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CUTTER’S PRACTICAL GUIDE '
to the cutting and making
:: :: of all kinds of :: ::
British Military Uniforms
Embracing Tunics, Frock Coats,
Service Frocks, Mess Jackets, ::
Overcoats, Capes, Vests, Trousers,
Overalls, Pantaloons, Breeches, and
Puttees. <][ Being Part XIII. of
the Cutters’ Practical Guide to the
Cutting of all kinds of Garments
W. D. VINCENT
Editor of the “Tailor & Cutter.”
and author of numerous Works on
the Science and Art of Cutting
London:
Published by THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY. LIMITED
at the “Tailor and Cutter" Office, 42, Gerrard Street, V\
MIAMI UNIVERSITY IIBW
AUTHOR’S PREFACE
HE recent changes in the garments worn by the officers of the
British Army have affected both style and make, and have
consequently created a demand lor information on many topics.
The large number of details involved in the cutting and making of
the various garments worn by the various regiments has proved a Her-
culean task, and 1 do not hesitate to state it is the book which has cost
me more worry and thought, and has given me more aching heads and
sleepless nights than any work I have ever attempted. I have gone
to bed with its intricacies on my brain, and I have awoke in the morning
with the same theme before me ; and now, after many months’ labour,
the work is in the hands of the trade. 1 trust that which has cost me
much pain will prove to them great gain. I have tried to make the
work thoroughly exhaustive, and 1 have been most generously helped by
several of my former students, who are now engaged in the very best
trades, making’ a speciality of this class of business. I am not al liberty
to mention their names, but I can and do most gratefully acknowledge
the assistance of mv former pupil, Mr. J. Hawkesford, ol the Royal
Army Clothing Department, Pimlico, with whom I have had many con-
ferences, and from whom I have received many helpful suggestions. The
drawings have been made under my supervision, and, in many cases,
they have been sketched from the actual garment. 1 therefore feel con-
fident that the result will be of value to the trade generally, and especially
that part of it which devotes its attention to military’ garments. Every
effort has been taken to avoid mistakes, but as changes are often made,
we suppose it is almost too much to hope for absolute accuracy in every
detail. Still, for this we have tried, and w’e hope our readers will find
the product helpful.
W. D. F. VINCENT.
PUBLISHERS’ PREFACE
'n E^,e hands of the Trade yet another addition to that encyclo-
••’jj It;'.'1 ptvdic work, The Cutti-rs' Practical Guini-:, we realize the vast extent
around that is covered by the comprehensive term. British Tailoring;
\$7 1 ’ and we realize also the enormous amount of knowledge that is necessary
to enable the present-day tailor to fulfil the manifold requirements of his
calling. The two latest volumes of the С. Р. G. have dealt with what are known as
speciality garments, and it is now our privilege to introduce another part which treats
of a branch of the trade that some may consider outside the beaten track, hut which is
one of considerable and growing importance, and one which offers splendid scope to the
cutter who desires to be at once an artist and a thorough master of Ins profession.
In a work on Military Garments so much depends on absolute accuracy of detail and
conformity with the not always easily understandable official regulations, that it is essen
tial. not only that a thoroughly reliable system should he used, hut that the information
conveyed should be verified and confirmed from all the best available sources.
We have no hesitation, in either of these respects, in commending this book as
being, as near as possible, everything that such a book should be. The system is the
now universally approved Cutters Practical Guide system, and the author, Mr. W. D, F.
Vincent, has spared no effort to make it lit to take rank with the most successful of
his previous productions. The Cutters' Practical Guide method has been adopted in
the Army Clothing Depot at Pimlico, it is used by many of the leading Master
Tailors in the Service, and by quite a large number of cutters in the high-class
military tailoring Hnns in the West End.
In addition to this, Mr. Vincent has had access to the official regulations, has
obtained his information, even in matters of the minutest detail, at the fountain head,
and has consulted several of the most expert cutters in the trades where this branch is
made a speciality—whose very cordial assistance he has here much pleasure in
acknowledging.
In the arrangement of the book, every' care has been taken to make it both
trustworthy ami convenient in use. The letterpress has been carefully compared with
the diagrams, and the illustrations are in all cases so placed in context with the
descriptions as to be perfectly easy of reference, and, in a measure, self-explanatory.
In stating, with confidence, that no such valuable work on the subject has ever before
been published, we are reminded of some lines of fennyson which seem particularly
appropriate to the tailoring literature of our time, especially when we think of the
difficulties which the former generations of cutters experienced in the pursuit of trade
knowledge. We quote from memory, but the lines arc something like this:—
" Read rnv little fable,
Hr who runs may read ;
All can groii the flower,
Now all cun get the seed."
Here we have seed of a very special character, gathered by one whose ripe ex-
perience makes the selection sure. It places in the hand of the student a means
of self-cultivation, which, rightly used, cannot fail to bring the flower of success in
due season, and will be equally' valuable to the more mature professor of the art
and science of cutting no matter whether this particular branch of his craft may
be an occasional or a regular part of his work.
the John Williamsox company, limited.
П<»Я
Introduction
Araiy t.’uudliuthia
nfho’ns Drew only
Soak’d I'at rent a
Different Typos nt Drwa ~
Rank ... . - tr
DfeUneilon Badge» for offloera and Mmr
Rank Bridge for NoiM ’roninlftHttMtcd
1)П|(>1ГЯ ... ... ... .♦*
Cavalry Bodges ..................... ♦+•
Eiigiooera' ... ... ••
hifanirv „ —
Artillery и .
A tanri lot 1m
Depth of Skirt*
Reid mental Bniljctrt
Saab»'* ... ... м. m.
EMiman* ol Prices
Меня ii ri и g
I Bust rattan* ot Measuring
tkire ami Proscrvul Ionol Uniform
Gold 1лсе> —
Silver I nee — ... .. m
Rtnnurlitg Stmiin from Scarlet Tunic* nr
Frnrku ............ — • «
Full I tawe Garments
Tunic fur Field Marshal
Tun for Him drill. L lent.-General. Mitjor-
(teneral mul Brig.-Gcncnd
Titnir for Cutonel <ni Ilie Staff mid Suh-
Hinn live Cutencl —. ’•
Tunic for Military Aiiacho
Tunic for Oftlwra trader the Rank m
Cofouel •• .
Tunic for Aale-di’-i тир to Iho King
FillI’fougth Figure, Ulu uraitng Tnuin for
Ai<fo’di*’C.uuj> mthr Klug
Tuttle fur Equerry Ш the King
CUviiln Tunica
Twain for Pragma I Itianh nod Dragontm
Tuai&t for fish Draguiin (itiurdu
HuttMifw Tunic
Military Tiro it: System
Fulbfongth FiguTv. Hneeaw
Diagram c»f Military’ Tunic
Diagram of Military Slcew
Tuttle for Corjiulent Fig uro
Diagram of MdlUtry Tunic for t on>u1ra»t
I
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INDEX
Fulbfongth Figure. IhutMjhoid Cavalry
Frr< к Cmu for Ifotjsehultl Uavaliy
Diagram d MlUuiry Dpuhbt Нваомич!
Frock cWt , '...
Frock Cant for Fool Guards
! rack Coat for Anny Chanlabm
Miltwry D.IL Frock C<»at Syefom -.
The Skirl SvHfom — ’
The Паск Skirt Sysunn
Guiwinil’B Frock (Mat System
Single-Breamed Frock Con!
Diagram of MUltnry Frtck ' oat for
Officers rtf ill ft Guards *
слои
Мгял JwkHH . • -•
М**ча Anakrto for tho Ifoutiehnld Cavalry
Full-length Flgtm» Меад Jarkew—Geaural
Officers, hunt mill back view; Life
(JuurtlH—Field Officer
Миьй Jacket, Rural Iforae Guardo
„ „ Life Huard»
* „ Fuat Guards mi
„ _ Fnld-MunJial
Docnplfoa nt Мезн Jacket for Drnguuu
Gunrds Draguuha, Huamira, Laitcvr»»
llUtee, Departmental Oar|tw aud
vadauM Infantry Regiments
McF3 Jacket for East Kent R« glnitmia
Mw locket for Scoithh Highlandera,
with lllailraikm .-. u
Diagram of East Kent RegiitieiH Mrnft
Jacket and Slecw ♦ ,,
Diagram of Highland Drill and
Jacket and Slrttve • k
Military Mess Jacket, Roll Cnlinr System
Diagram <d Military M •« Jacket
Stand Cnllnr М<шл Jacket
riQO
24
:iu
31
31
M
31
31
:u
.Xi
33
33
XI
31
31
31
:h
31
37
37
JH
.Ш
3»
Figure ...» .•*
Skirt System —
»lone nd Remarks
Ulms н Making up Tunics
Full length Figure. l-anoere
Lauccra Tunln —
LtiirecC» Tun Io Synteui -*♦
Thug ram uf lancer’s 4 utile
The Gorge m. •• -*• *++• *-
Tire Pfoetron 4 , „ , —
Tunic tor Jioynl Held ли,I Garrbon
длтиу
Tunic far Royal Engineer*
Infantry Tnnirw —
I, Foul Gwanb -
IL Infantry of tho Line
111 Highland and Scotch Iteglmentn
IV HJi|« Iteulmonw -
Fitlbteiiglh Figure. Infantry of liw I-lire
Scottish Rifles Doublet
Thu Highland Doublet, Hymeni
Diagrum of lllgbteud Iteuhlrl
'funic for Anny Servht? Corp*
„ _ ArmyMedttai НдЯ
„ „ Royal Army Medical Corp*
„ Ann) Ordnance Department
„ H Army Pay Department
Army Veterinary Ueperttniml
I’rovot Marshal and Military
M<Hiul«d 1'010. .
„ „ Guvi'rntir» ut MHU.ry ITnwi»
Inapeucorut Annr bcho«l»
* „ oilit,r.iIJtoyai MnltaiyColIrKi’.
Sandhurst
.. Royal Horen Art Шегу
Dn*> Jacket fur Ruy» I H<nw Arllltefy
FulMimirtJj Figure^ back and front Ue*r,
Royal Ilnrse Artillery •••
FuU-lt*‘ngih Figure, FieW-Murabal
Diagram of Dres* ducket, K.I-LA. ~.
Frock Ошi for FteM-MarduiL Gcwcra.
Litf<itPiihTit-GrQi*niL Major-Geoeml,
Brigadier-General
Frock (?oai for Culooel on th*? Mail
FnnJk Unai for НспЛциапег. Genvml anil
IVnwnol Staff .................. ”
Frock Omi fur Aide-de-camp tn ilw King
Frock (\»ai fur Ordinary iRhcera (Fro ver-
bal Ferries) . — *♦ ••• /w
Full length Figure, Unirenal Service
Frock (Лан . —. « —
19
211
SI
21
tn
5i
21
21
5;
25
2H
2tl
2»
Mens VchI ... ... *.. •
Dlltu, The System • ♦-
1'Ingram of Stand CVdlor Mews Jacket.
LifoOtrarls -*
Diagram «d Military Ale?» Vest
MtW WiUMcoat for Household Cavalry
Mrau* Vrtrt for Royal Hnnie Guard»
Mees Walwtetiat for Fool Guantai' .......
Mmi Vent Lit Infantry uf Linn
M&e Wabtcwii for Highland and Sivtush
Realmouts ....
Maes Wiffhtconl for Highland Light
Infantry — - ........
Mess Vest* «. ...» ........
11ingrain* of Mrw Veew—
lai I.iff» Guards. Horae Guards ?nd
Life GunniM, Inlontry ot Line, t-ikii
Guards, Highland Light Infantry
Patrol Jacket . ♦«
.. „ for Scottish Rifles ...
„ for King’s Royal Rlllflft
„ „ for Rifle Brigade
FtiIl-leti(flh Figure, Rifle Regiments
Dm grain of Mllitaty Patrol Jacket
Military £*utrol Jacket
Patrol Jacket for Stuff on Hume Scrvu:«*
Patrol Jacket for Ffeld-Marahal, etc.
Frikik i 'oat for Colonri on the Staff
Frock for i llffceraof tlic Headqиartcra
Frock for Peraooal Staff
Frock for AidB-do-camp tn the King
(Jr ne гаТя Frwk System
Frock for Ltoasebold Cavaliy • --
blagnuni nf 1 mtunal Patrol Jacket;
Ifoiischold I’aviilry Frock, boot
Guards Fro*:* ; Sleeve and Culls
Household Cavalry Frock System
Fool Guard's Frock —
Ditto, The System t •••
I'uiH-ngU. f’ltfurt- UtArerWl Snrvira
Fnw l.taii ' Jlajnr- aud 2nd
I Jimteuaut. . ~
Cnlversal Service Jacket • ••
Shoulder Straps r- •••
Butnitu
Badges . -^7
Radges of Rank ... — ••
Cuffs, wilh illustrations
Military Scrvii»Jocke< • .
Diagram! of Wist End Military Service
Jacket and Sleevr ... ..•
АПШдгу Senl«> Jacket Sytrtem 7- --
Diwrranst* of Seated 1‘aiwrn uf Military
L‘nh*«ranl Service Jacket and Sleew
The Кигарягс —
The Sleeve ••• — “•
The Sailed 1‘olieni .....................
Mililarj' Overctal ............ *•. —
Full length Ftaurm MlliWity Ovum*»-
Mounted Gflicer, front and back rfew ,
Ihktitoiiiricd Officer -
Diagram»» of Military Overeout and Slwve
Military Oreroont System -.
J'J
10
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in
Ю
11
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12
13
12
12
12
12
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15
15
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15
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17
IT
14
Pi
4Э
1J
□fl
31
51
RI
51
51
62
53
51
55
5C
Tit<j Cullftf »»♦ —*
Tire Hoove
Huci-ehnld Cavalry Cloak — -•
IHugram ut Cloak and Sleovo for Itoiue*
hold Cat airy
System f»>r Hcnit^kuld Cavalry t teak
F*»t Guanla Ororoaat
Ftw Guanfe’Oretwul Stalem
Diagram nf Fool Guard*’ OvoreuM a I
Kleovti — • . •••
Military Giral Cretw. Duinlnlcnof Canada
Diagram md iUustratfon otDllui
Cutter ... —
Military Troasera
1 life a try' f musier System —
('avulty Owralhi *♦*
Dingnun •( MIIRary Тгоинега
Dlwgmin of Cnrairy ‘ trend la
Fyawm for Scotch Tn*w?
The System . *— —
Another Method 4. »»
Hlntedn Making .« —
Diagram of Scotch Trewn
Uavalrv Тгопы»тй
P.VIltlkluouft «
Cloth Panhiluoos
Syiteni fur Knfckerw
Diagram o( Utelh [*amal**onw
Diagram uf Military Knlckure
HiJlte on ihc ranking up of К Illi
Spat l4tUo<*
1 nagram of Sj ai Putter
Tmwnrlab 1 nlfomt
oniceiY n- ••• -*
Aktae-disCiiinp to the King
Hotwrary Pliyohdan ami liuworarj
Stirgrmi h* the King
Army Staff ... •.. ...
Brigade Commander and t -lLA.
Brigade Mnh*r ..
A’lndntetrallro Medical Officer
S^nff.Cantainw, R.A
Hetvlix? Wm^CtemniamlcMVMH Brigades
IHfora on Shoulder Stпцн ». —
Hank Budges and Letter ”'I
Badges of Hank— Retired Ofhcera
I' uii Uniform Silver Lace
Gold lautr ................ -• •••-
Cord and Lace
iirlra —. »u »
Sintra ... <• *-я — •— — ’
Forage С»]И »»* н» -♦
Swords».
“Sara Browue ” Bell ..........
Mixed Uniform »r» ♦•* *“
Me^Dre&s ... -w »♦<
Sorge Frock -4 ”
Frock Coni
Saddlery —
IltidgHS
Uhtingft* In Pattern
Retired оЮггга
Fiilldmiglh FlgiimH-I'uireraal service
Fmrk Coat, Mw Dres,, Univcraal
Servhxt Drews Full 1 tress l rd form
Territorial* Uniform Non.»’utumlsj>lonwi
Oftivcra and Mi'll > t-
Л tin uni Grant »«- ’•»
Service Drees Com puls; try
Details of S-rvice Drees
(!yt'li*»i BiHtaliann —
FaiigueClmlikig — — »»«
Gn/tuconls
SuiJr of Uniform
Walking-out ’ Drew
Яабквн and Girdle —
Expenditure of Gram ... ... w-
<’hanp-sm Рецепт
Mixed Uniform «. ••
McinlThteft ..
Bttdgro — H-
Gllt Ornnnicnia
Uhtmuiii* «. •-
Iami Embroidery
Elhcfoncy Star ... —
Geneva Urt>«
Badges Skill-at-Arnu
t’tiamiinrlwMl Ifadgei
Uniform on Discharge
Safe of • »ld Uniform^
Supply of Maieriah»
IVyrnent
Uiilforni raratlew
I't'nuuue.ni Staff «. —*
Uniform Abroad
Prraoiiiil CUitluug -H
Git I font»
Chevron* and Biulgm
Uutiiff tinfoil ... ... м —• —
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Tl
Cutter's
Practical
TO ::
Guide
THE CUTTING OF
M1 LITA RY G ARMENTS
INTRODUCTION.
The radical changes made in Military Uniforms
by His Majesty the King has created a demand
lor information on this important subject, such
ns has not beeo experienced for many years. It
ha-., therefore, been deemed an opportune
occasion for me Io write a book on this phase of
tailoring. \t the outset it will be wise lor me to
state quite frankly that I am indebted to many
cutters who have been engaged in this branch
uf the trade practically the whole of their business
lives, and this work is, therefore, not merely the
outcome of my own experience, lint the result of
many conferences I have had with military
specialists, together with the outcome of many
visits to, rmd much correspondence with, the
War Office.
Hit- history of the uniforms of the British
\rmy is one that is lull of fascination, and is
intimately associated with some ol the most
brilliant victories achieved by the force of arm».
" The. Ilin red line “ has long been looked upon
as the symbol of British heroism and pluck, and
111*. beauty of the embroidered scarfs, etc., has
been immortalised by Byron in bis Childe
Harold's Pilgrimage, in the course ol which he
describes ihc. meeting of the rival armies in the
I'eninsular War, the Battle of Waterloo, etc.
We must, however, leave it to other pens to
deal with th« history of military uniforms, for
our Imsincss is neither to eulogist or depreciate
the clothes of our soldiers. We have rather to
treat ol them as they arc, to describe and illus-
trate their lending features, to show how they are
cut. ami Io offer a few suggestions on the making
up of the same.
\RMA CONSTITUTION
Before we proceed to do this, however, it may
be well to briefly describe the constitution of the
British \rnry.
I-irst, there is the General Staff, which have
the control of the entire army and are responsible
for the conduct ol the campaign fhey seldom
come within the limits of the firing- line, and so it
is less important that their garments should be
trimmed In a style Io identify them ns the leaders
of ihv army. They arc rather directors than
leaders: I heir duty is to say tn this man go .md
to Ihc other сшпе, and so on.
1‘hcn there arc the four great branches ol the
army, viz. : The Cavalry, or the horse soldiers;
the Infantry, or the foot soldiers ; the Engineers,
or the skilled mechanics ; and the \rtillery, or
those who look iflrr the guns, etc. \ow, il
natut.dly follows that the different occupations
of these branches will require consideration.
Whilst it is also neccssarv tn provide different
dresses fur different occasions, viz., working, full
dress, and mess In iddition tn these branches
there are various departments, such ns the medi-
cal, the veterinary, the ordnance, and I be pay
Staffs, to be provided for, hui these are mure
auxiliaries than constituents of the irmv proper
The Territorial Forces are organised in much the
мине way, Flic \ eonumry are Cavalry, and in
like manner we have Rifles and Artillerymen, and
so on. Whilst their garments are based on the
same ideals as Ihc uniforms of the Regular
Many, yet many adaptations are necessary, and
we shall, therefore, have to treat of them.
OFFICERS’ DRESS 0X1 \
It will, of course, be understood that we are
here treating of the dress of officers only, the
В
uniform of thf rank and file being- provided for
them by the Government, and is made lor them,
cither at tin Royal Army Clothing Faciory,
Pimlico, or by some of the various contractors,
who make a speciality of this kind of dress.
fire British Officer is not of such .in erect or
square shoulder build as the members oi the rank
and file, the drill he puts in is less exacting, and
the labour he has to perform is less heavy, so
that he docs not develop the muscles of his
shoulders or produce so much prominence of
chest .is those who are under him. Still, it is as
well that the cutter should bear in mind that the
tendency of most officers is to be more or less
erect, and what naturally follows, flat in the back
and prominent in I he chest, and when this is the
case it must be provided for in the cut. Then it
has also to be borne m mind that all garments
worn AVith a separate belt need to be cut much
closer fitting in the waist than the ordinary
garment, but of this we shall deal more particu-
larly when dealing with the garments themselves.
SKA I ED PATTERNS.
Information on any garment worn by any kind
of British officer may be obtained by personally
visiting the \\ ar Office, and there the sealed
garments for nearly every rank and variety of
serv ice may be inspected. Phis is arranged by
Go\ernni<‘nt io facilitate uniformity in the gar-
ments nl the officers, consequently the attendant
in charge will, as a rule, do all in his power to
give the information necessary, and even allow
a rubbing to be taken of any particular section
oi braiding or embroidery, and all this without
fee.
fn addition to this the War Office publish from
lime to time printed details of the regulations,
and considering they’ are not written by tailors
they are fairly explicit, though, in some cases,
the meaning is very difficult to comprehend.
Particulars of the uniforms worn by Territorial
Regiments may generally be obtained from the
Commanding Officer of the regiment. The
Fiames о I these are published in the Official
Army List, published monthly by Messrs. Eyre
and SpotliswiMide. Patterns of a few of these
garments arc deposited at the Royal Anny
Clothing Department, Grosvenor Road, Pimlico,
S.W., where they may be seen by those
interested. Applications to view must be made
in the Chief Inspector at that establishment.
DIFFERENT I’YPES OI DRESS.
There are at present three distinct types of
dress, the first is the full-dress, which is worn on
alt occasions oi State or ceremony, such as when
appearing before llis Majesty the King, or on
such ceremonies ns are usually looked upon as
requiring full-dress.
The second is a service dress, and it Is this
which has undergone so great a change, both in
cut, make, and finish. Illis dress is worn on
□Clive service both at home and abroad, and is
practically the same fur .ill branches ol the
Service. I he third is the me>-s dress, which is
worn by i hr officers at mess ordiivier, when they
ill dine together in barracks or elsewhere. This
dress has been very greatly simplified, and is now
made of practically one pattern with a few varia-
tion- in detail.
In addition to these three types of dress there
is the overcoat, which is of quite a distinct style
to wh.it was formerly worn, and is as nearly as
possible the same for all services, a slight
adaptation being made for mourned officers.
Tile garments we describe are as follows
i. Tunic.
2. Lancers' Tunic.
3. Doublet
4. R.H.A. Dress Jacket.
5. D.B- Frock Coat
6. S.B. Frock Coat
7. Mess Jackcis.
8. Mess Vests.
9. Patrol Jackets.
10. !• rocks.
11. Universal Service Frock.
12. Overcoats.
13. Infantry Trousers,
tg Cavalry Overalls.
15. Pantaloons’ Cloth.
16. I’ inlaloons' Bedford Cord.
ту. Knickers.
RANK
The Officers of the Army differ in rank as
follows :—
Second Lieutenant is lower than Lieutenant
Lieutenant is lower than Captain.
Captain is lower than Major.
'Major is lower than I ieutenant-Colonel.
Liciitenant-Cnliinvl is lower than Colonel.
Colonel is lower than Brigadier-General
Brigadier-General is lower than Major-General.
Mnjor-lit-ni-r.il is lower than Licuten mt-
General.
Lieutenant-General is lower than General
General is lower than Field-Marshal.
Field-Marshal is head of the Army
Each ol these ranks are distinguished by
badges, as per illustration.
Tlicsc, interpreted into words, read as
follows :—
Field-Marshal : Crossed batons on a wreath ol
laurel, with a crown above.
General: Crossed sword and baton, with star
and crown ribiivt-.
Lieutenant-General • Crossed sword and baton,
with crown above.
Major-General: Crossed swrord and baton, w th
si ar above.
Brigadier-General: Crossed sword and baton.
Colonel: Crown and two stars below.
Lieutenant-Colonel: Crown and one star
below.
Major : Crown.
Captain ; Three stars.
Lieutenant : Two stars.
Second Lieutenant: One star.
'Ilie official regulations resjvecting these badges
of rank are as follows:—•
Badges of rank, except when otherwise
ordered, will be worn on all shoulder cords and
shoulder straps. They will be in silver em-
broidery on gold shoulder cords, and gold-laced
shoulder straps, and gilt or gilding metal on
plain cloth shoulder straps. In Rille Regiments
they will be in bronze. The crossed sword is
2 inches full and the baton -i inch shorter. The
crowns when laid on shoulder cords or straps are
i inch broad and i inch in height ; the stars are
i inch between opposite points.
The batons forming part of the Field-Marshal’s
badges will be in embroidery and crimson velvet.
General Officers’ badges are worn in pairs,
point of sword to the front and edge of blade
outwards or towards the arm.
Regimental Officers having Brevet Rank wear
the badges of their army rank ; Departmental
Officers having honorary rank, the badges of
that rank ; anrl Departmental Officers not having
honorary rank, the badges of the combatant
grade with which they rank.
RANK BADGES FOR
NON-CO M Ml SSI ON ED () FFICE RS.
(See Plate of Illustrations.)
Although I his book only deals with the uniform
worn bv Commissioned Officers, yet we have
thought it well to give some illustrations of the
rank badges used to distinguish the Non-
Commissioned Officers, thinking they may prove
of service to our readers.
The badge ranks for
C WAL RY
are arranged in the following order: Sergeant-
Major, Troop Sergeant-Major, Quart er-Master-
Sergennt, Sergeant, Corporal, Farrier-Sergeant,
Corporal-Farrier, I 'rumpet-Major, Trumpeter,
Rough Rider. Most of these badge marks are
worked in gold lace or thread, with here and
there a touch of red, as, for instance, in the
horseshoe for the farrier. The holes are in red,
and as nearly all Cavalry tunics are macle from
blue cloth, this helps to show up the design.
ENGINEERS.
The Engineers, cm the other hand, generally
wear red tunics, and here again, the badge ranks
are worked with gold lace or braid, but in the
case of the Bugle-Major, where flags form a part
of the ornament, a little blue is inserted. i he
badge ranks for the Engineers tire arranged in
the following order: Sergeant-Major, Troop
Sergeant-Major, Sergeant, Quarter-Master Ser-
geant, Corporal, Lance-Corporal, Bugle-Major,
Furrier-Major, SergCant-Whecler, Wheeler,
Corps of Ordnance Artificers, Shooting Prize.
INFANTRY.
Infantry tunics are generally made from red
cloth, and for the most part they have the badges
worked in gold lace or thread ; there are some
few badge marks, however, which are made of
white, such as the Corporal and Lance-Corporal,
Bandsman, and Pioneer, the rest are worked in
gold As placed on this Plate, they are arranged
in the following order : Sergeant-Major, Colour-
Sergeant, Quarter-Mastcr-Scrgcant, Musketry-
Instructor, Sergeant, Corporal, Lance-Corporal,
Band-Sergeant, Bandsman, Sergeant-Pioneer,
Pioneer, anrl Drum-Major.
In the case of the badge for the Colour-Ser-
geant, where the Hag forms the leading part of
the design, blue is worked in as well as red, so
ns to produce the Union Jack.
ARTILLERY.
Artillery badges are for the most part worked
with gold lace on blue, and arc arranged in the
following order: Master Gunner (ist class),
Master Gunner (2nd class), Master Gunner (3rd
class), Battery Sergeant-Major, Quarter-Master-
Sergeant, Sergeant, Corporal, Bombardier,
Rough Rider, and Farrier. We have illustrated
one or two badges of a general character. For
instance, we have given .1 series of good conduct
badges ; that for the non-commissioned officer
is of gold lace on blue cloth, that for the Private
in tlie Cavalry, Artillery, and Engineers of
yellow braid on'blue cloth, that for the Private in
the Infantry white braid on red cloth, whilst the
badge for the Army Hospital Corp* is a cross of
red i inth on a white ground and placed on blue
cloth.
’I hose badges indicated by wavy lines an made
of gold laccj and those which are left plain are
for the most part made from braid or worsted,
the exception being Carporal and Lance-Corporal
nf the Engineers and Corporal and Bombardier
of the Artillery, which are of gold. Ail the
ornaments are worked in gold except that for
Infantry Pioneer, which is of worsted.
AIGUILETTES.
Whilst writing of these it may be well to refer
to the Mguilette. The Staff Mguilette is worn
bv those officers only who are Serving on the
Headquarter, General, and Personal Staff, and
only by them when performing Stall duties. I'he
following are the official regulations:—
Cord ’-inch gold and red Orris basket, with
plait and cord loop in front and same at back,
the plaits ending in plain cord with gilt metal
tags. l"he plaits and cords, front and hack, are
joined together by a short scarlet cloth strap, in
which is worked a button hole. The aiguik-tte is
attached to the shoulder of the tunic or frock
coal In a button placed under the outer end of
the shoulder cord. The long cord is looped up
<m the top or front cord, tile front cord and the
short and long plaits are fastened together, and
a sn.all gold braid loop is fixed thereon to attach
to tin top button of the tunic attd frock coat on
the latter on Ihc side on which the aiguilelte is
wont. Tlte arm is passed between the front
plait and cord, and the back or long plait and
cord.
rhe aiguilette is worn on the right shoulder by
all Officers of the I Ivadcptarlers Staff of the
Artnv and by the Personal Staff of tin- Governor-
General of Canada and Colonial Governors, and
on the left shoulder by other Staff Officers
entitled to wear it.
Another style of aiguilelte is worn by Field-
Marshals and the. Personal >taif of the king ind
Royal Family, the details of which are that it is
made of gold wire curd -J inch in diameter, with
gilt embossed tags, and it is worn on the right
shoulder.
In addition to these badges there arc the
special regimental devices worn on the collars ol
Itinirs, the lapels of Mess Jackets. There is such
a large variety nf these that we content ourselves
with .1 few specimens, representing the. various
branches of the army.
The same remark applies to the buttons used
on military garments, though it is well to add
that dl Military Buttons, with the exception of
vest buttons, are die struck, the vest buttons arc
mounted.
In addition to these marks of distinction there
is also a little difference made in lengths of skirts,
the official regulation being as follows;—
DEPTH OF SKIRTS.
The skirts of tunics for officers 5 feel 9 inches
in height will be : —
For Field-Marshals, General Officers, ami
Colonels on the Stnfl, Royal \rtillcry, Royal
Engineers, Foot Guards, Infantry Regiments,
Army Service Corps, Royal Army Medical Corps,
and Departments generally- —to inches. For
Staff, Cavalry, and Rifle Regiments—9 inches.
The proportionate variation lor each inch of
difference in height is about J inch in the skirts
ol tunics.
The skirts ol I rock coats reach Io the knees.
SASHES.
1 he following ire the regulations lor Sashes
and Sword Belts :—
Mi Sashes are now worn round the waist, as
per special Army Order lor June, 1902.
Sashes are of such length that the ends of the
tassels shall just reach the bottom of the skirt of
iht- tunic.
Sword belt», other than pattern known as the
“.Sam Browne" helt are worn as follows:—
Over the tunic (or doublet) by the Personal
St.ill of the Sovereign and Royal Family, and
by officers of all arms except by Field-Marshals,
General Officers, Colom Is ott the Staff, Equerries
to the Roval Family, Officers of Cavalry of the
I ine, Mounted Officers of Royal Artillery, and
Rille Regiments.
Over the blue Irock coal and under patrol
jackets and frocks.
The web belt is worn by Officers of all
branches of the .Service who wear the sword belt
under the tunic, patrol jacket, or frock. Slings
an- made with studs and holes, so that they can
be removed from the belt if required.
It is nnt our intention to touch on the matter
of caps and other accoutrements, ns full informa-
tion on these can be obtained from the War
Office Regulation Book, nr from those houses
who make a speciality of supplying such goods.
ESTIMATE 01 PRICES.
The following estimate of prices for a Second
Lieutenant's garments has been obtained from
the \rtny and Navy Stores, and will supply our
readers with some idea of the prices charged by
a firm who do this class of trade well, and at the
same time cut prices rather tine. The fact that
they probably du us large a military trade as any
firm in London should make this estimate a
valuable one, ami will serve as a guide for our
readers to Work to.
X S. d.
Tunic, Badges extra .............-........ 700
Mess Jacket, Badges extra . ...from 1 1 о
Mess Vest ................. 1 ; 6
Mess Overalls ....................... t 16 о
Frock Coat, Badges extra ............ 5 to о
Undress Overalls ................. 1 16 о
Great Coat................................ 440
Service Jacket, Badges extra . ... . 2 to о
Knickers, Breeches ......... ..... 1 10 о
Helmet ... ........................... .290
Blue Forage Cap, Badge extra о 17 6
Service Forage Cap, complete ... O 15 6
Waist Sash ............................. 240
Web Belt and Sword Sling ............... 1 to о
Dress Sword Knot . , ....... о to 6
Sword ... ..... ... 3 7 6
Sword Bag.................... ...---- о to о
Sword Knot, Brown . . о 2 0
“Sam Browne’’ Belt 1 15 a
“ S.un Browne " Scabbard . - ...... о 12 6
Two Pairs Brown Gloves . о 8 6
One Pair White Gloves .................... 036
Whistle and Lanyard .. .038
Spat Puttees ................. per pair 096
Cap Badge .......
Collar Badges..................... ...
Uniform Case ..... ..... ... t 15 О
FIELD SI-КХ ICE I \IFORM.
Khaki Serge Patrol ....... ........... 2 10 о
Khaki Serge GvcnDs, with footstrap?, 1 о о
Khaki Drill Patrol 1 12 о
Khaki Drill Overalls, with footstraps о 13 6
Bedford Cord Pantaloons, strapped
Buckskin a 12 6
Bedford Cord Breeches, -trapped
Buckskin .. 2 17 6
Khaki Cabin Cord Breeches, strapped
same material ................. 1 12 6
Khaki Great Coal . 3 15 о
Khaki ' British W urn*' Great Coat,
lined Serge . ..........-----....... 3 о о
I'uttees, Blue ur Khaki, pet pair, from □ 3 о
Pigskin Puttee Leggings, .per pair I 1 о
Regulation Khaki Helmet and pugri. 1 1 о
Khaki Fell Slouch Hat (Badge exIns) о 10 6
Khaki Serge Fatigue Cap, plain
buttons ......... о 10 6
Khaki Serge Staff f orage Cap with
peak . . . о 13 6
" Sam Brow'ne “ Relf, Scabbard and
Knot, complete .. ... 2 to о
Silk Revolver Lanyard . 036
Silk \\ histle I .anyard 010
Khaki ll iversack . .. о 4 6
adjustable Spine Protector . .. 07b
Movable Gorget Patches, Generals,
per pair ..... .. .... ... ............ 070
Movable Gorget Patches, Staff and
Departmental, per pair . . ..060
Movable Gorget Patches, Civil Medi-
cal, per pair ..... .. 040
NEW SERVICE I \ IFO RM
(1902 Patterns).
Service Jacket, according to rank trom 2 to о
Service Knickcr Breeches . . г го о
Service Pantaloons, Strapped Buck-
skin .. ... ........212 b
Service Breeches, strapped Buckskin 2 17 6
Service On rails, with footstraps 1 о о
Service Cap and Badge о 15 6
Sen ice Great Coat . , ..... 440
Service Spat Pulti i-s, per pair ............ 090
N.B Ml badges and distinctive marks on
above coals charged extra.
ME \SURING.
Tiie system described in the following pages is
one thud is especially adapted lo the production
of military garments, .is tnay be gathered from
the fact that it has been adopted by the authori-
ties at Pimlico, lor the instruction of those who
pass through the cutting school, with the view of
becoming master tailors, and is also used in some
ol the best military houses in the West End. It
is based on the principles ol direct measurement,
which, in our opinion, is the safest to use for all
kinds of customers, and especially so for I hose
who are tit all disproportionate. The measures
may bt taken with accuracy and speed after a
very little practice, and in order make the ptin-
ciph of these measures plain we hav< prepared
the accompanying figures :
The Measures we apvisp зге ns follows:
Ches’, waist. hips, depth of scye, length to
waist, full length, width across back, continue to
elbow, continue to cuff, neck, front shoulder,
over shoulder, across chest, and height of neck.
The latter may generally be dispensed with. I he
only measures we need spcci illy refer to, are the
level with this mark and ao get point desired,
(j) Place tape over neck, saddle fashion, bring it
back under the arms to centre ol buck, see that
it is level and so obtain mark. Either method
will produce good results. Measure from nape
of neck A, I ig. I, Io B.
Front Shoulder.—Measure trom \, big. i,
by IJ to E, which is the level of bottom of scye
in front of arm.
Over Shoulder.—Measure from B, big. i,
over shoulder al C to E, Fig. t.
Across Chest.—Measure from F, Fig- to
the front of scye on opposite side G.
Height of neck measures from \, Fig. r, by
H, Fig. J, to a point anywhere about lh< region
of I, note this quantity, fix the tape and measure
up to collar seam at [.
The other measures are taken as usual.
\n average scale of measurements tor the pro-
portionate figure is as follows:—
?
5
34
36
38
-10
-12
14
46
•IS
50
:w
32
34
37
IWi
42
-16
50
54
£
•i
6
5
811
9
I
to*
m;
II
11}
a
i
i«4
18}
184
Iw
17
17}
l’i!
IS
Лсгтмм Back. Full Length SleC’vr Acmes Chest g $ Over PbouMer
6‘S :<t 78 12 16)
7} з2 8 12} 17
7,. 33 SA 1 1 171
8 334 9 13} ISA
кН 334 9* 14 mi
8? 34 HI 14* 20
9 34 1U} In} .‘I
!>} 34 11 16 22
9} 34 HA 16} 23
Here is the scale used it Pimlico :—
llrenni
<;t
35
37
39
41
43
In
FMrprh Nnturul Frotil Over
Watai оГ Scj e. Watai, sI»’1<1t яНнИНгг Collar. Height.
29 SA 16 n; 16 15 5ft. Jin.
29 16 12} 16$ 15 5ft Sin.
•JO « 16A 12} 17Й 18 5ft. 1*111.
34 Si t-U I3| 184 16} 5ft 7iti.
36 94 17 i-b 18a 17 5ft. .Sui.
38 171 11} HlR 17,| 5ft. 9in.
40 91 17} 14} 20j| 18 5ft. Win.
depth of scye, the front shoulder, the over
shoulder and Ihc cross chest.
To find the depth of scye make a mark, or put
in a pin on the centre of back level with the
bottom of scye ; there are various methods of
obtaining this. (i| Take the square, bring it up
to the armpit, make a mark al the back scye,
now remove the square, place it across the back
The latter is based on the assumption that the
military figure is decidedly erect. This is un-
doubtedly the (pct with the rank and file, but
those who are constantly engaged in the military
trade for officers issurc me th it in the majority
of cases then is only the slightest variation in
the attitude or form of the British Olliccr from
the well-built English gentleman.
The following useful hints have been issued by
the War Office on the
CARE AND PRESERVATION OF
UNIFORM
\rticles of Uniform liable to be moth-eaten
should be unfolded at intervals and well beaten
and brushed in ihe open air. Russia leather
parings, powdered camphor, naphthaline, carbo-
liscd paper, or turpentine sprinkled on brown
paper, or on the garments, are good for the pre-
vention of moth, and one or another of these
preventative* should be placed amongst articles
of uniform which are to be packed away lor any
time.
Before being packed away, gold lace, braid,
cord, or buttons on garments should be covered
with tissue paper, and then placed in tin-lined
air-tight cases. Care must be taken to use paper
that is thoroughly dry. For the prevention of
moth, Ihe garments should be well aired and
brushed before being packed.
GOLD LACE.
Gold trimmings and gold lace that have be-
come slightly tarnished can be cleaned with a
mixture of cream of tartar and dry bread rubbed
up very line, applied in a dry state, and brushed
lightly with a clean soli brush.
Another plan of cleaning tarnished gold lace is
Io apply turkey rhubarb with a soft brush. II it
is dirty it should be dipped in a solution of
cyanide of potassium, but if this is used special
care should be taken of it, as it is a strong poison.
SILVER LACE.
'Го clean silver I ice, wet it with plain magnesia
applied with a soft brush,
REMOVING STAINS FROM SCARLET
TUNICS OR FROCKS.
In many cases stains may be removed by the
part affected being rubbed with dry pipeclay and
then well brushed with a clean brush. Should
this fail to remove them the following mixture
may be tried:—
J ounce of salts of sorrel to j a pint of boil-
ing water.
J ounce of cream of tartar to A a pint of cold
water.
Each solution should be kept in a separate flat
vessel.
These quantities will be sufficient to clean two
or three garments.
Tire garment which requires cleaning should
he first well beaten ant] brushed, and i perfectly
clean hard brush should he used in applying the
solutions.
The solutions should be applied alternately,
commencing with the salts of sorrel, until the
garment has been washed all over, and all the
stains removed.
If the weather permit, the cleaned garments
should l>e hung up in the sun to dry ; if not, they
should be hung up in n dry place, but not near
fires or stoves.
\nothcr plan of cleaning scarlet cloth is to
dissolve a pennyworth of .salts of lemon in warm
water with half a lemon sliced in addition. Put
this on with a soft brush and finish by rubbing it
with a piece of clean scarlet cloth.
FULL DRESS GARMENTS.
Starting with full dress, the principal garment
which claims our attention is the Tunic, together
with its variations, the Highland Doublet, the
Larners' Tunic, and the R.H.A. Dress Jacket.
The body-part for most of these is the same, as
will be seen by the diagram on succeeding pages,
Ihe back is cut on the crease, the shoulder seam
is cut decidedly high, a fair amount of round is
given to ihe side body, the waist seam is placed
exactly at the natural waist, and ample room is
given to the chest in all cases. We will, how-
ever, describe the system for cutting this when
we deal with the diagrams ; at Ihe present stage
we will describe how Tunics are made for the
different ranks.
IT NIC FOR FIELD M \RSI1AL.
This is made of scarlet cloth with collar and
cuffs of blue cloth ; gold embroidery is placed on
the collar and cuffs ; the cuffs are 3 inches deep,
and the gold embroidery is з-J inches deep round
the lop.
A flap is put on each sleeve, 61 inches deep
and J inches wide between the point ; it is made
of starlet cloth embroidered in gold.
Sword flaps are placed at the back of each
skirt, J meh shorter than the skirt itself. I he
width at the boilom point being 3 inches. The
number of buttons down the front is 8 ; 2 are
placed behind and three on each flap: an edging
of white cloth wide is put down the front,
round the collar, cuffs, and flaps. Ihe shoulder
cords are of gold plaited wire basket cord inch
in diameter, with a small gold gimp down the
centre. The strap of the shoulder cord is з|
inches wide, ending in a 4-inch wing; an
niguilette ol gold wire cord | inches in diameter,
with gill embroidered tags, is worn on the right
shoulder.
TUNIC FOR GENERAL, LIEUTENANT-
GENERAL, MAJOR-GENERAI \ND
BRIGADIER-GENERAL.
This Гинн- is made oi scarlet cloth, with collar
and cuffs of blue cloth ; gold embroidery is put
on the collar and cufls, the cuffs art made 3
inches, die gold embroidery being 1} inches
deep round the lop. Flaps of scarlet cloth .ire
put on <• a h sleeve i»J niches deep and * inches
wide between the points ; this is embroidered in
gold : a sword Яир is put at the back oi each
skirt A inch shorter than the skirt and 3] inches
wide at the bottom point. ITirre are 8 buttons
down the front, 3 un each tlap and 2 at the waist
behind. White cloth edging wide is put
down thi front, round the collar, on ihc Haps,
Cuffs, and skirt. .Shoulder cords of gold plaited
wire basket cord Д inch in diameter, with a
small gimp down centre. Ihc width of the strap
of the shoulder cord is 2] inches, and nt the end
.1 small .|-inch wing.
\n eyelet hole is placed at the end next to the
collar for a small gilt button ; the underside of
the. cord is lined with scarlet cloth and has a gilt
or gilded metal fastening below.
TUNIC FOR COLONEL UN HIE SI AFI'
AND SUBSTANTIVE COLONEL.
'Hits is made of scarlet cloth with collar and
cults of blue cloth ; the collar is laced round the
top and bottom with J-inch lace, round the cuff
3 inches deep with two row of 3 inch lace round
the top. showing g-in<h of blue doth between
the b its.
A Hap of scarlet cloth is placed on each sleeve
n inches long, and 2J inches wide al tin- point ;
this is edged with lace 4 inch wide. A sword
flap is put at (he back of each skirt, reaching to
within 1 inch of the bottom. The flaps arc made
j inch wide it Ilie lop, 1^ inches at the centre
point, and at the bottom. A bar of Ц lace
from the centre of the waist to the bottom of the
skin, 8 Inittons down the front, 3 on each flap,
the top button on the flap behind being at the
waist. The front, collar, cuffs, flaps, and bar of
lace, and the skirls are edged with white cloth
рл inch wide. T in Tunic is lined with white,
round ihc waist a band of white leather, 2 inches
wide, fastening with 2 hooks and eyes, twisted
round gold shoulder cords of the universal
pattern, lined with scarlet and a small button at
the top.
I UN It FOR A Mfl.ITARA VfT ACHE.
Tutiii lor Militate Attache is same as lor
Cotone! on the Stan with the Sial! aiguilelte
and forage cap.
TUNIC FOR OFFICERS UNDER HIE
RANK Ol CUI UMI.,
funic lor these Officers is same as Colonel oti
the Staff, only they have one bar ol lace on the
collar and cuffs.
TUNIC FOR AIDE-DE-CAMP TO THE
KING.
Ihis is made ol scarlet cloth with collar and
cufls of blur doth : Ilie skirt is cut 12 inches
deep for an Officer 5 feet 9 inches in height, with
a proportionate i ariation for any difference in
height. On each side in front there are R Mi light
loops of Mnhair cord--which are not pierced
through the cloth, hut carried to the front—which
is drawn in, a regulation which has been made
so that the garment may be available for use on
promotion ; these loops are 4 inches long below
the waist, and 5 ni lies above the waist, on the
left side, ft fastens down the front with hooks
and eyes, but buttons .in plugged flown the left
side (see page 10J. A gold embroidered irog
drop loop is placed on each side oi the collar, a
round cuff 3 inches deep, .mil a scarlet flap is
placed on each sleeve With three embroidered
loops and bultons. The length of the loop is to
be t( inches, exclusive of the drop.
A sword flap ol scarlet cloth is placed on the
back of each skill, 10 inches lung and 2 wide,
with Iwo loops and bultons similar to those on
the sleeve.
Two bultons on the waist behind ; an edging
of white cloth, inch wide, is put round the
collar, cult's, flaps, and back skirt
Ilie skirts arc lined with white, and an inside
breast pivcket is put on tin left side, and pockets
are pul inside each skirt behind. Ilie front of
th s Tunic is fastened with hooks and eves.
10
TUB cutter's practical. o«jdh
AioHs-im-c\v,p to the King,
TUNIC FOR EQUERRY* TO THE KING.
This is practically the same as lor the AHe-de-
Catnp, but there are four embroidered loops and
buttons on Ihe sleeves.
CAVALRY TUNICS;
The Cavalry Tunic of the 1st Life Guards is
made of scarlet cloth, with blue velvet cellar
culls, and edging with stitched edges.
Cuji for Firltl Offirtr
The Tunic for the and Lite Guards is made of
scarlet cloth, but has blur velvet collar and cuffs,
and edging with stitched edges.
The Tunic for the Royal Horse Guards is blue
cloth, with scarlet, doth collar and cuffs and
edging : on each side of the collar is placed an
Cuff for Ifjfiw Mui" Md ZI.Tnt,
embroidered device 5A to 1» inches long and 2
inches wide. The cuffs arc gauntlet shape and
are embroidered in a similar manner to the
collar.
Buttons are placed in the centre of the em-
broidery, ami three loops of embroidery of the
same pattern are placed on the back skirt.
There are g buttons down the Irani, 2 at the
waist behind. The front ol the skirt is rounded
and it is lined with blue cassirncre in the ist Life
Guards; scarlet Italian in the 2nd Life Guards ;
scarlet cassirncre in the Royal Horse Guards,
A gold cord aiguilette, with engraved gilt tags,
is worn on the right shoulder ; a plaited gold
cord on ihe top of the shoulder.
A strip of embroidery §-inch wide is placed
round the top ol the collar and cuffs ol the I unics
worn by Ihe Field Officers.
TUNICS FOR DRAGOON GUARDS \ND
DRAGOONS.
These are made of scarlet cloth with collar and
cuffs ol the colour oi the regulation facing.
These are as follows:—
The ist (King’s (hvn), the 3rd (Prince of
Wales'), _|th (Royal Irish), 51I1 (Princess I har-
lotte of Wales'), 7th Dragoon Guards, of velvet.
In ihe 2nd Dragoon Guards (Queen's Bays), ist
Royal. 2nd Royal, Scotch Greys, and 6th Innis-
killings, of cloth.
The collar ornamented with J inch lace, with
Ihe exception of the 2nd Dragoon Guards
(Queen's Bays) and ist Royal Dragoons, which
have 1 inch.
Round the top of collar and down tin- front
only for Officers of all ranks.
the cuffs are made 2 inches deep at the point,
H at the hack edge, with round back gold cord,
forming a single \ustrian knol 7, inches deep;
8 buttons are placed up the front and 2 at the
waist behind ; a sword Пар of scarlet cloth is
placed at the back of the skirt, edged with round
hack gold cord and traced inside and out with
gold Russia braid. The front is edged with the
same material and colours as lacings of the skirt
are lined with white, platted gold shoulder cord
lined with scarlet and small button at the tup.
TUNICS FOR №1 DR \GOON GUARDS.
Tunic is made from blue cloth, the top and
bottom of Ihe collar has round back gold cord all
round, pointed «niffs, are of white cloth, the collar
is laced with cord like that for other Dragoon
Guards ; cuffs for all ranks are trimmed with a
single Austrian knot, and a tracing oi plain
braid. lite Austrian knot is about 7) inches
deep.
There are 8 buttons placed up the Iront, and
2 at the back of Ihe waist ; a sword Hap of blue
clot.., shaped with three points, is placed on the
back of each skirt ; it is trimmed with 3 buttons
and edged with round back gold cord, plaited
flat gold shoulder cord lined with blue, and a
small button al the top.
HUSSAR'S TUNIC.
This is made of blue doth and edged all round
with gold chain gimp, on each side of the breast.
six loops ol golrl chain gimp with caps and
drops, fastened with gold worked olivets, on each
back seam a double line of the same gimp form-
ing three eyes al the tup, passing under a netted
cap at the waist and terminating with .tn Austrian
knot right to the bottom of the skirt, a tracing of
gold braid all round the gimp, and \iistrian knot
of gold chain gimp is placed on each sleeve,
reaching to 8 inches front the bottom of the cuffs ;
the skirt is rounded off in the front and closed
behind, and lined with black : sltould«T cords of
plaited gold chain gimp lined with blue, a small
button al the hip. The collar is of blue except
for ihc 13th, which is white, tnd the 3rd, which
is red, there is J inch gold lace on too and down
end of front collar. Gohl chain gimp on the
collar scam.
MILITARY TUNIC SYSTEM.
Draw line 1 G, make t to О t inch, from О to
1 , depth of scye as taken on the customer, О to
G depth of scye as taken on the customer.
if to E is i depth of scye plus | inch, square
line across from 1 E F G, from () to E A depth of
scye phis ' inch, square lines across from 1
E F G. This must be done quite straight as the
bark is taken out on the crease. From 1 to A
is £ of the neck measure plus f inch, front E
to I) is the width of back plus } inch, and from
this point square up to В J of the breast plus
1 inch.
Front В mark our to C, from f to 1 inch, and
by these points shape back scye Irani C to D,
anil shoulder seam from C to A and back neck
from О to A Dtaw line from D to G and hollow
the side seam of back at I about | inch, the
width of the back from H to Q is made equal
to one-eighteenth of the breast, thus a inches for
a 36 size.
From (J to R is 2 inches, the waist suppression
taken out of a Tunic being rather more than for
:tn ordinary coat, for Ilie reason that it is held
very close to thi waist by the aid of the belt,
use point 1J as a nivut end sweep from Q to У ,
and so get the length of the side body at back.
Make |n>iiit 1 a pi- ot and sweep forward from
point, I inch above I), ns shown ; to find top of
side body take out J inch at top and draw side
seam of side body, as from D 1 R to V, from
point ’ to J, is | of the breast, from point J to I
is J chest measure plus inches, from L to l<
is across chest measure as taken 011 customer ;
there arc some, however, who prefer to find the
front of scye by measuring across from J to К
if uf the breast measure. We now proceed to find
the neck point by sweeping from К in the
direction of N by the front shoulder measure, less
rhe width of back neck from О to A, add r meh
to this quantity and sweep again, making point
I 1 pivot, and where these two segments inter-
sect each other, locates the neck point. Now
measure the distance from ] to О S, deducting
il from the over-shoulder measure, as taken on
rhe customer, and sweep by th- remaintier, make
point К n pivot and sweep in the direction ol
about I inch in front oi the line drawn up from
К. 'Го mid point 0, place the squmi' on I N and
mark out from to t> 1 o' the neck, main
M. this will give the slope of the shoulder.
M. kc the distance from M to h ] meh less than
from \ to C and draft the scye, advancing it
down from О IO г i ol neck plus | inch. The
size of the neck should be carefully checked bv
the measure taken, hut very little variation will
be found necessary in the majority of crises ;
square a linn- down from J and hollow the sidi
body J inch at S, and the forepart i inch at T.
Tins makes 1A inches of suppression taken out of
the uudemrm seam. Now measure up the waist
from H to Q, R to S and T to U to the | waist
measure phis i meh. Square a line across Irom
V to X and hollow the waist scam 1 inch at XX
\dd on J inch for the button holes, but cut the
button side to the breast line, and sew on the
button stand.
Till SKIRT
Draw line from X to \ straight, measure
down from X to "Z one-twelfth of the scat phis
i inch and draw line V to Л X at right angles to
V Z. add on J inch of round at the back, and get
the spring of the front by measuring down from
V io I one-twelfth of the seal minus I inch, draw
line trom X to BB at right angles to *Y. It will
he seen that the left edge is not so advanced as
the right edge.
The extra width of the button stand necessi-
tates the extra width of skirt on the right side,
hollow waist seam -} meh and complete as
diagram.
XX'e give the illustration of the back skirt,
which is rut separately. Draw- line from H to
CC, make II to Q 2 inches. CC to DD a|
inches, add on 4 inch for seams above H <J, and
allow A inch for side pleat beyond Q. DD.
THE SLEEVE.
Military sleeves are pitched ar the top of side
seam behind and . inch above the level of scye
in front 'ITte sleeve must, ol course, be made to
fit the scye. Draw line t> to J, О tn X is the
u nltlt of scye, which may be found by deduct-
ing the width of back from | to К. О to 1 j is
if inches always, if to ( is the size ol the top
scye between the two pitches, and found by
measuring from D to C and M to forearm pitch.
О to К is .1 the distance Irom to C. Xdd on
{ inch of round al I. and complete sleeve head
as illustrated. Measure off the length of sleeve
Io elbow and cuff, make the width of cuff I rum
F lo H | of the breast and hollow It at the fore-
arm irom Г to G i inch. From I to К is made
about J of rhe breast. J to I may be made Ц
inches, 01 run id tin cuff can be found by squar-
ing at 11 К Tile underside sleeve is found by
measuring round the bottom of the scye from К
J to D, and measure. across from X to Г) of
sleeve. X to E is about 4 of r} D, the underside
sleeve may be drawn by these points, continue
down from D to H anti complete sleeve as shown,
'litis - sleeve applies to all ordinary garments.
TUN'IC FOR CORPULENT FIGURE.
Corpulent figures vary from the normal, par-
ticularly in the difference of proportion of the
shoulders to the breast rind waist measures, or,
in other words, when a figure begins to develop
corpulency the size of the shoulders does not in-
crease m the same ratio as the breast and waist.
The development is ns 1 inch at the breast to ,!
inch at the shoulders. If I lake a military tunic
to thi 48 breast and 48 waist we may be .ible to
learn something by working it out, especially
with regard to fixing the waist lengh of the front.
Ilie military scale measures fur such a figure
are as follows: Depth of scye 10A natural
waist 18, skirt length iti, or total length 28$,
across back 8$, front shoulder 16, over-shoulder
22, neck or collar measure 18^. If this size is
О is the starting point for measuring length of
back.
О to 10A is depth of scye, О to iSA nalui.d
waist, (J to jSJ the full length of tunic.
Mark in A inch at iS, and draw line for centre
of back.
to be drafted out bv the breast measure a work-
ing scale of 45 inches should be taken lor the
shoulder quantities.
I he diagram is produced as follows :
Square lines at right angles to A. From A to
О is 1 inch.
(J to 5^ is hall depth of scye and A inch.
Square lines across from 5^, 10^, 18, and 28A.
Mark off al \ one-sixth ol the neck and -J inch.
The width ol back is made 8! plus J inch.
Square up from width of back one-sixth of
breast and 1 inch.
Draw back scye and shoulder scum, and go
up anil out half an inch at neck point.
The width of the back part on the waist line is
aj inches. Draw a line from the top of side-
seam to t8, and hollow sideseam of back part
i inch.
The underarm seam is fixed at | of breast
measure, and the round of sidebody is shaped in
harmony with the hack part ; i| inches suppres-
sion between back and sidebody, and 4 inch on
each side of the construction line at the under-
arm seam.
From io| to the front of scye is two-thirds of
the working scale 45, equal to 15 inches from the
centre of the back. Extend line across to breast
size 24, and add 2J for making up (a6J).
Mark up from з64 to В one-sixth of the dis-
proportion. A proport innate military figure is
5 inches smaller waist than chest, thus 48 b.,
43 w., which gives five-sixths of an inch from
□6| to B.
Draw a new breast line from $ to B.
Apply the front shoulder measure from | to E,
after deducting the quantity C to D.
E to Id is the same width as back shoulder
seam less | inch.
Hollow the scye 4 or £ inch in front of line
drawn from Measure out from E J of neck
measure, and mark down and 4 inch extra for
a figure of this type.
Draw the centre line to B.
Make up the size of the waist 24 and 1 inch.
Add J inch for button-hole side all the way
down the front.
Drop the forepart t inch below the original
waist line 18, 24 plus 1.
The waist seam is hollowed A inch.
THE SKIRT
Draw a straight line from the bottom oi side-
body to the bottom of the forepart. Hollow line
} inch immediately in front of the underarm
seam.
In order to obtain the spring at the back of
the skirt mark down one-sixth of the breast scale
and 1 inch, and draw line at right angles to К N.
I'he spring at the front of the skirt is obtained
by marking down from N to L one-sixth less
1 inch, and square lint's at right angles to 1. M.
All divisions on this diagram arc reckoned of the
half-breast.
GENERAL REMARKS.
'Hie waist length of all Tunics should be cut
to the nett measure, as no such thing as a
“ lashion waist" exists in garments designed to
be worn with a tight-fitting belt. In any case,
it is better to cut the length of waist A inch too
short than too long.
A stand of J inch is left on down the left fore-
part for the button-holes, but the button-stand
should always b< seamed on dow n the right fore-
part so as to ensure a snog fit down the front
edge.
The sleeve for a figure of this description
should be cut so as to have a sligntly backward
hang.
HINTS ON MAKING UP TUNICS.
A very great deal of the success of military
garments depends upon the employment of
skilled workmen, and there is no branch ol tailor-
ing in w hich a speciality shows off to so much
advantage as in the making of military gar-
ments. It will be well for the cutter to start
wiui the knowlege of the ideal fit required.
In a Tunic is should be made to fit closely at
the waist, easy at the chest, close at the neck,
with .unple provision made for the movement ol
the arms. Now- it will be found that in order to
obtain (his, care must be taken: it will not be
an easy matter to produce this ideal, as a close
fit over the hips necessitates a little stretching
out of the forepart, just over the hips, otherwise
there will be a tendency for it to crease at that
particular part. For the collar to fit snug at the
neck, the forepart will require stretching at the
neck point a trifle. The back being cut on the
crease will be improved if a little attention is
given to the spring in the centre ; the part
which requires more skill than any other is the
drawring in of the front edge ; the forepart is cut
with 1 moderate amount of round, and this is
drawn in when the button-stand is sewn on, and
it is customary in some of the best trades to put
this to the straight thread of the canvas, in just
the same way as with the lapel seam of a frock-
coat. The canvas is (hen adjusted to the form of
the forepart, by the insertion of puffs and the
taking out of Vs. Die finish of the linings must
also be arranged in keeping with a full dress
garment for an Officer, which means (hat in most
cases the lining would either be quilted or
creased .and stitched. The braiding of the sleeve
and collar is not such a difficult matter as was
formerly the case, but, it will be found an advan-
tage to have the sleeve seam sewn and pressed
open before any braiding is attempted. What-
ever the pattern of braiding to be followed, care
should be taken to have it as correct as possible,
when putting on braid or cord, special care must
be taken not to get it on short. For pressing
gold lace the iron used should be moderately
cool, a piece of cloth should be put over the lace
to be pressed, and a piece of lining put on the
top of the cloth. The iron may then be plated
in the position desired, and allowed to stand lor
some little while ; in this way the lace may be
successfully pressed, When collar-1.icings are
used, great care must be used to avoid soiling
them, a caution which is very necessary, seeing
that so many of them arc of a very light colour.
We have not yet referred to the finish at the
waist, but it should be borne in mind that the
waist is to be made to fit closely. It is customary
to put a waist-belt and clasp on the inside, the
colour harmonising with the lining. When
Lancers.
finished, the waist should measure from button to
button-hole, the same size as measure taken on
the customer, or at must f inch or A inch more.
We now proceed to deal with the different
varities of the Tunic.
LANCERS' TUNIC.
Lincers' Tunics are made of blue cloth, except
the 16th Lancers, whose Tunic is made of scarlet;
it is cut D В with front, collar and cuffs of the
regimental facings, cuffs are pointed, collar and
cuffs are ornamented with i inch lacc round the
top, the point of the cuff extending to 81 inches
from the bottom. I wo rows of buttons in the
front, seven in each row, and rows about 8 inches
apart at the top and 4 inches at the waist. 'Ilie
bottom buttons are fiat to go under the girdle,
two buttons are placed at the back of waist, a
three-puinted sword flap is placed on the back
of each skirt: these are edged with square gold
cord, and decorated with three buttons on each
flap. A welt or piping of the regimental facing
on the sleeves and back seams, down the front,
and round the skirts. The skirts are lined with
white in the 16th and with blue in the other
regiments, gold wire shoulder cord lined with
blue, with the exception of the 16th Lancers,
which is lined with scarlet ; a small button is
placed at the top.
LANCERS' TUNIC.
The diagram is drafted to the following
measures :—Depth of scye, 8}; natural waist,
16 ; length of skirt, 9; neck, 15$ ; back, 7 ;
sleeve, 32 ; breast. 36; waist, 31.
Square the line i N, 1 and 16.
Mark down one inch for nape of neck.
1 to 8} is the depth of scye.
1 to 16 is the length of natural waist, and a
quarter inch added for seam.
Mark in one inch at natural waist and draw
hack lines.
Find the line for width of back by marking
down from 1 half depth of scye and half inch.
Mark off width of back 7, phis | inch, and find
shoulder point by squaring' up one-sixth of scale
THE GORGE
and coming- out one inch.
Mark ofT back neck indicated on diagram by
$ N, or one-sixth of the total size of the neck.
The shoulder line is marked a quarter inch above
line, so as to allow for seam.
Is found by placing one arm of the square rest-
ing on 20$ and the \ ; this latter point being
fixed at one-third of the half neck from the neck
point. Tile distance from the neck point to the
bottom of the gorge is also one-third of the half
Draw construction line from tup of side-seam
of 16.
.Mark off width of back on the waist line (i$
inches), and form side strain by curving it about
two inches from construction line.
Then mark out from the back seam opposite,
8} half of the scale, in order to find width of side-
body ; continue to *i for front of scye. and to eo$
for full measure. This last quantity is hail the
breast and inches.
П1С neck point and over-shoulder quantities
are obtained in the ordinary way.
The amount of suppression between the back
and side body is i$ inches, and the same amount
is taken out at the underarm seam as shown on
the diagram. The amount allowed over the half
waist for making up is one inch ; it is unneces-
sary to allow more than that on account of a
girdle 2$ inches in width being worn round the
the waist.
THE PLASTRON,
Indicated by the white part of the diagram, is
arranged so that the top buttons are one inch
from the neck points and shoulder points on each
side, while the width .it the waist is 2$.
The skirt is found by measuring the side body,
forepart, and plastron, and then drawing- a
straight line. 'Hie run of the back skirt is
obtained by marking- down at front one-third of
scale and one inch, and a round of half inch
allowed for working up. The run of the front,
which requires less spring, is found by marking
down at back one-third of scale, less one inch.
The waist seam is hollowed one inch, and the
bottom munded to correspond. The skirt, when
made up, should measure nine inches for a man
5ft. Sin., and increase one-right of an inch for
every inch in the height of the figure. The slash
is placed on the centre of the skirt—that is,
showing an equal amount of skirt at top and
bottom, and the [Misition is one inch from the
back pleat. The size of the slash is 7 inches
long, and 2^ wide.
The Plastron is worn by the 5th, 9th, 12th,
16th, 17th, and 21st Lancers. Great skill and
care is required in order to make the foreparts
properly, so that the Tunic could button to the
right or left as required.
TUNIC FOR ROYAL FIELD AND
GARRISON XRT1LLERY.
'Du se are made of blue cloth with a cpllar of
scarlet cloth, the collar and sleeves are laced
and a grenade is placed at each end of the collar.
The skirt is cut square in front and left open be-
hind, with a blue cloth flap at the back of each
skirl.
These flaps are edged with round gold cord
and traced inside with gold Russia braid.
The skirts are lined with black, with scarlet
cloth edging down the front, and at the opening
behind. There are nine buttons placed down the
front, two at the back of the waist, and three on
tach sword flap. Plaited gold wire shoulder
cord, lined with blue, and a small button of regi-
mental pattern at the top.
TUNIC FOR ROYAL ENGINEERS.
These are made of scarlet cloth, with cuffs,
collars, and edging ill round of garter blue
velvet. The collar is edged round the top and
down I he front with round back gold cord ; at
each end of the collar n grenade is placed
inches in length, embroidered in silver ; culls Гог
all ranks are pointed and ornamented with an
Austrian knot, a round back, gold cord on each
sleeve, extending lo X inches from the bottom of
the cuff. There are nine buttons placed up the
front and two at the waist behind ; the skirt is
rounder! at the front and closed behind with a
pleat at each side. It is lined with white. The
front skirts arc edged with garter blue velvet.
Treble twisted round back gold shoulder cord
lined with scarlet, a small button of regimental
pattern at the top.
INFANTRY TUNICS.
1 .—Foot Guards.
These are made of scarlet doth, with collar
and cuffs of blue cloth ; the collar is embroidered
GBEXAWJER GUARDS.
Lieutenant. Other Office rt.
in front and round the top. At each end a bridge
of the regiment, embroidered in silver, round cuff
3| inches deep embroidered round the lop.
A flap of blue cloth is placed on each sleeve,
6 inches long at the seam, 6J at the point, aj at
wide at the narrowest part, anti al the point., 3J
bottom, 3} middle, at the top. A flap of
scarlet cloth at the top of each skirt, reaching to
within ’ inch of the bottom of the skirt, two but-
tons at" the waist behind about 3 inches apart ;
the front, collar and cuffs, and flaps are edged
with white cloth j inch wide.
The skirts are lined with white. Blue cloth
shoulder straps, with two rows of purl embroi-
GRENUHIR G PIRDS.
Other Oficen, Lieutenant.
dery extending to the base, a small button at the
top. Grenadier Guards have a grenade at each
end of the collar, nine buttons at equal distances,
and four bars of embroidery at equal distances
on each skirt and sleeve flap.
Tile Coldetreams have a star of the Order of
the Gutter at each end of the collar, ten buttons
COLDSTREAM GUARDS.
Lieutenant, Other Offierf.
tn front, placed two and two, and four bars of
embroidery, two and two on each skirt and
sleeve flap.
Scots Guards have a thistle at each end of
the collar, nine buttons in front, placet! three
and three, and three bars of embroidery al equal
distance, on each skirt and sleeve flap.
Field Officers and Captains have embroidery
round bottom of the collar, and round the skirt
and flap, and 11 second bar of embroidery round
the cuff.
The Tunic of the Irish Guards is ol the same
pattern ns the foregoing, with a shamrock in
silver embroidered at each end of collar, ten but-
tons in front, arranged from the top in groups of
SCOTS GUARDS.
Li utenanr
Oth'r OJicert.
four and lour and two, Four bars of embroidery
on skirl and sleeve flaps, grouped towards the
centre.
11 .—Infantry of the Linh.
'Iliese are made of scarlet cloth, with cloth
collar and cuffs of the colour of the regimental
facings. 1 he collar is ornamented with j inch
lace along the top, and gold Russia braid along
the bottom.
Badges according to regiment. Cuffs are
pointed with inch lace round the top, and a
tracing of gold Russia braid 1 inch above and
below' rhe lace, the upper braid being finished
with Austrian knot nt the top. There are eight
buttons up the front and two nt the waist behind.
The skirts are closed at the back with n pleat at
each side, which is lined with white pointed flaps
on the back skirts, as illustrated. The front
collar, skirt pleats, and skirt flaps are edged with
white, cloth J inch wide, twisted round gold
shoulder cords of universal pattern, lined with
scarlet, a small button ol regimental pattern at
the top. A red-web waist sash a] wide is
worn with this. The ends are round, and the
tassels are worn over ihe left hip. The sash
should be worn between the two bottom buttons.
In the Leicester Regiment a black line is intro-
duced into the shoulder cord. The lacc used in
this Tunic, as we have already slated, is g inch
wide. The pattern varies, however, as
follows : — For the English and Welsh regiments
it is of the rose pattern, and for the Irish regi-
ments it is of the shamrock, whilst the following
regiments have a black line introduced at the top
and bottom of the lace : Norfolk and Somerset
Light Infantry, East Yorkshire and Lancashire,
and the Connaught Rangers.
III .—Highland and Scotch Regiments.
the garment corresponding with the Tunic
for these regiments is the doublet. It is made
of scarlet cloth, with collar and cuffs of the colour
round ihe top and down the front with | inch
Infantry of the Link.
lace, with gold kussia braid at the bottom.
Gauntlet cuffs, 3! inches deep in front and 6
inches deep ar the back, which have 1 lace along
of Ihe regimental facing. The collar is laced at
the top and down the back. Three loops of gold
cord, with buttons al the top, arc placed on each
cuff, eight buttons are placed down the
front and two al the waist behind. Inverness
skirts, Я and and 7 inches deep, with skirt
HIGIIl \NIJ rnoiments
JUrf/ar. I.ieidcitatd
flaps on the ist, aj inches shorter than ist skirt,
1A inches from centre and bottom button. Each
skirt flap is trimmed with three loops of gold
braid, with buttons at the bottom. A pocket is
put in the skirt in front ; edging of while cloth,
Ofhccrx below Field Kitnk. held
1 inch wide, is put down the front, round the
collar, skirls and flaps. The skirts are lined with
white twisted, round gold shoulder cord of the
fi *
universal pattern, lined with scarlet, a small
button of regimental pattern on the top. The
facings are of blue cloth in the Royal High-
landers and the Queen’s Own Cameron High-
landers ; huff, in the Seaforth Highlanders and
Highland Light Infantry, and yellow cloth in
other regiments.
The gold lace is of the thistle pattern, the
Gordon Highlanders having a black line intro-
duced at top and bottom.
SCOTTISH RIFLES.
I'he doublet for the Scottish Rilles is made of
Rifle Grei n cloth, with collar and cuffs of similar
material. Braid is put along the top and down
the front of black lace J inch wide, of thistle
pattern ; gauntlet cuffs, 5 inches deep in the
front ami 8 inches deep at the back, each with
я inch lace round the top and al either side of
the back seam.
Three loops of black Russia braid on each
cuff, with a button at the top of each loop. Eight
buttons down the front with two hooks and eyes
at waist, and two buttons at the waist behind ;
skirts and hj inches deep, with skirt flaps
on the first two, and 6| inches deep. The
first skirt I from the centre of bottom button,
three loops of black Russia braid, with the regu-
lation button at the bottom of each loop.
A pocket is placed on the inside of the left
breast and in each front skirt; two hooks for
the support of the sword belt ; black lining ;
shoulder straps of the same material as the gar-
ment, each with g inch lace ; at the base a small
regimental button.
Badge of rank of the same material as the
button.
THE HIGHLAND DOUBLET SYSTEM.
\s will be seen this is cut on the same lines as
Lite Tunic, as far as the body part is concerned ;
the variation ol skirts being its special features.
The system is as follows:—I) to A 1 inch.
A to В i more than half depth of scye ; con-
tinue to U depth of scye and to natural waist I).
О to E j neck plus }, and raise above line О •}
inch ; dra w back neck.
From top of side seam raise shoulder of back
1 in< h more than breast, so ns to localise seam
on top of shoulder ; go out 1 inch to get run of
sleeve head scant.
C to у is breast on to 12 or If breast.
Continue lo 18 and 20J, inches more than
half breast for making up, etc., front shoulder
less width of back neck.
Now add 1 inch to this quantity, and sweep
again, using point 20A as a pivot ; where the
segments cross each citner locates the neck point
F.
I- lo (If neck, measure down to H J neck
phis I inch to find of gorge.
Now sweep from point 12 to find the shoulder
s ope by the over shoulder measure 17 less
uuantity from C to I. Make width of shoulder
INFANTRV.— H1011L AN I> Rt-:i I l.M ENTS.
stam of forepart same as the back or a trifle
less.
From line 1) mark in A inch to find centre of
back, make width .it waist sj ; suppress a be-
tween back and side body, and iA inches between
side body and forepart ; make up to waist
measure plus i inch.
Draw centre breast line from G through iit$
and i inch below, add on 3 for making up the
edge. Draw line from J to bottom of side body
and hollow -j inch above and | inch below.
To get the skirts, draught a skirt in the usual
manner, but without any spring at front, and for
spring behind come down from J to *i inch
more than J scale ; make depth according to
rank. For Officers the skirts are 64 inches
deep; in this instance the front skirt is 7},
second skirt 7A, and back skirts 6? inches deep
Back skirts for Officers 6 inches. The front
skirt is to be t inch wider than second skirt.
The skirts or tashes vary in length ; and as
most of our readers will gather from the dia-
grams, they are double, that is—there is a
smaller one on the top of the other. The Jett
back skirt, as will be noticed, is smaller than the
other, which is done with the object of letting
them appear both the same size when the left one
is overlapping the right. The lashes do not
meet in front, being kept from ij to □ inches
from the edge of the forepart.
1VRule Reginent».
The Tunic, with the exception of the Scottish
Rifle Corp», are made of the new shade of Rifle
green cloth, which is edged all round, with the
exception of the collar, with black square cord ;
scarlet cloth collar and cuffs. The collar is edged
with J inch black braid, with tracing of plain
braid below. The cuffs are pointed and trimmed
with \uslrian knot, with black braid round tup,
extending to 8J inches from the botlom of the
cuff, for all ranks.
The skirts rounded off at the front and closed
behind, and lined with black on each side of the
breast, five loops of black square cord with
netted cap and drops, fastened with black oli-
vette ; on each back seam a line of the same cord
form a crows-foot at the top, passing under the
netted cap at rhe waist, below which it is made
into an \ustrian knot, reaching to the bottom
of the skirt. Shoulder cords ol black chain
gimp, with a small button of regimental pattern
at the lop.
The lace used for the 1 unic on the West. India
Regiments is of the basis and stand pattern,
TUNIC FOR ARMY SERVICE CORPS
This is made of blue doth, with collar and
cuffs of white cloth; the collar is ornamented
with $ inch lace round the top, and gold cord
similar to that on the shoulder straps round the
Ixiltocn. Eight buttons in front, and two nt the
waist behind ; the skirts arc rounded off in the
front, closed behind with a pie.it al inch side and
lining of black silk. \\ Lite cloth edging | inch
wide ill round (except the collar) up the skirt
pleats, twisted round gold shoulder cord ol the
universal pattern, lined with blue, and small
button of regimental pattern at the top. The
cuff is trimmed with an \ustrian knot of round
hack, gold cord, traced .ill round with gold Russia
braid
\RM\ MEDICAL STAFF.
The Punic worn bj the Medical Staff is made
of blue cloth the skirts are closed behind and
rounded olt in Iront. The collar and cuffs arc
of biack velvet , the collar is Lived round the top
and down the Inuit with inch gold lace mid
gold Russia braid round the Itottoni, I he cuffs
are pointed with two bars, j meh lace round top
shewing } inch black velvet between the bars,
figured braiding of alternate large and small eje.
alone below the lace ; the lop of the braided
figure is to inches from the top of the < nff.
Tight buttons are pin down the front . nd two it
the waist behind ; there is a scarlet cloth edging
all round (except the collar) and up the sk rt
pleats ; the skirt is lined with black silk ; plaited
round gold shoulder cord of plaited gold wire
basket cord rJa inch in diameter, small gold gimp
down centre, small button at top; ihe strap on
the shoulder is a) inches wide, terminating in a
q mc.lt wing.
ROYAL ARMY MEDICAL CORPS.
The Tunic for the Rota) Aimv .Medical Corps
is blue cloth, with collar ami nils of the colour
of the facing ; the collar is ornamented with
J inch lace round ihe top, and gold Russia braid
along the bottom The cuffs are gauntlet
shaped, inches deep in fnml and u inches at
the back ; tv isted round gold shoulder cord <il
the universal pattern, lined with blue. Small
button at Ihc top, the piping round the edge, etc.,
being of a dull cherry colour.
\HMY ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT.
Tunic for principal Ordnance Officer is
made of blue cloth ; the skirts rounded oft in
front and closed behind. Scarlet cloth collar
and cuffs ; the collar laced round the lop and
down the front with 3 inch lace, and gold Rus-
sia braid along the bottom ; eight button-, down
the front and two at Ihc waist behind ; tin- front
and skirt pleats are edged with scarlet cloth
1 inch wide, and the. skirts are lined with black
silk ; gold shoulder cords of plaited gold ware
basket cord, Д inch in dirinn ter ; sm: I) gold
gimp down centre ot strap of the shoulder
cord 2} inc hes wide, terminating in a .| inch
w ing.
ARMY PAY DEPARTMENT.
The funic worn by a Colonel in die Army
Pay Department is made of blue cloth ; the
Iron! ol the skirl is rounded oft and closed be-
hind ; yellow cloth collar and cuffs ; the collar is
Laced round and down the Iront with a row of
gold Russia braid along the bottom. The cuffs
are of the same pattern as those used for the
Yrniy Ordnance Department, an illustration ol
which is given elsewhere. There arc eight but-
tons down die front and two at the waist behind.
The front collar and skirt pleats are edged with
yellow cloth I wide, and skirts lined with black
silk ; twisted round shoulder cord of universal
pattern, lined with blue, md a small button of
Departmental pattern at the top.
\RM\ Y ETERI NARY DEPARTMENT.
Punic worn by those engaged in the Veterin-
ary Department is made of blue cloth ; skirts
rounded oft in Iront md open behind ; maroon
velvet collar and cuffs, 4 meh lace along the top
and down the front, and collar and culls with a
row of round Russia cord along the bottom.
Eight buttons down the iront, and Iwo al the
waist behind: blue flap on each skirt behind,
edged with round back gold cord : three buttons
on each tlap ; sword flap is traced with gold
Russia , the Iront collar and skirts edged with
maroon velvet: the skirts are lined with black
silk ; twisted round gold shoulder cord of tlie
universal pattern, lined with blue. Small button
of Departmental pattern at the top.
PROVOST MARSHAL AND MILITARY
MOUNTED POLICE.
The Tuna worn bv a Provost Marshal is of
blue cloth, with scarlet edging down the front
and opening at the back of the skirl, and cull ir
and cuffs ; plain flaps on the skirts, edged with
scarlet ; three buttons on each flap and two at
the waist behind ; the collar is edged with inch
Lu round the lop and gold cord J inch in dia-
meter И the bottom ; twisted round gold
shoulder cord of universal pattern ; the culls have
an Yustrian knot of round back gold cord.
GOVERNORS Ol MILITARY PRISONS.
The Tunic, is made of blue cloth, with scarlet
cloth collar and cuffs, with badges of rank ac-
cording lo the last rank held in the Yrmy.
INSPECTOR Ol- YRMY SCHOOLS.
Same Punic as for Olh er of Infantry ol the
Line, with the exception that it is made of blue
cloth with scarlet chub collar, cuffs and edging ;
twisted gold round shoulder cord ol the universal
pattern, hued with blue; a small button .it the
top.
Ol-l ICER OF THE ROY Yl. MH IT.YRY
COLLEGE, SANDU URSI.
Tunic made ol scarier cloth, s;une pattern as
for Officer of Infantry of tin Line, with blue
cloth collar and cuffs. 'The Officer of ihc Royal
Hospital of Chelsea and Kilmainham has a
Tunic of bine cloth with .1 skirt 12 inches deep
for an Officer 5ft. yin. in height, with a propor-
tionate variation lor any di fl ere ne in height.
Plain scarlet doth collar and culls, with the
badges of rank on I he collar ; blue flaps on each
sleeve, 6 inches long and si inches wide, with
three small buttons, and a small flap <) inches
long with two buttons on each skirt behind :
eight buttons down the front and two al the
back of waist : loops of gold <-<ird with small
buttons on each shoulder. Ilu fronl flaps ami
back skirts are edged with scarlet । loth J inch
wide, and the skirt lined with black.
ROY YL HORSE ARTILLERY.
Officers of the Royal Horse Arliilicry wear a
Jacket in place of the Tunic. I his is made from
blue cloth, edged all round with gold cord, form-
ing a figure b, 2| inches deep at the bottom of
each back scam. Collar is of scarlet cloth, cut
square in front, with the corners slightly
rounded ; it is finished with two hooks and eyes,
with blue silk tabs with hunk and eve. ’Ihe
collar is edged all round with gold cord, with
lace |;J inch wide round ihe top and down the
I гоп I of the collar, with a grenade embroidered
in frosted silver г| inches Jong al each end ; at
each side, in front, loops of gold cord 15 In t.4 in
number, according to height of wearer, three-
tenths of an inch in diameter, 1 inch apart from
centre to centre fastening with ball hutton,
finished at the top with a crow's four arid curl ;
gold cord along the back seam, forming a crow’s
foot at the lopol each side seam, anil :in Austrian
knot and curl at the bottom of each side scam.
Shoulder cord ol plaited gold wire, lined with
blue, and a small button of regimental pattern al
the top. The cuffs arc trimmed with an Austrian
knot of gold cord 7л inches deep.
DRESS JACKET EOR ROYAL HORSE
\RT11 I I RY.
The garment. which lakes the place of the
Tunic for Olliccrs of the Royal Horst \rtillery,
is Ihe Dress Jacket, which is cut as illustrated
on the opposite diagram. Thr system for pro-
ducing it is similar in genend feature- as descrip-
tion for the Tunic. Ihe back, however, is cut
rather to ihe narrow side. Skirting ln>m th •
nape of the neck, we measure down J depth of
scye phis J inch, continue on to 8] depth of scye.
ROVAI. HoRSk Al.TIIAHKV.
Fiiu.ij-Marsiiai..
io natural waist, iyj full length, and come in
trom ib, i inch, and draw line for centre of
back, come up t inch from the nape of neck anil
mark across f neck plus i meh, square lines at
right angles to the various points, mark off width
of back, plus I scam ; and from Illis point square
up, 1 idlest plus ] to i inch, curve out for back
scye anti shape shoulder from [mints so obtained,
make the width of hack if to if inches at wai.-l,
draw line from top of side scain to point 16, and
round the side seam 2 inches, as illustrated,
measure across from 9, t oi breast, to 12, If breast,
to 2of chest measure plus jf inches. Sweep for
neck point from 12, by the front shoulder
measure less width ol back neck, and by point
aof bv adding 1 inch more than the previous
quantity, where these two segments intersect
each other locates Ihe nedc point.
Mark out from this point ,* neck, mark down
J neck plus J inch, find slope of the shoulder by-
using point 12. as a pivot, and sweeping by the
over-shoulder measure less distance from 8}, to
shoulder seam of back, make width ol front
shoulder f inch less than back, shape scye as
shown, and complete tin- upper portion of the
gunmenl. From the waist takeout tl inches be-
tween the side-body and forepart, and measure
tip waist to measure plus about 1 inch, and curve
over the hips sharply ; a good plan is to measure
in from the side seam of forepart, if inches and
down if inches, the point in front should be
about 4 inches below waist line-
FROCK-COAT FOR FIELD-MARSHAL,
GEM R\L, LI El’TEN ANT-GEN ER \l .
M \JOR-Ub XI К \l . BRIGADIER-
GENERAL.
Tins recent changes which have been made tn
military uniforms have abolished many of the
undress garments, hut those which have been
worn by General Officers, Colonels on the Staff,
Headquarter General General on Personal Staff,
remain.
Ihe Frock-coat worn by Field-Marshal, etc.,
is made of blue cloth, D. IL. with blue velvet
collar and cuffs, cuffs being round 3 inches
de<p ; plain flaps are put in the back. pleats, t|
inches wide ami about 11 inches long, for an
Officers 5ft. gin. in height. There are two rows
of buttons down the front, ihe rows being
8 inches apart at the lop, 4 inches at the waist ;
Iwo buttons M the waist behind and one at the
bottom of each skirt Пар. ’1 hr skirts are lined
with black silk; shoulder cordii of the same
pattern as used on the Tunic.
I RO( K-COA’l FOR COLONEL OX Till
ST A F F.
This is made ol blue cloth, D.B., with collar
anti cuffs of the same material as the coat ; cuffs
are j inches d< cp, mid flaps with three small
buttons on each sleeve ; plain flaps al the back,
pleats 1A inches wide and 11 inches long, for an
Officer 5ft. gin. Two rows of buttons down the
front, eight in each row, 8 inches apart at the
top, j incites at thi waist ; two buttons at the
waist behind and one on thr forepart of each
skirl flap , the skirts lined with black ; shoulder
cords and buttons as lor the Tunic.
IIEADQl \RTER, GENERAL INI)
'person \L STAFF.
!•'rock-coal for Headquarter, General and Per-
sonal Staff is made of the >ame pattern as for
Colonel of the Staff, with the exception ol blue
cloth shoulder straps ; Officers in the possession
of a Regimental Frock-coat will continue to
wear ir.
FROCK-COA1 FOR \IDE-DE-CAMP TO
THE KING,
These .ire made of blue doth, S R., with eight
loop1- of blue silk, twisted on each .side of the
breast; a small loop 5 inches long, w ith a small
button nt each side of the collar ; plain cuffs with
two holes md buttons Lo each (lap on each Tirt
behind, with a button nt the bottom : two but-
tons at. the waist bihind skirt is lined with
lil irk ; inside ticket in each black skirt ; atgii-
lette and -houlder nirtl, same as worn with Tunic.
The Frock-coat is not required for the ordinary
routine duty of rhe Aide-de-Camp.
FROCK-COAT FOR ORDIN\RY OFI 1CF.RS
(UNIVERSAL SERVICE).
Frock-coats for Ordinary Officers is made of
blue, cloth, 0. IL, with stand collar ; shoulder
strap 21 inches wide; plain sleeve with two
small button.-- and buHnn-holcs at the bottom ; six
burtons down each front, 8 incites 1p.1t 1 at the
top, 4 inches nt the bottom , flaps or side pieces
in the skirts behind, to inclu*s deep; one button
on each pleat al Ihe bottom and one at the top.
Universal Service
I‘rock Coat.
Household Cavalry.
The .skirts to reach to the knees and to be lined ;
shoulder straps of doth of the same material as
Ihe garment, attached by an underpiece through
a loop on the lower part ol tin shoulder, fastened
at the top La a small bill Inn, which passes
through both underpieces and shoulder strap.
The top of the Strap is triangular, size king
about 11 incites tong, the bottom 1 inch horn the
centre.
Tlie Frock-coat worn in the I louschold
CataLrv is nuidf of blue chilli, S. B., with stand
collar; the collar is ornamented with figured
h'ROCK-COAT I OR HOUSlillOl.D
C WAL RY.
Brock Coat for l-’оот Guare®.
braid ; figured braid on each siecve, extending
to 12 inches from the bottom of the coat ; six
loops of -J black braid down the front, on each
30
THE CUTTER’S PRACTICAL guide
side, with two oliveLts on each loop ; the lop
loops reach to tlx.- shoulder seams, six at the
waist, inches long ; , inch braid on the outer
seam of sleeve and back scam, with eyes and
fringe at the waist, and tassels at die bark skirts.
The front fastens with hooks and ryes; black
silk lining in the skirl ; shoulder straps of the
same material as the garment, each with A inch
black mohair braid, except at the base ; black
netted button at the top,
FROCK-COAT FOR FOOT Cl’ARDS.
This is made of blue cloth, S. 15., with stand
collar, ornamented with figured cording and
figured braiding on the cuffs ; five loops of black
braid down each front, with two olivetts on each
loop, the top loops reaching to the shoulder seam,
the bottom one । inches long. The bottom row
is some little distance above the waist ; three
rows of braid on each back skirt, finished with a
tassel at the bottom, with an olivett al the top.
П1С front is finished with hooks and eyes, the
skirt lined with black silk, and the shoulder
straps of die same material as the garment,
edged with 1 inch black mohair braid, except
at the base ; black net button at the top.
FROCK-COAT FOR \RMV CHAPLAIN’S.
Frock-coat worn by Army Chaplains is an
ordinary Clerical Frock.
MILITARY D.B. FROCK-COAT SYSTEM.
Draw line t G, make i toO i inch, О to E |
depth of scye plus J inch О to I depth of scye,
as taken on customer. О to G natural waist
length ; draw lines at right angles Hi 1, E, F, G ;
come in from G to H i inch to find centre of
back ; this must be straight, as the back is taken
out on the crease.
i to A Is | of the neck measure plus f inch.
'Ilie width of back on line D is made to measure
plus } inch ; from this point square up to B, J of
the breast plus t inch from В to C, J to i inch ;
by these points draw back scye from I) to C,
shoulder seam from A to C, and bat к neck from
() to A. Now draw a straight line Irom D io G
and hollow side seam of back about . int h al I ;
make width of back from II to Q alxiut 2 inches.
From Q to R is lA inches ; point D is made a
pivot and sweep from Q to V lo find the length
ol side bodv. Point 1 is made a pivot, and a
sweep is made from | inch above point D to find
top of side body.
Both of these sweeps are necessary, because,
when sewing the side Ixxly to the back, a scam
taken from the back makes it longer, and one
taken from the side Ixxly makes it shorter.
Measure across from | to L, the A chest
measure phis 21 inches. From 1. to К is the
across chest measure, as taken on customer, or
it may be found by measuring across irom J to
K, j of the breast. Now sweep by the front
shoulder measure less the width of back neck
from О to A, making point К a pivot, and sweep
in the direction of N. Now add i inch to that
quantity, and use point L as a pivot, and sweep
in the direction of N, where the two segments
intersect each oilier, kx-ates tlx- neck point;
place the square on L N, and mark out to О J of
neck measure, down from О to P, oi neck plus
J inch ; to find the slope of shoulder at M deduct
the distance from A lo О S., on the back from
the over-shoulder measure, and by the remainder
sweep in the direction of M, using point К as a
pivot. From A to J is A breast ; square down
from this point mid take out tA inches of waist
suppression between S and 'I Measure up waist
to A waist measure plus i inch ; square across
from V to X, and hollow waist A inch. AcItJ on
| inch beyond the breast line for the lapel seam,
and shape label as illustrated ; make it 4 inches
wide at top ami 2A wide at bottom.
TUI SKIRT.
Draw Jine across from V to X and hollow the
waist seam at W J inch.
Mark down to Z, A of the seat, and by this
point square from \’ to A A ; mark down
from A to T one-twelfth of the seat, plus J inch,
and square front to В R. Add on tj inch
of round at the back, and complete skirt as
shown.
The amount of fulness tri be provided for at
the waist must be decided in each case ; it will
not be necessary, as a rule, to allow for more
than 1 inch.
THE BACK SKIRT.
As shown, II to Q, agrees with (I Q of the
flack. С C, 1) D, is inch more than II Q ; { inch
is added on for scams above 11 Q, and 1 inch is
allowed for the making up of the pleat beyond
and D D.
GENERAL’S FROCK-COAT SYSTEM.
The Frock-coat, such as is worn by those.
Officers who are mounted, requires a little adap-
tation from what wc have already described, and
we herewith give a small diagram, showing the
necessary variations. As far as bodyp.irt is con-
cerned this particular eoat is identical with
what we have already described, the lapel, how-
ever, is cut wider. The regulation for the dis-
tance between the buttons Ix-ing wider than for
the ordinary Officer. These are Я inches apart
nt the top, and 4 inches apart at the waist part ;
the Ixittom is also increased to 8, in order to pro-
vide for this ; the lapel is cut 5 inches wide at
the top and t inches wide ar the bottom. Coming
to the skirt, it will be noticed that more spring
is provided round the bottom edge in order that
it may be adapted to the requirements of the
figure when nn horseback. This is arranged as
follows:—Krom tho bottom ol forepart to X
come down 3} inches, and with the corner of the
squ ire resting on the ‘-ide body, mark down 9
incites ; from this point come out < inch, and
draw line straight through to bottom ol s:de
body, and beyond this add $ inch of round. To
I). В Frock Солт.
find the run of front, mark down to the very
bottom point of side body to X 3 inches, and
square Ihe front of the skirt at right angles to
\ ami bottom of forepart ; hollow the waist
t inch, and complete as per diagram.
SIXGL1 BREASTED FROCK-COAT.
The various points of this garment are found
in precisely ihe same way as described for the
1).I!. Frock-coat. We ire giving a small dia-
gram of this, which is practically the same as
the larger diigiam for the D.B. I Tock-coat, and
this shows that the front is finished at the breast
line, xs this i.s made to fasten up with hooks and
S.B. Frock Coat.
eyes down the front may be more securely
fastened. The particulars of braid, etc., will
be found in our illustrations and description.
MESS JACKETS.
The general style of Mess Jackets worn by
neririv dl Officers is of the roll collar pattern,
without buttons or braid on any part of the
Jacket. One inch slit to be left at the culT.
‘Ilie back is finished with a point at centre of
bottom, sharply eurted over the hips. Coll.tr
badges, of the sam» pattern as worn on the
Funic, arc placed 5 from the shoulder seam.
Badges of rimk, of ihe regimental size of embroi-
dery, are placed on the shoulder straps.
Miniature Decorations. Medals, etc., ar--
worn with this Jacket, The following is a
description of the colour of cloth used for the
Jacket, collar, shoulder straps, cuffs, and waist-
coot, by the. different regiments:
MESS JACKET FOR THE HOUSEHOLD
CAVALRY.
Mess Jacket worn by Household Cavalry is
finished with stand collar nt the neck, lace round
Back View.
MESS JACKETS.
GENERAL OFFICERS.
Life Gvaros—Eiei.o Officer.
the edges, and finished as follows : For the ist
and 2nd Life Guards it is made of scarlet doth
with blue velvet collar and cuffs and edging,
ROYAL HORSE GUARDS.
Field Ojfietr. Officer Mow Field Hank.
and is lined with drab silk. For ihe Royal
Horse Guards it is made of blue cloih. with
collar, cuffs, and edging of scarlet cloth. Gold
lace, i Inch wide, all round the Jacket within
the edging (2nd Lift Guards, the edging ol vel-
vet within the lace], and round the lop of the
< iifi , which are pointed and 5 inches deep
LIRE GUARDS.
flffieeti Muir Field Rank. Field llffiecr.
Phe tst and 2nd I ife Guards have .1 row ol gilt
sluds down the front ; gold shouldi г cord and
plaited chain gimp if inches wide. Field
Officers are further distinguished by gold gimp
round the collar and cuffs in tnc I ife Huards ;
-A inch lace in the Royal Horse Guards at the
Itoiitom of the collar and lop of the cull’.
MESS JACKE1 FOR FOOT GUARDS
This is made of scarlet cloth, with collar and
cuffs of garter blue ; roll collar, with regimental
badge on it, 5 inches from shoulder seam.
Cull's pointed. Field Officers have on each
sleeve three rows ol small gimp cord, forming an
eye it llu top ; Captain, two rows ; Lieutenants,
one row.
MI SS J ACRE I.
FIELD MARSHAL.
The Mess Jacket lor Field Marshal, General
Officers, Colonel on the Staff, Officers under the
rank of Colonel, not nn Cadre ol a Unit, is made
ol scarlet cloth, with blue collar; shoulder straps
arc of blue cloth, edged with A inch hue Ilie
cuffs are ol blue cloth and w li.slcoat is of blue to
eorre pond with ihe collar and cuffs.
ist Dragoon Gi auos. Jacket ol scarlet
cloth, with blue collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder
slnip.s and scarlei vest.
2 no Dragoon Gl'ahds.—Jacket of scarlet
cloth, with bull collar and < ulis, scarlet shoulder
situps and \ esl.
3«i> Dragoon Gi ards. Jacket of scarlet
cloth, with yellow collar and culls, scarlet
shoulder strips and vest.
.|Tii Dragoon' 'GcARiis.«=lacket of-"'scarlet
cloth with blue collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder
sirups and vest,
5111 Dragoon (hards.—Jacket ol srirlii
cloth, with dark green collar and culls, scarlet
shoulder .-tr ips and green velvet vest.
6th Dkw.oon Gt akiis.--Jacket of blue, with
white collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and
while vest.
7111 Dragoon Gvaros.—Jacket of scarlet,
with black collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder
straps and vest.
ist Drvgoo.vs, jacket of scarlet, with blue
collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and vest.
2X1 > Dragoons. Jacket of scarlet, with blue
collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and vest.
31111 Hi ssars.—Jacket of blue, with scarlet
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps md scarlet
v est.
4T11 Hi’ssars.—Jacket of blue, with yellow
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet
vest.
5T11 Lancers.—-Jacket ol blue, with scarlet
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet
vest.
inn Dragoons.—Jacket of scarlet, with vellnw
collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and vest..
7'rn Hussars.— Jacket of blue, with scarlet
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and vest-
8th Hussars.—Jacket of blue, with scarlet
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and vest.
дти Lancers.—Jacket of blue, with scarlet
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps anti scarlet
vest.
юти Hussars.—Jacket of blue, with scarlet
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet
vest.
imi Hussars.—Jacket of blue, with crimson
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and vest.
г-’-глг ^4.F*WM4C- /t.-n'rv* »•)/)>
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet
vest.
ijtji Hussars.—Jacket of blue, with buff
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and white
vest.
14TH Hussars. —Jacket of blue, with yellow
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet
vest.
15TH Hussars.—Jacket of blue, with scarlet
colhtr and cuffs, blue shoulder -.traps and scarlet
vest.
16111 Lancers.—Jacket of scarlet, with blue
collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and blue
vest.
17TK Lancers. Jacket of blue, with white
collar anti cuffs, blue shoulder straps and white
vest-
18th Hussars.— -Jacket and vest all of blue.
igrn Hussars.—-Jacket of blue, with white
collar anti cuffs, blue shoulder straps and white
Vest.
_>oih Hussars.—Jacket of blue, with crimson
collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and crimson
vest.
jtsT Lancers.—Jacket of blue, with !• ench
grey collar and cuffs, vest, and blue shoulder
straps.
Royal. Artillery. -Jacket 01 blue, collar and
shoulder strtips, scarlet cuffs and vest.
Royal Engineers.—Jacket of scarlet, with
blue collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps ;md
blue vest.
Scottish Rifles. Jacket and vest of rifle
green.
King's Royal Rih.es. Jacket of rille green,
with scarlet collar and cuffs, shoulder straps and
vest of rifle green.
Koval Irish Rules.—Jacket of rille green,
dark green collar and cuffs, rifle green shoulder
straps and vest.
Rifle Brigade.—Jacket of rifle green, with
black collar, black velvet cuffs, black cord skirt
edging . inch wide, and J inch deep shoulder
straps and rifle green vest.
\rmv Service Cores.—Jacket of blue, with
white collar, cuffs, and vest, blue shoulder straps.
\r.mv Medical Staff. Jacket of blue, black
collar, black velvet cuffs, blue shoulder straps
and scarlet vest.
Principal Ordnance Officer.—Jacket ol
blue, scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shouluer
straps, edged with 1 inch lace, and blue vest.
Other Officers, \kmv ohmmme Depart,
ment. Jacket of blue, scarlet collar and cuffs,
blue shoulder straps and vest.
Army Pay Di partmf.nt. Jacket of blue, with
yellow collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and
waistcoat..
Army Veterinary Depart men i .—Jacket ot
blue, maroon cloth collar, maroon velvet cuffs,
hiue sltoulder straps and vest.
The following Regiments till belong to the
Infantry ot tile Line:—
Royal Scots. Jacket of scarlet, with roll
t'O/Zar, Ге^ГГГЛГ£ГЛ47'
waistcoat of blue cloth»
Royal West Surrey. -Jacket of scarlet, with
Hill collar, regimental shoulder straps and culls
and vest.
East Kent Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet,
with roll and step collar of butt and red silk ;
buff shoulder straps and cuffs, a-A- inches deep,
with three (minted bull flaps, 5A inches deep and
wide at the point; on the flap three small
buttons of regimental pattern and three loops of
twisted while cord ; regimental pattern vest.
Royal Lancaster, jacket of scarlet, roll col-
lar, regimental shoulder straps md cuffs, vest of
blue cloth with roll collar, four small regimental
buttons of special pattern.
Northumberland Fusiliers. -Jacket of scar-
let with roll collar of green cloth, scarier
shoulder straps and cuffs, ami vest ol regimental
pattern.
Royal Warwickshire.—Jacket of scarlet, mil
collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest
with roll collar and four buttons.
Royai 1-1 siliers. Jacket of scarlet, with roll
collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest
w ith roll collar and four buttons.
Liverpool Regiments.—Jacket of scarlet,
with mil collar, regimental shoulder straps and
cuffs, vest, with roll collar and three button.-
Aoki ol' Regiments. Jacket of scarlet, wilh
roll coll ir of red cloth, white shoulder traps and
cuffs, scarlet vest, cut with roll collar, four
regimental button- in front.
1 incolnshirf Regiments^—Jacket of scarlet,
with toll collar of scarlet cloth, regimental
shoulder straps, cuffs and vest.
Devonshire Regiments. Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar of green doth, scarlet shoulder
strips md cuffs, regulation vest.
Sui folk Regiments. Jacket of scarlet, with
roll collar of vellow cloth, shoulder straps of same
material as jacket, regimental cuffs, and vest of
regulation pattern.
Somerset Light Infantry. Jacket of scar-
let, with roll collar of blue cloth, bine cloth
shoulder straps and cuffs, blue cloth vest ol new
regulation pattern.
West Yorkshire Regimexts.—Jacket ol scar-
let, with roll collar of buff, shoulder straps and
coils, white Marcela vest, with roll collar and
three buttons.
East Yorkshire Regiments. Jacket ol scar-
let, with mil collar of white cloth, scarlet
shoulder straps and regimental cuffs, white
washing vest ol regimenlid pattern.
Bi di orushiri Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar, scarlet shoulder si raps, while
cuffs, with white slashes, and three huttons on
slashes, and loops of twisted white curd, vest of
scarlet cloth, and lour buttons of regimental
pattern.
Leicestershire Regiments. Jacket ol scar-
let, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps
and cuffs, white cloth vest of regimental pattern.
Koval Irish Regiments. Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and
cuffs, mil collar vest, with four buttons.
Yorkshire Regiments, Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar of green cloth, green doth
shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of green cloth,
made without collar.
Lancashire FV4HJKNC.- Jacket ot scarlet,
with rod collar of scarlet silk, scarlet shuukici
straps, white ruffs, regimental pattern vest.
Koval Scots Flsh.iers. Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar of blue, regimental shoulder
straps and cuffs, vest of tartan of regimental
pattern.
Cheshire Regiment. Jacket of scarlet, with
roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and culls,
vest and lapels .
Rovai Welsh Fusiliers.—Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps anti
cuffs, vest of black cloth, with four buttons.
Soin ii Wales Borderers.—Jacket of scarlet,
roll collar of while cloth, scarlet shoulder straps,
w hite cuffs, regimental waistcoat
King's Own Scottish Borderlks.—Jacket of
scarlet, roll collar, rcgmicntal shoulder straps
and gauntlet cuffs, vest of Leslie tartan, roll
collar and three buttons.
Inniskh.I.ing !•' i sii.iers. Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar of blue, regimental shoulder
straps and cuffs, vest of regimental pattern.
Gloucester Regiment. Jacket of scarlet,
stem roll collar of red, with white silk facing,
scarlet shoulder straps, white cuffs, vest of
scarlet, opening i inch below stud of shirt, fasten-
ing with three buttons.
Worcester Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar ol green cloth, shoulder straps
and cuffs, same as jacket, regimental vest.
East Lancashire Regiment.—Jacket of scar-
let, with roll collar of white doth, regimental
shoulder straps, white cuffs, scarlet cloth vest.
East Scrkiy Regiment. Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps ami
cuffs, vest of regimental pattern from scarlet
cloth.
Dike of Cornwall's Light Infantry.
Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of crimson silk,
scarlet cloth shoulder straps, and white cloth
regimental pattern vest.
Wesi Riding Regiment. Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar of crimson, scarlet shoulder
straps, with while cuffs J/ inches deep, with three
pointed scarier flaps, $4 inches deep and 2}
inches wide at the point on the flaps, and three
buttons ol regimental pattern.
Border Regiments.—Jacket of scarlet, wilh
roll collar, regimental shoulder straps, cuffs, and
vest.
Rovai Si ssex Regiment—Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar of blue doth, blue shoulder
straps, cuffs of the gauntlet shape, with red silk
slashes. <1 inches deep at the points, four buttons
on slashes, vest ol regimental pattern.
IIamtsihri Regiment. Jacket of scarlet,
vitb roll collar, regiment.d collar, cuffs, ind vest.
South Staffordshire Regiment.—Jacket of
scarlet, wilh roll collar, regimental shoulder
straps and cuffs, vest ol plain white cloth.
Dorsi TsiiiRi Regiment. Jacket ot scarlet,
with roll collar of white doth, regimental
shoulder straps and cuffs, white washing vest of
regimental patlern.
South I ancasihke Regiment. Jacket of
scarlet, with roll collar of white silk, scarlet
shoulder straps, white cuffs with si ishes and
three buttons, the vest of regimental pattern.
Wei sh Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with
roll collar of crimson silk, regimental shoulder
straps and cuffs, scarier cloth vest ol regimental
pattern.
Oxfordshire Light Infantry- Jacket of
scarlet, roll collar ot scarlet silk, scarlet shoulder
straps, while cuffs of 4 gauntlet pattern, four
buttons in front, while washing vest of regi-
mental pattern.
Ess, \ Reci.mi nt. Jacket of scarlet, with roll
collar of black silk, regimental shoulder straps,
cuffs and \ est.
Deriiyshire Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar of green cloth, scarlet shoulder
straps and cuffs, regimental vest.
Loyal North Lancashirh Regiment.
Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of white doth,
scarlet shoulder straps, white cuffs, scarlet cloth
vest, with white silk lining
Northamitonshire Regiment. Jacket of
scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder
straps, cuffs and Vest.
Rovai. Berkshire Regiment. Jacket of scar-
let, wilh roll collar, regimental shoulder straps
and ruffs, hhie doth vest.
Royal West Kent Regiment.—Jacket of
scarlet, with roll collar of blue velvet, regimental
shoulder straps, blur velvet ruffs, gauntlet shape,
slashed with red silk, six buttons :n pairs, vest of
white Marcela, with roll collar and six buttons.
Yorkshire Light Infantry. Jacket of scar-
let, roll collar of blue cloth, regimental shoulder
straps and cuffs, vest of blue doth : edges and
pockets trimmer) with gold cord, fastened with
three buttons,
Shkoi'siiiiu Light Lnfantrv______Jacket of
scarlet, roll collar of Ыне cloth, scarlet shoulder
straps, cuffs ol regimental pattern of blue cloth,
plain cloth vest.
.Miuhle'sex Regiment.—Jacket ol scarlet, with
roll collar, regimental shoulder straps, cuffs and
vest.
Wiltshire Regiment. Jacket ol scarlet, with
roll collar of white cloth, scarlet shoulder straps,
white cufls, and vest of white washing material,
with collar.
Manchester Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet,
with t'oll collar and regimental shoulder straps,
cuffs and vest.
North Staffordshire Regimen).—Jacket of
scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder
straps and vest.
York ami Lan<:asiiike Regiments. Jacket
ol scarlet, roll collar of red silk, red shoulder
straps, regimental cuffs and vest.
Durham Light Iniantkv.—-Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar of rose-coloured ribbed silk,
scarlet shoulder straps, white cuffs and regi-
mental vest.
Koval Irish Fusiliers. Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and
cufls, blue cloth vest, with mil collar.
Connaught Rangers.—Jacket of scarlet, with
regimental collar, shoulder straps and cuffs, and
vest of green cloth, pockets front of bottom to
the side seam, edged with J inch gold cord, five
huttons of special pattern down the front.
Leinster Regiment. -Jacket of scarlet, with
roll collar of blue cloth, blue shoulder straps and
cuffs, vest of blue cloth on white, according Io
climate.
Rovai Munster Ft siliers. Jacket of scar-
let, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps
and cuffs, vest of blue cloth, roll collar and three
buttons.
Roval Dunlin Fusiliers.- -Jacket of scarlet,
with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps,
cuffs and vest.
MESS JACKET FOR THE EAST RENI
REGIMENTS.
On the sketch opposite we give an outline of
a Mess Jacket for the East Kent Regiment. The
various details are found as already described.
MI the points marked on this diagram agree
with those marked on the other Mess Jacket
system. The shaping of the lapel is to a certain
extent a matter of taste. If the diagram is fol-
lowed in this particular the result will be satis-
factory. Hie sleeve diagram given shows the
style of cuff for this particular regiment, and
illustrates the position of the pointed Hap and
buttons, etc. This being an exceptional style of
Mess Jacket. I have pleasure in giving the fol-
lowing details. It is made of scarlet cloth and
lined with scarlet silk or Italian, instead of the
usual roll collar and step. The. roll is covered
with scarlet corded silk, having a broad rib : th?
edges ol the Jacket an- piped from the step of
collar Io about <> inches round the bottom. Hie
outside collar is ol buff cloth, and is not piped
The shoulder straps md culls are slashed ; are
also of buff cloth, and these arc piped with white,
same as the. edge, showing about ! inch wide.
We specially direct the attention to the fact that
the collar is not piped, whilst the shoulder straps,
cufls, and slashes are piped.
MESS JACKET FOK SCOTTISH
HIGHLANDERS.
This bears some resemblance to the former, as
far as Shape is concerned, and inasmuch as this
Jacket has to do the double duty, serving as a
Drill as well as a Mess Jacket, it has tn he
adapted somewhat. The collar is made to serve
either as a stand Collar tor drill purposes, and tn
fall over for mess wear. It is made of scarlet
cloth, with collar and pointed cuffs, or the regi-
mental facings, edged all round with white cloth.
J inch wide, ten buttons down the front, two
above each cuff al back of sleeve, with shoulder
cords, as worn on the doublet. In the Royal
Highlanders, the jacket will have buff silk
lining, except for collar, which is dark blue, and
no facing cloth on the inside. The point of cull
being arranged at the back scam, in the Seaforth
Highlanders, the jacket will be lined with red,
and the inside of the collar of the garment on
cither side with crimson silk, instead of facmg
cloth. In the Cameron Highlanders, the jacket
will have buff silk lining md no facing cloth
on the inside. In ihe \rgvk and Sutherland
Highlanders, the jacket i> lined wilh pale yellow.
rhe inside ol ihe collar blmund, lite inside of the
jacket and cither side wilh facing cloth. Our
sketch shows this arranged with collar standing.
tJur readers will easily be able tn imagine the
appearance it would have when the collar is
liirned over and the front tn.idi the form n(
revers. They will also sec the importance of the
buttons not being sewn through the facings, rind
the button holes being worked both sides.
MILITARY MESS JACKEI.
ROLL COLLAR SYSTEM
Draw line i G, mark from i lo О i inch, О lo
E 4 depth oi scye phis J inch ; О tn !• is depth of
scye as taken on figure. О to G is natural waist ;
continue below natural waist 3 inches, come in
from G to II 1 inch, and draw line from О for
centre of back from О to 11 ; this must he kept
quite straight, .'is the back is cut on the crease.
Draw lines at right angles to 1, E, F, and G,
t to A i of neck nhis | inch. Measure off width
of back tn D, plus | inch, and square up Irom D
to В A breast, plus 1 inch, and mark mil from В
seam is a inches. Suppress the waist between
Q and R 1A incites, am! shape the side scam ol
side bud} as shown. Make point D a pivot and
sweep from bottom of back to find bottom of side
body. Now make point T a pivot and sweep
from I inch above D to find the top of side scam.
From A tn J is -J breast.
Square down a line from J, take out IA inches
suppression from S tn T ; the larger amount is
best taken from the side body , as it makes a some-
what smarter garment. file sidebody is sprung
out slightly below S and is terminated about
lA inches below thi waist seam from J lo I is A
chest measure, plus -• inches ; I to К is across
lo C j to 1 inch. By these points shape back scye
from В to C, the shoulder seam from C to A, and
the back neck form \ lo O.
Draw line from D to (1 and hollow side al I
from J tn 1 inch ; mark the width of hack from
11 to О 1A inches. From Q lo bottom ot side
chest measure. Make point К a pivot and sweep
to find point N. using the front shoulder
measure, less width of hack neck, from О to \ ;
now add 1 inch to tliis quantity md sweep trim»
I., where the two segments intersect each other,
locates ihc neck point. From \, mark out to О
i of neck ; measure up tin waist from II to <J,
R io S, and T to U, tn the A waist measure, plus
i meh.
Draw line from О through I to U ; drop the
front 4 inches below the Waist line , mark in
Irom T tA inches, and down ij inches, and draw
straight line from this point across, and curve
i inch. Shape the gorge, as illustrated, and lit
neck with a roll collar; to find the slopt of
shoulder at M, deduct »hc distance from J to
О S, from the over-shoulder measure, and by the
remainder sweep from К to M. Shape the eeye,
as illustrated, and complete, a-- per diagram.
STAND COI I \R MESS JACKET.
I his would be cut on precisely the same hues
as those described, with the exception of the
neck, and the front would be terminated nt the
breast line. The way to find the top ot front at
the neck would be to measure down from <’ A
neck, plus A inch, in the same w о as described
for Tunic.
MESS \ EST.
Tlte general pattern of the Mess Waistcoat is
very similar to that of an ordinary Dress \ । st, a
horseshoe opening in front, finished without
collar, and fastened with four buttons J inch
size. 'Set lull-length figure on page 44, Em
colour ul Vest see detailed list on page 35.)
THE SYSTEM.
Draw line 1 G, and mark down to О i inch.
О to E depth of scye, О to G, natural waist come
in from G to II 1 inch and draw line from <> to
11. H to Q is A inch, and by these points dniw
centre of back, as illustrated, from (J past A
to O.
Make point I a pivot and -weep from О to C ;
make \ to C J breast, plus A inch, and so find
shoulder slope.
Measure from 1 tn J, A chest, plus t inch, and
shape hack scye. Erom О to S is J waist, plus
r inch
Draw line down from J, as illustrated. Mark
forward to T 1 inch
Make from J to I A chest, plus t inch, 1. to
К ivross chest measure, munis J- inch. To iitid
point X sweep from К by the trout shoulder
measure., less j inch, less width 01 hack neck
from <) to A . now add ’/ inch to this quantity,
using point L as 1 pivot, and sweeping again in
the direction of X ; when- these twii segments
intersect each other locates the neck point ;
measure out from X to <) ^ of tin neck, and draw
line from O' through L to (' and X : find point
M bv deducting distance from I to О S, from
over-shoulder measure. Shorten it another
J inch and sweep, using point l< ns a pivot.
Make M to X f inch less than from \ to C , mark
forward from X' to V £ inch, making the depth
ol opening usually about ik inches above L ;
mark back 3 inches from the breast line and
draw line from B, as illustrated.
Shape the front with a gradual curve. The
length of Vest must be made up tn measure, ami
this usually runs about 3J to 4 inches below the
waist, and'it should not extend more than 1 inch
below the waist at side ; as in no сам must it
show below jacket : add on f inch of button-
stand, nnfcgrnplete, as diagram.
MESS WAISTCOAT EUR HOUSEHOLD
CAVALRY.
('or the ist Life Guards the \ est is cut to
fasten up the front, and finished with a stand
coll и ; it is made of blue cloth, edged nil round
wnh i inch Ince, цок! studs down the Iront,
curved pockets without welts or lace, i’or the
2nd Life Guards n is cut in the same style as the
Horseshoe Vest; made from l-ght blue cloth,
edged with ’* inch late round the edges, across
lop ol pockets, which arc put in with a welt, gilt
studs down the front.
MESS VEST FOR ROYAL HORSE GUARDS.
1 his is cut to fasten up to tin neck and finished
with a st md collar. Il is made ol scarlet cloth,
to lasted down the front with hooks and eyes,
edged all round, including the collar, with i inch
gold lace.
Pockets on either side, trimmed .dong the tup
with lace, the same as put down the front.
THE MESS W USTCOAT FOR THE FOOT
Gl \R1)S
Illis is made of garter blue cloth, with roll
collar, four ornamental regimental bultons, for
Ihc Grenadier Guards and Coldstream Guards;
and three lor the Scots Guards.
MESS DRESS FOR INI INTRY OF THE
LINE.
The Mess \ cst worn Ы Infantry ol tin Line
is ol the ordinal\ evening dress cut, the same
pattern as 2nd Life Guards, but made to fasten
with buttons instead of hooks and eyes. The
Waistcoat may lie of white or scarlet cloth, or
of \rhilr washing material, wl hout lapels,
Listened with four J inch buttons of regimental
pattern.
MESS W USTUO.V1 FOR HIGHLAND \\D
SCO! FISH REGIMENTS.
this is made of cloth of the colour oi the
lacings, scarlet cloth, or regimental tat tan , in
other respects the style is the same as doth Mess
Waistcoat of Infantry of the Line. The Gordon
Highlanders' Mess Waistcoat is made of scarlet
cloth, with roll collar and three small buttons.
(Nee illustration. Grenadier Guards.) In the
Koya] Highlanders' Mess Vest it is of regimental
tartan. Cut with roll collar, fastened w th three
buttons ; in the \rgvle and Sutherland High
landers it is made of reguncnlnl tartan, finished
with a roll collar, front of pocket uranged with
gold cord md fastened with four bullous ; n
the C. mernn Highlanders Ilie Mess \ csl is made
of blur elolh, with roll cnll и, rhe front of ihe
pocket is trimmed with Russia braid and live
buttons.
MESS W X1STCOAT FOR THl HIGH) \ND
LIGHT IM IN ГК\
This is made of tartan of var.ous regimental
patterns, S.B., no collar, opening way down,
three regimental buttons in front, the AVaistcoai
edged all round with J meh round gold cord,
pockets 011 each side, edged with similar cord,
forming a crow's-foot at the centre md at the
ends.
MESS VESTS.
Tin isi Lnt Guards .md Royal Horse
Guards have their Mess Vests cut with a stand
collar, fastened up to tin thro.it with hooks hnil
eyes, it is, therefore, necessary to make some
little variation to lh.it shown on the system pre-
vioush described. \ll the lending points arc
the same. with the billowing exceptions. No
provision is titiidt for button stand down the
front, and the gorge is taken tip to the neck at
Л, and cut round to ihe neck point X ; irnin N
to <) is i neck, () to \ A neck plus 1 inch, point
О being squared at right angles to I. N.
fastened with hooks and eyes down the front ; it
is, therefore, necessary to add on front N to В
about i inch, and draw opening of Ihe iron! from
В to A, as illustrated. The various points on
this diagram arc marked with same letters as
are used in the full description of the system, so
that it may he completed in that way.
Foor Guards. This is cut with roll collar
and V shaped opening. Ihe gorge may be cut,
as illustrated by dot md dash line, or it may be
rut as per solid line from В to A. In the latter
case the roll is simply laid on. I he arrangement
is perhaps the simplest plan, as it allows the
crease row to be easily adjusted to the require-
ments of the wearer.
lids Vest is made to fasten with buttons down
the front, so that it is necessary to add on 4 meh
on the button-hole side, and rather more on the
button side.
Mess Vest for Uigiii asij Light Ini iNtry.-—
This Vest is of the S.B., no collar, type, opening
rather low ; I inch is added from N tn В in front
of the breast line : in other particulars it is
finished in the same wav as previously described
for the System.
PATROL JACKET.
The Patrol Jacket is practically one of the
obsolete garments of military uniforms, but
inasmuch as it is still retained in one or two
branches of the Service, we. thought it desirable
ахп l и г Guards. This is cut practically the
same .i- is described in Ihe System, the exception
being that it is cut without a button stand, A to
X. representing the breast or edge to edge line ;
this being necessary in order that it may he
to illustrate it by a diagram and figure, so that
our readers may know how to cut the same, and
make it up, should it be required. At the same
time we are not unmindful of the fact that this
is the most popular garment worn for Band Um-
forms, and .is old iniht.iry patterns are now avail-
able for this purpose, there is nn reason why this
should not be freely used for occasions of that
kind.
PATROL JACKEI FOR HIE SCOTTISH
RIFLES.
This is mad' of rille green cloth, aS inches long
from the, biittom of collar behind, for Officer
5ft. <)in- in height, with proportionate variation
for any difference in height. 'Die. bottom of
front w rounded, the collar and cull's of rille
green cloth, black mohair braid 1 inch wide
down the; front, round the bottom of the
jneket and round the slits. Mohair braid
is traced inside wilh Russia braid, form-
ing eyes nt each .ingle of tin slits. The
buck scon is trimmed with 1 inch mohair
braid, traced on both sides with Russia htaid,
forming three ryes nt the lop and iwo eyes at
the bottom of iiach s’.di •, in front live loops 1 f
black square cord, fastened with olivetts, etch
loop lorming an eye almvi and below in the
Centre, and a drop at Ihe end : :i cap at each
drop ; culls pointed w ith 1 meh mohair hioid,
with a tracing of black mohuir braid above and
below the collar; cut square and edged with
mohair braid, t inch wide, tracing below the
braid and on the collar seam, forming an eye at
the earner ; at the back, below the centre of
collar, a tracing, lorming n plume ft inches deep ;
this is lined with black and (listened down the
front wilh hooks and eyes. \ pocket is inserted
on either side Ih.-Iov the lourtli loop and <.1 v
inside on left breast.
Shoulder cords of black chain gimp, with
badges of rank as for Ihe Doublet.
PATROI FOR KING'S RO\ \I RIFLE
CORI'S.
Tins is prariicaltv Ihe same as for the Scott.'sh
Rifles, wilh tin exception that the collar is
edged ill round with A inch mohair braid and
traced inside with Russia braid, form ng an rw
nt each end. The cuffs are ol the pointed pattern,
and the collar and cuffs are of the regimental
lacings.
PATROL JACK! I FOR THE RIFLE
BRIG\l)E.
This is made of rille green cloth of ihe same
size and shape ns already descnilxtd. The collar
and culls are ol black velvet. There is black
mohair braid, 1 inch wilt-, down the front, round
the bottom of ] icket and round the slits. The
mohair is traced inside with Russia braid, form-
ing eyes nt each angle of the slits. The back
seams are trimmed with t inch mohair braid,
traced on both sides with Russia braid, form-ng
Kit Lb REiIIMP.NTK.
Military
three eyes nt the (op mid two eyes lit Ihe bottom :
five loops of black square cord are placed al each
side of the front, and these are fastened with
Olivctts, each loop forms an eye above and below
the centre, and a drop al the end ; a cap or netted
button is put at the top of each drop ; pointed
cuffs, with i inch mohair braid, tracing at the
bottom with Russia braid, forming an eye in the
angle; the collar edged with t inch n ohnir
braid, traced below Ihe brti’d and the collar scam,
forming an eye in the corner al the back, below
centre of collar; the tracing forms a flume,
6 inches deep, lined with black, and fastened
down the front with hooks and eyes. A pocket
on cither side below the fourth loop, and one on
each side of the breast ; shoulder cords as for the
Tunic.
MI LITA RY PA 1 ROL J АСКЕТ.
Square line at right angle's to О, О to IT,
Patrol Jacket.
1 inch, and II IO 81 depth of scye, 11 to tbj
length of natural wirsl, square across line from
8} ami нН width ol back neck is made A the
total neck measure, plus | inch. Ilie back is cut
on the crease edge, and being worn without a
belt the centre of back is kept to the construc-
tion line. H to X is 4 depth of scye, plus 1 meh,
draw the line at right angles to this and measurt
off width of back phis [ inch. From yj draw
line to mA. and hollow the side seam of back
about $ of meh, 81 to 9. [ of breast, 8} to 12. g of
breast, 8J to 2ol, J breast measure, plus =*
inches. Erom i- sweep bv Ihe front shoulder
less -t-jt, the width ol back neck. Sweep from
2O| by the front, shoulder measure, plus I meh,
and so locale ihe neck point. bind the height
of back shoulder seam by measuring up from -f,
J of breast, phis 1 inch. Spring out 1 inch and
form the back scye. Now measure up from \
to B, and deduct from the over-shoulder measure.
and by remainder sweep I rum 12 and so find
ihe shoulder seam of forepart.
Suppress Ihe wnist -• inches between back and
side body, i.J niches between side body and ion-
part. ixl the forepart overlap the side body
i inch for «he spring over the hips. Mark down
tn \\ one-twelfth and finish, as illustrated.
The bottom of the forepart is drawn ii ini hes
below line drawn through from the back.
PATROL JACKET FOR STAFF ON HOME
SER\ ICE.
\ very snib-'lar garment to the I’Urol Jacket, is
the Military Frock. I bis must not be confused
with the Military Frock-coat, it being quiti: i
distinct garment.
The Frock worn by Sluff Officers is cut after
the style ol th» Lounge, but fastens down the
front with buttons and holes instead of hooks
and eyes. This, also, is free from trimming, in
the form of braid, hut has a plentiful supply ol
pockets. We will, therefore, give, thr regulation
del ads.
P \ 1’ROI. JACKl । FOR MEI D-
MARSUAL, M .
This is made of blur \ngo1a tartan, or serge,
according to climate, cut full in chest, and broad
in back, slits at sides м uh five reginn-nl.d buttons
down the front, tw > patch pockets on outside
breast, inches v ide and К inches deep, from
the top of the Пар. The top edge of the pocket
is to be in line with the skirt button. Thu porket
is finished with lliree pointed flaps, small regi-
mental button and hole, loose pleat on rear side
of pocket, two small outside patch pockets below,
wilh three pointed flaps, two inside breast Dockets
with vertical mouths and fasten with holes and
buttons. Two inside skirt pockets with holes and
buttons, lined with black dpaca. Shoulder
straps of the same material of the frock, fastened
wilh a small regimental burton. Stand and lull
Frock Gtvgfi Fateh for General Officer or General Staff.
collar, fastening with oni hook and eye, and the
collar sewn on to each side, in front and meeting
at the fastening arc gorget patches, pointed at
the outer end, the gorget patch to be of scarlet
cloth, |l inches lung and showing fli inch bJitc
light above and below the patch. \ loop ol gold
oak leaf embroidery along the centre and a button
i inch from the point slceacs with pointed cuffs
6 inches high, with if inch slit. Two small
buttons and butt on-holes.
'Hiis same style of Frode is worn by General,
Lieutenant-General, Major-General, and Briga-
diet-General.
FROCK-COAT FOR COLONEL ON THE
ST \FF.
This is practically the same as lor rhe Field-
Marshal, with the exception that it has a stand
up collar from ij- to t| inches high, in lieu of
stand and fall collar.
Frock Gut gel Petellfar I ohuid on fht Start.
On the gorget patch a loop ol crimson silk
cord three-twentieths of an inch in diameter is
placed along the centre, with a small button
i inch from the end, instead of the gold oak leaf
embroidery ; In all other details the same as for
Field-Marshal.
FROCK FOR OFFICERS OF THE HEAD-
QUARTERS.
Prock Gaifid Patch for Officers liehnr Rank ol General on
Heail Quarter», General, er Personal Shift.
1'his is made id blue serge of regimental
pattern, scarlet gorget patch, with crimson loop
with regimental button.
FROCK FOR 'Illi PERSONAL STAFF.
Hus is pr.nclically the same as the preceding
one, with the exception of the gorget patch,
finished with crimson silk gimp.
FROCK FOR V1DE-DE-C AMP ГО THE
KING.
This is made as described for Field-Marshal,
with the (oilowing regimental details:-—Collar
is stand and fall for General Officers, stand up
fur Officers below that rank, fastened with one
hook and eye ; gorget patch is trimmed with a
loop of gold chain gimp, gold or silk, according
to rank, along the centre, with button t inch
from the point, and shoulder straps with Royal
cypher and crown in gilt or gilding metal ; no
badges of rank.
GENERAL'S FROCK.
SYSTEM.
Draw line O, \ come up from O, t inch, i
to 2-J i neck plus i inch, О to 5, A depth of scye
plus A (inch, О to 9, depth of scye, О to 17, natural
waist, О to A A full length pins 2 seams.
Square across from these points, from 5 to 7-J-
witllh of back plus 1 seam ; from these points
square up to 4, Д breast plus т inch : mark out
from 1 то I. 1 inch and draw shoulder seam, as
illustrated. From q to 20A, A chest measure plus
2^ inches, 20A to 12 across chest measure, and
from these two points sweeps are made to find
rhe neck-point, 'lite first sweep is made from
point 12 bv the front shoulder measure less
width of back neck, add 1 inch to that quantity
and sweep from point jo! ; where the two seg-
ments intersect each other locates the neck
point F. From F to V is * of the neck ; now
place the angle of Hu- square on I ami 20A, mark
out to V of the neck, V to I neck plus 4 inch,
draw line from \ through 20| and from this
point square down, add on A inch for surplus room
in the front, ami reduce neck tn measure by small
V, as shown, at the gorge, add on ? inch for the
button-hole side, and sew on the button stand. To
find slope of shoulder sweep from point 12, by the
□ver-shoulder measure, less distance fmai 9 to
\V, o| the back, make the width of sh tuliler
from P to D I inch less than width of back
shoulder, shape scye by points so obtained, make
width oi back at waist equal to A ol chest, take
out 1 inch suppression 1x4 ween 6 and 7 and let
side seam overlap A inch at the bottom, leave
4A inch slit and complete side seam, drop the
waist line in front from L1 Io 1, 1 inch and come
down from 7 Io \ breast and square from A 1,
Io find spring of Ihe bottom part of the lorep.irt.
It will lie observed that we have left extra
room on front. This is intended to be utilised
on the right side for sewing on the hution stand,
the left forepart being cut away, as illustrated.
The sleeve is same as previously described.
FROCK FOR HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY.
This is made ol blue Angola tartan or serge,
full in chest, but cut with side bodies, slits at
side, live small regimental buttons down the
front, two breast patch pockets outside, f>] inches
wide, 8J inches deep, from Ihe lop of the llap ;
the tup edge of Ihe pocket in line with the second
button, with three pointed flaps, small regimental
button and hole, loose pleat on rear side 01
pocket, two outside patch pockets below, with
three pointed ll.ips, two inside breast pockets
with vertical pockets, mouths fastened with holes
and buttons, two inside skirt pockets with button
and hole ; shoulder straps id the same material,
steel shoulder chain w'ith badges of rank, black
lining, collar and cuffs nf the regimental facings.
f£N£HAi. &.
\&wuxr.
4j
\
sleeves with pointi-d cults, 0 Inches logit in front
and ’} inches behind, u ith slits and two small
buttons and hut ton-holes.
HOUSEHOLD CA\ \LRY I ROCK
SYSTEM.
This garment, is cut more on the lines of
the Patrol than any ol the others. Lue .System
for drafting is as follows:—Draw line ti \ \,
come up front О t inch, i to sj, J neck plus
{ inch, U to 5, J depth ol scye plus '. inch, О to
y, depth of scye, О to 17, natural waisl length,
О to AA full length plus A inch, square lines
from these points and mark off .is Follows: 5 to
7-}, width of back plus 1 seam ; from this point
square up to 4, of breast phis 1 inch, mark out
from 4 lo 1, t inch and shape back scye from t to
7}, shape shoulder from aj lo 1, as illustrated;
from 9 measure across j htcast to point 9, 3 ni
Ihe breast to point 12, md chest measure plus
31 inches lo point 30J ; or point »t> may be
obtained by measuring back from point ao|, the
across chest measure; llrid the position of neck
and shoulder point is previously described and
shape scye and front in the same way ns before.
In locating positions of Ihe seams, the billowing
rules should be followed W idth of back at tne
waist is made equal to one-eighteenth ot the breast,
width of back it the bottom is made equal to onr-
I well th of the breast, lA inch of suppression is
taken out between back and side body and side
body is made to overlap the hack J inch at the
boitoni ; square down from point y, .md lake out
from J to 1 inch suppression let side body of fore-
part overlap for ebout J inch. Find spring of the
front as previously described, and complete as per
diagram
FOOT Gl \RDS I ROCK.
The Foot Guards Frock is made of red Angola,
tartan, or serge, according to climate, cut full
m Ihc chest, and lined in Ihe Iront with scarlet,
blue cloth stand up collar and shoulder straps,
shoulder straps with small regimental button
it lop, and six large regimental buttons down
the front.
Grenadier Guards, equal distance apart.
Coldstream Guards, by pairs.
Scots Guards, by threes.
The band, i4 inch wide round tin waisl, with
spei ial pattern buck!» 2 ini Ites long, 1-} ini lies
wide, in Iront, the ticket pocket with shaped
llap and small bullon on each breast ; a small
pocket without button below the b ind ; i slit at
the cuff, with small button and Imliiin-holc.
Grenadier Guards, two.
Coldstream Guards, two pairs.
Scots Guards, threes.
System.
Draw line О Л A. О to 1 equal 1 inch. 1 lo
\, J neck, plus j inch. <) to I A depth ol scye,
plus J inch. () tn I depth oi scye. О to G
natural waist. U to \ \ full length. E to D
width of back, I) lo В 4 breast, plus 1 inch. В
to t J meh ; shape shoulder from \ to C. F to
J A chi -1 measure, plus . inches. J to К across
chest measure ; or it may be found by of breast,
from pmnt F. G to H J of breast. Shape side
seam, as illustrated. II to R, iA inches, square
down from J to U and measure up waist to
measure, plus seams, and reduce by Vs, as shown.
\s a general rule 1 inch should be taken out at
S Г and 1 inch at V, sweep for the shoulder.
First of all from K, using the front shoulder
measure, less О V of back ; now idd 1 inch to
this quantity and sweep again from point J ;
where the two segments intersect each other
locates the neck point X ; X In О of neck
I 'lace the square on J X, and mark out to О, О to
I*, f neck, phis J inch ; by this point draw gorge,
draw breast line from t) to J, add on 4 inch m P
and L to nothing at waist ; this is done to give
extra ease at that part ; .dd on , inch bullon
stand, and complete, as shown.
Го find the scye end of shoulder, sweep irom
point К by Lhe uver-shouldcr measure, less F О
S of back, make the width of shoulder a trifle
less than hack and shape scye, as illustrated
The bottom pari of forepart is cut nlT as a separate
skirl ; mark down from X to *, 4 of scat, plus
1 inch ; square by R * down to \V a nd add on a
trifle of round ; rnnu down from R to V, A of
scat, and square for front nt right angles to A
X. Tile position of pockets is illustrated ; a
-mall loop of braid is put at the side seam, at II
for the belt, tn go through ; sew on button stand
on right side and make provision for I his when
cutting the skirt; three small V< are taken out
of lhe waist seam of the skirt, with the object
of giving extra spring опт the hips. Hie sleeve
>s rut exacth the same as already described. T!u
LllUTI-Л ANT-COLoXEl
Major.
Secom> I.ihuten wr.
UNIVERSAL SERVICE FROCK.
arrangement of the buttons on the cutT has already
been stated.
Eor the Irish Guards there are four buttons put
in two pairs and a 11 it bar nt the waist.
UNIVERSAL SERVICE JACKET
Eor all other Officers the new Universal Service
Erock replaces the various patterns that were pre-
viously worn; a description ol this garment is
as follows: This is made of special Mixture
serge, of the same colour as that issued to the
men ; single-breasted ; cut as a lounge coat to
the waist ; very loose at the chest and shoulders,
but lilted at the waist; a e( inches expanding
pleat down the centre of the back, sewn down
below the waistband, and a waist scam and band
□f inches wide ; military skirl to bottom edge ;
i hook on each side at the wuist ; jacket cut low
in Iron! ol the neck ; turn down (Prussian) collar,
to fasten with one hook and eye ; tab underneath,
with Iwo button-holes, to button across the open-
ing ; 2$ inches fall in the front and inches at
the hack, collar edges to run V-shape, showing
top button Itetween ; two cross-patch breast-
pockets, til inches wide and 7A inches deep to the
top of the flap, Д inches box pleat in the centre;
two expanding pockets below- the waist (plc,its nt
the sides), gf inches wale at the top, luA inches at
the hollnin, 8 inches deep to the top of the pocket,
fastened at the top with a small button ; flap, with
button-hole, to cover pockets, inches deep,
tof inches wide, sewn into bottom edge of waist-
band. The tup of the pockets should be sewn
down at the corners in such a manner that on
service the pocket can be expanded al the top also.
Outside ticket pocket in top of the waistband on
the right side ; inside watch pocket, with leather
tab above (or chain or strap, l ive large buttons
down the front, the bottom one on the lower edge
of waistband. To be lined or not as required,
with lining of similar colour to the jacket. Cuffs
pointed 5J inches deep at the point, зА inches
deep at the back.
SHOUJ DI R STRAPS
are now only worn by Staff Officers. for whom
they have two broad stripes of red doth with
i inch serge, light.
All other officers have plaited braid shoulder
cords.
BUTTONS.
Gilding metal, ungilt, “die
mounted," Regimental patterns.
struck,’' " not
BADGES.
On the ciillnr of the service dress jacket- -The
present pattern field cap badge, or the present
pattern collar badges, but in hrown bronze.
BADGES OF
Staef.—Metal, as worn on blue serge frocks,
vidc Dress Regulations, paragraph j.
CUI ES.
Regimental Oi ijceks. Rank will be shown by
braiding on the sleeves with drab braid and by
distinction badges on the sleeves, as shown on Ihe
accompanying illustration.
It will be seen that there is a slash six inches
long at the forearm seam, and seven inches long
at tlie points ; зА inches wide at ihe bottom, and
3 inches at the top. This is edged with fancy
drab braid. Distinction marks according to lank
are put in the slash. Round the cufls ate rows of
braid, together with narrow’ Russia braid, also of
drab. The position and arrangement of these for
the different ranks will be gathered from I lie
accompanying diagrams.
MILITARY SERVICE JACKET.
We now place before our readers the diagram
of an Officer's Service Dress jacket, as made by
one of the most renowned military tailors in the
West End, who have a style of cut and finish
which is essentially their own, and which is, con-
sequently, nut in accordance with the sealed
pattern kept at the \\ :ir Office.
The main differences are an absence of cuts at
the neck, the skirt is cut in one with the body part,
and the slash on the cuff is formed by the braid.
Large numbers ol these jackets cut in this style
are now being rnndi, and worn by Ilie officers.
In a future issue we will give an up-to-date
diagram of the scaled pattern style.
llic following are the olliei.it regulations;—
It is made ol a special mixture serge ; single-
breasted, cut as a Lounge Coat to waist; very
loose at the hest and shoulders, but fitted at the
w list ; .in expanding pleat down the centre of the
back ; sewn clown bekiw the waist-biuid, and a
waist-seam and band j| inches wick ; military*
skirl to lioltoni edge ; a hunk on each side of the
waist; jacket cut low ni front of the neck ; turn-
down Prussian collar, to fa-ten with one hook and
eve, a J inches fall in front, and 2 inches at ba. к ;
with leather tab over lor chain or strap, five
large buttons down the front, Ihe bottom one on
the lower edge ol waistband Го be lined or not,
as required, with lining ol similar colour to the
jacket. Shoulder straps of melton cloth the same
colour ns the garment, edged al) round except at
the shoulder seam, according to the branch ol the
service, attached to Ihe jacket by an tinderpiece
passed through a loop on the lower part of the
shoulder, and lasienrd at the top by a small button
which passes through both underpiece and
collar edges to run \ -shape, showing lop button
between ; two cross-patch breast pockets above,
6| inches wid< and 7J inches deep to thr tup ol
the llap, j j inch box-pleat in the centre : Iwo ex-
panding pockets below the waist (pleats at the
side), yj inches wide at the top, 10A inches .11 Ilir
bottom, H inches detp to the lop of the pocket;
fasten at the top with a small button ; llap wilh
biitlon-hnle to cover pockets, inches deep,
roif inches wide, sewn into hot Into edge of the
waistband. Outside ticket-pocket in lop of the
vv listhand 1111 thr right side, inside wtitch-pockvl
shoulder strap ; the cop of the strap is triangular,
the sides being about ri inches long, and the
button 1 inch from rhe centre point. Culls pl tin,
with three pointed slashes, laced and braided
according to rank.
Badges of rank in worsted on the slashes.
Buttons: Gilding metal, ungilt, " dir struck.''
not ' mounted." Regimental patterns.
THE SYSTEM
Draw lines at right angles to О. () to \ 1 inch.
\ to В 4| inches \ to C depth of scye as taken
<>n customer. Continue to N W lor natural waist,
and to Г L the Full length, plus 1 inch fur seams.
(J to I) Д neck. В to Ё width of back phis seam.
Square line up and down from back pitch. 1 Io J
one-twelfth breast, and spring out I inch. Hollow
waist A inch, and curve side seam into back scye
about i inch above depth of scye line. Гаке out
a fish of | inch or , inch al the back about к inch
E *
in Irom \ \\ Allow j) mcho all down lhe
back for the pleat, and complete the hack as
shown.
TUI EOREPART.
Suppress lhe sidcseam «it lhe lorepart ) inch or
i inch, and add ij inch spring al the bottom,
C to 1 is ) lhe breast plus J niches. t to 2oA
is ihi / breast, plus з| inches. Sweep by the
from shoulder measure less the back neck from 1
Arid i meh to this quantity, and sweep again from
zoA, and where these segments cross locates the
neck poinl. Sweep from b be the over-shoulder
measure less to C to J of the back, and make
G К a trifle less than the corresponding width of
the back. G to X al H is ' neck. 11 to J is neck
plus } inch. Lhe average neck lor the 36-mrh
breast is 15,. Square down from _<.!, and drop
the wa si line in front , inch. Reduce tin waist
by a fish under the arms ol 1 meh. ind another
m the front of J inch bind the spring ,d the front
by dropping down Irom the w list line tn ’ one-
twelfth of the breast, ami squaring at right angles
to * L. Drop the front 1 inch as shown Add on
J inch for the hiitlon-tiolc side, and t;' For the
button side, mid complete as shown.
THE SI EE A I-
Draw lines at right angles tn О. () to В 1 inch.
I) to A is the distance between the Irom of si vi-
and the back, or a tulle more than between line
J and F, I? to C the size of the Upper part of the
scye between the two pitches. 'lhe length to the
elbow and cuff is made up to the measure taken
I’he forearm is hollowed r inch .it D. and Ihe
width from r to у is | chest plus 2 inches. 'I’he
width of lhe cuff is ’ breast plus ’ inch. 1- to E
is 1.J inches. Eor the undcrslecve. A to D is the
same size as the lower part of rhe scye between
the two pitches. 'I lie collar Is cut as shown on
the diagram, and is onh a straight piece 4.$ inches
wide, and of the necessary length.
THE SI Al.ED PATTI RN
of the Ljnivcrsal Service Jacket is cut ns ri Lounge
to the waist, with a 2} inch expanding pleat down
the centre of back lo the waist, hut sewn down
below the waisl seam ; a 2J inch W aisl-band is
sewn on round the w list.
Tlie length of lhe skirt below the waist-band is
ihc same as lor the tunic. Iwo cross pockets
and flaps are placed on the hips below the waist,
the flaps being stitched on under the wmst-band.
The flaps are 3A inches wide and lof inches long,
lhe packets below being of the bellows pattern,
and are made у inches at the top and 10j indies
at tht bottom. The expansion is lacked down
at top ami Imttom of the pocket, except for active
service. There is a ticket pocket placed on rhe
waist-band on ihc right side, and a waldi-pueket
placed in the kit lacing, hour large bultons are
piaced down the front, two small buttons outside
the breast pockets, and a corresponding number
for tlie hip pockets. 'Die breast pockets have a
box-pleat 24 inches wide down the centre. О to
A is 1 inch. A to В 4} inchi s, or half the depth ol
scye plus A inch. A to C 8.J inches, or the depth
of scye ; on to \ AX', H».J lhe natural waist length.
О to D j ol X, plus J inch. D to E A inch. В to
E width ol back plus two seams. E to G ,\ breast,
phi-- t inch. > to II 1 inch. Square down (• ! lo
w usi, and suppress back ' inch. Suppress waist
at back 1 inch, and arid on и zj-inch box-pleat.
I lie waist line is sewn round back as well as fore-
part. Spring out at bottom back by dropping
square as pv dotted line J. inch. Suppress tore
pari .is marked The front of scye is found at
one-fourth of breast plus 3 inches from centre of
bark; or by measuring back from zot unc-fourih
of В M, less -J ini'll. леА tit w list is drawn at
right angles from zoA В I he cut.- nri: regulated
according to the amount of ease, etc., that is
required round waist. Phi: run of gorge is found
by going out from Ihe neck point of neck, and
drawing line Irom X through breast ind waist
points.
l he Sleeve t— () to A is 1 inch < I to В dislam c
between pitches. A to C width ol sleeveliead.
The Collar: Draw lines O, D md 1''. О to A
is the difference lietwt-i-ii depth of stand and ‘all,
phis $ inch. A to В is d'^pth ol stand В lo C
depth of fall D Lo E depth of st md m front.
Mil HARA' ( »\ I RCOA Г.
The Military Overciiat is praciii ally the same
for all services, those used for mounted officers
being cut with extra spring so ns lo provide for
the special requiiwients of that class.
The following arc the official reg-illations of the
Military Greatcoat :
Cloth, drab mixture, milled and water-proofed ;
daufdv-breastvd, lo reach within a foot of the
ground, stand and fall collar, 5 inches deep (2 inch
stand and i inch fall), fastening with Iwo books
and eyes; cloth lab ind bullon; a ej inch in-
verted expanding pleat down the centre of the
back, from the collar to the waist, terminating
under the back-simp : loose turn-back cuffs of
single material, n inches deep ; two slits at side,
ia inches long, je.aled in will) bullon-ratcli for
pin.kel-mouth ; two large patch pockets inside of
same doth ; one button .md bole In each pocket
mouth ; and left pocket mouth to answer for the
sword slit ; a pocket in the breast placed vertically
between the second ind third Inilton ; two rows
of buttons down the front, four in each row,
about bA inches apart, lhe rows S inches apart at
the tup and 4A inches al the bottom (these
measurements an not In be exceeded); two tabs
and button- lo slit in back seam : .1 2-inch cloth
hackstrap fastened with three holes and buttons ;
skirt to fasten w ith two tai s .md buttons inside,
U N MOUNTED Ul i'ICPU.
MOUNTED OPFICER.
Back View .
MILITARY O\ EWCOATS
3(11.1!» l*3lJL3VHrl S',aiUJ.nn ill IX
!>S
and to run squarely all round ; '* Raglan ”
shaped sleeves, with a cut taken out on the
shoulder ; coat lined on shoulder and sleeve only ;
shoulder straps.
The edging of these is as follows :—
Si m r.—Two broad stripes of red cloth with
J inch serge, light.
Cavalry oi the Line.—Edging, | meh yellow
doth.
Rovai. Artillery. -Edging, ] inch dark blue
doth ; in the centre a loop of scarlet braid
from the shoulder seam round the upper end
of the button-hole, the sides of the loop f inch
apart.
Rovai. Engineers. As for Royal Artillery,
but with colours reversed.
Infantry.—Edging, i inch scarlet cloth.
Xr.mv Service Cours.—Edging, J inch white
doth.
Rovai. Akmv Medical Corps. — Edging, j
inch whin cloth ; loop ns for Royal Artillery,
but of dull cherry braid.
Xr.mv Pay Dei'.vktmi NT.—Edging, | inch
white doth ; loop .is tor Royal Xrtillery, but of
yellow braid.
Army Ordnance Department.—Edging,
inch white cloth , loop as tor Royal Xrtillery,
but ol scarlet braid.
Ammy X’eterixarv Department.—Edging, |
meh white cloth ; loop as for Royal Artillery, but
of maroon braid.
Provost Marshal. Edging", } inch white
cloth ; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of black
braid.
Inspector of Army Schools.— Edging. }
inch light blue doth.
Badges of rank are. worn on the shoulder end
of the strap.
For mounted oRicers the coat is cut below the
waist, with spring Io form 16-inch lap, or H inches
on from the centre line. The slit at the back
should be of suitable length for riding.
THE SYSTEM.
Draw line A B. \ to D i inch. D to F depth
of scye. D to E is | inch more than half D to E.
D to С is natural waist plus 4 inch. X to C
r of breast phis 4 inch, and up | inch. Draw back
neck through C to A. E to II half back, plus
J inch. II to I is 1 of breast plus i im li. and out
i inch always. I to J J breast plus A inch ; on
to 22, and back from 22 to К j breast plus
J inch. 22 is I breast plus । inches. Square down
from J to waist line, and mark out 5 inches on
cither side. Drop square t inch for spring of
back and forepart. 11 to M is from shoulder
measure less A C. 22 to M is 1 inch more than
К M. M to X is J breast. \ Io О is same, plus
4 inch. Draw line of breast. X, through О to jx,
and continue by dropping square A inch nt K, and
continuing on to bottom. The dotted lines show
the necessary alteration for Cavalry.
WAL ST BEL T.
E/alf iviz&A. of
THE CD 1.1 \R
Draw line О D E. l> to E is depth of stand
at front ; mark in | inch. D to <> length of collar.
О to X is ihe differenci between stand and fall,
phis ,4 inch. X to В depth of stand behind. В to
C the’ fall.
THE SLEEVE.
First draw nut an ordinary sleeve. 3 is midway
between 1 and 2. 3 to 4 is same as M S ol lore-
part, less 4 inch. From 3, sweep from |, as
indicated. From 2. sweep from 4, as indicated.
Measure Irom forearm pitch of lorepart to neck-
point, and make 5, <1, of sleeve, same, plus A inch.
Hollow ,’ inch as •Down. Mark on sweep line
from o, 1 inch, and connect wilh 3. Mark out
from 4 1 inch, and draw to 2, and hollow out
} inch.
The cut on the shoulder of the sleeve is covered
with .1 shoulder strap of Ihe same cloth as the
garment, edged all round except at the shoulder
seam, according to the branch of the Service,
attached by an underpiece passed through a loop
on the lower part of the shoulder and fastened .11
the top by a small button whi< h passes through
both undvrpiece and shoulder simp ; die top of
the strap is triangular, the sides being about
1J inches long, and the button 1 inch Irom the
centre point.
HOUSEHOLD CA VALKA’ CLOAK
The cloak worn by the Household Cavalry is
a very loose fitting S.B. garment made up as
follows :
ist Life Guards Scarlet doth, blue cloth
collar and cape, rose and chain fastenings, scar-
let serge lining to the waist.
2ND Lh I Gt ards. Scarlet cloth, with blue
cloth cape, rose and chain fastenings, with scar-
let cloth collar and scarlet shalloon lining to
the waist.
Royal Horse Guards.—Blue cloth with scar-
ГНК cutter's practical guide
let cloth collar and scarlet Raftinet lining.
Shoulder straps of the same material ns the gar*
merit, with small button nt regimental pattern
at the top
depth of scye; О to К natural waist ; I) to P
lull length, which runs abuiit 50 inches for a
figure 6 feet.
Square lines across from t D. F K, and I’.
SYSTEM FOR HOUSEHOLD CA\ \I.RY
CLOAK.
System for cutting cloak is as follows: For
ordinary 36 chest figure, select measures as for
a 42 chest, and proceed as follows :
Draw tine О I’, mark up from О to 1 i inch ;
О to D 1 depth of scye, phis A inch ; О to I
О to A breast ; I) to E width of back plus two
seams ; square up from E to (i | breast plus J
inch, H to (’ -J io 1 inch Square down from E
to G ; F to H is J- breast ; F to I is j breast
pins 4 inch ; from F id J is the chest measure
plus з| inches.
Sweep from point T In thi front shoulder
measure plus J ini h ; add 1 inch to that quantity
unci sweep again to point J. Where the two
segments intersect each other locates lhe neck
point \ .
Now sweep again irom point I' by the over-
shoulder measure Jess A inch, less the distance
I В of the back ; this will give the slope of
shoulder, the width of shoulder being made to
harmonise with the back Mark out from \ to
\\ at right angles to \ J, J breast ; mark down
from W to X A breast plus j inch, and so obtain
the gorge. Now draw line Irom W through J
to S, and so get run of front ; beyond which
add on 2 inches for the button stand. Square
down form II to M, and mark out from M lo X
and M to L about 3J inches, drawing the line
from II through 1. and X to О and R ; Ihe width
round the bottom edge should be 140 inches ;
and 1 nmplete the diagram by adding on about
1 inch beyond S,
Five buttons are placed tip the front and a
short vent about 15 inches is arranged up centre
nf back, 'lite dotted line indicates Ihc position
ol the strap ; a small tab is placed at the bottom
of the front to fasten together at that part
when desired.
Sleeves arc drawn as usual with the exception
that the width of the elbow is made full A breast
and the width of cuff i breast phis 1 inch.
The collar as illustrated on this diagram is as
follows:—
О to SA neck measure; () to iA, il inches;
О to 2, 2 inches, which gives depth of stand ;
2 lo 5, 3 inches, which indicates tin fall. l"he
Cape worn with this is a very full one it being
cut by placing the shoulder points of coat to-
gether and taking out a \ ol about 2 inches
as per diagram.
FOO'l GUARDS’ O\ ERCOAT.
lite Overcoat worn by the Foot Guards is
made of the D.R. Frock style from grey cloth,
with shoulder -traps of the same material as
the garment, with a small button of regimental
pattern at the top ; hack straps are placed down
back ol pleat, 12 inches long with a point at
centre and bottom, with buttons as diagram.
Six buttons are placed at the front, pockets are
put in the pleat ; turn back cuffs are arranged al
the bottom of the sleeves.
SYSTEM FOR FOO’l GUARDS’
OVERCOAT.
Draw line О, X W , I) lo 1, 1 inch ; О to D,
A depth of scye plus J inch. О to F, depth ot
scye ; О to X W, natural waist length. Draw
lines at right .ingles to 1, D, I- and X W. X \\
to 1, 1 inch. Draw line О to 1, and so obtain
centre, of back.
Die back Ls cut on the crease. Shape back
neck by making О to \ Д breast. Mark <11
width of back, on line DI phis A inch. Square
up from D A breast plus A inch, and mark out
from to R to C to 1 inch. Draw line from
E to X \\. and hollow at <1 A inch. Mark
the width of back at waist _>A inches ; F lo (I
is , breast, plus J inch : F to T is breast plus
A inch : F to J is breast measure phis «4 inches.
Sweep for the neck puint, V, from I, by the
front shoulder measure, plus 1 inch, less width
of back neck; add 1 inch to this quantity, and
sweep again irom J. Where the two .segments
intersect each other locates the neck point.
Find slope of shoulder at U by sweeping from
I by the overshoulder measure plus A inch, less
F R of hack.
Square out from \ by J A .A breast, and mark
down from * to X i breast phis A inch. Front
К to I is 1 inch.
Tlie sidebodv and forepart are hollowed A
inch. Draw line down from Fl, measure up waist
to measure phis 3 inches; hollow the waist seam
A inch ; sweep from К to bottom of sidebody,
using E as a pivot, before drawing lhe line for the
bottom of the forepart. 'File sewing- to edge of
the lapel is drawn strnight, the width of the top
is 5 inches, the width at the bottom 2 inches.
For the skirt mark down to * A breast, md
square down from hip button g inches. Mark
out from 9, 1 inch, and draw line from hip
button through that point to bottom. Add on
3 inch of round, hollow waist seam $ inch at
top. To get the spring of the front, mark down
from hip button*. breast less 1 inch. ITie
sleeve is drafted as usual : the width of the
elbow being made 1 breast phis J inch ; rhe
forearm being hollowed i inch" Irom that
quantity. The width of the cud is made J
breast plus t inch, and a turn-back cuff is made
4 inches at front and back and 5 inches at the
top.
MILITARY DR EAT COMS.
DOMINION Ob' CANADA.
A Special pattern Overcoat is worn in Canada.
Il is cut from heavy milled cloth of the colour
as lor ordinary gnat corns, and is made D.B.,
with a stand and lull collar, high enough to fully
cover die ears when turned up. In shape, it is
of the body coat pattern, but made somewhat
looser so ns to fit over the Mess or Patrol Jacket ;
ii is cut lo reach within a foot of thr ground,
glissade is used to line the sleeves, and cloth the
body and skirts. Astrachan fur is used for the
covering of the collar, black on the blue coats,
and grey on the grey coats ; the lapels tire lined
with similar fur on tile inside, that is, Ihe surface
next to the breast tv hen the lapel is fastened up ;
the fur on the collar and lapels is doubled over
the cloth, forming an edging 1 inch wide on the
reverse side ; the edging is continued down to
the waist seam. 'Die cuffs are trimmed with
similar fur, 5A inches deep all round ; four loops
of 4 inch black square cord down the front on each
side, each loop forming an eye in the centre, on
lop and below, and 11 crow’s foot at thr end.
Black netted Olivclt on each loop near to crow’s
loot, two Olivetts on the waist behind. \ pocket
is placed on the inside of the left breast, and
pockets inserted in the pleats of skirt ; three hooks
and eyes are put on the collar, and shoulder straps
of the same cloth as garment, with neat button at
the top ; fur used fur Officers of Rifle Regiments
is black.
"Pho method of cutting is as follows : —Draw
line О E, () to 1, 1 inch, 1 to \ Д neck, plus
i inch, о н» В J depth ol scye, plus .J inch,
C) to C depth of scye, <> to I) natural waist
length, О to E, lashion waist, В to ! width of
back, plus one seam, F to G J breast phis i inch,
G to H I inch ; by these points shape hack scye
and shoulder seam. Draw a line from I to D
and find point J, A or , inch inside the dotted
line. Width of back at waist is made up tn
г inch to this quantity, and sweep again from
point M ; where these two segments intersect
each other locates neck point \ . To find point
X, sweep from point L, by the over-shoulder
measure plus J inch, but minus the distance
from C to I of th»- back, lower the scye about
?. inch between line C M, and complete scye
as shown. From Y to X is j inch less than
+1 inches, so that it should be cut about eA
inches from D to N, I*, to S being the same
width. The bottom of the back is stumped, the
centre of the back is cut on the crease ; from
C to M is chest measure phis 4 inches, M to I.,
across idlest plus 4 inch ; from these two points
sweep for the neck point Y, and use front
shoulder measure plus A inch less width of
hack neck : when sweeping from point L, add
width of back shoulder Л to fl, C to К is }
breast plus J inch, take out 11 or t4 inches
from X to O, lake out t inch from P to Q, and
measure up waist to measure plus inches.
Now use point F as a pivot sweeping from S Io
T, draw line across from T to \V at right
angles to line О E, hollow the waist at \ about
| inch, and complete body part. I ho gorge
being found by squaring out from Y M to X
A neck, and make X Z neck plus , inch. The
lapel is cut, with ihe sewing Io edge of ihe
same shape as front edge ol forepart, the
width of the lapel at top is 4 nch<-s anti 3 inches
at the bottom.
For the skirt, hollow the waist seam a bare
J inch, mark down irom W to -J- breast, and
square for hack pleat at right angles to 4$ T ;
mark off the length as desired. To get ihe
spring of the front, measure down from Г jJ,
г breast phis • inch, and square at right angles
to W ; add on at the front the necessary
width for the lapel, making the length ol front
to agree, and complete as shown. The sleeve is
cut iis follows: О to 1, 1 Inch, О to 5A is width
ol scye, which may be found by deducting the
width ol В F from the distance from C to
I. the hindarm seam of sleeve is located at the
side scam, and the forearm at point L ; to obt.dn
tin- widtli ot sleeve head measure rotultl top
scye from I* to G. and across to L ; apply that
from 1 to to ; О to 5 is I distance from 1 to 10 ;
measure off length of sleeve to elbow anti coif,
hollow the forearm at elbow 1 inch, and make
the widtli of elbow from 1 to 9, about ] of the
breast. lite width of cuff may In.- math- J)
breast plus r inch. For the under sleeve
measure round liie bottom of scye Irom F to I.,
and apply that quantify fr<>m 5^ to 8|, and com-
plete as shown.
COLLAR.
Draw line at right angles, mark off from ()
to SA A size of neck, come up from »A 1 inch
and shape the sowing In edge, () to ij is i-J-
incites or the depth of stand required. tj
to Si '"s li inch» s or depth of fall required.
From SA to 11 is 2J inches, and from it to 3
is 3 inches ; complete collar as shown.
MILITARY TROUSERS.
The alterations, which came into force on the
a 1st of January', 1902, had the effect of abolish-
ing gold lace from Trousers, wilh the exception
of ihe Household Troops; tin cloth stripes
on the trousers, are now to be the same aS
those worn previously on the pantaloons. In
the Amy Veterinary Dei’akt.mext, ituinxiii
cloth has to be worn instead of Ihe scarlet cloth
on trousers and pantaloons, and in ail other
branches of the service, the old style ol undress
trousers are now the only pattern. V special
note was made in the Army Order slating thal
the trouser stripes should b< sewn on, 1101 let
into the garment, which of course refers to
Ihe wide stripe and not to the piping on trousers
worn by the Infantry.
Tlie trousers worn by Field-Marshals and
General Officers arc made Irom bine cloth with
scarlet stripes, j.J inches wide down the side
seams.
ITousers worn by the Head-Quarters, General
and Personal Staff have a ij scarlet stripe
Trousers worn by the Household Cavalry lor
full dress are made from blue cloth wilh g nd
1 на down the side seam.
ist I 11 u Gi ARiis. I'wo stripes each ij inch -
w ide with a scarlet welt down the centre.
-nd tail Gt arms. One stripe aj inches wide,
blue in ihe centre.
Royal House Guards.—One stripe af inches
w ide.
For undress the stripes arc of scarlet cloib
and are ai fanged as follows :—
ist Lnt Guards.—Two stripes tA inches
w ide.
2ND LiiTt tn \Kiis.—Two stripes 1 j inches
wide, $ inch ip.irt, with a scarlet welt or piping
bi iween the stripes.
Royal Horse Guards. ’Пите is a single
stripe, 24 inches wide.
Dragoon Guards and Dragoons Trousers
arc made of blue cloth with cloth stripe of Ihe
same colour as those worn by the iirii inches
wide.
2ND Dragoon Guards. One stripe 1$ indies
wide made from white doth.
<>tii Dragoon Guards.—Two white stripes
J inch wide, with f inch space between.
In all other regiments the stripe is rj inches
w ide.
Hussars.—Trousers ol blue doth (with the
exception of the 1 ith, which are made of crim-
son doth with two J inch yellow cloth stripes,
J inch apart).
13ТП Hussars.—Two white stripes J inch
wide, A inch apart.
All others with two yellow stripe*, 4 inch wide
with A inch space beiwi.n.
Laxters.—Trousers of blue, with two stripes,
J inch v ide, with £ inch space between.
t/tii I.inters.—The stripes art; white.
But in all the others they are of yellow.
Royal Horse Artillery’.—Trousers of blue,
with H inch scarlet stripe dow n I In sides.
Royal Engineers.—Trousers worn are made
of blue doth with 2 inch scarlet stripe down side
seam.
ixr intra Trousers, Font Guards at Levees
and Drawing Rooms. AATien full dress is worn
in the evening, blue doth, with gold lace tl inches
wide down side seam ; on other occasions, blur
cloth with scarlet stripe 2 inches wide.
Im antra or the Line (except Highland
and Scottish Regiments). TYousers made of
blue cloth, with scarlet well or piping ' inch
wide down the side seams.
Highland iND Scottish Regiments.—Trews
of tartan of authorised pattern.
Scottish Rifles.— *1 rews are of tartan of
authorised pattern.
R11 i.f.s (K ng’s Koval Rifles and all others).
Trousers of rifle green cloth with j inch black
braid down side scams ; but, for summer wear,
they are made from rifle green tartan.
West Inola Regiments. I’ronsers are made
from while material lor all ordinary occasions.
Chinese Reguients.—Trousers arc inaib of
the infantry pattern ; from Oxford Mixture in
cold weather, with red welt or piping dm side
seams ; in hoi weather khurki trousers are worn.
Army Service Cori s.—Trousers oi blue cloth,
two strips of white cloth each , inch wide and
i meh apart down the sides
Army MiamtL Cor 1’6.—Trousers of blue doth
with, scarlet stripe aA inches wdde down side
seams.
Ar.my Okhnance Officers,—Trousers of blue
cloth with two Stripes ot scarlet cloth JJ inch wide
and J inch apart al each side seam.
OFFICERS IN THE \«.MY PAY DEPARTMENT.
Trousers of blue cloth, with two yellow cloth
stripes * inch wide | inch iparl down each side
seam.
Army Veterinary Department. Housers of
blue cloth with maroon cloth stripes if inches
wide.
Provost Marshal, Military ano Mounted
Police, Governor oi Military Prisons.—
Trousers of blue cloth with scarlet elolh stripe
inches wide down side seams.
Instructors of Army Schools,—Trousers
made ol blue elolh, with two stripes of scarlet
cloth, each at inch wide, with light blue cloth
between A wide.
IXFANTRi TROUSER SYSTEM.
Proceed to m irk oil tin length ol side and
leg ; make О to fi | ol seat, О to у j seat.
О to 12 J of seat. Square down from 6, and
up In.m 9. Make A to 10 j waist phis inch,
and spring out Irom to to 13 as illustrated,
bind the position of knee by measuring down
from о 10 K, 2 inches less than A leg measure ;
from К mark 1 iff j size of knee, on the side
seam side of H, make ihe width of tup side |
of bottom minus f inch.
On the leg scam side of В mark the width
of bottom -} bottom, minus J inch. Complete
the draft of top side as shown I ake out 1
int It dress in the usual way.
For the undersides mark up from q * ’ of
sent plus 1 inch, from 9 to 13I, A of scat, add
t inch to the underside nt the knee and 2 incites
at the bottom. Draw line from ic up through
*, add 4 inches o-f body rise, and find top of scat
piece s inches from the scat seam.
MenSure up the seat to measure plus 2 inches,
add on ’ inch of spring at the bottom, carefully
adjusting ihe size of knee and hot torn, and see lli.it
only i inch is allowed for making up, and complete
as illustrated.
CW MRS OVER MLS
Mark off the length oi side aiui leg as illustrated.
Mark from О to о | of seat, О to 9 1 seat, О
to 12 oi seat, squnn- up from g and clown from
6.
\ to iu is | of waist beyond which i inch is
added i inch is dso ridded lieyond (.), Ilie kin
is found in the ordinary wav by measuring down
from о 2 inches less than | leg measure from К ;
mark out j of knee plus i inch, and Irom H mark
out J of bottom plus iJ inches. This will give
extra width to Ihe top oi side. To find the run
of the k‘g seam measure in front К | ol the knee,
and measure in from I! j of the bottom minus |
inch ; complete draft of tup side ns shown ; take
out i inch of dress iu the ordinary way.
For the underside mark up from у J ot the. sent
plus i inch, and out from у 1 of the seat ; draw
line fmm t; through raise lop of underside 4
inches above the lop 01' fronts. To find the jtoint
ol the sent piece mmr in 2 inches from seat seam.
Make up w fist lo measure plus 1 inch at the
side scam. Measure up 'hr seat to measure plus
2 inches. Maki- the knee of underside ] knee
measure less t inch, md the bottom of underside
to bottom less t inch, and draw line as shown.
\drl t inch to the leg seam at knee of underside
so that the total size of knee when rut is 1 inch
more Ilian mcasnri desired Make up bottom to
телчпге plus 1 inch, and complete draft as shown.
SYSTEM 1-0 К SC()TCI I I R E W S.
I lie system for cutting Scotch trews is practic-
ally the same as we have already described for
the- Infantry trousers; but there is this differ-
ence to be noted-—they are cut without a -.ide
seam, consequently the width of the knee is ad-
justed entirely it the leg seam, with lhe result
that a rather hollow leg seam results ; this, how-
ever, is helped as far as possible by manipulation,
thi side seam being shrunk al lhe knee and the
lower part of the leg manipulated in such 1 man-
ner <is to get a hollow on the side seam (ot rather
where the side seam should be), rather than the
leg seam.
THE STEM.
M irk off lhe length ol side scam and leg seam,
Seeing that the bottom id the leg seam starts with
a stripe. This is important, otherwise the stripes
would not harmonise with those worn by other
officers.'' In like manner, the vertical stripe
should he arranged 3J incites from the side nt
bottom, This having been done, mark across
front О to 6, ol the scat, О to у { of the seat,
<J to 12 J of the seat. The centre lint- of leg
is found at the. bottom by marking in from the
crease edge of the material, | of the hot lorn plus
r inch ; and a line is drawn from that point by
the point o. The fork and knee lines being
drawn at right angles tn this construction line,
from 10 measure across | of w-aist and spring mil
* Those worn by tlie men star! 21 up from the
bottom, but officers start at the bottom.
to meet the crease edge at side as shown. Give
a link spring above to provide lor the necessary
size of body, hi measuring' off the size of knee,
measure from the crease edge inwards I knee pkts
j inch ; di.ivv line from point iz down to bottom of
leg seam : the position ol this latter point is placed
* of rhe bottom less £ inch from the centre con-
struction Ilin- To slope the tap sides over the
foot take out one or two fishes ns indicated, start-
ing directly across the top bar of the check and
then staining the edges together tn this way the
top hues of the check go over in the instep, aid
then proceed to mark out the under side. To find
the angle of the seat mvastin up Ironi 9 to 7, J
of the seat plus 1 inch ; measure back from 9 to
13I, i of the seat ; draw a line from 12 through
7, connecting it with point 13A, and spring out a
little at lop. Now measure up w list to tminsure
plus 1 inch, and see that the seat measures up to
a >eat plus j Inches ; add on 1 inch at the bottom
of the leg seam at underside and complete as
shown
ANOTHER Ml 1ТЮ1).
There are some cutters who prefer to follow a
somewhat different course to the above; they
cut out an ordinary pattern as previously
described for Infantry trousers, and they stretch
the material into shape, so that it follows the side
scam tn the Lop side ; they then place the pattern
on with the first strip level with the bottom, and
the first vertical strip inches from the side
scam, and they then arrange the top and under-
side so a- to dispense with the side seam, at least
up as far as the hips, where it is permissible to
take out a A , so as to adjust the garment to the
size of the wearer at waist. Take fishes out ;is
previouslv described of the top side over the in-
step in order to get them to lit snugly at that
particular part ; the fish being afterwards -.touted
the material being stout enough to allow lor this.
HINTS ON MAKING.
It is customary to finish all trousers with a fob
pocket only ; it is, however, becoming more and
more the custom to have tin m finished with cross
porkets. there being less likelihood of the con-
tents fallingout than in the lob pockets. A\ hen
fob pocketsere preferred, however, it i-generally
desirable to finish tbi n with a flap, with button
and button hole. ihe military regulations with
reference to the sewing on ol the stripe down side
seam arc that they shall be I lid on, rather than
inserted with the seam ; this, however, only
refers to the wider stripe, and not Io the narrow
piping', such as is used on the infantry pattern.
The plan followed for this being to cut a piece of
scarlet cloth about twice ihe width ol piping'
desired plus two seams. In the case of the in-
fantry, the size of piece of scarlet required would
be about 1 inch wide, this is generally basted in
with Ihe ordinary seam, and by taking- | inch
!•'
scams width. In the event of two stripes being
placed down the side, it is the custom to make
them up on n separate piece of cloth, and tlie
best results are obtained when the cloth lo b<
used for the stripes is cut the width of stripe
desired, tlie edges Surged together and then
stitched to the si ripe of cloth, the total width of
the two stripes. In this way the stripes can be
made up very much mon accurately than in other
styles. When secured thus tn the trousers the
same plan would be followed ns when ihc wider
stupe is used, then it is n comparatively easy
matter to adjust them to the trousers in the posi-
tion desired dow n side seam
CA\ \LRV TROUSERS.
It is customary to finish Cavalry Trousers
with a foot-str ip; it is very ite]Hirtant that these
should he kept in the proper position ; the
button should be well staved before the strap
buttons are put on the inside. Ilie first impor-
tant detail is to find the centre of the heel, which
may generally' be obtained by marking m r inch
from the centre con struct inn line <»f the system
laid down in this work ; (rom that point mark
3A inches on either side, and that will give the
position of the first strap button. It is customary
to put on two strap bultons ; the slope of the
hoi tom ha’ ing been carefully marked, put a piece
ol lining on the inside of lhe turn up and secure
the strap button through it, before felling the
turn up of the bottom- \v hen this has been done,
the linen may be adjusted to the outside in the
neatest possible style, so as to secure altogether,
.uni then trousers may be finished. In other
details the usual rules are followed, and as we
presume this work will lie mostly read by those
who have a practical knowledge of garment
making, it is unnecessary' for us to enlarge upon
the more ordinary details of trouser making,
suffice it to say that military garments must be
smartly finished and must have a fair amount of
form infused into them.
PANTALOONS.
General Officers.—Pantaloons are made
from blue cloth, with 2 A inch scarlet stripe down
the side seams.
Headquarters ash General Staff.—Panta-
loons ol blue cloth, i; inches scarlet stripe.
Household Cavalry.—Pantaloons are made
of white leather, for full dress ; for undress. I hey
are made of blue cloth with scarlet stripe,
1st Life Guards.—Two stripes each ij Inches
wide.
2ND Life Guards.—Two stripes each t; inches
wide and J inch apart, with i scarlet welt or
piping between the stripes.
Royal Horse Guards. Pantaloons have a
single stripe 2J inches wide.
Dragoons. Pantaloons are made (rom blue
cloth with stripes of the same colour as worn
bv the men ij' inches wide.
jnd Dragoon Guards;—One stripe ( inch
vv ide, made of white cloth.
(iTH Dragoon Guards.—Two stripes ? inch
wide with j inch арап,
I Iussars.— Pantaloons are made of blue cloth
(nth crimson), with two stripes, , inch wide, of
vcllovv' cloth i inch apart.
13i'll Hussars.—Pantaloons arc made ol blue,
with two white stripes ’! inch wide, 1 inch apart.
Lancers.—P.mialoons of blue, with two
stripes I inch wide, with J inch between.
ryni 1 anceks.—-Two white stripes.
All others yellow. i
Royal Horse \rtilleev Pantaloons of blue
cloth, with 1, inch wide scarlcl slriju down the
side,
Royal I ngineers.—Pantaloons are made ol
blue cloth, with 2 inch scarlet stripe down side
seams.
KoriT Guards.—Pantaloons of blue, with scar-
let stripes down side scams, j inches wide.
Infantra (except Scottish and Hk.iii ami
Regiments.)—Pantaloons of blue, with scarlet
welt or piping, j inch wide
Scottish and Highland Regiments.—
Pantaloons of tartan uf authorised pattern.
Scottish Rifles.—Pnntaloons of 1 irt.m
authorised pattern.
King’s Royal and all regiments of Rifles.
Pantaloons of rifle green, 2 inch hlnck braid
down thi side seams.
Mounted Infantry.—Breeches worn are made
of Bedford Cord
\h.aia Si rvicf Corps. Pantaloons arc made
of blue cloth, with two white cloth stripes, each
J inch wide, i inch apart, down side seam.
\hmy Medic it. Corps.—Pantaloons are made
of blue doth with scarlet stripes 2J inches wide
dou n side seams.
Army Ordnance Officers.- Pnntaloons of
blue doth with two stripes ol scarlet cloth each
eleven-sixteenths of an inch, and 4 apart,
Officers of the Army Pay Department.
Pantaloons of blue, with two yellow cloth stripes
1 inch wide, J inch apart, down each side seam.
Officers ot \kma Veterinary Department.
—Pantaloons of blue, with maroon cloth stripe
1 A inches w ide.
Provost Marshal, Milit.-aka and Mounted
Police, Governor Military Prisons.- -Panta-
loons of blue cloth, scarlet cloth stripe ij) inches
wide duAi 11 each side scam.
CLOTH PANTALOONS.
Mark off length <»l aide seam and hotly riar in
the Usual way. mark from О to I» ft of sent, О lo
9 j of seat, О to 12ft ft plus * inch ; square up
from g and down from о ; 6 to 3 is 3 inches, 0
to 9 i.s g inches ; mark out from 9 '/ inch, and so
open the legs, drawing' the centre line from 3
through to O- Mark down from 6, tl inches,
for extra leg length and from this point measure
off the length tif leg to knee, small, calf and
bottom. Make the width of lop side at } of
w list plus 1 Inch; add on 1 inch at O, measure
across from C 10 E, } of knee plus if inches ;
measure from О Io T, | of the hottom plus tA
inches ; and drew line straight through from
E to I : continue the side seam as per dotted
and dash line ; now measure off Ihe side from
C to G, { of knee plus the seam, II to I. J of
small plus th< seam ; M to P | of call plus a
seam, <3 to V of hottom, phis a seam ; com-
plete lop side as illustrated, For thr underside
mark up from 9 to * ft of seal plus 1 inch, mark
011I from 9 to 1.] I -if sent plus ft inch, draft seat
scam as illustrated. Make top ot scat seam 4
inches above top side : to find point of seal piece
come in 2 inches from seat seam. M< isure up
thr waist to measure plus 1 inch, and the seat to
measure plus 2 ft inches; now make up the width
of underside at the variiHis parts to measure,
allowing for seams. These are made to fit closely
at thigh, knee, small and calf. A A is taken out
of the underside al t) which is provided for at \V.
I trust my readers understand that from II to J
and II lo К equals the A small measure phis two
seams, and so on with the various parts.
SYS] I M FOR KNICKERS.
The method for culling .Military Knickers is
as followsО lo О ft of scat, О to 9 | of scat,
О to 12 ft sent ; square down Irom n and square
up from 9 ; Irom to К is length desired, К to
4, is 4 inches, for bagging over. From 4 to \
is J size of bottom desired plus / inch ; Irom
4 to A is the same amount, from \ to T is 1
inch, from H to to is | waist ; spring mil to 13,
and complete as shown ; add on 11 inches of
round opposite О ; lor the underside mark nut
from 9 to 7, ft scat plus 1 inch ; draw line for
Seat seam from 12 through 7 lo top, from 9 to
1 tft is ft of the seat, complete scat seam and leg
seam as illustrated, Finish the bottom of leg at
V ; from A to I1 is same distance as from \ to 'I ;
measure up scat to measure phis 2ft inches ;
measure up waist to measure phis 1 inch ; make
top of seal piece 4 inches above top side anil
make point of sr it piece 2 inches from seat seam,
and complete as shown.
For the knee band mark across from О to 15,
1 inch more than size of knee ; f) lo 10 j of that
distance, from 15 to 1 is 1 inch curve up from
to to 1, О to 4 is 4 inches, 15 to 3 is 3 inches ;
draw line 1 to 3 at right angles to to, and com-
plete as shown.
(W
THE cutter’s practical guide
Military Kmckeu’s System (Риде 67}.
HINTS O\ THE MAKING UP OF KILTS.
The making up of Kilts is a speciality which
is very seldom tackled by the ordinary tailor, and
in the course of conversation with a cutter
engaged in one of the leading West End
Military trades, he informed us that it was the
custom of his firm to procure kilts from Messrs.
Fraser & Co., of Inverness, who made a
speciality of this garment, and supply the trade ;
but, as this course may not always be possible,
it may he well for us to give a few general hints
to begin with.
Ilie quantity of material required is about 14
yards, and it is made of sufficient length to reach
to within 1 inch of the knee ; the average length
being about 25 inches. The kilt consists of three
parts, or rather three different arrangements ;
there is an under apron on the left side, the
kilted part at the back, the apron on the right
side. The apron on the right side is finished with
three pleats, in order to prevent any gaping at
that part, aud in addition Io this, it is the custom
with those who have made a study of this particu-
lar garment, to arrange this part with a fair
amount of spring.
The fitting part of the kilt is the lining which
is used for the foundation for the hips, which
must of course harmonise with the shape of the
figure. ‘Iliose having small hips would require
n straighter skirt at the top than those with large
hips. The materia) used for the kilt is then
basted to this lining and is securely stitched to
il. The strap is placed it the top of the right
side with a corresponding buckle on the left.
SPAT PUTTEES.
On ine accompanying diagrams we illustrate
how to cut Ihe Military Spat Puttee. These are
rut in three parts: the back part ol spat, diagram
11. ; the front part, diagram I.; and the winding
part shown at the bottom. The two Litter arc
joioed together at tht side Jim \, diagram 1. The
quantities marked Indicate inches for a medium
size. Jiul as they are made adjustable at the hook,
one pattern will do for all sizes, The width ol
the Puttee part is 5 inches .it front, where it joins
the spat, ami inches for the rest of the length.
The length of the puttee is ; yards, and at the
end o! this 2 yards of t inch wide worsted tape is
sewn on.
Diagram 1. shows the width of these parts
with the foot straps attached and the steel hook,
very hk, 1 trouser book, and the join to puttee
at A. Diagram 11. shows the outside with the
buckle sewn on to correspond with the straps,
and three steel eyes placed one behind the other
so that the hook can be fastened to either, and in
this way the size adjusted tn wearer's taste. 'Ilie
edges arc turned in and stitched and the seams
are stitched on either side. Wherever a stay is
necessary, leather is used, but otherwise there is
no lining. The end of the put levs is lintshed
with a corner, the ends being turned down and
stitrhed and on to the end of this the brj m is
sewn.
TERRITORI \LS' UNIFORM
The following particulars of the uniforms to be
worn by the new Territorial Force have been pul>-
lishcd by Ilie War Office, anti as Irom these it
will he gathered their general style is the same as
those of the Regular Forces, with the use of “ T "
as a distinctive mark, and silver lace in place of
gold lace for decorative purposes
OFF1CI RS.
OBLIGATORY UNIFORM
The <>nly obligatory uniform for officers is
sendee dress as authorised in Ihe DresS Regula-
tions for officers of rhe regular army.
FULL DRESS.
\n authorised pattern of lull dress lor officers
is laid down for each unit, but its provision is
optional.
FULL DRESS, \\ HEN WORN
Officers attending Levies, Courts, State Balls
and ceremonies .it which royalty is present, and
on the occasions mentioned in Table A, page 277,
King's Regulations, must wear the authorised
full dress. Full dress will not be worn by officers
parading with their men, unless the latter are
wearing full dress or walkmg-out dress.
UNATTACHED LIST.
Officers gazetted to the Unattached List of
the Territorial Force will provide themselves with
service dress only. When called up for training
they will be permitted to dine at mess in plain
clothes
AIDES-DE-CAMP IO THE KING.
Officers appointed aides-de-camp to the King
will wear regimental uniform with a silver aiguil-
lette, or the uniform laid down in the Dress
Regulations for aides-de-camp to the King
appointed Irom Ihe Regular Army, with the
exception that silver will be substituted for gold
in the aiguillette, embroidery, lace, buttons,
cocked hat, sword-knot, slings, and horse furni-
ture. I he W'uist-sash will be ol gold and crimson
silk. The aiguillette will be worn wilh full-dress
uniform by these officers when doing duty with
their units.
The special uniform pi ( scribed lor aides-de-
camp to the King will only be worn when his
Majesty is present in State, at levees, and when
on duty as King’s aides-de-camp at field days
and other military ceremonies nt which his
Majesty is present.
An aide-de-camp to the King, who is also a
Lord-Lieutenant or Deputy-Lieutenant of a
County, will not wear the aide-de-camp’s aiguil-
lette with his lawd-Lieutenant's or Deputy-
Lieutenant's uniform.
HONORARY PHYSICIAN All HONORARY
SURGEON TO THE KING,
\n officer appointed Honorary Physician or
Honorary Surgeon to the King will wear on Stale
occasions, in addition to the shouldct-belt and
pouch, a silver aiguillette as for an aide-de-camp
tn the King, on the right shoulder under the
sliouldcr-cord which forms part of his uniform.
ARMA ST AFI
Officers appointed to the stafl of the army will
wear regimental uniform with the special dis-
tinctions laid down for staff officers (sec Dress
Regulations), silver being substituted for gold,
except for officers of units in which gold lace is
worn.
BRIGADE COMMANDER AND U.K. A.
Commanders of brigades and Commanders of
Royal Artillery, will wear the uniform laid down
in the Dress Regulations for substantive colonels.
Silver lace and white metal ornaments will be
worn on all uniform arid horse furniture by
officers appointed from the Territorial Force. As
an alternative, brigade commanders and com-
manders ol Royal Artillery n ay wear the uniform
in which they last served, with the badges of
rank of colonel.
BRIGADE MAJOR
Brigade Majors will wear the uniform in which
they last served, with the staff disiinctions pre-
scribed Гог Brigade Majors of the regular forces,
silver bring -ubstiluted lor gobi on the aiguillette,
cocked hat, forage cap, and gorget patches. The
provision of the cocked hat and stalf pantaloons
for wear when the order of dress is " Staff in
bite," is optional.
SERV ICE DRESS, COMMANDERS Ol
BRIGADES, ETC.
In service dress, Commanders of Brigades,
Commanders uid Staff CapLuns, Royal Artillery,
and \dministnitive Medical Officers, will wear
Universal Service Frock Солт. Mess Dress. Universal Service Dress. Full Dress Uniform.
ADMINISTRATIVE MI DI! \l OFFICER.
Administrative Medical Officers will wear the
uniform prescribed for Colonels of the Army
Medical Service, silver being substituted for
gold, or the uniform in which they last served,
with the bridges of rank rd colonel. They will
not wear the aiguillette or other staff distinctions.
STAFF C \H AINS, RA
Staff Captains for Royal Artillery will wear the
uniform in w hich they I ist served, without aiguil-
lette or st iff disiinetions.
the Ijlii serge irock described in paragraph 739,
Dress Regulations, but w ithout gorget patches ;
pantaloons or overalls ns in full dress. Drab
serv ice dress may be worn in camp and at
mancEuvrcs.
LETTERS ON SHOULDER STRAPS.
Retired officers appointed to the staff of thi
Territorial Force will wear the letter “ R " on
shoulder-straps and shoulder-cords below the
badges of rank. Officers appointed Irom the
Territorial Force will continue to wear the letter
.. т „
R WK |: \IX-Eb WL) LI' I I I K “ T.”
Badges of rank will be similar to those for the
regular army, and will be worn in silver on gold
shoulder-cords, and in gold on silver shoulder-
cords. The letter " I ' will be worn below the
badges of rank on nil shoulder-cords and
shoulder-straps. Ln service dress rhe “ T " in
bronze will he worn on Ihe collar of the jacket
below rhe collar badge.
BADGES OI RANK, RETIRED OFFICERS
Officers who have been permitted to retain their
rank on retirement front the regular army, any
army reserve officers will, when serving in the
Territorial I one, wear Ihe badges in lluir army
rank, should such rank be higher than their rank
in the Territorial Force.
FULL-DRESS UNIFORM, SILVER LACE.
Except in the cases of corps for which bjxjcwI
uniforms have been sanctioned, and which join
the Territorial Force as complete units of the
same army, full-dress uniforms will, as far as
|HiSsiblc, conform to th it of corresponding units
ol the regular forces, silver lace and white metal
buttons and ornaments being sitbsl iluled Гог gold
lace and gilt mend Existing yeomanry regi-
ments wearing gold I.tee and gilt buttons are
permitted to retain these distinctions.
GOLD I \GI
Units that desire, for any special reason, to
obtain permission to wear gold Lice and gilt orna-
ment*. must submit applications through County
Associations Inr Consideration Each case will
be considered on its merits.
CORT) INI) I \CE.
The cord and lace of officers ol Infantry clothed
in green or grey, will be of the same pattern and
applied in the same form ns that on the tunic of
rille regiments of the regular forces. Units
clothed in green w ill wear black cord and lace ;
units clothed iu grey, cord and luce or silver oi
other authorised material
BELTS
Officers of infantry units clothed it, scarlet will,
in revicvv order, wear the web sword-belt with
sliver-laced slings, and the crimson waist-sash.
In units clothed in grey or green, they will wear
black or brown belts of rifle pattern, with pouch-
belt of the same colour ; the flap of the [Kutch
will be edged with J inch silver Lace, and may, if
desired, bear the regimental badge in white
metal
SPURS.
Mounted officers will wear steel spurs.
FORAGE CAPS.
Forage cap- will be of the universal pattern.
Fur yeomanry Lhe bands md welts of the colour
of Ihc facings. For other services, as in the
regular army. Peaks for field officers em-
broidered with silver embroidery ; in units wear-
ing gold lace, gold embroidery Highland killed
and Scottish trewed regiments will wear Ihe
Glengarry cap.
SWORDS.
Swords and scabbards will bi; of the pattern
prescribed for correspomling units of the regular
army, sword-knots of gold or silver lace, or
brown or black leather, according to the belts.
•' SAM BROWNE " BELT.
The universal pattern " Sam Browne ” bell in
brown leather is to be worn with the service
dress by all units.
MINI D I NIFORM FORBIDDEN.
‘lhe wearing of mixed uniform, i.e., service
dress jackets with coloured trousers or trews,
or ’ ice versa, is forbidden.
MESS DRESS.
Units may adopt :i mess dress similar in design
to that approved for corresponding units of the
regular forces ; the provision of this dress is
optional to the individual officer.
SERGE FROCK.
\ serge frock, blue, green, or grey, nvording
lo the colour of the full-dress unilorm, similar to
that authorised for officers of the regular army,
may be worn as an undress garment. Buttons
regimental pattern ; badges of rank in metal ; no
collar badges. This garment must not be worn
on duty, or when parading with troops. Its pro-
vision is optional.
I-ROCK COAT.
Officers of rhe Territorial Force are not re-
quired to provide themselves with the uniform
frock coat.
S WDLERY.
Horse furniture will he of universal pattern as
laid down for the regular army, with white metal
til tings ; brass or gilt fittings in the case of units
wearing gold lace. Throat ornaments will not
be worn. Lambskins, leopard-skins, and saddle-
cloths are not compulsory.
BADGES.
The instructions in paragraph 553 in regard to
badges, also apply to the badges worn by officers.
CHANGES IN PATTERN.
No deviation from authorised patterns of uni-
form is permitted, and no new patterns of uni-
form, badges, or horse furniture arc to be intro-
duced without previous submission to the War
Office for approval.
RETIRED OFFICERS.
Officers retiring with permission to wear uni-
form are entitled to wear the uniform in which
they last served, with the letters “ T. R." on the
shoulder-straps or shoulder-cords below the
badges of rank.
NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS AND
MEN.
ANNUAL GRANT.
\n annual grant for each efficient non-com-
missioned officer and man is sanctioned for the
maintenance of clothing' and equipment, and will
be paid to the County Association.
SERVICE DRESS COMPULSORY.
The provision of service dress is compulsory.
The cost of service dress and the maintenance of
equipment constitute the first charges against the
grant.
DETAILS OF SERVICE DRESS.
Service dress will consist of;—
MOUNTED SERVICES.
Jacket : Drab serge mixture, universal pattern.
Pantaloons : Drab Bedford cord.
Head-dress: Service dress cap of universal
pattern. Units in possession of a slouch hat may
continue to wear it in place of, or in addition to,
the cap.
Puttees: Drab ; or
Leggings : Brown leather.
Spurs : Hunting pattern, brown straps.
Greatcoat: Drab, universal pattern.
DISMOUNTED SERVICES.
Jacket: Drab serge mixture, universal pattern.
Trousers or Knickerbockers: Drab mixture.
I lead-dress : Service dress cap, universal pat-
tern. For Highland kilted and Scottish trewed
regiments the Glengarry cap.
Puttees: Drab, universal pattern. Scottish
units wearing the kill, drab spats.
Greatcoat: Drab, universal pattern.
CYCLIST BATTALIONS.
Cyclists battalions may adopt drab stockings
and spats instead of puttees, and a drab water-
proof cape in place of, or in addition to, the
greatcoat.
FATIGUE CLOTHING.
Where considered necessary, fatigue clothing
may be provided lor use in stables by mounted
men.
GR EATCOATS.
Units in possession ol cloaks or greatcoats other
than those of service dress pattern may be per-
mitted to retain them until worn out, but no
further supplies oi obsolete pattern are to be pur-
chased.
SCALE OF UNIFORM.
Two suits of uniform will be provided for each
man, one of which must be service dress. The
other may be as previously described, and be
used as an undress or “ walking-out " uniform.
“WALKING-OUT" DRESS.
Undress or “ walking-out " dress will consist
ol tunic or frock, trousers or trews, forage or
Glengarry cap. Highland units previously-
authorised to wear the kilt may retain the kilt,
sporran, and while spats instead oi trousers or
trews.
SASHES AND GIRDLES.
A sash will be worn by sergeants of infantry
clothed in scarlet, and girdles by all ranks in the
case of units wearing tunics, and similarly
dressed to units of the regular army which wear
them. Girdles are not to be worn with frocks.
EXPENDITURE Ol- GRANT.
No portion of die Government grant is to be
expended on the provision and upkeep of any
articles other than those detailed as forming part
of the service dress or undress uniform. No other
articles may be worn without the sanction of the
County Association.
CHANGES IN PATTERNS.
No deviation from authorised patterns of uni-
form is permitted, and no articles of clothing or
badges, whether provided from the Government
grant or irom private lunds, will be intro-
duced without War Office approval. Applica-
tion lor authority to adopt new uniform, or to
effect any change, will be submitted, accom-
panied by samples, or, in the case of badges, by
sketches, and it should be stated whether funds
arc available to meet the expense. Patterns,
after approval, will be sealed and returned to the
units for record.
MIXED UNIFORM
The wearing’ of mixed uniform, i.e., service
dress jackets, with coloured trousers or trews,
or vice versa, is forbidden.
METAL TITLES.
The designations of the unit in black or white
metal will be worn on the shoulder-straps of
tunics and serge frocks, and in black or gilding
metal on service dress jackets and greatcoats. In
the shoulder-strap title the letter “T” will be
placed alwvc the name of the unit. Brass or
gilding metal titles will be worn on tunics and
serge frocks by units having permission to wear
gold lace.
BADGES.
Honours worn by units of the regular army will
not be worn by corresponding units of the
Territorial Force, and the word “ Ubiquc " will
be omitted from all badges and appointments
worn by Royal Artillery and Royal Engineers,
With these exceptions the distinctive badges are
common to both fuices. Io the " walking-out "
uniform they will be entirely in white metal or
bronze, except where special permission has been
given for the adoption of gold lace and gilt orna-
ments.
GILT ORNAMENTS.
No gold lace, gilt, gilding metal, or brass
ornament will be worn with " walking-out "
uniform, except in yeomanry units permitted to
retain gold lace, and in such other units as
receive special permission to adopt gold lace and
gilt ornaments. Gilding metal buttons will be
worn with service dress, except by units clothed
in green, who will wear the black “ rille "
button. Cap badges worn in service dress will
be ns worn in the regular army, subject to the
omission of honours.
CHEVRONS.
Chevrons and badges of rank will, in design,
correspond with those worn in the regular army.
LACE AND EMBROIDERY.
Non-commissioned officers of units clothed in
scarlet, grey, or blue, will wear chevrons of silver
kicc or of other material as may be authorised.
In the Royal Engineers and in the Royal Army-
Medical Corps, chevrons will be made up on
blue cloth ; Army Service Corps on white cloth ;
in other units clothed in blue or scarlet, on scar-
let cloth. In units clothed in green, non-com-
missioned officers will wear light green chevrons
made up on cloth the colour of ihe garment.
Chevrons with the service dress will be of
worsted material ; badges will be of metal or
embroidery, as in the regular army.
EFFICIENCY STAR.
Men who have been returned as efficient four
times may wear on the right forearm a star made
of silk or worsted. The four returns of efficiency
need not be in consecutive years, nor in the same
unit. An additional star may be worn for every
further aggregate of four years. A non-com-
missioned officer or man who has Irecome entitled
to wear a star or stars, and is returned as non-
efficient in an annual return of his unit, may con-
tinue to wear such star or stars.
Previous efficient service in the yeomanry or
volunteers shall count towards the award of this
badge.
GENEVA CROSS.
Medical units will wear the Geneva Cross as
worn by regulars. For non-commissioned
officers the edging will be silver embroidery in-
stead of gold, and for buglers and privates white
instead ol yellow.
BADGES. SKILL-AT-ARMS.
Badges for skill at arms, signalling, etc., will
be of similar design, and worn in a corrcsfxmdtng
manner to those ol the regular forces, except that
in all cases silver embroidery will be substituted
for gold embroidery, and while metal for gold.
They will be awarded under the conditions
governing the competitions for the several
badges.
UN AUTHOR IS EI) BA I >G IS.
No badges other than those above laid down
may ue worn.
UNIFORM ON DISCHARGE
Non-commissioned officers who have Served
ten years and upwards in anti above the rank of
sergeant, and who are allowed to retain their
rank on discharge, may wear their uniform with
the letter “ R ” in white metal or bronze above
the chevrons on the right arm. They will pro-
vide the uniform at their own expense. This
privilege does not extend Lo regular non-com-
missioned officers employed on the permanent
staff.
SALE OE OLD UNIFORMS.
Worn-Din uniforms will be disposed of under
arrangements made under the direct instructions
of Ciiunly Associations. Tin conditions of sale
will provide that the purchaser shall not, either
directly or indirectly, dispose of any tunics,
frocks, jackets, trousers, or head-dresses, as gar-
ments. unless they have first been so altered that
they cannot be recognised :is having been used as
uniform of the Territorial Force,
SUPPLY OF MATERIALS. ETC-
Materials, cut-out unmade uniforms, badges,
and head-dresses, as used by the regular fortes,
may be obtained from lhe Royal Army Clothing
Department at the rates quoted in tin Priced
Vocabulary <»1 Uloiliing and Necessaries, if oi the
description authorised lor wear by the Territorial
I orce. Tlie supply of other articles and the
making-up ol Ihe materials must be arranged
locally.
PAY MENT FOR.
’Ine .articles demanded will b< supplied on pay-
ment, which should be made on receipt of the
necessary receivable order Irom the War Office ;
or, if preferred, then vnlut will be deducted from
th, balance of lhe grant due to the Yssociatiou
□n the following November t. In special cases
the value may, with thi sanction of the Army
Council, be deducted in three yearly instalments.
UNIFORM PARADES.
Uniform will be worn at all parades, except
that company parades, parades under sergeant-
instructors, and musketry may, with the authority
id the officer commanding, be carried mil in plain
clothes.
UNIFORM ABROAD.
Non-commissioned officers and men when
attending banquets, receptions, or rifle meetings
in foreign countries, will not wear uniform un-
less specially authorised by the Armv Council.
PERM WENT STAFF.
PERSON 4 CLOTHING.
Non-commissioned officers appointed to the
permanent staff of the Territorial Force will
retain all personal clothing in their possession at
dale of transfer.
UNIFORM.
The uniform to hi worn by non-commissioned
officers of lhe permanent staff will be that of tin
unit with which doing duty, and will be obtained
on payment from the stores of the unit.
UI 11 \ RONS AND BADGl S.
Chevrons and badges will be worn as under,
and will hi id lhe pattern worn in the unit.
tiling Sergeant-M ijor, four bar chevrons and
crown on right forearm.
Sipi.idnm S.M. Instructor, Battery S.AL ditto,
Company S.M ditto, (Yilour-Sergeanl ditto, md
Staff-Sergeant ditto, will dl wear three bar
chevrons and crossed rilles and crown on right
mm above the dhow.
.Scrgiaint-lnstrnrtor, three bar chevrons and
crossed rilles on right arni above lhe eJbovv.
Crossed rifles will not be worn unless the non-
commissioned officer is in possession ol a School
of Musketry rcrtifiroite
In the Roy d trtillery, Royal Engineers, and
Royal Army Medical Corps, .1 gun, grenade, or
Geneva Cross will be worn in tddilion.
AVith service dress, badge- and chevrons will
be worn on both arms.
CONCLUSION.
I now come I о the concluding paragraph .mil
trust that what I have written md drawn Will
prove helpful to those who read tins hook. I
have used every possible endeavour to have every
detail correct, and have spared no pains to verify
Ihe descriptions by personal examination of many’
of the sealed garments. Il any mistake or in-
accuracy has hv am means crept in I must isk
my readers' kind indulgence, for the scope of the
work is very wide, and the number of specialities
dealt with is of quite an exceptional character. 1
have to acknowledge with many thanks the kind
help ol my former pupil, Mr. J. Hawkesford, of
the Royal Army Clothing Department, md of
others, whose names 1 am not al liberty to pub-
lish, but who have nevertheless rendered me in-
valuable assistance in lhe jjrcparation of this
book.
1 now leave ii in lhe hands of the trade and
remain
Yours fraternally,
AV. D F. A INCENT.
The New Universal Service Overcoat.
WhtUl tin' Uiet piigii. <it this
the priL-«- we receive^ notice tl
ot Military Overcoat hail beei
the War OlBcf, and wo have lli
miiselvea uf the these opportui
and photograph the same wilt
pri'pllimg №11 illllstl'hlmil lll.i] a
u e have now dour, and isatie n>
Wliii th. ilaelnn-aluqu Sw
Ml
at
a
rk
i n
pr
wi re ill
•w
at
n
style
1 by
ailed
•peel
IIII) t.it 1, V
UI
wiut first adopted, it oi а и II-
llini many prominent nmiv oifiei ale
objections I" it# style, though о
had tunny patrons
ap
rtMl
hioii
lix.
Ive cord
ent ert
fart
dried
Viewing the «out. from Ilir la
point, we were not greatly imp res
style; lull, although tl was tin p
ri-gitriU app .iraiii-e, yet fine and
admit that its design «’as. a wn
। rovi'iiient on the old great» at
rase und freedom
lor t
ed wit
•rf< ito
all In
Ie -I IB
a» re
Ln tlul new overcoat, л s*a «I
iihich has only recently lu'cn ethi
War ’'IWi.tr, v- hnvt wlml Me •
hlvnl gnrttiiu.i fut the officer on
The good features as regards «nt
yet the coat is smartened a
loyand doubt.
Ur hate uviiiled mnxlies о
pl, 11 p
•it-t j t,
«nd
h its
Il su
1 Io
hu-
’lU'ds
ti rd
t the
r an
*e viw
e .ire intiimed,
nil si lip) died,
ifiered by th< V\ ar Office to tr ilu
nary, to Inspect the sealed part th
1 r i.'ces-
, ,i i,d
taken full particular» id llur «а upt> >in
prepared u serve <d diagrams
others who are intorcsli'd may
dab' nt these mutters.
in
on ler
kept '
I i.i ve-
in id
that
p tn
8PF.CI \b FEATUltiS
Thu cut is the same for hot
infantry, the skids being made
old style.
The material is »imilar to tl
pat tern, except for IhcuHi who
t i wear Atjicd grey, such, fi>
gonenile and colonels of the (.1
file buttons an- placed ,nc
grade front Щ ajinrt al breiu-t
I (Itoni. Two ivory four .hole
ctirrpsjiotidrng tabs ludd tlw
skirt in |»>sttion.
i ol -r Im i tin
•it of I hi old
.ire piivilHged
• ii tie net, n*
np .n, nrol
il Ui'.- al
In ll> nr. and
Th.i pockets are of the cnrvtd
and are placed m. 13 Jiclira Ind >w
l‘>
. у
The bn» к lias the uhiuiI expai.dii ц
Ilie top, stsi med at waist, with I bix i
ing below llui wiib-t-lxdl..
The shoulder лент is not urn ngd
the shoulder
ShonJdcr-alnqis, with eluth pi
ent eoloues for the diherim bn
lows:
el ape,
de't at
у i pell
iig i ini
>in; о
ii. , .
Twi brond stripi's uf ml cloth, with
Jin nerse light.
Cuvalry of Ilie Line: Edging Jin. yellow
i.'luth. This piping I* ids,, nuod on ihu edge
of the collar ami cuffs
R.y.d Artilhry Bilging jin dark bltw
cloth; in the renin- u loop uf rend. I lirnid
from th- •m.iihlvr лент round 'hi- upper end
of the button-hole. The side* uf the h*op
Jin. apart
Royal Engine >m V for Riyal Artillery,
hul with nolunr» vnversed.
Infantry Edging JIu, scarlet cloth.
Army Service Corps : Edging Jin. whito
tdolh; Inop as for Royal Artillery, but ei dull
cherry brnid.
Anny I Ту Depirrtmenr. : Edging Jin. white
c'nlh; loop as for Royal Artilb-ry, lull of lint
nine lirnid.
I’rovosl-MnrshnI Edging jin. «lute cloth;
loop u* for Royal Artillery, hut of black braid.
In-pectOT of Army Kulvvil» : Edging Jin.
light bint' rlnth
Badges ot rank urn worn «П the -iuitlidvr
end uf the .“Imp.
The mIocvcs »rn ol the urdin.iry style, «ith
O-iucli luo*-e lurn.luick cuffs wilh edging us
stated .ibovc fur uiounli-il officers.
ITi-- body pnrt. is lined with ttidiuii cloth
tn i h vol of 14 incliCH below «eye. Ilie nlaevn*
lire also lined with Uli» Milne niiilenal.
Tho pocket» lire -if -ih-sia There is an in
breaal pocket, 1111 the left aide, which I*
|i at 11 it in.
A sword slit ia put in on left bid. 6j tuelu*
lung, in a slanting position. It. i« joatted in
.ind dnublojitrtched through without cutch.
Tho wnist Indi* nr i cut with 114'11.111 through
Ihe cellin' uf tho under [tortion, and are long
eumgli to gather in < incite» 01 -urpln* doth
when buttoned over,
Tho cnllnr io of the •.liuidaind-fnll variety
(2 Indies by 3J inrhea). It is cut in one
piece, and hoe a doth tub town under the
fall, and made lo button over or button back,
sn that four buttons (ire tow n in I lie tinder
collar
THE SYSTEM.
Sample - t uf measures : Chest 36, wuiirt
32, depth of scye 9. ho waist 17, (till length
48 fur 12 iiichi** сП ground), across bad, 7,
*le»vc 32, acros».ch»»l 8, front shoulder 121.
over ditto 17 Th diet .ind waist measure
are token over the vest, and tip other* over
the jacket.
Add Jin. to waist length, and Jin, lo the
across-chest, front shoulder aid ner shoidder
Square Jine и F I. by О 3
f> to lark 2 ioche*
0 to 3 uie-thtid of depth ( wye.
From 9 to 22 half lire.nl. phi* 4 inches.
o to 17J waist, length.
Add 2J Indies beyond Um line 0 fur ex
[lauding [that anil fly opening
О to 3 nne-twelfth uf died. Haise Jut and
shape the buck nock.
Apply ttio width nr rues back, .aiding 1 inch.
Square I he. Нги* ut back scye, and opting out
Jill, rm slviufder end
(lo kick tlni iicrnxs chest plus, Jin. from 22
ni.d *n find front id scye. Raiw Ijin,
Sweep C from It by tile front slrdalder
mmuntre llw* Ihe back тек.
Muk from 22 tn Jt' 1 meh longer than first
sweep, and so find the ueekpeint
Sweep R triuii H by th» iiver-dtoilldi'i urn
sure loss l-hc iliul.nnce front A to £).
to В |in. lexs lliiin the buck nhuiddei
Rule tho guide Im to Ц from B, and draw
the scye, linllowitip it Jin , and sinking it jiii.
an shown
C to 1) and D tn E oin-twdfth of eltost.
Curve the centre line from D lo 22.
Huie tJinuigh front 22 to liottoui.
Place the vee Jin. out-from centre line, and
take uni. 1 meh at F
F to U 5J inches.
1 to Г. 2 indies.
Square down from 22; go out Jill. И1 waist,
and then rale the centre line through io Ind
li m
The Iwsl method id tiuding the correct spac-
ing of but ton* is lo firsr lueatu tins holes.
.Make F to top hole 5 iuches, and from
centre line to eye of liultoni ho'» 2 inches, plac-
ing the four Iwles each b3 тс)нч apart.
Hnvug done this, the edge can be drawl
1 inch outside, tapering ti- 2J nchos wide at
M N
From 4 In I0J in one-fuurth oi eliest pilli.
IJiil From fliis poiart square down and
overlap Ihe lidcsearii Ijiri,, or make the width
i back 20 inclna, und front 28 nt lln> hot.
tnm.
idd 1 incli. Iiehiw M.
Slk'li details a* tabs puilicU, licit, etc.,
will be gathered from Ihe diiignnii
The bull, .i-i shown by Lhiigrnm 2, is iui
Iwo seauis more Hinn twice the width vic.,
5 hidwei, the seam living arranged along tile
eentrv nf Ute under port.
THE SLEEVE.
nqiiaro lin - 11 26 utid I 5
I) In I. 1 inch.
0 to 5J »«-8 to TI. IMsgratn J
Erutn 1 In 10 2 incite, mere fhun from В to
front pitch, Iliagmui 1,
l> to 5 half 1 to 10.
Bule lliiin 5J to b, and sii»|W lilt- lopsleeve,
lidding 1 "idi id round.
Deduct th width of hack nl 10, and mark
nil the length of «leer» as uouid.
H'iVihg fuinid the length, s)ii[M' ihe Wtom
Uin., and make tho cilft oiie--ixilt of cheat
plus Ijin
Suppres» forearm 1 inch, and measure front
15 to l"J one •,niirth chest plus Ijin-
Msaanre roiuid uialerscye from pitch to
pildi, Diagrnin I, and apply ueu mea*nri-
iicneiii from 5J tn litle 8,
1 billow tin- unrletwlaeve ijin.
The sleeve is cut wilh, ul turn-up, und the
loose cuff 2 sm'lie* deeper than ihe tmishftd
depth.
THE COLLAR.
lint, line II SJj, equal to the nock measure
taken .ruuiid IJ 5 and ' E of Diagram 1.
ttidw 2 inches at the front, and go buck
Mu.
Ctirrve «owing edge
Draw- степсе or drawing line at 2 inches
down from O, and eomplet*- by adding the
fall, 3J ImcIim. us shown.
П1О diugrnm also shu«4 the position of ilw
lab. and how il is buitoncd hack when not. in
use.
Tl±a liint'iiis arc >f metal, and n[ the pattern
(iiilhurised tor the varinW ivganoiits.
fXKJCMtjrOO
THE NEW OVERCOAT EOR UNIVERSAL SERVICE.
Price 5s. Od. Richly Coloured by hand, 10s. 6d.
A MAGNIFICENT PLATE
i 11 ust 1’a.tl ftfi a.11 kinds o>
British Liveries and Civil Uniforms
including
Full Dress Liveries. Ordinary Liveries.
Firemen, Police, Town Crier, Stablemen,
Keepers, Coach-Drivers, Rink and
Theatre Attendant's Uniforms,
Pag'e Boys, Bank Messengers,
Motor Chauffeurs’ Liveries,
<&>e., <&c.
Over Fifty Elaborately Drawn Figures.
Accurate in Detail.
Attractive in Design.
IVTiiKinti a Worh of Art ot tHe Highest Class.
£51zkg- i>y aas1.
As only a limited number will be printed, it should be ordered
without delay.
0Г all Newsagents, Bookstalls, Trimming and Woollen Houses or
direct from the Publishers :
The John Williamson Company Limited, 42, Gerrard St., London, W.
THE “TAILOR AND CUTTER"
RELIABLEMODEL PATTERNS.
GENT'S GARMENTS. LADIES' GARMENTS.
Style Breast DreM Coat, step collar ••• 31 to 50 Drees Coat, roll collar 31 to 50 Dress Lounge step collar 31 to 50 Lounge, 3 seam round front 31 to 50 Lounges with easy scyes 31 to SO Lounges working men’s ••• 31 to 50 Lounges whole bk. for. front 31 to 50 Lounges square shoulders 31 to 50 Morning Coats ••• 31 to 50 Morning Coats with easy scyes 31 to 50 Morning Coats working men’s 31 to 50 Morning Coats square shouldrs 31 to 50 Shooting Coats 31 to 5(1 JJr. ЗллетЗ) tn 5(1 D.B. Reefers 31 to OU FrockCoats ••• 31 to 50 Norfolk Jackets • •• 31 to 50 S-B. S’ D.B Ulster» •• 31 to 50 S.B. & D.B Chester. ... 31 to 50 Raglans ••• •” 31 to 50 Yoked Raglan» — ••• 31 to 50 Livery Coats ... ••• 31 to Г>0 Chauffeurs’ Coats ••• 31 toSl1 Rinking Tunics ••• 31 to 50 Linen or Flannel Shirts ... 31 to 50 Step Collar Vests 31 to 50 No-Collar Vests -• -•• 31 to 50 D.B. Vests ••• ••• 31 to 50 Dress Vests ••• ••• 31 to 50 Clerical Vest* ••• ••• 31 to 50 Cassock Vest* ••• ••• 31 to 50 St vie Waist West End Trousers 31 to 50 Working Men s W.F. ••• 31 to 50 Bell Bottom Trouser* ••• 31 to 50 Riding 1 rousere ••• 31 to 50 Farmers Breeches ••• 32 to 44 Livery Breeches ••• ••• 32 to 44 Baggy Breeches ••• — 32 to 44 Each s. d. 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 in ft/ 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 5 5 5 5 5 5 Each 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 6 Set s, d 10 5 10 6 10 6 10 6’ 10 6 10 6 10 6 10 6 10 6 10 6 10 6 10 6 10 6 10 6 ft/ О 10 6 10 6 10 6 10 6 10 6 W 6 10 6 10 0 10 6 10 6 6 0 6 0 6 0 6 0 6 0 6 0 Set 10 6 10 6 7 6 7 6 4 3 4 3 4 3 Style Breast Each *. d. S.B. Bodice ... ... 29 to 42 10 S B. Jacket, close-fitting -• 29 to 42 10 F.F Covert Coat, semi-fitting 29 to 42 |Q F.F. Jacket, semi-sac 29 to 42 10 F. F. Sac. loose-fitting ••• 29 to 42 10 D.B. Reefer, close bk. semi-front 29 to 42 10 S.B. Norfolk Jacket ... 29 to 42 10 D B. Newmarket, close-fitting 29 to 42 10 S.B Bolero, whole hack 29 tn 42 10 S.B. Eton, close back ••• 29 to 42 10 Princess Robe, S.B. 29 to 42 10 S.B. Ulster, close-fitting ••• 29 to 42 10 F.F. Ulster, serni-sac ••• 29 to 42 10 ЛЛ ..«С, „.I.. 4- Л-.U jn S.B. Inverness • 29 to 42 10 S.B. Step Collar Ve»t 29 to 42 10 S.B. Riding Habit ... 29 tn 42 10 Style Waist Each Close-fitting Train ... 22 to 28 12 Safety Train • •• ••• 22 tn 28 I 2 Apron Train ••• 22 to 28 12 Ride Astride Irain 22 to 28 1 2 Riding Breeches ••• ••• 22 to 28 12 Riding Trousers ••• ••• 22 to 28 12 Circular Skirt, one piece ••• 20 tn 28 12 Five Gore Skirt ... 20 to 28 1 2 Seven Gore Skirt, full 20 to 28 12 Nine Gore Skirt, very full 20 to 28 12 Corselet Skirt, seven gore 20 to 28 1 2 BOYS’ GARMENTS Style Breast Each Lounge Jacket 25 to 31 7 Reefer Jacket — — 25 to 31 7 Eton--. ••• ••• ••• 25 to 31 7 Covert Coat ••• 25 to 31 8 Vest ••• ••• 25 to 31 4 T- r»c ui _ . о Se * 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 t 7 7 Se 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Se 3 3 3 3 2 3 2 t d. 8 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 0 6 6 t 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 t 9 9 9 9 0 9 9
Kntcker Dreecnes Farmers’ Leggings as to 44 5 sizes 4 2 0 irouscrb ••• ••• Knickers ••• w id mi seat 25 to 31seat 6
Goat measures taken over vest. Seam allowances provided.
Every inch a size.
Assorted ©utfits from Customers* 0wn Selection supplied as follows, viz.: Seven
lOd. Patterns, 4s. 3d.; Fourteen, 7s. 6d. j Twenty, 10s. Cd.; Forty=two, £1. Five Is.
Patterns being reckoned as equal to six at 10d., or two at 5d. as equal to one at lOd
Patterns Cut to Special Measures, Price, Vests and Gaiters, 7d.j Coats,
Trousers, &c., Is. 2d.; Skirts, Riding Habits, &c., Is. 8d.
THE TAILOR AND CUTTER
List ot New 4 Standard Works on Cutting
PRACTICAL TAILORING, &c.
Cutter’s Practical Guide: Standard Pnc«- T. & C. Academy System: Standard Price.
Trousers ... to о Trousers, Breeches, Vests ... 6 0
Vests ... 7 6 Coats, Jackets, &c. ... 6 0
Lounges. X’c. ... to о Liveries and Uniforms ... 6 0
Body coats ... to о Ladies’ Garments ... 6 0
Overcoats ... IO о Overcoats and Miscellaneous ... 6 0
Ladies' ... IO о Complete ... 30 0
Liveries ... to о Weekly Numbers, t to 19 ... , 1 0
Clerical Garments ... 7 b The “Tailor and Cutter “ Time Log ... 2 6
Clerical Kobes, die. 7 6 The Tailor's Handbook ... 3 0
Military Garments ... ... 15 о Ladies' Garments & How to Make Them :
Juvenile Garments ... 10 0 fan I. ... 3 6
Defects, Kcinedie-., trying-он ... IO о Part II. ... 3 6
Cutting by Model I’ut'cma ... to о Wainpen's Anatomy ... 2 (>
Shins, Linen Garments, &c. 7 6 Wampeti’s Anthropometry ... to 6
Economical Cutting ... to о Wampen’s System (Tonkin) ... io 0
The “ C.P.G.” Complete 6 0 0 How to Become a Cutter ... ... 3 6
The Game Called Business 2 6 Belfast's System Complete ... I® i
Рони to Point System (Ladies’) ... ... to о The Art of Measuring ... ... 2 ь
L.S.C. St -u in of I In ss Cutting ... 2 6
Pocket Edition I P.G. ... ... 7 6
Reliable System Comp hie ... 12 6
Economical Cutting (Роскп Ei».) 5 о Tailoring by Subdivision 3 *
Practical Tailoring : How to Manage a Busi'less ... 5 0
Part 1,, Trousers — 3 6 “ Г. & C." Order Book and Diary ... I 0
Part 11., Trouser* — 3 t» “ T. & C." Eashiott Plate Album... - 5 °
Part 111., Vests 3 0 The Trimmer’s Guide and Cutting
Instructor ... ... 60
Part IV., Jackets — J 6 Lyrical Interludes ... 2 6
Cutting Room Homme ... ... 6 0 *’ T. and C. Bound Vol for 1908 ... 16 a
Model Pattern Guide ... 3 6 “ Ladies’ Tailor” ditto ... lb a
Polytechnic Coal System 7 о “ Women's Wear" ditto ... 8 □
Breast Measure System 6 о Sixfold System of Cutting 7 6
For Booklet containing complete indei to the various parts of The “ Cutter’s Practical Guide,” send
post card to the Publishers.
The above may be ordered through any bookseller, newsagent, &c.,
or direct from