“I DON’T WANT TO
BELONG TO ANYONE OR
ANYTHING.”

JENNA ORTEGA

Hooded dress,
Ferragamo, $2,400.
Elsa Peretti cuff,
Tiffany & Co., $1,700.

Editor’s Letter

Scream Queen
hen I dropped in to visit the set of her ELLE cover shoot, I was
struck by what a natural Jenna Ortega is in front of the camera. The
Wednesday star is unbelievably self-assured and composed for someone who’s a mere 20 years old. It’s clear that it’s all about her craft, not
her, and she displays an impressive level of maturity. In front of Felix
Cooper’s lens, Ortega completely transforms in the same way she does
onscreen. She assumes the character; you can see it in her expressive eyes.
No wonder Ortega was director Tim Burton’s choice to tackle one of pop culture’s
most beloved heroines. It’s been powerful for me getting to see a young Latina fronting
one of Netflix’s biggest hits of the year and becoming a horror-movie queen with the
Scream franchise. Our cover star tells Hunter Harris that she’s made a point of playing
fully fleshed-out characters, not “being the sidekick who carries the Puerto Rican flag
on her shoulder and makes it her entire personality.” And she’s found perhaps her ideal
role in Wednesday Addams. “You have to kind of ‘be’ Wednesday, and that’s what Jenna
is,” Burton says. “Whether she likes it or not, she’s got that in her soul.”

W

12

April is our first-ever Impact issue,
and beginning on page 66 we honor 14
women who are making their mark on
the world right now. Whether it’s actress,
singer, and budding mogul Keke Palmer,
Ukrainian First Lady Olena Zelenska,
Michigan governor Gretchen Whitmer,
or climate activist Xiye Bastida, our subjects this month are a diverse and inspiring group. And on page 44, we look at the
women working to make fashion more
inclusive, green, and ethical.
Our fashion pages are a primer on
everything you need to know this season: the return of the mini; the reign of
minimalist ease; the must-have collaborations sure to fly off the shelves; and
Aquazzura founder and creative director
Edgardo Osorio’s fashion-insider guide
to Florence. Osorio hails from my hometown of Baranquilla, Colombia. I have an
incredible relationship with him and am
so happy to celebrate him in our pages.
The saying “Every day is Earth Day”
definitely applies here at ELLE, where
sustainability has always been a closely
held value of ours. As we celebrate Earth
Month, journalist and author of Worn
Out Alyssa Hardy breaks down the significance of “circularity,” one of fashion’s
biggest buzzwords right now. And our
annual Green Beauty Stars feature salutes
those who are making a difference in the
industry—including Harry Styles, whose
newest Pleasing Polishes nail colors
feature a brush made from eco-friendly
castor beans.
In a rare interview, the very private
First Daughter, Ashley Biden, tells Deputy
Editor Kayla Webley Adler that she wants
to use her public stature to help people
who have been through trauma get the
care they need, regardless of their socioeconomic status. “I think that I have an
obligation in this position, if I can, to amplify the issues and to talk about what
truly, truly works,” she says. Biden opens
up about how the criticism of her family
has affected her, and how she’s standing her ground in the face of it. “I like the
saying ‘The real flex is staying kind no
matter how cruel the world gets,’” she
says. “That’s been my mission recently, to
stay kind, to stay grounded.” It’s a mission
statement we can all take to heart.

@ N I N AGA RC I A

N I N AGA RC I A

@ N I N AGA RC I AO F F I C I A L

FELIX CO OP ER

ON ORTEGA: DRESS,
DOLCE & GABBANA.

Nina’s Edit

1

2

3
4

Paris When It Sizzles
ELLE editor-in-chief Nina Garcia embraces all the
excitement and glamour of couture season, from
the surreal designs to the iconic Parisian venues.

7

5

1. Garcia between appointments
at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée.
2. The Plaza Athénée’s iconic
courtyard, with its striking red awnings,
umbrellas, and climbing greenery.
3. Doja Cat sporting custom
Schiaparelli—and covered
in 30,000 Swarovski crystals.
4. Gucci’s high jewelry collection,
featuring ornate bow motifs.
5. Jean Paul Gaultier couture,
designed by Haider Ackermann.
6. A nighttime view of the Eiffel
Tower from the Plaza Athénée.
7. The Petit Palais, where the
Schiaparelli show was held, houses
an impressive gallery of sculptures.

HÔTEL PLAZA ATHÉNÉE: COURTESY OF DORCHESTER
COLLECTION; JEAN PAUL GAULTIER MODEL: COURTESY OF THE
DESIGNER; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF NINA GARCIA.

6

DIOR.COM - 800.929.DIOR (3467)

LA D MY DIOR
STEEL WITH "CANNAGE" PATTERN

April Volume XXXVIII Number 7

46 SIREN SONG

With a new H&M
collaboration,
Mugler is bringing
its viral popularity
to a new audience.
By Adrienne Gaffney
48 IN THE LOOP

Circularity is touted
as a solution to fashion
waste. Alyssa Hardy
considers what
that might mean.
50 LONE STAR

Naomi Rougeau talks
to Brunello Cucinelli
about his new Neiman
Marcus collection.

Beauty
53 IT LIST: FRESH CUTS

ELLE editors reveal
their favorite beauty
picks for spring.
56 THE 2023 GREEN
BEAUTY STARS

Channel ’70s glamour
with chunky stone
accessories.

Osorio’s favorites for
Florence travelers.

37 ELLE SHOP

Front Row

26 NEW ARRIVALS

Subtle glamour reigns
supreme this spring.

22

Trending

Stunning metallics
and stylish
utilitarian finds.

32 FLIGHTS OF FANCY

40 RENAISSANCE MAN

The bright lights of April,
picked by our editors.

Aquazzura’s Edgardo
Osorio at work.

44 CHANGE AGENTS

As the fashion industry
looks to move forward,
Naomi Rougeau
meets the women
making it happen.

90 THE BIG SHORT

Check your
investments:
Hemlines are rising.
Photographed by
Paul Wetherell. Styled
by Alexander Picon

108 SHOPPING GUIDE

Perspectives
16 NINA’S EDIT

Acting comes naturally
for the Wednesday
and Scream VI star,
but true fame is harder.
By Hunter Harris.
Photographed by
Felix Cooper. Styled
by Patti Wilson

62 AMANDA GORMAN
WRITES POETRY
IN THE BATH

Kelly Mickle asks
why some women
are winding down with
magic mushrooms
instead of alcohol.

42 SUPER TUSCAN

76 JENNA ORTEGA
IS WATCHING YOU

100 STRICTLY
BUSINESS

64 SHROOMS ARE THE
NEW CALI SOBER

36 STONE AGE

Fashion

The best beauty
products designed
to help address
packaging waste,
emissions, and
environmental
degradation.
By Erica Smith

The Estée Lauder
Global Changemaker
talks to Kathleen
Hou about her
wellness rituals
and the allure of
“witchy stuff.”

12 EDITOR’S LETTER

Daughter speaks with
Kayla Webley Adler
about the value
of shedding a bit of
privacy to help others.
Photographed by
Celeste Sloman. Styled
by Sarah Zendejas

66 WOMEN OF IMPACT

ELLE honors 14
powerhouse women—
across politics, fashion,
activism, and other
spheres—who are
using their talents to
better the world.
72 ASHLEY BIDEN
KNOWS WHO SHE IS

In her first major
interview, the First

Clean lines and
swept-up hair always
hit the right note.
Photographed by
Bryce Anderson. Styled
by Alexander Picon
110 HOROSCOPE

THE COVER LOOK

Jenna Ortega wears
a top from Loewe.
For Ortega’s makeup
look, try Hydro
Boost Gel-Cream
with Hyaluronic
Acid for Extra-Dry
Skin, Revitalizing Lip
Balm SPF 20, and
Smokey Kohl Eyeliner.
All, Neutrogena.
Photographed by Felix
Cooper (styled by
Patti Wilson; hair by
Ward Stegerhoek
at Home Agency;
makeup by Marcelo
Gutierrez at Bryant
Artists; manicure by
Honey at Exposure
NY; set design by
Andy Harman at
Lalaland Artists;
produced by Heather
Robbins and Mary
Goughnour at CLM).

FELIX CO OP ER; FOR DE TA ILS, SEE S HOPP ING GU IDE .

HOODED DRESS,
FERRAGAMO,
$2,400. ELSA
PERETTI CUFFS,
TIFFANY & CO.,
$1,700 EACH.

NINA GARCIA
Editor-in-Chief
Creative Director STEPHEN GAN
Executive Managing Editor ERIN HOBDAY
Executive Editor SARA AUSTIN
Design Director HARRY GASSEL
Fashion Director ALEX WHITE
Fashion Market and Accessories Director ALEXIS WOLFE
Visual Director CARY GEORGES
Deputy Editor KAYLA WEBLEY ADLER
Fashion Features Director VÉRONIQUE HYLAND
Entertainment Director JENNIFER WEISEL
Deputy Managing Editor JEFFREY INGLEDUE
FASHION

Senior Market Editor SARAH ZENDEJAS
Credits Editor CAITLIN MULLEN
Market Editor JADE VALLARIO
Fashion Associates KEVIN LEBLANC, ROSIE JARMAN
Fashion and Accessories Assistant MADISON REXROAT

CAROL A. SMITH
Senior Vice President, Group Publishing Director
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FEATURES

Features Director MELISSA GIANNINI
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ELLE.COM

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The BAG

Celine’s petite basket bag is an elevated version of the classic Provençal souvenir.
Basket bag, Celine by Hedi Slimane, $3,950, celine.com.
26

C OURTESY O F T HE D ESIGNE R.

New Arrivals

The SHOE

Nothing indicates the mercury is rising quite like the appearance of
raffia. Bottega Veneta’s must-have mule gets an au naturel update for spring.
Sandal, Bottega Veneta, $1,500, bottegaveneta.com.
28

C OURTESY O F MODA O PER AN DI.

New Arrivals

RADO.COM

MASTER OF MATERIALS

RADO CENTRIX

The NECKLACE

Made for the season’s bare-shoulders trend, Ana Khouri’s masterpiece of yellow
and white gold, Brazilian rosewood, and white diamond is a guaranteed head-turner.
Necklace, Ana Khouri, anakhouri.com.
30

COURTESY OF T HE D ESIGNE R.

New Arrivals

HAUTE JOAILLERIE
CHOPARD BOUTIQUES
NEW YORK 730 Fifth Avenue – MIAMI Bal Harbour Shops – COSTA MESA South Coast Plaza
1-800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com

Trending
THIS MONTH

FLIGHTS
of Fancy

The latest fashion and
beauty news, handpicked
by ELLE editors.

ACCESSORIES

Eye-catching jewelry
that marries semiprecious
and precious stones.

April is all about
the transportive power
of imagination.

ELLE SHOP

Sleek metallics rule the
day, while utilitarian
staples go high fashion.

LIVING + TRAVEL

ROBE RT W UN MO D EL: PHOTOGR APH ED BY LUCA TOM BOLI NI; LU Z CA MINO BRO OCH : FE RN AN DO RA MA JO.

Aquazzura’s Edgardo
Osorio finds inspiration
in Florence.

1

1 . U P F I R S T AS W E D I V E I N TO T H E B E S T O F A P R I L :

Robert Wun, who made his couture debut in Paris this season.
The Hong Kong native found inspiration in horror films—specifically the work of Stephen King—for his collection, which
was appropriately titled “Fear” and drew from his own creative
doubts. “Who am I as a designer? Am I good enough?” asked
Wun in his show notes. His design process was about “turning
what we fear most into the inspiration itself.” That translated into
details such as shattered pearl necklaces and feather “rain.” Prior
to entering the rarefied world of couture, Wun created custom
garments for artists, including Erykah Badu, Solange Knowles,
and Lady Gaga. He also took home the Special Prize at the 2022
ANDAM Fashion Awards with an avian-inspired collection, so
you’ll want to keep an eye on this young talent. robertwun.com.
32

2
2. WINGED BEAUTY

Jewelry designer Luz Camino’s
nickname is “the queen of pliqueà-jour,” after the historic technique
she often employs. The new book
A Bit of Universe pays tribute to
Camino’s work and includes a
foreword by Carolina Herrera.
rizzoliusa.com.

Trending
3

THE C OLO NY HOTE L RO OM: CARMEL BR ANT LEY; RE MA IN ING IMAG ES: C OURT ESY OF THE DESI GN ERS A ND BR A NDS.

5

3 . E AT Y O U R V E G G I E S
6

Just in time for spring entertaining, Misette is debuting the Fête
collection, its most whimsical one
yet. Standout pieces include plates
hand-painted with illustrations of
produce, flowers, and croissants,
and linens embroidered with the
same motifs. The cheerful primary colors will brighten up any
tabletop. Fête hand-painted plates,
$340 for set of four salad plates,
$380 for set of four dinner plates,
misettetable.com.

4

5. BEACH, PLEASE
4. CASTLE ROCK

When Boucheron creative director Claire Choisne was in search
of inspiration for a new high jewelry collection, she looked to the
firm’s archives—and couldn’t take
her eyes off an aquamarine and
diamond double-clip brooch given to then-Princess Elizabeth on
her 18th birthday. Choisne channeled the same Art Deco motifs
into the Histoire de Style, Like
a Queen collection, which includes
emerald and diamond convertible
earrings. boucheron.com.

Palm Beach’s pink paradise, the Colony Hotel, is turning 75.
To mark the occasion, all the rooms are getting a redesign courtesy of Kemble Interiors, whose founder is a Palm Beach native.
There’s still plenty of rattan, but now with de Gournay wall coverings and a line of furniture created in collaboration with Society
Social, available for sale. thecolonypalmbeach.com.
6 . S C E N T WAV E S

There’s the real scent of the ocean (seaweed, iodine), and then
the ideal (sunscreen, crisp air), which House of Bō has encapsulated in El Sireno, an intoxicating fragrance with notes
of kelp, tuberose, and sandalwood. Founder Bernardo Möller
draws inspiration from his Mexican heritage, and the name is a
masculine play on sirena (“mermaid”) in Spanish. El Sireno
Parfum, $365, houseofbo.com.
35

Trending

SAUER
“We revisit the teardrop, an ancient, multicultural motif, and bring the emblematic
Celtic, Persian, Kashmiri, and hippie pattern
to the present day.”—Stephanie Wenk
Tiger’s-eye, citrine, diamond,
and gold earrings, Sauer, $6,800,
modaoperandi.com.

R E T R O U VA Í
“My intention with these
one-of-a-kind pieces was to combine
semiprecious stone slabs with a precious
faceted gem. The lapis really makes
the emerald come alive.”—Kirsty Stone
Talisman pendant, Retrouvaí,
twistonline.com.

STONE AGE

H AU T E V I C TO I R E
“The use of blue and orange as complementary
colors creates a perfect contrasting
relationship. Neither overwhelms the other, and
both are in perfect balance.”—Yasmina Benazzou
Lapis Lazuli Fish and Shell with Ametrine
necklace, Haute Victoire, $4,800, amarees.com.

MING JEWELLERY
“Black diamonds are so hard that light
reflects off them as a white
flash. This contrasts with the soft, flowing warmth of the red coral dome
and the ripples of gold.”—Ming Lampson

JENNA BLAKE
“The diamonds elevate the playfulness of color in hard stones,
while the hard stones ground
the diamonds, giving them a more
approachable feel.”—Jenna Blake

SORELLINA
“I look to nature when I’m assembling
a palette of interesting color combinations. I really love the juxtaposition
of soft pink tourmaline against bold
tiger’s-eye.”—Nicole Carosella, cofounder

Coral, black diamond, and
gold ring, Ming, mingjewellery.com.

Lapis ring, Jenna Blake, $7,200,
neimanmarcus.com.

Tourmaline and tiger’s-eye earrings,
Sorellina, $5,950, sorellinanyc.com.

36

C OURTESY O F T HE D ESIGNE RS.

Chunky gems such as lapis lazuli, coral,
and tiger’s-eye offer distinctly ’70s glamour.
We asked the designers behind
the baubles to share some of the backstory.

2

1

3

1. Headphone
necklace, Coperni,
$690, modaoperandi
.com. 2. Refillable
lipstick case, Valdé
Beauty, $199,
valdebeauty.com.
3. Dress, Dolce &
Gabbana, $2,995,
dolceandgabbana.com.
4. Pump, Pīferi, $675,
neimanmarcus.com.
5. Handbag, JW
Anderson, $990,
jwanderson.com.
On model, left:
N21 by Alessandro
Dell’Acqua
prefall 2023.

4

COURTESY OF T HE D ESIGNE RS A ND BRA ND S.

GLEAM Team

5

Past, present, and future collide in a season
filled with precious-metal finishes.

ny silhouette—from a winged goddess to wired
headphones—can transform when dipped in
precious metal, alchemically turning the everyday into the eternal. Valdé Beauty did just that
to the humble lipstick case, crafting its version
from a zinc alloy coated in liquid gold. Its shape
was designed to evoke the power of women, explains founder
Margarita Arriagada. Meanwhile, Kim Kardashian, acting as curator and muse, convinced Dolce & Gabbana to open its archives

A

this season, inspiring pieces like a clingy, ’50s-siren-meets-’90sdiva wiggle dress. Another shiny ’90s stalwart? Jeff Koons’s
Balloon Dog, to which sly homage is paid in JW Anderson’s
Mylar-like twist on his Twister Bag. Coperni threw back to a more
recent era, immortalizing wired headphones in sculptural jewelry, and it doesn’t get more current than the curve of a Pīferi pump.
“I love a classic reimagined,” says founder and creative director
Alfredo Piferi. “I wanted a light-catching 24K gold hue. It’s our
golden hour!”—ROSIE JARMAN
37

Trending

E LL E SH OP
4

1

2

3

5

11

7

1. Pants, Jil Sander by
Lucie and Luke Meier,
$1,950, modaoperandi
.com. 2. Coat, Ermanno
Scervino, Ermanno
Scervino, Miami.
3. Whistle pendant
necklace, Tiffany & Co. x
Nike, $400, tiffany.com.
4. Sunglasses, Michael
Kors Collection, $320,
michaelkors.com.
5. Sandal, Khaite, $1,080,
khaite.com. 6. Jacket,
Ambush, $1,700,
ambushdesign.com.
7. Handbag, Akris, $995,
akris.com. 8. Bucket hat,
Telfar, $148, telfar.net.
9. Mule, Proenza
Schouler, $850,
proenzaschouler.com.
10. Watch, Audemars
Piguet, audemarspiguet
.com. 11. Skirt, Sacai,
$825, saksfifthavenue.com.

10

8
9

The utility trend gets an
elevated update,
from cropped flight
jackets to sterling
silver referee whistles.

WORK BOOTS,
FATIGUES,
AND A MINIBAG
PENDANT
AT FENDI
SPRING 2023.

FENDI MODEL: PHOTOGRAPHED BY VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO/GET T Y IMAGES; JIL SANDER PANTS: COURTESY OF MODA OPERANDI; SACAI
SKIRT: COURTESY OF SAKS FIFTH AVENUE; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS AND BRANDS; FOR DETAILS, SEE SHOPPING GUIDE.

6

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14

Trending

LI V IN G

Renaissance
Man

The artisanship of Florence
inspires Edgardo Osorio’s
Aquazzura handbag collection.
always had this funny feeling that I lived here
in another life,” says Edgardo Osorio. “I’m
a proud Colombian, but at the same time,
somehow Italy, particularly Florence, felt like
home.” The designer first landed in the city,
famed for its skilled artisans, in 2005 after
starting a consulting company. By 2012, Osorio had launched
his own brand—dubbed Aquazzura for the crystal-blue waters
of Capri, which the jet-setting designer often visits. The unique
designs (like the classic black Bow Tie pump, recognizable by
its cutaway heel) quickly made their way onto Rihanna, Taylor
Swift, and, well, just about everyone on and off the red carpet.
Osorio had an equally charmed experience when searching for a home base in Florence, due to a chance meeting with
the Corsini family. “The first presentation I ever did was in the
Palazzo Corsini, which had always been my favorite palazzo in
Florence,” he says. “I’d always had a funny idea that I’d love to
live there, though I didn’t know it was possible.” Osorio eventually moved his HQ into the late Principessa Corsini’s former
apartment within the palazzo, moved himself into a top-floor

I

apartment, and took over an adjacent, street-facing retail space
for the first Aquazzura boutique. “The spaces are so beautiful
that you don’t need to do a lot with the interiors,” says Osorio,
who’s brought in contemporary art (like a portrait of Osorio by
artist and friend Lola Schnabel Montes) and furniture (such as a
1960s Vladimir Kagan sofa) to balance out the ornate frescoes. A
home collection, Aquazzura Casa, which launched last summer,
featured several botanical motifs inspired by the 16th-century
garden outside his office.
“There’s a richness to Florence and an unparalleled concentration of skill, starting of course with leather,” Osorio says. That was
the jumping-off point for his latest challenge: handbags. Among
the standouts are the Downtown 24/7 bag in a candy-colored
croc print and the Tequila bag, which complements Osorio’s bestselling vertiginous sandal of the same name. “Like the shoes, I
wanted them to be versatile, never over-branded but recognizable and iconic. It was never about a logo.”—NAOMI ROUGEAU
40

A ND REA GA ND INI

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE:
OSORIO ASSEMBLING A
MOODBOARD IN HIS FLORENCE
HQ; KISS ME MINAUDIÈRES
IN PINK AND SILVER;
THE DOWNTOWN 24/7 BAG.

* The alchemy of senses

A LOVE LET TER
TO ITALY

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Tuscan

From charming trattorias
to furniture finds,
Edgardo Osorio shares his
Florence favorites.
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In town, Osorio recommends booking
a hotel near the Arno
River in order to best
see the city on foot.
Portrait Firenze and
the Hotel Lungarno
both offer rooms with
river views, while
the Four Seasons has
an 11-acre garden and
“probably the nicest
brunch in Florence.”
For a weekend in the
countryside, Belmond
Hotel’s Villa San
Michele is “like a
dream,” Osorio says.

“My canteen is
Trattoria Cammillo—
I normally eat there
once a week,” says
Osorio of the homey
standby for no-frills
Tuscan food that
is always teeming with
locals. For oenophiles,
the designer recommends Cantinetta
Antinori, owned by
the legendary winemaking family of the
same name.

For midcentury and
modern furniture,
Osorio can’t get enough
of Flair, which is near
the Aquazzura boutique
on Lungarno Corsini.
And if it’s design
inspiration you’re
looking for, he
recommends Palazzo
Strozzi for contemporary exhibitions,
and the Museo Stibbert,
which was home to
a 19th-century collector.
“You’re basically
walking into a time
capsule,” Osorio says.

VILL A SA N MIC HELE E XTE RIOR: T YS ON SA DLO; GUEST ROO M: MAT TI A AQ UIL A .

culinary creation by Michelin-

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Front Row
MODELS BACKSTAGE
AT KAROLINE
VITTO’S SPRING 2023
SHOW IN LONDON.

From designers to
policymakers,
meet the women
committed to shifting
the fashion industry
in a positive direction.

CHANGE
Agents
ver the last decade,
we’ve all become increasingly well-informed about where,
how, and by whom our
clothing is manufactured. Activist Aditi Mayer has been one
of the voices bringing attention to those
questions. She began examining the historical, social, and political injustices
that bolster the estimated $1.7 trillion
industry in the wake of 2013’s Rana Plaza
factory collapse in Bangladesh. “All the
greatest fights of our time—from the climate catastrophe to racism—are acutely
linked by a mentality of seeing nature, or

O

44

communities, as disposable,” she says.
“Fashion, as an industry, is an extension
of this.” Each of the 11 women featured
here experienced similar moments that
spurred them to do their part and utilize
their own unique skill sets, from policymaking to inventing alternative leathers.
THE JUSTICE LEAGUE

Since 2016, Mayer has championed the
rights of garment workers in downtown L.A., fighting for policies such as
California’s Garment Worker Protection
Act, which went into effect in 2022.
Meanwhile, on the East Coast, Alessandra
Biaggi is promoting the Fashion Sustain-

ability and Social Accountability Act,
which Biaggi, who was elected to the
New York State Senate in 2019, introduced
last year with Assemblymember Anna R.
Kelles. It would require companies doing
business in the state with revenues in excess of $100 million to map 50 percent of
their supply chains and disclose their social and environmental impacts. “For too
long, the fashion industry has operated
in a black box, with little accountability,”
Biaggi says. Though she has since traded politics for academia—she’s starting
Harvard Divinity School in the fall—she
plans to continue the fight for environmental justice, and hopes her education

MUSHROOM-BASED
LEATHER BY
MYCOWORKS IN
PARTNERSHIP WITH
HERON PRESTON.

“FOR TOO LONG,
THE FASHION
INDUSTRY
HAS OPERATED IN
A BLACK BOX.”

K AROL INE VI T TO MODE LS: P HOTOG RA PH ED BY A NA FLO R ES; H ERO N P RESTO N FRUI T:
CORE Y O LSEN; ATE LI ER ND IGO MOD EL : P H OTOG R AP H ED BY TO M M Y C H UN G.

—Alessandra Biaggi
will equip her with “even more powerful
tools of dialogue and truth-telling.”
Studio 189 cofounder Abrima Erwiah
was working for Bottega Veneta when
she observed how differently Italy’s artisans were valued than those in developing economies, witnessing the gulf
firsthand while visiting family in Ghana.
After an invitation from actress Rosario
Dawson to attend a philanthropic mission to the Democratic Republic of the
Congo—where they met female victims
of sexual violence who were supporting
their families with the proceeds from
sales of their crafts—the duo solidified the idea for Studio 189. Propelling
African artisanship into the luxury space,
the brand empowers women while remaining environmentally conscious.
“We consider social impact a part of being sustainable,” Erwiah says.
Designer Svitlana Bevza is best
known for her sustainable ethos (Gigi
Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski are fans).
Forced to flee her native Ukraine last
year (she has since returned), Bevza produced her spring collection with an allUkrainian team via Zoom: “By being
a voice for my country and an example
for [others] who were forced to leave,
I hope to show them how to carry on.”

THE GREEN GODDESSES

While on sabbatical from a finance career, Vanessa Barboni Hallik says she
started “redefining how I viewed success, shifting emphasis from external recognition to internal values.”
Determined to help counter fashion’s
environmental impact, she founded the
sustainably manufactured line Another
Tomorrow, which launched a resale program last year. Next up: a net-carbonsequestering wool farm.
Not all fashion starts in a design studio.
In a plant in the Bay Area, MycoWorks’
Sophia Wang is creating the leather of
the future using mushrooms. Celebrity
makeup artist Daniel Martin recently
collaborated with the company to create a brush case, and MycoWorks got an
earlier vote of confidence in 2022 via an
influx of $125 million in a Series C funding round. “Fashion is a powerful language for creating new narratives about
what’s valuable, desirable, ethical, and
necessary,” Wang says.
The industry is rife with accolades,
but few are worth their salt when it
comes to being green. The Butterfly
Mark is a notable exception: The highest
recognition a luxury brand can receive
for sustainability across its supply chain
(recipients include Dior couture and
Tom Ford Beauty), the mark was created by sustainability expert Diana Verde
Nieto after a conversation with Sir David
Attenborough about the British Large
Blue butterfly, which had been brought
back from the verge of extinction in the
1980s. “I found it a great symbol to represent the fragility of our planet and the
strength of our convictions, big or small,
to better our world,” she says.

“WE CONSIDER
SOCIAL IMPACT
A PART OF BEING
SUSTAINABLE.”
—Abrima Erwiah
A SPRING 2023
LOOK FROM
ATELIER NDIGO,
A DISCOVERY
SHOWROOM
PARTICIPANT.

THE COMMUNITY BUILDERS

Among the efforts to further diversity
and inclusion in the fashion industry, few
have been as consistent and successful as
Harlem’s Fashion Row, founded nearly
16 years ago by Brandice Daniel in order
to mentor and provide a platform for
BIPOC designers with its annual fashion show and other events. Over that
time, Daniel has forged partnerships
with companies like LVMH and Tiffany
& Co. A donation from the CFDA in 2020
enabled the launch of the ICON360 program, which to date has donated more

“WE CHANGED
THE WAY THAT
[CUSTOMERS
AND MODELS] VIEW
THEMSELVES.”
—Karoline Vitto
than $2 million to fashion programs at
HBCUs and to BIPOC designers who
struggled with keeping their businesses
open during the pandemic. “HFR has
always been bigger than me, and the
designers we work with keep me motivated,” Daniel says.
PR maven Sandrine Charles has also
been busy: After carving out a successful
career in PR, she founded her own consulting firm in 2016, became a cofounder
of the Black in Fashion Council in 2020,
and now serves on the board of UNICEF
Next Generation. Among the council’s many initiatives is the Discovery
Showroom, a partnership with IMG
that helps promote Black talent in New
York during Fashion Month. Despite all
she’s accomplished, Charles isn’t one to
rest on past laurels. “It’s about the long
game. Many things haven’t changed,
but many [brands] are actively sticking
to the changes that they proclaimed in
the wake of wokeness in 2020,” she says.
“My culture keeps me motivated. I want
to leave the door open to make it easier
for the next person to have a chance.”
Across the pond, Karoline Vitto is
leading the charge for size inclusivity. The
Brazilian-born designer made a splash
with her London Fashion Week debut as
part of Fashion East in September, with
body-con jersey pieces that were shown
on models ranging in size from 6 to 18—a
still-too-rare occurrence on the runway
these days. “I am creating a space for people who haven’t felt like they were part
of the conversation before,” Vitto says.
Customers and models alike have told
her that “we changed the way they look
at themselves.”—NAOMI ROUGEAU
45

Front Row
W

Siren
SONG

With a new H&M
collaboration, Mugler
creative director
Casey Cadwallader
is taking the house’s
signature sexed-up
silhouettes mainstream.

Cadwallader knows that working with H&M will give young fans an opportunity to
wear Mugler for the first time, and he sees great meaning in the chance to be a part of that.
“This is going to have so much more visibility than Mugler does itself,” he says. H&M agrees.
“The idea with collaborations is to offer customers a designed piece they maybe couldn’t
afford any other way,” says creative advisor Ann-Sophie Johansson.
The success of the 109-piece collection—which comes out next month and includes
womenswear, menswear, and accessories—hinged on being able to re-create the high-quality fabrics and meticulous attention to detail that go into Mugler’s architectural silhouettes
on a much larger scale. It was Cadwallader’s biggest concern, and something he felt increasingly assured of as he went further along in the design process with H&M. The company’s
greater production capacity and broader ability to source materials allowed the line to
maintain the brand’s integrity at a more accessible price. “A lot of the fabrics are the same
ones that I use. And in some cases they’ve been developed to be more sustainable or to go
for a better price without giving up on the technicalities, which has been so nice,” he says.
Among the archival pieces Cadwallader included was an update of Mugler’s 1981 Vampire
dress, a cocktail number that was worn by Dua Lipa on Saturday Night Live and seen on
HBO’s Euphoria. “It’s so much about the body as a sculpture,” he says.
Production methods weren’t the only adjustments to be made in order to welcome
slightly less adventurous dressers into the
world of Mugler. Many of his designs “are
so bold that they push the edge of wearability, and I’m very happy and
proud to do that. But with this
collaboration, I knew where
to control things and where to
rein it in,” Cadwallader says.
That meant creating pieces with a bit more coverage
and pared-back details. “It
was about thinking about how
to keep the essence but simplify things for more mass appeal
and accessibility, where people
wouldn’t be put off. In fashion
circles, you can make the craziest
thing and everyone’s like, ‘Let’s give
it a try.’ But I want someone who
doesn’t know what Mugler is to
see it and be like, ‘I can wear this.’”
—ADRIENNE GAFFNEY

LEFT: LOOKS FROM THE COLLABORATION. ABOVE:
A LOOK FROM MUGLER’S FALL 1995 SHOW.

FA LL 199 5 MUGLER MODE L: P HOTO GRAP HE D BY ERIC ROB ERT/SYGMA /
GE T T Y IMAGES; REMA INING IM AGE S: COURT ESY OF TH E D ESIGNE R.

hen Manfred Thierry
Mugler passed away
last year, he was in
the early stages of a
new project. A collaboration with H&M—
one that will bring the ultra-viral,
outré brand to a wider audience—was
one of the last things the iconic designer worked on with Casey Cadwallader,
Mugler’s creative director. “It was so
great that we knew that he wanted to do
it and that he was so excited about it. That
gave us something to have in our hearts.
We wanted to do this really well for him,”
the youthful and energetic Cadwallader,
a New Hampshire native, says during an
interview at a Paris showroom.
When Mugler first made a splash in
the ’80s and ’90s, his shows were filled
with statuesque and often boundarybreaking models: Grace Jones, Connie
Fleming, Naomi Campbell. His casting was a move forward for fashion in
terms of race, age, and gender expression, and strikingly innovative for its
time. Cadwallader, who became creative director in 2017, has seen interest
in Mugler skyrocket in recent years and
understands the outsize role the brand
plays in pop culture today. Clients like
Cardi B, Kim Kardashian, and Beyoncé
have helped Mugler’s sexy and avantgarde looks become recognizable worldwide. (Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, an
exhibition of Mugler’s work, is currently
on view at the Brooklyn Museum.)

Meet me in Paris

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Front Row

In the

LOOP

antamanto Market, a secondhand exchange
in Accra, Ghana, has piles of clothing taller
than the people walking through it. When
the wind picks up, T-shirts whirl around the
seemingly endless rows of clothes, most of
which have been discarded and donated from
Canada, the United States, and Europe.
It’s impossible to know the exact amount of clothing in the
world, but between social media hauls, overwhelmed secondhand markets, and textile-burdened landfills, all signs indicate
that we have too much. Still, more than 100 billion new pieces
are created every year, and many will meet the same sad fate as
those flying T-shirts. That’s why the call for a circular fashion
industry is getting louder than ever.
Circularity is “the concept that we can produce goods that
cause no harm to the planet in manufacturing and that all parts
can be reused, with no virgin resource extraction at the start,”
explains Rachel Kibbe, CEO and founder of consulting service
Circular Services Group, adding that it’s an ideal and not a solid set of standards. “It means striving to produce with as little
harm to people and the planet as possible,” she says. Circularity
takes the goal beyond sustainability, meaning that every moment along the way, from the beginning of the loop (the way
a garment is produced) to the end of an item’s life (how it will
be recycled or repurposed, starting the cycle again), must be
thought out in advance by brands.
Long before “reduce/reuse/recycle” was a constant refrain,
circularity was prized in Indigenous cultures, whose people

K

48

thought about the life cycles of objects and how they could reduce harm to the environment. While the concept isn’t new,
nor even a solution for clothing waste alone, there is a unique
opportunity in fashion. For starters, there is already a popular
structure that is an integral part of circularity, which thousands
of us use regularly: resale. E-commerce platforms like ThredUP,
Poshmark, and Depop have extended the lives of millions of
items. Alexander McQueen and Gucci have linked up with
third-party resellers Vestiaire Collective and The RealReal, respectively, to encourage customers to keep products in the loop.
Some labels, like Oscar de la Renta, have done this on their own,
launching brand-specific resale platforms to keep the pieces out
of landfills and donation bins.
There’s also the fact that many textiles, unlike plastic, can
be broken down and made new over and over. “The ideal future state of circularity is fiber-to-fiber recycled garments—e.g.,
turning cotton shirts back into cotton yarn that can be used to
make new garments,” says Stuart Ahlum, cofounder of sneaker
brand Thousand Fell and recycling program SuperCircle. With
SuperCircle, customers can download a shipping label and mail
in their used garments, which will then be broken down into
new fiber. (Brands like Reformation have begun using this technology to lessen the environmental impact of their clothing.)
Despite these advancements, there is still a significant
shift that has to happen with anyone making new clothes.
Nemanthie Kooragamage, director of group sustainable business at MAS Holdings, a manufacturer of brands like Patagonia
and Lululemon, explains, “For anything to be truly circular, the
product must be designed for reuse.” Designers could tap technology like QR codes and blockchain to allow digital tracing of a
product’s entire life cycle, identifying knots in the supply chain
and keeping brands accountable. And they could encourage
resale before a garment is made, by using textiles and design
practices that are easier to break down or upcycle.
So what can shoppers do to contribute to fashion’s new
circular model? Outside of reselling clothes, most circularity
advocates agree that it boils down to this: “Make fewer purchases,” Kibbe says. “If someone decides to purchase an item,
whether it’s used or new, they should love it enough to pass it
on to another person when it no longer serves them.”

COURTESY OF THE SMITHSONIAN AMERICAN ART MUSEUM, GENE YOUNG,
C ORRIN E R IL EY, A ND T HE BA RBA RA COF FEY Q UILT E ND OWM EN T.

Fashion’s biggest buzzword
right now is circularity.
What would it take to actually make
that happen? By Alyssa Hardy

Front Row

LONE
STAR

or my generation, Texas
was such a charming
place,” says Brunello
Cucinelli, who grew
up watching Westerns
filmed in Europe and
directed by Italians. “When we thought
of America, we thought of Texas and of
Sergio Leone films with Clint Eastwood.
And then, of course, came Dallas.”
It’s been 20 years since the Italian
designer inked his first deal with the
Dallas-headquartered Neiman Marcus,
and during those two decades, the retailer and Cucinelli have worked together to
provide exclusive offerings to discerning customers. This month, Cucinelli
drops perhaps his most ambitious capsule collection yet, appropriately dubbed
Icon, on the heels of receiving this year’s
Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished
Service in the Field of Fashion.

F

“WHAT A GREAT
HONOR. I WANTED
TO CREATE
SOMETHING
SPECIAL TO MARK
THE OCCASION.”
–Brunello Cucinelli
50

“When [Neiman Marcus CEO]
Geoffroy van Raemdonck asked
to have a call with me, I was a bit
nervous and worried that we had
done something wrong,” jokes
Cucinelli, who is receiving the first
such award since 2016 (past recipients include Yves Saint Laurent
and Carolina Herrera). “But what
TOP LEFT: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI. ABOVE: LOOKS FROM
a great honor. I wanted to create
HIS NEIMAN MARCUS EXCLUSIVE ICON CAPSULE.
something special to mark the occasion.” That he did, working alongside his daughters Carolina, co–creative director and
co-president, and Camilla, co-head of the women’s style team, to create a collection that
pays tribute to both the heritage of the department store and his Italianissimo aesthetic.
The 50-piece capsule includes several limited-edition and numbered hand-knits that are
sure to be snapped up by collectors (so loyal are his clients that one individual purchased
the designer’s full Muse of the West collection, his previous capsule for Neiman’s). Also
notable: separates featuring Cucinelli’s signature Monili trim in gold.
“Having had a relationship with Brunello for 20 years, I know that he knows what
our client wants,” says Neiman Marcus president and chief merchandising officer Lana
Todorovich. “He’s known for his knitwear, and this collection is really about what’s iconic,
hence the name.” To mark the occasion, the retailer will be hosting events (details to be
announced) throughout the year in Paris, Dallas, and Los Angeles.
For the campaign photo shoot, Cucinelli, always the philosopher, chose the old
Roman port of Ostia Antica. “We wanted to show an immortal place in terms of history,
in order to pay tribute to Neiman Marcus and its century-plus in business,” Cucinelli
says. “It is an immortal brand for fashion.” He also sees the project as a gift to the States,
which played a large part in building his brand (according to Cucinelli, 35 percent of his
business comes from North America), and as a means to restoring Solomeo, the medieval hamlet that serves as HQ for all things Cucinelli.
“Brunello transcends fashion,” Todorovich says. “This award is also an acknowledgment of his lifelong dedication to humanistic capitalism, sustainability, and environment.”
The feelings are certainly mutual: As Cucinelli says, “What I can vouch for is that Neiman
Marcus is the most beautiful department store in the world.”—NAOMI ROUGEAU

C UCINE LLI: COURT ESY O F T HE SUBJE CT; MO DELS: P HOTOG RA P HE D BY GAVIN BOND.

Brunello Cucinelli whips
up an exclusive collection for
Neiman Marcus.

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IT L I ST

Restyle your beauty
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colors, makeup, and
a new exhibit.

Whether your hair is long,
short, or something in
between, hairstyles are a
choice—and a statement
of self-expression. Des
cheveux et des poils (“Hair
and Hairs”), a new exhibit
in Paris’s Musée des
Arts Décoratifs, looks at
hairstyles through the
ages, starting from the 15th
century, examining their
connection to identity, art,
class, and gender. There
are 600 pieces on display,
including elaborate hair
sculptures, Afros, pixie cuts,
and even a hairy chest
or two—plus a feature on
Léonard Autier, Marie
Antoinette’s favorite
hairdresser. (madparis.fr,
April 5–September 17)

2

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Hou, Beauty Director
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NORDSTROM.COM

“As the weather gets warmer,
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“Finally, a fragrance my fiancé
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Beauty Editor
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“I’d like to start a petition to
make deep lip colors a
warm-weather trend. This
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when paired with pastels, and
the soft formula wears
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“These Dior polishes cater to
every mood: stormy blues,
sunset tangerines, and a fierce
glam gold. Smooth application,
quick drying, and always easier
than booking an appointment.”
—Tatjana Freund, Beauty
E-Commerce Writer

C OURTESY O F T HE BR A NDS.

I T L I ST

no digital
distortion

new

Let’s Change Beauty

T H E 2023

Green
Beauty
Stars
ELLE’s editors convene every year to shine a bright,

solar-powered light on a new set of Green Beauty Stars. This
year’s winners are sustainable standouts, so we can
all spritz, lather, and swipe with a little more peace of mind.
BY E R I CA SM I T H

56

M ODE L: PHOTOGRAP HE D BY RH YS FR A MPTON/ T RUN K A RCH IVE .

Beauty

GR EEN STARS

Beauty

Leveling Up

THE FOREST STONE
BY KATE MCLEOD

C OURTESY O F T HE BR A NDS.

Refillable, Reusable
Receptacles
Brands are creating carefully crafted containers designed to live
on your shelves instead of landfills. It’s hard not to get hooked on
Tata Harper Skincare’s Restorative Eye Crème, a plumping formula that makes eyes look less tired. Thankfully, there’s a good
contingency plan for when you run out: Both the starter receptacle’s pod ($130) and the refill pods ($110 each) contain 96 pumps’
worth of the formula (tataharperskincare.com). Kate McLeod’s
Forest Stone is a palm-size orb of cocoa butter and plant-based oil,
which melt with body heat to become a silky yuzu-and-woodsyscented body moisturizer. The “stone” comes packaged in recyclable paper and a reusable (and compostable) bamboo canister, and
you can purchase refills online ($45; katemcleod.com). Irene Forte
Skincare Apricot Penta-Acid Face Polish ($110; ireneforteskincare
.com) contains a blend of physical and chemical exfoliants, including wheat bran and red grape skin, made from upcycled
materials from Northern Italy. The glass jar is refillable, and the
refill component is also recyclable (with a prepaid shipping label
to UK waste management company First Mile), which gives it a
second life. The new perfumes from La Bouche Rouge come in
five scents: Rose, Nude, Ambre, Rouge, and Bleu. Thirty percent
of the ingredients are derived from upcycled raw materials, and
each scent comes in a glass spray bottle ($195 each). Refills ($95
each) are packaged in 100 percent upcycled aluminum tubes, a
first in the fragrance industry (laboucherougeparis.com).

Innovative
Ingredients
Brands are in the lab to find
safer, more sustainable substitutes for problematic ingredients. Palm oil, for instance, has been linked to deforestation, greenhouse gas
emissions, unfair labor practices, and wildlife endangerment. The self-explanatory
Palmless Save the F@#%ing
Rainforest Nourishing Oil
($45; gopalmless.com) is instead powered by torula oil, a
multipurpose, novel oil that’s
created in a lab. Vegamour’s
Hydr-8 Collection (from $34;
vegamour.com) contains
Karmatin, the brand’s vegan
silk keratin and silicone alternative, formulated to help
repair damage and fight frizz.

Gold, er, green stars to companies that are going the extra mile for the earth. Aveda
(aveda.com) has earned
Certified B Corporation
accreditation—the gold
standard for social and environmental impact policies. Babor Beauty Group
(us.babor.com) has been
climate-neutral since 2020
and is taking further steps by
planting trees in the Babor
forest, adding only energyefficient buildings, and
powering its HQ entirely
with green electricity. Costa
Brazil (livecostabrazil.com)
is helping protect thousands
of acres in the Amazon, the
rain forest that inspired
founder Francisco Costa. A
percentage of proceeds from
sales from certain collaborations goes to Conservation
International, a nonprofit
that has planted more than
60,000 trees in partnership
with the brand. For skin care
brand Hanahana Beauty
(hanahanabeauty.com), being
truly sustainable is also about
helping people sustain themselves. The brand’s Circle of
Care arm completed its sixth
annual health care day in
Tamale, Ghana, taking care of
the community that produces
and farms shea butter—the
brand’s star ingredient—by
providing families with medical checkups and medications. Ilia Beauty (iliabeauty
.com) encourages customers
to recycle beauty empties via
prepaid shipping labels addressed to Pact, a nonprofit
collective that helps process
materials for reuse. Ilia makes
up 30 percent of all Pactcollected donations.
59

Beauty

G REEN STARS

HANAHANA
BEAUTY

Next-Gen
Aerosols

PlanetFriendly
Packaging
Half Magic’s Eyeshadow
Singles ($12; halfmagic
beauty.com) are straightforward: Toss the outer packaging, made of plastic-free
PaperFoam, into your recycling bin or compost. Lys
Beauty’s No Limits Cream
Bronzer Stick ($20; lysbeauty
.com) has impressively intense colors in partially recycled tubes, which come in
Forest Stewardship Council–
certified cartons. Amsterdambased Bloomeffects is the
first in the U.S. to use PICEA,
a sustainable material made
from renewable resources,
like sawdust from carpentry
workshops. The new travelfriendly version of its classic
Royal Tulip Cleansing Jelly
($29; bloomeffects.com) can
go into the recycling bin.
60

Magic
Beans

Much Less Waste

beans—are replacing plastic
components in unexpected
ways. For starters, they’ve
been remade into hairbrush
bristles in Tangle Teezer’s
The Plant Brush ($18;
tangleteezer.com). Exa ten18
Lash Amplifying Mascara
($24; exabeauty.com) has
a bean-derived, hourglassshaped brush that’s designed
to grip and coat eyelashes.
You’ll also find castor beans in
the brushes of Harry Styles’s
Pleasing Polishes nail colors;
the new Pollinators collection drops this spring (from
$20; pleasing.com).

pletely waste- and plastic-free. The capsules deliver the perfect
amount of serum, leaving no visible trace (other than your now
less-stressed-out skin). The waterless Good Juju Moisturizing
Shave Bar ($15; hellogoodjuju.com) replaces up to five cans of
shaving cream, which means you get the same shave-friendly
slip, sans all the landfill waste. Bakel’s revolutionary 3D-printed
Jalu-3D patches ($250 for 40; bakelskincare.com) are made of
micro stripes of pure hyaluronic acid, in a concentration that’s
10 times higher than the typical formulas found in bottles. In a
rarity for eye patches, many of which are made of silicone or
biocellulose, the film coating is 100 percent compostable and
the packaging itself is also recyclable. The makers of Krave
Beauty’s Makeup Re-Wined Transforming Jelly Oil Cleanser
($25; kravebeauty.com) are the first to admit that the production
of their unique, jiggly oil cleanser was “a nightmare,” with multiple sample iterations that didn’t quite measure up. Instead of
tossing them, the brand decided to come clean and sell “Pilot”
versions at a discounted price.

N AIL P OLISH SP ILL: DEVON JA RVI S/STUDI O D ; R EMAI NING IMAGE S: COURT ESY OF T HE B RAND S.

Fekkai Clean Stylers Sheer
Dry Shampoo ($26; fekkai
.com) has an invisible, oilabsorbing formula powered by Honeywell’s Solstice
Propellant, an aerosol technology that can help cut carbon dioxide emissions by 99
percent compared to traditional propellants. Vacation
Classic Spray SPF 50 ($19;
vacation.inc) may be a throwback to kitschier times, but
the formula hits your skin via
cutting-edge technology—a
bag-on-valve mechanism
that separates air from product, so it only emits a cloud
of earth-friendly SPF instead of a mix of aerosol and
ozone-damaging chemicals.

FRESH NEW LOOK
SAME GREAT POISE

We know how to keep things fresh. That’s why the product you
love is getting a new look coming soon. What’s not changing?
Poise still keeps you 10x drier* than the leading period pad.
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®Registered trademark of Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. © KCWW

Beauty

Amanda Gorman
Writes Poetry
in
the
Bath
How the first National Youth Poet
Laureate practices self-care.

On her morning ritual
“I am an insomniac. I am also the person whose
alarm is on her phone, who rolls over, turns it off,
and then is on some Safari web page within five
seconds. But when I wake up, I try to meditate.
While I’m brushing my teeth or flossing, I do some
basic stretches. It forces me to rethink and to say,
‘Okay, your phone is in your hand, but let’s use it
to play relaxing music or a guided meditation,’ and
approach it as an instrument to find that grounded
space, as opposed to the phone using me.
“For my skin, I love Estée Lauder Advanced
Night Repair serum ($115; esteelauder.com). When
I wake up, it’s helped my skin repair during sleep.
I’ll use witch hazel or toner after washing to give
my skin the extra spark it needs to get up.”
On meditation
“I am learning. The metaphor that’s used most often by meditation teachers, and one that I appreciate, is that our minds are like skies and thoughts are
like clouds. If I don’t meditate, the clouds build and
build and build until they kind of block out light
and it’s dim and gray. When I meditate, it rewires
my brain to practice mindfulness. I start noticing
the clouds, but also allow them to move on and create more space for sky and light and breeze. If anything, it teaches me to notice and be aware, without
judgment, of the thoughts that pass through my
mindscape, without being beholden to them.”
62

On rejecting negative thoughts
“To do so actually draws on a few traits that I’ve
learned from meditation. If I’m having negative
thoughts, the first thing I can do is recognize that
I’m possessing them and also to see them as just
thoughts. Negative opinions or notions of myself
aren’t facts or reality. I get to choose how much
of that I absorb and internalize. Days when I find
it especially hard to practice body positivity are
also when I’m physically not feeling the best. I
love body positivity, but it isn’t always accessible to me 24/7, 100 percent of the time. I try to at
least practice body neutrality, which is the idea of
‘witnessing’ my body (I learned the word from
the wellness fitness program the Be.come Project,
founded by Bethany C. Meyers, who I love from
afar). If I can’t do it with celebration, I can at least
do it with non-judgment and non-reactivity—to
meet my body and my beauty where it is, and
have that be enough.”
On self-care
“I’m always trying to explore and play with new
ways for that. I love taking baths when I can.
The mammalian diving reflex, the body’s response to having cold water on the face, can help
automatically lower your heart rate and slow your
breathing. I started improvising poetry couplets
as I take baths. I say my couplets out loud. I kind
of think of them as spells. Honestly. I love witchy
stuff. I spend so much of my time writing my poems down and having them be presentable or
product-worthy. Just having them in the air and
repeating them—love it, love it for me.
“It lets me have this ritual that is in touch with
my body, but also speaks to and services my mind,
which is a poetic one, which often is creating
language—but instead to marshal that to create
language and mantras that are healing, and that
have some intentionality to them. That’s my own
spin on self-care.”

GOR MA N ’S
FAVORI TES

ESTÉE LAUDER DOUBLE
WEAR STAY-IN-PLACE MAKEUP,
$48, ESTEELAUDER.COM

“It lasts all day, which I need
in my life! And the shade
range represents a rainbow
that I belong in.”

THAYERS WITCH HAZEL
ROSE PETAL FACIAL TONER,
$11, THAYERS.COM

“I love to use this in the
morning—I feel rejuvenated
and ready to start the day.”

ESTÉE LAUDER PURE
COLOR ENVY COLOR
REPLENISH LIP BALM, $36,
ESTEELAUDER.COM

“I always have a lip balm with
me. I also like to add a little to
my eyelids and cheeks.”

C OURTESY O F T HE BR A NDS.

AMANDA GORMAN is a poet, an activist, a lover of
hair accessories—and also a domino. “When I
decide to do a partnership or some type of work
with an organization or brand, the question I ask
is, ‘How can we knock down as many dominoes
as possible just by flicking one?’” she says. And
so when Estée Lauder approached her, Gorman
didn’t become a face of the brand—she became
a Global Changemaker, an exclusive title created just for her. It has allowed her not only to talk
about her favorite beauty products but also to
create Writing Change, a $3 million, three-year
initiative that grants funds to promote equitable
access to literacy. Here, Gorman talks to ELLE
about practicing body neutrality, cloudy skies in
her meditation practice, and how she’s rewired
her brain.—KATHLEEN HOU

NEW

no digital
distortion

Shrooms Are
theBye,New
Cali
Sober
wine. It’s mushroom time.

’d sunk into the couch
for a “wine” down with
my girlfriends. We’d
typically share a bottle
(or two) of red, but this
time, instead of wine,
I saw a rainbow Willy Wonka–esque
shroom chocolate bar on my friend’s coffee table. Under nutritional info, the label
said, in part, “INGREDIENTS: GOOD
TIMES & LAUGHTER.”
Amused by the packaging, I snapped
a pic and shared it to my Instagram
Stories. Within minutes, my DMs lit up
with hearts and messages. “Ze best! I’ve
been microdosing mushroom gummies
for the last year. Life-changing,” one
message read. “When I go out, I take
them over drinking. I have more fun, I’m
giggly…[there’s] no hangover. I wake up
feeling happier and more energized—
never anxious or depressed. I’ve gotten

I

64

probably 15 of my friends on it and they
all agree, it’s an easy way to cut down or
cut out drinking altogether.” Had morel
support become the new Aperol Spritz?
Back in 2015, the Global Drug Survey
found that 8.6 percent of respondents
had used magic mushrooms. By 2020,
this number had nearly doubled to 16.1
percent. But most aren’t tripping out;
rather, they are microdosing—ingesting
very small amounts (roughly 0.1 to 0.3
grams)—which likely won’t trigger hallucinations, but can give a burst of energy,
boost mood and creativity, and make the
world feel like it’s in high-def. “Shrooms
make you happy and you have a good
time—it’s not like alcohol, where you’re
always needing more and chasing the
buzz,” says a West Coast hairstylist, who
started selling mushrooms about a year
ago. “Most of my customers are young,
female, working professionals like me.”

Scientific research on microdosing
remains limited. “At this time, there is
no strong empirical support for [microdosing’s] effectiveness,” says Harriet de
Wit, PhD, professor of psychiatry and behavioral neuroscience at the University
of Chicago. But Julie Holland, MD, a psychiatrist and author of Good Chemistry,
says when compared to alcohol, the benefits are clear: Magic mushrooms are
anti-inflammatory, promote neuroplasticity, are nontoxic to the liver and brain
(aka no hangovers), and are not particularly addictive. But, she notes, shrooms
are still illegal in 49 of 50 states, experiences can be influenced by the setting or
mood, and it can be harder to stay safe if
you are, for example, “distracted by beautiful traffic lights.”
Although adverse effects do appear
to be rare, reports indicate there is evidence that microdosing can damage
the heart over time. According to the
2021 Global Drug Survey, more than 77
percent of respondents who had microdosed mushrooms in the last year reported no unwanted effects. As of January 1,
Oregon became the first state to legalize
adult use of psilocybin, the hallucinogenic compound in magic mushrooms;
a similar law takes effect in Colorado in
2024. But don’t expect to see shroom
dispensaries anytime soon. These new
laws don’t allow for retail sales, only onsite consumption in a supervised setting
with certified facilitators.
In the meantime, the mushroom
black market is happy to fill in the void.
In addition to gummies and chocolates,
you can find shrooms freeze-dried, as
teas, or as capsules. Even venture capital firms have taken notice and are funneling money into start-ups developing
psychedelic treatments—that aren’t even
legal yet—for PTSD and smoking cessation, headaches, traumatic brain injury,
eating disorders, and Alzheimer’s disease. “I take it before the gym because
it gives me energy,” says a microdosing
business owner and mother in Southern
California. She says that before shrooms,
alcohol was “the biggest crutch,” her
go-to after a hard day. “Now, with mushrooms, my mind doesn’t even go there.
Okay, I’ve had a hard day? I’m gonna
go home and take a bath and go to bed
so I can wake up and go to the gym.”
And there are other perks, too, she
adds, laughing: “I swear, if my kids ask,
‘Do you wanna craft?’ I’m like, ‘No.’
But then I’ll eat some mushrooms and
suddenly I’m Martha fucking Stewart.”
—KELLY MICKLE

B LE WIT (LOND O N) (2 02 0 ) BY P HYL LIS MA .

Wellness

P E RS PE C T I VE S

E LLE 20 23

WOMEN
of
IMPACT
Power means nothing if you don’t use it
to better your world. The 14 dynamic women
here span industries, continents, and
generations, but they are each making their
mark on the future in a big way.

UK R AI NE

Olena
Zelenska

ZELE NSKA: PAUL BE LL AA RT/T RUNK ARCH IVE ; BAST IDA: JUL IE T W O LF; VE LE Z : SEA N
ZA NNI/ PAT RICK MCMUL L A N/GE T T Y I MAGES.

For being a bright
light for her country in
a time of darkness.
Before her husband was
elected president of Ukraine
in 2019, Olena Zelenska
studied architecture and
was a comedy writer. As
First Lady, her focus shifted
to school nutrition reform,
gender equality, and organizing an international
summit of First Ladies
and Gentlemen.
In February of last year,
when Russia invaded
Ukraine, she pivoted once
again, advocating for her
people on the global stage,
spearheading rehabilitation projects, and working
to project strength and empathy. She’s absorbed countless
stories of tragedy, each more
harrowing than the last, but
these stories are what propel
her forward, she says.
“In a local hospital, a
Ukrainian mother met four
children whose father was
killed during Russian shellings. He had raised them
alone, and now they lost him
as well. So this young mother of two children took in
four more,” Zelenska says.
“This story reflects Ukraine
and its women. They
respond to losses and grief
by expressing love and
doing good. When you see
a Ukrainian woman somewhere in the world, remember what she stands for.
She is a person from a country fighting for its life and
knows the value of it like no
other. Our current experience is how we influence
others, but I would not wish
anyone to become a hero at
the price we all pay.”
—MELISSA GIANNINI

CL I MAT E

Xiye Bastida

For rallying her generation to protect our planet.
When Xiye Bastida was 13, her family had plans to move to the United States from their
small Mexican town of San Pedro Tultepec. But the day before their flight, rainfall
flooded their drought-weary town. They escaped, but the experience stayed with her:
“I remember the pain of leaving without knowing what happened,” Bastida says.
Young people have emerged as the leaders of today’s climate movement, and Bastida
has been at the forefront, leading the first big student climate strike in NYC when she was
17 and a year later cofounding Re-Earth Initiative, a youth-led organization that supports
communities dealing with environmental restoration. She is also a junior at the University
of Pennsylvania, majoring in environmental studies. “I realized I couldn’t wait to grow up
to do something about the climate crisis,” she says. “The flood in my hometown helped me
come to the conclusion that the climate crisis is happening now.”—MELISSA GIANNINI

FASH ION

Elena Velez
For bringing the Rust Belt to the front row.
The daughter of a single mom who was a ship’s captain on
the Great Lakes, designer Elena Velez says her “childhood
spaces were docks and engine rooms.” Her pieces are
at once delicate, melting onto the body like wax, and built
Ford tough with metallic hardware. Incorporating her
Rust Belt roots came from “not seeing my tribe” in fashion, says Velez, who won the CFDA American Emerging
Designer of the Year Award. Now she hopes to create a
coworking space in her hometown, Milwaukee, to produce
her collection and those of other brands who find New
York and L.A. too expensive. “The need to be in one physical
space doesn’t exist anymore,” she says. “I’m trying to be
a pioneer of that future.”—VÉRONIQUE HYLAND

PE RS PE CT I V E S | W OM E N O F I M PACT

ACT IVI SM

Amanda Nguyen
For standing up for sexual assault survivors all over the world.
When Amanda Nguyen was a senior at Harvard, she was raped in her dorm. The injustice
she felt after discovering her rape kit could be destroyed after only six months, and the
trauma of going through the criminal justice system, prompted her to create Rise, a civil
rights organization that has helped pass more than 65 laws, including the federal Sexual
Assault Survivors’ Bill of Rights, which requires that rape kits be preserved for up to 20 years
and guarantees medical examinations, among other rights. In 2022, after six years of
lobbying by Nguyen and Rise, the United Nations passed the first worldwide resolution that
recognizes the needs of sexual assault survivors as human rights during peacetime.
Activism fuels her days, but Nguyen’s delight for life, curiosity for worlds beyond Earth
(she is also an astronaut candidate!), and perpetual hope buoy her. “You see that change is
possible,” says Nguyen, who was nominated for the 2019 Nobel Peace Prize. “You’re able to
win over this committee vote, move this bill forward. You don’t have to have courage for
the entire journey. You just have to have courage for the next step.”—KATHLEEN HOU

BUS IN ESS

Arianna Huffington

For pushing us to rethink our workdays (and get some sleep).

EN T ERTA I NMENT

Keke Palmer

For using her megaphone to amplify new voices.
While filming the Jordan Peele horror film Nope, Keke
Palmer had an epiphany. “I started to feel like I had so much
to offer that I no longer wanted to hold it in,” she explains.
Since starting work at age nine, Palmer has established herself
as an actress, television host, producer, and singer; now,
the Emmy Award winner wants to turn her focus outward.
“I don’t love the concept of being ‘the only one,’” she says.
“I was trying to figure out how to channel everything that I’ve
learned in creating the Keke Palmer brand into something
that could reach far beyond me.” The result is KeyTV, a digital
network “for a new generation of creators.”
Palmer’s ultimate goal is to be able to democratize the entertainment industry while highlighting new and underrepresented voices. “Knowing what I know about how the industry
works, I felt like I could be of service to other people. I want
to educate and allow people to see themselves, not just in
front of the camera, but also in all of the different [behind-thescenes] roles that go into creating a movie or a TV show. We
could use a lot more young millennials, Gen Zers, and people
of color, especially when we talk about ownership and changing the kind of content that we see,” she says. “It starts from
being in those kinds of positions.”—JULIANA UKIOMOGBE

N GUYEN: CA MIL A FA LQUEZ /TRUNK ARC HI VE ; HU FFINGTON: G OTH A M/ GC/G ET T Y I MAG ES; PAL MER: DJEN EBA
ADUAYOM/AUGUST.

“I had stopped knowing what ‘fine’ was,” says Arianna Huffington of being diagnosed with burnout.
She began studying exhaustion and sleep deprivation, and decided she wanted to change behavior. In 2016, she launched Thrive Global to help people, companies, and communities improve their
well-being and, in turn, their work performance. As a board member for several start-ups, she’s not
only a business and tech-industry power broker but an advocate for creating a stronger safety net for
women, calling for paid family leave and closing the gender wage gap. “I’m devoting my life to
helping people see that burnout is not the price you have to pay for success.”—MELISSA GIANNINI

SPO RTS

Allyson Felix

FELIX: ERIK CA RTER; RATA JKOWSKI: SEBASTIAN KIM/AUGUST; WA LTON:
A DA M A MENGUA L.

For blazing a new path
for moms and athletes.
In 2019, a year after giving
birth to her first daughter,
Allyson Felix, now the
most decorated track and
field Olympian in history,
went public when her
sponsor Nike offered her a
contract that would cut her
pay by 70 percent—which
felt to her like a punishment
for having a child. “I
was terrified to speak out,”
Felix recalls, “but I was also
overwhelmed with support
from people who could relate. It was encouraging, but
also heartbreaking, because
so many women had been
through something similar.”
Nike soon announced
a new policy guaranteeing
an athlete’s pay around
pregnancy, but for Felix it
was too late. “I walked
away,” she says. After venting
to her brother Wes, he suggested that they create their
own shoe company. “It was
an opportunity to create
change ourselves instead of
asking somebody else to
do it,” she explains. In 2020,
the footwear company
Saysh was born. “We want
to try to push the industry
and say women deserve
better,” Felix says. One way
she’s doing this is through
Saysh’s maternity return
policy. For every customer
who becomes pregnant,
Saysh will send a free pair of
sneakers in a new size of their
choosing. “It is a small way to
say to mothers, ‘We see you.’”
—JULIANA UKIOMOGBE

CULTURE

Emily Ratajkowski

For speaking her mind and knowing her worth.
You may have heard that Emily Ratajkowski is in her bitch era. So far it has looked like this:
off-the-cuff TikToks, a healthy post-split dating life, and a new, uncensored persona frequently showcased on her podcast, High Low with EmRata. That wasn’t always the case.
Ratajkowski used to be more concerned about how she was perceived. When her debut
essay collection, My Body, came out, “I was like, please God, let the world give a shit about
my brain,” she says. Then something cracked open: She’d had enough with being tempered,
tame, media-trained. “I’ve stopped caring so much,” Ratajkowski says. “I’ve accepted what
I can and can’t control, and found joy in things that I can. And the podcast is one of them.”
She’s drawn to guests “who are easily written off,” she says. Even in a post-#MeToo world,
there are women we underestimate: the bimbos, the sluts, the Valley girls. Changing that
perception, Ratajkowski says, “has become a real motivator for me.”—VÉRONIQUE HYLAND

ART

Alice Walton

For getting art out of storage and into the world.
Alice Walton is a different kind of philanthropist, a former
ranch owner who’s been known to bid on world-class artworks
while sitting astride a horse. The world’s second-richest
woman, according to Forbes’s 2022 list, and a daughter of
Walmart founder Sam Walton, Walton is a subtle but major
force in the art world. Her Bentonville, Arkansas, Crystal
Bridges Museum of American Art, which opened in 2011, has
become a key cultural destination in the region. She has also
grown the Art Bridges Foundation, which encourages museums to get artworks out of storage and on display. “Everyone
deserves access to art, and in small to midsize communities
across the country, access has often been limited,” Walton says.
“Let’s make art available to everyone!”—ADRIENNE GAFFNEY
69

P E RSP ECT I V E S | WO ME N O F I MPACT

ACT IVI S M

Oriaku
Njoku

P OL IT I CS

Gretchen Whitmer

For leading boldly in challenging times.
When Governor Gretchen Whitmer’s mom was a Michigan assistant attorney general, she
put on a fuchsia blazer to wear to court. “Someone in the office said, ‘Sherry, you can’t wear
fuchsia to court,’” Whitmer says, noting that few women worked in the attorney general’s
office back in those days. “I’ll never forget hearing how she looked him dead-on and said,
‘Fuchsia is my power color.’ Then she went to court and knocked it out of the ballpark.”
Many days during Whitmer’s first term as governor of Michigan required that she
channel the mettle instilled in her by her foremothers. She led her state through the pandemic, climate emergencies, and the overturning of Roe v. Wade. She stayed strong during
attacks from then-president Donald Trump and the arrest of 13 men charged with orchestrating a plot to kidnap her that the FBI said was part of an attempt to overthrow the
state government. “With challenge, you find out what you’re made of, and that’s where the
growth happens,” Whitmer says. “So I would say the last four years have been hard, and
I also would say that there’s good value that’s come from it.” People often ask her how she
handled it all, and she points to when she was a newly elected state legislator with a
newborn, caring for her own mother, who was dying of brain cancer. “That period really
forged me,” she says. “It gave me the ability to not get distracted by the noise.”
That skill may serve Whitmer well as everyone watches to see how she will wield the
Democratic majority the midterm elections handed her party in the state legislature. “We
flipped both chambers; it was a really incredible thing. It’s only happened four times in
130 years in Michigan,” she says. “But with that comes an immense responsibility to show
that when Democrats lead, we make people’s lives better.” As Whitmer works to accomplish her goals, she’ll have the support of her fellow Democratic women governors, whose
numbers are increasing (yes, they have a group chat). And, as always, she’ll lean on the
lessons instilled in her by the strong women who raised her: When she was sworn in for
a second term in January, she wore a bright fuchsia coat.—KAYLA WEBLEY ADLER
70

Oriaku Njoku has worked
in reproductive health,
rights, and justice for nearly 10 years, but not much
could prepare them for what
happened last May. The day
after the leak of a Supreme
Court opinion signaled the
overturning of Roe v. Wade,
Njoku was offered a job
leading the National
Network of Abortion Funds,
a network of nearly 100
grassroots organizations
that remove barriers for patients by helping them pay
for abortions, as well as
the things needed to access
the procedure: transportation, housing, and more.
“I was like—,” they take a
pause, and their voice jumps
an octave: “This is wild.”
Post-Roe, abortion funds
are more essential than ever,
as patients navigate legal
and logistical minefields; as
of this writing, 13 states have
a near-total ban on abortion.
Njoku isn’t daunted. “I just
knew: This is next-level,”
they say. “Our responsibility
is to support our members
to fund abortions and build
power for a future where all
of us can experience reproductive justice and our collective liberation. I believe
it’s going to happen. But
it’s going to take time, and
it’s going to take regulardegular-ass people. It’s going to take all of us.”
—MADISON FELLER

W HIT MER: J ULIA P ICKET T; NJ O KU: P IE RA MO ORE ; A L INE JA D : HOSSEIN FATE MI/PA N OS P ICT URES/RE DUX; GRAU L AU:
C OURTESY O F T HE SUBJE CT; P ELTOL A: AS H ADA MS/ T HE N EW YORK T IMES/ RE DUX .

For helping
patients get the health
care they need.

ACTI VI SM

Masih Alinejad

For fighting for the freedom of all Iranian women.
When Iranians took to the streets following the September death of Mahsa Amini, they
achieved something Iranian-American journalist Masih Alinejad had long wished to see:
crowds boldly standing up to the restrictive regime. Forced out of her home country in
2009, she was a world away, in Brooklyn—but felt no distance. “My body is here, but my
thoughts, my soul, my dreams, everything is in Iran,” Alinejad says. “The government
managed to kick me out of Iran, but they couldn’t manage to kick Iran out of me.”
The protesters’ demands echoed her long calls for an end to the country’s government’s
compulsory hijab policy. Nearly a decade ago, Alinejad urged women to shed their hijabs
and send videos and photos as proof. They flooded in. Amid the current protests, she has
helped amplify the voices of Iranian women. “We are fighting for women,” she says,
“because being a woman is a crime in Iran; for life, because having a normal life is a crime
in Iran; for freedom, because being free is a crime in Iran.”—ADRIENNE GAFFNEY

JOU RNAL I SM

Bianca Graulau

For sharing the struggles and joys of Puerto Rico.
In May 2022, journalist Bianca Graulau got a call from a producer working with Bad Bunny. She
had been gaining recognition through her TikToks on issues plaguing Puerto Rico, but had no idea
the reggaeton phenom was a fan. “I thought it was a prank,” Graulau says. With funding from Bad
Bunny’s record label, she and two dozen freelancers created Aquí Vive Gente (“People Live Here”), a
22-minute documentary on displacement, gentrification, and other issues that has since been viewed
on YouTube over 12 million times. “I hope I can capture a sliver of what it means to be Puerto Rican,”
Graulau says. “The struggles, the beauty, the hope, and the amazing spirit.”—KAYLA WEBLEY ADLER

P OL IT ICS

Mary Sattler Peltola

For being a voice for Native people in Congress.
It’ll be hard to top Representative Mary Sattler Peltola’s 49th
birthday. After months of campaigning—charming voters
with her meditation-app-worthy voice, pro-fish platform, and
salmon earrings—Peltola had been waiting to hear if she’d
made history. It was August 31 when she finally got the good
news: She had won Alaska’s special election, making her the
first Alaska Native ever elected to Congress and the first woman
to represent the state in the U.S. House. Alaskans hadn’t sent
a Democrat to the House in nearly 50 years.
Her presence as a proud Yup’ik Alaska Native brings Congress one step closer to being a truly representative body. Peltola, who wore a pair of traditional boots known as piilugguqs
to her swearing-in ceremony, is just surprised it’s taken this
long. “Alaska is full of Alaska Native leaders,” she notes. Even
so, Peltola’s background makes her a rarity in Washington, DC,
as does her approach. She’s courteous, committed to bipartisanship, and loath to attack her opponents. (Case in point: She
and Sarah Palin, one of the candidates she defeated for the seat,
are friends.) “If you come from a small place, you have to get
along with people,” she says. “For Alaska Natives, it’s a matter
of survival. There are so many things about the Arctic where
it doesn’t seem fit for human habitation. There’s a reason we
have existed and persisted and thrived.”—MADISON FELLER
71

W OM E N OF IM PAC T

ASHLEY BIDEN
KNOWS
WHO SHE IS

The First Daughter is using what
she’s learned from her own trauma to help
other women heal from theirs.
BY KAY L A W E B L EY A D L E R

f you know hardly anything about Ashley Biden, well then,
her efforts up until now have paid off. She is the only child of
President Joe Biden and First Lady Jill Biden—half sister to
Hunter and Beau—and she has deliberately kept a lower profile. But even though she’s here being interviewed by a national
magazine and has enlisted a well-connected publicist, Ashley
tells me at least a handful of times during our conversation that
she’s “never wanted to be in the public eye.” And she is clearly
anxious about the exposure now: “Yeah, I still don’t,” she adds.
But being the First Daughter comes with a certain amount
of pressure to use the platform handed to you. “It’s not like I’m
going to go and become a movie star,” she says. “But I think that
I kind of have an obligation in this position, if I can, to amplify
the issues and to talk about what truly, truly works.”
Ashley says she is telling her story not because she wants to
be in the spotlight, but because she wants to get the word out
about the lessons she’s learned from her years in social work—in
foster care, in juvenile detention, and, most recently, as the leader of a support group for formerly incarcerated women. “It took
about two years to get into the groove of being in this position,”
she says. “I’m doing my work as I always have been, but kind of
figuring out the role as First Daughter, and how can I use it in the
most positive way, where it’s not about me, it’s about Americans.
And what I’ve learned is, I want to tell the story of others—I
want to lift up organizations and share this information.”
It’s easy to understand why she would shy away from the
spotlight. “It’s gotten scary,” she says. “The violence is beyond
unacceptable. Everything that has happened in the past couple of years…it’s not my favorite part of it.” Not only has there
been a constant fire hose of vitriol aimed squarely at her family—generally by the right for…fairly winning an election?—but
Ashley herself has been a direct target. A diary of hers, left for
72

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W OM E N OF IM PAC T | AS HLE Y B ID EN

safekeeping in a Florida home, was stolen and sold to Project
Veritas, an organization known for hidden-camera videos often targeting liberals (two involved have pleaded guilty and
are awaiting sentencing). Add to that the obsession with her
brother Hunter (perhaps you’ve heard something about his
laptop?), and it can be hard to tune it all out. “I think it’s human
nature when anybody that you love dearly is attacked—wrong
stuff is out there that is just complete BS—it does anger you,”
Ashley says.
Her publicist says Ashley’s lawyers won’t let her talk about
the diary, as the investigation is ongoing. She’s done her best to
stay focused on her work amid all the noise. “I just wanted to
be in the community doing the work that I love,” she says. “My
life, other than having to be driven around in armored vehicles
by the Secret Service, there’s not a lot that’s very different. But
[the attention] has always been hard for me.”
shley and I meet on a sunny Wednesday
morning in January at the Kimpton Hotel
Monaco in Philadelphia, the same hotel
where she and Beau, who died in 2015 from
brain cancer, used to have breakfast every
Friday after his chemo treatments. Our conversation starts with her childhood in Wilmington, Delaware,
which she calls a “low-key” and “magical” time. As a kid, she
went with her dad on the campaign trail and remembers “canvassing neighborhoods, parades, and all of that,” but she didn’t
fully understand what was going on. “My family really did keep
it super down-to-earth so I didn’t know,” Ashley says. “I knew
Dad took the train and was trying to solve the problems of the
world. But as a little girl, he’s just Dad.” Joe famously took the
Amtrak home to Delaware every night, and Ashley says she
would run and greet him with a big hug. “I would tell him he
smelled like work because of the smell of his suit,” she recalls.
But before long, she got her first taste of the chatter that
would swirl around her for much of her life. “When I became
aware of it was when I would ride the bus to school, and people would talk about my father,” Ashley says. “The kids would
talk about what they would hear their parents say. And when
I would get on the bus, they would say things. Some of them
kind, some not so kind. And I remember thinking to myself,
‘How do they know my father? I don’t know their father.’ If
my family weren’t so close, it wouldn’t be so hard, but we are,”
Ashley adds. “My family is my safe space. So that was the hardest thing: I couldn’t understand how (a) things were said that
were not true, and (b) how people could be so cruel just because
of whether they liked my father or not. It had nothing to do
with me. And I just wanted to shy away from that. I didn’t find
it to be healthy for me. I wanted to do my work, know who I
was, and feel comfortable in my own skin without the hoopla.”
Life on the campaign trail also exposed her to other ways
her family was different. “I would always question, ‘Why does
my school look like this, and why does this school look like
that?’” Ashley says. The experience turned her into a young
activist. When she found out a teen cosmetics brand she loved
tested on animals, she had her whole school writing letters to
the company asking them to stop. When she learned dolphins
were getting caught in tuna nets, she carted around posters with dolphins and facts about saving them in the halls of
Congress. “I learned about injustice young,” Ashley says. “That
I had a duty to not be complicit, to not turn the other way.”
She grew up close with her half brothers (who chose her
name), the classic tagalong little sister. “I used to be able to hang

A

74

“I LIKE THE SAYING, ‘THE
REAL FLEX IS STAYING KIND,
NO MATTER HOW CRUEL
THE WORLD GETS.’ THAT’S
KIND OF BEEN MY MISSION.”
out with their group of friends as long as I would sing a Grateful
Dead song,” Ashley remembers. In adulthood, she’s a devoted
aunt. Her nieces Naomi and Finnegan, 29 and 23, call her their
“fiercest advocate, protector, and confidant.” When asked to
share stories about Ashley, the pair recall how she cried when
she met Mary J. Blige, the phase where she prank-called family members, her dance moves, and her “usually endearing”
obsession with taking family photos (and “her unique ability
to choose the least flattering photo of all of us”).
I ask Ashley if growing up as a Biden meant she felt somewhat obliged to devote her life to service, but she dismisses
the notion. “The only thing my parents always said to me was,
‘Follow your passion,’” Ashley says. “There was never any pressure to go into service, but I saw my mother, a teacher, and my
dad, who was working on issues Americans care about.” For
a while, her parents thought she would be an entrepreneur.
“They were always like, ‘Oh, you want that? You’ve got to do
chores and make some money to get it,’” Ashley remembers.
“So I used to go to the beach and collect seashells and paint
them and go door-to-door selling them as soap dishes.”
She ended up earning a bachelor’s degree in cultural anthropology in 2003 from Tulane University in New Orleans. Her
college roommate–turned–best friend, Seema Sadanandan,
recalls a time after college when they were in DC during the
Obama years, when Ashley’s dad was vice president. There was
a party happening at the White House, and “I was like, ‘Ash, we
should totally go to this. This is a big deal.’ And she said, ‘But
how will we get in?’” Seema remembers. “That is the perfect
example of what she’s like. She is aware of the privilege, but her
inclination isn’t to figure out how to use it. She’s still Ash. She
still wakes up and texts her girlfriends positive affirmations.”
After college, Ashley joined the clinical support staff at a
community mental health clinic for children and their families,
a position she held for four years. “That’s when I really saw this
fee-for-service model for mental health and how ineffective it
was,” she says. “It was kind of a conveyor belt—people were
continuously coming in, and I didn’t see people getting better.”
She also worked for a year at a group home for foster kids, helping 18- to 24-year-olds who were aging out of the program find
jobs or enroll in educational training. “I saw all of this unhealed
trauma. I could get somebody a job, but if they were dealing
with panic attacks, getting to that job was often hard,” Ashley
explains. “It was then that I started to say, ‘Okay, something
needs to change with [the way we’re treating] mental health.’”
Such experiences prompted her to enroll in a master’s of
social work program at the University of Pennsylvania parttime in the evenings, while she continued to work full-time
during the day. She thought she wanted to be a therapist, so she
did her grad school internship at Seaford House, an inpatient
group home for kids. “It was very traumatic,” she says. “These
one-on-ones, I would take home with me. And so then I realized I wanted to do something on a broader level, working in

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program development and policy reform.”
Apparently never shying away from a
challenge when it came to her workplaces, in 2008, Ashley took a job at Delaware’s
Department of Services for Children,
Youth & Their Families, developing educational and job training programs at
mental health facilities and juvenile detention centers. Four years there led to her
next role, in 2012, as associate executive
director and eventually executive director of the nonprofit Delaware Center for
Justice, the state’s leading criminal justice
organization, which provides advocacy
and programming for people impacted
by the criminal legal system.
Ashley left the center after seven years,
in March 2019, to work as a surrogate on
her father’s campaign. Even though they
now live in the White House, she still tries
to see her parents once a week and usually talks to both of them about twice a day.
“It is not hyperbole when I say my dad is
my best friend,” Ashley says. Her favorite
moments are when they are back home
together in Delaware. “The White House
is wonderful, but it’s also a bubble,” Ashley
says. “So I also love seeing them in the
house that I grew up in, with Mom just
cooking me an egg sandwich.”
She is now applying for a doctorate
in clinical social work at the University
of Pennsylvania, to dig deeper into the
neurobiology of trauma and eventually
develop her own curriculum. “I think I do
have the teaching gene in me,” she notes.
In the meantime, she’s consulting for clients like the Boys & Girls Club of America,
as well as the UCSF–Department of Psychiatry and Behavioral
Sciences on its trauma recovery center model.
Ashley also hopes to open a wellness space for women impacted by trauma in partnership with Mural Arts Philadelphia.
She envisions it as a drop-in space where women can eat a
healthy meal, hit the treadmill or box, listen to guided meditation, and access therapies including EMDR and infrared saunas, which Ashley herself has found effective. “I was able to
get great treatment, and so I’ve been able to take some of those
things that I’ve learned in therapy and use them as well,” she
says. She specifically cites EMDR, or eye movement desensitization and reprocessing, which many trauma survivors have
found effective at changing the way they experience painful
memories. “EMDR did wonders for me when it came to my
brother’s death,” Ashley says, noting that she suffered from
PTSD after Beau died: “Brain cancer is horrendous, and watching someone you love go through that is horrendous.”
You may have gathered by now that trauma is a big focus for
Ashley. “Hurt people hurt people,” she says. “And if we don’t
break that cycle, if we don’t heal, the hurt will continue.” She’s
working to bring a trauma recovery center to Philadelphia.
She’s also just finished leading a support group for 15 formerly
incarcerated women, and she will lead another group in March.
She lights up when she talks about the women in her group,
whom she met with about twice a week for four months. It’s

clear they formed a tight bond; they’re all on a group text that
Ashley says pings with new messages all day long. When she
reads some of the texts aloud to me, she gets tears in her eyes.
For one meeting, she brought her group to a recording studio, where they performed a group song, set to Lauryn Hill’s
“Doo-Wop (That Thing),” with altered lyrics, which Ashley
sings for me: “World, you know you better watch out/’cause
Philly girls are only about/healing, healing, healing.” She shows
me a video of the group singing it, their laughter filling the studio. “Something as simple as being able to go to a microphone
and sing is helping them find their voice and try new things,”
Ashley says. “To feel uncomfortable, but to do it anyway.”
Perhaps the recording session reinforced that lesson for
her as well. Being sure about who she is, feeling confident as
a group leader, wanting to share what she’s learned—maybe
it’s all made it possible for Ashley to feel comfortable opening
herself to the world, too, no matter how cold it can feel out
there. “It used to anger me more. But I’m over 40 now. I’m in
my skin. I love who I am. I know my family. I adore them,” she
says. “So, all of the other shit, excuse my language, is just noise.”
Toward the end of our conversation, I ask Ashley about
mantras she likes. “I like the saying, ‘The real flex is staying kind
no matter how cruel the world gets,’” she says. “That’s kind of
been my mission recently, to stay kind, to stay grounded, no
matter how much the world tries to hurt me or my family.” ▪
75

Is
Watching
You

The star of

We d n e s d a y and
Scream VI
built her career
on intense
obser vation
and obvious
talent.
Now she has
to learn to
be famous.

By Hunter
Harris
Photographed by
Felix Cooper
Styled
by Patti Wilson

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“I’m definitely the actress who’s like, ‘More blood,’”
Jenna Ortega deadpans. “If I’m going to speak up about anything, or put my two cents in about anything,” she says, it would
be that: Let a scene be as crimson as possible. Gore has always
fascinated Ortega; she wanted to start acting, at all of six years
old, because she watched a movie that scared her. It’s fitting,
then, that Ortega is Gen Z’s reigning scream queen: The star of
Scream VI commits to the bit.
This morning, though, it’s the day after Friday the 13th, and
there’s no blood. Ortega and I are thumbing through crates of
rock and disco records at Superior Elevation, a vintage record
store in Brooklyn. Outside, the sidewalks are dusted with snow,
and it is folklore degrees. Inside, the decor is artful-sparse, with
dozens of crates of music—good, bad, old, older, very old—lining three rows of tables and a lot of floor space. Ortega lives in
California, and doesn’t make it to Brooklyn very often (she was
in New York for the ELLE photo shoot). A few days before,
she’d presented the award for Best Original Song at the Golden
Globes; music, she says, is her preferred language. “I listen to
absolutely anything. I know everyone says that,” she says, “but
sometimes I’ll listen to stuff that I don’t even think is good because I just need to understand.”
In her day job, Ortega plays the titular role in Wednesday,
the Addams Family spin-off directed and executive produced
by Tim Burton, which quickly became the second-most-popular English-language series on Netflix to date. “You have
to kind of ‘be’ Wednesday, and that’s what Jenna is,” Burton
says. “Whether she likes it or not, she’s got that in her soul,
and as a person.” (About a month after the show’s premiere,
a fan’s botched tattoo, which looked like Samuel L. Jacksonas-Wednesday—the shading was all over the place, the nose
was scrunched in a scowl, the forehead was the size of North
America—went viral. “Oh my God,” Ortega says when I ask her
if she’s seen it. “I almost made it my profile photo.”) In March,
Ortega will reprise her role as Tara Carpenter in Scream VI.
The actress who was introduced to Hollywood as “young Jane”
in Jane the Virgin in 2014 now has over 39 million followers
on Instagram. From Jane the Virgin to Disney’s Stuck in the
Middle to her current slate of films, Ortega has been working
constantly, at an almost frantic pace. She kind of likes it that
way: “From ‘Action’ to ‘Cut’ is the only reason I like my job,”
she says. Between those two directions, she says, “It’s like I
pass the fuck out.”
In the rebooted Scream franchise, released last year, Ortegaas-Tara was stabbed seven times at home, attacked again at the
hospital where she was recovering, and then attacked again at
her friend’s house. “On our first day of shooting with her on
Scream, about an hour in, we all turned to each other and said,
‘Oh, she’s great. We are underutilizing her in this movie,’” recalls Matt Bettinelli-Olpin, one of the movie’s two directors.
“In the last one, I was screaming and crying the entire time,”
Ortega says, straight-faced. “This time, I actually had to create
a personality for her. I actually had to decide, What does she
wear? What’s her favorite color? How does she wear her makeup? What’s her sense of humor?” The Scream directors wanted

Ortega because she has a good scream, obviously, and because
she can perform the horror and comedy tones they want. “She’s
genuinely one of the most hilarious people we’ve worked with,
and I think that just comes from being really grounded,” adds
executive producer Chad Villella.
Ortega has shaken off the nerves of joining such an iconic film series. “I have so much respect for the franchise that I
didn’t want to do it wrong,” she says. “I wanted to do it justice,
but I also didn’t want to be ripping anybody off.” In this movie, for the first time, Neve Campbell won’t reprise her role as
Sidney Prescott. Campbell walked away, she told Variety, due
to a salary negotiation that she felt undervalued her contribution as star of the 25-year-old franchise. “It was really unfortunate,” Ortega says of Campbell’s absence, “especially because
Neve is the coolest, sweetest, most talented lady. The franchise
wouldn’t be what it is without her.”
Ortega is naturally introverted. For the two hours we’re
talking and flipping through records, in a totally empty store,
she keeps her coat on and tote bag tucked under her arm and
speaks softly. She has a small circle of friends, some of them fellow cast and crew members. She knows exactly how to perform
on camera, but the networking side of acting—the red carpets,
promos, and appearances—she seems less certain about. “If I
want to make films so badly and I want to play characters or I
want to direct and write film scores, I could do that all in my
backyard. I don’t have to be doing it on a grand scale like this,”
she says. What pushes her forward is the chance to work with
the best. “But ultimately, all the other side stuff that comes with
my job, sometimes it makes it feel like it’s almost not worth it.
I don’t want to feel like a walking billboard, which is a really,
really scary feeling because then you feel less and less in control
of your life. I feel like I’ve seen a lot of people or know people
who have succumbed to that pressure. I don’t want to belong
to anyone or anything.”
She’s still figuring out what that give-and-take means. On
her off days in Montreal, while filming Scream VI, she’d go on
runs or hang out in parks: “Sometimes I’d just rot in bed. Some
days I’d go out, and it was good to be surrounded by friends,
because they pulled me out.” She gravitates toward antique
stores, record stores, bookstores—shops that are the same in every country, but also places that don’t necessitate a lot of prying
eyes, where she can feel sort of anonymous and just observe.
“I’ll see someone on the street, and it’s kind of annoying because
I feel like I’m infected. My job [has given me] a virus where I
can’t function without picking up on what everyone is doing.”
The way someone walks or sounds can go into a character. Her
Wednesday costar Gwendoline Christie picked up on Ortega’s
watchful eye. “She has an inquisitive nature,” Christie says. “It
almost feels like a paradox in her character, where she seems to
consume life seriously, but she also appreciates all of its absurdity, and she has this unabandoned imagination alongside of it.”
Though she grew up in California’s Coachella Valley
(the fourth kid in a family of six), Ortega had no connection to

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“I’ll see
someone on
the street,
and it’s kind of
a n n oy i n g
because I feel
like I’m
Hollywood. Her mother is an ER nurse, and her father, a former sheriff, works in the California district attorney’s office,
“imprisoning child predators and all that,” Ortega notes. She
wanted to be an actor after watching Man on Fire, the Denzel
Washington kidnapping thriller marked by Dakota Fanning’s
standout performance, when she was maybe a little too young.
Fanning was so believable that Ortega had nightmares for
months. But her curiosity was piqued: How had Fanning managed to scare and inspire her in equal measure?
“I was happy sitting and dissecting that movie over and
over again. I couldn’t fathom how someone so young could do
something that would scare me so aggressively. But I also loved
the way that it made me feel,” she says. “I decided that’s what I
was passionate about.” When she told her mom she wanted to
be an actress, she laughed, but only because just two weeks before, her daughter had told her she had a huge crush on Barack
Obama and wanted to become the first female president. “I had
phases where I clung to something,” Ortega recalls. (Though,
she says, some have stuck: “To this day, I’m still obsessed with
Obama.”)
Ortega says that her parents’ jobs made them “very strict”
and “very, very paranoid.” Her mom, having once watched a
program on Macaulay Culkin and the toxicity he experienced
as a child in Hollywood, went into “panic mode” and tried to
distract her daughter with other things, like soccer and school.
But after “three or four years of begging,” Ortega, who admits to
having a stubborn streak, wore her down, and her mother posted a video of Jenna doing a monologue on her Facebook page.
“Someone found it and tried to get me signed with an agency,”
Ortega says. “And my mom agreed because she thought I might
hold it against her for the rest of my life” if she didn’t.
Her mom started shuttling her to auditions in Los Angeles,
sometimes driving for six hours round trip. Ortega was happy to
be working, but felt the strain on her family. “To do that four to
five days a week and still raise your other children was absurd,”
she says. “My family made a lot of sacrifices.” The prospect of
building her career was exciting—and daunting. “It was the
guilt of, Okay, well if this doesn’t work out, I’m screwed, I guess,”
she says. “I just put my entire family through this because that’s
a lot of money and time that we did not have.”
She mixed up some words in her one-line Jane the Virgin
audition—“Fortunately enough, I look like Gina Rodriguez,
because I don’t think I did anything overwhelmingly special in
there,” she says—and started living in two worlds. She’d work
in L.A. for days at a time, then be back in school, in the desert,
with her friends. When she starred in Stuck in the Middle for
three years, she was willing to put in the hard work. “I wanted
so badly to be in this industry that I was willing to be extroverted and big”—more expressive than she usually is, or wants to
be, in her work. It was the first move in a larger game: “If this is
what I have to do right now, I completely understand, and I’ll
commit to it as hard as possible.”
Maybe some version of that is playing out for her
today: Horror helped her break out of the Disney-kid mold

infected. My
she very consciously wanted to shed. But now she’s conscious
of over-indexing on the gore scale. “I feel very conflictedjob
in [has
what I’m interested in or what I’m passionate about, because
there’s a part of me that always feels like the girl in the Coachella
g i v e n m e]
Valley,” she says.
When she was starting out, she’d do anything to keep worka virus
ing. A decade into an acting career, she’s big time: streamed, followed, in demand. She can choose projects based on whatw
she
here I
wants; she doesn’t have to settle for, she says, “being the sidekick
who carries the Puerto Rican flag on her shoulder and
makes
it
can’t
function
her entire personality.” She has a starring role in director Brian
Helgeland’s forthcoming crime thriller Finestkind (coincidenwithout
tally, Helgeland also cowrote Man on Fire). “I would always
describe her on set as a Navy SEAL. When it was time forpicking
Jenna up
to come on, I’d be like, ‘Get the Navy SEAL down here!’ She just
delivered and nailed it in two takes,” Helgeland says. “She’s like
on what
a knife thrower at a carnival. You might say, ‘A little to your left’
or ‘A little to your right,’ but you’re not ever gonna tell her
e vhow
er yone
to throw the knife, because she knows how to do it.”
Ortega also produced and starred in her first romantic
is doing.”
comedy, Winter Spring Summer or Fall (no release date yet), but
she doesn’t like romantic comedies herself. “I hate being googoo gaga over a boy,” Ortega says. “I think it’s secretly a pride
thing. It’s a problem with a lot of female characters, that a lot of
them are guy-oriented or what they’re expressing or emoting is
based on a guy’s position and a guy’s story.” The same is not true
for Ortega, who says she isn’t dating. “Maybe I am too obsessed
with my work, but the idea of relationships stresses me out,” she
explains. “And also being that vulnerable with someone and
having to get to know someone that well and having someone
see you for all that you are.…” She trails off. “My brain knows
that I don’t need to think about that right now.”
Instead, she’s thinking about the familiar early-twenties
anxieties: “I am so fearful of disappointing the people in my
life, or even people in public,” she says. “I want to live up to
people’s expectations, which is something that I need to get
over, but I’m also scared that, I don’t know, maybe someone
will get to know me too well and realize that I’m not all that.”
Which is why when people compliment her, she sometimes
feels disbelief: “The kind words that I hear that they say about
me through other people are unbelievable to me. I feel like just
the people in my life see me in a way that I don’t really see myself.” The compliments are also encouraging as she’s figuring
out her own voice.
For now, Ortega is gearing up for Wednesday’s second season. Her dream growing up was to work nonstop; now she’s
giving herself time to relax. “There’s a month of this year that
I want to take off, and I’ve made it very clear that I’m going to
take this month off. I’m going to travel, I just got a flip phone,
I’m just going to be hidden for a while,” she says cheerfully. “I
have to work things around my schedule to make sure that that
month stays open. There’s a part of it that’s stressful because
it’s like, ‘Oh my God, can I tell this director that I don’t want
to work these two weeks? Can I?’ I don’t know, but I am also
making the rules.”

Dress, Valentino,
$4,200. Hat, Jo Miller
Studio, $1,050.
Knee-high boots,
Courrèges, $1,190.

HAIR BY WARD STEGERHOEK AT HOME AGENCY; MAKEUP BY MARCELO GUTIERREZ AT BRYANT ARTISTS; MANICURE BY HONEY AT EXPOSURE
NY; SET DE SI GN BY A NDY HA RMA N AT L AL A L A ND A RT ISTS; P ROD UCE D BY HEATH ER RO BB INS AN D MARY GOUG HNOUR AT CL M.

Dress, Coperni.
Headpiece, Brent
Lawler for
Batsheva. Socks,
Falke, $25.
Pumps, Roger
Vivier, $1,150.
For details, see
Shopping Guide.

Dress, Christopher
Kane. Earrings,
Cartier, $1,150. Bracelet,
Hermès, $780.

THE BIG

GET A LEG UP
ON SPRING’S RISING
HEMLINES WITH
MOD MINIDRESSES
AND SPORTY SHORTS.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
PAUL WETHERELL
STYLED BY
ALEXANDER PICON

SHORT

Opposite: Belted
bodysuit, top,
leggings, Raf Simons.
Earring, Chanel
Fine Jewelry. Cap,
Cherry Vintage.
This page: Jumpsuit,
Max Mara, $725.

Opposite: Dress,
Prada, $2,900.
This page: Dress,
$7,650, veil,
Versace. Earring,
Hermès, $310.
BEAUTY TIP

The brush is key for
a sharp flick. Try one
with a paintbrushstyle tip, like Uoma
Beauty Afro.Dis.Iac
Cleopatra Ink Liquid
Eyeliner ($18).

Opposite: Turtleneck,
$1,090, shorts,
$890, Ralph Lauren
Collection.
This page: Dress,
Vera Wang Haute,
$3,600. Sneakers,
Reebok, $85.

HAIR BY KEI TERADA AT JULIAN WATSON AGENCY; MAKEUP BY KABUKI FOR
CHA NEL B EAUT Y; MA N IC URE BY HO NEY AT EXP OSUR E NY; SE T DE SI GN BY BRI AN
LEE; MODEL: LUNA BIJL AT DNA; PRODUCED BY 1972 AGENCY.

Opposite: Dress,
brief, pumps,
$1,850, Loewe. Bow
headband, J.R.
Malpere, $325.
This page: Jacket,
Chanel, $9,300.
Earrings, Chanel Fine
Jewelry. Bow,
L. Erickson USA, $98.
For details, see
Shopping Guide.
BEAUTY TIP

Fake a wet-hair look by
combing a gel, like
TRESemmé Tres Two
Extra Hold Hair Gel
($7), through hair with
a wide-toothed comb.

STRICTLY BUSINESS

FUSS-FREE UNIFORMS AND DRAMATIC UPDOS
CEMENT A SLEEK SIGNATURE STYLE.

PHOTOGRAPHED
BY BRYCE ANDERSON

STYLED BY
ALEXANDER PICON

Dress, Saint Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello, $2,790. Headband,
Vex Latex, $25. Ring, Boucheron.
Mules, Giuseppe Zanotti, $795.

Opposite: Shirt, $1,050, skirt, $1,390,
Fendi. Shoulder bag, Chanel,
$4,400. Ring, Bulgari. Pumps, Bottega
Veneta, $1,750.

This page: Dress, Celine by Hedi Slimane,
$2,600. Headband, Vex Latex, $25.
Huggie earrings, Jennifer Fisher, $195.
Paper clip earring, Hillier Bartley.

Opposite: Top, pants, Louis Vuitton.
Headband, Vex Latex, $25. Earrings, Saint
Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, $995.
Bracelet, $5,300, ring, $1,950, Cartier. Watch,
Hermès, $7,250. Mules, Manolo Blahnik.

This page: Blouse, $2,000, corset, skirt,
$5,000, Dior. Earrings, Bulgari.

HA IR BY O RL A ND O P ITA FOR OR L A NDO PI TA PL AY; MA KEU P BY SAM VI SS ER FO R DIO R BEAUT Y; MA NIC UR E BY MARTH A F EK ET E FOR CH ANEL LES VERNIS; CASTING BY SHAUN BEYEN AT PLUS THREE T WO; MODELS: AL AY DENG AT STATE MANAGEMENT
AND CRISTINA JUGO AT THE LIONS; SET DESIGN BY STEFAN BECKMAN AT EXPOSURE NY; PRODUCED BY 1972 AGENCY.

BEAUTY TIP

Great makeup starts with good
skin care. Try Dior Beauty’s
Capture Totale Le Sérum ($100)
for a healthy glow.

Opposite: Blouse, Giorgio Armani, $795.
Trousers, Emporio Armani, $875. Headband,
Vex Latex, $25. Ring, Van Cleef &
Arpels. Pumps, Gianvito Rossi, $775.

This page: Shirt, skirt, Hermès. Headband,
Vex Latex, $25. Huggie earring, Jennifer
Fisher, $195. Paper clip earring, Hillier Bartley.
For details, see Shopping Guide.

Shopping Guide
COVER
JENNA ORTEGA
Top, Loewe.
Inside Cover: Hooded dress,
Ferragamo, ferragamo.com.
Elsa Peretti cuff, Tiffany &
Co., $1,700, tiffany.com.
EDITOR’S LETTER
PAGE 12: Dolce & Gabbana,
dolcegabbana.com.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE 22: Ferragamo, ferragamo.
com. Elsa Peretti cuff, Tiffany
& Co., tiffany.com.
TRENDING: SHOP
PAGE 38: Watch, Audemars Piguet,
$35,600, audemarspiguet.com.
ASHLEY BIDEN KNOWS
WHO SHE IS
PAGES 72–75: Brandon Maxwell,
brandonmaxwellonline.com. Jennifer
Fisher, jenniferfisherjewelry.com.
Jimmy Choo, jimmychoo.com.
Altuzarra, similar styles at altuzarra.
com. Loro Piana, loropiana.com.
Sophie Buhai, sophiebuhai.com.
Brent Neale, shopetcjewelry.com.
JENNA ORTEGA
PAGES 76–89: Simone Rocha,
simonerocha.com. Paula Mendoza,
paulamendoza.com. Roger Vivier,
rogervivier.com. Ferragamo,
ferragamo.com. Prada, prada.com.
Harry Winston, harrywinston.com.
Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., tiffany.
com. Dolce & Gabbana, dolcegabbana.
com. Alaïa, maison-alaia.com.
Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels, $11,600,
vancleefarpels.com. Valentino,
similar styles at Valentino boutiques
nationwide. Jo Miller Studio,
jomillerstudio.com. Courrèges,
courreges.com. Coperni, coperniparis.
com. Brent Lawler for Batsheva,
batsheva.com. Falke, falke.com.

STRICTLY BUSINESS
PAGES 100–107: Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent
(NYC). Vex Latex, vexclothing.
com. Ring, Boucheron, $42,600,
boucheron.com. Giuseppe Zanotti,

DRESS, SILVIA
TCHERASSI,
$1,250, SAKS
.COM. SNEAKERS,
REEBOK, $85,
REEBOK.COM.

giuseppezanotti.com. Fendi,
fendi.com. Bulgari, bulgari.com.
Bottega Veneta, bottegaveneta.
com. Celine by Hedi Slimane,
celine.com. Jennifer Fisher,
jenniferfisherjewelry.com. Hillier
Bartley, hillierbartley.com. Louis

Vuitton, louisvuitton.com. Cartier,
cartier.com. Hermès, hermes.com.
Manolo Blahnik, manoloblahnik.
com. Dior, 800-929-DIOR.
Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani,
armani.com. Van Cleef & Arpels,
877-VAN-CLEEF. Gianvito Rossi,

gianvitorossi.com. Shirt, $13,000,
skirt, $11,500, Hermès, hermes.com.
Prices are approximate.
ELLE recommends that
merchandise availability be
checked with local stores.

ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (Volume XXXVIII, Number 7) (April 2023) is published monthly by Hearst, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 USA. Steven
R. Swartz, President and Chief Executive Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman. Hearst Magazine Media,
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108

PAUL W ET HE RE LL

THE BIG SHORT
PAGES 90–99: Christopher Kane,
christopherkane.com. Cartier,
cartier.com. Hermès, hermes.
com. Chanel, Chanel Fine Jewelry,
800-550-0005. Cherry Vintage,
Cherry Vintage (NYC). Max Mara,
maxmara.com. Prada, prada.com.
Versace, versace.com. Ralph Lauren
Collection, ralphlauren.com. Vera
Wang Haute, verawang.com. Reebok,
reebok.com. Loewe, loewe.com.
J.R. Malpere, jrmalpere.com. L.
Erickson USA, franceluxe.com.

P RO MOTI ON

APRIL 2023

LOOK FOR IT ON DIGITAL
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socialite who lures him with an offer
he can’t refuse…and an agenda all her own.
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to whip into shape—be able to pull it off?
MAGICMIKESLASTDANCEMOVIE.COM

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V I S I T E L L E E X T R A .C O M F O R P E O P L E A N D P R O D U C T S W E A R E O B S E S S E D W I T H .

Horoscope
ARIES

GEMINI

MAR 21–APR 19

MAY 21–JUNE 21

On the 20th, the Aries hybrid
solar eclipse could spin you
into a frenzy as you tap
into a powder keg of
feelings. Drop the mask and
let friends in on where you’re
currently scared or floundering.
Your raw courage will win
over their hearts and minds.

You’re ripe for romance when
the full moon on the 6th
powers up your fifth house
of passion, so be open to
surprises. A spirit of playful
experimentation strikes near
the 20th, so share a wilder
fantasy with your partner.
And at work, your ideas will
catch fire fast. Protect your
intellectual property so you
get credit where it’s due.

APR 20–MAY 20

Forget spring cleaning—
you’re ready to update
entire infrastructures. To
tame stress at work, design
systems for workflow and
organization. Temporary
slowdowns will give way
to accelerated productivity,
and here’s the real bonus:
You’ll hit benchmarks
without working so hard.

CANCER

New strategies for bonding arise with the Libra
full moon on the 6th, but don’t forget to show
yourself some love, too. Plus, a second new moon
in Aries arrives on the 20th—the first solar
eclipse in this autonomous fire sign since 2015.
April’s mission: Balance “we” and “me.”
By the AstroTwins

JUNE 22–JULY 22

What if, instead of work-life
balance, you aimed for a more
fluid approach? Cancers are
fundamentally mood-directed,
and you can’t just switch into
instant productivity mode
or relax on command. So give
“work-life integration” a try.

LEO

SAGITTARIUS

JULY 23–AUG 22

NOV 22–DEC 21

You’ll quench your thirst for
social stimulation this month.
Sign up for self-development
workshops, or take evening
classes in anything from aerial
yoga to life drawing. But
don’t overcommit, even if
you’re sure you’ve found the
thing you’re passionate about.
A can’t-miss travel opportunity
could arrive near the 20th that
requires a flexible schedule.

April is pregnant with possibility,
but you’ll have to apply your
special brand of optimism if
you want to manifest your goals.
Act as if your desired results
have already materialized. As
long as you’re not chasing
a pipe dream, this exercise
can be a powerful attractor.

VIRGO

Curiosity is the gateway to
intimacy this month. Pause to
look around, take in your
environment, and allow yourself
to wonder about where you are
right here and right now. Instead
of hitting a plateau, let your
everyday interactions become
peak bonding experiences.

AUG 23–SEPT 22

You’re capable of so much
more than you’ve dared to
admit out loud, and it’s time
to speak up for yourself.
April’s stars deliver important
lessons in self-worth. Where
have you been undervaluing
what you offer? Evaluate
transactional relationships,
especially if you’re always
the one in deficit.

“Diamonds created from
stars connect us to the
galaxy above, in the same way
light through stained glass
can connect us to the heavens.”
—Ming Lampson, founder and
designer, Ming Jewellery

LIBRA
SEPT 23–OCT 22

If you’ve been hesitant to
put yourself out there, a glowing
full moon in Libra pulls you
out from behind the curtain
near the 6th. Ask the VIPs
you’ve supported to help
you create a buzz. But
remember, after they put in
a good word on your behalf,
it’s your job to be courageous
and deliver the goods.

SCORPIO
OCT 23–NOV 21

STAINED GLASS, YELLOW SAPPHIRE, AND CUSTOM-CUT
DIAMOND RING, MING, MINGJEWELLERY.COM.

110

This month’s stars invite you
to reframe a recent failure as
a golden opportunity to
pivot. Whether you change
your approach or shift in
an entirely new direction is your
call. To advance your cause, roll
up your sleeves and engage
with the learning process.
Complexities can be mastered
if you dissect them one piece
at a time, ideally with support
from a knowledgeable guide.

CAPRICORN
DEC 22–JAN 19

AQUARIUS
JAN 20–FEB 18

Near the full moon on the 6th,
your unwavering belief in
another person could change
their life. By the same token,
don’t disregard any unpleasant
exchanges because you
want to keep things positive.
Being able to address
conflicts quickly is the best
litmus test for relationships.

PISCES
FEB 19–MAR 20

A confusing person could take
up significant airtime, if you
let them. Should you sense this
cat-and-mouse game is going
somewhere healthy, play! But
if it’s just one big distraction,
do everything possible to
pull away. The stable option
could look a lot more enticing
after the hybrid eclipse on
the 20th, so drop assumptions
and take a second look.

See the AstroTwins, Tali and
Ophira Edut, in Cosmic Love
on Amazon Prime Video.

C OURTESY O F T HE D ESIGNE R.

TAURUS

APRIL