/
Текст
2023
TOOL
GUIDE
Cordless
recip saws,
p. 30
Best tools of the year
Tablesaws, p. 58
Benchtop
planers, p. 62
Cordless
miter saws, p. 34
Trim
routers,
p. 38
Tool Guide – Winter 2023
PURVEYORS OF FINE MACHINERY ®
SINCE 1983
Quality Machines, Great Prices!
20" FLOOR DRILL PRESS
1
• Motor: 1 ⁄ 2 HP, 120V/240V,
single-phase, 15.8A/7.9A
• Prewired voltage: 120V
• Swing: 20"
• Drill chuck: JT3, 3 ⁄ 64"–5 ⁄ 8"
• Drilling capacity: 11 ⁄4" steel
• Spindle taper: MT #4
• Spindle travel: 43 ⁄4"
• Spindle speeds: 12, from
180–3240 RPM
• Table size: 18 3 ⁄4" x 16 3 ⁄4"
• Table swivel: 360°; table tilt: 90°
• Footprint: 23" x 18"
• Overall height: 703 ⁄4"
• Approx. shipping weight: 317 lbs.
MADE
IN AN FACTORY
1 1 ⁄ 2 HP SHAPER
15" 3 HP FIXED-TABLE PLANERS
• Motor: 1 1 ⁄ 2 HP, 120V/240V
single-phase, 12A/6A
• Table size: 201 ⁄4"x 18"
• Floor-to-table height: 33 1 ⁄ 2"
• Spindle travel: 3"
• Spindle size: 1 ⁄ 2", 3 ⁄4", 1"
• Table spindle openings:
1 1 ⁄4", 3 1 ⁄ 2"
• Max. cutter height: 2 1 ⁄ 2"
• Max. cutter diameter: 5"
• Spindle speeds:
7,000 & 10,000 RPM
• Footprint: 21" x 23 1 ⁄ 2"
• Overall dimensions:
22" W x 25" D x 401 ⁄ 2" H
Approx. shipping weight:
221 lbs.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Motor: 3 HP, 230V, single-phase, 12A
Table size w/cast-iron wings: 15" W x 49" L
Max. stock thickness: 15"
Min. stock thickness: 3 ⁄ 16"
Min. length of stock: 6"
Feed rates: 16, 28 FPM
Cutterhead diameter: 2 5 ⁄ 8"
Cutterhead speed: 5,200 RPM
Overall dimensions:
25" W x 49" L x 47 1 ⁄ 2" H
• Approx. shipping weight: 374
lbs. (G0890), 300 lbs (G0891)
MADE IN
TAIWAN FACTORY
175370
W/ STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTERHEAD
MADE
IN AN FACTORY
$
239
$
179
184841
G0890 ONLY
$
195500
G7948 ONLY $109900
WARNING! †1
19" 3 HP EXTREME-SERIES BANDSAW
G1035 ONLY $119500
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
• Motor: 3 HP, 220V,
single-phase, 12A
• Cutting capacity/throat: 181 ⁄4"
• Resaw Capacity: 12"
• Blade size: 143" L (1 ⁄ 8" – 1 1 ⁄4" W)
• Table size: 26 3 ⁄4" x 19" x 11 ⁄ 2" thick
• Table tilt: 5° left, 45° right
• Floor to table height: 37 1 ⁄ 2"
• Blade size: 143" long
• Blade widths available: 1 ⁄ 8"–11 ⁄4"
• Blade speeds: 1700, 3500 FPM
• Blade guides: dual ball bearing
• Overall size: 32" D x 36" W x 76" H
• Approx. shipping weight: 512 lbs.
WARNING! †1
G0891 ONLY $267500
W/ VARIABLE SPEED
Motor: 3 HP, 240V, single-phase, 14A • Max. width of dado: 13 ⁄ 16”
Rip capacity: 60" right, 14" left of blade Base footprint:
21" x 22 7⁄ 8"
Max. depth of cut @ 90°: 3"
• Overall dimensions:
Max. depth of cut @ 45°: 2 1 ⁄ 8"
Table size with extension: 74" W x 27" D v84" W x 47" D x 393 ⁄4" H
• Approx. shipping
Arbor diameter: 5 ⁄ 8"
weight: 716 lbs
Arbor speed: 4200 RPM
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
335
$
239
G0514X2B ONLY $267500
$
299
MADE IN
TAIWAN FACTORY
252923
WARNING! †1
G1023RLX ONLY $279500
8" X 83" HELICAL CUTTERHEAD JOINTER
10" 5 HP SLIDING TABLE SAW
W/ DIGITAL HEIGHT READOUT
•
• Motor: 5 HP, 230V,
•
single-phase,19A
3
• Main table size: 27" x 14 ⁄ 8" •
• Sliding table size: 63" x 12 1 ⁄4"
•
• Rip capacity: 33"
• Crosscut capacity: 781 ⁄ 2"
• Max. depth of cut @ 90°:
3 1 ⁄ 8", @ 45°: 2 1 ⁄4"
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Motor: 3 HP, 230V, single-phase, 12A
Max. cut depth: 1⁄8"
Max. rabbeting depth: 1⁄2"
Table size: 8" x 83"
Fence size: 38" L x 4 3⁄4" H
Cutterhead type: 4-row helical with 36 inserts
Cutterhead speed: 7000 RPM
Cutterhead diameter: 3 1⁄16"
Footprint: 15" x 45 3⁄4"
Overall dimensions:
83" W x 24 1⁄2" D
x 4 4" H
• Approx. shipping
weight: 672 lbs.
•
WARNING! †1
Sanding motor: 5 HP, 220V, single-phase, 25A
Feed motor: 1⁄3 HP, 2A
Max. board width: 23 1⁄2"
Min. board width: 2"
Max. board thickness:
4"
Min. board thickness:
1
⁄8"
Min. board
length: 9"
Drum surface
speed: 2300 FPM
Conveyor feed rate:
variable, 0-20 FPM
Sanding drum size: 6"
Sandpaper size:
3" x 176" hook & loop
Approx. shipping
weight: 489 lbs.
G1066Z ONLY $329500
• Motor: 3HP, 220V
• Sanding belt size:
9" x 138 1 ⁄ 2"
• Sanding belt speed:
4120 FPM
• Oscillations: 1 ⁄4"
• Main table size:
11 3 ⁄4" x 47 3 ⁄4"
• Overall
dimensions:
82" W x 24" D x
45 1 ⁄ 2" H
• Aprox. shipping weight
873 lbs.
$
299
G9984 ONLY $489500
$
299
3-PHASE, 9.5A MOTOR
G9985 ONLY $489500
2
3395
00
1
WARNING! †
G0623X ONLY
$
4940
00
$
239
WARNING! †1
Due to product size, this item must
be delivered to a loading dock or
unloaded with a forklift. Liftgate not
available.
SINGLE-PHASE, 15A MOTOR
175370
MADE IN
TAIWAN FACTORY
MADE IN
TAIWAN FACTORY
9" X 138 1⁄2" INDUSTRIAL
OSCILLATING EDGE SANDERS
Main blade arbor: 5 ⁄ 8"
Scoring blade arbor: 22mm
Overall dimensions:
76" W x 125" D x 46" H
Approx. shipping weight:
688 lbs.
MADE IN
TAIWAN FACTORY
WARNING! †1
24" 5 HP DRUM SANDER
•
MADE
IN AN FACTORY
G0495X ONLY
239
W/ HELICAL CUTTERHEAD
10" 3 HP 220V HEAVY-DUTYCABINET
TABLE SAW
W/ MOTOR BRAKE
$
$
335
1
WARNING! †
$
350
$
500
WARNING! †1
*To maintain machine warranty, 440V operation requires additional conversion time and a $250 fee. Please contact technical service for complete information before ordering.
TECHNICAL SERVICE: 570-546-9663
Business to Business
Equipment Financing
Due to rapidly changing market conditions, our advertised prices may be changed at any time without prior notice.
WARNING! †1 : Cancer & Reproductive Harm
Some products we sell can expose you to chemicals
known to the State of California to cause cancer and/
or birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more
information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/product
22403
FINANCING
TOOL
GUIDE
contents
Trim routers p. 38
POWER TOOLS
26 New to Market
30 Cordless Recip Saws
34 Compact Cordless Miter Saws
38 Compact Routers
Tablesaws, p. 58
42 Oscillating Multitools
46 Today’s Track Saws
MACHINES
50 New to Market
52 Wall-Mounted Dust
Collectors
58 Best Tablesaws in Every Size
62 Benchtop Planers
Multitools, p. 42
contents
HAND TOOLS
64 New to Market
66 Hand-Tool Buyer’s Guide
74 Must-Have
Concrete Tools
GARDENING
80 New to Market
84 Battery-Power 101
ACCESSORIES
90 New to Market
Concrete tools, p. 74
94 Essential Clamps
for Woodworking
100 Anchor Your Work
to the Wall
108 Drawer Slides
Departments
6 On the Web
8 Welcome
12 Quick Tips
New garden tools, p. 80
20 Tablesaw Setup
Go cordless outdoors, p. 84
SINCE
1906
Discover South Bend's Quality
Line of Woodworking Machines
2-Year
Warranty
South Bend®, designed to meet the needs of woodworking professionals & master woodworkers with
power, ergonomics, and special features.
6" x 48" Belt / 12" Disc
Combination Sander
Sand right to the line with precision
& confidence.
'1 1⁄2 HP, 115V/230V (prewired 115V),
single-phase, 14A/7A
'Belt sander table tilts 0-45°
'Disc sander table tilts down
45° and up 15°
'Sanding belt size: 6" x 48"
'Sanding belt speed: 2690 FPM
'Sanding disc diameter: 12"
'Disc sanding table size: 9" x 17 3⁄8"
'Dust port size: 4"
'Overall size:
28" W x 30" D x 54 1⁄2" H
10" 3 HP 220V Table Saws
19 1⁄2" Floor Drill Press
The most important investment you'll make
Built to true South Bend high-precision
industrial standards '1 HP, 220V, 3-phase, 3.8A
'36" & 52" Rip capacities
'Digital readouts for blade height,
blade angle and distance of fence
to left or right side of blade
'Precision-ground cast-iron table
with beveled edge
'Quick-release blade
guard and spreader
'Magnetic switch with
thermal overload
protection
'Variable frequency drive for
3-phase speed control with
single-phase power
'Longitudinal and vertical
power feed
'Red anodized spindle
stroke and table elevation
handles
'Table size:
20" L x 16" W x 1-1/2" T
SB1110
$
00
3035
$
FREIGHT
'Hand-Crank enabled rackand-pinion table elevation
'360° Table positioning
around column
239
SB1111
with extension rails
SB1093
WARNING! †1
162000
239
5 HP Cyclone Dust Collector
Maximum capacity and convenience in
one powerful package.
'5 HP, 220V, single-phase, 34A
'2–5 Micron pleated
filter with 60-gallon
capacity
'Remote controlled
magnetic switch
'Steel stand with built-in casters
'Automatic filter paddle brush for
easy cleaning
'Vacuum equalizer built into
collection drum for use with
collection bags
'Built-in sound muffler
WARNING! †1
SB1094
$
00
3825
WARNING! †1
'Variable speed, from
5000–10,000 RPM
'4-Row helical cutterhead
with 92 inserts
'Heavy-duty precisionground cast-iron
extension wings
'Pedestal-mounted
controls with magnetic
switch and thermal
overload protection
'Anti-kickback fingers
'Drive gears run in
oil bath
00
3140
$
FREIGHT
299
SB1125
$
WARNING! †1
SB1119
00
4325
$
FREIGHT
FREIGHT
$
299
'Motor: 7 1⁄2 HP, 220V/440V (prewired
220V), 3-phase, 20A/10A
'Strongest rack-and-pinion table tilt
mechanism in the industry maintains
table squareness while supporting
the heaviest loads
'Precision-ground cast-iron table
with cast-iron trunnion
'Two 4" dust ports
'Computer-balanced cast-iron wheels
'Foot-operated brake system
'Blade size: 180-181 1⁄2" (1/4"–1 1⁄2"
wide)
3 HP Single-Phase
$
375000
24" 71⁄2 HP Industrial-Duty
Bandsaw with 16" Resaw Capacity
'Micro-adjustment knobs
for fence alignment
'Quick-release
belt tensioner
'43⁄4" tall anodized
aluminum fence with
featherboard attachments
'DRO for spindle RPM
and height positioning
239
SB1120
5 HP 3-Phase
$
239
Get unmatched planing with South Bend
precision.
SB1110
pictured
3 & 5 HP Variable-Speed
Spindle Shapers
FREIGHT
$
20" Planer with Helical Cutterhead
'5 HP, 220V, single-phase, 23A
'Digital table height scale
'Variable feed speed dial on
control pedestal
$
FREIGHT
$
$
WARNING! †1
SB1119
pictured
00
4375
$
FREIGHT
299
473500
FREIGHT
$
350
37" 15 HP Wide Belt Sander
12" x 87" Jointer
Built for industrial-level production work
with Helical Cutterhead
'Parallelogram tables with
handwheel adjustment
'Digital readout for infeed
table height
'Precision-ground
cast-iron tables
SB1123
$
WARNING! †1
'Rabbeting table
'Heavy-duty
center-mouned
fence with rackand-pinion lateral
adjustment
'Fence stops at
90° & 135°
' Motor: 15 HP, 220V/440V
(prewired 220V), 3-phase,
36.7A/18.4A
' Conveyor speed:
Variable, 15-49 FPM
' Independent motor controls for
sanding drum, table elevation,
and feed conveyor
' Keypad controls for table
elevation with digital readout
accurate to 0.005"
' Emergency stop panel
and disc brake
'Knee-level
emergency stop
button
WARNING! †1
SB1109
00
5455
$
FREIGHT
350
southbendtools.com
SB1113
$
WARNING! †1
00
5970
$
FREIGHT
425
SB1096
WARNING! †1
360-734-1540
Due to rapidly changing market conditions, our advertised prices may be increased at any time without prior notice.
$
14,83000
AVAILABLE FREIGHT
SPRING
$
2023
575
WARNING! †1 : Cancer & Reproductive Harm
Some products we sell can expose you to chemicals known
to the State of California to cause cancer and/or birth
defects or other reproductive harm. For more information
go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/product
22404
$
free extras at FineWoodworking.com/TG2023
TA U N T O N ’ S
on the web
TOOL
GUIDE
Editor and
Creative Director
Deputy Editor
Deputy Art Director
Senior Editor
Associate Editor
Managing Editor/
Production
Administrative Assistant
Editor,
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Assistant Digital Editor
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fw-web@taunton.com
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Kara Demos
Basic pruning tools
New to pruning? Antonio Reis shows you the tools
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and shrubs.
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Senior Managing Editor
Senior Editors
VIDEO
A first look at the new
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Come along for the first look at our new shop
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VIDEO
VIDEO WORKSHOP
4 tool mods for woodworkers
Must-have hand tools
for a remodeler’s kit
Four simple tool modifications that help
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of the tools in his shop.
Patrick McCombe shows off the hand tools he
keeps at the ready when tackling a remodeling or
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VIDEO WORKSHOP
Machine maintenance
with Matt Wajda and Ellen Kaspern
A well-tuned machine makes woodworking more accurate
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In this series, you’ll learn how to tune up:
Tablesaws ● Jointers ● Planers ● Hollow-chisel mortisers
6
Senior Editor,
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fine
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Jeff Roos
Taunton’s Tool Guide: (ISSN: 1930-9589) is published
by The Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, CT 06470-5506.
Telephone 203-426-8171. Canadian GST paid registration
#123210981.
Printed in the USA
REAL REVIEWS
BY REAL EXPERTS
If you’re looking to buy a tool or machine to
make your life easier, you already know that
tons of information is available just a mouse
click or finger swipe away. But how do you
know if that information is good? Was it
written by a real person who actually used the
Associate Publisher,
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Director
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Administrative
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Director of Digital
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tool, or by some bot programmed to spit out
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positive reviews for all kinds of products?
Group Marketing Director
Most of the time, you don’t know. And that’s
probably one of the reasons you are holding
Director,
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Senior Marketing Manager,
Customer Acquisition
Marketing Manager
this copy of Taunton’s 2023 Tool Guide in your
hands right now. The reviews in this guide are
John Maher
Erin Nikitchyuk
Robina Lewis
Matthew Ulland
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vetted by the editors at Fine Woodworking,
Print Production Manager
E-mail Operations
Fine Homebuilding, and Fine Gardening
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magazines. The reviewers are expert
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gardeners, woodworkers, and carpenters who
Fine Woodworking, The Taunton Press
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Email us at fw@taunton.com or call 800-309-8955
use these kinds of tools every day. They don’t
make recommendations lightly; their work
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and reputations are on the line.
Single Copy Sales
We have collected head-to-head reviews of
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market over the past year. We’ve also put
together special collections aimed at helping
Independent publishers since 1975
Founders, Paul & Jan Roman
buyers make the best choices when shopping
for tablesaws, trim routers, tracksaws,
President & CEO
Chief Financial Officer
multitools, benchtop planers, and clamps.
Our editors and writers have nearly 50 years
So take this guide home with you, and flip
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know how to make the best choice.
8
Erica Moynihan
VP, Strategy and Research
compiling this collection.
buying. And the next time you are in the
Brian Magnotta
Chief Revenue Officer
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we gather all that experience together when
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of experience buying and using tools, and
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A NOTE ABOUT PRICES
Prices listed in this guide were
checked at the time of publication
and represent an average cost for the
tool available online. Prices change,
sometimes quite often. So please
do your own price checks and survey
several retailers if considering a tool.
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Copyright 2022 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No
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Press, Inc.
Meet Triton’s handy, lightweight, compact router that is easy to control and includes two bases as standard.
The TMNRTR is perfect for a variety of handheld tasks including mortising, moulding and edging of laminates.
One Router. Two Bases. Unlimited Possibilities.
Rocker on/off switch
stays on without trigger
Micro depth adjustment, depth stop & turret on
plunge base for precision & preset depth adjustment
Flat top &
spindle lock
button
for stable,
easier bit &
collet changes
Includes Blow Mold Case
TECHNICAL PERFORMANCE
Dust extraction
spout on the
plunge base allows
connection to a dust
extraction system
Parallel fence
guide knobs
to configure
fence up to 5-1⁄8"
from the centre
of the cutter
Plunge base
features builtin router lift for
use with the
supplied table
height winder
Trimmer base
& roller guide
attachment
enables edge
routing with any
bearingless cutter
No Load Speed:
11,500 - 31,000min-1
Bases:
Trimmer & Plunge
Max Cutter Dia:
1 3⁄16"
Collets:
1⁄4"
Max Plunge Depth:
0 - 1 9⁄16"
Dimensions (L x W x H):
11 27⁄64 x 11 1⁄32 x 5 29⁄32"
Weight
6.4lbs
quick tips
Extend your jointer tables to support long boards
W
hile milling long
dowel to accept the smaller
Table, 38 in. long,
lumber for a tabledowel, and glue it in.
can be shorter to
save space
top, I had trouble
Note: When you adjust the
controlling the planks on my
infeed table to change the
jointer, especially balancing a
depth of cut, you’ll need to
board to remove twist. I tried
adjust the leveling feet on that
work stands, but they weren’t
extension table accordingly.
— J IM S C H O O N F I E L D,
effective. So I created these
S helb y Tow n sh i p , Mi c h .
extensions for the infeed and
outfeed tables. They should
work on any jointer with
Table and
Plate, 3⁄4-in. plywood, 61⁄2 in.
sides, 3⁄4-in.
square sides.
1
wide by 3 ⁄2 in. tall, attached
plywood
To get the tables perfectly
to leg support with 1⁄4-20 by
level with the jointer and
3-in. carriage bolts
keep them that way, I made a
cam system that bolts to the
Table braces, solid
wood, 11⁄4 in. thick
sides of the jointer.
by 2 in. wide
After ripping and rabbeting
Legs, solid wood,
the tables and sides to fit my
except attachment
Cam
plate
jointer, and cutting the rest
of the parts, I joined everything with glue and fasteners.
To locate the tapped holes
Leg support, solid
wood, 2 in. square
for the cam system, I drilled
Sides, 50 in. long,
1⁄16-in. holes in the sides of
4 in. wide at one
end, 2 in. wide at
the extension tables. After
the other, rabbeted
3
Main
leg,
⁄
4 in.
clamping the tables level with
to fit over lip on
thick by 3 in. wide
edge of jointer
the top of the jointer tables,
(shape yours as
I used the holes as a referneeded)
ence to drill into the cast-iron
jointer tables with the same
Foot block, 2 in. thick
by 21⁄2 in. tall
bit. When drilling, be sure to
lubricate the bit.
Adjustable feet,
1
⁄4-20, thread into
Next I removed the wood
T-nuts in foot block
extensions and used a #7 drill
bit (a 13⁄64-in. bit also works)
to drill for the 1⁄4-20 tap.
You’ll drive the tap with a
Quick Tip
3
small T-handle. Lubricate the Rib, 1 ⁄4 in. thick
by 1 ⁄2 in. wide
tap and start twisting it into
Silicone fittings make great
the hole. As it forms chips,
dust-hose adapters
the tap will bind. Reverse it
To connect my shop vacuum hose to various power
and then continue.
tools, I use silicone automotive hose fittings. They come
To create the height adjustin a variety of sizes—including both straight couplers
ing cams, I use sections of
and reducers—and they have sufficient friction to keep
two dowels. Drill a 1⁄4-in.-dia.
connections in place. They’re inexpensive so I leave one
hole for the bolt in the larger
on each of my power tools.
dowel off-center by 1⁄8 in. Drill
—G E O F F KE R SH AW, B e a u m a ri s, V i ct o r i a , Au s t r a l i a
a second hole in the larger
12
Drawings: Dan Thornton
Cam cut from 1-in. oak
dowel; 3⁄16-in. dowel
glued in as handle
Drill jointer bed with #7
or 13⁄64-in. bit, and thread
holes with 1⁄4-20 tap.
Bolt hole, 1⁄4 in. dia.,
1
⁄8 in. off-center
Bolts, 1⁄4-20
by 1 in. long
Cam holes, stepped,
11⁄8 in. dia. by 1⁄4 in. deep,
with 1⁄2-in.-dia. throughhole
Rotate cam to bring extension table level
with jointer table, and then tighten the bolt.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
13
quick tips
continued
Open blast gates without bending
and reaching
Tubing
clamps
Knot in cord
1
Blast-gate locations usually aren’t very
accessible. I solved the problem with a
mechanism that controls the gate from
the front of my machines, where the
power switches are. I installed the first
one on my tablesaw.
First, I cut a length of flexible 1⁄2-in.
PEX tubing to reach from the front of the
saw to just short of the blast gate flap
when it’s fully open. Any stiff but slightly
flexible tubing can be substituted. Before
attaching the tube to the saw, I threaded
a length of drapery cord (braided nylon)
through it, by running my shop vacuum
at one end and feeding the cord into the
other. Next, I fastened the PEX tube to
the saw using tubing clamps. Zip ties will
also work. I then drilled a hole in the top
of the gate and tied off the cord there
with a double overhand knot.
At the front of the saw, I cut a notch
in the tube and put another knot in the
cord, positioned so it would catch in
the notch with the gate fully open, and
added a weight to the end of the cord.
When I release the knot from the notch
and feed it into the tube, the gate closes.
You’re relying on gravity to close the
gate, so it needs to be positioned as
vertically as possible. Metal blast gates
work better than plastic for this setup,
as plastic blast gates tend to be sticky.
While most metal gates will work as is,
you can take yours apart and smooth
any rough internal edges to improve the
action, or even add some weight to the
top of the gate.
Feed knot into
tube to allow
gate to drop.
Place waxed paper
between glue joints
and clamp bars.
14
Braided nylon cord,
plus weight
—D E N N I S VO L Z , Pa r k e r, C o l o .
Steel blast
gate, with
hole drilled
for cord
Pull cord to
pull gate open,
and drop knot
into notch to
lock it there.
Steel pipes won’t
interact with glue
and stain the wood.
Parallel-jaw clamp bars
stay clean, keeping jaw
action smooth.
⁄2-in.-dia. PEX
tubing, notched
to catch knot
Protect clamp bars
with waxed paper
I love my parallel-jaw bench
clamps, but I don’t love how
glue squeeze-out drips onto
the serrated bars, making the
clamps hard to operate. After
a recent cleaning, I’ve started
laying waxed paper over the
bars to prevent the problem.
Waxed paper also prevents
pipe-clamp bars from
discoloring wood when glue
oxidizes the steel pipes.
—T O M SC HO RN , G r o t o n , Ma s s .
Quick way to sharpen a marking gauge
Chuck shaft of marking gauge
in drill-press chuck, and set
machine at slow speed.
Some wheel-type marking
gauges are not sharp out
of the box, and even the
best dull over time. It takes
a long time to sharpen
them by rubbing the
flat side on waterstones.
Instead, I chuck the gauge
in my drill press, set the
machine to a slow speed,
and hold a small diamond
honing plate against the
bevel. The diamond hone
will sharpen the bevel in a
minute or two.
Use spacer blocks to set Domino and
biscuit joiners accurately
To make sure the fences on my biscuit joiner and Domino end
up parallel to the base, at precise heights, I use a set of simple
spacer blocks that I made with common woodworking tools
from acrylic plastic. Some of my blocks are designed to center
biscuits and Dominoes in common wood thicknesses. For the
Domino joiner, which has a metric scale for fence height, the
blocks also convert the tool to standard measurements.
—DA N MARTIN , G a l e n a , O h i o
Acrylic plastic is
stable and accurate.
— J OS EP H H A R T U P,
R id gef ield , Wa sh .
Hold a small
diamond stone
against the bevel
of the tool to
sharpen it quickly
and easily.
Use the blocks to set
the fence to accurate
heights, and ensure
that it’s level to the
workpiece.
Make spacer blocks in a variety of
common dimensions, and label them.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
15
quick tips
Closed cabinet stand
continued
Long, tapered
hardwood block,
shaped to fit
cabinet
Foam strips secure chisels and gouges
When I first got into woodworking, I built a carved cradle.
The more I got into carving, the more the gouges piled up.
Rather than buy additional tool rolls to store them in, I came
up with this simple system, which uses strips of medium- to
high-density foam and allows much easier access. The strips
will hold all sorts of files, rasps, rifflers, chisels, gouges, and
other slim hand tools, and it works inside a cabinet or on a
wall-mounted tool board. You can cut the foam with standard
woodworking tools, and the strips attach to the backer board
with spray adhesive. My foam strips are 12 years old now and
still work as good as new.
Lift heavy machine
slightly when
engaging casters.
To withstand weight of heavy machine,
attach retractable caster and wood
block with machine screws that pass
through cabinet, with nuts and washers
on the inside.
Open stand, leg mount
— J IM S C HM IDT, Heald s b u rg , C a l i f.
Tapered hardwood block,
shaped to fit inside leg
Attach block with
pan-head screws
driven through leg.
Attach strips with
spray adhesive.
Retractable
caster, attached
with large hexhead wood
screws
To attach optional
leveling foot, drill
hole sized so
stem cuts its own
threads in wood.
Hardwood block,
shaped to fit
inside frame
Open stand, cross-brace mount
Use mounting
holes for crossbrace to attach
mounting blocks.
Additional wood
screw stabilizes
block.
Medium- or high-density upholstery
foam, 11⁄4 in. to 11⁄2 in. thick, sliced
into 2-in.-high strips
Narrow hand tools
press easily and
securely into place.
Caster attached
with machine
screws and nuts.
Add retractable casters to any machine
Drill 3⁄8-in.-dia. holes
11⁄2 in. apart, and make
bandsawn cuts as shown.
16
My shop has limited floor space, so I put everything I can
on casters. I dislike mobile bases, however, as they collect
too much sawdust, raise the height of the tools, and are just
plain unattractive to my eye. So I figured out a way to add
retractable casters—sold by Rockler and Powertec—to all of
my stationary tools. I did this by making custom mounting
brackets from hardwood, and painting them to match the tool
they are mounted to. Each tool required different mounting
blocks, but none required any special skills. In each case the
blocks are shaped to fit the machine stand while positioning
the caster bracket square to the floor. See the drawings for
how this works on a variety of tool stands and cabinets.
—ST E V E F IK AR, S h a l i m a r, Fl a .
Tape keeps parts in place, and rails
stabilize feed rollers to prevent snipe.
Simple planer sled for short or thin pieces
Attach workpieces
and rails with
double-sided
tape designed for
mounting plastic
window film.
Varnish top
for good tape
adhesion, and
wax bottom for
easy sliding on
planer bed.
Sled base, 3⁄4-in. MDF
Use rails that are a bit thicker
than your workpieces, and at
least 3 in longer at each end.
This simple sled will let you run thin or short pieces
through a benchtop planer without the cutterhead
chewing them up or sniping their ends. It’s made of a
piece of MDF—used because it is very flat—and two
strips of wood.
Start by taping down the pieces you are planing, using
double-sided window-sealing tape. I use 3M 2145C
Scotch Indoor Window Film Mounting Tape, which
is very thin, holds tenaciously, and is easy to release.
It only takes a few squares of tape to hold down the
parts for planing. I recommend applying varnish to the
top of the sled for better tape adhesion, and waxing
the bottom for lower friction. Cut two side rails from
any scrapwood, making them a little thicker than your
workpieces, and tape them to the MDF. The rails should
extend past both ends of your workpieces by a few
inches at least, so they will stabilize the feed rollers and
prevent snipe. To release the parts I insert a thin metal
spatula under them.
With this sled I’ve successfully planed very short
pieces and very thin ones--some as thin as 1⁄16 in.
—R U SS B A I N B R I D G E , Sa sk a t o o n , S a s k., Ca n a da
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
17
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Maintenance
Setting up
your tablesaw
B Y
A S A
C H R I S T I A N A
S
ome power tools will do their best work right out of the
box. Don’t expect that from your new tablesaw. It needs
a tune-up on day one.
A tablesaw is designed so that the teeth at the front of the
blade do all the cutting, and the teeth at the back spin freely,
without rubbing or cutting into the board. For that to happen,
the board needs to travel in a perfectly straight path through
the blade. So the first step is aligning the table so that the miter
slots are parallel with the blade. The rip fence also needs
to be set perfectly parallel to the blade.
From there, the tune-up switches from parallel
to perpendicular, as you set the blade and fences
square to the table. Those 90° angles are essential if
you want to end up with tight joints and square projects.
THREE STEPS TO SAFE, SMOOTH, SQUARE CUTS
For perfect crosscuts, align the table’s miter slots parallel to the blade.
For ripcuts, align the fence with a miter slot, and it will be parallel to
the blade, too. The last step is setting two built-in stops for square cuts.
1. Align miter slots
parallel to blade.
2. Align rip fence
parallel to miter slots.
Align the blade parallel with the miter slots
To align the table (and its miter slots) with the blade, start by
taking a measurement from the edge of one of the miter slots
to the front and back of the blade. If the measurements are the
same, the blade and table are aligned. I recommend using a
0-to-1-in. plunge-style dial indicator for this step.
Start by raising the blade as high as it will go to increase
the distance between back and front. In case the teeth are a
20
3. Set stops on
miter gauge and
blade assembly.
Drawing, this page: Jim Richey
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Maintenance
continued
Align the blade and table
The miter slots must be parallel to the blade, and a plunge-style
dial indicator is the best tool for checking.
1. CHECK TABLE ALIGNMENT
First check
reading at front
edge of blade.
Then check and
compare reading
at trailing edge of
blade.
Check at the front and back of
the blade. Clamp the wood block
onto the miter-gauge fence so the
indicator is pushing against a tooth.
Move the blade and miter gauge to
find the high point on the tooth, and
then zero the dial on the indicator.
Mark the tooth you measured
earlier, and rotate it to the back of
the table for another check. The
dial shows a different reading at
the back, meaning that this table is
misaligned.
2. ADJUST AS NECESSARY
Loosen three of the four bolts that attach the table
to the saw cabinet (above). Give the table a tap at
one of the loose corners (right), and recheck the
blade alignment. Lock down the bolts when the
readings at the front and back of the blade are
within 0.001 in. of each other.
little uneven or have some pitch built up on them, rotate the
blade and use the same tooth for each measurement. The two
numbers should be within 0.001 in. of each other, 0.002 at the
most. They probably won’t be, so you’ll need to adjust them.
On cabinet saws, the trunnions (the assembly that holds the
blade) are attached to the cabinet, and the table is attached independently, meaning you can move it and the blade stays put.
On smaller saws—job-site, portable, contractor, or hybrid
saws—the blade assembly is usually attached directly to the
22
tabletop. That means you’ll have to go a little farther under the
hood. Check your manual, and take a look under the table for
the attachment points. Newer saws make them easier to access.
Align the rip fence and check the splitter
Now that the miter slots are parallel with the blade, you can
align the rip fence with one of the slots and know that it is
square to the blade, too. Just line up the fence with a miter slot,
feel for misalignment using your fingers, and adjust the fence.
Drawings and photos, except where noted: Kelly J. Dunton
© The Taunton Press
Maintenance
continued
Align the rip fence
Once you have the miter slots aligned with
the blade, you can simply line up the rip
fence with a miter slot to see whether it is
parallel to the blade, too.
Set the stops
Both the blade and
miter gauge have builtin stops for returning
them quickly to 90°
after making an
angled cut. Set these
now and you’ll save
time later.
BLADE
Go by feel. Clamp
down the rip fence
along the edge of one
of the miter slots. Use
your fingertips to check
if the fence is flush with
the slot from the front
all the way to the back
(above). Adjustments
vary, but all are easy.
On T-square fences like
this (right), there are
simple set screws on
the bracket that rides
the guide bar.
All saws should have some form of splitter behind the blade,
designed to sit in the slot that it cuts, preventing the board from
turning sideways and kicking back. On some saws you can
simply flex the splitter sideways to align it; on others there will
be a way to adjust it at its base.
Two stops make accuracy more convenient
For ripcuts and crosscuts alike, you also need the blade to be
square to the table. There is a stop on the saw to help you
return the blade to a perfect 90° every time. You can use a
square to realign the blade after each bevel cut, and test cuts to
be really sure, but it’s nice to have a stop you can rely on.
The miter gauge that came with your saw also should have
a stop on it for the 90° setting. If that stop is wiggly or sloppy
in any way, replace the miter gauge with an aftermarket model
Before squaring the fence, add a long sacrificial piece of
plywood or MDF to it.
□
Asa Christiana is a woodworker, writer, and editor in Portland, Ore.
24
Square the blade. Use a square to get the blade as close to 90° as
possible. Then make a test cut on a thick, flat piece and check that with
your square. That’s the only way to know if your saw is accurate.
Now set the stop.
The stop’s location
differs on various
saws. Loosen it,
push it against the
blade assembly,
and lock it in place.
MITER GAUGE
Square the fence
to the blade. It’s
always good to attach
an auxiliary fence
to a miter gauge, so
do this first. Get the
fence as close to
square as you can
with a triangle or
square, and try a test
cut as before. Then
adjust the set screw
that acts as the stop.
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TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
25
POW ER TOO L S
New to market
Each year, the experts at Fine Woodworking, Fine Homebuilding,
and Fine Gardening test dozens of new products and tools. Here is a
rundown of some of the new power tools we reviewed last year.
Metal
Wood
Vinyl
PVC
Multi-material miter saw
Evolution Power Tools’ R255SMS+ 10-in. single-bevel sliding compound
miter saw took what I call a “pinball path” to my shop, where it’s here to
stay. Part of the allure is that it is “multi-material,” meaning it can cut steel,
soft metals, wood, and plastic. The Evolution slider comes in four pieces,
assembly is easy, and the result is a surprisingly accurate setup. The first
project I used it on was a deck resurface with lots of 5/4x6 PT boards. Cuts
were clean, there was plenty of power, and the tool operated as it should,
but the only place dust didn’t collect was in the dust bag. The piles got so
big around the fence, table, and rail stops that the blade couldn’t travel all
the way through a cut.
The laser on mine got damaged in use but it was barely visible anyway. On
a trim job, I couldn’t cut 51⁄2-in. baseboard against the fence, which meant a
much slower process of cutting the baseboard while lying down and using
the saw’s bevel. The cuts were accurate, and with less volume of dust to
manage, the saw was easier to use. Another thing that bugged
me was the saw’s soft start—soft enough to make me wonder if it
would ever hit full rpms. For dialing-in miters, cheating the saw up
to the cutline, or any on-off activity, it got to me, so I put the saw in
a corner of my shop and nearly forgot about it.
Then I got a project installing powder-coated aluminum track
and balusters for a deck railing. I’ve cut similar materials with a
conventional miter saw and metal-cutting blade, but cutting aluminum
track with the Evolution was fantastic (which makes sense because the
manufacturer has been making saws for the steel and fabrication industry for
over 20 years). Cuts were clean, and the chips were much better contained
in the saw’s blade guard. I then used it on a variety of remodeling projects
and learned to accept its shortcomings, because it’s extremely light and easy
to move. While it’s not perfect, I think its metal-cutting abilities make it a
lightweight companion to your everyday miter saw.
—Mark Clement is a carpenter and author
of The Carpenter’s Notebook (2019, CenterLine Media).
26
EVOLUTION POWER TOOLS R255SMS+
Weight: 34 lb.
Max crosscut at 90°: 113⁄4 by 39⁄16 in.
Max crosscut at 45°: 81⁄4 in. by 39⁄16 in.
Max crosscut 45° bevel: 81⁄4 in. by 2 in.
$320
Photos: courtesy of Evolution Power Tools
NEW FROM MICHAEL PEKOVICH
ONS OF
I
T
A
D
N
U
FO
NG
RKI
O
W
D
O
O
W
gies
ilding strate
es and bu
qu
ni
ch
te
y
iner
Essential jo
MICHAEL
PEKOVICH
Expert advice, videos,
tips, and more
Foundations of
Woodworking gets to
the very core of the craft
of woodworking: laying out,
cutting, and assembling
joinery for furniture and other
treasured wood objects.
Michael Pekovich dives into a step-by-step,
project-by-project description of the essential
wood joints, from rabbets and dadoes through
mortise-and-tenons to dovetails and miters.
Master these joints and the door is open to
create just about any design you can think of.
Sign up for
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© 2020 The Taunton Press
Available at TauntonStore.com
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TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
27
POW ER TOO L S
▶
N E W TO MARKE T
Plunge without the plug
METABO HPT
M3612DA
$400
Smooth and powerful. The Metabo managed a deep cut in white oak
without hesitation, leaving behind a perfect surface.
28
Adding to a number of cordless trim routers on the market,
including its own, Metabo HTP (formerly Hitachi Power Tools)
has introduced a dedicated cordless plunge router.
Its power, endurance, and cut quality are excellent.
This is a powerful, full-featured plunge router that includes
1⁄4-in. and 1⁄2-in. collets, an excellent edge guide, a bushing
holder, and a full set of bushing guides. The ergonomic
handles, easy trigger lock, smooth plunge action, and positive
plunge lock are all user-friendly. The dust-collection attachment
works great, too, even with a bushing guide in place, making
mortising much faster and easier. Thanks to an included
alignment pin, the bushing holder is also easy to center,
making bushing-guided routing more accurate. It also offers
soft start and adjustable speed.
A 36-volt, 2.5 amp-hr. (Ah) battery and charger come with
the router. You can also plug it in with an optional adapter
that slides into place where the battery would go ($160).
My main issue with the cordless version of this router is
its 131⁄32-in. plunge capacity, which meant I couldn’t fully
withdraw my 1⁄2-in.-dia. mortising bit into the base. The rest
of my bits, however, from 3⁄8 in. down, worked fine. Also, the
handles are only comfortable when held
from the front, and the flat section
on the base is also at the front. That
means you have to turn the router
around to place the flat side against
a fence, making the handles less
comfortable. Otherwise, the M3612DA
is an excellent cordless tool.
—Asa Christiana is a woodworker and
freelance writer in Portland, Ore.
How low can it go? The plunge capacity is just shy of 2 in., meaning
longer 1⁄2-in. bits may stick out. Other bits, like the 3⁄8-in. one used to cut
this mortise, fit just fine, however.
Photos: Asa Christiana
N
EW
!
46
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TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
29
POW ER TOO L S
▶
R E C I P S AWS
TOOL TEST
MILWAUKEE
HACKZALL 2719
Cordless
Recip Saws
A head-to-head comparison
of one-handed saws built
for tight spaces
B Y
T I M
POWER 18v
PRICE $160 (bare tool)
SPECS 7⁄8-in. stroke | 3000 spm | 5.0 lb.*
This tool’s performance made it easy to
pick a clear winner. After I labored through
lengthy cuts with a few of the other
saws, the Hackzall surprised me with the
impressive cutting speed and smooth,
low-vibration operation that I’d expect from
a full-size saw. The longer stroke (7⁄8 in.)
certainly contributed to the aggressive
cutting capability, and the smooth operation
under load makes this tool a pleasure
to use. Of all the saws in this test, the
Hackzall is the best overall performer—a
compact saw that can handle serious
demolition, light-duty cutting work, and
anything in between.
S N Y D E R
O
n construction and remodeling job sites everywhere, cordless power
tools have largely replaced their corded predecessors. Competition
among tool manufacturers fueled the innovations necessary for this
change—higher amps for raw power, greater amp-hour ratings for longer run
time, and fast charging to eliminate downtime. To further sweeten the deal,
brushless-motor technology has enabled manufacturers to reduce tool weight
and eliminate a troublesome maintenance task.
The cordless reciprocating saws reviewed here reflect these innovations.
Instead of sticking to the elongated barrel shape that has defined this tool
category since Milwaukee sold its first Sawzall in 1951, manufacturers have
come up with a variety of compact designs. These models offer less
in the way of brute power but much more in terms of portability
and operating options.
Why buy a compact reciprocating saw?
In its full-size form, the reciprocating saw is a demolition
demon, a tireless workhorse for cutting through materials
of all types and thicknesses. But these old-school saws are
definitely designed for two-handed use, and they can be
difficult or impossible to maneuver in tight spaces. You
know what I mean if you’ve ever tried to use a full-size
saw under a sink, in a crawlspace, or between closely spaced
30
* All tools weighed with
batteries shown
MAKITA RJO3
POWER 12v
PRICE $99 (bare tool)
SPECS 1⁄2-in. stroke | 3300 spm | 3.5 lb.*
The Makita is light for its size, and its
secondary trigger located close to the
blade provides useful gripping options.
The adjustable shoe is nice, although it
requires an onboard Allen wrench. Thanks
to a protruding nub on the blade holder,
you can turn the locking mechanism even
if you’re wearing gloves. The holder stays
open until a new blade is inserted. I found
the trigger locks aggravating to use, because
you need to depress the lock button while
simultaneously pulling on the trigger. And the
saw didn’t live up to expectations in cutting
tests.
BOSCH PS60
POWER 12v
PRICE $110 (bare tool)
SPECS 1⁄2-in. stroke | 3000 spm | 3.0 lb.*
This pocket-size saw will get into tight quarters that
are impossible for other saws to access, but its cutting
capabilities are similarly small. It took more than a
minute for this saw to cut through a 2x4, and we
stopped our timed cuts through nail-embedded stock
and steel pipe—the process just took too long. That
said, remodeling and home-repair jobs are full of
cutting challenges where compact size trumps
cutting speed. This saw will easily cut PVC
pipe, drywall, sheathing, or a few studs.
Getting the
most from a
smaller saw
D E WALT DCS312
POWER 12v
PRICE $150 (bare tool)
SPECS 5⁄8-in. stroke | 2800 spm | 4.0 lb.*
Performance-wise, this saw landed in the middle
of the pack. Its light weight and compact size
make it an attractive addition to a remodeling tool
kit. The tool also has a very comfortable grip and
good ergonomics overall. The DCS312 wouldn’t
be a good choice for powering through demanding
demolition tasks, but it should do fine for a wide
variety of light-duty jobs. Good ergonomics and a
comfortable grip make it an easy tool to hold.
Photos, except where noted: Melinda Vazquez
If you decide to add one of these
saws to your tool arsenal, there
are several ways to get the best
performance. For starters, don’t
use aggressive, coarse-cutting
blades with just a few teeth per
inch (tpi). In most cases, the
short stroke on these saws (1⁄2 in.
on some models) won’t allow
the big teeth to cut properly. For
powering through wood, you’ll
get faster cuts and less vibration
using a blade with around 6 tpi.
If your saw has a fixed (nonadjustable) shoe, you won’t be
able to adjust it to expose sharper
teeth as a blade becomes worn.
To keep cutting effectively, put
in a new blade, or change your
cutting angle to keep fresh teeth
in the cut.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
31
framing. The compact cutters we tested are a lot easier to maneuver in
cramped spaces. Unlike their big brothers, they’re designed to be used
comfortably and effectively with one hand, which is an additional
advantage when you’re working in tight quarters. But these smaller
saws are also handy for many cutting tasks that don’t demand a
full-size model, such as cutting drywall or plastic pipe, trimming a
few protruding nails, cutting openings in sheathing, and downsizing
demo material to fit in a dumpster.
Testing the small saws
The seven saws in our test group share a number of useful features.
They can be used with one or two hands, although a 10-finger grip on
the pistol-shaped Bosch saw might feel cramped. The batteries include
charge indicators to help avoid the inconvenience of premature power
loss. (The Bosch saw locates the indicator on the tool housing.) Each
saw has a trigger lock for safety and an LED light that turns on
automatically when the tool is in use. You can expect toolless
blade changes from all the saws too.
Our test sessions identified differences in cutting performance and
also in general use. Before we get into those details, it’s important
to note another difference as well: how the saws are sold. You can
expect plenty of variations, along with limited availability due to
supply-side shortages. You might only have the option of buying
the bare tool, which works out well if you’ve already invested in
the manufacturer’s battery platform. But different kit configurations are also in the mix, including a range of hard or soft cases,
chargers, and spare batteries.
KOBALT KRS 124B-03
POWER 24v
PRICE $100 (bare tool)
SPECS 1-in. stroke | 3000 spm |
5.0 lb.*
The Kobalt saw is the clear winner
for best value. It has a long stroke,
cuts fast, and has the highest-voltage
battery of the saws in the test. What’s
more, this saw came close to the more
expensive Milwaukee and Metabo HPT
models in cutting performance and low
vibration. Overall, it makes the grade
as a serious demolition tool, and at an
attractive price.
For serious demolition, three saws made the cut
I wondered how close a smaller, lightweight cordless saw would come
to the cutting characteristics of a full-size saw. As you’ll see in the
descriptions of the individual saws, cutting capability—specifically,
how fast a saw cut through our test materials—varied quite a bit. Some
of this variation is attributable to stroke length. Saws with longer stroke
lengths were able to cut faster. The only saw that departed from this
pattern was the Metabo HPT. This saw’s cutting capability benefited
from slightly higher strokes per minute (3100 spm vs. 2800 spm or
3000 spm for the other saws) and a very low vibration rate.
It’s fair to say that forcing compact, lightweight cordless saws through
tough cutting tasks sets an unreasonably high bar. The good news
about all the saws in this tool category is that every model is fully
capable of solving problems that occur every day in construction and
remodeling work. Who wants to haul a full-size recip saw into the
attic just to cut a 4-in. hole for a vent? Wouldn’t it be nice to have a
small, lightweight saw when you’re on a ladder trimming branches
away from a service mast? Why use a heavy tool just to cut through
drywall? In these situations and many more, any saw in this test group
will provide all the cutting capability you need.
If you want a saw that can handle all the small stuff plus some serious
demolition work, three tools stood out as all-purpose performers. The
Kobalt saw offers plenty of power and capability for a very reasonable
price. The Metabo does everything well and doesn’t force you to
give up the adjustable shoe that’s standard on big saws. And the
Milwaukee does its pedigree proud by cutting not just faster than
the competition, but smoother as well.
☐
Tim Snyder is a writer and finish carpenter in Newtown, Conn.
32
Photos facing page, bottom: Patrick McCombe
RIDGID R86448
POWER 18v
PRICE $130 (bare tool)
SPECS 3⁄4-in. stroke | 3000 spm | 6.0 lb.*
This was the only saw in our test that can be switched to cut with
orbital action, but that mode didn’t yield faster cutting times than
those of the Milwaukee, Metabo, and Kobalt saws. There’s also more
vibration than I expected, given the Ridgid’s larger size and heavier
weight. This tool’s shiny wire shoe provides more visibility than the
stamped-steel versions on other saws, and it certainly won’t trap
debris like bulkier shoes can. However, it has the same limitations
as the other fixed shoes.
METABO HPT 602266890
POWER 18v
PRICE $110 (bare tool)
SPECS 1⁄2-in. stroke | 3100 spm |
5.0 lb.*
I’d be tempted to buy the Metabo HPT
saw for its toolless shoe adjustment
alone; it’s the only model with this
feature. It did well in other areas too.
Despite its short stroke, cutting speed
was surprisingly good, and cutting
was nearly as vibration-free as with
the smooth-sawing Milwaukee.
Metabo’s blade holder accepts
T-shank jigsaw blades for tightradius cuts that aren’t possible
with standard recip blades. This is
a well-made saw that can handle a wide
variety of cutting tasks.
STUD CUT
STEEL PIPE
TORTURE TEST
The performance tests we came up with involved making timed cuts in three different materials:
framing lumber, steel pipe, and 2x4s with 16d nails embedded every inch (the “torture test”). All
saws were fitted with blades supplied by Starrett. For the three materials, we used a coarse woodcutting blade, a multipurpose blade designed for nail-embedded wood, and a metal-cutting blade.
The Milwaukee, Metabo HPT, and Kobalt saws had the fastest cutting times.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
33
POW ER TOO L S
▶
M I T E R S AWS
TOOL TEST
Compact Cordless
Miter Saws
A veteran carpenter
puts eight ultraportable
sliders to the test
B Y
34
B E N
B O G I E
A
lthough the trend in the last 10
years seems to be increasingly
bigger and heavier sliding miter
saws, I started my career over 20 years
ago learning on an 81⁄2-in. Hitachi, so returning to this size of saw feels familiar.
There’s a lot to like about sliders this size.
The small blades deflect less than larger
blades, resulting in exceptional cuts, but
the ability to easily carry the saw to the
work site with one hand and get right to
work cord-free is the real reason to get
one. For this test, I limited our selections
to 71⁄4-in. saws, assuming that this will be a
super-portable second saw to complement
the larger miter saw you probably already
Photo, this page: Rodney Diaz
45°
45°
45°
57°
METABO HPT
C3607DRAQ4
BARE TOOL $990
BATTERY AND
CHARGER $170
BLADE DIAMETER 71⁄4 in.
VOLTAGE 36
CROSSCUT 90° 21⁄4 in. by 1213⁄16 in.
CROSSCUT 45° 21⁄4 in. by 89⁄16 in.
WEIGHT 34 lb.
48°
48°
have. I also included the 71⁄2-in. Makita because it seemed close enough.
If you’re used to a corded saw, you may
assume these battery-powered versions are
just for punch lists, but modern high-capacity batteries mean you can set up one of
these saws in the morning and cut a day’s
worth of trim without ever tripping over a
RIDGID
R48607
BARE TOOL $380
BATTERY AND CHARGER $150
BLADE DIAMETER 71⁄4 in.
VOLTAGE 18
CROSSCUT 90° 2x8
CROSSCUT 45° 2x6
WEIGHT 25 lb.
48°
48°
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
35
CRAFTSMAN
CMCS714M1
45°
KIT WITH BATTERY AND
CHARGER $250
BLADE DIAMETER 71⁄4 in.
VOLTAGE 18
CROSSCUT 90° 2x8
CROSSCUT 45° 2x6
WEIGHT 26 lb.
0°
cord. I compared all the models, side by
side, making cuts in 2x stock, 3⁄4-in. plywood, 5/4x6 poplar, and 1x9 hard maple.
I quickly plunged the saws into 2x stock
to evaluate their power and cut quality. I
made crosscuts in wide maple to check for
wandering cuts. The Achilles heel of sliders is play in the sawhead. Excessive play
causes the blade to wander and creates
a belly-shaped cut in wide pieces. At full
extension, most of these saws had minimal head movement—I was surprised. The
Craftsman and Kobalt had the most play,
with the DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, and
Metabo HPT having almost none. The others fell in between.
Controls and features
47°
47°
1°
46°
D E WA LT
DCS361M1
KIT WITH BATTERY AND
CHARGER $480
BLADE DIAMETER 71⁄4 in.
VOLTAGE 18
CROSSCUT 90° 2x8
CROSSCUT 45° 2x6
WEIGHT 29 lb.
48°
48°
48°
KOBALT KMS
0724B-03
48°
BARE TOOL $270
BATTERY $100
CHARGER $45
BLADE DIAMETER 71⁄4 in.
VOLTAGE 21.6
CROSSCUT 90° 2x10
CROSSCUT 45° 2x6
WEIGHT 30 lb.
48°
36
Out of the box, only three saws had their
miter and bevel stops and pointers properly calibrated: the Metabo HPT, the Makita,
and the DeWalt. I make it standard practice to check and calibrate a new saw, but
it’s nice when you don’t have to. All of
the saws have front miter locks and bevel
locks in the back. Milwaukee has a miterdetent override, a nice feature when working close to a detent. The Kobalt makes
you hold up the lock lever to pass detents,
which I found awkward.
For bevel locks, the Makita and Metabo
HPT have short-throw levers that are quick
and effective. The Metabo HPT has a beveladjust knob that allows you to dial in the
exact setting. All of the saws have compact
footprints compared to 10-in. and 12-in.
miter saws, which is nice for portability,
but also means there isn’t a lot of room
to support stock. Makita and Metabo HPT
include accessory wings that expand the
saw table. The small footprints also mean
that some of these saws couldn’t crosscut
through the 83⁄4-in. maple. The Makita,
Metabo HPT, and Kobalt saws have larger
crosscut capacity.
Many of the saws feature a shadowline
cut indicator, which I find superior to lasers
as they’re crisp and don’t require eventual
adjustment while also illuminating the cut
zone in low-light conditions. Notably, the
Ryobi and Makita feature neither a light
nor a laser, which felt like a glaring omission. The Metabo HPT was the only one
in the pack to use a laser, which is quite
good, and also includes onboard lighting
with two brightness settings.
48°
Photos, except where noted: Melinda Vazquez
Build quality and power vary
As far as material quality, machining, and
assembly, the Makita and Metabo HPT saws
are very close, with a slight advantage to
the Metabo HPT. The Ryobi and the Kobalt
scored lowest in this area. For power and
cut quality, it’s hands down Makita with
Metabo HPT very close behind. Both of
these saws feel more powerful than the others and absolutely plow through cuts with
no noticeable hesitation or blade run-out.
The cut surfaces were smooth, square,
and straight. The Ryobi was the least powerful-feeling while still delivering fair cut
quality, and the Craftsman had adequate
power but a great deal of blade run-out,
resulting in poor cut quality. An honorable mention goes to the Ridgid, as it’s
well-powered, bevels in both directions,
and makes decent cuts, even in hardwood.
MAKITA XLS02Z
BARE TOOL $630
TWO BATTERIES WITH
DUAL-PORT CHARGER $230
BLADE DIAMETER 71⁄2 in.
VOLTAGE 36
CROSSCUT 90°
21⁄16 in. by 113⁄4 in.
CROSSCUT 45°
21⁄16 in. by 83⁄8 in.
WEIGHT 34 lb.
45°
5°
47°
57°
And the winner is …
For me, it all comes down to quality of cut
and precision of the adjustments. Overall,
the Makita and Metabo HPT saws are the
clear leaders. They are beautifully executed saws with excellent cut quality. I’ll
gladly take either for the most demanding
finish carpentry. But for me, the Metabo
HPT takes the crown. It has excellent cut
quality, great capacity, and dual-bevel
capabilities, and was the only one with a
bevel-adjustment knob. You can also run it
with a 110-volt adapter. My only complaint
is that I’d prefer a shadowline cut indicator
instead of the laser.
The Makita saw is a close second; it has
phenomenal cut quality and power, great
capacity, and great build quality, but loses
points for missing lighting and no cutline
laser or shadow, and it’s only single bevel.
Next in line are the Milwaukee and DeWalt
saws, which are perfectly adequate, but
lack the refinement and precision of the
Metabo HPT and Makita. The budget winner here is the Ridgid. It’s a good-quality
tool with strong features and decent performance at a good price.
Note: For the specs listed here, we
weighed all the saws and checked miter
and bevel capacities ourselves. Battery
offerings by manufacturer are varied and
changing—we’ve done our best to present
a fitting comparison for each tool if a kit
was not available for purchase.
☐
Ben Bogie is project manager for BPC Green
Builders of Ridgefield, Conn.
48°
48°
MILWAUKEE
2733-21
KIT WITH BATTERY AND
CHARGER $550
BLADE DIAMETER 71⁄4 in.
VOLTAGE 18
CROSSCUT 90° 2x8
CROSSCUT 45° 2x6
WEIGHT 28 lb.
48°
48°
45°
RYOBI PBT01B
BARE TOOL $230
BATTERY AND
CHARGER $130
BLADE DIAMETER 71⁄4 in.
VOLTAGE 18
CROSSCUT 90° 2x10
CROSSCUT 45° 2x6
WEIGHT 25 lb.
0°
47°
47°
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
37
POW ER TOO L S
▶
ROUT E RS
Compact
Routers
Corded or cordless, these “trim” routers
are strong and versatile
B Y
O
A S A
C H R I S T I A N A
nce known as laminate trimmers,
or “trim routers” for short, based
on their main job—trimming the
edges of laminate countertops—these
one-handed routers are commonly called
“compact” these days. That’s because they
are used for so many tasks, and their manageable size is what sets them apart.
Most trim routers originally offered just
one fixed base, in keeping with their mission. As these routers began to grow in
power and popularity, manufacturers began to add other bases, specifically the
plunge base, allowing mortising, inlay, and
lots of other essential woodworking tasks.
Some compact routers now boast a hefty
11⁄4 hp, and none of our favorites offer less
than 1 hp. But there’s a limit: Once a router
motor gets too fat to hold in an averagesized hand, it requires side handles and
doesn’t fit this category anymore.
Because they are so easy to balance
and control, compact routers are the type
woodworkers and contractors reach for
most these days.
The power limit has a downside of
course. These routers are only offered with
1⁄4-in. collets, encouraging woodworkers
to avoid using the biggest bits with them.
That said, bit manufacturers are offering
larger and larger bits these days with 1⁄4-in.
shafts, to keep up with the popularity of
these tools. And if you take cuts in stages,
lowering the depth each time, you can
make larger bits work.
But a compact router will never be a
substitute for a full-size tool for heavyduty routing tasks, like deep mortising and
38
large profiles. Those large bits will always
cut more smoothly with a 1⁄2-in. shank, a
larger motor, and two hands controlling
it. Also, while a compact router will work
in a table setup, a larger router is a much
better solution.
Cordless vs. corded
While battery power makes any power tool
more convenient, cutting the cord on a
router improves safety and cut quality too.
Without the troublesome tether dragging
behind and catching on corners, your pace
and your path are steadier, and you can
focus your hands and eyes on the work.
With its emphasis on agility and control
over pure power, the trim router was the
obvious candidate for the first wave of
compact, cordless routers. I tested the first
six a couple of years back, and power and
run time were not a problem for the best of
them. So if you have the budget for battery
power, go with a cordless compact router.
However, choosing a corded model will
save you some cash without compromising
performance. You’ll have the cord to drag
around, but that’s not hard to manage. And
you won’t run out of juice.
What matters most on any router is
power, control/balance, cut quality, adjustments, and visibility of the cutting area in
the base. On these compact routers, the
availability of both fixed and plunge bases
is another big factor, as well as run time
for the cordless models.
Asa Christiana is a woodworker and freelance
editor and writer in Portland, Ore.
MUCH MORE
THAN A LAMINATE
TRIMMER
No longer just a countertop
installer’s tool, today’s trim
routers excel at a variety of
woodworking tasks. From
routing mortises for hinges and
inlay to rounding over edges and
trimming edge-banding flush,
the best new routers offer a
winning combination of power,
precision, and control.
INLAY
HINGES
BANDING
EDGES
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
39
THE FEATURES
THAT MATTER
Corded models
Aside from their smaller power
plants, compact routers should
perform as well as their full-size
cousins.
BIT ADJUSTMENT
Ideally, a router should be able
to handle micro and macro
adjustments equally well, and
lock any setting securely in
place.
CONTROL
To check balance and control
on a narrow surface, Christiana
ran a flush-trimming test. Top
honors went to routers with
larger bases and lower centers
of gravity.
VISIBILITY
You shouldn’t rout where you
can’t see. To test the LEDs on
the routers that have them
and the overall visibility on
all, Christiana routed a hinge
mortise with each tool, working
freehand up to a set of scribe
lines.
BIT CHANGES
The bases should be easy
to remove and reattach, the
locking nut should turn freely
until it cinches down tight, and
the motors should be easy to
hold. All of the routers have
spindle locks.
40
BOSCH PR20EVS COLT
Price: $130 (plus $118 for plunge base)
Power: 1 hp
Bases: Fixed included; plunge, offset, tilt,
roller available
The Bosch Colt took top honors in Paul
Johnson’s 2017 trim-router test in Fine
Homebuilding magazine, and recent users
agree. The experienced cabinetmaker and
remodeler preferred the body of this router
(vs. the DeWalt) for smaller hands, and
found that the textured finger-holds make it
both comfortable and easy to control. The
baseplate provides the best line of sight in
the category, according to Johnson, and both
macro and micro depth adjustments are
smooth and precise.
Usage photos: staff; tool photos: courtesy of manufacturers
Cordless models
D E WALT DWP611PK
BOSCH GKF12V-25N
MILWAUKEE M18 FUEL
Price: $210 (kit); $142 (fixed-base only)
Price: $113 for bare tool; plus $50 for
battery and charger
Power: 12v
Base: Fixed
Price: $140 for bare tool with fixed base,
$250 with 18v/5Ah battery and charger,
plunge base adds $77
Power: 11⁄4 hp
Bases: Fixed and plunge included in kit
Widely hailed as the best compact router
on the market, the cordless version also
excelled in my test. This smooth, powerful
router feels very solid and stable on
both of its bases, and both bases adjust
beautifully. The 11⁄4-hp motor powers large
bits without vibration or hesitation, and
has two LEDs that flood the work zone
with light. My only quibble is that the
motor can be a little tricky to hold firmly
on the bench for bit changes. Users also
love this router, based on thousands of
five-star reviews. The DWP611PK is a
great first router kit for beginners, and
the fixed-based version is perfect for
experienced woodworkers and contractors
looking to add a beautifully balanced trim
router to their collections.
The Bosch Palm Edge Router lacks the
Milwaukee’s plunge base and a bit of
its power, but those drawbacks are also
advantages. The smaller battery and
unique shape—curved to hug your hand
in various positions—place the center of
gravity very low, and the elongated base
is extremely steady on the inboard side
of overhanging cuts. Despite its 12-volt
battery, the Bosch displayed excellent
strength and stamina. It struggled just a
little with my heaviest cut but still powered
through the full 144 linear feet on a
single charge. Bit changes are a breeze,
and the clever macro/micro adjustment
mechanism makes depth changes quick
and precise. The Bosch lacks LEDs, but its
base allows in plenty of light and offers
good sightlines.
Power: 18v
Bases: Fixed and plunge
The Milwaukee is the best cordless
router on the market. The brushless
motor and 18-volt “Red Lithium” battery
powered a large molding bit through
144 ft. of hard maple and the profile
was glassy smooth. The 5 amp-hour
battery had plenty of juice left at the
end. Balance is excellent and the larger
accessory baseplate is helpful. Bit
changes are easy too. Depth changes
are quick and precise, with both a macro
and a micro adjuster, and the base locks
firmly. Visibility is excellent through a
large opening in the base, and LEDs
flood the work area with light. Milwaukee
recently added a plunge base for this
router, which takes it to another level.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
41
POW ER TOO L S
▶
M ULT I TO OL S
Oscillating Multitools
Corded and cordless versions of a unique problem-solver
B Y
I
nvented by Fein in 1967 for sawing off
plaster casts without cutting skin, this
unique oscillating tool soon crossed
over into the building trades, where it
became invaluable for surgery of another
sort—remodeling.
Fein dubbed the non-medical version the
Multimaster, adding a quick-change head
and a host of handy attachments, from triangular sanding pads to diamond-abrasive
42
A S A
C H R I S T I A N A
blades for mixed materials. When the German company’s patent ran out in 2009,
other brands jumped in with a variety of
new “multitools,” including more affordable versions for the budget-minded.
As they’ve been from the beginning, the
most popular attachments are sawblades.
Where a reciprocating saw (such as a Sawzall) would be too large and rough, and
a hammer and chisel too tedious and un-
wieldy, a multitool can reach almost anywhere and make a precise cut in under a
minute.
Like other contractors and carpenters,
Oregon builder and remodeler Josh Oduin
uses his multitool most often for cutting
back trim to accommodate new flooring—
or the reverse: cutting back existing flooring to accommodate something new. Very
helpful here is how the flat sawblade rides
Photos: courtesy of the manufacturers
Best corded models
Corded multitools offer the most power and unlimited run time. Our
picks all have very secure attachment systems. Models and prices
cited here include the tool only (with few to no accessories), but
kits are available at a small premium, with a variety of cutting and
scraping blades and other popular attachments.
FEIN MULTIMASTER
MM 700 MAX
Price: $430
Power: 450 watts (0.6 hp)
Fein’s corded and cordless lines of multitools include three
levels of performance and durability. The 700 level is the
highest, designed for pros who need unmatched power and
precision, and the most durable attachment system. The
700-level tools use the StarLock Max system, which also
accepts attachments designed for Fein’s other tool. Fein’s
corded oscillating tools consistently receive the highest editorial
and user ratings, and their attachment systems are the most
positive and secure. Therefore, the MM 700 MultiMaster is the
best of the best in corded multitools.
D E WALT DWE315K
Price: $180
Power: 3 amps (0.4 hp)
FEIN MULTIMASTER MM 500 PLUS
Price: $180
Power: 350 watts (0.4 hp)
For less than half the price of the Fein MM 700, contractors and
DIYers can get the MM 500, another pro-level tool with Fein’s
very secure StarLock Plus attachment system. While the motor is
slightly smaller on this model, and the attachment system a little
less beefy, it represents a major step up from Fein’s entry-level
MM 300 series, for just a few bucks more, making it perfect for
contractors and DIYers who might not need it every day.
DeWalt’s corded multitool has thousands of user ratings, with five
stars across the board. And its quick, secure attachment system
rivals Fein’s. Contractors love the onboard LEDs, and the unique
paddle switch that lets them vary speed on the fly, allowing better
accuracy at the beginning of a cut. The DeWalt DWE315K is the
favorite multitool of former Fine Homebuilding editor Justin Fink, who
loves the blade-change mechanism: “It requires no wrenches and
has no loose parts—just a stiff, spring-loaded lever that unclamps
the toothed jaws on the business end of the tool. The only caution
here is that you have to be careful when buying blades; many are not
compatible with DeWalt’s.”
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
43
Go cordless
if you can
As lithium-ion batteries have improved and come down in cost, most of the contractors I interviewed have
switched over to cordless multitools, for the ultimate in convenience and accessibility. The following models are
equal enough that users can choose according to the batteries they own. If batteries are not a major factor for
you, I’ve also highlighted a best overall choice that also happens to be an amazing value.
D E WALT 20V MAX XR (DCS356)
Price: $120 for tool only; $180 with one battery, charger, and
accessory kit
Batteries: 20 volt
Like its corded model, DeWalt’s cordless multitool has thousands
of user ratings, with five stars across the board. It offers a
brushless motor and a quick, secure attachment system that’s
very similar to Fein’s StarLock. Contractors also love the onboard
LEDs, and the unique paddle switch that lets them vary the
speed on the fly, allowing extra precision at the beginning of a
cut. There is also a switch that provides three speed ranges.
FEIN MULTIMASTER AMM 500 PLUS
BOSCH GOP18V-28N
Price: $156 for tool only
Batteries: 18 volt
Price: $150 for tool only
Batteries: 18 volt
This is the latest cordless multitool from Bosch, upgraded to match
the features and performance of the top tools in this category.
Like the others on this list, it has a brushless motor for increased
power, matching its corded cousin, plus Fein’s unmatched Starlock
attachment system. An onboard LED improves visibility, and an allmetal gearbox promises increased efficiency and durability.
the new material to cut a perfect pocket
in the old.
As Oduin puts it, the multitool specializes
in “refined cuts in confined spaces.” Common jobs include removing damaged or
rotten sections of wood, cutting out window frames, cutting clearance notches in
framing, making cutouts for outlet boxes,
cutting through finished panels to access
plumbing, and too many other carpentry,
44
Fine Homebuilding tested its predecessor in 2017, when remodeler
Steve Smith found the tool relatively quiet and comfortable to use,
and noted zero play in the quick-change StarLock system. The newer
Fein AMM 500 offers a unique DC motor that promises the same
power as corded models. Like all Fein Multimasters, it isolates
the motor to dampen vibration and cut noise, making it more
comfortable to use.
remodeling, and DIY tasks to list here.
Trade the wood-cutting blade for a demolition version, and you can cut through
nails and screws too.
After sawblades, the second-most popular attachment is a small, triangular sanding
head, which gets into tight corners where a
sanding disk won’t reach, letting remodelers and refinishers restore original architectural elements.
Other blades can pry out grout without
damaging tile, or scrape away paint and
adhesives.
A must-have for most tradespeople, the
unique, versatile multitool can be very
handy for DIY remodelers too. Like a track
saw, a multitool is something you need to
own before you appreciate all the things
it can do for you.
FESTOOL VECTURO
Price: $375 for tool only
Batteries: 18 volt
Festool’s multitool has a brushless motor,
isolated from the housing to cut vibration and
noise, and it uses Fein’s excellent StarLock
Plus attachment system, making it precise
and powerful with all accessories. It’s also
relatively compact, for better maneuverability
in tight spaces, and offers a unique, optional
base that guides precise plunge cuts in any
location, with a built-in depth stop.
MILWAUKEE M18 FUEL
MAKITA XMT04Z SUB-COMPACT
Price: $230 for tool only
Power: 18 volt
Price: $230 for tool only
Power: 18 volt
Drawing 5-star user ratings across the Web, Milwaukee’s latest cordless
multitool matches the competition with a brushless motor and an
effective vibration-dampening system. Users also applaud the loadmonitoring system, which starts the tool slowly for better precision and
increases power and speed as needed. While its tool-attachment system
is not as quick as some others, it’s toolless and secure, and accepts
accessories from a variety of other systems, helping users save cash on
blades. The M18 Fuel also includes an excellent LED, with a 180° sweep
for good visibility in low light.
What matters most in a multitool
While power and speed are important,
veteran users point to the quick-change
attachment system as the most critical feature on an oscillating multitool. Like the
Fein Multi-Master itself, Fein’s StarLock
(and StarLockPlus) toolless system is the
industry standard, combining fast, easy
changes with a solid, secure grip. Others
like DeWalt and Festool have followed
Makita’s newest cordless multitool offers a heavy-duty build and
a brushless motor, with a counterbalance system that makes
it very smooth in use, drawing rave reviews from users. More
importantly, the XMT04Z trades the less-secure attachment
system on its predecessor, the XMT03—which involved a bolt that
not only slowed changeovers but also could be lost—for Fein’s
StarLock Max system, which is the best in the business. The new
model also adds an LED for better visibility.
Fein’s lead, either by borrowing the same
system or inventing something similar.
Brands that have adopted pin-style attachment systems, on the other hand,
get lower marks from users, who cite increased vibration and sloppiness, which
leads to decreased power and precision.
Big savings on cordless models—On
the cordless front, because there is excellent
parity between top models, you can save a
lot of cash by buying a bare tool (no batteries or charger) that fits the battery system
you’ve already invested in.
With that in mind, we’re offering up
more picks in the cordless category, making it more likely you can find one that fits
the batteries you already own.
☐
Asa Christiana is a woodworker and freelance
editor and writer in Portland, Ore.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
45
POW ER TOO L S
▶
T RAC K S AWS
Today’s Track Saws
Corded and cordless models
for all users and budgets
B Y
T
A S A
C H R I S T I A N A
ake a handheld circular saw, mold the base to fit an aluminum track, line the bottom of the track with rubber strips,
add a sacrificial strip of plastic along one edge, and you’ve
created woodworking magic.
The first cut trims the plastic strip flush with the blade, which
then eliminates chipping on future cuts, and makes it simple to
line up the track with your pencil marks. Plop the track down on
any surface, line it up in any direction, drop the saw into place,
and make a flawless cut—all in seconds, from setup to sawdust.
A track saw also plunges smoothly in and out of stopped cuts,
and tilts sideways to cut smooth, accurate bevels.
As any user will tell you, you have to own a track saw to understand all the ways it will make your life easier. For woodworkers,
carpenters, and cabinet makers, it’s the best tool for breaking
down large sheets of plywood and MDF. It’s also perfect for cross-
46
cutting big slabs, ripping a reference edge on rough lumber, and
fitting inset doors and drawer fronts. Sink cutouts? Back-bevels
before scribing? Long, clean miter joints? All that and much more.
For beginners and DIYers, a track saw offers a safer, less expensive alternative to the tablesaw. It won’t guarantee parallel cuts or
square corners, but with careful layout, you can cut out accurate
parts of all sizes.
What matters most in a great track saw
The first modern track saw, the Festool TS 55, was an immediate
hit. Many other brands and models followed. While Festool still
stands alone at the top of the category, there are great alternatives.
The key to identifying the top performers and best buys is understanding what matters most in this tool. Power and smoothness
of cut are at the top of the list.
Photos: staff
MORE THAN A PLYWOOD SAW
If you work with sheet goods, you’ll appreciate the
track saw’s ability to come to the work. Instead of
wrestling a plywood sheet onto a tablesaw, you can
slide it onto sawhorses and cut without breaking your
back or damaging the sheet. The saw also tilts for easy
bevel cuts. Best of all, you can cut at any angle, so you
can put a straight edge on crooked boards, or align an
edge with the grain and even use the saw to fit a door
or a panel into an opening.
Break down sheet goods
Another key factor is the stability of the track on a variety of
surfaces, without clamping. All of our favorites grip surfaces well,
and have nice track clamps available for the odd time when they
don’t. The length of the standard track matters a lot too, as well
as the cost of longer tracks or add-ons.
Cutting depth is more important to woodworkers than cabinetmakers, due to the types of material they work with. Here, track
saws fall into two overall categories. The majority have blades
around 6 in. dia. with just over 2 in. of cut capacity, while a couple
of others have larger blades—and larger motors to power them.
Cordless models are in the smaller category for now.
Adjustments should be smooth and precise, from bevel angle
and depth of cut to how snug the saw fits on its ribbed track.
Plunge action should also be smooth, and efficient dust collection
is always a plus.
Kickback devices vary—All but one of our picks have a device
intended to prevent kickback. Most have a small riving knife that
sits in the blade kerf during cuts, helping to prevent material from
pinching the back of the blade. But these pivot upward during
plunge cuts, which is when you need them most. The latest Festool
cordless saw has a better solution to kickback (see the TSC 55 KEB,
on p. 49), and the Wen saw addresses the issue in an altogether
different way.
The bottom line: If you are careful and controlled when plunging and sliding the saw, you shouldn’t get kickback. If you do, it’s
likely to be mild, and tracks are relatively affordable to replace if
they are damaged by blade contact.
Put a straight edge on lumber
Asa Christiana is a woodworker and a freelance editor and writer
in Portland, Ore.
Trim doors and drawer fronts
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
47
Our favorite corded saws
Although battery power and run time continue to trend upward, corded
models still offer the best combination of price, power, and cutting depth.
FESTOOL TS 75 EQ-F-PLUS-FS USA
Price: $860 with 75-in. track
Power: 1600 watts (2.15 hp)
Depth of cut: 23⁄4 in.
Festool’s largest track saw stands alone at the top of the category. A newly
engineered blade makes it even more powerful and efficient. It was last tested by
Fine Woodworking in 2016, when Mark Edmundson said, “The Festool TS 75 EQ was
the powerhouse of the lot, blowing through the thickest, toughest materials, with an
unmatched depth of cut. There was no blade deflection, cuts were very smooth, and
the track side of the blade kerf was super-clean. Bevel cuts were very clean and
accurate.” He also noted that the plunge action and depth setting were the
easiest of any saw in the test, adding that the track did not slide on any
material. Festool also sells excellent track clamps, which can be
operated with one hand.
MAKITA SP6000J1
FESTOOL TS 55 FEQ-F-PLUS-FS
Price: $450 with 55-in. guide rail
Power: 12 amps (11⁄2 hp)
Depth of cut: 23⁄16 in.
Price: $700 with 55-in. track
Power: 1200 watts (1.6 hp)
Depth of cut: 21⁄8 in.
In the FWW and FHB tests cited above and right, the Makita was
the most comfortable and easy to use among the mid-priced
models, and recent users agree with its best-value status. It has
a comfortable handle position, very smooth plunge action, and
its track is very stable, with no clamps needed. It hesitates just
a little in the thickest hardwoods, but powers easily through
everything else, with a scoring setting that delivers chip-free cuts
in melamine. Like the Festool saws, it has a little tab that keeps it
level on the track when tipped over to 45°.
48
The TS 55 was Festool’s first-ever track saw, and they continue to
refine it. Functionally identical to the TS 75, aside from a smaller
blade and motor—and lower price tag—it’s the perfect choice for
woodworkers and cabinetmakers who don’t need the additional depth
of cut. While lighter than the TS 75 and a little easier to handle, its
1,200-watt motor is surprisingly powerful. In a 2015 test in Fine
Homebuilding, the TS 55 sliced through thick oak with ease, and
made clean cuts in melamine particleboard. Like all Festool track
saws, it offers smooth plunge and sliding action, and a host of other
thoughtful touches.
Photos: courtesy of the manufacturers
Best cordless track saws
As power and run time continue to rise, and the relative cost of cordless tools keeps dropping, more and more power-tool users are cutting
the cord. While cordless track saws have smaller blades and shallower depth of cut, the best have amazing power and run time.
FESTOOL TSC 55 KEB
Price: $800 with 55-in. track, batteries, and rapid charger; bare tool is $500
Power: 36 volts, 5.2 amp-hours
Depth of cut: 21⁄8 in.
Cutting the cord on a Festool track saw makes a great tool even better. The
TSC 55 KEB has two 18-volt batteries on board, which team up to deliver
amazing power and run time. You can also remove one of the batteries on this
tool, to keep one in the charger and make the saw easier to handle. As with all
Festool track saws, you get furniture-quality cuts, smooth adjustments, perfect
plunge action, and great dust collection.The TSC 55 KEB has a very effective
new sensor that replaces the riving knife, making any kickback extremely brief
and harmless—to you and the track. This will be most helpful to pros who tend
to make more cuts and make them faster.
MAKITA XPS01PTJ
Price: $620, with batteries, charger, and 55-in. track
Power: 36 volts, 4 amp-hours
Depth of cut: 23⁄16 in.
By all reports, the Makita’s power, run time, and cutting
speed are an even match with the amazing Festool TSC
55. While cuts aren’t quite as glassy, users won’t notice
the difference in the vast majority of applications. Like
the Festool saws, Makita’s cordless model has a brushless
motor with variable speed for different materials, smooth
plunge action, a stable track, excellent adjusters for
sliding action, and a tab that keeps the saw flat on the
track during bevel cuts. Unlike the Festool, it lacks a
riving knife, and its two 18-volt batteries must be used
in tandem, but those factors won’t be a big deal for most
users.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
49
MAC H INE S
New to market
Each year, the experts at Fine Woodworking, Fine Homebuilding,
and Fine Gardening test dozens of new products and tools. Here is
a rundown of some of the new machines and related tools that we
reviewed last year.
Heritage brand bandsaw
The recent resurrection of the South Bend brand of machines brings
a renowned name back to the marketplace, and the SB1080 16-in.
bandsaw is a worthy part of the company’s lineage. I made a bunch of
sawdust with various soft and hard woods and was impressed with the
saw’s smooth power and vibration-free operation.
The saw’s a beast, with a 3-hp motor (230 volt/12 amp), heavy castiron wheels, and an overall weight exceeding 475 lb. The wheels are
very well balanced. Their weight provides a lot of inertia, helping the
blade maintain a constant speed so it cuts at its most efficient rate—an
important factor for a machine with 14 in. of resaw capacity. A very
effective foot brake can quickly bring the rotating mass to a halt.
The large table, measuring 207⁄8 in. by 255⁄8 in., is a very heavy casting
that is supported on stout trunnions. Angling it for bevel cuts is no issue
thanks to a rack-and-pinion system. The two-position aluminum fence
slides smoothly and locks accurately. The distance from the guides to
the saw frame is 13 in. with the fence and 153⁄4 in. without.
Smooth-running roller guides keep the blade tracking and require
an Allen wrench for adjustments. The lower guide set has the thrust
bearing mounted beneath the side roller guides; that creates extra space
between the upper and lower thrust bearings, but it didn’t detract from
the saw’s performance.
A small storage space below the lower wheel is separated from the
dust and has its own door to store extra blades or accessories.
—Roland Johnson is a woodworker and tool expert
in Sauk Rapids, Minn.
Two dust ports.
Dust collection
is adequately
handled through
two 4-in. ports.
One is positioned
immediately
beneath the lower
blade guides and
the other is at the
bottom of the lower
wheelhouse.
50
BANDSAW BY
SOUTH BEND
Model SB1080
$3,000
Angling the
table is easy
and accurate.
The heavy table
tilts using a
rack-and-pinion
system, making
adjustments for
bevel cuts very
accurate with little
frustration.
Photos: Roland Johnson
ONEIDA DUST
DEPUTY
2.5 Deluxe,
10 Gal. Cyclone
Separator Kit
$199.95
New cyclone separator
from Oneida
For the past 10-plus years, I have used Oneida’s firstgeneration Dust Deputy mounted to the top of a 5-gal. plastic
bucket. It did exactly what you expect it to—separated the
dust, leaving it in the bucket instead of in my expensive dust
extractor bag. The system worked great, but the unit was top
heavy and therefore prone to tipping over. Even though I
devised workarounds, I still sometimes avoided the setup to
spare myself the hassle.
In contrast, Oneida’s new Dust Deputy 2.5 Deluxe 10 Gal.
Cyclone Separator Kit is a pleasure to use on top of working
well. The cyclone still separates dust nicely, but the tippiness
is gone thanks to the added weight from the metal barrel and
the unit’s wide stance. The 10-gal. bucket holds ample dust
but isn’t so large it’s unwieldy to empty. The kit’s six 11⁄2-in.
casters let the unit roll easily over mats and cords.
The kit comes with a high-quality, 51⁄2-ft.-long, crushresistant hose to run from the separator to your dust
extractor, as well as a strip of foil tape to mount to the
separator if you’re worried about static buildup in the
separator.
One downside to the metal barrel is that there is no visual
indicator that the barrel is full.
Oneida also sells the Dust Deputy 2.5 in packages with just
the cyclone itself up to one with a 5-gal. plastic bucket. But,
if you can swing it, the Dust Deputy 2.5 Deluxe 10 Gal. kit,
with its heavy metal drum, is fantastic.
—Ben Strano is editor of FineWoodworking.com.
Smooth-cutting dado stack
Whiteside Machine Co. recently partnered with manufacturer
Dimar to offer a line of tablesaw blades, including this 8-in.
dado set. This is a top-of-the-line set.
The blades have thick plates and carefully ground
carbide. The configuration is typical, consisting
of two 44-tooth outside cutter blades, and a set
of chippers enabling dado cuts from 1⁄4 in. to
13⁄16 in. wide in standard fractions. All the teeth are
ground to a negative 6° hook. The set also comes
with an extensive set of plastic shims, helpfully
color coded, so you can dial in exact dado widths
between those fractions of an inch. This can be very
helpful when working with laminates and plywood.
The blade yielded very smooth cuts in all types of material. I ran it
with solid oak and maple, oak and birch veneer plywood, and plastic
laminate on MDF. All the cuts were very smooth without any visible
chipping or tearout, even a cross-grain cut in oak veneer plywood.
—Charlie Durfee is a professional woodworker in Woolwich, Maine.
Photo (bottom): Barry NM Dima
DADO SET BY
WHITESIDE
No. 8443DADO
$250
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
51
MAC H INE S
▶
D US T C OL L E C TORS
TOOL TEST
Wall-Mounted
Dust Collectors
52
Photos:
Photos: Asa Christiana
W
hen woodworkers are considering
dust-collection options, wall-mounted
models often get overlooked. Designed
to save valuable floor space in tight workshops,
these come in a range of sizes, with smaller units
best dedicated to one machine or two, and larger
ones capable of pulling chips at a distance from
four or more.
I recently took a close look at six of these units
to see how they stacked up. While there are more
than six on the market, I limited the field to those
with filtration of 3 microns or better. That left in
dust collectors with pleated cartridge filters and
heavy felted bags, and left out the thin, frankly
outdated bags that only grab larger chips and
particles, while emitting clouds of fine dust at
head height.
I also eliminated cyclone collectors, some of
which can be mounted on the wall but are much
larger and generally cost much more than these
small, single-stage units.
These space-saving units
have the power
to get the job done
B Y
A S A
C H R I S T I A N A
Of the six I tested, five are similar in size and
power—at 3⁄4 to 1 hp—and allow a measure of
portability if additional wall brackets are placed
around the shop. The sixth is much larger: a heavy
11⁄2-hp model designed to stay put and connect to
multiple machines.
To assess the portability and power of the units,
and to see how each model might be used most
effectively, I put them through a series of basic
tests. Along the way, I looked at their overall chip
capacity and what it’s like to dump and reattach
the bag, a frequent task that should be straightforward.
Real-world power test
The primary test for any dust collector is power,
its ability to pull chips through a typical hose
of a given length. While manufacturers provide
airflow ratings for their units—in CFM, or cubic
feet per minute—these are sometimes based on
the blower motor only, without the filter attached,
which significantly affects bottom-line efficiency.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
53
Two ways to use them
Five of the wall-hung dust collectors we tested are 1 hp or less, and each
will do a fine job collecting chips and dust from a machine placed a
few feet away. The sixth—a much larger, heavier unit from Rockler—is
capable of acting as a central dust collector in small shops.
Single-machine
specialists. Use
one of the smaller
dust collectors as
a companion to
a larger collector
placed elsewhere
in the shop. By
dedicating a wallmounted model
to one or two
machines, you can
avoid stretching
a long hose from
your main collector.
So I devised my own power test, designing it to be fair to the
five smaller units but relevant to the big guy too. Using a standard
4-in.-dia. hose, roughly 6 ft. long, I connected each wall-hung collector to my jointer-planer combo machine, and made 100 passes
over the jointer with large fir timbers, 21⁄2 in. thick by 30 in. long.
The jointer directs chips into the semi-closed chamber between
the cutterhead and planer bed where the dust port is located. After
each set of passes I could compare how many chips remained
uncollected by each unit.
In general, while I could discern power differences between
the five smaller units, they were minor. Each one collected more
than 95% of the chips and dust produced—the same result I get
with my large 11⁄2-hp rolling dust collector, albeit with a longer
hose. So I can say with certainty that each of these smaller wallmounted collectors will do a fine job in your shop, provided that
you keep hose runs shorter than 6 ft. or so.
The big unit from Rockler was a different animal, sweeping the
jointer chamber almost clean throughout the test, meaning it could
handle a much longer hose than the 6-footer in my test—no doubt
up to 10 ft. or more—and therefore act as a central unit connected
to three or four machines with a system of blast gates.
Bag capacity and attachment are important too
Five of these units have canister-type filters, dropping chips into
clear plastic bags that hang below. One Shop Fox model gathers
Larger model
can do it all. The
11⁄2-hp Rockler is
strong enough to
pull chips from
10 ft. away, letting
it serve a range
of machines in a
compact shop on
its own. Keep in
mind, though, that
while wall-hung
collectors save
space compared
to floor models of
similar power, they
have smaller bags,
which means more
frequent emptying.
54
Real-world testing
To compare the power of the units in use, Christiana hooked up each
collector to his jointer-planer with 6 ft. of hose, and made 100 passes
over the jointer with a 21⁄2-in.-thick, 30-in.-long fir timber. In the process
he noted bag capacity, and assessed the ease of emptying each unit.
Joint and check.
The combination
machine directed
chips into a semiclosed space under
the jointer table,
which has a 4-in.
dust port. He lifted
one jointer table
after 40, 80, and
100 passes to
document the chips
left uncollected.
chips and dust in the same felted bag that serves as its filter. The
five smaller collectors, including the Shop Fox with the felted bag,
have nearly identical capacity, with each comfortably accommodating the 100 jointer passes before they had to be emptied.
Strangely, the big Rockler 1250 had the smallest bag, which
overflowed with chips before the jointer test was over. However,
the taller bag from the Rockler 650 unit happens to fit the 1250
even better, and packs of five are available from Rockler for $10.
As for emptying and reattaching the bags, the best plastic ones
stayed stretched over the bottom of the canister when empty, freeing up both of my hands for re-attaching their long band clamps.
The felted bag was more troublesome to deal with.
Reality check on portability and best uses
While some manufacturers suggest that users buy additional hanging brackets and move the smaller models around the shop as
needed, I’m not buying it as a solution to whole-shop dust collection. Even the lightest unit is 40 lb., and the models with cartridge
filters are all 50 lb. or more. Moving any of those regularly would
be a pain in the back for all but the burliest lumberjack. This reality became very clear as I shouldered the units on and off their
brackets during testing.
That’s why I would consider all of the wall-mounted units I
tested as stationary fixtures, with the key differences being the
hose runs each can support while delivering effective suction to
the end of the hose.
In small shops like mine, one of the five smaller models would
make a great companion to a larger dust collector. I probably
would put the wall-hung unit near my tablesaw, saving me from
dragging a long flexible hose across the floor from my rolling
11⁄2-hp dust collector, which sits near the other major machines.
And I wouldn’t lose a foot of floor space. So think of the smaller
units as companion collectors for out-of-the-way machines.
For even smaller shops, with too little floor space for a rolling
unit, the Rockler 1250 could serve as a main dust collector, hung
in a convenient spot and connected to multiple machines with
blast gates.
Capacity and bag
changes. Five of
the six bags are
equal in size, and
easily handled
the 100 jointer
passes. Ease of
bag changes varied
between units.
Asa Christiana is a woodworker, writer, and photographer in Portland, Ore.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
55
Wall-mounted dust collectors, head to head
The “good”
suction
ratings on the
five smaller
collectors are
relative to hose
length. If each is
kept close to a
tool or machine,
the efficiency
rises to excellent.
Chip capacity
was virtually
equal on the
smaller units.
GRIZZLY G0785
RIKON 60-101
Price: $415 with canister
Motor: 1 hp
Weight: 54 lb.
Filtration: 1 micron canister
Suction: Good
Chip capacity: Good
Emptying bag: Very good
Price: $750 with canister
Motor: 1 hp
Weight: 54 lb.
Filtration: 1 micron canister
Suction: Good
Chip capacity: Good
Emptying bag: Fair
ROCKLER
DUST RIGHT
650 CFM
Price: $700 with canister
Motor: 3⁄4 hp
Weight: 57 lb.
Filtration: 1 micron canister
Suction: Good
Chip capacity: Good
Emptying bag: Very good
Seemingly identical to the Shop Fox W1844,
the Grizzly G0785 collected a few less chips
in our test—but was still roughly average
among the five small models. Emptying was
easy, thanks to a bag that stays in place
on the canister while you operate the band
clamp, which also works well. Both units
hang well on their brackets.
The Rikon’s power and capacity are
comparable to the other smaller models, but
a few issues held it back. Because the chip
bag hangs a bit loosely on the canister, it
tends to slip off during changes. On the plus
side, it’s the only small collector with a 5-in.dia. intake, so if you discard the Y-junction
with the 4-in. ports, and run a 5-in. hose
closer to your machines, you’ll add efficiency.
While all five of the smaller units will collect
chips efficiently when deployed properly, the
3
⁄4-hp Rockler was just a bit more powerful in
our suction test. Bag changes were very easy
too, thanks to a lip on the lower edge of the
canister, which holds the bag in place while
you operate the clamp. The Rockler 650 also
hangs very solidly on its bracket, which helps
when you turn the filter-cleaning crank.
Easy bag changes. The Grizzly’s plastic bag
wraps tightly over the canister, freeing up your
hands for the band clamp.
Tricky bag. The Rikon bag tends to slip off its
canister while you are positioning the band
clamp. Practice helps.
Easy bag changes too. A handy lip on the
bottom of the canister keeps the bag tightly in
place while you operate the clamp.
56
ROCKLER
DUST RIGHT
1250 CFM
Price: $980 with canister
Motor: 11⁄2 hp
Weight: 78 lb.
Filtration: 1-micron canister
Suction: Excellent
Chip capacity: Fair with
standard bag
Emptying bag:
Fair with standard bag
The big motor on this collector left the
chamber under my jointer very clean. You’ll
need help to get this heavy unit onto its
bracket, but if you’re looking for a central
dust collector that won’t gobble floor space,
this may be the unit for you. Strangely, this
huge unit comes with the smallest plastic
chip bag, but you can replace that with a
taller one from Rockler.
Handy remote.
The big Rockler is
powerful enough
to serve as a small
shop’s main dust
collector, and comes
with a remote.
Replace the bag.
The small bag on the
Rockler 1250 is easily
replaced with the
taller type from the
Rockler 650.
SHOP FOX W1844
SHOP FOX W1826
Price $680 with canister
Motor: 1 hp
Weight: 54 lb.
Filtration: 1-micron canister
Suction: Good
Chip capacity: Good
Emptying bag: Very good
Price: $300
Motor: 1 hp
Weight: 40 lb.
Filtration: 2.5 micron felted
bag
Suction: Good
Chip capacity: Good
Emptying bag: Fair
Although seemingly identical to the Grizzly
G0785, the Shop Fox W1844 delivered
slightly better suction than the Grizzly. Bag
changes are easy on both machines, thanks
to a nice-fitting bag that stays in place while
you operate the band clamp. And both units
hang solidly on their brackets.
The thick, felted bag on this Shop Fox is a
plus and a minus. On one hand, it makes the
unit much less expensive than collectors with
canister filters, and also lighter and easier to
hang on the wall. Without a separate plastic
bag to catch chips, however, they stay in
the felt bag, and the shortish zipper on the
bottom makes it tough to shake them out.
Otherwise, the W1826 is an excellent value.
Good power. Barely edged out by the Rockler
650, the Shop Fox W1844 demonstrated
admirable efficiency after 100 passes.
Head outside to dump it. Packed chips come
out slowly at first so it’s a good idea to empty
this thick bag outdoors.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
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MAC H INE S
▶
TA B LE S AW S
Best Tablesaws in Every Size
From portable models to big cabinet saws,
there’s one for everyone
B Y
T
A S A
C H R I S T I A N A
he tablesaw is an essential tool for
woodworkers and contractors, and
new safety equipment makes the latest models better than ever. But hobbyist
woodworkers often have different needs
than pros, and a portability is king for most
contractors.
Regardless of your budget, space requirements, and woodworking needs, there’s a
great tablesaw for you. I’ll lean on recent
tablesaw tests in Fine Homebuilding and
Fine Woodworking magazines, as well as
thousands of user ratings and my own de-
58
cades of experience to highlight outstanding models in almost every category.
One exception is cordless tablesaws.
While battery power continues to improve,
a tablesaw is a relatively stationary tool,
even on job sites, so most of us don’t need
to trade an endless supply of 110 or 220
volts for a battery pack, no matter how
large it is. So I’ll skip the cordless category
and focus on models that make sense for
most people.
In the mid-range position, between portable saws and full-size cabinet saws, is a
group with both open and closed bases.
The open-base models are often called
“contractor” saws, but these are falling out
of favor these days. Portable saws have
gotten so good that most people jump up
to a closed-base model when they get serious about woodworking. So I’ll stick with
those in the mid-range, and then jump
up to full-size, 3-hp cabinet saws for the
ultimate in power, performance, and cut
capacity.
Although both types of closed-base cabinet saws—mid- and full-size—are large
Photos, this page and p. 60 top right: staff
PORTABLE MODELS
While a few job-site models are available with 8-1⁄4-in.-dia. blades, to make them smaller,
lighter, and more portable, I focused on models with 10-in. blades and 15 amps of power,
letting them rip though hardwoods up to 3-1⁄8 in. thick—just like the larger saws in this article.
SAWSTOP JOBSITE SAW PRO
Price: $1,580, includes rolling stand
Power: 15 amps
Rip capacity: 251⁄2 in.
SawStop introduced its first compact, job-site model in 2015, tweaking
the design and re-releasing it as the “Jobsite Saw Pro” in 2019. Both
models have received excellent reviews. Packing the blade-braking
technology into a compact frame isn’t cheap—or light—but it makes this
saw the clear winner in its category. The SawStop has an excellent rolling
cart, and a T-style fence, with high and low fence positions. The paddletype switch is the largest in this category, making it easy to kill the power
if a workpiece gets jammed.
D E WALT DWE7491RS JOBSITE TABLESAW
Price: $650, includes rolling stand
Power: 15 amps
Rip capacity: 321⁄2 in.
For less than half the price of the SawStop, woodworkers and
contractors can get this excellent job-site tablesaw from DeWalt. All
it lacks compared to the SawStop is the electronic blade-braking
technology. The telescoping rip fence offers 32 in. of rip capacity and
rides on a rack-and-pinion system that keeps it parallel to the blade.
It also features all-metal internal components, excellent power and
smoothness, and great dust collection for a portable saw.
GRIZZLY G0869
BENCHTOP TABLESAW
Price: $705, $535 (without stand)
Power: 15 amps
Rip capacity: 28 in.
Reviewed positively in Fine Homebuilding, this saw is sturdy
and powerful, with rack-and-pinion fence. It includes outfeed
extension and earned 4+ stars in most places. If you can leave
your saw on a shopmade stand, skip Grizzly's optional stand
and save some cash.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
59
MID-SIZE CABINET SAWS
These heavy-duty cabinet saws represent a big jump up from portable
saws in almost every way. While their stated horsepower is similar, these
saws have induction motors, which are built for a lifetime of use, and
are far quieter than the roaring universal motors in job-site models.
And these motors ride on heavy-duty, cast-iron trunnions, with smooth,
precise cranks for blade height and tilt. The enclosed cabinets make dust
collection more efficient, and support large, cast-iron tables and sturdy
rip-fence systems. The size of the motor is the main difference between
these cabinet saws and the full-size models. These run on 110 power,
meaning you won’t have to install a 220-volt circuit.
LAGUNA FUSION F1 TABLESAW
Price: $1,200
SAWSTOP PROFESSIONAL CABINET SAW
Rip capacity: 30 in.
Price: $3,787 (base model)
Power: 13⁄4 hp, 110 volts
Rip capacity: 30 in. (more capacity available in other versions)
Even without its well-known blade brake, the SawStop is a great saw.
It has very good ripping power. The fence locks tightly and glides
smoothly. The tilt and elevation wheels have no backlash, and turn
beautifully. Overall, the SawStop PCS175 is excellent. Throw in its
safety device, and it’s tremendous. SawStop offers a variety of builds
for this saw. You can upgrade the rip fence to the larger T-glide version,
and add either of two mobile bases (I recommend the “ICS,” which
raises, rolls, and drops beautifully).
and heavy, their manufacturers offer excellent mobile bases for them, letting you
slide them out of the way in smaller shops.
What matters most in a tablesaw
Let’s start with the elements all users need.
While power varies between saw sizes, we
can agree that more power is better when
cutting thick lumber, especially hardwoods. Smoothness of cut (determined by
blade wobble and vibration) is also critical,
as are the accuracy of the rip fence and
smooth, precise adjustments.
60
Power: 11⁄2 hp, 110 volts
The Fusion F1 offers fantastic value in a mid-size cabinet saw.
Power and performance are excellent. Despite its 11⁄2-hp motor,
the saw ripped through thick maple without hesitation. Blade
elevation and angle adjustments are smooth and easy. The
robust rip fence slides easily and accurately, with a unique
feature that allows you to slide off its main face and replace it
with any number of shopmade fences or jigs. And the upper saw
cabinet now has a separate floor, making dust collection even
more effective. At just under 200 lb. this compact cabinet saw is
fairly light, making it very convenient for a small shop, especially
if you add the wheel kit (just $75).
But if portability is paramount for you,
or budget is a big factor, our favorite jobsite tablesaw models prove that compromises can be made without losing the
ability to make smooth, accurate cuts.
While portable models can’t match the
power, accuracy, and vibration-dampening mass of stationary tablesaws, nor the
dust-collection efficiency of their closed
cabinets, they perform very well at a fraction of the price.
To get the benefits of a full-size cabinet
saw on a budget, consider the used ma-
chinery market. If you have the technical
aptitude for a thorough tune-up, you could
land an amazing tool at half-price or less.
New safety technology
There’s no doubt that SawStop’s unique
flesh-sensing, blade-braking technology
has the ability to prevent catastrophic
injuries. The first SawStop tablesaw
revolutionized the industry in 2004, and
the technology has been proven many
times over in the decades since. I own a
SawStop cabinet saw myself, and though
Photos, except where noted: courtesy of the manufacturers
FULL-SIZE CABINET SAWS
The main difference between this category and the previous one is motor size. These saw cabinets enclose big
3-hp motors, able to power the blade through the thickest hardwoods without hesitation. Motors of this size
require 220-volt circuits, so you may need to hire an electrician to install one of those in your workshop.
SAWSTOP PROFESSIONAL CABINET SAW
Price: $6,272 (with 3-hp motor and 36-in. T-glide fence)
Power: 3 hp, 220 volts
GRIZZLY G1023RL
Rip capacity: 36 in. (52-in. model available)
Price: $2,325 ($2,425 with built-in router table)
This is an upgraded build of the same SawStop featured in the
previous category, with a larger motor and a larger T-glide fence. I’ve
owned this model for three years, equipped with the router table
and the industrial-level (ICS) mobile base, and I can’t come up with
a single complaint. Like most cabinet saws, this one is shipped
with the table and fence system detached, but assembly was
straightforward, thanks to an excellent instruction manual and very
high manufacturing standards. Simply put, this smooth, powerful,
accurate tablesaw is a joy to use. By the way, SawStop sells an even
larger, heavier industrial cabinet saw, with 3-, 5-, and 7-hp motors,
but I think that model is only necessary for all-day operation in a
large, professional shop that’s cranking continuous product.
I haven’t accidently activated the blade
brake yet, I love the peace of mind it
brings to my shop.
While SawStop has fiercely defended its
patent, the rest of the tablesaw industry
hasn’t rested on its laurels, adopting a
critical safety improvement that applies to
all saws sold in the United States (including SawStop). All modern tablesaws must
have a European-style riving knife, a huge
improvement on the tall, fixed splitters in
older North American saws. Unlike the
inconvenient, old-school splitters, which
Power: 3 hp, 220 volts
Rip capacity: 32 in. (60-in. system available)
Like the SawStop PCS, the Grizzly G1023RL is a versatile, heavyduty cabinet saw platform, with multiple configurations available.
The saw features a smooth, powerful motor; heavy-duty mechanical
components; accurate adjustments; large cranks; nicely ground
table; large, paddle-type power switch; and efficient dust collection. If
you’re looking for a full-size, heavy-duty, high-power cabinet saw at an
attractive price, this saw fills the bill. The integrated router table is an
especially great deal, though it won’t accept a router lift.
didn’t allow slotting (non-through) cuts
and were therefore cast aside by most users, the riving knife rises, drops, and tilts
with the blade, so it can stay just below the
top of the teeth at almost all times (other
than dado cuts). And when a riving knife
does need to come off temporarily, it pops
back on in seconds.
This is great news for woodworkers,
making it easy to keep the low-profile riving knife in place at the back of the blade,
where it can do its all-important job: sitting
in the blade kerf and preventing kickback.
Tablesaw kickback not only creates a lifethreatening projectile, but it can also drag
your hand into the blade. So having a riving knife in place makes it less likely that
you’ll need SawStop’s technology in the
first place.
In the end, the choice is up to you. Any
of the following saws, set up correctly, can
be operated safely by a knowledgeable
user.
☐
Asa Christiana is a woodworker and freelance
editor and writer in Portland, Ore.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
61
MAC H INE S
▶
PLANERS
Benchtop Planers
Get smooth surfaces on the toughest woods
B Y
R
oughly the same size as a large
toolbox, the benchtop planer is a
wonderful innovation. Before these
came on the scene, woodworkers had to
invest in an industrial, floor-standing model to smooth rough boards and plane them
to custom thicknesses.
Despite their compact size, benchtop
planers can plane boards as wide as 12 in.
or 13 in. and up to 6 in. thick. And while
they can’t take as a deep a bite as an industrial planer, they tend to leave an even
smoother surface, thanks in part to their
rubber rollers (large planers have serrated
steel rollers that sometimes leave tracks
on the wood).
Benchtop planers are also simple to use.
The best have a depth gauge that helps
you set the initial cutterhead height for
any board, ensuring that the feed rollers
will grab it firmly and pull it through the
machine. All you have to do is insert the
board in one side, and walk around to
receive it on the other.
A S A
C H R I S T I A N A
D E WALT 735X
Price: $640
Power: 15 amps
Width: 13 in.
Knives: 3, two-sided HSS
T
he DeWalt was the Best Overall benchtop planer in a 2016 test in Fine Woodworking, and no
other planer has knocked it off its perch since. Still tops in editorial reviews and user ratings,
the 735X excels in every performance category. Its double-edged disposable knives make
them a snap to switch over or replace. More importantly, they produce amazing cut quality on a
wide range of woods, thanks in part to the machine’s two-speed feed rate, which lets you slow
the rollers for maximum cut quality on the final pass. The 735X produced perfectly uniform
thickness in our test, and had the best dust collection, thanks to an internal blower system.
WEN PL1326
Price: $428
Power: 15 amps
Width: 13 in.
Cutters: 26,
two-edged HSS
62
T
he new PL1326 includes a spiral, segmented
cutterhead as standard equipment, armed with 26
two-edged, high-speed-steel (HSS) cutters. These produce
smooth surfaces on the toughest woods, and are easy
to rotate when the first edge chips or dulls. While HSS
cutters are not as durable as the carbide inserts in the
aftermarket Byrd Shelix cutterhead (opposite page), they
will hold an edge significantly longer than standard steel
knives. Also, whether HSS or carbide, segmented cutters
tend to produce smoother surfaces with less noise.
Although Wen is a relative newcomer to the woodworking
world, users report that the PL1326 is very solidly built,
with a cast-iron base and smooth adjustments. All this,
together with the segmented cutterhead, make it a nobrainer for our Best Value choice in benchtop planers.
Photos: This page, courtesy of the manufacturers; opposite: staff
But don’t mistake the planer for a jointer.
If you feed a bowed board into your planer, a bowed board will come out the other
side, though it will have uniform thickness.
That’s why woodworkers usually team
up their planer with a jointer, which will
create the straight, flat reference surfaces
needed for successful milling.
Even better: Add a Byrd cutterhead
to your DeWalt 735X
What matters most
With any woodworking machine, adequate
power, smooth cuts, and efficient dust collection tend to top the performance list.
Both of our picks tick these boxes, making very smooth cuts in a wide variety of
woods, with little to no snipe (over-cutting
near the beginning and end of a board).
With planers, you can add cutter changes
to the list of potential pain points. Planers cut more wood than any other machine, which puts a lot of wear and tear
on their cutters. If those cutters happen
to be straight knives, they should be easy
to access and change, as they are on the
DeWalt 735X, our Best Overall pick.
Segmented cutterheads are next-level—The big recent innovation in planers
(and jointers) is smaller, tougher cutters,
which dull more slowly and can be simply
rotated and retightened to expose a new
edge. These cutters are called “segmented,”
and they tend to make smoother cuts. They
are also quieter. The small cutters are arranged on a spiral, meaning at least one is
always engaged in the wood.
If you are interested in this new planer
technology, which not only makes cutter
changes easier but far less frequent and
delivers much smoother results at the same
time, you can buy a new planer that offers
these new cutterheads as standard equipment. That’s the case with the Wen planer.
Your other option is to retrofit an existing
planer with an aftermarket cutterhead.
Two planers stand out
Our two picks are a combination of timetested and new-to-market. The DeWalt
735X has been available for a long while
now, but it still takes top honors in every
editorial test and user poll. Wen is a newer
entrant to the power-tool market, but their
products have been turning heads with an
impressive combination of price, features,
and performance.
☐
Asa Christiana is a woodworker and freelance
editor and writer in Portland, Ore.
W
hile the high-speed-steel (HSS) knives and cutters on our two favorite
benchtop planers will create a glassy surface on all but the gnarliest woods,
and their edges are tougher than standard steel, they will still begin to dull before
too long. Enter the aftermarket Byrd Shelix cutterhead, which can be retrofitted into
most planers and jointers.
The Shelix is the industry’s best, made in Kentucky to a very high standard, with a
dense array of four-edged carbide cutters. These are arranged on a spiral, and their
slightly curved edges are shaped to match that helical curve, creating a shearing cut
for incredibly smooth results on the toughest woods.
Each edge of these curved cutters
will stay sharp at least 10 times
longer than HSS, and and be much
more resistant to nicks and dings.
And when one or all of the first edges
finally dull or get damaged, you simply
rotate the cutter(s) to use the next
edge (right). Due to the constant
cutting action and helical edges, your
planer will run much quieter as well.
There are two ways to add a Shelix
cutterhead to your DeWalt 735X.
If you are mechanically inclined,
you can buy the head for $545 and
install it yourself. Or if you’d like
to skip the work and don’t already
own the planer, you can purchase a
DeWalt 735X outfitted with a Byrd
Shelix cutterhead for $1,595 from
ByrdToolExperts.com.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
63
HAN D TOOL S
New to market
Each year, the experts at Fine Woodworking, Fine Homebuilding,
and Fine Gardening test dozens of new products and tools. Here is a
rundown of some of the new hand tools we reviewed last year.
VERITAS BEVEL-UP #1
PLANE
$210–$220
Handy bevel-up
bench plane
Although vintage Stanley No. 1 planes are scarce and very
costly, enough of them exhibit signs of wear to suggest that
these little planes were well-used tools and not novelties.
Veritas’s newly released version continues the tradition, but
with a bevel-up configuration to help with tasks that benefit
from the plane’s small footprint.
Much like a block plane, the Veritas No. 1 excels where
its small sole allows for finesse and control in fitting, sizing,
and shaping smaller parts. The plane has a sole 53⁄16 in.
long and 125⁄32 in. wide. The blade, 17⁄32 in. wide, is available
in 01 or PM-V11 steel. The bed angle is 15°.
Unlike the Stanley version, whose mouth is inconvenient
to alter, the Veritas has a moveable shoe in front of the
blade, which makes adjusting the mouth a snap. The shoe is moved
by loosening and tightening the front knob. A mouth-adjustment
screw regulates the positioning of the shoe and prevents it from
striking the blade.
Blade adjustment is also convenient. The Norris-style adjuster
moves the blade both vertically and laterally, although I prefer
gentle taps with a small hammer for precise lateral settings.
—Chris Gochnour is a furniture maker in Utah.
DIABLO SANDNET
SHEETS AND
BLOCK
$12
Better hand sanding
For years I used adhesive-backed sandpaper on a plywood
or cork block. I eventually realized that the expense of the
sticky-back sandpaper caused me to use each piece well past
its prime. A few months ago, out of curiosity, I grabbed a set of
Diablo SandNET hand sanding sheets and a sanding block. The
kit included a sanding pad and a few 80-, 120-, and 220-grit
sanding sheets.
The SandNET sheets, made of abrasive mesh, remain clear
much longer than traditional sandpaper, and in turn last far
longer. Since the mesh keeps from clogging, I was able to use
one 120-grit piece of mesh far longer than I expected—right up
64
until the adhesive on the grit eventually broke down. I would
love to see the SandNET paper made in 180-grit. The jump from
120-grit to 220 is too drastic for my tastes.
The sanding pad is made of two densities of foam with
hook-and-loop on both sides. One side is more dense, with
just enough give to it for 98% of my sanding tasks. It feels
very similar to sanding with a cork block. If you find yourself
sanding contoured pieces, such as cove molding, the other side
is much softer, letting it shape to a piece.
—Ben Strano is the editor of FineWoodworking.com.
Photos: staff
Combined square and level
SCRIBNER LEVEL
$180
As a small company in a small market, we perform a wide variety of tasks—from minor renovations
and repairs to new builds, often literally footing to finish. While some carpenters think the Scribner
Level is gimmicky, I find it to be an extremely efficient combo square and level, whether it’s used for
laying out stairs or rafters, or for finding the rake angle of a 150-year-old staircase. With the square
sitting in the middle of the level, you get a true 4-ft. double-sided fence on the square. This allows
you to start layout at the very corner of your lumber and work to the very end. The 4-ft. fence makes
spanning wane and other irregularities in lumber a breeze. When finding existing angles such as the
stairs, there is no second step—you proceed directly into layout. In my opinion, the combination
allows for speed and accuracy.
—Aron Jones is a carpenter in Grand Manan, N.B., Canada.
Premium dividers
Dividers are handy for taking measurements from an existing
pattern, transferring those measurements to the workpiece, and
laying out joinery. The model from Red Rose Reproductions
has become indispensable in my tool kit because of its ease of
adjustment, quality, and adaptability.
The dividers are designed with a friction hinge, allowing you to
adjust the legs with a simple squeeze. In most situations this is a
great advantage, as the more commonly found spring-adjustment
type of dividers are slower and more cumbersome to adjust
(though I do find their fine adjustments a little easier). The friction
setting on my Red Rose dividers was perfect out of the box—
neither too tight nor too loose. But if I ever need to adjust it, it’s
simple to do with a flathead screwdriver. The dividers arrived with
extremely sharp tips. They’re available in two sizes, 5 in. and 7 in.
I have the smaller ones and have found them sufficient for most
furniture components.
My favorite feature of these dividers is that they can be
transformed into a compass by replacing one of the legs with an
optional compass attachment ($22), letting you hold a pencil in
one leg to draw, rather than scribe, an arc. I purchased my dividers
enthusiastically once the compass attachment became available,
and haven’t had a moment’s regret.
—Mark R. Maleski is a woodworker
in the Washington, D.C., metro area.
RED ROSE
REPRODUCTIONS
DIVIDERS
$120–$130
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
65
HAN D TOOL S
▶
E S S E N T I A LS
Hand-Tool Buyer’s Guide
Two decades of tool tests reveal the essential kit
B Y
W
h e t h e r yo u ’r e t r i m m i n g
machine-cut tenons for a perfect fit, leveling one surface to
another, planing decorative chamfers, or
squaring up a router-cut corner, you can
count on hand tools to do the job quickly
and efficiently. They’ll also do it quietly.
Appreciation for the peacefulness and
pleasure of handwork has grown markedly in recent years, fueling an explosion
of products, from handmade collector’s
items to excellent factory-made options.
But with so many options available, it can
66
A S A
C H R I S T I A N A
be hard to know where to start. Luckily,
Fine Woodworking has been conducting
real-world tests on the best hand tools
for decades now, with the help of a small
group of trusted, independent experts.
In this article, I’ve compiled a list of the
tools that came out on top in our tests in
each essential hand-tool category. Whether
GOOD
VALUE
you’re at the beginning of your hand-tool
journey, or are looking to make a longawaited purchase, you can rely on these
recommendations to find excellent tools
that will soon become trusted friends.
Asa Christiana is a woodworker, editor, and writer
in Portland, Ore.
In addition to presenting the best tools in each category, we’ve also included,
where appropriate, a less expensive option that, while it may not quite measure
up to the winners, represents a good value for woodworkers on a tighter budget.
Photos: staff
Measuring
and
marking
STARRETT 12 IN., $110
Head is easy to remove and lock down;
well machined, easy to read, and an
excellent all-around performer.
For hand-tool work
especially, success starts
with accurate layout. There
are lots of measuring and
marking tools out there, but
sliding squares, marking
knives, and marking gauges
are must-haves. Here are
the best we found.
SQUARES
GOOD
VALUE
PEC 12 IN., $90
Very good product; nearly identical
to more expensive models from
McMaster-Carr and Brown & Sharpe.
STARRETT 4 IN., $104
PEC 4 IN., $50
Head is easy to remove,
replace, and lock down;
narrow blade, at 5⁄8 in.,
made it easier to fit
into tight places.
Good fit and feel
and comfortable
to use; locknut
occasionally
needed extra
tightening.
Phillip C. Lowe tested his two favorite types of
squares: the indispensable 12-in. combination
square, used for everything from measuring and
marking to setting up machines accurately; and
the handy 4-in. double square, which fits in your
apron pocket and is easier to handle for smaller
tasks. After trying out 61 products, he favored
Starrett and PEC for both types.
GOOD
VALUE
MARKING
KNIVES
HOCK VIOLIN KNIFE, DOUBLE-BEVEL, $33
Heavy blade stayed solidly on track in all situations.
BLUE SPRUCE CLASSIC MARKING KNIFE, $80
Spearpoint blade with a flat back made it a champ at laying out dovetails.
GOOD
VALUE
X-ACTO, NO. 1 PRECISION KNIFE, $4
As Steve Latta said in
his review, “Marking out
with a knife instead of a
pencil means that you care
about the details. A good
marking knife will do a
number of things well. It
will cut wood fibers cleanly,
leaving a narrow, crisply
defined line, easily visible
and deep enough to anchor
a chisel. The blade will fit
into tight spaces and the
tool will be easy to hold in
a pencil-style grip.”
Thin, flexible blade was nimble enough to trace delicate inlays.
MARKING GAUGES
TITE-MARK, $130
Has an excellent micro-adjuster.
Can be easily and precisely
adjusted with one hand.
Marking gauges do one thing
very well: mark a line parallel to
an edge. To narrow a crowded
field, Jeff Miller looked at cutting
gauges only—those that use a
knife or a sharpened wheel to
cut clean lines in any direction—
and eliminated pin-style gauges,
which tend to tear the wood
when used across the grain.
GOOD
VALUE
VERITAS,
STANDARD WHEEL,
$37
An O-ring inside the
fence provides just
the right amount
of friction to hold
it where you put it
but still allow it to
slide, making fine
adjustments easy.
67
Handplanes
LIE-NIELSEN
NO. 102, $160
There’s an overwhelming array of handplanes on
the market, for everything from smoothing boards
and trimming joints to shaping moldings. The
best come ready to make fluffy shavings, save
for a quick sharpening. Sharpening is easy too.
Thanks to blades with dead-flat backs, they need
only a light polish before you hone the bevel.
Adjustable
mouth for
coarse work or
tricky grain; all
adjustments smooth
and precise; very wellbalanced and comfortable to
hold.
Compact,
easy to set
up and adjust;
no better block plane
available for the money.
LOW-ANGLE BLOCK PLANES
These planes are effective on both end grain and
long grain, more comfortable in the hand, and
less prone to chatter than higher-angle, standard
block planes, making them the obvious choice if
you’re buying just one. As Mario Rodriguez pointed out in his review, a block plane’s small size
makes it easy to control on an assembled piece,
say for chamfering a table edge, and well-suited
for jobs like removing machine marks from
Well made and very
the edges and ends of a board, planing curved
comfortable, smooth
edges, and trimming joinery flush.
and responsive blade
VERITAS
LOW-ANGLE,
$170
VERITAS
DX60, $220
adjustments, adjustable mouth.
Largest and
heaviest
of the group;
comfortable, with
indents for fingers;
smooth, precise adjustments,
adjustable mouth.
JACK PLANES
LIE-NIELSEN NO. 5, $375
VERITAS 5 1⁄4W, $258
If you can afford only one bench plane
to start with, Jeff Miller recommends
the versatile jack plane, which handles
smoothing, but can also be used for the
flattening and straightening tasks often
reserved for the longer planes. While
the standard versions are easier for
beginners to adjust and handle,
the bevel-up blade orientation
in low-angle jacks (bottom row)
lets you alter the cutting angle by
resharpening.
Very well-machined; back
of the blade perfectly
flat; chipbreaker
seated fully against
the blade;
frog/mouth
adjustments
quick and
easy.
Great overall fit and finish;
Norris-style adjuster was
tight and precise; blade
was flat, easy to
sharpen; screws in
plane body prevent
lateral blade
movement during
adjustment.
LIE-NIELSEN NO. 62
LOW-ANGLE JACK PLANE, $295
Very well machined, flat blade back, flat sole,
and square sides; cut very well; blade and mouth
adjustments were precise and easy; using hammer
for lateral adjustments takes getting used to.
68
LIE-NIELSEN
NO. 601⁄2, $205
GOOD
VALUE
VERITAS LOW-ANGLE
JACK PLANE, $266
Adjustable mouth; Norris-style adjuster
was tight and precise; blade was flat,
easy to sharpen; screws in plane body
prevent lateral blade movement during
adjustment.
SMOOTHING PLANES
PLANES FOR TUNING TENONS
As Chris Gochnour said in his test, “Properly tuned and
sharpened, a smoothing plane can leave a pristine finish
on almost any board. Yet it is still compact enough to be
ideal for general planing jobs like fitting and trimming
parts.” Because so much rides on the finished surface,
quality means everything with this purchase. All three of our
recommendations will deliver flawless results, and all allow
mouth adjustments without removing the blade, a big plus.
Gochnour looked at both shoulder planes and rabbet block planes, the two types
of specialty planes he uses for fine-tuning tenons off the tablesaw. While some
woodworkers use the shoulder plane on tenon cheeks as well as on shoulders,
many turn to the wider rabbet block plane to shave thin, precise layers off the
cheeks. Both tools excel at cutting into corners, but used in tandem they fit
traditional tenons to perfection.
CLIFTON NO. 4, $390
VERITAS LARGE SHOULDER
PLANE, $243
Handled every test with ease;
a hefty tool, but perfectly
balanced; thick blade holds
an edge well and has a stout,
two-part chipbreaker; back of
blade needed some flattening,
a minor inconvenience.
Flawless tool; very comfortable to grip
with one hand or two; blade lapped
dead flat; mouth easy to adjust.
LIE-NIELSEN NO. 4,
BRONZE, $415
LIE-NIELSEN RABBET
BLOCK PLANE, $205
Well-crafted tool and a fabulous
performer; bronze version won’t
rust and adds nice heft; blade
adjustments easy and precise;
back of blade perfectly flat.
Cut quality is good; square, fullwidth blade cuts rabbets on both
sides; depth adjuster tended to
shift blade laterally, so you must
be careful.
GOOD
VALUE
WOODRIVER NO. 4,
V3, $215
Machining is clean and
accurate; mouth adjustments
finicky because the frog does
not travel in a machined slot;
blade adjustments smooth and
effective.
GOOD
VALUE
VERITAS SKEW BLOCK
PLANE, $230
Cut quality is excellent; easy to set up;
comfortable to hold; there’s a learning
curve associated with sharpening angled
blade; buy version that suits your favored
hand.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
69
Handsaws
Every woodworker needs a good handsaw or two to make quick, precise cuts
on parts that power tools can’t easily handle. Dovetail saws are essential for
their namesake joint, but they do a lot more. All-purpose backsaws, useful for
a range of joinery, are even more versatile than dovetail saws. Then there’s
the coping saw, which excels at handling curves. And Japanese saws, which
cut on the pull stroke, deliver speed, accuracy, and a thin kerf.
DOZUKI “Z” SAW, $40
Best crosscut
performer, also rips
adequately.
GOOD
VALUE
ALL-PURPOSE BACKSAWS
Also known as carcase saws, these larger joinery saws can do it all, making them
a great first handsaw for beginners, and a big-joinery specialist for those with a
dovetail saw already. These are Western-style saws, which cut on the push stroke,
with a thick spine down the back for stiffness. Of his four favorites, Gochnour
said, “They were sharpened extremely well, so they started easily, cut fast, and
tracked perfectly. They also performed well on both rip- and crosscuts.”
GYOKUCHO
DOVETAIL
SAW, 240MM,
NO. 311, $54
Made dovetail
cuts extremely
well at an
affordable price;
replaceable
blade.
GOOD
VALUE
BAD AXE 12-IN. HYBRID SAW, $245 AND UP,
DEPENDING ON OPTIONS
Not fastest, but ripped and crosscut equally well;
starts smoothly; most comfortable handle.
LIE-NIELSEN TAPERED CARCASS SAW, $175
Longest saw; thin kerf; fast ripping and crosscutting.
DELUXE 240MM
RIP DOZUKI SAW,
$100
Best saw for
dovetailing;
performed
superbly.
ROB COSMAN PROFESSIONAL LARGE TENON SAW,
$300–$350, DEPENDING ON HANDLE
Very easy to start; cut smoothly; molded resin
handle available in two sizes.
VERITAS CROSSCUT CARCASS SAW, $90
Ripped fast and tracked well during ripcuts; crosscuts quick too;
started smoothly; very good saw and fantastic value.
70
JAPANESE-STYLE SAWS
A fair number of woodworkers prefer Japanese-style
handsaws, which cut on the pull stroke. They start much
easier than push saws, cut faster, and very seldom bind.
And they are much less expensive than Western saws.
While most can’t be resharpened, when their hardened,
razor-sharp teeth finally dull after years of use, it won’t cost
you much to replace them—just the blade, or the whole
saw. Charles Durfee recommends that if you only want
to cut dovetails, then buy a ripsaw. For both ripping and
crosscutting, the Dozuki “Z” crosscut saw is the best buy.
BAD AXE
STILETTO,
$250-$350,
DEPENDING ON
OPTIONS
Cuts with ease,
accuracy, and
speed; amazing
overall.
LIE-NIELSEN,
$150
Performed
beautifully on
multiple tasks,
starting a
cut, traveling
smoothly, and
tracking a line;
well balanced.
SKELTON, $320
Excelled at every
task in both oak
and cherry, from
beginning the kerf
to tracking a line
quickly; company
offers custom
handle sizes.
WESTERN-STYLE DOVETAIL SAWS
VERITAS
STANDARD, $79
When Gochnour tested these Western-style dovetail specialists, he invited seven skilled friends to help him
narrow a wide field of saws to those that work well for all sorts of people. They are available at prices for
every budget. While precise dovetail cuts were a great test for these tools, all four of his favorites will do a
lot more than dovetails, from trimming parts to length to cutting quick, accurate miters.
Best value; cut
extremely smoothly;
quite maneuverable;
composite spine
saves weight.
COPING SAWS
As Gochnour said, “Coping saws can be used
to remove waste in joinery, make cope cuts
on molding, and saw tight curves of all kinds.
Motorized bandsaws and scrollsaws perform
similar tasks, but require the workpiece to be
brought to the tool, a task that can be difficult,
awkward, or even impossible…This makes
the coping saw an indispensable tool in the
woodshop.”
LEE VALLEY, $17
KNEW CONCEPTS, $160
Stood well above the rest; light and rigid
frame; easiest blade changes; eight positive
detents for blade rotation; convenient
knurled knob for adjusting blade tension.
GOOD
VALUE
Smooth and easy blade rotation;
very good blade tension; cuts very
well; very good saw overall.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
71
Bench
chisels
This general-purpose
tool is suitable for a
broad range of tasks,
including dovetailing
and mortise-andtenoning, paring pegs
flush, installing hinges,
chamfering edges,
and even cleaning up
glue squeeze-out. They
can be driven with a
mallet, or used twohanded for controlled
paring cuts, and work
equally well with hard
or soft wood. Popular
sizes start at 1⁄4 in., so
that’s where our prices
start too.
GOOD
VALUE
LIE-NIELSEN
BEVEL-EDGE CHISELS,
FROM $55
Almost flawless out of
the box; back was lapped
flat and nearly polished;
beveled edges tapered
precisely; tool’s size and
feel make it the ideal
bench chisel; A2 blade’s
durability was middle
of the pack, but the
ergonomics prevailed.
STANLEY SWEETHEART SOCKET
CHISELS, FROM $33
GOOD
VALUE
NAREX CLASSIC
BEVEL-EDGE CHISELS,
FROM $14
Easy to grasp whether
chopping with one hand
or paring with two; back
of chrome manganese
blade was flat and edges
beveled sufficiently for
dovetailing; cutting edge
held up quite well.
GRIZZLY JAPANESE
CHISELS, FROM $20
MATSUMURA BLUE
STEEL BENCH CHISEL,
FROM $73
Blue-steel chisel is
finely crafted and set
to go out of the box;
end of handle creates
a comfortable pad for
your hand; blade held an
edge with the best, and
is slightly longer than
other Japanese blades;
moderately priced for
such a high-quality
chisel.
Diamond in the rough;
back was slightly
concave along length,
but lapped out without
much trouble; end
of handle must be
mushroomed over to
set hook—plan on 30
minutes for this task;
performed admirably
and edge held up nicely;
a real bargain.
Precisely machined with clean beveled
edges; some backs needed extra work
to flatten and you’ll need to lightly
hammer handles into sockets; short
length gives nimble, fingertip control;
edge retention is very good; well-made,
great form, great value.
VERITAS BENCH CHISELS, FROM $72
Flawless out of the box; blades stout with bevels
that extend all the way to tip; backs lapped dead
flat; handles comfy to grasp and won’t roll off bench;
very solid feel under mallet blows; edge easy to
sharpen and held up well; on par with the best.
72
Sharpening
For a hand tool to perform well, it has to be sharp. A set of
waterstones and a honing guide make it fast and simple to
get razor sharp and back to work.
WATERSTONES
As Gochnour said in his test, “there’s no doubt in my mind that
waterstones are the best choice for honing chisels and handplane
blades. They produce a fine polish quickly, and are more durable
and less expensive (in the long run) than sandpaper.” Prices are
based on the 800- or 1,000-grit stone, and go up for finer grits.
OHISHI, FROM $55
Stones cut very fast; very hard so they
remain flat for a long time, and don’t
need to be soaked in water.
NANIWA PROFESSIONAL (WAS
CHOSERA), FROM $74
SHAPTON GLASSSTONE, FROM $54
Smoothest cutting action; create nice
slurry with use; easiest to flatten.
Performed great; didn’t cut quite
as quickly as other winners but
dished the least; very hard—blades
occasionally chattered across surface.
HONING GUIDES
We finish with yet another tool test from Gochnour.
“While some may prefer to sharpen freehand, I’m a big
proponent of honing guides, and I recommend one for
anyone looking to get sharp edges,” Gochnour said. There
are excellent honing guides for all budgets.
VERITAS MK. II DELUXE, $125
Did an excellent job sharpening
every type of blade; comfortable
to use and easy to set up;
clamping blades square takes
some care.
GENERIC SIDE-CLAMPING GUIDE, $15
LIE-NIELSEN, $125
PLUS $25–$35 FOR ACCESSORY JAWS
Machined to tight tolerances; held blades tight
and square; easy to use; narrow chisels pose
problems with squareness; accessory jaws for
narrow and skewed blades.
GOOD
VALUE
Comfortable to hold, easy to set up, and
performed basic tasks well; nice job honing
straight and cambered plane irons, and also
spokeshave blade; struggles to hold chisels
level—be mindful where you apply pressure
in use.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
73
HAN D TOOL S
▶
C ON C R E T E
Must-Have
Concrete Tools
A longtime builder’s laborsaving tools mean better
concrete too
B Y
K
A N D Y
E N G E L
nowing the tools needed to place and finish a concrete
slab is a road map to doing good concrete work. Most of
the hand tools are relatively inexpensive, and most of the
more expensive ones can be rented. Concrete is pretty safe stuff
most of the time, though it can cause chemical burns, particularly
with extended contact. Long pants, long-sleeved shirts, rubber
overboots, and gloves are called for when working the wet slab.
Safety glasses aren’t a bad idea either. When saw-cutting, be sure
an electrical saw is plugged into a GFCI outlet and wear safety
glasses, hearing protection, and at least an N95 dust mask or respirator because of the silica dust.
It takes surprisingly little water for concrete to complete the
chemical reactions that make it hard—so little it would be unworkable without some additional water. To be workable, concrete
must be wet enough to flow tight to the forms and for air bubbles
to escape. The wetter concrete is, the easier it is to settle into
the forms—but the weaker it will ultimately be. That’s because
74
concrete’s strength is related to its density. From a chemical standpoint, any water that isn’t necessary for the reaction just takes up
space. When that water eventually evaporates (which can take
weeks), it leaves tiny voids that reduce the density and strength
of the concrete. Also, if it’s too wet, the water on top of a slab
won’t evaporate fast enough to allow tooling before the underlying
concrete is too hard to work. Adding plasticizer to the mix costs
a little more money, but it temporarily lowers the slump of the
concrete without affecting its ultimate strength.
Whether your tools are rented or bought, wash the concrete off
before it sets. The higher the water pressure, the easier it is to clean
concrete tools. The pressure in the hose on board every concrete
truck is Niagara-like. Ask the driver if you can use that water to
wash off your tools before the truck leaves.
Andy Engel was a former editor at Fine Homebuilding and a builder
in Roxbury, Conn.
Photos: this page, Carol Collins; facing page top and middle, Rodney Diaz; bottom, John Ross
SET UP REINFORCEMENT
The first phase of concrete work involves no concrete. Assuming the
ground is properly compacted and the gravel below the future slab is level,
reinforcement is the first step. Most concrete footings and foundations have
some rebar in them, and slabs frequently have rebar or reinforcing wire.
Concrete is very strong in compression, but will crack when placed in tension.
Steel rebar adds tensile strength to concrete. Wire mesh keeps the surface of
the slab in plane should cracks develop.
BOLT CUTTERS
TIE TWISTER
Simple tools, bolt cutters’ main
purpose in concrete work is to cut
welded wire mesh to size. An 18-in.
cutter is perfect for this task. You can
also use a grinder with an abrasive
wheel or a circular saw with a carbide
or abrasive blade made for metalcutting, but the bolt cutters are just
as fast and don’t require power or
batteries. Be sure to wear a face shield
when working with cutoff wheels, which
sometimes shatter, throwing partial
discs of carborundum and fiberglass at
high velocity.
On small jobs,
rebar can be
wired together
with pliers and
14-ga. steel wire.
(The standard lap required when joining
bars lengthwise is 40 bar diameters—i.e.,
#4 bar, which measures 1⁄2 in., must overlap
at least 20 in.). If you only have a couple
of pieces, this is no big deal. For bigger
projects, use a tie twister with special rebar
wires, which speeds up the tying process
dramatically.
REBAR BENDER/CUTTER
Rebar is hard steel—cutting it isn’t something you do with
bolt cutters. It is also as hard to bend as it is to cut. For
cutting on small jobs, you can get away with an angle grinder.
For bending in a pinch, I’ve stuck the end of a piece of rebar
in the trailer-ball hole of an F-250’s bumper and used that
as a fulcrum. The results were serviceable but not great, and
mostly limited to #4 bar. A rebar bender/cutter makes for
much neater, more easily controlled bends, and cuts rebar
much faster than a grinder.
ROTARY HAMMER
It’s common to abut new concrete to
existing—for example, when building an
addition to a house. The plans should
specify a doweled connection, which simply
means you drill into the existing concrete so
lengths of rebar can be inserted into place.
Some circumstances call for the dowel to
be epoxied into place, while others require
some movement and the engineer will call
for the rebar to be greased so the concrete
doesn’t adhere. In any case, the tool to use
for drilling the holes is a rotary hammer. Most
contractors already own one, but you can rent
them too.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
75
P E R F E C T M E T H O D S O F P L AC E M E N T
Concrete is heavy. A standard 10-cu.-yd. truckload weighs 40,000 lb. and
is enough for 750 sq. ft. of 4-in.-thick slab, accounting for spillage and
assorted variances. You’ll want to move as little concrete by hand as
possible while also moving fast. Concrete begins setting up the instant the
first water is added, and ready-mix companies only give limited time to
unload the truck once on-site.
FRONT-DISCHARGE TRUCK
Obviously, the simplest method of placement is to get the ready-mix
truck close enough to the hole so that the truck’s own chute can place
the concrete. I had an epiphany about this process when I moved from
New Jersey to Connecticut 25 years ago. In Jersey, all the trucks had rearwheel drive and rear discharge. They could get pretty close, but because
the driver had no direct line of sight, he could only help you out so much.
And because of the rear-wheel-drive configuration, firing up the backhoe
to drag a concrete truck out of the mud was a regular event. Connecticut
introduced me to front-discharge, all-wheel-drive concrete trucks. I
have yet to see one stuck in the mud. And because the driver can see
and control the chute from inside the cab, the concrete mostly ends up
exactly where you want it. If you can’t get close enough with the truck’s
standard chutes, ready-mix suppliers can often send additional chutes for
a reasonable upcharge. Longer chutes are at a more shallow angle, so you
may have to pull the concrete.
CONCRETE PUMP
STEEL
WHEELBARROW
POWERED
WHEELBARROW
Wheelbarrows are an
obvious and cheap vessel
for moving concrete (or
mixing it by hand). Don’t
buy a plastic wheelbarrow.
They are lighter but flex
when loaded, making them
very difficult to maneuver
around a site. A high-quality
steel wheelbarrow is rigid
and far easier to push when
full of wet concrete. Your
concrete wheelbarrow should
also have solid tires—few
things make me lose my
temper, but a flat tire on a
wheelbarrow full of concrete
is one of them.
Concrete buggies (or “mud
buggies”) are big, motorized
wheelbarrows. They’re a great way
to move concrete from the street
to the backyard. If you have more
than a couple of yards that need
wheeling, consider renting a buggy.
76
An even easier way to move concrete long distances is with a
pump. Concrete pumps are specialized trucks or truck-pulled
trailers. Concrete from the mixer flows into a hopper on the
pump truck, and that truck pumps it to where the concrete is
needed. There are two main types of pump truck. Line or grout
pumps push the slurry
through a 4-in. hose that
gets manhandled around
the site. Boom trucks
have hydraulic-controlled
booms so the truck driver
can move the concrete
hose and outlet to where
you need it. Unless you’re
experienced, it’s a good
idea to hire a crew with a
boom truck. Some have
mechanical arms with a 100-ft. reach. Neither is cheap, but for
large projects where you need to move a lot of concrete quickly or
for sites with difficult access, they’re the way to go.
PORTABLE MIXER
Hand-mixing in a wheelbarrow is often fine for small concrete
jobs, but a portable mixer is faster and will save your back on
bigger projects. Portable mixers are also ideal for larger jobs
where there is no ready-mix plant or site access is impossible for
a concrete truck. Sizes range from small models found at home
centers for a few hundred dollars to large tow-behind machines
that can mix nearly 1⁄2 yd. of concrete at a time and sell for
thousands. A good rental yard will have at least two sizes.
Photos: truck, Brian McAward; steel wheelbarrow, courtesy of Jackson Professional Tools; powered wheelbarrow, courtesy of Toro; concrete pump, Brian McAward; portable mixer, courtesy of Marshalltown
What slump?
VIBRATORY SCREED
I will never do another big slab without renting one of these—
ever. Screeding a big slab by sawing back and forth with a 2x4
or metal screed works, but it’s exhausting. Vibratory screeds
work by attaching a gasoline-motor-powered vibrator to either
its own integral metal screed or to a 2x4. The tool’s vibration
settles the concrete while replacing the
hard physical labor of screeding. Renting
one of these for your next slab is the best
tip in this article, hands down.
VIBRATOR
One tool that’s useful with both walls and
slabs is the concrete vibrator. A slender metal
mechanism powered by a flexible shaft that
ties to either an electric or gas motor, concrete
vibrators help settle wet concrete into its
forms. Every rental yard in existence will have a
concrete vibrator. The key is to vibrate sparingly.
Concrete is a mix of Portland cement, water,
and large (gravel) and small (sand) aggregate.
The sand fills the spaces between the gravel,
and a slurry of Portland and water fills the
space between both. Vibration helps
concrete to flow and fill all the voids
around the rebar and forms.
With slabs,
vibration helps
settle the coarse
aggregate and
makes finishing
easier.
Using one takes
a delicate touch—
excessive vibration can separate the large
and small aggregate too much, weakening the
concrete. For that reason, don’t hit the rebar or
the sides of the forms with the vibrator any more
than you can help. If appearance is a concern,
you can tap the forms with a hammer or take
the blade out of your recip saw and run it up and
down the form a little bit. Don’t get carried away,
though, because vibration liquefies concrete and
the added hydraulic pressure can blow out the
forms.
COMEALONG
The simplest,
most useful
tool you aren’t
using is the
come-along, also
called a placer.
Essentially a
solid rake, the
come-along is
the perfect tool
for pulling and rough-leveling concrete for
a slab. Do not use a steel landscape rake
to move concrete—this will segregate the
aggregate, seriously reducing the strength
of the concrete. There is a hook on top of
a come-along to pull up reinforcing wire
when needed.
CONCRETE TAMPER
Composed of wire mesh in a frame with a pair
of handles, a concrete tamper pushes the coarse
aggregate down into the surface of a slab to
make finishing easier. However, it can settle the
aggregate too deeply, increasing the likelihood of
freeze-thaw cycles scaling
the top of exterior slabs in
cold climates. Therefore,
tampers should be used
judiciously and only
on slabs not subject to
freezing. Their use should
be limited to very stiff
(low-slump) concrete or
concrete with unusually
large aggregate.
Photos: vibratory screed, Carol Collins; vibrator, courtesy of Makita;
come-along, Brian McAward; concrete tamper, courtesy of Marshalltown; slump, Jake Lewandowski
Slump is determined by
filling a special cone with
a sample of fully mixed
concrete, removing the
cone, and measuring how
much the wet material
sinks (or “slumps”). A
4-in. slump is the standard
for structural purposes,
but without special tools
4 in. is unworkable. Most
residential concrete is
placed at a 5-in. or 6-in.
slump. It’s a balancing
act, and the tools you use
to settle concrete into its
place and to level slabs
are crucial. For concrete
work such as footings, a
shovel and a piece of rebar
are most of the tools you’ll
need. All that
you have to
do is move
the concrete
through the
forms, jab the
shovel (or in
tight places,
the rebar) in
a few times,
and bang on
the side of the
forms with a
hammer to
burp out big
air bubbles. A
mag float does
a fine job of tooling the top
of the concrete level with
the forms.
Slabs and walls are a
different story. There,
the fit and finish of the
concrete becomes much
more important. Most
builders, myself included,
hire out foundation walls.
The forms are heavy and
expensive, the work takes
experience, and mistakes
are costly.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
77
FINISHING BRINGS IT HOME
Finishing is when the magic happens and where concrete skills really
shine. It’s also the most nerve-wracking time because the window
when concrete is workable shrinks rapidly. Concrete finishing is done
in a specific sequence, and each of these tools is appropriate only at
certain times during the process. Using them incorrectly can affect
the finish and durability of a slab.
BULL FLOAT
Screeding leaves a coarse surface that needs smoothing to be useful.
A bull float is used immediately after screeding to remove ridges
and fill hollows while slightly depressing the coarse aggregate. The
aluminum blade of the bull float doesn’t seal the surface of the
concrete the way steel does, which is one difference between a bull
float and a steel trowel. At this stage, it’s important not to seal the
concrete to facilitate evaporation of the excess water.
Bull floats are typically about 8 in. by 48 in. They have sectional
handles that assemble to as long as 18 ft., allowing the user to stand
outside the concrete while floating. The handle joins the float with
a universal joint, so you can twist the handle to change the float’s
angle of attack: Lowering the handle raises the front edge of the float
slightly, making it easier to push the float away from you; raising the
handle does the opposite.
KNEEBOARDS
Once the slab begins to set, you need to get on it to trowel it without leaving
deep footprints. Concrete finishers use kneeboards that spread out their weight
like snowshoes for this task. You can buy nice aluminum kneeboards with
integral kneepads—but while these look plush, they aren’t cheap, and I’ve never
seen them used in residential construction. More typical are pieces of 1⁄2-in.
plywood about 8 in. wide and 2 ft. long with strips of wood fastened to the front
edge to make them easier to pick up.
To use kneeboards, you walk out to the center of the hardening slab and then
kneel down on them to float or trowel. Working backward toward the edge of
the slab, you smooth out the marks left by the boards—and, inevitably, the toes
of your boots—as you go.
EDGER AND
GROOVER
MAG FLOAT OR WOOD FLOAT
Mag is short for magnesium, the metal mag floats are
made from. In decades past, wooden floats served the
same purpose. Mag floats smooth the lines from the bull
float, and on small jobs are often used in place of bullfloating. They’re employed as the bleed water evaporates
and the top of the concrete begins to lose its sheen. Mag
floats don’t polish the surface, but rather “bring up the
cream,” meaning they further help to embed the coarse
aggregate below the surface and bring moisture up from
below as that on top evaporates. The point is to create a
surface that’s open to allow bleed water to evaporate, for
further finishing with a steel trowel or concrete broom.
78
Edgers are small steel
trowels that impart a
radius edge to slabs.
This edge is less
prone to chipping and
friendlier in use than
a square one would be. I use edgers at two points during the finishing
process. The first is shortly after bull-floating. At this point, the goals are
to separate the wet concrete from the forms to minimize chipping when
the forms are removed, and to push the coarse aggregate down to allow a
smooth finish to be imparted later. The second time I edge is after steeltroweling or brooming to give the slab a smooth, finished edge.
A groover is like a two-sided edger, used to mold control joints and decorative joints into the slab. It works fine for sidewalks and broom-finished
patios, but I prefer to saw-cut control joints in garage and interior slabs.
Photos: bull float, Brian McAward; kneeboards and mag float, Carol Collins;
edger and groover, John Ross
POWER TROWEL
I’ve never used one, but I
regularly see professional
finishers using a power
trowel. It’s a great option
for large slabs because
its gas engine doesn’t get
tired and it can cover more
ground before the concrete
is too hard to work. The
secret to using this tool is
to get it on the concrete
at the right time. Start too
early and it will sink into
the fresh concrete, making
a mess; wait too long and
you won’t be able to smooth
surface imperfections.
STEEL TROWEL
The final tool used for a smooth slab,
steel trowels are used after all the sheen
from the bleed water is gone, but before
the concrete is too stiff to work. A darby
is a larger version of a steel trowel, with
two handles. The trick is to keep the
leading edge slightly elevated as you
smooth the last remaining ridges and
compact the surface. Pool trowels can
be a useful finishing tool as well. Their
rounded corners are less likely to leave
ridges in the concrete.
Steel trowels should not be used
on air-entrained concrete—these are
finished with a mag trowel. Steel trowels
close off the pores on the surface of the
concrete, trapping in air that should be
allowed to escape. Another common
mistake is to sprinkle water on a slab
that’s setting up too fast. Both of these
things can lead to scaling and other
surface failures. If it’s a hot day and it
seems likely that the concrete will set
faster than you can finish it, have the
batch plant add retarder to the mix to
buy extra time.
CONCRETE BROOM
Sometimes you don’t want the
polished surface steel trowels
create on concrete. Usually
this is because they can be
slippery when wet. In these
cases, a broom finish is called
for. After mag-floating and while
the concrete is still wet, a broom simply is dragged across
the surface of the slab. Any broom can be used, but special
concrete brooms are available with finer or coarser bristles
depending on the finish desired. Brooms are also available
that attach to a bull-float handle, extending the finisher’s
reach so you don’t have to walk on the slab to broom it.
Once the slab is broomed, use an edger to finish the corners.
Power trowels can be
equipped with float, finish,
and combination blades.
Talk to the rental company
about what you’re trying to
do and they can set up the
machine for your project. The
machine’s handle is how you
control the direction of the
power trowel: Lift up on the
handle to move left; push
down to go right.
CONCRETE SAW
The old saying is that there are two kinds of concrete:
Concrete that has cracked, and concrete that hasn’t cracked
yet. Assuming everything else was done correctly, thermal
expansion is the main cause of cracking. It’s essentially
unavoidable.
FRESNO TROWEL
Out West, concrete finishers routinely
use Fresno trowels to finish concrete.
Fresnos are larger than a handheld
steel trowel and they attach to long
handles like a bull float, making them
ideal for large slabs. The downside
is that because they’re larger than a
hand trowel, they don’t compact the
concrete surface as much, so the
surface can end up less durable. Like
smaller steel trowels, Fresnos should
only be used after the concrete has
been floated with a wood or mag float.
The way to avoid cracks looking like defects is to sawcut control joints a day or two after the pour. Saw cuts are
straight and look deliberate, not like mistakes. Saw cuts
should be one-quarter the depth of the slab, and the slab
should be divided into rectangular sections that are as close
to square as possible to even out the amount of movement
between saw cuts. For residential purposes, 10-ft.
squares are about right, although the size isn’t a
hard-and-fast rule.
You can use a circular saw with an abrasive or
diamond blade for small cuts, but even better is a
gasoline-powered concrete saw, which is rentable.
Also described as a cutoff machine or power
cutter, a concrete saw is the preferred tool for
bigger jobs, but only outdoors unless you have a
carbon monoxide death wish.
Photos: steel trowel, Dan Thornton; Fresno trowel, courtesy of Marshalltown; broom, John Ross;
power trowel, Brian McAward; saw top, Carol Collins; saw bottom, courtesy of Stihl
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GAR D EN IN G
New to market
Each year, the experts at Fine Woodworking, Fine
Homebuilding, and Fine Gardening test dozens of new
products and tools. Here is a rundown of some of the
new gardening products we reviewed last year.
Pocket-sized floral shears
Anyone with a cutting garden needs a good pair of pruners.
These 7-in. floral shears are perfect for when you need
something a little smaller and less bulky than Felco pruners.
Their total length is about 1½ in. less than the average
bypass pruner, which means they can be comfortably
stowed in your back pocket. First designed for snipping fruit
stems, these floral shears are now widely used by florists
and cut-flower growers. Since the long, thin blades make it
easy to maneuver within dense plants, they work best for
harvesting flowers with delicate stems. They are also great
for harvesting microgreens and herbs, or anything that has
more-tender stems than the average plant.
— Michele Christiano has worked in public gardens for most
of her career. She lives in southern Pennsylvania.
FLORAL SHEARS
ARS SE45
$30
A cart you can count on
I have used both the midsize and large garden carts
from Carts Vermont for years and have been extremely
impressed by their durability and usefulness. You can pile
these carts high with branches, leaves, bales of hay, tools,
or even your children. The weight capacity is 400 lb. on
the large cart and 300 lb. on the midsize cart. You can
also order them with solid-core tires, which are virtually
indestructible. My large cart (pictured), which sits outside
in all types of weather, has provided me with over 10
years of reliable service.
—Karen Beaty is a forestry specialist for the Wildland
Conservation Division of Austin, Texas.
GARDEN CART
BY CARTS VERMONT
$595 to $675
80
Photos courtesy of the authors and manufacturers
LEAF BLOWER
Stihl BGA 86
$250
Easy-to-use lopper
will spare your back
and arms
From Corona’s new ComfortGEL line of
ergonomic tools, this bypass lopper has grips
designed for more-comfortable cutting that will
reduce pressure on your hands and arms and
provide greater control while you work. This is a
lightweight tool with 25-in.-long trapezoidal steel
handles that are stronger than those of previous
models. The handles are also extendable,
reaching 35 in. long for those hard-to-access
branches. Built-in shock-guard bumpers
decrease the strain of difficult cuts, allowing
you to work longer with less fatigue. The blades
themselves have a nonstick coating to repel tree
sap so that they stay sharper longer.
—Diana Koehm is the assistant editor
of Fine Gardening.
A quiet leaf blower with an
ergonomic design
It’s lightweight, it’s powerful, and—best of all—it’s quiet. Now what
will the neighbors complain about? The BGA 86 leaf blower from Stihl
has 50% more blowing force than the previous model but only weighs
10 lb. with a battery. Its lightweight, ergonomic design will let you
breeze through both wet and dry leaves with ease. It’s also weather
resistant, in case it starts to drizzle while you work. Powered by an AP
300 battery, the BGA 86 is so green that it’s certified as Zero-Emission
Equipment in California. Lefties, don’t worry; the control handle is built
to be used on either side. But best of all, a brushless motor makes this
blower much quieter than traditional leaf blowers and improves its
lifespan.
—Diana Koehm
SICKLE SAW
Nokogama model
by Hardwick & Sons
$9
The most versatile saw
you’re not using
BYPASS LOPPER
Corona Tools
ComfortGEL
What are the benefits of a sickle saw over a
straight-blade saw? Its curved shape means that
more saw teeth are exposed to the cutting material,
allowing for faster and more aggressive cutting
with less effort. Hardwick & Sons’ Japanese
Nokogama sickle saw is sharp enough to slice
through fine grasses yet tough enough to cut
through thick branches. You can also use it to
break up sod. The 7-in.-long carbon-steel blade
is extremely heavy duty and won’t bend or break
when presented with a tough task. If all that
weren’t enough, this may be the most affordable
tool you can buy this year.
—Diana Koehm
$35.50
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GAR D EN IN G
▶
N E W TO M A R KE T
Nejiri Gama hand hoe
I’ve worked with other professional gardeners for more than
25 years, and a tool that continues to be a popular part of
our weeding arsenal is the Nejiri Gama hand hoe. Made
in Japan, this lightweight tool with a hardwood handle
will have a long life in your tool collection. It’s wonderful
for scraping up shallow weeds. The 51⁄2-in. hardened steel
blade skims just under the soil’s surface. The deepest-rooted
weeds require a different tool, but this well-balanced hand
hoe is particularly effective with early weed growth. The
blade, which should be kept sharp, cuts best with a pulling
motion. This hoe is compact, at only 101⁄2 in. long.
— Mark Dwyer, former director of horticulture at Rotary
Botanical Gardens in Janesville, Wis., now operates
Landscape Prescriptions by MD.
HAND HOE
BY NEJIRI GAMA
$20
This knife gets better
with age
The first tool I bought as a novice gardener was a
carbon-steel hori hori, or Japanese digging knife,
just like the one from Hardwick & Sons. Practically
indestructible, mine (pictured) is still poking holes
in my back pockets 30-odd years later. It has proved
sturdy enough to penetrate stony soil and can unearth
taprooted weeds. The serrated edge makes quick
work of dividing plants as well as loosening potbound plants. It cuts through fibrous, tuberous, and
circling roots like butter. Over time, when wiped
clean and dry after use, the carbon steel becomes
polished and silky, and the wood handle develops an
oiled smooth finish from being handled.
—Kristin Green is the author of Plantiful: Start Small,
Grow Big With 150 Plants That Spread, Self-Sow, and
Overwinter. She gardens in Bristol, R.I.
DIGGING KNIFE BY
HARDWICK & SONS
$25
82
Take the guesswork
out of watering
While it may seem like a simple tool, I’ve recommended this Mosser Lee Soil
Master moisture, light, and pH meter more than any other garden tool. The
soil in my property ranges from solid clay to sandy, with several amended
beds. These soil types hold moisture differently and never have the same
watering needs. This tool takes away the guesswork. You simply stick the
metal prongs into the soil and read the meter. It also measures soil pH and
light, the latter of which is great for siting houseplants indoors. This is a
particularly great tool for giving beginning gardeners the confidence they
need to stop worrying and enjoy gardening.
— Kimberly Toscano is a horticulturist based in Stillwater, Okla. She is the
previous host of Oklahoma Gardening, a weekly PBS television program.
MOISTURE METER
Mosser Lee Soil Master
$10
A tough tool belt
that will last forever
I have several tools that I keep with me
while gardening. For the longest time, I was
putting them down in one place and then
looking afterward for where I had left them.
I used a bucket in the past to carry my tools,
but that still required me to go back and
forth from my working area to where my
tools were. Now I use this deluxe garden
tool belt from Gardener’s Kit in Canada. With
four pockets, it is designed with gardeners in
mind. Mine (pictured) carries my pruners, a
saw, a paint pen, plant tags and ties, and my
weeder. It’s adjustable, made of leather, and
extremely heavy duty.
— Susan Calhoun is the owner
of Plantswoman Design
in Bainbridge Island, Wash.
DELUXE GARDEN
TOOL BELT
Gardener’s Kit
$285
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83
GAR D EN IN G
▶
C O RD L E S S TO OL S
ALL ABOUT
Battery
Power 101
Skip the gas can and the
extension cord, these garden
tools have plenty of power
and less upkeep
B Y
84
M I C H A E L
S P R I N G E R
Photos, except where noted: courtesy of the manufacturers
T
he biggest disruption to a garden’s peace and serenity typically is the exhaust-laden cacophony of
power equipment. Happily, today’s new batterypowered outdoor power equipment offers a quieter,
more convenient, more environmentally friendly way
to get the same chores done.
For generations, gasoline has been the standby for
lawn and garden machines. There are corded electric
outdoor tools, but doing yard work tethered to an extension cord has always been an annoying compromise.
So it’s no surprise that there’s a better option in this
age when there is a cordless power tool for practically
any task. We’re in the middle of the “real deal” era for
battery-powered outdoor power equipment, and the list
of capable tools in the category is growing like a weed.
Battery power
is cleaner and greener
Handheld tools powered by battery packs offer
several advantages over those that burn fossil
fuels.
▸ There’s no need to buy, transport, or store
gasoline. If you’re used to two-stroke tools,
you will be happy to say goodbye to the
routine of properly mixing in oil, then trying
to use up the fuel before it goes bad within
several weeks—or buying premixed fuel that
costs about $30 a gallon.
Electric motors are efficient
There are some performance benefits specific to the DC
electric motors used in battery-powered tools. Compared
to gas-powered motors, they can produce high torque
▸ Battery-powered tools offer low- to no-
maintenance operation. They do not require
yearly maintenance or engine tune-ups, and
you won’t need to winterize them at the end
of the gardening season. There’s no idle
screw to fiddle with, and no high and low
carburetor-adjustment screws.
▸ The tools are quieter and often safer. There
is no toxic exhaust to breathe, no screaming
engine noise within arm’s length, and no hot
muffler to burn yourself on. Many of these
tools are quiet enough to be used without
hearing protection.
▸ Battery-powered tools offer point-and-shoot
simplicity. Push the ON button if the tool
has one, then simply pull the trigger to
operate. You won’t have to set a choke, pull
a cord to start the engine, wait out a flooded
carburetor, or restart the engine after every
time you set the tool down.
▸ These tools run only when you pull the trigger,
with no noisy, fuel-wasting idling time. As an
added benefit, most handheld cutting tools
have an active brake that stops the tool
instantly when the trigger is released, so you
don’t have to wait for the tool to coast down.
A tool that is silent between tasks makes
it much easier and safer for the user to
communicate with others.
▸ What are the cons? All you really give up is
Battery power is not a compromise. A batterypowered mower is quieter and more efficient than
its gas-powered counterparts, and filling the “fuel
tank” (above) is much quicker and easier.
Photos, these two pages: Steve Aitken
the all-day run time of a gas engine and the
extra power needed for commercial-sized
tools such as large chainsaws, which still
require high-performance two-stroke engines.
Other than that, battery-powered outdoor
equipment is available with capabilities
suitable for almost any gardening job.
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85
| PURCHASE POWER |
BUYING STRATEGIES
Choosing the right tool or battery platform to fit your needs can
be a big decision. Regardless of which tool you choose, it is
worth buying a spare battery pack to minimize downtime when
you want to be working.
• Look for outdoor tools that work with your existing
battery packs. If your favorite power-tool brand has the
equipment you’re looking for, this is a logical place to start.
This approach may save you some money as you build
your tool collection,
but make sure the
battery packs that
you have are strong
enough to power
the tools you need.
DeWalt, Milwaukee,
and Ryobi all
offer a variety of
outdoor tools, but
the brand with the
widest range of fully
compatible tools is
Makita, with dozens of available models. For 36-volt power,
almost all of Makita’s outdoor tools use two of its standard
18-volt battery packs; a few of its compact tools run on just
one pack.
PRUNING SAW
• Higher voltage is great for big jobs. Some outdoor
equipment brands, often found in big-box home centers,
offer tools in the 36-, 54-, and 72-nominal-voltage classes,
though brands use different “maximum” voltage numbers
for naming purposes. In my experience, the sweet spot
with these tool lines is the 54-volt class. The 72-volt tools
usually come in a kit with a compact battery pack that has
the same capacity as that of the brand’s 36-volt tools, and
they are not necessarily more capable than lower-voltage
tools. I’ve had great results with a few exemplary brands
in this category, including the Echo 58V and Ego 56V lines.
Ego is recognized as the brand to beat when it comes to
battery mowers, and it goes bigger than most with highercapacity battery packs optimized for its full-size mowers
and snowblowers.
• Professional-grade tools are a worthwhile
investment. If you spend a lot of time using outdoor
equipment, consider the top pro brands. Stihl and
Husqvarna produce efficient tools in the capable 36-volt
class, and both offer a wide range of models in different
performance and price tiers. Overall, Stihl shows a greater
breadth and depth of battery-powered tools, including some
unique compact tools that run on 10.8-volt packs. Stihl is
the company that first converted me to outdoor battery
power on the job back in 2011 with its introduction of a
fully legit 36-volt chainsaw that opened my eyes to the
future of outdoor power equipment.
86
LEAF BLOWER
Photos, except where noted: courtesy of the manufacturers; top left: staff
HEDGE TRIMMER
CHAINSAW
STRING TRIMMER
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| TECHNOLOGY TALK |
BATTERY BASICS
There is a lot of confusion about how motor voltage affects power and run time versus the size
and capacity of the battery pack being used. Here’s a simple guide to understanding batteries.
The voltage of any cordless tool is not the overriding
factor that determines power and run time. A tool’s motor
can only draw as much energy as the battery pack can safely
put out, so the performance of this energy source is integral
to the tool’s performance. Unlike fuel in a gas tank, which
can be drained as fast as desired, battery cells have a limit
to their output. Li-ion chemistry offers great storage capacity,
but its heat management is a limiting factor. Drawing too
much current can dangerously overheat battery components,
so cordless tools and battery packs have shut-off features
to protect against overdischarging and overheating. Heat
management is also the reason hot batteries and high-capacity
battery packs take a long time to charge.
Batteries with higher amp-hour ratings have more fuel in the
tank. The unit of measure for comparing batteries of the same
voltage is an amp-hour (Ah). Tool batteries typically are made up of
3.6-volt lithium-ion cells. Ten cells wired together in series make up
a 36-volt assembly known as a stack. If the cells are rated at 2.0
Ah, you would have a 2.0-Ah, 36-volt battery pack. For even more
capacity, another 36-volt stack could be wired parallel to the first
stack, creating a 36-volt battery pack and doubling the Ah rating to
4.0. Three stacks together would triple the Ah rating, and so on.
For optimal storage capacity, a bigger battery is generally better, but
only until its weight starts to take away from the tool’s ergonomics.
That’s why the largest battery packs (up to 30 Ah) are carried on
backpacks, with corded connections to the tools they power.
What’s inside a battery pack?
Today’s “smart” batteries are designed for dependability
and performance. This Ego 56-volt battery powers the lawn
mower on p. 84. Like many modern batteries, its cells are
controlled by software and microprocessors to optimize
performance.
Battery-charge indicator
light changes from green
to red when it is time for
a charge.
Battery circuitry protects
the battery pack from
extreme temperatures
and overcharging.
88
For a battery pack of any voltage to offer more power
or a longer run time, its storage capacity must be
increased. Higher-volume energy output (power) or longerlasting energy output (run time) can be achieved by adding
• more individual battery cells to help share the load;
• larger cells with increased capacity;
• cells of higher energy density with increased capacity; or
• any combination of the above.
More or bigger cells built into a pack are easy enough to
visualize (see illustration below), while energy density is simply
how much electricity an individual battery cell can hold. The
more a cell can store, the higher its density.
at low rpms and can often do the same job with higher efficiency
at moderate motor speeds. There’s no need to rev up to high rpms
to generate power, as you do with gas engines. Since the tools are
electric, they can beep or flash various alerts to the user, while
onboard sensors can shut down a tool if its motor or battery pack
begins to overheat. Some tools even have LED headlights built
in—whether they are necessary or not.
As part of the contemporary array of power tools developed
over the last decade or more, battery-powered outdoor tools
use lithium-ion (Li-ion) chemistry instead of the nickel-cadmium
(NiCad) or nickel–metal hydride (NiMH) formulations of days past.
Li-ion technology represents a huge leap forward and is one of
the main reasons cordless tools have evolved into the bigger and
stronger products available now. These tools are capable of rivaling the performance of many corded electric tools developed for
construction, woodworking, or lawn and garden uses.
Another huge leap forward is the use of brushless motors in
cordless tools. Besides their greater efficiency and power per size,
the computer chip that controls the motor’s operation can be programmed for other advanced control features, such as safely drawing the most current out of a specific-size battery pack. Tools with
brushless motors usually represent the premium tier from a given
brand, but because of the performance level needed for outdoor
work, most brands of battery-powered outdoor equipment feature
all-brushless motors now.
What tools are available?
Stacks of lithum-ion cells
are arranged to efficiently
disperse heat.
Cooling air port
helps to disperse
excess heat.
Most brands start with four basic handheld tools that have the
highest demand by users: string trimmers, hedge trimmers, blowers, and chainsaws. To get to the “big five,” they add a lawn
mower. That’s all most households need, but companies hoping
to attract professional users may offer dozens of models.
Besides chainsaws with different bar lengths and various models
of string trimmers and mowers, additional tools include pole saws,
extended-reach hedge trimmers, edgers, and power brooms. For
“stick” tools such as string trimmers and pole saws, some brands
offer power heads that let you use one motor to power a variety
of attachments. Other commercial-style tools include top-handle
arborist chainsaws, backpack blowers, and even snowblowers
and riding mowers. Because of their much higher power needs,
riding mowers don’t use the battery packs common to the rest of
a manufacturer’s outdoor tool line.
Some companies offer tools with smaller battery packs, such as
one-handed grass shears, compact hedge trimmers, or miniature
pruning chainsaws with a 4-in. bar. And there are now batterypowered, roaming robotic mowers that return to their charging
shelter when they need a fill-up or when programmed to do so.
These tools offer a fascinating glimpse into the future of semiautonomous maintenance robots, but I doubt they could handle
my bumpy yard.
Whether you are new to the world of battery-powered tools or
want to add to your collection, you will surely be impressed with
the capability of tools that are now available.
□
Michael Springer is a craftsman, tool tester, construction industry journalist,
and tree care worker based in Boulder County, Colo.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
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ACC ES S O RI ES
New to market
Each year, the experts at Fine Woodworking, Fine Homebuilding,
and Fine Gardening test dozens of new products and tools. Here is a
rundown of some of the new accessories we reviewed last year.
The stretch arm’s strong. The fence’s main section is
20 in., but its telescoping arm extends it to 36 in. The stops
work equally well with the main and telescoping sections.
Miter gauge has it all
Miter gauges are crucial for precision work, and many have a handful of
important features. But I’d never found the complete package until the
JessEm Mite-R-Excel II. Over the past few weeks, I used the gauge while
building furniture. I’ve made square cuts, a range of miters, and used the
fence and flip stop to cut multiple parts at set lengths. The cuts always
came out precise. This is the best miter gauge I’ve ever used.
The gauge has a quick and easy method for fitting the guide bar
precisely to your tablesaw’s miter slot. The face of the protractor head
can be adjusted square to the table and also square to the guide bar. The
protractor head has stainless-steel knobs and fittings and high-contrast,
easy-to-read white numbers and increments.
Setting the protractor head is a breeze. And its vernier scale lets you
accurately and easily measure to a tenth of a degree. The extruded
aluminum fence, which telescopes, is quality. The measuring scale that
sits atop the fence and telescoping arm is easy to read in both inches and
centimeters. There are also set screws for micro-adjustments.
A unique feature of the JessEm is a patent-pending fence-locating knob
that allows you to reset the fence to the same spot after you’ve had to
shift it. This ensures the accuracy of cuts made using JessEm’s flip stop
and the measuring scale atop the fence. The fence and flip stop can also
accommodate a user-made sacrificial fence.
—Chris Gochnour is a furniture maker in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Fast, reliable
protractor head.
There are nine
positive detents:
one at 90° and
four at common
angles to the left
and right. It can
also rotate freely
and lock wherever
you want along the
protractor.
Sacrifical fences don’t sacrifice function. The fence can
accommodate a user-made sacrificial fence that is secured
using T-nuts and screws.
Adjustable bar snugger screw
Legible scale
Handle doubles as lock
Flip stop
JESSEM MITER
GAUGE
Telescoping arm
with end stop
Model #07150
$300
Easy-to-read
protractor head
90
Indexing pin knob
INFINITY
COPING SLED
Safe, stout coping sled
Models COP-200
and COP-201
$220–260
I’ve made hundreds of cope-and-stick cabinet
doors. The cope cut is tricky, partly because
the cut is cross-grain, but more so because
the ends of the rails are often only 2 in. to
3 in. wide. Things can go wrong when you
Visor
are supporting the rails while passing their
short ends across the router bit, because the
workpiece can tip into the opening in the
fence, ruining the workpiece and bringing your
hands quickly and dangerously toward the bit.
The solution is to hold the rails securely on a
sled with your hands a safe distance away.
Infinity has two new sleds that do just this,
the COP-200 and the COP-201. The first uses
Fixed support
standard toggle clamps, and the second selfadjusting toggle clamps. I tested the 201, which
worked great on my router table. With a 3⁄8-in.-thick
anodized aluminum base plate and 3⁄4-in.-thick red aluminum
support blocks, the unit is well engineered and weighs in at
almost 8 lb. Its heft is key to minimizing chatter. The sled has
two handles, and three steel toggle clamps that hold your
backer block and workpiece firmly against the sled—two
clamps on the fixed support block, and one on the movable
block.
A 3⁄8-in.-thick clear polycarbonate visor is the reference edge
for the sled. It extends beyond the base and rides against the
router-table fence. This means the base itself is never against
the fence or close to the bit. The visor has two sets of mounting
holes, allowing you to set it up for deeper or shallower cuts.
Cope and stick is cut at the router table, but this sled works
well at the tablesaw too, where you can put it to use for other
joinery.
Quick clamping. Three toggle clamps
hold your workpiece and any backer block
efficiently and effectively. In addition, one
fence is movable, allowing you to secure pieces
across their width.
Photos, this page and opposite: Barry NM Dima
Nonslip work
surface
Toggle clamps
Clear visor is
reference edge
Movable support
Low-friction base
The fit and finish of the Infinity COP-201 parts are very clean
and precise, and assembly was a breeze. One issue is the small,
unwanted play in the visor mounting holes, since the edge
of the visor needs to be square to the rear base block. It’s an
easy, one-time fix though, with a squared workpiece in the sled
whenever you move the visor.
Infinity sells a steel miter bar ($20) to use the sled in a miter
slot. Optional setup blocks ($10) help you dial in the bit height
while accounting for the thickness of the sled’s base.
—Tony O’Malley is a professional cabinetmaker in Emmaus, Pa.
Safe to use. The visor rides against the router
table’s fence, and its length means there’s
little chance of the sled and work dangerously
pivoting into any fence opening. The two
handles keep your hands far from the bit.
Tenons too. The coping sled can also be used
for routing tenons, and for molding or shaping
workpieces too small to hold safely by hand.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
91
ACC ES S O RI ES
▶
N E W TO MARKET
Mortise Master lives
up to its name
MORTISE
MASTER
$210
Versatile, affordable, and easy to use, Don Browning’s
Mortise Master makes spot-on mortises accessible to any
woodworker. The jig is at its best making matching mortises
for slip tenons. Layout is as simple as marking centerlines
across the joint—the same way you would for a biscuit.
Setup is easy, too. You start by clamping the jig’s two thick
wood fences onto your workpiece and lining up your pencil
mark with a scribed line. A thin lip along the inner edge
of each fence sits on top of the workpiece and ensures the
fences are level with each other.
The jig comes with a 1-in. bushing that you screw into
your router’s baseplate. Once it’s on your router, you fit the
bushing into the hole in the center of the jig’s ingenious
polycarbonate slide plate, which is the heart of the system.
With your plunge router riding on top of it, the plate slides
back and forth on the jig, guided by little UHMW plastic
blocks that attach to the slide plate in various positions and
glide along metal T-tracks, making the mortising action
smooth and precise. Those same tracks guide the two
polycarbonate fences that act as stops, limiting the travel of
the slide plate (and therefore the length of the mortise). The
recommended upspiral carbide bit (supplied by you) should
correspond to the width of the mortise. To rout a mortise,
you set the depth on your router, fit the bushing into its
hole in the slide plate, and hit the on-switch.
My big plunge router was very steady and easy to control
on the thick fences and broad slide plate, and the upspiral
bit ejected dust so well that I could rout an entire mortise
without reaching for a vacuum hose to clear chips.
Once your workpieces are marked and the jig is set up,
switching to a new workpiece and routing another mortise
takes a few minutes at most. The jig can accommodate
workpieces up to 31⁄2 in. thick, and rout mortises in a range
of sizes.
—Asa Christiana is a woodworker in Portland, Ore.
92
Setup is simple.
The router rides
on a round
polycarbonate
slide plate, and two
adjustable fences
limit its travel.
With the slide
plate centered, you
set the stops by
inserting two small
shopmade spacers.
Fast and
foolproof. The
bushing fits in the
jig’s slide plate with
zero slop. UHMW
plastic blocks
attach to the plate
for various mortise
locations. The
blocks slide nicely
in the jig’s T-tracks
for excellent
control.
Excellent results.
Make a slip tenon
to fit, and create
strong joints in
projects of all
kinds.
Photos: Asa Christiana
Prescription safety glasses
You know what a shop atmosphere is like, with sawdust, chips,
finishing chemicals, and maybe some steel wool shavings—not
eye friendly. Protection is necessary, but because of my nearsightedness, I always muddled through with cumbersome overthe-glasses eye protection. Now, though, I wear safety glasses
with prescription lenses from Zenni Optical, an online retailer
of prescription eyeglasses and sunglasses. These glasses meet
the safety standards set by OSHA and the American National
Standards Institute.
Zenni does not do your eye exam, so you
must already have your prescription.
The website is simple to navigate,
and customer service is easy to
reach, knowledgeable, and helpful.
My glasses arrived in about two
weeks. As is to be expected, the
price will vary depending on your
prescription. My prescription cost $70
on top of the base glasses.
There are a lot of different styles
to choose from, and you have options
for anti-glare and anti-scratch coatings. The
particular frame I chose (749618) comes in a few different
colors, including black, clear, red, and yellow. The glasses
are lightweight and comfortable for long periods in the shop.
The weight will vary, though, based on your prescription. The
rubber coating on the arms ensures that they stay put, and the
frames wrap around to the sides, which provides protection for
the entire eye.
—Anissa Kapsales is a senior editor at Fine Woodworking.
ZENNI
PRESCRIPTION
SAFETY GLASSES
$30–$40 before
prescription
Quality splinter remover
Splinters and slivers are an
occupational hazard in the
shop—particularly if you’re
working with roughsawn
lumber. If not removed, or
if only partially removed,
those tiny pieces of wood
can be a huge pain (and
lead to infections).
Recently, I purchased
a splinter removal
kit from Gramercy
(Toolsforworkingwood.com).
The kit contains professional
medical-grade tools for this
very job: a beautiful set of
tweezers—or, forceps, as the
professionals call them—and
a sturdy, sharp, steel probe
that stores in its own handle.
These two small additions
SPLINTER REMOVAL KIT
BY GRAMERCY
$22
Photos: Miles Molitoris (top); Barry NM Dima (bottom)
have been a major upgrade
to my tool kit. The forceps
have small, pointy tips and
are grooved for extra grip.
Unlike a needle, which can
bend, the probe is rigid as
well as sharp, making those
particularly hard to remove
splinters more accessible.
These tools definitely make
extraction easier. But you
should still follow my
mom’s advice: soak your
hand in warm water for
10 to 15 minutes before
going in with the tools. I’m
not sure why it works, but
trust me, sometimes mother
knows best.
—Adam Godet is a woodworker in Washington, D.C.
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93
ACC ES S O RI ES
▶
C LA M P S
Essential Clamps
for Woodworking
The gear you need to tackle any glue-up in the shop
B Y
A S A
C H R I S T I A N A
T
here’s a dizzying array of clamps
in the marketplace, each promising to earn its place in your shop.
But experienced woodworkers and cabinetmakers rely on just a handful of types.
That’s good news for buyers because good
clamps aren’t cheap.
The way to identify the most helpful
clamps is to consider the most common
clamping tasks. I’ll do that here as I assemble an essential collection for most
woodworkers.
I’ll also highlight specific brands and
models in each category—based on past
tests and articles in Fine Woodworking, as
well as user ratings and my own experience—and suggest how many of each type
and size I think most hobbyists will need.
There’s at least one type of clamp that
pros love but hobbyists probably don’t
need—the heavy, powerful I-beam. While
these are great for cranking out solid-wood
panel glue-ups, day after day, the rest of
us can team up pipe and bar clamps to
get the job done, without a back-breaking
pile of I-beam clamps to handle and store.
Here are the essential categories, with
specific recommendations in each. It’s a
great collection to assemble over time.
If you’re toward the beginning of your
woodworking journey, start with four to
eight standard F-style bar clamps and four
sets of pipe clamps. Those take care of
almost every clamping task for now, and
you can add specialists as you need them.
Asa Christiana is a woodworker and freelance
editor and writer in Portland, Ore.
94
Action photos: staff; product photos: courtesy of the manufacturers
F-style bar clamps are
the workshop workhorse
Most clamping jobs are relatively small. These include
clamping things to your workbench, clamping stop blocks
onto fences or sleds, attaching fences and fixtures to
machines, and a wide variety of small project and jig
assemblies, held together with glue, screws, or both.
For the vast majority of those jobs, a 12-in. to 24-in. F-style
bar clamp is the perfect tool. Among the more affordable
clamps, these offer excellent power and control.
Even if you use clamping cauls to spread out the pressure,
you’ll need lots of F-type clamps on some jobs. Those include
laminating parts together, face to face, and bending parts
over forms. Then there are those small glue-ups that happen
in bunches, meaning the more clamps you own, the more
assemblies you can knock out without waiting.
The standard type of F-clamp, with screw adjustment, offers
the best value, but you’ll also want a quick-action type.
STANDARD F-STYLE CLAMPS
These are the clamps woodworkers reach for most. Avoid light-duty
models, as their bars will bend under pressure, tilting their fixed
heads, but don’t throw away the F-style clamps you already own. If
you are buying new, look for models with large, rubberized handles, a
great upgrade that lets you apply 600-plus lb. of force without hurting
your hands. Both Bessey and Jorgensen make great medium-duty
F-style clamps, both highly rated and reviewed online. I’m giving
the edge to Jorgensen on price. These have stiff bars, ergonomic
handles, smooth-turning screws, and clutch plates that won’t slip
on the bar. If you’re a pro, go for the heavy-duty models of these
clamps. Everyone else will be fine with medium-duty. Click around
for deals on sets of four.
Start with: At least two at 8 or 12 in. and two at 24 in.
Est. price for set: $60
FAST-ACTION F-CLAMPS
Supplement your standard F-style clamps with a few of these cam-action
models. They’re a bit pricier than their basic cousins, but they make up for
it with fast action. The adjustable jaw slides quickly on the bar, and then
tightens or loosens in less than a second with a satisfying ratcheting action,
making this the clamp I reach for most often in my shop. I’m happy with my
Bessey KliKlamp models, but they are edged out on price and performance
by the Jorgensen Gear Clamp. Users report that the “Gear Clamp” doesn’t
tend to shift workpieces as much as some of its competitors do, and its
robust components are capable of a hefty 340 lb. of pressure, according
to Tom Begnal, who reviewed these for Fine Woodworking. Grab four of
these to supplement the standard F-clamps.
Start with: two at 4 in. and two at 12 in.
Est. price for set: $75
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95
Long-reach
clamps for large
assemblies
A lot of panel, furniture, and cabinet glueups are too big for F-style clamps. Panel
glue-ups also need more pressure than
small bar clamps can provide. This is
where a variety of longer, stronger clamps
are indispensable.
The best buy here is the humble, hardworking pipe clamp, but there are two
strong bar clamps that are also extremely
helpful. The first is the parallel-jaw clamp,
which features large pads and square
clamping action. The other is the light,
strong aluminum bar clamp.
Just as you can with F-style clamps, you
can team up these types on the same job,
meaning you won’t need as many of each.
PIPE CLAMPS
These simple yet effective fixtures fit onto standard
steel plumbing pipe to create clamps of almost
any length. The pipe has threaded ends, and the
fixed part of the clamp fixture goes on one of them.
The other end slides onto the pipe in any position,
locking itself in place with small clutch plates, just
like those on F-type clamps.
There are clamp fixtures made to fit both 1⁄2-in.
and 3⁄4-in.-dia. pipe, but stick with the larger
pipe, which will flex much less under pressure. I
recommend buying the pipe in 4-ft. lengths, and
using threaded couplers to double its length to 8 ft.
when needed.
These fixtures, and the pipe they fit on, are
relatively cheap considering how strong and long
they can be, so buy at least four, with some extra
lengths of pipe so you can expand your reach when
necessary. The latest and greatest pipe clamps
have taller, wider feet, so the clamps don’t topple
over on your workbench or work table, and the
clamp handle spins freely. There are a number of
models like this, but the most highly rated and
best reviewed is Rockler’s Sure-Foot Plus.
Start with: Four clamp sets
Est. price for set: $80
96
ALUMINUM BAR CLAMPS
Often overlooked among the slew of new entries to the clamping market,
aluminum bar clamps are a tried-and-true winner. Their box-shaped
bars are surprisingly rigid, with notches that prevent the adjustable jaw
from slipping. While pipe clamps and parallel jaws tend to weigh down
assemblies, with the potential to pull them out of square, aluminum bar
clamps pull just as hard while adding a fraction of the weight. Handling
and storage are easier too. We recommend Dubuque Clamp Works
Universal Bar Clamps. The only aluminum bar clamps still made in the
United States, these strong, stiff, smooth-operating clamps are as close
to perfect as it gets, beating out “new and improved” versions year
after year. Robust construction, acme threads, and large wing knobs
make them stand out from the crowd.
Start with: two at 48 in. long and two at 60 in. long
Est. price for set: $175
PARALLEL-JAW
CLAMPS
This relative newcomer to the clamping
world made a big splash two decades ago,
with large flat jaws and perfectly parallel
clamping action that allow these unique
models to do the job of two or more other
clamps, keeping assemblies square in the
process.
Early problems included smallish wood
handles that made it difficult to apply
enough pressure, herky-jerky sliding action
on the toothed bars, and somewhat fragile
plastic jaws. Those issues have all been
addressed in the best new models, leaving
you with nothing but the benefits of these
unique clamps.
All that said, these are the priciest
clamps on the market, so go with just
four to start. Our pick is the Bessey
K-Body REVOlution. Earning top marks
in user ratings and editorial reviews,
these newer Besseys have large, rubber
handles that are not only ergonomic but
also let you insert a 6mm hex wrench
in the end, for additional torque. Sliding
spacers on the bars keep workpieces
parallel, and leave room for glue
squeeze-out, so it doesn’t inhibit future
sliding action. A sliding end clip keeps
the clamp level on the bench
Start with: two at 24 in. long
and two at 40 to 50 in. long
Est. price for set: $200
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
97
Essential oddballs
Standard bar and pipe clamps are workhorses
for woodworking assemblies, but there are a few
other indispensable types, for assembly, tool
setups, and the wide range of other clamping
tasks that crop up. You won’t need more than two
of most of these. Buy them as you need them and
you won’t be sorry.
CARPENTER’S HAND SCREWS
Made and used for centuries, modern versions of this
classic woodworking clamp are indispensable. I reach for
these most often for their deep throats and long reach, but
I also love how the large maple jaws can be angled to apply
pinpoint pressure, or uniform force over a big area, without
marring what they are holding. With an endless variety of
uses, they are a must in any woodshop. Their square jaws
can be clamped to a bench or table and used as a lowprofile vise, they can be used on their own as a work stop,
and their wood jaws can be cut and grooved to hold round
objects. We like the clamps from Dubuque Clamp Works.
Their oiled maple jaws and smooth operation set them
apart. There are larger and smaller sizes, but I think the
10-in. version (with a 5-in.-deep throat) offers the best
combination of capacity, cost, and compactness.
Start with: two at 10 in. long
Price for pair: $58
TRIGGER CLAMPS
Sold as the ultimate clamp, these lack the power and
control needed for woodworking glue-ups, which is why
I moved them to the oddball pile. But their unique onehanded operation is great when you need the other
hand to hold something in place. I use these mostly
for clamping things onto my bench, and setting the
occasional stop block. We recommend Jorgensen EZ
Hold, medium-duty clamps. Although these are a bit
pricier than the competition, their deep reach, stiff
jaws, large handles, and smooth adjustments set
these clamps apart from the competition.
Start with: two, 6 in. long
Price for pair: $30
98
DOVETAIL-SHAPED F-CLAMPS
This is another variation on the F-style bar clamp that I find indispensable for a few
specific tasks. The fixed metal end fits into a dovetail-shaped slot that you rout into
a fence or template, for example. Because the tip of the clamp is buried in the wood,
it won’t get in the way like other clamp jaws do. I use mine most for attaching an
auxiliary fence to my tablesaw rip fence and attaching templates for table routing,
but they work great on a variety of jigs and fixtures. I like the MicroJig MatchFit
Dovetail Clamps. Once you have a pair of these specialized holddowns, you’ll find yourself routing dovetail slots in all sorts
of jigs, templates, and fences. They are strong, smooth
operators, compatible with any 1⁄2-in., 14°
dovetail bit.
Start with: two, one size
Price for set: $45
BAND CLAMPS
A “band” (or “strap”) clamp is a miter specialist,
able to draw together four sides of a box or frame
while aligning their joints perfectly at the same
time. There are lots of other products sold for
clamping miters, but I still reach for a band clamp
every time. The Bessey Variable-Angle 2K is a
good choice.
Start with: 1
Price: $20
C-CLAMPS
Although the old-timey C-clamp might be boring
at this point, no other clamp offers as much
power in such a compact size, at such a low
price. These are especially good for clamping
fences and stop blocks in place without getting
in the way. I don’t have a brand and model
recommendation here because those don’t
really matter with C-clamps, as long as the
body seems sturdy and the screw turns
smoothly. Harbor Freight is a good source.
Buy a few in a couple different sizes, clamp
them onto the edge of a shelf, and grab ’em
when you need ’em.
Start with: two 1-in. and two 2-in. clamps
Price for set: $10
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99
AC C E S S O RI ES
▶
WAL L ANCH ORS
Anchor Your Work
to the Wall
Choosing the right fasteners
for drywall, plaster, and masonry
B Y
M A R I O
R O D R I G U E Z
Y
ou’ve finished building your cabinet, mirror, picture
frame, or shelf. Now you just need to hang it. If you can
hit studs with every screw, you’re in good shape. But if
not, you’ll need wall anchors, those little devices you set into the
wall to receive screws or bolts. There’s a plethora of anchors out
there. Which type is best in your case? That will depend on the
size and weight of the piece you’re hanging and the composition
of the wall you’re hanging it on. I’ve gathered a wide range of
anchors, and I’ll describe how they work, what situations and
wall types they’re suited for, and how to install them.
One note before you get to the point of selecting anchors: Be
sure to build in some means to easily install or hang your piece.
For a cabinet that will carry a lot of weight or see heavy use,
you might consider using a thicker back panel, or you could
incorporate an inset top rail to keep the piece square and to better support your fasteners. Using a French cleat (see the photo
on this page) adds some time to your build but provides solid
attachment, makes the cabinet easily removable, and keeps you
from having to drive screws through the cabinet from inside. If
you’re hanging a stock cabinet (obtained from a box store or
cabinet wholesaler), inspect its construction and, if need be, add
any cleats, rails, or corner blocks that will strengthen the piece
and ensure an easier installation.
Mario Rodriguez makes furniture and teaches woodworking
in Philadelphia.
100
SOMETIMES JUST A SCREW WILL DO
For some light-duty
applications, like
1
smaller picture
frames or a light
display shelf, you can
actually use coarsethreaded screws
designed to be driven
2
into drywall without
an anchor or a pilot
hole. They’re rated to
hold as much weight
as plastic sleeve
anchors, and they
have the advantage of leaving a relatively small hole when you extract
them. Lee Valley sells Wall Dog Screws (1), which have very nice bite
in drywall and are rated at 60 lb.; they can also be used in masonry (or
wood) if you drill a pilot hole. Bear Claw Screws (2), also available from
Lee Valley, have a flange below the head, making them well-suited for
frames or light mirrors that you are hanging with picture wire. They’re
rated at 30 lb. in drywall.
SELF-DRILLING ANCHORS
You drive these clever anchors into drywall with a screwdriver,
no predrilling required. I like their speed and ease of use. Their
coarse threads really bite into the wallboard, but they are easily
removed and leave little damage. Some have a solid shank
so that after a screw is driven into them they simply expand
somewhat; others are scored along the shank so the tip splits
open behind the drywall for greater holding power.
3
4
1
2
The EZ Ancor Drywall Anchor (1), rated for 50 lb., has a solid
shank that expands as the screw is driven; Toggler Self-Drilling
Drywall Anchors (2), rated for 65 lb., scissor open when the
screw is driven; EZ Ancor zinc drywall anchors (3), rated for
50 lb., can self-drill even if you happen to hit wood behind
the drywall; EZ Ancor Drywall and Stud Anchors (4), rated for
50 lb., have a coarsely threaded shank for drywall and a finely
threaded tip that enables it to grip a stud behind the drywall.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
101
Expanding anchors
PLASTIC SLEEVE ANCHORS
These anchors are suitable for light-duty tasks like
hanging pictures, curtain rods, small shelves, towel
rods, and paper holders. You predrill for them, and
they work in plaster-and-lath walls and masonry as
well as in drywall. Some merely expand when the
screw is driven in; others, like the Cobra Triple Grip,
have wings that will flip out behind the drywall.
Some of the smaller ones require only a small
predrilled hole and therefore very little repair when
they’re removed. Removing the ones with wings
can be a chore, and sometimes I just drive them
farther into the wall and spackle over the hole.
1
4
3
2
The Cobra Triple Grip (1), intended for all wall types,
is rated for 46–61 lb. in drywall, 200–225 lb. in
masonry; Everbilt Ribbed Plastic Anchors (2 and 3),
which come in kits of assorted sizes, are rated for 20–
25 lb. in drywall, 155–435 lb. in concrete; Duo Power
plastic anchors (4) elbow open and are rated for 45 lb.
MOLLY BOLTS
Molly bolts have a slotted sleeve that will spread open
behind a hollow wall when you tighten the machinethreaded screw, creating powerful purchase. They work best
with drywall but can also be used in a plaster-and-lath wall.
After you predrill and insert the anchor, tapping the sleeve’s
flange tight to the wall, you begin driving the screw. Small
spurs beneath the flange prevent the anchor from spinning
in the hole before the sleeve expands. These Midwest
Hollow Wall Anchors are rated for 100 lb.
102
Photos: Jonathan Binzen (action), Michael Pekovich (fasteners)
BUTTERFLY ANCHORS
1
2
Butterfly anchors have wings that spread
open behind a sheetrock wall. They come
in different sizes to suit drywall of various
thicknesses. The standard type, like the
Hillman Pop Toggle (1), rated for 80 lb.,
is only suitable with drywall. It requires a
large predrilled hole and won’t hold well if
the wings don’t deploy behind the wall. But
the Toggler Alligator Concrete and Drywall
Anchor (2), while it has wings that will open
behind drywall, has a slimmer shank that will
expand or scissor open in a predrilled hole,
making it suitable for use in masonry walls
as well. They are rated for 70 lb. in drywall
and 675 lb. in concrete.
Setting tool for molly
bolts. The old-style
molly has a newfangled
partner. Slip the bolt
into the gun’s tip and
the anchor into the
clearance hole. Pull the
trigger and the anchor’s
legs expand, locking
it tight. Very handy for
setting a lot of mollys.
Squeeze the wings and hammer the anchor
home. After predrilling, fold the anchor’s wings
together and push it into the hole, then tap it
home with a hammer until the flange is flush
with the wall surface. With the anchor in place,
use the supplied plastic pusher to pop open the
wings. Then drive the screw.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
103
Toggle anchors
TOGGLE BOLTS
When I need to secure larger cabinets or other wooden pieces to a drywall or
plaster wall and there is no stud accessible, toggle bolts are the anchors I most
often turn to. Composed of a bolt and a threaded, spring-loaded toggle, they’re
simple and dependable. They need a hollow space behind the wall, so they won’t
work in brick, but they do fine with concrete block. Their long screws make them
very adjustable, so they’re great for plaster-and-lath walls where wall thickness
can be inconsistent and hard to determine, often varying significantly on the
same wall.
After you’ve drilled through the wall, the inserted toggle must clear the wall
material far enough to spring open; they won’t work otherwise, so make sure to
use a long enough screw to get the toggle clear of the wall. Properly installed,
these anchors have a very positive feel. Once the screws are tightened, there is
little doubt that the cabinet they are holding is secure and strong. The Everbilt
toggle bolt above is rated for 95 lb. in drywall, 90 lb. in hollow block.
SELF-DRILLING TOGGLE
The Cobra Driller Toggle is a very clever hybrid
anchor, marrying self-drilling capability with
toggle action. The metal toggle, which is
hinged to a split plastic shaft, is threaded
at the tip. Using a screwdriver, you drive this
anchor in without predrilling; when the head
nears the wall, two short wings on the plastic
shaft pull it flush to the surface. Next you
insert the machine screw. As you do, the screw
pushes the toggle sideways until the threads
on the screw engage the threads on the toggle.
Then you tighten the screw until the toggle is
firmly drawn to the back of the drywall. This
anchor is rated for 100 lb. in drywall.
104
PULL TOGGLES
These are a new breed of toggle anchors that link a metal toggle with one or two ribbed
plastic pull strips. After drilling a hole in a hollow wall, you insert the toggle and push it all the
way through until it clears the hole. Next you pull on the strips until the toggle is crosswise and
tight to the inside of the wall. Then, to keep the toggle in place, you slide a threaded plastic
nut along the pull strip until it plugs into the hole you drilled. With the strips pulled tight,
you bend them back and forth until they snap off flush with the nut. Now you can insert the
machine screw; as the screw is tightened the toggle is pulled ever more firmly to the inside of
the wall. These toggles will work with any hollow wall, from drywall and plaster to cinderblock.
2
3
1
The Hillman Pull Toggle (1), with a spiked, solid
metal toggle and a single pull strip, is rated for
120 lb. in drywall and 620 lb. in concrete block;
the Cobra Flip Toggle (2), with a formed sheet metal
toggle, is rated for 105 lb. in drywall and 435 lb.
in block; the Toggler Snaptoggle (3) has two pull
strips, both hinged to the toggle, and once you
have inserted it you can use the strips to swivel
the toggle so it is parallel to the back of the wall; it
is rated 240 lb. in drywall and 800 lb. in concrete
block.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
105
Beyond drywall
SCREWS FOR METAL STUDS
Attaching woodwork to a sheetrock wall that has metal studs is not
much different than doing so on a wall with wood studs. Any of the
drywall anchors mentioned here will work between the studs. And if the
stud is in the right place, you can drive a long, heavy screw directly into
it. But if you want to create a particularly strong anchor point right on the
steel studs themselves, you could try 1Shot steel stud anchors, which are
rated for 300 lb. when driven into a steel stud. You can use them like a
giant screw to attach a workpiece to the wall, or you can use them like
an anchor, driving them flush to the drywall and hanging the workpiece
using a #8 screw driven into the hollow shank of the 1Shot.
SCREWS FOR MASONRY
Tapcon screws, or blue screws, have
become a dependable favorite of mine
for installing woodwork on a concrete
or masonry wall. They let you skip
masonry anchors and the big holes they
require. These screws need only a small
pilot hole (made with a masonry bit
and a hammer drill) before being driven
into place. With their unique doublethreading, they possess the ability to
tap their own threads in concrete or
brick, so they hold fast. I live in an old
house that still has brick behind plasteron-lath party walls. In the correct length,
Tapcon screws allow me to go right past
the plaster and lath and into solid brick.
I’ve never had a blue screw strip or had
its head snap off.
You can buy Buildex Tapcon
Concrete Anchors in star drive or
Phillips-head versions and they’re
available as a kit that comes with the
correctly sized masonry bit.
106
EXPANDING MASONRY ANCHORS
Red Head Sleeve Anchors (1) have a threaded bolt in a
metal sleeve. One end of the bolt is flared, so that when a
nut is tightened on the other end the wedge expands the
sleeve, locking it in the hole. Wedge anchors require a hole
drilled slightly deeper than the length of the anchor. After
you drill the hole with a masonry bit and hammer drill, be
sure to vacuum out the brick or cinder dust. Then slide the
anchor into the hole. Once it’s seated, the threaded portion
of the anchor, extending from the wall, receives a washer
and nut to secure the woodwork to the wall. They’re a little
unsightly, but very strong. Once the anchor is fixed into the
masonry, the woodwork can be easily attached, adjusted, or
removed without compromising the seated anchor.
1
2
When you want to attach with screws or lag screws, use
lead sleeve anchors. These old-style Everbilt soft lead lag
sleeves (2) are studded with projections and built in two
loosely connected halves, allowing them to expand and shift
in shape to conform to a predrilled hole when the screw is
driven home.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
107
AC C ES S O RI ES
▶
S LI D E S
Drawer Slides
The best slides offer smooth action and easy installation
B Y
W
ith over 21 years making custom
cabinets, I use only undermount
soft-close slides. But not every
budget has room for the most-expensive
slides available, so in this look at drawer
slides, I included lower-cost options. The
two low-cost options are a bit more finicky
to install because they lack built-in up/
down and tilt adjustments, but they are
very reliable when installed with care. The
more expensive slides have built-in adjustments and ultrasmooth operation. And
B E N
S C O T T
they mount on the drawer bottom instead
of the sides, so they’re hidden from view
when the drawer is open.
One of the keys to drawers that operate
smoothly is getting the slides installed on
the cabinet box at the same height and
square to the front of the case on both
sides. Drawer boxes must also be made
the correct size.
We use an adjustable Blum jig to drill the
holes for the slides at the needed height; it
is costly, but it saves a lot of time. You can
also lay out the slide mounting holes on
a plywood or MDF template and use it to
drill the holes in the cabinet sides before
attaching the slides. The slide dimensions
here fit a 24-in.-deep cabinet, and the
prices include a pair of slides and the
locking devices for the drawer box. The
Grass prices include the rear drawer-box
mounting brackets as well.
Ben Scott is cabinetmaker in Maple Ridge,
B.C., Canada.
HEAVY DUTY
ACCURIDE 4034 SIDE MOUNT
Model no. C403422D Length 22 in.
Load rating 150 lb. Price $35 per pair
These are standard slides for commercial
projects. They operate well, are fairly smoothrunning, and have a good load capacity. This
model is not self- or soft-close—you have to
push the slides closed and a detent holds them shut.
There are soft-close models, but in my experience, they don’t
operate very well, and the added cost comes to nearly the same as
heavy-duty undermount slides. Drawer boxes can be made with a
plant-on bottom or a grooved-in bottom, but because the slides mount
to the sides of the drawer box, a plant-on bottom can pull off if it isn’t
well-attached.
Side clearance is 11⁄16 in. smaller than the opening. We typically use
veneer-core plywood for our drawer boxes, with a 3⁄4-in. front and back
and 1⁄2-in. sides, doweled together. The 1⁄2-in. material is usually 1⁄32 in.
108
undersize, so we cut the front and back of the drawer box 2 in. smaller
than the inside of the cabinet. The undersize 1⁄2-in. material provides
the additional 1⁄16-in. clearance needed. The slides must be straight on
the cabinet and the drawer for proper operation. The downsides are a
lack of adjustments and side-to-side racking on wide drawers.
Drawings: Peter Wojcieszek.
NO FRILLS
BLUM 230M SIDE MOUNT
Model no. 230M5500 Length 22 in.
Load rating 55 lb.
Price $7
These are the lowest-price standard drawer slides.
They work well and are self-closing—when the
drawer is almost closed they ramp into the closed
position. They are easy to install on the drawer
box by either screwing to the underside or to the
outside. The slides wrap under the drawer so you
can use a plant-on bottom without risking the
drawer bottom pulling off. Drawer boxes are 1 in.
narrower than the drawer opening.
These are reliable low-cost slides. I like that if the drawer is slightly
smaller, the slides will still work, because one side of the slide hooks the nylon
wheel to keep it tracking correctly, and the other, straight side accommodates up
to 1⁄8-in. undersizing. These slides aren’t as smooth-running and are a little louder
than more-expensive options. The weight capacity is the lowest of the bunch,
and there is no soft-close option. And with only three-quarter extension, there’s
limited access to the back of the drawer.
AFFORDABLE UNDERMOUNT
BLUM TANDEM
Model no. 563F5330B Length 21 in.
Load rating 100 lb.
Price $30
Standard
locking
device
These were the first widely available undermount drawer slides I
used. They’re smooth-running, they mount under the drawer box, and
they’re hidden by the drawer sides when the drawer is open. The first
version didn’t have soft-close, and then the feature was an add-on;
now, all Tandem slides have soft-close built in. These were the first
slides that I used with up/down and tilt adjustments to the drawer
faces. Clips hold the drawer box to the slide at the front, and a 6-mm
hole drilled into the back of the drawer holds the back of the drawer
box and provides the tilt adjustment. The drawer bottom must be
above the bottoms of the drawer sides for attachment and to ensure
the slides are hidden from view.
Photos: Rodney Diaz
All undermount slides from Blum and Grass use the same
sizing. The drawer-box front and back are 42 mm smaller than
the inside measurement of the cabinet. The drawer-box sides can
be any thickness up to 5⁄8 in. (16 mm). The depth of the drawer is
determined by the slide length, sold in 50-mm increments. The
drawer is always 10 mm shorter than the slide length. For example, a
550-mm slide holds a 540-mm drawer.
The drawbacks are no side-to-side adjustment, and the hole in
the back of the drawer is hard to locate. It typically lands where the
drawer bottom and the back of the drawer box meet. We use the
manufacturers’ jigs to drill these holes, but the location isn’t ideal.
TAU N T O N ’ S 2 0 2 3 T O O L G U I D E
109
EXCELLENT ADJUSTABILITY
Adjustment
adapter
GRASS DYNAPRO 16
Model no. F130100728204
Load rating 100 lb.
Price $35
Length 21 in.
These slides (and the
Tipmatic version below) are really
the only slides we use now. They are smooth-running,
come in a heavy-duty version for additional weight capacity, and seem to
have less side-to-side racking than all the other slides I’ve used, which is great
for wide drawers. Up/down, side-to-side, and tilt adjustments are built into the
front mounting clips, and there’s an add-on for in/out adjustment.
Front
locking
device
Sizing is the same as the Blum; the inside width of the drawer
is 42 mm smaller than the inside width of the
cabinet. The depth is the same as Blum
too: 10 mm less than the length of the
slide.
The big plus of these slides is the backof-drawer mounting bracket, called an
“adjustment adaptor,” that’s screwed to
the drawer box and accepts the hook for
the tilt adjustment. It is easy to locate
the holes for the mounting screws with
a shopmade or manufacturer’s jig. The
setup creates a positive connection at
the back of the drawer and makes the tilt
adjustment easy to access and operate.
BEST PUSH-TO-OPEN
GRASS DYNAPRO 16 TIPMATIC
Model no. F130116434204
Load rating 100 lb.
Price $75
These are Grass’s topshelf slides. They have
up/down, side to side,
and tilt adjustments
as do the standard
Dynapro, but these
slides also include a
push-to-open feature
that is built into the
slides. The push-to-open
has three settings so
you can adjust them for
each drawer weight.
110
Length 21 in.
Adjustment
adapter
Narrow
front
locking
device
Photo Credit: Creative Commons