Теги: magazine   magazine vanity fair  

ISBN: 0733-8899

Год: 2024

Текст
                    OCTOBER 2024

Gomez
INSIDE THE
FAR RIGHT’S

CATHOLIC
CELEBRITY
MACHINE
HOW A MELLON
HEIR BECAME

A MAGA
MEGA-DONOR
THE MAKING OF

SATURDAY
NIGHT LIVE
(THE MOVIE!)
Plus

MELINDA
FRENCH
GATES
ON THE FUTURE
OF GIVING

On the PERFORMANCE
of Her CAREER—and the
LOVE of Her LIFE
B y YO H A N A D E S TA
Photog raph s by
E M MA S U M M E RTON









FENDI BOUTIQUES 888 291 0163 FEN D I .CO M
WHEN I MOVE YOU MOVE LUDACRIS JESSICA ALBA

VE YOU MOVE EY

Contents The October Issue / No. 762 Vanities 62 22 22 / Opening Act Maisy Stella on the role 10,000 girls wanted. 26 / The Gallery Prada’s petite play on porcelain. 30 / Trending Maincharacter energy à la Nora Ephron. 32 / Books A photo chronicle of the jet set, plus the best new nonfiction. 34 / My Stuff Gossip maven Lainey Lui’s favorites, from Beyoncé to matcha perfume. 36 / Books & Totes Brilliant new reads paired with beautiful bags. 38 / Architecture In a debut monograph, a design star and a fiction writer team up. Columns 40 Meet the young, Godfearing, America-loving defense tech entrepreneurs of El Segundo. By Zoë Bernard 18 Editor’s Letter On the Cover 12 20 Contributors 110 Proust Questionnaire Selena Gomez’s coat by Prada; gloves by Seymoure; tights by Wolford; ring by Prada Fine Jewelry. Hair products by Orlando Pita Play. Makeup products by Rare Beauty. Nail enamel by Essie. Hair by Orlando Pita. Makeup by Hung Vanngo. Manicure by Tom Bachik. Tailors, Hasmik Kourinian and Susie Kourinian. Set design by Robert Doran. Produced on location by Viewfinders. Styled by Dena Giannini. Photographed exclusively for VF by Emma Summerton in LA. For details, go to VF.com/credits. VA N I T Y FA I R PHOTOGRAPH BY S E BA ST I A N KIM 44 Party Planning Inside Vladimir Putin’s fever dream of a second Trump presidency. By Mikhail Zygar Illustration by Mark Harris OCTOBER 2024 S E L E N A G O M E Z ’ S B O O T S B Y L E S I L L A . F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S . Boys and Their Toys

Contents The October Issue / No. 762 Columns Features 46 48 62 74 Stranger Things Both Sides Now Give and Let Give From brat memes to coconut TikToks, how Kamala Harris and Tim Walz learned to stop worrying and love the weird. By Kase Wickman A storybook romance, an acclaimed film, and Only Murders back in the building—it’s a sublime time to be Selena Gomez. By Yohana Desta Photographs by Emma Summerton Melinda French Gates opens up about politics, fighting for women’s rights, and embracing her role as mentor to a new generation of philanthropists. By Keziah Weir The Billionaire’s Secret 80 86 92 98 The General Bad Faith Funny Business A House Divided How Elizabeth Prelogar, one of the most powerful US solicitor generals in a generation, is taking the fight to the Supreme Court. By Cristian Farias Photographs by Andre D. Wagner JD Vance, Candace Owens, Shia LaBeouf, and more: The far right has developed a robust Catholic celebrity conversion operation. By Kathryn Joyce Illustration by Marc Burckhardt In Saturday Night, Jason Reitman re-creates the making of the hilarious first episode of SNL, complete with John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd, and a fresh-faced Lorne Michaels. By Anthony Breznican The notoriously private Mellon family break their silence about Tim Mellon becoming a Donald Trump mega-donor. By James Reginato Klaus-Michael Kuehne’s family business grew on profits from the Nazi regime —just don’t ask him about it. By David de Jong Illustration by Mike McQuade Features 14 VA N I T Y FA I R PHOTOGRAPH BY E M M A SUMMERTON OCTOBER 2024 S E L E N A G O M E Z ’ S C LO T H I N G A N D S H O E S B Y S A I N T L A U R E N T B Y A N T H O N Y VA C C A R E L LO ; G LO V E S B Y T H O M A S I N E ; S T O C K I N G S B Y C A L Z E D O N I A ; N E C K L A C E B Y B U LG A R I H I G H J E W E L R Y. F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S . 48

® Editor in Chief Radhika Jones Deputy Editor Daniel Kile Executive Digital Director Michael Hogan Director of Editorial Operations Kelly Butler Executive Editor, Features & Development Claire Howorth Executive Editor Matthew Lynch Executive Hollywood Editor Jeff Giles Editor, The Hive Michael Calderone Director of Special Projects Sara Marks Global Head of Talent Alison Ward Frank Editor, Creative Development David Friend Senior Hollywood Editor Hillary Busis Senior Vanities Editor Maggie Coughlan Senior Hive Editor Meena Ganesan Senior Editor Keziah Weir Global Entertainment Director Caitlin Brody West Coast Director, Editorial Projects John Ross Editorial Operations Manager Jaime Archer Associate Hive Editor Jon Skolnik Politics Correspondent Bess Levin Senior Hollywood Correspondent Anthony Breznican Senior Awards Correspondent Rebecca Ford Hollywood Correspondents David Canfield, Julie Miller Culture Correspondent Nate Freeman Chief Critic Richard Lawson TV Correspondent Joy Press Staff Writers Dan Adler, Chris Murphy, Erin Vanderhoof, Savannah Walsh Special Correspondents Nick Bilton, Bryan Burrough, Katherine Eban, Joe Hagan, Molly Jong-Fast, Maureen Orth, Mark Seal, Gabriel Sherman, Brian Stelter Writers-at-Large Marie Brenner, James Reginato Associate Web Producers Kathleen Creedon, Fred Sahai Assistant to the Editor in Chief Daniela Tijerina Editorial Assistants Arimeta Diop, Kayla Holliday Special Projects Manager Ari Bergen Special Projects Associate Charlene Oliver Business Director Geoff Collins Senior Manager of Communications Dhara Parikh Design & Photography Senior Design Director Justin Patrick Long Visuals Director Cate Sturgess Art Director Emily Crawford Senior Visuals Editors Natalie Gialluca, Lauren Margit Jones, Michael Kramer Senior Designer Khoa Tran Visuals Editor, Photo Research Eric Miles Visuals Editor Allison Schaller Associate Visuals Editor Madison Reid Designer Pamela Wei Wang Fashion Fashion Director Nicole Chapoteau Accessories Director Daisy Shaw-Ellis Associate Menswear Director Miles Pope Market Editor Kia D. Goosby Associate Fashion Editor Jessica Neises Assistant Fashion Editor Samantha Gasmer Content Integrity Senior Counsel Terence Keegan Production Director J Jamerson Research Director David Gendelman Copy Director Michael Casey Associate Legal Affairs Editor Simon Brennan Production Managers Beth Meyers, Susan M. Rasco, Roberto Rodríguez Research Managers Brendan Barr, Kelvin C. Bias, Audrey Fromson, Michael Sacks Online Director of Copy & Research Rachel Freeman Copy Manager Michael Quiñones Line Editors Lily Leach, Leah Tannehill Associate Editor S.P. Nix Audience Development Global Director of Audience Development Alyssa Karas Associate Director, Analytics Neelum Khan Associate Director of Social Media Sarah Morse Audience Development Manager Tyler Breitfeller Associate Social Media Manager Burake Teshome Video Senior Director of Programming & Development Ella Ruffel Executive Producer Ruhiya Nuruddin Director of Creative Development Claire Buss Director of Content Production Lane Williamson Video Directors Adam Lance Garcia, Jameer Pond, Funmi Sunmonu Senior Manager of Creative Development Hannah Pak Coordinating Producer Madison Coffey Associate Producer Emebeit Beyene Vanity Fair Studios Head of Film & TV Helen Estabrook VPs, Development & Production Sarah Amos, Jodi Hildebrand, Lajoie St. George, Andrew Whitney Senior Director, Development & Production Lexy Altman Development & Production Managers Sarah Patzer, Samantha Smith Senior Director, Acquisitions Sarah Lash Acquisitions Coordinator Rafael Peralta Entertainment Associates Brigid Cromwell, Madison Hallman, Sydney Hemmendinger Audio Head of Global Audio Christopher Bannon Executive Producer Steven Valentino Contributing Photographers Annie Leibovitz Jonathan Becker, Nick Riley Bentham, Norman Jean Roy, Collier Schorr, Mark Seliger Contributing Editors Kurt Andersen, Lili Anolik, Jorge Arévalo, Buzz Bissinger, Derek Blasberg, Christopher Bollen, Douglas Brinkley, Michael Callahan, Adam Ciralsky, Ta-Nehisi Coates, Sloane Crosley, Janine di Giovanni, Lisa Eisner, Alex French, Paul Goldberger, Adam Leith Gollner, Vanessa Grigoriadis, Carol Blue Hitchens, A.M. Homes, Uzodinma Iweala, May Jeong, Sebastian Junger, Sam Kashner, Jemima Khan, Tom Kludt, Hilary Knight, Wayne Lawson, Kiese Makeba Laymon, Franklin Leonard, Monica Lewinsky, Eric Lutz, Shawn Martinbrough, Ryan McAmis, Bethany McLean, Katie Nicholl, Maureen O’Connor, Jen Palmieri, Anna Peele, Evgenia Peretz, Maximillian Potter, Robert Risko, Lisa Robinson, Mark Rozzo, Maureen Ryan, Nancy Jo Sales, Elissa Schappell, Jeff Sharlet, Michael Shnayerson, Chris Smith, Richard Stengel, Karen Valby, Diane von Furstenberg, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, Basil Walter, Jesmyn Ward, Ned Zeman 16 VA N I T Y FA I R OCTOBER 2024

Editor’s Letter I have often thought how fortunate we Americans are that the robber barons of our Gilded Age, even while they amassed vast personal fortunes, nevertheless decided that part of their legacy should be philanthropic. Because industrialists like Carnegie and Rockefeller endowed libraries and schools at grand scale, it became understood that enriching oneself and one’s family came with a responsibility to patronize the arts and other creative and intellectual institutions. That notion has persisted through generations. And although giving, even at a grand scale, cannot cancel out inequality, it’s far better than no giving at all. Last year at a breakfast with a handful of journalists, Melinda French Gates mentioned that she is often asked for advice on how to give. Having come up on the tidal wave of wealth creation in Silicon Valley and then funneling that wealth on an extraordinary level into the Gates Foundation, she’s a pioneer and an expert, primed to counsel new members of the millionaire and billionaire clubs on what their legacies might look like outside the boardroom. As Keziah Weir reports, Melinda’s own philanthropic work has undergone a seismic shift this year, as she left the foundation she and her ex-husband began in 2000 to strike out on her own, doubling her efforts on lifting up women and girls. I know from my own work as a director of the board of CARE, the global humanitarian organization, that money spent improving the lives of women and girls is the most effective path to improving lives in general, since they have the most untapped potential. In this issue we spotlight a circle of influential women whom Melinda has 18 VA N I T Y FA I R mentored and supported in their desire to give back on multiple fronts—from Sara Blakely’s focus on fostering entrepreneurship to Anne Wojcicki’s championing of scientists to Tsitsi Masiyiwa’s commitment to education, food security, and disaster preparedness. Keziah also spoke with Melinda at length about her renewed philanthropic objectives, the experiences of sexism that helped inform her point of view, and her endorsement of Vice President Kamala Harris. this is the first editor’s letter I’m writing since Harris stepped up and into the presidential race, energizing the Democratic Party and changing the course of the election. The unprecedented shake-up has made for an electric summer and fall in our newsroom as we follow the candidates and their Diet Mountain Dew–loving vice presidential picks on the road to November 5. I hope you’re following our coverage on VF.com—from convention reporting to campaign analysis to meme and merch scorecards (is Tim Walz a Chappell Roan stan?)—and listening to our weekly politics podcast, Inside the Hive. We are committed to keeping you up-to-date through Election Day and beyond, in the way only Vanity Fair can. ON THAT NOTE, radhika jones, Editor in Chief PHOTOGRAPH BY M A R K SELIGER OCTOBER 2024

Contributors Clockwise from top left: Sebastian Kim, Ryan McAmis, Kase Wickman, Mikhail Zygar, James Reginato, Kathryn Joyce. Ryan MCAMIS Kase WICKMAN “GIVE AND LET GIVE,” P. 62 PROUST QUESTIONNAIRE, P. 110 “STRANGER THINGS,” P. 46 “Melinda French Gates’s only request was that we play The Tortured Poets Department,” says photographer Kim. Luckily, his daughter is a Swiftie, so he wasn’t caught off guard. Aside from taking portraits and listening to Taylor Swift, he is learning how to cook Korean and Japanese dishes. Illustrator McAmis, who is building a scale model of a medieval cathedral in his free time, thinks sketching from interviews is the best way to capture a person’s nuances. He had a “great time combing through Stanley Tucci’s videos all while learning how to make Spaghetti Alla Nerano,” he says. “It was fascinating to see how quickly Harris’s campaign pivoted to this messaging after Biden stepped aside as nominee, proving that campaigns really aren’t one-size-fits-all,” says Wickman, a frequent VF contributor and author. Kathryn JOYCE “BAD FAITH,” P. 86 Joyce is an investigative journalist, editor, and author who first wrote about the Catholic right for VF in 2020. Back then, it was an overlooked part of American Christian nationalism that presaged the Church’s impending civil war. “In 2024, the story has gotten significantly weirder,” she says. 20 VA N I T Y FA I R James REGINATO “A HOUSE DIVIDED,” P. 98 “Tim Mellon has suddenly emerged as the most consequential mega-donor of this election cycle,” says VF writer-at-large Reginato, who talked to Mellon’s family and friends to learn more about the little-known member of the old money dynasty. Mikhail ZYGAR “PARTY PLANNING,” P. 44 Zygar was the founding editor in chief of Russia’s only independent TV channel, TV Rain (now in exile), and has authored three books on the country. Since relocating to New York in 2023, he is a visiting professor at Princeton University and writes “The Last Pioneer,” a newsletter about the Kremlin. OCTOBER 2024 K I M : N ATA L I A R E A D - H A R B E R . M C A M I S : C O U R T E S Y O F R YA N M C A M I S . W I C K M A N : M A R C G O L D B E R G . J OY C E : J O S H W O O L . R E G I N AT O : C O U R T E S Y O F J A M E S R E G I N AT O . Z YG A R : C O U R T E S Y O F M I K H A I L Z YG A R . Sebastian KIM

Dress by Chloé; boots by Aeyde. Throughout: hair products by Kérastase Paris; makeup products by Victoria Beckham Beauty; nail enamel by Chanel Le Vernis. Styled by Mindy Le Brock. 22 VA N I T Y FA I R
I ES VA N I TA S VA N I TAT U M PAGE 26 A PINT-SIZE PRADA PURSE PAGE 30 WIT & KNITS: NORA EPHRON– INSPIRED STYLE PAGE 38 HOUSE PORN WITH A LITERARY TWIST MAISY STELLA knows how to think outside the box By Anthony Breznican Photographs by Daria Kobayashi Ritch Maisy Stella didn’t have a TV as a kid because her musician parents didn’t want her and her older sister, Lennon, tuning in and tuning out. So the girls used their imaginations. “My sister made a cardboardbox TV that I would get in, and she had a fake cardboard remote,” Stella says. “I’d do a baking show, and then she’d be like, ‘Soap opera!’ and I’d be like, ‘You killed my husband!’ We would do that for hours. That was our entertainment.” Only later, when the girls landed roles as Connie Britton’s children on the country music drama Nashville, did their mother and father relent. “We bought a TV the day that me and my sister got on TV.” Now 20, Stella has broken through as the wry lead of the irresistible coming-of-age comedy My Old Ass, which Amazon MGM OCTOBER 2024 23
Vanities / Opening Act Clothing by Ferragamo; shoes by Christian Louboutin; socks by Calzedonia. to appreciate the people in her life before they’re gone. Some of it’s more practical, like “Wear your retainer!” Stella was born in Ontario and essentially grew up on camera during six seasons on Nashville, which she joined at the age of eight. The show featured many songs she wrote with her sister and propelled their YouTube channel to around 720,000 subscribers. In the years since, Stella has become an old hand at the ups and downs of Hollywood, making her reluctant to get too excited for a project that might fall apart or not go her way. When she read writer-director Megan Park’s script for My Old Ass, however, she felt “instant anxiety” at the idea of not getting the role, especially since she’d heard “10,000 girls” auditioned for it. “I knew how bad I wanted it, and I knew how right it felt,” Stella says. “So I just went full-on. I have a shitty tuna-can boat, just like Elliott, and I sent the producers a video of me giving a tour of my boat.” IN THE MOVIE, Elliott has only ever fallen for other girls, but her unexpected yearning for a local guy—someone her older self warns her to stay away from no matter what— complicates her sense of identity, leading to hilarious, genre-tweaking conversations with her best friends (as well as her future self ) about who she is and what she really wants. “I know so many people that have had such similar experiences,” Stella says. “I think it’s much less common to be sure of what you want. I mean, I’ve always been queer. I’m in a queer relationship. But I’ve always been open, and I’ve never been explicitly one thing. I’ve been given the space and the room to not put a label on myself.” Now that the buzz around My Old Ass has raised her profile in Hollywood, Stella is plotting her next moves. “I just want to keep making movies and I want to keep making art and I want to keep figuring my shit out,” she says. “I’m in a position right now where I’m being considered for things, which is earth-shattering to me.” She’s already shot a new film, the surreal drama Flowervale Street, with Anne Hathaway and Ewan McGregor playing her parents. “They were truly beyond lovely, both of them,” she says. “Ewan is the coolest that’s ever lived, and Annie has such a gentle power about her that I was so moved by.” Stella will be the one wowing newcomers some day. It’s the whole point of My Old Ass: She’s got a future.  24 VA N I T Y FA I R OCTOBER 2024 H A I R , S Y LV I A W H E E L E R ; M A K E U P , K A R O K A N G A S ; M A N I C U R E , S T E P H A N I E S T O N E ; TA I LO R , TAT YA N A C A S S A N E L L I . P R O D U C E D O N LO C AT I O N B Y P O R T F O L I O O N E . F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S . Studios bought after it beguiled audiences at the Sundance Film Festival early this year. The movie, in theaters September 13, is about a teenage girl named Elliott who’s eager to grow up and get away from her family’s lake-town cranberry farm—until a dose of especially potent psychedelic shrooms triggers a ghost-of-Christmasfuture-style visit from her 39-year-old self, played by Aubrey Plaza. Older Elliott comes bearing wisdom and warnings about regrets to come. Most of it involves telling younger Elliott how to avoid heartbreaks and
* A part of me
Vanities / The Gallery Fashion PLATE Redolent of fine china, this petite Prada handbag features textured florals—little reliefs made in spazzolato (brushed) calfskin leather—that mimic the effect of hand-painted porcelain. Inspired by delicate tableware, the dainty hard-bodied bag is a true pocketbook: Keys or a tube of lipstick will fit, a phone not so much. No need for any of that, because it’s pretty enough for the curio cabinet. —Daisy Shaw-Ellis Photograph by Prada bag, $4,200. (prada.com) 26 VA N I T Y FA I R OCTOBER 2024 S E T D E S I G N , J I L L N I C H O L L S . F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S . VANESSA GRANDA



Vanities / Trending 2 BEWITCHED 4 1. Hourglass Cosmetics liquid blush in Craft, $36. (hourglasscosmetics.com) 2.6Pandora bracelet, $5,550. (pandora.net) 3.6Loro Piana pants, $1,600. (loropiana.com) 4.6Aesop Eleos hand balm, $33. (aesop.com) 5.6God’s True Cashmere shirt, $2,490. (godstrue cashmere.com) 6.6Miu Miu shoes, $1,250. (miumiu.com) 7.6The Row 3 1 5 7 9 8 9 Meet CUTE Met Sally..., featured in the monograph Nora Ephron at the Movies by Ilana Kaplan. 30 VA N I T Y FA I R 11 12 13 19 OCTOBER 2024 W H E N H A R R Y M E T S A L LY … : F R O M N O R A E P H R O N AT T H E M O V I E S / E V E R E T T C O L L E C T I O N / C O U R T E S Y O F T H E P U B L I S H E R . BOOK COVER: COURTESY OF THE PUBLISHER . ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF THE BRANDS. 10 From When Harry Met Sally… to You’ve Got Mail, NORA EPHRON’s singular style championed the feminist perspective in witty banter and chunky knits. Nora Ephron at the Movies (Abrams) explores her life, legacy, and reinvention of the rom-com
*Source: IQVIA Spain Market TAM October 2023.
Vanities / Books Six Pack Gripping inquiries into all aspects of humanity AND THE ROOTS OF RHYTHM REMAIN Producer Joe Boyd (Nick Drake, R.E.M.) follows roving threads of sound—brass in Istanbul, Cuban Jam Sessions, Congolese rumba—and the artists they influenced, from Bob Marley to David Byrne. (Ze Books) ABORTION Since the fall of Roe, Jessica Valenti has tracked the state of reproductive rights from local bans to ballot measures; ahead of a pivotal election, she lays out the landscape, presenting a cogent case that bodily autonomy wins votes. (Crown) Past PERFECT A new collection of photography presents a glittering jet set but serves, too, as a moving meditation on the passage of time IN THE EARLY 1980s, Vanity Fair, after a 47-year hiatus, was planning to relaunch. To help fill the pages, art director Bea Feitler turned to a trusted protégé: a 26-year-old photographer with a hungry eye and a devilish grin. His name was Jonathan Becker. Recently he’d been driving a cab. To scrape by, he’d relied on free dinners from his pal Elaine Kaufman, proprietor of the legendary Upper East Side boîte Elaine’s. Even so, Feitler saw promise in “the kid,” as she called him. And in 1983, when VF took flight, Becker was on board. His beat became New York’s corridors of power, its literary circles, its socialites and swans. Before long he’d be jetting off to Buenos Aires and Cap d’Antibes, applying the wisdom he’d gleaned from mentors like Brassaï, Jean-Paul Goude, and Slim Aarons. Always stylish and a devotee of fine design, Becker would become a denizen of the beau monde he photographed. Some 32 VA N I T Y FA I R 40 years on, he continues to make masterly portraits, collaborating with his subjects to achieve, as he puts it, “an almost intimate mutual understanding.” This month Phaidon publishes Jonathan Becker: Lost Time, edited by Mark Holborn. (A companion exhibition runs at the Katonah Museum of Art through January.) The book, a photo memoir of Becker’s charmed life and work, is a shrewdly paced gallery of royals, rogues, and statesmen; artists and news makers; pruned gardens and perfect interiors; and, above all, individuals of impeccable taste. Holborn’s poignant juxtapositions and time shifts reinforce the sublime melancholy of the passage of seasons, years, decades. Becker’s lens is a Proustian hourglass in which each grain is a gleam of light that flashes, then lingers, then fades. Indeed, Lost Time seems to rescue memory itself —david friend from oblivion. PHOTOGRAPHS BY J O N AT H A N B E C K E R AN IMAGE OF MY NAME ENTERS AMERICA From the expansive mind of novelist, poet, and critic Lucy Ives, stylish, sweeping essays that consider the lure of period rooms, Alanis Morissette, Heidegger, and more. (Graywolf) NO ROAD LEADING BACK VF contributor Chris Heath traces the harrowing accounts of 12 Jewish prisoners who escaped the Holocaust killing site at Ponar, Lithuania—as well as those of bystanders—in this investigation of truth and silence. (Schocken) RECOGNIZING THE STRANGER This succinct and thorough study of humanism and turning points collects novelist Isabella Hammad’s Edward W. Said Memorial Lecture on Palestine, delivered in September 2023, and a substantial afterword written this year. (Black Cat) BY THE FIRE WE CARRY Rebecca Nagle, a Cherokee journalist, examines the thorny history of a murder case that ballooned into a question of tribal land rights in a narrative as propulsive and affecting as it is infuriating. (Harper) —Keziah Weir OCTOBER 2024 BECKER: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND THE PUBLISHER . ALL OTHER BOOK COVERS: COURTESY OF THE PUBLISHERS. Clockwise from top left: Fran Lebowitz at the 2000 VF Oscar Party; Brooke de Ocampo, 2005; Jonathan Becker’s self-portrait, 1977; Lost Time; Ernest Hemingway’s Idaho home, 2011.
Simon Porte Jacquemus Jean Paul Gaultier Pat McGrath Honey Dijon Victoria Beckham Raul Lopez Duffy V I CTO RI A BEC K HA M : DA N JAC KSON . RAUL LOP E Z: A NDY M A RT IN E Z. JE A N PAUL GAU LT IE R : PE T ER L I ND BE RG H. DUF FY: G L EN LUC HFO RD. Are you ready for the runway? FORCES OF FASHION OCTOBER 16, 2024 NEW YORK CITY F O R TICKETS, VISIT W W W. VOGU E F OR C E SOF FA SH I O N . C O M/ N Y C
Vanities / My Stuff 1 2 4 3 5 Haute GOSSIP LAINEY LUI, creator of celebrity news devotional Lainey Gossip, swears by espresso martinis and her mom’s vintage Rolexes while keeping tabs on the A-list Style File Fried Rice T-shirt (6), Frapbois jeans. BELOVED BRAND: Ganni. GO-TO SHOE: The Mrs. Maisel Midheel by the Office of Angela Scott (3). EARRINGS: Maria Tash Handcuff in white gold. WRIST CANDY: Rolexes from my mother’s vault. STYLE ICONS: Michelle Yeoh and Rina Sawayama. DAILY UNIFORM: 6  Self-care Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel (2). SERUM: SkincCuticals C E Ferulic (10). MOISTURIZERS: Rhode Barrier Restore cream during the day and Shiseido Vital Perfection Uplifting and Firming Cream Enriched at night (9). MAKEUP ROUTINE: Shiseido Sports BB cream, Dior Forever Skin Correct concealer (11), Sephora Collection Charged Up liquid eye shadow, Sunnies Face Fluffmatte lipstick, and Nature Republic Essential lip balm. HAIR CARE: RYO Damage Care & Nourishing shampoo and conditioner and a Wet Brush. PERFUME: Maison Margiela Replica Matcha Meditation (1). WORKOUT: Golf (12) wearing Piretti.  At Home An air fryer. THE UNEXPECTED: Our marital annual golf trophy. HOUSEPLANTS: Money trees (8). DINNERWARE: Denby pasta bowls are my favorite (4). ART: A commissioned portrait of Beyoncé. FURRY FRIENDS: Two beagles, Barney and Elvis. RECENT ADDITION: FACE WASH: 7 8 9 10 12 11 34 VA N I T Y FA I R  For Pleasure How to End a Love Story by Yulin Kuang (7). WATCHING: Chinese and Korean dramas. LISTENING TO: Beyoncé and Raye. INSPIRED BY: Chinese beauty influencers on TikTok. READING:  The Menu Hot water. An espresso martini (5). POWER SNACK: Jack Link’s beef jerky. HOME-COOKED SPECIALTY: Beef and tomato stewy rice, Hong Kong diner–style. TAKE-OUT ORDER: Ravioli du Dauphiné from Cafe Renée in Toronto. MORNING CUP: INDULGENT BEVERAGE: OCTOBER 2024 L U I : C O L I N G A U D E T. 5 : T R I O C E A N / G E T T Y I M A G E S . 7 : C O U R T E S Y O F AV O N B O O K S . 8 : M A R T I N C H R I S T O P H E R /A L A M Y. 1 2 : G E O R G E H OY N I N G E N - H U E N E / C O N D É N A S T A R C H I V E . A L L O T H E R S : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E B R A N D S . 

Vanities / Books & Totes Clutch LIT MODEL HOME In Rivers Solomon’s haunting drama, Ezri and their sisters return to their parents’ house in the gated Dallas community where they were the only Black family and where an agonizing truth about the past awaits. (MCD) A REASON TO SEE YOU AGAIN From Jami Attenberg, doyen of absorbing family excavations, 37 years in the life of the Cohens: a closeted patriarch, his foundering widow, their daughters, poles apart. (Ecco) REJECTION Obsessively readable, acerbic, Foster Wallace–inflected: In seven linked stories, Tony Tulathimutte’s characters—feminist incel, zealous start-up guy, spurned woman, rejected author— fail to connect. (William Morrow) INTERMEZZO A chess prodigy in his early 20s and his brother, a 30-something lawyer, navigate various relationships (their own thorny one, plus complicated romances) in Sally Rooney’s compelling latest. (FSG) Bottega Veneta Liberta bag, $4,200. (bottegaveneta.com) The Row mini Devon bag, $3,900. (therow.com) Khaite The Cate handbag, $4,800. (khaite.com) Chanel vanity case, $5,500. (select Chanel boutiques) 36 VA N I T Y FA I R PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSEPHINE SCHIELE ST YLING, KRIS JENSEN. Style and substance abound in this selection of smart bags and great fiction—befitting the season, some are scary, but all are scary good
THE MIGHTY RED Louise Erdrich sets her rich saga against the backdrop of the 2008 economic crash in North Dakota, where the teenage daughter of a woman trucker is set to marry a farming heir while wooed by another man. (Harper) IN THE DISTANCE Published in paperback by the indie Coffee House Press in 2017, Hernan Diaz’s best in show of an underdog debut—a surreal Western about a Swede’s adventures—appears in hardcover for the first time. (Riverhead) BLOOD TEST In an Ohio town beset by opioids, an insurance salesman learns that he’s genetically predisposed to violent crime—and, to hilarious effect, finds himself barreling down a deadly path in Charles Baxter’s tender tale. (Pantheon) THE EMPUSIUM Olga Tokarczuk’s “Health Resort Horror Story” finds a young tuberculosis sufferer seeking treatment in the Silesian mountains, where questions of gender, class, and mysterious murders arise. (Riverhead) —Keziah Weir Ferragamo Fiamma crossbody bag, $2,500. (ferragamo.com) Fendi Peekaboo soft handbag, $6,500. (fendi.com) Miu Miu Arcadie bag, $3,050. (miumiu.com) Chloé Bracelet bag, $2,850. (chloe.com) OCTOBER 2024 37
Narrative ARCH In a new architecture monograph, glossy brownstone renovations and modern masterpieces come alive through an unusual inhabitant: flash fiction By Keziah Weir WHEN ARCHITECT ELIZABETH Roberts has a creative block, it’s usually just a sign she hasn’t collected enough information yet. For the California transplant made famous by her airy overhauls of New York town houses (Maggie Gyllenhaal and Peter Sarsgaard’s Park Slope brownstone and Athena Calde­ rone’s Cobble Hill Greek Revival among them), this might mean the neighborhood’s history, or how the rising sun hits a building. Such was the case, too, when the owners of a plot sprawling over a Catskills hilltop invited her to submit a proposal. The possibilities initially proved stifling; the home, she says, “could be anything.” But in considering the space, “I realized that these stacked stone walls all over the property told me where the house wanted to be.” They served not only as a guide but also as the building’s structure and a crucial design element. “After hundreds of years, and understanding the grade and the light and the views, these farmers nailed it.” 38 VA N I T Y FA I R One of Elizabeth Roberts’s revamped Brooklyn brownstones; a vintage postcard from a Roscoe, New York, lake; the living room of the Roscoe mountain house—stacked stones inside and out. Roberts has captured this layered process in her first monograph, Collected Stories (Monacelli), which she cowrote with Alanna Stang and which chronicles projects ranging from that mountain house to Rachel Comey’s SoHo flagship. “I love doing bright, open, glassy gorgeous things beside dusty, ornate things,” she says—a natural amalgamation, perhaps, of the “wide­open spaces” of her Marin County childhood and the NYC “grit and history” that won her adult heart. Likewise, in the book, sleek images of a travertine­clad bathroom, preserved crown moldings, and her signature white walls (Benjamin Moore’s mellow Cloud White in pristine historic restorations and new builds; Chantilly Lace to brighten a basement apartment or the walls of her own architecture firm) live alongside loose sketches and ephemera: a vintage postcard from an upstate lake, a Brooklyn map circa 1766. But what breathed life into the book, for Roberts, was the infusion of flash fiction by Christine Coulson, the veteran of more than 25 years of The Metropolitan Museum of Art whose Metropolitan Stories (2019) imagined sentient artworks and One Woman Show (2023) described a human life through museum wall labels. Coulson may share Roberts’s appreciation for white space—at least in her windowless writing studio, lit by skylights—but their methods are practically inverse. Coulson asked Roberts to send photos sans context, free­ associating pithy scenes, surreal and moving: the end of a relationship from an image of a historic bell, teens “fencing” upstairs prompt­ ed by a lofty entrance hall. “The stone had pushed itself up through the floor,” Coulson writes in response to the huge marble kitchen island of an Italianate town house, “like a gentle beast offering the ridge of its back for utilitarian use.” (She has a wry eye for human peculiarities: “It’s interesting, our desire to move giant pieces of earth and rock into our homes, at great expense.”) The vignettes “are a metaphor for what architects have to do all the time,” Coulson says. “They build these beautiful places and then they have to let people live in them. In some ways, these stories are me living in Elizabeth’s work.”  OCTOBER 2024 F LO T O + WA R N E R . Vanities / Architecture
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Vanities / Industry City Inside the hypermacho, Bible-thumping alt-tech universe trying to take on Silicon Valley—from El Segundo By Zoë Bernard F FOR MORE THAN two years, in the small, unassuming beach town of El Segundo, California, dozens of young men have gathered with a singular mission: to save America. They will do this, they say, by building the next generation of great tech companies. They call what they are building real shit—not like what the software engineers make up north, writing code on shiny MacBooks. Instead, these men have a taste for the tangible: They 40 VA N I T Y FA I R spend their workdays toiling in labs and manufacturing lines, their nights sleeping on couches and bunk beds. Some are making drones to try to control the weather. Others are building nuclear reactors and military weaponry designed to fight Russia and China. Out in El Segundo, where the saltwater-tinged air thrums with steady plane traffic and oil refineries sweep across the shoreline, these founders see themselves as faithful foot soldiers of American industry as well as bold incubators upending Silicon Valley’s status quo. “We’re pollinating different ideas,” Augustus Doricko, the founder and CEO of the cloud-seeding company Rainmaker, which raised $6.3 million from venture capitalists in May, tells me. “We’re sick of nihilism and goofy software products.” Behind him, on Rainmaker’s office wall, hangs an American flag the size of a dumpster. to Los Angeles, El Segundo is a factory town with a laid-back temperament. The city is home to fewer than 20,000 people and has deep manufacturing roots: Nearly three quarters of its land is dedicated to industrial uses, including petroleum refineries, power plants, and aerospace manufacturers. It is imbued with Californian nostalgia. Patrons sip beer on bar patios alongside their dogs. Below billowing steam towers, the downtown streets are flanked with retro diners and vintage record shops. The founders in El Segundo have settled on an expansive terrain from which to express sentiments that might chafe progressive sensibilities. They have an outsize respect for their country and men in uniform. They love fast cars, tobacco products, and their lord and savior Jesus Christ. They are aspirationally blue-collar, often wearing blue DESPITE ITS PROXIMITY OCTOBER 2024 I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y K H O A T R A N . D R O N E : C O U R T E S Y O F N E R O S . H E L I O S : CO U R T E S Y O F P I CO G R I D. AL L O T H E R S : G E T T Y I MAG E S . Boys and THEIR TOYS Opposite is a life-size poster of Jesus Christ smiling benevolently onto a bench press below. “Right now,” he adds, “Gundo is for hard tech what Florence was for art during the Renaissance.” For decades, cities across America have aspired to assume Silicon Valley’s mantle as the next technological hotbed. It was rumored for a short while that the entrepreneurial epicenter had shifted to Austin and then Miami. When it comes to “The Gundo,” the technological zeitgeist is, like all of these places, fueled by venture capitalists, who have invested more than $100 billion in defense tech companies since 2021, many of which are located in El Segundo. But the founders are adamant that their city, despite its investment windfall, is not Silicon Valley’s next act. In fact, it is ideologically opposed to what they consider the soft and comfortable world of the Bay Area and the lightweight commodities it now largely produces: corporate subscription software and trivial consumer applications. “This is not San Francisco lite or San Francisco plus a little bit of hardware,” says Zane Mountcastle, CEO of the defense technology company Picogrid. “It’s a different world from San Francisco, and it has a completely different mindset.”
HERE TO SLAY
Vanities / Industry City jeans, clean leather work boots, and dark T-shirts with company emblems embroidered on their breast pocket. At the offices of the nuclear energy company Valar Atomics, where I was invited to attend a Bible study, Bibles were propped up on desks beside laptops. Valar Atomics’ head of business operations, Elijah Froh, who is 26 years old and has the straightforward self-assurance of a car salesman, offered me a glass of raw milk, increasingly the drink of choice in many conservative circles. Then he led our small group in prayer and read aloud a passage from Hebrews. Later, Froh invited me into Valar Atomics’ cigar lounge, where actual cigars can’t be smoked due to a permitting issue with the building. We sat in enormous leather armchairs beside a small table stacked with cigars sealed in Ziploc bags. On the wall hung four large classical paintings depicting Columbus discovering America, the pilgrims arriving on the Mayflower, the signing of the Declaration of Independence, and the Constitutional Convention. Froh told me that God needed businessmen just as much as he needed missionaries, and that God had put him on this earth to build a nuclear energy company. During the three days that I visited companies in The Gundo, I saw three women and spoke to one: the wife of an employee at Valar Atomics who attended the Bible study along with her two young children. She had moved to a house near the beach with her husband three weeks earlier. When I asked if she was meeting many nice people, she laughed and said that she was too busy taking care of her children to leave the house. Later, I asked a founder in The Gundo why he thought there were so few women. “You’re missing the point,” he told me, claiming that this line of inquiry is “a non-thing. It muddies the story, and it distracts from our core mission of trying to save the West.” company in The Gundo has a huge American flag in its office, but the biggest—an object of envy among all the Gundo founders— is on the wall of Olaf Hichwa and Soren Monroe-Anderson’s 15,000-squarefoot drone factory, Neros. Hichwa is a wide-eyed, toothy 22-year-old from the DC area. In May Neros raised nearly $11 million. In the Neros factory, Hichwa showcased his company’s product: a wickedly fast drone that he maneuvered to terrifying heights above my head. Later, he showed me a video of Ukrainian soldiers detonating a bomb, latched to a Neros drone, on Russian artillery. The war in Ukraine has both legitimized and popularized the efforts of many founders in the defense tech industry, especially Palmer Luckey, the founder of Anduril. The Gundo founders speak of Luckey often and reverentially. In 2017, Luckey left Facebook. He has said he was fired for supporting Donald Trump. (Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg denied that politics was a factor in Luckey’s departure.) Today, he is vindicated: His company has been awarded multiple lucrative military contracts. This year it is seeking a $12.5 billion valuation. Politically, Luckey is hardly a rarity. In recent weeks many of Silicon Valley’s most influential venture capitalists have rallied behind the former president, including Marc Andreessen and Ben Horowitz, Sequoia partner Shaun Maguire, and All-In podcast hosts David Sacks and Chamath Palihapitiya. (Sacks and Palihapitiya were reportedly both instrumental in helping Trump pick JD Vance, who had a stint in venture capital, as his running mate.) It is felt that Trump is an essential player in Silicon Valley’s investments in defense JUST ABOUT EVERY “We’re sick of NIHILISM AND GOOFY SOFTWARE PRODUCTS.... Right now, Gundo is for hard tech what Florence was for art during the Renaissance.” 42 VA N I T Y FA I R tech. But during my conversations in El Segundo, Trump came up only twice. When I asked Froh if he supported Trump in the 2020 election, he told me he couldn’t remember who he voted for. Fil Aronshtein, the voluble and charismatic founder and CEO of Dirac—an “anti-software software company” that generates assembly instructions for industrial manufacturers—told me that Trump was early to the idea that China would someday figure as the United States’ greatest threat. Like many of the Gundo founders, the threat of the “Great Red Dragon” weighs heavy on Aronshtein’s mind. “China wants to see the West and our way of life and democracy collapse,” he says. The El Segundo founders live in a world in which military might is a moral obligation rather than a national necessity. “Having an adversary is very interesting,” says Aronshtein. “Because it gets people to work harder.” Sometimes it seems that the El Segundo founders are acting out a studied caricature of nostalgic Americana, especially on X. At least some part of the scene is pure performance. “It’s totally intentional. You have to make it cool,” says Cameron Schiller, the cofounder and CEO of the aerospace manufacturer Rangeview. “We’re trying to bring more young people into manufacturing.” Schiller is tall and lean, with the good looks of a Hollister model. He tricked out his office with a set of concert speakers, purple and orange mood lighting, a jet engine, and a race car simulator. The founders occasionally have private discussions about whether they are posting too much on X. “We don’t want this to be a fad,” says Aronshtein. When I tell Isaiah Taylor, the 25-year-old founder of Valar Atomics, that the Gundo scene seems a little contrived, he shrugs. “Maybe we just really like America,” he says. In The Gundo, patriotism is theatrical, but it is not theater. “For me, being patriotic is like asking me if I love my mom. I don’t know why we in the US have such a hard time with that.” The tobacco products, the bench-pressing, the jumbo-size American flags, the devotion to God and country, all would be happening, he tells me, “whether or not there’s a spotlight on us.”  OCTOBER 2024
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Vanities / True Bromance Party PLANNING Putin wants Trump to win, of course, and he’s got big ideas about a new world order. Think Yalta—on Fiji By Mikhail Zygar I which moment in US history former president Donald Trump imagines when he says, “Make America great again.” He has never given a definitive answer in any speech or interview. But I know exactly which moment Vladimir Putin imagines in his own vision for Russian greatness. It is February 1945, when Joseph Stalin, Franklin D. Roosevelt, and Winston Churchill divided the world in Crimea. Three months remained before the surrender of Nazi Germany, but it was clear the Allies were winning. To determine what the world would look like after the defeat of the Third Reich, the Soviet premier, US president, and British prime minister went to the city of Yalta, a resort area on the Black Sea. Stalin achieved everything he wanted: He convinced his then allies that he should have his own “sphere of influence,” which included all of Eastern Europe—Poland, Hungary, Bulgaria, Romania, and what were then Czechoslovakia and Yugoslavia. The leaders also devised the United Nations Security Council, on which they secured permanent seats for their countries. This structure existed for the next 45 years, de facto collapsing along with the Soviet Union. Putin once called the breakup of the Soviet Union “the greatest geopolitical catastrophe of the 20th century.” Throughout his presidency Putin has said the world needs a “new I DON’T KNOW 44 VA N I T Y FA I R Yalta.” If the old world order no longer works, a new one must be invented. He began talking about this in 2007 during his famous Munich speech, in which he challenged the US-dominated unipolar world order for the first time, and has repeated the proposal many times since, including in his speech at the UN in 2015, in Davos in 2021, and in his addresses to the Russian parliament almost every year. But for a new Yalta, Putin needs suitable partners, including a US president who would agree to divide the world with him. Since Soviet times there has been a stereotype in the Kremlin: It is easier to negotiate with Republicans than with Democrats. This stems from the détente between the USSR and the US during the administrations of Richard Nixon and Gerald Ford; Jimmy Carter, the thinking goes, paid too much attention to human rights. Kremlin officials still believe that Republicans are constructive partners while Democrats are hypocrites posing as saints. At first Putin considered George W. Bush a suitable partner—after all, Bush even “looked the man in his eye” and “was able to get a sense of his soul.” But after 2004, when the US supported the Orange Revolution in Ukraine and other “color revolutions” in the former USSR, Putin began to fear that Bush wanted to overthrow him too. Moreover, the Kremlin sincerely believed that Bush wanted to become the military dictator of the world. Putin was astonished when, after Hurricane Katrina, Bush’s ratings plummeted and he did not cling to power, did not attempt to change the Constitution, did not seek a third term—the things Putin himself would be ready to do for power. Putin never trusted Barack Obama. He always believed that when American politicians talked about values, it was all hypocrisy, masking some cunning, inevitably anti-Russian plans. In 2013 Putin watched the (fictional) series House of Cards and took it as proof that he was right. All his expectations and fears were confirmed: Indeed, American politicians were cynical, cruel, and deceitful. He just needed to wait for the right person to come to power. Back in 2011 and 2012 Putin believed that the mass protests against his third term were organized and funded by the State Department under Hillary Clinton. Therefore, in 2016, he had no doubts. He saw the Democratic presidential candidate as a personal enemy. From the moment Trump was elected, the word Yalta became one of the most popular among Kremlin officials. They were confident Trump was the right person to agree to such a spectacle. This did not mean Russian authorities considered Trump their puppet—the Kremlin never had any means to influence him. Putin simply believed Trump was morally close and understandable to him: a fellow cynic who also thought that money solved everything. But the scandal over Russian interference in US elections ruined all these plans. No rapprochement occurred. Aside from a few brief meetings during global summits, Putin and Trump held only one full-fledged negotiation—in Helsinki in 2018. But now the Kremlin believes that if Trump wins reelection in November, everything will be different. It hopes he will no longer pay attention to the liberal media or the criticism of the Democrats. Furthermore, the Kremlin is certain Trump is ready (at least rhetorically) to The Kremlin harbors ANOTHER DREAM, one it sees as the ultimate revenge for the Cold War DEFEAT AND THE COLLAPSE of the USSR.
Putin is ready to be content with the role of the third partner, a kind of modern-day Churchill. Of course, he wants to secure his place on the global board of directors that is the UN Security Council and expects to be allotted his sphere of influence: the countries of the former Soviet Union. While fantasizing about the future of the US under Trump, the Kremlin harbors another dream. It sees it as the ultimate revenge for the Cold War defeat and the fall of the USSR. Putin’s current advisers are confident the US will eventually disintegrate, breaking into several pieces like the Soviet Union ultimately did. This would require the right conditions and a leader who could plunge the country into chaos. You might be surprised, but the nickname used for Trump in the Kremlin is the American Gorbachev. For them, Mikhail Gorbachev was not a democrat or a reformer. For former KGB officers, Gorbachev was a demagogue and a narcissist who desperately wanted to please the audience but had no plan of action—a president whose policies were so chaotic that the empire began to collapse, with different parts declaring their independence. This is wishful thinking, but Putin’s inner circle would like to believe Trump could become just such a president. Moreover, since American cinema is an important source of information and inspiration for Putin’s analysts, they have already received the necessary confirmation from Hollywood: Civil War, starring Kirsten Dunst, is evidence to them that the situation in the US is worsening by the day. The disaster film is treated as almost a prophecy. They are therefore convinced they are on the right track. Just a little more and Trump will agree to a new Yalta. And then the US will disintegrate and Russia will win the new Cold War. Vladimir Putin believes that his dream is not so unattainable.  AL L F RO M G E T T Y I MAG E S . dismantle the old world order and claim credit for creating a new one. The fantasies of Kremlin strategists have developed like this: A new Yalta Conference with Putin and Trump might not necessarily take place in Crimea. For greater symbolism, somewhere in the Pacific Ocean, roughly equidistant from Russia and the US, would be more suitable. My sources in Moscow, who wish to remain anonymous for security reasons, suggest that such a summit could look good on Fiji. Putin’s entourage understands that despite his ambitions, he is not like Stalin in 1945, and today’s Russia is no match for the Soviet Union. Therefore, the dreams of the current Kremlin inhabitants suggest that another participant in the new “Big Three” should be China, represented by Xi Jinping. They believe that the real Cold War is beginning between China and the US, so the upcoming “Yalta: Fiji” should formulate the rules of this confrontation. And I L L U S T R AT I O N BY M A R K HARRIS OCTOBER 2024 45
STRANGER Things The Democrats’ short hot summer of “weird” By Kase Wickman T election is shaping up to be the weirdest in history—just ask Democratic political operatives. The party of “they go low, we go high” has asterisked that slogan: This year, they go low, we go side-eye. Yes, the left’s latest talking point has emerged, and it’s passive-aggressive and petty as hell: Those Republicans are straight-up weird. On July 25 the campaign for Kamala Harris, whose brand-new THE 2024 PRESIDENTIAL 46 VA N I T Y FA I R presidential bid was off to a running start, said the quiet thing loud in a press release reacting to an interview Republican nominee Donald Trump gave to Fox News: “Trump is old and quite weird.” This was just one of the takeaways in the release, titled “Statement on a 78-Year-Old Criminal’s Fox News Appearance,” pointing out Trump’s erratic and flustered behavior and positing that “when Trump wasn’t lying, he was making threats.” Another bullet point read, “This guy shouldn’t be president ever again.” Harris has been beating the weird drum since at least 2018, when, CNN reported, she was confronted with the idea of debating Trump in a hypothetical 2020 run. During prep, she pondered how she’d respond if Trump reprised how he had behaved during his debate with Hillary Clinton in 2016, stalking back and forth and lurking over her shoulder. Harris said she’d simply turn around and ask him, “Why are you being so weird?” It’s now the Democrats’ jibe of choice toward the opposition. Jesse Lee, a former senior official in the Obama-Biden White House, tells Vanity Fair that the revived messaging matches the candidate. “There’s definitely more of an energetic and kind of feisty attitude,” Lee says of Harris’s aura compared with President Joe Biden’s. “I think it’s a smart recognition that part of how people vote, understandably, is kind of personality and just overall headspace. They don’t know every single detail of every single policy, but they have a sense of people. When you look at somebody like JD Vance…once the weirdness gets into the bloodstream and gets into the ether, everything sort of starts to feed into it. You start to see it everywhere you look. And that’s really the most effective kind of narrative and framing you could do, where it takes on a life of its own and people start to see things through that lens.” Given the quick pivot the campaign made to embracing internet culture like Charli XCX’s anointment of “Kamala IS brat,” it’s no surprise that the party has shifted to mirror Harris’s take-noshit realness too. Harris’s campaign and surrogates have effectively made the entire GOP a meme, with creators like Minnesota governor turned VP pick Tim Walz gleefully lampooning the right’s VIPs in the press. “These are weird people on the other side. They want to take books away. They want to be in your exam room,” he said of Republicans during a recent MSNBC interview. “That’s what it comes down to. And don’t get sugarcoating this—these are weird ideas.” It’s in the framing: Banning abortion and limiting the messages doctors can share with patients sound like insurmountable policy issues that little old me wouldn’t be able to impact. These guys being “in your exam room”? Weird. “I’m telling you: These guys are weird,” Walz posted alongside a clip of his appearance. According to Democratic strategist Caitlin Legacki, a former Biden I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y PA M E L A WA N G . P H O T O S F R O M G E T T Y I M A G E S . Vanities / The Campaign Trail
administration communications official, the message coming out of Walz’s mouth is effective because it casts him as the straight-man foil to the GOP’s drunk uncle at the Thanksgiving table. “He looks like a normal guy,” she says of Walz. “Just the ability for someone like him to kind of endorse that idea and say, like, ‘This is not normal behavior. These are not normal people,’ really added fuel to that fire.” It’s fitting that to compete against a former reality TV star, the Democrats have invoked the villain edit, highlighting the most outlandish and indefensible moments of the other side. In a New York Times op-ed in March, Primary Colors author Joe Klein argued that “Democrats need to stop playing nice,” calling Democrats “the party of identity politics, always sensitive to insensitivity, often to a fault.” Well, look at Harris on top of the ticket: No more Mr. Nice Guy. Though, as Lee points out, “calling somebody weird, saying they’re a little bit weird, is not the meanest thing I’ve ever heard. I’m not sure I would put that in the glovesare-off category.” The “big weirdo” theory isn’t new news—it’s a strategy based on decades of bad vibes. Media Matters deputy director of rapid response Andrew Lawrence has long held the opinion that Republicans are “weird freaks” and has peppered the phrase through his posts. While he says he feels a little vindicated, he also notes that “mockery is such an effective tool against these people.” Here’s Kentucky governor Andy Beshear after Vance commented it was “very weird” that Beshear’s first job was at his dad’s law office and that he “inherited” the governorship from his father. “What was weird was [Vance] joking about racism today and then talking about Diet Mountain Dew,” Beshear told CNN. “Who drinks Diet Mountain Dew?” Then there’s Illinois governor J.B. Pritzker side-eyeing Vance’s criticism of Harris for having no biological children: “The vice presidential candidate for the Republicans is insulting women who own cats. He has a weird view of America, honestly,” he said on CNN. In the same way someone calling your potato salad recipe “...interesting” will forever live rent-free in your mind, these little jabs make a person doubt the basic humanity of those in the running to run the country. Even Republican cheerleader senator Mitch McConnell despairs over his party’s increasing weirdness. In 2022, explaining away the GOP’s midterm election performance, he basically said, what can you do? “My view was do the best you can with the cards you’re dealt,” he said of his fellow Republicans. “Now, hopefully, in the next cycle we’ll have quality candidates everywhere and a better outcome.” No one is immune, no matter their political affiliation. Former president George W. Bush was ahead of the curve in dubbing Trump and his cohort something that happens that reinforces that, it’s really hard to get away from it. The Biden debate, going into it, [Republicans said] ‘He’s old, he’s old, he’s old,’ and then he looked old. You can’t get that out of people’s heads.” Again, it goes both ways: “And so you have Democrats saying, ‘They’re weird freaks, they’re weird freaks, they’re weird freaks,’ and then old clips of JD Vance come out talking about cat ladies.... Donald Trump talking about Hannibal Lecter like he’s a real person. All of that stuff just kind of builds on itself until it becomes a part of the zeitgeist.” Progressive voters are noticing this linguistic shift, and they’re on board. One person on X wondered why “anyone at all” would vote for a Republican. “Hateful, cruel, The party of “THEY GO LOW, WE GO HIGH” has asterisked that slogan: This year, they go low, WE GO SIDE-EYE. weirdos. Officially, he attended Trump’s presidential inauguration in January 2017. Unofficially, he reportedly turned to his companions as they left the dais and said, “That was some weird shit.” Internet culture isn’t the only thing inspiring Harris’s campaign. Modern dating parlance offers the idea of “the ick,” defined by the Cambridge Dictionary as “a sudden feeling that you dislike someone or something or are no longer attracted to someone because of something they do.” Once you get the ick, you can’t un-ick. Ever. In dating, that might mean losing someone’s number. In politics, the Democrats are hoping that voters’ ick will translate at the polls. Of course, the unified theory of ick (politics edition) is nonpartisan, as evidenced by a severe case of the ick following Biden’s presidential debate performance. As Lawrence points out, “If you’re making an attack and then there’s misogynistic and like, vibey in a weird unsettling way,” they wrote. Legacki underlines that while voters may disagree with one another on points at the policy level, there’s room for unity under the banner of pettiness. “It allows for everyone to have their own preferences and beliefs, but it underscores this idea that Republicans have become so focused on telling other people what they can and cannot do in their own homes, that it’s overshadowed every other thing that they claim to believe in,” she says. Surely, now that we’re firmly in the era of If You See Weird, Say Something, the Democratic faithful cheered when Senator Ted Cruz popped up on Fox News and said, “Kamala can’t have my guns. She can’t have my gasoline engine. And she sure as hell can’t have my steaks and cheeseburgers.” Kamala Harris is not asking for your gently used ground meats, sir. Don’t be so weird.  OCTOBER 2024 47
NOW SELENA GOMEZ is seriously in love— and making the best work of her career. With the audacious Emilia Pérez hitting theaters and Only Murders in the Building returning to TV, the actor, singer, entrepreneur, and mental health advocate talks about the climb B Y Y O H A N A D E S TA 48 VA N I T Y FA I R
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To say it’s unmistakable would be putting it mildly: You try going This moment totally tracks, Gomez’s friend and Emilia Pérez incognito sounding like Selena Gomez. costar Zoe Saldaña tells me later. “I don’t fit well in circles where “Yeah, it doesn’t work,” she tells me. “Literally one time people only want to talk about themselves. Selena’s not like I was in line for something. I was fully in disguise, and I was that,” she says. “She’ll show you 300 pictures of her little sister talking to someone. I don’t even remember what I said. And and parents and grandparents.” then the woman in front of me goes, ‘My God, it is you! I thought When Gomez’s team files out, she settles on a couch the color I heard your voice!’ ” That was years ago. “I was like, oh God, of mulled wine. She looks cozy and hale in a denim Free People what do I sound like to people? And then I also feel so silly jumpsuit and Ugg slippers. Her skin is aglow, her hair volumionce I get busted.” nous. She is, like some other stars of her magnitude, much more slight in person, her features writ delicate. Gomez redid Rare Gomez has long since given up on wigs and hats as cloaking Beauty’s offices last year and shared a carousel of photos with her devices. In the 25 years since she debuted on Barney & Friends at the age of seven, she’s actually tried to let go of every kind 425 million followers on Instagram. At the time of our interview, of disguise and be the same person in public and private. It’s a she’s taking a break from the app but hasn’t announced it to her gutsy endeavor for someone who, thanks to Instagram, has the fans—the Selenators—because she has a habit of dramatically announcing social media breaks, then logging back on less than 24 slightly scary-sounding distinction of being the most followed woman on earth. For three years Gomez has been part of the hours later to post a selfie or leave a comment somewhere. It’s one delicious hit series Only Murders in the Building, and she’s just of her more aggressively relatable habits, this inability to resist the given the rawest performance of her career in the audacious apps after boldly saying she’s done with them. “I learned not to say movie musical Emilia Pérez. Gomez plays a Mexican drug lord’s that anymore,” she deadpans. Right now, she’s trying to quietly terrified but wildly resourceful wife. When the movie hits theenjoy her time in the analog world. “I’ve been loving it,” she says aters in November, her work will surprise the many, many people calmly. “I’ve been working out. I’ve been taking care of myself. who didn’t know what a fiery actor she could be. It’s the first time I’ve had a break in a little bit. So I feel good.” We first meet in Los Angeles at the makeup company she founded, Rare Beauty. It’s a slow, gray afternoon, but Rare Beauty is flush with positivity, from the product names (lipsticks in shades like Worthy and Strong, eye shadow sticks called Integrity and Well-Being) to the little slogans on the bathroom mirrors like, “Find comfort in being rare.” It’s all completely in earnest, and the compaRARE VINTAGE Selena Gomez, ny’s products are seriously good, as are the rewards: photographed in Rare Beauty is reportedly worth $2 billion. Los Angeles on July 29, with classic Gomez’s office is bathed in white, pink, and Hollywood in mind. T HERE’S NO SHORTAGE of things to feel good about. red—it’s a bouquet of a space. When I come in, Gomez recently snagged an Emmy nomination she’s surrounded by the smiling California team Top by David Koma; that keeps her carefully calibrated days as a movie for best actress in a comedy for Only Murders, her skirt by Tom Ford; shoes by Alaïa; star, TV star, pop star, beauty executive, and mental first-ever acting nod, despite working steadily for gloves by health advocate on track. There’s a laptop on her two decades. “I freaked out,” she says happily. “I Thomasine; stockings by desk, a script for Emilia Pérez, and a list of questions went to dinner with my friends that night. Maybe Wolford; necklace for a famous friend she “met through Taylor,” whom [the voters] saw something in this past season that by Prada she’s interviewing for something later. There are they hadn’t seen before.” Fine Jewelry. personal mementos too, like family photos and a Gomez also became the most nominated Latina Previous spread: note from her 11-year-old sister, Gracie. “She’s funproducer ever in the best comedy category, thanks jacket by Alaïa; tank ny,” Gomez says warmly. She picks up the note and to the series. She had no idea she was about to set top by Commando; skirt by Saint reads it out loud: “Hi, sissy, I love you so much. The a record. “When I heard that, I felt like I made my Laurent by Anthony next time I’m here, can we do each other’s makeup dad’s side of the family proud,” she says. “It was realVaccarello; gloves ly cool to have that be a part of my story. I’m grateful and make a ‘get ready with me’ TikTok?” by Fleur du Mal. T 50 VA N I T Y FA I R OCTOBER 2024 H A I R , O R L A N D O P I TA ; M A K E U P , H U N G VA N N G O ; M A N I C U R E , T O M B A C H I K ; TA I LO R S , H A S M I K KO U R I N I A N A N D S U S I E KO U R I N I A N ; S E T D E S I G N , R O B E R T D O R A N . P R O D U C E D O N LO C AT I O N B Y V I E W F I N D E R S . F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S . HER SPEAKING VOICE IS A FAMOUSLY SOOTHING LOW HUM.

for breaking barriers. Hopefully this is not a one-time thing.” Gomez’s father, Ricardo Joel Gomez, is Mexican American. He and her mother—the former actor Mandy Teefey, whom Gomez has credited with steering her through some daunting poverty early on and inspiring her career—named her after the Tejano icon Selena and raised her in Grand Prairie, Texas. “It’s empowering and it’s alleviating,” Saldaña says of seeing Gomez make history as a Latina. “When you meet her, you get the sense that she is owning her growth and owning her life and her voice. I’m grateful that our paths have crossed.” The two of them met in Paris on the set of Emilia Pérez, a bold, heartfelt, and visually lush Spanish-language musical that’s about to have an eventful awards season of its own. The film was written and directed by Jacques Audiard. It stars Spanish actor Karla Sofía Gascón in the titular role, a brutal Mexican cartel leader who kidnaps a lawyer (Saldaña) to offer her a job: coordinating secret gender-confirmation surgery so the kingpin can transition and leave her old life behind. Gomez plays Jessi, Perez’s dormant volcano of a wife. She’s a lonely young woman and the mother of their two children who’s ferried from safe house to safe house in armored vehicles laden with security guards. As Emilia finds herself going down a different path in life, so does Jessi. She’s emboldened to break out of her shell— with all kinds of consequences. Gomez calls Emilia Pérez a “fever dream,” but it’s not as wild a leap for her as it may appear. She’s long pursued supporting roles in unconventional, sometimes risqué work by auteurs, like Harmony Korine’s endlessly zeitgeist-y Spring Breakers or Jim Jarmusch’s zombie comedy The Dead Don’t Die. “That’s intentional,” she tells me. “I’d rather be a supporting role. I’d rather have four scenes in a Martin Scorsese film than be a lead in a movie about a tomboy that comes into her own and falls in love with the boy next door. Love those movies, totally watch those movies—but that’s not something I’m necessarily interested in.” Audiard admits he was only faintly familiar with Gomez, having seen her in Spring Breakers and the Woody Allen film A Rainy Day in New York. But when she auditioned for Emilia Pérez, he knew very quickly that he wanted to hire her. As for Gascón, she was extremely familiar with Gomez, not least because she has a 13-year-old daughter who’s a superfan. “There’s something very special about her,” Gascón says of Gomez. Needless to say, her daughter was excited about the project: “She told me, ‘You better treat her well!’ ” Gomez says she signed on to Emilia Pérez largely because of Gascón, who plays the drug lord both before her transition and after, pulling off a riveting dual performance. “She actually carried the whole film, and we followed her lead when it came to anything sensitive,” Gomez says. “She challenged me. In some of our scenes, she wasn’t afraid to get in my face. And I loved it because I had to match that energy.” Both Gascón and Saldaña offered their services if Gomez ever needed help with the dialogue. The film is almost entirely in Spanish, and while they’re native speakers, Gomez herself is not. “Speaking it is not too terrible for me, but I’m not fluent. I would say that I’m okay.” She grew up speaking Spanish but lost fluency around the time she turned seven and that purple dinosaur came into her life: “I got my first job, and everything was English-dominated.” The musical part of Emilia Pérez came easier. Gomez dove into the singing and the often intense choreography, which 52 VA N I T Y FA I R meant tapping back into her pop persona. “I can sing Spanish really well,” she says, having released several songs in Spanish, including the 2021 EP Revelación. She enjoyed recording the songs for this film, which were written by French singer and lyricist Camille with Clément Ducol, but wants fans to know she doesn’t have plans to release any new music of her own at the moment. “I don’t know if I’m ready, you know?” she says. “It’s a vulnerable space. Acting has always been my first love. Music is just a hobby that went out of control. Now it is a part of who I am, so I don’t think I’m going anywhere. I’m just not ready yet.” S S HE’S STILL KEEPING tabs on the pop landscape. Gomez got a kick out of Charli XCX’s Brat—particularly the bonus track, “Spring Breakers,” naturally—and she’s going to see shows whenever she can. “I love female artists,” she says. “I’ve been to all the girls’ concerts—Billie, Dua….” And of course, she can always pick up the phone and call Taylor Swift, a longtime friend. “She is really like a big sister to me,” she says. They talk about the industry from time to time, with Gomez seeking advice on music or how to navigate new friendships at their respective levels of fame. More often than not, though, they’re just gossiping about the things that all friends gossip about and comparing notes on the latest season of Vanderpump Rules. “I’m on The Valley now,” Gomez says, referring to the latest—and deeply haunted—spinoff of the Bravo reality series. “I’ve watched every episode of Vanderpump, so I don’t care if it’s bad!” Whenever she is ready to record her own music again, Gomez also has a direct line to one of pop music’s most prolific producers: Benny Blanco. The two collaborated on the 2015 hit “Same Old Love” and the slinky 2019 track “I Can’t Get Enough,” featuring Tainy and J Balvin. In the music video for the latter song, Gomez wears silky pajamas and dances on an oversized bed; Blanco dances alongside her in a giant teddy bear suit. The two were just friends at the time, but things took a turn for the romantic in July 2023. At first, the pair were relatively low-key, but they’ve since elevated to full-tilt public adoration, sharing mushy Instagram photos and captions of one another. In his most recent public display of affection, Blanco shared a tender throwback photo of him and Gomez on the “I Can’t Get Enough” set: “i used to play a teddy bear in ur music video and now i get to b urs in real life….” Though they’ve worked together for years, fans seemed surprised that the two were dating, partly because Gomez is laid-back while Blanco, who produced hits like Katy Perry’s “Teenage Dream” and Rihanna’s “Diamonds,” is a world-class yapper. Whatever the connection is—his brash, enthusiastic openness paired with her dry humor—it clearly works. “I’ve never been loved this way,” Gomez tells me. “He’s just been a light. A complete light in my life. He’s my best friend. I love telling him everything.” In May, Howard Stern told Blanco that he hoped the two of them would get married. “You and me both,” Blanco replied. Gomez smiles at the thought of Blanco saying it so bluntly and openly. “He
SHE’S TRIED TO BE THE SAME PERSON IN PUBLIC AND PRIVATE. IT’S GUTSY FOR SOMEONE WHO, THANKS TO INSTAGRAM, HAS THE DISTINCTION OF BEING THE MOST FOLLOWED WOMAN ON EARTH. can’t lie,” she says. “After the interview, I was dying laughing. Like, ‘Anything else you wanted to put out there?’ ” Engagement rumors were flying as this story went to press, but to be clear, marriage isn’t an institution that Gomez ever wanted to rush into. Her mother gave birth to her when she was 16, and her parents were only married for a few years. “It was hard on me,” she says. “They were kids, so we were all growing up together.” Even before she began dating Blanco, though, Gomez had a firm plan in place to start a family by the age of 35. “Before I met my boyfriend, I was single for five years, with the exception of going on a few dates,” she says. “And I was like, ‘Okay, if this is the vibe, then what is the most important thing to me? Family.’” In the past Gomez has said she would be open to adopting children, partly inspired by the fact that her mother was adopted. If she hadn’t been, “I probably wouldn’t be here. I don’t know what her life would’ve been like. She and I are very thankful for how life played out.” The theme of family pops up again and again during our conversation. Gomez is a godmother to her cousin Priscilla’s two children, so she gets a front-row seat to the wonderful and sometimes brutal experience of being a parent. “She keeps it real,” Gomez says of her cousin’s candor. She’s speaking excitedly about this, then briefly pauses. All this talk of motherhood: It’s reminding her of something that’s been weighing on her. “I haven’t ever said this,” she says, “but I unfortunately can’t carry my own children. I have a lot of medical issues that would put my life and the baby’s in jeopardy. That was something I had to grieve for a while.” Gomez communicates this calmly and without sentimentality. “It’s not necessarily the way I envisioned it,” she says of becoming a parent one day. “I thought it would happen the way it happens for everyone. [But] I’m in a much better place with that. I find it a blessing that there are wonderful people willing to do surrogacy or adoption, which are both huge possibilities for me. It made me really thankful for the other outlets for people who are dying to be moms. I’m one of those people. I’m excited for what that journey will look like, but it’ll look a little different. At the end of the day, I don’t care. It’ll be mine. It’ll be my baby.” Her family isn’t pressuring her into marriage, by the way, nor is she pressuring Blanco. “We always make sure we’re protecting what we have, but there’s no rules,” she says. “I want him to always be himself. I always want to be myself.” She means that in another way too: “I’m not changing my name no matter what. I am Selena Gomez. That’s it.” G G OMEZ HAS BEEN managing not just her personal life in full pub- lic view for years, but her health as well—particularly since 2013, when she was diagnosed with lupus. She first spoke about her diagnosis in an interview with Billboard in 2015, sharing that she underwent chemotherapy to treat the chronic autoimmune illness, which causes the body’s immune system to attack healthy tissue and can cause inflammation and affect internal organs. Gomez was on her first solo tour, Stars Dance, when she was diagnosed, and had gotten through nearly 60 shows before she had to cancel the rest and get treatment. In 2017 Gomez revealed on Instagram that she had gotten a kidney transplant, sharing a photo of herself and close friend OCTOBER 2024 53
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“I’VE NEVER BEEN LOVED THIS WAY. HE’S JUST BEEN A LIGHT. A COMPLETE LIGHT IN MY LIFE.” actor Francia Raísa, who donated the vital organ. “There aren’t battles shared their stories with her. “I just started to embrace it,” words to describe how I can possibly thank my beautiful friend she says, “and I felt like it was a really good thing.” “However,” she continues, determined to add a postscript, Francia Raisa,” Gomez wrote in her caption. “She gave me the ultimate gift and sacrifice by donating her kidney to me. I am “I like to remind people that that is definitely nowhere close to incredibly blessed. I love you so much sis.” The post was surwhere I am now. My mind was not right and chemically imbalprising and frank. It included photos of Gomez and Raísa on anced, and it was really difficult. People were calling me a victim. hospital beds holding hands, as well as close-ups of Gomez’s That frustrates me, because being vulnerable is actually one of postsurgery scar. The news went viral to such an extent that the strongest things you can do. That narrative is not going to take over my life. I’m grateful every day. And I have my days like people who couldn’t name a Selena Gomez album suddenly everyone else, but I’m no victim. I just survived a lot. There isn’t had thoughts about her kidney. Later, the news that Gomez and Raísa’s friendship had been badly fractured by hurt feela part of me that wants anyone to feel sorry for me.” ings went viral too—just one example of what it means to Gomez is still on a journey with her mental health but now has tools and protocols to take care of herself. She loves using be the most followed woman in the world. Late last year the pair did the necessary repair work and are friends once more. temperature as a healing mechanism and finds cold water or While Gomez was dealing with lupus, she was also contending space heaters to be soothing at different times. She’ll also do a with serious mental health struggles, which got a close-up in the mental exercise that’s hugely helpful: “I remind myself that I’m shattering 2022 documentary My Mind & Me. The movie—directokay. I ground myself for a moment. ‘Where am I? I’m sitting ed by Alek Keshishian, who made the legendary Madonna: Truth down in the office. Everybody that I love is out there. There’s or Dare—was originally meant to be a fun, artful way to capture food. I can get something to eat. I can take a nap here before I Gomez’s 2016 Revival tour, but it quickly morphed as she began leave.’ I put myself into the present.” struggling with panic attacks, anxiety, and debilitating depression. “I’m ready for it all—it’s just now I’m properly medicated,” “At one point, she’s like, ‘I don’t want to be alive right now,’” her she adds with a laugh. former assistant, Theresa Marie Mingus, says in the documentary. Gomez donates a portion of sales from all Rare Beauty prod“ ‘I don’t want to live.’ It was one of those moments where you ucts to the Rare Impact Fund, a philanthropic hub that aims look in her eyes and there’s nothing there. It was just pitch black.” to raise $100 million for organizations dedicated to educating Gomez later attributed the devastation to the side effects of young people around the world about mental health and getting lupus. Shortly thereafter she was diagnosed with bipolar disorthem services. The fund has raised $15 million since its launch. der as well. The tour was canceled, but her mental health did not “Only around 2 percent of global health funding has historically gone to mental health,” says Elyse Cohen, the president of the improve and she suffered a breakdown in 2018. My Mind & Me is fund and an executive vice president of Rare Beauty. “And cursuch a revealing document of pain that Gomez says she got cold feet a few weeks before it was set to be released. “I asked my team rently just about 0.5 percent of philanthropic funding is given to if it was possible to pull out,” she tells me. “Lawyers mental health. When you think about the prevalence got involved, but we never took it to Apple because of this issue and how low the mobilization of funding Top by Saint everything was locked.… When the movie came out, is, there’s just such a severe gap. For us, it’s really Laurent by Anthony I didn’t look at anything for a few days, and then I was about making a difference in the space.” Vaccarello; hat by Gigi Burris scared to leave the house.” She was paralyzed by the “I know it seems impossible,” Gomez says of the Millinery; bra by thought of the movie being out in the world but found staggering $100 million goal, “but it’s important Fleur du Mal; gloves her footing again, partly because fans facing similar to me because it’s a crisis. There are a lot of people by Urstadt.Swan. VA N I T Y FA I R OCTOBER 2024 57
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“I HAVE MY DAYS LIKE EVERYONE ELSE, BUT I’M NO VICTIM. I JUST SURVIVED A LOT. THERE ISN’T A PART OF ME THAT WANTS ANYONE TO FEEL SORRY FOR ME.” from every part of the world dealing with so much who are not properly educated on it and don’t know where to go. I want it to be accessible. There’s Planned Parenthood—that’s a resource for women. I wish we had a version of that for mental health. It would be so powerful if someone was—not to be too heavy but—to try to take their life and then decided to go to a Planned Parenthood [type of facility] that was free. I have big dreams for what I would like to see.” hadn’t really seen her act. I didn’t know her shows. But, you know, Marty and I tend to overact, that’s kind of our comedic style—” “Hold on, hold on!” Short says, interrupting. “I meant that as a compliment,” Martin replies. “Oh, I see. Keep going,” Short says. “Somebody else might think, Oh, I have to compete with that, so I better be really, really funny too,” Martin continues. “But she didn’t go there in any way. Her point in the triangle was perfectly leveled. She is really good. Her energy and tone—” “What do you think when it comes to me?” Short says. On and on they go, shooting jokes back and forth. Gomez laughs when I tell her about the conversation later. “It’s a blast, isn’t it?” she says. “It’s like the show! They’ve changed my life and perspective on tons of things.” She’s become comfortable getting in on the jokes, butting in to land some punch lines of her own. “Marty and I have a riff we just do naturally, which is to deeply insult each other,” Martin says. “Selena was very polite for the first year, and then the second year she started to get into T HE NEXT TIME I speak to Gomez, it’s at the tail end of July, just it and give as good as she got.” after her 32nd birthday and her dual Emmy nods. She’s preparing Gomez is particularly excited about the fourth season because for life to get intense again, with promotion duties for both Emilia of the show’s meta quality. It follows the trio from New York to Los Pérez and the upcoming season of Only Murders in the Building. Angeles after a Hollywood executive decides to turn their story The Emmy-winning series is now on its fourth seainto a film. (Eva Longoria plays Selena’s character, son on Hulu, but the unlikely trio of amateur murder Mabel, to hilarious effect.) The fourth season also sees Dress, scarf, and sleuths—Steve Martin and Martin Short as overly drathe return of Meryl Streep as Loretta, a working actor choker by Gucci; bodysuit by Cult matic older men and Gomez as their sarcastic young who is starting to make a name for herself. Gaia; shoes neighbor—remain supernaturally funny. Short has It’s funny to think that—though Gomez is far youngby Tom Ford from said he was nervous about meeting Gomez, expecting er than her costars—she’s already an industry veteran Albright Fashion Library LA; eyeshade an unapproachable diva. Instead, he and Martin met a herself, having worked for 25 years. Only Murders feels by Lynn Paik; disarming woman excited to work with them and able like the balancing force she needed after forging stockings by Agent Provocateur. to hold her own in their esteemed company. through the last few years in particular. She clearly Throughout: hair I talked to Martin and Short about Gomez on a feels balanced in other ways too, which allows her to products by Orlando Pita Play; makeup joint Zoom call, and if you’ve never seen Only Murhandle all the work required to be everything she is. products by “It’s as simple as this,” she tells me. “I don’t want peoders, this will give you a pretty good idea of the vibe. Rare Beauty; nail “I thought she was very smart,” says Martin. “I ple to ever think I’m not grateful for what I have.”  enamel by Essie. T 60 VA N I T Y FA I R OCTOBER 2024

Photograph by SE BAS T IAN K I M GIVE AND LET GIVE MELINDA FRENCH GATES is speaking out for the rights of women and girls, embracing her role as godmother to her fellow philanthropists, and getting political, even when it’s a little uncomfortable. For Vanity Fair, French Gates opens up about her next act and highlights six other women charting their own paths of generosity By KE Z IAH WE I R 62 VA N I T Y FA I R OCTOBER 2024

D A young woman with ample ambition gave a prophetic valediction to her graduating class at Ursuline Academy. “If you are successful, it is because somewhere, sometime, someone gave you a life or an idea that started you in the right direction. Remember, also, that you are indebted to life until you help some less fortunate person, just as you were helped.” There’s something to be said for beginning with an ending—closed door, open window, as they say. The first time I meet this young woman, now the philanthropist Melinda French Gates, in a studio high above Manhattan’s financial district, she’s barreling toward the end of her fifth decade. She’s also three years out from her divorce from Bill Gates amid a pandemic in which their foundation became the controversial global face of COVID response and vaccine development. The second time we speak, a few months later, she has announced her departure from the foundation so that she might funnel her time (and $12.5 billion) into improving the welfare of women and families—the mission of her company, Pivotal Ventures. It DALL AS, 1982. 64 VA N I T Y FA I R may be a new era of valediction for French Gates, but she still evokes a high-achieving student departing her hometown with the sense that the best is yet to come. Is it too on the nose to note that French Gates requests as the soundtrack to her shoot (and suggested by her daughter Phoebe) the triumphant breakup anthems of The Tortured Poets Department? Or that the day before, when she was photographed with a glittering Van Cleef & Arpels band on her left ring finger, tabloid headlines blared news of an engagement—but that it turns out she’s not even dating that guy anymore, and furthermore, she tells me, the ring was actually a gift from herself, to herself? That when I start to ask her when she made the purchase, she answers breezily, “I think I bought it three years ago”? G IVING AWAY MONEY your family will never need is not an especially noble act,” French Gates wrote in her new Giving Pledge letter, which she released, solo, in 2021. She and Gates wrote their original founding note in 2010, when they, together with their close friend Warren Buffett, agreed to donate the majority of their copious wealth—most of it through the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation. In a 2008 Fortune cover story—French Gates’s first major profile—Buffett described the pair, calling Gates “smart as hell, obviously. But in terms of seeing the whole picture, she’s smarter.” To me, he calls her “a longtime friend,” saying “I very much admire what she is doing for women around here and around the world.” In that same profile, Gates said of his philanthropic partnership with his then wife: “I don’t think it would be fun to do on my own, and I don’t think I’d do as much of it.” (The month after the Gateses announced their divorce, Buffett resigned as a trustee of the foundation; shortly after French Gates’s resignation, Buffett told The Wall Street Journal that he had amended his will, which leaves his fortune to a charitable trust overseen by his three children.) The foundation, since its inception, has reportedly disbursed $77.6 billion in charitable aid across the global. The story of the former couple’s fortune has been as widely disseminated over the years; French Gates, though, has been more private. Her mother was a homemaker, her father an aerospace engineer—they “worked so hard to get us where we are,” she says now. While attending her Catholic girls school (its Latin motto: Serviam, or “I will serve”), she learned the programming language BASIC on her dad’s Apple II and went on to earn her bachelor’s and MBA from Duke. She took a job as marketing manager at Microsoft in 1987, at age 22—she has described the culture there at the time as “acerbic”—and at a business dinner she sat next to the CEO, nine years her senior and a newly minted billionaire. They started dating, marrying in 1994. French Gates left Microsoft in 1996, upon the birth of the couple’s eldest daughter, Jennifer, to raise their eventual three children. The foundation soon became its own time-consuming venture. “Pick your target,” Buffett advised the Gateses early on. “Once you pick your target,” French Gates explains, “it will help the other things to drop away.” Quickly their targets became preventable sickness and disease in the developing world and education Stateside. It was French Gates who read
a New York Times article about children in developing nations dying of rotavirus, malaria, and tuberculosis, which she put on Gates’s desk, and French Gates who, while volunteering in Seattle schools, saw the need for education reform. Still: “If I went into a president or prime minister’s office and I was with my ex-husband, they would turn to him first,” she says. “Unless I interrupted the conversation, they could have just kept going for the whole meeting.” Frustrated, French Gates, who describes herself as a “challenger,” took to speaking first in meetings to ensure she’d be heard. “I get that he was well-known and did great things in the tech industry, but why would they assume I knew less than him about philanthropy when we had been doing it together for almost 25 years? Why make that false assumption? That, really, was sexism.” In the early years of the foundation, “we just didn’t understand the role that gender played,” French Gates says. “But things just kept coming up for women— contraceptives, or their health, or what they wanted—that it started to make me realize we were making a mistake. If you came out with a new innovation, you couldn’t assume it got in the hands of men and women equally.” M in the Stanford Social Innovation Review this summer. (French Gates herself cites a major oversight at their foundation: “In the early days,” she says, “we knew that the biggest killers of children were pneumonia and diarrhea. And so as we worked on these vaccines, we eventually got them out there. But we didn’t talk to the industry players about the size of the packaging.” The vaccine boxes were too large to store in the refrigerators available to recipients. “You have to think all the way down the line about those problems.”) An essay accompanying the 2020 Smithsonian exhibition “Giving in America” (which the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation helped support) mapped the complex historical landscape. “Americans practicing the act of giving have tackled prejudice and racism, economic disparities, and the human suffering they cause—sometimes tentatively, and sometimes head-on,” writes Amanda B. Moniz, the Smithsonian’s curator of philanthropy. “On the flip side, the history of philanthropy also reveals how the practice can reflect and reinforce inequity.” There is enormous precarity associated with tethering personal wealth to problem-solving, subject as it is to the whims of the rarefied few. A New York Times report, for instance, recently described the charitable giving of the world’s richest person, Elon Musk, as “haphazard and largely self-serving…. The foundation that houses the money has failed in recent years to give away the bare minimum required by law to justify the tax break.” Gaining traction is an approach that allows communities in need to determine for themselves how funds are used— through mutual aid and unrestricted grants, for instance—as well as channeling giving into ventures that will lead to substantive systemic change. “Recent success engaging voters in Georgia, Arizona, and other states,” write Kramer and Phillips, “demonstrates that philanthropy can mobilize voters and empower the population to elect a more representative government that passes policies to benefit everyone.” This aligns with tactics French Gates is now embracing. “My approach to philanthropy has always been data-driven, and I think it’s important for philanthropists to set ambitious goals and measure our progress against those goals,” she wrote in her new pledge letter. “I’ve learned, however, that it’s equally important to place ODERN AMERICAN philanthropy finds its urtext in steel magnate Andrew Carnegie’s 1889 The Gospel of Wealth. “The man of wealth,” Carnegie wrote, should become the “agent and trustee for his poorer brethren, bringing to their service his superior wisdom, experience and ability to administer, doing for them better than they would or could do for themselves.” There have been critics of Carnegie’s the-rich-know-best model since its publication, but in recent years, as American poverty levels rise and structural inequality persists despite sustained increases in philanthropic donations, questions about the efficacy of strategic giving have grown louder. “Wealthy donors often lack the lived experience to understand the problems they attempt to solve and may sidestep deeper solutions that undermine their own wealth and privilege,” reads an extensive report published by the nonprofit FSG cofounder Mark Kramer and political columnist Steve Phillips “If I went into a president or prime minister’s office and I was with my ex-husband, they would turn to him first. Unless I interrupted the conversation, they could have just kept going for the whole meeting.” OCTOBER 2024 65
Bissell, a leading philanthropist over a century ago, was a staunch anti-suffragist because she believed government was men’s work, while women’s power was best wielded without political entanglements—but also because she worried that Black women gaining the vote would loosen the stranglehold wealthy white women held on that power.) “I wanted to be able to use every tool in my toolbox,” French Gates says. “Some philanthropic dollars, investment dollars—and to be able to speak about policy. The LLC gives me a lot of flexibility to do that.” This spring French Gates announced her second billion-dollar funding round through Pivotal and began to release what will total $200 million in flexible grants, including to the National Women’s Law Center, the Center for Reproductive Rights, and the nonprofit newsroom centering on women and queer people, The 19th. French Gates’s strategy at Pivotal couples data with lived experience. In 2023 her team met with six women and one nonbinary lawmaker—New York state senators Samra Brouk and Lea Webb, Arizona state representative Lorena Austin, and Florida state representative Michele Rayner among them—to discuss specific issues facing individual politicians. Brouk, the second sitting New York state senator to give birth in the last 50 years, seems to be on French Gates’s Her personal wealth is vast, but it doesn’t feel like a weight. “The weighty part,” she says,“is when you go out in the field and you see the needs of people on the ground.” 66 VA N I T Y FA I R PHOTOGRAPH BY J O O N E Y W O O D WA R D TSITSI MASIYIWA trust in the people and organizations we partner with and let them define success on their own terms. Philanthropists are generally more helpful to the world when we’re standing behind a movement rather than trying to lead our own.” One of the most important attributes she looks for when hiring for Pivotal Ventures, she says, is that the candidate is humble. “We are stepping into communities where the community knows far more than we do about a space. The team that I have around me, and will continue to hire for, has to have a lot of humility.” (She’s also, for the record, not interested in perpetuating the performative habits of apparently tireless CEOs, calling the idea of minimizing sleep “so dumb.” She aims for seven or eight hours—of the men she has encountered who claim to sleep three or four hours a night, “Some of us didn’t want to be around them! Let’s be honest!”) In 2015, unlike the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation, French Gates founded Pivotal Ventures as a limited liability company, which, while typically not tax-exempt and lacking the mandated transparency of a foundation, can lobby and participate in partisan political activity; in 2022, she added the Pivotal Philanthropies Foundation to her arsenal, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit arm to aid in grant making. (The relationship between charitable giving and politics—and women—has interesting historical precedent: Emily LOCATION UK, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Uganda PHILANTHROPIES Higherlife Foundation, Delta Philanthropies, Masana wa Afrika MISSION Support from education to disaster readiness “Physically, spiritually, mentally, I’m part of these communities,” says Tsitsi Masiyiwa, who is originally from Zimbabwe. Masiyiwa cofounded Higherlife Foundation with her husband, Strive, in 1996. Her ethos: Go where the people are. “Listen to their stories and cocreate solutions together.” Her efforts were initially spurred by Zimbabwe’s HIV/AIDS crisis. “We did not wake up with money and say, ‘We are going into philanthropy.’ It had nothing to do with money. It was a burden and a cause.” French Gates met Masiyiwa nearly a decade ago. “To see her over the years,” French Gates says, “how she’s doing her work, I’m so impressed with her and how she’s gone about it.” Masiyiwa’s newest venture, Masana wa Afrika (“the warmth of the sun embraces Africa” in Xitsonga), a grantgiving body, focuses on small community-based organizations that may be overlooked given their scale: “We think these are the forgotten champions.”
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VA N I T Y FA I R and international camps; Midwest PHILANTHROPIES Kode With Klossy, Gateway Coalition MISSION Provide technical skills for youth; ensure access to abortions and wraparound care Kode With Klossy, the free coding camp for girls and gender-expansive teens, has seen exponential growth since its founding in 2015. “It’s this ecosystem,” supermodel, philanthropist, and founder Karlie Kloss says— and a self-sustaining one: Hundreds of alums return to the camp as instructor assistants. With 3,000 scholars from 90 countries in attendance this summer, both in person and virtually, the influence has rippled into multiple curricula, a teachertraining program, and supporting alums as they prepare to enter the workforce. “She’s out there making sure that girls get a chance to fall in love with tech,” says French Gates, “and not only see themselves in this industry, but become leaders of it.” “For me it’s really: How are we thinking about the whole person in this conversation?” Kloss says. Though the two efforts of Kode With Klossy and Gateway Coalition do not overlap, this holistic view of the individual drives both initiatives. “We didn’t want to reinvent the wheel,” Kloss says of Gateway, “because so many great people have been in this space for a very long time.” in a society in which wealth disparity can be so vast—in which billionaires can exist at all— seems like a sure sign that something is broken. “I leave changing the system, on this, to other people, because it’s a T HAT WE LIVE PHOTOGRAPH BY M A EGA N GINDI H A I R , J A C O B R OZ E N B E R G ; M A K E U P , R O M Y S O L E I M A N I . H A I R P R O D U C T S , R + C O ; M A K E U P P R O D U C T S , E S T É E L A U D E R . P R O D U C E D O N LO C AT I O N B Y V E R Y R A R E P R O D U C T I O N S . F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S . KARLIE KLOSS 68 LOCATION Virtual, US, mind when we speak. “Let’s say you have a child, but Albany is two hours away, and you’re breastfeeding. Who’s going to take that baby?” The process, she says, is no different from how she began investing in venture capital, where she sought out women and people of color to learn what it was like to run the gauntlet. “I had no idea how bad it was, but the trends were extraordinarily similar.” From these conversations came ways forward. “How do we help overcome those barriers?” Paid family leave has become a major initiative, for which Pivotal Ventures has partnered with such organizations as the Bipartisan Policy Center and MomsRising. “So that a woman who is a politician gets time off at the birth of her child. She needs it, and quite frankly, the man needs it too.” In America many new fathers granted paid parental leave take less time off than they’re offered; this, French Gates says, negatively impacts parents who take the full amount. Seeing shared parenting on trips to Sweden with the Gates Foundation, she realized, “When you have a policy in place for 30 years, it changes the norm.” Beyond paid leave, French Gates is supporting organizations like the National Domestic Workers Alliance and Caring Across Generations, which are working to build a more holistic, equitable care system—childcare, yes, but care for the elderly and those with disabilities too. Her personal wealth remains, she says, “surreal.” With it, “I feel a great responsibility.” But it doesn’t feel like a weight. “The weighty part is when you go out in the field and you see the needs of people on the ground. You see how they’re struggling to make ends meet. A single mom whose mother gets sick, who used to be her childcare for her four-month-old baby, that’s what’s hard.” But to French Gates, there are answers to hard issues if you ask the right questions. “What can philanthropic dollars and/or investment dollars and/or good government policy or government resources, what can they do to help support that mom?”
PHOTOGRAPH BY M AT H E W SCOTT CARI TUNA huge policy issue,” French Gates says. “But when that policy passes, it doesn’t change my actions.” Washington State implemented a 7 percent capital gains tax for high earners in 2021, the same year French Gates permanently moved out of the 66,000-square-foot lakeside complex known as Xanadu 2.0 in Seattle’s Medina that she previously shared with Gates and into an undisclosed neighborhood where she’s pleased to finally be able to walk to stores and restaurants. “I’m not moving from Washington State because there’s capital gains tax. I took a big hit on it. That’s what’s right for society.” (French Gates advocated for widespread capital gains taxes in 2020; a Republican-led initiative to repeal the tax is on Washington State ballots in November.) For decades the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation—and its eponymous founders—steered mostly clear of partisan politics and causes, a legal mandate for the foundation and one of opportuneness for the Gateses. French Gates’s individual political donations straddle the aisle: In 2018 she gave $2,700 each to then Missouri Republican senator Roy Blunt and Washington Democratic senator Patty Murray. The following year she and Gates received the George W. Bush Medal for Distinguished Leadership, presented by the former president and first lady. A month later former president Barack Obama surprised her on her book tour with a recorded skit in which he pledged to help French Gates support girls. But this spring French Gates made her first-ever presidential endorsement, for Joe Biden. The time was right, she tells me, because she believes a second term with Donald Trump “would be dangerous” to reproductive rights and gender parity. (In response to her endorsement, Musk tweeted, “Might be the downfall of Western civilization.” French Gates saw the post: “I think it was silly.”) In July, when Biden announced he wouldn’t seek reelection, French Gates waited only two days before publicly endorsing Vice President Kamala Harris—with whom she’s worked several times, including on an agriculture initiative leading up to Harris’s 2023 visit to Africa. They were seated together at a state dinner this year. “We are like-minded on many issues,” French Gates tells me when we speak the week of Harris’s historic step-up—and they are, LOCATION San Francisco PHILANTHROPIES Good Ventures, Open Philanthropy MISSION Improve the lives of as many people as possible by helping humanity thrive In Cari Tuna’s assessment, the issues governments and companies aren’t paying enough attention to are an opening for impact. “Philanthropy, at its best, identifies society’s blind spots,” Tuna says. Originally a San Francisco–based Wall Street Journal reporter, she left the paper in 2011 to start Good Ventures, approaching her first year much like a reporter would: “I talked to hundreds of people across philanthropy, nonprofits, government, science, academia, trying to learn about the landscape.” “You can really see how her experience as a journalist has informed her approach,” French Gates says of Tuna. “She’s rigorous about looking at the data and figuring out how to be as effective as possible.” Once connected with GiveWell, she launched Open Philanthropy, a grantmaking and philanthropic advisory organization. “As you see more people coming into philanthropy, more people coming in at a younger age, I do hope we see more approaches,” says Tuna. “More people challenging the status quo, challenging the traditional ways of doing philanthropy, and thinking really hard about how to use this privilege responsibly.” OCTOBER 2024 69
She’s also, for the record, not interested in perpetuating the performative habits of apparently tireless CEOs, calling the idea of minimizing sleep “so dumb.” 70 VA N I T Y FA I R PHOTOGRAPH BY M A EGA N GINDI LOCATION San Francisco and Los Altos, California PHILANTHROPIES Breakthrough Prize in Life Sciences, Anne Wojcicki Foundation MISSION Celebrate and advance knowledge of scientific achievements “We can almost look at philanthropy like starting a company,” Anne Wojcicki says. “I can start projects that are of great interest and I can try to shift society.” The 23andMe CEO cofounded and sits on the board (alongside Priscilla Chan and Mark Zuckerberg, Sergey Brin, and Yuri and Julia Milner) of the Breakthrough Prize, an annual award for which laureates each receive $3 million—more than twice the purse of the Nobel Prize. “We should reward people for, ‘You did something amazing recently.’ ” Wojcicki’s aim to “make the science relatable” reflects French Gates’s admiration for the CEO: “I love how she talks about the example that her mom set for her—she taught Anne early on that if she didn’t like something, then she should go out and try to change it.” “Anyone can be a scientist,” Wojcicki says. “It’s not that elitist, ‘Oh, it’s only for white coats and certain types of people.’ ” What’s fun, she says, “is getting kids to recognize that potential.” S I T T I N G S E D I T O R , S A M A N T H A G A S M E R ; H A I R , C H A R L E S M C N A I R ; M A K E U P , M A R I A O R T E G A . H A I R P R O D U C T S , O R I B E ; M A K E U P P R O D U C T S , C H A N T E C A I L L E . P R O D U C E D O N LO C AT I O N B Y V E R Y R A R E P R O D U C T I O N S . LO C AT I O N : FA S A N O F I F T H AV E N U E . F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S . her kids; she did a study of the Catholic Church in partnership with professors from Notre Dame. “I really wrestled with it. But at the end of the day, I just saw too much death in the developing world. And women saying, ‘I can’t have another child because I can’t feed it. I already have five.’ To me, you have to weigh the equation. And so I finally said, well, okay, this is a man-made religion. I use contraceptives. I believe in them. So I need to speak my truth. And ultimately I did.” Still, in 2014, in a blog post for the foundation that has since been removed from the website, she wrote that “the emotional and personal debate about abortion is threatening to get in the way of the lifesaving consensus regarding basic family planning,” noting that the Gates Foundation had decided not to fund abortion measures. A decade later, to me, she says, “When you have a law on the books that helps women with their health, you don’t ever roll it back, period. You just don’t.” Already, Pivotal has partnered with Vote Run Lead, the political candidate–training program that has worked with 55,000 women, of whom nearly 60 percent have been women of color and 20 percent from rural America. In 2023 elections, winning alums included Nadia Mohamed of St. Louis Park, Minnesota, who became America’s first Somali American mayor, and Shahana Hanif, New York City’s first Muslim woman elected to the city council. Other Pivotal partners include Vote Mama ANNE WOJCICKI from paid family leave to reproductive rights. “I’m not specific about any candidate—how much money I put behind her campaign,” she says, but “I absolutely will support her.” French Gates rattles off a list of superlatives about Harris: energetic, dedicated, smart. “I could not have been more proud of the current president, Joe Biden,” she adds, “what he did, the courage and the humility to say, ‘Okay, I need to pass the baton. The time has come.’ He has worked so hard for this country over so many years, but it takes courage to step aside. He did the right thing for the country.” After years of keeping quiet on partisan issues, “It feels right to use my voice in this way because we have places in society that we need to get; quite honestly, we’re behind other high-income countries. And so now in particular to have a candidate like Kamala in the race…” she says, pausing. “She sees the issues society faces today. She’s not an old-school ‘Let’s have all males at the table.’ She sees what working couples are going through, male and female.” “We have to remind people that he stacked the Supreme Court to do exactly what happened,” she says of Trump. “We had a law on the books for over 40 years that got rolled back.” For French Gates, a practicing Catholic, the issue of abortion has been complicated. To even endorse contraceptives back in 2012, she says, “was a big decision for me.” She spoke with her parents and
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SARA BLAKELY 72 VA N I T Y FA I R LOCATION Atlanta PHILANTHROPIES The Sara Blakely Foundation MISSION Support women through education, entrepreneurship, and the arts Sara Blakely’s greatest mission is “to change the way the world sees and values women,” including women themselves. When she founded Spanx in 2000, hardly any primary patent holders were women. In 2024 she pledged to send a thousand girls, in kindergarten through sixth grade, to Camp Invention, a five-day camp put on by the National Inventors Hall of Fame with the United States Patent and Trademark Office. “She uses her platform to educate other entrepreneurs, to mentor them and say, ‘You can do this too,’ ” French Gates says. In 2019 Blakely partnered with 3DE, a nonprofit dedicated to reengineering high school education, to create a “mindset series,” inspired in part by her own integrated curriculum: Wayne Dyer cassette tapes her father gave her that encouraged visualization and manifestation. “I started crying and thought, I’ve just spent 16 years in school being taught what to think and no one has ever taught me how to think,” says Blakely. Blakely’s curriculum is now in more than 60 high schools impacting some 15,000 students, a number that will double in the coming years. Lobby, launched in 2022 to harness the political power of Democratic moms; the Pipeline Fund, which aims to strengthen a network of diverse progressive leaders with research and funding; and the States United Democracy Center, which combats disinformation and protects voting rights. From grassroots politics to philanthropic circles to the boardroom, “what I see,” French Gates says, is that “if you have multiple women versus one, they can make changes.” She has always been interested in collaboration, but over the past decade, teaming up with other women has become increasingly important: Giving circles “are a way for people to get used to giving at another level”; collaborations with women like Amal Clooney and Michelle Obama, with whom she traveled to Malawi for a campaign to end child marriage, offer a chance to raise awareness and share resources. “You start to realize, too, who’s real, who does the real work— these women are doing really deep work—and who your friends are.” There aren’t many people who come close to sharing French Gates’s position: a former member of a powerful tech and philanthropic partnership who underwent a very public divorce. “I don’t think you ever get comfortable with it,” she says of having her personal life on display. (French Gates has said a variety of factors went into the decision to separate, but Gates’s relationship with Jeffrey Epstein—which Gates has said he regrets—and his affair with a Microsoft employee in 2000, which was the subject of a 2019 internal investigation, both played a part.) One person who might understand is MacKenzie Scott, with whom French Gates partnered in 2021 to disburse a series of $10 million grants. When I ask whether Scott is someone French Gates confides in on a personal level, she’s characteristically private. “We talk about all kinds of things,” she says. “Our kids, what we’re doing in life, how we like to spend our time.” It’s a friendship, she says simply. “She’s a lovely, lovely person.” Despite her tendency toward privacy in the wake of her personal and professional endings, French Gates’s mindset is best described as whatever’s the opposite of circling the wagons. “I think the biggest difference I can make P H O T O G R A P H BY B R AY L E N DION
P H O T O G R A P H BY B R AY L E N DION CHIMAMANDA NGOZI ADICHIE is with people who are sitting on great wealth because of the tax structure in our country—if I can get them to start moving that wealth, and move it beyond the natural causes they would give to.” Outside their alma mater or the hospital that aided a loved one, would-be donors worry that they don’t know enough about various causes to give; that they may be led astray. “Sometimes you have to just demonstrate to them how easy it is,” French Gates says. “Or help them sometimes find the person that can be in their organization.” The roadblock is, again, a gendered one. “Women may want to give to different causes than their husband, but she doesn’t feel she has enough data to speak up,” French Gates says. “Money can often be tricky between a couple. But let’s say he made it and yet she’s been the one doing the philanthropy. I can sometimes help arm her with a little more data. I can help her with suggestions on the conversation.” She continues: “The other thing to keep in mind is women in this country outlive men by about a decade. So who’s going to end up with that wealth? Usually she will.” To celebrate her milestone birthday this summer, she launched a conversation series called “Moments That Make Us,” in which she interviewed women like Obama, Oprah Winfrey and Gayle King, Megan Rapinoe, and others about turning points and transitions. When I mention to her that Harris, too, turns 60 this fall, French Gates says, “You get to 60 and you are reflective. You’re at a point in life where you realize, my gosh, we all make transitions all the time. Some we wanted to make, some we didn’t expect. But I think by the time you get to 60, you’re more reflective of those. And also: What do you want to do, going forward, with your next 10 or 20 years?” After decades of working to help women, as she says, “step into their power,” French Gates appears to be leaping into her own. “I feel extraordinarily energized about the work ahead. It feels like now is the right time,” she says. “I never realized that going into my sixth decade, turning 60, could be so exciting.” “Now I’m the sole decision-maker about these resources,” she says. “So that’s just—it’s different than before. Quite honestly, it feels quite good.” “When I get a meeting now, I know it’s because of me.”  LOCATION US, Nigeria PHILANTHROPIES Purple Hibiscus Trust Workshop MISSION Foster and support African literary voices throughout the continent “It feels a little strange to use that word, philanthropy,” Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie says. The Nigerian writer, known for both her written works—like Americanah and We Should All Be Feminists— and public speaking, views her work more as a duty than anything else. “I think that success is not necessarily the natural consequence of talent,” she says. “There are many talented people who just don’t have opportunities to become successful, and so to be successful, I think, brings a kind of responsibility.” Adichie does writing workshops and teaches writing to open doors for talent— particularly African talent. “Chimamanda is truly a testament to the power of women telling their stories,” French Gates says. “By sharing her own story, she’s inspired other women to share theirs.” “Creative talent from everywhere in the world is wonderful, but obviously my heart is in Africa.” Books, Adichie says, formed her. “I like to say that literature is my religion. Growing up, I don’t know that I would be the person I am without books. And so I think it’s profoundly important that we make sure that people who want to live the life of the mind can do so.” OCTOBER 2024 73
T H E B I L L I O N A I R E ’ S THE GERMAN INDUSTRIALIST KLAUSMICHAEL KUEHNE, BORN IN 1937, IS ONE OF THE RICHEST PEOPLE IN THE WORLD, WITH MORE MONEY THAN KEN GRIFFIN, OR MACKENZIE SCOTT, OR FRANÇOIS PINAULT. WHERE DID HIS FAMILY FORTUNE COME FROM? THE NAZIS KNOW By David de Jong S E C 74 VA N I T Y FA I R R E T Illustration by Mike McQuade
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ON A THURSDAY AFTERNOON IN MID-NOVEMBER 2023, AN ELDERLY MAN WAS WALKING THROUGH HAMBURG’S OHLSDORF CEMETERY, THE WORLD’S FOURTH-LARGEST GRAVEYARD, TO VISIT THE BURIAL PLACE OF HIS FAVORITE SOCCER PLAYER WHEN HE NOTICED SOMETHING VERY WRONG. SOMEONE HAD SPRAYED “NAZI KAPITAL” (“NAZI FORTUNE”) ON THE KUEHNE FAMILY’S TOMBSTONE, IN RED AND BLACK, WHILE THE CRYPTIC TERM “M-AKTION” WAS TAGGED ON ALFRED KUEHNE’S TOMBSTONE. These weren’t just any family tombs: The Kuehne dynasty is industrial royalty in Germany. Klaus-Michael Kuehne, the only child of Alfred and Mercedes Kuehne, is the country’s wealthiest person, with a fortune estimated at $44 billion, according to the Bloomberg Billionaires Index. The 87-year-old billionaire owes his fortune to Kuehne + Nagel, the world’s largest freight forwarder, founded by Kuehne’s grandfather and Friedrich Nagel in 1890. Kuehne has used his wealth to build up a global transportation empire. He is also the largest shareholder of the German airline Lufthansa, shipping behemoth Hapag-Lloyd, chemicals distributor Brenntag, Hamburg soccer club HSV, and the company that owns North America’s Greyhound bus lines. In 2023 alone, according to Bloomberg, he stood to pocket $4.5 billion in dividends from his empire. In the context of Germany’s discreet but clubby old money, where aristocratic and industrialist heirs mingle at hunting parties or go skiing in the Alps, Kuehne is a loner. Despite his billions, he remains outside Germany’s power circles and is only spotted occasionally at financier and merchant hangouts such as Hamburg’s Übersee-Club, a century-old private members establishment founded by the city’s Warburg banking dynasty. 76 VA N I T Y FA I R Nazi graffiti on the Kuehne family gravestone at Ohlsdorf cemetery in 2023. Previous spread: Klaus-Michael Kuehne, honorary chairman of Kuehne + Nagel, boasts a net worth of about $44 billion. His father, Alfred Kuehne (inset), ran the logistics company before him, making his fortune in part by transporting looted Jewish property during World War II. Kuehne, who once described himself as “exhausting, impatient, and unpleasant” to work with, prefers to keep to himself, either at his estate and office near Lake Zurich, at his chalet in the Swiss Alps, on his yacht, or at his villa on Mallorca, to which he flies commercial. Despite having been based in Switzerland for almost 50 years, Kuehne has said his roots remain in his hometown, Hamburg, where he was born and raised. Kuehne is so devoted to Hamburg that he has become its largest private investor and philanthropist in recent years, even though he spends most of his time outside the city of 1.8 million residents, Germany’s second largest. The billionaire has invested more than 100 million euros in HSV and another 100 million euros in the development of The Fontenay, a luxury hotel in Hamburg. (He also owns the five-star hotel Castell Son Claret on Mallorca.) He has donated more than 70 million euros to the Kuehne Logistics University, a private business school in Hamburg, and gave millions to help build Hamburg’s philharmonic, which resides in a Herzog & de Meuron–designed concert hall. Kuehne is negotiating with Hamburg’s senate to finance the building of a new opera house and told the city’s largest newspaper in 2023 that his charitable foundation is willing to contribute up to 300 million euros for the construction. Kuehne’s public appearance has remained virtually the same over the years. A hulking figure in a suit, he has ice-gray hair that looks like it’s been parted with a ruler; his eyes look straight ahead; his facial features are strong, including his prominent overbite. He met his wife, Christine, a cheerful woman with short blond hair, late in life, on a holiday in the Swiss mountains. They married in December 1989 when he was 52 and she was 51. Kuehne writes poems by hand to her for their wedding anniversary and her birthday, he told the German newspaper Die Zeit. She sometimes spontaneously serenades him with arias by Puccini. Neither of them like men with beards, according to the tabloid Bild. Which is why a captain of their Benetti-built 130-foot yacht, Chrimi III (which stands for Christine and Michael), had to shave before being hired. The only person he reveres more than his wife is his late father, Alfred, whom he succeeded as Kuehne + Nagel CEO when he was 29. In 1975 Klaus-Michael and his father moved Kuehne + Nagel’s corporate seat and headquarters from Germany to Schindellegi, a Swiss hillside hamlet near Zurich, for tax reasons. The only decoration on the wall of the Kuehne + Nagel boardroom is a portrait of Alfred. “I learned the most from him,” Kuehne has said about his father. “Companies have to be managed individually—like a family business.” The thing about Alfred is that he built part of the family business profiting from P I C T U R E A L L I A N C E / G E T T Y I M A G E S . P R E V I O U S S P R E A D , S O U R C E I M A G E S : U L L S T E I N B I L D / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; H A M B U R G S TAT E A R C H I V E ; P U B L I C D O M A I N . I. A DIRTY BUSINESS
the Nazi regime’s persecution and genocide of European Jews. After Adolf Hitler seized power in Germany, Alfred and his brother Werner, Klaus-Michael’s uncle, ousted their Jewish shareholder from Kuehne + Nagel. During World War II, Kuehne + Nagel, led by Alfred and Werner, transported looted Jewish property, primarily furniture, books, and art, from occupied Western Europe to Nazi Germany as part of the so-called “M-Aktion,” an abbreviation of “Möbelaktion,” which translates to “furniture operation.” Over two years, between 1942 and 1944, almost 70,000 homes belonging to Jews in the Netherlands, France, Belgium, and Luxembourg were systematically looted after their inhabitants had been deported by train to ghettos and death camps. The task force overseeing the operation was part of a Nazi organization dedicated to appropriating property during the war, named after Alfred Rosenberg, the Nazi Party’s chief ideologue. After the war, the Kuehne brothers may have escaped punishment for their activities during the Third Reich because of their ties to American, British, and German intelligence agencies. Kuehne + Nagel had a quasi-monopoly on the furniture operation, according to Frank Bajohr, head of the Center for Holocaust Studies at the Institute of Contemporary History in Munich. “Even in the most remote places, the company doing the furniture transports was always Kuehne + Nagel,” says Bajohr. “Kuehne + Nagel is in the same category of firms like the ones that sold Zyklon B for use in the gas chambers or that built the crematoria in the extermination camps. Transporting the stolen goods of people after they were deported,” he adds, “is a kind of dirty business far beyond anything I can comprehend.” Yet the role of Klaus-Michael Kuehne’s firm and family in the Third Reich is little known to the outside world. Big German firms such as Deutsche Bank, Volkswagen, and Bertelsmann opened their archives years ago to allow historians to examine their own lucrative Nazi collaborations. The commissioned studies unearthed that Deutsche Bank aided the expropriation of hundreds of Jewish-owned businesses and helped finance the construction of Auschwitz; that tens of thousands of men and women were used as forced and slave laborers to mass-produce weapons at the Volkswagen factory; and that Bertelsmann published antisemitic literature and exploited Jewish slave labor. In 2000 the three firms joined more than 6,500 German companies, including Kuehne + Nagel, in agreeing to pay about $2.5 billion to a reparations fund that provided financial compensation to surviving forced and slave laborers. But Kuehne + Nagel has never opened its archives. In 2022 Kuehne told the Swiss newspaper SonntagsZeitung that no company documents from the Nazi era were available, claiming that the company archives in Hamburg and Bremen were destroyed by Allied bombings in World War II. An index of German company archives from freedom and independence, according to people familiar with the matter. But when the final result was sent to Kuehne in early 2015, including a chapter on the activities of his father, uncle, and firm during the Third Reich, he refused to have the study published. Kuehne rejected the study by saying “my father wasn’t a Nazi” during a phone conference, according to people familiar with the conversation. When the researchers refused to change the chapter, according to these sources, Kuehne said the study wouldn’t be published and ended the call. The 180-page study, contractually owned by Kuehne + Nagel, “KUEHNE’S STANCE PLACES HIM IN THE RANKS OF THOSE WHO WANT TO ‘EXONERATE’ GERMAN HISTORY FROM ITS NAZI PAST.” the 1990s shows that at least 10 meters (30 feet) of archival files should be present at Kuehne + Nagel. This most likely includes material from before and during World War II, as the collection begins in 1902, according to Kuehne + Nagel’s index page. “Use only possible with management approval,” it says on the page. Kuehne also said in the SonntagsZeitung interview that he finds commissioning independent historians to investigate his company history akin to blackmail. “We were approached by some who would have liked to do this and they asked for several hundred thousand euros. They said we were obliged to do it. I found that almost a bit extortionate,” Kuehne told the Swiss newspaper. “So I said, ‘We won’t do that. We have nothing to hide, we acknowledge our guilt.’ ” What Kuehne has not explained is why he won’t release the study that sources say he commissioned. In early 2014 Kuehne commissioned Handelsblatt Research Institute, the independent research arm of German newspaper Handelsblatt, to conduct a study of his family firm’s entire history for Kuehne + Nagel’s 125th anniversary in July 2015. Researchers were even given access to the company archive in Hamburg and a guarantee of academic remains unpublished and inaccessible. Jan Kleibrink, the managing director of Handelsblatt Research Institute, would neither confirm nor deny Kuehne’s commissioning and shelving of the study. Kuehne declined to be interviewed for this article. Dominique Nadelhofer, the spokesperson for the billionaire, his holding company, his foundation, and Kuehne + Nagel, declined to answer detailed questions sent by VF. “Mr. Kuehne was seven years old at the end of World War II and therefore had nothing to do with the war,” Nadelhofer wrote in an emailed statement. “He is now 87 years old and, again, these historical events are beyond his control.” II. THE POLITICS OF MEMORY political leaders have accepted moral responsibility and acknowledged the sins of the Nazi past, centering remembrance as a component of German society. But recently the country has seemed to regress. As the last witnesses to the Nazi era die FOR DECADES GERMANY’S OCTOBER 2024 77
and the cultural memory of the Third Reich fades, the right wing, increasingly mainstream, has attacked Germany’s progressive ideals. For much of 2023, the far-right Alternative for Germany (AfD) polled as the largest party, hitting an alltime high of 23 percent in the polls in December. In June 2024 the AfD won a But Kuehne’s refusal to more publicly reckon with his family and firm’s Nazi past plays into the hands of the revisionist movement, says Henning Bleyl, director of the Heinrich Böll Foundation in Bremen, a think tank affiliated with the German Green Party. He has been investigating Kuehne + Nagel’s wartime “IF KLAUS-MICHAEL KUEHNE DOESN’T WANT TO DO SOMETHING, THEN HE DOESN’T DO IT. PERIOD.” record number of votes in the European parliament elections. The party captured 16 percent of the German vote and came in second in the elections as concerns about immigration and the economy fanned voter discontent. “Hitler and the Nazis are just a speck of bird shit in over a thousand years of successful German history,” the AfD’s then coleader Alexander Gauland said in a 2018 speech. The AfD’s extremist wing is associated with antisemitism, Islamophobia, and historical revisionism, including the downplaying of Nazi crimes and denigration of the Holocaust. In May and July 2024, Björn Höcke, a leading AfD politician and founder of its extremist wing, was fined twice by a German court for using the banned Nazi slogan “Everything for Germany!” in his campaign speeches. Höcke has lamented the construction of a Holocaust memorial in central Berlin. Calling Germans “the only people in the world who planted a memorial of shame in the heart of their capital,” he has demanded a “180-degree turn” in the country’s “politics of memory.” Kuehne’s politics could be described as free-market conservative. “I believe that support for the AfD will dwindle again,” he told German newspaper Welt in 2017. “Right-wing movements have no foothold in Germany.” Since 2021 he has donated about 200,000 euros ($220,000) to the Christian conservative CDU, the establishment party for German business and of former chancellor Angela Merkel. Kuehne even once said he could envision himself voting for the left-wing Green Party. 78 VA N I T Y FA I R activities since 2015. These revisionist narratives of Germany’s past are prominently embodied by the AfD, but the far right in Germany, Austria, France, and many other European countries use historical revisionism to manipulate the narrative around the Nazi era and World War II to advance their political agenda. “Even in past decades, it was unacceptable that Kuehne refused to deal honestly with his family’s actions during the Nazi era,” said Bleyl in an interview on the roof terrace above his office in Bremen. “Now it is even more of an issue because, as I view it, Kuehne’s stance places him in the ranks of those who want to ‘exonerate’ German history from its Nazi past.” III. “A SO-CALLED ARYANIZATION” unearthed archival material by VF in Amsterdam, Bremen, Hamburg, Munich, Montreal, and Washington, DC, detail the extent of Nazi profiteering by the Kuehne brothers and firm. Alfred and Werner Kuehne began profiting from the persecution of Jews much earlier than is known: years before World War II and mere months after Hitler seized power in Germany on January 30, 1933. In late April of that year, the Kuehne brothers ousted their Jewish partner and co-owner Adolf Maass after he’d spent I N T E RV I E W S AN D N E W LY more than 30 years at the firm. Maass, 57 at the time, owned 45 percent of the Hamburg branch of Kuehne + Nagel, which he had founded in 1902 and which was the largest and most profitable part of the firm. When Friedrich Nagel died heirless in 1907, his shares went to his cofounder, August Kuehne, the father of Alfred and Werner. He died in 1932. According to a signed and dated contract in the Maass family archive in the Montreal Holocaust museum, Maass signed over his shares and claims to the Kuehne brothers on April 22, 1933, for no compensation. The reason? An alleged inability “to fulfill his capital obligations” to the Kuehnes and the company. Such accusations became a common method in Nazi Germany to oust Jewish shareholders from their own firms. “This wasn’t a free and regular business contract,” says Frank Bajohr. “The Kuehnes used the political situation for their own benefit. It’s no accident that this contract was formulated in spring 1933. Maass wouldn’t have signed this contract in the years before Hitler took power. This was a so-called Aryanization.” “The constitutional element of an Aryanization contract was that Jewish ownership was completely eliminated and that the company was handed over in its entirety to non-Jewish owners,” says Bajohr. “In this case, the Kuehnes.” Nine days after ousting Maass, the Kuehne brothers became Nazi Party members, according to their denazification files in the Bremen state archive. In the following years the Kuehnes developed their firm into a “national-socialist model company,” an honorary title that the Nazi regime awarded to Kuehne + Nagel in 1937, the year that Klaus-Michael was born. The Kuehne brothers would declare in their denazification proceedings that Maass’s “Jewish origin caused serious trouble” for the firm and themselves. The siblings claimed that Maass left voluntarily and that they “derived no personal economic advantage from dissolving the partnership.” In 1938 Kuehne + Nagel acquired the Hamburg subsidiary of the Czech transport company Alfred Deutsch. The owner was Leo Lewitus, a Jewish entrepreneur forced to sell his firm by the Nazi authorities in tandem with the Kuehne brothers. In 180 pages of correspondence during the acquisition discovered by VF in the Hamburg state archive, Kuehne + Nagel
A D O L F A N D K AT H Ë M A A S S : P U B L I C D O M A I N . B R E M E N : D PA P I C T U R E A L L I A N C E /A L A M Y S T O C K P H O T O . managers wrote matter-of-factly that the takeover was an Aryanization. The start of World War II offered the Kuehne brothers the first opportunity for foreign expansion. In the footsteps of the Wehrmacht’s military conquest of Europe, Kuehne + Nagel grew rapidly: The transportation firm went from seven branches in Germany in early 1939 to 26 branches across Nazi-occupied Europe by late 1944, according to a comparison by VF of company letterhead from the years before and during the war listing all the offices. The company says it delivered supplies to the German army. Another driver of growth for Kuehne + Nagel was an agreement with Nazi authorities to ship looted Jewish-owned property from Western Europe to Germany as part of the furniture operation, which took place from spring 1942 through July 1944. As Allied bombing raids on Germany destroyed homes and offices, the demand for household items and furniture soared. In January 1942 Hitler decided that all movable property owned by Jews slated for deportation in Western Europe was to be brought to Germany and distributed. A ledger from a Rotterdam freighter, discovered by VF in the archive of the Netherlands Institute for War, Holocaust, and Genocide Studies in Amsterdam, provides a glimpse of the enormous size of the operation. The ledger lists 360 ships commissioned by Kuehne + Nagel’s Amsterdam office between June 1942 and August 1943 on behalf of the Nazi authorities, which transported furniture across Germany stolen from Jews, according to a handwritten note accompanying the ledger. One bill of lading, for example, recorded 307 boxes of cutlery and china, 105 beds, 93 bedsteads, 91 stoves, 62 bedside tables, 32 clocks, 17 ironing boards, 11 umbrella stands, 10 deck chairs, and 2 baby carriages being shipped from Amsterdam to Bremen in December 1942. “The management at Kuehne & Nagel was well informed about the ongoing dispossession of the Jews. It is possible that the managers did not know that the owners of the property they were transporting were to be murdered. But they nevertheless facilitated the economic destruction of European Jewry,” writes historian Johannes Beermann-Schön of Frankfurt’s Goethe University. From top: Adolf Maass, who was Jewish and forced out of Kuehne + Nagel, with his wife, Käthe, in 1933. The two were killed at Auschwitz in 1944. The company was awarded for conforming to Nazi ideology in the workplace. Barbara Maass, granddaughter of Adolf, memorializes her family story to a crowd gathered in Bremen, Germany, in 2023. Kuehne + Nagel also transported looted art. It didn’t always arrive at its destination. The Office of Strategic Services, the CIA’s predecessor, discovered months after the war ended that Kuehne + Nagel had lost a 1944 shipment of 14 paintings en route from Paris to Germany. Gustav Rochlitz, a German art dealer in Paris who acquired looted art during the war, had bought the paintings from the Nazi task force in charge of the furniture operation. The missing shipment contained, among other works, seven paintings by Matisse and one each by Picasso, Modigliani, Gauguin, Cézanne, Manet, and Pissarro, according to an OSS document from August 1945 found by VF in the National Archives in Washington. Public auction records suggest that if all of these works were genuine, they would be worth tens if not hundreds of millions in today’s art market. The Third Reich and the transport of looted property during World War II made the Kuehne brothers very rich. After ousting Maass in 1933, Alfred and Werner began earning on average around 175,000 reichsmarks annually, according to their denazification files—about $3.4 million today. By 1942, when the furniture operation began, the brothers had hit their peak earnings: the equivalent of about $4.6 million each. Even though the Kuehne brothers were considered “high-ranking Nazi industrialists” by American investigators and “big time Nazis” by the British authorities after the war, both ended up being judged as mere “fellow travelers”— Nazi followers who weren’t involved in the regime’s crimes—in denazification proceedings in 1948. No repercussions followed. Their denazification files in the Bremen state C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 0 6 OCTOBER 2024 79
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How ELIZABETH PRELOGAR, America’s low-key, high-powered solicitor general, is holding the Supreme Court’s feet to the fire By C R I ST I A N FA R I A S + Photographs by A N D R E D. WAG N E R N E R A L OCTOBER 2024 81
her Supreme Court debut as the next solicitor general of the United States, Elizabeth Prelogar was walking around her Capitol Hill neighborhood with a doctor and a Rubik’s Cube. She went trick-or-treating with her two young sons, as one does when Halloween is a big deal in the family. The Senate had just confirmed her on October 28, 2021, and Attorney General Merrick Garland swore her in the next day, with her boys and husband by her side, as the Justice Department’s fourth-highest-ranking official. “It was a command performance that Mom had to be there,” she once recalled. Yet on her mind that day as she was going door-to-door was the fate of abortion rights in Texas, which the state had all but nullified with a new law, SB 8, allowing private parties to sue neighbors, doctors, or anyone else they suspected of performing or assisting a person in obtaining an abortion—at the time still a fundamentally protected right under the Constitution. “SB 8 is a brazen attack on the coordinate branches of the federal government,” she argued on November 1. “It’s an attack on the authority of this court to say what the law is and to have that judgment respected across the 50 states.” As much as she tried, General Prelogar, as the justices addressed her that morning, couldn’t convince a majority to let the US government intervene in court to protect Texans from a law “that clearly violates this court’s precEAGLE EYE edents.” It was her first exposure during Previous spread: the Biden years, as solicitor general, to Elizabeth Prelogar what has been a coordinated, long-inalways sees the bigger picture, the-making assault on abortion rights at even in the smallest the federal level. The same five conservaof details. tive justices who, in a parallel case, more or less allowed the biggest state in the South to ignore Roe v. Wade went all the way less than a year later in overruling it for the entire nation with Dobbs. There, too, Prelogar lost. As an advocate and a self-described “incorrigible optimist,” she takes those losses hard. As a human too. “It’s hard as a human who cares about the issues, and who recognizes that many of the cases that I’m litigating have profound effects on people throughout our nation,” she told an audience earlier this year. In this new, chaotic normal for reproductive freedoms—as well as for gun rights, the future of federal agencies, and other areas of the law that seem to be up for grabs—Prelogar, 44, has had to make sense of a confusing legal landscape. And she has had to be the face of a Democratic administration in front of the most conservative, and unpopular, Supreme Court in nearly a century—one remade by Donald Trump, beset by ONE DAY BEFORE 82 VA N I T Y FA I R B EFORE SHE PACKED her bags for Washington, Pre- logar was thriving with her family in Idaho—or at least adapting to the surreal early stages of the pandemic. Prelogar, her husband, Brandon, and two sons had moved from DC to Boise to stay with her mother, Jeanne Barchas, a retired schoolteacher and someone who has been a constant at key moments of her life, according to friends. Even though it was a temporary move, H A I R , N I C O L E A D A M S ; M A K E U P , A N I TA B A H R A M Y. F O R D E TA I L S , G O T O V F. C O M / C R E D I T S . O ethics scandals, and responsible for setting the American project back several decades. In her Justice Department office in Washington, DC, a vase holds the evidence of how busy the 48th solicitor general of the United States has been: In it, a collection of quills—an old-time souvenir the Supreme Court gives every advocate who argues there—serves as a reminder of her nearly four years standing up for the government. Despite this visibility and all the attention and praise she gets from people who follow the Supreme Court closely, most Americans would be hard-pressed to name one solicitor general, let alone explain what this government lawyer does. It may be the most low-key influential job you’ve never heard of, tasked with defending the United States and its interests before the high court—the only presidentially appointed officer required to be “learned in the law.” That qualification doesn’t exist for the attorney general or even the justices of the Supreme Court. Prelogar’s tenure has been especially frenzied: In the term that recessed in July alone, by one count, she argued nearly 20 percent of all the cases in which the government was involved, the highest percentage for any solicitor general in a quarter century or more. And of all the cases the court decided, her office participated in the lion’s share of them. As Chief Justice John Roberts and his archconservative supermajority have asserted dominance and made it harder for Congress and the president to govern, Prelogar has been there all along: making sure the government, if it’s going to lose, will at least lose well. Or wielding her oratory skills and legal argumentation to try to convince, at minimum, two members of Roberts’s bloc to rule for her side—or at least rule in a way where the damage to our laws and institutions is manageable. Or averted for a time. Because solicitors general tend to let their oral arguments and legal filings do the talking, Prelogar declined to speak on the record to Vanity Fair for this profile. Still, her voice comes through clearly in everything her office touches, in speeches she’s given at law schools and legal conferences, and even articles she wrote or interviews she gave long before becoming the Justice Department’s top Supreme Court lawyer. I connected with dozens of people who know her personally and professionally, whose recollections and insights reveal how this Idaho native with a sterling record, who once aspired to be a journalist and happens to be a triple crown beauty pageant winner, ascended to a perch once held by the likes of Thurgood Marshall, Robert Bork, and Elena Kagan. As the nation was reeling from Dobbs, back in her hometown of Boise a couple of summers ago, Prelogar was asked whether she feels a sense of futility in arguing before this Supreme Court. “Although sometimes it might seem like the writing’s on the wall and that a particular outcome is preordained, there is always room to try to advocate effectively,” she said, adding, “I try never to lose hope, but rather to focus on the things that I can control, and on trying to present our case as effectively as I can.”
Idaho offered this “magical space” where the Prelogars could honorees of President Bill Clinton. Her high school teacher Russ stay connected to family and friends, Jordan Heller, who has Heller (her friend Jordan’s father, as it happens) accompanied known her since their days at Boise High School, tells me. her to DC for the occasion. He showed me a note that Lizzi wrote Elizabeth Barchas Prelogar was born Elizabeth Margaret him before she left for Atlanta on a full scholarship to Emory. “I Barchas at St. Luke’s hospital in Boise in 1980. She is the fourth only hope the professors at Emory can live up to you,” she wrote. child of the late Rudolf “Rudy” Barchas, an Idaho lawyer, and As she excelled academically, she kept busy competing and Jeanne, who worked as a special education teacher in the Boise winning the crowns of Miss Idaho Teen USA (1998) and Miss School District for more than two decades. According to people Idaho USA (2001). News stories from this period show a vibrant, who know the story, Prelogar was something of an “accidental outgoing, and undaunted Elizabeth Barchas fully immersed in the world of pageantry—one where beauty and brains weren’t mutubaby”; after her brother Eric, who is nine years older than her, was born, her mother experienced many miscarriages. The Barally exclusive, and where stereotypes, at least when speaking to chases adopted their second child, Leah, in part because they reporters, didn’t hold her back. “The kind of pageant girl that weren’t sure if they’d ever be able to conceive again after their people think of is one that I would argue doesn’t exist anymore,” she told the Idaho Statesman. Accompanying the article was a second child, Joshua Daniel, died at birth in the 1970s. collage of images from her personal pageant collection showing Prelogar has shared memories of how her mother once took her and her sister as young girls to watch their father in a big her beaming in an evening-gown competition and posing with criminal trial, remembering being members of ’NSync and erstwhile equally bored and fascinated by how beauty pageant impresario Donald the courtroom and its various actors Trump. In a sidebar the 20-year-old interact. One anecdote about her listed her guilty pleasure (chocolate PRELOGAR DREW ice cream), favorite Boise activity father that she hasn’t shared, and A CONNECTION that in some ways presages her own (jogging on the Green Belt), and fanfuture in law, is how he once served tasy job (Supreme Court justice). BETWEEN HER TIME as Jeanne’s defense attorney—and Like a good journalist in training, took her case all the way to the Idaho Barchas wrote a first-person account IN BEAUTY CONTESTS Supreme Court and won. The story is of this grueling slice of her life in the AND AS THE TOP a yarn, but suffice it to say Rudy BarAustin American-Statesman, one of chas, before his daughter Elizabeth the papers she interned at while in ADVOCATE FOR THE was born, convinced the state’s highcollege. In “Behind the Beauty,” she U.S. GOVERNMENT. est court that his wife’s misdemeanor writes of how thrilling and unglamconviction for driving with an expired orous pageant life can be—the long “IF YOU WANT TO registration “cannot be sustained.” hours of modeling and walking LOOK AT A rehearsals, the cramped bus rides, the In the 1970s, her father, a committed Democrat, went to work for Wayne endless spotlight and freebies, the criTHROUGH LINE HERE, Kidwell, at the time the newly elected ses of confidence, and “the emotional Republican attorney general of Idaho. roller coaster in constantly comparing I LIKE TO GO IN Kidwell, who is now 86, shared fond yourself to 50 accomplished, cheerFRONT OF JUDGES,” memories of “Lizzi,” whom he recalls ful, gorgeous women.” She recalled as a bright and curious child who calling her mother crying one day SHE SAID. would relish sitting on the lap of his because her strut wasn’t the best: wife, Shari, as she played the piano. “Mom, I can’t walk.” He and Barchas became good friends after he appointed him People and friends familiar with this period of her life underin 1975 to run the attorney general office’s first-ever consumer stand that participating in beauty contests was, in a way, one of a piece with her numerous awards, achievements, and drive to protection division. “I needed someone who believed in it,” he says. I found numerous newspaper clippings of Barchas suing go above and beyond, as well as a way to help pay for school. Her to end the price gouging of milk, warning Idahoans about the parents had some savings for her to pursue higher education, but it quality of coal, and taking a stand on the environmental impact wouldn’t be enough to cover Harvard Law School, where she was of cloud seeding to address drought conditions. “Rudy really admitted after finishing summa cum laude at Emory. She didn’t enjoyed being a lawyer, and he really enjoyed his job as the head go right away. She deferred three times—the first time to spend a of consumer protection,” Kidwell says. “And I’m sure that must year at University of St Andrews in Scotland on a full scholarship have rubbed off on his young daughter.” for a master’s degree in creative writing; the second to spend a Idaho is where a 12-year-old Elizabeth Barchas would get up at year in Russia studying media censorship on a Fulbright (where the crack of dawn to take a half-hour bus ride to Boise State Unishe met her future husband); and the third time to go for the triple crown in the 2004 Miss Idaho pageant, for which she spent the versity, where she took college-level courses while still a seventh grader because her school could no longer “meet her needs in year promoting A Dad Just Like Mine, a self-published children’s English and math,” according to a special education coordinator book that was inspired by her father, who was diagnosed with Parat Basin Elementary School in Idaho City. In high school she conkinson’s when she was very young and lived with it for decades. templated a career in journalism while she wrote for her student Then representative C.L. “Butch” Otter of Idaho marked and local papers. During her senior year she was one of two Idaho the occasion of this final run as Miss Idaho in the congressiostudents selected to go to White House as Presidential Scholar nal record. “Elizabeth’s platform is understanding individuals OCTOBER 2024 83
with disabilities, and I am very proud of her continued committournaments in the country; this time, she and another teamment of community service for Idaho and across the globe,” mate won the top title for the first time in Harvard’s history. he said. (In 2021 both of Idaho’s Republican senators voted for Singh, who became a dear friend and later officiated her wedding, recalled in an interview that besides her sharp writing and her confirmation.) In one Associated Press photo during the Miss America boardlegal thinking, which many students at Harvard had, what made walk parade in Atlantic City, Prelogar appears to be having the Prelogar stand out was her almost limitless level of stamina. time of her life—smiling widely as she waves to the crowd, dressed “What really set her apart, more than anybody else, is she has to the nines in a blue gown and an ornate headdress, all the while a truly remarkable ability to just focus and work for extended holding a pair of Spuddy Buddies, an Idaho potato mascot of sorts. periods of time very, very efficiently,” he told me. Elaine Metlin, now a close friend who attended her wedding This streak of excellence earned her coveted one-year judicial and has seen Prelogar argue at the Supreme Court, recalled the clerkships in Washington: first with then appeals judge Merrick “magical summer” when she hired her as a nanny, right as she Garland and then with justices Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Kagan. Prelogar has spoken fondly of each of those experiences: how was preparing to go to Harvard; she had to google her because she seemed too good to be true, and the thought of having a Miss Garland would absorb in an hour what would take her weeks America contestant as a sitter made her wary. She was stunned to research and write; how Ginsburg taught her that the law is by the search results, and all her references checked out. Prenot an abstraction but impacts real humans; and how Kagan logar’s farewell to a life of pageantry just as she was about to appreciated dissent when discussing the law with her clerks. enter her career in law seems like a lifetime ago. But appearing Speaking with a number of her former co-clerks, I learned that on NPR’s Wait, Wait…Don’t Tell Me! last year, Prelogar drew a Prelogar stood out in other ways: that she channeled Ginsburg’s connection between her time in beauvoice so well that the justice gave her ty contests and as the top advocate for more opinion assignments; and that the US government. “If you want to early in her time with Kagan, who look at a through line here, I like to go had just joined the Supreme Court “ELIZABETH DOESN’T in front of judges,” she said. after her term as President Barack Prelogar’s Idaho roots have been Obama’s first solicitor general, PreMELT DOWN. evident even in the rarefied environlogar learned she was pregnant with BUT SHE IS ment of Supreme Court oral advocacy, her first child. The baby was due in where she has defended, against all April, right as things get really busy at JUGGLING A LOAD odds, everything from pandemic-era the court. After the baby was born, she THAT WOULD CAUSE measures and key environmental went right back to work, and she made actions to affirmative action in highit work: For a time, a nursery was set MOST PEOPLE er education and Biden’s student loan up in an upstairs section of the court, TO MELT DOWN.” forgiveness program. In an exchange and her mother was in town to help. “It with Prelogar in a complicated tax was clear then how extraordinary she was,” Pamela Bookman, a Ginsburg case last December, Justice Neil Gorsuch was trying to draw a distinction between two concepts co-clerk and a law professor at Fordham University, told me, “but when he mentioned the age-old dilemma on how to pronounce I think it has been made even more clear since then.” the word potato: “Po-tay-to, po-tah-to, I sometimes wonder,” By then, working in the Office of the Solicitor General was he said. Prelogar didn’t miss a beat: “I’m from Idaho, so I love already in her sights. Neal Katyal, an acting solicitor general and that.” “You totally get that,” Gorsuch shot back. She really did, former deputy to Kagan early in the Obama administration, was among the talented lawyers who wowed her from the Supreme as the Supreme Court ended up ruling for the United States. Court lectern. The world of Supreme Court advocacy is small and insular, and so when Katyal returned to private practice, ARVARD LAW SCHOOL changed the course of Prehis firm snapped up Prelogar. “Elizabeth is already being asked logar’s life almost instantly. Once in Cambridge, for by name by my biggest clients,” Katyal told The Wall Street she ditched journalism and dove headlong into Journal in 2012. A typical six-figure sign-on bonus that year was the world of casebooks, moot courts, legal jourlarger than a Supreme Court justice’s salary. nals, and Socratic thinking. She was a rock star in But her real goal was becoming an assistant solicitor general, then dean Elena Kagan’s administrative law class, according to one of 16 career positions that are among the hardest to get in the Justice Department because spots rarely open up. But as people familiar with this period, but oral advocacy is where she truly shone. She and her teammate Tejinder Singh were finalists soon as one did in the summer of 2014, she applied. Michael in their school’s storied Ames Moot Court Competition, appearDreeben, a longtime deputy solicitor general who has argued ing before a bench that included the late Justice Antonin Scalia. more than 100 cases before the Supreme Court and was tapped In an earlier round before then judge Gorsuch, she was named as a counselor to special counsel Jack Smith, was among the first best oralist. (Her mother bought her the Theory business suit to zero in on Prelogar’s long-term goals. During a talk at Duke she wore to the finals; now, 17 years later, as solicitor general, last year, she recounted that in one of the interview rounds, it’s her go-to attire whenever she argues at the Supreme Court.) Dreeben asked her: “If you could have any job in the law, what That was not enough: Prelogar went on to compete in a would it be?” She replied: “Solicitor general.” The second part national American Bar Association appellate advocacy comof that exchange, according to people familiar with it, was petition, one of the largest and most competitive moot court classic Dreeben, who deadpanned: “That’s one of two correct H 84 VA N I T Y FA I R
answers.” Prelogar, appearing relieved but intrigued—she went in cold into the interview—asked him what the other one was. “Supreme Court justice,” he said. As an assistant, the cases she handled herself, seven in all, were not the headline-grabbing kind—those belonged to her boss or his deputies. Yet she did grab headlines in 2017, when Robert Mueller selected Dreeben, at the time the Justice Department’s leading criminal law expert, to join his special counsel team, which was investigating Russian interference in the 2016 election. Dreeben assembled his own team, focused on legal issues related to the investigation, and Prelogar was among those he handpicked to join him. Andrew Weissmann, a former top DOJ prosecutor who wrote a book about the investigation, told me of the “embarrassment of riches” that it was to have people like Prelogar help argue one of his cases against former Trump campaign chair Paul Manafort. She also worked on key sections of the Mueller report. “The legal team was in charge of the overall writing, the structure, hammering out the law, and making sure it all sounded like one voice,” Weissmann said. In self-deprecating fashion, Prelogar has recalled feeling like a fish out of water sitting at a lunch table full of hardened prosecutors as they shared war stories of flipping difficult witnesses. “I’m just sitting there, feeling this tremendous sense of, like, ‘Who does not belong at this table?’ ” she has said. “I can’t flip my kids and get them to cooperate with me.” Once the investigation wrapped and Prelogar briefly returned to OSG, as the office is known at the Justice Department, Andrew Goldstein, another Mueller prosecutor, helped to recruit her to Cooley, a Palo Alto, California–based law firm that represents the likes of Meta and OpenAI. Michael Attanasio, the chair of the firm’s litigation department, told me that Prelogar was “the ultimate draft pick” to help build a new Supreme Court practice at Cooley—and the door would be wide open should she wish to return. “We’d LETTER OF take the door off the hinges,” he told me. THE LAW At Cooley, Prelogar took on highPrelogar sifting impact pro bono work—including a through files in her office at challenge to the Trump administration’s the Department mad dash to carry out a string of federal of Justice. executions and breaking legal ground for LGBTQ+ rights in her home state of Idaho. “This was the first case of its kind,” Chase Strangio, one of the ACLU lawyers who worked with Prelogar on the challenge to an Idaho ban on transgender athletes in school sports, tells me. Yet her brief stint at Cooley coincided with Biden’s election, and returning to government held strong appeal. Like prior solicitors general, Prelogar had the prestigious legal credentials, including her clerkship with the soon-to-be attorney general. Unlike prior solicitors general, she was not exactly a creature of Washington politics, nor did she possess the C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 0 4 OCTOBER 2024 85
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F a i t h From exiled actors to academics, influencers to intellectuals, VF gets under the hood of the Catholic right’s celebrity conversion industrial complex By KAT H RY N JOYCE Illustration by MARC BURCKHAR DT OCTOBER 2024 87
On T h u r s day, M ay 30, 593 years a f t e r J o a n o f A r c wa s b u r n e d a t t h e s ta k e , C a n dac e Ow e n s c a m e t o S c o t t s da l e t o ta k e u p h e r swo r d. It was the feast day of St. Joan, and there was an evening Mass at Phoenix’s Joan of Arc Church, then a trek to the suburban Hilton, where an upstart group named Catholics for Catholics was throwing a party to welcome Owens “home.” The group, founded in 2022 to declare non-Catholic Republicans “more Catholic” than their Democratic opponents, was presenting Owens its Joan of Arc Award for “giving Christ the King his proper due.” It was a month out from Owens’s April announcement that she’d joined the Catholic Church and two months since she’d been fired by the right-wing Daily Wire. The events weren’t unrelated. As a pundit and livestream host with an audience of millions, Owens has built a career premised on outrage. Before 2016 she’d been one among many writers peddling women’s-interest hot takes. But when she leapt right that year—after liberals criticized her plan to create a registry of online trolls—she found new support on the alt-right. She made videos declaring she didn’t care about Charlottesville and urged fellow Black voters to wage a “Blexit” from the Democratic “plantation.” She wore matching “White Lives Matter” T-shirts with Kanye West just before he began praising Hitler, then stayed largely silent when he did. It only followed that Owens’s conversion would come wrapped in controversy too, namely her very public split with the Daily Wire. The controversy centered on her repeated use of the phrase “Christ is king,” a mantra with a contested legacy among Catholics but which in recent years has become associated with the young men who shout it the loudest—the far-right “groyper” movement that follows white nationalist livestreamer Nick Fuentes. Owens denounced the comparison as guilt by association, but her other recent comments—about WWII Germans being the victims of a “Christian Holocaust,” “gangs” of Hollywood Jews, and her taunt 88 VA N I T Y FA I R that the Daily Wire’s Jewish cofounder Ben Shapiro couldn’t “serve both God and money”—didn’t help her insistence that she was just making a statement of faith. In late March, the company announced it had parted ways with Owens, with one former colleague, Andrew Klavan, a Jewish convert to Christianity, suggesting she’d been fired for antisemitism, including her “Christ is King” tweets. (The Daily Wire did not respond to a request for comment.) But, Owens told her fans in Scottsdale (and more than 200,000 others who would watch online), she wasn’t prepared for how forcefully conservative Catholics rallied to her side. “The full weight of the church came upon [Klavan],” she said, noting that the phrase she’d made infamous “trended for four days.” A month later, when she posted pictures of her baptism at a Latin Mass church in London, the outpouring was comparable. Within a day, she was announced as a headliner for this fall’s right-wing Catholic Identity Conference. Within weeks, she and her husband, George Farmer—former CEO of the failed farright social media platform Parler and a convert himself—were photographed with a Catholic right podcaster at a gala fundraiser in Nashville, then later on the 60-mile Chartres Pilgrimage in France, alongside 18,000 Latin Mass devotees (including, this year, French nationalist politician Marion Maréchal). Catholic Twitter hummed with excitement. Owens wasn’t the only recent prominent convert, or even Catholics for Catholics’ first. When CFC hosted SALVATION ARMY a prayer dinner for Previous spread: former president Shia LaBeouf, Donald Trump in Candace Owens, Russell Brand, March, founder Steve Bannon, and and CEO John Yep JD Vance are just a few of the announced that one powerful players speaker, embattled within the Mormon activist movement. Tim Ballard, whose questionable claims of fighting child sex trafficking inspired the 2023 film Sound of Freedom, was considering converting too. Then there was actor Shia LaBeouf, comedian Rob Schneider, Dutch pundit Eva Vlaardingerbroek, and of course Ohio senator JD Vance, who converted in 2019, five years before he’d be named the Republicans’ 2024 vice presidential nominee. Not to mention the maybes: British actor Russell Brand, who’d begun hawking a Christian prayer app (partly funded by Vance and his Silicon Valley mentor Peter Thiel) and making videos about the rosary, and psychologist turned guru Jordan Peterson, whose wife converted on Easter and who’d been on an international speaking tour called “We Who Wrestle With God.” A bonanza of speculation arose about who might be next: Elon Musk, Tucker Carlson, Joe Rogan, Trump himself? By early spring, antiabortion outlet LifeSiteNews was publishing articles on “why ‘culture warriors’ should convert to Catholicism.” “Can you feel the energy shifting?” the conservative political advocacy group CatholicVote tweeted repeatedly. “Continue praying for conversions.” The excitement also sparked hopes that influencers might help reform a Church gone astray, since their subjects were clearly not just joining Catholicism but a highly specific version of it: one that’s spent the last decade in rebellion against a pope they disdain; one so consumed by culture war that their electoral and ecclesiastical politics can’t be teased apart; but also one that, increasingly, suspects it will win. time for the US Catholic Church. Since his election in 2013, Pope Francis—the first non-European pope in more than 1,200 years—has faced bitter opposition. His early calls for Catholics to lessen their “obsessive” focus on sexual issues marked I T’S AN ODD
him as a liberal to conservative critics; his emphasis on poverty and the environment proved him a “Marxist globalist” for the same crowd. Cardinals issued formal dubia (demands for clarification); clergy called for his resignation; some declared him an “antipope”; some prayed for his death. As the divisions reached a fever pitch in 2020, they mapped neatly onto American politics, pitting “bad Catholics” Joe Biden and Pope Francis against Trump (the non-Catholic) and the faithful remnant. Trump’s campaign recognized as much, bypassing Church bishops to court Catholics through non-establishment leaders, including many on the “radical traditionalist” fringe. Podcaster Taylor Marshall, whose 2019 book charged the pope was part of a 100-year Masonic plot to “infiltrate” the Church, was named a campaign adviser. Trump retweeted missives from the florid Archbishop Carlo Maria Viganò, who in 2018 had staged an unsuccessful papal coup—the closest the church came to schism in 500 years, says Villanova University theologian Massimo Faggioli—and who now wrote long open letters about the machinations of the “deep church.” When Trump lost, the Catholic right was a core part of efforts to overturn the election. Former campaign strategist and right-wing Catholic Steve Bannon transformed his War Room podcast into a “stop the steal” machine. Catholic groups normally focused on abortion or religious liberty joined lawsuits to block Biden’s certification. Fuentes led his groypers in that November’s “Million MAGA Bishops (USCCB) tried to pass a measure denying communion to pro-choice Catholic politicians—effectively excommunicating Biden—the Vatican blocked their plans. Pope Francis began speaking more openly, and derisively, about his American critics, calling them rigid, reactionary, backward, suicidal. He issued new restrictions on the traditional Latin Mass, the dominant form of liturgy before the mid-1960s Second Vatican Council (Vatican II) introduced various modernizing reforms. And the Church hierarchy neutralized some of the loudest voices of clerical dissent. The Wisconsin priest behind a viral video claiming Catholic Democrats would go to hell was removed from his church. Another priest, who’d once delivered a pro-Trump speech with an aborted fetus on his altar, was defrocked. Leading Pope Francis opponent Cardinal Raymond Burke was stripped of his monthly stipend and lavish Vatican City apartment. Strickland, who’d begun claiming that the pope supported an “attack on the sacred,” lost his diocese. In July, the Vatican excommunicated Viganò for fomenting schism by refusing to recognize the authority of the pope and Vatican II. None of this endeared the pope to his critics or ended the division. In February an anonymous cardinal issued a memo, styled as a job description for the next pope, accusing Francis of fracturing the Church. In May a group of lay Catholics and one priest released another document, “The Crimes and Heresies of Pope Francis,” demanding he resign or In a widely read article in May, Associated Press reporter Tim Sullivan diagnosed a Church-wide shift: Catholics were returning to “the old ways,” with Latin Mass, lace mantillas, and medieval music replacing signifiers of modernism in parishes across the country and a uniformly conservative crop of new priests supplanting older clergy once inspired by Vatican II. Two weeks later one of the traditionalist communities Sullivan profiled—Kansas’s small Benedictine College—seemed to prove his thesis, when Catholic NFL player Harrison Butker delivered the most controversial commencement address of the year. In his speech Butker advised female graduates to care more about homemaking and motherhood than careers and promotions, called Pride Month a “deadly sin,” and exhorted Catholics to abandon the “Church of Nice”—a popular epithet on the Catholic right—for the Latin Mass. Soon after, LifeSiteNews announced an October conference on the theme of “putting ‘Boomer Catholicism’ out to pasture.” neat overlay of US Church and electoral politics was becoming harder to maintain, even with the same candidates initially on the ballot. There were multiple reasons why: partly the subtle but clear differences between Biden and Pope Francis on issues from immigration to Israel; partly the pope’s refusal to increase women’s leadership in the Church; partly Trump’s strategic B Y 2024, THE A b o n a n z a o f s p e c u l at i o n a r o s e a b o u t w h o m i g h t b e n e x t : Elon Musk, Tucker Carlson, Joe Rogan, Trump himself? March,” shouting “Christ is king.” Texas bishop Joseph Strickland addressed the carnivalesque December 2020 “Jericho March” rally—widely seen as a test run for January 6—while January 6 organizer Ali Alexander announced he too was converting (to “fight the evils in Christ’s own Church”). On the day itself, a Nebraska priest exorcised the Capitol. But then their momentum seemed to falter. In mid-2021, when conservative members of the US Conference of Catholic be fired. A now suspended Texas ministry announced it had received a divine prophecy: A “usurper” sat on the papal throne. Yet the sense of impending apocalyptic schism seemed to have receded as conservatives looked ahead to an eventual post-Francis era. Across both Catholic and mainstream media, consensus grew that “the liberalizing energy” Francis had brought was dissipating, and boomers’ progressive Catholicism was facing its “last gasps.” equivocation on abortion; and partly, said Faggioli, because some bishops were becoming anxious about the Church’s association with Trumpism’s cultish third wave. There were certainly still Catholics making a strident case for Trump. On March 19, Catholics for Catholics hosted a $1,000-a-plate rosary prayer dinner at Trump’s Mar-a-Lago resort, invoking the liturgical feast day of St. Joseph—patron saint against “atheistic communism”—to OCTOBER 2024 89
“make the overdue bold proclamation that [Trump] is the only Catholic option for 2024.” Roger Stone spoke, calling himself “a Joseph R. McCarthy Catholic,” as did former lieutenant general turned QAnon hero Michael Flynn. Passion of the Christ star (and fellow QAnon booster) Jim Caviezel said, between impressions of Pope John Paul II and Ronald Reagan, “If Trump is our Moses,” Catholics must “be the tip of his spear.” There was also Trump’s drumbeat message that the Biden administration was persecuting Catholics—a claim centered on a 2023 regional FBI office memo discussing ties between “rad trad” Catholics and white nationalist extremists. The memo was written after a young, self-described “radical traditional Catholic Clerical Fascist” in Virginia was caught amassing an arsenal of homemade bombs while writing detailed threats to kill Jews. But when it was leaked, it became the subject of endless Republican charges that Biden had labeled his fellow Catholics terrorists and sent feds to infiltrate their churches. Trump whooped it up, releasing “Make America Pray Again” merch and vowing to create a task force to “fight anti-Christian bias.” Bannon’s podcast set became cluttered with Catholic iconography as he promised a coming retribution. Trump’s messianic mythos was only reinforced when he survived an assassination attempt at one of his rallies this July. Some Catholic supporters dipped into numerology, noting that the time Trump was shot corresponded to a scripture verse about putting on “the full armor of God.” Memes about divine intervention flooded Catholic Twitter—a blue-eyed Virgin Mary flicking the shooter’s bullet off its course. Catholics for Catholics declared that a campaign they’d launched in June—to have 2,024 Masses said for Trump before Election Day—could be the reason the shooter failed, and commissioned a billboard near the site of the Pennsylvania rally, bearing images of both a bloodied Trump and St. Michael the Archangel, beseeching the angel to “defend us in battle!” A week later, after Biden announced he was suspending his campaign and Vice President Kamala Harris became Democrats’ nominee instead, the Catholic right doubled down on its claims of persecution. CatholicVote launched a multimillion-dollar ad campaign in swing states to “expose Kamala’s vile hatred of Catholics”—she once challenged a Trump judicial appointee over his membership in the antiabortion, anti-LGBTQ+ Knights of Columbus—and Trump called her “the most Anti-Catholic person to ever run for high office.” But there was scant perspective on the election from the actual Church. Where bishops once weighed in on elections, said Faggioli, now it was “only the most extreme, ideological, beyond-the-fringes voices.” CFC echoed the charge: They’d stepped in because bishops were failing to steer Catholics to Trump. The USCCB no longer even released new voter guides, as it had done every four years since 1976, observed theologian Steve Millies, because they could no longer agree on enough to do so. (In June, CFC issued its own guide instead.) For Millies, a professor at Chicago’s Catholic Theological Union, all of this amounted to the Church’s “retreat from [the] public square”—a surprising claim at a time when Catholicism’s influence on US politics seems more apparent than ever. The Supreme Court that overturned Roe is dominated by conservative Catholics. The radical Project 2025 “readiness plan” for a second Trump administration was created under the Heritage Foundation’s “cowboy Catholic” president, Kevin Roberts. As the National Catholic Reporter’s Heidi Schlumpf reported last winter, right-wing strategist Leonard Leo—the devout Catholic credited with orchestrating the takeover of the federal judiciary—has declared his intent to use the same Federalist Society model to reshape American culture. Then there’s JD Vance, the onetime Never Trumper and “angry atheist” who, in the years since Trump’s first campaign, had undergone political and religious conversions—becoming both a vitriolic MAGA advocate and, in 2019, a Catholic (a decision Vance described as “join[ing] the resistance”). Vance’s nomination was greeted as the ascendancy of several overlapping reactionary movements: Silicon Valley’s tech right; the postliberal integralists who seek to re-found America as a Catholic confessional state; the New Right’s anti-administrative-state wonks; and the far right’s seamy online fringe, where bodybuilding “masculinists” meet groypers and eugenicists. This year Vance wrote a foreword for Kevin Roberts’s forthcoming book, which calls for a “Second American Revolution,” and a blurb for far-right Catholic pundit Jack Posobiec, whose new book declares liberals and leftists “unhumans” and praises dictators like Francisco Franco and Augusto Pinochet. The Catholic right was elated by the news. Bannon had already described Vance as a St. Paul figure: in Politico’s paraphrase, “the zealous convert who spreads the gospel of Trumpism further than Trump himself.” CFC summoned the Batman franchise to drive home the point: “Trump merely adopted MAGA. Vance was born into it.” The only thing that “could make it better,” CFC wrote, was if Trump converted too. But both in politics and the ways Catholics self-identify, subtler changes were taking place. For one, the storied “Catholic vote”—long viewed as a stand-in for the swinging center and thus a bellwether of national elections—was losing its predictive power. After an April poll Ac r o s s b o t h C at h o l i c a n d m a i n s t r e a m m e d i a , c o n s e n s u s grew t h at had brought progressive 90 VA N I T Y FA I R “the liberalizing wa s C at h o l i c i s m energy” d i s s i pat i n g , wa s fac i n g Pope and its Francis boomers’ “last g a s p s .”
“It’s i m p o rta n t converting teaches to? and to Is ask: it the Wh at belief in are w h at f u n da m e n ta l they re a l ly the Church principles of Christianity? Or are they converting to anti-LGBTQ s e n t i m e n t, anti-globalism, found Trump leading Biden among Catholics by 12 percent, a shocking jump from his 1 percent margin in 2020, Millies saw proof that Catholicism was following evangelicalism into nearly automatic identification with the GOP—not because liberal Catholics were warming to Trump, but because they were withdrawing from a church associated with Trumpism. (“It’s a circular thing,” said Schlumpf. “As the church becomes more conservative, it becomes less attractive to young progressives. And as more young progressives disaffiliate, what’s left is more conservative Catholics.”) To many on the Catholic right, that’s just prophecy fulfilled. For decades, conservative Catholics have predicted a winnowing of the church down to a “smaller, purer” core, as liberal clergy and laity die off or drop out. The corollary to that vision—the reason Catholic-right groups are talking about “energy shifting”—is the promise the Church won’t remain small but, once purged of internal conflict, will spark a virtuous revolution and exponential growth. But it wouldn’t be the bishops leading that revolution, since, as Millies argues, they’re no longer the ones determining “the narrative of the Church in the United States.” Instead, it’s increasingly a mix of lay movements, lay money, and the lay leaders those powers choose. When Butker’s commencement address went viral, for example, conservative Catholic media heralded him as embodying a “DIY traditionalism” with “little direct connection to Church authorities.” To the extent bishops still mattered at all, agreed Faggioli, it wasn’t because Catholics obey them, but because they’d become a sort of weather vane, reflecting changes in the culture or the influence of “Big Catholic Laymen.” Now when Church authorities weigh in on and public debates—as many did to defend Butker’s speech—it’s they who are “playing catch-up.” These lay institutions, most of which are conservative, have “inverted the authority structure of the Church,” Millies said, noting that Catholic parishes and schools are closing nationwide for lack of funds while influential Catholic outlets, like Eternal World Television Network (EWTN) or Bishop Robert Barron’s hugely popular media ministry Word on Fire, draw more donations every year. “We have become a celebrity-driven church, where the lines between entertainment and celebrity, and pastoral ministry and formation, have become as meaningless as the line between entertainment and governing in our politics.” The result was a chasm between Catholicism the Church and “Catholicism the brand,” he continued. “And what brands need are celebrity endorsers.” T’S BAD FORM in the Church to question the sincerity of someone’s conversion. After all, said David Lafferty, an independent scholar who has written for the website Where Peter Is, which covers the Catholic right, pivotal Church leaders like St. Paul and St. Augustine started off as “great sinners.” And yet, said Lafferty, “when it comes to all the influencers circling around the Church”—many of whom “make their living having opinions online” and seem more attracted to “external displays of piety” than grappling with core tenets of the faith—“it’s important to ask: What are they really converting to? Is it belief in what the Church teaches and the fundamental principles of Christianity? Or are they converting to anti-LGBTQ sentiment, anti-globalism, and anti-communism?” I anti-communism?” As 2024’s springtime of conversions became more obvious, Church officials weighed in, advising Catholics not to greet the trend with suspicion. But it’s hard not to note some similarities. Take Brand—once so synonymous with flaky religious syncretism that one of his own movies made it a punch line—who emerged as a spokesperson for the Catholic prayer app Hallow in the months after he was accused of sexual assault, abuse, or harassment by more than 10 women. Or LaBeouf, who received the sacrament of confirmation from Barron in January and who admits his road to conversion began with a lawsuit alleging he’d abused two ex-girlfriends and shot stray dogs as a Method acting exercise. Or Ballard, whose reinvention as a proto-Catholic celebrity followed detailed refutations of his claimed heroics, expulsion from the organization he founded, at least six sexual assault lawsuits, and what one lawsuit claimed was his reported excommunication from the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. (Both Brand and Ballard have denied the allegations against them. One lawsuit against Ballard was dismissed this July.) Converting, in these cases, offers some benefits, whether proof of redemption or a new army of defenders. After Brand began displaying Catholic icons in his Instagram videos and saying, on Good Friday, that he could “relate” to Jesus’s “persecution and humiliation,” traditionalist Catholics began referring to the allegations against him as “historic” and non-credible. It can also represent another form of rebranding for influencers courting new fans. As the once-liberal Brand grew an audience among the “conspiratorial right,” his “New Age beliefs only took him so far,” said C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 0 8 OCTOBER 2024 91
U Y NEARLY 50 YEARS AGO, SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE LAUNCHED A REVOLUTION THAT CHANGED COMEDY, TELEVISION, AND THE MOVIES. NOW DIRECTOR JASON REITMAN HAS RE-CREATED THE CHAOTIC HOURS BEFORE SNL’S FIRST EPISODE. LIVE FROM NEW YORK, IT’S 1975! BY ANTHONY BREZNICAN S ES 92 VA N I T Y FA I R OCTOBER 2024
The doppelgängers of Saturday Night, clockwise from top left: Cory Michael Smith as Chevy Chase, Matt Wood as John Belushi, Ella Hunt as Gilda Radner, Dylan O’Brien as Dan Aykroyd, Kim Matula as Jane Curtin, Emily Fairn as Laraine Newman, and Lamorne Morris as Garrett Morris. Opposite: the original 1975 cast.
T director Jason Reitman wants people to know about Saturday Night is that it may be about funny people—writers and performers who unquestionably redefined comedy—but it’s not intended to be a laugh riot. The movie plays out in real time over the course of about 90 minutes, and there are certainly uproarious moments, but even more tense and fraught ones. The story starts at 30 Rockefeller Center at 10 p.m. on October 11, 1975, and culminates with the first-ever broadcast of Saturday Night Live. What unfolds is a ticking-clock suspense movie. “It’s a thriller-comedy, if you can call that a genre,” Reitman says THE FIRST THING of the film, which arrives in theaters on October 11. “I always describe this movie as a shuttle launch, and the question was, ‘Would they break orbit?’ ” Nearly 50 years later, we know that the show will go on, of course, but watching the desperate scramble is unnerving nonetheless. Chaos reigns, egos clash, drugs flow, passions erupt, and pressure builds until everyone involved seems ready to feed one another’s fingertips to the wolverines. (Google that classic SNL joke if you don’t know it.) At the center of this maelstrom is the young producer Lorne Michaels, played by Gabriel LaBelle. The actor, who was 21 when he filmed it, was nine years younger than Michaels was when SNL started, which adds to the sense that the character is in over his head. “We meet Lorne as he’s still forming. He is a genius, and he has a vision beyond anyone else there—and anyone his age. It’s a lot for an actor to carry,” Reitman says. “In this movie, everyone gets to kind of screw around except for Gabe, who has to be the metronome.” This movie’s version of Michaels is not the dapper, seemingly unflappable TV maestro viewers have come to know. Reitman consulted with Michaels during preproduction but dissuaded LaBelle from trying to talk to him beforehand. LaBelle latched on to other details instead. He credits a piece of arcane Bill Murray lore for reconciling his own unraveling version of Michaels with the smooth operator he later became. “Everyone sees him as this fearless leader, this captain who’s steering the ship in the fog,” LaBelle says. “Bill Murray, when he came back to host the show 15 or 20 years after he left, said to Lorne, ‘Wow, you really figured out how to do this.’ ” (Murray is not depicted in the film, since he joined SNL in its second season, after Chevy Chase departed and started making movies.) For LaBelle, that remark underscored the fact that it took time for the SNL producer to settle into his steadiness: “He started it when he was 30. He’s now 80 and has been doing it for 50 years. Nobody knows what to do when they first start.” ATURDAY NIGHT TELLS not just Michaels’s story, but virtually everyone’s from that opening night cast and crew. “This is about not only the first seven actors, but the writers, the art department, and everybody who came S Aykroyd restrains an irate Belushi while Lorne Michaels (played by Gabriel LaBelle), Radner, and an alarmed crew look on.
Radner takes a ride on the lap of a camera operator to get a bird’s-eye view of Studio 8H before broadcast. interviewed Reitman for almost 20 years, I’ve noticed that one constant in his life and career is a fascination with the mechanics of comedy. He’s the son of the late Ivan Reitman, who produced Animal House, directed Stripes and Ghostbusters, and helped bring the wild vibes of Saturday Night Live’s stars to movie screens. Jason grew up around Aykroyd, Murray, Crystal, and Chase. He’s best known for his feature films—among them Juno, Up in the Air, and Young Adult—but that fascination with dissecting humor also inspired him to direct the 2016 short Roast Battle about the brutal camaraderie of insult comics. Reitman’s first production company was even called Hard C, based on the linguistic comedy theory that k sounds make the best punch lines. (“I don’t know if you can print this, but my example was always: ‘Punched in the dick’ is nowhere near as funny as ‘kicked H P R E V I O U S S P R E A D : © N B C / E V E R E T T C O L L E C T I O N . A L L O T H E R S : H O P P E R S T O N E / S O N Y P I C T U R E S E N T E R TA I N M E N T. “This is a movie where the villain is time. It’s like our Sauron. Our Darth Vader is a clock, and you feel its presence at all times.” together at the last second to change television,” Reitman says. “What was so unusual about this show was not only that it was live, but the format was unlike anything anyone had ever seen before. You had sketch comedy, you had two musical guests, you had a live band, you had stand-up comedians, you had Andy Kaufman, you had the Muppets, you had a film by Albert Brooks….” Many of the movie’s central characters were unknowns who became household names: Matt Wood plays the human hurricane that was John Belushi, Dylan O’Brien is a pertinacious (look that word up while you’re at it) Dan Aykroyd, Ella Hunt is the fairy-like Gilda Radner, and Cory Michael Smith achieves armor-piercing levels of sarcasm as Chase. Meanwhile, Emily Fairn’s Laraine Newman layers costumes atop each other so she can hop within seconds into the next sketch, and Kim Matula’s Jane Curtin and Lamorne Morris’s Garrett Morris bond over their shared uncertainty about what this show could be and whether they belong. Each of the Not Ready for Prime Time Players has a different arc in Saturday Night, but they end up at the same destination—together. “The whole movie is the story of people trying to figure VA N I T Y FA I R out what their identity is on the show,” Reitman says. “The story we tell is the moment each of these comedians find the way they coalesce as a group, which I think is the reason the show eventually was the success that it is.” The movie also delves into the behind-the-scenes wrangling of the NBC team that brought SNL into America’s living rooms, including Willem Dafoe as imperious NBC executive David Tebet, who must decide whether the show is fit to air live. And Nicholas Podany plays aspiring comic Billy Crystal, who’s heartsick at being cut from the first show just before it aired. “The way it’s always told is that he took the train back home and got there just in time to tell his family not to watch,” Reitman says. “This is a movie where the villain is time. It’s like our Sauron. Our Darth Vader is a clock, and you feel its presence at all times. And Billy loses to the clock.” AVING KNOWN AND Andy Kaufman (Nicholas Braun) rehearses his Mighty Mouse number; Michaels huddles with Chase and his girlfriend (Kaia Gerber). OCTOBER 2024 95
Morris showcases his pipes by singing a number with musical guest Billy Preston’s band. in the cock.’ ”) Saturday Night originated in the same lifelong curiosity. “Anyone who is a self-described comedy nerd— you’re interested in the weird chemistry of what makes something funny,” he says. An endless number of books and articles have been written about SNL, but Saturday Night is not based on any of them. Reitman and cowriter Gil Kenan researched their script by picking the brains of more than 30 original sources. “We interviewed everyone we could find that was alive from opening night,” Reitman says. “Every living cast member, every living writer, people from the art department, costumes, hair and makeup, NBC pages, members of Billy Preston’s band—I mean, anyone we could find.” Newman recalls sharing her memories with Reitman and Kenan in a video chat during the pandemic. She thinks the prospect of the movie is thrilling, even if she feels uneasy about the idea of watching “herself ” onscreen. “It’s an honor in a lot of ways, and I hope it’s well received,” she says. “I still can’t believe that anybody would be interested in us old codgers at this point, when there’s been so many great casts since then. But I understand the genesis of this thing that’s lasted for 50 years could be interesting.” Newman’s anecdote about guest host George Carlin (who’s played by Matthew Rhys) objecting to a sketch about Alexander the Great’s high school reunion became a key part of the film, and she’s grateful that Reitman focused on the strange mix of stakes they faced that night. “We were led to believe that nobody was watching—11:30 p.m. was considered just a dead time,” she says. “There was no expectation that the show would last. So really, it was like we were doing the show for ourselves. That’s what it felt like.” She answered questions not just from Reitman but also from the actor playing her, as did some of her former castmates. Garrett Morris bonded with Lamorne Morris, who’d actually been claiming to know Garrett since he was a kid. “Obviously we had the same last name, so I used to tell people that he was my dad, as a joke,” says the actor, who’s best known for Fargo and New Girl. Now that they’re friends, the 87-year-old Garrett is running with the gag. “He called me and said something about owing my mom a call because he’s not convinced that he’s not my dad,” Lamorne says. He feels there’s a genuine “Anyone who is a self-described comedy nerd—you’re interested in the weird chemistry of what makes something funny.” 96 VA N I T Y FA I R connection creatively: “Subconsciously, you are picking up cues from those before you. No matter what I do, at some point, it probably came from Flip Wilson, Garrett Morris, Richard Pryor, Eddie Murphy.” In the movie, Morris feels adrift and uncertain about this new endeavor. “Obviously, race plays a little bit of a factor in it, especially during those times when folks didn’t necessarily know if this was Lorne just trying to fill a quota,” Lamorne says. Also, Garrett was about a decade older than his costars, so there was a distance there as well. Lamorne notes that his predecessor was a Broadway singer and a playwright, among other talents: “His journey is, ‘Hey man, I got all these skills. I’ve been a part of the Civil Rights Movement. I’ve helped desegregate the acting unions. All of these things have happened to me, and here I am with all these kids telling dick and fart jokes.’ It’s like, ‘What am I doing here?’ ” Ultimately the character comes to see this strange show as ideal for his offbeat versatility. As Lamorne puts it, “He finally goes, ‘Hold on. There are a lot of things I can do, and I think this is the place where I can do all of them.’ ” He adds that Garrett made a simple request of him. “He said, ‘Tell the story as it happened. Be honest
about it. I just want the audience to know that I did not quit. I never gave up.’ ” the SNL tales that the screenwriters gathered took place in the countdown to showtime on October 11, but Reitman and Kenan took some artistic license to merge the N OT ALL OF most compelling stories into one night. That included hints of now beloved sketches yet to come, Michaels giving the Weekend Update job to Chase instead of performing it himself, and a demoralizing encounter some of the cast had with Milton Berle (played by Reitman stalwart J.K. Simmons) when the hopelessly old-school yuckster hosted the show a few years later. Some of their research took place just in time. “Three people that we interviewed have now passed away,” Reitman says, including writer Anne Beatts, costume designer Franne Lee, and production designer Eugene Lee, who also gave the filmmakers original schematics that allowed them to re-create Studio 8H in its entirety inside a soundstage in Georgia. Those designs turned out to be so accurate that when LaBelle Milton Berle (played by J.K. Simmons) rehearses a corny showgirl bit for another NBC special, leading to a clash with the brash SNL cast. Michaels and SNL writer Rosie Shuster (Rachel Sennott) attempt to coax Belushi into finally signing his contract. finally did get to meet Michaels in person, he felt an uncanny sense of déjà vu. It was in March, when Josh Brolin hosted the show and the movie production had shifted from Georgia to New York to shoot outside of 30 Rock. “We were invited to watch an SNL live,” LaBelle says. “Someone was like, ‘We’ll take you to Lorne’s office because people hang out there to watch the show.’ I remember following this person on our way there but knowing how to get there already. It was a weirdly familiar environment. You’re like, ‘I’ve been here.’ ” Seeing the real Michaels in person was a bit unreal, but it didn’t spook him. “I didn’t need to ask him anything. I didn’t need to try to hack him,” says LaBelle, whose breakthrough role came playing a variation on a young Steven Spielberg in the director’s own movie The Fabelmans. “I think it was more weird for Lorne than it was for me. I was used to that kind of weirdness of: I’m here to be you.”  OCTOBER 2024 97
LAND OF THE FREE The main residence, dubbed the Brick House, on Paul and Rachel “Bunny” Mellon’s former Virginia estate, Oak Spring. 98 VA N I T Y FA I R
A House Divided By J AMES REGINATO The Mellon dynasty has long been known for its old money refinement and discretion. But when TIM MELLON became Donald Trump’s biggest donor, many members of the family were mystified—and not afraid to talk about it OCTOBER 2024 99
“THINK OF THE BRADY BUNCH,” A MEMBER OF THE MELLON DYNASTY RECENTLY TOLD ME AS HE TRIED TO EXPLAIN SOME FAMILY DYNAMICS. stepson Tim, now 82, seemed to live by. Little ever appeared in the press about him except for a wedding announcement in 1963 and occasional articles revolving around his interests in trains and planes. Unlike other elites with access to the levers of power, he barely engaged in politics, making only roughly $350,000 in political donations between 1996 and 2017, according to The Wall Street Journal. Then in 2018 he sent $10 million to the Congressional Leadership Fund, the super PAC that runs ads on behalf of House GOP candidates. In the 2020 cycle his contributions to conservative candidates and causes totaled $70 million (including $20 million to Donald Trump). And since the start of 2022, he has poured in more than $125 million to Make America Great Again, the Trump-affiliated super PAC, and $25 million to American Values 2024, Robert F. Kennedy Jr.’s super PAC. Tim Mellon is the most consequential mega-donor of this contentious election, and the least known. reached out to MAGA world to offer his largesse, they had to research him. Reportedly, he has little interest in meeting candidates or attending events, and he communicates with some by fax. Some information came to light in 2020, when The Washington Post first reported on an e-book Tim had self-published in 2015. With the oddly punctuated and cased title panam.captain, it was an autobiography as well as something of a manifesto. In it, he wrote that Black people “became even more belligerent and unwilling to pitch in to improve their own situations” after the expansion of social programs in the 1960s, and that Americans who relied on “the government teat” were “slaves of a new master, Uncle Sam.” After inquiries by the Post, the e-book was withdrawn. On July 23 a book with the same title was released by Skyhorse, whose founder, Tony Lyons, is also a cofounder of American Values 2024, the super PAC backing Kennedy (Lyons is also Kennedy’s publisher). Apart from some reminiscences of his school days, Tim writes little about his family or his personal life. His efforts to build a railroad company and learning to fly take up most of the 171 pages. Aside from a photo of Tim as a small boy with his maternal grandparents, there are no pictures of the author. In an appendix he reveals the itinerary of a trip in which he flew around the world, his medical history (“2008–Prostate removed”), and his 20 favorite movies (number one is Casablanca; My Cousin Vinny is sixth). Via his publisher, Skyhorse, Tim Mellon declined to be interviewed for this story. But a number of Mellon family members and confidants agreed to speak. “I’m just as surprised as you are about my uncle coming out. I couldn’t believe he was mentioned in the press. He’s the W HEN TIM FIRST PLANES, TRAINS, AND AUTOMOBILES Timothy Mellon in 1981 as he was expanding his railroad empire. T I M M E L LO N : A P P H O T O . L A DY B I R D J O H N S O N , B U N N Y M E L LO N , A N D PA U L M E L LO N : T H E N E W YO R K T I M E S / R E D U X . P R E V I O U S S P R E A D : N O E D E W I T T/ O T T O . Though ’70s kitsch could hardly be further from the great banking and industrial fortune, the relative was referring to Paul Mellon and his blended family. But instead of Alice the housekeeper, more than a hundred staff members were on duty at Oak Spring, a 4,500-acre estate where the walls were adorned with masterpieces by Van Gogh, Degas, and Manet. Houseguests included the likes of John and Jackie Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip, and Charles and Diana. Paul’s wife Mary had died in 1946, leaving him with their nine-year-old daughter, Catherine, and four-year-old son, Timothy. Two years later, when he married Rachel Lambert Lloyd, she moved into Oak Spring with her two children, Eliza and Stacy III, from her marriage to Stacy Barcroft Lloyd Jr. Bunny, as Rachel was called, became known as a paragon of refinement, understatement, and discretion. “Nothing should be noticed,” she famously declared. It was an old money credo that her
most private Mellon there is. He’s been very quiet up until now,” his nephew, John W. Warner IV, told me during a phone call from his home in Virginia. One of the three children Tim’s sister Cathy had with Senator John Warner, to whom she was married from 1957 to 1973, Warner IV is a military historian and former race car driver. “My generation, and the younger generation, is unhappy about his very public support of what we think of as antidemocratic causes and candidates,” says a cousin of Warner IV. “Again and again I’ve heard dismay about him going in this direction. One of the cousins said it just makes her sick.” A highly private individual, according to some who know him, Tim Mellon divides his time between his vast properties in Wyoming and Connecticut. He’s had three wives (and four weddings) but no children. He’s “socially awkward,” and “wears old aviator glasses with tape on the bridge.” He is apparently fond of Patsy Cline, has a fascination with Amelia Earhart, and an obsession with a medieval Norwegian church. His early philanthropic giving suggests that he once had some liberal impulses. Unlike many other old money clans, the Mellons are still loaded. “175 Years Later, the Mellons Have Never Been Richer,” read a headline in Forbes, which estimates that the family is currently worth more than $14 billion. They’ve got staying power. Of America’s billionaire dynasties, only the Du Ponts have had a longer run. The family fortune originated with Paul’s grandfather, Tim’s great-grandfather, Thomas Mellon, who arrived in western Pennsylvania from Ireland at age five in 1818. After studying law in Pittsburgh, he invested in real estate and opened a bank. With his wife, Sarah Jane Negley, “The Judge,” as he became known, produced six sons and two daughters. Thus, the Mellon family tree has many branches. But Thomas and Sarah’s sixthborn, Andrew William, Paul’s father, was the real empire builder. “A.W.,” as he was known, built a colossal fortune from banking to oil to aluminum before he became secretary of the Treasury under presidents Harding, Coolidge, and Hoover. In a recent Substack essay, Robert Reich, who served as labor secretary in the Clinton administration, asserted that policies SILVER CIRCLE Lady Bird Johnson with Paul and Bunny Mellon at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC. “I’m just as surprised as you are about my uncle coming out. I couldn’t believe he was mentioned in the press. He’s the most private Mellon there is. He’s been very quiet up until now.” pushed through by A.W. in the 1920s—cutting the estate tax by half, whittling down the top income tax rate from 73 percent to 25 percent—allowed him to shift much of his fortune to his heirs tax-free, setting the stage for immense wealth and more specifically enabling his grandson Tim to bankroll the Trump campaign today. “Timothy Mellon…is the product of a tax system pioneered by his grandfather that allows the perpetuation of dynastic wealth and the maintenance of its political power,” wrote Reich. “[Yet] Timothy Mellon rages against only handouts that go to those born without silver spoons.” Echoing A.W.’s discernible politics, to his family he was domineering, cold, and distant. Paul and his sister, Ailsa, did not have a happy childhood. After their parents’ rancorous divorce in 1912, they were shuttled from one cheerless Pittsburgh mansion to another. With his first marriage to Mary Conover Brown, who graduated from Vassar and studied at the Sorbonne and Columbia, Paul was finally able to pursue his interests in art and psychology—and break away from Pennsylvania. After traveling to Switzerland to undergo analysis with Carl Jung, the couple settled at Oak Spring, an idyllic estate in the hunt country of Virginia, where OCTOBER 2024 101
Former first lady Jacqueline Kennedy visits Paris with Bunny in the late 1960s. they began to bring up Cathy and Tim. (Ailsa, who had only one child, a daughter named Audrey, with David K.E. Bruce, also became a resident of Virginia as well as New York.) But tragedy struck in 1946 when Mary, 41, died of an asthma attack. “The trauma of Mary’s death overshadowed my life for some time,” Paul wrote in his 1992 memoir, Reflections in a Silver Spoon. “I remained in a state of shock.” “Tim and Catherine adored their mother. He never got over losing her,” a cousin told me. Uniting his family with Bunny’s at Oak Spring proved difficult. Neither Paul nor Bunny were skilled parents, and the four children had very different personalities. Dinners were strained. A number of sources recall a precious 18th-century porcelain cabbage that sat in the middle of the table. Tim, they said, would often reach over it to grab something, leading an irritated Bunny to snap at him for fear he would break the cabbage. “As a little boy he was very gregarious. In time he became brilliantly mathematically minded,” Bunny observed, adding, “He has confidence, but not curiosity to branch out,” according to Burton Hersh in The Mellon Family (1978). In the same book, she noted that “Tim’s political and social mind-set, so different from Paul’s, started emerging during adolescence,” to the alarm of his father. “If Tim had [a radical idea], Paul pounced on it—‘Oh, you’ll learn better, you’d better change,’ ” Bunny recalled to the historian. The problem 102 VA N I T Y FA I R “Again and again I’ve heard dismay about him going in this direction. One of the cousins said it just makes her sick.” J A C Q U E L I N E K E N N E DY A N D B U N N Y M E L LO N I N PA R I S : M I C H A E L O C H S A R C H I V E S / G E T T Y I M A G E S . PARISIAN PERSUASION was Tim was already rich, being the beneficiary of “hundred-million-dollar trust instruments” and other bequests from his grandfather, according to Hersh’s book. “It’s hard with children who are on the same economic level. They simply don’t have to listen,” Bunny lamented. Tim made his feelings about his stepmother plain when he declined to discuss her with Hersh. “I hope you don’t want to open that can of worms,” he said. According to I’ll Build a Stairway to Paradise, Mac Griswold’s recent biography of Bunny, “Paul agreed with Bunny that Tim was a very difficult child.” Boarding school offered one solution. At age 10 Tim was enrolled at Fenn, near Boston, then continued his education at Milton Academy and Yale. Before his freshman year of college, he proposed to his girlfriend, Susan Tracy. Though “Sue” had good credentials, being a Bryn Mawr girl and the daughter of the president of Esso Standard Oil, Bunny tried to nix the wedding. According to Hersh’s book, Sue wasn’t very deferential to Bunny. At the end of Tim’s junior year, the couple won out and got married. After graduation they moved into a simple house in Guilford, Connecticut. In the early 1970s she helped him determine where his foundation, the Sachem Fund, should make donations. Recipients included the ACLU and a feminist law firm; they also helped finance an inquiry into poor housing conditions on Navajo reservations and a campaign to rebuild a hospital in North Vietnam. For three years Tim worked at the Yale computer center before he opened a business that developed systems programs for small computers for educational institutions. “He’s a quant introvert with a very smart analytical mind,” according to one of his relatives. In the early 1980s a company he founded, Guilford Transportation Industries, began buying up rail lines from Maine to Maryland, building a 3,900-mile railroad empire that would dominate New England freight traffic. In the years to come, Tim maintained limited contact with family. In the penultimate paragraph of Hersh’s book, a quote from Tim is portentous and rather chilling: “My view of families is that they’re an anachronism. The family unit is not a functioning entity anymore. It no longer
serves an economic need. I suppose it’s interesting as a social phenomenon.” the first far-right moneybag in the family. In the 1990s Richard Mellon Scaife became the principal funder of “the vast right-wing conspiracy” against Bill Clinton. Scaife was a grandson of A.W.’s younger brother, Dick. The lion’s share of Mellons still lives in Pennsylvania; many of them are Republicans, according to Warner IV, as was Paul during his lifetime (he died in 1999) even as Bunny, a fervent Democrat, became intimate with the Kennedys. “You want to know where the Mellon enclave is? It’s in Ligonier,” says Warner IV, referring to the lush rolling hills about an hour southeast of Pittsburgh. “The Ligonier crowd,” as he calls them, “[is] a mixture of conservative and liberal and everything in between.” One of those is Christopher Mellon, who is descended from The Judge’s second son, James. Christopher served as a deputy assistant secretary of defense for intelligence in the Clinton and George W. Bush administrations. Recently he made headlines when he joined a small group of former officials with security clearances who came forward to reveal secret government studies of UFOs and to sound the alarm about the security threat they pose. “He and I share the UFO extraterrestrial involvement issue,” Warner IV says about his third cousin. “He’s on the ultraconservative side, and I take the moderate side.… You know, we’re not alone. Big deal. The big deal is that the military-industrial corporate intelligence complex has been hiding the possibilities of what’s going on out there.” Most members of the A.W. branch are based in the Virginia-DC area, and almost all of them are Democrats. They also seem to think of themselves as “the true royalty” of the clan, as one member phrased it to me. This branch includes Ailsa’s grandchildren—the children of her only child, Audrey, and Audrey’s husband, Stephen Currier, himself related by marriage to the immensely wealthy Warburg family. In 1967, the couple, both civil rights activists, disappeared in a mysterious private plane crash (the wreckage was never found), orphaning Andrea, 10, Lavinia, 9, and Michael, 5. With their inheritances from Ailsa, who died in 1969 (“Mrs. Ailsa T IM IS NOT Mellon Bruce Dead; Called Richest Woman in the U.S.” read the headline of her obituary in The New York Times), and the Warburgs, the Currier children became possibly the wealthiest of the Mellon scions. Harvard-educated Lavinia, an environmentalist and filmmaker, is very involved with Tibet issues and has a close relationship with the Dalai Lama. When I interviewed her about one of her films in the late 1990s, she expressed horror over the activities of Richard Mellon Scaife: “For a liberal Democrat like myself, I’m embarrassed to be a Mellon right now, with this fellow running around.…” The Pennsylvanians and the Virginians rarely meet. Matthew Mellon, a younger brother of Christopher, was until recently the highest-profile Mellon, given his flashy lifestyle with his first wife, Jimmy Choo cofounder Tamara Yeardye, his cryptocurrency advocacy, and his battles with drug use. Nobody recognized him when he appeared at the funeral service for Eliza, Tim’s stepsister, in 2008. “He just showed up. He wasn’t invited,” a Virginia Mellon recounts. “He comes up to me, ‘Hey! It’s so great to be here for the family.’ I’m like, ‘Who are you?’ ” Matthew died in Cancún in 2018. 1980s, following his divorce from Sue, Tim married Louise Whitney, an Upperville, Virginia, native who had been a childhood friend. After she and Tim divorced in the early 1990s, Tim married Patricia Trenary Freeman, who was recently divorced from Charles “Chas” Freeman Jr., a classmate of Tim’s at Milton and Yale as well as best man at his first wedding. Chas, a diplomat, gave an interview around 1995 in which he said, “I had quite a happy marriage of 30 years with her, which broke up in the summer of 1992, in a very nasty way.” Tim and Patricia (who had three children with Chas), later divorced and then remarried. In an email to me, Ambassador Freeman commented, “Tim Mellon’s callous betrayal of our friendship was almost as hurtful as my then wife’s abandonment of me for reasons she declined to explain.” In 1998 Tim purchased brand rights to Pan Am Airways after it filed for bankruptcy; he rebranded his rail company Pan Am Railways. In June 2022 CSX announced it had completed the acquisition of Pan Am Railways. Terms were not disclosed. I N THE EARLY While the London Times has reported that Tim has a net worth of $1 billion, Warner IV says, “I’ve read that he’s worth $4.2 billion.” He further says the combined worth of the Mellon clan today is more like $25 billion. “[These families] don’t want the public to know what they’re worth.” Given his uncle’s wealth, his political donations are not huge outlays. “It’s pocket change for him,” says Warner IV. He must have spent a bundle on a most unusual project on his estate in Lyme, Connecticut, a bucolic area where Colonial-era saltbox houses are the norm. Tim’s property encompasses hundreds of acres, but passersby on a small road have been astonished to see an exact replica of a Norwegian stave church dating to the 12th or 13th century. Toward the end of the Viking period, when Norway became a Christian country, numerous stave churches were built. The wooden structures feature a series of roofs, each one offset and becoming smaller as the church reaches toward the sky. Marvels of engineering, they require an intricate system of beams and pillars. Tim decided he wanted a full-scale replica of the stave church in Borgund, Norway—which is considered the finest of the genre—erected on his property. After many reconnaissance trips to Norway, a team of skilled workmen spent years painstakingly re-creating it in Lyme. “It was an obsession of his. It’s the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen,” I was told by one of the apparently very few people who has seen it up close. “He doesn’t want anyone to see it.” “I know people who have gone down that road to look at it and he’s chased them out of there,” a local told me. In the majestic but sparsely populated south of Wyoming, where Tim bought a vast ranch in 2005, he suffers no interlopers. “I can think of no place on earth more quiet and peaceful and conducive to easy concentration,” he writes in panam.captain. In his golden years Tim has the wherewithal to finance passion projects. In 2012 he donated stock valued at more than $1 million to the International Group for Historic Aircraft Recovery, to help finance their search for the remains of Amelia Earhart’s plane. After the expedition failed C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 0 7 OCTOBER 2024 103
The General C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 8 5 kind of background—like work in the White House or other high-profile political appointments— to serve as her calling card. Donald Verrilli, who served as Obama’s second solicitor general and hired her in 2014, is said to have inspired her to work for the new administration. Some six-plus years later, according to people familiar with this period, Prelogar threw her hat in the ring and submitted her résumé to the Biden-Harris transition team, hoping for the best. She didn’t hear back from the transition team until before the holidays, when a person interviewed her for possible service. With less than a week before the start of the new administration, Prelogar was offered the job of principal deputy solicitor general. A source familiar with the DOJ transition told me that a number of people “who are extraordinarily well respected were pushing for Elizabeth” to land in this position on day one of the Biden years. As Prelogar was divesting from all her cases and preparing to fly back to Washington to start her biggest job yet, Strangio was among those she called to break the news. He recalls a previous conversation in which she said, “There’s only one or two jobs in government that I would leave for.” Defending the government’s interests in the Supreme Court was one of them. day of the Biden presidency, before she had fully moved into her office at the Justice Department, Prelogar received an urgent call from one of her deputies. He told her that a federal agency was interested in greenlighting an important action at the start of the new administration. There was one wrinkle: The proposed action could have ramifications for a pending Supreme Court matter—one in which the Office of the Solicitor General had already staked out a position. The deputy’s advice to his new boss: Call the acting general counsel for the agency and advise ON THE FIRST 104 VA N I T Y FA I R that they not take the action. “I hung up the phone with him and admittedly had a little bit of a freak-out moment,” Prelogar recalled during a lecture in Idaho. “Was I really going to call the general counsel of an agency on my first day on the job and urge them not to take a significant federal action because of its possible impact on a pending Supreme Court case?” Yes, indeed, that’s exactly what she did. She took a few deep breaths, read all the relevant materials, wrapped her head around the problem, consulted with her deputy, and then called the agency counsel, who agreed with her solution: delay the action until they could figure out how to implement it without messing up the pending litigation. Crisis averted. The principal deputy solicitor general serves at the pleasure of the president and can fill in as acting solicitor general in the event of a vacancy or if the solicitor general is recused for any reason. That was Prelogar’s role on January 20, 2021, the day she had to put out a small fire between her office and another agency. According to people familiar with this early tenure, she was happy to remain in this acting role until the new administration put forth a name; it never crossed her mind at the time that she’d be the nominee one day. As twists of fate go, Prelogar was not initially the Biden administration’s top choice for the nomination—Leondra Kruger, a California Supreme Court justice who served as assistant and acting principal deputy solicitor general during the Obama years, was said to be a candidate. But she reportedly declined the job—more than once. Two federal appeals judges, Sri Srinivasan and Diane Wood, and Washington litigators Andrew Pincus and David Frederick, were also floated as possible candidates. For nine months, the Biden Justice Department did not have a Senate-confirmed solicitor general, one of the longest stretches in modern history a new administration has gone without one. A White House official told me in an email that Dana Remus, Biden’s first White House counsel, and her deputy, Stuart Delery, were two of Prelogar’s biggest backers for the job besides the president— and that they were focused on getting hundreds of other nominees confirmed at the DOJ and elsewhere. “Our goal was to make sure Prelogar was officially confirmed before the Supreme Court term started—and she was,” the official said. (The term had started weeks earlier.) The position of solicitor general is as old as the Justice Department itself, created after the Civil War to bring order and stability to how the federal government litigates cases, especially those enforcing Black civil rights, throughout the United States. Supreme Court justice Thurgood Marshall often described his job as solicitor general as the best he’d ever had. Heller, Prelogar’s high school friend, echoed Marshall’s sentiment. “My sense is that this is as hard as she’s ever worked, and it’s the best job she’s ever had,” she tells me. Prelogar, in public remarks, has likened her role to that of “a traffic cop, trying to get all the pieces of the federal government moving in the same direction at the same time.” Her office signs off on every appeal where the government loses a case in the lower courts. That prerogative runs from the technical and the mundane to the controversial—like appealing the Florida judge’s dismissal of Jack Smith’s prosecution of Trump over his retention of classified documents. Peter Carr, Smith’s spokesperson, confirmed the solicitor general greenlit that appeal. Prelogar was also present in the courtroom when the Trump immunity case was argued, and Smith’s counselor, Michael Dreeben, told the justices that “the solicitor general of the United States” had been consulted on the work of the special counsel. It also falls to Prelogar to notify Congress when the government won’t be appealing a major adverse ruling—which she did in June when she sent a letter to House Speaker Mike Johnson saying that the department wouldn’t appeal a Trump-appointed judge’s ruling undermining the little-known Minority Business Development Agency. The agency, which dates back to the Nixon years, could continue its mission, Prelogar reasoned, and the ruling was narrow enough that it wasn’t “in the best interests of the United States” to seek further review. As Seth Waxman, one of her predecessors, once said, “On appeal, things can always get worse.” With the current Supreme Court, that’s an understatement. Prelogar and a group of lawyers from her office in Washington boarded a pair of vans at the Justice Department and took a ride to the Supreme Court—a minutes-long drive toward the east end of Capitol Hill. By long-standing tradition, on days the justices are expected to issue decisions, the solicitor general and her team attend the day’s session and get the IN LATE JUNE
best seats in the house—the eight chairs at counsel table, only a few feet from the bench where the nine justices preside. On this particular day this section of the courtroom, reserved for members of the Supreme Court bar, sat almost empty. The Supreme Court doesn’t announce which opinions are due on any given day. And like any other court watcher, Prelogar was expecting any of the still-outstanding decisions of the term—a number of which would once again upend American law and society, disturbing decades’ worth of precedent, governance, and people’s settled expectations. At the top of the list was a landmark where the six conservatives, led by Roberts, ignored her calls to avoid “an unwarranted shock to the legal system” by overruling the foundational Chevron doctrine—which for generations had guided how Congress delegated power to federal agencies to make rules to safeguard workers, our health, the environment, financial institutions, and other areas of American life. And despite her Herculean efforts, she could not convince a majority, again led by Roberts, to sustain a charge against a Capitol rioter federal prosecutors had accused of obstructing the joint session of Congress on January 6. Yet on Prelogar’s mind the morning of June 27, just one day before that pair of stinging losses, one case stood out: a relatively small but consequential dispute that could mean life, death, or near-certain harm to the health of pregnant patients in her home state of Idaho. She had good reason to be thinking about it: A day earlier, the Supreme Court accidentally posted the outcome of the ruling to its website before quickly taking it down. Moyle v. United States, which Prelogar argued in April, is the inevitable fallout of the fall of Roe v. Wade in 2022—one of the many abortion-related controversies that have arrived, and are expected to arrive, before the same Supreme Court that decreed that the issue of when or whether someone may terminate their pregnancy belonged to people and their elected representatives, not federal judges. In the wake of Dobbs, the Justice Department formed a task force charged with protecting reproductive rights in those discrete areas where the federal government still can. Vanita Gupta, who led the task force until she left the department in February, tells me that Prelogar plays a key role in those discussions and is unafraid to speak truth around the table—especially when it comes to litigation and appellate strategy, or when her analysis may differ from colleagues. Yet she added that Prelogar is “so down-to-earth” and otherwise brilliant that her insights, even on finer points of law, are well received. “She has a lot of fanboys and fangirls in the department,” Gupta adds. The attorney general is one of them. “She is one of the most exceptional legal minds in this country, and I think all of us should be grateful to have her representing us,” Garland said during a recent Idaho event with Prelogar by his side. It is through this task force that the Justice Department has been defending the Food and Drug Administration’s approval of the abortion drug mifepristone and efforts to make it more accessible; despite a track record of safety and effectiveness, the drug has been under siege by antiabortion groups. Likewise, shortly after Dobbs the department sued the state of Idaho under the Emergency Medical Treatment and Labor Act, also known as EMTALA, which—the government argued—protects pregnant patients’ access to critical stabilizing care, up to and including an abortion, even in states with strict antiabortion laws. As expected, both issues made their way to the Supreme Court. And in both, the solicitor general’s advocacy made a difference. Jessica Huber, a friend of Prelogar who has known her since their early days in Washington, tells me that on the day she argued the mifepristone case, Prelogar volunteered to pick her kids up from soccer practice. “She’s a full human outside of that world,” says Huber. Another friend had a different take. “Elizabeth makes what she does look pretty easy because she doesn’t melt down. But she is juggling a load that would cause most people to melt down,” Singh, her close friend from law school, tells me. “I think for her to maintain her life and her family and do her job taxes even her superhuman level of stamina sometimes.” Then he adds: “What people ought to know is just how much she shoulders by herself. It’s kind of crazy.” Prelogar’s ability to remain composed under the glare of the likes of Justice Samuel Alito is what has gained her so many admirers. An extended exchange she had with him during the EMTALA argument went viral on X, in part because one could sense her infinite patience wearing thin. In so many words, Alito suggested that the phrase “unborn child” in a different section of the law trumped the need to stabilize the health of pregnant women at risk. That seemed to set her off. And over his attempts to interrupt her, she didn’t let him: “I think the premise of the question would be that the state of Idaho can declare that she cannot get the stabilizing treatment even if she’s about to die. That is their theory of this case and this statute, and it’s wrong.” By happenstance, the EMTALA case touches on a number of strands of Prelogar’s personal life: St. Luke’s, the health system at the center of the case, has had to airlift pregnant patients out of the state as a result of Idaho’s extreme abortion ban. She was born there and spent a good portion of her teenage years at its main hospital as a young volunteer. And her mother’s own experiences with difficult pregnancies, and the life-altering risks inherent to them, underscores how personal standing up for those patients must have felt. “We were very fortunate to have her in her position at this point in time to make those arguments and couldn’t be prouder as an Idahoan to be in that position today,” Peg Dougherty, a deputy general counsel at St. Luke’s Health System, says of Prelogar at a briefing on the day the case was decided. With an election around the corner, no one knows what the future holds for the solicitor general and the Justice Department’s litigating positions in this and many other areas. On this score, the Biden administration and what remains of our constitutional order face an uncertain future. Case in point: On the day Prelogar attended the court session to learn of the ruling in Moyle v. United States—as the EMTALA case is known—Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson warned in open court that the outcome only offered a temporary reprieve. “Today’s decision is not a victory for pregnant patients in Idaho,” Jackson said. “It is delay. While this court dawdles and the country waits, pregnant people experiencing emergency medical conditions remain in a precarious position. This court had a chance to bring clarity and certainty to this tragic situation, and we have squandered it.” Like Prelogar, Wayne Kidwell, the old family friend who hired her father to work in government, has experienced the changing world of law and politics, including as a Justice Department official during the Reagan revolution and a justice on the highest court in Idaho. He thinks we haven’t yet seen all that Prelogar can shoulder: “I hope that I can live long enough that I can see her nominated to the US Supreme Court.”  OCTOBER 2024 105
The Billionaire’s Secret C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 7 9 archive contain no mention of the furniture operation. After the war, Kuehne + Nagel fronted a CIA-backed precursor of West Germany’s foreign intelligence agency, the German newspaper Welt reported in 2015. The German spy agency used some of the transport firm’s offices as cover for key operatives. Alfred Kuehne’s denazification file includes a letter, marked “top secret” and dated February 17, 1948, from British intelligence to the American denazification committee in Bremen. “It is considered vital for operations which are already in hand that Mr. Alfred Kuehne be denazified in such a category so that he is able to retain his business,” wrote a chief of British intelligence, who provided his rank, major-general, in the letter, but not his name. “We would be very grateful to you if you could aid us in this matter since it concerns the security of the British and American zones.” Soon after the letter was sent, the Kuehnes’ businesses and other assets, which had been frozen as part of their denazification proceedings, were returned to them and they were reinstated in their executive positions at Kuehne + Nagel. Alfred became the company’s major shareholder in 1952 after Werner, a lifelong bachelor, moved to South Africa, where he died in the mid-1950s. Klaus-Michael, Alfred’s only child and anointed successor, began working at the firm in 1958, when he was 21, and took the helm eight years later. I V. K U E H N E ’ S B R A Z E N R E Q U E S T KLAUS-MICHAEL HAS BUILT Kuehne + Nagel into a global logistics behemoth in the six decades since, relocating the company seat and headquarters to Switzerland, selling a stake to shore up liquidity and save the firm before buying back the shares to retake control. In 2023 the firm had about $30 billion in revenue, more 106 VA N I T Y FA I R than 80,000 employees, and 1,300 offices across about 100 countries. “I have worked far too much in my life,” the billionaire told Swiss magazine Bilanz. He has also spoken about neglecting his private life, including not having any children with Christine. That they have remained childless is “sad of course,” Kuehne told SonntagsZeitung. “The third generation is the last in the family. As a family entrepreneur, I think it’s a shame that I can’t pass on the business personally.” Perhaps because of that, the octogenarian is busy focusing on his legacy—in particular how he will be remembered in Hamburg, the country’s largest port and main gateway to the world. Through 2023, Kuehne was the main sponsor of Hamburg’s Harbour Front Literature Festival. The main literature prize, endowed with 10,000 euros, even bore his name, the Klaus-Michael Kuehne Prize. That was until 2022, when two nominees for the prize withdrew because of Kuehne’s refusal to deal with his firm and family’s Nazi past, and the prize was renamed. Kuehne’s foundation felt it was “treated extremely unfairly in the matter,” a spokesperson told the German newspaper Taz at the time. It soon stopped sponsoring the festival. It didn’t take place this year because the festival wasn’t able to find a major sponsor to replace the foundation. Author Sven Pfizenmaier was the first of the two nominees to withdraw from the prize. “I’m no fan of billionaires in general and billionaires who profited from Nazism, deny it, and whitewash themselves by funding art seems very bad, so that’s why I did it,” Pfizenmaier says by phone from Berlin. “We believe that being open, honest, and transparent in everything we do will build trust with our stakeholders,” reads the opening sentence on Kuehne + Nagel’s investor relations page. When it comes to the company’s dark history, Kuehne is anything but open and transparent. In April 2015 a regional TV channel in Germany broadcast a short documentary about Kuehne + Nagel’s role in the furniture operation. Shortly before the film aired, Kuehne wrote to the channel director, asking that the outlet reconsider broadcasting the 22-minute documentary, because “old wounds are being reopened.” Kuehne’s brazen request, which was declined, came only months after he had shelved the Handelsblatt Research Institute study sources say he had commissioned for Kuehne + Nagel’s 125th anniversary. In the run-up to the broadcast, the transportation firm published a defensive statement on its website. “Like other companies that already existed before 1945, Kuehne + Nagel was involved in the war economy and had to maintain its existence in dark and difficult times,” wrote the company in the German-only statement. “Kuehne + Nagel is aware of the shameful events during the Third Reich and deeply regrets that it carried out some of its activities on behalf of the Nazi regime. The conditions under the dictatorship at the time and the fact that Kuehne + Nagel survived the turmoil of war with all its strength and secured the company’s existence must be taken into account.” It remains the sole acknowledgment to date by the firm about its Nazi activities. Other than the statement, Kuehne + Nagel’s website doesn’t mention the past, as it doesn’t have a history section. While the firm has stayed silent on its past since 2015, Kuehne has since responded to the criticism that he and his company have not sufficiently addressed the company’s past involvement in Nazi crimes. “I would have understood if people had questioned these things 10 or 20 years after the war. Everything was still fresh in people’s minds then. The people who were responsible at the time were still alive. But to come back to it 70 years later. I find that strange,” Kuehne said in the SonntagsZeitung interview from January 2022. “At some point, one has to let the dust settle on things. That’s my basic attitude. It’s important to learn lessons from what happened back then.” V. T H E T R U T H N E E D S T O BE TOLD Sunday morning in early September 2023, about 300 people gathered on the waterfront in Bremen’s historical city center. The crowd was there for the inauguration of a monument commemorating the systematic looting of European Jews by Nazi Germany through the practice of Aryanization. The memorial’s chosen location was no accident. High above the waterfront, overlooking the monument, towered the German headquarters of Kuehne + Nagel. Down below, Barbara Maass sat near the front row. The granddaughter of Adolf and Käthe Maass had come from Montreal ON A SWELTERING
for the memorial’s inauguration. After Adolf Maass was ousted from Kuehne + Nagel in 1933, the couple sent their three children abroad: their eldest son to England, their daughter to the US, Barbara’s father to Canada. Adolf and Käthe weren’t able to escape Nazi Germany in time. They were murdered in Auschwitz in May 1944. Leo Lewitus, who also lost his firm to the Kuehne brothers, did survive the Holocaust and immigrated to Israel. Barbara Maass disagrees with KlausMichael Kuehne’s notion that it’s time to move on. “I believe perhaps naively that we can learn from the past, but to do so means knowing what actually happened in the past,” Maass said in an interview at her home in Montreal. “Crimes against humanity are always relevant. There are moral decisions to be made today, much as there were in the past. I’m profoundly convinced that the truth needs to be told.” Henning Bleyl, who leads the Böll Foundation, spent eight years persuading the city of Bremen to get the Aryanization monument built. It’s important that Kuehne reckons with his firm and family’s Nazi past before he dies, according to Bleyl. “At this fraught time in Germany, Kuehne, as the country’s richest individual, would set a strong example by coming clean about the past,” said Bleyl in Bremen. “Through his charity, he has built a public position. He can use that for the good and gain inner peace by freeing himself from a sense of obligation to his firm and family.” Thomas Sorg worked at Kuehne + Nagel Germany for 45 years and spent years battling with the billionaire as chairman of the firm’s workers council. Sorg doesn’t believe Kuehne will reckon with his firm’s Nazi past before he dies. “If Klaus-Michael Kuehne doesn’t want to do something, then he doesn’t do it. Period,” said Sorg at a reception in Bremen after the ceremony. “Kuehne will do everything he can to protect the memory of his father, whom he revered beyond all measure.” When Kuehne dies, he’ll leave his holding company, which controls his $44 billion fortune, including the majority of Kuehne + Nagel shares, to his family foundation. The Kuehne foundation will become one of the world’s largest private charities by endowment size, focusing on logistics, medicine, climate, and culture. When he dies, Kuehne knows where he’ll be buried, he told a German magazine. He has reserved a place at Hamburg’s Ohlsdorf cemetery, next to his father.  A House Divided C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 1 0 3 to find the wreckage, Tim located video footage that he said revealed the debris. Claiming that the organization did not act on this evidence, he sued it for fraud and other claims. The suit, which dragged on for two years, was eventually dismissed. A happier outcome seems to be on the horizon in Winchester, Virginia, where in 2016 Tim donated property to develop a park adjacent to the home of Patsy Cline, now a museum. The project is slated for completion this year. family friends I spoke to are puzzled as well as disturbed by how far to the right Tim has lurched. “He’s always been a contrarian—that’s the only thing I can think of that might have gotten him in this direction, [which] does not reflect our values,” says a cousin. “He’s always just been one of those guys who’s gone to the beat of his own drum and operated very quietly,” says a member of the younger generation. Paul, this person said, would be aghast at the Trumpification of the Republican Party and his son’s support for it: “He’d be appalled. I think Paul would be vocally upset at Tim.” “I remember him being a lovely, nice man,” a friend of Bunny’s says about Tim. “I just don’t know how he got involved with such kooky extremism, because he wasn’t brought up in that kind of environment.… I don’t know who he listens to, but he should be smarter. Even for him, this is outrageous. Bunny would be very appalled.” “He was into Rush Limbaugh,” says Warner IV. “My mother told me she was furious about that. She told him, ‘You idiot, why are you listening to that idiot?’ Tim’s like, ‘I like it.’ “I’m the only libertarian and Tim is the only Republican,” Warner IV continues. Tim and Cathy “aren’t particularly close,” he says. “They talk maybe twice a year, but they’re friendly.… She was a hippie type. She still is, at 87. They’re polar opposites.” RELATIVES AND MELLON Warner IV’s comments speak to a time when people on different sides of the aisle engaged—before the right went so far to the right. “It killed my dad at the end of his life. He was just so sad about what happened to the Senate. He had a lot of Democratic friends. He was a middle-ofthe-road, moderate Republican.” “Parts of me are conflicted because he’s been very nice to me, but I’d love to sort of dig through his mind to figure out how he is supporting these people and disrupting the system,” says a younger member of the family. “I honestly think a lot of it has to do with how Trump brought down the barriers of decency. It got to the point where these people are like, if we don’t support him, there’s nobody else we can support at this stage. We can’t support a Democrat. “In his mind, and [with] others like him… they have lived very much independently of the government system. They don’t really need to have a relationship with most Americans. The way I see it, Tim is just not a very social person. He’s not integrated himself with a lot of community.… I guarantee you, he’s not one of those people who likes Trump’s character. He probably thinks he’s an asshole. I think what it comes down to is he wants to be left alone, and he wants no one to tax him. It’s that libertarian viewpoint that’s become radicalized. There are a lot of really rich people out there who just don’t need to think about what’s best for America anymore.… It’s just setting aside the interests of a lot of people for yourself.” “Why is he doing this?” Bunny’s friend exclaims. “People say, ‘Oh, you know— taxes.’ Well, what does he care? He doesn’t have any children. He could never spend all the money he has. It’s just crazy.” (Tim is a stepfather to Pat Freeman’s three children.) In the end, Tim remains inscrutable to many. “He doesn’t communicate with us. Last time I saw him was at Bunny’s funeral,” says Warner IV. Bunny did leave a bequest to her stepson. Just one thing: the porcelain cabbage. “It was her way of saying, Here’s your porcelain cabbage,” says a relative. “Now don’t break it.” Given Tim’s political donations, the younger Mellons I spoke to fear not just for American democracy but for their family legacy. As one of them put it, “We generally come to our politics and philanthropy with a sense of compassion for other people. The MAGA folks and the causes that Tim is supporting are completely lacking in compassion.… That’s not the way [we] want to be remembered.”  OCTOBER 2024 107
Bad Faith C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 9 1 Mike Lewis, founder of Where Peter Is. “To ingratiate himself into that crowd, he needs to move away from New Age and embrace some form of Christianity. That’s where the growth is for him.” Likewise, Lewis continued, after Jordan Peterson’s academic career foundered, he became a conservative self-help guru, and now “the Catholic market seems to be eating this stuff up.” Skeptics acknowledge it’s impossible to divine others’ true motivations, and even cynical conversions could prove transformative. God works in mysterious ways. But what’s driving the Catholic groups eagerly welcoming celebrity converts seems less opaque. “It’s like the vice presidential nominee,” said Lewis. “They’re from this swing state or represent this demographic the candidate doesn’t already have. It speaks to a much larger goal.” And in service of that goal, sincerity, or even actual belief, doesn’t matter much. Peterson has made lectures on Christianity a cornerstone of his career—a book with the same title as his speaking series is due out this fall, and he’s acquired a wardrobe of Bible-themed blazers—even as he’s been notoriously evasive when it comes to affirming the most basic tenets of the faith: Was Jesus resurrected? Does God exist? Peterson’s answers to these questions have ranged from outraged (“It’s none of your damn business”) to poetic (“God is the call to adventure”), legalistic (“It would take me 40 hours to answer the question”) to Clinton-esque (“I’ve never made the claim that what I’m talking about is like what other people are talking about”). As Brand’s and Peterson’s potential conversions became a potent will-they-orwon’t-they-drama—with EWTN cameras documenting Tammy Peterson’s confirmation and abundant coverage of Brand’s unorthodox April baptism in the River Thames—some conservatives’ patience wore thin. The Federalist published a long takedown of Peterson’s approach as 108 VA N I T Y FA I R fundamentally a branding exercise, offering a vision of Christianity “so cut-rate” that it made “cheap grace” look expensive. But in an era of strange culture-war bedfellows, the dabblers were doing their part. Soon after gaining a Catholic audience, Peterson launched into criticism of Pope Francis, suggesting Church membership had declined because modern Catholicism was too much about “guitars,” “hippies,” and “worshiping Gaia”—or Baal. In this context, even celebrities’ failure to convert becomes a form of ammunition, as multiple Catholic-right outlets concluded that the true obstacle to Peterson’s conversion was “Pope Francis himself.” Even without conversion, the phenomenon of Peterson-like appeals to faith—what The Federalist called “post-atheist” but not quite Christian— offered something for conservatives to appreciate. Last fall, UK Christian journalist Justin Brierley released a book and ongoing podcast series, both entitled The Surprising Rebirth of Belief in God, arguing that the mid-2000s “New Atheist” movement was being replaced by both a renaissance of actual belief and a secular religiosity, wherein former atheists find common cause with conservative believers over their shared opposition to “cancel culture” and “where the West is heading in the absence of the Christian story.” It was something akin to the 2021 Pew finding that nonreligious Trump supporters had begun calling themselves evangelicals as a political, rather than religious, identification. A prime example came in April, when Richard Dawkins, one of the “four horsemen” of New Atheism, declared himself a “cultural Christian” because he’d rather see churches around London than mosques. By July, Elon Musk had concurred, telling Peterson that, although not a believer, he, too, “is probably a cultural Christian.” (For his part, Bishop Barron wrote a May op-ed for CNN, declaring that Bill Maher—whom he’d once considered a nemesis for his mockery of religion—was now an ally in the shared fight against “wokeism.”) Influencers themselves made the case for a cultural, if not personal, conversion. Over several weeks last spring, Joe Rogan delighted Christians by saying, “As time rolls on, people are going to understand the need to have some sort of divine structure to things”; Brand said “the return to God” was an obvious response to crumbling institutions; and Peterson recited to Barron a list of prominent former atheists who had come to see that the “humanist enterprise” was unsustainable without being “embedded” in a “metaphysical space.” Or, as Catholic-right podcaster Timothy Gordon put it in an interview with Candace Owens’s husband in May, people online were deciding that “secularism is fake and gay.” Of particular note to Brierley was the fact that many of these new seekers, or strategic allies, have “large platforms” with “huge influence on a younger generation.” He’s not the only one to notice. Peterson’s evolving, if ever-squishy, approach to religion has inspired a cottage industry of clergy tracking his appeal. Five years after Barron first praised the “Jordan Peterson phenomenon,” Word on Fire now has a dedicated page for all its Peterson content. Calvinist pastor and podcaster Paul VanderKlay has made some 750 videos about Peterson after realizing his Bible talks were selling out auditoriums while the churches he knew were empty. Another pastor, Paul Anleitner, noted that while clergy sat through endless “church growth” consultations, Peterson had become a far more effective “gateway drug,” “reversing the flow of traffic” out of the church. That Peterson tended to reduce the gospel to Jungian archetypes was regrettable, they agreed, but certainly not a deal-breaker. In “the strategy of winning back culture,” said Faggioli, “it’s not that important how genuine these voices are.” The point isn’t “having Jordan Peterson be ordained as a priest,” but all the young people— especially young men—he brings along. Church is going to stop the bleeding, it needs to win over not just men, but real men,” declared Zach Costello, another Christian influencer, last spring in his own rumination on the Peterson phenomenon. As it was, Costello continued, Catholicism was too “embarrassing for men to associate themselves with.” Women dominated Bible studies, he said, and the priesthood was “infested with either homosexual men or men who can’t get women.” But the good news was that, as at other points in history, a “generation of men” was being “called to reform the Church when it has drifted off course. That time is now, and Jordan Peterson will play a very important role.” Peterson agreed. In a 2022 video entitled “A Message to the Christian Churches,” he “IF THE CATHOLIC
demanded that Church leaders make great efforts, rent billboards, to welcome young men demoralized by the culture’s “assault” on the “masculine spirit.” “Do it now,” Peterson warned, “before it’s too late.” Concerns about a “feminized” Church aren’t new, said Alyssa MaldonadoEstrada, a religious studies professor at Kalamazoo College who’s written extensively on Catholic masculinity. Such panics have arisen cyclically for centuries, in tandem with social change; in the mid-1800s, they came amid waves of mass migration, urbanization, and a supposed epidemic of male neurasthenia, as men who’d left farms for cities were said to be afflicted with depression, fatigue, and terminal indecisiveness. “There was this idea that unless we get American men back in touch with their bodies, the land, and a different vision of the Church, the nation would be in decline,” said Maldonado-Estrada. “Nothing consolidates masculinity like anxiety that something is being lost.” Today’s fretting over feminized churches overlaps with a culture, particularly for young people, where most identity building happens online, Maldonado-Estrada continued. And as signs accrue that young men are moving rightward—Gen Z support for LGBTQ+ rights dropped by double digits in the last two years, thanks primarily to Zoomer men, a majority of whom now support Trump—some Catholic leaders are following along in weird and dangerous ways. When Barron interviewed LaBeouf about his pending conversion two years ago, they discussed how Christianity wasn’t just about a soft, near-Buddhist Jesus, but an “Old Testament Christ on a horse, cape dipped in blood, [with a] sword.” Butker’s infamous advice to women was paired with a call for men to fight “cultural emasculation.” In June, a Missouri Catholic church ran an ad in its bulletin calling on young men to join a newly formed militia that would combine “combat training” with church service; its recruits would wear white military-style uniforms with gold epaulets and crosses on the shoulders. Also last spring, Matt Fradd, host of one of the most popular Catholic podcasts online, conducted a two-and-a-half-hour interview with 20-something Catholic livestreamer John Doyle about his ardent following among young men, who could be led from Peterson-esque advice—“Stop watching porn, go to the gym, pick up the Bible”— into “intelligent Christian commentary” and eventual conversion. There were a number of things about the interview that might have given Fradd pause: Doyle’s self-description as “an internet bigot”; his fury at women who showed up at his events wearing “little trad wife dresses” and distracting from what should be “a male environment” of young men “changing history”; his hope that Republicans will govern “like it’s The Handmaid’s Tale”; his claim that interracial pornography is a plot to convince white Christian boys they’re “being bred out of existence.” Another thing that might have given Fradd pause is the findable fact that Doyle has complicated but deep connections to Nick Fuentes’s groyper movement. For several years, Doyle—who’s led protests with Fuentes and spoken at his annual conference—has profited from his status as a Fuentes-lite figure, passing in more mainstream right-wing spaces where Fuentes’s racial slurs, Holocaust denial, and calls to burn women alive are a step too far. When the now defunct Catholic-right outlet Church Militant began overtly recruiting followers from the broader groyper community, as Ben Lorber, a Political Research Associates analyst who tracks the white nationalist right, and I reported in 2022, Doyle was among the voices they platformed. At the time, a Catholic media outlet courting Fuentes’s audience was a scandal. Now it just looks ahead of its time. When right-wing youth organization TurningPoint USA held its annual student conference in June—drawing 8,000 attendees to hear Trump and other Republicans speak—Jack Posobiec tossed hats reading “White Boy Summer,” another co-opted groyper slogan, into an eager crowd. Fuentes was blocked from entering the conference and had to lead his followers in chants of “Christ is king” (and “Fuck off Jew”) from the street outside. But inside, the same message reigned. When Candace Owens spoke, the audience gave her a standing ovation, chanting “Christ is king.” In March, Owens denied knowing Fuentes or what his movement meant by that phrase. By June, when she relaunched her podcast—which immediately hit the top 10—Owens was tweeting at him publicly, asking to get in touch. By July, she was speculating on air that various Nazi atrocities were “propaganda” and dedicating multiple episodes to convoluted theories linking “crypto-Jews” to “occult history,” “ritualistic murder,” and the satanic infiltration of all the world’s major religions—interrupting herself to read an ad from Hallow, “the number one prayer app in the world.” Call it a form of audience capture. Or a feedback loop, says Lorber. One wherein “influencers shape the attitudes” of their young male audiences and then are influenced in turn. A race for followers becomes a race to the bottom, as the merely right wing move further right, and the far right goes further still. 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Proust Questionnaire STANLEY TUCCI The actor and author of What I Ate in One Year on face cream, Harry Styles, and why temperance is overrated What is your idea of perfect happiness? A meal alfresco with people I love. Which historical figure do you most identify with? I would never presume to identify myself with any historical figure. Okay, Michelangelo. I could only ever hope to be like that person. What do you dislike most about your appearance? How much time do you have? In short, I would like to be younger, taller, and have my hair back. What is your greatest extravagance? Face cream. I love La Mer. Which living person do you most admire? President Zelenskyy. What is the trait you most deplore in others? Cruelty. I don’t see the point. What is your greatest fear? Losing one of my children, as there is no greater loss. What is your favorite journey? To the River Cafe. I love to walk to that restaurant along the Thames any time of year in any weather. It is London at its best. On what occasion do you lie? To make a child feel secure. Which living person do you most despise? Trump. Need I say more? Which words or phrases do you most overuse? “My instinct tells me….” My wife and my business partner, Lottie, always laugh when I say it. Not sure why. Seems perfectly reasonable. What is your greatest regret? Not being able to save my late wife, and not being the best I can be at all times. What or who is the greatest love of your life? My children. Art. Food. Which talent would you most like to have? To be able to play the piano like Diana Krall and sing like Harry Styles. What is your current state of mind? Occluded and exhausted from working too much. If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be? I’d like to be more patient. If you could change one thing about your family, what would it be? I would make my parents younger. I want us all to have many more years with 110 VA N I T Y FA I R them. What do you consider your greatest achievement? That I’ve taught my children right from wrong, and that my work seems to have made a lot of people happy. If you were to die and come back as a person or thing, what do you think it would be? A jazz musician or a sculptor. Making art is time well spent. Where would you like to live? The Alps, because they never change but are different every day. What is your favorite occupation? I’ve pretended to have many occupations, and hopefully I will pretend to have many more. What are your favorite names? Alba, Rose, Nina, Oliver, Nicolo, Emilia, Isabel, Camilla, Matteo, Felicity, Kate. Who is your favorite hero of fiction? Captain America. What do you most value in your friends? Kindness and humor. Who are your favorite writers? Philip Roth, Dorothy Parker, Jon Fosse, Robert Harris, Claire Keegan, S.J. Perelman. How would you like to die? Quickly, quietly in my sleep after a great meal with friends and family. Who are your heroes in real life? My parents, people who run NGOs, single mothers. What do you consider the most overrated virtue? Temperance. Just enjoy good food and drink in moderation. Life is meant to be tasted.  I L L U S T R AT I O N BY R YA N M C AMIS OCTOBER 2024
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