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CONTENTS
IMAGE: JONATHAN STOKES
I S S U E 1 1 7, N OV E M B E R 2 0 2 3
68
N E W YO RK
104
C A M A RG U E
132
AU STR A LI A
158
B RI G HTO N
Discover an American icon on
An annual pilgrimage draws
Campervan adventures Down
The original party town, this
your own terms with these
Romani people to the town
Under, through coastal cities and
East Sussex superstar is still a
unique city experiences
of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
expansive national parks
bastion for counterculture
90
KE N YA
118
TU RKE Y
14 6
STO C KH O L M
174
H OTE L AWA RD S
A new generation of Maasai
Ancient tombs, lemon groves
The character of the Swedish
Your guide to the year’s most
are taking safari tourism into
and mountainside villages on
capital is shaped by the ebb and
exciting openings and refurbs,
their own hands
the sun-drenched Lycian Way
flow of the water around it
from Switzerland to Sydney
1 04 C A M ARGU E
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
9
CONTENTS
Smart traveller
17 | SNAPSHOT Toe-to-toe with
32 | INSIDE GUIDE Wander
an infamous Dawson City delicacy
Guadalajara’s hidden quarters
18 | BIG PICTURE The view from
35 | STAY AT HOME A countryside
Rio de Janeiro’s loftiest attraction
getaway in the North York Moors
21 | PEDAL POWER Long-distance
37 | BOOKS Six seasonal reads to
bikepacking in North Wales
usher in the Day of the Dead
23 | INDIGENOUS TRAVEL A new
38 | KIT LIST Stay warm with these
kind of American heritage tour
cold weather camping essentials
25 | FOOD A taste of Vietnam
41 | COMPETITION Win a four-night
with chef Thuy Diem Pham
trip to Istanbul for two
27 | ON THE TRAIL The history
43 | NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR
beneath Belgrade’s storied streets
Nii Ayikwei Parkes on Guadeloupe
29 | WHERE TO STAY Be spirited
44 | MEET THE ADVENTURER
away with these hotels in Nagoya
British mountaineer Malcolm Bass
30 | FAMILY Five destinations to
46 | ONLINE Highlights from
explore stars, space and science
nationalgeographic.com/travel
48
54
On the cover
60
Insider
Travel talk
Get involved
189 | EVENTS Make the most
48 | WEEKENDER: BISCAY
168 | ASK THE EXPERTS Insider tips
Dotted with sandy coves, this little-
on visiting Chile, ski breaks on a
of this month’s offer
explored Basque region is a hub
budget and bringing food back
191 | SUBSCRIPTIONS Get ready
of biodiversity, history and myth
from your travels post-Brexit
for our latest Travel Geeks event
54 | EAT: KUALA LUMPUR Malaysia’s
170 | THE INFO Get the lowdown on
193 | INBOX Let us know what you
multi-ethnic capital lays claim to a
the Sydney Opera House, 50 years
think of the magazine and be in
diverse and vibrant food scene
after it first opened to the public
with a chance of winning a prize
60 | SLEEP: MUMBAI From Colaba
171 | HOT TOPIC Overtourism is
194 | HOW I GOT THE SHOT
The view from Pier 57 in
to Bandra and beyond , the Indian
back in the news. Why is it such
Photographer Richard James Taylor
Manhattan, New York
city’s booming hotel scene blends
an issue, and are there any
on capturing Dubrovnik’s ethereal
Image: Matt Dutile
heritage and modern glamour
solutions in sight?
atmosphere at sunset
10
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: GETTY; LAURA EDWARDS; THE TAJ MAHAL PALACE
25
CONTRIBUTORS
Marco Ferrarese
With so much choice, getting to know Kuala
Lumpur’s food scene is a never-ending quest.
From haute cuisine to local twists on global
staples, every dish I tried was unforgettable.
My only fear? Being unable to sample
everything on offer. K UA L A L U M P U R P. 5 4
Sarah Marshall
When I first visited Kenya’s Maasai Mara over
a decade ago, a safari looked very different.
Now, the experience has evolved. The
Maasai are benefitting financially, women
are training to be guides, and camps are
becoming more eco-conscious. K E N YA P.9 0
Daniel Stables
With its snow-white horses, the Camargue is
unlike anywhere in France. During my visit, I
attended an otherworldly pilgrimage festival
in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, met the region’s
cowboys and visited Arles, where Vincent van
Gogh shaped his legend. C A M A R G U E P.1 0 4
Editorial Director: Maria Pieri
Editor: Pat Riddell
Managing Editor: Amelia Duggan
Deputy Editor: Amanda Canning
Commissioning Editors:
Lorna Parkes, Georgia Stephens
Assistant Editors: Sam Kemp,
Angela Locatelli
Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell
Executive Editor: Glen Mutel
Associate Editor: Nicola Trup
Content Strategist: Berkok Yüksel
Deputy Digital Editor: Karlina Valeiko
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Deputy Art Director:
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Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2023 and all rights are reserved.
Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling
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Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used
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National Geographic Partners
International Publishing
Editor-in-Chief, NG Media:
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its architecture and its food, but in its
International Editions
geography. Visiting Stockholm, a capital
Editorial Director:
Amy Kolczak
Editor:
Leigh Mitnick
Translation Manager:
Beata Nas
1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC
20036-4688, USA
Alicia Miller
The story of a city is not only in its people,
fringed by both lake and sea, I discovered
how water has shaped every element of this
unique urban centre. S TO C K H O L M P.1 4 6
Orla Thomas
Editors:
CHINA Sophie Huang;
GERMANY Werner Siefer;
ITALY Marco Cattaneo;
LATIN AMERICA Alicia Guzman;
NETHERLANDS Robbert Vermue;
POLAND Agnieszka Franus;
SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim;
SPAIN Josan Ruiz
Headquarters
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National Geographic Traveller
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sponsored or commercial features
will always be clearly labelled.
I first learned what ridiculously good fun
Brighton is during a night out there in my
twenties. After experiencing Kemptown’s
secret garden and the new seafront swimming
pool, I was pleasantly surprised to discover it has
a more wholesome side, too. B R I G H TO N P.1 5 8
12
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Copyright © 2023 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National
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National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.
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Editor’s letter
DON’T MISS
I S S U E 1 1 7, N OV E M B E R 2 0 2 3
Hotel Awards
There are only a handful of cities in the world that make me want to go again and
again and again. And New York, being one of those, always feels like it deserves
an annual visit. Because once you’ve gorged on that famous skyline, marched
Whether you want unique design, delectable
food or simply a chance to escape everyday
life, we’ve scoured the world for the best new
and improved hotels, be it a beach pad in Sri
Lanka or a mountain lodge in Norway. P.1 74
through the five boroughs, rifled in department stores and thrift shops, filled
your face with food, art, music and cocktails… you still want more.
It’s the kind of city you can never get enough of and that’s, in part, because
it rarely stands still. The big-ticket sights are always there — if you ever have
enough time to tick the long list off — but it’s the constantly changing and
growing number of attractions that make it feel like you’ll never see everything.
And it’s this uniqueness, this Only in New York-ness, that we focus on this
issue. Whether it’s spectacular views in brand-new neighbourhoods — Edge
in Hudson Yards, for example — or Governors Island, a former military base
offering glamping within spitting distance of Manhattan, the city is probably
too much to keep up with even if you live there.
From storied hotels and world-famous cocktail bars to its historic food
scene and after-dusk activities, we’ve found 49 ways to make you wish you
were in NYC.
And on a more sombre note, our thoughts are with the people of Morocco and
Travel Geeks
Join our panel of experts on 9 November at
London’s Arboretum members’ club for an
evening dedicated to the treasures of the
Caribbean island of Tobago, from its festivals
and cuisine to its spectacular nature. P.1 8 9
Libya after the tragic events that occurred in September. If you can, please do
donate to one of the relief organisations working hard to help those affected.
Pat Riddell, editor
E D I TO R O F T H E Y E A R — T R AV E L ( B S M E AWA R D S 2 0 2 2 )
S U B S C RI B E TO DAY
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Awards 2023: Travel Magazine of the Year • AITO Travel Writer of the Year 2022 • VisitEngland Awards for
Excellence 2022: Travel Content Award (Gold) • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2021 • LATA Media
Awards 2020: Online Consumer Feature of the Year Award • Travel Media Awards 2020: Consumer Writer
of the Year • British Travel Awards 2019: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • BGTW Awards 2019: Best Travel
Writer • Travel Media Awards 2019: Young Writer of the Year • Travel Media Awards 2019: Specialist Travel
Writer of the Year • AITO Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • BGTW
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G O O N LI N E V I S IT N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .C OM / T R AV E L FO R N E W TR AV EL FE AT U R E S DA I LY
14
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA; TOBAGO TOURISM AGENCY
AWA R D - W I N N I N G N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R
SM ART TR AVELLER
W H AT ’ S N E W • F O O D • O N T H E T R A I L • W H ER E TO S TAY • FA M I LY • I N S I D E G U I D E • S TAY AT H OM E • B O O K S
SNAPSHOT
Terry Lee, Dawson City,
Yukon, Canada
When I arrived in the Yukon in the depths of
winter, all anyone was talking about was Dawson
City’s infamous sourtoe cocktail, a shot of
whisky garnished with a pickled human toe.
I knew I had to experience this local tradition
for myself — if only to get a certificate from
Terry Lee, president of the Sourtoe Cocktail
Club. Legend has it that the original toe
belonged to a Prohibition-era rum smuggler
who got caught in a snowstorm and was forced
to amputate the appendage, preserving it
in a jar of brine. When the frostbitten digit
was found decades later and brought to the
Sourdough Saloon, a local delicacy was born. As
Terry explained, “You can drink it fast, you can
drink it slow, but your lips must touch the toe!”
J E S S I C A J U N G B AU E R • P H O TO G R A P H E R
jessicajungbauer.com
@jessicajungbauer
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
17
BIG PICTURE
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
The cable car to Sugarloaf Mountain is one
of Rio de Janeiro’s most popular attractions.
One overcast Wednesday in March, my dad
and I arrived to see a trail of people waiting
in line, the cables above their heads running
through dense layers of cloud. Unsure of
whether we’d even be able to see the view
from the peak, we stepped into a car with
some locals, who laughed and sang the
whole way up, as though they’d decided to
throw a private party in the clouds. As we
sat suspended, I waited, camera in hand, for
those fleeting moments when the clouds
would part to reveal the world beneath.
Q U I N S C H R O C K • P H OTO G R A P H E R
everchanginghorizon.com
@everchanginghorizon
18
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
19
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S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
T H R E E M O R E L O N G - D I S TA N C E
ROUTES IN THE UK
T R A N S C A M B R I A N WAY
Try linking Traws Eryri with this classic Welsh
trail, which begins on the English border and
concludes just south of Machynlleth. By the time
you reach the market town, you’ll have travelled
108 miles, climbed 13,000ft and passed through
the moody Black Mountains. visitwales.com
K I N G A L F R E D ’ S WAY
Pedal back in time with this 217-mile circular
route around historic Wessex. The trail begins
and ends in Winchester, the supposed resting
place of Alfred the Great, passing ancient pagan
monuments and cutting through the sprawling
South Downs. cyclinguk.org
T H E C A L E D O N I A WAY
Stretching up to Inverness, this 234-mile route
kicks off on the Kintyre Peninsula on Scotland’s
west coast. From here, it heads north, taking in
views of Jura and Arran before meeting with Ben
Nevis and the Great Glen Way. sustrans.org.uk
Clockwise from left: Bikes parked beneath Cader
Idris, a mountain in Eryri National Park; bikepackers
pass farmland on the Traws Eryri trail; a boat moored
at Crinan Canal on Scotland’s Kintyre Peninsula
WA L E S
Pedal power
IMAGES: GETTY; PHILL STASIW/MTB CYMRU
A N E W MU LTI - DAY TR AI L TH RO U G H MO O R S AN D
MO U NTAI N S I NVITE S C YC LI S T S TO D ELVE D EEP
I NTO O N E O F WALE S ’ S WI LD E S T L AN D SC APE S
Draped in heather, studded with boulders and capped by jutting peaks, the
mountainous landscape of Eryri (formerly Snowdonia) feels unimaginably
ancient. Already laced with pathways, this elemental region of North Wales
can now be experienced on a multi-day cycling adventure thanks to a new
route from Cycling UK, the charity responsible for developing other longdistance trails such as King Alfred’s Way and the West Kernow Way.
Opened in August, Traws Eryri begins in Machynlleth, winding 122 miles
through untamed portions of Eryri National Park, the Mawddach Estuary
and the forests of Coed-y-Brenin before reaching the medieval town of
Conwy on Wales’s north coast. Newly negotiated access rights mean that
cyclists can explore this spectacular landscape almost entirely off-road, with
snaking forest trails giving way to rocky mountain scrambles. The route is
certainly challenging, with more than 13,000ft of climbing, and takes four
or five days to complete if tackling it in full. Those wanting to pedal at a more
relaxed pace have the option of breaking the trail into sections using the
railway stations at Machynlleth, Barmouth, Betws-y-Coed and Conwy, the
last of which is home to one of the UK’s best-preserved castles — a sprawling
and turreted stronghold that looms above the town like an all-seeing
sentinel. cyclinguk.org S A M K E M P
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
21
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S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
The Dignity of Earth and
Sky statue, South Dakota
Left: The eastern border of
the new Baaj Nwaavjo I’tah
Kukveni national monument,
Colorado River, Arizona
USA
INDIGENOU S TR AVEL
IMAGES: AMY S. MARTIN; TRAFALGAR DIGNITY
The first peoples of the United States are increasingly telling their story to visitors
Native Dakota
West coast museums
Route 66 reinterpreted
The US’s Indigenous heritage predates the
stars and stripes by some 12,000 years. What’s
much more recent is the growing number of
travel experiences where Native American
communities are highlighting their cultures
on their own terms. One such tour focuses on
less-explored North and South Dakota. The
new nine-day National Parks and Native Trails
of the Dakotas itinerary, from tour company
Trafalgar, takes in the weathered landscapes
and bison ranges of Badlands and Theodore
Roosevelt National Park, and historic sites
such as the memorial to the 1890 massacre
at Wounded Knee. But at the heart of the
programme, designed in partnership with
Native tourism representatives, are the four
Indian Reservations of the Oglala Lakota and
fellow nations, some of which are welcoming
tour groups for the first time. It’s a chance to
learn directly from Indigenous communities,
whether it’s knowledge of the stars from a
Lakota elder or cultural dances of the MHA
Nation. Tours from £2,925 per person.
trafalgar.com
California has a particularly great diversity of
Indigenous cultures, and several new centres
help to give a fuller account of the Native
peoples of the Pacific coast. The revamped
museum of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla
Indians is set to open later this year in Palm
Springs, part of a cultural plaza that includes a
hot spring spa informed by traditional healing
techniques. A museum for the Santa Ynez
Chumash people near Santa Barbara is also
near completion. visitcalifornia.com/native
The American Indian Alaska Native Tourism
Association (AIANTA) has produced a free
digital guide for drivers between Chicago and
Los Angeles, to increase awareness of the rich
Indigenous cultures along North America’s bestknown road trip. Highlights include Cahokia
Mounds, a city of the Mississippian culture that
dates back to 700 CE, and the similarly ancient
but still occupied pueblo settlements of New
Mexico. nativeamerica.travel
Oklahoma’s ancestors
The First Americans Museum opened in
2021 in Oklahoma City, capital of a state that’s
home to 39 Native peoples. The museum hosts
two permanent exhibitions put together by
an all-Native curatorial team. One tells the
stories of Oklahoma’s different peoples and their
ancestral homelands, while the other finds new
ways of presenting artefacts such as beaded
coats or drums, different from their previous
traditional museum-style displays in the
Smithsonian collections. famok.org
Grand Canyon monument
The newest national monument, Baaj Nwaavjo
I’tah Kukveni — Ancestral Footprints of
the Grand Canyon — was listed in August.
It protects the nearly million acres of deep
gorges, pine woodlands and sagebrush prairie
that borders the attraction. This landscape of
great cultural significance is run under the
co-stewardship of a coalition of Indigenous
peoples in Arizona. grandcanyontrust.org
For more information, see nativeamerica.travel
R O RY G O U L D I N G
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
23
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
M U S T-T RY D I S H E S
BUN RIEU
This popular soup from northern
Vietnam is known for its rich blend
of flavours. The red-hued broth
is made with crab, tomatoes, tofu
and aromatic spices and is served
with noodles, fresh herbs and bean
sprouts. It’s rich and hearty, yet also
wonderfully fresh.
BANH XEO
One of my favourite dishes, this
savoury pancake is filled with shrimp,
pork, vegetables and herbs. The
name translates as ‘sizzling cake’ due
to the sound it makes when cooking.
Served wrapped in lettuce leaves and
dipped in a tangy fish sauce, it offers
a burst of flavours and textures.
BO KHO
A flavourful Vietnamese beef stew
beloved for its rich broth. Tender
beef chunks are simmered with
A TA S T E O F
Vietnam
IMAGES: LAURA EDWARDS
A BAL AN C E O F SALT Y, SO U R , S PI C Y AN D SWEE T
FL AVO U R S U N D ERPI N S TH E FRE S H D I S H E S THAT
D EFI N E TH I S SO U TH E A S T A S IAN D E S TI NATI O N
Vietnam’s cuisine has been shaped
over generations by a rich tapestry
of cultural influences. French
colonialism introduced baguettes,
leading to dishes like banh mi
sandwiches; Vietnamese spring
rolls are made with Chinese-style
rice paper; and Indian and Thai
influences are showcased via the
widespread use of spices like star
anise and curry powder.
With its long coastline, lush deltas, fertile
plains and mountains, Vietnam’s landscape
has also played a pivotal role in shaping the
culinary scene. Coastal regions such as Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City offer an abundance of
seafood dishes, whereas the Mekong Delta,
known as the ‘rice bowl’ of Vietnam, provides
vast amounts of the grain along with fruits
and vegetables. Key ingredients include fish
sauce, lemongrass, garlic, shallots and chilli
peppers, and the art of Vietnamese cooking
lies in carefully balancing sweet, sour, salty,
bitter, umami and spicy flavours.
Meals in Vietnam are typically communal
affairs, consisting of several dishes shared
with family and friends. Then
there are the do-it-yourself dishes
such as banh xeo (crispy pancakes)
and goi cuon (summer rolls), which
can be assembled and eaten at the
table. Both styles offer a delicious
dining experience.
Street food culture is an integral
part of the culinary landscape,
with roadside stalls and markets
offering tantalising treats like bun cha
(grilled pork with vermicelli rice noodles).
The atmosphere and aromas of bustling
marketplaces showcase the heart and soul of
Vietnam’s vibrant food scene.
Ho Chi Minh City is the country’s largest
city, and a particularly great place to
experience Vietnamese street food. The bun
thit nuong (pork skewers) served there have
to be the most moreish thing I’ve ever eaten.
There are also all the classics, from banh xeo to
pho, the impossibly delicate and hearty broth
that Vietnam runs on.
Vietnamese Made Easy: Simple, Modern
Recipes for Every Day, by Thuy Diem Pham is
published by Hardie Grant, £22.
lemongrass, star anise and other
spices, creating a tantalising aroma.
Served with crusty bread or noodles,
bo kho offers a delightful blend of
textures and bold, savoury flavours.
Left: Banh xeo
The ingredient
Fish sauce is the staple
of every Vietnamese
larder, used to add salt
and umami to recipes.
It has a slight sour
note to it that should
be considered when
balancing a dish.
THUY
DIEM PHA M
is a London-based
chef and cookbook
author
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
25
KHAKI FIELD
EXPEDITION
DISCOVER MORE
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
ON THE TRAIL
BELGR ADE
Head underground to discover
millennia of history layered
beneath the Serbian capital
1 TA S M A J DA N C AV E S
Belgrade’s foundations stand
above a network of prehistoric
caves — some of the scattered
shells found within them date back
up to eight million years. These
cavernous spaces have housed
a Roman aqueduct system and
military tunnels; more recently,
they served as Second World War
bunkers for Nazi occupiers. Enter
the network from Tasmajdan
Park and explore a section used
by German soldiers escaping
Belgrade’s liberation in 1944.
2 ROM A N C A S T R U M
Continue to the site of a secondcentury castrum (fort). During
the city’s Roman era, a frontline
legion was stationed here to
defend the city (then known as
Singidunum) against impending
forces from the east. Traces of the
garrison are minimal today, but
you can still find evidence of the
monumental gate that once stood
at its entrance: keep a close look
out for its stone foundations at
the intersection of the city’s Knez
Mihailova and Pariska streets.
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE
3 KLUB KNJIZE VNIK A
Take a break from the underworld
to lunch at one of Belgrade’s
most storied restaurants. In its
70-year history, Klub Knjizevnika
(‘The Writers’ Club’) has hosted
stars including Sophia Loren and
Richard Burton, as well as some
of the region’s most acclaimed
literary figures — it was here that
author Ivo Andrić celebrated his
1961 Nobel Prize in Literature.
Tuck into rich servings of pork
alongside savoury beignets (deepfried dough). klubknjizevnika.rs
4 B E LG R A D E F O RT R E S S
Back on Pariska street, Belgrade
Fortress — a more modern
iteration of the castrum — is a
treasure trove for history-lovers.
Inside, an underground space once
used as a gunpowder warehouse
now holds Roman and Byzantine
antiquities; the sculptures and
sarcophagi were excavated from
beneath the city. Moving on,
there’s a Roman Well — used,
according to legend, as a place to
abandon prisoners — and a bunker
used by Cold War leader Josip Tito.
5 G A L E R I JA S TA B
Take a short walk along the
Sava River to the hip Savamala
neighbourhood. Here, the
Galerija Stab art gallery is located
within the eastern arches of
Brankov Bridge and features a
subterranean passage leading
out of the gallery’s main hall. On
display are some of the city’s best
contemporary works, astutely
juxtaposing young Serbian
creativity with the history of the
space that surrounds them.
instagram.com/galerijastab
6 PA N A J OTOV I C
WINE CELL AR
This family-run establishment
has been serving wine below
street level for 90 years,
persevering through the strictures
of the Communist era. Wallmounted candles flicker in the
arched interior, casting a low light
over wooden furniture and barrels
full of wine. Book a tour and a
tasting, settling in for a glass of
Traminac in the atmospheric
cellar. podrumpanajotovic.rs
SJ ARM STRONG
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
27
From
£999
Iceland
Niagara Falls
New York City
Wanderlust Trip
a triple delight
Iceland, Niagara Falls and NYC for just £999
Explore the natural wonders of Iceland, witness the power of Niagara Falls and immerse yourself in the vibrant
atmosphere of New York City. You can also customise your trip with optional extras like baggage, transfers and
exciting tours. Enjoy centrally located hotels and a guided Northern Lights tour (or city tour). Board the famous
Amtrak Maple Leaf Train and enjoy the beautiful ride from Niagara Falls to New York City.
Center Hotel Skjaldbreid
Sheraton Falls View Hotel
Riu Plaza New York Times Square
orbistravels.co.uk
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
Henn na Hotel Express Nagoya Fushimi
The Henn na Hotel brand lives up to its name,
which translates to ‘Strange Hotel’, with lifelike
androids and dinosaur robots staffing its outposts
across Japan. While somewhat less gimmicky,
its most recent opening in Nagoya still uses
technology to maximise comfort, from automated
check-ins to steam closets to refresh your clothes.
From Y8,400 (£46). group.hennahotel.com
The Tower Hotel Nagoya
The centrepiece of Hisaya Odori Park is the Chubu
Electric Power Mirai Tower, Japan’s oldest TV
tower, which has twice been levelled on-screen
by Godzilla. Based inside it is The Tower Hotel
Nagoya, whose rooms — in a nod to the unique
location — are bisected by steel beams and feature
industrial touches such as polished concrete walls
and bold, bright murals. Hotel guests get outof-hours access to the tower’s observation deck.
From ¥45,000 (£246), B&B. thetowerhotel.jp
Lamp Light Books Hotel
W H E R E T O S TAY
Nagoya
HOTEL OPENINGS AND THE NEW GHIBLI PARK
HAVE REINVIGOR ATED THIS JAPANESE CIT Y
This is a book-lover’s dream, where everything is
designed with reading in mind. There’s a 24-hour
bookshop and lending library, which includes
titles in English, and all rooms have comfy
armchairs in which to relax with a novel. The
hushed, library-like vibe belies its central location.
From Y10,499 (£57). lamplightbookshotel.com
REBECCA HALLETT
ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM ONLY, UNLESS
OTHERWISE STATED. IMAGES: GETTY; TIAD; LAMP LIGHT BOOKS HOTEL
TIAD
With its high-rise buildings and broad boulevards,
Nagoya used to be best known for its industrial heritage
— a place to delve into the history of Toyota, which was
founded here, or to browse museums housed in former
factories. That changed late last year, when a more
fantastical reason to visit sprang up just 30 minutes’ drive
to the east: Ghibli Park. As the name suggests, the theme
park is based around Studio Ghibli, the country’s most
successful anime company, which rose to fame with titles
such as Spirited Away and Howl’s Moving Castle.
Visitors keen to spot Studio Ghibli characters like No
Face, or explore settings such as the house belonging to
Satsuki and Mei in My Neighbour Totoro, have a choice of
new hotels to bed down in after a visit to the park. These
include the new TIAD, Autograph Collection, located
in the spruced-up Hisaya Odori Park in central Nagoya.
Many of its 150 rooms overlook the neat rows of trees and
water features below. All are spacious and thoughtfully
designed, with floor-to-ceiling windows and pops of
colour — an ochre sofa here, a turquoise armchair there
— punctuating muted tones and natural woods.
The views are equally sublime at the hotel’s Table for
Tomorrow restaurant, where the terrace overlooks the
greenery. The menu is built around local ingredients
— think marinated bonito with aubergine fondant.
At fine dining restaurant Shuhari, meanwhile, all nine
guests sit around the counter to watch the chefs prepare
a multi-course omakase menu. From Y39,661 (£217).
hotel-tiad.com
Clockwise from
above: Hisaya Odori Park
in the heart of Nagoya;
guest rooms at TIAD have
floor-to-ceiling windows
overlooking the city; Lamp
Light Books Hotel has an
extensive library
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
29
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
The Observatoire du Pic du Midi
sits high in the Pyrenees
Below: Jodrell Bank has several
family-friendly exhibition spaces;
Florida’s Kennedy Space Center
Visitor Complex delves into the
world of NASA
F A M I LY
SPAC E JA M
For kids inspired by India’s moon landing,
here are five destinations where families can
explore the stars, space and beyond
Kennedy Space Center, Florida
The NASA-operated Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex is a must for
aspiring astronauts and space lovers. It’s organised into chronologically
grouped attractions and tours based around mission launches from the
US Space Program. Hands-on experiences range from live presentations
delivered by astronauts, to the new Astronaut Training Experience Center.
At the latter, children aged 10 to 17 (with an accompanying adult) can feel
the sensation of spacewalking and navigating Martian terrain. The Kennedy
Space Center Visitor Complex is also the closest place from which the public
can view rocket launches at Cape Canaveral; check the website for the
schedule. kennedyspacecenter.com
Jodrell Bank, Cheshire
One of Cheshire’s biggest attractions, this world-leading science research
institute is centred around the Grade I-listed Lovell Telescope. Its 35acre grounds include lots of interactive fun and educational exhibits
across several indoor spaces, plus guided pathways to roam and outdoor
installations such as a pair of ‘whispering dishes’ for kids to call between.
Highlights include new permanent displays about the history of Jodrell
Bank, a clockwork orrery (working model of the solar system), and hands-on
science displays in the Space Pavilion. There’s also a programme of familyfriendly events, including the annual Bluedot Festival, which brings together
live music and science workshops each July. jodrellbank.net
There are few observatories in the world where you can eat a delicious
dinner, spend the night stargazing before retiring to a cosy cabin, then get
up to watch the sun rise above the clouds. Getting to the Observatoire du
Pic du Midi from Toulouse is an adventure in its own right, involving a ride
on two cable-cars up to 2,877m. Once there, guided astronomy sessions
help kids discover Saturn and its rings, clusters of stars in deep space and
solar flares on the sun’s surface via some of the world’s most powerful
telescopes. picdumidi.com
Mount Teide, Tenerife
Tenerife is perhaps best known for its beaches, hiking and whale-watching.
But it’s also home to the largest solar observatory in the world, which sits at
an altitude of 2,390m on Spain’s highest mountain, the Teide volcano. Ride
the cable-car up for a scientist-led tour, which includes the chance to observe
the sun through portable solar telescopes. The special family visits include
a fascinating workshop exploring how observatory astrophysicists carry out
their research. volcanoteide.com
Jantar Mantar, Jaipur
A key stop on India’s classic ‘Golden Triangle’ itinerary alongside the
Taj Mahal, the colourful city of Jaipur is home to UNESCO-listed Jantar
Mantar — a unique astronomical observation site built in the Rajasthani
capital in the early 18th century, featuring about 20 large-scale instruments
that look like something straight out of a surrealist painting. Kids can
clamber around the sculpture-like installations in an open-air setting;
a highlight is one of the world’s largest sundials. R H O N DA C A R R I E R
30
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: ALAMY; ANDREW BROOKS; KENNEDY SPACE CENTER VISITOR COMPLEX
Pic du Midi, French Pyrenees
INSIDE GUIDE
GUADAL A JAR A
IT’ S O NE O F ME XICO ’ S B IG G EST AND MOST HI STO RIC C ITIES , B UT JALI SCO ’ S
STATE C APITAL I S O NLY J U ST STEPPIN G INTO THE INTERNATIO NAL LIMELIG HT
L I K E A LO C A L
CABARET VIP
BABEL C LUB
C A L I F O R N I A’ S B A R
The greatest drag
On the three floors
In the main gay area
show in Mexico,
of this venue,
of the historic centre,
complete with a ballet
you’ll find electro
one of Guadalajara’s
Guadalajara-born
troupe. It’s one of the
music and shirtless
best gay bars draws
Mónica is executive
best spectacles in
musclemen; Nineties
everyone from
director of the
Guadalajara — I defy
and Noughties pop;
cowboys to college
Gay Games 2023.
anyone not to be
and hipster mixes
students. The music
gggdl2023.org
on their feet by the
— plus a terrace.
and the beer are
end. instagram.com/
facebook.com/
excellent. facebook.
cabaretvip
babelclub.mx
com/wicho.uribe.96
Mónica Sánchez’s favourite
LGBTQ+ nightlife spots
32
If the restaurant’s colourful locally made crockery has you
hankering to take a piece of Guadalajara home, nearby
Mercado Libertad (also known as Mercado San Juan de
Dios), Latin America’s largest indoor market, has you
covered: the stalls at this three-floor metropolis sell every
handicraft and foodstuff imaginable. las9esquinas.com
The wider Jalisco region provides great day trips, too.
Tequila has been produced here since the late 18th century
and family-run distilleries are popular spots to visit. The
Jose Cuervo Express train service runs from Guadalajara
to Latin America’s oldest distillery, La Rojena, as well as to
agave fields and the town of Tequila itself. Many bus tours
stop for a roadside cantarito (a clay jug of tequila, orange
juice and grapefruit soda). mundocuervo.com
For Guadalajaran culture of a different kind, visit
Tlaquepaque, south of the city centre. One of the country’s
Pueblos Mágicos (‘Magic Towns’, a designation given to
places rich in Mexican history), its colonial-era streets burst
with colour. Known for its ceramics and lined with boutique
galleries and shops, food vendors of every stripe and, yes,
more mariachi bands, it feels like a window into the past.
If you haven’t yet filled up on tortas ahogadas or pozole
(a traditional meat soup), have dinner at Puerto Arrecife,
in the quieter Santa Teresita neighbourhood. The aguachile
(similar to prawn ceviche, but spicier) is among the best
you’ll find. Walk it off on the way to Colonia Americana, a
neighbourhood that’s fast earning a hipster reputation. Now
Guadalajara’s nightlife centre, Avenida Chapultepec and
its surrounds have a host of options that can fit any budget:
try Cerveceria Chapultepec — where everything on the
menu costs 23 pesos (£1) — or the upscale El Gallo Altanero
for perfectly crafted agave-based cocktails. Partying
stretches long into the morning — and, whatever time you
leave, the snack vendors will be ready. instagram.com/
puertoarrecifemx facebook.com/jardinchapultepecmx
galloaltanero.com.mx C H A R L O T T E LY T T O N
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: GETTY; GUADALAJARA TOURISM; @GUTI_SAMB; ALAMY
The birthplace of tequila and mariachi music, Guadalajara
plays a big part in Mexico’s cultural identity. Yet while
Mexico City and Cancun pulse with visitors year-round,
the capital of the west-coast state of Jalisco has retained a
laid-back charm. Its streets are a mixture of grand colonial
cathedrals, vendors slathering chilli sauce onto tortas
ahogadas (‘drowned sandwiches’) and a sprinkling of
galleries and brunch spots. And with the 11th Gay Games
— an international sporting competition for LGBTQ+
athletes — being co-hosted here (along with Hong Kong)
in November, there’s a fresh global focus on Guadalajara.
This is a spread-out city that merits exploration. Start the
day just west of the centre with breakfast at Panadería de
Barrio, a bakery that offer a contemporary twist on Mexican
classics, such as chilaquiles (tortilla chips cooked in salsa
and sprinkled with cheese). From there, head into historic
Zona Centro and stroll the tree-lined boulevards, beginning
at the Plaza de Armas. Take a look inside the majestic
17th-century Guadalajara Cathedral, then head to Plaza
de la Liberación, marked by a statue of the 1800s Mexican
independence campaigner Miguel Hidalgo. This historic
square is among the venues that plays host to the annual
Guadalajara Film Festival, a week-long event usually held
in June that showcases the best of Latin American cinema.
panaderiadebarrio.com ficg.mx
Make your way to the Teatro Degollado to marvel at the
neoclassical theatre’s design, then head on to the Hospicio
Cabañas, one of the oldest hospital complexes in the
Americas, now a World Heritage Site and cultural centre.
In the early 20th century, Mexican painter José Clemente
Orozco decorated its chapel with striking political murals.
ofj.com.mx/teatro-degollado museocabanas.jalisco.gob.mx
Soak up the sounds of mariachi music in the Plaza de
los Mariachis before refuelling at Birriería Las 9 Esquinas,
a local favourite for birria, the spicy, slow-cooked stew,
usually of lamb or goat, for which the city is famed.
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
A dish of chilaquiles
at Panadería de Barrio
Clockwise from left: Decorated
bags at a market in Tlaquepaque
in the city’s suburbs; Guadalajara
Cathedral was completed in
1618; demonstrating charrería
(traditional herding techniques)
in the outskirts of Guadalajara
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
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RIDE TO EXTRA TIME
RIDE IN STYLE WITH 257 URBAN BIKES BY BMC
bmc-switzerland.com/257-urban-bikes
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
S TAY AT H O M E
NORTH YORK MOORS
In equal parts wild and picturesque, this pocket of North
Yorkshire makes for a quintessential countryside getaway
Why go
Where to eat
Driving into the North York Moors National Park
is a bit like delving into the pages of The Secret
Garden — it was indeed these heather-clothed
moorlands that inspired Frances Hodgson
Burnett’s 1911 novel. Granted, this pocket of
North Yorkshire might not be such a secret — its
hiking paths, country pubs and historic villages
have magnetic appeal, and for good reason.
Throw in the Howardian Hills AONB, which sits
on the southern edge of the national park, and
you’ve got yourself one of the UK’s most idyllic
getaways. northyorkmoors.org.uk
For traditional pub grub, make for The Crown
& Cushion in Welburn. The menu is loaded
with comforting dishes — try the steak and ale
pie made with slow-braised Yorkshire Wagyu,
chunky chips, spring greens and homemade
gravy. Where possible, ingredients are sourced
from a kitchen garden 30 miles away in Mount
St John and other suppliers from across the
county. thecrownandcushionwelburn.com
IMAGES: GETTY; CHARLOTTE GRAHAM
What to do
Miles of woodland trails weave through the
unspoilt North York Moors countryside. In the
south west, a five-mile walking route leads from
haunting, 12th-century Byland Abbey, taking
in the villages of Wass and Oldstead plus Snever
Wood before looping back to the start. From
here, take a short drive to Sutton Bank, where
Sutton Bank Bikes can provide you with two
wheels on which to soak up heady views of the
deep-green Vale of Bowbray. The area is also
a Dark Sky Discovery Site, so you might want
to head here at night for a spot of stargazing.
Alternatively, opt for one of the guided night
walks that run throughout the year. englishheritage.org.uk suttonbankbikes.co.uk
Don’t miss
The North Yorkshire Moors Railway turns 50
this year. Celebrate with a ride: hop on the
Pullman Dining Train, which runs until midNovember, for a round-trip from Grosmont to
the market town of Pickering. The hyperlocal
menu served en route includes a Wensleydale
cheese and vegetable bake. rspb.org.uk
W H E R E TO STAY
Castle Howard, an 18th-century
stately home, offers cottages in
local villages. Self-catering The
Green, in Coneysthorpe, is the
ultimate picket-fenced, antiqueladen English lodge. It has two
en suite bedrooms above the
kitchen, lounge and dining area,
and a garden that’s a great place
We like
for an al fresco breakfast. From
At Lawnsgate Farm, around 11 miles west
of Whitby, North York Moors natives Aidan
and Ella Foord arrange guided llama tours.
Options range from a 1.5-hour trek around the
farm to a four-hour excursion into the Moors,
furry companions in tow. Bed down at the
campsite here (opt for the secluded yurt with a
hot tub) before exploring the sights of Whitby.
lawnsgatecampging.com FA R I DA Z E Y N A L OVA
£758 for three nights over the
weekend. castlehoward.co.uk
From top: The rugged, heather-filled
North York Moors, near Levisham village;
the Atlas Fountain is one of the crowning
glories of Castle Howard
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
35
MEXICO. KIND OF.
Start saving for the real thing.
fordmoney.co.uk
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
BOOKS
Hair-raising reads
A S TH E DAY O F TH E D E AD APPROAC H E S , D ELVE I NTO B O O K S THAT COM MU N E
WITH TH E D EC E A S ED, MEE T MO N S TER S AN D U N COVER MYS TERI E S
Big Meg
Famed Australian
palaeontologist and
explorer Tim Flannery
and his scientist
daughter Emma travel
through time in this
rollicking ‘biography’
of the largest predator
ever to exist, charting
shark waters from Australia to Greeland.
‘Big Meg’, or megalodon, was a species of
shark that swam in our waters three million
years ago, whose fossil remains fascinated
early civilisations. £16.99, Doubleday.
Into the Uncanny
If you’re planning a
trip to coincide with
Mexico’s Día de los
Muertos (Day of the
Dead) festivities,
a nationwide
remembrance of
departed ancestors
celebrated every
November, the new edition of Lonely
Planet’s guide to the country should make a
fine companion. Itinerary suggestions and
practical toolkits can help you build your
ultimate trip. £18.99, Lonely Planet.
Living with
the Dead
Very much in the
spirit of Día de los
Muertos, this erudite
travelogue examines
how different cultures
honour their dead.
Wife-and-husband
authors Vibeke
Maria and Andreas Viestad journey to
archaeological sites in Spain, encounter
fantasy coffins in Ghana and learn about
transforming loved ones’ ashes into
diamonds in Norway. £16, Reaktion Books.
Lotería
Taking in the ghosts,
monsters and horror
stories that haunt
Latin American
folklore and fairytales
(many of which predate their European
counterparts), this
classic collection of
short stories by Latina-American author
Cynthia Pelayo is artfully scary. The
acclaimed collection was re-released this
summer, with added illustrations and
bonus stories. £12.99, Agora Books.
The Road to
Gondwana
Despite not having
existed for 180 million
years, the mysterious
‘lost’ supercontinent
of Gondwana is woven
into the consciousness
of those who inhabit
its fragmented
lands across Africa, South America, India,
Australia, Papua New Guinea, New Zealand
and Arabia. Author Bill Morris seeks to
answer the question: what was life like when
it was whole? £19.99, Exisle Publishing.
WORDS: SARAH BARRELL. IMAGE: GETTY
A spin-off of Danny
Robins’ hit podcast
Uncanny, this
book delves into
the stories behind
some of the world’s
weirdest happenings
and paranormal
encounters. Gathering
together tales of UFO sightings, haunted
houses, apparitions and poltergeist activity
across the world from Rome to Enfield,
Danny brings in a team of experts to try and
explain the unexplainable. £22, BBC Books.
Mexico
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
37
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
KIT LIST
COLD -WE ATHER
C A MPING
Make the best of the great outdoors this autumn
with our pick of essentials for off-season camping
1 C R UA KOA L A
M A X X SET HA M MOC K
5 LEDLENSER HF8R CORE
1
R E C H A RG E A B L E H E A D TO RC H
2
This spacious all-weather
hammock comes with a pitched
tarp to stop rain getting in, a
cosy wrap-around quilt and
drawstrings to keep out the cold.
A series of waterproof pockets will
keep your essentials dry — there’s
even an insulated drinks holder.
£419.99. cruaoutdoors.co.uk
2 H E L LY H A N S E N
Thanks to a light beam that dims
and focuses automatically, this
rechargeable, water-resistant
head torch is sure to keep your
pitch well lit, leaving your hands
free to toast a marshmallow
or two. It has three brightness
levels and a battery life of up to
90 hours. £119.95. ledlenser.co.uk
3
6 VAU D E M A R K L 3
N O R DV I K 2 B O OT S
B AC K PAC K I N G T E N T
When camping off season,
much of your morale depends
on keeping your feet dry. These
low-cut rubber boots from
Helly Hansen, a specialist in
weather-protective gear, are
grippy and lightweight without
compromising on style, plus easy
to slip on and off on entering your
tent. £65. hellyhansen.com
There’s not much this tent can’t
withstand. It’s all thanks to its
aerodynamic tunnel design and
sturdy pole frame, which easily
clips together and attaches to the
combined waterproof flysheet and
canopy — pitching takes minutes.
The tent can sleep up to three, but
is perfect for two seeking comfort.
£549.95. absolute-snow.co.uk
4
5
3 PATAG O N I A WOM E N ’ S
7 FJÄ L L R ÄV E N VA R DAG
R 2 T E C H FAC E H O O DY
This durable layer can keep
you feeling toasty even in brisk
weather — perfect for those chilly
nights when you still want to
make the most of time spent in
nature. It’s water-repellent and
warm, with a high-loft, doubleweave fabric, yet still breathable.
Made in a Fair Trade Certified
factory. £200. patagonia.com
H Y D R AT I C A N O R A K
6
7
8
In autumn and winter, clear skies
are never guaranteed; when the
heavens open, this pull-on jacket
can shield you from the elements.
It’s waterproof and breathable,
with zippered sides for ventilation
and a handy kangaroo pouch.
Made from recycled polyester,
it has an adjustable hood and a
relaxed fit. £275. fyallraven.com
4 B I O L I T E F I R E P I T+
8 N E MO F O RT E E N D L E S S
As the evenings become
chillier and the skies darken
earlier, the importance of the
campfire grows. This intelligent
firepit offers all the warmth and
pleasant crackling of an ordinary
option, but it uses air jets to
eliminate practically all of the
fumes. You can even control the
size of the flames via the app.
£300. cotswoldoutdoor.com
P ROM I S E S L E E P I N G B AG
38
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
When shoulder season comes,
a well-insulated sleeping bag
is your ticket to a good night’s
sleep. This option can cope with
temperatures down to -7C, with an
added draft collar and synthetic
insulation that will stay warm
even when wet. Fully recyclable.
£219.99. nemoequipment.eu
GEORG IA STE PHE N S
MANGROVES & MANATEES
CRYSTAL RIVERS & WHITE BEACHES OF FLORIDA
Experience another side to Florida with its magnificent flora
and fauna. While often known for its theme parks and thrills,
the unique landscape of mangroves, wetland, ocean and river is
also home to a wide variety of animals, birds and marine life.
Explore the quaint and quirky beaches of the Atlantic Coast,
Central Florida's glittering lakes and wide open spaces,
plus the hidden treasures of Florida's Panhandle on this
sun-soaked motorhome adventure.
11 NIGHTS FROM
£2,149 ◊
Direct flights, fully inclusive car hire and 3★ to 4★ hotels
• Miami • Fort Myers • Sarasota • Central Florida • Crystal River
15 NIGHTS FROM
£1,529 #
Direct flights, 14 nights motorhome hire sleeping up to
5 people incl 1,000 miles and 1 night Orlando hotel
• Orlando • Gulf Coast Beaches • Paynes Prairie State Park
• New Smyrna Beach • Daytona Beach
ALL YOUR TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS TAKEN CARE OF IN ONE PLACE
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“Truly excellent: patient,
friendly, helpful and
a mine of knowledge,
tips and advice.”
C OM P E T I T I O N
WIN
A FOUR- NIGHT TRIP
TO I STANBU L FOR T WO
National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed up with Vakko Hotel &
Residence and Pegasus Airlines to offer a stay in Istanbul’s latest fashion hotel
T H E D E S T I N AT I O N
Located in the heart of glamorous Nişantaşı, this
new boutique property from clothing brand
Vakko blends comfort and style, immersing
From above: The Hagia Sophia Mosque
at sunset; a suite at Vakko Hotel
& Residence; the dining room of the
hotel restaurant
guests in Istanbul’s fashion district. Housed in an
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; SERKAN ELDELEKLIOGLU/VAKKO HOTEL & RESIDENCE; PEGASUS AIRLINES
elegant building above the Vakko flagship store
and original Vakko L’Atelier, a cafe renowned for
TO E N T E R
its handmade patisseries and artisan chocolates,
Answer the following question online
the property has 31 spacious suites, an all-day
at natgeotv.com/uk/competitions
bistro-style restaurant, as well as wellness and
fitness facilities. On the top floor, you’ll find
W H AT ’ S T H E N A M E O F
The Vakko Room, a spectacular penthouse
T H E WAT E RWAY T H AT
— currently available for private event bookings
D I V I D E S I S TA N B U L?
— with a 540sq ft terrace overlooking the
Bosphorus Strait. The hotel’s prime location
The competition closes on 31
on Abdi Ipekci Avenue, one of Istanbul’s most
November 2023. The winner must
exclusive shopping streets, ensures easy access
be a UK resident and aged 18 or
to the city’s historical landmarks and designer
over. Full T&Cs at natgeotv.com/uk/
boutiques. Some of Istanbul’s best restaurants,
competitions
art galleries and interior design stores are also
all within walking distance.
THE PRIZE
The winner and guest will be treated to a fournight stay in a Premiere City Suite in Istanbul’s
Vakko Hotel & Residence, receiving transfers to
and from Sabiha Gökçen International Airport.
The prize also includes two economy class
return tickets courtesy of Pegasus Airlines,
Turkey’s leading low-cost carrier, with daily
direct flights to Sabiha Gökçen available from
either Stansted or Manchester. Blackout dates
apply. vakkohotel.com flypgs.com
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
41
■
FRESNO/CLOVIS
CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU
NOTHING GLOOMY ABOUT
FRESNO COUNTY WINTERS.
Immerse yourself in Fresno County's vibrant holiday festivals, discover the
stunnning Fresno County Blossom Trail and explore the wonders of
three national parks.
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR
NII AYIK WEI PARKES
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
Delving into the history of sugarcane production in Guadeloupe proves
fertile ground for both fiction and painful, first-hand discovery
There’s a line in the poem Goodman’s Bay by
the Bahamian poet Christian Campbell that
reads, ‘God, there is too much red in the sky!’
I consider the line beautifully dramatic until
I stand on the shore at dusk in Basse-Terre
and find it apt. My unfamiliarity with the
immensity of sky and sea on a tropical island
in the Western Hemisphere makes everything
seem unreal — every colour more intense,
every horizon more distant. This aura of the
surreal makes my arrival in Guadeloupe feel
like it belongs to both fiction and reality, a
liminal universe not unlike my writing, which
questions the world by seeking to reimagine
it from the perspective of suppressed cultures
— the inverse of what we’ve come to accept
as official history. It’s wondering writing, it’s
wandering points of view.
I’ve arrived in the midst of writing a novel,
Azúcar, set on an imagined Caribbean island
that was a major sugar and rum producer.
While you can find sugarcane almost
anywhere in Guadeloupe, the oldest rum
distillery — Distillerie Bologne — is in the
island’s capital, Basse-Terre, where I find
the sky red. I’ve come for personal reasons,
too: one of my direct ancestors, a Thomas
Parkes, was born here during the period
when Basse-Terre was captured by African
men who’d become pioneers of Britain’s West
Indies Regiment. My plan is to walk past the
sugarcane farms that feed the distillery on
my way to a factory tour. I have notes from my
novel and questions on my family, and I spread
them on the floor of the apartment I’ve rented
in Saint Claude. I spend the night reading.
In the morning, I eat some bananas and head
out, a bottle of water in hand.
The road I must walk shows up on Google
Maps as D26. Just under a kilometre in,
I realise it’s not meant for walking; the road
leaks directly into the flora on either side,
so every few metres I have to stop to let cars
pass by. In these traffic-enforced pauses,
I process the history I read the night before,
while taking in the vast skies. 1764, when
Monsieur Bologne de Saint-Georges fell on
hard times and put the distillery estate up
for sale, was just one year after the period of
British occupation of Basse-Terre that lasted
from 1759 to 1763. Had that administrative
shift affected profits? It doesn’t escape me
that the now-famous French composer Joseph
Bologne — the nephew of Bologne de Saint-
This aura of the surreal
makes my arrival feel like it
belongs to both fiction and
reality, a liminal universe
not unlike my writing,
which questions the world
by seeking to reimagine
it from the perspective of
suppressed cultures
Georges, born to an enslaved girl here 19 years
prior to the estate sale — was already in France
making a name for himself. Not yet for his
music, but for possessing the ‘greatest speed
imaginable’ for a swordsman.
After another kilometre, flanked on both
sides by cane fields, I come upon a private
road on my left, a clear path through towering
sugarcane plants, tapering to merge with a
thicket of trees and hills beyond. Above it all,
the sky is endless. It’s the second time I’m
stunned by scale in Guadeloupe, but it’s the
trees in the far distance that strike me. They
represent for me both the majesty and horror
of the plantation. Those trees are reflective
of the island’s natural flora, and to fill in so
many hectares with sugarcane, somebody
must have cleared the lansan, the ikaku, the
courbaril, the acerola, the acacia — and as
the chainsaw wasn’t invented until the 19th
century, the clearing was done by hand.
I have an unexpected somatic reaction.
I’m overwhelmed by emotion, and I remember
a key detail from the bill of items when
Distillerie Bologne was put up for sale: a jail.
Sweat pools in my armpits and tears run down
my face. My ancestors worked under these
skies, caught between the cane fields and the
jail; if you didn’t work, you were punished,
scarred by whip or placed behind bars.
I realise I’m not emotionally prepared to
take a tour of the distillery. I reach for my
phone, take a photograph and turn back the
way I came.
What I’ve learned is that history haunts
all stories, it gives as much as it withholds
and there’s no telling how it’ll seep into the
present. The narrative energy of Azúcar
reflects this truth as well as the specifics, such
as one of the protagonists playing a section
of Joseph Bologne’s opera L’Amant Anonyme.
As I walk back towards my apartment, I’m
almost grateful that the road is called D26;
when your history is trauma, sometimes you’d
rather it had no real name. Sometimes all you
can do is take a photograph filled with light,
devoid of the earth’s heat and the trembling
in your body, framed by the cane that gives
us the burn of rum and the salve of molasses,
capturing the simultaneous closeness and
distance of those island skies.
Azúcar by Nii Ayikwei Parkes is published by Peepal
Tree Press, £10.99.
niiparkes.com
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
43
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R
MEET THE ADVENTURER
Malcolm Bass
TH E B RITI S H MO U NTAI N EER AN D S TRO KE S U RVIVO R D I SC U S S E S C LIMB I N G I N
AL A S K A , H I S RECOVERY AN D H OW PU N K I N S PI RED H I S E ARLY E XPED ITI O N S
What about your most euphoric moment? My friend Paul
Figg and I had made it to the summit of Alaska’s Mount
Hunter [Begguya in the language of the native Dena’ina
people] using a new route on the east face, the base of
which we’d reached via ski plane. Because of a lack of
airspace, the plane couldn’t come back to pick us up,
so we were forced to descend over the west side knowing
there wasn’t a safe route down. When we finally made
it back, we were ecstatic — not only because we were
alive, but because we’d stashed loads of food back at
base camp. For days, we’d been eating soup from plastic
sachets, but we knew that we’d soon be tucking into bagels,
eggs and smoked salmon. The prospect of gluttony was
incredibly euphoric.
In August 2020 you experienced a severe stroke. How
has your life changed since then? My life has changed
in every conceivable way, as has the life of my wonderful
wife Donna, who, with great love and kindness, sacrificed
her career as a triathlete to look after me. Before I had the
stroke, we’d go on long bike rides every weekend. I now
need 24-hour care and can barely walk without a stick.
Donna hasn’t been on her bike for months and I climb
maybe once or twice a year on a rock wall. Truthfully, I
don’t see Himalayan climbing as being a realistic prospect
for a very long time.
What has been your most challenging moment?
Probably my first lead up a piece of vertical ice in the
Scottish Highlands. Not only did I have no idea what I was
doing, but I’d also managed to bring completely inadequate
equipment. When leading, you have to place screws in the
wall and clip into them as you go, while the belayer controls
the safety rope. I had some ice screws on my harness but no
way of hammering them in, so I just pressed them into the
melting ice in a rather pathetic way and shouted down to my
companion that I was stuck. I eventually made it to a section
where the ice had completely melted away, allowing me to
put in stable screws and belay my friend, but it was touch
and go for a while.
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Has the stroke changed your understanding of adventure?
As my strength has decreased, adventure has only moved
closer to home. Things that previously seemed mundane
now seem quite thrilling. Swimming out into the open water
with Donna, for example, or walking 25 metres without my
stick. Then there’s my actual recovery. I’m on this strange
journey and I don’t know where I’ll end up — that, for me,
is the very definition of adventure. I N T E RV I E W: S A M K E M P
Malcom and Donna run the #MoveMountainsForMalcom
fundraising campaign, which seeks to provide Malcolm with
vital equipment, therapy and home support.
stroke.org.uk
@move_mountains_for_malcolm
READ THE FULL
I N T E RV I E W
O N L I N E AT
N AT I O N A L
GEOGR APHIC .
C OM / T R AV E L
IMAGE: HAMISH FROST
How did you get started in mountaineering? I grew up
hiking across the North Yorkshire Moors before getting into
caving at university. In the UK, many caves still haven’t been
surveyed, so I had the opportunity to explore completely
unmapped terrain, which gave me the confidence to go out
and find new climbing routes in the Scottish mountains.
It was the punk era and I was highly influenced by the idea
that you could just go out, learn three chords and release
a single — it made me realise that I didn’t need anyone’s
permission. After learning to climb in Scotland, I went
straight to the Himalayas. I was done waiting.
What advice would you give to fellow stroke survivors?
A stroke is an enormous psychological trauma and will
leave in its wake depression, hopelessness, anxiety
and anger. Don’t be hard on yourself if you’re feeling
downhearted or dispirited — those feelings are kind of
inevitable. Be sure to engage fully with your rehab, for one
thing, and don’t be afraid to ask for support. My other piece
of advice isn’t just for stroke survivors, it’s for everyone:
every second someone is having a stroke, more brain cells
are dying, so it’s vital everyone knows the F.A.S.T. test,
which is a mnemonic designed specifically to help people
detect the signs of a stroke and get the victim to hospital as
quickly as possible.
W H AT ’ S O N L I N E
HOW TO PL AN A FA MILY
C IT Y BRE AK TO PARI S
With Disneyland on its doorstep, shop windows piled high with patisserie and the Eiffel
Tower to climb, France’s capital never fails to charm families. Words: Nicola Williams
What to do
Climbing the Eiffel Tower is justifiably one of
Paris’s most popular family attractions. Book
your online ticket carefully to ensure the most
appropriate stair/lift combo — it’s 674 steps
or a lift to the second floor, from where a final
obligatory lift whisks everyone to the top.
Much of Parisian life revolves around green
spaces, so head next to the historic Jardin
du Luxembourg, one of the city’s grandest
— chasing toy sailing boats around its
ornamental pond has long been a boisterous
family activity. On a rainy day, young
inventors will enjoy sheltering at Le Marais’
Musée des Arts et Métiers, an 18th-century
museum of technological gadgetry.
Where to eat
Paris is good at crowd-pleasers, and a meal
of savoury and sweet crepes at Breizh Café in
Le Marais neighbourhood is a Parisian rite of
passage. Patisserie is another highlight — try
the spellbinding cakes and tarts, artfully
designed to resemble fruits and flowers, by
celebrity pastry chef Cédric Grolet. You can
buy to take away or treat the kids by taking a
table in the cafe above his patisserie shop on
avenue de l’Opera. For savoury meals, another
Parisian family favourite is the farm-to-fork
brunch and an exhilarating run-around at
the urban farm and arts centre La REcyclerie,
located on Paris’s abandoned Petite Ceinture
railway line.
Where to stay
Less than a mile from the Eiffel Tower, Yooma
Urban Lodge has quirky features such as a
robot concierge and doughnuts for breakfast,
as well as the practical benefits of a laundrette
and six-person rooms with sleeping pods and
bunks for larger families. Or, for an inspiring
budget choice, try the caravans, six-person
chalets and riverside tent pitches at Camping
de Paris in the far west of the capital. The
site is easily connected to the city centre via
a shuttle bus to the nearest metro station;
confident cyclists can rent bikes to pedal the
four miles from the campground through the
Bois de Boulogne park to the Eiffel Tower.
READ MORE ONLINE
TOP
STORIE S
Here’s what you’ve
been enjoying on the
website this month
SWITZERL AND
The changing face of yodelling
The Swiss tradition has found its
way into rebellious Eurovision pop
songs and feminist choirs
46
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
CON SUMER RIGHTS
Air travel disruptions
The latest on what to do if you’re
faced with flight cancellations as
well as delays to or from the UK
A DV E N T U R E
Wild camping in Scotland
How to pitch your tent responsibly,
from where you can camp to what
you need to bring with you
THE STORY B EHIND BA SQ U E
BU RNT C HEE S EC AKE
B E YO N D T H E
T R AV EL S EC T I O N
T H E TA PA S B A R W H ER E T H I S WO R L D - R EN OW N ED D E S S ERT WA S C R E AT ED
H A S B EEN S ERV I N G I T U P S I N C E T H E 1 9 8 0 S . WO R D S: M A RT Y B U C K L E Y
Caramelised on top, jiggly in the centre, with
no garnish — the cheesecake from La Viña in
San Sebastián, Spain, has captivated diners
the world over. The internet offers an array of
variations — flavoured with purple yam, baked
in a heart shape, slathered with speculoos (a
spiced biscuit) cream. But for a taste of the
original, count on La Viña to never change.
Origins
La Viña was founded in 1959 by brothers Eladio
and Antonio Rivera and their wives Carmen
Jiménez and Conchi Hernáez. A passionate
cook, Eladio’s son Santi started working in
the bar from a young age. Cheesecake wasn’t
a Basque dish, but cream cheese and other
‘modern’ foods were reaching Spain for the
first time, and Santi loved to experiment. The
cheesecake was served for years, but it was
only when pintxos (Basque tapas) tours took off
in the 2000s that foreigners discovered it.
How it’s made
A classic Basque burnt cheesecake contains
nothing more than cream cheese, eggs, cream,
sugar and a bit of flour. What makes this
dessert unique is its ‘missing’ ingredients
and ‘incorrect’ technique: while a normal
baked cheesecake involves cooking the
custard at a relatively low heat, this cake is
cooked at a temperature that’s technically too
high. Basque burnt cheesecake is, at heart, a
rough-and-ready dessert — but therein lies its
deliciousness. R E A D M O R E O N L I N E
|
|
Extremely rare sperm whale birth
caught on camera
The last scientific record of a sperm
whale birth was in 1986, without
audio or video. New recordings of
the whales’ behaviour will provide
researchers with valuable insights.
natgeo.com/animals
|
IMAGES: GETTY; BRIAN SKERRY; NAT GEO IMAGE COLLECTION
A N I M A L S
S C I E N C E
|
The five ‘blue zones’ where the
healthiest people live
From Ikaria in Greece to Loma
in Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula,
different cultures across the world
have discovered the secrets to
growing old — and staying healthy.
natgeo.com/science
|
VI S IT N ATG E O.C OM / TR AV E L FO R N E W TR AVEL FE AT U RE S DAILY
H I S T O R Y
|
Roman swords found hidden
away in pristine Dead Sea cave
The new discovery in Israel of four
swords that are nearly 2,000 years
old evokes ancient rebellions and
offers an exciting opportunity for
scientific investigation.
natgeo.com/history
S E A RC H F O R
N ATG E OT R AV E LU K
FAC E B O O K
I N S TAG R A M
X (T WITTER)
GREECE
Sailing aboard a supply boat
Help crew members ferry cheese
and honey around remote islands
for an authentic taste of Greece
H AWA I I
Can tourists help Maui recover?
In the face of devastating losses,
residents are asking visitors to
return — but to do so respectfully
SOUVENIRS
How to spot the real deal
With AI and 3D printing, how can
you tell real local crafts apart from
mass-produced duplicates?
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
47
WEEKENDER
BISCAY
Visitors to northeastern Spain rarely make it to this little-explored Basque
region curled around Bilbao, where sandy coves, rock hermitages and
mythology-soaked hills beckon adventurous souls. Words: Daniel Stables
Anchored by the city of Bilbao, the Basque
province of Biscay in northern Spain
encompasses some of the country’s most
beautiful landscapes and one of Spain’s most
distinctive cultures. Forest-covered mountains
hide alpine cabins and religious sanctuaries
where Christianity rubs shoulders with pagan
Basque mythology, while the coastline is
peppered with coves, caves and islands. The
region is also spared the blistering heat of
southern Spain and there’s just enough rain
to keep the countryside a glittering emerald
green. And those who prefer not to fly can reach
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Biscay easily via the twice-weekly ferry from
Portsmouth to Bilbao.
Food is another highlight. The Cantabrian
Coast delivers a rich bounty of seafood — eels,
cod and anchovies are particularly celebrated
— that’s put to magnificent use in the region’s
many acclaimed restaurants. Basque people
are fiercely independent and proud of their
cultural heritage — which is evident in local
kitchens. Join the locals in a txikiteo (barhopping, while munching on pintxos and
quaffing Basque white wine), and you’ll be
welcomed as an old friend.
TO P T H R E E
Viewpoints
MIRADOR DE LAS
TRES CRUCES
Urkiola Natural Park
has some of Biscay’s
most impressive alpine
hiking trails. For the
best viewpoint, walk
the forest path from the
Sanctuary of Urkiola to
the Mirador de las Tres
Cruces, where three huge
crosses frame mighty
mountain views.
B A LC O N Y O F B I S C AY
The Balcón de Bizkaia
viewpoint is in the foothills of
Mount Oiz on the outskirts
of the Urdaibai Biosphere
Reserve. Just off the BI-3231,
it’s easily reached by car and
promises an abundance of
hilly, forested countryside
where, legend has it, witches
gather after nightfall.
E R M I TA D E S A N P E D R O
D E AT X A R R E
The lookout point from
the summit of Mount
Atxarre, near the town of
Ibarrangelu, is enough to
inspire religious fervour
in even the sternest nonbeliever. The climb to the
15th-century hermitage of
San Pedro is steep in places,
but commands majestic
views over oak woodlands.
DAY O N E BE ACHES & B IOSPHERE E XPLOR ATION
Morning
Afternoon
Evening
Where the suburbs of Bilbao meet
After lunch, drive 45 minutes east
Back on dry land, make the short
the Bay of Biscay, marvel at the
to the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve,
drive from Bermeo to the Cape
mighty Vizcaya Bridge, the world’s
an estuary region where land
of Matxitxako, joining the crowds
first transporter bridge. The
meets sea in a shifting mandala
watching the sun set over the
towering span of latticed metal
of sandbanks, oak forests and salt
Bay of Biscay to the west. Then,
was built in 1893 to transport iron
marshes. Tour operator Hegaluze
head back to cloister yourself in
across the River Nervión. Pick up
runs boat trips from the pretty
Bermeo’s cosy tavernas for a night
an audio guide at the ground-
medieval harbour town of Bermeo
of txikiteo (bar-hopping centred
level information centre to learn
to sea coves and the remains of
around pintxos, the Basque version
about the region’s rich iron-mining
a Franciscan hermitage on the
of tapas). Favoured local haunts
heritage, then ascend in a lift for
island of Ízaro. Today, you’ll find
include Kafe Loidxie and Bar Beti
views of the medieval towns of
only cormorants and gulls pecking
Ondo, but just follow the crowds
Getxo and Portugalete.
among the ruins. Another route
and you won’t go far wrong.
leads from the craggy Cape
Pintxos can involve any number of
surfers’ beach at Sopela, pausing to
of Matxitxako to the islet of
ingredients — anchovies, piquillo
admire rock formations known as
Gaztelugatxe, its coast riddled with
peppers, goat’s cheese — nearly
flysch, which line the sand. Tectonic
rock arches. Disembark to ascend
always skewered on a stick with a
activity has caused the rock layers
a winding stairway to a terracotta-
piece of bread. The accompanying
to splay outward, concertina-like.
roofed chapel. The coastline is also
drink of choice in this area is txakoli,
Take a refreshing dip before a
a good place for beaked, sperm
a dry white wine with just a hint of
seafood lunch at beachside El Peñón
and pilot whale sightings between
bubbliness, produced in vineyards
country is famous for its
restaurant. flyschbizkaia.eus/en
April and October. hegaluze.com
across Biscay.
pintxos culture
IMAGES: GETTY
Continue north east to the
From left: The Chapel
of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
is accessible by boat
from Bermeo; the Basque
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
49
Discover Mallorca’s
picturesque landscapes
Embark on a captivating journey through Mallorca’s enchanting landscapes with Fincallorca as your base for
your Mallorcan experience. This island of endless variety beckons with a multitude of offerings — from splendid
outdoor activities to exquisite beaches. Enjoy the embrace of unspoilt coastlines and be seduced by the lure
of luxurious villas, where the symphony of nature harmonises with the gentle tranquility of an on-site pool. Our
carefully handpicked range of villas, accompanied by an array of filter options on our website, ensures that
your quest for the perfect summer holiday will be a swift and gratifying one.
“Fincallorca is the premier brand for exclusive holiday homes in Mallorca.
What sets us apart is our direct and long-standing collaboration with
homeowners, as well as our uncompromising commitment to delivering
exceptional quality and service to our guests” Lara Cygan de Meza
www.fincallorca.com
WEEKENDER
TO P F I V E
Local specialities
DAY T WO RELIGIOUS HISTORY & FOREST ART
Morning
Afternoon
Evening
IDIAZABAL
Begin your exploration of Biscay’s
Head back to the coast and the
As the tide goes out in Lekeitio, a
The milk of the long-haired
forested interior with a visit to
pretty town of Lekeitio for a Basque
miracle occurs: a wooden walkway
Bosque de Oma, where artist
feast at Egaña. The restaurant
appears from the sea, leading from
Agustín Ibarolla has created a forest
specialises in traditional food. Dishes
the main beach to pretty Saint
art installation by painting tree
vary according to the availability of
Nicolás Island. Once a quarantine
trunks with colourful plants, animals
ingredients, but might include baby
island for plague victims, today
and geometric patterns. The work
squid in its own ink or mamia,
it’s a picture of tranquillity, tufted
jelly — a delicious way to
reflects humanity’s relationship with
a curdled sheep’s curd dessert.
with pine trees. If tide times allow,
round off any Basque feast.
nature — something you can also
Latxa and Carranzana
sheep, which graze the
Biscay hillsides, is used to
produce this hard cheese
with a smoky, nutty flavour.
It’s often served with quince
After lunch, take a walk along
explore the ruins of a 16th-century
marvel at in the nearby Santimamiñe
Lekeitio’s waterfront, lined with
hermitage, before ascending to
PE RC E BE S
Caves, its walls adorned with
colourful 19th-century buildings,
the tiny island’s summit for views of
They don’t look very
paintings of bison, deer, horses and
and then pop in to the Basílica de
Lekeitio and the Biscay coast.
bears dating back 14,000 years.
la Asunción de Santa María, whose
As the evening draws in, drive
From here, drive east for half
golden Flemish-gothic altarpiece,
inland to the Atxondo Valley, where
an hour to the Hermitage of San
depicting the life of Jesus in gilded
forests and craggy mountains
Miguel de Arretxinaga, where a
panels, is one of the most impressive
are often wreathed in mist.
chapel has been built around three
sights in Biscay. Afterwards,
Overlooking the landscape is Mendi
taste of the ocean to rival
huge boulders. The church lies
make for the local beach to swim,
Goikoa Bekoa, an 18th-century
the best oysters. They’re
on the famous Camino del Norte
sunbathe or rent kayaks or standup
farmhouse restaurant with rooms
dangerous to harvest, and
pilgrimage route. Walk a stretch of
paddleboards from UR Lekeitio.
serving Basque delicacies such as
as such are a prized delicacy.
it before lunch. bosquedeoma.com
eganarestaurante.com
veal cheek, tuna belly salad or tripe
tourism.euskadi.eus
urlekeitio.com
soup. mendigoikoabekoa.com
appetising — rather like a
dog’s foot, in fact — but pull
open the scaly exterior of
these goose-neck barnacles
and you’ll find delicious,
salty flesh within; a pure
K A L I M O T XO
Red wine and cola may
not sound like the most
obvious combination, but
that’s exactly what stars in
this surprisingly refreshing
drink. It was invented, so the
story goes, in the Old Port
of Algorta, close to Sopela,
when festival organisers
worried they were going to
run out of wine.
BASQUE CHEESECAKE
This photogenic Basque
speciality is a hit on social
media. Unlike traditional
cheesecakes, it doesn’t
have a biscuity base, but
is instead baked to give it
a delicious, caramelised
outer layer — hence why
it’s sometimes described as
‘burnt cheesecake’.
S AG A R D O
While local sparkling white
wine txakoli is the most
common accompaniment to
pintxos, the region’s other
signature drink is sagardo,
or Basque cider. It’s still,
rather than fizzy, and can
be found at traditional
sagardotegis (cider houses)
from mid-January to April,
accompanied by cod, steak
IMAGE: ALAMY
and cheese.
Right: Agustín Ibarolla’s
painted tree trunks at
the Bosque de Oma
forest gallery
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
51
WEEKENDER
Pilgrims’
way
The coastline
from Bilbao all
the way east to
San Sebastián
is walkable on
around 100 miles
of footpaths, and
makes up part
of the popular
Camino del Norte
pilgrimage route.
Follow the red
and white stripes,
painted on fence
posts and rocks,
which mark the
footpath
Left: Cows grazing in the
Atxondo Valley, a popular
hiking area wreathed in
Basque myths and legends
Atxondo Valley
Symbols and carvings
Izenaduba Basoa
Christianity came to the Basque
Within the Atxondo Valley, you’ll
The story of Olentzero, the
Country as early as the seventh
notice a symbol resembling a
regional equivalent of Santa
MORE INFO
century, but the old gods never
propeller adorning the front
Claus, is a vivid example of Basque
visitbiscay.eus
really left. That’s just as well,
of many of the houses. Known
Christian-pagan fusion. Olentzero
because they make up a vivid cast
as the lauburu, this is the most
is depicted as a mythical giant
HOW TO DO IT
of characters who add colour and
famous symbol of Basque culture,
in the garb of an old peasant
EasyJet and Vueling
life to the region’s already vibrant
said to predate the arrival of
man, who comes down from the
fly to Bilbao daily from
natural and cultural landscapes.
Christianity. It’s one of many
mountains bearing presents each
British airports including
Mari, the goddess of the Basques,
ancient esoteric symbols on
Christmas Eve. In the town of
Manchester, London
is said to dwell in a cave near
show throughout the region.
Mungia, a beautifully preserved
Gatwick and Bristol. Brittany
the summit of Anboto, a mighty
At the Necropolis of Argiñeta
16th-century farmhouse called
Ferries has twice-a-week
limestone peak that looms over the
and Chapel of San Ádrian, just
Izenaduba Basoa is said to be
sailings from Portsmouth
Atxondo Valley. This is a popular
outside the walled medieval
the home of Olentzero. It’s been
to Bilbao, with the option
place with mountain bikers and
town of Elorrio, pagan carvings
turned into a kind of theme
to take a car — this saves
hikers, dotted with alpine cottages
still sit side by side with Christian
park for Basque mythology,
you having to rent a car on
and celebrated restaurants in
inscriptions and symbols. The
with costumed characters and
arrival, which is otherwise
villages such as Arrazola. As you
former has a sacred grove of
interactive displays telling the
recommended, as the
explore the trails, cast your eyes
trees enclosing a remarkable
story of many of the region’s most
more rural parts of Biscay
to the top of the mountain, where
collection of sarcophagi, dating
famous characters, from Mari and
are difficult to reach using
Mari and her consort, Sugaar, are
to the seventh century, while the
Olentzero to Basajaun, a hairy wild
public transport.
said to summon storms and preside
latter houses pagan astral carvings
man of the woods, and Tartalo,
easyjet.com vueling.com
over witches’ sabbaths.
beneath a crucifix.
a one-eyed giant. izenaduba.com
brittany-ferries.co.uk
52
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGE: ALAMY
TH RE E MO RE BA SQ UE MY THOLOGY
E AT
KUAL A LUMPUR
Shaped by centuries of migration and culinary fusion, the Malaysian
capital offers an adventurous, multilayered food experience
WORDS: M ARCO FERR ARESE
54
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
fiery curries, fried rice and noodles, piquant
soups, tandoori-roasted meats and a broad
rainbow of spices reflects a long history of
immigration, cross-pollination and a fusion
of influences ranging from the Indonesian
archipelago to Arabia, India and China.
I feel this heavy cultural cargo behind the
simple rice dish I dig into at Warong Old China.
The nasi lemak here is a Peranakan version,
hailing from the unique ethnic and cultural
mix of Straits Chinese and Malay/Indonesian
people found only in Malaysia and Singapore.
The rice’s sweet aroma and glutinous texture
enriched by coconut milk is a perfect base for
this spicy and crunchy concoction — the deepfried chicken thigh that comes with it crackles
satisfyingly as I sink my teeth in.
Things get more creative than a mere
marriage of rice, coconut and chicken, however.
Next, Tee brings out Melaka-style laksa, a tangy
noodle soup tempered by abundant coconut
milk, and a refreshing pomelo salad — a citrusmeets-greens match made in heaven. His buah
keluak, fried rice served on a banana leaf with
a side of chicken breast and a snap-crisp prawn
cracker, is blackened with sambal — Malaysia’s
ubiquitous umami-rich chilli sauce — mixed
with the pulp of the kepayang tree fruit. The
resulting scent, believe it or not, is reminiscent
of European truffles.
“We have much more than nasi lemak,” says
Andrew Wong, one of the owners of Malaysian
Clockwise from top:
Entrance to the temples
at Kuala Lumpur’s Batu
Caves, an important site
for Hindu pilgrims, on
the northern outskirts of
the city; nasi lemak with
chicken curry, coconut
rice and sambal ikan
bilis; one of the colourful
murals found along Kuala
Lumpur’s River of Life
riverside walkway
IMAGES: GETTY; STOCKFOOD; AWL IMAGES
I’m sitting with Leonard Tee at a marble-top
table in the dining hall of Warong Old China.
The Malaysian Chinese restaurant owner has
been in business in Kuala Lumpur for 20 years,
and this Chinatown address is the newest of
his three venues. I ask a question that elicits
a long pause for consideration: what dish best
symbolises multicultural Malaysia? Tee finally
speaks: “The quintessential Malaysian dish is
nasi lemak because there’s a Malay, Chinese
and Indian version.”
He may be right — this concoction of
coconut-flavoured rice, crunchy ikan bilis
(the local version of fried anchovies), raw
cucumber, roasted peanuts and spicy
sambal (chilli sauce) is a convenient choice
to summarise, in a few spoonfuls, one of the
world’s most complex multi-ethnic societies.
In fact, Malaysia’s first astronaut, Dr Sheikh
Muszaphar Shukor, even took nasi lemak with
him to outer space when he took flight in 2007.
Close to KL Sentral, the city’s main
transport hub, Chinatown is the most
accessible place to begin my mission of
mapping the food scene in Malaysia’s
gargantuan, multifaith capital. Fondly
called ‘KL’ by locals, it’s a labyrinth of preindependence colonial buildings, SinoPortuguese shophouses, coils of modern
highways and some of the world’s tallest
towers — an architectural mix as complex as
Malaysian cuisine. This country’s menu of
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
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E AT
A TA S T E O F
Kuala Lumpur
CWZJ CUISINE , KUCHAI LA M A
Here, Cantonese dishes pair with
vintage Chinese teas, all served
by owner Joseph Ang. Try sliced
barbecue pork cheek, fresh-fromthe-tank seafood or deep-fried
spring chicken with a side of
Sichuan-style braised eggplant,
served sizzling inside a rock pot.
RM350 (£60) for three courses,
including beer. 8, Jalan Kuchai Maju
10, (11/116B), Kuchai Entrepreneurs
Park, Jalan Kuchai Lama
S I N G H C H A PAT I H O U S E ,
BRICKFIELDS
Just behind KL Sentral, in the heart
of Little India, this simple Punjabi
outfit is a favourite for its buttery,
authentic dals, tandoori-grilled
meats, crisp naan bread and
oven rotis, which are particularly
popular with the local Indian and
South Asian communities. Try the
thick and creamy dal makhani to
Asam pedas at Dusun is
reevaluate the power of slow-
made with salmon rather
simmered lentils. RM50 (£10) for
than typical stingray
three courses; no alcohol. facebook.
com/singhchapatibrickfields
B I JA N , B U K I T B I N TA N G
This house tucked at one end of
Changkat Bukit Bintang, the city’s
prime nightlife strip, serves a world
of masterfully executed Malay
dishes. For 20 years, Chinese owner
Bijan has served a menu of panMalaysian food in a cosy, homely
environment. Try melt-in-themouth beef opor stew, prawns with
caramelised coconut and wild fern,
or cooked in tempoyak (fermented
durian sambal). RM350 (£50) for
three courses, including wine.
bijanrestaurant.com
T H E C U R I O U S I T Y I RO N R I V E R ,
PUDU
Part cocktail bar, part artists’ and
musicians’ hangout, this hidden
joint in a shophouse has a lively arts
space and garden. And the menu
is above the usual bar food. The
Malaysia Boleh pizza is a unique
fusion of seafood, sambal and petai
IMAGE: KIT YENG CHAN
(local ‘stink beans’), while the lamb
shanks, pork ribs and spiced pork
belly are on a par with those served
at some of KL’s best steakhouses.
RM350 (£50) for three courses,
including cocktails. facebook.com/
thecuriousityironriver
heritage restaurant Open House. “Malay
cuisine is so complex. For example, some of
its ingredients, like wild herbs, are foraged
from the forest, and then there’s the time it
takes to prepare and process them into dishes.
There’s so much work behind it that it becomes
a high-dining experience.” Open House will
soon relaunch in a new form and location in
Jalan Stonor, close to the city’s iconic 1,483ft
Petronas Towers. It will host a dedicated
ulam herb garden curated by Malaysia’s UKM
university and Gombak’s Jungle School — a
group that empowers some of the Malaysian
Peninsula’s oldest Indigenous people.
Wong is on a quest to rediscover Malay
food via recipes he obtained from the Jabatan
Warisan Negara (National Heritage Board)
and first-hand knowledge sourced by his chefs
from their villages across the country. We
meet at his Michelin-listed second restaurant,
Dusun, which opened in 2022 on the corner of
the Bangsar Shopping Centre, in one of KL’s
central dining and entertainment districts.
The starter plate of crunchy keropok (deepfried crackers) with seven different sambals
is top-notch. I find a particular soft spot for
tempoyak, a gooey, creamy variety of the
condiment made from fermented durian fruit,
which feels like fizzy, tropical butter on my
tongue. It perfectly introduces a menu tailored
to emphasise the region’s unique flavours. The
asam pedas, for example, is made with salmon
rather than frequently used stingray because
Wong believes “it’s a more suitable fish to
absorb the curry’s tangy, sweet-sour taste”.
The more I eat, the more I realise that
experimenting with Malaysian traditions is the
core value of KL’s contemporary gastronomic
identity. At Lucky Bo, another noteworthy
Bangsar restaurant, I meet owner Edward
Soo, who describes his establishment as a
‘Malaysian steakhouse’. Soo has chosen to
use prime Australian tomahawk rib-eye beef
steak but in dishes adapted for local tastes.
“It kind of happened by chance and because
of customer feedback,” says Soo. He used the
fattier parts to cook char kway teow — a muchloved local flat rice noodle dish — and found
a pefect combination. “Now I have people
coming in and asking just for that, but I’m
afraid it only comes with the whole steak.”
I find further inventive dishes back in
Chinatown, where restaurateur Cynthia
Rodrigo offers plant-based dishes at two of the
city’s hippest vegan venues, the Hungry Tapir
and LaGula, which she opened with her son
and daughter, Tristan and Makissa Smeeton.
Here, I munch on spicy tempeh fingers,
vegan tortilla and a plate of satay made with
marinated hedgehog mushrooms — the latter
being a nice change from the usual Malaysian
meat skewers.
Gastronomic innovation isn’t only in
taking place in the centre of KL, however.
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
57
E AT
Right: The distinctive twin Petronas
Towers crown Kuala Lumpur’s skyline
Below: Musang King is a premium
durian, usually sold at twice the price
of other varieties of the infamously
pungent fruit
FIVE FOOD FINDS
DURIAN
The ‘king of fruits’ may smell
revolting to the unaccustomed, but
it’s a must-try ingredient found in
the most piquant local dishes as
NOODLES
KL’s noodle variety is legion, from
thick pan mee in chicken broth
to sizzling Indian mamak-style
mee goreng (stir-fried noodles)
sprinkled with lime.
SA MBAL
Originally from Indonesia, this
fiery mix of chili, shrimp paste,
garlic, ginger, shallot, spring onion,
palm sugar and lime juice is the
national condiment, and comes
in myriad varieties.
SPICES
From curries to buah keluak fried
rice, Malaysian food is as varied as
the spices used to flavour it, such as
turmeric and green cardamom.
NASI LEM AK
A traditional breakfast staple of
coconut rice garnished with raw
cucumber, fried anchovies, sambal
and roasted peanuts.
58
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
The sprawling suburbs also host a multitude of
offbeat culinary venues. In fact, when Michelin
published its first guide to Kuala Lumpur
and Penang in late 2022, its 97 choices, most
of which were central and more upmarket,
spurred much criticism from locals who felt
their neighbourhoods offered the best eats.
SS15, in the southwestern township
of Subang Jaya, is among the city’s most
accessible under-the-radar food areas, just a
half-hour train ride from Chinatown’s Pasar
Seni. The high-rises thin out the further the
train gets from the centre, and the first thing
I spot when I get off at the station is a food
court in a little strip mall. It’s there I find Big
Family Restaurant. Bustling with diners, the
restaurant’s lunch crowd slurp a vast range of
noodle dishes that includes flat and wide pan
mee, Ipoh chee cheong fun rice noodle rolls in
curry or mushroom sauce and tangy asam
laksa, a classic noodle soup.
A block away is locally loved Indian
restaurant Rojak SS15. Despite the name (rojak
is a spicy fruit salad), the place is known for
pasembur (a salad of cucumber, potatoes,
beancurd and seafood). I also order a freshly
fried vadai, a quintessential South Asian
savoury spiced fritter, which leaves hot oil
on my fingers. This is followed by a cooling
dessert of ais kacang (shaved ice, syrup and ice
cream), and cendol (green jelly with coconut
milk and palm sugar syrup).
As I reach the middle of SS15’s grid of streets,
I stumble upon the fresh produce market, and
there, I see it again. Sitting behind the glass
front of a stall, metallic trays are filled with
ingredients that make up the dish that binds a
nation — nasi lemak. It’s being served at Gerai
Opah, a simple shop in a corner of the market.
I order, sit at a wooden table and dig in. The
sambal’s so spicy it makes my eyes and nose
run, but I can’t stop eating the rice, crackling
with anchovies and peanuts.
The Malay owner, Raba’adiah Binti Md
Hasan, says the secret to her fiery sauce is to
simmer it for four hours, using dried chilies
instead of paste. On most days, she starts
work at 4am so her special sauce is ready by
breakfast. Regardless of how high- or low-brow
the food establishment, the secret of KL’s
culinary success becomes apparent as I down
the last spoonful through blurry eyes. “It’s all
about hard work,” says Raba’adiah, “But when
I see my customers satisfied after a meal, it’s
the greatest satisfaction.”
HOW TO DO IT
Malaysia Airlines flies non-stop between Heathrow
and Kuala Lumpur. malaysiaairlines.com
Four Points Hotel by Sheraton, in Chinatown, has
doubles from £100, B&B. Set in the gardens behind
the Petronas Twin Towers, Traders Hotel is another
central option, where doubles cost from £64, B&B.
malaysia.travel
IMAGES: GETTY
well as sweets and desserts.
THE KYRGYZ
REPUBLIC
photo: Gladkov Nikolai
discoverkyrgyzstan.org
S LE E P
Bollywood centre, commercial capital and all-round good-time city,
Mumbai has charisma by the bucketload. New hotels are appearing apace,
while older ones are constantly upping their game. Such is the city’s
geography, stretching for more than 25 miles down India’s west coast, that
it’s crucial to choose your area carefully. Colaba, on the southern tip, is a
popular spot, with abundant sightseeing and restaurants. Further north,
Bandra is packed with cool bars, while Juhu’s selling point is its three-mile
stretch of golden sand. Hotels on the beach often come with rooftop pools,
ideal for watching the sun set over the Arabian Sea.
W O R D S : C H A R L O T T E W I G R A M - E VA N S
60
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: GETTY; KOUMUDI CHOUHAN
MUMBAI
Best for boho brilliance
£ A B O D E B OM BAY
One of the city’s few boutique hotels, Abode
Bombay has oodles of bohemian charm. Every
corner of this heritage property in downtown
Colaba has been curated with flair, from art
deco floor tiles and restored vintage furniture
to evocative photography capturing local
life. Abode takes its social responsibilities
seriously, too. The hotel has close ties with
Victoria Memorial School for the Blind, and
all therapists at the small spa are visually
impaired, while car services are provided solely
by vulnerable women — often single mothers
— for whom driving offers financial freedom.
Such has been Abode Bombay’s success that
brother-and-sister owners Abedin Sham and
Jumana Lokhandwala recently bought another
floor of the building, opening four brand-new
suites this spring — all with just as much soul
as the rest of the property.
R O O M S : From INR 8,500 (£82), B&B.
abodeboutiquehotels.com
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
61
SLEEP
Best for all-out luxury
£ £ T H E O B E RO I
Step into The Oberoi’s marble-clad lobby
and prepare to be momentarily stunned. The
atrium rises for 21 floors, the ceiling seemingly
stretching into infinity, while the soft smell
of lilies fills the air and the smooth tones of a
jazz pianist seem to guide you straight to one
of the two bars. For some of the best views in
the city, opt for Eau Bar’s terrace, overlooking
the Arabian Sea, and order the signature
cocktail, marine drive. Made with turmeric
gin and orange bitters, it’s the deep-red hue of
an Indian sunset. After drinks, you may want
to explore more of Nariman Point — but in a
place as beautiful as The Oberoi, you also may
not. In the hotel’s 287 rooms, floor-to-ceiling
windows, vast bathtubs and plump pillows
combine to make the ideal night in.
R O O M S : From INR 13,950 (£135), B&B.
oberoihotels.com
Best for opulence
£ £ £ T H E TA J M A H A L PA L AC E
No list of Mumbai’s best hotels would be
complete without The Taj Mahal Palace.
Opened in 1903, this resplendent building has
lost none of its cachet, combining baroque
architecture with regal interiors and views over
the century-old Gateway of India monument.
The lobby welcomes a glittering parade of wellto-do travellers, as do the four restaurants. The
high tea, served in the Sea Lounge, is sublime;
the pool is sun-drenched and surrounded by
tropical foliage; and the rooms are decked out
in dark wood, heavy drapes and four-poster
beds. Don’t miss the heritage tours for guests,
during which staff will tell tales of the hotel’s
history and explain the poignant memorial
marking the 2008 terrorist attack.
R O O M S : From INR 28,000 (£272), B&B.
tajhotels.com
The Dutch Suite at The Taj Mahal Palace
Clockwise from above: View from one of two
presidential suites at The Oberoi; The Westin
Mumbai Powai Lake’s staircase overlooks the
water; guests can dine outside at Aquarius,
The Taj Mahal Palace’s al fresco restaurant
Best for lakeside serenity
Set on the serene shores of Powai Lake, this
Marriott Bonvoy hotel, opened in 2022, feels
worlds away from the city’s hectic heart,
14 miles to the south. Sit down to an elaborate
breakfast buffet beside its still waters and
watch spot-billed ducks paddle past, before
moving poolside to soak up a bit of sun. Inside,
the pared-back decor includes sandy-coloured
walls and Scandinavian-style furnishings.
Make sure to visit the adjacent Sanjay Gandhi
National Park, situated within the boundaries
of Mumbai. The Kanheri caves here, carved by
Buddhist monks more than 2,000 years ago,
are mesmerising, as is the wildlife: the area has
the highest documented density of leopards
in the world, as well as monkeys galore, from
macaques to langurs.
R O O M S : INR 12,980 (£126), B&B. marriott.co.uk
62
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: THE TAJ MAHAL PALACE;
OBEROI HOTELS & RESORTS
£ £ T H E W E S T I N MUM BA I
P OWA I L A K E
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SLEEP
Best for socialites
£ £ £ SOHO HOUSE
IMAGE: SOHO HOUSE
The bar is in full swing every evening at Mumbai’s Soho
House. Here in Juhu, a Bollywood stronghold, the crowds
tend to be beautiful, famous and up for fun. Join them
for dinner at Cecconi’s, overlooking Juhu Beach, before
going upstairs and to the roof terrace for live music, potent
cocktails and people-watching. Rooms feature dark wood
floors, vintage decor and eclectic artwork. The rooftop pool,
meanwhile, is tastefully tiled in Rajasthani florals.
R O O M S : INR 26,500 (£257), room only. If you’re not a Soho
House member, a 12-month membership will be added to
your booking for INR 10,000 (£97). sohohouse.com
Best for a green oasis
Best for individual charm
£ £ £ THE LEEL A
£ £ FERREIR A HOUSE
Best for bargain-hunters
£ B LO OM H OT E L WO R L I
Surrounded by 11 acres of gardens, yet within easy
More museum than hotel, this homestay gives a
Lemon-yellow, reasonably priced and ultra-modern
reach of the international airport, this glamorous
fascinating glimpse into local history. Curios fill every
— these are the trademarks of the Bloom brand. For
hotel is great for those making a quick stop in
nook: think crystalware, family photographs, ancient
a prime central location, the Bloom Hotel Worli is a
Mumbai and who want to avoid the guaranteed traffic
maps and mysterious teak chests. Owner James
bargain. Its compact rooms are equipped with crisp
linens, rain showers and high-speed wi-fi (still a rarity in
into the city centre. The hotel’s dining options are
Ferreira is just as fantastic as his furnishings. A fashion
excellent: alongside the six restaurants, guests can
designer and lover of all things Mumbai, he grew up
much of Mumbai). There’s also a good restaurant with
book a bespoke tasting menu with wine pairings, or
here and is a fountain of knowledge when it comes to
international dishes. The Worli district is home to some
a traditional Indian cookery class with the head chef.
sightseeing. Pick his brains over a G&T before heading
of the city’s top attractions, including Haji Ali Dargah
The spa is a standout feature, complete with a small
out onto the cobbled streets of Khotachiwadi, one of
Mosque and the Nehru Science Centre.
hammam and a hair salon for a post-soak blow dry.
the oldest parts of the city.
R O O M S : From INR 6,664 (£65), room only.
R O O M S : INR 22,000 (£213), B&B. theleela.com
R O O M S : From £130, B&B. T: 00 91 98200 46273
staybloom.com
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
65
SLEEP
Best for art-lovers
Best for poolside views
In 2009, more than 150 local artists teamed up
to create India’s first art hotel. Every one of Le
Sutra’s 16 rooms has been curated according to
Indian mythology. The first floor symbolises
Sattva, a sense of peace and harmony. Tones
are muted, all cool whites and earthen
browns, with beautifully carved sculptures
and minimalist artwork. The second floor,
meanwhile, depicts Rajas, the quality of
ambition and action, with deep reds and golds.
The terraced restaurant, Out of the Blue, is
relaxed and reasonably priced. Head there
at happy hour for its two-for-one beers,
with Indo-Chinese sides of sesame chicken,
honeyed prawns and lemongrass
chicken skewers — great if you’re craving a
break from traditional Indian cuisine.
R O O M S : INR 9,939 (£96), B&B. lesutra.in
This slick new Hyatt branch opened in 2022
with a bachelor-pad aesthetic that includes red
walls, black marble and dim lighting. Close to
Juhu Beach in northwest Mumbai, rooms are
well appointed and stylish, while staff cut the
perfect line between attentive and discreet.
The hotel’s Sesame restaurant covers all bases
from tandoor chicken to sushi. The star of the
show is undoubtedly the roof terrace: look one
way from the pool and its canopied day beds,
and the cityscape sprawls as far as the eye can
see; in the other direction, views stretch across
Juhu Beach. Head up early in the morning to
witness a dazzling display of dragon flies, as
hundreds flap lazily above the palm trees.
R O O M S : From INR 30,000 (£290), room only.
hyatt.com
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£ £ £ H YAT T C E N T R I C
J U H U MUM BA I
From left: The Maya
room at Le Sutra; the
contemporary Sesame
restaurant at the Hyatt
Centric Juhu Mumbai
IMAGES: LE SUTRA; MOHSIN TAHA
£ LE SUTR A
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Driven by a unique creative energy, New York is a city that delivers endless
one-of-a-kind- experiences — whether you want to tour the art studios of
Harlem, drink savoury cocktails in a Chinatown bar, stargaze from the
High Line or camp on an island overlooking Manhattan
P H O T O G R A P H S : M AT T D U T I L E
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69
N E W YO R K
Discover the story of the city
through its food
New York’s food scene has been shaped by waves of immigration, meaning you can learn the
history of its people by eating your way around the city. Words: David Farley
There may be no other city in the world whose history can
be told through its food as plainly as New York’s can. Its
food landscape can be peeled back to reveal successive
waves of immigrants, each adjusting their national cuisine
to fit their new home.
If you grew up watching New York on screen, you’ll think
the one obligatory food option is a hot dog from a street
cart. Known locally as a ‘dirty water dog’, because the
frankfurters wade in warm water until they’re plopped in a
bun and slathered with mustard, they’re the original New
York street food. Their genesis is murky but it’s believed
the Germans arrived in the 1840s, tubular meat in hand,
and set up on corners selling frankfurters. The best known
vendor is Nathan’s Famous, which has been slinging
wieners in Coney Island since 1916, and is renowned for its
Fourth of July hot-dog eating contest. Nathan’s also has a
cart on the west side of Central Park. nathansfamous.com
The bagel found its way to American shores with the
Polish Jews who immigrated to New York in the mid-19th
century. For decades, the chewy baked ring was known
only in European Jewish enclaves in the city. It found a
wider audience when, in 1909, Russ & Daughters fired
up its bagel-boiling vats on the Lower East Side, the first
business in the US to have ‘and daughters’ instead of ‘and
sons’ in the title. The Russ family still runs the same spot,
the narrow interior lined with glass counters and the
exterior displaying the original neon sign. Ever popular
is the bagel with cream cheese and lox (salt-cured salmon
fillet). russanddaughters.com
Not long after the bagel landed in New York, another
food icon emerged, thanks to Lithuanian-born butcher
Sussman Volk. He used to let a Romanian immigrant store
his meat in his shop freezer; as a thank you, the Romanian
gave Volk his recipe for smoked pastrami (brined and
spiced meat, now usually beef brisket). In 1888, Volk began
selling the flavourful, tender meat at his deli in the Lower
East Side. It proved so popular that a year later, Polish
brothers Morris and Hyman Iceland, having mysteriously
attained the technique for making the smoked meat,
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opened Katz’s Delicatessen a few blocks away. Its smoked
pastrami on rye bread was a hit from day one, and the deli
still serves the best version on the planet: monstrously big
and unctuously tender. Since 1989, Katz has been famous
for another reason, too: look for the placard hanging above
the table at which Meg Ryan loudly fakes an orgasm in the
film When Harry Met Sally. katzsdelicatessen.com
About the same time that Katz’s started churning out
pastrami, Keens Steakhouse opened its doors a few
blocks north, importing the tradition of the chophouse
(restaurants serving grilled meat) from London. Keens’
regular patrons would come to feast on medium-rare
steak and well-marbled mutton chops, and to smoke their
churchwarden pipes. These were stored at the restaurant,
a tradition that dates back to 17th-century England. Today,
there are around 50,000 pipes hanging from the ceiling of
the dimly lit, deeply atmospheric restaurant. keens.com
As the steakhouse began to etch itself into the culinary
culture of New York, so did another staple of the city’s diet.
Nearly four million southern Italians checked in through
the immigration centre on Ellis Island in the late-19th
century, and they brought pizza with them. In 1905,
Gennaro Lombardi started making and selling pizza at his
grocery shop in Little Italy, creating the first stand-alone
pizza restaurant in the US. Lombardi’s dish was defined
by its crispy bottom — thanks to the use of coal-burning
ovens, which became a hallmark of New York-style pizza.
A busy, fully-fledged pizzeria, with gingham-topped tables
and family photos on the walls, Lombardi’s still sells coalfired pizza in that same tradition. firstpizza.com
Not a city to rest on its laurels, New York continues
to push culinary boundaries. One of the world’s most
celebrated restaurants, Eleven Madison Park, raised
eyebrows when Swiss-born chef/owner Daniel Humm
announced in May 2021 that it was going totally vegan.
The elegant art deco restaurant, serving multi-course plantbased extravaganzas, has since retained its three Michelin
stars, proving once again that New York is a city where
innovation will always thrive. elevenmadisonpark.com
Clockwise from top:
Eleven Madison Park,
which became vegan
in 2021 and still holds
three Michelin stars;
slicing salmon at Russ &
Daughters; a slab of wellseasoned meat at Keens
Steakhouse; the exterior
of Russ & Daughters
Previous pages,
clockwise from top
left: Keens Steakhouse;
basketball at The Cage;
The Gatehouses at King’s
County Distillery; the
view from Edge
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71
Edge opened in 2020 and is a huge
cantilevered viewing deck that
perches 1,100ft above Manhattan
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N E W YO R K
Find an alternative view
New York is a city famous for its iconic viewpoints — from the Empire State Building to
Brooklyn Bridge. Here’s where to find different, less-crowded angles. Words: Amanda Canning
Edge, Hudson Yards
Staten Island Ferry
The standard experience at Edge is thrilling enough
for most visitors — jutting out from the 100th floor of
30 Hudson Yards, the open-air, cantilevered ‘sky deck’
gives an outlook that cannot be experienced at the city’s
other towers, hemmed in, as they are, by other buildings.
At 1,100ft, it’s also the highest outdoor observation deck
in the western hemisphere. The skyscrapers of Lower
Manhattan rise to the south, One World Trade Center
among them; all of New Jersey spreads out to the west; and,
at your feet, a glass window in the floating platform gives
an unadulterated sightline straight down to the street.
If you prefer your view delivered with an extra dose of
adrenaline, book a place on the City Climb, several stories
above. After being helped into a harness, run through a
reassuringly high number of safety checks and clipped
to a rail that runs round the building, you step out on to
an open platform. Buffeted by the wind, and with the
knowledge that you are at that moment the highest person
taking the air in New York, you then scale metal steps
running up one side of the tower, pausing to take in the
surreal sight of the city laid out in miniature below. At the
top, there’s one final challenge: to lean out over the edge,
on a small terrace 1,200ft above ground, supported by a
harness and the encouraging shouts of fellow climbers.
General admission $36 (£28). City Climb $185 (£147).
edgenyc.com
Short of booking a tour of the Statue of Liberty, the best
way to get up close to the national monument is to catch
the Staten Island Ferry. Even better, it’s entirely free to
ride. Puttering off from Battery Park at the southern tip of
Manhattan, the distinctive orange boat takes 25 minutes
to cross the harbour, passing Ellis Island and the famous
statue en route. While unfazed commuters sit inside on
wooden benches and seagulls wheel overhead, excited
tourists scurry between viewpoints on the top deck
— choosing between the high rises of the Financial
District, the skylines of New Jersey and Brooklyn or the
great lady herself. Free. siferry.com
Garden at the Met
Red Hook
Most visitors to the Metropolitan Museum of Art come to
stare at its extraordinary collections, making a beeline for
the latest blockbuster exhibition on creative giants such as
Van Gogh or Karl Lagerfeld. Just as absorbing, though, are
the views from the rooftop Cantor Garden, accessed via a
lift near a display of Fabergé eggs on the first floor. Here,
the crowds thin; those who make it up feel like they’ve
made their own special discovery. Most bypass the al fresco
bar and temporary art installations and head straight for
the garden’s neatly clipped box hedging, over which lie
views of Central Park and the buildings of the Lower West
Side. $30 (£24). metmuseum.org
If you’ve seen New York from every possible angle, try
Red Hook. At the southern edge of Brooklyn, where
the borough fronts the Upper New York Bay, this is a
neighbourhood lifting itself out of several decades of
decay. Old warehouses and industrial buildings are
being repurposed as art galleries, barbecue restaurants
and whisky distilleries. A walk round the bay reveals
views of the Statue of Liberty and the docks — made all
the better with a drink from one of the borough’s new
tenants. Order an IPA at the picnic tables of Strong Rope
brewery or a riesling on the pier outside Red Hook Winery.
strongropebrewery.com redhookwinery.com
Pier 57
Cut off from the pretty west Manhattan neighbourhoods
of Chelsea and Greenwich by a multilane state highway,
the piers lining the Hudson River might seem like an
unpromising location for a visit. The crossing is worth the
effort, however. A food market occupies part of the ground
floor of the Pier 57 building, so grab a Harlem-brewed
beer and some empanadas on your way through. On the
top floor, you’ll find a two-acre rooftop park — and plenty
of benches on which to sit and enjoy your takeaway with
views of Little Island, Thomas Heatherwick’s artificial
island park and the rapidly rising skyscrapers of Hudson
Yard. Free. pier57nyc.com
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N E W YO R K
Stay in a storied hotel
Follow in the slipper-wearing footsteps of notable guests from presidents to beatniks
by checking into one of New York’s historic hotels. Words: Amanda Canning & Zoey Goto
Wythe Hotel, North Williamsburg
Hotel Chelsea, Chelsea
This is the new epicentre of New York cool, in what was
once the city’s industrial heartland. The building that
houses the Wythe started life as a barrel-makers in 1897,
became a munitions factory in the Second World War
and then a company that made fabric for NASA. The
hotel celebrates that heritage with heavy wooden beams,
exposed brickwork and concrete floors in the 70 guest
rooms, while ceiling tracks that were used to lift heavy
objects are still visible in the double-height lobby. There
are elements that a barrel-maker returning from the 19th
century would be harder pressed to recognise. Chief among
them are the in-room bars showcasing the best local spirits,
and the refined brasserie dishes produced at the handsome
ground-floor restaurant Le Crocodile.
Not staying? Order small plates and cocktails at rooftop
Bar Blondeau. From $354 (£279), room only. wythehotel.com
The spirit of bohemia hangs heavy at Hotel Chelsea.
The former commune/hotel has long attracted poets,
punks and painters, with everyone from beatnik writer
Jack Kerouac to Bob Dylan calling the Victorian gothic
landmark home over the years. Following a decade-long
refurbishment, it’s now a chic 158-room hotel complete
with a Parisian-style bistro. Ghosts of its previous life
remain in the handful of original tenants who reside on
the first floor. They starred in Martin Scorsese’s Dreaming
Walls, a documentary about their determination to stay put
despite the renovation. Loiter in the lobby and you might
catch them sharing tales of the time they met Andy Warhol
or of avant-garde dance shows held in the marble stairwell.
Not staying? Have a Spanish meal in El Quijote. From $325
(£253), room only. hotelchelsea.com
The Lowell, Upper East Side
If one-time guests F Scott Fitzgerald and Dorothy Parker
were to take rooms at the Lowell today, they’d undoubtedly
find everything to their liking. For close to 100 years, this
cocoon of discrete luxury is where the Upper East Side
has come to exhale. Elderly gentlemen with pomaded hair
nurse bourbons in the panelled bar while ladies in Chanel
make for the guest lounge, chihuahuas in tow. And so it
ever was. The 78 elegant suites and French restaurant
Majorelle are, however, newly remodelled thanks to
designer Michael S Smith, who decorated the White House
when Barack Obama was in residence. Despite the flawless
attention to detail — not a petal out of place in the floral
displays, not a wrinkle in the upholstery — there’s no
formality here. Staff treat guests like treasured friends,
whether you’re J Lo checking in with an entourage or
you’ve just flown economy from Heathrow.
Not staying? Have a white negroni in Jacques Bar.
From $1,337 (£1,053), B&B. lowellhotel.com
Hotel Edison, Midtown
Clockwise from top left:
A suite at the nautical
Maritime Hotel; one
of the bathrooms at
bohemian Hotel Chelsea;
the reception at Wythe
Hotel, a former factory;
a recently remodelled
bedroom at The Lowell
Just steps from the neon symphony of Times Square, this
grand dame has been welcoming guests since 1931 — when
the lights were switched on by legendary inventor Thomas
Edison, no less. Much of the art deco charm has been
preserved, including a gilded lobby where scenes from
The Godfather were shot. The guest rooms, stretching over
22 floors and including Jazz Age flourishes, offer ringside
views of the street drama below. As night falls, take a
nightcap at the ground-floor Rum House, a louche piano
bar that retains all the atmosphere of 1930s New York.
Not staying? Drop in for live jazz and daiquiris at The Rum
House. From $248 (£192), room only. edisonhotelnyc.com
The Maritime, Chelsea
If the producers of Mad Men ever decide to reboot the series
on a cruise liner, they’d have a ready made set in the suave,
retro Maritime. Designed by modernist architect Albert
Ledner in the 1960s as the headquarters of the National
Maritime Union, the building is in the former port district,
with cargo ships and ocean liners once docking a short
stroll away. The hotel stays true to his original vision,
with a frieze that runs the length of the lobby, each panel
showing a scene from a global port, such as Hong Kong to
Istanbul. Occupying the original offices and sailors’ dorms,
the 126 rooms have a mid-century ship’s cabin vibe, with
built-in beds with teak surrounds, a nautical colour and
enormous porthole windows — with views of the Hudson,
the river that once brought the world to New York.
Not staying? Admire the frieze before dining at Catch Steak
restaurant. From $265 (£209), B&B. themaritimehotel.com
The Carlyle, a Rosewood Hotel, Upper East Side
At one point, this beaux-arts beauty became known
as the ‘New York White House’ after John F Kennedy
unpacked his monogrammed suitcases in one of its rooms,
apparently sneaking Marilyn Monroe through the kitchens
for clandestine meetings. He was in good company: the
classy Upper East Side institution has been attracting
presidents, royalty and movie stars since its revolving
doors started to spin in 1930. Many of the 190 graceful,
stylish rooms, some featuring baby grand pianos, offer
views of Central Park and Manhattan’s skyline. Meanwhile,
a new generation has discovered the old-school charm
of mural-lined, softly lit Bemelmans Bar, enjoying dirty
martinis shaken by mixologists in crisp red jackets
Not staying? Take afternoon tea in the Gallery restaurant.
From $895 (£698), room only. rosewoodhotels.com
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Camp on an island
overlooking Manhattan
Just a short ferry ride from Lower Manhattan lies a car-free island that offers a slice
of rural escapism in full view of the city. Words: Amanda Canning
The passengers who spill off the boat at Governors Island
ferry terminal are already in holiday mode. In the eight
minutes it’s taken to make the crossing from Manhattan,
any daily preoccupations have been cast off. Sunglasses on,
day bags slung over shoulders, they consult the map on the
information board and then go their separate ways.
Some make straight for the Mexican restaurant just 50ft
away, aiming to do nothing but sit in the sunshine with
cold beers and tacos. Others rent bright-red bikes, setting
off on a leisurely circumnavigation of the car-free island,
their baskets full of picnic supplies. A few pad up to QY
NC Spa, ready to get into white dressing gowns and slowly
rotate through its relaxation rooms, saunas and pools.
The spa’s location, in a former army barracks, gives a
clue to the island’s former life. The 172-acre site was used
as a US military base for over 200 years and much remains
from that time. There are canary-yellow cottages, once
used by soldiers and their families; a grand colonnaded
Admiral’s House, befitting its commanding officer; and a
clapboard chapel and red-brick theatre that served all.
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A 2003 ban against permanent residency on Governors
Island, part of which is a National Monument, means that
many of the buildings stand empty and dilapidated. Their
future is, however, in safe hands. Run by a trust whose
focus is on public art projects, sustainability and low-key
hospitality, the island has been given a fresh lease of life in
recent years. Among its new tenants are the Billion Oyster
Project, which aims to restore the oyster reefs around New
York Harbor, and Circular Economy Manufacturing, which
uses solar power to turn the city’s plastic waste into new
products such as planters and lighting.
One of the first arrivals was Collective Retreats. On a
former car park on the western edge of the island sits a
collection of glamping accommodation, from canvas safari
tents with shared bathrooms to an extraordinary, woodframed villa with hanging fireplace and walk-in shower.
No matter which option guests choose, they’ll likely spend
most of their time on the outdoor decks, unable to quite
break away from the views of the Manhattan skyline to one
side and the Statue of Liberty to the other.
Clockwise from top:
The restaurant at
Collective Retreats
looks over the camp’s
central lawn; the site
sits just a mile from
Manhattan; having
dinner within view
of the Statue of
Liberty; whole grilled
branzino, or sea bass
N E W YO R K
It’s hard to process that the Collective Retreats site is less
than a mile from the most densely populated patch of land
in the entire US. The occasional toot from the Staten Island
Ferry or calls from barn swallows, warblers and herring
gulls provide the soundtrack here. The breeze carries the
scent of salt, not fumes. And the main distractions are a
game of baseball or giant Jenga on the clover-pocked lawn.
Come nightfall, when the day visitors have taken the last
ferry home and the only people left on the island are those
staying at Collective Retreats, the sense of quiet seclusion
deepens. General manager Paige Carter, in black jeans and
a baseball cap, has worked here for over a year and is still
in a state of palpable wonder. “It’s crazy we’re only a few
minutes from the city,” she says, gazing over the water as
the sky turns pink and amber in the setting sun. “It feels
like you shouldn’t be allowed to be here.”
Paige explains that 70% of people who stay are New
Yorkers, many returning year after year for an easy-toaccess hit of escapism. “They come for the night and
commute into the city first thing,” she says. And while
the setting that draws them is rustic, the service is not. A
sunset cocktail hour brings guests together to chat and
share stories, while dinner, served from an open kitchen on
a decked terrace, might include compressed watermelon
salad or grilled langoustine fettuccine.
Diners continually pause to take in the showboating
spectacle around them, the skyscrapers of Manhattan
ablaze with lights and Lady Liberty’s torch glowing
steadily in the thickening darkness. But it’s the simple
pleasures that win out at night here: s’mores cooked on
the campfire; fireflies flickering their amorous intentions
in the long grass; and a universe of stars slowly revealing
itself above. Safari tent from $203 (£163).
collectiveretreats.com govisland.com
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N E W YO R K
Get sober in the city
In an ironic twist, 90 years after the restrictions of prohibition lifted in New York, temperance
has never been cooler in The Big Apple. Here’s how to zero-proof your stay. Words: Zoey Goto
Behind every great American dive bar, there’s a rock-steady
formula. It goes something like this: walk through the door
and a bartender stands poised to lend an ear, sliding drinks
across the gnarly bar with easy intimacy. Overhead, a
grunge playlist crackles through the speakers. And towards
the back of the room, scratched tables and worn velvet
seats provide shadowy nooks for getting up to no good.
Hekate Cafe & Elixir Lounge appears to tick all of these
boxes, but there’s something decidedly off-beat about this
buzzy East Village hangout. Perhaps it’s the cosmic tarot
card reading happening in the window, or the greeting
as I step in. “Have you been here before?” the long-haired
mixologist enquires, handing me a menu. “We’re a 100%
alcohol-free establishment,” he adds, in a tone that
suggests the throw down of a challenge.
Hekate is part of a growing sobriety scene in New York.
No longer the exclusive realm of committed tea-totallers,
a surge of interest from the sober-curious and drinkers
keen to dip their toes into the hangover-free waters of
moderation has pushed abstention into the mainstream
here, and a multiverse of sober socialising exists to serve
them. It’s possible to greet the sunrise at a Daybreaker
sober morning rave, attend a dry drag brunch courtesy of
Third Place Bar, pick up a Phony Negroni at booze-free
bottle shop Boisson, and join the zero-proof party at a popup event organised by Absence of Proof.
Social media has helped connect a new generation of
temperance crusaders, I learn the next morning when I
meet Rachel Hechtman in Central Park. Having called
time on her own drinking, Rachel organises mocktail
events across New York State, using her online platform
to glamorise sobriety “in the way I once glamorised my
drinking”, she tells me. “Once upon a time, every photo of
me had a martini glass in it.”
She launched her new career in Central Park, organising
sober walks during lockdowns, she says, as we walk past a
carousel of dog walkers and joggers. Pausing on an ornate
iron bridge, we gaze back at the city’s skinny skyscrapers
through a curtain of foliage. Forget Sex and the City’s Carrie
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Bradshaw sipping a cosmopolitan, once as synonymous
with New York as the Statue of Liberty. Nowadays, it’s all
about being sober in the city, Rachel explains. “Trends
start here and ripple outwards,” she says.
I leave the park and make my way over to Brooklyn.
When I finally locate Brooklyn Brewery, a warehouse
reimagined as a microbrewery and tap room, I feel like
I’ve arrived at hipster central. A disco ball swirls and pop
art murals line the walls of the bar, with young clientele
squeezing thigh-to-thigh on communal benches to take
thirsty gulps of craft beer. Since 2019, the brewery has
introduced three sans-alcohol beers, wrapped in punchy
graphic labels. They’ve gone down a storm, making up 10%
of the company’s US sales. I take a sip of their hoppy lager,
an aromatic brew with subtle hints of grapefruit and pine.
It tastes… well, just like a regular beer. Which is perhaps
unsurprising, given it’s created in the same way as other
brews, with the addition of a fermentation method in
which the alcohol is extracted.
For my final stop I hop on a train to New York State’s
Long Island, past wooden fish shacks and Great Gatsbystyle mansions. Set in the heart of the Hamptons, familyrun Wölffer Estate Vineyard has been elevating the world
of de-alcoholised wines since 1996, when they launched
the first of three lines of sophisticated grape juice. I join
co-owner Joey Wölffer on the shaded deck. We clink a flute
of sparkling blush as she tells me that inclusivity was the
driving force behind the decision to introduce on-thewagon wine. “Come and visit on a Friday night and it’s like
a mini festival here,” she says. “Everyone is having a good
time with a delicious drink in their hand, regardless of if
they drink alcohol or not.”
Perhaps it’s the views of rolling vineyards that stretch
towards the Atlantic horizon, or the placebo effect of
quaffing something bubbly, but my booze-free winetasting has a giddying effect. I catch the train back to the
city, ready to toast New York with an artisan mocktail
in some dimly lit speakeasy. For no-and-low drinkers,
New York sure makes for an intoxicating playground.
Q&A
RO N D E L H O LD E R
Emmy-award-winning
filmmaker Rondel shares
his favourite city haunts
W H E R E D O YO U F I N D
I N S P I R AT I O N ?
Everything in New York is
an inspiration, but one of
my favourite places is the
Brooklyn Museum. They have
the best art exhibits and
they’re beautifully curated.
W H I C H P L AC E M A K E S
YO U F E E L AT H OM E ?
I was born and raised in
Flatbush, Brooklyn, which is
known as Little Caribbean.
It’s like being on the islands,
smelling jerk chicken cooking
on the side of the street and
hearing reggae and soca.
New York has so many of
these cultural pockets — you
can really dive into a different
culture within the city.
W H E R E ’ S YO U R
FAVO U R I T E V I E W P O I N T ?
One of my favourite views is
from the waterfront in Long
Island City in Queens. It really
gives you a remarkable take
on the Manhattan skyline,
including the UN Building and
Empire State Building.
W H AT P L AC E S H O U L D
E V E RY V I S I TO R G O TO ?
Central Park! There are so
many different nooks and
crannies that you can get
lost in. There’s a lot of free
programming, too, such as
the Summer Stage concert
series. It’s where the whole
IMAGE: JEN DAVIS
city comes together — you
can really see the full scope of
Customers enjoying one
of the three alcohol-free
New Yorkers there. I love it.
rondelholder.com
beers made by Brooklyn
Brewery in Williamsburg
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79
THE NEW GENERATION
OF LUXURY
20 TIMES SQUARE
701 7TH AVENUE
NEW YORK, NY 10036
RESERVATIONS 212 398 7017
WWW.EDITIONHOTELS.COM
N E W YO R K
Be active
There are a whole host of unusual ways to see a new side to New York
and get your heart rate up within the city limits. Words: David Farley
Above: Playing
basketball at The
Cage, a public court in
Greenwich Village
Play basketball
Surf
If you’ve seen people playing basketball on an outdoor
public court in movies and TV shows set in New York, the
scenes were most likely filmed at the West Fourth Street
Court. Known as ‘The Cage’ because it’s surrounded by
high chain-link fencing, the Greenwich Village court is
often buzzing with informal basketball games. Walk up,
announce your presence and soon enough you’ll be balling
with the best of them. NBA players Rod Strickland and
Jayson Williams got their start here, so who knows
— maybe you’ll get to play with some future NBA stars?
272 Sixth Avenue, NY 10012
Few visitors realise that New York has beaches at all, let
alone ones where you can surf. But that’s what you get at
Rockaway Beach in Queens. Here, you’ll find Locals Surf
School, a simple tent set up on the sand, with surfboards
stacked inside, wetsuits hanging from the railings and
instructors ready to teach you how to hang 10 on the
Atlantic waves. Lessons begin on dry land before moving
into the water, and the pace is gentle for newbies. You might
not be catching barrels like a pro after one lesson, but it’s fun
to dive into the city’s unique surf culture as you try.
Two-hour lessons $100 (£78) each. localssurfschool.com
Dance
Kayak
Hip-hop originated in the South Bronx 50 years ago when
DJ Kool Herc spun records at his sister’s back-to-school
party, isolating the percussive elements (‘breaks’) of each
track and talking over them. The city has since spawned
a universe of stars, from Run DMC to Nicky Minaj, and
celebrates the form with walking tours, murals and a new
museum set to open in the Bronx in 2024. To fully immerse
yourself in the culture, take a dance lesson. In its Hell’s
Kitchen studio, Ailey Extension teaches students popping,
locking, breaking, jerkin’ and everything in between, with
several classes aimed at complete beginners. New student
90-minute class $20 (£16). alvinailey.org/extension
Here’s a view of Manhattan that you certainly don’t see
every day: from water level on the Hudson River. At Pier 26
in Tribeca, you can take out a bright-yellow kayak
— entirely for free — and bob about in the bay. If you’ve
never been in a kayak before, no problem: you do need be
able to swim, but the people at Downtown Boathouse will
show you how to paddle before you set off on the water.
If you’d like to take the activity further out into the river,
you can book a tour with Manhattan Kayak, which offers
90-minute ‘skyline’ and ‘night’ excursions ($65/£51) that
are suitable for beginners. downtownboathouse.org
manhattankayak.com
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N E W YO R K
Clockwise from top
left: Leon Johnson in
his studio; some of the
creations at Hats by
Bunn; a walk through
Harlem with Leon;
family-owned restaurant
The Edge Harlem
Discover a new
renaissance in Harlem
A new generation of creatives has joined the old guard in keeping the artistic spirit of
Harlem alive. One local painter and illustrator takes us on a tour. Words: Zoey Goto
“I come here when I need creative inspiration,” artist Leon
Johnson tells me as we emerge from the subway into the
beating heart of Harlem. Around us, market stalls sell
dangly earrings, incense and African print paper fans.
A mosaic depicting the jazz greats who left their legacy on
Harlem, including Cab Calloway and Count Basie, covers
the length of a wall. Out of sight, old-school beats pump out
of a boombox.
Stretching 45 blocks from Central Park to 155th Street,
Harlem is one of the most culturally rich neighbourhoods
in the world, its character shaped by waves of migration,
particularly from the Caribbean and the American South.
During the 1920s and 1930s, in a movement known as
the Harlem Renaissance, an artistic explosion from
Black writers, artists and musicians pinned this Upper
Manhattan district to the map. The Great Depression,
followed by decades of decline, signalled the end of an
era, although Harlem’s legacy as a hotbed of artistic
experimentation lived on. Nearly 100 years later, the
historic neighbourhood is once again in the throes of a
revival, thanks to a new generation of makers.
Leon, a mixed-media artist who weaves his passion for
1990s hip-hop culture into his freestyle illustrations, is
taking me on a walking tour of his favourite haunts. He’s
swapped his work uniform of paint-splattered apron for
a T-shirt emblazoned with one of his own graphic prints.
Having moved here from the Midwest 16 years ago, Leon
set up his studio near the Harlem River, drawn by the
area’s energy and sense of community. “Being in Harlem
has always felt like being part of a creative family,” he
enthuses, as we approach Hats by Bunn, a boutique where
he buys his dapper headwear.
Mr Bunn himself emerges from the workshop at the back
of the store, surrounded by racks and shelves crammed
with a rainbow of pork pie and fedora hats. The Jamaicanborn milliner started making and selling hats in Harlem in
the 1980s. Despite growing concerns of gentrification, the
neighbourhood he fell in love with then remains. “I don’t
think too much has changed,” he muses. “Sure, a bunch of
younger people moved here looking for cheap rent, but this
area is still where it all happens. It will always be the core
of the city.”
From the old guard to the new, we duck into the studio
of Milton Washington, a photographer documenting
local street life with his iPhone. “Harlem has a super-high
concentration of artists,” Milton says as he walks me
through his space. Writ large across the walls are shots
of his neighbourhood: flamboyant hats worn for Sunday
church services, a woman adorned in African beads, and
a gentleman in a natty suit shooting the breeze. “There’s
artistic inspiration here and a honing of your craft that’s
difficult to find elsewhere,” he adds
Back on the street, Leon and I head a couple of blocks
northeast, passing a mixture of shiny condos, red-brick
tenements and handsome brownstone townhouses.
A pitstop at The Edge Harlem, where the menu reflects
the owners’ British-Jamaican-American heritage, rewards
with jerk chicken tacos and homemade sorrel, a traditional
Caribbean drink infused with hibiscus.
Trace a finger back from modern-day Harlem to the
birth of its second revival and you’ll arrive at Red Rooster
Harlem, Leon says as we head back into central Harlem.
Ethiopian-Swedish chef Marcus Samuelsson opened his
restaurant in 2011, and it’s a boisterous dining room where
the walls are lined with local artwork, including Leon’s
own expressive pen and ink illustrations. Plates of crispy
fried chicken and waffles, devoured during Sunday gospel
brunches, have become the stuff of legend. It’s become an
all-encompassing celebration of the creative spirit that
gives Harlem its unique flavour.
I bid Leon farewell and take the scenic route back to the
subway station, popping my head in at The Long Gallery,
a contemporary arts space showcasing under-represented
artists, many from the local area. Owner Lewis Long shows
me around while jazz plays in the background. He grabs his
jacket and offers to walk a few blocks with me.
We pause outside The Studio Museum, an esteemed
gallery that’s showcased the work of artists of African
descent since 1968. It’s currently closed, with work ongoing
to expand what’s considered one of the most important
incubators for the visual arts in the US. “Just take a look
around you,” Leon says, pointing towards a horizon busy
with the construction of new buildings, many rooted in the
creative arts. “Harlem’s being brought back to life.”
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N E W YO R K
Drink in some of the
world’s most inventive bars
With its venues ranking high on the World’s 50 Best Bar list year after year, New York is continually
raising the standards when it comes to atmospheric cocktail bars. Words: Amanda Canning
Double Chicken Please,
Lower East Side
You’ll see the queue for Double Chicken Please
long before you see the venue. New Yorkers
cross town to have a casual drink in its Front
Room, which serves cocktails on tap, but the
hot ticket is one of the 15 reservation-only seats
in the back-room Coop. The dark, wood-lined
space is dominated by a central bar lit in soft
pink neon. Here, mixologists make good on
the mission of co-founders GN Chan and Faye
Chen to recreate classic dishes in liquid form.
The result? Order a Waldorf Salad or Japanese
Cold Noodle, and the resulting cocktail will
somehow taste exactly like that — but entirely
delicious. doublechickenplease.com
Bartender’s choice: A savoury and utterly
surprising Cold Pizza, made with tequila.
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The Campbell, Midtown
Casa Mezcal, Lower East Side
Tucked away in a corner of Grand Central
Terminal, the small brass sign announcing
The Campbell gives no hint of the grandeur
to come. Occupying the former office and
halls of financier John W Campbell, the bar
retains the Florentine-inspired architecture
of the original 1920s interior, with its painted
beamed ceiling, leaded-glass window and
enormous stone fireplace. It’s more castle
than railway station bar. Creating drinks that
live up to the surroundings is a tough job, but
The Campbell’s staff work magic behind the
marble counter, serving classic cocktails and
new concoctions to customers in no hurry to
catch a train anywhere. thecampbellnyc.com
Bartender’s choice: A zesty, orange-flecked
sazerac made with rye whiskey.
New Yorkers have Casa Mezcal to thank for
their obsession with the agave-based spirit.
Opened by two Oaxacans in 2009, the bar and
cultural centre was the first mezcaleria in the
city. A painting of farmers kneeling in worship
at an agave plant marks the entrance, while
the turquoise, fairy-lit cabinetry of the bar
seems part altar, surrounded by bottles and
a diverse collection of artefacts that includes
an accordion and a stuffed turkey. As Mexican
music plays on the stereo, happy punters make
their way through flights of mezcal or tequila,
with plates of rubbed-pork tacos on repeat
order from the kitchen. casamezcalnyc.com
Bartender’s choice: A potent margarita made
with mezcal, the rim of the glass lined with
pink peppercorn salt.
From left: The Coop bar
at Double Chicken Please;
a penicillin cocktail at
The Gatehouses at King’s
County Distillery; The
Gatehouses; owner Takuma
Watanabe at Martiny’s
Martiny’s, Union Square
Banzabar, Lower East Side
The Gatehouses, northwest Brooklyn
Behind the discreet black door to Martiny’s
lies a temple to precision. In a red-brick
building that was once a carriage house and
then a sculptor’s studio, Tokyo-born owner
Takuma Watanabe delivers an experience
that transcends the ordinary. An eye for detail
is apparent throughout, from the glassware
sourced in Japan to a devotion to premium
spirits in the 10-list drinks menu. Each cocktail
order here receives a level of care and theatre
befitting a tea ceremony. And yet there’s
no formality or pretension here, with goodhumoured bartenders chatting to customers
settled in for the evening. martinys.com
Bartender’s choice: Takuma’s version of a
martini, the Grand Martiny, made with gin,
sherry, port, cognac and elderflower liqueur.
Taking the adventuring days of old as its
inspiration, it’s apt that it takes a bit of an
expedition to find Banzabar — down an alley,
through a restaurant, up some stairs and
through a warren of rooms. An unmarked
door opens onto a tiny candle-lit bar that
feels like the cabin of a ship’s captain, with
wood-panelling and nautical prints on the
walls. There are just 20 seats here, with tables
arranged around a horseshoe-shaped bar.
Punters wise enough to reserve one choose
from a cocktail menu divided into sections
such as ‘familiar ports’ (traditional) and ‘here
there be monsters’ (inventive). banzarbar.com
Bartender’s choice: A sweet, fruity
Shackleton’s Urn, using gin and rum and
served with a flaming lime.
Located at the entrance to the Brooklyn
Navy Yard, The Gatehouses is the tasting
room of King’s County Distillery, the city’s
oldest. It makes its whiskey in the former
paymaster’s building, where sailors once
collected their wages, while its clientele
drink it in the former 19th-century gatehouse,
a delightfully ramshackle place with exposed
plasterwork and creaky floorboards. New
converts find their way here after a distillery
tour, joining the many regulars at marbletopped tables to enjoy a whiskey flight
or cocktail — many of whose ingredients
are made here in New York.
kingscountydistillery.com
Bartender’s choice: A tart penicillin, made
with peated bourbon and served with ginger.
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Make Every Moment Delightful
lottenypalace.com • +1(800) 804-7035 • Madison Avenue at 50th Street, New York, New York
N E W YO R K
Explore
after dusk
The City That Never Sleeps offers plenty of unique
activities once the sun goes down. Words: David Farley
Green-Wood Cemetery, Brooklyn
Established in 1838, Green-Wood Cemetery doubled as
a public park until nearby Prospect Park opened in 1867.
Families would picnic among the tombs and take carriage
rides along its well-kept paths, perhaps contemplating
their mortality in the process. It’s a National Historic
Landmark these days, its 478 acres of rolling hills and
grand mausoleums as popular as ever with New Yorkers.
It’s never more atmospheric than at night, and you can visit
on a guided moonlit tour, accompanied by a historian and
an accordion player, perhaps paying a visit to the homes
of permanent residents including composer Leonard
Bernstein and artist Jean-Michel Basquiat. You’ll see the
necropolis in a whole new light — literally. $30 (£23) per
person. green-wood.com
Queens Night Market, Queens
There are 160 languages spoken in Queens, and nearly half
of its residents are foreign-born. To sample the borough’s
cultural and culinary diversity in one hit, head to Queens
Night Market on a Saturday (from late April to late August
and mid-September to late October). Start by taking in the
smells and sights of the Asian-style market, where over
65 food vendors and a handful of artisans from around
the world convene. Here you can savour a crispy samosa
as a live band plays salsa music, graze on goat curry while
watching a traditional Tibetan dance, or devour a South
Indian dosa while browsing Andean alpaca yarn hats. It’s
New York City in microcosm. queensnightmarket.com
The High Line, west Manhattan
On Tuesday evenings between April and October, the
Amateur Astronomers Association teams up with the High
Line to do a stargazing tour from the popular elevated
park on the west side of Manhattan. Stationed at various
points along the 1.45-mile walkway, the astronomers and
their telescopes allow you to look beyond the skyscrapers
to get a more intimate peek at the celestial splendour of the
heavens above. Is that ringed globe really Saturn? Is that
bright light in the distance really Venus? Is that the Big
Dipper? New York may be known for its famous residents,
but these are the real stars. Free. thehighline.org
Rooftop Reds, northwest Brooklyn
What pairs better with a full-bodied glass of red wine or
a crisp, cool white wine? A leafy rooftop in Brooklyn that
has a stunning view of Manhattan, that’s what. Welcome
to Rooftop Reds, the world’s first rooftop urban vineyard.
Located in the Brooklyn Navy Yard, it runs regular lateopening events, such as film and pizza nights, pop-up
dinners, wine and cheese pairings and live music that goes
down easy with a glass in your hand. The optimum time to
go is early evening when you can watch the sunset, before
the increasingly twinkly lights of New York City begin to
sparkle. rooftopreds.com
Touring the catacombs,
Green-Wood Cemetery
Above: Enjoying food,
drink and music at
Queens Night Market
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N E W YO R K
The view from the rooftop park of
Pier 57 on the Hudson River
GETTING THERE
takes between an hour and 90 minutes
WHEN TO GO
access to the Empire State Building
Multiple carriers fly direct from
and is usually the quickest way into
Though a year-round destination,
and American Museum of Natural
airports across the UK to New York,
the city, given road traffic. New York’s
New York is known for frequent snow
History, as well as admission into three
including budget airline Norse, which
public transport includes the subway,
in January and February, and humid
other experiences from a list of six,
operates out of Gatwick and into JFK
buses and ferries. The New York
highs in July and August. Spring and
including the Statue of Liberty and the
airport, east of the city. Cities such as
MetroCard gives unlimited access on
autumn are comfortable travel times.
Guggenheim. citypass.com
Edinburgh and Manchester are served
local subways and buses for seven days
by airlines including Virgin Atlantic.
($33/£25). Ferry tickets cost $4 (£3) for a
MORE INFO
itinerary that includes UK flights,
flynorse.com virginatlantic.com
single ride; book on the NYC Ferry app
nyctourism.com iloveny.com
accommodation in a Manhattan hotel,
Average flight time: 8h.
before travel. mta.info ferry.nyc
Original Travel has a six-night
tickets to a show and local travel
New York’s yellow and lime-green cabs
HOW TO DO IT
passes, plus the option to add on
GETTING AROUND
are the only ones you can legally hail on
A CityPass gives discounted entry into
experiences such as a private walking
A combination of the AirTrain and
the streets, by raising your hand. Pre-
some of New York’s major attractions.
tour of Williamsburg. From £2,055 per
subway from JFK airport to Manhattan
book with the Curb app. gocurb.com
The nine-day £116 pass gives you
person. originaltravel.co.uk
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great MINDS
where
meet
the
View digital travel guide
VISITITHACA.COM
GREAT
outdoors
A vibrant hub of nature & education in New York’s Finger Lakes region
ITH International Airport has daily direct flights from JFK
Explore more waterfalls! Ithaca, NY is a scenic 4 hour drive from NYC by bus or car,
and 3 hours from Niagara Falls.
(Taughannock Falls, photo by Anmol Bohra)
IMAGE: SARAH MARSHALL
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OF CHANGE
Life plays out much as it always has on the great plains of Kenya’s
Maasai Mara, but the latest generation of Maasai are gradually
changing the face of modern safari — with greater empowerment
for female guides and local communities as a whole
WORDS: SAR AH M ARSHALL
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K E N YA
Teetering on his lanky,
matchstick legs, a newborn
wildebeest takes his first steps.
Clockwise from top:
IMAGES: ALAMY; SARAH MARSHALL
The plains of the Maasai
Mara host the Great
Migration between June
and October; Maasai
guide Raphael Lesisa;
a wildebeest calf just
after being born in the
Naboisho Conservancy
Previous pages: Guide
Brenda Senewakorian
on the Mara
Fur still damp and matted from his birth
moments earlier, the disorientated youngster
wobbles forward, driven by instinct to gain
strength through his mother’s milk. She’s
standing just a few steps away, exhausted
from having carried her cargo for almost nine
months through the grassy plains and stumpy
whistling thorn acacias of the Naboisho
Conservancy. Predators such as lions,
cheetahs and leopards roam this reserve in the
Greater Mara, near the border with Tanzania
in southwestern Kenya.
But now’s no time for rest. Lured by the
scent of this vulnerable new life, a pack of
black-backed jackals slink from the shadows of
the long grass, forcing the new family to shift
gear with surprising speed. The mother’s head
swings quickly to face them, her tawny ears
thrust forward like a pair of satellite dishes,
and then both her and her young son are off
— galloping towards the rest of their herd a
few miles away in the distance, lost in a cloud
of ochre dust. Thanks to those lanky legs,
honed over hundreds of thousands of years
of evolution, even a young wildebeest can
survive out here on the plains from day one.
Dramas like this unfold daily across the
Mara ecosystem — which encompasses
the government-run reserve famous for
hosting the Great Migration, when millions
of animals arrive from Tanzania in search of
fresh pasture, as well as some surrounding
community-owned land. But many of these
dramas take place without anyone ever
knowing. Unless you have a skilled guide
to point them out to you, that is. With me is
Raphael Lesisa, a local Maasai guide, who’d
spotted the heavily pregnant wildebeest
minutes before she gave birth in front of us.
He grew up in this area and has a well-honed
talent for reading the landscape and the
animals that reside here.
As we drive off in search of more wildlife, the
wheels of our vehicle bumping down the dirt
road, Raphael fills me in on some of the local
traditions. Pastoralists, he says, will never
graze their cattle in an area where wildebeest
have given birth, due to their belief that the
embryonic sac releases toxins into the soil.
Raphael adds that he’s eagerly awaiting the
return of the migratory storks, which haven’t
arrived yet due to a lack of rain. Kenya is
experiencing its worst drought for 40 years,
amid its sixth consecutive failed rainy season.
I ask how he learned to read the bush
so well. “It’s easy for us Maasai,” he says,
shrugging from behind the wheel, adding that
he grew up thinking tourists were mad for
visiting the Mara and paying money to watch
the animals he sees every day for free. “Since
we were children, we’ve always been taught
how to read the animals and how to look after
them. I quickly learned the best way to escape
a buffalo — you have to climb a tree,” he says,
laughing. “My forefathers knew how to avoid
elephants by checking the direction of the
wind and staying downwind of them — this
prevents them from picking up your scent
— and that you should never run away or
turn your back on a lion, as it’ll see you as
prey,” he adds.
While the in-depth knowledge of the Maasai
has been called upon since safaris first arrived
here decades ago, it’s only recently that its
value has translated into greater rewards::
for the Maasai, guiding has turned into a
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93
career that can offer proper remuneration
and opportunities for advancement in return
for their expertise. This is all part of a much
broader change sweeping across the region,
bringing the industry into the 21st century
— with carbon-neutral camps and female
guides also leading the charge towards a new
kind of safari. Here in Naboisho, much talk
revolves around the newest conservancy, the
Pardamat Conservation Area, an hour’s drive
to the north, and its forward-thinking new
guiding school, which opened earlier this year.
Guiding light
Raphael — like the 400-odd other guides
currently working in the Mara — studied at
the Koiyaki Guiding School, in the Naboisho
Conservancy, which opened in 2005 to offer
local young people the chance to gain wellpaid jobs in tourism.
Since then, a growing movement to set up
conservancies via the Maasai Mara Wildlife
Conservancies Association has emerged
as a way of securing much-needed land for
wildlife while improving local livelihoods
at the same time. Landowners register their
land as conservation areas and receive lease
payments, employment opportunities and
other benefits as a result.
Pardamat is the next chapter — it’s unique
in that it’s now the only Mara conservancy
that works via a mixed-use model, where
wildlife and communities coexist on its rocky
hilltops overlooking the great plains. The
conservancy’s 850-plus landowners chose to
remain here to live and work — unusual in a
region where human-wildlife conflict is on
the rise — opting to implement management
techniques such as installing predator-proof
fences to protect livestock. Pardamat is
showing how wildlife and communities can
live side by side.
And now, on land donated by the
community, it’s the location for the new
Wildlife Tourism College (WTC), which opened
this year to do the same job as Koiyaki — to
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train the next generation of local guides. I
meet WTC’s general manager, Geoffrey Bob
Ouma, for a tour. Featuring an open kitchen,
a dining area and a computer room set in an
observation tower, the high-tech glass-andsteel building offers an experience that’s a
world away from local school studies, which
are typically conducted beneath shady trees.
Pointing to the horizon, where the roofs of
houses glitter in the sun, he runs me through
the catalogue of challenges facing the Maasai
today: growing populations living in rapidly
expanding towns and cities; grazing areas
for livestock shrinking due to drought; and
competition between wild animals and people
for natural resources encouraging more
wildlife to move to places where people live,
and vice versa.
“We want to train the next generation so
that they don’t just have to rely on keeping
cattle and following the traditional ways,”
says Geoffrey. “Of course, culture is part of us
— this is more about diversifying so they can
have a different source of income, and value
conserving the environment in the process.”
Courses at the WTC cover all aspects
of hospitality — from room stewards to
receptionists — as well as environmental
management and guiding. There’s space for
40 students from the local community, all
sponsored by various tourism companies.
One of the key players was Asilia Africa,
which was involved in setting up Koiyaki in
2005 and is now working closely with the WTC
in Pardamat. Guides who go on to work with
Asilia are offered benefits that are still quite rare
in the Mara, including health insurance. I’m
staying at the company’s Encounter Mara Camp
in Naboisho, which offers guests a behind-thescenes look at conservation via tours of the
college and Pardamat itself.
Hidden within a warren of tunnels cut into a
mass of thick bushes that overlook the plains,
the camp is made up of simple, expeditionstyle canvas tents with bucket showers — the
focus is very much on the wild surroundings.
Clockwise from top:
The library at the new
Wildlife Tourism College;
lilac-breasted rollers
are a common sight in
Kenya; Asilia Africa’s
Encounter Mara camp
is hidden in a warren of
tunnels cut into a mass
of thick croton
and acacia bushes
overlooking the plains
IMAGES: SARAH MARSHALL; AWL IMAGES
K E N YA
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K E N YA
IMAGE: MARK WILLIAMS
Maasai culture is passed through the
generations via singing and dancing
— very little is ever written down. Their
songs range from tales of cattle raiding
to ceremonial pleas for the rain to come
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K E N YA
While the camp is circled by an electric
fence to prevent destruction by bulldozing
elephants, it still receives a parade of
four-legged visitors, among them genets,
porcupines and even big cats.
Early one morning, I’m woken by the sound
of lions roaring. It’s so loud that it’s clear
Raphael and I won’t have to travel far from
camp to catch a glimpse of them. We find them
near the mess tent, where buffet lunches are
served daily. No doubt seeking sanctuary from
her male suitors, a lioness has brought her tiny
cubs with her, having somehow managed to
sneak in. She spends the day sleeping under a
bush close to one of the guest tents.
“I was frightened of lions when I was small,”
says Raphael as we sit in a car watching the
cubs rolling and tumbling in the morning light.
“People in my community would kill male lions
as a rite of passage, to show their strength.
But all of that stopped when the conservancy
model came in — Maasai communities realised
they could benefit from wildlife tourism.”
Green season
From top: Male lions
were once killed by
IMAGES: GETTY; HENRIK NILSSON
the Maasai as a test
of strength, but this
practice ended when
the conservancy model
was introduced around
the year 2000; Emboo
is the first carbonneutral camp in the
region, with much of the
property made using
recycled materials
The following day, my first stop is Emboo
River Camp, a modern affair located on the
banks of its namesake river inside the Maasai
Mara National Reserve, an hour’s drive to the
west. Members of a local Maasai community
greet me, inviting me to experience how
their culture is passed down through the
generations via singing and dancing — very
little is ever written down, they explain.
Wrapped in red chequered shukas (woollen
cloaks) and wearing sandals made from
recycled tyres, the young warriors, known as
morans, carry beaded fimbos — wooden spears
used to shepherd livestock and see off wild
animals. Their songs range from tales of cattle
raiding to ceremonial pleas for rain, and are
followed by a jumping competition. Bouncing
higher and higher, their belts of silver discs
jingle and glint in the flickering flames, it’s
a ritual that demonstrates strength — and
hopefully also attracts a wife.
Emboo (a name that means ‘pride’ in the
Maasai language, Maa) opened in 2020 as
the first carbon-neutral camp in the Mara. Its
owners, young Belgian couple Valery Super
and Loic Amado, who now live in Nairobi,
were inspired to set up the project after being
disappointed by the negative impact of some
of the other camps in the Mara — which they
say can have noisy diesel-powered generators
and discard wastewater into rivers.
Much of the property has been built from
recycled materials. As I explore, I spot a bar
with walls made from recycled Tetra Pak
cartons, paving slabs fashioned from waste
plastic and rooftops crafted from sustainably
sourced wood. A colourful chart on display
at the camp’s entrance calculates how much
carbon is saved in every area of the business
— citing everything from the four solarpowered cars to the laundry washed by hand
using non-toxic, herb-based products made
by a company called Grounded. Even the rain
showers in the guest rooms — luxury safari
tents filled with handmade furniture from
local artisans — are powered by the sun.
On one of the routine tours of the camp’s
green facilities, guest relations manager Joseph
Kakonzo shows me a lagoon where wastewater
is filtered using native plants, and explains how
the complex system of copper and titanium
plates used to clean a swimming pool works.
“It’s so free from chemicals, you don’t need to
wear goggles,” he says with a smile. Next we
pause in a workshop where empty wine bottles
are recycled to make drinking glasses and
waste is separated for recycling.
Sitting down to lunch on a table next to
the river, I tuck into a silky massaman curry
made with coconut, carrot and yarrow root.
All meals served at Emboo are plant-based
— although meat additions can be requested
— and many ingredients are grown in the
camp’s vertical garden, where herbs and leafy
greens are cultivated in slender towers to save
space and produce a greater yield. The menu
has been designed by chefs at trendy farm-
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
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IMAGES: SASHA JULIARD; MARK WILLIAMS
K E N YA
to-table restaurant Cultiva in the capital,
Nairobi, and artisanal Kenyan brands like 254
Brewing (craft beer) and Spring Valley Coffee
are served at the bar.
The next morning, I wake up to rain, which
has transformed the pathways into thick mud.
Drops of water shimmer like crystals on the
spiders’ webs decorating the bush as I set off
on my first game drive. I’m with young guide
Geoffrey Karia, who’s remarkably fresh faced
given how early we’ve set off — the sun is
just rising over the plains. He’s dressed in a
puffer jacket and jeans — a stark contrast to
the starched uniforms at many other safari
camps — and as we manoeuvre over the
sticky terrain, he tells me what inspired him
to go into conservation. It was a talk given by
a guide at another camp when he was eight
years old — he was visiting with school.
Next to him is trainee Brenda Senewakorian,
whose long, plaited hair is swept into a
bun. She’s one of several new female guides
recruited by Emboo in an effort to bolster their
numbers. Traditionally in rural communities,
women would be expected to cook and fetch
water, among other domestic chores. Now,
female guides behind safari vehicle steering
wheels are an increasingly common sight
in the Mara — largely due to communities
becoming more accepting, greater education
from initiatives such as the WTC and greater
flexibility from employers around family
commitments. “Animals are just like us,” she
says, her eyes glued to her binoculars. “They
just want to take care of their young ones.”
She’s a single mother who relies on the support
of her family to help raise her child, but she
says she’s determined to earn her own income.
She catches sight of two male lions further
up the dirt track silhouetted against the
horizon, their manes growing bright in the
amber light — unlikely halos for the pair.
Geoffrey explains that they’re tracking a herd
of buffalo over the granite boulders up ahead,
and soon its clear they’ve identified a calf that’s
been separated from its mother. Both of them
make a beeline for the animal, and with one
lazy swipe of a paw, their breakfast is served.
As one clamps his jaws around its throat, the
other licks the calf’s fur greedily.
Maasai matriarchs
Across the Mara, more camps are employing
women — including larger operations such as
Olonana, just over an hour’s drive north, where
glass-fronted rooms overlook the Mara River
on the border of the Mara Triangle, shielded by
forest from the road. They’re in the process of
training their first female guide when I arrive.
At Olonana, ingredients for
meals are home-grown
Above: All Emboo’s safari
vehicles are solar-powered
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101
K E N YA
Left: In Kenya, older Maasai matriarchs
are known as ‘mamas’ as a sign of
respect from the rest of the community
WILDLIFE TOURISM COLLEGE
OF MAASAI MARA
SANCTUARY
OLONANA
Pardamat
Conservation
Area
Mara
Triangle
EMBOO
RIVER
Maasai Mara
National Reserve
Mara Naboisho
Conservancy
ENCOUNTER
MARA
r
M ara Rive
TA
KENYA
K
N
E
Z
NAIROBI
N
A
Y
N
A
IA
10 miles
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Fly direct from Heathrow to Nairobi
with British Airways and Kenya Airways.
ba.com kenya-airways.com
Average flight time: 8h45m.
Other airlines such as Ethiopian
Airlines, Air France and Emirates
also fly via their respective hubs.
ethiopianairlines.com airfrance.co.uk
emirates.com
Air Kenya and Safari Link operate
flights to the Mara from Wilson Airport.
airkenya.com flysafarilink.com
WHEN TO GO
The Great Migration passes through
the Mara between July and October
— peak season, when lodge prices are
highest. The long rains typically fall
102
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
It’s not long before we find a mother rhino
and her calf hiding in the long grass. Unlike
white rhinos, which tend to stick to the plains,
black rhinos are more elusive. Using the ‘guide
magic’ he’s acquired throughout his career,
Anthony transforms animal encounters such
as this into a soap opera and Sofie listens
carefully to the plot lines. As we watch them,
he tells us of the legendary black rhino called
Mary, who spawned a new population of the
creatures in the area and inspired the Kenyan
government to establish a protection project.
“When she was orphaned by poachers,
Mary lived with a herd of buffaloes and then
moved to a group of elands who accepted her,”
he says, as if reading a bedtime story. “She
disappeared, and brought back a boyfriend.”
Next, we drive as far as the border with
Tanzania in search of a group of lions known
as the ‘Egyptian pride’. Rays of saffron light
filter through the clouds and reflect off pools
of water. Eventually, we find them padding
between terracotta termite mounds. Sofie
watches as the cats give chase to warthogs,
enraptured by a scene that’s played out here
for countless generations. While the essence
of safari may remain the same — of watching
wildlife out on the plains — change is coming
to Kenya, as the next generation of Maasai
guides forge their own path.
between March and May, while the
short ones come in November and
December. In winter, between June
and September, temperatures can fall
to 11C. Throughout the year, wildlife
sightings are excellent. The shoulder
season months of March and November
are good options for lower prices.
WHERE TO STAY
Encounter Mara, Naboisho. From
$374 (£296) per person, full board.
asiliaafrica.com
Emboo River Camp, Maasai Mara
National Reserve. From $1,100 (£870)
per person, full board. emboo.camp
Olonana Safari Lodge, Mara Triangle.
From $900 (£720) per person, full
board. sanctuaryretreats.com
MORE INFO
Magical Kenya. magicalkenya.com
HOW TO DO IT
Abercrombie & Kent has a seven-night
trip, with two nights at Asilia Encounter
Mara, Olonana and Emboo each and one
night in Nairobi, from £6,999 per person,
full board, including flights, transfers
and fees. abercrombiekent.co.uk
IMAGE: MARK WILLIAMS. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
When I get there, I’m ushered beneath
a grove of acacia trees, where a Maasai
welcoming ceremony awaits. Chanting,
two Maasai matriarchs, known in Kenya as
‘mamas’, sprinkle water over me and place a
beaded garland around my neck, dubbing me
Ndali — a Maa word meaning ‘bringer of rain’.
They hope the rainy season will be plentiful.
Next, I head out on a game drive with
24-year-old fledgling guide Sofie Rasio, who’s
quiet with a broad smile, and her mentor
Anthony Lekumok Olempikas, who’s a veteran
in the Mara and showing her the ropes. The
area is prime wildebeest habitat during
peak migration season, but we’re searching
for black rhino; this is one of the best, and
possibly only, places in the area to see them.
“Girls couldn’t go to school before,” says
Sofie as we trundle along the dirt road,
Anthony at the wheel. She was born in
Olonana village, which is next to the camp.
“Our parents thought it would be a waste of
money because we’d just end up married and
would have to stay at home to raise a family.
But the elders understand now that what I do
is work, and that everyone needs to contribute
to the family income now that life is more
expensive. The mentality has changed: if men
can drive, we can drive; if men can guide, we
can guide, too.”
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104
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Every year, the Provençal town of
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer hosts a
pilgrimage like no other, drawing
Romani people from across Europe
to the wetlands and open horizons
of the Camargue. The festivities are
a fitting tribute to one of France’s
most singular regions, famed for its
white horses and cowboys
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
105
FR ANCE
“Vive Saintes-Maries!” comes the rousing cry
from a man in a fedora and green silk shirt,
his neck strung with silver pendants depicting
hedgehogs, caravans and saints.
“Vive Sainte Sara!” comes the bellowed reply
from the crowd that’s gathered alongside me
in the sun-beaten square in the French coastal
town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. Call and
response, music and rhythm are everywhere
here at the Pèlerinage Gitan, a riotous
pilgrimage that draws Romani communities
from across Europe each May. I round a corner
into another square to find flamenco guitarists
and singers entwined in a gleeful duel. Each
musical phrase is marked with handclaps and
cries of “Olé!” from surrounding revellers.
Saintes-Maries is at the heart of the
Camargue, the delta of the Rhône — a strange
land of swampy marshes wedged between
Montpellier and Marseille along France’s
southern coast. For the most part, it remains
blissfully undeveloped. Inhabited by vibrant
flamingos and cowboys riding primeval, ghostwhite Camargue horses, these humid wetlands
have the feel of an interzone; a place apart.
There can be no more fitting introduction to
the region than the Pèlerinage Gitan, which is
a festival like no other — a homecoming for a
people defined by their statelessness.
As I wander the streets, I can smell the
paprika of Hungarian goulash and the saffron
of olla gitana (Andalucian Romani stew),
bubbling in great cauldrons, jostling for
olfactory dominance with shakshuka, paella
and baked apples. Fragments of conversations
in French, Spanish and Dutch reach my ears.
The sound of flamenco dissolves into strains
of Balkan brass, the ornamented cadences
of Eastern European klezmer and the jaunty
jig of Parisian gypsy jazz — a style of music
pioneered by the legendary guitarist Django
Reinhardt, a regular attendee of the Pèlerinage
until his death in the early 1950s. I stop at a
stall to take a face-scrunching shot of tuica, a
Romanian plum brandy that’s imbibed with
great gusto throughout this week-long event.
I push my way through the crowds to the
town’s honey-hued, Romanesque Church of
the Saintes Maries de la Mer, where I’ve been
granted an audience with Father Vincent
Bedon, the national chaplain for the Romani
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
in France and also the priest in charge of the
pilgrimage. He’s friendly and unassuming,
a small man with glasses and a shirt as grey as
his hair, fastened with a dog collar. He gives
me a conspiratorial grin and lifts a sleeve
to reveal a tattoo of the Camargue cross (an
anchor intertwined with a heart and a crucifix)
on his wrist. “It’s just a transfer,” he says,
laughing. “I got it here at the pilgrimage.”
Running the festival is no small task — there
are around 60,000 people here, Vincent tells
me. But why have they come? The focus of the
celebration, it turns out, is revealed in the name,
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. “Tradition says that
the four women who were the first to see the
risen Christ (Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome,
Mary Jacobe and their maid, Sarah) floated here
across the Mediterranean in a boat with no sails
or oars during the first century,” says Vincent.
The Romani people who have travelled
here, for all their cultural diversity, share one
thing: their Catholic faith. The ceremonial
centrepiece of the Pèlerinage Gitan is a mass in
the church, followed by a procession carrying
a statue of Saint Sarah down to the sea, flanked
by white Camargue horses. The annual festival
takes place around 24 May (Saint Sarah’s feast
day) and there’s a smaller autumnal reprise on
the Sunday closest to 22 October.
“Sarah is depicted as dark-skinned and
was said to be from Egypt,” Vincent explains.
“When the first Romani arrived in France in
the 15th century, the locals mistakenly thought
they, too, had come from Egypt — hence the
word ‘gypsy’ [short for ‘gyptian’]. So, Sarah
became their patron saint.” In actual fact,
genetic and linguistic studies suggest the
Romani originated in Northern India. Their
name for Saint Sarah, Sara e Kali, seems to lend
credence to this — the word ‘kali’ meaning ‘she
who is black’ in Sanskrit.
“Just wait until tomorrow,” Vincent adds,
alluding to the culmination of the festivities
and the procession, his eyes half-closed
in a reverie. “The statue, the candles, the
reliquaries, the horses. The faith of the faithful
— it’s a powerful thing.”
Clockwise from top left: Attendees
dressed in their finery at the Pèlerinage
Gitan; the Church of the Saintes-Mariesde-la-Mer plays a central role in the
annual Romani pilgrimage; musicians
from all over Europe serenade attendees;
the Camargue’s prized bulls feature in a
traditional ox cheek stew at L’Estrambord
restaurant, in Le Sambuc
Previous pages, from left: Arles
Amphitheatre, glimpsed through the
narrow streets of Arles’ old town; gardians
on horseback lead the procession of the
Pèlerinage Gitan through the streets of
Saintes-Maries de la Mer
FR ANCE
Clockwise from top: The Pèlerinage Gitan
culminates with gardians on horseback
wading into the sea; attendees of the
so-called Gypsy Pilgrimage line the beach
waiting for the statue of Saint Sarah, the
Romani’s patron saint; the statue being
carried to the sea
Leaving the church, I walk through
Saintes-Maries’ pretty streets, lined with
low-slung, terracotta-roofed buildings that
look more Spanish than French. Nearing
the beach, I find a huge car park filled with
vans and motorhomes. Licence plates speak
of a continent-wide caravan: Italy, the
Netherlands, Romania. There are also French
Romani here, of course. France’s Romani
population is estimated at between 300,000
and 500,000, but the exact number living in
the Camargue today is unknown, as they’re
mostly itinerant.
Among the vehicles are traditional wooden
wagons, hung with the Romani flag: a spoked
wagon wheel on a background of blue and
green. They’re also carved with images of
dogs and hedgehogs — the latter a Romani
symbol that’s thought to have originated in
19th-century Austria-Hungary when Romani
groups were attributed coats of arms depicting
native animals. Hedgehog meat is also
considered a delicacy among some Romani
cultures. Dogs, meanwhile, are popular
Romani pets — chihuahuas are tied to kennels
shaped like miniature wooden wagons that sit
alongside their full-sized counterparts.
Beside one wagon is an elderly lady in a
wheelchair, receiving a queue of visitors like
a living saint. She’s smartly dressed in a dark
suit jacket and a straw sun hat, her shoulders
hung with a necklace of vermilion spheres.
Cobalt-blue bangles clack on her wrists as she
shakes the hand of each successive devotee.
Feeling curious, I join the queue. “My name
is Jacqueline Baroncelli,” she says, when
it’s finally my turn. “My grandfather, Folco
de Baroncelli, was the one who started the
pilgrimage back in 1935.” The Romani queue
to meet Jacqueline because she’s a living piece
of Pèlerinage history. “It’s a unique event,”
she tells me. “The only one where Romani
communities come from all different places to
celebrate their collective identity.”
The next morning, I get to the church an
hour early and bag a spot near the altar. It’s
already packed and filled with the heat of
the Camargue swamps; steam rises from the
heads of the congregation as sunlight pours
in through the open door. The service is more
folksy and less formal than a typical religious
mass. Flamenco songs intersperse the liturgy,
drawing cries of ‘Olé!’ from the crowd. The
atmosphere builds as a wooden reliquary is
lowered slowly from the ceiling towards the
altar, the crowd lifting lit votive candles to
meet it. The voice of the father rises as tears
fall down the faces of the faithful and palms
face upward in prayer. I’m not religious, but I
feel rapturous. I sense a bead of sweat rolling
down my cheek. “Vive Saintes-Maries!” the
faithful chant. “Vive Sainte Sara! Amen!”
When the reliquary reaches the altar,
Saint Sarah’s statue — life-size, with a dark
complexion and wreathed in robes of pink,
gold and blue — is released from her crypt, and
the procession begins. Flanked by mounted
cowboys in shirts, ties and fedoras, the statue
is carried a mile or so to the sea, where it’s
placed on a small boat, bobbing about amid a
rapturous crowd that I follow into the ocean.
Before me, snow-white horses, up to their
bellies in seawater, are neatly arrayed before
banners and pennants in regal red and gold.
Behind them, a storm is gathering, dark clouds
broken by shafts of sunlight. It’s like a painting
of a Napoleonic Wars. “Vive Saintes-Maries!”
comes the final battle cry. “Vive Sainte Sara!”
Camargue cowboys
The following morning, I open my eyes to a
similarly majestic lineup of Camargue horses,
this time looking down at me from an arty
photograph on my hotel room wall. They’re
moving through a shimmering wetland,
white coats pristine against the mud, their
reflection fragmented by splashing hooves.
Images like this have come to symbolise the
Camargue and can be found plastered across
hotels, restaurants and offices throughout
the region. They neatly encapsulate its two
biggest attractions: hardy white horses (one
of the oldest breeds in the world) and their
otherworldly marshland environment.
I decide I need to experience both up close
— and, as luck would have it, there’s a riding
school, Crin Blanc, just across the road that
can take me.
“Don’t worry,” says my instructor,
Marine Tont, as I awkwardly clamber atop
my steed later that day in preparation for
a ride through the wetlands. “He’s a very
calm horse. His name is Espanyol.” He’s a
handsome beast, with a thick white mane and
the Camargue breed’s characteristic small
frame and white coat. “They’re born black
or brown and turn white at six years old,”
she says as we set off, Marine leading on her
own horse. Wearing a yellow floral shirt and
black jeans, my instructor rides with a breezy
confidence — she’s from Marseille, but moved
to the Camargue after university to work with
horses. “If you like horses, the Camargue is
the place to be,” she says with a smile.
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
109
FR ANCE
It’s a surreal landscape: boggy marsh
followed by beach, with alternating ribbons
of mud, water and sand stretching to the
horizon. There’s an eerie atmosphere — it
feels like a place on the threshold, a liminal
space between land and sea. That’s evident
in the plant life, which carpets the spongy
earth beneath our stirrups in ankle-high beds.
Marine points out vibrant splashes of colour:
lilac sea purslane, bright green glasswort
and purple sea lavender. They look strange
to my landlubber’s eyes, not quite terrestrial
nor marine, their stalks plump and succulent
like samphire and their colourful flowers
encrusted with crystals of salt. Evidently
they’re tasty, too, as Espanyol insists we stop
every few minutes so he can snack on them.
Each sandbank is dotted with splashes
of hot-pink — flamingos are another of the
Camargue’s charismatic animals. We stop to
watch them for a while. I’m struck by their
poise and grace on one leg, perfectly balanced
even while their heads scan underwater like
searchlights, filtering the water for feasts
of algae. The illusion of elegance is swiftly
shattered, however, when they take to the
air, resembling giant flying stick insects in
colourful jackets.
“There are 60,000 flamingos here in the
Camargue,” Marine says. “Some of them
migrate in the winter, but many choose to
stay.” I don’t blame them. With the vastness of
the sky, the stillness of the air, the landscape
one huge watery canvas in which everything
is mirrored in impressionistic brush strokes,
its beauty is surely not lost on anyone. The
region’s most vividly coloured inhabitants
get to compare the view from water level and
gliding lazily above. Spotting flamingos — as
well as other birds such as herons and ducks
— is among the biggest visitor draws in the
Camargue, particularly at protected sites like
the nearby Ornithological Park of Pont de Gau.
On the way back to town, we pass a
strange thatched cottage — squat, long and
whitewashed, it resembles a loaf of bread
topped with pilgrim hat. “The traditional
cottage of the gardian,” Marine explains.
“That’s what we call cattle herders here in the
Camargue. Our version of the cowboy.”
The chance to experience gardian culture
on an agrotourism farm is a highlight of the
Camargue countryside. Intrigued, I leave
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer behind, driving
north in a rental car through glistening
wetlands bordered by 10ft-tall grasses that
rustle in the hot wind, heading for a farm
11 0
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
called Mas Saint Germain. The flatness of the
landscape reminds me of the Fens of eastern
England; it creates a disorientating effect that
makes me feel I could drive on forever, trapped
in this marshy maze.
In reality, it only takes half an hour to
reach Mas Saint Germain, a Camargue horse
and bull farm 12 miles north east of SaintesMaries across the Étang de Vaccarès saltwater
lagoon. Mosquitoes swarm around my head
in whining clouds as I get out of the car.
A lumbering chocolate Labrador gives me a
slobbery welcome before I’m greeted by Laure
Vadon, whose family have run the farm for
over 300 years. Laure’s brother, Germain, as
is traditional in these parts, does most of the
cattle herding; Laure looks after the farm’s 40
Camargue horses and also oversees the farm’s
agrotourism operation.
“People come to stay for a while, to ride a
horse, brush it, build a relationship with it,”
she says. “It’s harder and harder to access
the natural world; people relish it.” The
farm’s cosy gîtes (rural holiday cottages) are
centuries-old stone buildings, one a former
dovecote; pigeons were once a mainstay on the
menu here, Laure tells me.
Laure takes me into a huge stone barn, with
swallows flitting between the rafters and the
building’s foundation year of 1709 inscribed
above the door. She introduces me to some
of her horses, which live a semi-feral life,
largely fending for themselves in the swamps
and feeding on reeds and coarse grasses.
“If humans disappeared, they could survive
without us,” Laure says; only in times of
extreme scarcity will she intervene to feed or
water them. The horses play a crucial role in the
herding of Camargue cattle. “The bulls won’t
less us near them if we’re not on horseback,”
Laure says. “I love to work with the bulls on my
horse. The three of us become one entity.”
The bulls are grazing in a field nearby.
“They’re a very ancient breed,” Laure says,
as we wander over to observe them. “We
haven’t modified them for centuries.” They’re
certainly primeval looking; like a negative
impression of the Camargue’s horses, similarly
small but jet black, and with thick, long horns
that curve like sickles to sharp points.
The bulls are the stars of the Course
Camarguaise, the local version of bullfighting,
which is the region’s favourite pastime. Unlike
Spanish bullfighting, this version is bloodless
— for the bulls, at least — and involves a
bullfighter, called a razeteur, attempting to
retrieve pieces of fabric draped around a bull’s
Clockwise from top: Camargue horses
are led through the marshlands on a
tour from Crin Blanc with guide Marine
Tont; bulls in La Capelière reserve;
the flora of the Camargue reflects its
environment, with species such as
marsh samphire thriving by the water
FR ANCE
From left: Arles has honey-hued streets
lined with cafes; Arles Amphitheatre is
one of the city’s many Roman sites
horns. “It started in the 19th century, when the
bulls were used to work the fields,” says Laure.
“Young farm workers would play with the
bulls, putting flowers and fabric on their horns
and trying to capture them.”
It wasn’t until the early 20th century that
the game’s rules became codified, thanks
in large part to none other than Folco de
Baroncelli, the grandfather of Jacqueline,
whom I’d met at the Pèlerinage Gitan.
“Baroncelli was the one who gave a frame to
this; costumes to dress in, a set of rules,” says
Laure. Baroncelli was a writer and gardian
who passionately advocated for all elements
of traditional Camargue culture. Today’s
gardians often emulate his natty style of dress,
donning white indienne shirts patterned
with colourful flowers, black velour jackets
and wide-brimmed felt hats. Baroncelli’s
promotion of the gardian lifestyle and the
Course Camarguaise — and, of course, his
creation of the modern Pèlerinage Gitan — has
been hugely influential in shaping the modern
image of the Camargue.
While we’re looking at the bulls, a battered
silver Citroën pulls up and out steps a wiry,
silver-haired man in a dark floral shirt and
blue jeans, his gait somewhat bandy-legged
from decades in the saddle. His keen blue
eyes dissect me icily from deep within a
face of rawhide leather, tanned and grooved
from a life spent beneath the searing
Camargue sun. Laure introduces him as
Christian Culetto, explaining that he often
stops here to look at the bulls and to tell
passers-by his story.
He was a razeteur, he tells me, for 13 years,
from 1979 to 1992. “I was gored three times,”
he adds insouciantly, pointing in turn at his
knee, his calf and his behind. I wince. Does he
feel the bulls are his enemies? “Au contraire,”
he replies. “I love them. They’re my friends.
I come here to look at them every day.”
Christian explains that the sport’s most
famous razeteurs become local celebrities,
but they’re always secondary to the real stars
of the show: the bulls.
Legend of the Camargue
“He enchants the bull so that they want to
follow him until the end, until finally he’s
enticed to jump up onto the fence of the arena,
and the music of Carmen blares out.” It sounds
like a dance, I say. Is it sport, or art? Christian
scoffs. “People here aren’t interested in art,”
he says. “Passion — that’s the word which best
describes it.”
Art may not be preeminent among the
thoughts of razeteurs such as Christian, but
it shaped the life and legend of one of the
Camargue’s most famous inhabitants, Vincent
van Gogh. Today, Arles — with its 50,000
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
113
FR ANCE
Left: A painter capturing a scene on the
Rhône at Arles
FONDATION VINCENT
VAN GOGH ARLES
PARIS
ROMAN THEATRE
OF ARLES
Arles
FRANCE
MAS SAINT GERMAIN
CRIN BLANC
ône
Rh
ORNITHOLOGICAL PARK
OF PONT DE GAU
Parc Naturel
Régional de
Camargue
Saintes-Maries
-de-la-Mer
5 miles
M e d i t e r r a n e a n
S e a
GETTING THERE & AROUND
There are daily flights to Marseille from
London with British Airways, and from
Edinburgh and Manchester with Ryanair.
Regular trains link to Arles, from where
there are daily buses to Saintes-Mariesde-la-Mer. ba.com ryanair.com
Average flight time: 2h.
Eurostar also connects to Marseille
from the UK via Paris. eurostar.com
Average train time: 7h.
For most places between Arles and
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, you’ll need
a car. Europcar, Avis and Sixt all have
offices at Marseille airport.
europcar.com avis.com sixt.com
WHEN TO GO
The Camargue is humid but never
11 4
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
the work, I’m struck by the how the painting’s
sense of peace contrasts so starkly with its
violent origins.
Van Gogh’s legacy — along with many of
his works — is showcased at the Fondation
Vincent van Gogh Arles, a modern confection
of steel and glass built around a 15th-century
mansion. A short walk away sits the even more
striking Luma Arles, a contemporary arts
centre housed in a tower that rises above the
town like a pile of crumpled tin foil. They’re
a sharp contrast to Arles’ Roman buildings,
which date from as far back as the first century
BCE. François leads me through the ancient
theatre, where modern stage and lighting rigs
sit among millennia-old columns. Concerts
are still held here in the summer, he says. In
the neighbouring amphitheatre, beams of
light break the darkness as we walk through
the concourse. “This wasn’t just any
Roman city,” François explains. “Emperor
Constantine actually lived here at times in
the fourth century, once Rome had become
too dangerous.”
It’s easy to see why he found refuge in
this part of the world. The Camargue is
many things — a place of riotous festivity,
religious fervour, majestic wildlife and eerily
atmospheric landscapes — but at every turn it
feels like nowhere else, a world apart between
the Rhône and the Mediterranean Sea.
fiercely hot, with August average highs
of 27C. Mosquitoes are prevalent in
summer. Spring is lovely, with average
highs of 23C in May. Most tourism
activity shuts down in winter.
WHERE TO STAY
Hôtel du Pont Blanc, Saintes-Mariesde-la-Mer. Doubles from €81 (£70).
hoteldupontblanc.fr
Hôtel du Musée, Arles. Doubles from
€95 (£82). hoteldumusee.net
MORE INFO
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer Tourism.
saintesmaries.com/en
Mas Saint Germain.
massaintgermain.com
Crin Blanc. promenadecrinblanc.fr
HOW TO DO IT
Titan Travel has a seven-day group
tour of the Camargue, including
international flights, activities and
accommodation on a canal barge
sleeping up to 20 for £1,995 per person.
Excursions include a tour of Arles, trips
to see the region’s horses and bulls,
and a visit to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer,
plus birdwatching in the Camargue.
titantravel.co.uk
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
inhabitants — claims the modest title of
‘capital of the Camargue’ and is the gateway
to the region for many travellers. It’s rather
grander than Saintes-Maries, with impressive
Roman ruins and Romanesque churches
looming above its medieval streets.
Van Gogh lived in Arles for just a year, but it
was here he developed the unique painting
style that would eventually make him a
legend. The city is just a 25-minute drive from
the Mas Saint Germain farm, and soon I’m
heading out on a walking art tour with guide
François Carre. We meet beside a bronze
bust of Van Gogh in Jardin d’Été, a serene
public park in central Arles. Mounted in a
stone block, the artist’s face bears a suitably
tortured expression.
“Van Gogh came to Arles in 1888,” says
François. “He was a machine — he produced
100 paintings in 15 months here.” Our tour
is punctuated with stops at illustrated
information boards marking spots he once
painted, including the river harbour and the
Roman forum, where van Gogh produced the
first of his Starry Night paintings, and a serene
colonnaded garden — depicted in his work
Hospital in Arles — where he was sent after
cutting off an ear following an argument with
his friend Paul Gauguin.
Standing in that very garden, in front of
an information board that displays a copy of
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PA I D C O N T E N T F O R S W I T Z E R L A N D T O U R I S M
SWITZERLAND
A weekend to savour
in Lake Lucerne
Spend a winter weekend exploring farm shops, wine cellars and lakeside
fine-dining restaurants in Switzerland’s most picturesque region. Words: Anna Hart
|
IMAGES: GETTY; GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL
W
ith a medieval old town set
against a deep-blue lake and
ringed by towering peaks,
Lucerne is as striking a city as
you’ll find in Switzerland. Historically, this
has been known as a place of art and music,
but today, I’m visiting the city for a distinctly
different — and arguably more delicious
— reason. Lucerne is an ideal base from which
to explore one of Switzerland’s fastest growing
culinary destinations — the Weggis Vitznau
Rigi region. This small yet geographically
diverse area is swiftly earning its culinary
stripes, with six Michelin stars, 134 Gault
Millau points and eight Swiss Bakery Trophy
medals to its name. To best experience it, base
yourself in Lucerne and spend a day or two
exploring the region’s more far-flung reaches,
easily accessible by plane, train or boat.
The journey begins at Lucerne’s most
celebrated hotel, the Grand Hotel National.
This lavish lakefront institution opened
in 1870 and was once managed by famed
hotelier César Ritz, whose lavish legacy lives
on in the hotel’s regal interiors, large indoor
pool and star-studded guestbook. Its new
restaurant, Brasserie Juliette, is a hotspot
for Lucerne’s younger generation, who
come for creative cocktails and a sharing
concept menu of elevated European classics
— including an exemplary steak tartare
— accompanied by twinkling piano keys.
The next morning, it’s a short train east
around the lake to the charming hillside
resort of Weggis. Here, my first stop is organic
orchard and distillery Haldihof. The affable
owner, Bruno Muff, looks as though he’s
been in this historic farmhouse for decades,
PA I D C O N T E N T F O R S W I T Z E R L A N D T O U R I S M
shearing friendly alpacas, distilling fine fig
liqueurs and greeting ramblers who stumble
in off the Waldstätterweg hiking trail.
In fact, Bruno is a former tech hotshot,
having recently sold his company to Google
and relocated to this ancient orchard with
his wife Rebecca. In winter, it’s dusted with
snow, making the warming nips of pear
brandy, apple gin and cider we’re served
all the more welcome. Bruno’s passion for
his produce is clear — with every sip, he
details his farming process, from the lack
of pesticides and artificial fertilisers to how
20% of the farm is kept completely wild to
encourage natural ecosystems.
It’s not what you’d expect from an
ex-tech guru, perhaps, but I soon learn not to
make assumptions on appearances here. My
next stop, Kräuterhotel Edelweiss — which
dates back to 1906 — looks like a standard
alpine chalet. But it soon becomes clear
that beneath this rustic exterior lies a hotel
and acclaimed mountain restaurant with a
radical philosophy, linking the quality of its
cuisine to the happiness of its chefs.
Owners Gabriella Egger Vörös and Gregor
Vörös greet us cheerfully with a bottle of their
naturally fermented elderflower wine. “We
took the hotel over from Gabriella’s family
several years ago. At first, we ran it as previous
generations had done, but we soon realised
that didn’t work for us,” Gregor explains.
“Now, all our chefs work one day in the
garden and we close the hotel entirely from
Monday through to Wednesday. This gives us
all a better quality of life.”
This pioneering spirit seems to have paid
off. The hotel’s restaurant, Regina Montium,
received a Michelin star in 2022 and is fully
booked most weekends. I settle in for a
smorgasbord of home-cured meats, cheese,
fish and vegetables, followed by organic beef
stew with polenta and a rich plum crumble.
Stomach satisfied, it’s time to take the
funicular down to the town of Vitznau, where
a tasting tour of the vast wine cellar at the Park
Hotel — housing around 35,000 bottles — is
an ideal way to unwind between meals.
Finally, it’s on to our accommodation for
our second and final night at the dramatic
Hotel Vitznauerhof. Here, dinner is served
at two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Sens.
This lakefront spot offers a true education
in the area’s cuisine, with dishes combining
the local produce of Lake Lucerne with global
flavours and cooking styles. Every course is
a surprise, a show, an education: the perfect
end to a gastronomic journey.
From left: Lucerne’s Jesuit Church sits in the shadow of
Mount Pilatus; sharing plates at Brasserie Juliette
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Fly with SWISS to Zurich or Basel and take
the train to Lucerne (1h). Alternatively, travel
by train from London, changing in Paris and
either Basel or Zurich. Stay at the Grand Hotel
T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
11 8
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
O N TH E TEKE PEN I N S U L A O F SO U TH ERN T U RKE Y, A 470 -MI LE N E T WO RK O F
H I KI N G TR AI L S CO N N EC T S AN C I ENT C ITI E S O F TH E LYC IAN C IVI LI SATI O N
WITH A D R A M ATI C MED ITERR AN E AN COA S TLI N E. TH E LYC IAN WAY WA S
TH E CO U NTRY ’ S FI R S T LO N G - D I S TAN C E TREK , WH ERE PI N E- COVERED
MO U NTAI N S AB OVE TH E T U RQ U O I S E WATER S PROVI D E A SC EN I C BAC KD RO P
TO TH E MYS TERI O U S RO C K- H E WN TOMB S LEF T BY TH E LYC IAN PEO PLE
WORDS & PHOTOGR APHS: YULIA DENISYUK
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
119
TURKEY
In southern Turkey, a series of marked
long-distance foot trails runs between the
Mediterranean coast and the westernmost
ranges of the Taurus Mountains. This
is the Lycian Way, an enchanting hike
through the ancient city ruins of the
Lycian, Greek and Roman civilisations,
offering a window onto day-to-day rural
scenes in this region. Near Olympos,
one of the most important Lycian cities,
Leila Karataş (above) has been making
oven-baked gözleme, a traditional
Turkish flatbread stuffed with spinach
and crumbly local cheese, for the past 30
years. On the trail, the view shifts from
quaint mountain villages, rest stops (left)
and cedar and pine forests to hiddenaway beaches such as the emerald bays
along Cape Gelidonya (right) and at the
vertiginous Butterfly Valley near Faralya.
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
TURKEY
Conceived by British amateur historian
Kate Clow in the late 1990s, the hike
begins by Ölüdeniz Lagoon in Muğla
province and winds east to the resort city
of Antalya. The modern trail is built upon
routes used by the Lycians, a civilisation
that was first recorded around 1400 BCE.
At its height, it thrived under the Lycian
League, an early democratic system.
Its traders used the footpaths to carry
myrrh, olive oil and wine to the coast
for export. On the beach today, hikers
are more likely to encounter merchants
selling sesame-coated simit bread (left).
Lycians were known for their defiance;
according to one legend, the citizens
of Xanthos, a major Lycian city, chose
suicide over defeat by the Persians.
“Because there are few written records,”
says independent guide Pelin Öner (above,
in Xanthos), “our Lycian knowledge is full
of legends and assumptions.”
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
12 3
TURKEY
Most of what we know about the Lycians
today comes from the many freestanding
sarcophagi, or stone tombs, scattered
across the trails, with inscriptions and
effigies providing some clues to this
civilisation’s culture. Halfway through
the journey, the route runs via Kaş, a
modern town built upon the ancient
Lycian port of Antiphellos. Here, the
Lion Tomb is a popular fourth century
BCE structure standing on the corner
of a boutique-laden street. A short walk
away at Kaş harbour (right), residents
play backgammon on moored boats and
sip glasses of Turkish tea. On the nearby
island of Kekova (above), another Lycian
settlement called Dolichiste is a stunning
site of partially submerged buildings,
pathways and tombs, their ancient stone
iridescent in the bay’s aquamarine waters.
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
TURKEY
Along the Lycian Way, wild flowers
bloom and scents of sage and thyme
permeate the air. Roosters crow in the
mountainside villages and shepherds
herd sheep and goats back to their folds
at dusk. The deep blue and turquoise
Mediterranean waters glisten at every
turn of the trail, and the lofty pine trees
sway in the breeze. Beyond its natural
beauty, the Lycian Way stands out for its
access to both ancient heritage and the
modern life of this Mediterranean region.
From the beachside ruins of Patara and
a port used since ancient times at Kaş
(above), to guesthouses with millenniaold olive presses in the village of Sidyma,
and rustic accommodation surrounded
by orange and lemon groves at Finike
(left), a slow hike along the Lycian Way
is an opportunity to experience the full
charm of coastal southern Turkey.
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Svalbard, Norway
can places
change us?
OVER 900 DESTINATIONS TO EXPLORE.
Visit Silversea.com/curious, call +44 (0)207 340 0709
or contact your travel agent.
TO THE CURIOUS
|
P A I D C O N T E N T F O R S A R AWA K T O U R I S M
MALAYSIA
A journey to the great
caves of Sarawak
A trek to the ancient caves of Niah National Park provides travellers
with Neolithic burial sites, endemic wildlife and iron-age cave paintings.
Words: Adrian Phillips. Photographs: Richard James Taylor
T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
|
P A I D C O N T E N T F O R S A R AWA K T O U R I S M
T
Clockwise from left: Exploring
the entrance to the Great Cave in
Niah National Park; the gray tree
skink lizard is a common sight in
the Niah National Park
hick
with
lush,
primary
rainforest,
Sarawak’s
Niah
National Park covers just under
12 square miles. The park is
also home to imposing limestone rock
formations, meandering rivers and
dramatic cliffs, but that’s not unusual
for this region in Borneo. What makes
Niah National Park extra special — a
jewel in Malaysia’s crown — is its caves,
which include not only one of the biggest
cave entrances in the world, but some
important archaeological sites. Here,
fragments of skull were found dating
back 65,000 years, making them the
earliest human remains ever discovered
in Southeast Asia.
The
intrepid
trek
through
Niah
National Park also takes you on a
journey of discovery. From conquering
wide cliff shelves beneath canopies of
limestone to navigating dense rainforest, the
route through the park itself is a memorable
one. You’ll encounter locals selling handwoven baskets and discover ancient cave
paintings of stick figures and wooden boat
coffins. Visit the caves at dusk and you will
see thousands of swifts returning to roost.
The droppings from the birds have been used
as natural fertilizer since the early 1800s.
For all the wonder of their ancient past,
the caves are fascinating too for their more
recent history and the role they play in the
lives of everyday people from the region.
So, explore the rainforests of Niah
National Park and journey to an ancient
world with this five-stage guide to exploring
the great caves of Sarawak.
|
P A I D C O N T E N T F O R S A R AWA K T O U R I S M
STAG E 1
CROSSING THE RIVER
A two-hour drive from Miri, the Niah
National Park HQ is a short walk to a
jetty where the adventure begins. Here, a
motorboat will ferry you across the Niah
River to the trailhead. On the riverbank
stands a ramshackle wooden building that
was once used to store guano collected from
the caves. Next to the wooden building is
the Niah Archaeology Museum, where you
will learn the full background to the trade.
The earliest inhabitants of this region were
members of the Penan tribe, and it is they
who have the traditional rights to harvest
the guano. In the 1980s, up to nine tonnes of
guano was collected each year, but today the
business is far smaller — just 10 people are
still licensed to operate in the caves.
STAG E 2
ON THE TRAIL
From the Niah Archaeology Museum,
a wooden boardwalk takes you into the
rainforest on the 1.7-mile route to the first
cave. This trek is very much part of the
experience, passing through dense forest
where sour rotang fruits hang like orange
coconuts and the red trunks of kempas
trees stretch upwards and out of sight.
Sections of cliff — part of the northern edge
of Mount Subis — loom suddenly through
gaps in the foliage, sometimes smoothed
by a former river or pitted and sculpted by
an ancient ocean. Elsewhere, islands of
limestone appear, looking like abandoned
pagan temples, strangled by creepers as
thick as a leg. All around are the whoops
and chirps of birds and the sibilant, electric
buzz of cicadas. It’s as though the rainforest
is creating an atmosphere for your arrival at
the caves.
At the end of this stage, you’ll be greeted
by some locals selling baskets, keyrings and
drinks from little tables. The boardwalk forks
here — the left fork leading to a longhouse
where food can be arranged and the right
fork continuing to the Traders’ Cave.
STAG E 3
TRADERS’ CAVE
A few minutes further along, the trail leads
to a wide cliff shelf beneath a huge
overhanging canopy of limestone spiked
with stalactites. This is the Traders’ Cave,
where for centuries those involved in
the buying and selling of edible birds’
nests would base themselves during the
harvesting months. These traders lived in
roofless huts and the skeletal frames of these
basic dwellings — which were used until the
1970s — are still ranged along the cliffside.
The small swiftlet birds have a pair of
salivary glands which produces a sticky
secretion that they use to attach their
nests to cave roofs and walls. It is this ‘nest
cement’ that would be used to flavour the
birds’ nest soup. The process of gathering
nests is dangerous and takes real courage.
The roof of the Great Cave can reach up to
200ft, and licensed collectors (tukang julok)
get there by climbing poles called penyulok
made from pieces of bamboo lashed together
with split rattan. One man scrapes the nests
away and another collects them from the
floor in sacks.
Clockwise from left: Looking for
endemic wildlife in Niah National
Park; human figures drawn on
the cave walls by prehistoric
inhabitants can be found in the
Painted Cave (Gua Kain Hitam); at
midday the sun’s rays penetrate
directly into the Moon Cave,
lighting up the interior
|
P A I D C O N T E N T F O R S A R AWA K T O U R I S M
STAG E 4
THE GREAT CAVE
Another 200 metres on, you’ll be met by the
big daddy of the cave system — the Great Cave.
The cave’s West Mouth entrance is among
the largest on earth, with stalactites and
creepers that hang like teeth. The cave was
first scientifically explored in 1880, but the
main archaeological excavations were led by
Tom and Barbara Harrisson in the 1950s and
1960s. During a dig they discovered evidence
of pre-Neolithic habitation including bone
tools in an area near the cave mouth, and a
Neolithic burial place further inside. The
best-known find was the Deep Skull — pieces
of the cranium of a 15- to 17-year-old girl that
could date back 65,000 years.
There’s an almost mystical atmosphere
here as limestone stalagmites rise like
statues. One area is called the Moon Cave
because, in early afternoon, when the sun is
at its height, a shaft of light streams through
a hole in the roof like a silver moonbeam.
Wooden boards and steps take you
through the cave. It’s worth having good
footwear because the boards are slippery
with guano, and you’ll need a torch too for
the darker parts.
STAG E 5
PAINTED CAVE
After 30 minutes you’ll emerge through the
Gan Kira exit into sunlight and rainforest
once more. It’s a walk of roughly 450 yards
to the final stop on your tour. The Painted
Cave is smaller than the Great Cave, but it
is a veritable treasure trove of archaeology.
It must have been quite a moment when
Barbara Harrisson set eyes on its 160ft
stretch of wall decorated with more than
100 images of horned animals, geometrical
swirls and boats containing stick figures,
all drawn with red plant dye. The boats are
thought to represent a voyage to the afterlife,
and a corner of the cave contains a series of
wooden boat coffins that have been carbondated to between 2,300BC and 1,045BC.
Remarkably, these artefacts are protected
by nothing more than a simple wire fence.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
There are regular flights to Kuching
from Heathrow via Singapore,
Kuala Lumpur or Brunei. For more
information, visit sarawaktourism.com
The Great Ocean Road is one of
Australia’s most scenic routes
132
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
The Big Trip
Australia by
campervan
IMAGE: GETTY
TH E O PEN ROAD O FFER S B O U N D LE S S O PP O RT U N ITI E S FO R
ADVENT U RE. FROM TH E WI LD S E A C LI FFS AN D R AI N FO RE S T S
O F TH E SO U TH E A S T TO TH E S U RFI N G S P OT S AN D VI N E YARD S
O F TH E WE S T COA S T, S EE AU S TR ALIA AT YO U R OWN PAC E
WO RD S: C H RI S TA L ARWO O D
As road trip destinations go, there are few
better places than Australia. Nature seems to
flow in through the windows in eucalyptusscented gusts as you drive, while the wonders
of the great red continent unfurl beyond
the windscreen.
Koalas munch on gum leaves in the tall
trees, while kangaroos bound carefree along
the roadside. Come the evening, chirruping
cicadas and croaking frogs surround you.
In the morning, the birds seem to serenade
the returning sun, with the fluting notes of
magpies and the mischievous cackles
of kookaburras.
A campervan gives you the freedom to
change your route and stop whenever and
wherever you wish — at every farmers’ market,
cellar door, viewpoint and watering hole.
Along the country’s southern coast, you can
trace the curves of sheer cliffs beside sapphire
waters, explore dynamic cities and learn
about First Australian cultures that stretch
back over 50,000 years. To the west, one of
the world’s remotest cities is the first step to
tasting fine local dishes and world-leading
wines, and to meeting one of the continent’s
most charismatic ambassadors: the smiley
marsupial known as the quokka.
When it’s time to settle down for the night,
there are abundant campsites, holiday parks
and national parks. Immerse yourself fully
in some of the country’s most beautiful
landscapes while you rest. Choose to rise
early, and your footprints can be the day’s first
on white sand beaches. But in a campervan,
there’s no schedule to keep, and you can sleep
in if you wish. Ahead lies the prospect of new
adventures and the freedom of the open road.
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
13 3
I T I N E R A RY O N E
1. Melbourne
2. Torquay
3. Lorne
4. Great Otway National Park
5. The Twelve Apostles
6. Coonawarra
7. Adelaide
I T I N E R A RY T WO
1. Perth
2. Margaret River
3. William Bay National Park
4. Bremer Bay
5. Esperance
13 4
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
AU S T R A L I A
The Melbourne skyline over
the Domain Parklands
ITI N E R A RY O N E MELBOURNE TO ADEL AIDE
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES. ILLUSTRATION: CHRISTINE RÖSCH
Start: Melbourne • Finish: Adelaide • Distance: 618 miles • Time: 8 to 10 days
Some of Australia’s most extraordinary
scenery lies along its southeast coast, from
vertiginous sea cliffs to golden beaches.
The best place to start is Melbourne, where
avant-garde art and eye-popping architecture
meet a devoted coffee culture. Then head
around 80 minutes west to Torquay, gateway
to fabled scenic route the Great Ocean Road.
This remarkable feat of engineering
stretches 150 miles west along Victoria’s
coastal fringes, as far as the town of
Allansford. White-knuckled, it clings to
limestone cliffs ribboned with foamy surf.
Along the way, the road curves through
surfer towns known for produce such as
southern rock lobsters. It swoops inland,
into the dense rainforest of the Great Otway
National Park, then out past the Twelve
Apostles rock formation that looms offshore.
Beyond lies the Limestone Coast, where
an intriguing network of caves and the
Coonawarra wine country await.
HIGHLIGHTS
2 . TO RQ UAY
It may seem like any other beach town, with
laid-back brunch spots and a barefoot culture,
but Torquay is a Goliath in the surfing world.
It draws devotees in search of the perfect wave
and, if you’re a beginner, it’s an ideal place to
clamber onto a board. torquaysurf.com.au
3 . LO R N E
Arrive hungry in Lorne, a beachside hamlet
known for creative local dishes. Don’t miss
the Cantonese-inspired Australian dumplings
— known as ‘dim sims’, stuffed with pork and
cabbage — at Little Picket. You can play lawn
bowls while you wait. littlepicket.com.au
4 . G R E AT OT WAY N AT I O N A L PA R K
The Great Ocean Road is at its wildest as it
winds through this national park, full of
rugged beach cliffs, undulating mountains
and rainforests with ferns the size of houses.
Park up to wander forest trails under a canopy
of eucalyptuses, discover the waterfalls, and
stay till dusk to spot elusive platypuses.
parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks
1. MELBOURNE
The Manhattan-like skyline is deceptive:
beneath are Victorian train stations. This is
Australia’s cultural heart, with Federation
Square and adjacent lanes acting as galleries
for street art. Elsewhere, you’ll discover
modern masterpieces in the National Gallery
and First Nations sculptures along the Yarra
River. visitmelbourne.com
6 . C O O N AWA R R A
An hour’s drive from the coast, just over
the border into South Australia, lies the
Coonawarra wine region. Thanks to its cool
climate and unique red soil, this region
produces some of the country’s most
exceptional wines, from a rich, heady Cabernet
Sauvignon to a fruity, peppery Shiraz. Try
the cellar doors at the rustic Brand’s Laira
(brandslaira.com) or Hollick’s (hollick.com).
7. A D E L A I D E
South Australia’s capital Adelaide was once
known as the city of churches, but it’s since
become more famous for its music scene.
Discover dozens of live venues across the
area, from old-school pubs showcasing upand-coming bands, to tucked-away rooftop
bars, like the Nineteen Ten, for smooth jazz.
southaustralia.com/destinations/adelaide
H OW T O D O I T: Fly to Melbourne and back from
Adelaide with Qantas via Perth, Malaysia Airlines
via Kuala Lumpur or Etihad via Abu Dhabi. qantas.
com malaysiaairlines.com etihad.com Apollo offers
one-way campervan rentals. apollocamper.com. More
5 . T H E T W E LV E A P O S T L E S
These karst stacks, sculpted by thrashing
seas, were named the Twelve Apostles in the
1920s to provoke a sense of biblical wonder,
yet only eight formations rise from the surf.
Time your stop for sunset, when the light takes
on a soft pink glow. australia.com/en/places/
melbourne-and-surrounds
information: visitvictoria.com southaustralia.com
W H O C A N H E L P : Trailfinders offers an 11-day
Melbourne to Adelaide motorhome trip along the
Great Ocean Road from £1,750 per person. Based on
two sharing, including flights from London, eight days
in a motorhome and hotel accommodation for the
remaining nights. trailfinders.com
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135
AU S T R A L I A
ITI N E R A RY T WO WESTERN AUSTR ALIA
Start: Perth • Finish: Esperance • Distance: 695 miles • Time: 6 to 7 days
HIGHLIGHTS
1 . P E RT H
Tucked into the cobalt-blue curves of the
Swan River, Perth is one of the world’s most
isolated urban centres, more than 1,300 miles
from the nearest comparably populated city
— Adelaide. Gleaming high rises overlook lush
gardens, where locals laze on the grass and
cook elaborate feasts on public barbecues.
Explore the city from up in a fragrant canopy
of eucalyptuses on the Botanic Garden’s
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
treetop walk, or board a ferry to nearby
Wadjemup (Rottnest), where you can swim in
aquamarine waters and observe its quokkas,
a small and inquisitive marsupial found only
in the southwest corner of Australia.
visitperth.com rottnestisland.com
2 . M A RG A R E T R I V E R
Three hours south of Perth is Margaret
River, a location synonymous with surfing
and wine. You can begin the day by heading
to a pristine beach to catch a wave, before
disappearing off among the vines. The region
is dotted with boutique wine estates — from
the original Margaret River vineyard at Vasse
Felix, to Howard Park’s ultra-modern cellar
door — producing deeply fruity Cabernet
Sauvignons and bright, citrusy Chardonnays.
margaretriver.com vassefelix.com.au
howardparkwines.com.au
3 . W I L L I A M B AY N AT I O N A L PA R K
Wind-smoothed granite boulders crowd the
shores at Elephant Rocks in William Bay
National Park. The adjacent Greens Pool
is a sheltered cove of turquoise water and
fine, white sand, and it’s just one of several
popular swimming spots. Wander along the
coastline or head into the forest to discover
the local giants: towering karri hardwood
trees and thick-trunked eucalyptuses known,
delightfully, as tingles.
exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au
4 . B R E M E R B AY
From January to April, orcas gather south
of Bremer Bay, 150 miles east of William Bay
National Park, to feast on squid. This makes
it one of the best places to see so-called killer
whales in the wild. Head onto the water with a
marine scientist guide, staying at a respectful
distance. whalewatchwesternaustralia.com
5. ESPER ANCE
Neither tricks of the light nor manmade
oddities, some of the lakes around Esperance
are the colour of bubblegum — owing to
their salt concentration. Most vivid is Lake
Hillier, on an island offshore best viewed by
air. Flights leave the town’s airport six times
a day. Esperance itself is home to beautiful
beaches, and borders Cape Le Grand National
Park, known for its beachcombing kangaroos.
visitesperance.com.au
H OW T O D O I T : Fly direct to Perth with Qantas.
qantas.com There are several campervan hire
companies there, including 4WD specialists Red
Sands Campers, which provides phone support and
24/7 roadside assistance. redsandscampers.com
For more information, visit westernaustralia.com
W H O C A N H E L P : Freedom Destinations has a 14-day
South West Adventure motorhome package from
£2,199 per person, based on two sharing. It includes
flights from London, 10 days in a motorhome and
hotel stays in Perth. freedomdestinations.co.uk
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ALAMY; GETTY
Picture an Australian road trip, and it’s likely
that iron-red landscapes fringed with white
sand beaches come to mind. Add swathes of
vineyards and forests of karri eucalyptuses
— which are among the world’s tallest trees
— and you have Western Australia.
Journeys here start in Perth, the shining
state capital and gateway to the island of
Wadjemup, previously known as Rottnest. To
the south is Margaret River, as renowned for
surf-friendly beaches as for world-class wine.
Reserves such as Walpole-Nornalup National
Park are full of gargantuan hardwood trees,
while William Bay boasts granite outcrops.
The furthest point of this route is easy to
identify: bubblegum-pink lakes dot Esperance.
This is the gateway to the Cape Le Grand
National Park and some of the state’s most
astonishing beaches, where kangaroos hop
and laze amid dunes of powdery white sand.
Q&A
Dale Tillbrook, bush
tucker guide and chef
W H Y I S T H I S A R E A S P E C I A L?
The southwest of Western
Australia is a biodiversity hotspot,
with more than 8,000 endemic
species. Wildflower season starts
in September each year, with
the rich, yellow hues of acacias
dominating the landscape. And as
we move from Djilba (first spring)
to Kambarang (second spring), the
land explodes with more colour.
The town of Esperance has a
wealth of beautiful beaches
Above from left: The vineyards
of Margaret River provide
respite after the rigours of
surfing; a campervan offers the
freedom to stop and explore
W H AT I S YO U R FAVO U R I T E
B U S H T U C K E R?
Wattleseed — the edible seed of
the yellow-flowering acacia tree
— has incredible nutrients and
a nutty, coffee-like flavour. And
quandongs are the most important
fruiting tree in my traditional
country, with tart, red fruits that
are high in vitamins C and E, folate,
iron and selenium. We look forward
to quandong-picking in late
August and September.
WHY SHOULD
V I S I TO R S TO W E S T E R N
AU S T R A L I A L E A R N A B O U T
I N D I G E N O U S S TO R I E S ?
It’s very important. We have a
story for everything, from the
features of the land to the rules
we live by. Our relationship to
the land and everything on it is
spiritual and grounding. Once
we were forbidden to speak
[our] language, but we need our
language to tell our stories, and
that enriches the experience for
everyone. When I share my stories
with travellers, I’m expanding our
sphere of influence in the world.
We are an ancient race and the
oldest continuous culture. I want
others to look at the world through
our eyes, and to respect and care
for the land as we do.
daletilbrookexperiences.com.au
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
13 7
AU S T R A L I A
EYEWITNESS
THE CA SSOWARY COA ST
A rooftop tent adds the comfort of a campervan to the manoeuvrability of a car — allowing travellers to head further
into the wild — and the rainforests of Queensland provide ample opportunities to explore. Words: Sarah Reid
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
wild stretch of coast, in the heart of the ancient Daintree
rainforest, is home to rare Australian wildlife, including
duck-billed platypuses, echidnas and tree kangaroos.
A car ferry across the crocodile-infested Daintree River
— the only way to reach Cape Tribulation from the south
— transports travellers into a dense tangle of fan palms
and giant butterflies. Where the road south of the river is
framed by vast, golden fields of sugar cane, here the route
is coloured in infinite shades of green.
On arrival, I traced the road that snakes up into the
tangle of greenery as far as the Mount Alexandra Lookout,
which offers views that swoop across the canopy to the
deep blues of the Great Barrier Reef. The air, thick and
warm, felt alive, as if the rainforest were breathing.
For many visitors to this special corner of Queensland,
that lofty lookout is the first stop in a fast-paced day trip
from Port Douglas or Cairns. But with my temporary
home securely strapped to the roof of my Subaru, I was
in no hurry to get going. I shifted into slow gear, pulling
over whenever a shady rainforest trail or palm-fringed
beach appealed. I scanned placid, turquoise creeks and
waterholes for lurking saltwater crocodiles, before jumping
in for a swim. The frenetic pace of everyday life seemed to
slow here, deep in the forest — a place where muscles can
relax and lungs can exhale.
At the jungle-shrouded Safari Lodge, one of several
campsites on Cape Tribulation, I was welcomed by a chorus
of frogs, rising steadily over the incessant drone of the
cicadas. As I stepped into the fading twilight to pop up the
tent, an indiscernible shape emerged from the shadows
beneath my car. A bandicoot? Then there was a screech
from the rainforest canopy. A fruit bat? After my cassowary
encounter, I was ready for anything.
Clockwise from top left:
The Daintree rainforest
is home to palms and
platypuses; the rare
cassowary can be seen
in northern Queensland;
Cape Tribulation is a
remote headland where
H OW T O D O I T: Fly from London to Cairns via Singapore with
Lieutenant James Cook’s
Singapore Airlines. For rooftop tent rental, try Britz, which has 4WDs
ship the Endeavour
with tents from A$286 (£147). singaporeair.com britz.com
struck a reef
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY
Its electric-blue feathered neck draped in a bright
raspberry-hued wattle, a beautiful southern cassowary
gives me a hard stare from a few metres away. I’m
momentarily mesmerised — then I spot the dagger-like
claws beneath its lustrous black plumage.
I’d pulled into a seafront pitch at Etty Bay Caravan
Park, south of Cairns on Queensland’s rainforest-fringed
Cassowary Coast, and, right away, the region had lived up
to its name. But after a few minutes, the bird thankfully
resumed pecking at the fallen fruits lining the shoreline, in
time with the thumping rhythm of the waves.
As a resident of New South Wales, I’d long itched to see
this far-flung stretch of coast, known for its wild swathes
of rainforest as well as its endangered, human-sized
namesakes. But, reluctant to trade my trusty Subaru
Forester for a campervan, I’d opted for the next best thing:
a rooftop tent.
The tent attaches to the rack of almost any vehicle,
morphing — with a smooth pop-up motion — into a
comfortable bed. In Australia, it’s a budget-friendly
alternative to the traditional campervan, and equally
popular for those not keen to take the wheel of a bulky
vehicle. Travellers can rent one as part of their car-hire
package, leaving plenty of room in the vehicle for baggage.
After a barbecue on the shore, I nodded off to the sounds
of the Pacific Ocean, a salty breeze washing in through
vents in the canvas.
The plan was to continue north along the coast. There
were tempting side trips along the way that I wasn’t able to
do without a 4WD, but my compact home-on-wheels was
generally more than up to the task, navigating backroads
and squeezing into tight pitches with ease. After a bit of
practice, I fell easily into the routine, and could pack down
the tent in less than 10 minutes.
I’d particularly looked forward to reaching Cape
Tribulation, the remote headland where Lieutenant James
Cook’s ship the Endeavour struck a reef in 1770. This
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139
We create transformational journeys
in Ecuador’s top destinations. Our iconic
boutique hotels are hotbeds for cultural
exchange and serve as an epicenter for
deep connections with the safekeepers of
ancestral knowledge, traditions and culture.
VISIT US
AU S T R A L I A
AU STR A LIA N W I LD LI FE
A SPOT TER’S GUIDE
Kangaroos
Kangaroos often bound across bushland, fields
and even outer suburban areas across the
country. They also have a habit of hopping in
front of cars, especially around dusk, so keep
a wary eye as you drive and prepare to brake if
one appears in the road.
Wombats
These podgy, whiskered marsupials look like a
cross between a badger and a chinchilla. They
can often be seen in the early evening, when
they emerge from their burrows to forage for
roots and grasses in wooded areas and along
grassy banks.
Koalas
The teddy-like, tree-climbing marsupials are
notoriously shy, but can be spotted by eagleeyed visitors. Check eucalyptus trees as you
drive, especially in areas marked with yellow
koala signs by the roadside, and schedule a
stop in koala hotspots such as Kennett River,
between Lorne and Apollo Bay on the Great
Ocean Road.
Echidnas
With sharp spines like a hedgehog but the long
nose and flicking tongue of an anteater, the
echidna can often be spotted as it scrabbles
for ants and termites in open woodland, on
grassland and by the roadside.
IMAGES: GETTY
Wallabies
Often confused with youthful kangaroos,
diminutive wallabies are usually seen in
grassland near the edge of dense forest. They
graze on young shoots and bound back into
the cover of trees if disturbed, so stay quiet
if you wish to observe them.
Kangaroos and koalas are
among the attractions on
an Australian road trip
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141
AU S T R A L I A
Larger campervans, often with
built-in kitchens and bathrooms,
are more comfortable
A practical guide to campervanning in Australia
Do I need a special driver’s licence?
If you’re over 18, you can generally use
your full UK licence to hire a campervan in
Australia. But check with your hire company
ahead of time, as requirements vary. If you
have a licence in a non-English language, you
must provide an International Driving Permit.
Can I drop off my van in a different place?
Most companies allow you to book one-way;
just make sure there’s a convenient drop-off
point at the end of your route. One-way rentals
usually incur an extra fee.
When’s the best time to go?
The Melbourne to Adelaide and Western
1 42
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Australia routes are driveable all year
round, but spring (October and November)
and autumn (March and April) are best for
sunshine with cooler climates. In summer,
temperatures on both the east and west sides
of Australia can reach the mid-40s. And check
school term schedules at australia.com to
avoid the holiday rushes.
Can I park anywhere overnight?
Rules on overnight stops for campervans are
strict, so always stay in designated rest areas,
campsites or national parks. To locate the best
spots to park — with power, fresh water and
bathroom and laundry facilities — try an app
like CamperMate, which shows available sites
on your route. campermate.com
Any tips for going off-road?
Moderate your speed and watch carefully
for obstacles such as rocks or deep ruts. If
the ground is very sandy, lowering your tyre
pressure can help with traction. Should you
become stuck, try reversing along your tracks
or digging carefully around the wheels to
remove obstructions. Call emergency services
on 000 if that doesn’t work.
How can I keep safe in remote areas?
Good preparation is vital. In many places,
hours can go by before you encounter another
person, and phone coverage can be patchy. Fill
up your freshwater tank at every stop, and plan
your petrol refills carefully (visit petrolspy.
com.au). Check tyres and coolant levels on
your campervan every 300 miles. And if you
break down in a remote area, stay with your
vehicle, as you will be much easier to find.
What about snakes and spiders?
Serious injuries from bites are rare. Shake out
shoes and bedding before use, and use a torch
at night to avoid surprises. Just in case, pick up
a specialist snakebite kit at a chemist if you’re
heading into the wild.
What should I take with me?
Campervan hire companies usually include
basics such as bedding and kitchen utensils
as standard, but you may need to purchase
additional packages for items such as camping
chairs and portable barbecues. Hire a reliable
navigation tool such as GPS, and consider
renting a satellite phone if you’re headed into
the outback, where the signal is patchy.
IMAGE: ALAMY
Which campervan should I choose?
Campervans range from compact models, for
two, to six-berth options with kitchens and
bathrooms. Consider how much room you
need and how comfortable you feel driving
a larger vehicle. If you’ll be off-roading in
remote areas, you need a 4WD variety. And
if you’re staying on rudimentary campsites,
such as in some national parks, you’ll be more
comfortable with built-in bathroom facilities.
A UNIQUE
VARIETY!
Visit us in hall 9
Variety is the name of the game with the Malibu Van!
Combine your dream van from four different model
classes, three worlds of style, eleven worlds of living
and a large number of options!
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P A I D C O N T E N T F O R L A N G K AW I D E V E L O P M E N T A U T H O R I T Y
LANGKAWI
Malaysia’s
paradise island
N
ature has been abundantly
kind to Langkawi. Adorning
the
cerulean
Andaman
Sea, 18 miles off northwest
Malaysia, this 99-island archipelago is
blanketed in rainforest, brimming with
exotic wildlife and home to picturesque
paddy fields and jungle-clad hills. Once
a haven for pirates, the largest island of
Pulau Langkawi (commonly referred to
as Langkawi) is now a sought-after
location for its wildlife adventures and
relaxing beachside stays.
WHY SHOULD YOU VISIT LANGKAWI?
This cluster of paradise islands is home to
a vast assortment of white-sand beaches
— Pantai Cenang on the west coast is
an idyllic spot on the main island, while
Tanjung Rhu on the northern tip is a quaint,
more secluded bay. It’s the sheer diversity of
landscapes, such as steep limestone cliffs,
labyrinthine caves, wild mangrove swamps
and jungle-tangled mountains, however,
that garnered the entire archipelago
UNESCO Global Geopark status in June
2007, making it the first geopark in Malaysia
and the whole of Southeast Asia.
Astonishing wildlife and plant species
inhabit all corners of the islands, including
226 species of birds and over 500 types of
butterflies. Travellers should keep their eyes
peeled for Langkawi’s fabulous ‘flying five’
— the red giant flying squirrel, the paradise
tree snake, the twin-spotted flying frog, the
flying lizard and the fascinating colugo, the
world’s only flying primate.
Langkawi is also known as the ‘Land
of Legends’, due to the myths attached to
various sites and monuments. Mahsuri
Museum, located at the southeastern tip
of the main island, is worth a visit for its
assortment of Malay arts and history, and
is home to the tomb of Mahsuri, a local
woman said to have cursed the island for
seven generations. As the legend goes, when
the curse lifted, Langkawi’s tourism began
to thrive.
WHAT ARE THE MAIN DRAWS?
Langkawi has four designated ‘geosites’
— protected areas that have distinct natural
wonders. The most striking is the Gunung
Machinchang mountain range, Langkawi’s
second-highest peak and geologically
the oldest mountain in Southeast Asia.
A steep cable-car, the Langkawi SkyCab,
whisks visitors up to the peak in ultramodern,
glass-bottomed
gondolas.
At the top, visitors can walk the 410ft-long
Sky Bridge, a majestic feat of engineering
whose curved footbridge is suspended
high above the jungle canopy. After
taking in the vistas of the surrounding
islands and ocean, the Langkawi Sky Trail
offers a series of hiking paths for varying
abilities to stroll down the mountain.
On the east side of Langkawi, 38sq miles
of colossal limestone cliffs, beaches and
caves make up the Kilim Geoforest Park.
Its meandering rivers and narrow channels
are best explored by boat, where travellers
can observe cheeky macaque monkeys,
IMAGES: GETTY
Just an hour’s flight from Kuala Lumpur, Langkawi feels blissfully
remote, with palm-swaying shores, towering mountain ranges
and lush rainforests teeming with wildlife. Words: Zoe McIntyre
|
scuttling tree crabs and white-bellied sea
eagles. Meanwhile, on the west side of
Langkawi, the Bio-geo Trail in Kubang
Badak gives a fascinating insight into the
island’s cultural history. Here, hikers can
delve into the region’s 500-million-year old
geology, rich mangrove habitat and 18th
century settlements.
Another popular excursion is to take
the 15-minute boat ride from Kuah Jetty,
Langkawi’s main ferry terminal, to Pulau
Dayang Bunting, the archipelago’s secondlargest island. Its name translates to ‘Isle of
the Pregnant Maiden’, as its shape resembles
an expectant mother, and, legend has it,
its freshwater lake has magical properties
to help women’s fertility and replenish
body and mind. After a refreshing dip,
be sure to explore the various other
wonders of Dayang Bunting Marble
Geoforest Park, including Gua Langsir
and Gua Kelawar, two remarkable limestone
caves, and the surrounding mangrove forest
which is accessible via a boardwalk.
P A I D C O N T E N T F O R L A N G K AW I D E V E L O P M E N T A U T H O R I T Y
WHERE SHOULD YOU EAT?
Countless stalls across Langkawi’s various
night markets are a great place to sample
the local fare, which is seafood-rich and
infused with unique herbs and spices. Try
the gulai panas, a fragrant, spicy curry,
or the kerabu bronok, a seafood salad with
an unusual marine creature, similar to a sea
cucumber, used as the main ingredient.
From left: Panoramic view of the Sky Bridge and
the Langkawi SkyCab cable cars on the Gunung
Machinchang mountain range; a brown-throated
sunbird in Langkawi’s rainforest
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Flights between London and Langkawi
WHO SHOULD VISIT?
Life is lived outdoors in Langkawi, making
it ideal for nature- and outdoor enthusiasts.
The island makes a great destination for
families, too, with its laid-back beachside
stays and its small size allows for easy travel
between attractions.
take around 16 hours and include one
stop via Kuala Lumpur or Singapore. Once
on the island, hire cars and taxis are the
best way to get around — the main roads
are well maintained for driving. Boat
operators are readily available and offer
tours to neighbouring islands. For more
information, visit naturallylangkawi.my
WHEN’S THE BEST TIME TO GO?
High season runs from November to April
when Langkawi enjoys clear skies and
perfect temperatures. Showers and storms
can be more frequent from May to August,
while September to October is rainy season.
T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F.
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
CITY LIFE
STOC KHOL M
The Swedish capital’s character has been shaped by water over the centuries
— and life on this scattering of islands continues to be dominated by it
WORDS: ALICIA MILLER
PHOTOGR APHS: SIMON BA JADA
The history of Stockholm is one of ebbs and
Stockholm is every bit as watery. A patchwork
flows, freezes and thaws, sunken ships and
of islands set on the edge of 75-mile-long
shifting locks. History, though, isn’t exactly
freshwater Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea,
at the forefront of my mind 20 minutes into
its landscape was shaped by the last Ice Age,
a morning kayak tour, when I’m frantically
when glaciers compressed soils to below
paddling against the frothy, destabilising
water levels. Over time, the terrain began to
wake dispatched by a passing city ferry.
re-emerge from the depths, forming the 14
“Always look both ways before crossing
the lake!” shouts our guide, Leon, as we
islands that now make up the city.
Leon, a guide for local tour operator
breathlessly reach one edge of the freshwater
Stockholm Adventures, leads paddling tours
expanse and pivot our kayaks to face the
between some of them. Over two hours, we
skyline. It’s an epic scene: the gilded crowns
cruise the leafy, sun-dappled channel between
topping City Hall; the mint-hued spire of the
Långholmen and Södermalm, past rows of
German Church; the imposing brick structure
polished wooden pleasure crafts, and skirt
of former brewery Münchenbryggeriet. All of
along the swan-dotted waterways between
it, in every direction, underlined by blue.
Kungsholmen and Norrmalm.
People talk about Venice and Amsterdam as
being defined by their canals, but the DNA of
Back on dry land, my city guide Gunilla
Kühner shows me around Stockholm’s historic
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S TO C K H O L M
Clockwise from top: Swedish shrimp
sandwich served at Malarpaviljongen;
crew of the Danish Royal Yacht
Dannebrog, docked in Stockholm;
diners at Under Kastanjen (Under the
Chestnut tree) cafe in Gamla Stan;
Oskar, of Stockholm Adventures
prepares a canoe for visitors at Klara Sjö
Previous pages: Gamla Stan with
central Stockholm behind it, as viewed
from Mariaberget in Södermalm
centre, Gamla Stan, which dates back to the
Middle Ages. Around us, colourful buildings
vie for space along cobblestone alleyways.
Here, in the 14th century, merchants would
trade local iron and copper with Hanseatic
League cities every summer, wrapping up
business before the harbour froze over and
ships were unable to sail in and out of the city.
“The Vikings were here much earlier,” says
Gunilla, pointing out an old runestone carved
by the famous Nordic seafarers and repurposed
by 16th-century builders into part of a wall.
She explains that the local Viking settlement
Birka, on the island of Björkö in Lake Mälaren,
was occupied for around 200 years until the
late 10th century — and its archaeological
remains are now part of a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. Over time, the Vikings travelled
further afield in shallow boats that allowed
them to navigate far-reaching waterways with
ease, eventually abandoning the settlement.
“Water was a connector for the Vikings, not a
divider,” Gunilla continues, ushering me from
the warren of streets to an outdoor harbourside
table for a coffee break. “At the time, it was
easier to hop in a boat and paddle than to trek
with supplies over land. Unlike today.”
Not that it was all plain sailing, of course.
Ancient mariners faced plenty of perils
crossing the waters around here, and both
the Baltic Sea and Stockholm’s harbour
are littered with shipwrecks. They provide
fascinating exploration for experienced divers
prepared to brave the cold, murky depths.
Looking out over ferries, shipping liners and
houseboats, with a cinnamon bun in hand,
I contemplate what undiscovered gems might
be lingering beneath the surface.
The cold, oxygen-starved, brackish harbour
water prevents wood-eating critters from
flourishing, meaning sunken ships can be left
exceptionally well preserved for centuries.
The most famous find here was the Vasa, a
spectacular Swedish warship that sunk on its
maiden voyage in 1628. Its remarkably intact
remains now stand in a dedicated museum on
the city’s Djurgården island. But there are other
treasures still in the water’s depths.
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
“We don’t actually have any wrecks here,”
says Mikael Dunker, communications manager
at the Vrak Museum of Wrecks, a five-minute
walk from the Vasa Museum. “We’re trying
to bring to life what’s still below the surface.”
This compact, digital-led space offers valuable
insight into the city’s seafloor. I pass through
a room highlighting renderings of the recently
located remains of the Åpplet — the Vasa’s
long-lost sister ship — and examine a timeline
of major sinkings in the Baltics up to the
present day. As I read the haunting details
of the 1994 MS Estonia disaster, in which 852
people perished when their ferry sank en route
from Tallinn, Estonia to Stockholm, I pause.
Despite what we may sometimes like to think,
we still hold little dominion over the sea.
Water world
Stockholm
archipelago is the
world’s largest,
comprising some
30,000 islands and
stretching 50 miles
into the Baltic Sea
INSIDER TIPS
Swedes love caffeine and are
A N E VO LV I N G C I T Y
famous for their fika (social coffee
Stockholm hums with summer-evening
energy. Making the most of the warmth,
I spend an hour walking west along
the waterfront, passing the columned
Nationalmuseum, along manicured
Kungsträdgården, over to City Hall. At
the water’s edge, there are historic barges
converted into floating hostels for travellers
and sightseeing boats pushing off from the
docks for sunset tours. Eventually, I hit a
lakeside park, where runners trot along
and trees cast shadows across pathways.
It’s dinner time, so I head to popular
waterside bar Mälarpaviljongen nearby. I
pass through its bloom-fragranced gardens
to a floating glass-encased drinking area,
filled with off-duty Swedes loosening their
proverbial ties over frosty beers. With the
lake waters as a backdrop, I settle in with a
räksmörgås (an open-faced sandwich topped
with hardboiled egg, mayo, lettuce and a heap
of tiny prawns).
My walk has shown Stockholm’s waterfront
is a landscape in flux. In any city, change is
part of the equation — but it’s particularly true
for those built on water. Even now, Stockholm’s
topography is still bouncing back from the Ice
Age’s glacial compression, making adaptation
a constant feature of life here. Its islands are
breaks). Decaf coffee and herbal
teas can be hard to come by in some
cafes, so consider packing your own
if you have a strong preference.
In winter, some waterways take
on a whole new character as they
become natural skating rinks.
If you’re interested in getting
involved, check with the locals
where it’s safe to go. Stockholm
Adventures rents out ice skating
equipment and also runs guided
tours. stockholmadventures.com
Ferry schedules can vary
depending on the time of year, with
the most frequent services typically
in the peak summer period of July
and early August. Check routes with
your hotel to ensure you can get
where you want, when you want.
Like elsewhere in Scandinavia,
salted liquorice is a local obsession.
Visit Lakritsroten to stock up
on edible souvenirs; its salted
liquorice and raspberry ice cream is
unmissable. lakritsroten.se
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149
Liquorice soft-serve ice
cream with lemon topping
at the Lakritsroten liquorice
shop in Gamla Stan
Clockwise from left: Helmets
at the entrance to the Viking
Museum on Djurgården;
neighbouring boat owners
chat on Skeppsholmen
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
S TO C K H O L M
rising out of the water at a rate of up to nine
millimetres a year — so around once a century,
the city locks, which manage the flow of water
from the lake into the harbour, are updated
to keep pace. The current project at Slussen,
the lock area connecting Gamla Stan with
fashionable, restaurant-filled Södermalm
island, is due to be completed in 2025.
The next day, surrounded by soaring cranes
and construction workers in Slussen, I pour
over the plan on public display in a small popup exhibition space. Gunilla had explained
the details to me the day before.“When the
locks were last done in the 1930s, it was to
make everything easy for cars,” she had said,
using a map to point out roundabouts and bus
parking lots occupying prime waterside real
estate. “But this time, we’re designing the area
for people.” When the locks around Slussen
are eventually finished, roads will be rerouted
from the city centre and the waterfront will be
open for large, pedestrianised walkways and
plazas. The district will also host a glittering
new Nobel Prize Museum, relocated from its
current spot on Gamla Stan. In many ways,
Stockholm will be transformed.
As the Swedish capital grows, there’s also
another new consideration: commuters. With
property prices high, many locals are relocating
to further-flung islands, either within the lake
or within the wider Stockholm archipelago, a
cluster of 30,000 islands stretching from east of
the city centre into the Baltic Sea. More people
moving between the city and its islands each
day means an increased demand for waterbased transport.
“I love that I can just sit back and get work
done on the way,” commuter Ulrika Lööf tells
me as we board the number 89 ferry outside the
City Hall that afternoon. She’s making her way
to her home island of Ekerö, about an hour’s
boat ride away, which she moved to almost
30 years ago. For a long time, before the ferry
service was launched, she had to travel by car,
bus and metro to work in downtown Stockholm.
There’s no question that this is the better
way to go. Sitting on the top deck, enjoying
the panoramic views, with sunshine on our
faces, we watch the city centre slip away and
the full expanse of Stockholm unveil itself.
I spot Mälarpaviljongen on one shore; on
another, I catch sight of a beach flanking the
green swathes of Långholmen island.
Stockholm’s first ferries were boats rowed
by roddarmadam (literally ‘rower madam’)
— pairs of local women who ran a kind of
water taxi system from the 15th century until
the early 20th century. And while commuting
has evolved since then, it’s still developing.
Ulrika’s 55-minute journey is set to drop to just
25 minutes when a new electric boat comes into
service. As I step off at the city outskirts and bid
her goodbye, Ulrika has one last insight for me.
“One other benefit of the ferry is that it’s always
on time,” she says. “No traffic!”
Despite their intensely rural nature, the
islands of the Stockholm archipelago are
considered an extension of the city, especially
in summer months. And there are endless
options to choose from. Just 20 minutes’ boat
ride from the city, Fjäderholmarna brims with
artists’ studios. On small, privately owned
Idöborg, an hour from the city, you can sample
yoga and sauna. And on Utö, a particularly
large and enchanting sweep of forest and beach
dotted with red clapboard cottages, you could
lose a whole week to the wilderness. I spend
one afternoon here touring the rejuvenated
wetlands, hiking through untouched forest,
eating in a grand inn and lazing on beaches
fringed by granite boulders. The crush of
Gamla Stan, just a couple of hours away, feels
incomprehensible in this untouched space.
Utö is charming, but it isn’t necessary to go
to the ends of the archipelago to find a serene
island. On my final evening, I take the ferry to
Skeppsholmen, a tiny isle in the city centre. It’s
green and sleepy apart from a few buildings,
including a former military barracks that’s now
a heritage hotel. As I walk the quiet, leaf-lined
circular path, the view across the harbour
reveals a highlights reel of Stockholm across
the ages: the timeless splendour of Gamla
Stan stands alongside bobbing fishing boats, a
castle fort and the rollercoasters of Gröna Lund,
Stockholm’s 19th-century amusement grounds.
There are couples dining al fresco at a waterside
restaurant and families sprawling on the grass.
And, sewing it all together, ever a constant, is
that glittering expanse of blue.
Q&A with Jacob
Bernander, education
and schools guide at
the Viking Museum
on Djurgården
WHY ARE THE VIKINGS
S T I L L R E L E VA N T ?
Viking culture influenced
countries across the
Baltic region. For the
Vikings, Stockholm was
a stop between the
continent and their nearby
settlement of Birka. Yet
stories of the Stockholm area
were still spread as far as
Finland, Russia and Ukraine.
W H AT ’ S YO U R
FAVO U R I T E I S L A N D ?
I love the archipelago for
the nature. Värmdö is close
to the city centre and
easy to visit. I like to take a
swim then fish for perch
— I fry it over a fire and serve
it with boiled potatoes
and sour cream sauce.
And, of course, with some
Swedish beers!
W H AT S I G H T S S H O U L D
E V E RYO N E V I S I T ?
If you’re interested in
Viking history, visit the
islands of Adelsö and
Birka, home to settlement
remains and outdoor
Viking museums. In the city,
everyone will visit Gamla
Stan and its main square,
Stortorget. It looks beautiful,
but in the 15th century this
was where many people
were executed. There’s a
lot of history to discover
in Stockholm.
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151
S TO C K H O L M
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Colour-coding
Yellow-painted
buildings in the
city centre usually
denote former
military use. For
example, sleek Hotel
Skeppsholmen, on
the island of the
same name, was
originally built as an
army barracks
14 HOURS IN
Stockholm
From left: Locals walk their
dog in the narrow streets of
Gamla Stan; morning fika with
cinnamon buns and coffee at
Skeppsbro Bageri, a bakery in
Stockholm’s Gamla Stan
8A M
1 2 PM
F I K A AT S K E P P S B RO B AG E R I
D I S C OV E R M A R I N E M U S E U M S
Fuel up with an early morning fika at
this simple waterside spot in Gamla Stan.
Order a sticky cinnamon bun or a spiced
cardamom bun, or both, then grab a table
outside to survey the scene of boats gliding
across the harbour. The bakery is a member
of the international organisation One
Percent for the Planet, with funds donated
to the Baltic Sea arm of the World Wildlife
Fund — so it’s breakfast with a purpose.
skeppsbrobageri.com
Take the ferry from Gamla Stan to Djurgården,
passing by 19th-century amusement park
Gröna Lund, then wander up to the Vasa
Museum to explore the preserved remains
of the famous wreck. Carry on to the Baltic
Sea Science Center, part of open-air museum
Skansen, where you can explore the marine
space connecting nine regional countries
and discover its environmental challenges.
The highlight is the series of aquariums that
host huge cod. vasamuseet.se skansen.se
1 0A M
2 PM
E X P LO R E G A M L A S TA N
L U N C H AT F R E YJA
If you only see one place when in Stockholm,
make sure it’s the historic old town. Let
yourself get lost exploring the atmospheric
cobbled streets and wandering between the
charming shops, squares and restaurants.
Look out for the Viking runestone set in a
building on the corner between Prästgatan and
Kåkbrinken — it’s older than the city itself and
is thought to have been transported here from
the surrounding area by medieval builders.
Make sure not to miss the baroque Swedish
Royal Palace at the island’s northern edge.
Take the ferry back to Gamla Stan, then
make the short walk south to Södermalm,
a trendy residential and shopping area.
Make a beeline for lauded restaurant Freyja,
on Hornsgatan, for a lunch of baked char
with grilled salad or herb-stuffed spring
chicken with fried broccoli, courtesy of
acclaimed Swedish chef Emma Shields.
Afterwards, if the sun is shining, finish up
your visit by sipping rhubarb iced tea cocktails
on the restaurant’s sister rooftop bar, Söder.
freyjasoder.se
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15 3
S TO C K H O L M
Left: Children swimming in the evening
light at Tanto Standbad on the island
Lake
Mälaren
STOCKHOLM
Ekerö
Fjäderholmarna
V
ä
Idöborg
r m
d ö
of Södermalm
Baltic Sea
20 miles
Utö
S T O C K H O L M
Mälarpaviljongen
Långholmen
½ mile
Skepps- Vasa Museum
holmen
Skansen
Vrak Museum of Wrecks
Djurgården
Gamla Skeppsbro
Stan
Gröna Lund
Bageri
Freyja
S luss e n
Södermalm
GETTING THERE & AROUND
British Airways, Ryanair, Scandinavian
Airlines and Norwegian offer direct
flights to Stockholm from a variety of
UK airports. ba.com ryanair.com
flysas.com norwegian.com
Average flight time: 2h30m.
Stockholm’s city centre is compact
in size, but due to the number of
waterways, it can take a while to travel
even short distances. It’s worth picking
up an SL travel card, which offers
unlimited access to the city’s buses,
metro and ferries in 24-hour, 72-hour or
seven-day periods. sl.se
WHEN TO GO
High summer is popular, with around
4 PM
8 PM
16 hours of daylight at this time and
E X P LO R E S Ö D E R M A L M
D R I N K S A N D D I N N E R AT
average temperatures of 20C in
Wander from the restaurant through leafy
Mariatorget park to explore the quirky shops
of SoFo district, the clutch of blocks south of
the major thoroughfare of Folkungagatan.
Here, funky independent boutiques specialise
in design, vintage items and homewares.
Shopping not your thing? Make your way
instead to the waterside Fotografiska Museum,
set in an imposing former customs house
overlooking the city harbour, which features
an ever-changing roster of photography
exhibitions. fotografiska.com
M Ä L A R PAV I L J O N G E N
August — but the city gets very busy.
Depending on your energy, you can go
for a 30-minute walk, hop on a bus or
take a taxi to reach Mälarpaviljongen, a
summertime waterside bar and restaurant on
Kungsholmen. The garden has a lovely wild
feel, but the prime seats are in the floating
pier-like bar area, overlooking passing boats.
The menu reads like a greatest hits list of
Swedish classics, from smoked shrimp with
lemon aioli to meatballs with potato puree
and lingonberries. malarpaviljongen.se
Stockholm is arguably at its best in late
6 PM
1 0 PM
Berns, central Stockholm. Doubles from
WA N D E R TO L Å N G H O L M E N
S E E T H E C I T Y BY N I G H T
1,700 SEK (£123), B&B. berns.se
Head west along the Södermalm waterfront,
taking in views of the city, then cross over to
verdant Långholmen, a sleepy island that’s
largely park space. The soaring buildings at its
centre once formed a prison — surely one of
the most scenic in the world — but now house
a hotel named after the island. Meander to the
small Långholmsbadet beach on the northern
side and, if it’s warm outside, join the locals
having a refreshing swim after a day’s work.
langholmen.com
Now that night has fallen, admire the skyline
of the city illuminated in the darkness.
East of Mälarpaviljongen, the golden threecrown spire of City Hall is brightly lit and
the National Museum’s broad stone facade
reflects off the water. Meander past the crowds
pouring from the harbourside Royal Swedish
Opera, inaugurated in 1782, then head back
to Gamla Stan for a final visit. The German
Church, in particular, is worth checking out
for its dramatic uplighting.
August and early September, when
it’s quieter but the weather is still
pleasant. Winter is dark, wet and often
very cold, with daytime temperatures
around 1C in December, but the festive
atmosphere is magical.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Skeppsholmen, Skeppsholmen.
Doubles from 2,202 SEK (£160), B&B.
hotelskeppsholmen.se
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
MORE INFO
visitstockholm.com
HOW TO DO IT
Discover the World has seven nights
at Hotel Rival, B&B, from £1,160
per person, including flights from
Heathrow, based on a May 2024
departure. discover-the-world.com
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
visitsweden.com
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PA I D C O N T E N T F O R P U G L I A P R O M OZ I O N E
ITALY
Journey
through Puglia
Italy’s southeastern region of Puglia has been seducing travellers for centuries.
Whether it’s by two wheels or two feet, here are six ways to journey through the
heel of Italy. Words: Daniel James Clarke
|
IMAGES: BIGUP EVENTI; GETTY; ALAMY
T
PA I D C O N T E N T F O R P U G L I A P R O M OZ I O N E
ravellers come from far and wide to
journey through Puglia and soak
up the region’s beauty and culture.
With an expansive collection of
biking trails and cammini (walking paths)
crisscrossing Puglia’s six provinces, the
region is rich in routes to discover.
full circuit takes in Torre dell’Orso beach,
with its cliffs and bath-like waters, and
charming seaside towns such as Leuca and
Gallipoli. This bike ride is the perfect route
for those seeking authentic local fuel, such
as pizza-dough puccia sandwiches, clay-pot
octopus and maritati pasta with ricotta.
CICLOVIA DELL’OFANTO
FOR BIKERS AFTER ADVENTURES
Puglia’s province of Barletta-Andria-Trani is
home to the Ciclovia dell’Ofanto. Covering
93 miles, the demanding trail descends
from the medieval hamlet of Rocchetta
Sant’Antonio in the Daunian Mountains
to the Ofanto River Valley, ending at the
Margherita di Savoia salt flats. You can
find respite at agriturismos (farm-style
accommodation) and vineyards producing
Nero di Troia, while the Canne della
Battaglia archaeological park — the site of a
famous battle between the Romans and the
Carthaginians — is well worth a visit.
VIA PEUCETA
FOR LEISURELY AMBLES
Leaving Bari’s coast behind, the Via Peuceta
presents history-seekers with mostly easy
strolls in the hinterland. From abundant
olive groves to the hauntingly barren
karst plateau of the Murgia sub-region,
the limelight is as much on the changing
landscapes as the province’s relics. Medieval
borghi (small villages), long-abandoned
trulli (dry stone huts with conical roofs), the
neolithic site of Norman and Balsignano
cathedrals whisper their stories, while
the cave dwellings of Sassi di Matera in
Basilicata await at the end of the long trail.
VIA MICAELICA
FOR HISTORY ON FOOT
Follow in the footsteps of countless
pilgrims across the five sections of
the Via Micaelica (Via Francigena
del Gargano). Weaving through the province
of Foggia, this 68-mile medium-difficulty
trail is an offshoot of the famed Via
Francigena, which once linked Rome to
Canterbury. Peppered with holy sites, the
journey from the hilltop town of Troia to the
Gargano Peninsula reaches its grand finale
at the sacred cave church of San Michele di
Monte Sant’Angelo.
VIA ELLENICA
FOR VIEWS & HERITAGE SITES
You’ll find two contrasting trails on the
Via Ellenica, thanks to its twin walking
route offering. The first half links Brindisi
to Martina Franca, stopping at some of
Puglia’s most beautiful towns, including
whitewashed Ostuni and Alberobello,
UNESCO-listed for its extensive cluster of
trulli. But it’s the second 93-mile stretch,
which crosses the province of Taranto, that
provides the impressive landscapes.
ANELLO DEL SALENTO
FOR COASTAL CYCLES
Savour all three of the Salento peninsula’s
provinces (Lecce and parts of Brindisi
and Taranto) on this easy but often roadsharing 210-mile circular route. Beginning
in the grand city of Lecce, beloved for its
limestone-crafted baroque architecture, the
CICLOVIA DELL’ACQUEDOTTO PUGLIESE
FOR A SERENE TWO-WHEEL TASTER
Cyclists seeking an easy-going route
will relish the Ciclovia dell’Acquedotto.
Connecting Cisternino to Ceglie Messapica
in Brindisi, this flat trail is anchored around
a 19th-century aqueduct, which was an
engineering marvel of its time. The 10-mile
route tracks the main canal’s service road
through the olive grove-coated Valle d’Itria.
Clockwise from left: cyclists ride past traditional trulli
houses in Alberobello, Puglia, Italy; Polignano a Mare,
Apulia, Italy; Puccia (a sandwich made of pizza dough)
PLAN YOUR TRIP
There are regular direct flights to Bari
and Brindisi from Stansted. Seasonal
Gatwick flights are also available.
Visit weareinpuglia.it #weareinPUGLIA
T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
CITY LIFE
BRIGHTON
Queen of pleasure parlours and bastion of beach raves, Britain’s
most progressive seaside resort combines coastal laissez-faire
with a commitment to creativity and sustainability
W O R D S : O R L A T H O M A S . P H O T O G R A P H S : M A R K PA R R E N TAY L O R
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Britain’s original destination for a dirty
weekend, Brighton has had a reputation for
licentiousness since the Prince Regent (later
King George IV) started bringing his mistress
Maria Fitzherbert here in the late 18th century.
The construction of his coastal party pad,
Brighton Pavilion, sealed the deal — slowly
transforming the sleepy fishing village of
Brighthelmston into a fashionable destination
for the Regency elite, as well as setting a
deliriously high standard for subsequent
society pleasure dens.
Cut to 2023 and the city has cleaned up its
act. It claims the UK’s only Green Party MP
and its highest density of vegan restaurants,
according to 2022 research by chefspencil.com.
To sanitise the city too thoroughly, however,
would be to rob it of its charm. This is a
place synonymous with Graham Greene’s
underworld novel Brighton Rock and, latterly,
best known for bonkers beachfront raves and
outrageous drag acts. An exemplar of the
counterculture, it prides itself on openness
and inclusivity — its wordplay nickname
‘B-right-on’ infinitely more apt than the
slightly sneering ‘London-on-Sea’.
Though a fraction of the capital’s size
— only qualifying for its city status when
bundled together with neighbouring Hove in
2001 — Brighton brims with big energy. “It’s
the beating heart of the south coast,” says
Michael Aurel, manager of one of its hottest
bars, the Plotting Parlour. “And absolutely
everyone is welcome here.”
Much of Brighton’s appeal is along its
extensive coastline — walk any section of
the promenade between Hove Lagoon and
Brighton Marina and you’ll pass grand
seafront hotels and kitsch candy floss stalls,
rollerbladers with rainbow hair and hen
parties wearing kiss-me-quick hats. Nearby
is The Lanes and its labyrinth of alleyways,
many made using a building material called
bungaroosh. Here, flint, pebbles and sand
are set within the walls, the influence of the
sea seeping even into streets set far back from
the water.
There are remnants of Brighton’s 19thcentury heyday everywhere — like the fireravaged ghost pier, slowly being reclaimed by
the water and the elegant arches of Madeira
Terrace, soon to be restored. Wander along
the beach and you’re equally likely to stumble
upon a vintage carousel, a sandy volleyball
court or pop-up sauna. An evening out might
start with a sustainable dinner menu and
end with a nightcap at a speakeasy — or
dancing til dawn at one of the LGBTQ+ bars
in Kemptown, traditionally Brighton’s gay
quarter. Whichever path you take, you’ll soon
discover that this is a city that takes having
fun seriously.
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
159
B R I G H TO N
Local pride
Long thought of as
England’s gay capital,
Brighton and Hove
now has the 2021
census data to prove
it — one in 10 of the
city’s adults identify as
lesbian, gay, bisexual
or of ‘other sexual
orientation’. Its annual
Pride event is also the
UK’s biggest
Clockwise from top left: Angela and Cat of
Brighton Food Tours; walking The Lanes,
part of which date to the 16th century; a
morning swim at Brighton Beach; sushi and
popcorn cauliflower at Happy Maki; the
Royal Pavilion, built for King George IV
Previous pages: The bandstand on
Brighton beach dates to 1884; a Pretty in
Pink cocktail, made with whisky, vermouth
and strawberry syrup, from the bar at the
Artist Residence hotel
SEE & DO
B R I G H TO N F O O D TO U R S : For such a
T H E L A N E S & N O RT H L A I N E : These
compact city, Brighton punches way above
its culinary weight and has a thriving
independent food scene. Helping visitors
navigate it are Cat Lane and Angela
Brightwell’s team of guides, whose multistop tours might feature Happy Maki’s vegan
sushi, salads and natural wines at Plateau
or a pudding at Boho Gelato. Host retailers
are often real raconteurs, showing a flavour
of Brighton that extends beyond the plate.
brightonfoodtours.com
T H E S E A L A N E S : Offering a beachside dip
minus the bracing conditions, Brighton’s new
open-air pool has solar-powered pumps that
maintain 15-19C all year round. Warning:
swimmers may find their 50m lengths derailed
by the tempting smells drifting over the water
— the smart units next-door are home to Bison
Beach Bar and its in-house barbecue joint,
Wood X Coal. sealanesbrighton.co.uk
B R I G H TO N I 3 6 0 : Seen from below, the
530ft i360 — the world’s slimmest moving
observation tower — looks like a giant glass
doughnut impaled on a silver sword. But the
views from its summit — making passengers
“officially the highest people in Brighton”,
as an announcement jokes — are genuinely
impressive. Celebrate with sparkling wine
from the Sky Bar or gaze out to sea to spot
paddleboarders circling the ghostly ruins
of the West Pier. On a clear day, the Seven
Sisters cliffs can be glimpsed on the horizon.
brightoni360.co.uk
adjacent areas are made for ambling.
Traditionally the city’s jewellery district, the
narrow and maze-like Lanes are still chockfull of gem-laden shops, plus an armoury
shop, painted brilliant guards-red and
stocked with samurai swords. North Laine,
an umbrella term for several roads including
Bond St and Kensington Gardens, has an
almost carnival-like atmosphere at weekends,
with some boulevards accommodating cafes’
pavement tables as well as various vintage
and independent stores. visitbrighton.com
ROYA L PAV I L I O N : Queen Victoria called her
predecessor King George IV’s maximalist retreat
‘strange’ — but she must be the only visitor it’s
ever failed to impress. Brighton’s Versailles, the
Pavilion’s decadent design is heavily inspired
by different parts of Asia — the outside is like
a mini-version of India’s Taj Mahal, while the
interior is a dazzling combination of gilded
dragons, celestial carpets and hand-painted
Chinese wallpaper. brightonmuseums.org.uk
B R I G H TO N S E A F RO N T: Smack bang in
the middle of Brighton’s almost eight miles
of coastline is the Victorian-era Palace Pier.
Its diverse amusements include a two-penny
arcade, a caravan offering tarot readings and
a fairground with a helter-skelter. For a more
sedate ride, head to the nearby Volk’s Electric
Railway, a narrow-gauge train that trundles
along the promenade towards the Marina.
brightonpier.co.uk volksrailway.org.uk
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
161
B R I G H TO N
Clockwise from left: The amusements
on Palace Pier; Shelter Hall food
market; goat’s cheese with potato rosti
and avocado at Arcobaleno; one of the
49 bedrooms at Hotel du Vin; Gabriel,
owner of Taquitos Casazul, which has
been open since 2019
SLEEP
L I K E A LO C A L
AFTER HOURS
£ O N E B ROA D S T R E E T: There’s no
S H E LT E R H A L L : In the past the seafront was
receptionist or breakfast at this self-service
Kemptown hotel — instead, each digitally
locked room comes with a kitchenette. The
industrial aesthetic is offset by cosy throws
slung over super-comfy beds. Book a deluxe
king, or the courtyard or loft suite if you’re
travelling with family. These sleep four and
come with a lounge area.
onebroadstreet.co.uk
£ £ H OT E L D U V I N : Housed in a handsome,
gothic-style building that was once a wine
merchant’s store, this 49-room hotel sits back
from the seafront. Coastal shades bring a sense
of serenity to the stylish bedrooms, while
downstairs the clubbish bar and Parisianstyle bistro buzz with life. The courtyard is
sundowner-central during warmer months.
hotelduvin.com
£ £ £ A RT I S T R E S I D E N C E : The boutique
mini-chain’s flagship property occupies a
Regency townhouse facing Brighton’s West
Pier. Rooms feature one-off murals, exposed
brickwork and high-end soft furnishings,
contrasting the aesthetic in the communal
areas — all neon artworks, trailing succulents
and David Shrigley prints. The hotel’s barrestaurant is a popular local hangout, and
does an excellent brunch, as well as cocktails.
artistresidence.co.uk
only good for a stick of rock, but its culinary
scene has been transformed by this two-storey
food market. Up-and-coming chefs take on
residencies in one of seven kitchens; current
winners include Cairovan’s Egyptian-style
salads and Very Italian Pizza’s Amalfi-derived
dishes. Bag a balcony table for prime peoplewatching. shelterhall.co.uk
H A N N I N G TO N S : Just off unlovely
thoroughfare North Street, this was once a
service yard for the defunct Hanningtons
Department Store. Now revitalised, this
hidden ‘twitten’ (Sussex dialect for alleyway)
features striking street art as well as an
unusual range of independent businesses,
including Brass Monkey Ice Cream,
contemporary gallery Paxton & Glew and
Scandi-style homeware purveyors &halt.
hanningtonsbrighton.com
K E M P TOW N S E C R E T G A R D E N : Once,
many of the handsome Georgian houses on
Sussex Square had tunnel-accessed private
gardens — now the only remaining example
serves as an inner-city sanctuary. Within its
ivy-clad walls are cottage-style plantings,
immaculate lawns hosting a changing roster
of sculptural installations, and a pop-up shop
serving exceptional elevenses, such as quince
bakewell. secretgardenkemptown.co.uk
T H E P LOT T I N G PA R LO U R : Dionysus, the
Greek god of pleasure, is the muse for this
inventive cocktail bar. As well as appearing
on its bacchanalian wallpaper, they’re the
inspiration behind drinks such as the boldly
textured and coloured negroni sorbeto. Bag
a table in the light-filled glass atrium or one
of the restored cinema seats at the back.
theplottingparlour.uk
T H E B A S K E TM A K E R S A R M S : This pub
started as a side-hustle for a local 19th-century
weaver, and still serves as a hub for North
Laine residents. A low-ceilinged old-school
boozer, its walls are covered with vintage
tobacco tins containing notes left by previous
patrons. Pen your own haiku or love letter
while sinking a pint from one of eight cask
ales. Its menu features locally caught seafood
and meat from Brighton butchers.
basket-makers-brighton.co.uk
A RC O B A L E N O : Its name may mean ‘rainbow’
in Italian, but the owners of this inclusive
LGBTQ+ venue in seafront Kemptown hail
from neighbouring Malta. The menu features
national dishes like timpana (a baked
pasta pie), but the extensive ABBA-themed
drinks list is perhaps a more appropriate
accompaniment to regular free events
such as drag act Dick Day’s Hairy Fairies.
myarcobaleno.com
1 62
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
B R I G H TO N
1 mile
HOVE
BRIGHTON
Hove Lagoon
North
Laine
The
Lanes Royal Pavilion
Brighton i360
Brighton Palace Pier
Sea Lanes
Marina
UNITED
KINGDOM
LONDON
E N G L I S H
C H A N N E L
Brighton & Hove
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Rail links to Brighton are operated by
Southern, Thameslink and Gatwick
Express, with direct services to
destinations including London and
Cambridge. The train station is very
central and a straight 15-minute walk
to the seafront.
southernrailway.com thameslink
railway.com gatwickexpress.com
Average journey time from
London: 1h.
Brighton is a compact city and easy to
explore on foot, but longer journeys
can be made by bus. A £6 citySAVER
ticket offers unlimited travel for 24
hours — including journeys to Hove,
a 10-minute hop away. Alternatively,
English’s, open since
1945, is Brighton’s oldest
book a green ebike or scooter via the
Beryl app. buses.co.uk beryl.cc
seafood restaurant
WHEN TO GO
Brighton’s peak festival season runs
from May to September, when the
BUY
E AT
weather is also at its summer best
E R A : Past masters at acquiring mid-century
£ TAQ U I TO S C A S A Z U L : Great for a street
— offering more sunshine hours
furniture, the owners of this two-floor corner
store believe decorative antiques are the next
big thing in interiors and are expanding their
stock accordingly. The duo’s finds are all
carefully refurbished and could include a pair
of psychedelic side tables, an art deco club
chair or a painted terracotta leopard.
era-brighton.com
S N O O P E R S PA R A D I S E : Sherlock Holmes’
mind palace featured long corridors and
endless memory-packed rooms — a fitting
metaphor for this capacious flea market, where
the detective serves as a logo. Shoppers enter
the Brighton institution through a turnstile
to explore 100 stalls laden with rare vinyl,
vintage clothes, retro toys and endless other
intriguing ephemera, all curated into themed
areas. snoopersparadise.co.uk
PA P E R S M I T H S : This little shop is a loveletter to the art of putting pen to paper,
offering a rainbow of writing materials and
a whimsical range of tote bags featuring
slogans such as ‘Always Stationery Never
Stationary’. Among the few UK outlets selling
diaries by cult US brand Appointed, it also has
its own range of brightly coloured notebooks.
papersmiths.co.uk
food-style lunch, this place is run by genial
Gabriel Gutierrez, the king of Brighton’s Open
Market, a — somewhat ironically — covered
marketplace off the city’s London Road. His
short menu of Mexican dishes includes chicken
tacos de mole — a 40-plus ingredient flavourhit — as well as vegan versions. Pick up one of
his nutty salsas to take home. casazul.co.uk
brightonopenmarket.co.uk
£ £ E N G L I S H ’ S : Brighton’s oldest seafood
restaurant is still among its best, with period
signage and muralled interior walls that
evoke the Edwardian high life. Choose from
oysters at the bar or one of its excellent-value
set menus, featuring mackerel pate alongside
classics such as lobster thermidor.
englishs.co.uk
£ £ £ F U R N A : A booking at lauded local chef
Dave Mothersill’s restaurant is as much an event
as tickets to the Theatre Royal next door. Sit on
a mustard bar stool at the countertop to watch
a kitchen ballet unfold, with staff preparing
an eight-course tasting menu of delicately
beautiful and flavour-rich dishes like Orkney
scallop, Yorkshire rhubarb and white asparagus.
Its low-lit, parquet-floored dining room is
made for lingering. furnarestaurant.co.uk
than most UK destinations and
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N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
temperatures averaging around 20C.
Hotels tend to be cheaper outside the
peak months of July and August. In
autumn, the average temperature is
around 12C — consider combining with
a trip to Lewes’ famous Bonfire Night
celebrations, a half-hour drive away.
MORE INFO
visitbrighton.com
brighton.co.uk
HOW TO DO IT
Dance your way round Brighton
with a Boogie Shoes silent disco
walking tour. Groups take a liberating
shimmy along the promenade,
to current party tunes.
boogieshoessilentdisco.com
Graffiti expert REQ offers a two-hour
street art tour starting at Enter Gallery,
which also sells accessibly priced
originals by emerging artists including
Ryan Callanan. eventbrite.co.uk
entergallery.com
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
soundtracked by 1980s pop through
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PA I D C O N T E N T F O R R A D I S S O N H O T E L G R O U P
FRANCE
A gastronomic
guide to Lyon
From old-world bistros to laid-back global cuisine, this French city celebrates
exceptional produce and ever-developing traditions. Words: James March
A
t the junction of two great rivers
and overlooked by a towering
basilica, few cities in Europe look
like Lyon. Even fewer can offer
the breadth of tastes that can be found in
Lyon. Sat between the vertiginous vineyards
of Beaujolais and the cattle-studded
pastures of the Alps, this is a city with
culinary quality at its core. Its kitchens
have played host to notable names, from
trailblazing female chef Eugénie Brazier
— the first person to be awarded six Michelin
stars — to Paul Bocuse, whose innovative
dishes championed the region’s local
produce. With poultry from Bresse, cow’smilk cheeses from Dauphiné, crayfish from
Bugey and, of course, wines, from Beaujolais
and the Rhône Valley, menus in Lyon are a
true education in the local area.
Lyon’s historic bouchons (bistro-style
restaurants) are the obvious place to
begin your search for the city’s culinary
heart. Despite their quaint red-andwhite chequered tablecloths and unfussy
handwritten menus, the traditional
Lyonnais dishes served here are not to be
underestimated. Whether sitting amid
the mahogany interiors of Café Comptoir
Abel or the more contemporary stylings of
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers, diners should
expect punchy flavours at every turn. Onion,
butter and offal dominate menus at these
family-owned spots, where dishes are often
served with a carafe of local wine.
Though Lyon is proud of its culinary past,
this is not a city that rests on its laurels.
“Lyon’s food scene is so exciting because
of its diversity,” says Anthony Bonnet,
the head chef of Les Loges, a Michelinstarred restaurant hidden in an elegant
Florentine-style courtyard in the city centre.
“There are still the traditional bouchons, but
there’s also a new generation of chefs who
are keen to push the boundaries of French
gastronomy and introduce new concepts.”
FROM SAUVIGNON TO SPRING ROLLS
The diversity of Lyon’s produce is best
sampled at the sprawling Les Halles de Paul
Bocuse, in the Part-Dieu district of the city.
Named after the legendary chef, this large
food court has narrow aisles where Lyonnais
delights are offered at every corner. Stop for
a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and fresh oysters
at Maison Merle before picking up a sweet
slice of tarte aux pralines (pink praline tart)
at Délices des Sens.
|
PA I D C O N T E N T F O R R A D I S S O N H O T E L G R O U P
Bonnet’s best
Lyonnais dishes
PIKE QUENELLE
This dish is traditionally
made with pike from the
ponds of the Dombes,
located just north of Lyon,
and served with a special
crayfish sauce.
PÂTÉ EN CROÛTE
A must-try. This pie is
prepared with local veal,
pork and wild mushrooms,
and the jelly is scented with
Arquebuse (herbal spirits).
POACHED PEAR
A traditional dish of the
Beaujolais vineyard,
flavoured with spices and
red wine. Blackcurrant
cream is usually added,
too. It’s a delicious,
refreshing dessert that
locals love.
From left: Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône
are local to Lyon; Lyon Cathedral rising
above the city; Pink praline tarts stacked
in a bakery window
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Fly direct from London
to Lyon in around 1h40m.
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY
It’s worth noting that modern Lyonnais
cuisine does not only cater to time-honoured
French tastes. Over in the tumbling hillside
neighbourhood of La Croix-Rousse, you’ll
find notes of Naples in the woodfired pizzas
at the rustic restaurant Maria. Alternatively,
a short walk south to the banks of the Rhône
will bring you to the low-lit Mamasan,
which serves aromatic Vietnamese and
Laotian spring rolls, pho and bo-bun.
REGIONAL , SEASONAL MENUS
No matter where Lyon’s kitchens find their
inspiration, there’s always one guiding
principle. “The common thread remains
the quality of the produce,” says Bonnet,
“which we select with great attention.”
Bonnet grew up just outside the city, in the
forested hills of the Monts du Lyonnais, where
his grandparents were farmers. It was here
that his appreciation for the area’s fresh local
produce began. “With the wines, the orchards,
the cheeses and the charcuterie, our region is
unbelievably bountiful. I find that it offers an
unlimited source of inspiration,” he says.
“I work with many local farmers, and
they are the ones who ultimately guide
my cooking. I always try to create dishes
according to what nature brings us, and with
respect for the producers. Our gastronomic
heritage in Lyon is, above all, our land.”
Bonnet’s menus at Les Loges, in the Cour
des Loges Lyon, A Radisson Collection Hotel,
showcase a delectable array of local flavours.
It’s a taste of Lyon’s 21st-century creativity
crafted by a chef with deep respect for the
city’s prestigious past. “After all,” he says,
“Lyon is a city that makes you hungry!”
Alternatively, Eurostar trains
to Lyon from London St
Pancras require one change at
Paris before continuing south.
Stay at Cour des Loges Lyon,
A Radisson Collection Hotel
in the heart of Vieux Lyon,
easily accessed by bus, metro
and taxi from Lyon Part-Dieu
station. For more information,
visit radissonhotels.com/
collection
T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
T R AV E L TA L K
A S K THE E XPE RTS
N EED ADVI C E FO R YO U R N E X T TRI P ? ARE YO U AF TER RECOM MEN DATI O N S ,
TI P S AN D G U I DAN C E ? O U R E XPERT S HAVE TH E AN SWER S …
TH E
E X PE RT S
Shafik Meghji
Co-author of
Lonely Planet Chile
Mary Nelson
Travel expert,
Journey Latin America
Rory Goulding
Project editor, National
Geographic Traveller (UK)
Author of Epic Train
Journeys & Around the
World in 80 Trains
Sean Newsom
Ski travel editor,
Times Travel
Clockwise from above:
Flamingos feed at Laguna
Chaxa in Chile’s Atacama
Desert; off-piste in
France’s Les 3 Vallées ski
area; Palermo’s old town
and cathedral
168
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
rainforests. Finish in Torres del
have a greater chance of spotting
Paine National Park, a trekking
wildlife, including the elusive puma.
hotspot that showcases southern
The Vendimia harvest festivals also
Patagonia’s soaring mountains.
run through March, with traditional
Hotel group Tierra has
excellent luxury hotels in the
music and plenty of wine.
For a first visit, I recommend the
north and south of the country.
Torres del Paine National Park, the
And if you have a few extra days
Atacama Desert, the Chilean Lake
— and the budget — a visit to
District and the wineries of the
far-flung Rapa Nui (Easter Island)
Central Valley. The Lake District is
is highly recommended, with
the northern gateway to Patagonia,
flights of around five hours from
with its forests of monkey puzzle
Santiago, the Chilean capital, from
trees, turquoise lakes and snowy
£600 return. tierrahotels.com
volcanoes. Finish at a winery in the
latamairlines.com S H A F I K M E G H J I
Maipo Valley, less than an hour’s
drive from Santiago airport.
March is an excellent month as the
A 13-day trip with Journey
weather is great overall: still hot,
Latin America from the Atacama
but not overbearing. The threat
to Patagonia, much like this one,
of disruptive rain in the desert is
costs from £5,370 per person,
at an end and the temperamental
including all hotels, excursions,
far south tends to be more stable.
transfers and domestic flights.
Fewer people travel during this
journeylatinamerica.com
period, so visitors to Patagonia
M A RY N E L S O N
IMAGES: GETTY
Monisha Rajesh
I’d like to visit Chile for the first
time next year. Which month
should I go and what should I aim
to see on a two-week trip?
In November — late spring
— peak-season hordes are yet to
arrive and the weather is generally
good in both the north and south.
You can sample Chile’s remarkable
geographic diversity in a fortnight
if you take some internal flights.
Start in the Atacama Desert:
the town of San Pedro de Atacama
is surrounded by otherworldly
landscapes, while Lauca National
Park — a high-altitude realm of
lakes, llamas and volcanoes — offers
equally impressive scenery. In
central Chile, the engaging port
of Valparaíso is renowned for its
food and street art, while further
south, the mist-shrouded Chiloé
archipelago is rich in myths,
wooden churches and temperate
I’m confused about the
rules on bringing food into
Britain post-Brexit. What am
I allowed to do?
Whatever red tape importers
might face these days, if you’re
bringing foodstuffs back
to Great Britain from an EU
country for personal use, you
generally needn’t worry (the
rules for coming into Northern
Ireland are mostly similar). I had
to check this last year when
debating whether to transport
a monstera fruit from Madeira.
From all EU countries, plus
Switzerland, Norway, Iceland,
Is it realistic to travel to Sicily
on a two-week no-fly break?
I’m keen to take a big rail trip
somewhere warmer.
You can travel by train from
the UK to Italy in a day, but a
slower-paced itinerary offers
breathing space in case of
delays. Board an early-morning
Eurostar in London and spend
24 hours in Paris. The following
afternoon, take the 15.16 highspeed Frecciarossa service
to Milan, which lasts less than
seven hours, and stay at the
lively Ostello Bello hostel.
Board a daytime train to Rome
Liechtenstein, the Faroe
entering from other non-EU
Islands and Greenland, you
countries. For these, you’re
can bring in dairy, fish, meat
best off checking from a long
and animal products such as
— and sometimes weirdly
honey and eggs, so long as
specific — list of foods that are
they’re for your own use. The
permitted, banned or allowed
only limitation is if you want to
under certain circumstances.
return with more than 2kg of
Meat and milk products are
pork, when extra rules apply
a hard no (bar certain items
— careful with that leg of
for infants), and fruit and
jamón from Spain.
vegetables are generally
From the EU, Switzerland
restricted, although lots of fruit
and Liechtenstein, you can also
that don’t tend to grow in the
bring in fruit, vegetables, nuts
UK, like pineapple and mango,
and seeds for personal use.
are fine. gov.uk/bringing-
Things get a bit more
complicated when you’re
food-into-great-britain
R O RY G O U L D I N G
— the three-hour journey leaves
Circumetnea railway spirals
plenty of time to explore the
up around the terraces and
capital. Then it’s time for the
foothills of Mount Etna.
highlight of the trip: the sleeper
Connections from Taormina
train to Palermo, departing
and Catania will take you
Rome at 20.16 or 20.31 and
back to Messina for the return
taking 13 hours, via a ferry to
journey to mainland Italy. You
cross the Strait of Messina.
can then retrace your original
Spend at least three nights
route or take the Nightjet
in Palermo, tasting fruit and
service from Milan to Vienna,
pizzas at Capo food market,
then another train from Vienna
munching arancini in parks that
to Paris. Interrail offers a 15-day
smell of orange blossom and
global pass starting from €349
splashing at Mondello Beach.
(£300), with a supplement
From Palermo, regional bus
for sleeper-train bookings.
and rail services run to Catania,
nightjet.com interrail.eu
from where the Ferrovia
MONISHA RAJESH
Where can I go for a good-value
ski break with my school-aged
children this winter?
It’s not just the choice of resort that
affects the price of your ski break.
When you ski and what kind of
accommodation you book will both
have a big impact, too. So if you go
during the week of Christmas, stay
in a self-catering apartment rather
than a catered chalet or a hotel.
You may grumble when faced with
cooking dinner after a day on the
slopes, but there’s no arguing with
the price. You can halve the basic
cost of your holiday this way.
Picking an ugly-duckling resort
will cut prices further. Take Les
Menuires, in France, by way of
an example. Around its central
hub of lifts and pistes, the visuals
are more high-rise Paris suburb
than cute Savoyard village. But
it’s also part of the brilliant Les 3
Vallées ski area, with some of its
finest intermediate pistes. It has
good nursery slopes, too, plus a
reduced-price beginner’s lift pass
and well-developed apres-ski
infrastructure that includes two
public pools, an Alpine roller
coaster and a three-mile toboggan
slope. You’ll need to be energetic
and well-organised to make the
most of it — but hey, you haven’t
come to sit on a sunlounger.
At the time of writing, a week
from 23 December in a two-room
apartment at the Les Clarines
residence costs £797 per person
with four sharing, self-catering,
including flights and transfers with
Crystal. Nearby, on the other side
of Les 3 Vallées, the same week in
a four-star Courchevel hotel such
as the Écrin Blanc will set you back
£4,399 per person, half-board.
crystalski.co.uk S E A N N E W S O M
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
169
T R AV E L TA L K
THE INFO
Sydney Opera House
IT ’ S 5 0 YE AR S S I N C E TH I S MO D ERN AU S TR ALIAN I CO N GAVE
SYD N E Y O N E O F TH E WO RLD ’ S MO S T D I S TI N C TIVE S K YLI N E S
Birthday bash
To mark five decades since its opening, the Aussie
landmark is hosting 50 days of one-off music,
dance and theatre performances in October
TOP TH RE E
PHOTO
OPPORTUNITIES
Mrs Macquarie’s Point
TO P H OTO G R A P H T H E
OPER A HOUSE’S ICONIC
‘ S H E L L S ’ AT G O L D E N H O U R
Circular Quay ferry
TO C A P T U R E U N U S UA L
A N G L E S , I N C LU D I N G B E LOW
SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE
C O S T UM E C H A N G E
SETTING THE SCENE
S O N G & DA N C E
Now home to the Opera House,
Bennelong Point had long been
The Opera House celebrates
Bennelong Point was once the
known by the local Eora people
the site’s Indigenous legacy
site of a 19th-century British fort
as Tubowgule, a place for
with a permanent programme
and, later, a tram depot
storytelling and festivities
of dance, music and talks
Beulah St Wharf
TO S H O OT T H E O P E R A
H O U S E L I T U P AG A I N S T T H E
S K YS C R A P E R S O F T H E C B D
1956
1959
1973
Queen Elizabeth II
2007
An architectural icon,
2009
The building’s ‘shells’,
Danish architect
Construction of Sydney
Jørn Utzon beats
Opera House begins,
officially opens the
the building is given
now often illuminated
233 entrants in a
a project initially
Opera House on 20
UNESCO World Heritage
for special occasions, are
competition to design a
expected to take four
October — the final cost
Site status, a year before
lit up for the first time
new opera house
years and cost A$7m
having soared to A$102m
Utzon’s death
for Vivid Sydney festival
Sources: sydneyoperahouse.com visitsydneyaustralia.com sydney.com
1 70
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
WORDS: JORDAN LYNCH. IMAGES: GETTY
Timeline
T R AV E L TA L K
HOT TOPIC
OVERTOURI SM
With visitor numbers around the world increasing towards pre-pandemic
levels, the issue of overtourism is once again rearing its head
When locals in the charming
Austrian lakeside village of
Hallstatt staged a blockade of the
main access tunnel, brandishing
placards asking visitors to ‘think of
the children’, it highlighted what
can happen when places start to
feel overrun by tourists. Hallstatt
has just 800 residents, but has
experienced visitor numbers as
high as 10,000 a day. And it’s just
one of a growing number of places
where residents are concerned
about the influx of travellers.
The term ‘overtourism’ is
relatively new, having been coined
around a decade ago to highlight
the spiralling numbers of visitors
taking a toll on cities, landmarks
and landscapes. While many
destinations, reliant on the income
that tourism brings, are still keen
Crowds in Staromestske Namesti, or the Old
for arrivals, a handful of major cities
Town Square, in Prague, Czech Republic
and sites are now imposing bans,
fines, taxes and time-slot systems
in a bid to curb visitor numbers.
How do you define overtourism?
In essence, overtourism is too many
visitors in one place at any given
time. An accumulation of economic,
social and environmental factors
determine if and how those
numbers are creeping up.
There are the wide-reaching
effects, such as reefs being
degraded from too many visitors
snorkelling, diving and touching
the corals, as well as tour boats
anchoring in the waters. There are
more localised issues, too — renters
being evicted by landlords in favour
of turning properties into holiday
lets, and house prices escalating.
Excessive tourism can also lead to
skyrocketing prices, long queues
at popular sights, exobitant noise
levels, crowded beaches and
damage to historical buildings.
Conversely, ‘undertourism’ is a
term applied to less-frequented
destinations. The economic, social
and environmental benefits of
tourism aren’t always passed on to
those with plenty of capacity and,
consulted about what they want
while tourist boards are always
and don’t want from tourism, we’ll
keen for people to visit their
see more protests.”
lesser-known attractions, doing so
can often be a more sustainable
and rewarding experience for both
residents and visitors.
Why is it an issue? A French startup, Murmuration, monitors the
environmental impact of tourism
by using satellite data and found
that 80% of travellers visit just 10%
of the world’s tourism destinations,
meaning bigger crowds in fewer
spots. The UNWTO predicts that
by 2030, the number of worldwide
tourists will reach 1.8 billion, likely
leading to greater pressure on
already popular spots and more
objection from locals.
Justin Francis, co-founder and
CEO of Responsible Travel, says:
“Social media has concentrated
tourism in hotspots and
exacerbated the problem. Tourist
numbers globally are increasing.
Until local people are properly
What steps are being taken? In
the absence of any real regulation,
some destinations have taken
it upon themselves to try and
establish their own form of crowd
control. Some have introduced
‘city taxes’ on tourists. Barcelona
is set to increase its nightly levy in
April 2024; originally introduced
in 2012, the tax varies depending
on accommodation type. Venice,
meanwhile, is expected to charge
day-trippers €5 (£4.30) from 2024.
In Amsterdam this summer,
the city council voted to ban
cruise ships, while the mayor,
Femke Halsema, commissioned
a campaign of discouragement,
asking anyone who planned to
have a ‘vacation from morals’
to stay away. In Rome, sitting at
popular sites such as the Trevi
Fountain and Spanish Steps has
been restricted by the authorities.
Are there any solutions? There
are ways to better manage tourism
by promoting more off-season
travel, limiting numbers where
possible alongside greater industry
regulation. Encouraging more
sustainable travel and reducing
friction between residents and
tourists could also help.
Harold Goodwin, emeritus
professor at Manchester
Metropolitan University, says:
“Overtourism is a function of
visitor volumes, but also of
conflicting behaviours, crowding in
inappropriate places and privacy.
Social anthropologists talk about
frontstage and backstage spaces.
Tourists are rarely welcome in
backstage spaces. To manage
crowds, it’s necessary to analyse
and determine the causes of them.”
As it stands, overtourism is a
seasonal issue for a small number
of destinations. For most places,
tourism remains a force for good
with many benefits beyond simple
economic growth. K AT E L E A H Y
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
171
|
P A I D C O N T E N T F O R V I S I T WA L E S
WALES
Caves, cliffs
& coastal paths
Pembrokeshire is the Welsh coast at its wildest. From coasteering to
kayaking, foraging and stargazing, here are five of the best ways to
explore its natural beauty. Words: Kerry Walker
|
I
n Pembrokeshire, cliffs nosedive
to castaway fantasy coves, with
tempetuous waters, ravishing sweeps
of dune-fringed beach and fishing
villages straight from the pages of an
Enid Blyton book. Iron Age hillforts and
standing stones keep watch on lonely
headlands, just as they have for millennia,
and offshore islands reverberate with the
trill and warble of seabirds — razorbills
and guillemots, puffins and shearwaters.
The area’s connecting thread is the 186-mile
Pembrokeshire Coast Path, which takes you
through wildflower-freckled meadows and
over gorse-clad cliffs. But there’s plenty
more worth exploring, too.
IMAGES: VISIT WALES; GETTY
1
TRY COASTEERING
Coasteering is everything your parents
told you not to do as a kid: leaping into
choppy waters, swimming into caves and
scrambling over boulders to stretches of
the coast few get to see. An exhilarating
encounter with waves and wild shores, this
activity was born in Pembrokeshire in the
1980s. Alongside an expert, you’ll soon be
grappling with ragged, barnacle-clad rocks
and pencil diving off rocky ledges into the
Atlantic. During the experience, make sure
to look out for razorbills and guillemots in
spring and seals and their pups in autumn.
No prior experience is necessary — helmets,
wetsuits and professional guiding are
included. Stay overnight at an eco lodge
to make a real weekend of it, combining
coasteering with other activities.
2
STARGAZE IN THE NATIONAL PARK
Wales has some of the world’s darkest
skies — and the Pembrokeshire coast is no
exception, with fiery sunsets giving way to
inky nights lit by a brilliant frieze of stars.
The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park has
eight Dark Sky Discovery Sites, including
Broad Haven South, Newgale Beach and
Martin’s Haven car parks. Gazing up to the
heavens, you can often spot shooting stars,
distant planets and constellations like the
Plough and Orion with the naked eye. Bring
binoculars, a telescope or an SLR camera to
see planets, nebulae and meteor showers (in
August, November and December) in sharper
detail. A red-light torch helps your eyes
adjust to natural darkness.
3
GO COASTAL FORAGING
To tune into the natural rhythm of wind
and waves and channel your inner huntergatherer, explore the coast on a foraging
walk. Rambling along the shore and dipping
into rock pools at low tide, experts can teach
you how to tell sea lettuce from laver, and
bladderwrack (nice to pop into the bath)
from pepper dulse (the truffle of the seaweed
world). Afterwards, pop into the cathedraltopped town of St Davids for homemade teas,
seaweed brownies and wild food lunches.
4
SPOT PUFFINS ON
SKOMER ISLAND
Rain or shine, Skomer is magic. Board
the little boat in Martin’s Haven to bump
across the sea and gasp as cliffs soar above
you and the island rises from the deep like
a lost Atlantis. And oh, the puffins. There
are many places in Britain where you can
glimpse these loveable birds, but it’s hard to
get closer or spot them in greater numbers
anywhere else. The island is hollowed out
with burrows housing 42,000 of them. On
P A I D C O N T E N T F O R V I S I T WA L E S
the four-mile circular walk via the Wick,
you’ll see (and hear) these comical little
birds as they dash across wildflower-cloaked
cliffs, bring in sand-eels for their pufflings
and groan in their burrows. Book tickets
online as visitor numbers are restricted.
Bed down at a hotel and join the midnight
birders. The island is home to the world’s
largest breeding colony of Manxies
— 350,000 pairs — who fly here
every spring from South America.
5
HIT THE WATER IN ST DAVIDS
The cliff-flanked, wave-bashed coast
around the town of St Davids was made
for aquatic adventure. For an in-depth
exploration of the coast’s craggiest corners
and chances of spotting seabirds, dolphins
and Atlantic grey seals, book a sea kayak
session — options range from introductory
courses to overnight paddle-camp trips.
If that’s not enough, other activities
include wild swimming, paddleboarding,
coasteering and surfing.
From left: Pembrokeshire coast path near Whitesands
bay; coasteering near St Davids; gathering of puffins
looking out from a grassy knoll on Skomer Island
PLAN YOUR TRIP
For more information on how to organise an
adventurous trip to Pembrokeshire, head to
visitwales.com
T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
HOTEL AWARDS
2023
WE’ VE SCO U RED TH E PL AN E T TO B RI N G
YO U TH E B E S T N E W AN D IMPROVED
H OTEL S , FROM A B E AC H S I D E PAD I N
S RI L AN K A TO A MO U NTAI N LO D G E I N
N O RWAY. WH E TH ER YO U WANT U N I Q U E
I NTERI O R D E S I G N , WO RLD - B E ATI N G
FO O D, I N C RED I B LE VALU E O R S IMPLY
A C HAN C E TO E SC APE TH E WO RLD FO R
A DAY O R T WO, YO U ’RE G UAR ANTEED A
ME MO R AB LE S TAY AT E VERY O N E O F O U R
42 WI N N ER S AN D RU N N ER S - U P
THE WINNERS
City Star
Eco Stay
C A P E L L A S Y D N E Y,
C A P K A RO S O,
AU S T R A L I A
INDONESIA
Remote Escape
Unique Space
U N D E R C A N VA S
C A N F R A N C E S TAC I Ó N ,
B RYC E C A N YO N , U S A
S PA I N
Mountain Refuge
Country House Retreat
SIX SENSES
B OYS H A L L , E N G L A N D
C R A N S - M O N TA N A ,
SWITZERL AND
Food Hero
Clever Conversion
S OM M E R RO, N O RWAY
B OTA N I C S A N C T UA RY,
Revamped Hotel
B E LG I U M
LIFE HOUSE, BERKSHIRES,
Romantic Bolthole
USA
A N A N TA R A C O N V E N TO
Budget Break
DI A M ALFI GR AND
LEVEN, ENGL AND
H OT E L , I TA LY
Beach Sanctuary
A H U B AY, S R I L A N K A
Boutique Pad
D E D U RG E R DA M ,
NETHERL ANDS
Wellness Haven
A L E E N TA R E T R E AT
IMAGE: FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA
CHIANG MAI, THAIL AND
The judging panel of travel writers
A suite at Sommerro in Oslo, Norway,
winner of the Clever Conversion category
JULIA BUCKLEY
JOHN O’C E ALL AIGH
LEE COBAJ
DA N I E L S TA B L E S
ZO E Y G O T O
K E R RY WA L K E R
CA MILL A HEWITT
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C
B E N L E RW I L L
T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) T E A M
ALICIA MILLER
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
175
CITY STAR
F U L LY I M M E R S E YO U R S E L F
I N U R B A N L I F E AT T H E S E
T H R E E S T Y L I S H S P OT S
Capella Sydney, Australia
A painstaking labour of love
brought Capella Sydney into
being: it was formed from the
city’s heritage-listed Department
of Education building, a
striking sandstone monolith
in the financial district dating
from 1912. Period features are
complemented throughout with
works by First Nations artists
and tasteful design touches like
vintage cocktail sets. Respite
from the clamour of Sydney
is promised at guest-only spa
Auriga, which features locally
inspired spa treatments. Visitors
are actively encouraged to explore
the wider city, too. The hotel
team enthusiastically curates
itineraries that range from private
Champagne cruises along the
harbour to foraging for endemic
foods with Aboriginal Australian
guides. From A$690 (£358), B&B.
capellahotels.com
REMOTE ESCAPE
G E T AWAY F ROM I T A L L AT P RO P E RT I E S T H AT
O F F E R A T R U E E S C A P E F ROM T H E WO R L D
Runners-up
Under Canvas Bryce Canyon, USA
Runners-up
PA L I H O U S E W E S T
Those yearning to get far, far away from it all should
venture to the fiery red rocks of southwest Utah. Set on a
plateau surrounded by 3,000m-high mountains are the
50 luxurious safari tents of Under Canvas Bryce Canyon.
These come with king-sized beds, equipped with the kind
of sumptuous mattresses usually found in five-star hotels.
As close to nature as it gets, the camp’s surroundings offer
an outdoor playground on an epic scale, with potential for
hiking and biking and the option to climb the nearby slot
canyons. Back at base, there’s a restaurant serving bison
burgers and an unlimited supply of s’mores to toast by the
fire as evening falls, before you drift off to sleep in your
tent. The hot ticket is the stargazer suite — with a window
above the bed, it allows you to sleep under a blanket of
stars. The only thing that Under Canvas Bryce Canyon
lacks? Wi-fi — but that’s to help you truly unplug from the
outside world. $309 (£250), tent only.
undercanvas.com
C A R AVA N AG A FAY,
H O L LY WO O D , U S
The kitschy-cool decor here spans
the public spaces and 95 guest
rooms, but the star of the show
is the rooftop pool, with views of
Los Angeles’ Hollywood Hills.
From $225 (£173), room only.
palisociety.com
PA L A Z ZO V I LÒ N , I TA LY
This hotel in Rome is an exercise
in good taste. Vintage design
touches complement magnificent
period features, with mid-century
modern furniture beneath goldfrescoed ceilings. From €820
(£707), B&B. palazzovilon.com
1 76
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
M O RO C C O
In a landscape of ochre sands,
home here is a safari tent or an
adobe-walled ‘desert lodge’,
all with hotel comforts and an
organic feel inspired by the
desert. From €177 (£153), B&B.
ourhabitas.com
KL AHOOSE WILDERNESS
R E S O RT, C A N A DA
Surrounded by extreme natural
beauty, these lodges and cabins
have a cosy alpine feel, with
balconies hanging over the shores
of a creek. From C$832 (£500),
full board. klahooseresort.com
H OT E L AWA R D S
MOUNTAIN REFUGE
F I N D E X H I L A R AT I N G O U T D O O R AC T I V I T I E S A N D B U C K E T S O F
IMAGES: TIMOTHY KAYE; SIX SENSES HOTELS RESORTS & SPAS
MO U N TA I N S T Y L E AT O U R W I N N I N G H I G H - A LT I T U D E LO D G E S
Six Senses Crans-Montana, Switzerland
Runners-up
High in the Swiss Alps, this chalet-style resort delivers
on Six Senses’ promise to connect its guests with the
wonders of nature. In winter, residents are seconds from
the slopes — they have direct ski in, ski out access and can
carve their own trail through the Plaine Morte Glacier. In
summer, there’s a wide range of activities available, from
paragliding and wakeboarding to hiking and horse-riding.
The intimate 45-room property is the perfect post-exertion
retreat, with indoor and outdoor pools and ‘biohacking’
spa programmes that use advanced tech to provide hyperpersonalised treatments. Afterwards, dinner at Wild Cabin
brasserie features hearty Swiss dishes and more mountain
views. On clear nights, cosy up for star-lit film showings
at the open-air cinema before heading to bed in rooms
finished in quartzite stone and local larch. From 880 CHF
(£793), B&B. sixsenses.com
A N D E R S MO U N TA I N S U I T E S ,
I TA LY
The wood-panelled walls and
stone-grey concrete of this sevensuite retreat create a sense of calm
that works in harmony with the
landscape. From €210 (£181), B&B.
anders-suites.com
T H E B O L D E R , N O RWAY
With jawdropping views of the
fjord below via huge windows, the
four lodges here are decorated
in earthy tones, with organic
materials. From 3,900 NOK
(£290), room only. thebolder.no
Clockwise from left:
Suites at Capella Sydney
feature deep-soak baths;
the hotel’s heritagelisted exterior; a deluxe
terrace room at Six
Senses Crans-Montana,
high in the Swiss Alps
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
17 7
H OT E L AWA R D S
FOOD HERO
U N F O RG E T TA B L E G O U R M E T
EXPERIENCES ARE THE HIGHLIGHT OF
A S TAY AT T H E S E T H R E E R E T R E AT S
Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp, Belgium
In 1238, monks founded a monastery and
hospital on this spot in Antwerp. A botanical
garden was central to the self-sufficient
order so it’s apt that the complex has been
transformed into a food-focused hotel, with
five restaurants sharing four Michelin stars
between them. Hertog Jan at Botanic won
two for its omakase-style tasting menus,
sourcing produce from the Sanctuary’s
greenhouse, herb garden and beehives. Other
restaurants at the hotel include Het Gebaar,
offering refined lunches and afternoon tea,
and glass-walled 1238 Restaurant. Scattered
around the complex, rooms combine high
luxury with pared-back simplicity, combining
rough-plastered walls and felt-upholstered
furniture with contemporary art, and terraces
overlooking the chapel. From £324 (€377),
B&B. botanicantwerp.be
Runners-up
S B W I N E M A K E R ’ S H O U S E & S PA S U I T E S ,
A RG E N T I N A
Vintner Susana Balbo’s gastro haven in
Mendoza is in a century-old mansion with
just seven suites. At restaurant La Vida,
diners enjoy 14-course seasonal tasting
menus and wine from a cellar stocked with
Susana’s finest. Outside, asados (barbecues)
are laid on, while guests can take cooking
and grilling classes as well as wine tours,
tastings and blending sessions. Even when
you’re not eating, gastronomy is everywhere.
Wine-based spa treatments include grape seed
exfoliation, and ‘wellness butlers’ run nightly
turndown baths with local aromatic salts
and herbs. Doubles from $734 (£578), B&B.
susanabalbohotels.com
U P D OW N FA R M H O U S E , E N G L A N D
There’s lots to love about this Grade-II listed
farmhouse in Kent — the home-from-home
vibe, the well-stocked honesty bar, the quirky
art on the walls. But the biggest draw is the
food. In a conservatory behind the hotel, the
Italian-inspired restaurant serves up seasonal
flavours and a jovial atmosphere fuelled in
part by a well-curated wine list. Book in for a
lazy lunch that rolls into dinner, then retire to
one of five charmingly individual rooms. From
£190, B&B. updownfarmhouse.com
178
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
A view of the Amalfi Coast from the
cliffside Anantara Convento di Amalfi
Left: Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp has five
restaurants, including Fine Fleur
ROMANTIC BOLTHOLE
IMAGES: JURGEN LIJCOPS; RICHARD WAITE PHOTOGRAPHY
I M P O S S I B LY B E AU T I F U L LO C AT I O N S A N D A S E N S E O F S E C L U S I O N M A K E T H E S E P E R F E C T F O R T WO
Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel, Italy
Runners-up
Nowhere in Italy says romance quite like the Amalfi Coast,
and nowhere along this storied coastline is more romantic
than Anantara’s reworking of a 13th-century monastery,
located halfway up a sheer cliff above Amalfi itself. Here,
in your peaceful retreat above town, the crowds become
ants scurrying around below and the Tyrrhenian Sea
glistens beneath you at every turn. The air is heavy with
the fragrance of lemon blossom and the bougainvillea that
fringes the old monks’ clifftop meditation path, which
seems made for romantic strolls, and there are seemingly
never-ending terraces to explore with out-of-the-way spots
for two. The cells-turned-rooms are still monastically
simple, with cool cream walls, terracotta flooring and
windows overlooking the water. Big spenders can enjoy a
private dinner in the arabesque cloister, as local musicians
serenade them with 18th-century love songs. Doubles from
€368 (£314), B&B. anantara.com
B UA H A N , A B A N YA N T R E E
D OM A I N E D E S E TA N G S ,
ESCAPE , BALI
FR ANCE
Situated on a verdant mountainside,
Buahan is an idyllic retreat for
couples. Surrounded by foliage, its
elevated lodges are devoid of walls
and doors: instead, plush fourposters overlook the forest canopy.
Whether guests choose to use their
lodge’s plunge pool or copper bathtub
on the terrace, private nighttime
soaks are illuminated by the amber
glow of fireflies. It’s a veritable Eden,
where plant-based dishes and restful
morning yoga soothe the soul. From
16m IDR (£840), half board.
escape.banyantree.com
The beautiful setting of this estate
could be straight out of a fairytale:
2,500 acres of gardens, wildflowerfilled meadows and woodland,
with the 700-year-old chateau
reflected in the lake. Stay in one
of its seven suites or sequester
yourself away in one of the
charming cottages in the grounds.
On warm evenings, you can sit
out among the blooms by the
farmhouse restaurant and feast
on dishes such as langoustine and
caviar. From €315 (£270), room
only. aubergeresorts.com
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H OT E L AWA R D S
BEACH SANCTUARY
L A Z Y DAY S A N D L A I D - B AC K T RO P I C A L S T Y L E A R E G UA R A N T E E D AT T H E S E S E A S I D E H OT E L S
Ahu Bay, Sri Lanka
Runners-up
Perched on the most petite of promontories and fringed
by two soft sweeps of caramel-coloured sand, Ahu Bay
is a paean to the irresistible beauty of barefoot, beachfront
living. Plump beanbag-style loungers line a pretty infinity
pool with Indian Ocean views, while guests chat over
cocktails and a laid-back, languid soundtrack at the
restaurant. Finished with elegant teak furniture, colourful
textiles and handmade tiles, light and breezy bedrooms
are homely and calming. And everywhere you look, there’s
the splendour of the sea. Fringed by swaying palms and
age-old boulders, a pair of unblemished beaches are
seconds from the property. They feel particularly special
at dusk when, illuminated by the setting sun and firelight,
diners sit at simple tables rooted in the sand to enjoy
unfussy menus within touching distance of the
lapping water. From $350 (£274), B&B.
thereverie.life
A N DA Z PAT TAYA J OMT I E N
CASA CHABLÉ , MEXICO
B E AC H , T H A I L A N D
In the dense mangrove forests of
the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve
and with just 10 rooms, peace and
quiet are virtually guaranteed
here. A bone-white beach lies
a few steps from your room; if
you can remove yourself from it,
kayaking and snorkelling tours
are on offer. Evenings are spent
mezcal tasting, tucking into
Mexican seafood or relaxing in
your guest room or bungalow
— a picture of boho luxury in
thatch and dark wood. From
$1,469 (£1,150), full board.
casachable.chablehotels.com
On barely developed Tawanron
Beach, the design of this new Andaz
blends the best of traditional and
contemporary Thailand, with sleek
modern rooms alongside reclaimed
teak mansions. This is all set
inside tropical gardens woven with
numerous swimming pools, streams
and lotus ponds. The beach is right
on the doorstep and, beyond the
seashore, a fascinating province
home to wild elephants, hidden
waterfalls and Chinese-Thai heritage
villages. From 7,325 TH (£165), B&B.
hyatt.com
Thirteen-room Ahu Bay sits right on the
Indian Ocean in southwest Sri Lanka
Right: Aleenta Retreat has a wellness
programme that promotes mindfulness
through the likes of yoga and jungle walks
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ECO STAY
T H E P RO P E RT I E S T H AT P ROV E A
WO R L D - C L A S S B R E A K N E E D N ’ T
C O S T T H E E A RT H
Cap Karoso, Sumba
F ROM S PA H OT E L S TO W I L D E R N E S S LO D G E S , G I V E YO U R W E L L B E I N G A B O O S T
The owners of this Indonesian island
retreat waited for the ancestral
blessing of 600 local residents before
finally opening its doors. It was a
move that set the overall tone of the
low-impact hotel, which is deeply
rooted in its community. Natural
materials and Sumbanese crafts
feature in the 67 modern rooms,
which have views over the Flores
Sea. Initiatives at the hotel range
from employing underprivileged
youths and arranging creative
collaborations between visiting
international artists and Indonesian
craftspeople to treating water onsite
and teaching young guests about
permaculture at the kids’ club.
On the resort’s abundant farm, an
agricultural school demonstrates
eco-friendly techniques to the
island’s farmers, watched by the
hotel’s buffalo herd. From 4,259,524
IDR (£222), B&B. capkaroso.com
Aleenta Retreat Chiang Mai, Thailand
Runners-up
Runners-up
With burnout on the rise worldwide, the owners of Aleenta
Retreat in Chiang Mai are offering a holistic space in
which to gently press the reset button. Everything about
the resort aims to promote inner wellbeing. Instant
calm is achieved just by dropping your bags in one of the
peaceful teakwood guest rooms encircling the courtyard
pool. The restaurant keeps things local with fresh Lanna
dishes, a cuisine from northern Thailand featuring
mind-sharpening spicy broths and sticky rice swaddled
in banana leaves. But the real magic happens within the
resort’s meditative Ayurah Spa & Wellness Centre, which
uses a curated programme to tap into mindfulness through
jungle walks, spa treatments, yoga and tai chi. Retreats
here range from a couple of nights to a week, touching on
some of life’s bigger-picture themes, such as mastering
self-love with an energy coach and the art of deep rest
through Vipassana meditation, taught at either beginner
or ‘monk level’. From 4,850 TH (£112), room only.
aleenta.com
T H E C ŌMO D O, AU S T R I A
LE BOIS DE CHA MBRES, FR ANCE
A health resort since the 19th
century, Bad Gastein is a fitting
location for this luxury hotel, and
guests can try treatments that
make full use of the local thermal
waters. From €268 (£230), B&B.
thecomodo.com
Accommodation here is in old
farmhouse buildings on a 15thcentury estate, each clad in thermal
insulation and surrounded by
grounds where biodiversity is
promoted. From €145 (£124), B&B.
leboisdeschambres.fr
T R A K T F O R E S T H OT E L ,
B I RC H S E L S D O N ,
SWEDEN
ENGLAND
There’s little to distract from the
business of absorbing nature
and focusing on wellbeing at
these five suites on stilts, while
forest bathing can be taken quite
literally with a soak in the outdoor
hot tubs. From 6,200 SEK (£450),
room only. traktforesthotel.com
Birch aims to be one of London’s
largest rewilding projects, turning its
200-acre grounds from a golf course
back to its original biodiverse state.
Inside the grand old pile, much of
the furniture in the guest rooms is
upcycled. From £140, room only.
birchcommunity.com
IMAGES: RESPLENDENT CEYLON; ALEENTA RETREAT CHIANG MAI
WELLNESS HAVEN
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
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UNIQUE SPACE
Canfranc Estación, Spain
Runners-up
Canfranc Estación was Europe’s second-biggest train
station when its ribbon was cut in 1928. Now, the ‘Titanic
of the Mountains’ takes you back to an age when travel
was truly grand, with a five-star makeover courtesy of
Barceló and a contemporary design echoing its art deco
roots. The exterior would make the perfect setting for a
West Anderson film, while the vaulted concourse shines
as a soaring, light-flooded lobby that leaves new arrivals
speechless with its scale and opulence. The 104 rooms
and suites steam ahead style-wise, with polished parquet,
bronze globe chandeliers, black-and-white photos and
rich colours referencing Aragonese costume. After a day
hiking the Camino de Santiago or skiing in the snowcapped Pyrenees, try fine dining in a converted railway
carriage, local spa treatments and cocktails in the library
at this creative retreat. From €149 (£128), room only.
barcelo.com
V I L L A PA L L A D I O JA I P U R , I N D I A
S H I G U C H I H O K K A I D O , JA PA N
Hidden behind dazzling white
compound walls, just 25 minutes
from central Jaipur, lies this
wonderfully whimsical sanctuary.
The designers have gone all-out
with their maximalist grand vision
— a kaleidoscopic riot of rose and
pink, hand-painted murals of palm
trees and vines, and canopied beds
dressed in elaborately embroidered
sheets define the nine rooms. Some
respite for the eye can be found in the
calm of the sky-blue swimming pool
and surrounding tropical gardens.
From IR30,500 (£288), room only.
villa-palladio-jaipur.com
Every so often, a hotel comes
along that shifts the nature of
a place. Shiguchi is one such
disrupter: a cultural retreat in a
region where glitzy ski resorts
dominate. The centuries-old
wooden farmhouse buildings,
previously abandoned near
Tokyo, were dismantled and
painstakingly reassembled here
and now house a gallery and guest
villas. Their walls are lined with
artworks that compete with the
beautiful scenery framed by the
windows. From Y72,200 (£390),
including B&B. shiguchi.com
182
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: MANOLO YLLERA; MARK ANTHONY FOX
S OM E H OT E L S A R E S O O N E - O F - A - K I N D T H E Y D E F Y C AT E G O R I S AT I O N — H E R E ’ S T H E C R E A M O F T H E C RO P
H OT E L AWA R D S
One of the nine bedrooms at the
17th-century Boys Hall in Kent
From left: The vaulted lobby of
Canfranc Estación was once a train
station concourse; a bathroom
in the eaves, Boys Hall in Kent
COUNTRY HOUSE
RETREAT
M A K E L I K E A LO R D O R L A DY BY
B O O K I N G I N TO O N E O F O U R FAVO U R I T E
R U R A L E S TAT E S
Boys Hall, England
Kent’s Boys Hall certainly isn’t new. The
timbered Wealden hall house was built by
aristocrat Thomas Boys in 1616, and has
supposedly seen the likes of Charles I grace
its delightfully wonky interiors. After years
of transformation from a private home by
owners Kristie and Brad Lomas, it’s now one
of Britain’s most stunning country house
hotels. Currently with just nine bedrooms
(though more are planned), its intimate scale
and thoughtful interior design — medieval
enough to fit the structure, modern enough to
feel stylish — lend a personable, homely air.
Likewise the restaurant, set under a vaulted
barn-like ceiling, lacks the stuffiness you’ll
encounter at many other countryside manors,
and serves up delights such as sticky brawn
crumpet with kohlrabi. From £180, B&B.
boys-hall.com
Runners-up
T H E LO D G E , M A J O RC A
With its sprawling estate rubbing up against
the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, The
Lodge puts the focus on the outside. There’s no
need for art on the walls: eyes are drawn to the
views of gardens, orchards and lavender fields
through the windows of the main 16th-century
farmhouse. There are also putty-paletted
suites scattered round the site, each with
its own private outdoor space. When you’ve
done roaming, head to restaurant Singular
for locally sourced dishes served on a terrace
cantilevered over a hillock. From €445 (£380),
B&B. thelodgemallorca.com
L A N AU V E C O G N AC , F R A N C E
Opulent doesn’t half describe this pile just
outside the centre of French brandy-making
town Cognac. Housed in a former distillery,
the belle époque mansion is more chateau
than dusty cellar, with interiors that exude a
modern Marie Antoinette-style grandeur. Just
12 suites — and 12 acres of gardens — spell
low-guest density, so you can skirt along a
small canal and past fruit trees feeling like a
member of the royal court. Meander along the
squiggling Charente river on a canoe, then
return to sip through the library of cognacs.
From €400 (£344), B&B. lanauve.com
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
18 3
H OT E L AWA R D S
CLEVER
CONVERSION
THREE BUILDINGS GIVEN
A N E W L I F E A S A RT F U L LY
C O N V E RT E D H OT E L S
Sommerro, Oslo, Norway
In Oslo’s Frogner neighbourhood,
Sommerro is the hotly anticipated
rebirth of a 1930s landmark,
the former HQ of an electrical
company. The 231 rooms and
suites spin together art deco
patterns, retro wood panelling,
chandeliers, geometric tiles and
the dreamy folklore illustrations
of Norwegian artist Gerhard
Munthe. It’s more of a cultural
hub than a mere hotel. There’s a
small library; a cinema decked
out in bronze velvet club chairs;
a rooftop Nordic-Japanese
restaurant; tea salon; wine and
pintxos bar; and a spa with a
resident sleep therapist. The
outdoor pool has spirit-lifting
views of the city and surrounding
fjord, but loveliest of all are the
revamped historic public baths,
emblazoned with Per Krohg’s
mosaics of swimming women
and seals. From €162 (£139), B&B.
sommerrohouse.com
A four-poster bed in one of the premium
deluxe rooms at Sommerro, Oslo
Above: Sommerro is in the former
headquarters of an electrical company
Runners-up
PA L ÁC I O L U D OV I C E W I N E
This former palace was built for
João Frederico Ludovice, architect
to Portuguese King João V in the
1700s. Contemporary glamour has
been added to interiors adorned
with 18th-century blue-and-white
azulejo tiles, stucco and frescoes.
From €200 (£172), room only.
palacioludovice.com
T E L E G R A P H E N A MT, B E R L I N
Taking the neo-baroque bones
of Germany’s biggest post and
telegraph office, this boutique
hotel retains features like exposed
brick, parquet and arched
windows. The 97 rooms and suites
are monochrome, modernist
and stylishly functional.
From €284 (£244), room only.
telegraphenamt.com
184
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA; LIFE HOUSE BERKSHIRES
E X P E R I E N C E H OT E L , L I S B O N
The Library Lounge at the
Life House, Berkshires, US
Below: The Massachusetts hotel
was remodelled from a 1970s motel
REVAMPED HOTEL
T H E S E B O LT H O L E S H AV E B E E N B RO U G H T B AC K TO L I F E ,
IMAGE: XXXXXXX
F ROM A R E F U R B I S H E D MOT E L TO A S A FA R I LO D G E
Life House, Berkshires, USA
Runners-up
This old 1970s-era Days Inn motel has recently
received an unexpected plot twist, reinventing
itself as a hip writer’s retreat in the mountains
of the Berkshires in Massachusetts. In a
playful nod to the building’s previous chapter,
interiors now feature retro-inspired jazzy
prints and plush velvet fabrics, but the whole
package has been brought bang up to date for a
new generation of travellers, with a cocktail bar
and restaurant producing dishes using locally
sourced ingredients. Writers and bibliophiles
will find much to love here, from the handsome
wooden desks inside the 64 guest rooms
worthy of professional authors to a library
lounge with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves and
a crackling log fire for evenings spent dipping
into a classic. Should writer’s block strike, there
are the cultural offerings of the town of Lenox
nearby along with various head-clearing hikes
on the doorstep. From $211 (£166), room only.
lifehousehotels.com
A N D B E YO N D G R U M E T I
S E R E N G E T I R I V E R LO D G E ,
TA N Z A N I A
Largely levelled by a flood in 2020,
this safari lodge has embraced
a bold redesign and a focus on
sustainability. The 10 guest suites
have doubled in size and now
have private plunge pools on
the deck. From £909 per person,
all-inclusive. andbeyond.com
T H E N I C I , D O R S E T, E N G L A N D
The Nici has brought Miami to
the English coast, transforming
a tired old hotel into a slice of
cheery Americana. Tropical
energy infuses the property,
from the cabana-lined outdoor
pool to the bold foliage wallpaper.
From £230, B&B. thenici.com
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
18 5
H OT E L AWA R D S
BUDGET BREAK
W I N N I N G H OT E L S T H AT P ROV E A G R E AT S TAY N E E D N ’ T P U T YO U O U T O F P O C K E T
Leven, England
Runners-up
Once upon a time, Manchester’s Gay Village was where
you went for a good time, before retiring to bed elsewhere.
But all that’s changed with the unveiling of the Leven
hotel, right alongside buzzing Canal Street. The red-brick
walls of this former cotton warehouse have witnessed
various reincarnations over the years, including stints
as a brewery and comedy club. Its latest transformation
into a 42-room hotel celebrates the industrial heritage of
the building, with the guest entrance in the loading dock,
and preserved steel-framed Crittall windows throughout.
Room rates have been kept in check and there’s an extra
incentive for the budget-conscious digital nomad: a
spacious communal lounge with wooden canteen tables
providing the perfect perch to work-from-hotel. If you’d
rather relax than hunker over a laptop, a lobby bar serves
cocktails until late. There’s also a large selection of room
types available, from doubles with king-size beds to duplex
penthouse suites with lounge areas and kitchens. From
£89, room only. liveleven.com
N Ō S TO S S É R I F O S , G R E E C E
Y I N G ’ N F LO, H O N G KO N G
One look at this steal of a boutique
hotel on the southern cusp of the
wild, olive-cloaked island of Serifos
and you’ll be glad you took that
two-hour ferry ride from Piraeus.
The minimalist-cool bolthole
slots seamlessly into its natural
environment, with interiors
capturing the dazzling white light
and intense blues of the Aegean.
Nature is woven into the hotel’s
sustainable ethos, with recycling,
solar panels and thermal insulation
upping the eco credentials. And
you’re just a flip-flop away from the
slosh of the sea on the great creamy
curve of Livadakia Beach. From €61
(£52), B&B. nostosboutiquehotel.com
Ying’nFlo has a prime location in
the shopping and eating district of
Wan Chai. And there are plenty of
other reasons to stay here: bright
pastel-hued rooms with mountain
views and mini-kitchens that you
can actually cook a proper meal
in. It’s a good place to meet fellow
travellers, too, perhaps over the
foosball table in the music lounge
or in the cafe. Novel vending
machines sell snacks, drinks,
condoms and dog leads. Art is a
theme here, seen in wall murals
by Berlin-based artist Josephine
Rais and rainbow-shaped floor
lamps. From HK$880 (£88), room
only. yingnflo.com
The lobby bar at Leven in Manchester
has mid-century design touches
Right from top: De Durgerdam has 11
rooms and three suites; seasonal food at
De Durgerdam’s De Mark restaurant
186
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
BOUTIQUE PAD
O U R T H R E E C O S Y B O LT H O L E S A R E
S M A L L B U T P E R F E C T LY F O R M E D
De Durgerdam, Netherlands
Still within the municipality of Amsterdam,
this 17th-century lakeside getaway in the
coastal village of Durgerdam is the perfect
antidote to city life. Built as an inn for
fishermen and sailors in 1664, the clapboard
construction — set right on the waterfront
— has seen many iterations, and was even a
regular haunt of Dutch Prince Henrik in the
19th century. The wood-lined restaurant is a
draw even if you’re not staying at the hotel,
with simple menus of barbecue herring or
roasted cod with mussels crafted by Richard
van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot, two local
chefs who have worked in Michelin-starred
restaurants. Meanwhile, the 14 bedrooms
subtly reference the fishing village surrounds
with decorative shells, wavy wood headboards
and soothing tones in ochre and green. From
€305 (£262), room only. dedurgerdam.com
Runners-up
V E R M E L H O H OT E L , P O RT U G A L
In the sleepy fishing village of Melides comes
an unusual addition — a boutique hotel owned
by shoe royalty Christian Louboutin. The 13
bedrooms feature parquet flooring, one-ofa-kind artworks, patterned tiles and delicate
frescoes. Sophisticated touches come via the
Indian Lounge — complete with gilded tables
and peach sofas — and a garden designed
by Louis Benech, responsible for recent
landscaping at Versailles. Life in the village
is slow and unbuttoned, making it the perfect
setting for long lunches and wild walks — you
can leave the stilettos at home. From €400
(£344), B&B. vermelhohotel.com
IMAGES: HEIKO PRIGGE; STUDIO UNFOLDED
N O 1 7 T H E P ROM E N A D E , S C OT L A N D
In the coastal town of Oban, this hotel majors
in classic Scottish hospitality and has plenty of
inviting cosy corners and flickering fireplaces.
There are only seven bedrooms, which mix
vintage pieces with modern metallics, yet
there are five dining options right on site,
from an Italian restaurant to an intimate
residents’ salon. After tucking into Isle of Mull
scallops, order a glass of something cold and
grab a seat at the outdoor bar overlooking the
neighbouring isle of Kerrera. From £145, B&B.
no17thepromenade.com
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
187
BIRDFY
BAMBOO COLLECTION
Birds in Sight, Love in mind
Birdfy Feeder Bamboo and Birdfy Nest
respresent a real advance on the original
Birdfy, as they’re more environmentally
friendly and sustainable compared with
plastics or other words.
www.birdfy.com
EVENTS
DRINKS
& S N AC K S
I N C LU D E D
TR AVEL GEEKS
FE STIVAL S , FORE STS
& FL AVOU RS OF TOBAGO
Join us in central London’s Arboretum members’ club,
where local guides and travel specialists will help you
unlock the treasures of this vibrant Caribbean island
LIV E E V E NT: 9 N OV E MB E R 2 02 3
LO N DO N | 1 8 . 3 0 -2 0. 3 0 | £ 1 5
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T I C K E T S O N SA L E N OW AT N GT R . U K / TO BAG O
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UPCOMING EVENTS
T H E M A S T E RC L A S S E S
F O O D F E S T I VA L 2 0 2 4
We’ll be back in the new year
The National Geographic Traveller
with another series of workshops
Food Festival is set to return to
dedicated to demystifying the
London’s Business Design Centre
art of travel writing and travel
between 20-21 July 2024. For a
photography. Remember, if you
taste of what to expect from next
missed our September sessions,
year’s event, check out some of the
recordings are still available to buy
highlights of the 2023 edition at
at ngtr.uk/recordings0923
foodfestival.natgeotraveller.co.uk
IN THE NE X T I S SU E
THE COOL LIST 2024
Our round-up of the most exciting destinations to visit in 2024
provides all the travel inspiration you’ll need for the year ahead
— from city breaks accessed by new train routes to national
parks that make it easier than ever to connect with nature
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At Dr. Squatch, all of our personal care products are of natural
Wethe
cannot
the quality
the finalexceptional
print for files natural
origin (per
ISOguarantee
standard).
That of
means
supplied
outside of these specifications.
Colour
variations
ingredients
and naturally-derived
fragrances
that
smellwill
awesome.
occur if your files do not utilise the colour profile and respect
guidelines outlined above.
We neverDISCOUNT
use the CODES
harmful ingredients
used
traditional
: do not use often
NG , NGT
or by
NATGEO
or
anything
the have
reflectsathe
National roster
Geographic
Brand. ingredients
brands. In
fact, we
detailed
of no-go
that we use to keep our products safe.
Men have specific needs. That's why we formulate products for
men through performance, scent, and avoidance of estrogenics
(estro-what?).
Bleed 220mm x 307mm
Extend all background colour and images to the final bleed line.
MEN’S NATURAL SOAP
Our Cold Process Soap is handmade in the USA from natural oils and natural ingredients.
Trim (210 X 297mm / 8.25 x 11.7”)
Background should not end at this line, but extend to bleed.
All creative past this line will not show in print.
Type (190 X 277mm / 7.5 x 10.9”)
Keep all text inside this area.
SMELLS LIKE BARREL
AGED BOURBON
SMELLS LIKE A CRISP
FOREST WATERFALL
SMELLS LIKE AN OLD
GROWTH FOREST
SMELLS FRESH AND WOODY
WITH A CRISP FINISH
MEDIUM GRIT
ZERO GRIT
HEAVY GRIT
MEDIUM GRIT
Please delete this template from your artwork before PDFing.
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@DRSQUATCH
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I N BOX
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O U R FE AT U R E S ? D I D
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A DV EN T U R E ? L E T U S
K N OW W H AT YO U T H I N K
O F T H E M AGA Z I N E A N D
BE IN WITH A CHANCE
TO W I N T H E G R E AT
P R IZ E B ELOW.
Get in touch
inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk
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subscriptions?
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A tram trundles over the Danube in
or call 01858 438787
Budapest, which can be visited by
train while travelling across Europe
from London to Istanbul
WIN
S TA R L E T T E R
Helping hand
I adore the idea of travelling across Europe by
rail. I’ve done it a little, but it’s largely been
limited to France — once as a student and
once to get to an England Women’s World
Cup match. Your piece ‘London to Istanbul
by Train’ (Big Trip, September 2023) whetted
my appetite to do more rail-bound exploring
through uncharted territory. I’d very much
relish a more leisurely trip to Istanbul
— with more highlights along the way
than just the airport duty-free shop.
I just have to write to say how much the
August edition of National Geographic
Traveller (UK) has inspired me to get out
there and see the world. I’m in hospital in
London having had brain surgery, and the
volunteer services for patients at University
College London Hospital gave me a magazine
during their rounds of the wards. What a joy
it is to get inspired after being stuck for so
long. Thank you doesn’t begin to explain how
reading and looking at the beautiful pictures
lifted my spirits just when I needed it.
LISA BEST
JULIEANN WISE
Rail away
A Gomatic
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DAV I D G I L L
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A smart strap system turns it
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IMAGE: GETTY
Change of plans
I thought your article ‘On the Gaucho Trail’
(In Pictures, September 2023) was truly
inspiring — so much so that I’ve ditched
plans for a city slicker-type experience and
will be aiming to go more authentic and offgrid instead. It just goes to show that travel
can broaden the mind, even when you’re not
on the road. Thank you to photographer and
writer David De Vleeschauwer for a most
fascinating article and beautiful images.
waterproof materials are
the expansion system and
full-perimeter zipper make
N OV E M B ER 2 0 2 3
193
C R OAT I A
HOW I GOT THE S HOT
TR AVEL PH OTO G R APH ER RI C HARD JA ME S TAYLO R O N C AP T U RI N G
D U B ROVN I K’ S G O LD EN H O U R FO R O U R O C TO B ER I S S U E
Tell us about this image. This is the view from
mountain. With the light so low, the town
the peak of Mount Srđ at dusk, looking out
was very dark in comparison to the sea, so I
across the Old Town and harbour of Dubrovnik.
used a neutral density grad filter to maintain
The city’s historical core has remained virtually
a sense of balance, creating a unity between
untouched since it was completed in the 13th
foreground and background.
century, and I was keen to convey its distinctly
ethereal atmosphere. Looking to capture the
What challenges did you face? The lighting was
magic of the walled city, I chose to shoot the
quite tricky with this shot. As I was shooting
view as the streetlamps in the Old Town were
into the sunset, I needed to wait until the sun
flickering into life.
had dipped beyond the horizon before I could
achieve an image without lens flare. By this
How did you achieve the shot? Drones have
made it much easier to achieve this kind of
aerial view, but I opted to use my camera,
which I always find provides me with a wider
range of shots. Carrying my Canon 5DS along
with a 24-70mm f2.8 lens at a focal length of
70mm, I took a cable-car to the top of the
I
time, however, the available light was minimal,
so I mounted my camera on a tripod to avoid
camera shake, attached a cable release and
What advice would you give someone
starting out in travel photography? If you
want to be trusted, you need to prove you
can see assignments through to completion.
Set yourself some projects and shoot them as
though they were real. Try to work in a visually
consistent way, taking the time to develop
your eye. Consider how the images could work
in a layout — perhaps even put one together
after the shoot. Before long, the techniques
and processes that you need to make a good
feature will start to feel like second nature,
by which time you’re well on your way to a
successful career.
set the exposure time to around four seconds.
After this, it was just a question of waiting until
View the full shoot and interview online at
the natural and artificial light sources were in
nationalgeographic.com/travel
perfect harmony.
@richardjamestaylor
S U B M I T YO U R P H OTO G R A P H Y F O R C O N S I D E R AT I O N AT P H O T O G R A P H Y@ N AT G E O T R AV E L L E R . C O . U K
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