl 1 wyib, yo, K7, yo, K3. 2 sts inc’d. Row 9: Sl 1 wyib, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, yo, SSK, yo, K3. 2 sts inc’d. Row 11: Sl 1 wyib, yo, K2, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2, yo, K3. 2 sts inc’d. Row 13: Sl 1 wyib, yo, K1, *yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from * to last 3 sts, yo, K3. 2 sts inc’d. Row 15: Sl 1 wyib, yo twice, s2kpo, *yo, K1, yo, s2kpo; rep from * to last 3 wing sts, yo twice, K3. 2 sts inc’d. Row 16: K4, P to last 2 wing sts, K1, P2tog tbl. Row 17: Sl 1 wyib, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, *yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from * to last 5 wing sts, yo, SSK,yo, K3. 2 stsinc’d. Row 19: Sl 1 wyib, yo, K2, yo, s2kpo, *yo, K1, yo, s2kpo; rep from * to last 5 wing sts, yo, K2, yo, K3. 2 sts inc’d. Row 20: As row 2. Rep rows 13-20 until next corner marker on central section has been reached. Remove marker and work two more rows as set.155stsin wing section. Place left wing sts on holder. START RIGHT GARTER STITCH SECTION Unzip scrap yarn from garter st edging and return 4 sts released on to free circular needle. Rejoin yarn to point of shawl and with WS facing K4. Next row (RS): K3, K2tog (working together 1 edge st with1 st from central section). Next row (WS): Sl 1 wyif, K3. Rep last two rows using both circular needles, taking in sts from the central section to 1 st before marker, ending after a WS row. START RIGHT WING SECTION Set-up row 1 (RS): K3, yo, K2tog (working together 1 edge st with1 st from central section). 1 st inc’d. Set-up row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, P1, K3. Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, K1, yo, K2tog (working together 1 edge st with 1 st from central section). 2 sts inc’d. Row 2 (and all WS rows unless otherwise stated): Sl 1 wyif, P to last 3wing sts, K3. Row 3: K3, yo, K3, yo, K2tog. 2 sts inc’d. Row 5: K3, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, yo, K2tog. 2 sts inc’d. Row 7: K3, yo, K7, yo, K2tog. 2 sts inc’d. Row 9: K3, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, yo, SSK, yo, K2tog. 2 sts inc’d. Row 11: K3, yo, K2, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2, yo, K2tog. 2 sts inc’d. Row 13: K3, yo, K1, *yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from * to last wing st, yo, K2tog. 2 sts inc’d. Row15:K3,yotwice, s2kpo, *yo, K1, yo, s2kpo; rep from * to last wing st, yo twice, K2tog. 2 sts inc’d. Row16:Sl1wyif,K1,Ptolast4wing sts, K4. Row 17: K3, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1), rep to last 3 wing sts, yo, SSK, yo, K2tog. 2 sts inc’d. Row 19: K3, yo, K2, yo, s2kpo, (yo, K1, yo, s2kpo), rep to last 3 wing sts, yo, K2, yo, K2tog. 2 sts inc’d. Row 20: As row 2. Rep rows 13-20 until all sts have been used up. Work two more rows, working final RS K2tog into stitch used at end of left wing. 155 sts in wing section. BOTH VERSIONS WORK TOP EDGE Next row: K along right wing sts, return left wing sts to left needle and knit across them. 310 sts. Workfivemorerows ingarter st. Cast off along top edge as follows: K2, *slip 2 back to left needle, K2tog, K1, rep from * to end. TO FINISH Block shawl to size, pinning out points and following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Weave in ends. The diamond-shaped flower panel is worked from the centre out Annecy Shawl The Knitter Issue 149
Annecy Shawl
Interview Designer, writer and teacher Bronagh strives to inspire and support the creativity of other knitters Bronagh Miskelly ORIGINALLY FROM the north of Ireland, Bronagh Miskelly is now based in London, where she works as a knitwear designer, technical editor, writer and teacher. Bronagh has created many designs for The Knitter, and her elegant shawls are always a delight. We were interested to discover how Bronagh finds ideas for her shawl patterns, so we caught up with her to explore her design process. Can you tell us the stories behind some of your most recent designs? “Inspiration, especially for shawls, usually comes from a combination of the yarn I want to use, and images from nature, landscape or other areas of design. Thisgoesbacktooneof my earliest shawl designs, ‘Salmon Net’. I saw a turquoise laceweight yarn in a display with more muted shades, and immediately thought of pieces of bright blue fishing net among the pebbles on the beach below my childhood home in Donegal. I bought the yarn, and by the time I got home I had some sketches of mesh lace and cables ontheback of the receipt. “With my shawls ‘Firebird’ and ‘Héloïse’ (which appeared in The Knitter issue 145), I picked out self-striping yarns which made me think of tropical flowers or birds. I wanted to find a way of using long colour changes in an interesting way, so I developed what I call my radial sem i-ci rcular shawls. These are workedinshort-row wedges with a widelace outer section. I then sketched and swatched lace stitches to find a pattern that worked with the colours. In ‘Firebird’ this reminded me of plumage, and in ‘Héloïse’ I used a vine-like lace as the colours made me think of climbing flowers. “With my ‘Bethesda’ design for The Knitter 137, it was a different process. Iwaswatching theWonder Woman movie and loved Lindy Hemming’s costume designs, with all the overlapping and diagonal lines on the Amazons’ armour. The challenge was to find a lace yarn that had a hint of steel or bronze about it, rather than a bright colour. I eventually settled on Fyberspates Gleem Lace in the Smokey Joe shade. “At the moment I am working on a set of shawl designs i nspired by the woods near where I live. A particular skein of red yarn was the kicking-off point for these, because it made me think of Grimms’ Fairy Tales. This led to the ‘Into the Woods’ shawl which is being published on Ravelry. The next two – based on the dappled light through the leaves, and on changing leaf colours – will be in The Knitter.” Have you discovered any special yarns lately? “The yarn that I have used to make the ‘Into the Woods’ shawl, and am using for another of my woodland shawls, is a recent discovery that I am really enjoying. It is Banshee Yarns’ CashmereLace. Itisalovelybasefor lace stitches, because it blocks and drapes beautifully and I like the rich semi-solid colours this dyer is using. “I am also looking forward to swatching for some garment ideas in the new Exquisite 4ply from West Yorkshire Spinners. This is a blend of Falkland wool and silk, so I’m expecting it to work well for vintage- inspired sweaters and lacy cardigans – both staples of my design style.” How do you manage to juggle all your different roles and jobs? “Luckily, I am also trained as a theatre stage manager and a TV production manager, so I haveplenty of organisational skills. However, the basic ones are often the best. I have an A4 week-to-two-pages diary, which I divide into colum ns for different tasks, and I like my to-do lists. I put all my deadlines and regular tasks in the diary in different coloured pens. I’ll also set progress points for when I would hope to have, for example, the back of sweater sample knitted. “IfIamathomeatmydesk,Itend to work at the computer in the mornings – doing social media, writing and pattern editing. After lunch I usually spend a couple of hours working on samples, sketching or doing photography, and then I go back to the computer for a few more hours. Working on patterns means ‘Bethesda’ appeared in The Knitter issue 137 Meet The Knitter Issue 149
Interview a lot more computer work than most people think.It all sounds verybusy, but I am one of those people who is most productive whentheyhavelots to do.” Do you have any plans or goals for 2020 that you can share with us? “Having had some family matters to deal withlastyear, I am seeing2020 very much as a rebalancing year. I want to improve the balance between creating my own designs, and pattern writing and sample knitting for other people. I would like to do more teaching, too, as I really enjoy it. “As well as the new shawls I have mentioned, I am relaunching some of myfavourite patterns that were previously published in maga zi nes. I also have plans for a pattern collection using mini-skeins or yarn leftovers - I admit to havi ng a mi ni-skein habit! Thismay turninto an e-book.” If you were stranded on a desert island, what’s the one yarn and pattern book you would choose to take with you? “I would go for an unlimited supply of a wool-rich 4ply yarn, because it is so versatile – garments, shawls, socks – as longasI am washed up withmy needle roll. And the Japanese Knitting StitchBibleby Hitomi Shida would give me lots of inspiration.” What’s the best piece of knitting advice you’ve received? “Take it one stitch as a time. It is advice I often pass on to other people when I am teaching, andisvery useful whenI am working withUKHandKnitting as the Yarn Doctor. We help beginners at big craft events and I do my very best to help people with a range of technical problems. Often, people just need a littlehelpto take things stitch by stitch to work out what they needto do.” What are the best things about being part of the knitting community? “Being surrounded by creativity. From the absolute beginners to experienced knitters, everyone is thinking about what colours, stitches orpatterns to use. I also love helping people build their skills so that theyhave more opportunities to exercise that creativity. I gain great satisfaction from someone having that ‘light bulb’ moment as they get the hang of a new technique.” What’s on your needles today? “Not too many things today: a cotton top; a beanie and mitten set using yarn from Irish Artisan Yarns named after the part of Donegal our family house was in; and a swatch for a shawl. Oh, and a sock – there’s always a sock!” www.lapurplepenguin.com 1 ‘Cobwebs in the Rain’ from The Knitter 125 2 Bronagh teaches techniques including knitting with wire 3 ‘Héloïse’ is a radial shawl design 4 She loves to create vintage-style knits; this is ‘Vervain’ from Issue 137 1 ‘Salmon Net’, Bronagh’s first shawl design 3 2 4 The self-striping ‘ Firebird’ shawl ‘Lange’ is from Issue 129 The Knitter Issue 149