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all its glory

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The thrill of becoming awestruck as you arrive at a fabled destination for the first time.
The joy of celebrating life, with indulgent cuisine.
It’s the personal experiences that will last a lifetime.

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March
VOLUME 69 NUMBER 2

TABLE TALK

52

68

88

9

PICK OF THE PANTRY
Raisins bring unexpected
complexity to savory dishes.

SIZZLE IT OUT
Whether you’re in the mood
for a bowl of Cajun-style
shrimp fried rice or gingery
chicken stir-fry, starting with
simple aromatic bases puts you
on the fast track to big flavor.

THE LIFE OF A SPICE
When was the last time you
checked the best-by date
on that tin of turmeric?
These 10 bold recipes—think
coriander-crusted salmon and
paprikash pasta—make the
case for a proper pantry refresh.

BASICALLY
How to source, store, and
cut avocados like a pro.

TEXT BY EMMA LAPERRUQUE
RECIPES BY REBECCA FIRKSER

BY ANTARA SINHA

56
16
DINNER IS SERVED
Herby cauliflower fritters,
a street-corn-inspired soup,
and more weeknight-friendly
recipes that harness the
power of frozen produce.

LITTLE THINGS
Wilmington, Delaware’s
Simmer Down is a bank
vault turned cocktail lounge
packed with playful details.

WHERE TO EAT IN
PORTLAND, OR
The Rose City’s dining
scene is more delicious and
dynamic than ever before.
BY JORDAN MICHELMAN

BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC

28

BY DENNIS LEE

50

58

TEXT BY ANTARA SINHA
RECIPES BY KENDRA VACULIN

76
GLUTEN-FREE BAKING
FOR EVERYONE
Oatmeal cookies packed with
mix-ins. A tender, towering
chocolate cake. Focaccia
with bubbles in all the right
places. All without a spoonful
of wheat flour in sight.
Welcome to the golden age
of gluten-free baking—
we’ve been expecting you.

BY MEGAN WAHN

FEATURES
BEST IN TOWN
Chicago takes hot dogs very
seriously—and these eight
places can’t be beat.

TEXT BY NINA MOSKOWITZ
RECIPES BY RACHEL GURJAR

THE BA 56
A buttery kimchi noodle dish
that defines 21st-century
comfort cooking.
RECIPE BY ANDY BARAGHANI

Download the

app for unlimited
access to all these delicious
recipes, plus 60,000
more from our archives.

P H OTO G R A P H BY I S A Z A PATA . F O O D ST Y L I N G BY K A I T L I N WAY N E . P R O P ST Y L I N G BY C H R I ST I N A A L L E N .

IN EVERY ISSUE

6
FROM THE EDITOR

102
RECIPE INDEX

104
LAST CALL
A bracing martini variation
starring fino sherry.
RECIPE BY AL SOTACK

ON THE COVER

A fully loaded hot dog from Chicago’s
Superdawg. Photograph by Evan Jenkins.

Kaitlin Guerin, owner of Lagniappe Baking, New Orleans, LA

A work of art
deserves a
proper pedestal.

TM

True to food

Copyright 2024© Signature Kitchen Suite, 111 Sylvan Ave., Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632. All rights reserved. “Signature Kitchen Suite” and the Signature Kitchen Suite logo are trademarks of Signature Kitchen Suite.

From the Editor
Editor in chief Jamila Robinson shares what’s on her mind this month

Finding an apartment in New
York City can be a lot like dating. I definitely have a type.
I’m attracted to beautiful Art
Deco and Beaux Arts buildings
with tall ceilings and lots of
character, outdoor spaces, and
most important, modern, stylish kitchens. While apartments

In My
Kitchen
6 M A R C H 2024

like that do exist, it’s tougher
finding one that is available,
where you can see a future.
As I scrolled the apps, I
quickly learned that moving
to New York comes with compromises. You trade your
backyard for the park. Your
second-floor laundry room

KitchenAid in Hibiscus
My 25-year-old stand mixer
runs like a dream, but
I wanted to give the blue-gray
cabinetry a shock of color.
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disappears—along with the
entire second floor. Your formal dining room becomes,
well, just vibes. And there are
things you can’t see coming,
like scaffolding blocking windows and garage fees that rival
a second mortgage.
In my search for a new
home, I was willing to make
some concessions everywhere
but the kitchen. I needed lots
of cabinets, counter space, a
dishwasher, and a gas stove.
Several real estate listings
claimed to have “a chef ’s
kitchen.” I’d arrive only to discover a compact 24-inch range
that couldn’t accommodate a
Dutch oven or a cookie sheet.
I began giving real estate
agents specific details about
what I wanted in a kitchen. It
needed to be recently renovated, have room for more than
one person, and it must have
a full-size gas stove and oven.
(One slick walk-up I visited had
only a cooktop and a toaster
oven on the counter.)
“New Yorkers just don’t cook
at home that much,” a longtime
resident insisted.
“That’s not true,” I said as
I considered all the people I
know who make recipes from
this magazine and entertain in
all sorts of spaces.
I continued to see dozens
of apartments with disappointing kitchens. There was the
one with the shallow sink. The
one with the wine fridge but
no garbage disposal. The one

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with the dearth of cabinets.
And the one with the bare wall
where the countertop was
supposed to be. I’m sure these
were perfectly fine apartments
for someone. But deal-breakers for me.
“You’re too picky,” I kept
being told.
Maybe so. But magic happens in kitchens. It’s where
I find creativity and energy.
And at a party, it’s where
everyone wants to be. Settling
for less than what I wanted
wasn’t an option.
Serendipitously, a friend
visiting from Austin told me
he wanted to introduce me to
a good friend who was selling
his place. “I think you’d really
like his apartment. It’s got a
huge kitchen,” he said.
I went to visit the flat and
fell in love with it immediately.
I knew I could finally delete
my real estate apps.
My new home doesn’t have
a terrace or a laundry room.
But the gorgeous kitchen is
filled with natural light and
enough counter space to roll
out pasta and laminate pastry.
And it came with something
I didn’t expect to enjoy: a view
of a city instead of the sky.

Passion Fruit Vine
Now that I’m without
outdoor space, I’m going
to attempt to grow more
fruit indoors—wish me luck.
$71; plantvine.com
P H OTO G R A P H BY I S A Z A PATA

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TEST KITCHEN TIPS,
RECIPES, and
RECOMMENDATIONS

Table Talk

A B A S I C A L LY G U I D E TO : AV O C A D O S

RESTAURANTS,
TRAVEL, and FOOD
FOR THOUGHT

It was a bold person who first ate an avocado. But what a reward: Beneath that rough
and scaly exterior hid a buttery flesh unlike anything else in the plant kingdom.
M A R C H 2024 9

Basically

Green Gold
Everything you need to know to buy, store,
and cut your way to avocado perfection
BY A NTAR A S I N H A
P H OTO G R A P H S BY I S A Z APATA

AVOCADO 101
Avocados were domesticated
over 5,000 years ago in
Mesoamerica, but they are
a bigger part of our diets now
than ever before: Americans eat
three times as many avocados,
or Persea americana, as they did
two decades ago. And it’s no
mystery why. Whether they’re
smooshed on toast, bundled into
a California roll, or mashed
into guac, these fruits—technically
berries—are uniquely satisfying,
boasting a wholesome richness
that is welcome at every meal
of the day. And once you know
how to make the most of these
produce-aisle gems, you’ll only
love them more.

BIG CHOICES
From tiny and teardropshaped to red-skinned
and bigger than your hand,
there’s a wide world of
avocado diversity out there.
If you are lucky enough to
live in a place where you
can find them at the farmers
market, or are willing
to shell out for specialty
mail-order fruit (more
on that later), you may be
familiar with names like
Choquette, Lula, Pinkerton,
Bacon, Reed, and Gwen, all
of which vary in their growing
season, shape, and texture.
If you’re looking to pick up a few
from the supermarket, though,
these are the two varieties you’re
most likely to come across.

Hass

Dominican/Florida

These make up 95 percent of the avocados
eaten in the US. They’re native to California,
but as demand has increased over the
decades, the majority are imported from
Mexico, where they’re grown year-round.
With thick, leathery skins and pale green
flesh, Hass avocados are especially buttery
and nutty. They’re our default for almost all
of our favorite avocado preparations.

You may also come across Dominican
avocados, also known as Florida avocados
depending on where you live. These are
larger than Hass, with thinner, greener skins
and flesh that is higher in moisture with
a yellowish hue. They are lower in fat and
usually taste milder, grassier, and more
vegetal and play especially well with lots
of acid and chile heat—think ceviche.

F O O D ST Y L I N G BY T Y N A H OA N G

PICK A RIPE ONE
Unlike many fruits, avocados don’t ripen on the
tree—they only begin the process after they’ve
been harvested. This makes transportation to
your local grocery store easier but also means
you have to do some sorting while shopping.
When Hass avocados are ripe, they will
have dark green, almost black skins
with a faint purple blush. Hold one
in the palm of your hand and give
it a light squeeze; it should give just
a little. These avocados will have a
firm yet creamy texture that’s just
right for slicing and dicing. To make
sure, you can nudge the stem off the
avocado. If it’s solidly in place, the
fruit needs a little more time. If it
comes away easily and you see a bright
green dimple underneath, you’re in
business. If you see brown streaks instead,
the avocado might be past its prime.

SPEED IT UP!
Unfortunately, there’s no way to magically transform
a rock-hard avocado into a ripe, creamy one—but you
can certainly accelerate the process. Place your unripe
avocados into a paper bag with a ripe banana or apple,
fold it shut, and leave it on your countertop for a day
or two. These other fruits release ethylene, a natural gas
and plant hormone that’s a by-product of ripening that
encourages nearby fruits to ripen as well.

KEEP THEM FRESH
Have a bunch of avos at optimal ripeness? Lucky you!
If you don’t plan to use them within a day or two, store
them in the fridge, ideally in an airtight container or
crisper drawer, which will keep them in peak condition
for another four or five days and prevent them from
drying out. If you need to keep half of an avocado in
good shape for another day or so, rub the cut surface
with a little lime or lemon juice to slow browning, then
wrap tightly in plastic and stash in the fridge.

CUT IT LIKE A PRO
Peeling and preparing an avocado doesn’t have to be
intimidating—and you don’t need any special tools to do it.
1. Starting at the stem end,
cut lengthwise around the
entire circumference of the
avocado, carefully tracing
the pit until you reach the
point where you started.
2. Then, hold the avocado
with both hands and twist
the two halves in opposite
directions to separate.
3. Hold the avocado half with
the pit in your palm. Using
a sharp knife, carefully (and
gently!) tap the knife into the

pit—you need less force
than you may think. Twist
the knife slightly to loosen
the pit, then lift it out.
4. From here it’s choose
your own adventure: Score
the flesh lengthwise and then
crosswise to scoop out with a
spoon for chunks that are just
right for salads. Remove the
peel and slice lengthwise into
long, thin strips to fan out
on toast. Or simply scoop with
a large spoon into a bowl
if it’s destined for mashing.
M A R C H 2024 11

PERFETTO.

Lasagna with
Fresh Mozzarella,
Parmesan, Ricotta
and Meatballs
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Dinner Is Served

Freeze Tag
QUICK AND EASY WEEKNIGHT MEALS

The secret to cooking like it’s peak produce
season all year round is your icebox. Stashing
your favorite fruits and vegetables next to
the ice cream means you can access the freshly
harvested flavor on demand, and these
weeknight-ready recipes show off just how
dynamic these flash-frozen ingredients can be.
As a bonus, reaching for frozen bags cuts
down prep time, as a lot of the hard work
(like cutting corn from the cob, slicing
and pitting peaches, and peeling tiny pearl
onions) is already done. It’s not cheating,
it’s optimizing! Stock up and thank us later.
—Kendra Vaculin
P H O TO G R A P H S BY I S A Z APATA

F O O D ST Y L I N G BY TA N E K A M O R R I S . P R O P ST Y L I N G BY T I M F E R R O .

Table Talk

M A R C H 2024 17

Dinner Is Served

Table Talk

SKILLET CHICKEN
THIGHS AND
PEACHES
This one-pan dinner features
frozen peaches transformed
alongside red onions into a
tangy savory side for crispy
chicken. Serve with potatoes
or bread to sop up the juices.
R E C I P E BY R AC H E L G U R J A R

2 – 4 S E RV I N G S

1½ lb. skin-on, bone-in
chicken thighs (about
4 small)
Kosher salt
2 tsp. all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium red onion, sliced
into 2"-thick wedges
6 garlic cloves, coarsely
chopped
4 sprigs thyme, plus more
for serving
⅓ cup apple cider vinegar
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
2 Tbsp. honey
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire
sauce
1 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1 1-lb. bag frozen sliced
peaches
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Pat
chicken thighs dry and season
generously all over with salt.
Sprinkle evenly on both sides
with flour.
2. Heat oil in a large cast-iron
or high-sided skillet over
medium. Cook chicken thighs,
skin side down, undisturbed,
until thighs release easily
from pan, 7–9 minutes. Turn
chicken over and cook on
other side until golden brown
underneath, about 5 minutes.
Transfer chicken to a plate and
arrange skin side up (they
won’t be fully cooked through
at this point).
3. Cook red onion in same
pan, stirring occasionally,
until slightly softened and
starting to turn golden brown,
about 5 minutes. Add garlic
and 4 thyme sprigs and cook,
stirring, until garlic is fragrant,
1–2 minutes.
4. Pour in vinegar, scraping up
any browned bits. Add Dijon
mustard, honey, Worcestershire
18 M A R C H 2024

sauce, pepper, and ¼ cup
water and stir to combine.
Remove pan from heat and
mix peaches into onion
mixture. Return chicken to
skillet, arranging skin side up.

5. Transfer pan to oven and
bake just until peaches
and chicken thighs are cooked
through (an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the
thickest part of a thigh without

touching the bone should
register 165°), 17–20 minutes.
6. Remove pan from oven
and scatter a few more thyme
sprigs over chicken to serve.

®

®

®

®

Dinner Is Served

Table Talk

ELOTE-STYLE
CORN SOUP
Inspired by the popular
Mexican street snack, this
quick soup calls for frozen
fire-roasted corn to add
depth and a smokiness
reminiscent of grilled corn
on the cob; garlic, chili
powder, cilantro, lime juice,
and Cotija cheese complete
the flavor nod. Blending
half of the soup brings a
velvety smoothness, while
leaving some whole
kernels lends a bit of texture.
R E C I P E BY H A N A A S B R I N K

4 – 6 S E RV I N G S

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
½ tsp. chili powder, plus
more for serving
1 medium onion, finely
chopped
5 garlic cloves, finely
chopped
2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or
1¼ tsp. Morton kosher
salt, plus more
Freshly ground pepper
1 large potato (russet or
Yukon Gold; about
1 lb.), peeled, cut into
½" pieces
4 cups low-sodium chicken
broth
1 12-oz. bag fire-roasted
frozen corn, divided
1 cup whole milk
Crumbled Cotija cheese,
chopped cilantro, and
lime wedges (for
serving)
1. Heat oil and butter in a
large Dutch oven or other
heavy pot over medium until
butter is melted and foaming.
Sprinkle in ½ tsp. chili powder
and cook, stirring, until
fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add onion and garlic and
cook, stirring occasionally,
until onion is translucent
and slightly softened, about
3 minutes. Season with salt
and pepper. Add potato,
broth, and two thirds of corn
(about 2 cups) and bring
to a boil. Reduce heat,
partially cover pot, and
simmer until potato is very
tender, 12–14 minutes.
2 0 M A R C H 2024

2. Remove pot from heat; stir
in milk. Carefully ladle about
half of soup into a blender and
blend, gradually increasing to
high speed, until very smooth.
Pour back into pot. (Or pour
half of soup into another pot

and blend with an immersion
blender until smooth.)

Reheat over low until warmed
through, about 5 minutes.

3. Add remaining corn and
2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or
1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt to
soup; season with pepper.

4. Ladle soup into bowls; top
with Cotija cheese and cilantro
and sprinkle with chili powder.
Serve with lime wedges.

Dinner Is Served

Table Talk

HERBY
CAULIFLOWER
FRITTERS
These cheesy lemon-scented
veggie fritters are like a
more delicate version
of falafel—an outstanding
case for putting a bag
of cauliflower rice in your
shopping cart this week.
R E C I P E BY J E S S E S Z E W C Z Y K

4 S E RV I N G S

1⅓ cups whole-milk Greek
yogurt
2 tsp. plus 2 Tbsp. finely
grated lemon zest
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
4 garlic cloves, finely
grated, divided
1 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup extravirgin olive oil; plus
more for drizzling
2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or
1½ tsp. Morton kosher
salt, divided, plus more
1 10-oz. bag frozen riced
cauliflower
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated
1 cup panko
¾ cup finely chopped mixed
tender herbs (such as
dill, chives, and/or
parsley), plus leaves for
serving
½ tsp. freshly ground
pepper, plus more
¼ medium red onion, thinly
sliced
1½ cups baby arugula
1. Whisk together yogurt,
lemon juice, 1 garlic clove,
1 Tbsp. oil, 2 tsp. lemon zest,
and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal
or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt
in a medium bowl. Taste sauce
and season with more salt if
needed. Set aside.
2. Cook cauliflower according
to package directions until
very tender. Transfer to a
medium bowl and let cool
5 minutes. Add egg, egg yolk,
Parmesan, panko, chopped
herbs, 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal
or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt,
½ tsp. pepper, remaining
3 garlic cloves, and remaining
2 Tbsp. lemon zest. Using clean
hands, mix and knead slightly
to smash cauliflower pieces into
2 2 M A R C H 2024

panko until texture is uniform.
Spoon out 2-tablespoonful
portions; roll into smooth balls.
(You should have about 14.)
3. Heat ¼ cup oil in a large
nonstick skillet over mediumhigh. Cook balls in a single
layer, undisturbed, until golden
brown underneath and fritters

release easily, about 3 minutes.
Turn onto opposite side; cook
until golden brown underneath,
about 3 minutes. Shake pan
to encourage balls onto an
unbrowned side (fritters will
have flattened slightly); cook,
turning occasionally to brown,
just until firm, about 3 minutes.
Remove from heat.

4. Toss red onion, arugula,
and some herb leaves in a
medium bowl to combine.
Drizzle with oil, season with
salt, and toss again to coat.
5. Spread reserved sauce
over a platter and arrange
fritters on top. Scatter salad
over; season with pepper.

LOVE IS IN THE DETAILS
®

Chef inspired.
Cat adored.

FancyFeast.com

Purina trademarks are owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A.

Dinner Is Served

PEARL ONION AND
SWEET PEPPER SKILLET
Frozen pearl onions are capable of so
much more than just side dish duty. They
only require a little love to take them from
their frozen state to sweet and tender.
A quick braise with butter and sugar cooks
through their firm, dense layers, resulting
in glazy, well-seasoned onions that play
nicely with sweet peppers and fried eggs.
R E C I P E BY K E N D R A VAC U L I N

4 S E RV I N G S

1

14.4-oz. bag frozen pearl onions,
thawed
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2 tsp. sugar
2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton
kosher salt, plus more
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 1-lb. bag mini sweet peppers, thinly
sliced
¼ cup tomato paste
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or
red wine vinegar
4 large eggs
Freshly ground pepper
Flaky sea salt
Chopped parsley and toasted bread
(for serving)
1. Cook pearl onions, butter, sugar, 2 tsp.
Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton salt,
and ½ cup water in a medium skillet over
medium-high heat, shaking pan occasionally
to toss onions, until liquid evaporates and
onions are tender, 9–12 minutes. Transfer
onions to a medium bowl.
2. Heat oil in same skillet. Add garlic and
cook, stirring constantly, until golden brown,
about 30 seconds. Add sweet peppers and
season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally,
until slightly softened and turning golden
brown, about 4 minutes. Return onions to
pan and toss to combine.
3. Add tomato paste and red pepper flakes
to pot and cook, stirring constantly, until
vegetables are coated and paste is slightly
darkened in color, about 2 minutes. Pour in
vinegar and cook, scraping up any browned
bits, 1 minute. Pour in 1½ cups water and
cook, stirring to incorporate, until liquid is
slightly reduced, about 1 minute.
4. Crack eggs into pan and cover skillet
(a baking sheet works great if you don’t
have a lid). Steam until whites are set but
yolks are still runny, about 3 minutes.
Uncover and season with black pepper
and sea salt and sprinkle some parsley
over. Serve with toast alongside for dipping.

2 4 M A R C H 2024

Table Talk

Dinner Is Served

Table Talk

ONE-POT
BROCCOLI MAC
AND CHEESE
The method for this cozy,
nostalgia-inducing dish
uses every shortcut we
could think of—boiling the
pasta right in the sauce
and skipping the need for
a roux by coating the
cheese with cornstarch
before dropping it in.
R E C I P E BY J E S S E S Z E W C Z Y K

4 – 6 S E RV I N G S

12 oz. Monterey Jack,
coarsely grated (about
3 cups)
12 oz. sharp cheddar,
coarsely grated (about
3 cups)
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 lb. lumache (snail shells)
or other medium shell
pasta
1 1-lb. bag or two
10–12.6-oz. bags
frozen broccoli florets,
preferably baby
2½ cups whole milk
1 tsp. English mustard
powder (such as
Colman’s)
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. Diamond
Crystal or 2¼ tsp.
Morton Kosher salt,
plus more
1 tsp. freshly ground
pepper, plus more
1. Toss together Monterey Jack
and cheddar in a large bowl
with your hands. Sprinkle
cornstarch over and toss again
until cheese is evenly coated.
Set cheese mixture aside.
2. Bring 5 cups water to a
boil in a large Dutch oven
or other heavy pot. Add pasta
and cook, stirring often to
keep pasta from sticking
to bottom of pot, until about
half of the water has been
absorbed and pasta is very
al dente, 7–9 minutes for most
pasta shapes (about 3 minutes
less than package directions).
3. Add broccoli and milk to
pot and return to a boil. Cook,
stirring often, until pasta and
broccoli are both tender but
not mushy, 2–3 minutes. (Taste
a piece of pasta to check.)
2 6 M A R C H 2024

4. Reduce heat to low and mix
in mustard powder, 1 Tbsp.
plus 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal
or 2¼ tsp. Morton Kosher
salt, and 1 tsp. pepper.
Add reserved cheese mixture

a handful at a time, stirring
after each addition until mostly
melted before adding more.
5. Remove pot from heat. Taste
mac and cheese and season

with more salt and pepper
if needed. Let sit, stirring
occasionally, until cheese
sauce has thickened
slightly before serving,
5–10 minutes.

Eliminate food and bacterial odors
for all-in protection.

Best in Town

Table Talk

The Eight Best Hot Dogs in Chicago
The Windy City’s iconic dish is a portrait of no-nonsense charm, crowned with a climbable mountain
of toppings. Our highly opinionated correspondent weighs in on the town’s top dogs.
BY DE NN I S L E E

P H O TOG RAPHS BY EVAN J ENKINS

A Depression dog (the
classic sans tomato and
pickle) at Redhot Ranch

Outsiders like to joke about how the Chicago-style hot dog is
a frankfurter with a salad on top. That isn’t far from the truth.
A classic version is loaded with diced onions, tomato slices,
shockingly neon green relish, a whole pickle spear, sport
peppers (a real type of pepper, by the way), mustard, celery
salt, and nestled (most often) into a poppy seed bun.
Chicago dogs were born out of necessity during the Great
Depression in the 1930s; they were cheap and made from
trimmings. After all, Chicago used to be a meat-processing
town. Street vendors would pile on a bevy of toppings
per customer request, which made each dog a square meal.
2 8 M A R C H 2024

And an affordable one, to boot. What settled after years of
adaptation was the final result you see today. It’s hard to pick
between the countless great hot dogs in Chicago, but as long
as the place looks somewhat banged up, the walls are sticky,
and there’s a steady line of customers, you’re golden.
These eight places represent my absolute favorites, and
they’ll give you a sense for how much creativity and care can
be packed into a bun. But if you make it through this list
and want more, ask nearly anyone on the street where to get
a hot dog. Their eyes will light up, and they’ll let you in on
their own passionate recommendations.

Best in Town
SUPERDAWG
Multiple locations
This local institution
originally opened in 1948
on the northwest side of town
by then newlywed couple,
the late Maurie and Flaurie
Berman (affectionately
represented by the two
massive hot dog mascots
at both locations). Order
the namesake Superdawg.
It comes with a special skinless
frankfurter that’s big, beefy,
and more boldly seasoned
than your typical Chicago
dog, plus a nontraditional
but delicious pickled green
tomato wedge, all served
in a small box absolutely
crammed with crinkle-cut
fries. If you have any room
left, sneak in an order of fried
shrimp, which are massive
and crisped to perfection.

CHICAGO
DOG DNA
Every place has its own
idiosyncratic version,
but the Platonic ideal of
a Chicago dog includes
these eclectic ingredients:

POPPY SEED BUN
BEEF FRANKFURTER
YELLOW MUSTARD
DICED WHITE ONIONS
TOMATOES
RELISH
PICKLE SPEAR
SPORT PEPPERS
CELERY SALT

JIMMY’S RED HOTS
4000 W. Grand Ave.
This place is a workhorse,
open until 1 a.m. daily, rain
or shine. There are no seats,
just a standing counter
to eat at and a steady stream
of customers popping in
and out. If you want to
experience a version of true
no-bullshit Chicago, visit
Jimmy’s and order a hot dog
with everything—which,
somewhat confusingly, comes
Depression-style (a more
minimalist version, topped
sparingly with yellow
mustard, onions, relish, and
sport peppers). Make sure
to get a side of homemade
smoky-sweet habanero-laced
hot sauce for your fries.

Founders Maurie (left)
and Flaurie Berman
in hot dog form

REDHOT RANCH AND
35TH STREET RED HOTS
Multiple locations
All three spots (including
one stand on the South Side
by what old-timers still call
Comiskey Park, where the
White Sox play) have a small
but exemplary menu of
hot dogs, burgers, and fried
shrimp. The double dog
with everything is the way
to go here, though the
architecture gets shaky—
two frankfurters put a lot
of pressure on the bun.
Don’t be embarrassed when
the thing falls apart while
you’re eating; it happens to
everyone. Revel in the mess.
3 0 M A R C H 2024

A duo from 35th Street
Red Hots, fully loaded

Table Talk
VIENNA BEEF
FACTORY STORE
3847 S. Morgan St.
Emil Reichel and Samuel
Ladany, two AustrianHungarian immigrants,
started selling their franks at
the World’s Fair in Chicago
in 1893. Now Vienna Beef
manufactures most of the
actual hot dogs you’ll find at
stands throughout Chicago.
If you want a hot dog done
strictly by the rules, head
to this little place, across
the street from the Vienna
Beef factory. And make
absolutely sure to pick up a
package of the natural-casing
frankfurters from the
refrigerated case—they’re
weirdly difficult to get at a
regular grocery store.

BYRON’S HOT DOGS
Multiple locations
One of the more unique
stands in Chicago, Byron’s
Hot Dogs started in 1975
by Byron Kouris, the son
of Greek immigrants. Kouris
died in 2012, and there’s
only two stands left, but
they’re beloved in the city.
The family-owned joint is
known for serving one of the
most over-the-top hot dogs
I’ve ever seen, adorned with
cucumber, lettuce, bell
pepper, plus the standard
trimmings. It is as difficult
to eat as you might imagine.
Go with a jumbo dog, which
balances out the salad with
the right amount of beef.

DAVE’S RED HOTS
3422 W. Roosevelt Rd.
There are only five options
on the menu at the oldest
hot dog stand in the city:
Polish sausages, Italian beef,
salami sandwiches, pastrami
sandwiches and, of course,
hot dogs. Dave’s was first
established in the 1930s, and
you can just feel the history
seeping through the dark
wood-paneled walls, small
booths, and countertop. Each
dog comes with hand-cut
fries. Ask for a side of cheese
sauce; they also have ketchup
packets, if you’re so inclined.

Local legend Murdock,
urban cowboy and Chicago
dog enthusiast, at Vienna
Beef Factory Store

for some of the best dogs in
the city and a staff that will
openly heckle you (don’t be
surprised if you hear a bunch
of F-bombs hurled your way).
During the day you’ll get
a more subdued atmosphere
and gentler conversation,
if that’s what you’re into.
A char dog with everything
is stellar, along with the tangy
cheddar spread on the side
for dipping your fries.

THE WIENERS CIRCLE

JEFF’S RED HOTS

2622 N. Clark St.
This legendary, rowdy place
for late-night food is known

3901 N. Cicero Ave.
Jeff ’s is about as classic as
a stand gets in Chicago,

serving up gyros, Italian beef
sandwiches, pizza puffs, and
other staples in addition to
top-notch hot dogs. What’s
unique about its particular
version is the addition of

one ingredient included on
the “everything”: sauerkraut.
It adds a welcome fermented
zippiness none of the other
ingredients in a classic
Chicago dog can provide.

ORDER LIKE A PRO
It’s as easy as saying you’ll have one with “everything,” which
usually comes with all the standard toppings. A char dog,
which is grilled instead of steamed or simmered, is also a great
variation. Diehards will tell you that asking for ketchup should get
you run out of town. Some places don’t even carry the condiment
(even for your fries). Expect some ribbing if you request it anyway!

M A R C H 2024 31

Fresh

the sky

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

There’s Luxury
in the Air

UNLOCK A RANGE OF EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES
WITH CATHAY’S NORTH AMERICAN
CO-BRANDED CREDIT CARDS
• Accelerated miles earning
• Priority check-in and
boarding

• Cathay Pacific Business Class
Lounge redemption
• Travel and lifestyle redemption
discount

LEARN MORE

US Credit Card

Canada Credit
Card

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

Moving
Passengers
Forward
Since 1946
What began as a mere seed of
ambition—for American Roy Farrell
and Australian Sydney de Kantzow’s
new airline to one day cross the vast
Pacific Ocean from China—has since
grown into something extraordinary.
In less than a century, Cathay Pacific
has garnered a deserved reputation as
Asia’s premier airline, redefining air
travel with exceptional service, luxury
amenities, and thoughtful touches along
the way. With Cathay Pacific, flying is
no longer about simply getting from
point A to point B, but about making

unforgettable memories that begin the
moment you book your voyage.
An inherent spirit of progress is what
continually propels Cathay Pacific
forward. Boasting a young fleet, Cathay
Pacific’s state-of-the-art aircraft offer
superior comfort and progressive
technology that transform long-haul
travel into a journey worth savoring.
With the ultra fuel-efficient A350
aircraft to help carbon offsetting,
Cathay Pacific carefully considers
every facet of the journey, honoring
its commitment to building a more
sustainable future.
Whether you’re headed to the buzzing
city of Hong Kong or merely stopping
over en route to discover Asia’s many
multifaceted destinations, Cathay
Pacific is perfectly poised to take your
travel experience to new heights. It’s
time to move beyond.

Architectural Digest, Bon Appétit and Condé Nast Traveler are registered trademarks
of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. Copyright © 2024 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

3

On the Mind

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

Hong Kong’s bustling street
markets come to life at night.

very traveler’s journey begins
with a dream—a vision to
expand horizons beyond what
you thought possible, to forge
meaningful connections with others,
and to experience moments that linger
long after your feet have touched the
ground. Start by choosing a destination
that inspires you, one that expands your
mind and delights your senses.

E

Once you’ve decided to take flight,
the real voyage begins. With exquisite
onboard service, an award-winning
catalog of in-flight entertainment,
and impeccable dining inspired by the
flavors of Hong Kong, Cathay Pacific
makes the journey just as memorable as
the destination.

It Begins Here:
Hong Kong
Since connecting North America
with Asia in 1983, Cathay Pacific has
seamlessly connected the West to the
Eastq Today, the award-winning airline
operates more nonstop flights to Hong
Kong than any other, with departures
from major cities including Los Angeles,
San Francisco, Vancouver, Toronto,
Chicago, Boston, and New Yorkq As
you embark on your bucket-list trip,
delight in the vibrant streets of Hong
Kong. Home to towering skyscrapers,
impressive mountain ranges, and
ribbons of sparkling coastline, Hong
Kong offers a surprising mix of
cosmopolitan bustle and tranquil
outdoor spaceq Discover late-night
shopping and ancient temples as you
get acquainted with one of China’s most
multifaceted cities. It begins here.
5

Allow Bali to take
your breath away.

Uncover the Wonder of
Southeast Asia
Thailand | Upon disembarking
from a relaxing flight that left you
entertained, rested, and well-fed,
you’ll find yourself aptly prepared for
the vivacity of Bangkok. A city lit in
dazzling technicolor, Bangkok is a land
of contrasts—from the majestic Grand
Palace perched on the banks of the
Chao Phraya River to the astounding
floating markets selling fresh fruits,
vegetables, and local trinkets.
Bali | From the moment you touch
down in Denpasar, you’ll begin to feel
the magnetic pull of Bali, Indonesia’s
island oasis. A true choose-your-ownadventure destination, Bali offers
captivating beauty and culture to
travelers of all sensibilities. Catch a
6

rolling wave or soak up the golden
sun at a volcanic sand beach. Discover
dense rainforests teeming with wildlife,
partake in a yoga retreat tucked into a
pristine mountain hideaway, or simply
marvel at the myriad of spiritually
enriching sights, like the Tegalalang
Rice Terrace or Uluwatu Temple.
Vietnam | For adventure and culture
seekers, there is no better destination
than Vietnam. Best explored from North
to South, begin in the fascinating capital
of Hanoi, where fragrant, flavorful
dishes and centuries-old architecture
beckon. Hội An awaits just south, a
beguiling riverside enclave defined
by its Japanese, Chinese, and French
cultural influences. Continue along to
discover Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s
largest and most enchanting city.

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

Venture to India
and Beyond
India | When you set your sights on
some of the most far-flung corners of
the globe, you can count on Cathay
Pacific to get you there in comfort
and style. A seamless connection
from Hong Kong to India’s Delhi
begins your journey. Embrace Delhi’s
frenetic energy as you indulge in the
rich, complex flavors of local dishes.
Venturing next to Agra, delight in one of
the Seven Wonders of the World, the Taj
Mahal. The Pink City of Jaipur rounds
out your visit. Marvel at the Palace of
the Winds, from which women of the
royal court would once discreetly watch
the city beneath them.

Explore the clear waters
of the Philippines.

The Philippines | More than 7,000
islands make up the Philippines, a
paradise offering endless opportunities
for sun-soaked exploration. Begin in
the capital city of Manila, situated on a
sparkling bay on Luzon Island. Visit the
ancient treasures housed within the
city’s fortified old town, Intramuros, like
Fort Santiago and the Manila Cathedral.
Breathtaking beaches await on the
nearby island of Palawan, often referred
to as some of the most beautiful shores
in the world. Venture to a mind-blowing
subterranean river in Puerto Princesa,
rich with pristine ecology and a
complex underwater cave system.

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

hough most of your journey
will be spent soaring above
the clouds, every trip begins
and ends with two feet
planted firmly on the ground. When
taking flight with Cathay Pacific,
access to an array of exquisite lounges
in Hong Kong International Airport
creates a journey bookended by the
refined comfort you crave. Authentic
Hong Kong touches are infused in
every facet of the lounge experience,
from elegant design to thoughtful
sensory details to the warm,
anticipatory hospitality you’ve come
to expect. Embrace the tranquility
of Cathay Pacific’s lounge offerings,
each of which boasts a little something
unique. It’s time to recharge.

T

The First-Class
Experience
The Wing, First | Hong Kong
International Airport, Terminal 1,
Near Gates 1-4
A chilled glass of prestigious Krug
Champagne at a stunning red leather
Champagne bar to welcome you. A chic,
temperature-controlled cabana with
a plush daybed, a large bath and rain
shower stocked with premium Bamford
products, and ample working space for
pure rejuvenation. A dining experience
with coursed wine pairings from the
award-winning cellar to satisfy any
palate. The Wing, First is a haven for
relaxation and indulgence. Come in and
stay a while—you’ll be transported into
a sanctuary of splendor and ease, wholly
recharged for your travels ahead.

Experience first-class luxury
inside The Pier, First at HKG.

On the

Ground

A DV E R T I S E M E N T
The Dining Room at
The Pier, First.

The Pier, First | Hong Kong
International Airport, Terminal 1,
Near Gate 63
A visit to the Studioilse-designed The
Pier, First is a journey of the senses. A
soothing, signature fragrance of jasmine
and bamboo delicately wafts through
the air, intentionally designed acoustics
create a gentleness of sound, and
warm lighting plays on calming natural
materials for a zen hideaway unlike
any other. Bask in the rejuvenating
ambiance of The Retreat, a dedicated
wellness area boasting private day
suites and indulgent spa offerings like
a scalp and shoulder massage. When it
comes time to dine, inspired options
await. The Dining Room’s a la carte
menu offers rotating seasonal dishes
enjoyed from stylish, deep green leather
banquettes, while the walnut woodpaneled bar acts as an elegant milieu for
sipping signature cocktails.

The Bar at
The Pier, First.

A Reimagined
Business Class
The Wing, Business | Hong Kong
International Airport, Terminal 1,
Near Gate 2
Recharge and unwind at this expansive
refuge. Sip a flute of Champagne or a
glass of fine wine at the gleaming white
marble masterpiece that is the Long Bar
as you take in unobstructed views of
the tarmac just beyond. Order a frothy
cappuccino pick-me-up at the Coffee
Loft and proceed to a fully functional
workstation to check things off of your
to-do list pre-flight.

The Retreat at
The Pier, First.

As soon as you walk into the Vancouver
Lounge, you may just never want to leave.

The Pier, Business | Hong Kong
International Airport, Terminal 1,
Near Gate 65
Modeled after seminal Hong Kong
experiences, this Studioilse-designed
lounge is best enjoyed at your own pace.
Cathay Pacific’s largest lounge invites
travelers to savor the city’s flavors and
home comforts at several exquisitely
designed spaces, from the exceptional
Teahouse to the signature Noodle Bar.
Freshen up in a luxury rain shower
and recharge at an optimally outfitted
workstation as you prepare for your
upcoming travels.

The Deck | Hong Kong International
Airport, Terminal 1,
Near Gate 6
Designed to emulate a cozy, refined
living room, Cathay Pacific’s newest
lounge experience beckons those

seeking uninterrupted comfort. Inviting
designer furniture, softened acoustics,
and warm, natural materials culminate
in a lounge created to make you feel
right at home. Custom-built side tables
and chairs add an additional touch of
elegance, while a curated selection
of art and music further set the
welcoming tenor.

Beyond Hong Kong:
San Francisco Lounge
and Vancouver Lounge
For those globetrotters traveling
beyond Hong Kong, access the splendid
comforts of Cathay Pacific’s lounge
experience at two key airports in North
America. Whether you’re flying from
San Francisco or Vancouver, a signature
lounge awaits. Cathay Pacific offers
partner lounges in other cities where
signature lounges are not available.
11

On the Plate

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

our journey culminates with
the tastes of forthcoming
destinations—flavors that tell
the unique stories of a place
and a people. Whether indulging in a
fine, multicourse meal at the lounge
or having a bite to eat in-flight, a
memorable dining experience is
always just around the corner. Cathay
Pacific’s thoughtfully curated menus
will delight any palate, preparing you
for the exquisite flavors of your final
destination. A seamless melding of
Cathay Pacific’s rich Hong Kong roots
and Western touches might look like
a dim sum breakfast followed by a
delightful hamburger for lunch—always
fresh, always delicious.

Y

From the fragrant Sichuanese dan
dan noodles served fresh in the
signature Hong Kong Noodle Bar
to two bespoke flavors of JING tea
sourced from the finest gardens across
China and Japan, Cathay Pacific’s
commitment to culinary innovation
continually raises the bar for what
an airline dining experience should
look and taste like. No matter what
your dietary preference, a breadth of
mouthwatering options are always
on the menu—including a generous
selection of vegan and vegetarian
cuisine.

fhe rich, complex flavors of Hong Kong
come to life in Business class.

13

A DV E R T I S E M E N T
A flavor-forward homage to
Cathay Pacific’s home city.

The Flavors of
Hong Kong
Savor the flavors of Hong Kong at
Cathay Pacific’s network of premier
First-and Business-class lounges, the
most sought-after dining destinations in
Hong Kong International Airport. With
menus designed to encapsulate the
distinctive culinary heritage of Cathay
Pacific’s home city, let your cravings be
your guide. Will you opt for a proper
sit-down dining experience with a
rotating selection of a la carte options
and curated wine pairings? Perhaps
you’re seeking a frothy cappuccino and
a quick sweet treat? You set the pace
and indulge your palate accordingly.

Seasonal menus featuring fresh,
sustainably sourced ingredients.

Whether preparing for your journey
or being welcomed home, you’ll find
comfort in the impeccable dishes
served at Cathay Pacific’s signature
Noodle Bar. Enjoy a bowl of Sichuanese
dan dan noodles or a plate of steaming
char siu buns, always made with
the freshest, most locally sourced
ingredients. Embark on a sensorial
journey at the Teahouse located in The
Pier, Business lounge, which offers an
interactive menu of fine teas sourced
from around the world. For a bit of
everything, visit the lounge’s food-hallstyle market, abound with dishes and
snacks sure to satisfy any craving.

Exceptional Flavors
at 35,000 Feet
The culinary journey continues in
flight, defying expectations with
unequivocally elevated cuisine. Explore
the world as you’re flying above it with
a selection of fresh dishes spotlighting
carefully sourced ingredients. Dining

Fragrant dim sum, available in First class.

options vary by cabin class, but you’ll
find boundary-pushing standards
across the board, from Cathay Pacific’s
noodles on demand to wellness-centric
options featuring innovative plantbased meal choices.
While flying First or Business class,
prepare to be ushered into a world
of epicurean opulence. Get a taste of
luxury with a glass of Champagne and
sustainably sourced Kaluga Queen
caviar, sip a delicate cup of hot JING tea,
or indulge in a Hong Kong-style claypot
rice—and that’s just the start. Premium
Economy and Economy passengers alike
can delight in a diverse menu of regional
fare, like Cathay Pacific’s signature
Hong Kong egg tarts served warm as
a mid-flight treat along with other
flavorful meal options.

Cathay Pacific’s signature experiences
further enhance the already-stellar
offerings—an award-winning wine
selection, freshly brewed coffee, and
Betsy beer, the world’s first hand
crafted beer specifically brewed to be
enjoyed at 35,000 feet. You’ll be utterly
satisfied by the time you touch down
at your final destination, refueled, and
ready to explore.

Elevated epicurean delights
await in Business class.

15

Hello Hong Kong

Embrace the world of art and culture from
mesmerizing museums to eclectic street art. Savor
authentic street eats or Michelin-starred meals,
then indulge in electric nightlife. Immerse yourself
in stunning natural beauty that’s 30 minutes from
the urban center. Hong Kong always surprises and
is always ready for you to discover.
discoverhongkong.com

cathay.com/feelsgoodtomove

out of
Enjoy freshly baked egg tarts
and more local flavors in the skies

Feels good to move

The Bon Appétit 56

PPÉT
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56
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N A PPÉTIT
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BO

Since printing our first issue in 1956, Bon Appétit has
published tens of thousands of recipes. It would take literal
decades to cook them all. So our editors combed our
humongous archive and curated the 56 recipes you must
make this year, from upgraded sloppy joes to rightfully
famous cookies. You can find the full list on our website
by scanning the QR code below, and we’ll be highlighting
a staff favorite each month in print. Let’s cook.

KIMCHI
UDON WITH
SCALLIONS
WHY WE LOVE IT

4 SERVINGS

Andy Baraghani’s Kimchi Udon With
Scallions is the 21st century’s answer
to carbonara—an iconically simple noodle
dish that leans on ingredients that define
the modern home cook’s pantry. This
recipe swaps the spaghetti for slippery,
bouncy udon, and in place of the
pecorino and guanciale is an umamipacked sauce made from melted butter,
gochujang, and kimchi. An egg yolk
set atop each bowl of noodles turns the
sauce even richer and glossier. Since
it was published in the October 2016
issue of Bon Appétit, I’ve made it for
breakfasts, for hurried weeknight dinners,
and for late-night meals when the fridge
is almost empty. Once you get the hang of
whisking gochujang and chopped kimchi
into a bubbling pool of melted butter,
you’ll find yourself drizzling this combo
over everything in sight. –Anna Hezel

If you don’t have access to storebought udon and don’t feel like
making your own, 12 oz. of a
thicker dried noodle like bucatini
will work well instead.

5
1

Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
cup finely chopped kimchi, plus
⅓ cup kimchi juice
2 Tbsp. gochujang (Korean hot
pepper paste)
½ cup low-sodium chicken or
vegetable broth
1 lb. fresh or frozen udon noodles
Kosher salt (optional)
4 large egg yolks, room
temperature
3 scallions, white and pale green
parts only, thinly sliced on a
diagonal
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L A U . F O O D ST Y L I N G BY S U E L I . P R O P ST Y L I N G BY E L I Z A B E T H J A I M E .

Heat 2 Tbsp. butter in a large skillet
over medium-high. Add chopped
kimchi and gochujang and cook,
stirring occasionally, until kimchi is
softened and lightly browned, about
4 minutes. Add broth and kimchi
juice and bring to a simmer. Cook
until liquid is slightly reduced, about
3 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook noodles in a
large pot of boiling water according
to package directions.
Using tongs, transfer noodles to
skillet with sauce and add remaining
3 Tbsp. butter. Cook, tossing often,
until sauce coats noodles, about
2 minutes. Taste and season with salt
if needed.
Divide noodles among bowls and
top each with an egg yolk, then scatter
scallions and sesame seeds over.

Table Talk

Scan the QR code
to see the full
Bon Appétit 56
and to access our
archive of more
than 60,000 recipes.

M A R C H 2024 51

Table Talk

Pick of the Pantry

Raisin the Bar
Dried grapes lend a sweet-sour versatility that can upgrade any weeknight dinner
BY E M M A L A P E R R U Q U E

RECIP ES BY REB ECCA FIRKS ER

P HO TO GRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA

I might have been the only kid who liked getting raisins more
than candy on Halloween. Embarrassing then, but it seems as
though I was in good company: Raisins are the most popular
dried fruit in the world. And not just because of microwaved
oatmeal or peanut buttered celery. There’s a whole lot these
morsels can do beyond snacktime.
While you’re probably most familiar with the dark purple
kind, there are hundreds out there, each one offering their own
charms. Thompsons (also known as sultanas) are soft, plump,
and chewy. Kashmiri green raisins are oblong and pulpy. Zantes,
one of the oldest varietals, are intensely flavored, tart, and come
from tiny Champagne grapes. My favorites are golden raisins,
tangy in taste and glowy in color (thanks to the common preservative sulfur dioxide). If you’re looking to stock your pantry,
despite its name, nuts.com is a raisin paradise for petite, jumbo,
crimson, flame, royal types, and more. (Did you know some
currants are technically raisins too?) You can even snag a medley
to sample an array of jewel-toned and fruity options.
Though great by the handful or mixed into desserts, they’re
stunning in savory dishes. Especially during chillier months, when
fresh produce is few and far between, raisins add a jolt of sunshine
to dinner, like in the recipes that follow. They balance the richness of skillet chicken when sizzled right into the schmaltz. They
can also get blitzed, with a good kick of acid, for a zesty vinaigrette.
Or they can soften into pleasant pops of sweetness for a pasta
laced with olives and crumbled feta.
Think of them like a pair of gold hoops—a little somethingsomething to elevate any outfit from everyday to a dazzler.

EMMA’S TIP
Store raisins in an airtight container or bag. If you
can’t use up the batch within a few months, stick them
in the fridge to extend their shelf life.

5 2 M A R C H 2024

F O O D ST Y L I N G BY S E A N D O O L E Y

ADVERTISEMENT

Pick of the Pantry

VINEGARY CHICKEN
WITH RAISINS

2

4 – 6 S E RV I N G S

Meet your new go-to dinner
party dish. The schmaltzy
fat left over from searing
skin-on chicken thighs forms
the base of a rich and tangy
pan sauce with pops of
sweetness from golden
raisins. Bonus for whoever’s
doing the dishes: The whole
thing comes together in
one pan.

3

lb. skin-on, bone-in
chicken thighs (6–8)
Kosher salt
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Extra-virgin olive oil
(optional)
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely
chopped
½ cup raisins, preferably
golden or green
5 4 M A R C H 2024

1
5

Freshly ground pepper
Tbsp. (or more) sherry
vinegar or red wine
vinegar
Tbsp. unsalted butter
oz. baby arugula or
mixed tender greens
(about 6 cups)
Country-style bread
(for serving; optional)

Place a rack in middle of oven;
preheat to 475°. Season
chicken on both sides with
salt. Heat vegetable oil in
a large ovenproof skillet over
medium. Arrange chicken,
skin side down, in skillet and
cook, undisturbed, rotating
pan occasionally for even
browning, until thighs release
easily from pan and skin is
golden brown, 8–12 minutes.
Turn chicken over.
Transfer skillet to oven
and roast chicken until cooked
through and skin is deep

golden brown (an instant-read
thermometer inserted into
thickest part of a thigh should
register 165°), 12–15 minutes.
Transfer chicken to a cutting
board, leaving fat behind, and
let rest 5–10 minutes.
Carefully pour fat in skillet
into a heatproof measuring
glass until you have ½ cup
(top off with olive oil if short);
reserve any excess fat for
another use.
Add ½ cup fat back to
skillet and heat over medium.
Add shallot, garlic, and
raisins; season with salt and
pepper. Cook, stirring often,
until mixture is fragrant and
shallot is slightly softened,
about 2 minutes. Stir in
vinegar and cook, stirring,
until sauce is slightly reduced,
about 1 minute. Remove from
heat and add butter, stirring
until melted and sauce is
slightly thickened and creamy.

Taste pan sauce and add more
vinegar and/or season with
more salt if needed.
Arrange arugula on a platter
or divide among plates and
spoon half of pan sauce over.
Arrange chicken on top and
spoon remaining pan sauce
over; season with more pepper.
Serve with bread if desired.

RAISIN VINAIGRETTE
ANY LETTUCE WILL LOVE
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

Think of this sweet-andsour dressing as a classic
vinaigrette mashed up with
Italian agrodolce. Briefly
presoaking the shallot and
raisins (any color will do)
in vinegar allows them
to soften slightly while
rounding out the rougher
flavors of each ingredient.

Table Talk

1

small shallot, finely
chopped
½ cup raisins (black, red,
and/or golden), finely
chopped
¼ cup (or more) white or red
wine vinegar
Kosher salt
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. (or more) honey
Freshly ground pepper
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Stir together shallot, raisins,
and vinegar in a medium
bowl; season with salt.
Let sit at room temperature
5–10 minutes.
Whisk mustard and honey
into shallot mixture to combine;
season with pepper. Slowly
stream in oil, whisking
constantly until emulsified.
Taste vinaigrette and whisk in
more vinegar and/or honey
and season with more salt
and/or pepper if needed.

D O A H E A D : Vinaigrette can
be made 1 week ahead. Cover
and chill.

PASTA WITH FETA,
OLIVES, AND RAISINS
4 S E RV I N G S

When dinnertime looms and
inspiration is scarce, this
pantry pasta will be there for
you. Raisins make an unlikely
starring appearance; they
swell and plump in the pasta
cooking liquid and balance
the briny intensity of feta
and chile-oil-sizzled olives.

12 oz. rigatoni, cavatappi, or
other short pasta
Kosher salt
¾ cup golden raisins
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 oil-packed anchovies
(optional)

1

cup pitted Castelvetrano
olives, coarsely chopped
2 tsp. Aleppo-style pepper
or other mild red pepper
flakes, plus more for
serving
Zest of 1 lemon
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
4 oz. feta, crumbled
½ cup coarsely chopped
parsley, plus leaves for
serving
1 Tbsp. (or more) fresh
lemon juice
Cook pasta in a large pot of
boiling salted water, stirring
occasionally and adding
raisins after 5 minutes, until
very al dente, about 3 minutes
less than package directions.
Drain, reserving 2 cups pasta
cooking liquid; reserve pot.
Heat oil in a small saucepan
over medium. Add anchovies
(if using), olives, and 2 tsp.
Aleppo-style pepper. Cook,

stirring occasionally and
breaking up anchovies, until
mixture is fragrant and oil
turns slightly orange in color,
about 3 minutes. Remove from
heat and stir in lemon zest
and garlic; season with salt.
Return pasta and raisins
to reserved pot; add feta and
1 cup pasta cooking liquid.
Cook over medium heat, tossing
vigorously, until feta is starting
to melt and coat pasta and
pasta is al dente, about
1 minute. Remove from heat
and add anchovy mixture,
chopped parsley, and lemon
juice. Cook, tossing vigorously
and adding more pasta
cooking liquid if needed, until
combined and pasta is coated,
about 1 minute. Taste and add
more lemon juice and/or
season with more salt if needed.
Divide pasta among shallow
bowls; top with parsley leaves
and more Aleppo-style pepper.
M A R C H 2024 5 5

The Little Things

Bank’s Closed,
Tab’s Open
Wilmington, Delaware’s Simmer Down is a historic
bank vault turned bar filled with splashy details
BY M E GA N WA H N

P H OTOG RAPHS BY S ETH CAPL AN

Kristin Crawford remembers when she first walked through the
space that would become Simmer Down. She’d just started as a
bar supervisor and the renovations were ongoing. The veined forest green marble bar top had been installed, but the fantastical
mural that would grow to span the entire room was only half finished.
“I was just like: ‘This room? This is going to be something special,’”
Crawford says.
Simmer Down is the basement cocktail lounge of The Quoin, a
boutique hotel housed in a Gilded Age–era bank. The bar occupies
what was the Security Trust & Safe Deposit Co.’s “money room,”
a space used to store cash, jewels, furs, and, allegedly, the most
silver coins in the United States. Designer and Method Co. creative
director Daniel Olsovsky used this swanky history as inspiration
when he crafted the space.
As you sit on the custom mohair banquettes and sip on a Stalks
& Bonds, an effervescent strawberry-corn cocktail, the bar’s whimsical details slowly come into focus. Maybe you’ll notice Delaware’s
own Joe Biden among a patch of red-capped mushrooms in the
painting behind you or the medieval-tapestry-inspired pattern on
the chairs. Playful elements like these speak to Delaware’s rich history and make for a drinking experience filled with little surprises.

Vaulted Ceilings
The fireproof vaulted brick ceilings date back
to 1885. Crawford shares it’s often the first thing
customers see, and they wonder if it’s real. “I’m
like, ‘Oh, no, we have mortar dust that we have
to clean up at the beginning of the shift to prove
that it’s original,’” she jokes.

Painted Mural
Who needs windows when you have a
hypnotic wraparound mural custom-painted
by Reverend Michael Alan? Crawford says
she notices something new every time she
looks at it. Walking fish with top hats, iconic
buildings on Wilmington’s Market Street, the
World War II observation towers of Tower Beach.
Olsovsky’s own father—who passed away during
the mural’s painting curation—can be seen
fishing on the glimmering Delaware beaches.

Table Talk

Embroidered Leather Chairs
The creative director also wanted a variety
of comfortable seating that would make it
easy for guests to chat and maneuver. These
swivel leather chairs were reupholstered
with chintz-style fabric from House of Hackney
in England that features lions, leopards,
peacocks, and turtles (oh my!), all wandering
through a meadow of fairy-tale foliage.

Vintage Trays
All the vintage trays used for cocktails,
bitters, and tinctures were sourced from
nearby antique stores in the Brandywine
Valley and Longwood Garden areas. Their
subtle differences add charm; this one
features beaded edges while others have
delicate surface engravings.

Cocktail Ice
Cube Stamp
The design theme
goes beyond the
walls and fixtures and
can even be seen in
the drinks themselves.
Simmer Down
bartenders use a
custom brass stamp
to emboss large
ice cubes with a bold
“QW” for the “Quion
Wilmington,” a nod
to the stamped silver
coins once stored
in the bank’s vault.

Big Green Lamps
Olsovsky didn’t want to clutter the vaulted
ceiling with overhead lights, so he needed to
get creative with how he lit the space. These
oversized vintage lamps with vine-patterned,
green tasseled shades are a nod to the bank
tellers’ lamps from the same era.
M A R C H 2024 57

PORTLAND

RE TO EAT IN
E
H
W

58

THE ROSE
CITY’S
DINING
SCENE IS
BETTER
THAN EVER
BY JORDAN MICHELMAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY COLE WILSON

Portland, Oregon, is a city of contradictions.
It’s where viridescent forests mingle with
urban streets beneath an iconic towering pink
skyscraper. It’s also where one can find the
gleaming Adidas and Nike campuses sitting
alongside some of the West Coast’s oldest
continually operated bars and restaurants—
history and modernity colliding below the
same blue-gray skies. This place is bigger,
weirder, and more vibrant than you’ve ever
heard, endlessly idiosyncratic and of itself.
But, above all else, Portland—home to
some 600,000 residents—is the kind of place
where every conversation inevitably leads
back to food. With countless chic bistros,
buzzy national-award winners, and charming
little cafés, it continues to be one of this country’s finest food cities. These restaurants draw
endless inspiration from the Pacific Northwest’s stunning surroundings and an abundance of local produce.
During the pandemic the dreamlike atmosphere of Portland ran headlong into new
challenges as restaurateurs grappled with
rising costs of goods, labor shortages, and
increased rent prices. With growth and
change came turnover and strife; oncepioneering restaurants like Pok Pok, Beast,
Paley’s Place, and Clyde Common have closed
in recent years.
Despite such changes, this town’s revered
food and beverage scene continues to innovate in exciting ways, arguing loudly for itself
as a major American food destination. Chefs
continue to move here from other parts of
the country, enticed by the opportunity to
cook for a restaurant-obsessed public.
Gone are the “put a bird on it” Portlandia
days. Lately what’s on our minds isn’t so
kitschy. Maybe it’s even a little earnest:
“Where are we eating next?”

Turmeric noodle mì qu ng with
toppings and sauces galore at Hà VL
59

MORNING
PASTRIES ON A VOLCANO…
AND SOUP THAT MIGHT
SAVE YOUR LIFE

Portland is built right into the forest, with
evergreen trees and massive mountains
looming in the distance. Start your day by
taking a short hike up to Mount Tabor, an
extinct volcano within city limits that serves
as a public playground for locals.
First visit Coquine Market for some of
the city’s best pastries. Along with chocolate

60

chip brioche, sweet and savory scones,
jalapeño cheese sticks, and a rightly famous
smoked almond and salted caramel cookie,
the market serves tasty coffee drinks from
local roaster Coava. It’s an airy shop that
would be just as at home in the French
countryside, run by husband-and-wife team
Ksandek Podbielski and Katy Millard (who
also helm Coquine’s acclaimed sister restaurant next door). Aside from café fare,
you’ll also find local produce and wines,
sandwiches, and snacks. With coffee and
goodies in hand, head over to nearby Mount
Tabor Park, a gently sloping zigzag network
of walking trails and play areas with plenty
of fresh air and breathtaking views.
If you’re in need of something more
substantial for breakfast, Hà VL and Rose

VL Deli are the ideal destinations. Peter
and Loan Vuong’s family-run Vietnamese
soup shops serve a menu of soul-reviving
items, like pho and bún, that change daily.
No official website exists, but this place
is so popular, you can track the revolving
offerings and hours on a fan-run tribute
page. Most Portlanders have a favorite
special; mine is the turmeric noodle mì
qu ng, a yellow pork broth flecked with
peanuts, ground pork, and shrimp,
topped with a slice of Vietnamese meatloaf and a sesame rice cracker. There is
no hangover this bowl cannot defeat.
And in some great news for VL fans, a
third location, Annam VL, opened in
late 2023, dedicated to street food and
“unfamiliar regional soups.”

CLOCKWISE
FROM RIGHT:

Hi Books; a canelé
and cortado
at Courier
Coffee; Hà VL’s
nourishing noodle
soups; Loan
Vuong, co-owner
of the much-loved
VL restaurants

Great coffee came early
to Portland. Third-wave
pioneer Stumptown
opened its first shop in
1999, and now, 25 years
ESPRESSO IN A
later, the city is packed
PORTAL TO JAPAN
with solid options in
every neighborhood.
Courier Coffee, a
lovely local roaster, is also home to co-owner Sakiko Setaka’s
Japanese shaved ice and snack project, Soen. From spring to
fall she serves cooling kakigori flavors like green tea mochi
and seasonal peach, and year-round offers delicate sweet inari
and fresh-wrapped hand rolls, plus a sharply curated range
of green teas imported from Japan. Get a coffee and a deliciously custardy canelé or the excellent green tea (served with
a huge spear of hand-cut ice), then take in the soundtrack of
punk music punctuated by the happy whir of the imported
shaved ice machine.
Around the corner you’ll find Powell’s Books, the largest
independent bookshop in America. This is a required visit for
any out-of-towner, but don’t stop there. You can explore nearby
Hi Books, a charming independent bookstore with a focus on
art and photography. And further afield you’ll find Green
Bean Books, a children’s bookshop, as well as Third Eye Books,
which features authors from the African diaspora.

MIDDAY

61

LUNCH
AN INDONESIAN
DISCOTHEQUE OR
A DELICIOUS DIVE
BAR HIDEOUT

Thomas and Mariah PishaDuffly have made a name for
themselves with their growing
group of bars and restaurants
across the city. Whether putting
chili-shrimp jam on a cheeseburger or spooning sambal into
cocktail sauce, they view Indonesian and Peranakan cuisine
through a distinctly Portland
lens that’s casual, modern, and
most of all, fun.
Oma’s Hideaway, their playfully maximalist restaurant,
makes for a groovy, spirited
lunch retreat. The menu
includes spicy laksa noodles,
salted egg yolk curry fries, and
a Filet-O-Fish riff made with
fried fish balls.
Aside from the interior
design, which glitters like a
kaleidoscopic disco, perhaps
the biggest perk here is that
you can make a reservation for
lunch—a scarce option in this
city. The restaurant’s location
on SE Division is perfect for a
post-lunch walk to check out
shops, galleries, and more bars.
Or hop in a car for a short
drive to the north part of Portland, where you’ll find great
record stores like Mississippi
Records, vintage clothing shops
like Zero Wave, and public
green spaces, including Peninsula Park and its rose garden.
These destinations also set
you up nicely for a visit to Tulip
Shop Tavern. This neighborhood watering hole serves very
good upscale bar food, with
deceptively normcore weekly
specials (patty melts on Mondays, hot chicken on Thursdays) executed with low-key,
high-end precision. Like any
good dive, the bar has a dark,
mellow atmosphere, but look
closer and you’ll find one of
the city’s best drinks programs,
with local beer and outstanding
cocktails. Tulip Shop feels
reminiscent of Old Portland—
everyone here looks like they
might play in a metal band or
work part-time at a bike shop.
62

A psychedlic spread
at Oma’s Hideaway
OPPOSITE:

Mississippi Records

THE ESSENTIALS
SOUVENIR FOR
THE ROAD

FUN FOR THE
WHOLE FAM

HOME AWAY
FROM HOME

Jacobsen Salt Co.
harvests their bounty
from Netarts Bay on the
northern Oregon coast.
A box will make a lovely
and practical reminder
of your trip. Their handy
half-ounce tins are
especially giftable.

The city’s cultural center,
Oregon Museum of
Science and Industry
(OMSI), is home to
innovative exhibitions
and the region’s largest
planetarium. Adults
can hang out after dark
with a local brew in hand.

The Jupiter Hotel,
a midcentury motor
lodge, and sleek Jupiter
Next are located side
by side on East Burnside
Street. Next’s cocktail
lounge Hey Love is
considered one of the best
hotel bars in America.

63

Plugged-in visitors to the Portland food scene
are likely to focus on getting a reservation at
Kann, chef Gregory Gourdet’s multi-lauded
Haitian dinner experience, which rightly
landed on Bon Appétit’s Best New Restaurants
A HOLY GRAIL BOOKING
list in 2023. But booking a table here has
(AND SOME STELLAR
become something of a contact sport—you’ll
BACKUP PLANS)
need to set your alarm a month in advance,
or else haunt the restaurant’s Instagram for
last-minute openings. If you do snag a spot,
you’ll be rewarded with twice-cooked pork griyo, smoked cauliflower in jerk coconut sauce, and molecularly perfect rice and beans.
A seat at Langbaan is easier to obtain but just as much a treat. For a decade now,
the restaurant—led by executive chef-owner Akkapong Earl Ninsom—has pushed
the boundaries of Thai food in America. The new location is ensconced inside the
also excellent but far more casual Phuket Cafe. Scallops in coconut cream, sweet
yet complex pineapple curry mussels, crunchy morsels of Thai fried chicken, and
taro cake in Thai iced tea egg yolk custard await.
Jeju, a modern interpretation of Korean barbecue, should be on your short list
too. Chef-owners Peter Cho and Sun Young Park, whose restaurants Toki and Han
Oak have helped define Portland’s dining landscape, opened their latest venture
in summer 2023. The set-course menu features plump mandu with bone-brothfortified black vinegar, an inventive assortment of craft cocktails and Korean sool
(a range of Korean alcoholic drinks), and a rotating main course based around
whole-animal butchery (think pork shoulder alongside spicy sausage) sourced from
small Pacific Northwest meat purveyors. Cho serves his mother’s recipe for kimchi
as part of the banchan, and dinner finishes with fluffy bowls of bingsu with malty
misugaru crumbles and fresh berries in every bite.

DINNER

OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT: Executive chef Kitsanaruk Ketkuaviriyanont, chef de cuisine
Jonathan Maristela, restaurateur Akkapong Earl Ninsom, and pastry chef Maya Erickson
of Langbaan and Phuket Cafe. BELOW: Modern bo ssam at Jeju.

WORTH
THE SIDE
TRIP
One of the most exciting
restaurants in Portland
right now is actually an hour
or so south of the city. Chef
Matthew Lightner’s Ōkta is
located in the Willamette Valley
hamlet of McMinnville and
makes for a delightful day trip.
The restaurant centers on
hyper-locavore Oregon fine
dining, with a menu built on
seasonality, produce from the
restaurant’s farm, and curated
wine pairings from sommelier
Ron Acierto. If you aren’t up
for the commute back to the city,
stay the night at the Tributary
Hotel upstairs. It’s luxurious
yet understated and offers a
remarkable in-room breakfast
service from the Ōkta team.

65

LATE
NIGHT
A SECOND DINNER
WITH YOUR NIGHTCAP

A quirk of frontier law requires all drinking
establishments in the state of Oregon to serve
food whenever liquor is available. In modern times this means our best barrooms are
also home to wildly good food, and a casual

66

after-dinner drink can easily turn into a whole
other meal. The subterranean Scotch Lodge
is a portal into the world of Tommy Klus,
a noted whiskey obsessive and collector of
rare bottles. The modern classic Penicillin
cocktail comes fully upgraded here with
culty Ardbeg and Auchentoshan whiskies.
Even if you’re not particularly hungry, you
cannot leave without trying the giant fried
soft-shell crab sandwich with white kimchi
and shallots, served on pillowy milk bread.
And speaking of hard-to-find bottles,
explore the vivid world of agave spirits at
Comala, home to more than 85 types of
small-producer mezcals and tequilas, each
served with a story portraying the proud
artisan craft distilling culture of Mexico.

For wine, the glass list at wine bar Heavenly Creatures is consistently impressive.
The knowledgeable staff can suggest pours
from coveted Burgundy and Loire Valley
producers alongside more local selections
from winemakers like the Color Collector
and Morgen Long, all in Portland’s version
of a little Parisian caviste. While wine is
undoubtedly the focus, the chefs are doing
remarkable work. How about a comte-curry
spring pea samosa with your glass of Chenin
Blanc? Or gorgeous whipped rice pudding
in burnt orange sauce with a splash of
Macvin du Jura to end the night?
Although who says the night ends here?
In Portland there’s always something new
to try tomorrow.

Soft-shell crab sandwich
and Penicillin cocktail
at Scotch Lodge
OPPOSITE: A small feast
at Heavenly Creatures

S

F OO D S T YLI N G BY JU DY K I M

I
Z
Z
L
E
REC I PES BY
R AC HEL GU RJA R
TEX T BY
NI N A MOSKOWI TZ
PHOTO GRA PHS BY
HEA MI LEE

PROP S T YLI N G BY NI COLE LOU I E

I
T
Aromatics like onions,
celery, and ginger
form the bedrock of so
much of our cooking.
But carefully dicing
and gently sweating
them takes precious
time we don’t always
have. These recipes put
you on the fast track
to big flavor by blitzing
those ingredients
in a food processor
and frying them out,
creating concentrated
foundations of
deliciousness.
Sometimes patience
is overrated.

O
U
T

No need to peel the ginger in this recipe
before buzzing it up. You won’t be able to
taste it—plus extra fiber never hurt anyone.

GINGER -GARLIC
CHICKEN AND
V E G E TA B L E S T I R - F RY
P. 75

70

Adding lemon zest to the aromatics
infuses the broth with bright citrus
flavor without any of the bitterness
that comes with the pith.

LEMONY WHITE
BEAN SOUP
P. 75

SPICED BEEF
TAC O B OW L S
P. 75

Sautéing vegetables in the rendered
beef fat imparts a decadent, savory
depth of flavor to this sofrito.

SM A LLE R PI E CE S,
BI G G E R FLAV O R
Aromatics that are finely
processed will break down and
brown quicker than they would
if left in larger pieces. For onions
and other alliums, like shallots
and garlic, the size fundamentally
changes the way they taste.
When the cell structure of these
vegetables is disturbed, chemical
reactions kick-start and unveil
that signature sharp flavor. The
more broken down an onion or
clove of garlic is, the more that
process revs up, and therefore
the more potent it becomes.

Cooking your aromatics over high heat promotes
browning—more flavor!—and preserves a bit of texture.

CA JUN SHRIMP
FRIED RICE

A food processor may be the fastest way to break down aromatics, but it isn’t
the only way. Here are some tricks for achieving a similar result without one.

GRATE IT

CH OP I T

B LE N D I T

A fine-toothed Microplane makes quick
work of things like garlic and ginger.
If yours is struggling, remember that
those teeth do dull over time—might be
time to treat yourself to a new one.

For bigger vegetables like celery or onion,
rough-chop them on a cutting board, then
incorporate a healthy pinch of salt and continue
to chop until they’re totally minced. The salt
helps to further break down the ingredients.

If you have a blender with a controlled
pulse setting, buzz your ingredients
in quick bursts until a chunky paste
starts to form. Just be careful not to let
the blender turn it all into soup!

74

CAJUN SHRIMP FRIED RICE
4 – 6 S E RV I N G S

A chunky blend of bell pepper, onion,
and garlic adds not only flavor but
welcome texture and color to this fried
rice. Quickly blitzing the sofrito in
a food processor ensures maximum
weeknight ease.

1
4
1

lb. medium shrimp, peeled, deveined
Tbsp. Cajun seasoning, divided
medium red or green bell pepper,
ribs and seeds removed, coarsely
chopped
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
½ cup vegetable oil
5 cups chilled cooked rice
Kosher salt (optional)
Cilantro leaves with tender stems
(for serving)
Toss shrimp with 2 Tbsp. Cajun seasoning
in a small bowl to combine.
Pulse bell pepper, onion, and garlic
in a food processor until combined but
still chunky.
Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet or wok
over medium-high. Add pepper mixture
and remaining 2 Tbsp. Cajun seasoning.
Cook, stirring often, until pepper mixture
is softened, about 4 minutes. Add shrimp
and cook, stirring often, until opaque,
about 5 minutes. Add rice and stir to
combine. Cook, stirring often, until rice is
warmed through, about 4 minutes. Taste
and season with salt if needed.
Divide fried rice among plates and top
with cilantro.

4
8
8
8

Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
oz. baby bok choy, halved
lengthwise
oz. mushrooms, trimmed, sliced
oz. snow peas, trimmed
Kosher salt (optional)
Cooked rice (for serving)

Toss chicken with 2 Tbsp. soy sauce and
1 Tbsp. mirin in a medium bowl. Sprinkle
cornstarch over; toss to coat.
Pulse white and pale green parts of
scallions, garlic, and ginger in a food
processor until very finely chopped.
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over
medium-high. Arrange chicken in skillet
in an even layer and cook, undisturbed,
until golden brown underneath, about
3 minutes. Turn chicken over and cook
until golden brown on other side, about
2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in same
skillet. Add scallion mixture and cook,
stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add bok choy, mushrooms, and snow
peas and cook, tossing, until crisp-tender,
about 2 minutes. Return chicken and
any accumulated juices to skillet. Add
remaining 3 Tbsp. soy sauce and 1 Tbsp.
mirin and ¼ cup water, scraping up any
browned bits stuck to bottom of pan.
Cook, tossing, until vegetables are tender
and sauce is slightly thickened, about
2 minutes. Remove from heat; taste and
season with salt if needed.
Divide stir-fry among plates; top with
dark green parts of scallions. Serve
with rice alongside.

LEMONY WHITE BEAN SOUP
4 S E RV I N G S

GINGER-GARLIC CHICKEN AND
VEGETABLE STIR-FRY
4 S E RV I N G S

The trio of garlic, ginger, and scallion
takes just seconds to finely chop in a
food processor and only seconds more
to cook, making it an ideal combination
for fast-cooking dishes like stir-fries or
fried rice. A light coating of soy sauce,
mirin, and cornstarch prevents the
chicken from sticking to the skillet while
keeping the meat juicy.

1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken breasts,
sliced on a diagonal ¼" thick
5 Tbsp. soy sauce, divided
2 Tbsp. mirin (sweet Japanese rice
wine), divided
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
4 scallions, white and pale green and
dark green parts separated, thinly
sliced
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 2" piece ginger, scrubbed, coarsely
chopped

These plump white beans create a
luscious broth thanks to an aromatic
base featuring lemon zest blended and
cooked alongside onion, garlic, and
celery. A stealthy knob of butter adds
just enough richness to balance the
bright citrus.

1
2
1
6
3
1
8
1
2

medium onion, coarsely chopped
celery stalks, coarsely chopped
lemon, zest removed in wide strips,
lemon halved
garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
for drizzling
Freshly ground pepper
tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, plus more
oz. dried white beans (such as
cannellini), soaked overnight,
drained
quart low-sodium vegetable broth
Tbsp. unsalted butter
Finely chopped parsley and toasted
sourdough bread (for serving)

Pulse onion, celery, lemon zest, and garlic
in a food processor until finely chopped.
Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven
or other heavy pot over medium-high.
Add onion mixture, a few grinds of
pepper, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or
½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, stirring
often, until onion mixture is beginning
to brown, 8–10 minutes.
Add beans and broth, scraping up any
browned bits stuck to bottom of pot. Bring
to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer
until beans are tender, 1–1½ hours. Taste
and season with more salt if needed.
Add butter and squeeze in juice from
lemon halves; stir to combine.
Ladle soup into bowls and top with
parsley. Serve with toast.

SPICED BEEF TACO BOWLS
2 – 4 S E RV I N G S

This weeknight-friendly taco bowl
boasts deeply seasoned ground beef
with the key addition of sofrito for extra
oomph. The combination of onion,
garlic, and jalapeño cooks in the rich
beef fat alongside store-bought taco
seasoning to create a wildly flavorful
addition to bowls, tacos, or salads.

1 large tomato, chopped
¼ medium red onion, finely chopped
1 jalapeño, ½ finely chopped,
½ coarsely chopped
¼ cup finely chopped cilantro
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Kosher salt
1 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. ground beef (20% fat)
1 1-oz. packet taco seasoning mix
Cooked rice, sliced avocado, tortilla
chips, shredded lettuce, and lime
wedges (for serving)
Toss tomato, red onion, finely chopped
jalapeño, cilantro, and lime juice in a
small bowl to combine; season with salt.
Set salsa aside.
Pulse coarsely chopped jalapeño,
yellow onion, and garlic in a food
processor until finely chopped.
Heat oil in a medium skillet over mediumhigh. Cook beef, stirring and breaking
up with a wooden spoon, until browned
and cooked through, 6–8 minutes. Add
onion mixture and taco seasoning; cook,
stirring often, until beginning to stick to
pan, 6–8 minutes. Pour in ½ cup water,
scraping up any browned bits stuck to
bottom of pan. Cook, stirring often, until
sauce is slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.
Divide spiced beef and rice among
bowls. Serve with avocado, tortilla chips,
lettuce, lime wedges, and reserved salsa.
75

76

LOFTY, FUDGY, TENDER TREATS,
WITH NO WHEAT IN SIGHT

Baking
BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA

who simply can’t do
wheat, gluten-free no
longer feels like a fourletter word—or a life
sentence of brick-heavy
bread and gluey cake.
Rather, it’s an opportunity to try something
new and to push the
boundaries of baking.
These recipes, from
a celebratory cake to
an herb-topped focaccia, go way beyond
good enough. Each
one is carefully calibrated to be the sort
of reliable classic you
turn to again and
again. All-purpose
flour is weeping.

ne

G
F

or

e

We’re living in the
golden age of glutenfree baking. There are
entire aisles in grocery
stores dedicated to alternative flours. Xanthan
gum isn’t some mysterious, hard-to-find lab
ingredient—it’s proudly
shelved along with the
rest of the baking supplies. And dollars to
(mochi) doughnuts,
some of the best pastries at the coffee shop
won’t contain a spoonful of all-purpose flour.
Whether you’re following doctor’s orders, in
a “gluten-lite” phase,
or wooing a new lover

n
F
e
t
r
e
ul

o
Eve r y

Prop
styling
by Marina
Bevilacqua
FOOD
STYLING
BY KAITLIN
WAYNE

PROP STYLING
CHRISTINA
FoodBYstyling
by ThuALLEN
Buser

h
i
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C
O
e
t
a
a
l
t
m
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o
a
h
l
C
C
–
o
y
o
r
r
k
e
i
e
h
s
C
There’s something about a hearty oatmeal cookie that hits just right.
They have a homespun appeal that says “I’m wholesome enough to eat for
breakfast and decadent enough for dessert.” Jammed with mix-ins, this one
is chewy and chunky with a warm, rounded hint of cinnamon, rich dark
chocolate pieces, toasted pecans, and dried tart cherries. Traditionally, oatmeal
cookies depend on all-purpose flour to provide enough structure to hold
together. Here, a portion of the oats is blitzed into a fine flour that does the
job while also adding an additional layer of nutty flavor.

M A K E S A B O U T 14
1

cup (100 g) coarsely chopped
pecans or walnuts
2¼ cups (225 g) old-fashioned oats,
divided
1 cup (packed; 200 g) dark brown sugar
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted,
slightly cooled
2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla
extract
1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp.
Morton kosher salt
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 large egg
¾ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. xanthan gum
3.5 oz. (100 g) semisweet chocolate,
coarsely chopped (about ½ cup)
1 cup (160 g) dried tart cherries
Flaky sea salt (optional)
Place racks in upper and lower thirds of
oven; preheat to 350°. Toast pecans on
a rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway
through, until slightly darkened in color
and fragrant, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a
plate and let cool.
Meanwhile, finely grind ¾ cup (75 g)
oats in a blender, then sift through a
fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl; discard
pieces left in sieve. You should have
½ cup (63 g) oat flour. Mix brown sugar,
butter, vanilla bean paste, kosher salt,
78

and cinnamon in a large bowl until
combined. Whisk in egg, then add baking
soda, xanthan gum, and oat flour and
whisk vigorously 1 minute.
Add pecans, chopped chocolate,
dried cherries, and remaining 1½ cups
(150 g) oats and fold into batter with
a large rubber spatula until evenly
distributed. Cover bowl with a plate or
plastic wrap and let dough sit at room
temperature 1 hour to hydrate oat flour.
Using a #16 cookie scoop or ¼-cup
measuring cup, portion out dough and
divide between 2 parchment-lined baking
sheets, spacing about 2" apart (cookies
will spread as they bake; you should have
about 7 cookies per sheet). Press down
on cookies gently to flatten slightly, then
lightly sprinkle with sea salt if desired.

Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets
top to bottom and front to back halfway
through, until edges are golden brown
(centers will still look underbaked),
10–13 minutes. Remove baking sheets
from oven. For more perfectly shaped
cookies (no obligation!), working one
at a time, place a glass or round cutter
with a diameter larger than the cookies
over or around them and scoot back and
forth and in a circular motion to push
edges smooth, making a neat circle. Let
cookies cool on baking sheets 10 minutes,
then transfer to wire racks and let cool
completely (warm cookies will be fragile
but will firm as they cool).
D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked
1 day ahead. Store airtight at room
temperature.

BAKER’S NOTE

In a departure from traditional baking advice against overmixing, it is actually
advisable to vigorously stir gluten-free batters (like this cookie dough). Doing
so builds better structure and, if your mixture contains xanthan gum, activates it
for thickening and helps ensure the ultrafine powder is dispersed more evenly.

Wa

e
a
h
t
Toffee C
w
k
c
u
B
t
ake
lnu

s

These tiny but mighty cakes drenched in caramel bring big sticky-toffeepudding energy to the dinner table. They’re rich and dense, with a small cloud
of egg whites providing just enough lift to prevent them from being stodgy,
plus plenty of brown butter and walnuts to play off the cool, earthy aromas
of buckwheat. If you’re feeling formal, serve them one to a plate at the end of
a dinner party. Or go wild: Pile all the cakes on a platter with scoops of ice
cream, drown it all in sauce, and let everyone go to town. If you don’t want to
bother with muffin tins, skip the sauce and bake the batter in an 8" round or
square pan. Dust it with powdered sugar and cut it into squares once it’s cool.

8 – 10 S E RV I N G S
CAKE

½
2
1
⅔
¼
2
1
3
⅔

Nonstick vegetable oil spray
(for pan)
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
Tbsp. honey
tsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla
extract
cup (65 g) coarsely chopped
walnuts
cup (32 g) buckwheat flour
(preferably Arrowhead Mills)
Tbsp. (17 g) cornstarch
tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
large egg whites
cup (133 g) dark brown sugar

S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY

½ cup (packed; 100 g) dark brown
sugar
½ cup heavy cream
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into
½" pieces
1 Tbsp. honey
1 Tbsp. whiskey (optional)
2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla
extract
Vanilla ice cream (for serving)
C A K E Place a rack in middle of oven;
preheat to 375°. Lightly spray cups of a
standard 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick
spray. Cook butter in a medium saucepan
over medium heat, stirring often, until it

foams, then browns, 5–8 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in honey
and vanilla bean paste; let cool until
lukewarm, about 5 minutes.
Pulse walnuts, buckwheat flour,
cornstarch, and salt in a food processor
until nuts are very finely ground (take care
not to process into a paste); transfer
to a large bowl. Scrape in brown butter
mixture and stir to combine.
Using an electric mixer on mediumhigh speed, beat egg whites and brown
sugar in a medium bowl until medium
peaks form, 6–8 minutes. Add one fourth
of meringue to batter; mix until combined
(this will lighten the batter). Add remaining
meringue in 3 batches, gently folding
after each addition until only a few
streaks remain (err on the side of mixing
less over more to keep the batter airy).
Using a #16 cookie scoop or ¼-cup
measuring cup, place a heaping scoop
of batter in each prepared muffin cup
(you should be able to fill about 10).

Bake until tops are golden brown and
cakes are beginning to pull away from
sides of cups, 12–14 minutes. Transfer pan
to a wire rack and let cakes cool in the
pan 5 minutes. Turn out onto rack; let
cool completely.
D O A H E A D : Cakes can be baked 1 day
ahead. Store, loosely covered, at room
temperature.
S A U C E A N D A S S E M B LY While cakes
are baking, bring brown sugar, cream,
butter, and honey to a boil in a medium
saucepan over medium heat, stirring
occasionally. Cook, stirring occasionally,
until butter is melted and sugar is
dissolved, about 4 minutes. Boil, without
stirring, 1 minute, then remove pan from
heat. Stir in whiskey (if using), salt, and
vanilla bean paste. Let sauce cool.
Divide cakes among plates and top
each with a scoop of ice cream. Stir
sauce briefly to combine, then drizzle
over ice cream.

BAKER’S NOTE

For these little cakes, make sure to spray the muffin cups
with an even but light coating of nonstick vegetable oil spray—
too much will cause them to rise unevenly.

81

o
R
s
e
d
m
n
a
a
r
y
n
o
Focac
i
n
O
d
c
ia
e
R
In cakes and cookies, flour is a fairly small component relative to all the other
ingredients. But bread? Bread hinges on gluten. The open, airy structure
of bread is the result of a strong gluten network trapping carbon dioxide as the
bread rises. The trick to reproducing this in gluten-free baking is to create
a dough that’s sticky and thick enough to do the same. Psyllium husk is a game
changer for gluten-free bread baking, so powerfully absorbent it turns what was
once a thin batter into a workable dough (see the Baker’s Note below to learn
more). And what a dough it is! This focaccia bakes up with an olive-oil-crisp crust
and a gloriously open crumb. It’s made to be sliced open and piled high with
cheese, meat, and vegetables for sandwiches, torn off in chunks and dunked into
soups, or simply, delightfully, eaten all on its own.

8 S E RV I N G S
2
4

Tbsp. psyllium husk
tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
2 tsp. sugar
2¼ tsp. instant yeast
1½ tsp. baking powder
2 tsp. finely chopped rosemary,
plus leaves for topping
3 cups (375 g) gluten-free flour blend
(preferably Cup4Cup)
2 tsp. apple cider vinegar
¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,
divided; plus more for your hands
Room-temperature unsalted butter
(for pan)
1 medium red onion, cut into ¼"-thick
wedges
Flaky sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Stir psyllium husk, kosher salt, sugar,
and 2 cups room-temperature water in
the bowl of stand mixer to combine; let
sit until thickened slightly, 5–10 minutes.
Add yeast, baking powder, and
chopped rosemary to mixture and stir
vigorously until no large, undissolved
lumps remain. Add gluten-free flour
blend, vinegar, and ¼ cup oil; fit onto
stand mixer and attach dough hook.
Mix on low speed until dough is no longer
shaggy (it should be sticky but smooth),
82

5–8 minutes. Remove bowl from stand
mixer; cover tightly with a plate or plastic
wrap. Let sit in a warm, draft-free place
until almost doubled in size, 1–1½ hours.
Generously butter a 10"-diameter
cast-iron skillet or 9" square metal pan;
pour 2 Tbsp. oil into pan and swirl
to coat (this double greasing prevents
any sticking and helps create a golden
brown bottom crust). Using a rubber
spatula, scrape dough into prepared pan.
With oiled hands, pat dough to smooth
surface and extend to edges of pan.
Cover (a baking sheet is excellent for this)
and let dough rise in a warm place

until puffy and jiggly, 45–60 minutes,
depending on the temperature of the room.
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat
to 425°. Scatter red onion and rosemary
leaves over focaccia, pushing gently into
dough to adhere. Drizzle remaining
1 Tbsp. oil over and season lightly with
sea salt and pepper. Bake focaccia,
covering loosely with foil if onions are
browning too quickly, until puffed and
deep golden brown and an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the center
registers 205°–210°, 50–60 minutes.
Let cool 15 minutes before cutting into
wedges or strips.

BAKER’S NOTE

Psyllium husk, a naturally occurring plant-derived fiber, forms a sticky,
stretchy gel when mixed with liquid. It mimics the elasticity of gluten,
creating enough structure to trap gas bubbles as the yeast expands. The
end result is bread that is airy and chewy. Use whole psyllium husk;
the finely ground powder is more absorbent and will throw off your
recipe. It’s essential to use room-temperature water in this dough as
warm or hot water will prematurely activate the baking powder,
preventing the focaccia from reaching its full, fluffy potential in the oven.

b
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F
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L
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Cak
e

With two layers of fluffy cake and swooshes of frosting, this picture-perfect chocolate
cake almost looks too good to be true–or truly gluten-free. But this recipe delivers.
Oat flour is naturally high in protein, which provides structure, while starchy
sweet rice flour makes it tender, and xanthan gum holds it all together. Dissolving
the cocoa powder in hot water unlocks more of its flavor while negating the need
to sift. And the frosting is virtually indestructible. Any problem you may encounter
is fixable. Too soft? Chill it. Too firm? Let it sit at room temperature for a while
longer. Looking a little split? Warm it up gently until it smooths back out.
To everyone looking for a party-worthy cake without gluten: Happy birthday,
cheers, and congratulations! Serve yourself the biggest slice; you deserve it.

8 S E RV I N G S
CAKE

1½
1
½
2
1½
½
¼
1
⅓
2
⅔
1

Nonstick vegetable oil spray
(for pan)
cups (300 g) granulated sugar
cup (160 g) oat flour
cup (60 g) mochiko (sweet
rice flour; such as Koda Farms)
tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp.
kosher salt
tsp. baking powder
tsp. baking soda
tsp. xanthan gum
cup (85 g) Dutch-process cocoa
powder
cup vegetable oil
large eggs
cup buttermilk
Tbsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla
extract

F R O S T I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

1 cup (110 g) powdered sugar
¼ cup (21 g) Dutch-process cocoa
powder
2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla
extract
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
kosher salt
8 oz. semisweet or bittersweet
chocolate (68–70% cacao)
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter,
room temperature
C A K E Place a rack in middle of oven;
preheat to 350°. Lightly coat two
8"-diameter cake pans with nonstick
spray; line each with a parchment paper
round. Vigorously whisk granulated
sugar, oat flour, mochiko, salt, baking
powder, baking soda, and xanthan gum
in a medium bowl to combine.

Whisk cocoa powder, oil, and ¾ cup
boiling water in a large bowl until cocoa
is dissolved, about 30 seconds. Add eggs,
buttermilk, and vanilla bean paste and
whisk to combine. Add dry ingredients
and whisk until just combined and batter is
smooth. Divide batter between prepared
pans (about 545 g per pan).
Bake cakes until a tester inserted
into the center comes out with a few
moist crumbs attached and cakes spring
back when gently pressed in the center,
22–28 minutes. Transfer pans to wire
racks and let cakes cool in pans.
F R O S T I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Whisk powdered
sugar, cocoa powder, vanilla bean paste,
salt, and ¼ cup boiling-hot water in a
medium bowl until smooth. Let cool, about
5 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat chocolate in a
heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of
simmering water (bowl should not touch
water), stirring, until chocolate is melted
and smooth. Let cool slightly before using.
(Alternatively, melt in a microwave-proof
bowl in the microwave in 20-second
bursts, stirring after each burst.)

Add butter to powdered sugar mixture
and, using an electric mixer on mediumhigh speed, beat until smooth and
creamy, about 2 minutes (it may look
curdled at first, but keep beating). Scrape
in melted chocolate; beat until combined,
about 2 minutes. If frosting is soft (like
pudding), chill, stirring often, just until
cool to the touch and thickened to a
scoopable texture, about 15 minutes.
Run a small offset spatula around cakes
to loosen and turn out onto racks. Remove
parchment paper; discard. Place a cake,
right side up, on a large plate or cake
platter. Spread 1 cup frosting evenly over
top of cake. Place remaining cake on top,
arranging upside down. Spread remaining
frosting over top and sides of cake,
swirling decoratively if desired. Chill until
frosting is sliceable but not too firm before
serving, about 30 minutes.
DO AHEAD: Frosting can be made 3 days
ahead; cover and chill. Bring to room
temperature, then whisk to lighten before
using (reheat gently if it looks curdled).
Cake can be assembled 1 day ahead;
keep chilled. Bring to room temperature
before serving.

BAKER’S NOTE

Store-bought oat flour is ideal for this cake, as it will have a finer texture
than homemade and absorb moisture more evenly, translating to
a softer, fluffier cake. If you do make your own, use old-fashioned,
not quick-cooking oats, and sift through a fine-mesh sieve after grinding.

85

Th

F
r
n
e
e
e
t
u
P
l
a
G
ntr
e
At its most basic, the gluten-free pantry can be broken
down into three categories: flours, starches, and binders.
Stocking a few ingredients from each section will
have you well set up to create a number of tasty treats.

y

1

2

3

1. G LU T E N - F R E E 1- T O -1
F LO U R B L E N D S

2 . A L M O N D F LO U R

3 . S TA R C H E S

These mixes are built to swap
evenly with all-purpose flour.
Our preferred brand is Cup4Cup,
which contains rice flours for their
neutral taste and milk powder
for deep, even browning.

Made from ground blanched
almonds, pale yellow almond
flour (not meal or natural almond
flour!) is mild and buttery tasting,
lending a fudgy, nubby texture to
brownies and cakes. Always sift
it before using to remove clumps.

Cornstarch and tapioca starch
keep things tender, soft, and
chewy. In baked goods, either
can be used with similar results,
but in desserts like puddings,
tapioca may contribute a more
viscous mouthfeel than desired.

4. B U C K W H E AT F LO U R

5. XANTHAN GUM

6 . OAT F LO U R

Buckwheat (despite its name)
is actually a robust and toasty
seed. It pairs particularly well
with nuts and chocolate. Look
for light (not dark) buckwheat
flour made from hulled seeds.
Our favorite is Arrowhead Mills.

Xanthan gum is a powerful
binder, providing essential
adhesion and tackiness to glutenfree batters, which helps create
light and airy textures. Without it,
these baked goods would be
dense and crumbly.

With its mild, neutral flavor and
soft, starchy nature, oat flour is
a great team player. Higher in
fat than other gluten-free flours,
it is susceptible to going rancid
and is best stored in the fridge
to preserve its freshness.

6
4

5

87

RE
A
SINH

TEXT BY ANTARA

T HE

E
OF
F
I
L

Fo o d s t y l i n g b y J U DY K I M

C

IP E

Y
SB

D
KEN

ULIN
RA VAC

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA

REBUILD YOUR SPICE
CABINET AND REFRESH
YOUR COOKING

AS

PI

Better-sourced–and better-tasting!–spices are easier to come by
than ever, and there’s never been a more exciting time to cook with
them. So whether you have been hanging on to that tin of paprika from the
early aughts or are starting from scratch, consider these recipes a delicious
excuse to upgrade your essentials one jar at a time. From a heady cinnamonscented pork stew to a blueberry compote that sings with the bright flavors of coriander,
each dish showcases just how special one spice can be when it takes center stage.
Stock up and start here.

CE
P ro p s t y l i n g b y N I C O L E LO U I E

RAGÙ
PA P R I K A S H

PAPRIKA
The term paprika refers to a whole multiverse of dried, powdered red
peppers. Traditionally, it comes from Capsicum annuum, like cayenne, but
with a fraction of the heat—with many paprika powders containing a varied blend of mild red peppers. The generic paprika you’re likely to come
across at the supermarket is usually more colorful than it is flavorful, so look
for jars that proudly tout their origins for maximum impact. Spanish paprika
is often (not always!) made with smoked peppers and labeled as “pimentón.”
Hungarian paprika is a category of its own, with eight classic styles ranging from pungent to sweet to spicy. Amplified by tangy vinegar and sour
cream, sweet paprika shines in this paprikash-inspired pasta.

RAGÙ PAPRIKASH
4 S E RV I N G S

Chicken paprikash is a classic Hungarian
dish that relies on a generous amount
of paprika for mild peppery flavor and
vivid red color. Here it is reimagined
as a ragù featuring ground chicken.

4
1
4
1
¼
½
2

Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
large onion, finely chopped
garlic cloves, finely chopped
lb. ground chicken
cup Hungarian sweet paprika
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp.
Morton kosher salt, divided,
plus more
4 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine
vinegar, divided
1 14.5-oz. can crushed tomatoes
1 lb. pappardelle or other long,
flat pasta
¼ cup sour cream
Finely chopped parsley (for serving)
Melt 2 Tbsp. butter in a medium Dutch oven
or other heavy pot over medium-high heat.
Cook onion, stirring often, until softened,
5–7 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring
often, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Add chicken, paprika, red pepper
flakes, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or
½ tsp. Morton kosher salt to pot. Cook,
stirring and breaking up meat into small
pieces with a wooden spoon, until chicken
is cooked through, about 4 minutes. Stir in
2 Tbsp. vinegar, scraping up any browned
bits stuck to bottom of pot. Add tomatoes,
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton
kosher salt, and 1 cup water and bring to
a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and

simmer, stirring occasionally, until ragù is
thickened and saucy, 12–14 minutes. Stir
in remaining 2 Tbsp. vinegar.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large
pot of boiling salted water, stirring
occasionally, until al dente. Drain,
reserving ½ cup pasta cooking liquid.
Add pasta and remaining 2 Tbsp. butter
to ragù. Increase heat to medium and
cook, tossing and gradually adding pasta
cooking liquid, until ragù is glossy and
clings to pasta, about 2 minutes. Remove
from heat and stir in sour cream. Taste
and season with more salt if needed.
Divide pasta among shallow bowls;
top with parsley.

BA RECOMMENDS

BURLAP & BARREL NOBLE SWEET
PAPRIKA $10; burlapandbarrel.com
BURLAP & BARREL SMOKED PIMENTÓN
PAPRIKA $10; burlapandbarrel.com

We keep two jars on hand: an earthy
sweet paprika from a regenerative farm
in Kalocsa, Hungary, and a smoky
pimentón made from Spanish peppers
dried over oak coals.

91

CINNAMON
A whiff of hot churros, that woodsiness in your favorite garam masala
blend, the headiness of coquito—cinnamon makes itself known. Harvested
from the inner bark of a few different species of trees native to Asia, two
main categories are cassia and Ceylon. Cassia cinnamon is what you’re
likely to find in the spice aisle. It’s distinct and intense, and a sprinkle goes
a long way. Ceylon cinnamon, indigenous to Sri Lanka, can be pricier and
take more effort to source but is worth it if you’re looking for a more delicate, citrusy, floral flavor. Both varieties are just as at-home in desserts, like
a sticky butterscotch (page 101), as they are in savory dishes like this hearty
pork and chickpea stew.

PORK AND CHICKPEA STEW
WITH CINNAMON
4 – 6 S E RV I N G S

Cinnamon sticks are ideal for braises
and saucy dishes with longer cook
times, in which they slowly release their
warming aromas. While cinnamon
can lean sweet or savory, this dish is
decidedly the latter thanks to red onion,
bay leaf, cayenne, and lots of garlic.

3

lb. boneless pork shoulder (Boston
butt), fat cap trimmed if needed,
cut into 4 pieces
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, plus more
Freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 3" cinnamon sticks
1 medium red onion, coarsely chopped,
plus thinly sliced for serving
4 garlic cloves, smashed
3 Medjool dates, pitted, chopped
1 large bay leaf
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes
2 15-oz. cans chickpeas, rinsed
1 Tbsp. (or more) red wine vinegar
Torn mint leaves (for serving)
Pat pork dry; season generously on all
sides with salt and black pepper. Heat
oil in a medium Dutch oven or other
92

heavy pot over medium-high. Working in
2 batches, cook pork, turning occasionally,
until browned all over, 7–9 minutes per
batch. Transfer to a plate.
Pour off all but 2 Tbsp. fat from pot.
Add cinnamon sticks and cook, stirring,
until starting to unroll, about 1 minute.
Add chopped red onion and cook, stirring
occasionally, until softened, 5–7 minutes.
Add garlic and cook, stirring often,
until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add dates,
bay leaf, cayenne, and 1 tsp. Diamond
Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt;
season with black pepper and stir to
combine. Add tomatoes and their juices,
crushing with your hands as you go, then
pour in 5 cups water; stir to combine.
Return pork along with any accumulated
juices to pot and bring to a boil. Reduce
heat, partially cover, and cook, adjusting
heat as needed to maintain a simmer, until
meat is fork-tender, 2½–3 hours.
Transfer pork to a medium bowl and
shred with 2 forks; return to pot. Add
chickpeas and bring to a boil. Reduce
heat, cover, and simmer until chickpeas
are very tender, 25–30 minutes. Remove
from heat and stir in vinegar. Taste stew
and season with more salt and/or add
vinegar if needed.
Divide stew among bowls; top with
sliced red onion and mint.
D O A H E A D : Stew can be made 1 day
ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

BA RECOMMENDS

CURIO SPICE CO.
VIETNAMESE CASSIA
CINNAMON QUILLS

$28; curiospice.com
For cinnamon that has
an especially sweet,
honeyed quality, we
stock up on these
cassia cinnamon quills
from Curio Spice Co.
They’re an heirloom
variety of cassia with
a warming depth and
are regeneratively
grown in the Yên Bái
province in Vietnam.

PORK AND
CHICKPEA STEW
WITH CINNAMON

ROASTED
CAULIFLOWER WITH
TURMERIC SAUCE

TURMERIC
We love turmeric for its musky earthiness—like packed, wet soil—that plays
well with heat, acid, and sweetness. It’s a root, technically a rhizome,
native to South and Southeast Asia, that’s been used for centuries to dye
clothing, for its medicinal benefits, and, yes, in cooking. The powder is
made by boiling, drying, and pulverizing the roots, and the fresher it is, the
better (the best producers will share the harvest dates on the jar). You
probably know it by its striking color—quality turmeric can range from
egg-yolk yellow to radiant marigold to sunset ochre. Here, it tints and seasons the silky coconut sauce that gets poured over nutty roasted cauliflower.

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
WITH TURMERIC SAUCE
4 S E RV I N G S

Roasting cauliflower concentrates its
flavor and primes it for this creamy
coconut-milk-based sauce packed with
ginger and garlic. Turmeric provides
a distinct earthy flavor that is balanced
by honey and fish sauce.

1
1
5
1
2
1
1
2
1

large head of cauliflower (about
2½ lb.), cored, cut into large florets
Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
for drizzling
Kosher salt
garlic cloves, finely grated
2½" piece ginger, peeled, finely
grated
tsp. ground turmeric
13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut
milk
Tbsp. fish sauce
tsp. (or more) honey
Fresno chile, thinly sliced
Store-bought fried onions and toasted
unsweetened coconut flakes
(for serving)

Preheat oven to 425°. Place cauliflower
on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle
with oil and season with salt; toss to coat.
Spread out into an even layer and roast,
turning halfway through, until deeply
browned and tender, 40–50 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a
medium saucepan over medium. Cook
garlic and ginger, stirring constantly, until

fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add turmeric
and season with salt. Cook, stirring, until
mixture is yellow, about 1 minute. Pour
in half of coconut milk and bring to a
simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until
slightly thickened, 8–10 minutes. Stir in
fish sauce, honey, and remaining coconut
milk. Return to a simmer, cover, and cook,
stirring occasionally, 20 minutes. Taste
sauce and season with more salt and/or
add honey if needed.
Transfer cauliflower to a platter; pour
turmeric sauce over. Top with chile, fried
onions, and coconut flakes.

BA RECOMMENDS

DIASPORA CO. PRAGATI TURMERIC

$10; diasporaco.com
Regeneratively grown and harvested
on a third-generation farm in Andhra
Pradesh, India, this ground turmeric
from Diaspora Co. is especially fresh
and potent—much more so than the
pale supermarket stuff.

95

CORIANDER
You know that moment when you peel an orange, your fingers pierce the
skin, and you’re hit with that first jolt of essential oils? Coriander seeds are
that sunny moment, all bottled up. The peppercorn-size, tan-and-yellow
seeds are the dried fruits of the coriander plant, native to regions spanning
Southern Europe, North Africa, and Western Asia. (It’s one of the oldest
spices on record!) While coriander seeds and cilantro leaves come from the
same plant, they couldn’t taste more different. Whereas the leaves are vegetal and astringent, coriander seeds are toasty and citrusy. Use the crushed
seeds with abandon to crust seared salmon, or swing sweet instead of
savory with a blueberry compote ready for breakfast or dessert (page 101).

ORANGE-CORIANDER SALMON
4 S E RV I N G S

Coriander often plays second fiddle in
recipes, adding a bright complement
to more powerful spices like cumin or
caraway. But in this super simple
weeknight recipe, the spice gets to
shine, with orange and lemon
heightening its already citrusy flavor.

6
1

Tbsp. coriander seeds, divided
large orange, halved through
equator
4 4–6-oz. skinless salmon fillets
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium shallots, halved through root
end, thinly sliced lengthwise
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Cilantro leaves with tender stems
(for serving)
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A mortar and pestle

or spice mill
Coarsely crush 3 Tbsp. coriander seeds
with a mortar and pestle or very coarsely
grind in a spice mill; transfer to a plate.
Finely crush (or grind) remaining 3 Tbsp.
96

coriander seeds; transfer to a small bowl
and set aside. (Alternatively, you can use
2 Tbsp. ground coriander.)
Thinly slice 1 orange half into rounds;
remove seeds. Squeeze juice from other
half into a measuring glass until you have
¼ cup. Set aside separately.
Pat salmon dry and season with salt on
both sides. Working one at a time, press
fillets into coarsely crushed coriander to
coat on 1 side. Transfer, coriander side
up, to a large plate.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium.
Arrange salmon, coriander side down,
in pan and cook until golden brown
underneath, about 3 minutes. Turn fillets
over and cook until flesh is just opaque
throughout, about 3 minutes. Transfer to
a platter.
Add shallots to same skillet; season
with salt. Cook, stirring often, until slightly
softened, about 2 minutes. Add reserved
finely crushed coriander and cook, stirring,
until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in
lemon juice and reserved orange juice,
then add butter, reserved orange slices,
and ¹⁄₃ cup water. Cook, stirring often,
until sauce is slightly thickened and
orange slices are tender, about 2 minutes.
Spoon sauce and orange slices over
salmon; top with cilantro.

BA RECOMMENDS

BURLAP & BARREL
RED RIVER CORIANDER

$9; burlapandbarrel.com
This variety, harvested by a
farming collective in Northern
Vietnam and then sun-dried, is
remarkably fragrant and
comes in its own grinder,
meaning you don’t need to
whip out that mortar and
pestle every time you need a
sprinkle. Coriander seeds are
versatile but lose their potency
quickly once they’re ground.
To keep them fresher longer,
store the jar in a cool, dark
place and grind just what you
need for each recipe.

ORANGECORIANDER
SALMON

97

CUMIN STEAK AND
S C A L L I O N P I TA S

98

CUMIN
Cumin is a shape-shifter. A cousin of parsley and dill native to the Mediterranean region, it reveals a range of flavors depending on how it’s treated.
Sizzle whole seeds in hot ghee until they pop and wiggle for a taste that’s
grassy and bright. For deep, nutty, campfire-like smokiness, dry-toast them in
a skillet and then blitz in a spice mill to sprinkle onto everything from chili to
fried eggs. And for more mellow, subtle warmth, like the smell of terra-cotta
that’s been baking in the sun, reach for untoasted ground cumin. A few
heaping spoonfuls give this quick steak marinade all the oomph it needs.

CUMIN STEAK AND
SCALLION PITAS
4 S E RV I N G S

Ground cumin does double duty in
this speedy dinner: whisked into a
flavorful rub for skirt steak, and stirred
into yogurt for a creamy condiment.
Serve all the components separately
and have people build their own pitas
so the bread maintains its integrity.

1½ lb. skirt steak, cut into 5" pieces
¹⁄₃ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. ground cumin
4½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, divided,
plus more
Freshly ground pepper
6 garlic cloves, divided
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 large bunch scallions, cut into
2" pieces
1 large jalapeño, thinly sliced
4 pitas with pockets, halved
Pat steak dry, then prick all over on both
sides with a paring knife.
Stir together ¹⁄₃ cup oil, 2 Tbsp. cumin,
and 3 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp.
Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl;
season with pepper. Finely grate in 4 garlic
cloves and stir to combine. Add steak and
turn to coat. Let sit 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, stir together yogurt, lemon
juice, 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, and remaining 1 Tbsp.
oil and 1½ tsp. cumin in a small bowl;
season with pepper. Finely grate in
remaining 2 garlic cloves and stir to
combine. Set yogurt sauce aside.

Heat a dry large cast-iron skillet over
medium-high. Lift steak from marinade,
letting excess drip back into bowl; transfer
to skillet. Cook until deeply browned and
an instant-read thermometer inserted into
the thickest part registers 125°, about
2 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer
to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, arrange scallions in same
skillet; season with salt. Cook, stirring
often, 1 minute. Pour in ½ cup water and
cook, stirring occasionally, until evaporated
and scallions are wilted, about 2 minutes.
Slice steak against the grain; arrange
on a platter. Place scallions and jalapeño
alongside. Serve with pitas and reserved
yogurt sauce for building pitas.

BA RECOMMENDS

THE SPICE HOUSE GROUND CUMIN
SEEDS $8; thespicehouse.com
THE SPICE HOUSE CUMIN SEEDS

$7; thespicehouse.com
Our favorite finely milled grounds
deliver musky, savory depth, while
the whole seeds are ideal for
adding peppery, toasty pops of
texture. Grab a jar of each.

99

1

2

3

4

A BIT EXTRA:
RECIPES FOR THE REST OF THE JAR

1. QUICK-BRAISED GREENS
WITH SMOKED PAPRIKA
Heat 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter and 1 Tbsp.
extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over
medium. Cook 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced,
stirring often, until softened, about 1 minute.
Add 1 Tbsp. smoked paprika and cook,
stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add
2 large bunches collard greens, ribs and
stems removed, leaves torn into 2" pieces,
3 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar, 1½ tsp.
Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher
salt, ¾ tsp. sugar, and ½ cup water. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid
has cooked off, about 5 minutes. Cover and
continue to cook until collards greens are
tender, about 5 minutes more. Remove from
heat, uncover, and add 1 Tbsp. unsalted
butter; stir until melted. 2–4 servings

2. BLUEBERRY COMPOTE
WITH CORIANDER
Bring 2 cups fresh or frozen blueberries,
3 Tbsp. sugar, 2 tsp. ground coriander,
juice of ½ lemon, and a pinch of kosher salt
to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat.
Cook, stirring occasionally, until some berries
have burst and compote is syrupy, 7–10 minutes.
Makes about 1½ cups

3. TURMERIC-SPICED RICE
Rinse 1 cup jasmine rice in a fine-mesh sieve
until water runs clear. Heat 1 Tbsp. ghee
or vegetable oil in a medium saucepan over
medium-high. Add 1 tsp. black or brown

mustard seeds and 1 tsp. ground turmeric;
cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pan, until
fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add rice and a
big pinch of kosher salt; stir to coat. Pour in
1½ cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat
to low, cover, and cook until water is absorbed
and rice is tender, 15–20 minutes. Remove from
heat and let sit (still covered) 10 minutes.
Uncover and fluff rice with a fork. 4 servings

4. SEEDY CUMIN SPRINKLE
Cook 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, 2 Tbsp.
sliced almonds, 1 Tbsp. cumin seeds,
1 Tbsp. sesame seeds, and a big pinch of
kosher salt in a small saucepan over medium
heat, stirring often with a heatproof rubber
spatula, until mixture is fragrant and almonds
are golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from
heat and add 1 Tbsp. honey; stir to combine.
Immediately scrape mixture onto a rimmed
baking sheet and spread into an even layer.
Let cool, then break into small pieces.
Makes about ½ cup

5. CINNAMON BUTTERSCOTCH
Cook 1 cup heavy cream, 1 cup (200 g) light
or dark brown sugar, ½ cup (1 stick)
unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, 1 tsp.
ground cinnamon, 1 tsp. vanilla extract, and
¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton
kosher salt in a medium saucepan over mediumhigh heat, whisking occasionally, until butter is
melted. Continue to cook, whisking often, until
mixture is slightly thickened, 5–8 minutes.
Makes about 1½ cups

5

101

Recipe Index

BREAD
Red Onion and Rosemary
Focaccia p.82

DRINK
Fino Martini p.104

SOUPS
Elote-Style Corn Soup p.20
Lemony White Bean Soup
p.75

MAIN COURSES
MEAT

Cumin Steak and Scallion
Pitas p.99
Pork and Chickpea Stew With
Cinnamon p.92
Spiced Beef Taco Bowls p.75
NOODLES AND PASTA

Kimchi Udon With Scallions
p.50
One-Pot Broccoli
Mac and Cheese p.26
Pasta With Feta, Olives,
and Raisins p.55
Ragù Paprikash p.91

POULTRY

Ginger-Garlic Chicken and
Vegetable Stir-Fry p.75
Ragù Paprikash p.91
Skillet Chicken Thighs and
Peaches p.18
Vinegary Chicken With
Raisins p.54
SEAFOOD

Cajun Shrimp Fried Rice p.75
Orange-Coriander Salmon
p.96
VEGE TARIAN

Herby Cauliflower Fritters
p.22
Lemony White Bean Soup
p.75
One-Pot Broccoli
Mac and Cheese p.26
Pasta With Feta, Olives,
and Raisins p.55
Pearl Onion and
Sweet Pepper Skillet p.24

VEGETABLES,
SIDE DISHES
Quick-Braised Greens With
Smoked Paprika p.101
Roasted Cauliflower With
Turmeric Sauce p.95
Turmeric-Spiced Rice p.101

CONDIMENTS,
MISCELLANEOUS
Blueberry Compote With
Coriander p.101
Cinnamon Butterscotch p.101
Raisin Vinaigrette
Any Lettuce Will Love p.54
Seedy Cumin Sprinkle p.101

DESSERT
Cherry–Chocolate Chip
Oatmeal Cookies p.78
Cinnamon Butterscotch p.101
Double-Layer Chocolate
Fudge Cake p.85
Walnut-Buckwheat Toffee
Cakes p.81

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10 2 M A R C H 2024

A very happy
(and gluten-free!)
birthday to us all
P. 85

P H OTO G R A P H BY I S A Z A PATA . F O O D ST Y L I N G BY K A I T L I N WAY N E . P R O P ST Y L I N G BY C H R I ST I N A A L L E N .

Last Call
A little something to sip on from Epicurious’s vast archives

FINO MARTINI
R E CIP E BY A L S O TAC K

Bartenders have gone to some pretty
extreme lengths to set their martinis apart
from the pack. Fat-washed gin. A splash of
chicken broth. An entire platter of garnishes.
But when I’m making one at home, I’m
looking for the blissful simplicity of two
ingredients stirred with ice for 30 seconds.
This sherry martini delivers on that promise, with clean, crisp flavors and just a hint
of ’70s flair. Rather than countering the
gin with the usual herbaceous dry vermouth,
you simply swap in a delicate fino sherry.
Like vermouth, sherry is a fortified wine
10 4 M A R C H 2024

that you should store in your refrigerator
and use within a few weeks. While vermouths can be bitter and botanical, fino
sherry (the driest and least oxidized of
sherry styles) has a nutty, almost savory
character that works wonders in this drink,
whether you’re team olive or team twist.
This particular version is Epicurious
columnist Al Sotack’s adaptation of a fino
martini made famous by a bartender named
Stan Jones. Jones’ Complete Barguide, originally published in 1977, influenced decades
of bartenders with extravagant cocktails
like the Bizzy Izzy Highball, the Pink Squirrel, and the Blinker. But if you ask me,
Jones’s real genius is in two-ingredient
drinks like this classic. —Anna Hezel

Pour 2 oz. London dry gin and ¾ oz.
fino sherry into a mixing glass filled with
ice. Stir until thoroughly chilled, 30–40
seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe glass
and garnish with a lemon twist or green
olives on a cocktail pick. Makes 1

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