1
Picture 1

Begin by stringing ten beads and passing the needle
up through bead 7.

String one bead and pass the needle up through
bead 5.

String one bead and pass the needle up through
bead 3.

String one bead and pass the needle up through
bead 1. Picture 1 illustrates this.

You don't need to make a stop bead or secure the
end of the thread in any
other way. Simply make a
knot around the thread,
as shown in Picture 1.

Continue beading the first half of the necklace, as shown in
Picture 2 on the right. The peyote stitch used here is
described in more detail in the BASIC TECHNIQUES
chapter. Upon reaching the desired length, attach your fa-
vorite clasp. I will give you an example on how to attach a
clasp in the next chapter.

Picture 2

Now, go back to the starting point, and turn the
beadwork over. Unwind the necessary length from the
spindle and cut the thread off. as shown in Picture 3.
Thread the needle and proceed with the second half of
the necklace.

The gray beads shown in Picture 4 are the
existing beads, while the white numbered
beads are the new ones. Continue beading
the second half of the necklace in the same
way. When the desired length is reached,
attach the clasp on the other side of the
necklace.
INTRODUCTION

This trick will reduce the number of knots, but it is unfortunately impossible to avoid
them entirely. Of course there is also the common problem of adding a new thread to
an unfinished piece.

ADDING A NEW THREAD

None of the necklaces in this book can be
finished using just one thread. Whether or
not you know of a good technique of
attaching new thread to your beadwork. I
have provided mine as an example.

At first you will need to finish the old thread.
To do this, there should be a comfortable
length of thread to work with — don't wait
until the last moment. When the thread has
about five inches left, start weaving the old
thread back into your beadwork, as shown
in Picture 5. After 1 - 1,5 ", cut the thread
off as close to the beadwork as possible.

To add a new thread, unwind
about six inches and thread the
needle, without cutting the
thread off the spindle. Starting
from the last bead, weave it in,
as shown in Picture 6. Be
careful not to use the same
path used to end the old
thread. After 1 - 1,5", cut the
thread off. Cut the necessary
length of thread from the
spindle, thread the needle and
continue your work.
ATTACHING A CLASP

At first I will show how to attach a clasp to a
V-shape peyote necklace. When you reach
the desired length, string four beads, as
shown in Picture 7, step I, and bring the
needle through the hole in the clasp. Pass
the needle down through the bead 4 and
string three more beads. Following the
beadwork, come back to bead 1, as shown
in Picture 7\ step II. Repeat this three times
for strength. Finish the thread off, as shown
in Picture 5. Make sure to cut the thread as
close to your beadwork as possible.

An example of attaching a clasp to a netted necklace is demonstrated in Picture 8. When
you reach the desired length of your necklace, string three beads and bring the needle
through the hole in the clasp. Pass the needle back through bead 3 and string one more
bead. Following the beadwork, complete a circle. Repeat this three times for strength. It

is important to try to select a different path
every time.

Now you will need to finish off the thread.
Pass the needle through a couple of beads
and make a loop around the existing thread,
between two beads. Next, pass the needle
through this loop to form a knot. Pass through
several more beads, and make another knot.
Repeat this five to ten times before cutting the
thread off.
BASIC TECHNIQUES

In this chapter I will describe, in detail, the peyote stitch, vertical netting stitch, flat square
stitch and the coraling technique, because they are used in several projects in this book.
Some necklaces will require different techniques, which I will explain when a particular
project calls for it.

I won't cover all the minor aspects of the basic stitches, but will give you enough information to
complete all the necklaces in this book. If you are familiar with these stitches you can skip
this chapter. You can always come back to it later, if necessary.

PEYOTE STITCH

Peyote stitch can be very confusing for beginners, especially if you need to follow an intricate
pattern. The confusion starts from the very beginning, when you learn that the first row is
actually two rows. The rows in peyote stitch are not continuous as in flat square stitch,
which makes it harder to keep track of where you are in the pattern. Instructions also differ
depending on whether you use even-count or odd-count peyote. Many books are devoted
entirely to this stitch, but I will try to simplify it as much as possible.

In this book we will be using peyote stitch to create petals and leaves for different flowers.
To make a leaf shape you will need to learn how to increase and decrease the number of
beads in your beadwork.

Picture 10

1 will start by showing you the basic peyote stitch. Start by stringing seven beads, and then
pass the needle up through bead 5. See Picture 10. step I.

String one bead and pass	the	needle	up through bead 3.	See	Picture	10,	step	II.

String one bead and pass	the	needle	up through bead 1.	See	Picture	10,	step	III.

You have completed the first three rows.

String one bead and pass	the	needle	down through bead	9.

String one bead and pass	the	needle	down through bead	8.
String one bead and pass the needle down through bead 7. See Picture 10, step IV.

You have completed the forth row.

String one bead	and	pass the needle	up	through	bead	12.

String one bead	and	pass the needle	up	through	bead	11.

String one bead	and	pass the needle	up	through	bead	10. See Picture 10. step V.

You have completed	the fifth row.

Now I'd like to show how we can decrease
the number of beads from the top. Your
thread is coming out of bead 10. Pass the
needle down through bead 15 without string-
ing a new bead, as you did before, and fin-
ish the row. See Picture 11, step I. In
the next row you won t be going all the
way up. After passing the needle up
through bead 16, pass it down through
bead 19 and finish the row. See Picture
11, step II. The next example, illustrated
in Picture 12. shows how to make a
steeper decrease. Your thread is coming
out of bead 10. Pass the needle down
through beads 15, 11 and 14 and finish
the row. Sometimes you will have to de-
crease the number of beads from the top
and from the bottom. Picture 13 illus-
trates this. As you can see, it's very easy
to create any shape with peyote stitch.
These examples will help us to make leaves
with smooth edges.

It’s very important to keep an even tension
throughout your work; uneven tension can
create noticeably unattractive irregularities.

Picture 11

Picture 12

Picture 13
VERTICAL NETTING STITCH

The vertical netting stitch is very
simple and quick to do, which
often makes it the beginners'
favorite. It will be used as a
base in several models later in
the book. The diagrams in
Picture 14 show step by step
how the stitch works.

Start by stringing twenty-four
seed beads, alternating main
color beads (mcb) with accent
color beads (acb) according to
Picture 14, step I. Pass the
needle up through bead 13. The
circle formed is called the
bottom turnaround. String
two mcb, followed by one acb,
then two more mcb and pass the

19

Picture 14

needle up through bead 7.
String two mcb, followed by
one acb, then two more mcb
and pass the needle up
through bead 1. as shown in
Picture 14, step II. Beads
1, 7 and 13 are called
connection points. String five
mcb, one acb. and two mcb and
pass the needle down through
bead 32. The circle formed is
called the top turnaround —
see Picture 14, step III. String
one mcb, one acb. one mcb
and pass the needle up through
bead 1 (see Picture 14. step
III). String two mcb. one acb

and two more mcb. Pass the needle down through bead 27. String two mcb. one acb and
two more mcb. Pass the needle down through bead 22. String five mcb, one acb, and two
mcb and pass the needle up through bead 60. See Picture 14. step IV. String two mcb,
followed by one acb, then two more mcb. Pass the needle up through bead 45. String two
mcb. followed by one acb, then two more mcb, and pass the needle up through bead 40.
the necklace you are making is not very
wide, reducing the number of beads in the
top turnarounds will be sufficient. The
diagram in Picture 15 demonstrates this.

If you need to make a wider necklace, in
addition to reducing the number of beads
in the top turnarounds you will need to
increase the number of beads in the
bottom turnarounds. The diagram in
Picture 16 demonstrates this.

I've covered only the basics of the vertical
netting stitch in this chapter. Later in the
book I will demonstrate other ways to
modify it to create different effects.

See Picture 14, step V. Repeat from the step
III as many times as you need to reach the
desired length.

The previous diagram will help to create a
straight, netted stripe, which can be used for

bracelets or chokers. For necklaces it needs to
be modified to curve around the neck. We can
achieve this effect by changing the number of
beads between connection points, although if
TUBULAR PEYOTE

This stitch, which is also known as round or circular peyote,
will be used to make stems for the flowers. Some flowers in
this book will have the stem done in other stitches — I will
explain these later.

Unlike flat peyote, tubular peyote is always even-count,
which means you start with an even number of beads in the
first row.

Start by stringing six beads. Bring the needle through bead
1 a second time to form a circle. Your needle now comes
out of the first bead you originally strung. See Picture 1 7,
step I. As with all other peyote stitches, the first row will
become two rows as soon as you finish the next round —
one row of six beads would transform into two rows of
three beads each. The next row and all consequent rows
will also consist of three beads. String one bead and bring
the needle through bead 3. String one bead and bring the
needle through bead 5. String one bead and bring the needle
through bead 1. This completes the third row. See Picture
17, step 11.In flat peyote it is obvious where the rows end,
but in tubular peyote you will need to make a step up to
get to the next row. To make one, bring the needle through
the first bead of the previous row—in our case bring the
needle through bead 7. See Picture 17, step III. The top
picture shows the view from the top, while the bottom
picture shows the view from the side. It takes some prac-
tice to recognize the moment when you need to make a
step up. It is best for beginners to simply count beads —
after every three new beads you will need to make a step
up. After a while you will get used to how the end of the
row looks and will automatically step up into the next
row.String the first bead and bring the needle through the
2nd bead in row 2.String a second bead and bring the
needle through the 3rd bead in row 2.String a third bead
and bring the needle through the 1st bead in row 2 and the
first bead in row 3. This completes the forth row.

Continue beading following the same pattern until you reach

the desired length. Some people like to use a support for tubular peyote work. You can use
a knitting needle or a wire. I don’t use one, but you can experiment and see if it will make
the process easier for you.
CORALING TECHNIUE

My first book was devoted entirely
to this technique very popular in
Russia, exploring many variations
and applications of it. The
technique got its name because of
its resemblance to coral, but you
may also find it similar to a tree
branch. Add some big round beads
at the ends of the Y-shape branches
and you will see a cluster of
berries. You can see how it can be
useful in a floral design.

The technique is very easy to learn,
and you might even be familiar with
one of the variations of this
technique — the branched fringe. In
this chapter I will show how it is done
in detail.

Start by stringing fifteen mcb and one
acb. Pass the needle up through
beads 1 and 2 (see Picture 18, step
I). String two mcb and one acb, then
pass the needle through beads 4 and
3, and finally pass the needle through
beads 5 and 6 (see Picture 18, step
II). This completes the first Y-shape
branch. String four mcb and one acb,
and pass the needle through beads
10 and 9 (see Picture 18, step III).
String two mcb and one acb, pass
the needle through beads 12, 11, 8,
7. This completes the second Y-
shape branch.Pass the needle
through beads 13 and 14, (see Pic-
ture 18, step IV). Create the third

Y-shape branch and pass the needle through beads 21 and 22 (see Picture 18, step V).
Create the forth Y-shape branch and pass the needle through beads 29 and 30 (see Picture
18, step VI). Create the last Y-shape branch and pass the needle through beads 37 and

38 (see Picture 18, step VII). The main difficulty with learning this technique is to use

the right thread tension. Too much tension will make the coral branches rigid, while
not enough tension will make them sloppy. Unfortunately it’s not something that can
be easily taught—it can only be gained with practice.
“AUTUMN” LARIAT

This lariat is my most popular design—it’s simple to make, but the design leaves plenty of
room for modifications. You can replace the gemstone beads used in the piece with small
flowers or other beaded floral elements. You can also vary the number and size of the leaves
and their placement on the cord. You can even use the netted leaves shown in the “Wild
Flowers" necklace instead of peyote leaves to create a completely different piece. I use five
or six different “autumn” colors, but you can use less colors or even just one color. You
don't have to worry about following the patterns for the leaves exactly. Use the diagrams
provided only as examples, as there are no two leaves alike in nature.

Materials needed:

30g “autumn" color seed beads size 11°

7	big round beads (1 use green or brown jasper beads)

8	small round beads

Estimated time:

10	- 15 hours, depending on your experience.

All the leaves for the necklace are done separately. You will need to make nine large leaves
and ten small ones—they are done using peyote stitch. If you need help with this, see the
detailed description of the stitch in the BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter. If you are using
many different colors, you can make one leaf brown and yellow, one brown and red, one
red and yellow and so on. Use your imagination to create your own unique necklace.

MAKING LEAVES

To make a small leaf, leave the thread on the spindle and start by stringing twelve beads.
Continue beading according to any of the diagrams in Picture 19. When you are done with

the first half, work the thread
down beadwork to hide the
end. You can find instructions
on how to finish off the thread
in the Useful Tips chapter.

Continue with the second half
of the leaf. You can use the
diagram in Picture 20 to help
you get started on the second
half. The existing beads are
faded in the picture.
When you are done with the second half of the leaf,
use the remaining thread to connect both halves, as
shown on the diagram in Picture 20. With the thread
coming out of bead 1, pass the needle down through
bead 2. Pass the needle up through bead 3. Pass the
needle down through bead 4. Pass the needle up
through bead 5, pass the needle down through bead
6 and finally pass the needle up through bead 3. Don't
cut off the thread; we’ll use it later to attach the leaf
to the cord. Make nine more small leaves,
alternating the patterns shown in Picture 19.

Picture 20

For the large leaf string eighteen
beads and start beading according
to the diagram in Picture 21. When
you are done with the second half,
you will need to connect both halves
the same way as for the small leaves.
Leave the long thread, which will be
used to attach the leaf to the cord
later. Make eight more large leaves,
alternating the patterns shown in
Picture 21.

MAKING A CORD

When you have completed all the leaves required, you will need to
create the main branch, to which we will attach the leaves and
"berries”. You can use just a string of beads. If you decide to do this,
use a larger size of seed beads with big holes in them, because you will
need to make several passes. Originally I designed this lariat in this way,
but for this book 1 instead made the cord using the tubular peyote stitch,
described in the Basic Techniques chapter. For a lariat the cord has to
be flexible, so that you will be able to tie it in the front, which is why 1
made it with just two beads in each row. Having fewer beads makes it
harder to recognize the peyote pattern—this is why I will give you step-
by-step instructions for the cord.
'AUTUMN" LARIAT

Leave the thread on the spindle (we will use it later to attach “berries”) and string two beads.
Pass the needle through bead 1 to complete the circle as shown in Picture 22, step I. Pass
through this circle one more time and tie a knot.

String a new bead (bead 3) and pass the needle through bead 2.

String a new bead (bead 4) and pass the needle through bead 1.

You've completed the first two rows. Now you will need to make a step up: bring the
needle through bead 3. See Picture 22. step II.

String a new bead (bead 5) and bring the needle through bead 4.

String a new bead (bead 6) and bring the needle through bead 3.

You’ve completed the third row. Now you will need to make a step up: bring the needle
through bead 5. See Picture 22. step 111.

String a new bead (bead 7) and bring the needle through bead 6.

String a new bead (bead 8) and bring the needle through bead 5.

You've completed the fourth row. Now you will need to make a step up: bring the needle
through bead 7. See Picture 22. step IV.

Repeat these steps until you reach the desired length.

ATTACHING "BERRIES"

When you are done with the main branch,
use the remaining threads on both ends of it
to attach “berries”. For the first big “berry”
string ten seed beads, one big gemstone bead
and one more seed bead. Pass the needle up
through the gemstone bead and all the seed
beads to get to the main branch—see Picture
23. Follow the beadwork to the point, where
the next “berry” needs to be attached. You
will always use ten seed beads to attach
“berries ”. Use Picture 24 to see where they
should be located. This diagram should be used
only as a reference; if your necklace is much
longer or shorter than mine, you should
adjust the numbers accordingly
MV BEADED GARDEN

ЖЧ. ______-_____-__—

ATTACHING LEAVES

Lay out the main branch with the "berries’' attached to it on a flat surface, with the leaves
next to it, as shown in Picture 24. If you have used many different colors for your leaves,
try to alternate them for the most attractive look. When you are satisfied, use the diagram in
Picture 23 to see how all the pieces are connected. Now we will attach the leaves. Take the
first big leaf and, using the thread coming out of it, string eight beads, bring the needle
through the bead at the point where you want to attach it to the main branch, and go back
to the leaf, where you will need to tie a knot and hide the thread in the beadwork. See
instructions on how to finish off thread in the USEFUL TIPS chapter. To attach a small leaf
you will need to string six beads. Continue attaching leaves using the diagram in Picture 24.

5-6"

Picture 24
“TULIP” NECKLACE

The Tulip necklace is done with a Memory wire inserted into the stem, although if you use
a straight wire instead you will be able to put it in a vase to brighten your home or give as
everlasting bouquet to someone you love. Consider making it in a different color to sent a
subtle message. As a necklace it will be a sure way to attract attention and compliments.

Materials needed:

1	oz of red seed beads, size 11°

2	oz of green seed beads, size 11°

12 yellow seed beads, size 11°

Memory wire about 20" long.

Estimated Time:

20-30 hours, depending on your experience.

MAKING A FLOWER

The flower consists of six separately done petals connected
together. Petals of the flower are done using peyote stitch. If you
need help using the stitch or don’t know how to make a decrease,
see the BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter for more information on
peyote stitch. Thread the needle, leaving the thread on the spindle
and start by stringing 33 beads. Make the first half of the petal as
shown in Picture 25. Finish off the thread as shown in Picture 5
in the USEFUL TIPS chapter. When you are done with the first
half of the petal, turn your beadwork over and, using the thread
from the spindle, make the second half. The diagram in Picture
26 will help you get started. When you are finished with the
second half, don't cut off the remaining thread — it can be
used to connect petals. When six identical petals are done you
can start connecting them.

CONNECTING PETALS INTO A FLOWER

Connect three petals according to the diagram in Picture 27,
looping several times for strength (see the enlarged frame for
details).

Connect the other three petals in the same way—you will now
have two “half-flowers”. Insert one into another and connect
the beads of the bottom rows of each “half-flower” together.
Picture 26

Picture 27

MAKING A STEM

The stem of the tulip is done using the tubular peyote stitch, which is described in detail in
the Basic Techniques chapter. The stem for the 15" necklace should be about 20" long.
Leave a tail about six-inches long, just enough to weave it in later after the stem is done, and
make a stem of the desired length. For the last row use three yellow seed beads. They will
become part of the pistil.

When the stem is ready, insert the Memory wire into it and cut it to the proper length. With
the six inch thread we left when started, gather three bottom beads together and tie them
up to close the opening on one end and weave the thread in to finish it off. Make a pistil on
the other end, as shown next.

MAKING A PISTIL

Gather three top yellow
beads together (the gray
beads in Picture 28) and tie
them up just like you did on
the bottom of the stem. With
the thread coming out of
bead 1, string three yellow

Picture 28

beads and pass the needle back through bead 1 and bead 2. See Picture 28, step II. String
three yellow beads and pass the needle back through bead 2 and bead 3. See Picture 28,
step Ill. String three yellow beads and pass the needle back through bead 3 and bead 1. See
Picture 28, step IV. Finish off the thread.
ATTACHING FLOWER TO THE STEM

After you are done with a pistil, you will need to create a bulge about one inch below it,
which will help to keep the flower in place. The bulge is done in the same color as the stem.
Start by threading through the first bead on the selected row of the stem. With your thread
coming out of bead 1 on the selected row, string three beads and pass the needle through
bead 2, string three more beads, and bring the needle through bead 3. string three beads
and bring the needle through bead 1, 4, 5 and 6. See Picture 29, step 1.

Now string two beads and bring the needle through beads 7, 8 and 9.

String two beads and bring the needle through beads 10, 11 and 12.

String two beads and bring the needle through beads 4, 5, 6, 15 and 16.

This completes the second row. See Picture 29, step II.

String three beads and bring	the	needle through	bead 8.

String three beads and bring	the	needle through	beads 17 and	18.

String three beads and bring	the	needle through	bead 11.

String three beads and bring	the	needle through	beads 13 and	14.

String three beads and bring	the	needle through	bead 5.

String three beads and bring	the	needle through	beads 15 and	16.

This completes the third row. See Picture 29, step III.

Picture 29

After you are done with the bulge,
insert the stem into the opening in the
flower, so that the pistil and the bulge
will be inside of the flower. Then make
another bulge, using the same diagrams,
right below the flower. See Picture 30.
Picture 34

the leaf, leave the long thread; we will
use it to create branches later.

The next step is to make two thirteen-
bead leaves using the diagram in Picture
34. They are done the same way as the
seventeen-bead leaf, but note that the
thirteen-bead leaves are asymmetrical.
Connect the halves of the leaves the same
way, finishing off one end of the thread
and leaving the other for future use.

The fifteen-bead leaf is done in a
different color than other leaves (the
same as the base of the necklace. Make
it as shown in Picture 35, but don’t
connect the halves of the fifteen-bead
leaf yet.

continue with the second half of the leaf, as
shown in Picture 33. To make this easier for
you I have shaded the existing beads gray. When
you are done with the second half, you will
need to connect both halves, as shown in the
diagram. With the thread coming out of bead
1, pass the needle down through bead 2. Pass
the needle up through bead 3. Pass the needle
down through bead 4. Pass the needle up
through bead 5 and finally pass the needle down
through bead 6. After connecting the halves of


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Picture 36

Now we will make the V-shape base of the
necklace, which is done with the same color
bugles as the fifteen-bead leaf. Start beading
from the center leaving the thread on the
spindle. See Picture 36, step I. Bead according
to the diagram until you reach the desired length.
Attach the clasp as shown in Picture 36. step
II. Detailed instructions on how to attach a
clasp are provided in the USEFUL TIPS

Picture 37

chapter.Turn your beadwork over
and, using the thread left on the
spindle, make the other half of the

Picture 38

necklace in exactly the same way.
You can use Picture 33 to help you
with the second half. Now attach the
clasp. We have all the pieces ready
now and can start assembling the
necklace. Lay all four leaves on a flat
surface as shown in Picture 37. Now
you can connect two halves of the
fifteen-bead leaf together the same
way you connected other leaves.

Don’t cut off the thread, you can use
it to create branches. Connect leaves
together at the places marked with

black dots. Insert the base of the

necklace in the openings of the leaves
as shown in Picture 38.
Attach leaves to the base of the necklace at the places marked with black dots.

You will need to create three coral branches embellished with cat's eyes beads. The
numbers 1, 2 and 3 in Picture 40 mark the starting points of the branches. The branches
coming out of point 1 and point 2 are twenty-six beads long. See the second diagram
in Picture 39.

Picture 39

The branch coming out of point 3
is thirty-four beads long. See the
first diagram in Picture 39. You
can use the thread remaining from
connecting the halves of the leaves
to make branches. Branches are
done using the coraling technique.
See more information about it in the
BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter. The
only difference between the ex-
ample in that chapter and the one
you need to make now is that the
cat’s eyes beads are added to each
end of Y-shape branches.

Attach the ends of the branches to
the points marked A, В and C in
Picture 40.

Picture 40
“GOLDEN TRIO” NECKLACE

This necklace is one of my favorites—it is very simple, yet elegant and unusual. You will
learn how to make very realistic leaves using peyote stitch and coraling technique. All the
cords for this necklace are done using flat peyote stitch. I really like this method and I hope
you will enjoy it too. A cord made this way is more rigid and keeps the shape better, which
is important for this particular design.

Materials needed:

30g gold seed beads size 11°

7g gold seed beads size 9°

7g gold seed beads size 13°

Estimated time:

10-15 hours, depending on your experience.

MAKING CORDS

You will need to make three separate cords — two about twelve inches long and one about
seven inches long. If you want your necklace to be of a different length, try to keep the same
ratio between cords. To make the first long cord, leave a tail about six inches long — just
enough to finish it off later — and
string about twelve inches of size 13°
gold beads. If you need more infor-
mation on peyote stitch, see the

BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter.
Make five rows as shown in Picture
41, step 1. Use gold seed beads size
9° for the last sixth row. Connect
the first and last rows as shown in
Picture 41, step II.

Attach your favorite clasp and finish
off all the threads.

Make another cord exactly the same
way with the clasp on the end. When
you finish the seven inch cord, finish
off one thread and leave the other
one hanging for now. You can twist
the cords to achieve a slightly spiral
effect as you can see on the
photograph on page 44. The cords
will keep their shape.
CONNECTING CORDS

The diagram in Picture 42 shows how the cords
are connected in the center. Use a new thread and
connect two twelve inch long cords as shown in
the diagram. Please note how 1 connect the cords
through the size 9° beads. After connecting three
or four beads, pass the needle through several
beads on the left cord. Always follow the beadwork
to make the thread undetectable. Connect the small
seven inch cord to the long left cord in the same
way. Try to attach it as close to the right cord as
possible, so there won’t be any hole at the point
of connection.

MAKING LEAVES

You will need to make three identical
leaves—you will be using three different
size beads so that the leaves curve. To
make the first leaf, leave the six inch tail
and string thirty-four beads alternating
size 11° and size 9° beads. The next,
thirty-fifth, bead should also be also size
9°. See Picture 43, step I. Bead the next
two rows using size 11° beads and the last
two rows using size 13° beads, according
to the diagram, then finish off both threads.
You can find instructions on how to
finish off a thread in the USEFUL TIPS
chapter. The half of the leaf you have
just finished will curve, as shown in
Picture 43, step II. When you are done
with the first half, leave the new thread
on the spindle and string the first thirty-
five beads, alternating size 9° and size
11° exactly the same way as for the first
half. Pass the needle up through bead 36
of the first half (see Picture 43, step II)
and continue making the second half of
the leaf using the diagram in Picture 43, step I.
When you are finished with the second half,
leave the remaining thread (you will need about
a twelve inch tail to attach the leaf to the cord).
Now we will be creating the leaf's veins. This is
done using the coraling technique.

Cut about five feet thread from the spindle, and
follow the beadwork to the last bead of the first
half (the top size 13° bead). See Picture 44.

Pass the needle down through this bead and
string thirty-one size 13° beads.

Pass the needle down through bead 36, bead
35 of the second half and bead 35 of the first
half. Pass the needle up through bead 36 and
thirteen size 13° beads you have just strung.
String six size 13° beads. Pass the needle down
through beads A and B.

Pass the needle up through bead A and the six
beads you have just strung.

Pass the needle up through the two beads on
the main branch.

Picture 44

Continue the same way using the diagram in
Picture 45.

When you reach the top of the leaf, pass the
needle down through the all thirty-one beads
on the main branch. Now you should have a
finished leaf, with two threads coming out of
the top and bottom of the leaf.

Make two more leaves exactly the same way.

Using the threads coming out of the leaves,
attach them to the cords. Use the photograph
on page 44 as an example, but you can place
the leaves in a different way as well, if you
like.
“CARNATION BOUQUET”
NECKLACE

I used two long stem carnations to make this necklace, although you can use one for a more
delicate necklace or three to give it a stronger effect. My necklace wasn't very realistic (it
was made entirely in one color), but you can make the stem and leaves green and the
flowers in a different color, especially if you want to make a decorative bouquet. You can
also use this carnation as a pin or an adornment for your favorite hat.

Materials needed:

50g purple seed beads size 11°

Estimated time:
5-8 hours per flower.

MAKING A STEM

Picture 46

The stem is done in the same way as the cord for the “Golden Trio”
necklace, except that it uses the two-drop peyote stitch. The two-drop
peyote stitch is just like the regular peyote stitch, but you treat every
pair of beads as if it were a single bead. Using two-drop peyote stitch
you will be able to
finish your work
much faster, though
if you are not very
comfortable with it
you can use any other
method to create a

stem.

make

working on the stem
easier you will need to string an even,
but not divisible by four number of

beads. I would not bother counting
them; you can remove all the extra
beads you have left after the third row.

Leave the thread on the spindle and string
about 40” of beads. Continue beading
according to the diagram in Picture 46.
When you finish the last row, connect it
to the first one, as you did for the “Golden

Picture 47
Trio" necklace. See Picture 41, step II.

Now we will add pistils to the stem. When you have connected first and last rows, use the
remaining thread to attach the pistils, as shown in Picture 47, step 1. You can use large
seed beads or any other beads at the end of each pistil. You will need to attach six pistils,
using the diagram in Picture 47, step I. Attach three more pistils to the lower level of beads
as shown in Picture 47, step II. Now you have nine pistils at the end of the stem.

MAKING A FLOWER

Each flower consists of three separate layers. To make the
first layer, leave a six inch tail and start by stringing fourteen
seed beads. Pass the needle through the first bead to form a
circle, as shown in Picture 48. step I.

Make two more rows, using tubular peyote stitch, as shown in
Picture 48. step II. If you need more information on tubular
peyote stitch, you can find it in the BASIC TECHNIQUES
chapter.

The fifth row is done with an

increase. Insert two beads
instead of one, as shown in Picture 48. step III.

Make the sixth, seventh and eight rows using the diagram in
Picture 48, step IV.

Make the ninth row using the diagram in Picture 48, step III.
Make the tenth row using the diagram in Picture 48. step V.
Make the eleventh row using the diagram in Picture 48,
step 111.

Make the twelfth and thirteenth rows using the diagram in
Picture 48, step IV.

Make the fourteenth row using the diagram in Picture 48,

Picture 48

step III.

Make the fifteenth rows using the diagram in
Picture 48, step IV.

Finish off all the threads.

To make the second layer, leave a six inch tail and
start by stringing fourteen beads. Pass the needle
through the first bead to form a circle, as shown in
Picture 48, step 1.

Make one more row in tubular peyote stitch using
the diagram in Picture 48, step II.

Make the forth row using the diagram in Picture 48,
step III.

Make the fifth and sixth rows using the diagram in
Picture 48, step IV.
Picture 48

Make the seventh row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step Ill.

Make the eighth row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step V.

Make the ninth row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step 111.

Make the tenth, eleventh and twelfth rows
using the diagram in Picture 48, step IV.

Make the thirteenth row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step III.

Make the fourteenth row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step V.

Make the fifteenth row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step III.

Make the sixteenth row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step IV.

Finish off all the threads.

To make the third layer, leave a six inch tail and start by stringing fourteen seed beads. Pass
the needle through the first bead to form a circle, as shown in Picture 48, step I.

Make one more row in tubular peyote stitch
using the diagram in Picture 48, step II.

Make the forth row using the diagram in

Picture 48, step III.

Make the fifth and sixth rows using the
diagram in Picture 48, step IV.

Make the seventh row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step III.

Make the eighth row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step V.

Make the ninth row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step III.

Make the tenth row using the diagram in
Picture 48. step IV.

Make the eleventh row using the diagram in
Picture 48, step III.

Make the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth
row using the diagram in Picture 48,
step IV.

Finish off all the threads.

Picture 48

All the flowers in my necklace are the same, but you can vary them in size by making more
or less rows using the same diagrams. Make as many flowers as you want.
MAKING LEAVES

Each of the flowers has two pairs of leaves, and each pair is
attached to a small beaded ring. The stem of the flower is
inserted into the ring. You can attach the rings to the stem or
you can let them move along the stem. The ring is done using
tubular peyote stitch, which is described in detail in the BASIC
TECHNIQUES chapter. Leave the thread on the spindle and start
by stringing fourteen beads to make six rows (in tubular peyote
stitch). The top portion of Picture 49 shows the flattened
diagram for the ring. Using the thread you have been working
with, start beading the first leaf, as shown in Picture 49. When
you are finished with it, pass the needle through the beads
surrounding bead A several time to secure the connection. Use
the thread from the spindle and follow the beadwork to get to
bead B. Make the second leaf in the same way. Make another
pair of leaves attached to the beaded ring. If you are making the
flowers for a bouquet, you can insert the stem into the rings with
the leaves and attach the rings to the stem. If you are making a
necklace, don’t attach them yet.

Picture 49

MAKING

FASTENING

RINGS

As a clasp for this necklace 1
made two netted rings. You can
find a detailed description of
the netting stitch in the BASIC

Picture 50 until you

TECHNIQUES chapter. Bead
according to the diagram in
have completed eight bottom

turnarounds. You will need to connect the last row with
the first one to form a circle. Beads A, B, and C refer to

Picture 50

the same beads on
both sides of the
diagram. The sketch in Picture 51 shows how I
assembled the necklace. After trying the necklace
on, you can determine the best place for the leaves
and attach them to the stem.
“BLUE SUMMER” NECKLACE

For most other necklaces in this book I suggest ways to modify them, but for this one I don’t
know any. Usually when 1 finish a piece, I have an idea how it can be improved, but I have
never wanted to change this one, maybe because 1 love asymmetrical designs.

This necklace was the first one in the “Four Seasons” collection 1 made. If you like this
design, you may want to see the other three necklaces. They are all available on my website.
The patterns for them are also available.

Materials needed:

Small amount lavender seed beads, size 11°

Small amount purple seed beads, size 11°	*

20g blue seed beads, size 11°

5g dark green seed beads, size 11°

20g transparent seed beads, size 11°

Estimated Time:

8-12 hours, depending on your experience.

INSTRUCTIONS

First you will need to make a 3-bead-high stripe. It can be done in flat square stitch, which
1 am not covering in this book, but you may use it if you are comfortable with it. I will show
you another way to achieve almost the same effect, though much faster. It’s actually very
similar to flat square stitch, but you go through three beads at the same time.

Start by stringing six beads. Pass the needle down through beads 1,2, and 3. See Picture
52, step I.Pass the needle up through beads 4, 5, and 6. String three beads. Pass the needle

up through beads 4, 5, and 6. See Picture 52, step II.

Pass the needle down through beads 7, 8, and 9. String three beads. Pass the needle down
through beads 7,8, and 9. See Picture 52, step III.

Since the necklace is asymmetrical, it’s hard to say where the center is. I marked the

approximate location in the diagram, but I would advise making the central part of the
necklace first and then deciding where you want the center to be and how much extra

length you need on each side.

On page 54, 55 of the book you
will find color diagrams for this
necklace, but 1 thought it would be
easier to have a separate diagram
for the top stripe, which you can
find in Pictures 53 and 54.

Leave the thread on the spindle and
start beading from the centerline to

Picture 52
the right, following the top diagram in Picture 53. When you reach the end of the top
diagram, continue from the number 1 to the right, following the bottom diagram in
Picture 53.

Center

Picture 53

Center

Picture 54

When you reach the
end of the diagram,
leave the remaining
thread, so you will be
able to finish the
necklace with it later.
Cut the long piece of
thread from the
spindle and continue
with the other half
(from the centerline
to the left), following
the top diagram in
Picture 54. When
you reach the end of
the top diagram,

continue from number 2 to the left, following the
bottom diagram in Picture 54. Leave the
remaining thread to finish the second half of the
necklace later.

When you are done with the base stripe, use a new
thread to start creating a fringe. The diagram in
Picture 55 shows how this is done. The upper part
of the diagram (above the horizontal line) is the base
part of the necklace, which you have completed.
The bottom part of the diagram (below the line) is
the fringe. You will find the color diagrams for the
fringe on page 54, 55. I suggest leaving the thread
on the spindle and starting from the right side of
the top diagram on page 54. When you reach the
end of the diagram, leave the remaining thread,

Picture 55

which you can use to finish the necklace.

Cut a long piece of the thread from the spindle and make the other half of the fringe using
the bottom diagram on page 55. When you are done with the center part of the necklace,

you can decide how much longer you want
each side to be. Use the remaining thread
to finish the necklace, using transparent
beads.When you reach the desired
length, attach the clasps on both ends, as
shown in Picture 56.

Loop through the clasp several times for
strength, and finish off the thread.
ROSE BOUQUET

In this chapter 1 will teach you how to make a rose using cloth. I used red and gold tulle for
my bouquet, but you can experiment with other types of cloth, whatever is available to you.
Keep in mind though that it should be pretty rigid, though if it isn’t, you might try starching
it. There are many applications for this rose—besides making a bouquet, as I did, you can
attach a rose to your favorite hat, make a pin out of it or use it for your other craft projects.

Materials needed per one rose:

20g red seed beads, size 11°

Red tulle

Flexible metal wire ~lmm in diameter

Estimated Time:

4-6 hours,depending on your experience.

MAKING A ROSE

Start by cutting out the figure shown
in Picture 57. The next step will be
to create a ruffled, beaded trim.

Picture 58

Thread the needle, but don’t cut the thread
off the spindle, and start attaching beads to
the top edge, as shown in Picture 58.

When you finish the first row of the beaded trim, start
the second row, as shown in Picture 59, inserting
one new bead between every two existing beads.

Picture 59
In the last, third row of the beaded
trim you will be inserting two beads
between every two existing beads, as
shown in Picture 60. This will ruffle
the beaded trim. After you are done
with the trim, hide the end of the
thread you’ve been working with.

Picture 60

Picture 61

Cut the long piece of the thread from
the spindle, thread the needle, and
make a gathering stitch along the
other three sides of the tulle, as shown
in Picture 61. Gently pull out the
thread to reduce the length of this
gathering row in half. Tie a knot, but
don't cut the remaining thread off.
Put it aside for a while.

MAKING A STEM WITH A PISTIL

The stem and the pistil for the rose are done in exactly the same way as for the “Tulip”
necklace. The stem’s length will greatly depend on your project. If you are making a
pin, you will probably need only couple of inches, but if you are making a long flower

then make a stem about ten inches long and insert a flexible metal wire approximately
1 mm in diameter. Gather three bottom beads together and tie them up to close the
opening on the bottom. Finish off the thread.

On the other side of the stem you will need to make a pistil. Use the instructions
provided in the “Tulip” Necklace chapter. In this necklace though, the pistil for the
rose is the same color as the stem. When the stem is ready, put it aside for a while and
we will make a base for the rose.
MAKING A BASE FOR THE ROSE

The base is done in vertical netting stitch. You can find a detailed explanation of the stitch
in the BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter. The whole base is done with red seed beads. I
painted some beads gray only for ease of explanation.

Leave the thread on the spindle and start beading according to the diagram in Picture 62.

Picture 63

When you reach the last vertical row, you will need to connect it to the first one. Beads 1,
2, and 3 on the left are the same beads as on the right. After passing through bead 3, you
will have a small cylinder; you should now finish off the thread you’ve been working with.
Cut a long piece of thread from the spindle and make a circular row, as shown on the
diagram in Picture 63. Complete the circle, but don’t cut the thread off. After this row, the
cylinder will transform into a bell.

ASSEMBLING THE ROSE

Now you have all the pieces ready and we can start
assembling the rose. See Picture 64. Hold the stem with
the pistil up in your left hand. With your right hand start
wrapping the tulle with the beaded trim on top around the
stem. Using the thread we had left while making the rose,
make several stitches to secure the rose to the stem. Make
sure the tulle can’t unwrap and is securely attached to the
stem. Don't worry if it doesn't look pretty, we will cover it
later. Make as many stitches as necessary. When you are
sure everything will stay together, tie a knot and cut the thread

off. Insert the stem into the base of the rose. Move the base up, as shown in Picture 64, to

cover all the stitches we made. When you are satisfied with its position, use the thread we
had left after making the base to attach the narrow side of the base to the stem. Finish off

the thread.
“LILAC” NECKLACE

In this project you will learn how to make netted leaves and a cluster of small flowers, which
we will be using for the next necklace as well. I can't suggest many ways to modify the
necklace, but you could try placing leaves differently—they can be even added to the other
end of the stem, as I did for the "Tulip" necklace.

Materials needed:

20g brown seed beads size 11°

20g purple seed beads size 11°

5g green seed beads size 11°

Estimated time:

12-18 hours, depending on your experience.

MAKING A STEM

The stem for the lilac is done using tubular peyote stitch, which is described in detail in the
BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter. The stem for the 16" necklace should be about 22" long.
Leave the thread on the spindle and make the stem of the desired length. When the stem is
ready, insert the Memory wire into it and cut it to the proper length. With the thread you
have been working with, gather the three last beads together and tie them up to close the
opening on the end. Then weave the thread in to finish it off.

MAKING BRANCHES

You will need to make ten small and ten large branches to create the cluster of lilac flowers.
Each branch is made using coraling technique; you can find more information about it in the
BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter.

Starting from the end of the stem, you will need to attach ten small branches to it, about 5-
7 mm apart, and then ten large branches, about 8-10 mm apart.

Using the thread we left on the spindle when we started making the stem, gather the three
first beads together and tie them up to close the opening on the end. Using the same thread
we can start making branches now.

String sixteen brown and four purple seed beads. Pass the needle down through the purple
bead 1. See Picture 65, step I.

String four purple seed beads and pass the needle through bead 5. See Picture 65, step II.
String four purple seed beads and pass the needle up through bead 9. Pass the needle up
through the last four brown beads. See Picture 65, step III.

String two brown seed beads and make another purple flower following steps I—III. Pass
the needle up through the four brown beads on the main branch. See Picture 65, step IV.
Picture 65

You can see the diagrams for a small branch and a large branch in Picture 66. I have only
shown three purple beads at the end of each Y-shaped branch, but there are actually twelve
of them, as shown in Picture 65.

After making the first small branch, go up 5-7 mm on the stem (always follow the beadwork
to make the thread undetectable) and make the second branch in the same way. After
making ten small branches, start making the large branches, using the rightmost diagram in
Picture 66. Don’t forget to make twelve-bead flowers at the ends.
There are three netted
leaves in this necklace.
If you need more
information on netting
stitch, see the BASIC
TECHNIQUES
chapter. You will be
using the same diagram
to make each of them.
Leave the thread on
the spindle and start
beading, according the
left most diagram in
Picture 67. When you
are finished with it,
finish off the thread and
turn the beadwork over.
Using the thread we left
on the spindle make the
second half of the leaf
using the rightmost
diagram in Picture 67

Now you will need to make a contour
row for the leaf, which will help to
improve the leaf's shape. With the
thread you've been working with,
which is coming out of bead 1, start
going through the numbered beads, as
shown in Picture 68, and inserting
beads where necessary. I colored those
beads in gray, but they should be the
same color as the leaf itself. After com-
pleting the circle, follow the beadwork
to bead 51, string three new beads, pass
the needle up through bead 52, string
three more beads and pass the needle
up through bead 53. Don’t cut the
thread off, we will use it to attach the
leaf to the stem. You have now
completed the central leaf.

Make two side leaves in the same way.
You will need to string five more beads
after passing through bead 53.
The diagram in Picture 69 shows how the leaves are attached to the stem. The central
leaf is attached using beads A and B. Bead A in Picture 69 is the same as bead 53 in
Picture 68. The side leaves are attached using beads C, D, E and F.

Picture 69
“АРРЕЕ BLOSSOM” NECKLACE

In this project you will be using the same technique as for the “Lilac” necklace.

Materials needed:

20g brown seed beads size 11°

20g pink seed beads size 11°

5g green seed beads size 11°

40 leaf-shape beads

Estimated time:

12-18 hours, depending on your experience.

MAKING A BASE

The base of this necklace is done in vertical netting stitch. See the BASIC TECHNIQUES
chapter for more information on how the stitch works. First, starting from the center, we
will make the left side of the necklace.

Leave the thread on the spindle and start beading according to the diagram in Picture 70.
To shape the necklace we will change the number of beads in the top and bottom
turnarounds. The first eight bottom turnarounds have five beads in them, the ninth
bottom turnaround has four beads, and all following bottom turnarounds have three

Picture 70

beads. The first seventeen top turnarounds have three beads, the eighteenth top
turnaround has four beads, and all the following top turnarounds have five beads.

When you reach the end of the diagram in Picture 70, continue beading using the diagram
in Picture 71. Beads A, B. and C are the same beads on both diagrams.

For now you can ignore the numbers next to some of the beads—they will be used in future
instructions.
Picture 71

After you have reached the end of the diagram above, continue beading until you reach the
desired length for the necklace. Attach a clasp, as shown in Picture 9, and finish off the
thread as described in the USEFUL TIPS chapter.

Cut about six feet thread from the spindle
and leave this thread for later—it will be
used to make flowers.Leave a new thread
on the spindle and start beading the right
side of the necklace, using the diagram in
Picture 70. When you come to bead 1,
instead of stringing a new bead, pass the
needle up through bead 1 in the left side
of the necklace, as shown in Picture 72.
After connecting the two halves of the
necklace with beads 1-5, continue bead-
ing the right side of the necklace in the
same way as the left one, using the dia-
grams in Picture 70 and Picture 71. Af-
ter reaching the desired length, attach a
clasp on the right side of the necklace.You
are now done with the base of the
necklace.

Picture 72

ATTACHING BRANCHES

Now we will use the thread we left when we started beading the base. Following the beadwork
shown in Picture 73. get to bead L2 and make the first branch, then follow the arrow on
the diagram to get to bead LI to create the next branch. Use the diagrams in Picture 70
and Picture 71 to see where each following branch needs to be attached. You will need to
make seventeen branches. I will next show they are done.
Picture 73

There are two types of branches—the ones coming out
of beads L1-L6 have a leaf-shaped bead on them, while
the ones coming out of beads B1-B3 don’t.

Let's make the first branch. With your thread coming
out of bead L2, string eighteen green and four pink
seed beads. Pass the needle down through pink bead
1. See Picture 65, step I.

String four pink seed beads and pass the needle through
bead 5. See Picture 65, step II.

String four pink seed beads and pass the needle up
through bead 9. Pass the needle up through the last
two green beads. See Picture 65, step III.

String two green seed beads and make another pink
flower, following steps 1—III. Pass the needle up
through the four green beads on the main branch.
See Picture 65, step IV.

The branch is made using coraling
technique; you can find more information
about it in the BASIC TECHNIQUES
chapter.Picture 74 shows the entire
branch with a leaf-shaped bead attached
to it. 1 have only shown three pink beads
at the ends of the Y-shaped branches, but
there are actually twelve of them, as
shown in Picture 65. The branches
coming out of beads Bl—B2 are done
in exactly the same way, but without a
leaf-shaped bead on them.The leaf can
be placed anywhere you like on the main
branch, so all the flower clusters on the
necklace are slightly different.
“BUTTERFLY” NECKLACE

This necklace is done using only netting stitch. You will see how easy it is to create any
shape using this stitch. You can embellish the bottom wings of the butterfly with a fringe if
you would like to modify the necklace.

Materials needed:

20-25g of blue seed beads, size 11°

5g of gold seed beads, size 11°

8g of royal blue seed beads, size 11°

Estimated time:

3-5 hours, depending on your experience.

Line of
symmetry

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stitch, read the Basic Techniques chapter first.
Leave the thread on the spindle and start
beading from the center of the butterfly fol-
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color diagram can be found on page 56. I
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the desired length. Attach your favorite clasp, as shown in Picture 8 in the USEFUL TIPS
chapter. If you have any thread left, leave it hanging for now.
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Picture 78

Turn your beadwork over and, using the thread from the
spindle, make the second half of the necklace in the same
way. The diagram in Picture 78 will help you to get started
with it. The existing beads are faded in the picture. After
completing the second half of the necklace and attaching
the clasp at the end, you will need to make a contour row.
If you have any thread left, you can use it now.

Starting from the clasp, make an inside contour row, as
shown in Picture 79. The bold beads are the new ones
you will be adding. The necklace itself has a contour only
inside, but the butterfly wings will need to have a contour
all the way around. You can see the whole contour row in
the color diagram on page 56. The beads that need to be

added are bold in the picture.
When you are done with the con-
tour row, work the thread down
through the beadwork a little fur-
ther, following the pattern to hide

the thread, as shown in Picture 9 in the USEFUL TIPS chapter.
Now you can put the butterfly aside for a while and we will make the
butterfly’s body.

The butterfly’s body is made using tubular peyote stitch, in exactly
the same way as the cord for the “Autumn” necklace. Leave a tail
about one foot long and make a body for the butterfly about one

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inch long. You may use two large beads at the top of the body, to look like butterfly’s
eyes, as shown on the diagram, but this isn't necessary. With the same thread you have
been using to work on the body, string eleven beads and pass the needle down through
bead A. See Picture 80. Hide the thread in the beadwork and finish it off. Using the thread
we left when we started, attach the body to the center of the butterfly. Make three or four

Picture 80

connections on your way up. When you get to the top,
string eleven beads and pass the needle down through
bead B. Finish off the thread.

At this point you have made butterfly’s wings and
attached the body to it.The working thread is coming
out of bead 1. Thread 12 beads to make the right
antennae, bring the needle through bead 2 (see the
picture above) and proceed to the right top end of
the butterfly’s wing, following the contour. Now you
can either string beads or make any kind of chain
you like. When you are done with the chain, bring
the needle through bead 4 (on the top left wing) and
following the contour proceed to bead 3. Thread
twelve new beads to make the left antenna. Bring the
needle through bead 9, and work the thread down
through the beadwork a little further to hide it.
“HIVE QUEEN” NECKLACE

Any time you need to make a relatively wide-netted necklace there will be a certain amount
of guesswork involved—how big the increase toward the bottom you need to make to allow
the necklace to curve around the neck, without ruffling. It always depends on how long your
necklace is—the increase that works well for a sixteen inch necklace will be too much for a
twenty inch long one. The method 1 used to create this necklace will solve the problem. No
matter how long you make it, the necklace will curve just as you want it to. If you like netted
necklaces, you can use the basic diagram provided in this chapter to create a wide variety of
them by embellishing them with different flowers and leaves, which you have learned
throughout this book. The method I used to create the honeycomb effect can be used
to create a different pattern, and you can always modify this necklace by adding your
favorite fringe at the bottom.

Materials needed:

30g gold seed beads, size 11°

7g yellow seed beads, size 11°

7g black seed beads, size 11°

Estimated time:

10 - 15 hours, depending on your experience.

MAKING A BASE

The base of this necklace is done using the vertical
netting stitch, which is described in detail in the
BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter. The main difference
between the diagram described there and the one
provided in Picture 81 is that there are four
connection beads instead of one. If you don’t want
your necklace to be so wide, you can use three or
even two beads as connection points. At the bottom
of the necklace 1 added the simplest fringe. You can
use a more elaborate one or no fringe at all, if you’d
like. Leave the thread on the spindle and start beading
from the center of the necklace. When you reach half
of the desired length, attach your favorite clasp, as
described in the Useful Tips chapter.Turn your
beadwork over and finish the second half of the
necklace in the same way. Attach the clasp on the
other end. If you still have some thread left, you can
use it for the next step.
HONEYCOMB EFFECT

The next step is similar to embroidery—you will be going through the necklace horizontally,
filling some of the cells with accent gold beads.

In the first row you will be filling every other cell with two five bead columns using accent
gold beads.

Start by passing the needle down through connection beads 1-4 as shown in Picture 82,
step I. String five gold beads and pass the needle down through connection beads 1-4
again.Pass the needle up through five gold beads. See Picture 82, step I.String five gold
beads and pass the needle up through

Picture 83

the first five gold beads. Pass the needle
down through the second five gold
beads. Pass the needle up through
connection beads 5-7. See Picture 82.
step II.Pass the needle down through
the second five gold beads. Pass the
needle up through connection beads
5-7 and two beads of the next top
turnaround to skip one cell. See
Picture 82. step III. Repeat these
steps until you reach the other side of
the necklace. The cells in the next three
horizontal rows are filled the same way.
For the second row you will be filling
two cells with two five bead columns
each, and then skipping two cells.

For the third row you will be filling
every other cell with three five bead
columns.For the forth row you will
be filling two cells with three five bead
columns each and then skipping two
cells. See Picture 83.
MAKING THE BEE'S BODY

I suggest using a fishing line or nylon cord to make the bee—it will keep the shape

better and the threads won’t be so noticeable while chang-
ing the beads color.

The bee’s body is done in the tubular peyote stitch, which is
described in detail in the BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter.
Leave the thread on the spindle and string twenty yellow beads.
Pass the needle through bead 1 a second time to form a circle.
See Picture 84, step 1.

Use the diagram in Picture 84, step 11 to start with the next
row. You will need to make four more rows in tubular peyote
stitch using yellow seed beads. Each of those rows consists of
ten beads. When you are done with them, you should have a
cylinder with six rows of yellow beads.

9

17

lu

9



The next four rows are done using black beads. Beginning

7

15

7

Picture 85

5

7

33

4



from the eighth row we will
be reducing the number of
beads in every other row.

Start the eighth row as usual,
but when you come to bead
25, don’t string a new bead
as you would normally do, but

II

1/

5

15

10

Picture 84

7

В

7

pass the needle through bead 26 and continue beading
normally. See Picture 85.

To make the ninth row, use the diagram in Picture 86. In
this row you should not reduce the number of beads.

To make the tenth row use the diagram in Picture

85. You will have 8
beads after this row.

The next four rows are done with yellow seed bead.
Continue reducing beads every other row. Use the
diagram in Picture 85 for all even rows and the diagram
in Picture 86 for all odd rows.

Continue beading in the same way, alternating four
yellow rows and four black rows. 1 am providing a side
view of what the bee’s body should look like in
Picture 87. When you are done, gather the beads of
the last row and finish off the thread.
MAKING THE BEE'S HEAD

Picture 87

Use the thread we left on the spindle,
when we started making the bee's body,
to make the bee’s head. At first we will
make something like a neck to separate
the body and the head. With the thread
coming out of the bead 1, start gather-
ing the beads as shown in Picture 88,
step I.

Pass the needle through bead 19 and
string one new black bead. Pass the
needle through beads 17 and 15 and
string one new bead. Pass the needle
through beads 13 and 11 and string one
new bead. Pass the needle through beads
9 and 7 and string one new bead. Pass

the needle through beads 5 and
3 and string one new bead. Pass
the needle through beads 21, 22,
23, 24, 25 and 21 one more
time as shown in Picture 88,
step II.

With the thread coming out of bead
21, string two new beads and bring
the needle through bead 22. String
two new beads and bring the needle
through bead 23.

String two new beads and bring the

Picture 88

needle through bead 24. String two new beads and bring the needle through bead 25.

String two new beads and bring the needle

through bead 21 and beads 26 and 27. See
Picture 89, step I.

String one new bead and bring the needle
through beads 28 and 29. String one new
bead and bring the needle through beads 30
and 31. String one new bead and bring the
needle through beads 32 and 33. String one
new bead and bring the needle through beads
34 and 35. String one new bead and bring
the needle through beads 26, 27 and 36.
See Picture 89, step II. Repeat steps I and II
three times.
Gather the last five beads, as shown
in Picture 90. step I. Pass the needle
through bead 11 and string three
beads. Pass the needle through bead
12 and string three beads. These
beads will be the bee’s eyes.

MAKING THE BEE'S

WINGS

Picture 90

Use transparent beads to make the bee’s wings. With your thread coming out of bead 13,
pass the needle through beads 7 and 8. String the beads for the first wing, as shown in
Picture 91, step I. Pass the needle through beads 7 and 8 again and make one peyote row
as shown in Picture 91, step II. Pass the needle through beads 6, 5. 4, 3, 2 and 1 and make
the second wing using the same diagrams.

Picture 91
“VOILD FLOWERS” NECKLACE

In this chapter I am not going to give you instructions on how to make the necklace. I will
show you how to make each component though. You can also use any floral elements
described in the previous chapters of this book to place them on the netted base to create
your own unique necklace.

I'd like to share just one idea, which I got only, when I finished this necklace. You can try
making the base and the leaves in the same color or maybe just a touch of the second color.
The necklace has enough volume and texture to show the design. Made in one color it will
have a classier look.

Materials needed:

50g gray seed beads, size 11°

30g green seed beads, size 11°

15g red seed beads, size 11°

Estimated time:

Varies, depend on your design.

MAKING A BASE

The base of this necklace is done the same way as the base
for the "Hive Queen" necklace, but it is much wider. There
are also four beads used as connection points. The necklace
I made is about four inches wide. You can change the width
by varying the number of beads in connection points and
removing or modifying the fringe.

Leave the thread on the spindle and start beading from
the center of the necklace using the diagram in Picture
92. When you reach half of the desired length, attach a
clasp as described in the USEFUL TIPS chapter.

Turn your beadwork over and finish the second half of the
necklace in the same way. Attach the clasp to the other end
and finish off the thread.

0 0 0 0 0 0
MY BEADED GARDEN

MAKING FLOWERS

Leave a six inch tail and start by stringing twelve seed beads.

Pass the needle through the first bead to form a circle, as shown
in Picture 93, step I.

Make five rows in tubular peyote stitch, using the diagram in
Picture 93, step II. You should now
have a seven-row cylinder. If you
need more information on tubular ц
peyote stitch, you can find it in the
BASIC TECHNIQUES chapter.

The eighth row is done with an
increase. Insert two beads instead of one, as shown in Picture
93, step III.

Make the ninth row using the diagram in Picture 93, step IV.

Make the tenth row using the diagram in Picture 93, step III.	Picture 93

Make the eleventh and twelfth rows using the diagram in

Picture 93. step IV.

Make the thirteenth row using the diagram in Picture 93,

step III.

Picture 93

Make the fourteenth row

Picture 93, step IV.
Finish off all the
threads.

All the flowers in
my necklace are
the same, but you
can vary them in
size by making
more or less
rows, using the
same diagrams.
Make as many
flowers as you
want.

using the diagram in

MAKING A STEM

The stems for the flowers are done the same way as the cords for the “Golden Trio"
necklace. You can make them all different lengths. Leave a long tail, which you can
later use to attach a flower to the base and start beading using the diagram in Picture
41. When the stem is done, insert it in the opening in the flower and attach a big bead
at the end, so the flower won’t come off and has a nice center.
MAKING LEAVES

There are three different sizes of leaves in this

necklace.They are done similar to the leaves in the
“Golden Trio” necklace, but I used netting stitch instead
of peyote. To make the biggest one, leave the thread on
the spindle and start beading according the diagram in
Picture 94. Turn the beadwork over and, using the thread
from the spindle, make the second half of the leaf using
the same diagram.Now we will make a contour row for
the leaf. With the thread you have been working with,
which is coming out of bead 1, start passing through the
numbered beads, inserting the beads where necessary.
The beads you will be adding are gray on the diagram in
Picture 95. You can make them the same color as the
leaf or a slightly different color, if you'd like. When you
make a circle and reach bead 47, finish off the thread.
Using the thread we left on the spindle, which is coming
out of bead 29, pass through bead 3 to connect the halves

of the leaf at the top. String eleven beads and make a pass through bead A. Pass the needle
through the last four beads you have strung. String three beads and make a pass through
bead 19. Pass the needle through the last three beads you have strung and two beads on the

main branch.

String three beads
and make a pass
through bead 11.
Continue beading
in the same way,
using the diagram
in Picture 95.
You can use the
remaining thread
to attach the leaf to
the necklace later.
Use the diagrams
in Pictures 96 and
97 to make the
smaller leaves.
The last element I used to make this necklace is a thin spiral, which is
done as shown in Picture 98. Start by stringing the desired number of
beads and go back, as in peyote stitch, but inserting two beads instead of
one. This increase will twist it, giving it a resemblance to plants’ tendrils.
Use the remaining threads to attach them to the necklace. Is uggest
making the base of the necklace and several pieces of each element first.
Start placing them differently on the base to see how it looks and what
and where you want to add.

Picture 98
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“CARNATION BOUQUET” NECKLACE
“FLORAL MOTIF” NECKLACE
“GOLDEN TRIO” NECKLACE
“LILAC” NECKLACE
ROSE BOUQUET


“TULIP” NECKLACE
“VOILD FLOVJERS” NECKLACE