ME
M
E Y E R L EMO N RECI PES • BU TTER PECA N LAYER C A KE • HOM EM
E MADE
ADE FO O D G I FTS

Louisiana
Authentic Cajun & Creole Cuisine

the
Holiday
issue

Sweet Potato Pecan Tart
PAGE 47

THE SEASON’S
Nov/Dec 2021 vol 24, issue 6
$5.99US $6.99CAN

7

25274 01055

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DISPLAY UNTIL DECEMBER 14, 2021

desserts
C A K E S, P I E S, TA R T S, C O O K I E S + M O R E !

contents
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 | VOLUME 24, ISSUE 6

42

first, you make a

roux.

Spillin’ the Beans

27

29

In Season
Meyer Lemons

Side Dish Shake-Up

louisianacookin.com

Foodways
Feast of the Seven Fishes
by Daniel Schumacher

Light & Fresh

33

Afield & Afloat
Culinary Ghosts of
Holidays Past
by Chef John D. Folse

3

35
37

Chef’s Table
French Countryside Cooking
by Daniel Schumacher

entrées
the main course
427 Very Merry Desserts

Six stunning treats to sweeten up your
holiday season

5

Festive Gifts for Food Lovers

57

New Ways with Beans

Five edible presents you can make for
everyone on your list

Brand-new recipes featuring a Louisiana
pantry staple

65

Elegant Holiday Feast

757

Taking the Cake

A celebratory meal to share with loved
ones this season
Seven of the best spots for cake in the
Bayou State

51

35
lagniappe
a little something extra

79

Sweets
Southern Staple

8

Quick & Easy

83

Local Pantry

Leftover Makeover

Cane Syrup

87

By the Book

9

Swizzle Stick

It’s Gonna Be Good Y’all!
Yuletide Reflections
by Laura Bellucci

95
97

Index & Resources
Lagniappe

November/December 2021

Volume 24, Issue 6

EDITORIAL
EDITOR Caitlin Watzke
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother
COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Laura Bellucci, John D. Folse,
Daniel Schumacher
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY

Mac Jamieson
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER

John O’Hagan
PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jim Bathie, Steve Rizzo,
Stephanie Welbourne Steele
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER

Randy Krause Schmidt

GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Deanna Rippy Gardner
ART DIRECTOR Nancy Miller Heard
SENIOR ST YLIST Sidney Bragiel
ST YLISTS

Courtni Bodiford, Lucy Finney, Mary Beth Jones,
Lily Simpson, Melissa Sturdivant Smith,
Dorothy Walton
TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR

Laura Crandall

FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS

Becca Cummins, Katie Moon Dickerson,
Kathleen Kanen, Megan Lankford,
Vanessa Rocchio, Izzie Turner
TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANTS/PREP COOKS

Audrey Harris, Leah Nicole Perez
CHEFS TO WATCH ADVISORY BOARD

SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST

Delisa McDaniel
Clark Densmore

FOUNDERS

Romney K. and Charley Richard

D I G I TA L M E D I A
MARKETING DIRECTOR

Kristy Harrison

MARKETING COORDINATOR Hannah Crowe
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay
DIGITAL DESIGNER

Meg Bickford, Lyle Broussard, Jeffrey Hansell,
Colt Patin, Nathan Richard

Stephanie Lambert

A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR

Judy Brown Lazenby
IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt
DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL

Alex Kolar

I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S
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REGIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTORS

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MARKETING MANAGER

Lindsay Jones Edmonds

ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE

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For assistance with advertising, please call 888.411.8995.

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CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD/CEO Phyllis Hoffman DePiano
PRESIDENT/COO Eric W. Hoffman
PRESIDENT/CCO Brian Hart
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EXPERTLY
TESTED RECIPES
FEATURING PREMIUM
INGREDIENTS

All recipes in each issue pass
through the hands of the
Louisiana Cookin’ test kitchen.
Each is flavorful and distinctive
and developed with your
unique tastes in mind.
The below products are
partners of Louisiana Cookin’
magazine and used exclusively
in all of our recipes.

THE HOLIDAYS are a special
time of year when we hold our loved
ones closer, and that is even more
important this holiday season as
Louisiana recovers from Hurricane
Ida. At the time this issue was
going to press, Ida had just dealt
our beautiful state a heavy blow,
and looking ahead to this season of
gratitude, I am thankful for the first
responders and community members
who are helping those affected by the
storm.
As you gather with your loved ones
this holiday season, keep this issue
handy for all the recipes you need for your cooking and baking. If you’re
looking for a menu that will wow your dinner guests, check out our Elegant
Holiday Feast, starting on page 65, featuring roasted chicken and hearty side
dishes. Speaking of side dishes, we have plenty to round out your menu,
including Chef John Folse’s Eggplant Rice Dressing (page 34), Blistered
Green Beans with Pickled Peppers (page 27), and Cane Syrup-Glazed
Collard Greens (page 84).
Don’t forget to save room for dessert, because we have plenty of sweet
recipes to celebrate the season, including a showstopping Butter Pecan Cake
and decadent Sweet Potato Pecan Tart (both on page 49). If you’re looking
for the perfect hostess gift or treats to share with family and friends, our
homemade food gifts (starting on page 51) are a great place to start.
We’re also sharing a fresh crop of Meyer lemon recipes (page 29),
delicious ways to cook with Louisiana pantry staples like beans and cane
syrup (pages 57 and 83, respectively), and an easy recipe to use up any
leftover turkey from your holiday dinners (page 81).
As you make your holiday plans and look ahead to 2022, we hope
you leave room for a few of these delicious recipes alongside your family
favorites. From our kitchen to yours, we wish you all a safe, healthy, and
happy holiday season!

ON THE COVER
Sweet Potato Pecan Tart (page 49)
photography by steve rizzo
recipe development by laura crandall
food styling by kathleen kanen
styling by lily simpson

Take Conecuh
home for the holidays.
A FAMILY TRADITION

800-726-0507 • Conecuhsausage.com
Evergreen, ALabama

Since 1947, Conecuh Sausage Company
has been making holidays special by giving
families the tastes and traditions they count
on. Conecuh Sausage is made from the
˃nest cuts of pork, prepared with the Sessions
family’s patented blend of seasonings and
smoked over a pure hickory ˃re in Evergreen,
Alabama. Enjoy smoked sausage, ham, turkey
and bacon with that true Southern ˄avor.

PRESENTED BY CAMELLIA BRAND

NEW & IRRESISTIBLE
THE JAMES 710 LAKE CHARLES
This upscale casual eatery from Ben Herrera
of 121 Artisan Bistro and Calla opened in
mid-April in a building that was once home
to a specialty grocery store. Diners will find a
fun and vibrant menu full of Latin and Asian
influences in dishes like a blue crab bisque
with lemongrass and jalapeño and Brisket
Tacos on handmade tortillas with fresh salsa
verde. thejames710.com

MISS RIVER NEW ORLEANS
Alon Shaya debuted his new restaurant, Miss River, when the
Four Seasons Hotel and Private Residences New Orleans opened
in mid-August. The lobby-level restaurant, which he calls his
“love letter to Louisiana,” displays regional cuisine with a modern,
elevated approach, which is evident in dishes like salt-crusted Gulf
red snapper and clay pot dirty rice with seared duck breast, duck
egg yolk, and scallions. The hotel’s stunning Chandelier Bar is an
excellent spot to start your dinner experience. missrivernola.com

PRODUCT PICK
MICRO PHARMS Christopher Pham started his microgreens farm in his
apartment in 2019 to grow microgreens for himself and his friends, and he eventually
started supplying his greens to restaurants around Baton Rouge and moved his farm
to an indoor facility. He recently expanded his brand with a line of Asian condiments
and fried chicken mix. The lineup includes Fried Chili Oil, Micro Kimchi (made
with microgreens and local radishes), Crunchy Garlic Oil, and Asian Chicken Cajun
Fry Mix. His Asian products can be found at Red Stick Spice, Red Stick Market, and
Calandro’s (which also sells his microgreens). micropharms.com

11

*At this issue’s press time, some businesses were temporarily closed due to the effects of Hurricane Ida.
Readers are encouraged to check websites for complete details and opening information.

louisianacookin.com

JUICY TIDBITS
Peychaud’s Bar New Orleans
The latest cocktail bar from the
Cure Co. team opened this past May
inside the Hotel Maison de Ville. The
historic building at 727 Toulouse St.
was once home to Antoine Amédée
Peychaud, a Creole apothecary from
the French colony of Saint-Domingue
(present-day Haiti) who was famous
for creating Peychaud’s Bitters, which
became a crucial component of the
Sazerac and other classic New Orleans
cocktails. The bar program is led by
Nick Jarrett, formerly of Cure and
the Saint, who is concocting perfectly
executed classics like the Vieux Carre,
Ojen Frappe, and Ramos Gin Fizz.
Tucked away in the French Quarter,
Peychaud’s Bar is great for predinner
cocktails in its elegant indoor space or
back courtyard.
maisondeville.com/peychaud-s

LUNA BAR & GRILL LAFAYETTE
Downtown Lake Charles restaurant and live music venue Luna Bar
& Grill expanded to Lafayette this past summer. Owner Dave Evans
says downtown Lafayette is a great fit for the new location, which is in a
renovated shotgun-style building with exposed brick walls, mimicking
the funky style of the original location. The menu features the Luna Bar
& Grill favorites customers have come to love. lunabarandgrill.com

ADVERTISING

COOKING DRIED BEANS:
3 DIFFERENT METHODS

THE SCOOP

from Camellia Brand
13

louisianacookin.com

There are three bean-approved ways
to cook up delicious, scratch-made
beans, and the method you choose
depends on your personal taste, how
much time you have, and the appliance
you prefer. First, there’s the traditional
stovetop method of simmering beans
in a Dutch oven. Then there’s the slow
cooker method—or the “set it and
forget it” approach. And finally, there’s
the Instant Pot or pressure cooker
method, which cooks beans in a short
amount of time.
Find recipes & how-to’s for all three
methods at camelliabrand.com.

CHEF CHAT
Nestled inside the brand-new Kimpton Hotel Fontenot, the Peacock
Room is an eclectic gathering spot where guests can enjoy snacks, shared
plates, and hand-crafted cocktails. Executive Chef Chris Lusk has created a
playful menu of crave-worthy plates that fits perfectly with the fun-loving
lounge atmosphere, which is decked out in rich jewel tones. We checked in
with Chris to find out more about what to expect at the Peacock Room.

What excites you most about your position at the
Peacock Room? Just the ability to create my own menu.
The concept’s very open. I can do some fun stuff with
food, and there are really no limitations on what I can
do with the food—within reason. I can’t bring in whole
loads of foie gras. That wouldn’t make sense for the bar.
But I can have a very open reign with the menu, which is
a lot of fun for me.

What can we expect from the menu? If you’ve had a
few beverages and you want to have something to go with
your drinks, that’s the kind of food we’re making. It’s very
playful . . . but still, there’s a lot of technique involved.

What is your favorite dish on the current menu?
For appetizers, I just put a new shrimp dish on. It’s Salt,
Pepper & Vinegar Shrimp. It’s a play on Asian saltand-pepper shrimp but also a play on salt-and-vinegar
chips. We make a salt and pepper mixture and we add
powdered vinegar to that, and we serve it with a nuoc
cham pepper jelly with a little bit of micro cilantro. It’s a
fun play on fried shrimp.

15

louisianacookin.com

What can you tell us about the cocktail offerings?
[We’re making] playful cocktails using local ingredients
but also have some more exotic spirits and things that
complement the food. And the food complements the
drinks. . . . I think that they work well together.

For those who haven’t visited, what is the
atmosphere like? It’s one of those things where you
almost have to see it. It’s kind of hard to explain. Once
you walk in the room, you know you’re still in New
Orleans, but it’s got a very interesting vibe. If you saw
a very eccentric house on St. Charles Avenue with
someone who had very eclectic taste and furniture and
art, that’s kind of what we are. It’s like the eclectic house’s
sitting room.

We hear that Thursday nights are pretty happening.
Can you tell us more about that? We have Robin Barnes
performing. We have a lot of locals coming in to see her
play. Good vibes, good acoustics in the room, and she’s in
the lounge area, so you can sit on the other side and eat
and listen to her.

BY T H E BO O K

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explore
Central
Louisiana
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Let’s Get Toasted cocktail and Boudin Wontons from Mariner’s; the Mirror Room Lounge at the Hotel Bentley; gumbo at the Pioneer Pub; lighted displays at

the Natchitoches Christmas Festival; KafƓe-Frederick General Mercantile; Fried Shrimp from Truly Cajun Market at the Main Street Truck Park; Historic Front Street in Natchitoches.

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THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Fish
Dupree with house-made fettuccine at
Quebedeaux Cajun Café; colorful mural
in downtown Alexandria; tamales at
Mi Tierra Restaurante Mexicano; coffee
shop Tamp & Grind is just one of the
local treasures to be found in Downtown
Alexandria.

5][\,W[QV)TM`IVLZQI
O Take in the state’s largest collection of

North Louisiana folk art at the Alexandria
Museum of Art.
O Learn about the Bayou State’s WWII

heritage at the Louisiana Maneuvers &
Military Museum.

O Be one with nature on a stroll through the

nearby Kisatchie National Forest.

O See a working sugarhouse at the 1795

Kent Plantation House and Historic Site.

ADVERTISING

01;<7:1+07<-4*-6<4-A
The Hotel Bentley opened to the public as a grand hotel in 1908, and it
served a particularly important role during World War II. While nearly
half a million troops were being trained at nearby bases and airƓelds,
Dwight D. Eisenhower and George S. Patton would meet at the hotel
while planning the Louisiana Maneuvers that prepared American
troops for the war. About 10 years ago, the Hotel Bentley received a
multimillion dollar renovation and, today, boasts 93 guest rooms,
a restaurant, and the Mirror Room Lounge (where it’s rumored that
D-Day was planned).

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The grand lobby of the Hotel Bentley; Spirits
Food & Friends Spirits Cobb and bar; Quebedeaux Cajun Café’s Surf N Turf, which
pairs a 14-ounce aged rib eye steak with a tower of jumbo Gulf shrimp.

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THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Roasting marshmallows, panko-crusted sea
bass, and the dining room overlooking Sibley
Lake at Mariner’s Restaurant; The Wookie at
Pioneer Pub, which combines house-made
fries, tender brisket, and lots of melted
cheese for ultimate winter comfort; Blackened
RedƓsh Salad at the Pioneer Pub.

5][\,W[QV6I\KPQ\WKPM[6MIZJa
O Experience Steel Magnolias in real life

O Delve into rich history at Cane River

at St. Augustine Church.

Creole National Historical Park.

O See the greats at the Louisiana Sports

O Take a self-guided tour of the

Hall of Fame.

Natchitoches Historic District.

ADVERTISING

;078816/.=6

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: KafƓe-Frederick
General Mercantile; Cane River Lake Christmas
displays; the Café Club Sandwich at Legacy Café;
Legacy Garden community space; Cane River Brewing.

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4-/)+A+).j
You can taste the community spirit while enjoying
lunch at Legacy Cafe in Natchitoches. The café is
part of the Ben D. Johnson Educational Center,
which helps area youths learn crucial skills to prepare them for employment. The
center serves dozens of students each year, and the café serves a variety of Louisiana
staples, including Red Beans & Rice on Mondays and a selection of sandwiches.
The Legacy Corner Market in the café and the adjacent Legacy Garden provide the
neighborhood with much-needed pantry staples, produce, and Louisiana products.

@VisitAcadiaParish
AC A DIA PA R I SH
TOU R I ST COM M ISS IO N

Louisiana

337.783.2108
info@acadiatourism.org
www.acadiatourism.org

DECEMBER 4, 2021

FEBRUARY 19, 2022

C HRISTMAS IN
CROWLEY

COURIR DE MARDI
GRAS DE L’ANSE
MERMENTAU COVE

@crowleymainstreet

cadientoujours.org

FEBRUARY 27, 2022

COURIR DE MARDI
GRAS CHURCH POINT

churchpointmardigras.com

MARCH 1, 2022

CARNIVAL D’ACADIA
DOWNTOWN CROWLEY
crowley-la.com

MARCH 1, 2022

TEE MAMOU IOTA MARDI GRAS
FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL
iotamardigras.com

L I G H T & F R ES H

SIDE DISH
SHAKE-UP

photography by jim bathie | recipe development by izzie turner
food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lily simpson

ALTHOUGH TURKEY OR HAM is the centerpiece of most holiday dinners, the sides often
steal the show. But amidst all the hearty casseroles, creamy mashed potatoes, and baked macaroni
and cheese that abound this time of year, it can be a relief to find a healthy side dish. For a delicious
and satisfying way to lighten up your spread and keep your guests happy, try this recipe for blistered
green beans. Tossed with slivered almonds and pickled peppers, this side dish is packed with
nutrients and will be a hit with everyone.

BLISTERED GREEN BEANS WITH PICKLED PEPPERS
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Pickled peppers add color and tang to this easy side dish while almonds give it additional crunch.
2
½

(12-ounce) packages cleaned green beans
cup coarsely chopped shallot (about 1 large
shallot)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup slivered almonds
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic (about
2 cloves)
1 cup pickled sweet peppers
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley, ground black
pepper

1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line a baking sheet
with foil.
2. In a large bowl, combine green beans, shallot,
oil, salt, and black pepper. Spread in a single
layer on prepared pan.
3. Bake until green beans begin to brown,
about 15 minutes. Sprinkle almonds and garlic
on top. Bake until green beans are blistered and
almonds are toasted, about 15 minutes more. Top
with pickled peppers. Garnish with parsley and
black pepper, if desired. Serve immediately.

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

28

I N S E ASO N

MEYER

LEMONS

photography by jim bathie | recipe development by becca cummins
food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lucy finney

MEYER LEMONS are one of our favorite ways to brighten up winter recipes. Thought to be a cross between a
lemon and a mandarin orange, this flavor-packed citrus is a popular backyard tree in Louisiana. Meyer lemons have
a smooth golden peel that is thinner and has less bitter pith than conventional lemons. They are low in acid, meaning
they are sweeter and significantly less tart than other lemons, making them a welcome addition to sweet and savory
recipes alike. And because their peel is so thin, it can be added raw to a variety of dishes. For a burst of lemon flavor
without the bite, try incorporating Meyer lemons into your cooking this winter with these recipes.

MEYER LEMONCRANBERRY POUND CAKE
MAKES 1 (9X5-INCH) CAKE

A Meyer lemon glaze adds a delicate
sweetness that balances the tartness of
the cranberries in this pound cake.
⅔

cup plus 3 tablespoons unsalted
butter, softened and divided
1⅓ cups granulated sugar
4 large eggs, room temperature
3 teaspoons Meyer lemon zest,
divided
1 teaspoon lemon extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup heavy whipping cream, room
temperature
½ cup fresh cranberries
2½ cups confectioners’ sugar
3 to 4 tablespoons whole milk, room
temperature

29

louisianacookin.com

1. Preheat oven to 325°. Spray a
9x5-inch loaf pan with baking spray
with flour. Line pan with parchment
paper, letting excess extend over sides
of pan.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, beat
⅔ cup butter and granulated sugar
at medium speed until fluffy, 5 to
6 minutes, stopping to scrape sides
of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time,
beating well after each addition. Beat
in 2 teaspoons lemon zest and lemon
extract.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together
flour and salt. With mixer on low
speed, add flour mixture to butter
mixture in three additions alternately
with cream, beginning and ending
with flour mixture, beating just until
combined after each addition. Fold
in cranberries, and spoon batter into
prepared pan.

4. Bake until golden brown and a
wooden pick inserted in center
comes out clean, about 1 hour and
25 minutes. Let cool in pan for
10 minutes. Using excess parchment
as handles, remove from pan, and let
cool completely on a wire rack.
5. In a small microwave-safe bowl,
heat remaining 3 tablespoons butter
on high until melted, 15 to 20 seconds.
Transfer to a medium bowl, and whisk
in confectioners’ sugar, 3 tablespoons
milk, and remaining 1 teaspoon
lemon zest until smooth; add up
to remaining 1 tablespoon milk, if
necessary. Drizzle desired amount
onto cooled pound cake.

CHOOSING
& STORING

MEYER LEMONS
Choose: When choosing
Meyer lemons, look for
smooth, brightly colored skin.
Lemons should feel firm and
heavy for their size.
Store: Refrigerate Meyer
lemons in a sealed plastic bag
for 7 to 10 days.

MEYER LEMON
MARMALADE
MAKES 3 PINTS

If you have lots of Meyer lemons, then
this is the recipe for you! Spread this
marmalade on biscuits for a sweet and
citrusy breakfast treat.
5 pounds Meyer lemons
4 cups water
5 to 5½ cups sugar

1. Using a vegetable peeler, remove
zest of lemons in ½-inch pieces. Place
in a medium bowl, and set aside.
2. Place a cutting board inside a
rimmed baking sheet slightly larger
than cutting board to catch any juice.
Cut ends off lemons. Place a lemon,
cut side down, on cutting board, and
using a sharp knife, cut off pith in wide

strips, going from top to bottom and
following shape of lemon. Slice down
on either side of white membrane to
release each segment. Transfer lemon
segments and any juice caught in
baking sheet to a large bowl. Reserve
seeds and membranes. Repeat with
remaining lemons.
3. In a medium stockpot, bring
4 cups water to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Add zest pieces. Return to
a boil, and cook until zest softens,
2 to 3 minutes. Remove using a
slotted spoon, and place in a small
bowl. Finely cut each zest piece into
thin strips, about 1⁄16 inch thick.
Add to lemon segments. Stir in
5 cups sugar; cover and refrigerate
overnight. (Cover and refrigerate
seeds and membranes as well.)
4. Wrap seeds and membranes in a
square of cheesecloth.

5. In a large stockpot, place lemon
segment mixture; add cheesecloth
bundle. Bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Reduce heat to mediumlow, and simmer, stirring frequently,
until beginning to thicken, 30 to
40 minutes. Taste for sweetness, and
add remaining ½ cup sugar, if desired.
Cook until shiny and an instant-read
thermometer registers 218° to 222°.
Discard cheesecloth bundle. Pour
marmalade into clean, sterilized jars.
Serve chilled.

GROUPER WITH MEYER
LEMON RELISH
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The mild flavor of grouper pairs well with
this zesty olive and walnut relish.
1½
3
¾
½
6
6
¼
3
3
2

pounds grouper, cut into 4 fillets
tablespoons olive oil
teaspoon kosher salt, divided
teaspoon ground black pepper
tablespoons diced red onion
tablespoons diced Castelvetrano
olives
cup walnuts, toasted and chopped
tablespoons thinly sliced green
onion
tablespoons diced shallot
teaspoons Meyer lemon zest

2
1

tablespoons Meyer lemon juice
teaspoon red wine vinegar

1. Preheat oven to 375°.
2. Cut 4 (16x12-inch) rectangles of
parchment paper.
3. In a large bowl, coat fillets with oil,
and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and
pepper.
4. Fold a parchment rectangle in
half crosswise to form a 12x8-inch
rectangle. Open parchment, and
place 1 fillet in middle of one side.
Fold parchment over fillet. Starting
with an unsealed edge, fold ½ inch
of parchment under twice, and press
to seal. Repeat with remaining sides.
Place on a large rimmed baking sheet.
Repeat with remaining
3 parchment rectangles and
remaining 3 fillets.
5. Bake until parchment is
lightly browned and puffed
and fish flakes easily with a
fork, 18 to 20 minutes.

6. In a medium bowl, stir together red
onion, olives, walnuts, green onion,
shallot, lemon zest and juice, vinegar,
and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Serve
grouper with relish.
KITCHEN TIP: Castelvetranos
are salty-sweet, buttery olives
from Sicily that are naturally
bright green. They can be
found in most grocery stores,
either in a jar or at the olive
bar.

AF I E L D & AF LOAT

CULINARY

GHOSTS OF HOLIDAYS PAST
by chef john d. folse | photography by steve rizzo | food styling by vanessa rocchio | styling by lucy finney

AS THE HOLIDAY SEASON rolls around,

dressing, crawfish dressing, and dirty rice made with
chicken livers and gizzards. However, the favorite by far
I cannot help but ponder the culinary ghosts of family
was brême au riz, a.k.a. rice dressing, that was all gussied
Thanksgivings, Christmases, and New Years past. A
cup of gruel may have satisfied Ebenezer Scrooge on that up with eggplant, ground pork, smoked sausage, and
fateful Christmas Eve, but to that dreary meal, I respond, shrimp!
A cadre of desserts tantalized us from the sideboard
“Bah humbug!” We may have been poor chaps growing
as we ate. Awaiting our chubby hands were petits
up on River Road in St. James Parish, but the swamp
gâteaux, jelly rolls, divinity fudge, fruitcake, and la neige,
floor and our gardens provided an abundant pantry of
or floating isles. Papere and Daddy finished the meal
holiday fare that I taste in my memories even today.
with a taste of anisette and a few too many sips of cherry
We celebrated the holidays at Mamere and Papere’s
bounce.
house, where the table became a groaning board of our
Like Clement C. Moore’s “visions of sugar-plums,”
favorite foods. Often, we had wild boar ham, the animal
these culinary specters of long ago dance in my head.
caught and fattened for several weeks for the occasion.
My brother Jerry and I
Daddy and my brother
have recreated these dishes
Bo’boy harvested wild
LIKE CLEMENT C. MOORE’S “VISIONS OF
over the years, and we
turkey from the swamp for
SUGAR-PLUMS,” THESE CULINARY SPECTERS
do a pretty good job. But
the table, and in the spirit
OF LONG AGO DANCE IN MY HEAD.
somehow, these favorite
of brotherly love, we all
holiday foods never quite
fought for the turkey neck.
taste the same without the Cajun patois ringing through
Once the prize was claimed, a feeding frenzy ensued
the house, the clatter of our uncles’ laughter shaking the
over the side dishes, which often upstaged the main
shingles on the rooftop, our aunts gathering like a covey
course. There was cabbage with andouille sausage,
steamed cauliflower with vinegar, green beans with small of quail whispering in the kitchen, and unconditional
love flowing from every crevice in the house. “As dry
potatoes and bits of bacon, sweet peas, candied yams,
and butterbeans with shrimp, but the dressings somehow leaves that before the wild hurricane fly,” so do these
stole the show. There was sweet farre dressing, cornbread delicious memory-makers of long ago.

Chef John D. Folse is an entrepreneur with interests ranging from restaurant development and food manufacturing to catering and culinary education.
Similar recipes can be found in Can You Dig It: Louisiana’s Authoritative Collection of Vegetable Cookery (Chef John Folse & Company).
33

louisianacookin.com

BRÊME AU RIZ
(EGGPLANT RICE DRESSING)

¾

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

½

Serve this eggplant rice dressing as a
main dish or as a side dish for roasted
chicken, pork or beef roast, or turkey.

1. Bring a stockpot of lightly salted

3
1
1
1
½
½
¼
4
2
1
½
½

large eggplants (2½ pounds),
peeled and diced into ¾-inch
cubes
pound ground pork
pound smoked sausage
cup diced yellow onion
cup diced celery
cup diced green bell pepper
cup minced garlic
cups chicken stock
cups long-grain rice
teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon granulated garlic
teaspoon ground black pepper

pound peeled and deveined large
fresh shrimp
cup chopped fresh parsley

water to a boil. Add eggplant, and
cook until tender and fully cooked,
25 to 30 minutes. Drain in a
colander, and set aside.
2. In a Dutch oven, cook pork
over medium-high heat, stirring
occasionally, until well browned,
15 to 20 minutes. Add sausage,
and cook, stirring occasionally, for
10 minutes. Add onion, celery, bell

pepper, and minced garlic; cook,
stirring occasionally, until vegetables
are wilted, 5 to 10 minutes. Add
eggplant and stock, and bring to a
rolling boil. Reduce heat, and add rice,
stirring well. Stir in salt, granulated
garlic, and black pepper. Reduce heat
to low; cover and cook for 30 minutes.
(Do not stir or remove lid during
cooking process.)
3. Add shrimp and parsley to rice
mixture, and stir well. Cover and cook
over low heat until shrimp are pink
and curled, 10 to 15 minutes.

LO U I S IANA
FO O D WAYS

FEAST

OF THE SEVEN FISHES
by daniel schumacher

IF YOU TALK with an Italian American New Orleanian

they often appear alongside more Italian-focused dishes
like marinated anchovies, fried smelt, and salt-cod fritters.
about the Feast of the Seven Fishes, you’re likely to get an
For other creative takes on the meal, New Orleanians
earful of stories of their favorite dishes at the traditional
Christmas Eve fête. Pose the same question to an Italian or can turn to local restaurants that celebrate it during
the holiday season. At GW Fins in the French Quarter,
Sicilian, and the likely answer is that they’ve never heard
Executive Sous Chef Tim Lane has run a 30-person wine
of it. While the American tradition of Feast of the Seven
dinner where they put a Louisiana spin on the classics
Fishes is based on a similar meal still celebrated in Italy,
immigrants took those customs and added their own spin. with dishes like an Italian wedding soup where tuna is
used in the meatballs and Peroni beer-battered smelt over
The American version is an honest-to-goodness
fettuccini with truffles.
feast, while its Italian counterpart—a
“One year I did a seafood
multicourse seafood dinner simply
FEAST OF THE
braciole,” says Tim. “It was
known as La Vigilia—has more
SEVEN
FISHES
MENU
sheepshead or drum that I stuffed
traditional Roman Catholic roots.
on LouisianaCookin.com
with soft boiled egg, seasoned
Until the 1960s, Catholics abstained
breadcrumbs, raisins, and crabmeat.
from meat on Christmas Eve, and
CREOLE CRAB DIP
I rolled it up and seared it and it
many have continued that tradition.
BAKED STUFFED CLAMS
came out awesome. I’m a big fan of
During the period between 1880
SHRIMP WITH FENNEL AND ORANGE
Italian food, so I wanted to bring
and 1920, millions of people from
REDFISH AND SHRIMP COUVILLION
some of those ideas to the surface at
southern Italy and Sicily immigrated
FRITTO MISTO
GW Fins.”
to the United States, many of them
OYSTER SPAGHETTI
Over in the Warehouse
settling in the Crescent City. The
District, the rustic Italian restaurant
availability of local seafood made it
easy (and delicious) to continue their Christmas tradition. Gianna put its stamp on the festive meal. When Gianna
It’s unclear where the “seven” in the feast’s name came Chef de Cuisine Jared Heider imagines the Feast of the
Seven Fishes, “I envision serving big bowls of pasta,”
from, but since the number appears more than 700 times
he says. “All different types of shellfish: mussels, clams,
in the Bible, there’s room for many theories. Some people
even point to the seven hills of Rome. Regardless of where shrimp, lobster. I’m a big fan of rustic whole-fish
preparations where you leave the bones in and pick all the
the name originated, the feast offers Louisianans another
meat off. The sorts of things you’d imagine a feast to be.”
opportunity to be grateful for the local seafood bounty.
Whether Catholic or not, the Feast of the Seven
In the Bayou State, it’s easy to knock out one dish
with seven different bits of seafood in it, but typically, each Fishes gives Louisianans another reason to celebrate the
incredible array of locally sourced seafood, from oysters to
course will feature only one or two. Grilled oysters, hot
finfish and everything in between.
crab dips, and seafood gumbos are common sights, and
Daniel Schumacher is the editor of Taste of the South magazine and a freelance writer who spent eight years eating his way through the Bayou State.
He always enjoys trying a new gumbo, po’ boy, or boudin link.
35

louisianacookin.com

GW FINS’ GULF CIOPPINO
Recipe courtesy of Michael Nelson,
Executive Chef, GW Fins, New Orleans
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS (4 QUARTS)

2
1

1
¼
1
½
2
1
1
2
2
½
½
½
¼

pounds large fresh Louisiana
shrimp, peeled and deveined
(reserve shells)
(2-pound) whole fish (such as
redfish, flounder, drum, or
sheepshead), filleted, skinned,
and cut into 1-inch pieces (reserve
skin and bones)
cup chopped yellow onion
cup extra-virgin olive oil
cup chopped fennel bulb
cup chopped salt cod, rinsed under
running water for 10 minutes
tablespoons thinly sliced garlic
tablespoon chopped shallot
tablespoon tomato paste
teaspoons Creole seasoning*
teaspoons Old Bay seasoning
teaspoon garlic powder
teaspoon onion powder
teaspoon dried oregano
teaspoon crushed red
pepper

⅛
⅓
4

teaspoon ground black pepper
cup white wine
cups crushed slightly drained
canned plum tomatoes
16 fluid ounces clam juice
⅓ cup julienned fresh basil
1 pound fresh Louisiana crabmeat,
picked free of shell
Crusty French bread and grated fresh
Parmesan cheese, to serve
Garnish: fennel fronds

1. In a large stockpot, place reserved
shrimp shells, reserved fish skin and
bones, and barely enough water to
cover; bring to a boil over medium
heat. Turn off heat, and reserve stock
to finish soup.
2. In another large stockpot, cook
onion and oil over medium-low heat
for 5 minutes. Add fennel, and cook
until soft, about 15 minutes.
3. Add salt cod, garlic, and shallot to
onion mixture; cook over medium-

low heat for 5 minutes. Stir in tomato
paste, Creole seasoning, Old Bay
seasoning, garlic powder, onion powder,
oregano, red pepper, and black pepper;
cook for 3 minutes. Stir in wine, and
cook for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping
browned bits from bottom of pot with
a wooden spoon. Add tomatoes and
clam juice; bring to a boil. Reduce heat
to medium-low, and simmer for
30 minutes. (If desired, this part can
be made ahead and refrigerated.)
4. Strain seafood stock through a finemesh sieve into a large bowl.
5. Stir basil into tomato mixture. Add
2 to 4 cups stock to thin soup to
desired consistency. Add shrimp, fish,
and crab; bring to a boil. Reduce heat
to medium-low, and gently simmer for
15 to 20 minutes. Serve with bread and
cheese; garnish with fennel fronds, if
desired.
*Chef Michael likes Paul Prudhomme’s
Seafood Magic.

C H E F’S TAB L E

FRENCH

COUNTRYSIDE COOKING
by daniel schumacher

AFTER COOKING AROUND THE COUNTRY, Lafayette-

Chef William Baxter

Jane’s French Cuisine
618 E. University Ave. • Lafayette
337.534.0442
janesfrenchcuisine.com

born William Baxter returned to his hometown to open Jane’s French
Cuisine last fall. The traditional French restaurant pays homage to his
grandmother Jane Fleniken, who instilled in him a love of French food,
and gives the Francophile population of the Hub City a place to dine on
classic continental staples in a cozy bistro atmosphere.
That concise, seasonal, bistro style is front and center at Jane’s, which
typically features three appetizers, three entrées, and three desserts.
William uses authentic French ingredients and European techniques,
including foie gras terrines and osetra caviar from the Caspian Sea. Some
of the seafood, like a sweet Spanish turbot, is flown in fresh and served
simply en papillote. The parchment bag containing the tender morsels
of fish, seasonal vegetables, and an herbed white wine butter is opened
tableside, treating nearby diners to a rich plume of steam.
“When I traveled to France, I’d go to these upscale bistros and there’s
a chalkboard on the wall showing what they’re selling that day,” says
William. “It’s all what’s fresh and what’s available. . . . At Jane’s, I want to
focus on making each dish the absolute best it can be.”
Other highlights at Jane’s include the house-made baguettes,
traditional French Bouillabaisse (a rustic fisherman’s stew), and braisedand-fried Berkshire Pork Trotter (which William serves with a punchy
sauce gribiche). When available, dishes like Beef Bourguignon, Duck
Confit, and Coquilles St. Jacques (scallops on the half shell) have been
hot sellers. Last year during the holiday season, customers were treated to
a tableside presentation of a whole bûche de Noël, a classic French cake
decorated to resemble a snowy forest scene.
“I’ve tried to make my menu friendly with Louisiana culture,”
William says. “I’m not putting crawfish in my dishes—I’m keeping

Daniel Schumacher is the editor of Taste of the South magazine and a freelance writer who spent eight years eating his way through the Bayou State.
He always enjoys trying a new gumbo, po’ boy, or boudin link.
37

louisianacookin.com

ROAST DORADE

ASPARAGUS A LA
NICOISE

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

38

ABOVE: Fresh berries, meringue, and whipped yogurt
BOTTOM RIGHT: Caspian Sea osetra caviar.

it French French—but I’m thinking about what the
average diner in Lafayette wants to eat. They like
shellfish. They like pork. Dishes with things like that
have really taken off.”
William’s travels around the country included
culinary school in New York City, followed by time in
kitchens around Manhattan. A move to Miami, Florida, to
work with beloved chef Michelle Bernstein rounded out
his traditional French background with some Caribbean
and Spanish flair. From there, William decamped for San
Francisco, California, where he honed his skills at worldrenowned, Michelin-starred restaurants. The passing of
his grandmother sparked the thought of returning to
Lafayette, where he transformed her French antiques shop
into Jane’s.
“My grandmother had a huge influence on me,”
William says. “My family started going to France once or
twice a year with her, so growing up, I got influenced by
French culture and fine French foods.”
Whether diners are sitting at one of the 34 seats
inside, where they are treated to a view of the action with
one of the only open kitchens in town, or outside in the
walled courtyard, Jane’s French Cuisine transports diners
to the French countryside. William notes that the open
kitchen is a source of great intrigue with guests, who
often wander up and speak with him and the other cooks
during service, asking questions and sharing stories.
39

louisianacookin.com

“I didn’t see [myself opening a French restaurant in
Lafayette] until recent years,” Williams says. “There are
French restaurants in New Orleans and one in Baton
Rouge, but Lafayette hasn’t had one in a long time. Being
that a lot of people here have French ancestry and some
even travel to France frequently, I felt like Lafayette
needed something like this.”
Though William may not have seen Jane’s in his
future, Lafayette has embraced the concept with open
arms. Whether it’s top-shelf caviar or a simple and
satisfying fisherman’s stew that brings customers through
his doors, William revels in sharing the flavors of France
with his compatriots from Lafayette.

BOUILLABAISSE

dishes
to try

BEEF BOURGUIGNON
COQUILLES ST. JACQUES
BERKSHIRE PORK TROTTER
DUCK CONFIT

SWEETEN UP YOUR HOLIDAY SEASON WITH OUR COLLECTION OF FESTIVE SWEETS

photography by stephanie welbourne steele | recipe development by laura crandall
food styling by megan lankford | styling by mary beth jones

BUTTER PECAN CAKE
P. 49

CAFÉ AU LAIT CREAM PUFFS
MAKES ABOUT 36

These cream puffs evoke the flavors
of café au lait with a coffee-infused
whipped cream filling.
½ cup unsalted butter, cubed
½ cup water
½ cup whole milk
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
5 large eggs, room temperature
Coffee Cream (recipe follows)
Garish: confectioners’ sugar

1. Preheat oven to 375°. Line
2 rimmed baking sheets with
parchment paper.
2. In a medium saucepan, bring
butter, ½ cup water, milk, granulated
sugar, and salt to a rolling boil over
medium-high heat. Using a wooden
spoon, stir in flour. Cook, stirring
constantly, until a skin forms on
bottom of pan and mixture pulls away
from sides of pan and forms a ball,
1 to 2 minutes. Transfer mixture to
the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment. Beat at low
speed until dough cools slightly, about
30 seconds. Add eggs, one at a time,
beating until combined after each
addition. Batter will be shiny and will
slowly move back together when a
spatula is dragged through it.
3. Transfer batter to a large pastry
bag fitted with a ½-inch round
piping tip. Holding tip perpendicular
to prepared pan and ½ inch above
parchment paper and stationary,
apply even pressure to bag until
batter is about 2 inches in diameter.
Stop applying pressure, and move
tip in a quick circular motion as you
lift away to help prevent a tip from
forming on top. Wet your finger with
water, and press down any tips to
create a smooth top, if necessary.
Repeat with remaining batter, piping
them at least 1 inch apart, until pan is
full (about 18 per pan).

4. Bake, one batch at a time (leaving

COFFEE CREAM

the second out at room temperature),
for 10 minutes. Rotate pan, and bake
until fully puffed and deep golden
brown, 10 to 15 minutes more. Let
cool completely on pan.
5. Using a serrated knife, cut cooled
puffs in half. Place Coffee Cream in
a pastry bag fitted with ½-inch round
piping tip. Pipe into bottom half of
each puff (about 2½ tablespoons
each), and place cut top pieces on top
of piped cream. Freeze until filling is
set (to make it easier to eat), about
20 minutes. (If not serving
immediately, refrigerate until ready
to serve.) Garnish with confectioners’
sugar, if desired. Best served same
day.

MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS

2½ cups cold heavy whipping cream
3 tablespoons ground coffee with
chicory
½ cup confectioners’ sugar

1. In a medium bowl, stir together
cold cream and coffee. Refrigerate
until cream turns light tan, about
1 hour, stirring occasionally.
2. Strain cream mixture through
a fine-mesh sieve into a large
bowl (about 2⅓ cups liquid). Add
confectioners’ sugar, and whisk until
stiff peaks form. Use immediately.
*We used French Market Creole Blend
Ground Coffee with Chicory.

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

44

Yellow cornmeal and Honeycrisp apples
add delightful texture to this easy yet
impressive skillet dessert, and honey
gives it a subtle sweetness.

1
¾
¾
1
¾
½
½
⅓

⅓
2

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a

HONEY-APPLE CORNMEAL
UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
MAKES 1 (10-INCH) CAKE

cup honey
tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted
2 small Honeycrisp apples, cored
and cut into ⅛-inch slices
¾ cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1½ teaspoons lightly packed lemon
zest

teaspoon vanilla extract
cup all-purpose flour
cup fine-ground yellow cornmeal
teaspoon ground cinnamon
teaspoon baking powder
teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon ground nutmeg
cup whole buttermilk, room
temperature

10-inch cast-iron skillet with baking
spray with flour.
2. In bottom of prepared skillet, pour
honey and melted butter. Place apple
slices in a single layer in a concentric
circle on top of honey mixture.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, beat
softened butter and sugar with a

mixer at medium speed until fluffy,
3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape
sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time,
beating well after each addition. Beat
in lemon zest and vanilla.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together
flour, cornmeal, cinnamon, baking
powder, salt, and nutmeg. With mixer
on low speed, gradually add flour
mixture to butter mixture alternately
with buttermilk, beginning and ending
with flour mixture, beating just until
combined after each addition. Spoon
batter into prepared skillet, and
smooth top.
5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
in center comes out clean, 30 to
35 minutes. Let cool in skillet for
5 minutes. Invert cake onto a
serving plate, and let cool
for 10 minutes. Serve
warm or at room
temperature.

åoveł
rec
cipe

SWEET POTATO
PECAN TART
P. 49

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

46

ORANGE GINGER
CHEESECAKE BARS
P. 50

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EGGNOG MOLASSES
SANDWICH COOKIES
MAKES ABOUT 16

With eggnog whipped into the
buttercream filling, these sandwich
cookies are bursting with holiday flavor.
¾
1

cup unsalted butter, softened
cup firmly packed dark brown
sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
¼ cup molasses
2¼ cups all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ cup granulated sugar
Eggnog Buttercream (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line baking
sheets with parchment paper.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, beat
butter and brown sugar at medium
speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add
egg, beating until well combined. Add
molasses, beating until well combined.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together
flour, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon,
salt, baking powder, and nutmeg.
With mixer on low speed, gradually
add flour mixture to butter mixture,
beating just until combined. Cover
and refrigerate for 1 hour.
4. In a shallow bowl, place granulated
sugar.
5. Using a 1½-tablespoon springloaded scoop, scoop dough, and roll
into smooth balls. Roll in granulated
sugar. Place about 2 inches apart on
prepared pans.
6. Bake until bottoms are golden,
8 to 10 minutes. Let cool on pans for
5 minutes. Remove from pans, and let
cool completely on wire racks.

7. Place Eggnog Buttercream in a
pastry bag fitted with ⅓-inch open
star piping tip. Pipe buttercream
onto flat side of half of cookies. Place
remaining cookies, flat side down, on
top of buttercream. Refrigerate until
buttercream is set, about 15 minutes.
EGGNOG BUTTERCREAM
MAKES ABOUT 3½ CUPS

1
5½
⅓
½

cup unsalted butter, softened
cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
cup cold prepared eggnog
teaspoon ground nutmeg

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, beat
butter with a mixer at medium speed
until creamy. With mixer on low
speed, gradually add confectioners’
sugar alternately with cold eggnog,
beating until smooth after each
addition. Add nutmeg, beating until
well combined.

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

48

BUTTER PECAN CAKE
MAKES 1 (8-INCH) CAKE

(photo on page 43)
Serve up a slice of holiday cheer with
this delicious pecan-studded layer cake.
1¼ cups unsalted butter, softened
and divided
2½ cups chopped pecans
1½ cups granulated sugar
½ cup firmly packed light brown
sugar
4 large eggs, room temperature
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
3 cups cake flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup whole milk, room temperature
Brown Sugar Frosting (recipe follows)
Garnish: pecan pieces

1. In a large skillet, melt ¼ cup butter
over medium heat. Add chopped
pecans, and cook, stirring frequently,
until fragrant and golden, about
10 minutes. Pour onto a rimmed
baking sheet, and let cool completely.
2. Preheat oven to 350°. Line
bottoms of 3 (8-inch) round cake
pans with parchment paper; spray
with baking spray with flour.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, beat
sugars and remaining 1 cup butter
at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of
bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating
well after each addition. Beat in vanilla.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together
flour, baking powder, and salt. With
mixer on low speed, gradually add
flour mixture to sugar mixture
alternately with milk, beginning and
ending with flour mixture, beating just
until combined after each addition.
Stir in 1½ cups toasted pecans. Divide
among prepared pans.
5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
in center comes out clean, 25 to
30 minutes. Let cool in pans for
10 minutes. Remove from pans, and
let cool completely on wire racks.
6. In another medium bowl, fold
together 2 cups Brown Sugar Frosting
and remaining 1 cup toasted pecans.
7. Place 1 cooled cake layer on a
cake plate, and evenly spread half
of frosting mixture on top, leaving

49

louisianacookin.com

a ½-inch border around edges. Top
with second cake layer, and spread
remaining frosting mixture on top.
Top with remaining cake layer.
Reserve 2 cups Brown Sugar Frosting
for piping. Spread remaining Brown
Sugar Frosting on top and sides of
cake. Place reserved 2 cups Brown
Sugar Frosting in a pastry bag fitted
with a ½-inch open star piping tip.
Pipe a border around top edge of cake
as desired. Garnish with pecan pieces,
if desired.

BROWN SUGAR FROSTING
MAKES ABOUT 7 CUPS

1½ cups firmly packed light brown
sugar
1 cup egg whites (about 8 egg
whites), room temperature
⅔ cup granulated sugar
2⅔ cups unsalted butter, cubed and
softened
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
½ teaspoon kosher salt

1. In the heatproof bowl of a stand
mixer, whisk together brown sugar,
egg whites, and granulated sugar by
hand. Place bowl over a saucepan
of simmering water. Cook, whisking
occasionally, until sugars completely
dissolve and an instant-read
thermometer registers 120° to 130°.
2. Carefully return bowl to stand
mixer. Using the whisk attachment,
beat at high speed until bowl is cool
to the touch, 10 to 12 minutes. Add
butter, about 2 tablespoons at a
time, beating until combined after
each addition. Beat in vanilla and salt.
Frosting will be shiny and smooth.

2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
2 large eggs, room temperature
Pecan Crust (recipe follows)
Vanilla Bean Meringue (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 325°.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, beat
cream cheese at medium speed until
smooth and creamy, about 2 minutes,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add
sweet potato, brown sugar, flour,
vanilla bean paste, cinnamon, ginger,
salt, and cloves; beat at medium-low
speed just until combined. Increase
mixer speed to medium, and beat
until well combined, about 2 minutes,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add
eggs, one at a time, beating until
well combined after each addition
and stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
(Mixture will be on the thicker side.)
Spoon into Pecan Crust; using a small
offset spatula, spread into an even
layer.
3. Bake until top of filling is set and
an instant-read thermometer inserted
in center registers 155°, 32 to
35 minutes. Let cool completely
in pan on a wire rack; cover and
refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up
to overnight.
4. Carefully remove tart from pan;
transfer to a serving plate. Spoon and
spread Vanilla Bean Meringue onto
tart, spreading to edges of crust.
Using a handheld kitchen torch,
carefully brown meringue as desired.
Serve immediately.

SWEET POTATO PECAN TART
MAKES 1 (9½-INCH) TART

PECAN CRUST

(photo on page 46)

MAKES 1 (9½-INCH) CRUST

In this twist on the classic sweet potato
pie, a Pecan Crust is filled with a sweet
potato-cream cheese mixture and
topped with vanilla meringue.

3
¼

5

ounces cream cheese, room
temperature
1¼ cups mashed cooked peeled
sweet potato
½ cup firmly packed light brown
sugar

¼
¾
½

cups pecan pieces*
cup firmly packed light brown
sugar
cup unsalted butter, melted
teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a
9½-inch fluted round removablebottom tart pan with baking spray

with flour.
2. In a large bowl, stir together all
ingredients until well combined; using
a small straight-sided measuring cup,
press crumb mixture into bottom and
up sides of prepared pan.
3. Bake until set, lightly golden brown,
and fragrant, 18 to 25 minutes. Let
cool completely on a wire rack.
*We used Cane River Pecan Company
Pecan Pieces.

VANILLA BEAN MERINGUE
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

1
5
¼
¼
1½

cup sugar
egg whites, room temperature
teaspoon cream of tartar
teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoons vanilla bean paste

1. In the heatproof bowl of a stand
mixer, whisk together sugar, egg
whites, cream of tartar, and salt. Place
over a saucepan of simmering water,
and cook, stirring frequently, until
sugar dissolves and an instant-read
thermometer registers 120° to 130°.
2. Carefully return bowl to stand
mixer. Using the whisk attachment,
beat at high speed until bowl is room
temperature and glossy, stiff peaks
form, 7 to 10 minutes. Beat in vanilla
bean paste. Use immediately.

1

cup sour cream, room
temperature
⅓ cup heavy whipping cream, room
temperature
Garnish: chopped crystallized ginger,
orange zest curls

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a
13x9-inch baking pan with foil, letting
excess extend over sides of pan. Spray
bottom with baking spray with flour.
2. In a large bowl, stir together
ground gingersnaps, ⅓ cup sugar,
melted butter, and 1 tablespoon
orange zest. Firmly press mixture into
bottom of prepared pan.
3. Bake until fragrant and set, 10 to
15 minutes. Let cool slightly in pan
on a wire rack. Position oven rack in
bottom third of oven. Reduce oven
temperature to 325°.
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, beat
cream cheese at medium speed until
smooth and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
Add flour, vanilla bean paste, salt,
remaining 2 cups sugar, and remaining
1 tablespoon orange zest; beat at low
speed just until combined. Increase
mixer speed to medium, and beat

until well combined, 1 to 2 minutes,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
Add eggs, one at a time, beating just
until combined after each addition.
Add sour cream and heavy cream;
beat at medium-low speed until well
combined, 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to
scrape sides of bowl.
5. Spray sides of prepared pan with
baking spray with flour. Pour cream
cheese mixture onto prepared crust,
spreading into an even layer with a
small offset spatula.
6. Bake until edges are set, top looks
dry, and center is almost set, 45 to
55 minutes. Let cool completely
in pan on a wire rack. Cover and
refrigerate overnight.
7. Using excess foil as handles,
remove from pan. Using a hot, dry
knife, cut into bars (trimming outside
edges, if desired). Garnish with
chopped ginger and orange curls, if
desired.

ORANGE-GINGER
CHEESECAKE BARS
MAKES 12

(photo on page 47)
Ginger and orange add a hint of spice
and sweetness to these cheesecake bars.
3

cups finely ground gingersnap
cookies
2⅓ cups sugar, divided
4½ tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted
2 tablespoons lightly packed
orange zest, divided
4 (8-ounce) packages cream
cheese, softened
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste
½ teaspoon kosher salt
5 large eggs, room temperature

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

50

FIVE EDIBLE PRESENTS YOU CAN MAKE FOR
EVERYONE ON YOUR HOLIDAY LIST

photography by mac jamieson | recipe development by laura crandall, vanessa rocchio, and izzie turner
food styling by vanessa rocchio | styling by sidney bragiel

SALTED BOURBON
CARAMEL SAUCE
P. 53

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

52

PISTACHIO WHITE
CHOCOLATE SHORTBREAD
COOKIES
MAKES 20

A combination of salted pistachios and
white chocolate gives these cookies a
delicious sweet and salty flavor.
1
⅓
¼
¼
1
1
2
⅓

cup unsalted butter, softened
cup confectioners’ sugar
cup granulated sugar
teaspoon kosher salt
egg yolk, room temperature
teaspoon vanilla extract
cups all-purpose flour
cup finely chopped roasted
salted pistachios
1 (10-ounce) bag white chocolate
melting wafers, melted
according to package directions
Garnish: finely chopped roasted
salted pistachios
53

louisianacookin.com

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, beat
butter at medium-low speed until
smooth, about 1 minute. Add sugars
and salt, and beat until smooth and
well combined. Add egg yolk and
vanilla, and beat until combined. Add
flour in two additions, beating just
until combined after each addition.
Beat in pistachios.
2. Turn out dough onto a large piece
of parchment paper. Using parchment
to help, roll dough into a 2-inchwide log. Wrap in parchment, and
refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours.
3. Preheat oven to 325°. Line a
baking sheet with parchment paper.
4. Using a chef’s knife, trim ends of
dough log. Slice crosswise ½ inch thick.
Place 1 inch apart on prepared pan.
5. Bake until bottom edges of cookies
are golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Let
cool on pan for 5 minutes. Remove

from pan, and let cool completely on
a wire rack.
6. Line a baking sheet with
parchment paper. Dip cooled cookies
into melted white chocolate, covering
about one-third to half of each cookie
and letting excess drip off. Place on
prepared pan, and immediately garnish
with pistachios, if desired. Refrigerate
until white chocolate is set, about
15 minutes. Store in an airtight
container for up to 1 week.

SALTED BOURBON
CARAMEL SAUCE
MAKES 5 (8-OUNCE) JARS

(photo on page 52)
This boozy caramel would be divine
spooned over ice cream or cheesecake.
1½ cups heavy whipping cream
2 teaspoons flaked sea salt

3
½
1
¼

cups sugar
cup plus 1 tablespoon water,
divided
cup unsalted butter, cubed and
softened
cup bourbon

1. In a small saucepan, cook cream
and salt over low heat, stirring
frequently, until salt dissolves and
mixture is steaming. (Do not boil.)
Remove from heat, and set aside.
2. In a large stockpot, combine sugar
and ½ cup water, being careful not to
splash sides of pot. (Mixture should
be the consistency of wet sand.)
Bring to a boil over medium heat,
stirring gently to help sugar dissolve;
brush sides of pot with remaining
1 tablespoon water. (Do not stir once
it starts to boil). Increase heat to high,
and cook until light amber colored.
Remove from heat, and slowly add
warm cream mixture. (Be careful; it
will steam.) Stir with a long-handled
wooden spoon or spatula. Stir in
butter, a few pieces at a time, until
combined. Stir in bourbon. Let cool
for 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Pour sauce into hot, clean
tempered glass jars. Let cool to room
temperature. Cover with lids, and
refrigerate until ready to deliver.
Notes: It is important to use a large
stockpot because of the volume of
caramel sauce. You want the surface
area to help the caramel cook evenly
and quickly. The high sides are
important when you pour in the cream
mixture and it steams up.
The jars need to be made of tempered
glass and need to be really warm or hot
before filling to help prevent breaking.

CREOLE CARAMEL
POPCORN
MAKES ABOUT 16 CUPS

This easy popcorn recipe hits all the right
notes—sweet, salty, spicy, and crunchy!
6
⅔
1
2
½
1
½

tablespoons vegetable oil
cup popcorn kernels
cup pecan halves*
teaspoons Creole seasoning*
teaspoon kosher salt
cup firmly packed light brown
sugar
cup unsalted butter

¼
½

cup cane syrup
teaspoon baking soda

1. In a 3-quart saucepan, heat oil
over medium-high heat. Add corn
kernels in an even layer. Cover pan
tightly with lid, and when kernels
begin to pop, reduce heat to low; shake
pan until rapid popping has almost
completely stopped, about 30 seconds.
Transfer popcorn to a large bowl, and
add pecans. Sprinkle with Creole
seasoning and salt.
2. In a large saucepan, combine brown
sugar, butter, and cane syrup. Cook
over medium heat, stirring occasionally,
just until bubbles form around edges

of pan; cook, stirring occasionally, for
5 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir
in baking soda. (Mixture will foam.)
Evenly pour over popcorn mixture.
Gently stir to coat.
3. Preheat oven to 200°.
4. Divide popcorn mixture between
2 large rimmed baking sheets.
5. Bake for about 1 hour, stirring
every 15 minutes. Let cool completely
on pans on a wire rack. Store in
airtight containers for up to 1 week.
*We used Cane River Pecan Company
Pecan Halves and Tony Chachere’s
Original Creole Seasoning.

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

54

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PICKLED BUTTERNUT
SQUASH
MAKES 5 PINTS

This Pickled Butternut Squash
recipe is one of the best ways to
preserve the flavors of fall.
1

butternut squash, peeled,
seeded, and cut into 1-inch
cubes (about 2½ cups)
2 tablespoons kosher salt
10 sprigs fresh thyme
5 dried bay leaves
5 slices fresh ginger
3 cups apple cider vinegar
2 cups water
1½ cups sugar
2 teaspoons fennel seed
1 teaspoon mustard seed
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

1. In a large bowl, toss together squash
and salt. Let stand at room temperature
for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Drain excess
moisture.
2. Divide thyme, bay leaves, and
ginger among 5 glass pint jars; fill with
squash, packing tightly, leaving 1 inch
of space at top.
3. In a large stockpot, combine
vinegar, 2 cups water, sugar, fennel
seed, mustard seed, peppercorns,
and red pepper; bring to a boil over
medium heat. Cook until sugar
dissolves completely, 6 to 8 minutes.
Strain to remove spices, if desired,
reserving liquid.
4. Divide vinegar mixture among jars,
screw on lids, and let cool to room
temperature. Refrigerate until ready
to use or for up to 6 months.

KITCHEN TIP: Serve this
Pickled Butternut Squash in a
salad with spiced pecans and
goat cheese, or add to a cheese
and charcuterie board.

CRAWFISH BOIL SEASONING
MAKES 3 CUPS

This flavorful spice blend is ideal for
stovetop crawfish boils.
¼
2

cup lemon zest (about 8 lemons)
cups kosher salt

¼
6
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1

cup cayenne pepper
dried bay leaves, crumbled
tablespoons garlic powder
tablespoons paprika
tablespoon onion powder
tablespoon crushed red pepper
tablespoon dried oregano
tablespoon dried thyme
tablespoon dry mustard
tablespoon dried dill weed

1. Preheat oven to 350°.
2. On a rimmed baking sheet, spread
lemon zest.
3. Bake until dried, 3 to 5 minutes,
stirring halfway through baking. Let
cool.
4. In a medium bowl, stir together
lemon zest, salt, and all remaining
ingredients until combined.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONS: In
a large stockpot, combine 4 quarts
water, ½ cup Crawfish Boil Seasoning,
and 4 lemon halves. Bring to a boil.
Add 5 to 6 pounds live crawfish, and
gently stir. Cook for about 5 minutes.
Remove from heat, and let stand
for 5 minutes. Drain, and serve
immediately.

KITCHEN TIP: For a cute gift,
portion this seasoning blend into
jars, tie with ribbon, and include
serving instructions on a gift tag.

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

56

NEW
Ways with Beans
FROM CREAMY DIPS TO HEARTY BURGERS,
A LOUISIANA PANTRY STAPLE IS TAKEN TO THE NEXT LEVEL
WITH BRAND-NEW RECIPES

F

ew dishes are as synonymous with New Orleans as red beans and rice.
In the Crescent City, eating red beans and rice on Mondays is a beloved
culinary tradition that began in the days when laundry was done by
hand. This dish didn’t require much attention and made use of ingredients
that were already in the average Louisiana kitchen, making it a simple and
inexpensive recipe to prepare on wash day, which happened to fall on Monday
for most families. Today, red beans and rice is still a staple in New Orleans,
and farther west, in Acadiana, white beans and rice is commonly found on
plate lunch menus. Inspired by Louisiana’s love of beans, we created some
fresh new dishes using dried and canned beans. Whether simmered with
tortellini for a comforting soup, blended into a smooth dip for a tasty snack,
or slow-cooked with bacon for a hearty side dish, this bounty of recipes will
feed your appetite for this tried-and-true pantry staple.

photography by steve rizzo | recipe development by vanessa rocchio
food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lucy finney

CREOLE BLACK
BEAN BURGERS
P. 64

GARLIC WHITE
BEAN DIP
P. 64

SLOW-COOKED BEAN
MEDLEY
MAKE 10 CUPS

This flavorful side dish is easy to make
ahead for any parties you attend during
colder months.
1
1
1
1

cup dried white cannellini beans
cup dried kidney beans
cup dried black-eyed peas
(32-ounce) container chicken
broth
1 red bell pepper, chopped
(about 1 cup)
1 green bell pepper, chopped
(about 1 cup)
1 medium sweet onion, chopped
(about 1 cup)
½ cup chopped celery
⅓ cup firmly packed light brown
sugar
1 dried bay leaf
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons dry mustard
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
4 slices thick-cut bacon
⅓ cup tomato paste
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley,
ground black pepper

1. In a large bowl, add all beans, peas,
and water to cover by 2 inches; let
stand overnight.
2. Drain beans mixture, and place in a
5-quart slow cooker. Add broth, bell
peppers, onion, celery, brown sugar,
bay leaf, salt, dry mustard, and black
pepper. Top with bacon slices. Cover
and cook on high until beans are
tender, about 4 hours.
3. Add tomato paste and vinegar to
beans mixture. Cover and cook for
2 hours.
4. Discard bay leaf and bacon. Stir
in parsley. Garnish with parsley and
black pepper, if desired.

RED BEAN AND TORTELLINI
SOUP
MAKES ABOUT 12 CUPS

Filled with smoky andouille sausage,
creamy beans, and cheesy tortellini, this
soup is perfect for chilly nights.

1
1

cup sliced sweet onion
medium green bell pepper,
chopped (¾ cup)
⅓ cup chopped celery
2 (32-ounce) containers chicken
broth
2 (15.5-ounce) cans dark red
kidney beans, rinsed and drained
1 (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes
2 teaspoons Creole seasoning
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
1 (20-ounce) package refrigerated
three-cheese tortellini
Croutons, to serve

1. In a Dutch oven, heat oil over
2
1

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
(12-ounce) package andouille
sausage, sliced

medium-high heat. Add andouille,
and cook until golden brown, about
6 minutes. Add onion, bell pepper,

and celery; cook, stirring frequently,
until vegetables are softened, about
8 minutes.
2. Add broth, beans, tomatoes,
Creole seasoning, thyme, and oregano
to andouille mixture; bring to a boil.
Reduce heat, and simmer, stirring
occasionally, for about 25 minutes.
3. Add tortellini to soup, and cook for
4 to 5 minutes. Serve with croutons.
KITCHEN TIP: Make homemade
croutons by tossing 4 cups ¾-inchcubed French bread and 1 tablespoon
olive oil together on a rimmed
baking sheet. Bake in a 375° oven
until lightly browned, about
10 minutes, stirring twice. Let cool
completely.

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

62

ROASTED FISH WITH
CANNELLINI BEANS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This dish is simple enough to make on a
busy weeknight yet elegant enough to
serve to company.
1

pound dried white cannellini
beans*
8 cups water
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
8 ounces chopped pancetta
1 medium yellow onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth,
divided
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup chopped roasted red pepper
2 teaspoons Creole seasoning
4 (4-ounce) grouper fillets
8 ounces tomatoes on the vine
1 lemon, sliced and halved
Crusty bread, to serve

1. In a large bowl, place beans and
8 cups water; cover and let stand
overnight. Drain, and rinse beans.
2. Preheat oven to 375°.
3. In a 12-inch enamel-coated castiron braiser, heat 2 tablespoons oil
over medium heat. Add pancetta,
onion, and garlic; cook, stirring
frequently, until pancetta is crispy,
about 12 minutes. Add beans, 3 cups
broth, rosemary, salt, and black
pepper. Cover loosely with foil.
4. Bake for 1½ hours, adding up to
1 cup remaining broth if needed.
Discard rosemary sprigs. Stir in
roasted red pepper. Leave oven on.
5. Sprinkle Creole seasoning all over
fish. Add fish, tomatoes on the vine,
and lemons to braiser. Drizzle with
remaining 2 tablespoons oil.
6. Bake, uncovered, until fish is
tender, about 15 minutes. Let stand
for 10 minutes. Serve with bread.
*We used Camellia Brand Cannellini
Beans.

Garlic Confit (recipe follows)
2 (15.5-ounce) cans white
cannellini beans, drained
2 teaspoons lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 teaspoon Creole seasoning
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Pita chips, sliced cucumber, radicchio,
carrots, and mini sweet peppers,
to serve
Garnish: chopped fresh oregano,
pomegranate arils, lemon zest,
Creole seasoning

1. Using a slotted spoon, remove
garlic cloves from Garlic Confit,
reserving oil.
2. In the work bowl of a food
processor, add garlic cloves, ¼ cup
reserved oil, beans, lemon zest and
juice, oregano, Creole seasoning, and
salt; purée until smooth, adding more
reserved oil if necessary to smooth it
out. Serve with pita chips, cucumber,
radicchio, carrots, and sweet peppers.
Garnish with oregano, pomegranate
arils, lemon zest, Creole seasoning,
and remaining reserved oil, if desired.

GARLIC CONFIT
MAKES ¾ CUP

½ cup olive oil
8 to 10 cloves garlic (peeled)

1. Preheat oven to 250°.
2. In a small baking dish, place oil and

1. Reserve ½ cup beans. In the work
bowl of a food processor, combine
remaining beans, lentils, egg, sweet
onion, paprika, and Creole seasoning.
Pulse just until combined, 3 to
4 times. Transfer to a medium bowl.
Stir in reserved ½ cup beans and
bread crumbs. Using your hands,
shape mixture into 6 (½-cup) patties.
2. Heat a cast-iron skillet over
medium heat. Add half of oil, and
cook half of patties until charred,
about 5 minutes per side, reducing
heat as necessary. Repeat with
remaining oil and remaining patties.
Serve on buns with Rémoulade Sauce,
lettuce, and red onion.
*We used Fillo’s Peruvian Lentils and
Tony Chachere’s Original Creole
Seasoning.
Note: If lentils and sofrito are not
available, ½ cup cooked lentils may be
substituted.

RÉMOULADE SAUCE

garlic, making sure oil covers garlic.
3. Bake until garlic is golden in color,
about 1½ hours. Let cool for about
30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for
up to 2 weeks.

½
1
1
1
1
1
¼

CREOLE BLACK BEAN
BURGERS

1. In a medium bowl, stir together all

MAKES 6 BURGERS

ingredients until smooth.

(photo on page 59)
These vegetarian burgers are spiced
with Creole seasoning and served with
Rémoulade Sauce for Louisiana flair.

GARLIC WHITE BEAN DIP
½

(photo on page 60)
Baking garlic in oil yields incredibly
tender and sweet cloves that can be
used in a variety of ways.

teaspoon Creole seasoning*
cup panko (Japanese bread
crumbs)
6 tablespoons olive oil
Hamburger buns, Rémoulade Sauce
(recipe follows), curly leaf lettuce,
and sliced red onion, to serve

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

2
MAKES 3 CUPS

1
1

1
1
1

(15.5-ounce) cans seasoned black
beans, drained
cup cooked lentils and sofrito*
(see note)
large egg
tablespoon grated sweet onion
teaspoon smoked paprika

cup mayonnaise
tablespoon Creole mustard
tablespoon capers
tablespoon chopped green onion
clove garlic, grated
teaspoon hot sauce
teaspoon smoked paprika

Elegant

HOLIDAY FEAST
GATHER YOUR LOVED ONES FOR A CELEBRATORY MEAL
FEATURING A SHOWSTOPPING MAIN, FRESH SIDES,
AN EASY DESSERT, AND A BUBBLY DRINK

W

hatever the occasion, these crowd-pleasing recipes will make for a party your guests
won’t soon forget. Instead of turkey or ham, try a whole chicken cooked with lemon,
garlic, and olive salad for a main dish that’s packed with flavor. Plus, we’ve included
fresh takes on appetizers and side dishes, like Pickled Shrimp, roasted Brussels sprouts with
spicy peppers, and salad with crispy andouille sausage and a bright lemon vinaigrette. And we
couldn’t forget dessert and drinks! Freshly baked Danish and fizzy pomegranate mojitos will
keep the holiday cheer going all night long.
photography by jim bathie | recipe development by laura crandall and vanessa rocchio
food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by sidney bragiel

ROASTED LEMON AND
GARLIC SPATCHCOCK CHICKEN
P. 73

PICKLED SHRIMP
P. 73

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

68

POMEGRANATE
MOJITO COCKTAIL
P. 74

69

louisianacookin.com

SPICY BRUSSELS SPROUTS
MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This flavorful side dish cooks in just 30 minutes, making holiday entertaining
a breeze.
2
1
½
4
3
½
¼

pounds Brussels sprouts,
trimmed and halved
Fresno chile, seeded and thinly
sliced
medium sweet onion, thinly
sliced
cloves garlic, thinly sliced
tablespoons olive oil
teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Lightly
spray a rimmed baking sheet with
cooking spray.
2. In a large bowl, toss together
all ingredients until well combined
and sprouts are lightly coated.
Arrange in a single layer on
prepared pan.
3. Bake until lightly browned,
25 to 30 minutes, turning once
or twice during baking.

LEMON, KALE,
AND ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE
SALAD
P. 73

MINI
CHOCOLATE
DANISH
P. 73

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

72

ROASTED LEMON AND
GARLIC SPATCHCOCK
CHICKEN
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

(photo on page 67)
Roasted lemons and garlic impart
massive flavor to this recipe while olive
salad adds a unique finishing touch.
1

(3- to 4-pound) whole chicken,
giblets discarded
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
6 cloves garlic, smashed
3 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
3 lemons, sliced
1½ cups drained olive salad*
Garnish: fresh thyme sprigs

1. Preheat oven to 425°. Lightly spray
a rimmed baking sheet with cooking
spray.
2. Place chicken breast side down
with legs toward you. Using sturdy
scissors, cut along either side of
backbone to remove it, cutting
through rib bones as you go. Open
chicken out, and turn over. Flatten
breastbone with the heel of your hand
so the meat is all one thickness. Rub
chicken with oil.
3. In a small bowl, combine lemon
zest and 1 teaspoon salt. Lift breast
skin of chicken, and spread zest
mixture on breast. Rub chicken with
remaining ½ teaspoon salt and pepper.
Sprinkle garlic and thyme leaves on
chicken. Place, breast side up, on
prepared pan. Arrange lemon slices
around chicken.

4. Bake for 45 minutes. Top with
olive salad, and bake until an instantread thermometer inserted in
thickest portion registers 165°, about
15 minutes more. Serve with roasted
lemons. Garnish with thyme sprigs, if
desired.
*We used Boscoli Italian Olive Salad.

PICKLED SHRIMP
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

combined. Cover and refrigerate
overnight, stirring occasionally.
Discard bay leaf. Serve with crackers.

LEMON, KALE, AND
ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE SALAD
MAKE 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

(photo on page 71)
The light and bright lemon vinaigrette
stands up well to the sturdy kale and
smoky andouille sausage in this salad.

(photo on page 68)
½
This appetizer is the perfect way to kickstart your next party. Let it marinate in
the fridge overnight, and it’ll be ready to
serve when guests arrive.
1½
6
4
2

cups olive oil
cloves garlic, crushed and divided
cups water
tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons
Creole seasoning, divided
2 pounds large fresh shrimp, peeled
and deveined (tails left on)
1 to 2 serrano chiles, seeded and
sliced
1 Fresno chile, seeded and halved
½ medium red onion, cut into
slivers
½ cup pineapple juice
⅓ cup fresh lime juice
¼ cup fresh parsley leaves
¼ cup Champagne vinegar
1 fresh bay leaf
½ teaspoon celery seed
Crackers, to serve

1. In a medium saucepan, cook oil and
4 garlic cloves over medium heat until
garlic is golden brown. Remove from
heat. Transfer to a large bowl. Let cool
completely.
2. In a large stockpot, bring 4 cups
water and 2 tablespoons Creole
seasoning to a boil over high heat.
Remove from heat, and add
shrimp; let stand until shrimp
are pink and begin to curl.
Drain. (Do not rinse).
Add to oil mixture.
Add all chiles, onion,
pineapple juice, lime
juice, parsley, vinegar,
bay leaf, celery seed,
remaining 2 teaspoons
Creole seasoning, and
remaining 2 garlic
cloves, stirring until

¼
1
½
¼
1
½
½
⅛
½
1
¼

(16-ounce) loaf French bread,
cut into 1-inch cubes
cup plus 2 tablespoons
extra-virgin olive oil, divided
cup grated fresh Parmesan
cheese, divided
teaspoon crushed red pepper
cup fresh lemon juice
teaspoon Creole mustard
teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon grated garlic
teaspoon ground black pepper
pound andouille sausage,
chopped and cooked
(4-ounce) container fresh baby
kale
cup chopped roasted salted
almonds

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Lightly
spray a rimmed baking sheet with
cooking spray.
2. In a large bowl, toss together bread
cubes and 2 tablespoons oil. Add
½ cup cheese and red pepper, tossing
to coat. Place on prepared pan.
3. Bake until crispy, 10 to 12 minutes,
turning occasionally. Let cool.
4. In a small bowl, whisk together
lemon juice, mustard, salt, garlic,
black pepper, and remaining ¼ cup oil
until thoroughly combined.
5. In a large bowl, place andouille,
kale, almonds, and croutons. Top with
dressing, tossing until combined.
Sprinkle with remaining ½ cup cheese.

MINI CHOCOLATE DANISH
MAKES 18

Filled with bittersweet chocolate and
topped with tart raspberries, these
pastries are a sweet way to round out
your meal.
1

(17.3-ounce) package frozen puff
pastry, thawed (2 sheets)

1
4
1

large egg, lightly beaten
ounces cream cheese, softened
tablespoon unsalted butter,
softened
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 egg yolk, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1½ tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate,
melted, plus more for drizzling
Confectioners’ sugar
36 small raspberries

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Line a
baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Gently unfold 1 puff pastry sheet,
and place on a lightly floured surface.
Trim edges to create a 9-inch square.
Cut into 9 (3-inch) squares.
3. Fold 1 square in half to form a
triangle, with the fold toward you.
Using a sharp paring knife and
starting ¼ inch from right side of
triangle, cut from base of triangle
to ¼ inch below top point. Starting
¼ inch from left side, cut from base
of triangle to ½ inch below previous
cut. Unfold square; brush with egg.
Fold cut left side over center, and
place point in line with opposite inside
point. Fold cut right side over center,
and place in line with opposite inside
point. Place on prepared pan. Repeat
with remaining squares, placing at
least 1 inch apart on prepared pan.
Refrigerate until firm, 15 to
20 minutes. Repeat with remaining
puff pastry.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together
cream cheese and butter until
smooth. Whisk in granulated sugar,
egg yolk, and vanilla. Whisk in flour
and salt until smooth. Whisk in
melted chocolate. Spoon filling into
center of each puff pastry (a little
less than 1 tablespoon each), making
sure to keep as much as possible off
outside edges.
5. Bake until puffed and deep golden
brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool
on pans for 5 minutes. Remove from
pans, and let cool completely on
wire racks. Before serving, drizzle
with melted chocolate, and dust with
confectioners’ sugar. Top each Danish
with 2 small raspberries.

POMEGRANATE MOJITO
COCKTAIL
MAKES 1 SERVING

(photo on page 69)
Pomegranate juice and mint-infused
simple syrup give this drink a festive feel.
Lime wedge and pomegranate arils,
to serve
¼ cup rum
¼ cup pomegranate juice
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons Mint Simple Syrup
(recipe follows)
Cold sparkling mineral water, as
needed
Garnish: fresh mint sprig

1. In an 8-ounce glass, place lime
wedge and pomegranate arils. Fill
glass halfway with ice.
2. In a shaker with ice, place rum,
pomegranate juice, lime juice, and
Mint Simple Syrup. Shake lightly to
chill and combine. Pour into prepared
glass, and add desired amount of cold
sparkling water. Garnish with mint
sprig, if desired.

MINT SIMPLE SYRUP
MAKES 1 CUP

⅔
⅔
1

cup sugar
cup water
ounce fresh mint leaves

1. In a small saucepan, combine sugar
and ⅔ cup water. Cook over mediumlow heat, stirring frequently, just
until sugar dissolves. Remove from
heat.
2. Tear mint leaves, and place
in a heatproof bowl. Pour
simple syrup over leaves, and
let cool to room temperature,
stirring occasionally. Cover
and refrigerate until ready to
use, at least 30 minutes. (The
longer the mint leaves stay in
the syrup, the stronger the mint
flavor will be.)

KITCHEN TIPS: To make a
bigger batch of this cocktail
(8 servings), place fresh mint
leaves, lime wedges, and
pomegranate arils in the bottom
of a pitcher. Add 2 cups rum,
2 cups pomegranate juice,
1 cup lime juice, and 1 cup
Mint Simple Syrup. Cover and
refrigerate until cold or ready to
serve. Prepare glass as directed
in step 1, pour into prepared
glass, and finish with cold
sparkling water and mint sprig.
To change this to a mocktail,
replace the rum with an equal
amount of pomegranate juice or
simply add more sparkling water.
Pomegranate juice will bring
forward the pomegranate flavor
and have a richer color, while
adding sparkling water will make
it lighter and bubblier.

TAKING THE CAKE
7 MUST-TRY CAKE BAKERIES

I

f you have a craving for cake that just won’t quit, Louisiana has
lots of fantastic cake makers to help satisfy your sweet tooth. From
showstopping layer cakes (including New Orleans’ beloved doberge
variety) and cupcakes to cookie cakes and chiffon cakes, Louisiana
bakeries have it all. With so many incredible cakes to choose from, we
set out to narrow down a few of our local favorites. Whether you have a
special occasion to celebrate or simply a craving to satiate, check out these
bakeries and reach out to us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter to let us
know your favorites.

1

WISHING TOWN BAKERY CAFE
Metairie

1

Wishing Town Bakery Cafe started as a home bakery for
Vivi Zheng’s customized cakes, and she and her husband,
Kevin, opened their bakery and dim sum parlor in 2018
to keep up with demand. They moved last spring to a
more central location in Metairie, where customers can
find savory dumplings and soups in addition to Vivi’s
impressive, whimsical cakes. Wishing Town is known
for its mille crêpe cake (with extra-thin layers of cake
and cream filling) and Wishing Cakes (chiffon cake with
Chantilly cream topped with a variety of fruit, flowers,
macarons, and more). wishingtown.com

*At this issue’s press time, some businesses were temporarily closed due to the effects of Hurricane Ida.
Readers are encouraged to check websites for complete details and opening information.

2

BUTTERCUPS CUPCAKES
Shreveport

When she was pregnant with her first
daughter, Kim Hand developed a sweet tooth
while watching the Food Network’s Barefoot
Contessa. Inspired by the show, she started
baking from scratch and bringing cupcakes
to friends and coworkers. Demand for her
cupcakes grew so much that she opened
Buttercups Cupcakes in 2009. The bakery
offers 12 flavors each day, including staples
like red velvet (the flavor that won Kim the
taste challenge on Cupcake Wars in 2011)
and seasonal flavors like gingerbread.
Buttercups also offers layer cakes (by order
only) and macarons. ilovebuttercups.com

3

DEBBIE DOES DOBERGE
New Orleans & Kenner

Owned by Charlotte McGehee and Charles
Mary IV, Debbie Does Doberge offers
exciting twists on the classic New Orleans
layer cake. What started as a home bakery
has expanded to include two storefronts:
Bakery Bar in New Orleans’ Lower
Garden District and Debbie on the Levee
in Kenner’s Rivertown. At both locations,
customers can choose from regular flavors
and seasonal flavors available as whole
8-inch cakes, by the slice, or miniature
“Dobites.” The bakery now ships 8-inch
cakes nationwide through Goldbelly.

debbiedoesdoberge.com

4

LOLA
Covington

Since Nealy and Keith Frentz opened LOLA in
2006, the restaurant has become a favorite for
its Louisiana-inspired fare but also for Nealy’s
scratch-made cakes. The hummingbird cake
has been a staple since LOLA opened, but
in recent years, Nealy started offering “party
cakes” when customers began requesting
birthday cakes. Nealy’s cakes are available
in a variety of flavors (including Funfetti) and
are decorated with Fancy Sprinkles and glitter.
Each layer is soaked in milk for an extra-moist,
rich texture. Nealy also recently started making
single-serving “snack cakes” for customers
looking for a smaller taste of cake. lola.kitchen

2 4

3

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

76

5

6

7
5

COUNTERSPACEBR
Baton Rouge

From her bakery on Perkins Road in
Baton Rouge, Sarah Joy Hays whips up
everything from cookies and whoopie
pies to cakes and brownies. The business
started as a pop-up at MidCity Makers
Market, where Sarah Joy’s cookies became
so popular that she decided to open her
own bakery in 2019. Sarah Joy is known
for creating custom cakes, including layer
cakes available in a variety of flavors (such
as chocolate buttermilk and red velvet)
and cookie cakes made with the same
dough used for her famous chocolate chip
cookies. counterspacebr.com
77

louisianacookin.com

6

THE CUPCAKE
COLLECTION New Orleans

7

BAYOU SAINT CAKE
New Orleans

New Orleans native Mignon Francois
started the Cupcake Collection with
$5 left to feed her family. Word of her
baking talents got around her new home
of Nashville, Tennessee, and a neighbor
hired her to make 600 cupcakes at
$1 a piece. By the end of the week, she
had $600 and was inspired to open
her bakery. Between its two locations
in New Orleans and Nashville, the
business has sold more than 5 million
cupcakes in flavors such as strawberry
and the ever-popular sweet potato.

Like many small businesses born out of the
COVID-19 pandemic, Bronwen Wyatt’s Bayou
Saint Cake “just kind of happened.” At the time,
the pastry chef was on furlough from her job at
Bacchanal, where she had been making cakes
from time to time. Customers reached out to her
via Instagram requesting cakes, and business
picked up enough that she decided to make it
her full-time job. Bronwen’s beautifully designed
cakes are works of art, often decorated with her
signature frosting “squiggles” and fresh, edible
flowers. Flavors change monthly when preorders
open and are inspired by seasonal ingredients.

thecupcakecollection.com

instagram.com/bayousaintcake

S W E E TS

SOUTHERN STAPLE
photography by jim bathie | recipe development by becca cummins | food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lily simpson

BUTTERMILK PIE is an old-fashioned Southern dessert that uses simple ingredients to create an extraordinary
result. Made with staples such as flour, sugar, butter, eggs, and buttermilk, this classic has a flaky crust and a rich,
custardy filling that turns golden brown on top. Buttermilk pie typically includes vanilla extract and lemon juice or
zest in the filling, but we decided to give this version some Bayou State flavor with the addition of satsuma zest. Its
sweet yet tangy taste and light texture make this pie a fantastic addition to your holiday dessert table.

SATSUMA BUTTERMILK PIE
MAKES 1 (9-INCH) PIE

In this take on the classic Southern pie,
satsuma zest replaces the traditional
lemon zest.
Buttermilk Pie Dough (recipe
follows)
2 cups sugar
¼ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup unsalted butter, melted and
cooled slightly
4 large eggs, room temperature
1 tablespoon satsuma zest
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup whole buttermilk, room
temperature (see note)
Garnish: sweetened whipped cream,
satsuma segments

1. Position oven rack in bottom third
of oven. Preheat oven to 400°.
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll
Buttermilk Pie Dough into a 12-inch
circle (about ⅛ inch thick). Transfer
to a 9-inch pie plate, pressing into
bottom and up sides. Trim excess

79

louisianacookin.com

dough to ½ inch beyond edge of
plate, if needed. Fold edges under,
and crimp, if desired. Freeze for
15 minutes.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together
sugar, flour, and salt. Whisk in
melted butter, eggs, satsuma zest,
and vanilla until combined. Slowly
add buttermilk, whisking just until
combined. Pour into prepared crust.
4. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce
oven temperature to 325°, and
bake until edges are set, center still
jiggles slightly, and an instant-read
thermometer inserted in center
registers 200°, about 35 minutes
more. (Pie will be puffed when
removed from oven but will deflate
slightly as it cools.) Let cool
completely on a wire rack. Refrigerate
until ready to serve. Serve chilled
or at room temperature. Garnish
with whipped cream and satsuma
segments, if desired.
Note: Buttermilk will settle and
separate over time, so make sure to
shake your carton of buttermilk before
using.

BUTTERMILK PIE DOUGH
MAKES 1 (9-INCH) CRUST

1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed
4 to 5 tablespoons cold whole
buttermilk

1. In the work bowl of a food
processor, place flour and salt; pulse
until combined. Add cold butter, and
pulse until mixture is crumbly and
butter is pea-size. With processor
running, add 4 tablespoons cold
buttermilk in a slow, steady stream
just until dough comes together.
(Mixture may appear crumbly. It
should be moist and hold together
when pinched.) Add up to remaining
1 tablespoon cold buttermilk only if
needed.
2. Turn out dough, and shape into a
disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and
refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Dough may be refrigerated for up to
3 days or frozen for up to 2 months.

Q U I C K & E ASY

LEFTOVER MAKEOVER
photography by steve rizzo | recipe development by izzie turner | food styling by vanessa rocchio | styling by lucy finney

IF YOU’VE EVER WONDERED what to do with extra turkey from Thanksgiving or Christmas—other than
making turkey gumbo—we have the perfect way to make sure none of it goes to waste. With the help of chopped
vegetables, tasso, and refrigerated piecrust, this turkey pot pie comes together easily, and you’ll probably have most of
the ingredients on hand from your holiday prep. With a meal this flavorful, it’s easy to get excited about leftovers!

LEFTOVER TURKEY POT PIE
MAKES 1 (10-INCH) PIE

Leftovers never tasted so good! Use
any remaining turkey from your holiday
dinner in this comforting pot pie.
¼
¼
½
¼
¼
1
1
2
½

cup unsalted butter
cup all-purpose flour
cup diced yellow onion
cup diced carrot
cup diced celery
cup chopped green bell pepper
teaspoon finely chopped garlic
cups chicken broth
cup heavy whipping cream

1½
½
1
½

cups shredded cooked turkey
cup tasso
teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
(14.1-ounce) package
refrigerated piecrusts
Garnish: fresh parsley sprig

1. Preheat oven to 400°.
2. In a large skillet, melt butter
over medium heat. Add flour, and
whisk until smooth. Cook, whisking
constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in

onion, carrot, celery, bell pepper, and
garlic; cook until vegetables are tender,
5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in broth until
well combined. Whisk in cream. Stir
in turkey, tasso, and Worcestershire;
cook until bubbly and thickened, 10 to
12 minutes.
3. Cover turkey mixture with piecrust,
and cut slits to vent.
4. Bake until crust is golden brown
and filling is bubbly in center, 35 to
45 minutes. Let cool for 20 minutes
before serving. Garnish with parsley,
if desired.

www.laeggs.com

Louisiana Department of
Agriculture & Forestry
Mike Strain, DVM Commissioner

Egg & Potato Skillet
Prep Time: 5 minutes | Cook Time: 15 minutes | Makes: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
4
thick slices turkey bacon (4 oz.), chopped
1
medium baking potato, diced (1⁄2-inch)
8
EGGS, beaten
1⁄2
cup pico de gallo OR chunky salsa
1⁄2
cup shredded smoked Cheddar cheese (2 oz.)
6
flour OR whole wheat tortillas (8-inch),
warmed, OPTIONAL

2. Pour eggs over mixture in skillet. As eggs begin to set,
gently pull the eggs across the pan with an inverted turner,
forming large, soft curds. Continue cooking—pulling, lifting
and folding eggs—until thickened and no visible liquid egg
remains. Do not stir constantly.
3. Stir in pico de gallo; heat through. Sprinkle with cheese.
Serve with tortillas, if desired.

ENJOY
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Cook bacon in large nonstick skillet over medium heat until
edges begin to brown. Pour off drippings. Add potato; cook
and stir until potato is tender and browned and bacon is crisp,
6 to 8 minutes.

LO CAL PAN T RY

CANE SYRUP
photography by steve rizzo | recipe development by izzie turner
food styling by vanessa rocchio | styling by dorothy walton

CANE SYRUP is a time-honored tradition in
south Louisiana. Made by grinding sugarcane
and boiling down the juice in open kettles until
it reduces, the result is a thick syrup with a sweet,
slightly smoky flavor. The main producer of cane
syrup is C.S. Steen Syrup Mill in Abbeville, which
has been making the sticky, sweet liquid since
1910, when founder Charley Steen saved his cane
crop from a winter freeze by making syrup. Since
then, Steen’s signature yellow can has become
a staple of many south Louisiana pantries.
In recent years, smaller-batch producers like

Poirier’s have burst on the scene with their own
syrups. Cane syrup is often used as a table syrup for
drizzling on pancakes or biscuits, and it is also the
star of baked goods like the gâteau de sirop, a classic
Cajun syrup cake. In addition to sweet recipes, cane
syrup adds a lovely sweetness and depth to savory
dishes like collard greens or pork.

CANE SYRUP-GLAZED
COLLARD GREENS
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

These collard greens are cooked with
cane syrup and apple cider vinegar for
a sweet yet tangy flavor.
1
1
1½
1
¼

tablespoon vegetable oil
(12-ounce) country ham, chopped
cups sliced white onion
tablespoon finely chopped garlic
teaspoon kosher salt

¼
1
2
1
¼
1

teaspoon crushed red pepper
(12-ounce) bottle dark beer*
pounds chopped stemmed
collard greens
(32-ounce) container
low-sodium chicken broth
cup cane syrup*
tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1. In a large stockpot, heat oil over
medium heat. Add ham, and cook
until crispy, 5 to 10 minutes. Add
onion, garlic, salt, and red pepper;

cook until onion is softened, 7 to
10 minutes. Add beer, and stir,
scraping browned bits from bottom
of pan with a wooden spoon. Increase
heat to high; add greens and broth,
and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and
simmer until greens are tender, about
45 minutes.
2. Stir cane syrup and vinegar into
greens mixture. Cook until liquid is
reduced by half, 20 to 30 minutes.
*We used Abita Amber Lager and
Steen’s Cane Syrup.

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2021

84

PEAR AND CRANBERRY
CANE SYRUP TOAST
MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Flavored with cane syrup and topped
with fresh cranberry sauce and pears,
this toast is sure to sweeten up any
breakfast.
1
½
¼
¼
1
½
1

cup fresh cranberries
cup plus 1 tablespoon cane syrup,
divided
teaspoon kosher salt, divided
cup unsalted butter, softened
teaspoon ground cinnamon
teaspoon vanilla extract
loaf challah or brioche bread, cut
into 1-inch-thick slices

1
1

cup crème fraîche
Bosc or Anjou pear, halved,
cored, and thinly sliced
Garnish: ground cinnamon

1. In a small saucepan, combine
cranberries, ½ cup cane syrup, and
⅛ teaspoon salt; cook over medium
heat until cranberries burst and juices
are thickened, 6 to 8 minutes.
2. In a small bowl, stir together
butter, cinnamon, vanilla, remaining
1 tablespoon cane syrup, and
remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt until
smooth.

3. Preheat oven to 400°.
4. In a 13x9-inch baking dish, place
bread in a single layer. Evenly spread
butter mixture on both sides of all
bread slices.
5. Bake until butter is melted
and toast is golden brown, 10 to
12 minutes, turning halfway through
baking. Top toast with crème fraîche,
pear, and cranberry mixture. Garnish
with cinnamon, if desired. Serve
immediately.

CRAWFISH ÉTOUFFÉE
Makes 6 to 8 servings

One of the Bayou State’s most iconic dishes, crawfish
étouffée is simply crawfish tails smothered in butter and
the holy trinity of Cajun and Creole cooking: onion, bell
pepper, and celery.
¼
¼
1
1

cup unsalted butter
cup all-purpose flour
medium sweet onion, chopped
large green bell pepper, seeded
and chopped
½ cup chopped celery
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups seafood stock
1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning
1 tablespoon paprika
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon celery seeds
1 (16-ounce) package cooked
crawfish tails
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
Hot cooked rice, to serve
Garnish: sliced green onion

1. In a medium Dutch oven, heat butter over medium-low
heat; whisk in flour until smooth. Cook, stirring occasionally,
until roux is golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Increase heat to medium. Add yellow onion, bell pepper,
and celery; cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are
crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic; cook until fragrant,
about 1 minute. Gradually whisk in stock until smooth. Stir in
Cajun seasoning, paprika, salt, and celery seeds. Reduce heat
to medium-low; cover and cook until slightly thickened, about
15 minutes.
3. Stir in crawfish tails and parsley; simmer for 1 minute. Serve
over hot cooked rice. Garnish with green onion, if desired. 

The flavor and quality of Louisiana crawfish tails
can’t be beat, so be sure to check the label when
purchasing frozen tails. They stay good for up to
1 year in your freezer, making them an easy
addition to dishes like this Crawfish Étouffée.

Louisiana Crawfish Promotion & Research Board

Visit us at crawfish.org.

BY T H E BO O K

IT’S GONNA BE
GOOD Y’ALL
BRENDA GANTT shared her first cooking video on Facebook early on
during the COVID-19 pandemic to teach others from her church how to
make biscuits. The post garnered millions of views in just two weeks, and
today, she shares videos demonstrating homestyle recipes with 2.5 million
followers on her Cooking with Brenda Gantt Facebook page. This November,
the seasoned home cook, bed-and-breakfast owner, and grandmother from
Andalusia, Alabama, will publish her first cookbook, It’s Gonna Be Good
Y’all: A Collection of Family Recipes & Stories (83 Press, 2021).
As in her videos, Brenda’s genuine love of cooking, faith, and family is
evident throughout the pages of her book, which includes 100 of her favorite
recipes alongside personal stories and spiritual advice. Several recipes are
accompanied by step-by-step photos and Brenda’s “kitchen wisdom” to
help readers achieve the best results in their own kitchens. Readers will find
recipes for down-home Southern classics and comfort food, including Fried
Chicken, Cracklin’ Cornbread, Pecan Pie, and the Buttermilk Biscuits that
launched her to Facebook fame.
Additionally, she shares recipes from the Cottle House, the bed-andbreakfast she has owned and operated for 25 years and where she cooks and
serves breakfast for the guests each morning. Sausage & Egg Casserole, Fried
Pies, and Sawmill Gravy are just a few highlights. From breakfast to dinner
and everything in between, It’s Gonna Be Good Y’all is filled with comforting
recipes and engaging stories to inspire readers to cook for their loved ones
and create cherished memories around the table.

CRACKLIN’ BREAD

louisianacookin.com

CHOCOLATE FUDGE PIE

HAM POT PIE

PEANUT BRITTLE

1. In a boiler or large sauce pan, bring

Recipe from It’s Gonna Be Good Y’all
(83 Press, 2021)

sugar, syrup, and ½ cup water to a
rolling boil. Add peanuts and bring
to a hard boil. Stir constantly until
syrup becomes hard and brittle.
When a little bit is placed in a cup of
tap water, it should turn hard. Take
the syrup out of the water and test
it to make sure it’s crunchy. If not,
continue boiling.
2. When ready, quickly stir in baking
soda and immediately pour into a
large and completely buttered baking
pan that has sides, making sure that
the sides are buttered, too. Let cool
completely. Break into pieces.

“My mother always made this, and
I’ve made it for years. I love cooking
this each fall when it starts to get cool
outside.”—Brenda Gantt
2
1
½
2½
2

cups sugar
cup corn syrup
cup water
cups shelled raw redskin peanuts
(leave skins on)
teaspoons baking soda

BRENDA’S
KITCHEN WISDOM
If you have children, make sure they
are gone or asleep when you make
this. You do not want them in the
kitchen while you’re cooking peanut
brittle. It is very hot, and you cannot
leave it. This dish requires full attention!
Also, be sure your pan is very well
greased. If not, you will be cleaning
candy off your pan from now to
eternity! In fact, you might as well go
ahead and throw that pan away!

ORDER YOUR COOKBOOK TODAY!
Facebook sweetheart and
everyone’s favorite
grandmother, Brenda Gantt
knows lingering around the
supper table creates an
unbreakable bond. Family
recipes are prepared and
served straight from her heart.
Packed with personal stories,
helpful instructions, and
photos of every recipe, the
Brenda Gantt It’s Gonna Be
Good Y’all cookbook is an
invitation to tie on your favorite
apron and join Mrs. Brenda in
her kitchen.
Follow Brenda Gantt for all of
her inspiring videos:
Facebook: Cooking with Brenda Gantt
Instagram: @cookingwithbrendagantt

Creamy Chocolate Pie

Sweet Potato Casserole

Turnip Green Soup

2 WAYS TO ORDER
833-839-6871

BRENDAGANTTBOOK.COM

83P
PBG2
B 1
BG

S W I Z Z L E ST I C K

YULETIDE
REFLECTIONS

by laura bellucci | food photography by jim bathie | food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lily simpson

WHEN I OPENED
BELLE ÉPOQUE in
2019, it was everything
you would expect from
an opening on Bourbon
Street. Needless to say,
during the 2019 holiday
season, I spent the
majority of my hours in
the Old Absinthe House
building. We had a
Christmas tree set up to
brighten up the second
floor, and I eventually
got curious and started
to infuse the Christmas
tree needles into absinthe. By Twelfth Night, we had
some fantastically Christmas-ized absinthe and began
experimenting with it in cocktails.
This is an absinthe-heavy iteration of a Waldorf
cocktail. I would like to dedicate this drink to my service
industry family in New Orleans. It has been an extremely
taxing two years since Christmas 2019. The momentum
of Mardi Gras 2020 ground to a sudden halt and left
us reeling in the terror of the COVID-19 pandemic. I
remember locking up Belle Époque in March with no
idea what lay ahead. Suddenly, everyone I knew was
struggling. Time became fluid and unreal. A year passed.
Beautiful businesses closed, ones we had worked out of
and frequented. We lost friends, not only to COVID-19
but also to the other unexpected consequences of the
pandemic. Then the spring and summer of 2021 arrived,
and we went from the terse anxiety of stagnation to the

confusing process of rushing to open.
After all of this, the city and state faced down
Hurricane Ida, and the long road to recovery is daunting.
I saw everyone I know rise to the occasion yet again, with
service mentally redirected toward providing food and
support to the direct local community. The people of New
Orleans pulled together to feed and care for each other and
then, when things began to stabilize, reached out beyond
to other affected parishes. This is no surprise, of course, but
still a stunning and beautiful example of why we are such a
strong city.
New Orleans, like all cities, is still in the process of
recovering. Although there will be reverberations from the
pandemic that last for years, we are grinding our corroded
gears into motion. I’m not going to attempt to squeeze a
larger meaning from the situation in this tiny article. But
I am going to say that I am deeply proud to be part of
this specific industry in this specific city. The community
work I saw during this pandemic has humbled me and
strengthened my understanding of what it means to live in
New Orleans. I hope nothing goes back to the way it was
before. I hope we continue the fight daily to honor, uplift,
and support every single member of the service industry,
from musicians to butchers to delivery drivers to rock star
barbacks. I hope city regulations begin to reflect the value
of this community.
There’s no other company I would have preferred to
keep over the past 730 days than the magnificent humans
of New Orleans. They shine brighter in chaos. They carry
the good times on them like Mardi Gras beads and always
make space for hope. So, I lift this very strong drink to
them and hope they are not working too much this holiday.
Cheers, y’all. . . . See you on Twelfth Night.

Laura Bellucci, a history fanatic, concept developer, and cocktail creator, has been working in the spirits industry for more than 10 years.
91

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GHOSTS OF CHRISTMAS
PRESENT

CHRISTMAS TREE ABSINTHE
MAKES 1 CUP

MAKES 1 SERVING

1½ ounces Sazerac Rye
½ ounce Christmas Tree Absinthe
(recipe follows)
¼ ounce China-China
¼ ounce port
2 dashes orange bitters
Garnish: candied orange wedge

1
1

cup absinthe
tablespoon Christmas tree needles*, gently rinsed
with cool water and vinegar (see disclaimer)

1. In a large jar, combine absinthe and needles. Let
stand for 10 days. Strain through a cheesecloth.
*Fresh rosemary may be substituted.

1. In a mixing glass, combine rye,
Christmas Tree Absinthe, ChinaChina, port, and orange bitters. Stir
until combined. Pour into a serving
glass, and garnish with an orange
wedge, if desired.

DISCLAIMER: It is imperative to use
organic needles only from pine, fir, or
spruce trees that have not been sprayed
with chemicals or pesticides. Needles from
other types of trees, like cedar and cypress,
are poisonous, and yew trees (which
look like Christmas trees) are extremely
poisonous. Make sure you know which
plant you are using before ingesting.

LOUISIANA ATTRACTION OF THE YEAR
th

Anniversary

DISCOVER NEW ORLEANS
HISTORY & HAUNTS
504.943.8820 | WWW.NEWORLEANSCARRIAGES.COM

Recipe Index
Appetizers
Garlic White Bean Dip, 64
Pickled Shrimp, 73

Beverages
Christmas Tree Absinthe, 93
Ghosts of Christmas Present, 93
Pomegranate Mojito Cocktail, 74
Mint Simple Syrup, 74

Pecan Crust, 49
Pistachio White Chocolate Shortbread
Cookies, 53
Satsuma Buttermilk Pie, 79
Sweet Potato Pecan Tart, 49
Vanilla Bean Meringue, 50

Meat, Poultry, and Game

Pear and Cranberry Cane Syrup Toast, 85

Leftover Turkey Pot Pie, 81
Roasted Lemon and Garlic Spatchcock
Chicken, 73

Desserts

Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments

Breads

Brown Sugar Frosting, 49
Butter Pecan Cake, 49
Buttermilk Pie Dough, 79
Café au Lait Cream Puffs, 44
Coffee Cream, 44
Creole Caramel Popcorn, 54
Eggnog Buttercream, 48
Eggnog Molasses Sandwich Cookies, 48
Honey-Apple Cornmeal Upside-Down
Cake, 45
Meyer Lemon-Cranberry Pound
Cake, 29
Mini Chocolate Danish, 73
Orange-Ginger Cheesecake Bars, 50
Peanut Brittle, 89

BellaCopper
Solid Copper Heat
Diffusers &
Defroster Plates

∙ Even heating - no hot spots!
∙ Fantastic as a defroster plate!
∙ They really work—copper
conducts heat better!
∙ A full ⅛th-inch-thick
∙ Since 2002

Order Online
BellaCopper.com
95

louisianacookin.com

Crawfish Boil Seasoning, 56
Garlic Confit, 64
Meyer Lemon Marmalade, 31
Rémoulade Sauce, 64
Salted Bourbon Caramel Sauce, 53

Seafood
Grouper with Meyer Lemon Relish, 32
Roasted Fish with Cannellini Beans, 64

Soups, Stews, and Gumbos
GW Fins’ Gulf Cioppino, 36
Red Bean and Tortellini Soup, 62

Vegetables and Side Dishes
Blistered Green Beans with Pickled
Peppers, 27
Brême au Riz (Eggplant Rice Dressing), 34
Cane Syrup-Glazed Collard Greens, 84
Creole Black Bean Burgers, 64
Lemon, Kale, and Andouille Sausage
Salad, 73
Pickled Butternut Squash, 56
Slow-Cooked Bean Medley, 62
Spicy Brussels Sprouts, 70
RESOURCES
Spillin’ the Beans: Photos courtesy of
Daniel Edwards of Waitr (The James
710, page 11); Four Seasons Hotels
Limited (Miss River, page 11); Micro
Pharms (page 11); Dave Evans (Luna
Bar & Grill, page 13); and Aubrie Pick
for Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants
(Peacock Room, page 15). Louisiana’s
Best: Photos courtesy of Wishing
Town Bakery Cafe (page 75); Christy
Montgomery (Buttercups Cupcakes,
page 76); Faith Simmons of Debbie
Does Doberge (page 76); Nealy Frentz
(LOLA, page 76); Randy Krause
Schmidt (CounterspaceBR, page 77);
Nick Bumgardner of Bumgardner
Photography (The Cupcake Collection,
page 77); and Dani Leal (Bayou Saint
Cake, page 77).
Swizzle Stick: Photo on page 91 courtesy
of Abbey Hough.

STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND
CIRCULATION (required by Act of August 12, 1970: Section
3685, Title 39, United States Code). 1. Louisiana Cookin’.
2. (ISSN: 1096-4134) 3. Filing date: 10/1/2021. 4. Issue
frequency: Bi-monthly. 5. Number of issues published annually: 6.
6. The annual subscription price is $27. 7. Complete mailing
address of known office of publication: Hoffman Media 1900
International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243-5038.
Contact person: Kolin Rankin. 8. Complete mailing address of
headquarters or general business office of publisher: Hoffman
Media 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL
35243-5038. 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of
publisher, editor, and managing editor. Publisher, Phyllis Hoffman
DePiano, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham,
AL 35243-5038; Editor, Caitlin Watzke, 1900 International Park
Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243-5038; Managing Editor,
N/A. 10. Owner: Hoffman Media, 1900 International Park Drive,
Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243-5038. 11. Known bondholders,
mortgages, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent
of more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities:
None. 12. Tax status: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12
Months. 13. Publisher title: Louisiana Cookin’. 14. Issue date for
circulation data below: September/October 2021. 15. The extent
and nature of circulation: A. Total number of copies printed (Net
press run). Average number of copies each issue during preceding
12 months: 36,559. Actual number of copies of single issue
published nearest to filing date: 36,890. B. Paid circulation.
1. Mailed outside-county paid subscriptions. Average number of
copies each issue during the preceding 12 months: 17,751. Actual
number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date:
16,355. 2. Mailed in-county paid subscriptions. Average number
of copies each issue during the preceding 12 months: 0. Actual
number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 0.
3. Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors and counter
sales. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding 12
months: 4,000. Actual number of copies of single issue published
nearest to filing date: 3,875. 4. Paid distribution through other
classes mailed through the USPS. Average number of copies each
issue during the preceding 12 months: 39. Actual number of
copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 40. C. Total
paid distribution. Average number of copies each issue during
preceding 12 months: 21,790. Actual number of copies of single
issue published nearest to filing date: 20,270. D. Free or nominal
rate distribution (by mail and outside mail). 1. Free or nominal
Outside-County. Average number of copies each issue during
the preceding 12 months: 214. Number of copies of single issue
published nearest to filing date: 146. 2. Free or nominal rate
in-county copies. Average number of copies each issue during
the preceding 12 months: 0. Number of copies of single issue
published nearest to filing date: 0. 3. Free or nominal rate copies
mailed at other Classes through the USPS. Average number of
copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0. Number of
copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 0. 4. Free
or nominal rate distribution outside the mail. Average number of
copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 1,650. Number of
copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 2,025.
E. Total free or nominal rate distribution. Average number of copies
each issue during preceding 12 months: 1,864. Actual number of
copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 2,171. F. Total
free distribution (sum of 15c and 15e). Average number of copies
each issue during preceding 12 months: 23,654. Actual number
of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 22,441.
G. Copies not Distributed. Average number of copies each issue
during preceding 12 months: 12,905. Actual number of copies
of single issue published nearest to filing date: 14,449. H. Total
(sum of 15f and 15g). Average number of copies each issue during
preceding 12 months: 36,559. Actual number of copies of single
issue published nearest to filing: 36,890. I. Percent paid. Average
percent of copies paid for the preceding 12 months: 92.1%. Actual
percent of copies paid for the preceding 12 months: 90.3%.
16. Electronic Copy Circulation: A. Paid Electronic Copies.
Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months:
0. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest
to filing date: 0. B. Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c) + Paid
Electronic Copies (Line 16a). Average number of copies each issue
during preceding 12 months: 21,790. Actual number of copies
of single issue published nearest to filing date: 20,270. C. Total
Print Distribution (Line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a).
Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months:
23,654. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest
to filing date: 22,441. D. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic
Copies) (16b divided by 16c x 100). Average number of copies each
issue during preceding 12 months: 92.1%. Actual number of copies
of single issue published nearest to filing date: 90.3%. I certify
that 50% of all distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid
above nominal price: Yes. Report circulation on PS Form 3526-X
worksheet. 17. Publication of statement of ownership will be
printed in the November/December 2021 issue of the publication.
18. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager,
or owner: Greg Baugh, Executive Vice President/Operations &
Manufacturing. I certify that all information furnished on this form
is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false
or misleading information on this form or who omits material or
information requested on the form may be subject to criminal
sanction and civil actions.

L AG N IAP P E

IT’S TURKEY TIME! The
turkey is the centerpiece of any
Thanksgiving table, and as you
plan your holiday menus this
year, visit louisianacookin.com
for our best turkey recipes.
Whether you’re looking for a
classic roast turkey or something
a little more creative (like a
Boudin-Stuffed Turkey Roulade
or Fried Turkey Breasts with
Cranberry-Satsuma Sauce), you’re
sure to find a recipe that will help
you celebrate the season in the
most delicious way.
97

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